Where® Thailand October 2015 by Where Thailand

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OCTOBER 2015 THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO GO ®

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Hip Thai Tapas Phuket by Night

LOCAL LUXE

The hottest boutiques from Thai designers

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CONTENTS where

l THAILAND l OCTOBER 2015

The Guide BANGKOK

24 NIGHTLIFE Explore the streets off Sathorn Road and discover some of the city's most buzzing new bars.

25 DINING These chef-driven restaurants have been voted some of the best in Asia.

HOT SHOPS

28 EXHIBITIONS

The hippest places to find Thai crafts, local designer fashion and vintage treasures.

The hottest exhibitions in Bangkok's galleries this month.

DINING

30 HEALTH+WELLNESS

10 CASUAL COOL Just because these restaurants aren't fine dining doesn't mean they're not serving some of the most creative Thai food in town. Best enjoyed with a cocktail or three.

31 ATTRACTIONS There's always plenty to do in the city, whether if it's swimming with sharks, visiting a wax museum or enjoying a VIP cinema experience.

AROUND THAILAND 14 PHUKET AFTER DARK

Pamper yourself at one of the city's most uncompromising luxury spas, or make a pilgrimage to the birthplace of Thai massage.

Laidback beach clubs, craft cocktail bars and late-night lounges; the best drinking spots on the Andaman Coast's upscale party island.

32 NAVIGATE Essential tips on getting around.

EXPLORING 18 CHINATOWN

ALSO INSIDE

Taoist belief meets Thai culture on Yaowarat, the heartland of Bangkok's chinese community.

34 21 THINGS WE LOVE

20 SIAM

20 Managing Director Andrew Hiransomboon

From huge malls selling luxury brands to affordable boutiques run by fashion-forward locals, Siam is Bangkok's shopping central.

Staff Writer Pinnyada Tanitnon

Editor-in-Chief/Product Director Grégoire Glachant

Contributors Vasachol Quadri, Lily Kittisrikangwan, Natcha Saguankiattichai

Managing Editor Oliver Irvine Deputy Editor Carl Dixon

Advertising Director Wanida Akeapichai

Regional Marketing Manager Pavida Chitprasertsuk Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo Art Director Dechart Sangsawang Senior Designer Panita Thiraphapong

Distribution Executive Suda Angsuputiphant

MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS MVP | EXECUTIVE Vice President, Operations Donna Kessler Vice President, Operational Innovation Russ Leseberg Director Of Marketing Lynn Basinger

MVP | NATIONAL SALES Director Of National Sales And Custom Publishing Anthony Karwoski National Sales Managers Jennifer O'loughlin, Julie Humeas, Monica Weeks, Wanda Garcia-Fetherston

National Traffic Coordinator Leleah Robinson

E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@Morris. Com

MVP | CARTOGRAPHY AND CIRCULATION General Manager, Where Maps Christopher Huber

On the cover Poem

MORRIS COMUNICATIONS Chairman & Ceo William S. Morris III President William S. Morris IV

Where Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. 22/F, Silom Center 2 Silom Road, Bangkok 10500 Tel: 02-624-9696 Fax: 02-237-5656 E-mail: where@asia-city.co.th facebook.com/wherethailand

HOT DATES

www.wherethailand.com

MVP | CREATIVE Chief Creative Officer Haines Wilkerson Editorial Director, Visitor Guides Don Hoffman

Design Director Jane Frey Editorial Director, Custom Publishing Linda Chase Creative Coordinator Beverley Mandelblatt

MVP | TECHNOLOGY & MANUFACTURING Director Of Manufacturing Donald Horton E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@Morris.Com

@where_thailand

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HOT DATES

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OCT 31-NOV 1, 8AM

Bright Times

The Color Run arrives in Bangkok this month for two days of running to promote health and happiness. Calling itself the “Happiest 5K on the Planet,” the event involves different colored powder thrown on the “Color Runners” at each kilometer they complete, meaning everyone gets plastered from head to toe in color. Don’t head home right after you cross that finish line: there’s also a Finish Festival party at the end of the run that includes live music, food and even more colored powder. Vachirabenjatas Park (Rot Fai Park). Vibhavadi Rangsit Rd. Tickets B900 at www.thecolorrun.co.th

OCT 2-NOV 15, 7PM

OCT 7-11, 8PM

OCT 12-20

OCT 22, 8PM

Sanam Luang is one of Bangkok’s most famous parks, located in the historic center of the city where royal ceremonies are commonly held. For the Spirit of Sanam Luang solo art exhibition, award-winning photographer Cherwood Sakolaya has captured the daily lives of people around Sanam Laung in a series of dramatic black and white photos. The collection portrays the simplicities of Thailand’s identity from a passed era that still remains evident in Bangkok’s Old Town today.

The Schnit International Short Film Festival returns for its 13th year, celebrating the best international talents of short filmmaking from around the world. This year, Thailand is represented by eight Thai short films. They include Napat Tangsanga’s Gen A, Aroonakorn Pick’s We Used To Love Each Other and Nitaz Sinwattanakul’s Deleted, which will be screened alongside international competitors at the charismatic old Lido Theater. For the complete schedule and ticket information see www.shnit.org.

This month celebrates the Bangkok Vegetarian Festival, or Jay Fest, an annual nine-day celebration held during the ninth month of every Chinese Lunar calendar. The festival opens with a grand ceremony involving the honoring of Guan Yin (the God of Mercy) and the nine Taoist emperor Gods. Gathered around Bangkok’s Chinatown, the festival draws in both a Thai-Chinese and foreign crowd to enjoy Chinese opera performances, temple prayers and, of course, plenty of vegetarian food stalls selling famous “fake meat” dishes.

Classical guitarist David Russell makes his Bangkok debut at the Thailand Cultural Center, to showcase his pieces from all his 16 albums. Russell is widely regarded as one of the best classical guitarists performing today, and in 2005 was awarded with a Grammy for his album Aire Latino.

PARK LIFE

Soy Sauce Factory, 11/1 Charoenkrung Soi 24, 081-301-2669. MRT Hua Lamphong

SHORT CUTS

Lido Multiplex (Lido 1), Rama 1 Rd.. 02-251-1727. BTS Siam

JAY WALKING

CLASSICAL NOTES

Thailand Cultural Centre (Small Hall), Ratchadaphisek Rd., 02-247-0028. Tickets B1,500-3,500, at www.thaiticketmajor.com. MRT Thailand Cultural Centre

Along Yaowarat Road MRT Hua Lamphong

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SHOPPING

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ALEXANDER LAMONT

LUXE CRAFTS ALEXANDER LAMONT Drawing from his experiences living in both Europe and Asia, Alexander Lamont’s beautiful decor items successfully blend European techniques with the subtle mystique of Asian art. The materials, from bronze to stingray skin, are always luxurious and meticulously handcrafted by the local artisans under Alexander Lamont’s employ, ensuring that each piece of furniture is both unique and meaningful. 2/F, Central Embassy, 1031 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-1605772. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Phloen Chit

JIM THOMPSON The original, main store of this pioneering Thai silk brand stocks silk clothes and accessories across its significant three floors. The space is classic and palatial, paneled with teak from wall to wall, and shows off a range of elegant silks, from pillowcases and scarves to chubby neckties. There are plenty of other branches, too, like the Jim Thompson House (a must-visit within walking distance of BTS National Stadium, see page 20) as well as at various malls and five-star hotels around Bangkok.

SHOP TALK

The best places to buy everything from Thai-made gifts to leading local fashion. By Pinnyada Tanitnon

9 Surawong Rd., 02-32-8100. Open daily 9am-9pm. BTS Sala Daeng

OTOP HERITAGE

JIM THOMPSON

WOODEN SUBMARINE

VINTAGE WOODEN SUBMARINE

UNFASHION

The selection of products reflects the owner’s love for vintage Americana. He specializes in menswear from New York, both new pieces and old stock, with a focus on ’20s-’70s military-themed apparel like shirts, jackets, leather bags and boots from brands like Ralph Lauren, WRL, Herman, Jong, Converse and Penney’s. Prices are quite high, but the stock is unique.

Dozens of pairs of leather shoes line the windows of this small red-brick vintage store, compelling passersby to pop in for a look. There’s a clear sense of style to the selection, with most items dating back to the 1970s. It’s not too expensive, generally ranging from B380-5,000, and there’s also a selection of other vintage leather goods, particularly bags and belts.

1/F, Home Place Buildling, Thonglor Soi 13, 081-2552866. Open daily 12-8pm. www.facebook.com/woodensubmarine

Ekamai Mall, Ekkamai Soi 10, 094-421-2411. Open daily noon-9pm. www.facebook.com/unfashionvintage

This store specializes in luxury items produced in Thailand. It features more than a thousand handicraft products selected from different producers around the country, most of them home decorative items and fashion accessories. 4/F, Central Embassy, 1031 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-1605772. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Phloen Chit

UNFASHION

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SHOPPING NEW KIDS ON THE BLOCK Bangkok’s latest luxury shopping malls

The Emquartier This mall is part of a B20 billion restyling of the Phrom Phong area as Em District, a development of premium hotels, offices, residences and entertainment facilities. You’ll find high-end boutiques including flagship stores from MCM, Jimmy Choo, Valentino, Sephora and A Bathing Ape, plus cult Asian brands Stylenanda (Korea) and Beams (Japan). The striking development features a 40-meter-high man-made waterfall as well as green spaces integrated into its architecture. Sukhumvit Rd., 02-269-1000. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Phrom Phong

THREADS LOCAL DESIGNERS

MULTI-LABEL STORES

Siam Square and Siam Center shopping malls are the best places to hunt out contemporary Thai fashion. Brands to check out include Greyhound and its second line Playhound (3/F, Siam Center, Rama 1 Rd.). Greyhound offers chic and minimal work-to-party styles for both men and women in crisp cutting patterns while Playhound features younger, more playful designs. Milin (3/F, Siam Center) is a womenswear brand known for its glamorousbut-revealing pieces with a party sensibility, while Painkiller (3/F, Siam Center) features bold, young and avant-garde pieces for fashionforward guys.

CUSTOM TAILORS Although Bangkok is home to a wide array of custom tailors, finding a truly reputable one can be an overwhelming task. Be wary of anywhere offering a 24-hour turnaround time, be willing to pay a minimum of B13,000 (over USD 400) if you’re expecting a pure-wool suit, and don’t be sold by labels, as a lot of shops will have a running seam promising the finest Italian wool—chances are it’s a polyester-blend made in China. Tailors we know you can trust include Narin Couture (180 Sukhumvit Rd., 02251-9237) and Pinky Tailor (Mahatun Plaza, 888/30 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-253-6328).

Bangkok is filled with both the best underground international labels as well as the work of local young product designers worth watching. Until recently, most of their work was sold online or outside the city center, but a few stores downtown shopping malls put the spotlight on the non-mainstream designer goods. Visit Siwilai (5/F, Central Embassy, 1031 Phloen Chit Rd.) to find one-of-a-kind Thai collaborations with ofthe-moment brands like Kitsune, Globe-Trotter and Orlebar Brown. Nearby, Room Concept Store (4/F, Central Embassy) is a multi-label furniture boutique where you can find a range of locally designed furnishings big and small. Brands worth looking out for include Plural Design and Pana Object for home décor and DeMark Award winning Grey Ray for smaller stationery items. Also check out Another Story (4/F, The Emquartier, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-0036138), which carries a similar concept but also incorporates international designers into their collections.

Central Embassy This luxury mall dedicates eight floors to retail shops from some of the world’s most exciting fashion brands, including Ralph Lauren, Tom Ford, Christian Louboutin and Jil Sander. There is also a host of high-end local restaurants alongside popular eateries from around the world, such as a dessert bar Chickalicious from New York and French patisserie Paul. There is also a VIP cinema on the sixth floor (see page 31).

ANOTHER STORY

1031 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-650-3600. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Phloen Chit

SIWILAI

MILIN

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MARKETS CHATUCHAK MARKET This weekend bazaar can be a daunting shopping experience. Spread over a 70-rai plot of land, the sprawling web of 15,000 stalls is one of the world’s largest markets. You’ll find everything from food, furniture, books, plants, clothes and antiques to puppies and exotic pets. Section 3, just outside the Kamphaeng Phet MRT station, is the most design-forward part of the market, home to both established and up-and-coming Thai artists.

SIAM GYPSY JUNCTION

Next to Chatuchak Park, Kamphaeng Phet Rd. Open Sat-Sun 10am-8pm. BTS Mo Chit

ROD FAI MARKET 2 Tucked behind the Esplanade Complex, you’ll find a vibrant bazaar of street fashion, food and home decor. Though the space is small, the street eats are endless, from spicy salads to on-the-go meat skewers. The home decor section is also a retro goldmine, spanning faux 18th-century grandfather clocks to neon-lit Heineken billboards. Like all flea markets, there are also piles and piles of pre-loved clothes, but here you can expect a better-than-average selection.

ROD FAI MARKET 2

CHATUCHAK MARKET

Ratchadaphisek Rd., Behind Esplanade Shopping Mall. 092-713-5599. Open Thu-Sun 5pm-midnight. MRT Thai Cultural Center

SIAM GYPSY JUNCTION You’ll find an array of secondhand and faux-old items ranging from nostalgic Thai sweets and old-school toys to Harley-Davidson collectibles and lovely time-honored home curios like porcelain kitchenware at this oriental-meets-Wild-West themed market. There are a number of pop-up bars too, most of which have a cross-continental tavern kind of vibe. Don’t forget to check out Bus Bangkok, a modified double-decker van with an expanded rooftop drinking area decked out in a retro-tinged fashion. 95/20 Bangkok-Nontaburi Rd., Open Wed-Sun 6pm1am

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DINING

CASUAL COOL

SOUL FOOD MAHANAKORN

No dress code required. Although Bangkok is home to an incredible array of fine-dining restaurants serving Thai food, there are also some smaller, hip places for those who want a laid-back evening with friends but are still looking for delicious, inventive and flavorful dishes and drinks.

The restaurant dishes out very potent (double pours, actually) original signature cocktails like the Bun Bang Fai (a mix of tequila, lime, chili, almond syrup and egg white) as well as a brief menu of perfectly executed Thai regional dishes like gaeng hang lay (Burmese pork belly curry), and pad krapao made with Australian lamb. This winning combo has seduced those seeking authentic food made with fresh, natural ingredients and served in a comfortable environment. 56/10 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-714-7708. Open daily 5:30pm-midnight. BTS Thong Lo

TEP BAR Located in the crumbling streets of the up-andcoming Charoenkrung area, this restored shophouse has plenty of raw appeal, emphasized with mood lighting and simple wooden tables. Here, you’ll find potent cocktails mixed with Thai fruits, herbs and spices. There’s also a good line of home-infused ya-dong (Thai herbal whiskey), with options ranging from sweet honeycomb to one with a more floral flavor. Hungry? The bar specializes in Thai tapas, though there are also classics like pad Thai available. Come nightfall, you’ll be able to enjoy your meal while Thai musicians take the stage to play traditional music from the Central region.

TEP BAR

69-71 Soi Nana, Mitrjit Rd., 098-467-2944. Open Tue-Thu 5pm-midnight; Fri-Sun 5pm-1am. MRT Hua Lamphong

BAAN

Led by Thitid Tassanakajohn of Le Du (see box, page 10), this restaurant goes for a relaxed, family-gathering vibe in a chic and grown-up setting. The menu focuses on Thai dishes crafted with quality local produce. Try the signature kai palo tom sab (spicy five-spice egg soup), and the dry stir-fried minced dry-aged beef with holy basil, which comes with an interesting aroma of cumin. When it comes to drinking, expect street vendor-inspired cocktails brewed with local spirits such as the Cha Manao (tea-infused Lamoon rum and lime). There’s also a wine list curated by the chef, who’s a certified sommelier. 139/5 Wireless Rd., 02-655-8995. Open Mon, WedSun 11am-2:30pm, 5:30-10:30pm

TEP BAR

SOUL FOOD MAHANAKORN

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SUPANNIGA EATING ROOM

HOT ROD

SUPANNIGA EATING ROOM This is one of the best Thai restaurants in town. Cozy-yet-chic, it serves a menu based on dishes the owner’s grandmother used to cook—Thai food that borrows both from her hometown on the Eastern seaboard, Trat, and where the family now lives, Khon Kaen. Do try the moo cha muang (pork with Guttiferae tree leaves) and pla too tod (deep-fried mackerel), along with the cocktails and mocktails made with intriguing local ingredients. 160/11 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-714-7508. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30-11:30pm

HOT ROD From the same designer behind the Dickensian-themed Iron Fairies (nearby, on Thonglor) and the 1930s Shanghai-inspired Maggie Choo’s (see page 24), this small bar and restaurant dishes out a sophisticated menu of creative or rare Thai dishes and elaborate cocktails. Join the dozen happy few who can fit at its circular bar and nibble on Northernstyle terrine while sipping on a mix of rum and jackfruit. Room A103, G/F, Park Lane, Sukhumvit Soi 63 (Ekkamai), 02-714-22575. Open daily 5pm-midnight. BTS Ekkamai

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DINING

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CLASSICAL THAI FINE-DINING RESTAURANTS

ERR

SOMTUM DER

BENJARONG

Blue Elephant The flagship branch of the globally-known Thai restaurant brand is housed in a stunning colonialstyle mansion with a classic interior of dark rattan furnishings and authentic Asian artifacts. Chef and owner Nooror Somany Steppe and her team serve up royal Thai cuisine with authentic flavor in a space filled with atmosphere.

PASTE

EAT (EAT ALL THAI)

ERR

EAT (EAT ALL THAI)

Set in a two-unit shop-house near the river, the chef couple behind Bo.Lan’s (see box, opposite) newest project is rustic and nostalgic. The dishes here are designed to go well with drinks, such as the chicken satay with brioche and naem (Northern-style garlic and sticky rice cured pork), but there are some serious meal options, too. Drinks are crafted with Thai spirits like the Waan Noi (Maa Jai Dam banana spirit, shade grown coffee and coffee liqueur).

This casual follow-up to Supanniga (see page 9) does some of the best home-style Thai food in Bangkok. The menu includes regional specialities from all over Thailand, like big, plump Ayutthaya river shrimps and a green curry fried rice with salted eggs from Chaiya, in Surat Thani. The atmosphere manages to belie the restaurant’s mall location with homey, roughly hewen wooden furniture and quaint ceramic tableware.

394/55 Maharaj Rd., Open Tue-Sun 11am-midnight

2/F, Groove at CentralWorld, Rama 1 Rd.,, 02-2511230. BTS Siam

SOMTUM DER

PASTE

Yards from the bustle of Silom Road, the restaurant brings typical street food into a modern shop-house setting. The menu focuses on somtam (a spicy Thai papaya salad) and other classic Northeastern dishes. Not as sweet as Bangkokians usually like their somtam, the flavors here are particularly authentic. Do try the pork skewers marinated in coconut milk (moo ping) and the wonderful deep-fried minced pork balls (laab moo tod). Their martinis are also a highlight.

Two of Bangkok’s most highly-regarded modern chefs, Bongkoch Satongun and Jason Bailey, have joined forces with the aristocratic Sanitwong family, descendants of King Rama II, to open this second branch of Paste. Its specialty is recipes from the Sanitwong’s ancient cook books, with a particular emphasis on curries. Try the gang gai gorlae (Southern Thai-Muslim curry with grilled chicken), made using sousvide, coconut-husk-smoked grilled chicken.

5/5 Sala Daeng Rd., 02-632-4499. Open daily 11am10:30pm. MRT Silom

3/F Gaysorn Plaza, 999 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-6561003. Open daily noon-2pm, 6:30pm-midnight. BTS Phloen Chit

233 Sathorn Rd., 02-673-9353. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:30-10:30pm. BTS Surasak

Ruen Urai This century-old house outfitted with beautiful antiques is just as stunning outside as inside. Paying homage to the original owner, who was a herbal medicine practitioner, the menu incorporates strong herbs and spices such as green peppercorn, wild ginger, galangal and turmeric. Rose Hotel, 118 Surawong Rd., 02-266-8268. Open daily noon-11pm

Nahm David Thompson’s Nahm serves fiery, multicourse set menus that offer devoutly authentic flavors and plenty of choice. Try the salad of fresh river prawns with pork and Asian pennywort, and the perfectly balanced coconut and turmeric curry of blue swimmer crab. Metropolitan, 27 Sathorn Rd., 02-625-3388. Open daily 7-10:30 pm; Mon-Fri noon-2pm

Benjarong Devoutly Thai as flavors prepared with European slow-cooking methods and plated with considerate modern touches. The result is highly refined but also satisfyingly authentic. Dusit Thani, 946 Silom Rd., 02-200-9000. Open daily 6-10pm; Mon-Fri 11:30-2:30pm. MRT Silom

Bo.Lan Chef couple Bo and Dylan make all their Thai food from scratch, using only the best ingredients. We recommend the seasonal Bo.Lan balance degustation menu. 24 Sukhumvit Soi 53, 02-260-2961. Open TueSun, 6-11; Thu-Sun noon-2:30pm. BTS Thong Lo

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AROUND THAILAND

PHUKET AFTER DARK

The best places to party after the sun sets. By Pinnyada Tanitnon

ZIMPLEX

QUIP SKY BAR

RESORT LUXE

SWANKY BEACH CLUBS

BABA NEST

CATCH BEACH CLUB

One of the best rooftop bars down south, the 4,000-sq-meter deck sits on top of the entire resort and is hugged by a 360-degree infinity pool so that nothing blocks the panoramic view of Phang Nga Bay. Naturally, Baba Nest has quickly become one of the preferred spots on the island to enjoy a picturesque sunset while lounging on a bean bag and sipping its refreshing signature cocktails. The alfresco toilet is pretty cool too.

The highlight of Phuket’s first fashionable beach club has to be its setting on the beautiful and delightfully quiet Surin Beach. A popular night spot, it has DJs spinning electronic music nightly. During the day, it’s a lot more chill, and a great spot to enjoy a seafood platter, a hearty burger or some light tapas with a chilled white wine.

88 Sakdidej Rd., 076-371-000. Open daily 5pm-9pm

XANA BEACH CLUB WITH ATTICA

KATA ROCKS Wine lovers will easily find themselves at home at the sleek and luxurious poolside bar at Kata Rocks. With 24 different wines available by the glass from their Enomatic wine dispenser, the venue makes for a relaxing spot for drinks with a stunning view of the sunset as it dips into the Andaman sea. Be sure to check the Facebook page (www. facebook.com/katarocksphuket) for any upcoming events, as they are a regular host of wine tastings. 186/22 Koktanode Rd., Kata, 076-370-777. Open 7am-11:30pm

Surin Beach Rd., Cherng Talay, 076-316-567. Open daily 11-2am

This swanky beach club features a 35-meter swim-up bar overlooking a vast stretch of Bangtao Beach. The beach club also regularly hosts some of the island’s most popular events, featuring barbecue buffets, fireshows and an impressive lineup of guest DJs such as Taboo fromthe Grammy-winning group Black Eyed Peas and DJ Paul Harris. Angsana Laguna Phuket, 10 Moo 4, Srisoonthorn Rd., Cherngtalay, 076-324-101. Open Sun-Thu 10am-midnight, Fri-Sat 10am-1am

BELGIAN BEER CAFE

PUBS

8080 CAFE Bare brick walls paired with retro interior furnishing and all things bike-related draw a younger crowd looking for a hip place to hang out, as well as older big-bike enthusiasts. The bike community’s accessory and apparel brand 8080 has also dedicated a section of its store to a sit-down all-day drinking and dining venue, serving classic Thai dishes, coffee, beer and cocktails. 79 Moo 5, Chalermprakiat 8 Rd., Wichit, 080-6921221. Open daily 10:30am-12:30pm

BELGIAN BEER CAFE The excitement of drinking a Singha or Chang in the Land of Smiles wears off pretty fast. So while a Belgian Beer Cafe by a beach may seem like an oddity, we’ll happily take a draft Leffe or raspberry Hoegaarden with that sunset. Once you’re a couple pints in, order the mussels with white wine sauce followed by (here’s an insider tip) the mango and sticky rice fritters from the hotel’s other restaurant, The Flavor. Live bands play nightly. 190 Thaweewong Rd., Patong, 076-370-578. Open daily 11am-11pm

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CRAFTY COCKTAILS

ZIMPLEX Designed to mimic a science laboratory, this bar sees bartenders donning white coats to mix colorful, molecular drinks using lab equipment. Many of the creations are served in shot form, such as the Hanibal (a mix of various schnapps and liqueurs) and the Nebula Jellyfish (a mix of vodka, rum and various liqueurs). But don’t get too crazy—each customer is “only” limited to 20 shots a night. 156/48 Phang Nga Rd., Taladyai, 084-003-6664. Open daily 9pm-1am

QUIP SKY BAR Set on a rooftop of a hip boutique hotel, the large wooden terrace has a laid-back atmosphere, ringed by multiple sailing rope hammocks which hang above pools of water. As well as classic cocktails and an extensive beer list, there’s also a food menu of elaborate Thai dishes with a focus on lobster. 54 Phuket Rd., Taladyai, 076-355-052. Open daily 5pm-midnight

LOCAL TAKES Phuket residents reveal their favorite places to party Fredric Kim Lindholm Owner of Titan Fitness Phuket “Catch Beach Club attracts a slightly older crowd, so it carries a calmer vibe than the other bustling beach clubs. When you go there, be sure to make room for their food—it’s delicious. Try the chicken rotisserie, which pairs nicely with an ice-cold beer.”

Chaninan Kulvanich Assistant Managing Director at Mandarava Resort & Spa “A good place to go for a drink is Kata Rocks. They have a great wine list, there is an upscale and luxe vibe, and their views are stunning. Be sure to go when the sun sets; you probably can’t get a prettier scene anywhere else. “

XANA BEACH CLUB

CATCH BEACH CLUB

BABA NEST

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whereExploring OCTOBER 2015 | BANGKOK

CHINATOWN Chinatown, which stretches across Yaowarat and Pahurat roads, is home to many historical landmarks owned by Chinese immigrant families who fled the civil war before 1930. With them, they brought their ancient healing methods and Taoist culture, as well as the beliefs of Chinese Mahayana Buddhism to Thailand. More recently, the area has also started attracting some cool bars to stop for a drink, too.

NEIGHBORHOOD GUIDES 18 CHINATOWN

20 SIAM

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EXPLORING

CHINATOWN Y CHINATOWN’S TOP

STREET-FOOD STALLS

!8 Guay Tiew Kua Gai This gem, very well-known among locals, is hidden in a tiny alley and run by an old couple who have been serving one of the best guay tiew kua gai (fried noodles with chicken) for decades. Yaowarat Soi 6. Open Wed-Mon, 7pm-1am

!9 Pa Jin Cockle Soi Texas Located in the middle of Soi Texas, this place has been specialzing in soft -boiled cockles and mussels for over 35 years.

!2 TEENS OF THAILAND Hiding behind an ominous, Indian-style door, this dimly-lit bar belongs to a who’s-who of Bangkok’s art and nightlife scene, from fashion photographers and party organizers to mixologists and musicians. The real highlight is the vast collection of gin, from the must-try Dutch dry ginHanami (the house pour) to the locally distilled Iron Balls. The decor is basic, mixing old shop-house charm with racy photography exhibitions.

Soi Phadung Dao, Yaowarat Rd., 081-795-1839. Open daily Mon-Sat 6:30pm-1am, Sun 5pm-1am

76 Charoenkrung Rd., 081-443-3784. Open Tue-Sun 6pm-12:30am. MRT Hua Lamphong

ATTRACTIONS Although many generations have passed since Chinese immigrants first moved to the area, Taoist culture still remains strong in Chinatown, giving this part of town a rich and unique history. Using life-size models and audiovisual displays, the 1 Yaowarat Chinatown Heritage Center (661 Charoenkrung Rd., 02-623-3329, open Tue-Sun 8am5pm) details the history of Chinese migration to Thailand, as well as how the area now known as Chinatown began. 2 Wat Traimit (661 Charoenkrung Rd., 02-225-9775, open Tue-Sun 9am5pm) is not to be missed, home to the

WAT MANGKHON KAMALAWAT

world’s biggest seated Golden Buddha, which also happens to be the largest gold statue in the world. Built in the 14th century, it remains very sacred and is a popular site for locals during religious holidays. Nearby, you’ll find 3 Wat Mongkhon Kamalawat (Mangkorn Rd., 02-222-3975), which combines Buddhist, Taoist and Confucian figures. A lot of devout Buddhist locals tend to practice here, so be sure to respect them as they perform their religious rituals. For a more tourist-friendly experience, head to the colorful old Chinese

Buddhist shrines at 4 Li Thi Miew (494 Plapphlachai Rd., 02-221-6985), where you’ll be welcomed with your camera at the ready—so long as you wear appropriate clothing. The most picturesque shrine in the area has to be 5 Guan Yin Shrine (600 Yaowarat Rd., 02-2372191), where a classically ornate Chinese building houses a 900-year-old statue of the Mahayana Buddhist Goddess of Mercy. Yaowarat is also known as a hub for gold trade. 6 Tang Toh Kang (Soi Vanit 1, 02-224-2422) gold shop dates back to the early 1900s and the reign of King Rama VI. Today, the seven-story late colonial-style building is still owned by its founding family, and in 2002 underwent a major renovation. Although the shop still deals gold on a day-to-day basis, a section has also been converted into a museum for the public. Be sure to call ahead one day in advance as they don’t allow walk-in visitors for security reasons.

@0 Kuay Jub Nai Ek This place is known for its kuay jub, a hot dish composed of rolled noodles with crispy pork belly, blood and intestines served in peppery soup. Yaowarat Rd., corner of Soi 11. Open daily 7pm-late

T&K SEAFOOD

@1 T&K Seafood and

R&L Seafood, Soi Texas

Located opposite each other, these two restaurants are known for their fresh seafood dishes at reasonable prices. Soi Phadung Dao, Yaowarat Rd. Open daily 6pm-1am

WAT TRIAMMIT

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EXPLORING

CHINATOWN EAT

DRINK

Dining in Chinatown is all about old-school shop-house restaurants that have stood in the same spot for 80 years or more. 7 Yim Yim (89 Yaowaphanit Rd., 02-224-2203) is a venerable institution in Yaowarat’s rich dining scene—which is to say it’s some of the best Chinese food you’ll EIAH-SAE get in Bangkok, despite the gloomy decor and small, dark space. The goat Punjabi recipes. Turn on your heels, ham and cured fish are delicious. On a because here they cook in true Indian similar note, don’t be discouraged by grandmother style—plenty of cream the rats and cockroaches in the alleyand ghee. And be sure to stock up on way leading to 8 Jok’s Kitchen (23 Soi traditional Indian sweets on your way Isara Nuphap, 02-221-4075), a small, out. The area’s old-school tea and cofmenu-less establishment known as fee houses are also not to be missed. one of the hottest seats in town. Chef The 87-year-old !0 Eiah-Sae (1-103 Jok presents course after course of Yaowarat Rd., 081-868-9891) serves things like steamed bass in soy sauce coffee laced with condensed milk and fried rice with crabmeat to a alongside charming snacks like custard packed dining room every night. Dining on toast, soft-boiled eggs and toast here is done traditional Chinese-style, with butter, jam or chocolate spread, so come with a big enough party to fill all charged at rock-bottom prices. one of the large round tables. While !1 Double Dogs, (406 Yaowarat Rd., Yaowarat is known for its Chinese food, 086-329-3075) meanwhile, specializthe adjoining Pahurat is home to a sizes in potent, properly brewed teas from able Indian community, and 9 Royal across the region. India (392/1 Chakkaphet Rd., 02-221Ch ng Rd. 6565) is simply one of aro the en bestKru places in town for lip-smacking by good

Until recently, Chinatown was never on the nightlife radar. But a recent wave of new bars have been converting old shop-houses, both in Chinatown and the surrounding area. !3 El Chiringuito (221 Soi Nana, Charoenkrung Rd., 086,-3404791), has a charming retro ambience courtesy of reclaimed wooden furniture, classic sewing tables, old posters and an adorable chalkboard menu. The

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1 Yaowarat Chinatown Heritage Center 2 Wat Triammit 3 Wat Mongkhon Kamalawat 4 Li Thi Miew 5 Guan Yin Shrine Memorial 6 TangBridge Toh Kang Pier 7 Yim Yim Chao 8 Jok’s Kitchen Phray a Rive 9 Royal India r !0 Eiah-Sae !1 Double Dogs !2 Teens of Thailand !3 El Chiringuito !4 Cho Why !5 Bar 23 !6 Tep Bar !7 Grand China Hotel !8 Guy Tiew Kua Gai !9 Pa Jin Cockle Soi Texas @0 Kuay Jub Nai Ek @1 T&K Seafood and R&L Seafood

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owner lived in Spain for six years, and the kitchen rolls out dishes like tortilla de patatas (omelet), patatas bravas L ng (frieduapotatoes) and bocadillos (sandRd. wiches). Wash it down with a Spanish Xoriguer gin. Just round the corner you’ll find the multi-disciplinary art space !4 Cho Why (17 Soi Nana, Charoenk-

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rung Rd.), which holds informal gatherings like photography/art exhibitions, documentary screenings and rooftop paella nights. Note that it only opens when there’s an event happening, so check their Facebook page (www. fb.com/chowhybkk) for updates before heading over. On the same street, !5 Bar 23 (92 Soi Nana, Charoenkrung Rd., 086-264-4471), has a no-frills atmosphere, and a soundtrack that flits between 90s Britpop and reggae, while !6Tep Bar (69-71 Soi Nana) dishes out heritage Thai food, drinks and music to a hip local crowd (see page 10). Or head up to the 25th floor of the !7 Grand China Hotel (215 Yaowarat Rd., 02-2249977), where a revolving restaurant and bar offers 360-degree views of Chinatown and the river.

. MRT (underground train) to Hua Lamphong station and head to Exit 1. Follow the road over a footbridge that crosses the canal and you’ll be at Reaching Chinatown is easy. Simply take the the doorway to the area. See page 32 for a general map of Bangkok. OCT OBER 2015 I W HER E THA ILA N D 19

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EXPLORING

SIAM

Y HOT SPOTS

Siam’s Top 3 Restaurants

!9 Sra Bua By Kiin Kiin The Bangkokian sister of Copenhagen’s molecular gastronomy restaurant Kiin Kiin, which, after David Thompson’s London restaurant Nahm (now in Bangkok), became the second restaurant in the world to receive a Michelin star for cooking Thai food. (See page 9). Lobby/F, Siam Kempinski Hotel, 991/9 Rama 1 Rd., 02-162-9000. Open daily noon-3pm, 6-11pm. BTS Siam

NEW

1 THEO MIO

British chef Theo Randall, who runs his eponymous restaurant at Intercontinental London Park Lane and also stars in BBC Two’s culinary competition The Chef’s Protege, recently opened his first venture outside the UK in Bangkok. It’s located right in the heart of Bangkok’s shopping district, and has a light, casual vibe—as well as an outdoor terrace—that makes it one of the few lunch-friendly fine-dining spots around. Don’t miss the cappelletti di vitello (cappelletti pasta stuffed with slow-cooked veal and topped with porcini mushroom, butter and parsley sauce). G /F InterContinental Bangkok, 973 Phloen Chit Rd. BTS Phloen Chit

iam sees huge malls like Siam Paragon and CentralWorld rub shoulders with trendy little boutiques hidden in a maze of streets populated by fashion-loving uni students. The area is also home to downtown Bangkok’s biggest cultural space, as well as the cheap electronics mecca of MBK. Here’s how to spend an entire day eating, shopping and drinking in this very modern Bangkok neighborhood.

SHOP The actual Siam Square (the area on the opposite side of the Skytrain to Siam Paragon and Siam Center malls) is divided into 11 alleys of miniscule shops rented to independent fashion brands and restaurants. It’s like a training ground for young Thai designers, before the best ones graduate to the fancier malls across the street. Highlights include the original branch of cult-label 2 Issue (Siam Square Soi 3, 02-658-4416), 3 Dancing Riot (Siam Square Soi 2, 02658-4863), minimal womenswear brand 4 WWA (Siam Square Soi 7, 02658-4686) and dapper men’s shoe specialist 5 Mango Mojito (Siam Square Soi 2, 02-658-1435). If Siam Square is Bangkok’s fashion nursery, then 6 Siam Center (Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-1000) is its graduating class, where the very best

SIAM PARAGON

local labels can be found. On the third floor, shop for industry leaders like Greyhound, Kloset, Senada and Soda as well as younger brands including Milin and Something Boudoir—or let the multilabel stores Gin & Milk, The Selected and The Wonder Room pick the best for you. 7 Siam Paragon (991/1 Rama 1 Rd., 02-610-8000) also has a floor for Thai designers, but the real highlight is

its lavish VIP cinema and world class Sea Life aquarium. 8 Gaysorn Plaza (999 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-656-1149) has luxury shops including Louis Vuitton and Prada, while you’ll also find high-end locally made craftsmanship at furniture specialist Alexander Lamont and luxury jewelry brand Matina Amanita. The biggest malll is 9 CentralWorld (Ratchadamri Rd., 02-640-7000) with more restaurants and shops than anywhere town. If you’re in the market for electronic goods, !0 MBK (444 Phayathai Rd., 02-620-9000) is a mecca for cameras phones and headphones (though beware of fakes) as well as watches and fashion of dubious pedigree.

9 Taling Pling This restaurant specializes in fussfree Thai dishes. Favorites include the delicious klua gling moo gradook on (Southern-style stir-fried baby back ribs with herbs), a perfect combination of salty and mildly spicy. 3/F, CentralWorld, Ratchadamri Rd., 02-613-1657. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Chit Lom. Also at 7 Siam Paragon

@0 Thompson Bar & Restaurant Located at the end of a non-descript soi, in the same leafy compound as the Jim Thompson Thai House, Thompson Bar & Restaurant shares the traditional home’s refined atmosphere. The restaurant excels in Western and fusion recipes. Try their larb spagetti (spicy spagetti salad) or stir-fried soft-shell crab with black pepper. 6/1 Soi Kasaemsan 2, 02-612-3601. Open daily 10:30 am-6pm

GAYSORN

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EXPLORING

SIAM

EAT

9 Red Sky Bar (02-100-1234), high up on the roof of Centara Grand at CentralWorld.

02-251-5517), an 80-year-old diner that serves Chinese-style Thai food. For a bit of vernacular, !4 Baan Khun Mae (Siam Square Soi 8, 02-658-4112) is set in a Thai-style wooden house serving traditional Thai dishes. Some of the best Cantonese cusine in town is served at 7 Crystal Jade (G/F, Siam Paragon, 02-610-9363), while Michelin-star dumpling empire 9 Din Tai Fung (7/F, CentralWorld, 02-6461282) is renowned for its xiao long bao (soup-filled steamed dumplings).

From khao-kaeng (street stalls that sell ready-made dishes on top of rice) to rooftop fine dining, Siam has it all. For street eats, head to the little alley behind Novotel Hotel in Siam Square (between soi 5 and 6) or to the second floor of the Lido cinema (Siam Square, 02-251-2861). Siam Square is also home to the original branch of beloved comfort Thai food chain !1 Baanying Cafe & Meal (G/F, Siam Kit Building, 02-664-4510, also at Siam Center). !2 Somtam Nua (Siam Square Soi 5, 02-251-4880) is the area’s most iconic restaurant. Be prepared to wait with a long line of students to try their somtam (papaya salad) and legendary crispy chicken. Another Thai food landmark is !3 Seefah (Siam Square Soi 9,

SIGHTS

!5 Jim Thompson House (Soi Kasem San 2, Rama 1 Rd., 02-216-7368), the former home of CIA agent and savior of Thai silk Jim Thompson, is a beautifully preserved complex of six traditional Thai houses from all over the country, containing his art and antique collection of sculptures, paintings and por-

DRINK

ERAWAN SHRINE

Siam Square is not a nightlife area at all. Most of the shops outside of malls close at 7pm. But there is a buzzing bar scene at Groove, the dedicated dining and nightlife annex at CentralWorld shopping mall. Here you’ll find niche beer bar 9 HOBS (02-613-1322), gastro-bar and cocktail specialist 9 1881 by Water Library (02-613-1774) and 9 Hyde & Seek Peek-a-Boo (02646-1099), the young offshoot of nearby Hyde & Seek (65/1 Athenee Residence, Soi Ruamrudee, 02-1685152)—another popular cocktail spot. Cut through CentralWorld and you’ll be rewarded with incredible views at

BACC

celain. The corner of Phayathai Road is also home to !5 Bangkok Art and Cultural Center (939 Rama 1 Rd., 02-2146630) where you’ll find exhibitions by local artists both new and established. Inside you’ll also find the independent book store Bookmoby and Gallery Drip

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1 Theo Mio 2 Issue 3 Dancing Riot 4 WWA 5 Mango Mojito 6 Siam Center 7 Siam Paragon 8 Gaysorn Plaza 9 CentralWorld/Groove/Centara - Taling Pling - Din Tai Fung - HOBS - 1881 by Water Library - Hyde & Seek Peek-a-Boo - Red Sky !0 MBK !1 Baanying Cafe and Meal (Somkit Branch) !2 Somtam Nua !3 Seefah !4 Baan Khun Mae !5 Jim Thompson House !6 Bangkok Art and Cultural Center !7 Patumwan Temple !8 Erawan Shrine !9 Sra Bua @0 Thompson Bar & Restaurant

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this often-overlooked temple is a real treat, like something from the countryside transplanted to the city. Bangkok’s uniquely Hindu-influenced strain of Buddhism is evidenced at the !8 Erawan Shrine, located right outside Erawan shopping mall. The shrine represents Phra Phrom, Thailand’s representative of the Hindu god of creation. Here you’ll find Thais from across the city coming to pray and make wishes (mostly for lovers)—but you have to hire the dance troupe if you want that wish to come true.

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Cafe—both well worth a visit. The area also has two stunning religious sites. !7 Patumwanaram Temple is hidden between Siam Paragon and CentralWorld on Rama 1 Road. Even for Thais,

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ThewhereGuide OCTOBER 2015 | BANGKOK NEW

THE BAR

Probably the hottest spot in town right now is this century-old refurbished mansion next door to W Bangkok hotel. At The Bar, you’ll find much of the building’s original charm, with plenty of dark wood and leather adding up to something of a gentleman’s club vibe. The drinks are headed by in-demand Italian bartender Michele Montauti, who goes in for herbal flavors in cocktails like The Garden (B420), which mixes chrysanthemum- and thyme-infused gin with chamomile tea, lime juice and rosemary syrup. The House on Sathorn, 106 Sathorn Rd. BTS Chong Nonsi. Open daily noon-midnight.

BANGKOK’S BEST VENUES 23 DINING 26 NIGHTLIFE

28 ART 30 HEALTH + WELLNESS

31 ATTRACTIONS 32 NAVIGATE

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Planning a visit to Singapore? Free digital subscription to Where速 Singapore for insider tips on where to go and what to do handy city maps & transportation guide

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GUIDE

NIGHTLIFE NEW

Q&A

Hidden inside a little alley, this speakeasy style bar comes courtesy of the local cocktail specialists behind many of the best drink menus in town. The long, narrow space replicates a classic railway carriage dining car with a ‘20s New York vibe. Just 10 leatherupholstered seats are lined up along the deeply polished bar, where the barman specializes in personalized drinks. Chat to him about your favorite spirits and he’ll pour something to match, or choose from a list of 10 signature cocktails. 235/13 Sukhumvit Soi 21, 02-664-1445. Open MonSat 7pm-2am

Hot Spots BEST OF SATHORN

BAMBOO BAR

NAMSAAH BOTTLING TRUST

This laidback, late-night cocktail lounge is set in a corner-shop-house and split over three levels including a roof terrace with really great views. The eclectic crowd ranges from older guests who come to nurse a drink while listening to live jazz, to young groups of friends always keen to check out the most buzzed about places in town. The bar specializes in absinthe, but there are some great cocktails, too.

401 Silom Soi 7, 02-636-6622. Open daily 5pm-2am. BTS Chong Nonsi

186/3 Suanphlu Soi 1, 095-585-1398. Open Wed-Sun 7pm-2am; Mon 7pm-2am

BAMBOO BAR

Y SPOTLIGHT

Opened back in 1953, this hotel bar is one of the city’s oldest live jazz institutions. Singers take the mic at 9pm daily, accompanied by music from a baby grand and surrounded by framed portraits of jazz legends who’ve passed through over the years. What’s more, the bar also does some of the best cocktails in town, whether its signature classics like the Mekhong rum-laced Thaijito or elaborate, molecular concoctions like the Raspberry Nitrogen Sorbet. 1/F, Mandarin Oriental, 48 Charoen Krung Soi 40 (Oriental Ave.), 02-659-9000. BTS Saphan Taksin. Open Sun-Thu 5pm-1am; Fri-Sat 5pm-2am

MAGGIE CHOO’S

This elegant bar evokes colonial outposts, the Pax Britannica of Queen Victoria, the decadence of opium or gambling dens, steamy exoticism (and steaming noodles on your way in), James Bond movies and gentlemen’s clubs. You can usually expect some kind of entertainment: a band, a DJ accompanied by a percussionist and beautiful ladies in cheongsam dresses lazing about. The cocktail menu is sweet, fruity and aromatic. Novotel Bangkok Fenix Silom, 320 Silom Rd., 091-7722144. Open Mon-Thu 7:30pm-2am, Fri-Sun 7:30pm2am. BTS Surasak

SMALLS

One of the partners behind this venue, set in a 100-year-old house painted pink, is acclaimed chef Ian Kittichai. His menu is all about twists on Asian comfort food, like pad Thai with duck and foie gras or salmon tartare wonton tacos. Downstairs specializes in cocktails, with a long list of recognizable classics given local twists, while upstairs offers more formal dining in a brightly wallpapered setting.

NAMSAAH BOTTLING TRUST

REVOLUCION COCKTAIL

This colorful Latin-American-themed bar, with other venues in Shanghai, Guangzhou and Xiemen, is the most lively spot in this chic enclave of cocktail bars and restaurants. The specialty is both classic cocktails like mojito (Havana Club 3YO Rum, lime, mint and sugar syrup) and Moscow Mule (Absolut vodka, fresh lime juice, sugar syrup, angostura bitter, ginger beer) and reinvented signatures like the Aged Negroni (gin, Martini Rosso, Campari, fresh strawberry, blueberry, orange, passion fruit and soda). There’s also an interesting selection of tapas dishes.

50 Sathorn Soi 10,. Open daily 6pm-2am. BTS Chong Nonsi

Above Eleven This bar and restaurant doesn’t just have great views of the city going for it; there’s also an adventurous menu of Japanese-Peruvian fusion (aka Nikkei) cuisine. Small plates like acebichado rolls (seabass, ika karage, avocado) and skewers of anticucho beef heart are bettered only by their signature cocktails. Note that if you’re sitting at the bar you’ll have your back to the skyline, so its worth booking a table in advance. 33/F, Fraser Suites Sukhumvit, 38/8 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 083-542-1111. Open daily 6pm-2am. BTS Nana

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GUIDE

DINING NEW

MIKAKU

This is the first branch outside of Japan for the renowned teppanyaki restaurant in Tokyo’s Gion district. Run by the same family for more than 80 years, Mikaku is known for serving some of the most highly regarded Japanese beef in the world. At this branch, the family’s third-generation owner and chef mans the grill himself, selecting only A4-5 graded wagyu from Kobe and handslicing tenderloin and sirloin to the perfect thickness. Don’t miss the melt-in-yourmouth oilyaki teppanyaki. 2/F, Above Maison Eric Kayser, 103/1 Soi Thonglor (between Soi 3-5), 02-712-9080. Open daily 5-11pm; Sat-Sun noon-2pm. BTS Thong Lo

Y SPOTLIGHT

Hot Spots BEST FINE DINING

EAT ME

Ranked 25th in Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2015, chef Tim Butler’s kitchen pulls off bold combinations like Alaskan scallops with avocado, yuzu and pancetta, while a simple chicken salad is elevated to new heights by the addition of red papaya, toasted coconut and betel leaf. The decor is a cool, yet cozy, melange of modernist and natural, with rotating exhibitions by local artists. The service is diligent and sweet, and the cocktails are perfection. 1/6 Soi Phiphat 2, Convent Rd., 02-238-0931. Open daily 3pm-1am. BTS Sala Daeng

ISSAYA SIAMESE CLUB

Issaya is a vibrant and exciting take on traditional Thai cooking. The vibrancy begins with the decor, which is bright and bold, large floral wallpaper and vivid blue walls somehow combining perfectly with the heritage building. The food manages the same high-wire act of being resolutely traditional and thought-provoking in equal measure. Don’t miss the delicious chili glazed baby back ribsfall-off-the-bone tender and decadently sticky and sweet.

EAT ME

Red Sky The 55th floor view from Centara’s rooftop puts this bar in the same league as high flyers like Vertigo at the Banyan Tree. Al fresco dining and drinking takes place under a swooping, red-lit arch in an environment that is somewhat more relaxed than the adjoining Fifty Five restaurant. Chef Hugo Coudurier prepares a menu focused on high-quality French ingredients, best enjoyed with a drop from the hotel’s notably excellent wine cellar. 55/F, Centara Grand at CentralWorld, 999/99 Rama 1 Rd., 02-100-6255. BTS Chit Lom

4 Soi Sri Aksorn, Chuaphloeng Rd., 02-672-9040-1. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-midnight. MRT Khlong Toei.

GAGGAN

After building a solid foundation in Indian and Italian cooking at hotel restaurants, Gaggan Anand did a brief stint at the research facility of El Bulli, the former modern-gastro capital of the world. His eponymous restaurant serving molecular Indian cooking ranked No. 1 in Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2015. Expect the unexpected like foams, spherification, dehydration and more alongside traditional dishes of Indian curry.

68/1 Lang Suan Rd., 02-652-1700. Open daily 6pmmidnight. GAGGAN

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TASTE OF THE CITY

DINING HONG KONG Recent Openings

BROCCOLI REVOLUTION

A veggie-only place meat-eaters can also enjoy. 899 Sukhumvit Soi 49, 02-662-5002. BTS Thonglor

MEAT BAR 31

A new steakhouse with a casual vibe yet serious meat. El Patio, Sukhumvit Soi 31, 095-778-2617

THE SHRIMP LOVER

This mall-restaurant does Louisiana style seafood. G/F, Gateway Ekamai, Sukhumvit Rd., 086-526-8262. BTS Ekkamai

Advertise your business with us 足 starting from B5,000

VANILLA CAFETERIA

The fifth spot from Vanilla group highlights Western comfort food and dessert. 2/F, Emquartier, Sukhumvit Rd., 02-003-6124. BTS Phrom Phong

Email sales@asia-city.co.th or call 026249601

PHOTO CREDIT GOES HERE

Credit card payment accepted.

26 W H E R E T H A I LAND I DECEMBER 2 0 1 1 I www.wheretraveler.com

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GUIDE

DINING FINE-DINING CHEFS’ FAVORITE STREET-FOOD STALLS

L’ATELIER DE JOEL ROBUCHON

Borrowing the same concepts from all L’Atelier branches, this elegant red and black space has diners seated around a large open kitchen, a format more remniscent of a sushi bar than classic dining a la Francaise. The food remains unmistakebly French, though— like free range quail stuffed with foie gras and potato purée and served with all the finesse you’d expect from Joel Robuchon, the chef with the most Michelin stars in the world.

F5/F, Mahanakorn Cube, 96 Narathiwat Ratchanakarin Rd., 02-001-0698. Open daily 11:30am2:30pm, 6:30-10:30pm. BTS Chong Nonsi.

NAHM

David Thompson’s Nahm serves fiery, multi-course set menus that offer devoutly authentic flavors and plenty of choice. We use the word “course” loosely, as this is true, communal Thai-style dining. Try the salad of fresh river prawns with pork and Asian pennywort, and the perfectly balanced coconut and tumeric curry of blue swimmer crab served with kanom jin (traditional Thai rice noodles).

GUAY JUB JAE BERB

Metropolitan, 27 Sathorn Rd., 02-625-3388. Open daily 7-10:30pm; Mon-Fri noon-2pm.

PAD THAI THIP SAMAI

L’ATELIER DE JOEL ROBUCHON

Gaggan Anand of Gaggan The guay jub (rolled rice noodles with pork, kidneys and dark soup) at Guay Jub Je Berb Pochana “Go there before the crowd because the nice kidneys tend to sell out very fast.” Corner of Silom Soi 2. Open Tue-Sun 6pm-late

David Thompson of Nahm The hoy tod (dry-and-crispycooked oysters) at Nai Mong “Ask for yours to be cooked very dry and crispy. Season with pepper.” 545 Plubpla Chai Rd., 089-773-3133. Open Wed-Mon 11am-9:30pm

Olivier Limousin of L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon The kor moo yang nam jim jaew (grilled pork neck with sour and spicy sauce) at Som Tam Krok Yai “Go there in the evening when you don’t have to go back to work—this food paired with beer is perfection.” In front of the fresh market, Silom Soi 20. Open TueSun noon-10pm

Ian Kittichai of Issaya Siamese Club The pad Thai hor khai goong sod (pad Thai with fresh shrimp wrapped with an egg crepe) at Pad Thai Thip Samai. “Pair the pad Thai with the freshly squeezed orange juice sold out front.” 313-315 Mahachai Rd., 02-221-6280. Open Tue-Sun 5pm-2am

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ART

WALLPAPER HANDMADE EXHIBITION 2015 The Thai edition of the international design publication Wallpaper* Magazine hosts a special exhibition featuring the works of 27 artists, designers and companies including top local design houses 56th Studio, Vick’s Weekend and Harnn. Through Sep 30. Naiipa Art Complex, 46 Sukhumvit Rd., 080-887-9985. BTS Phra Khanong

Hot Spots TOP EXHIBITIONS THIS MONTH

PRESENT TENSE

The Chiang Rai-born artist Angkrit Ajchariyasophon portrays a journey of self-reflection in red monochrome at the recently opened contemporary art space.

Through Nov 20. Schemata Gallery, 1/F, Liberty Plaza, Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 088-0888066. Open Mon-Fri 1-7pm. BTS Thong Lo

BLOOD, SWEAT & RUST

Thai artist Sarawut Thaichuai presents a limited collection of his paintings from 35-50 years ago. Works have been selected to represent the erosion of the lives of Thailand’s working class. Through Oct 20. Sathorn 11, Sathorn Soi 11, 085251-6672. BTS Chong Nonsi

Y SPOTLIGHT MORE BEAUTY

MORE BEAUTY

A solo exhibition by Suriwan Sutham, teacher of art education at Bansomdejchaophraya Rajaphat University, who portrays modern women’s obsession with beautification through oil on canvas. Through Nov 8. DOB Hualamphong Gallery, 4/F, DOB Building, 318 Rama 4 Rd., 02-237-5592. Open Tue-Sun 10:30am-7pm, Sun 10:30am-5:30pm. BTS Hua Lamphong

TRACES A PART (ASIDE THE TRACKS)

Thirty-six artworks by French photographer Pascal Quennehen, taken from his travels across continents, which are then sewn onto selected objects that represent reconstructed memories.

Through Oct 28. Golden Tortoise Gallery, 100 Sukhumvit Soi 49, 02-662-5600. Open daily 10am6pm. BTS Phrom Phong

TRACES A PART

TSU-NA-GA-RI

A joint exhibition by female Thai illustrators Rika S. and Intani T., who present two different styles of work inspired by their favorite poets. The title translates to link/bond/connection in Japanese.

Through Nov 1. Ink & Lion Cafe, 1/7 Ekkamai Soi 2, 02-002-6874. Open Mon, Wed-Fri 9am-6pm, FriSun 10am-6pm. BTS Ekkamai

Yenakart Villa

Nestled on Yen Akart Road in Sathorn, this multipurpose by-appointment-only gallery is one of the most striking in town. Inspired by 1930s European architecture, the huge space boasts soaring ceilings, an expansive use of glass and a crisp white facade as well as a beautiful 600-sq-meter garden. It aims to host a new exhibition each month. 69 Soi Prasatsuk, Yenakart Rd., 02-235-9800. Open by appointment only.

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HEALTH + WELLNESS NEW

LET’S RELAX

This day spa chain features minimal Thai decor and a range of classic a-la-carte treatments such as the two-hour Thai massage or the 1.5-hour aromatic hot stone massage. Alternatively, choose one of their packages, like the Bangkok Day Dream, consisting of an aromatherapy oil massage, body scrub or wrap, facial relaxation and either a floral bath or herbal steam (3.5 hrs). Let’s Relax (Ekkamai), 2/F, Park Lane Ekkamai, Sukhumvit Soi 63 (Ekkamai), 02-382-1133. www. letsrelaxspa.com

Hot Spots LUXURY SPAS

DEVARANA SPA BANGKOK

This spa taps into the traditions and imagery depicting mythical sanctuaries in ancient Thai culture. It’s truly one of the best in Bangkok for an over-the-top spa session that goes well beyond a massage. The Heavenly Nantha Garden Experience (2.5 hours) combines fresh pink lotus and champaca petals with an oil blending ylang ylang and jasmine. It includes a bath, scrub and a massage that combines Thai, ayurveda and shiatsu techniques.

THE ORIENTAL SPA

As sophisticated as the hotel, The Oriental Spa offers four specialty suites, ten private rooms and a huge variety of treatments, covering everything from Thai to Hawaiian therapies. Try the Oriental Signature Treatment, aromatherapy signature massage, for 1.5 hr or a full detoxifying option The Oriental Organic Journey for 2.5 hrs. Mandarin Oriental Bangkok, 48 Oriental Ave., 02659-9000. Open daily 9am-10pm. BTS Saphan Taksin

Dusit Thani Bangkok, 946 Rama 4 Rd., 02-636-3596. Open daily 9am-10pm. MRT Silom AWAY SPA AT W BANGKOK

Y SPOTLIGHT

AWAY SPA AT W BANGKOK

W Bangkok’s fondness for LED lights usually gives its restaurants and rooms a nightclub vibe. The effect at Away Spa is surprisingly relaxing. Beds glow softly in your choice of green, red, purple or pink, while the dim, labyrinthine halls induce an almost meditative mood. Other facilities include a sauna, steam room, Turkish bath, Jacuzzi and VIP suite, as well as The Style Lab, which offers grooming, manicure and pedicure services.

SEVARANA SPA BANGKOK

I.SAWAN RESIDENTIAL SPA & CLUB

Designed by Tony Chi, this club-style spa is one of the most beautiful in Bangkok. The setting feels more like a jungle resort than a city spa. Its 7,000 sqmeter space features six residential spa cottages, nine treatment bungalows, a hair salon and a nail bar—not to mention a modern fitness center, squash and tennis courts plus a 25-meter pool. 5/F, Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok, 494 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-254-1234. Open daily 6am-11pm. BTS Chit Lom

6/F, W Bangkok, 106 Sathorn Rd., 02-344-4160. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Chong Nonsi

OKURA SPA

Tucked away on the 25th floor of the luxury Japanese hotel, this contemporary oriental space features five private treatment rooms hidden along a dimly-lit walkway. The highlight is the Okura Take Relief bamboo massage, during which therapists roll a warm bamboo pole over your muscles to release stress before a soak in a big bathtub. 25/F, The Okura Prestige, 57 Wireless Rd., 02-6879000. Open daily 10am-10pm

Wat Pho

Located next to the Grand Palace , this is one of the oldest temples in Bangkok, home to the 43-meter-long reclining Buddha and credited as the birthplace of Thai massage. The temple massage school still runs today, meaning visitors can get one of the most authentic massages anywhere in the city. They also run short courses for anyone who’d like to learn for themselves. Sanam Chai Rd., 02-255-4771. Open daily 8am-6pm

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ATTRACTIONS

SEA LIFE Tucked in the basement of Siam Paragon, Southeast Asia’s biggest aquarium is home to over 30,000 marine creatures and 400 aquatic species. The aquarium also offers family-friendly interactive activities such as diving with the sharks, 5D cinema experiences, creature feeding, back-of-house visits and even real ocean walks in wetsuits. Be sure to check activity times prior to your visit. We also recommend making advanced reservations, as there are limited spots for each activity per day. B1-B2/F, Siam Paragon, 991/1 Rama 1 Rd., 02-6872000. Open daily 10am-8pm. BTS Siam

Hot Spots

CULTURAL SHOWS & PERFORMANCES EMBASSY CINEPLEX RAJADAMNERN BOXING Equipped with state-of-the-art screens and STADIUM sound systems, jumbo-sized seats and pri-

vate mini fridges, this cinema offers one of the most extravagant movie-watching expereinces in the world. The cinema contains a total of five theaters with seats that range from cocoon-style first-class plane pods to daybeds and giant sofas. Be sure to check the official website for tickets and showtimes.

6/F, Central Embassy, 1031 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-1605999. BTS Phloen Chit

ASIATIQUE THE RIVERFRONT

This shopping center was the first to sit on the banks of the Chao Phraya River and is themed according to the city’s architecture of old. Divided into several sections, ranging from the panoramic waterfront to a 100-year-old refurbished sawmill, it includes over 1,500 boutiques covering quirky fashions and intriguing souvenirs, plus offers a variety of eateries, beer gardens and wine bars. The gigantic venue is also home to a ferris wheel and stage shows like Muay Thai Live: The Legend Lives.

free ferry from Sathorn Pier, 2194 Charoen Krung Rd., 02-108-4488. Open daily 4pm-midnight. www.asiatiquethailand.com

Thailand’s most famous Muay Thai stadium, dating back to 1941, is the definitive place to witness genuine, championship Thai boxing bouts. The beautiful art deco building holds matches for both amateurs and professionals three days a week, and is as popular with Thais as tourists. Foreigners are seated ringside, while the outer seats are occupied by hard-gambling locals—as much of a spectacle as the fighting.

Rajadamnern Boxing Stadium, 1 Rajadamnern Avenue Pom Prap Sattru Pai. 02-281-4205. www.facebook. com/rajadamnern

Flight of the Gibbon

RAJADAMNERN BOXING STADIUM

MADAME TUSSAUDS

The famous wax-work museum features a star-studded lineup of incredibly life-like movie stars, politicians and sports figures drawn from all over the world. As well as the biggest stars from Hollywood like Tom Cruise, Brad Pitt and Nicole Kidman, you’ll find a scattering of local legends, too. The Bangkok branch also features local and regional public figures such as forensic pathologist Dr. Pornthip Rojanasunan, actor Tony Jaa and TV personality Anne Thongprasom.

ASIATIQUE THE RIVERFRONT

Y SPOTLIGHT

6/F, Siam Discovery 989, Rama 1 Rd., 02-658-0060. Open daily 10am-8:30pm. BTS Siam

This zip-line tour operator has locations in Chiang Mai and Pattaya that give nature-loving risk takers amazing views of Thailand’s forests and an adrenaline rush at the same time. The Zipline Canopy Tour in Pattaya’s Chonburi jungle features three kilometers of wires suspended above the forest canopy, the longest of which is over 300 meters. For tourists staying in Bangkok, the company also offers day packages including nine-person shuttle bus to and from the city. Ten percent of profits also go towards primate rehabilitation, reforestation projects and ecological education programs. 29/4 Chang Kachasarn Rd., Chang Klan, 053-010660. www.treetopasia.com

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GUIDE

NAVIGATE

Lat Phrao ÅÒ´¾ÃŒÒÇ

Phahon Yothin ¾ËÅâÂ¸Ô¹

Chatuchak Park ÊÇ¹¨µØ¨Ñ¡Ã

Chao Phraya River áÁ‹¹้Óà¨ŒÒ¾ÃÐÂÒ

Kamphaeng Phet ¡Óá¾§à¾ªÃ

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Mo Chit ËÁÍªÔµ

Sutthisan ÊØ·¸ÔÊÒÃ

Saphan Khwai ÊÐ¾Ò¹¤ÇÒÂ

Huai Khwang ËÑÇÂ¢ÇÒ§

Ari ÍÒÃÕÂ

Thailand Cultural Centre ÈÙ¹Â ÇÑ²¹¸ÃÃÁáË‹§»ÃÐà·Èä·Â

Sanam Pao Ê¹ÒÁà»‡Ò

Ratchawithi Rd. ¶¹¹ÃÒªÇÔ¶Õ

Phra Athit ·‹ÒàÃ×Í¾ÃÐÍÒ·ÔµÂ

Victory Monument Í¹ØàÊÒÇÃÕÂ

To Suvarnabhumi Airport

Phaya Thai ¾ÞÒä·

7 Tha Chang ·‹ÒàÃ×Í·‹ÒªŒÒ§

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Sukhumvit ÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ·

!8 Chit Lom ªÔ´ÅÁ

Siam ÊÂÒÁ

Ratchadamri ÃÒª´ÓÃÔ

Phloen Chit à¾ÅÔ¹¨Ôµ

Nana ¹Ò¹Ò

Asok ÍâÈ¡

Phetchaburi à¾ªÃºØÃÕ

Ramkhamhaeng ÃÒÁ¤ÓáË§

Phetchaburi Rd. ¶¹¹à¾ªÃºØÃÕ

Ratchathewi ÃÒªà·ÇÕ

National Stadium Ê¹ÒÁ¡ÕÌÒ áË‹§ªÒµÔ

Makkasan ÁÑ¡¡ÐÊÑ¹

Ratchaprarop ÃÒª»ÃÒÃ¶

Phaya Thai ¾ÞÒä·

Ratchadamnoen Klang Rd. ¶¹¹ÃÒª´Óà¹Ô¹¡ÅÒ§

6 Wang Lang ·‹ÒàÃ×Í ÇÑ§ËÅÑ§

Phra Ram 9 ¾ÃÐÃÒÁ 9

Phrom Phong ¾ÃŒÍÁ¾§É

Thong Lo ·Í§ËÅ‹Í Ekkamai àÍ¡ÁÑÂ

Queen Sirikit National Conv. Centre ÈÙ¹Â »ÃÐªØÁ áË‹§ªÒµÔÊÔÃÔ¡ÔµÔ์

Phra Khanong ¾ÃÐâ¢¹§

Yaowarat Rd.

Tha Tien ·‹ÒàÃ×Í·‹ÒàµÕÂ¹

Ratcha wong ·‹ÒàÃ×Í ÃÒªÇ§¤

Sam Yan ÊÒÁÂ‹Ò¹

Hua Lamphong ËÑÇÅÓâ¾§

Si Phraya ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÊÕ¾ÃÐÂÒ

Lumphini ÅØÁ¾Ô¹Õ

Silom ÊÕÅÁ

Bang Chak ºÒ§¨Ò¡

Khlong Toei ¤ÅÍ§àµÂ

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Sala Daeng ÈÒÅÒá´§

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To Bang Wa Station

Surasak ÊØÃÈÑ¡´Ô์

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1 Asiatique the Riverfont

!0 Victory Monument

Main road

2 Chatuchak Market

!1 Yaowarat (Chinatown)

BTS (Sukhumvit Line)

3 Vimanmek Mansion

!2 Central Rail Station (Hua Lamphong)

BTS (Silom Line)

4 Anantasamakhom Throne Hall

!3 Lumphini Park

MRT

5 Khao San Road

!4 Queen Sirikit National Convention Centre

Airport Rail Link (ARL)

6 National Museum

!5 Siam Paragon

River/Klong (canal)

7 Grand Palace / Temple of The Emerald Buddha

!6 CentralWorld and Zen

8 Wat Pho

!7 Bangkok Art and Culture Centre

9 Wat Arun

!8 Central Chidlom, Central Embassy

Pier

On Nut Í‹Í¹¹Øª

FIND OUT THE LATEST NEWS ON THAILAND AT WWW.WHERETHAILAND.COM AND FACEBOOK.COM/WHERETHAILAND

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GUIDE

NAVIGATE

Essential Tips TRANSPORTATION & MONEY AIRPORT LINK

TUK-TUKS

BANKING HOURS

The Airport Rail Link (ARL) is one of the fastest and cheapest ways to get to and from Suvarnabhumi Airport, especially for those traveling light. There are two types of train: Express Line and City Line. The ARL Express Line runs from Suvarnabhumi Airport to either Phaya Thai (connecting to the BTS) or Makkasan stations (10-minute walk to MRT Petchaburi), and takes 20 minutes. The City Line stops at six stations and takes around 40 minutes. Thai Airways passengers boarding the Express Line can check in their bags at Makkasan station. One-way fares are B90 for City Line and B150 for the Express Line. More information at www.srtet.co.th/en

Tuk-tuks are a noisy but fun way of getting around Bangkok, not to mention great photo opportunities. However, they are no guarantee of beating the infamous traffic and you should agree on a price before getting in. Haggle hard but be wary of any cheap offers if you don’t want an unexpected trip to a tailor or gem store.

Banking hours are generally from 8:30am-3:30pm, Monday through Friday except on public holidays and bank holidays. Banks in malls open daily, 10am-8pm.

TAXIS In Bangkok metered taxis are readily available and very affordable, with fares starting from B35 for the first two kilometers. Despite their many colors, there’s no difference in prices and service. Some drivers speak limited English, so do get your destination written down in Thai to avoid any miscommunication. Taxis sometimes try to negotiate a price. Make sure to only pay the metered price. There are now also a number of mobile phone applications and services for those who want to hail a cab without having to hit the streets. The two main apps are Grab Taxi (grabtaxi.com/bangkok-thailand) and Uber (www.uber.com/cities/bangkok).

ATMs are very common in Bangkok and can be found in most areas of Thailand, often located outside 7-Eleven stores. You should easily be able to use overseas cards to withdraw money.

VAT REFUNDS Visitors to Thailand who make purchases of goods valued B5,000 or over from stores displaying the “VAT REFUND FOR TOURISTS” sign are eligible to receive a refund of the VAT paid on the item. At the time you purchase the item present your passport and ask the sales assistant at the store to complete the VAT Refund Application for Tourists form, attaching the original tax invoices to the form. Then at the airport, and before you check-in, present your goods and the refund form to customs officers. After checkin and immigration, proceed to the VAT Refund Office in the departure lounge. Refund amounts under B30,000 will be made in cash (Thai Baht) or by bank draft or credited to your credit card account. Refunds over B30,000 will be made by bank draft or credited to your credit card account.

SKYTRAIN/UNDERGROUND The BTS skytrain stops at Bangkok’s main districts and gives you a bird’s eye view of the city. There are two main lines: the Silom line, which runs from across the river in Bang Wa to National Stadium next to MBK Shopping Centre; and the Sukhumvit line, which runs from Soi Bearing in the eastern part of the city along Sukhumvit before heading up north to Mo Chit station by the Chatuchak Market. Siam is the interchange station between the two lines. Fares are B15-52. Unlimited day passes are B130. The underground, or MRT, is one line but has an extensive reach, from Hua Lamphong train station on the outskirts of Chinatown, down through the main Central Business District before turning North and heading up Ratchadapisek Road past Chatuchak Market and ending at Bang Sue station. Fares are B16-B40. There are three interchange stations: (1) BTS Asoke—MRT Sukhumvit, (2) BTS Sala Daeng— MRT Silom and (3) BTS Mo Chit—MRT Chatuchak. Tickets can be bought for individual journeys, or you can get special one-day tourist passes or tickets that cover a specified number of trips. For more information, go to www.bts.co.th and www. bangkokmetro.co.th. Note that the BTS and MRT use different ticketing systems.

ATMS

TUK-TUKS

CANAL BOATS While Bangkok used to be the Venice of the East, there is now only really one canal (Klong) still used as a means of getting around, Klong Saen Saep has a ferry service that runs daily from Bang Kapi in the Eastern suburbs to Phu Khao Thong or the Golden Mount in the heart of the Old Town (Rattanakosin Island), stopping off at various piers along the way. Be warned though, the boats don’t wait long at the piers, making getting on and off rather nerve-wracking (and physically challenging). And, due to the unsavory nature of the canal water, any picturesque view is blocked by sheets of tarpaulin to prevent splashing. Fares are B9-B120

EXPRESS RIVER BOATS These fast and frequent ferries along the Chao Phraya River are a great way to get a different perspective on the city, as well as a good option for getting to many of the temples and palaces built along the river. The main Sathorn (Central) pier is located by BTS Saphan Taksin with boats heading upstream from here and stopping off at numerous piers all the way to Nonthaburi. Fares range from B15-B42 depending on distance. You can also opt for a tourist ticket (B150), which allows one-day unlimited travel and comes with a guide booklet to some of the leading tourist attractions accessible from the river. From Sathorn (Central) Pier, you can also catch free ferries to many riverside hotels and Asiatique.

ESSENTIAL NUMBERS 1 EMERGENCY SERVICES (FIRE BRIGADE, POLICE) 191 2 AIRPORT RAIL LINK 02-308-5600. airportraillink.railway.co.th 3 BANGKOK MASS TRANSIT SYSTEM (BTS) 02-617 6000 (daily 6am-midnight). www.bts.co.th 4 BTS TOURIST INFORMATION CENTER 02-617-7340-1 (daily: 8am-8pm). www.bts.co.th 5 BANGKOK METRO (MRT) 02-624-5200 (daily 6am-midnight). www.bangkokmetro.co.th 6 CHAO PHRAYA EXPRESS BOAT CALL CENTER 02-623-6001-3 (6am-7pm). www.chaophrayaexpressboat.com 7 SUVARNABHUMI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT 02-132-1888. www.suvarnabhumiairport.com 8 TOURISM AUTHORITY OF THAILAND (TAT) 1672 from Thai numbers. www.tourismthailand.org 9 TOURIST POLICE 24-HOUR CALL CENTER 1155 from Thai numbers or 02-250-5500 OCT OBER 2015 I W HER E THA ILA N D 33

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21 THINGS WE LOVE about Bangkok

!5 1 Descending the steps to Maggie Choo’s, the sultry Silom nightspot styled on Shanghai opium dens. See page 24. 2 Chowing down on the legendary kuy tiew kua khai (fried noodles with chicken) on the streets of Chinatown after dark. See page 18.

3 Getting a tension-relieving Thai massage at the spiritual home of the art, Wat Pho, also home to the 46-meter-long reclining Buddha. See page 30.

4 Trying on locally-designed, cutting edge clothes at Siam Center. See page 8.

5 Taking in the city view with a cocktail in hand with the young crowd at Above Eleven, a rooftop bar located in one of Bangkok’s nightlife hubs. See page 24.

!6 worked with Copenhagen’s oneMichelin-star Kiin Kiin. See page 12.

!2 Winding down with a personal-

!7 Stocking up on Thai handicraft souvenirs from across the country at OTOP Heritage. See page 6.

7 Grabbing a beer and shopping for

ized cocktail at The Bar, located inside a beautifully restored colonial house. See page 24.

vintage bargains at the Rod Fai Night Market. See page 9.

!3 Admiring the works of 27 well-

8 Leaning back on one of the spacious lounge chairs with a blanket and warm bowl of popcorn at the luxurious Embassy Cineplex, one of Bangkok’s best VIP cinemas. See page 31

9 Immersing ourselves in Taoist culture at the Yaowarat Chinatown Heritage Center, a museum detailing Chinese migration to Thailand. See page 18.

!0 Tucking into one of Chef Tim Butler’s bold creations at Eat Me, a globally lauded restaurant in the Sathorn area. See page 25.

!8 Cooling off with a Thai-style cofknown artists, designers and companies at the latest exhibition held at the brand new Naiipa Art Complex, located in one of Bangkok’s most artistic neighborhoods. See page 28.

!4 Enjoying a hearty meal at Supanniga Eating Room, a restaurant specializing in traditional Northeastern Thai dishes. See page 11.

!5 Browsing for fun gadgets and stylish stationery at Another Story, a multi-label concept store inside the brand new Emquartier mall. See page 6.

!6 Refueling with an earthy cup of hand-brewed coffee while admiring

!1 Spending an evening at Asiatique, the works of Japanese artists at Ink 6 Sampling the modern yet authentically flavored Thai food of Benjarong, whose Danish head chef

the giant riverside development that’s home to shops, restaurants, bars and cultural performances. See page 31.

& Lion Cafe, a coffee shop and art space with an industrial vibe. See page 28.

fee laced with condensed milk at the 87-year-old Eiah-Sae, after a day in Chinatown. See page 19.

!9 Treating ourselves to a refreshing aroma massage at Away Spa, a modern spa dimly lit with glowing matte LED lights. See page 30.

@0 Sipping on a potent cocktail at Soul Food Mahanakorn while waiting for a hearty bowl of khaosoi (crispy noodles in coconut soup), one of our favorite eateries serving authentic regional Thai food. See page 12.

@1 Checking out the latest exhibition at Soy Sauce Factory, an art space set in an actual old Chinatown soy sauce factory that welcomes the region’s best photographers. See page 4.

where in the world Where is an international network of magazines first published in 1936 and distributed in 4,000 leading hotels in more than 50 places around the world. Look for us when you visit any of the following cities, or plan ahead for your next trip by visiting us online at wheretraveler.com ASIA Thailand, Singapore, Hong Kong

UNITED STATES Alaska & Yukon, Atlanta, Baltimore, Boston, Charleston, Charlotte, Chicago, Dallas, Georgia, Indianapolis, Las Vegas, Los Angeles, Maui, Minneapolis/St. Paul, New Orleans, New York, Northern Virginia, Oahu, Orange County (CA), Orlando, Philadelphia, Phoenix/Scottsdale, San Diego, San Francisco, Seattle, South Florida, St. Louis, Washington D.C.

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Where to find Hotels in Bangkok The AETAS Bangkok All Seasons Bangkok Siam Aloft Bangkok Sukhumvit 11 Amari Watergate Anantara Bangkok Riverside Resort & Spa Arnoma Baan Noppawong Bally’s Studio Suites Banyan Tree Bangkok Best Western Sukhumvit Cabochon Hotel & Residence Centara Grand at Central Plaza Ladprao Centara Grand at Central World Centara Hotels & Resorts Chatrium Hotel Riverside Bangkok Conrad Bangkok Crowne Plaza Bangkok Lumpini Park Dusit Thani Bangkok Emporium Suites Eastin Grand Hotel Sathorn Four Points by Sheraton Four Seasons Bangkok GLOW Pratunam Grand Hyatt Erawan Grand Mercure Park Avenue Grand Millennium Sukhumvit Holiday Inn Silom Holiday Inn Bangkok Sukhumvit 22 Hotel Muse Imperial Queens Park InterContinental Bangkok JW Marriott Bangkok The Landmark Bangkok Le Fenix Sukhumvit LIT Bangkok Luxx Majestic Grande Mandarin Oriental Bangkok Marriott Sukhumvit 57 Mercure & Ibis Bangkok Siam

WHERE DISTRIBUTION LIST_Oct_2015.indd 35

The Metropolitan Bangkok Millennium Hilton Miracle Grand Convention Montien Riverside Novotel Bangkok Ploenchit Sukhumvit Novotel Bangkok Siam Square Novotel Bangkok Impact Oaks Bangkok Sathorn The Okura Prestige Bangkok Park Plaza Sukhumvit Pathumwan Princess The Peninsula Bangkok Phachara Suites Plaza Athénée Bangkok Pullman Bangkok King Power Radisson Blu Plaza Radisson Suites Bangkok Ramada Encore Bangkok Ramada Plaza Menam Riverside Renaissance Bangkok Ratchaprasong Riva Surya Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel & Towers Siam Kempinski Shangri-La Bangkok Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit The Berkeley Hotel The Continent Hotel Bangkok The Davis Bangkok The Eugenia Hotel & Spa The Siam Siam @ Siam Design Hotel & Spa Sivatel Bangkok Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit Sofitel So Bangkok The St. Regis Bangkok The Sukhothai Bangkok Swissotel Le Concorde Swissotel Nai Lert Park VIE Hotel Bangkok ViVa Garden

where Thailand

Hotels in Other Provinces

Shopping Malls

Anantara Rasananda Koh Phangan Villa

CentralWorld

Resort & Spa

The Emporium Department Complex

Chandara Resort

Peninsula Plaza

Conrad Koh Samui

The River City Shopping Complex

Dara Samui Beach Resort & Spa Villa Dusit D2 Baraquda Pattaya

Others

InterContinental Samui Baan Taling Ngam

Uber Black limousines

JW Marriott Khao Lak Resort & Spa

TAT Tourist Information Counter at

JW Marriott Phuket Resort & Spa

Suvarnabhumi Airport (arrivals)

Le Méridien Koh Samui Resort & Spa

Chao Phraya Express Boats

Renaissance Koh Samui Resort & Spa

Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BACC)

Renaissance Phuket Resort & Spa

Blue Elephant Restaurant

Santiburi Resort

Devarana Spa

Sheraton Krabi

Dean & Deluca

Shangri-La Chiang Mai

Elemis Spa at The St. Regis Bangkok

Sheraton HuaHin Resort & Spa

The Kiwi Bangkok Sports Pub & Grill

Tamarind Village Chiang Mai

The Australian Pub & BBQ

Serviced Apartments

Yunomori Onsen & Spa

Adelphi Service Apartments

La Grande Perle

Adelphi Suites Bangkok

Kuppadeli

Ascott Sathorn Bangkok

Kalpapruek

Asoke Residence Sukhumvit

Jim Thompson Restaurant

Cape House Serviced Apartments

Viva & Aviv

Courtyard Marriott

Mandarin Oriental At Paragon

Pizza Romana Pala

Grand Mercure Bangkok Asoke Residence Marriott Executive Apartments Sathorn Vista Marriott Executive Apartments Sukhumvit Park Mayfair Bangkok Marriott Executive Apartment

Y Where reaches over 100,000 visitors each month. For sales enquiries, contact where@asia-city.co.th or call 02-624-9638.

Natural Ville Executive Residences, Bangkok Oakwood Residence Sukhumvit 24 Oriental Residence Bangkok Somerset Lakeview Sukkhumvit 16 The River Condominium

W Hotel Bangkok The Westin Grande Sukhumvit

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