Where® Thailand September 2016 by Where Thailand

Thailand

PLUS

SEPTEMBER 2016 THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO GO ®

WWW.WHE R E T H A I L A N D.C O M

Thailand’s best chefs Latest openings around the Kingdom

THE SLOW LIFE Tips for seeing a quieter side of Bangkok LES CLEFS D’OR THAIL AND

THE PREFERRED PUBLICATION OF YOUR HOTEL CONCIERGE

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CONTENTS where

l THAILAND l SEPTEMBER 2016

The Guide BANGKOK

24 NIGHTLIFE Enjoy a classy night out at Bangkok's swankiest jazz bars.

25 DINING

Book a seat at Bangkok's most buzzed-about casual Thai restaurants, or discover the city's best pizza.

TAKE IT EASY

28 SHOPS+SERVICES Where to find contemporary Thai crafts to excite design aficionados.

From lazy hotel brunches to cooking classes, here's how to go slow in bustling Bangkok.

29 HEALTH+WELLNESS

Tee off at Bangkok's best-designed and most challenging golf courses.

DINING

10 MEET THE MASTERS

30 ATTRACTIONS

The Thai chefs behind some of Bangkok's very best restaurants.

Explore Bangkok's heritage with these oldschool cultural sites.

AROUND THAILAND

31 ART

14 TRAVEL NEWS

This month's must-visit exhibitions and galleries.

All the latest openings and travel updates from around the Kingdom.

32 NAVIGATE

EXPLORING

Essential tips on getting around.

18 PHLOEN CHIT One of Bangkok's busiest areas offers a taste of the high life, packed with luxury malls and top places to eat and drink.

ALSO INSIDE 4

20 CHAROENKRUNG Amid crumbling walls and amazing street food, Bangkok's oldest road is also home to cool bars and galleries.

Where Thailand is proud to be an associated publication of the Thailand Chapter of Les Clefs d'Or (the International Concierge Association).

Managing Director Andrew Hiransomboon

Art Director Dith Chang

MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS

Editor-in-Chief/Product Director Grégoire Glachant

Deputy Art Director Panita Thiraphapong

MVP | EXECUTIVE President Donna W. Kessler Vice President, Operations Angela E. Allen Chief Travel Editor Geoff Kohl General Manager, Where Maps Christopher Huber

Where Designer Wariya Whangwaewklang

Managing Editor Oliver Irvine Deputy Editor Carl Dixon

Contributors Lily Kittisrikangwan, Natcha Saguankiattichai, Bonnie Sananvatananont

Features Associate Monruedee Jansuttipan

Advertising Director Wanida Akeapichai

Marketing Executive Plaifon Chienvichai

Account Manager Suda Angsuputiphant

Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo

Cover by Peeraya Sirathanisa

HOT DATES

34 21 THINGS WE LOVE

MVP | NATIONAL SALES Vice President, National Sales Rick Mollineaux Director of Partnerships & National Digital Sales Bridget Cody National Sales Coordinator David Gately

MVP | MANUFACTURING & TECHNOLOGY Director of Manufacturing Donald Horton

E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@ Morris.Com

MORRIS COMUNICATIONS

Where Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. 9/F, Sathorn Nakorn Tower, Room A, 100 North Sathorn Rd. Silom, Bangrak, Bangkok 10500 Tel: 02-624-9696 Fax: 02-237-5656 E-mail: where@asia-city.co.th facebook.com/wherethailand

www.wherethailand.com

@where_thailand

Morris Comunications Chairman William S. Morris III President & Ceo William S. Morris IV Production Director of Production Kris Miller

MVP | CREATIVE Chief Creative Officer Haines Wilkerson Senior Regional Editorial Director Margaret Martin Design Director Jane Frey

Photography Director Susan Strayer Creative Coordinator Beverly Mandelblatt E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@Morris.Com

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HOT DATES

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SEP 13

RAISE YOUR VOICE The two-time Grammy Award-winning acapella group Pentatonix perform live as part of their world tour. On top of their extremely popular covers of tracks of everyone from Daft Punk to Justin Timberlake, fans can also expect performances of original songs such as “Can’t Sleep Love.” Tickets are B2,000 from Thaiticketmajor.com 7pm, Muang Thai GMM Live House, 8/F, CentralWorld, 999/1 Rama 1 Rd. BTS Chit Lom

SEP 3

SEP 8-OCT 17

SEP 19-25

SEP 30

September is boat race season, a traditional event that occurs annually during the Buddhist Lent Festival and pays homage to the respective province’s principal Buddha statue in the form of a boat race along the river. The races take place across the country, including Ayutthaya, Phichit, Phitsanulok and Pa Sak, where audiences can marvel at the traditional spectacle.

An entire month of world-class dance and music returns to Bangkok for the 18th year at The International Festival of Dance and Music. Considered one of the biggest festivals of its kind in Asia, this year’s event features a total of 16 eclectic performances from 12 countries, ranging from contemporary dance to Chinese acrobatic. All tickets are available now through Thaiticketmajor. com, with prices starting at B600.

For more details, visit tourismthailand.org

Thailand Cultural Centre, 14 Thiam Ruam Mit Rd. MRT Thailand Cultural Centre

One of the biggest events on Bangkok’s foodie calendar, World Gourmet Festival, returns for its 17th time. This year’s event includes 17 dinners, a sake master class and a Sunday brunch featuring a line-up that includes chefs with two-Michelin-star cred like Mauro Colagreco of Mirazur in France, Anthony Genovese of Il Pagliacco in Italy, and Shinji Kanesaka of Sushi Kanesaka in Tokyo and Shinji by Kanesaka in Macau and Singapore. Dinners are priced from B5,000.

Two members from the legendary rock band Queen, Roger Taylor and Brian May, join the ex-American Idol contestant Adam Lambert for a collaborative world tour featuring some of the British band’s greatest hits including “Bohemian Rhapsody” and “We Will Rock You” as well as Lambert’s own singles including “Ghost Town” and “What Do You Want From Me?” Tickets are B2,000-8,000 from Thaiticketmajor.com.

ON THE WATER

JUST DANCE

STAR CHEFS

Anatara Siam, 155 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-126-8866. BTS Ratchadamri. www.worldgourmet festivalasia.com

JOINT FORCES

Impact Arena, Muang Thong Thani, 99 Popular Rd.

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EXPLORING BANGKOK

SLOW LIFE

Beyond the traffic jams and nightlife, here’s how to stay chill in Bangkok.

THE HOUSE ON SATHORN

SPICEROADS

LEARN TO COOK AUTHENTIC THAI DISHES Learn to make traditional Thai food or artistically carve fruits from scratch with Cookly, a platform where you can book incredible hands-on cooking classes, wine tastings and food tours providing organic Bangkok experiences. Book online at www.cookly.me with prices going from B1,000 to B3,500 per class. Also highly recommended is Bangkok Bold Cooking Studio, a cooking school, gallery, co-working space and chef’s table, all rolled into one. Here, leading local chefs will walk you through how to cook seven courses of delicious traditional Thai food spanning amuse bouche, appetizers, three dishes to eat with rice and two desserts. Cookly www.cookly.me

SERIOUS TEA DRINKING There’s nothing more slow life than kicking back with a glass of jasmine tea and reading a book. Some of the best places to do just that are Peace Oriental Tea House, a Zen-looking institution that sources teas from Japan, China, Taiwan and Thailand; Cha Panya, a minimalist teahouse that specializes in Chinese tea from Fujian and also serves delicious snacks like tea-flavored macarons; and The House on Sathorn, a European-style mansion that serves afternoon tea on its luxurious alfresco patio. Peace Oriental Tea House, 70/5 Sukhumvit Soi 63, 097-267-2626

THE HOUSE ON SATHORN

BIKE RIDES IN BANG KRACHAO Escape the hustle and bustle of the inner city and experience a 25km bike journey that takes you through some of Bangkok’s oldest villages, floating markets and natural greenery across the Chao Phraya River. You’ll get to see historical attractions like temples from the Ayutthaya period and a grand Buddha sculpture. The tour costs B1,250 including bike and helmet. At least two participants required per trip, which depart at 8:30am and 1pm. Book online. SpiceRoads, www.spiceroads.com/tours/bangkok_jungle

Cha Panya, 26/1 Sukhumvit Soi 59, 094-5504659 The House on Sathorn, 106 Sathorn Rd., 02-3444000. BTS Chong Nonsi

Bangkok Bold, 503 Phra Sumen Rd., 098-8294310

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TAKE A CRUISE TO AYUTTHAYA Travel upriver from Bangkok on a converted rice barge to visit Ayutthaya, Thailand’s former capital that was conquered by Burmese invaders in 1767. The trip covers over 400 relics of ancient Thai architecture, from splendid palaces to atmospheric ruins, along with scenes of country life along the river bank. It’s possible to go there and back in a day, but you can also spread the journey over three days, sleeping in the barge’s airconditioned cabins. Thanatharee Cruises, www.thanatharee.com

PEACH ORIENTAL TEA HOUSE

CHECK IN FOR A MARATHON SPA TREATMENT Treat yourself to a relaxing spa and massage afternoon at Oriental Spa, set in a centuryold teahouse that provides a huge variety of treatments under a holistic philosophy. Both full-day and half-day packages are available and include sessions such as full-body detoxifying scrub and steam; aromatherapy signature massage; and herbal wraps. Another equally good option is Devarana Spa, known for its signature treatments including The Heavenly Nantha Garden Experience, a 2.5-hour bath, scrub and massage that combines Thai, Ayurveda and Shiatsu techniques. Oriental Spa, Mandarin Oriental Hotel, 48 Oriental Avenue, 02-659-9000 Devarana Spa, Dusit Thani Bangkok, 946 Rama 4 Rd., 02-636-3596

DEVARANA SPA

BANGKOK BOLD COOKING STUDIO

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EXPLORING BANGKOK LATE-NIGHT STREET FOOD TOURS IN THE OLD TOWN

COCKTAILS IN CHINATOWN

Take a 4-hour tuk-tuk ride that will reveal the other side of Bangkok’s notorious nightlife. You’ll visit more than seven must-visit food spots in the Old Town and eat the best pad Thai and khao mun gai (chicken rice) this historic part of the city has to offer. On top of that, you’ll get to visit the city’s flower markets and temples after sunset, all for the price of B1,900 per person. Book online at www.hivesters.com.

For a sophisticated taste of Bangkok’s happening nightlife in an unlikely residential setting, head to the restored shop-house Tep Bar where you’ll find potent cocktails mixed with Thai fruits, herbs and spices. There’s also a good line of home-infused ya dong (Thai herbal whiskey) as well as a kitchen specializing in Thai tapas (as well as a few classics like pad Thai). Nearby sits the popular Teens of Thailand, a small moody bar that’s owned by a who’s-who of Bangkok’s art and nightlife scene, from fashion photographers and party organizers to mixologists and musicians. Its specialty cocktails made with gin like the must-try Hanami (the house pour), earned the bar the no. 26 ranking in Asia’s 50 Best Bars 2016.

Hivesters, hivesters.com/activity/trip/midnighttuk-tuk-food-tour-bangkok

DISCOVERING LOCAL COMMUNITIES Explore the nooks and crannies of the residential communities in Ban Bat and Kudeejeen and learn about the religious culture of alms bowl production. These bowls are traditionally hand-made and used by monks to beg for food. The “Lost Treasure in Bangkok” itinerary includes many activities like a boat ride along the Chao Phraya River and a dessert workshop where you’ll get to make chor muang (chicken dumplings). Book online, the tour requires at least two travelers and costs B3,740 per person.

LAZY HOTEL BRUNCHES Kick-start your weekend with one of the city’s many delicious all-you-can-eat hotel brunches. Top nods go to Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit’s Sunday Jazzy Brunch, which features a live jazz quartet and arrays of imported ingredients; the Okura Prestige’s Up & Above Sunday Brunch, a five-star buffet spread that also promises one of the best views in town; and Plaza Athenee’s Gastro Bistro Saturday Brunch which focuses on serious French dishes. Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit, 250 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-649-8888. BTS Asoke. MRT Sukhumvit The Okura Prestige Bangkok, Park Venture Ecoplex, 57 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-687-90000. BTS Phloen Chit The Reflexions, Plana Athenee, 61 Wireless Rd., 02-650-8800.

Tep Bar, 61 Soi Nana, Charoenkrung Rd. MRT Hua Lamphong, 098-467-2944, Teens of Thailand, 76 Charoenkrung Rd. MRT Hua Lamphong, 081-443-3784,

Local Alike, www.localalike.com/listing/lost-treasure-in-bangkok

EXPLORING AMAZING GALLERIES Escape the heat and rain and spend the afternoon taking in the city’s vibrant art scene with a trip to the Bangkok Art and Culture Centre, the city’s foremost art center which hosts contemporary art exhibitions across its nine floors from both acclaimed and emerging artists. For something a little different, also check out The Ferry Gallery, a unique art initiative that hosts installations and exhibitions on four privately owned ferries operating on the Chao Phraya River in an attempt to bring art to the lives of daily commuters.

TEP BAR

Bangkok Art and Culture Centre, 393 Rama 1 Rd. BTS Siam The Ferry Gallery, Tha Tien Pier, Maharaj Rd.

OKURA PRESTIGE

BAN BAT KUDEEJEEN

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CONCIERGE PICKS Which Bangkok park do you recommend?

Pussamon Techatuckiyapunt Ascott Sathorn Bangkok

Panisa Ariyasakul The Okura Prestige Bangkok

Kasem Phanprasitha Centara Grand at Central Ladprao

Our guests do not often ask about parks they can visit, but when they do, we suggest Lumpini Park (139/4 Witthayu Rd.) because it is the most popular one in Bangkok. It is also easily accessible from our hotel by a 10-minute walk. From there, they can use BTS Skytrain to get to wherever they want to go next.

For tourists who donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t mind a bit of traveling, I would suggest Suan Rot Fai (Kamphaeng Phet 3 Rd.). With its dedicated bike lane, this hidden gem is better for both joggers and cyclists. While farther from other parks and lacking parking, it makes up for this with beautiful scenery and delicious street food. The kanom jeeb (steamed Thai dumplings) stall is a personal favorite.

The closest park to our hotel is Chatuchak Park (Kamphaeng Phet 1 Rd.) where guests can exercise and relax. On the weekend, there is Chatuchak Market, which is the largest market in Thailand, as well as its adjacent JJ Green Market. There are also special events and activities on certain days, such as Loy Krathong (Nov 15).

LUXX BACC

SILOM +662 635 8800 reservations@staywithluxx.com LANGSUAN +662 684 1111 reservationsxl@staywithluxx.com

TEEN OF THAILAND

www.staywithluxx.com

stay with LUXX in bangkok

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DINING

BEST OF THE BEST

Thai chefs you should know.

BO.LAN

PASTE The chefs: Bongkoch Satongun and Jason Bailey turn out recipes drawn from the aristocratic Sanitwong family, descendants of Rama Bongkoch Satongun II. While the setting and Jason Bailey for Bongkoch and Bailey’s food is rather elaborate, the chefs put the emphasis on incredibly diverse, fresh flavors. PASTE

The place: As becoming as Paste’s wonderful flavors and elegant, muted dining room is the plating: relaxed and effortless despite a painterly attention to color. But these are so much more than pretty plates of food. The vibrant multitude of ingredients makes for complex, lively dishes in which every flavor and texture somehow remain distinct. Just as importantly, you can really feel the chefs’ creativity and personality in their food, which is not always the case at traditionalists like Nahm or Bo.lan. 3/F, Gaysorn Plaza, 999 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-6561003. BTS Chit Lom

BO.LAN

BO.LAN The chefs: When chef couple Duangporn Songvisava and Dylan Jones, who previously worked at David Thompson’s London MichelinDuangporn Songvisava starred restaurant and Dylan Jones Nahm, opened Bo.lan in 2009, they beat the master to giving Bangkok its first devotedly authentic fine-dining Thai restaurant. Today, the pair have not only continued to drive Bo.lan down increasingly uncompromising roots, waving goodbye to the a la carte menu altogether last year, but they’ve also expanded with the street-food-and-cocktails focused Err. The place: Featuring fine Thai cuisine made using traditional methods and the best ingredients, Bo.lan—an amalgam of the chef-couple’s names— has made a splash in the global dining world with its aromatic curries, beautifully plated salads and artfully conceived menu. Adding to the allure is a striking dining room, set in an old house replete with tropical garden and close to hipster thoroughfare Soi Thonglor. Try the “Bo.lan balance,” a menu which changes along with the seasons. 24 Sukhumvit Soi 53, 02-260-2961-2. BTS Thong Lo

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BLUE ELEPHANT The chef: Nooror Somany Steppe has been cooking her whole life, ever since she grew up Nooror Somany in Chachoengsao Steppe province where her sister owned a small restaurant. Since then, she’s traveled the world promoting Thai cuisine and earned herself the title of “Most Creative Chef in Asia” at the Hospitality Asia Platinum Awards back in 2008. The place: The flagship branch of the globallyknown Thai restaurant brand is housed in a stunning colonial-style mansion with a classic interior of dark rattan furnishings and authentic Asian artifacts. Chef-owner Nooror and her team serve up royal Thai cuisine with authentic flavors. While more modern Thai restaurants grab the most column inches, Blue Elephant is still worth a visit for both atmosphere and food.

ISSAYA SIAMESE CLUB

BLUE ELEPHANT

ISSAYA SIAMESE CLUB

233 Sathorn Rd., 02-673-9353. BTS Surasak

ISSAYA SIAMESE CLUB The chef: When you think celebrity chef in Bangkok, you think Ian Ian Chalermkittichai Chalermkittichai. He made his name over in New York during the 2000s with several successful restaurants before moving back to Bangkok with Hyde & Seek, a gastro bar that sparked a gourmet burger wave across the city. Now though, he’s more likely to be found as Issaya Siamese Club, his highly-regarded Thai restaurant set in a beautiful, vibrantly colored old manor house. The place: Issaya’s food manages a high-wire act of being resolutely traditional and thoughtprovoking in equal measure. Those well-versed in Thai food will recognize most dishes on the menu (which includes plenty of vegetables grown in the restaurant’s garden). Yet most are given a little twist, notably through the artful presentation. 4 Soi Sri Aksorn, Chuaphloeng Rd., 02-672-9040-1

THE FRESHEST OF SEAFOOD UNDER THE STARS AT BLUE SKY Everybody knows that only the freshest and finest seafood can be served raw, and at Blue Sky’s new raw bar, the oysters and lobster dishes on offer are just that. Come and sample imported Hamachi Japanese fish and oyster tartare, Tsarskaya oysters, live whole Boston lobsters and our fabulously decadent oyster and champagne soup—plus many more top-notch seafood specialties. 18.00 – 22.30 hrs. 30th August – 30th November 2016

FOR MORE INFORMATION AND RESERVATION T: 02 541 1234 EXT. 4151 | E: FB_OFFICE@CHR.CO.TH centarahotelsresorts.com/cglb

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DINING

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BANGKOK BOLD

KHAO

LE DU

KHAO

The chef: Thitid “Ton” Tassanakajohn was the toast of Bangkok’s restaurant scene in 2015 when in its opening year Le Du scooped Thitid Tassanakajohn third place in local fine-dining authority Top Tables’ yearly guide. Since then the Culinary Institute of America graduate has gone on to open similarly acclaimed restaurants, Baan (home-style Thai dishes) and Baa Gaa Din (deconstructed Thai street food). But Le Du and its contemporary reconstructions of Thai classics remain where the chef’s heart lies.

The chef: Vichit Mukura headed the kitchen at Mandarin Oriental’s Thai restaurant, Sala Rim Naam, for an incredible 28 years Vichit Mukura before leaving at the end of 2014. (For those who don’t know, the Oriental is Bangkok’s oldest and most-venerated hotel.) After decades cooking classic Thai Royal cuisine, Vichit has now dared to go his own route with menus that course through a series of small plates while never compromising on authentic Thai flavors.

The place: Once in a while, a Thai restaurant comes around that manages to fuse classic Thai food with modern Western techniques in a manner that doesn’t feel heavy-handed or forced. Such is the case with Le Du, where Thitid turns out an unerringly contemporary menu that changes seasonally. The wine is an equal highlight (Thitid is himself a certified sommelier) thanks to bottles sourced solely from organic or boutique outfits.

The place: Just 4-12 people are lucky enough to get a seat at Khao (the Thai word for rice) each evening. The space (a single chef’s table in full view of the kitchen) sits alongside the high-end Japanese restaurant Yuutaro, and feels more like an elegant dining room than an actual restaurant. You have a choice of menus ranging from 6-10 courses, each featuring modernized traditional Thai dishes like red curry with grilled taraba crab leg, and akami (non-fatty tuna) with mango and

399/3 Silom Soi 7, 092-919-9969. BTS Chong Nonsi

papaya spicy salad. Each curry dish is served with red jasmine rice from Vichit’s own rice farm. 64 Sukhumvit Soi 51, 098-829-8878

KHAO

BANGKOK BOLD The chef: Chef Supanut “Ann” Kanarak kicked off her career at a David Thompson Thai restaurant in Australia, Darley Supanut Kanarak St. Thai, where she credits the chef as her inspiration. Since returning to Bangkok, she’s taken on the kitchen at Nahm and The Four Seasons Hotel’s Spice Market where she continued to grab the attention of local and foreign food lovers. Now she’s taking control of her own kitchen in the intimate Bangkok Bold with partners from the defunct Parata Diamond and a former co-worker from Nahm. The place: This cooking studio doubles as a chef’s table for six to ten people. The chefs cook up seven courses of delicious traditional Thai food spanning amuse bouche, appetizers, three dishes to eat with rice and two desserts. Sophisticated Thai techniques are showcased in the mee grob (crispy noodles) and nam prik platoo (minced mackerel chili paste), for which the mackerel is grilled and stir-fried for extra flavor. The overall atmosphere provides a homey feeling to pair with the delectable, traditional food it serves out with exciting local ingredients. 503 Phra Sumen Rd., 098-829-4310

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BANGKOK PLANETARIUM

CURIOUS CURIOS

A guide to Bangkok’s most unusual museums. The Museum of Floral Culture

THE MUSEUM OF FLORAL CULTURE

Owned by celebrity florist Sakul Intrakul, this museum sits in a 100-year-old teak mansion. Focusing on Thailand’s rich culture of floral art, guided tours are available in Thai, English and Japanese, and private tours can also be requested with Sakul himself, who will personally lead you through the collection to provide her own unique insight. The tour ends with a casual cup of tea and chat in the museum’s beautiful Thai-meets-Zen garden. 315 Samsen Soi 28, Yaek Ongkarak 13. Open TueSun 10am-6pm. Admission is B150 for adults and B75 for children.

Bangkok Planetarium

BANGKOK SEASHELL MUSEUM

Navigate the galaxy at the country’s oldest planetarium, which recently had a much-needed renovation. The venue now boasts a state-of-the-art digital theater system with 360-degree visuals and 5.1 surround sound, plus an impressive aurora-themed decor. The educational and entertaining shows guide visitors through a history of space travel and an eye-opening look into all corners of the galaxy. The National Science Centre for Education, 928 SUkhumvit Rd. BTS Ekkamai. Open Tue-Sun 8:30am-4:30pm. Admission is B30 for adults and B20 for children. www.fb.com/bkkplanetarium

The House of Museums

BANGKOK SEASHELL MUSEUM

Brought to you by TAT

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With its charming collection of vintage curios, this museum invites visitors to take a closer look at everyday life in Thailand dating back to the 1960s. You’ll find everyday household items ranging from toys to kitchen utensils to propaganda posters. It’s all split into various zones, including an old-

fashioned pharmacy area set up with old Chinese medicine bottles, and the upstairs electronic section filled with old radios, televisions and mobiles. Khlong Pho Land, 170/17 Moo 7, Khlong Pho Soi 2. Open Sat-Sun 10am-5pm. www.fb.com/House-ofMuseums

Bangkok Seashell Museum

Explore the beauty of seashells from around the world without having to leave the city at this unique museum that features more than 3,000 specimens of 624 selected species of mollusks. Learn all about underwater life through exhibits ranging from 100-year-old ammonite fossils to colorful poisonous cones—plus, don’t miss the giant seashell from Indonesia which weighs more than 300kg. Bangkok 23,

Seashell

02-234-0291.

Museum, Open

1043

daily

Silom

Soi

10am-6:30pm.

www.bkkseashellmuseum.co.th

Siriraj Forensic Museum

Set in one of the city’s most renowned hospitals, this museum moves away from artistic and cultural artifacts and focuses on exhibits about the human body. The space is split into the Pathology Museum showing the evolution of medicine; the Forensic Museum involving the process of investigating murder crimes; the Anatomical Museum showcasing more than 2,000 specimens of human antomy; the Prehistoric Museum exhibiting the evolution of life forms; and the Parasitology Museum showcasing various kinds of parasites and their life cycle.

2/F, Adulyadej Vikrom Building, Siriraj Hospital, Phran Nok Rd., 02-419-2618. Open Mon-Sat 9am4pm. Free entry.

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AROUND THAILAND

SANTIBURI SAMUI BEACH RESORT AND SPA

CONRAD HOTELS AND RESORTS

TRAVEL NEWS

The latest openings and happenings from around the kingdom.

KOH SAMUI TEE TIME Santiburi Samui Beach Resort and Spa (077-425-031, www.santiburisamui.com) has that swanky, exclusive country club kind of feel, made even better by a recent renovation. Stays can be pricey, but your money gets you no shortage of space or style, with suites and villas turned out like tasteful apartments that abound with luxurious Oriental loveliness—and it has its own golf country club tucked up in the Samui hills. With the new four-day-threenight Santiburi Five Star Golf package, you get to stay in one of their Deluxe Garden villas along with unlimited transfers between the resort and the golf club, as well as daily sessions with someone called the “Swing Doctor,” who promises to put everything right with your pitches and putts. Wind down with a complimentary 90-minute treatment for two at the resort's spa—also a new addition. The whole lot will cost you B52,500 for two, valid till Dec 20.

TRIP ADVISOR Conrad Hotels and Resorts (conradhotels3.hilton.com) has launched a new website called 135.stayinspired.com which aims to make travel planning a lot easier. The website features complete itineraries for each of its properties, whether you have one, three or five hours free to explore. For those staying at Conrad Koh Samui (goo.gl/qUHxeu), it suggests some pretty awesome adventures, like trips to Cera, a local designer ceramic shop in the north of the island, rum tasting at Magic Alambic Rum Distillery, pampering at the reputed Tamarind Springs or sailing off to Koh Matsum (in fact, this one is a free service offered to all guests of the hotel). Room rates start from B24,000 a night.

AIR SPACE

CONRAD HOTELS AND RESORTS

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HUA HIN TAKE FLIGHT

PHUKET SOUL CLEANSING

PHANG NGA MODERN TROPICAL

Hua Hin’s latest restaurant taps into the resort town’s aviation heritage (it was the first place in Thailand to train commercial pilots). Air Space (063-916-0999, www.fb.com/ airspacehuahin) features a stunning interior dominated by a full-scale model of the world’s first ever aircraft, the 1903 Wright Flyer, which hangs from the ceiling of the barn-like space. The restaurant's menu is an all-Thai affair courtesy of one of our favorite chefs (see page 12), Bangkok Bold’s Supanut “Ann” Kanarak (previously head of Four Season's Spice Market). Her signature treats include miang som o (pomelo salad on fried wild betel leaves) along with seven aviationthemed cocktails like the Concorde, Captain, Black Box and 1903 Wright Flyer Gold Age. The coffee bar serves beans from Doi Chang, South Africa and South America. Try their Champagne-glass-coffee Deconstructed Latte served with a freshly baked cookie.

The swankiest of swanky boutique hotel brands, Aman (www.aman.com), has rolled out something called Individual Wellness Immersions (goo.gl/Vwqljk)— total retreats of up to 21 days where they promise to put right the areas in your life where you’re screwing up: stress management, emotional control, weight loss, that type of thing. Tell them you want to get in shape at Phuket’s Amanpuri (goo. gl/MeDMhE) on Phuket, for example, and they might put you on a three-to-14day fat-burning program packed with qi gong, muay Thai, TRX and cardio beach bootcamps. The price? That depends on your tailored program, but rooms start at US$712 (B24,849) a night for a pavilion.

The latest hotel to wear the esteemed X2 badge is Khao Lak’s long-established luxury favorite the Anda Mani. Now trading as the X2 Khao Lak Anda Mani Resort (063-063-8310, goo.gl/TnjMDh), the tropical paradise beside Khao Lak Lam Ru National Park (an hour’s drive from Phuket International Airport) is rolling out rates starting from B6,000/night including breakfast. There are just nine rooms, suites and villas at the property, which have each been newly decked out in X2’s signature crisp, tropical-modern style.

X2 KHAO LAK ANDA MANI RESORT

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whereExploring SEPTEMBER 2016 | BANGKOK

PHLOEN CHIT Perhaps Bangkokâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s sleekest neighborhood, Phloen Chit serves up refined restaurants, luxurious boutiques and elegant bars, all within easy BTS access (Phloen Chit Station).

CENTRAL EMBASSY

NEIGHBORHOOD GUIDES 18 PHLOEN CHIT

20 CHAROENKRUNG

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Local guides. Worldwide.

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PHLOEN CHIT cramped shop packed to the rafters with bolts of cloth. But we like to get sartorial tips from Win, his son. Make sure you have enough time for several fittings. In the same plaza you’ll also find the cool men’s leather store 3 Zettino (098-664-9516). For more high-end shopping, visit the compact but nonetheless very luxurious

GAYSORN

4 Gaysorn (02-656-1177). As well as numerous luxury international fashion labels, you’ll find Thai brands like Sretsis, Disaya and Zenithorial. Pick up locally crafted gifts from Jim Thompson, or indulge at 4 Panpuri Organic Spa (L/F, Gaysorn, 02-656-1199).

NEW

CHAR

Be sure to head to the latest rooftop bar in town with an empty stomach because it’s not just about the drinks here. Over on the grill they cook up some amazing local beef from French butcher Arnaud Carre—one of the most respected food names in town. Char actually takes up the top two stories of the recently opened Hotel Indigo, with a stylish dining room downstairs and the rooftop bar up above to benefit from those amazing views across Bangkok’s “Embassy Row.”

DINING This is a very international area for dining. In fact, the only cuisine that’s thin on the ground is Thai food. For respite from Central Embassy’s boutiques, pull up a blond-wood chair at 1 Siwilai Rocket Coffeebar (5/F, Central Embassy, 02-160-5836) for organic salads, freshly baked goods and artisanal coffee. The highlight has to be its delightful breakfast menu that you can enjoy with views of the British Embassy’s gardens. Prefer Ital-

5 25-26/F, Hotel Indigo, 81 Wireless Rd., 02-207-4999. Open daily 6pm-11pm. BTS Phloen Chit

GALLERIES AND ATTRACTIONS For rare and beautiful publications, 1 Hardcover: The Art Book Shop (4/F, Central Embassy, 02-160-5977) is one of the high-end Central Embassy shopping mall’s hidden gems. Expect to find rare publications like Taschen’s supersized Sebastiao Salgado: Genesis, which comes with its own Tadao Ando display stand. At the back of the store is an art exhibition space called Serindia Gallery Annex. Nearby, on a leafy side-street, 2 100 Tonson (100 Soi Tonson, 02-684-1527) is located in a beautiful building designed by renowned French designer Christian

100 TONSON

Liaigre, and regularly welcomes such high-profile artists as Rirkrit Tiravanija.

bronze to stingray skin, are handcrafted by a team of skilled artisans working from Bangkok to create pieces that are both and meaningful. In the same GIANNI RISTORANTE

CENTRAL EMBASSY

SHOPPING 1 Central Embassy (1031 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-119-7777) dedicates eight floors to retail shops from some of the world’s most exciting fashion brands, including Ralph Lauren, Tom Ford, Christian Louboutin and Jil Sander. For something more unique, check out 1 Alexander Lamont (2/F, Central Embassy, 02-160-5772), who creates beautiful decorative objects which draw on both European and Asian design. The luxurious materials, from

VUUDH

mall, 1 Vuudh (4/F, Central Embassy, 02-160-5826) is a Thai company specializing in high-end interior fragrances with an Eastern influence. Its selection of products is limited—candles, diffusers and sprays—but very elegant, much like the store itself. For a genuinely good Bangkok tailoring experience, stop by 3 Pinky Tailor (Mahatun Plaza Arcade, 02-252-9680). The patriarch, Pinky, still rules over his

ian? !0 Gianni Ristorante (34/1 Soi Tonson, 02-252-1619), or “Gianni’s,” as it’s referred to by most, has consistently oustanding food, an elegant opera-house atmosphere and polished service. The ever-changing specials frequently knock it out of the ballpark. Sticking to fine dining, 8 Yamazato (24/F, The Okura Prestige, 02-687-

YAMAZATO

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EXPLORING

PHLOEN CHIT 9000) is one of Bangkok’s most luxurious Japanese restaurants, serving grand 6-8 course kaiseki dinners. On a more casual tip, the Mexican 9 La Monita Taqueria (Mahatun Plaza, 888/25-26 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-6509581) does hands-down the best quesadilla and fish taco in town, while

Y SPOTLIGHT

HYDE & SEEK

PIZZA MASSILIA

!1 Pizza Massilia (15/1 Soi Ruam Ruedi, 02-651-5091) is Bangkokians’ answer to authentic wood-fire pizza. For a truly upscale Thai dining experience, book a table at either Osha (see spotlight) or 4 Paste (3/F, Gaysorn, 02-392-4313), which specializes in heritage recipes, especially curry.

NIGHTLIFE 8 Ogu Ogu (G/F, Park Ventures Ecoplex, 02-108-2255) dubs itself a sake bar and takes no little inspiration from New York. The space is all about hanging wires, lamps, wooden partitions and some patterned chairs. The food isn’t too authentic, but make it for the 5-7pm happy hour to enjoy some fun sake tasting flights. Later in the evening, head over to Soi Ruamrudee for the chic gastro bar 6 Hyde and Seek (Athenee Residence, Soi Ruamrudee, 02-168-5152-3). As well as lovinglymade traditional pub food with a highend twist, this bar does some seriously good cocktails, made by a team of respected barmen.

Osha

The very definition of “OTT,” Osha hosts a menu of reimagined Thai dishes in a dining room crowned with a gold-leaf-coated stairwell and elaborate wallpaper depicting scenes from Thai mythology. Dishes like the Ocean & Flora salad highlight the menu’s two strong suits: premium protein and botanical flavors. Elsewhere, staples like green curry are dressed up with spherified pearls of coconut milk.

7 99 Wireless Rd., 02-256-6555. Open daily 11am-2:30pm, 6pm-12am. BTS Ratchadamri. www.oshabangkok.com

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CHAROENKRUNG Y CHAROENKRUNG’S

TOP 5 STREET-FOOD STALLS

!8 Kao Kha Mu Charoen Sang Silom This famous (and crowded) spot serves Chinese-style stewed pork knuckle with rice. Come early before it sells out. 02-234-8036. Open daily 8:30am1:30pm

!9 Jok Prince Bangrak

NEW

One of the best congee (rice porridge) in Bangkok—a simple but powerful blend of velvety stewed rice, minced pork and poached egg.

BAAN PHADTHAI

This charming little Thai restaurant specializes in pad Thai, arguably Thailand’s most famous dish internationally. Run by the restaurateur behind renowned restaurants like Issaya and Pizza Massilia, Baan Phadthai boasts of a “secret” 18-ingredient sauce, noodles sourced from the Eastern Thai city of Chanthaburi, house-dried shrimps, duck egg and crab fat. Opt for grilled pork, grilled chicken, grilled river prawn or blue crab meat on top of your pad Thai, or go vegetarian. For dessert, do not be put off by the durian steamed buns—creamy and flavorful.

089-795-2629. Open daily 6am12pm, 4pm-9pm

@2 21-23 Charoenkrung Soi 44, 02-060-5553. Open daily 11am-10pm. BTS Saphan Taksin @0 Prachak Pet Yang

Rumored to have existed for over a century, this place specializes in khao na pet (roasted duck with rice)

tretching along the Eastern bank of the Chao Phraya River, the 150-year-old Charoenkrung Road winds its way through some of the city’s major cultural hubs, from the heritage buildings of upper Silom to the delicious street-food institutions of Chinatown. Thanks to a recent revival of the neighborhoood’s old shop-houses, you’ll also discover a bevvy of cool new bars and art galleries hidden down back streets.

HERITAGE WALK The area between sois 34-44 is rich with architectural attractions. Among them is the 1 Old Customs House (Charoenkrung Soi 36), which dates back to 1880 and was once the trading gateway between Bangkok and the rest of the world. It’s now used as

GENERAL POST OFFICE

the fire brigade’s headquarters. The recently renovated 2 General Post Office building next to Charoenkrung Soi 34 is another unique part of Bangkok’s architectural heritage, and one of the few Art Deco buildings to be found in the city. Religious highlights include the Thai-Chinese 3 Wat Suan Phlu temple (Charoenkrung Soi 42/1), where you can go and pay respect to the Chinese deity Guanyin, and 4 Assumption Cathedral (Charoenkrung Soi 40), a Roman Catholic church dating back to the early 1900s that serves as the place of worship for the Catholic all-boys’ school Assumption College. There’s also a strong Muslim community based around the 5 Haroon Mosque

02-234-3755. Open daily 7am8:30pm

ASSUMPTION CATHEDAL

(Charoenkrung Soi 36). Once the city’s largest wooden mosque, it has since been reconstructed in concrete but remains in keeping with traditional Islamic design.

GALLERIES There are three worthwhile galleries in the 6 O.P. Garden compound (4, 6 Charoenkrung Soi 36, 02-266-0186). The oldest among them is Serindia Gallery (02-238-6410), founded in 2009 by publisher and art enthusias-

JAO LONG LUK CHIN PLA

@1 Jao Long Luk Chin Pla & Jae Lee Luk Chin Pla Located opposite each other, these two restaurants are renowned for their noodles and fish balls. Both are great. Jao Long Luk Chin Pla, 02-2347499. Open daily 6am-9pm Jae Lee Luk Chin Pla, 02-234-2791. Open daily 8am-9pm

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EXPLORING

CHAROENKRUNG sic cuisine is still hard to beat. At the same hotel, check out the riverside terrace Ciao Terrazzo for something more casual. For a refined Cantonese experience under dripping chandeliers, check

SAMBAL

out Shang Palace at the !4 Shangri-La Hotel, (Charoenkrung Soi 44, 02-2367777) where you’ll find a la carte dim sum as well as other Chinese favorites like Peking duck and whole suckling pig. In the same hotel, Volti is a stylish option for Italian cuisine, while !5 Sambal at the Royal Orchid Sheraton is a more laidback riverside venue that serves Southeast Asian cuisine with contemporary touches. Also see our pick of Charoenkrung’s best street food eats opposite.

LE NORMANDIE

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34, 02-237-0077) is a one-stop shopping complex that offers Thai craft, antiques and artwork by local artists. For fine fashion and decorative objects, !0 O.P. Place (Charoenkrung Soi 38, 02-237-4062) is filled with tailor shops, jewelry specialists and Thai handicraft souvenirs from The Chitralada Projects. It’s also worth taking a look at the historic !1 Mandarin Oriental hotel (Charoenkrung Soi 38, 02659-9000), where there are several high-end jewelry and fashion brands including Lotus Arts de Vivre (02236-0400) and Hong Kong-based resort-wear specialist Marie France Van Damme (02-630-9400). Tucked away in a complex of WWII-era warehouses, you’ll find the by-appointmentonly showroom of !2 P.Tendercool (02266-4344), which sells striking tables

s Rd

RIVER CITY

Sap

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1 Old Customs House 2 General Post Office 3 Wat Suan Phlu Temple 4 Assumption Cathedral 5 Haroon Mosque 6 O.P. Garden - Serindia Gallery - Modern Gallery - Artha Gallery 7 Speedy Grandma 8 Soy Sauce Factory 9 River City !0 O.P. Place !1 Mandarin Oriental Hotel - Lotus Marie - France Van Damme - Le Normandie - Bamboo Bar - Ciao Terrazzo !2 P. Tendercool !3 Fifty-Five Antiques !4 Shangri-La Hotel - Shang Palace - Volti !5 Royal Orchid Sheraton (Sambal) !6 Soulbar !7 Viva & Aviv !8 Kao Kha Mu Charoen Sang Silom !9 Jok Prince Bangrak @0 Prachak Pet Yang @1 Jao Long Luk Chin Pla & Jae Lee Luk Chin Pla @2 Baan Phadthai Nare

!7 9

VIVA & AVIV

Rd.

The area is well-known for antiques and gemstones, as well as shipping services to help bring your goods home. 9 River City (Charoenkrung Soi

Opened back in 1953 but given a stunning renovation not too long ago, the Mandarin Oriental’s !1 Bamboo Bar is one of the city’s oldest live jazz institutions. To this day, it maintains a moody, lounge-lizard atmosphere made even better thanks to some of the city’s best cocktails (try the barrel-aged XO Sazerac). !6 Soulbar (945 Charoenkrung Rd., 083-092-2266) offers live music of a very different sort, in a casual shophouse kitted out with industrial furnishings. Located right by the Chao Phraya River, !7 Viva & Aviv (B/F, River City Shopping Complex, 23 Yotha Rd, 02639-6305) is an open-air cocktail bar with a subtle (and chic) pirate theme.

Rd.

Thanks to the many luxury hotels that line the riverbank, this is one of the best areas in Bangkok for high-end dining. The city’s oldest and, by our reckoning, most atmospheric hotel, the !1 Mandarin Oriental, is home to Le Normandie, which for years set the standard for French fine dining in Bangkok. Its combination of old-school silver service and immaculately plated clas-

Surasakg

tic Shane Suvikapakornkul. The gallery focuses on Asian cultural artefacts, specifically from the Himalayan region. Next door, Modern Gallery (02-2386449) features work by revered Thai artists like Thawan Duchanee and Chalermchai Kositpipat along with the new generation like Lolay Thaweesak Sritongdee. Right opposite, French gallerist Pascal Billieres’ Artha Gallery (02-630-9489) aims to promote rising Southeast Asian artists from Thailand, Myanmar and Vietnam. If you’re looking for something more edgy, head down to Charoenkrung Soi 28. 7 Speedy Grandma (089-508-3859) is a big favorite of Bangkok’s alt-indie crowd thanks to its regular exhibitions, film screenings and parties. Nearby, 8 Soy Sauce Factory (061-835-6824) is run by the same group of people and focuses on photography exhibitions.

DINING

Charoen Kr

SPEEDY GRANDMA

NIGHTLIFE

Pan

made from reclaimed slabs of teak. Though purchasing a table will set you back a six-figure sum, it’s worth dropping by purely for the spectacle, as well as to peer into next door’s !3 Fifty-Five Antiques (02-267-2297), which has some of the most impressive ancient Burmese artefacts in the city.

GETTING THERE

Getting to this part of Charoenkrung is easy. Simply take the BTS (Silom line) to Saphan Taksin station. From there you can either explore Charoenkrung by foot or take one of the free hotel boats that shuttle guests from Saphan Taksin pier.

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ThewhereGuide SEPTEMBER 2016 | BANGKOK NEW

SHINSEN FISH MARKET

With more than a passing resemblance to Taipei’s uber-cool Addiction Aquatic Development fish market, this large warehouse is Bangkok’s newest supermarket specializing in ocean delicacies. Live taraba crab, snow crab, lobster, scallops and sea urchin sit alongside fresh fish, meat, cheese and cold cuts. Turn your purchases into sashimi or a cooked meal to eat right there on the spot. 163/6 Sukhumvit Soi 39. 02-260-6511. Open daily 11am-11pm. www.fb.com/Shinsenfishmarket

BANGKOK’S BEST VENUES 24 NIGHTLIFE 25 DINING

28 SHOP 29 HEALTH & WELLNESS

30 ATTRACTIONS 31 ART

32 NAVIGATE

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GUIDE

NIGHTLIFE NEW

TOUCHE HOMBRE

This Australian-hailing bar blends Mexican booze, street art and hip-hop tunes into a space that transitions perfectly from dinner into a night out. Along with a dangerously good line of tequila and mezcal (try the Tommy’s margarita), the place also serves some excellent Mexican food. Indulge in richly-spiced chillies, house-made tortillas and chips, and perfectly grilled corn on the cob with chipotle mayo, cotijia cheese and lime. 2/F, 72 Courtyard, 72 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 061-550-6346. Open Tue-Thu 6pm-1am; Sun 6pm1am; Fri-Sat 6pm-2am

Hot Spots

JAZZ BARS

BAMBOO BAR

The Mandarin Oriental’s bar is one of the city’s oldest live jazz institutions. It’s also one of the coolest, thanks to a decadently atmospheric interior that manages to pull off leopard print and bamboo furniture with astonishingly tasteful flair. Singers take the mic at 9pm daily, accompanied by music from a baby grand and surrounded by framed portraits of jazz legends. Then there’s the head barman, who cut his teeth in the sacred cocktail-making ground of London’s Artesian bar. 1/F, Mandarin Oriental, 48 Charoenkrung Soi 40 (Oriental Ave.), 02-659-9000. Open Sun-Thu 5pm-1am; Fri-Sat 5pm-2am. BTS Saphan Taksin

MAGGIE CHOO’S

The people behind this stunning Silom basement bar are starting to get more involved in the Bangkok underground music scene. That means that along with the regular Thursday jazz nights, the bar has been hosting a few names from the Bangkok indie scene lately. The space itself is something to behold, evoking the decadence of opium or gambling dens. Underground/F, Hotel Novotel Bangkok Fenix Silom, 320 Silom Rd., 091-772-2144. Open Mon-Thu 7:30pm-2am; Sun 7:30pm-2am; Fri-Sat 7:30pm3am.

THE LIVING ROOM BANGKOK

With regular international guests of the highest caliber, this hotel bar is one of the most serious jazz institutions in town. Comfy leather couches (pick a spot furthest from the speaker) and an extensive list of red and white wine make this a favorite hangout of business execs who like nothing more than a stiff drink and some smooth music. Live jazz plays day and night, both from big local names and international guests. There’s also a free-flow drinks deal for B1,200 from 8pm-midnight.

DIPLOMAT

As the name suggests, this bar in the luxurious Conrad hotel is a puff-your-cigarand-strike-a-deal sort of a place. You’ll find the corporate (and diplomatic) types flock to the venue in their suits, sipping their cognacs and tapping their feet to some live jazz. It just oozes class, comfort and a certain bygone style. They’ve also got late-night snacks, from roasted snow fish to chicken/pork satay. Conrad Hotel, 87 Wireless Rd., 02-690-9999. Open Sun-Thu 10-1am; Fri-Sat 10-2am. BTS Phloen Chit

Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit, 250 Sukhumvit Rd., 02649-8353. Open daily 9am-midnight. BTS Asok

‘

Y SPOTLIGHT

ST. REGIS BAR

Perched on the 12th floor of the luxurious hotel, you’ll be getting impressive views over the Royal Bangkok Sports Club as you sip on a very Thai take on the Bloody Mary, a cocktail the St. Regis New York claims to have invented. The interior is rather masculine with lots of leather couches, dark wood and rows of chandeliers, while the terrace zone is slightly more laid back thanks to its chic garden furniture. The drinks list is extensive and and now you will find some amazing local jazz and blues bands playing live on weekends. 12/F, The St. Regis Bangkok, 159 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-207-7801. Open daily 9-1am. BTS Ratchadamri

Havana Social Going for a ‘40s-50s Havana high-life vibe, this hidden bar specializing in rum is Cuban pastiche done right: shuttered windows, spare lighting and crumbling walls spruced up with colorful tiles, murals and live Afro-Cuban music. The entrance is tucked inside a small alley opposite Fraser Suites. Find the telephone booth labeled “Telefono,” then call the place (on your modern-day smartphone) for the night’s unique entry code. Sukhumvit Soi 11, 087-066-7711. Open daily 6pm2am. www.fb.com/havanasocialbkk. BTS Nana

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GUIDE

DINING NEW

LITTLE BAO

This delicious bao institution comes all the way from Hong Kong in the form of a trendy American-style diner serving up chef May Chow’s playful fast foodinspired take on traditional Chinese fare. Set in one of the city’s most happening nightlife community malls, it serves up serious bao burgers stuffed with fillings like pork belly, crispy Sichuan chicken, fish tempura and shiitake tempeh. Also don’t miss the ice-cream bao, which feature Guss Damn Good’s creamy flavors sandwiched between golden fried buns. G/F, 72 Courtyard, 72 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-392-6922. Open Tue-Sun 6pm-midnight

Y SPOTLIGHT

Hot Spots DELICIOUS THAI TAPAS

KRAM

Well-made Thai comfort food in a hipster setting: Kram in a nutshell. Set in a greenery-filled house decorated with bean bags and hanging light bulbs, Kram offers classic Thai dishes such as gaeng ua poo bai chaploo (curry with crabmeat and wild betel leaf), woonsen dok kajorn pad kai (stir-fried glass vermicelli with eggs and cowslip creeper) and pla rak gluay pad prik khing (stir-fried horseface loach with ginger-chili paste).

BAA GA DIN

113 Sukhumvit Soi 39, 02-258-8170. Open Mon-Fri 11am-2:30pm, 5:30-10pm; Sat-Sun 11am-10pm

BAA GA DIN

One of a vanguard of restaurants that seek to tweak tried-and-tested street food favorites, Baa Ga Din presents a modern twist to roadside specialties like chicken wings and oyster omelets. The brainchild of Thitid Tassanakajohn of acclaimed fine-dining eatery Le Du, Baa Ga Din also serves an inventive cocktail menu in a friendly, bistro atmosphere that lures large groups who want the casual experience of Thai street food without the exhaust fumes and teeny stools. 26 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-662-3813. Open Wed-Sun 11:30am-2:30pm, 6-11pm; Mon 11:30am-2:30pm, 6-11pm

Blue Elephant

SOMTUM DER

This restaurant won a Michelin star for its sister venue of the same name in New York. Those familiar with its well-balanced salads will understand why. The kitchen’s only compromise to Bangkokians’ weaker stomachs is to pasteurize the pla ra (fermented fish sauce). Apart from that, you can expect full, well-rounded heat in the dishes that call for it. Don’t miss the wonderful pork skewers marinated in coconut milk or deep-fried minced pork balls, either.

The flagship branch of the globally-known Thai restaurant brand is housed in a stunning colonial-style mansion with a classic interior of dark rattan furnishings and authentic Asian artifacts. Chef and owner Nooror Somany Steppe and her team serve up royal Thai cuisine with authentic flavor. While more modern Thai restaurants have lately grabbed most column inches, Blue Elephant is still worth a visit for both atmosphere and food. 233 Sathorn Rd., 02-673-9353. Open daily 11:30am2:30pm, 6:30-10:30pm. BTS Surasak

KRAM

SOMTUM DER

5/5 Sala Daeng Rd., 02-632-4499. Open daily 11am2:30pm, 4:30-10pm. MRT Silom

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TASTE OF THE CITY

DINING HONG KONG Recent Openings

MORIMOTO The renowned Iron Chef serves a fun and inspired take on Japanese cuisine. 4/F, Mahanakorn Cube, 96 Narathiwat Ratchanakarin Rd. 02-060-9099. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm; Sun-Wed 6-11pm; Thu-Sat 6pm-1am. BTS Chong Nonsi

MUINE A cool and contemporary Vietnamese restaurant with arguably the best banh mi in Bangkok. 2/F, Habito, Sukhumvit Soi 77. 092-9594629. BTS On Nut

CALI’S GRILL 23

Ecuadorian cuisine arrives in Bangkok. 24/10 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 02-258-2428. Open Mon-Sat noon-11pm; Sun 11am-11pm. MRT Sukhumvit

Advertise your business with us starting from B5,000

KINKAO Tucked away in Central Eastville comes this opening by the people behind Naj, The Local and Crab and Claw. G/F, Central Eastville, Praditmanoontham Rd., 02-553-6185. Open daily 11am-9:30pm

Email sales@asia-city.co.th or call 026249601

PHOTO CREDIT GOES HERE

Credit card payment accepted.

26 W H E R E T H A I LAND I DECEMBER 2 0 1 1 I www.wheretraveler.com

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GUIDE

DINING BANGKOK’S BEST PIZZERIAS

SUPANNIGA EATING ROOM

One of Bangkok’s favorite Thai restaurants has built its reputation on delicate traditional plates bursting with strong, authentic flavors. The casual decor plays with the vivid yellow of Supanniga flowers, while other references to Eastern Thai culture abound. Don’t miss the pu jah (blended crabmeat and pork, seasoned with pepper and steamed inside crab shell), panang nuea lai (beef chunk in red curry) and moo cha muang (stewed pork with herbs and cha muang leaves). Other branch: Thonglor (02-714-7508). 28 Sathorn Soi 10, 02-635-0349. BTS Chong Nonsi. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30-11:30pm.

PIZZA MASSILIA

SUPANNIGA EATING ROOM

SOUL FOOD MAHANAKORN

Thought of as a “Thai-style izakaya” by owner Jarrett Wrisley, this perennially popular Thai hotspot does Thai street food with thoughtful, arty flourishes: think housemade watermelon rind pickles with the Hat Yai-style fried chicken, or a smoky bacon garnish on the grilled eggplant salad. Specials, written up on a chalkboard on the ground floor, change on a regular basis and the cocktails are potent and tasty.

Peppina The original branch of this rapidly expanding pizzeria aims high: it wants to be the purveyor of the most authentic Neapolitan pizza in Bangkok, and recently proved itself when it received official certification from the Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana in Naples. The inviting, well-polished space is just as suited to a beer and pizza as a multi-course feast of pastas, sharing steaks and wine. Other branches: Tha Maharaj, 02-0241330; The Commons; The Crystal Veranda, 092402-8012.

SOUL FOOD MAHANAKORN

56/10 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-714-7708. Open daily 5:30pm-midnight. BTS Thong Lo

27/1 Sukhumvit Soi 33, 02-119-7677. Open daily 11am-3pm, 6:30-11pm

Pizza Massilia This glitzy pizza restaurant modeled after a grand French apartment comes with a difference: the menu makes the occasional reference to the French coastal city of Marseille on top of its classic Italian fare. The pizzas are the stars of the show, however, whether it’s a simple combination of creamy Salerno buffalo mozzarella, basil and extra virgin olive oil, or one of the restaurant’s more creative offerings, like the Japanese sea urchin pizza. 15/1 Soi Ruam Rudi, Phloen Chit Rd., 02-6515091. Open daily 5-11:30pm. BTS Phloen Chit

Pizza Pala Romana The near-subterranean views and uncomfortable bar-stool seating do nothing to put people off the delicious, Roman-style, meter-long pizza slabs that come out of Pala’s kitchen. The 72-hourcured dough results in a thick, bread-like crust bursting with flavor, while the sharp, perfectly seasoned tomato sauce is a thing of beauty. With pastas, salads and othe simple Italian delicacies rounding out the menu, Pala puts a lot of competitors to shame. Room #1, MRT Sukhumvit Station, 02-2591228-9. Open Mon-Sat 10am-11pm; Sun 11am11pm. BTS Asok

Sfizio Friendly, well priced and unpretentious, this pizzeria is a hit with the local Italian crowd. In its simplest margherita form, the pizza competes on the same, fluffy, charred-crust footing as Peppina, while the menu of other rustic Italian pleasures, from wild boar ragout to artichoke and crispy pig salads, are equally delightful. 44/4 Sukhumvit Soi 21 (Asoke), 02-262-0405. MRT Sukhumvit. Open Tue-Fri 11:30am-4pm; Tue-Sun 6-10:30pm.

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SHOPS+SERVICES NEW

SWIMMY

You’ll find nothing but Thai design at this minimal, multi-label store on Ekkamai that pulls together emerging brands from Facebook, Instagram and Chatuchak Market, as well as fashion finds from Chiang Mai. Products are simple and sophisticated, for example the elegant linen tops of local brand Makers Gonna Make—every bit the vision of crisp, natural-fabric gorgeousness. The items are wonderfully priced, too, making this a comfortable alternative to a sweaty trek to Chatuchak or Siam Square. 32 Ekkamai Soi 12, 099-183-4183. Open daily 10am-7pm. www.swimmy-thai.com

Hot Spots

CONTEMPORARY THAI CRAFT

3 GOOD DESIGN STORE

GOOD DESIGN STORE

The Japan Institute for Design Promotion (JDP) has teamed up with a local gallerist to create this boutique dedicated to award-winning design from Japan. The space looks as much like an art gallery as it does a shop, with products carefully displayed alongside explanatory notes. Aside from pieces from iconic Japanese designers, you’ll find plenty of G Mark-awarded Thai designs, too. 4/F, Central Embassy, 1031 Phloen Chit Rd., 02-160-5686. BTS Phloen Chit. www.fb.com/gooddesignstorebkk

CONE NUMBER 9/KASA’ MAYA

Crafty ceramics and comfortable indigo cotton-wear are the go-to pieces at this store at River City riverside mall. The collaboration between two local brands—Cone Number 9 (ceramics) and Kasa’ Maya (indigo-wear)—sees them share an as-yet unnamed space for the collection of dreamy designs in charmingly imperfect patterns. Clothing includes raffles shorts and reversible bags, while ceramic highlights include the unique, handmade 7-ounce cup and coffee dripper.

ANYROOM

Owned by local starchitect Duangrit Bunnag, this trendy furniture and design store finds its home in the leafy grounds of a riverside compound that also consists of restaurants, a bookshop, a gallery and a cafe. The furniture follows a minimal, sleek style using natural materials including old wood and stone, carved into one-ofa-kind pieces that range from sofas to chandeliers to candleholders. The Jam Factory, 41/4, Charoen Nakorn Rd., 02-8610955

THE WONDER ROOM

This little gem in Siam Center shopping mall specializes in all kinds of super-cool Thai designer items. Some of our favorites come from Found by Trimode, whose head designer, Pirada Senivong na Ayudhya, travels to various provinces around Thailand to help contemporize traditional products. Highlights include Doipui, a modern redesign of a traditional Hmong embroidered hat and Nong Bua Daeng, hand-woven cotton hats and totes colored with natural indigo and ebony dyes.

OBJECT OF DESIGN STORE (O.D.S)

You’d have to look long and hard to find better contemporary Thai design than the beautiful pieces at this studio. Straying from the other imported big brand names at this shopping mall, ODS focuses on affordable home decor pieces, jewelry and other accessories from breakthrough Thai names including the Demark Award-winning labels Trimode and Plural Designs, ceramics from Yarnnakarn Art & Craft Studio, and pop art-inspired furniture from 56th Studio and Cast. Other up-and-coming names to look out for include Sur (table lamps), R.Noo Studio, Ce’halo (ceramics) and Patapian (wooden home decor). 3/F, Siam Discovery, Rama 1 Rd. BTS Siam

Y SPOTLIGHT

3/F, Siam Center (next to Something Boudoir), Rama 1 Rd., 02- 658-1098. BTS Siam

ANOTHER STORY This concept store gathers designer product from all over the world with a heavy focus on stationery and home decor. Along with international tech, fashion and design brands, there are also plenty of Thai names (Gray Ray, Labrador and Midori) as well as cute home decor pieces (look out for Plural Design, PDM Brand, Karv Design and Alltag). The huge space also has a deli with some to-die-for food.

1/F, River City Shopping Complex, 23 Trok Rongnamkaeng, Yoda Rd. www.fb.com/conenumber9, www. fb.com/kasamayabkk THE WONDER ROOM

4/F, The Emquartier, Helix Building, Sukhumvit Rd., 02003-6138/9. BTS Phrom Phong. Open daily 10am-10pm.

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HEALTH + WELLNESS

ABSOLUTE FIT FOOD NEW

One of the pioneers of the much-hyped clean-eating scene, this food arm of the Absolute wellness empire (also known for their yoga and Pilates studios) offers low-calorie recipes that they say are high in nutrients while free of chemicals, trans fats, artificial coloring and refined sugars. At its kiosk in hip new mall The Commons, expect rotating dishes ready for both dine-in and to-go including the superfood-heavy spicy zucchini quinoa salad and green curry quinoa risotto. G/F, The Commons, Thonglor Soi 17, 091-8720885. Open Mon-Thu 9am-9pm; Fri-Sun 9am10pm. www.absolutefitfood.com

Hot Spots BEST GOLF COURSES

LE MERIDIEN SUVARNABHUMI

Just a short taxi ride from Suvarnabhumi International Airport, Bangkok’s Golf Resort & Spa, situated in the Summit Windmill Golf Club, has both day and night golf courses, elegant guest rooms and various leisure facilities including exclusive access to the clubhouse, spa and pool. There are also plenty of restaurants: try Favola for Italian and Latitude 13° 39’ for evening drinks.

ALPINE GOLF CLUB

Since opening in 1996, the golf club, designed by legendary American golf course architect Ron M. Garl, has hosted many important international golf tournaments. It was even the spot of Tiger Woods’ Asian Tour win in 2000. Plenty of other sports are on offer thanks to a swimming pool, fitness facilities and an aerobics center at the clubhouse. There’s also a sauna and Jacuzzi. 99 M.9 Bangkhan-Sathaneevithayu Rd., Klong 5, 02-5773333. Open Tue-Sun 6am-8pm (closed on Mon except public holidays). www.alpinegolfclub.com

THANA CITY GOLF AND SPORTS CLUB

789 M.14, Bangna-Trad Rd., Km 10.5, Bangplee, 02-1187777 (Le Meridien Suvarnabhumi), 02-750-2112 (Summit Windmill Golf Club). Day golf open daily 6am-5pm; night golf open Tue-Fri 4pm-midnight; Sat-Sun 5:30-midnight. www.lemeridiensuvarnabhumi.com

THAI COUNTRY CLUB

Managed by Peninsula Hotels, this 7,157yard course is known for its excellent service. The course was designed by Dennis Griffiths under US PGA international standards. And has regularly been voted Asia’s Top Course by Asian Golf magazine. 88 M.1, Bangna-Trad Rd., Km 35.5, 038-570-234. Open Tue-Sun (closed on Mon except Public Holidays) 6am9pm. www.thaicountryclub.com

Y SPOTLIGHT

ROYAL GOLF AND COUNTRY CLUB

Located close to the International Airport, it is easily accessed through the Motorway (BangkokChonburi). This scenic golf and country club with trees and lakes spread throughout, is known as one of Thailand’s challenging golf courses with many water hazard holes. The signature ‘Mickey Mouse’ hole (par 4 hole 16) is so dubbed due to its resemblance to the wellknown Disney Character. 69 M.7, Tambon Rd., Sisa Chorakhe Noi, Bang Sao Thong, 02-738-1010. Opens Mon-Sun 6am-6pm

Wat Pho

Right on the flight path of Suvarnabhumi Airport, Thana City Golf and Country offers a challenging course dotted with bunkers, lakes and streams. There’s a special Monday golf course (B1,650 including caddy). The attached Sports Club features swimming pools, fitness, tennis, badminton, table tennis, squash and a kid’s zone which makes it a place where family can enjoy activities together.

Located next to the Grand Palace, this is one of the oldest temples in Bangkok, home to the 43-meter-long reclining Buddha and credited as the birthplace of Thai massage. The temple massage school still runs today, meaning visitors can get some of the most authentic massage anywhere in the city. They also run short courses for anyone who’d like to learn for themselves.

100/2 M.4 Bangna-Trad Highway, Bangchalong, 02-3361968. Open daily 5:30am-6pm (Golf Club), 6am-10pm (Sports Club). www.thanacitygolf.com

Sanam Chai Rd., 02-255-4771. Open daily 8am-6pm ROYAL GOLF AND COUNTRY CLUB

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ATTRACTIONS NEW

ESCAPE BREAK

Real-life escape rooms that require you and your team solve logic puzzles are trending globally, and this just may be Bangkok’s biggest. Escape Break already has branches on Koh Samui and in Siem Reap, Cambodia, but this is its flagship. There are four different game scenarios— Outbreak, Relic Rush, Ghost Ship and Kowloon Captive—each for 2-7 players who are locked inside a room and have to solve puzzles to make their way out within an hour, aided by clues from the Escape Master. Walk-ins are welcome but you can also book in advance at escapebreak. com/bangkok. 3/F, 281/19-23 Silom Soi 1, 02-6311-668. Open daily 11am-9pm. BTS Sala Daeng

Hot Spots TOP THAI HERITAGE SITES

JIM THOMPSON HOUSE & ART CENTER

The former home of CIA agent and savior of Thai silk, Jim Thompson, is a beautifully preserved complex of six traditional Thai-style houses from all over the country, containing his art and antique collection of sculptures, paintings and porcelain. There is also an exhibition space, restaurant and shop.

VIMANMEK

First-time visitors will most likely already be in awe of the beautiful garden inside the palace gates, but step inside the colossal mansion and you’ll realize you can easily spend a whole day here, walking around the 31 exhibition rooms and taking in some of Thailand’s most prized photographs and artifacts, as well as King Rama V’s personal belongings ranging from elegant antique furniture to rare foreign memorabilia. But it isn’t just the museum’s displays that will catch your eye—the gorgeous teak structure itself boasts a great deal of turn-of-thecentury charm. 16 Ratchawithi Rd., 02-628-6300. Open Tue-Sun 9:30am-3pm

SUAN PAKKAD

Opened to the public in 1952 by its former royal residents, this complex of eight Thai-style houses was Thailand’s first public museum. It showcases sculptures, furniture and traditional instruments from the Rama V period that belonged to Prince and Princess Chumbhot of Nagara Svarga, as well as artifacts from the collection of King Chulalongkorn’s son. 352-354 Sri Ayutthaya Rd., 02-246-1775-6 ext 229. Open daily 9am-4pm

Y SPOTLIGHT

Jim Thompson House, Soi Kasem San 2, Rama 1 Rd., 02216-7368. Open daily 9am-6pm. BTS National Stadium

QUEEN SIRIKIT MUSEUM OF TEXTILES

Located right next to the Grand Palace, this museum tells the story of how HM Queen Sirikit has helped turn Thai silk from a simple local handicraft into a key export and an icon of Thailand. Highlights include the queen’s personal dresses and ornate costumes by leading international designers. Entry fee is included in the Grand Palace fee. If you only want to visit this museum, it’s B150 per person for adults.

Inside the main visitor’s gate at the Grand Palace, Na Phra Lan Rd., 02-225-9430. Open daily 9am-3:30pm

NATIONAL MUSEUM

Formerly the viceroy’s palace, the National Museum is a must-see complex of traditional Thai structures. The front hall itself is highlighted by a monumental Buddha head from the Ayutthaya period that overlooks the whole exhibition space, while a stunningly graceful bronze Bodhisattva from the Srivijaya period takes center stage amid Khmer and Hindu sculptures. You’ll also find carefully kept smaller pieces ranging from Buddhist art to delicate Rattanakosin-era puppets. 4 Na Phra That Rd., 02 224-1404, 02-224-1333. Open Tue-Sun 9am-4pm

Embassy Cineplex Sit back in a cocoon-style first-class airplane pod equipped with its own mini-fridge and enjoy the latest blockbusters projected on state-of-the-art screens aided by the latest sound technology. The complex has a total of five theaters, with other screens equipped with luxurious daybeds and giant sofas. Be sure to check the official website for tickets and showtimes. 6/F, Central Embassy, 1030 Phloen Chit Rd. 02-160-5999. BTS Phloen Chit. www.embassycineplex.com

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ART

YENAKART VILLA

One of Bangkok's most striking private galleries: a modernist, multi-purpose space that hosts monthly exhibitions from both local and visiting international artists. The building's soaring ceilings, expansive glass and crisp white facade are as beautiful as the artwork. Since opening, it's become something of a meeting point for artists, critics and collectors thanks to regular private events, but the rest of us can visit too— if we make an appointment. 69 Soi Prasat Suk, Yen Akat Rd., 02-235-9800. www.fb.com/yenakartvilla

Hot Spots TOP EXHIBITIONS THIS MONTH

NACHT WALLEN

Photographer Ralph Tooten captures the various states of the ocean using low light photography to a reveal a different perspective than what can be seen with the human eye.

Y SPOTLIGHT

Through Oct 2, RMA Institute, Room 238, 238 Sukhumvit Soi 22, 02-663-0809

LAB/ART

An interactive digital art exhibition that combines technology with human interaction to play with light, shadow and reflections. Sep 8–Oct 8, Tadu Contemporary Art, Sukhumvit Soi 87

NAKORN CHAI SI

NAKHON CHAI SI: STILLS FROM A DAYDREAM ROAD MOVIE

Photographer Lee Wei Swee captures scenes he came across during car journeys through Nakhon Pathom, ranging from couples kissing at traffic lights to eccentrically decorated trucks. UNTRUE BLUE

UNTRUE BLUE

Young photographer Muangthai Jirawongnirandon’s first solo exhibition presents a personal examination of Thailand’s class roles as seen through people’s daily lives.

Through Sep 16, Jam, 41 Charoen Rat Soi 1, 0835451-833

Through Sep 10, 3rd Rock Gallery, Rama 9 Soi 41, 084-506-116

(IN)TERRITORIES/RITUALS

French artists Alexandre Lavet and Thomas Merret collaborate with Thai artist Ruangsak Anuwatwimon in this group exhibition featuring a series of photographs that explore the state of being in between spaces. Through Sep 23, Tars Gallery, 10/3 Soi Srijun, Sukhumvit Soi 67, 099-736-8672

Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BACC) Set in the bustling area across the road from Siam Square and MBK, the city's foremost art center lacks a permanent collection but hosts temporary contemporary art exhibitions across its nine floors. They can vary wildly in quality, but regularly offer glimpses of the country's best privately-held contemporary art collections. The center also contains small, design-centric stores, ranging from cafes and restaurants to book shops, and a movie theatre on its top floor. 939 Rama 1 Rd., 02-214-6630-8. Open Tue-Sun 10am9pm. BTS National Stadium

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NAVIGATE

Lat Phrao ÅÒ´¾ÃŒÒÇ

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FIND OUT THE LATEST NEWS ON THAILAND AT WWW.WHERETHAILAND.COM AND FACEBOOK.COM/WHERETHAILAND

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GUIDE

NAVIGATE

Essential Tips TRANSPORTATION & MONEY AIRPORT LINK

TUK-TUKS

BANKING HOURS

The Airport Rail Link (ARL) is one of the fastest and cheapest ways to get to and from Suvarnabhumi Airport, especially for those traveling light. There are two types of train: Express Line and City Line. The ARL Express Line runs from Suvarnabhumi Airport to either Phaya Thai (connecting to the BTS) or Makkasan stations (10-minute walk to MRT Petchaburi), and takes 20 minutes. The City Line stops at six stations and takes around 40 minutes. Thai Airways passengers boarding the Express Line can check in their bags at Makkasan station. One-way fares are B90 for City Line and B150 for the Express Line. More information at www.srtet.co.th/en

Tuk-tuks are a noisy but fun way of getting around Bangkok, not to mention great photo opportunities. However, they are no guarantee of beating the infamous traffic and you should agree on a price before getting in. Haggle hard but be wary of any cheap offers if you don’t want an unexpected trip to a tailor or gem store.

Banking hours are generally from 8:30am-3:30pm, Monday through Friday except on public holidays and bank holidays. Banks in malls open daily, 10am-8pm.

TAXIS In Bangkok metered taxis are readily available and very affordable, with fares starting from B35 for the first two kilometers. Despite their many colors, there’s no difference in prices and service. Some drivers speak limited English, so do get your destination written down in Thai to avoid any miscommunication. Taxis sometimes try to negotiate a price. Make sure to only pay the metered price. There are now also a number of mobile phone applications and services for those who want to hail a cab without having to hit the streets. The two main apps are Grab Taxi (grabtaxi.com/bangkok-thailand) and Uber (www.uber.com/cities/bangkok).

ATMs are very common in Bangkok and can be found in most areas of Thailand, often located outside 7-Eleven stores. You should easily be able to use overseas cards to withdraw money.

VAT REFUNDS Visitors to Thailand who make purchases of goods valued B5,000 or over from stores displaying the “VAT REFUND FOR TOURISTS” sign are eligible to receive a refund of the VAT paid on the item. At the time you purchase the item present your passport and ask the sales assistant at the store to complete the VAT Refund Application for Tourists form, attaching the original tax invoices to the form. Then at the airport, and before you check-in, present your goods and the refund form to customs officers. After checkin and immigration, proceed to the VAT Refund Office in the departure lounge. Refund amounts under B30,000 will be made in cash (Thai Baht) or by bank draft or credited to your credit card account. Refunds over B30,000 will be made by bank draft or credited to your credit card account.

SKYTRAIN/UNDERGROUND The BTS skytrain stops at Bangkok’s main districts and gives you a bird’s eye view of the city. There are two main lines: the Silom line, which runs from across the river in Bang Wa to National Stadium next to MBK Shopping Centre; and the Sukhumvit line, which runs from Soi Bearing in the eastern part of the city along Sukhumvit before heading up north to Mo Chit station by the Chatuchak Market. Siam is the interchange station between the two lines. Fares are B15-52. Unlimited day passes are B130. The underground, or MRT, is one line but has an extensive reach, from Hua Lamphong train station on the outskirts of Chinatown, down through the main Central Business District before turning North and heading up Ratchadapisek Road past Chatuchak Market and ending at Bang Sue station. Fares are B16-B40. There are three interchange stations: (1) BTS Asoke—MRT Sukhumvit, (2) BTS Sala Daeng— MRT Silom and (3) BTS Mo Chit—MRT Chatuchak. Tickets can be bought for individual journeys, or you can get special one-day tourist passes or tickets that cover a specified number of trips. For more information, go to www.bts.co.th and www. bangkokmetro.co.th. Note that the BTS and MRT use different ticketing systems.

ATMS

TUK-TUKS

CANAL BOATS While Bangkok used to be the Venice of the East, there is now only really one canal (Klong) still used as a means of getting around, Klong Saen Saep has a ferry service that runs daily from Bang Kapi in the Eastern suburbs to Phu Khao Thong or the Golden Mount in the heart of the Old Town (Rattanakosin Island), stopping off at various piers along the way. Be warned though, the boats don’t wait long at the piers, making getting on and off rather nerve-wracking (and physically challenging). And, due to the unsavory nature of the canal water, any picturesque view is blocked by sheets of tarpaulin to prevent splashing. Fares are B9-B120

EXPRESS RIVER BOATS These fast and frequent ferries along the Chao Phraya River are a great way to get a different perspective on the city, as well as a good option for getting to many of the temples and palaces built along the river. The main Sathorn (Central) pier is located by BTS Saphan Taksin with boats heading upstream from here and stopping off at numerous piers all the way to Nonthaburi. Fares range from B15-B42 depending on distance. You can also opt for a tourist ticket (B150), which allows one-day unlimited travel and comes with a guide booklet to some of the leading tourist attractions accessible from the river. From Sathorn (Central) Pier, you can also catch free ferries to many riverside hotels and Asiatique.

ESSENTIAL NUMBERS 1 EMERGENCY SERVICES (FIRE BRIGADE, POLICE) 191 2 AIRPORT RAIL LINK 02-308-5600. airportraillink.railway.co.th 3 BANGKOK MASS TRANSIT SYSTEM (BTS) 02-617 6000 (daily 6am-midnight). www.bts.co.th 4 BTS TOURIST INFORMATION CENTER 02-617-7340-1 (daily: 8am-8pm). www.bts.co.th 5 BANGKOK METRO (MRT) 02-624-5200 (daily 6am-midnight). www.bangkokmetro.co.th 6 CHAO PHRAYA EXPRESS BOAT CALL CENTER 02-623-6001-3 (6am-7pm). www.chaophrayaexpressboat.com 7 SUVARNABHUMI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT 02-132-1888. www.suvarnabhumiairport.com 8 TOURISM AUTHORITY OF THAILAND (TAT) 1672 from Thai numbers. www.tourismthailand.org 9 TOURIST POLICE 24-HOUR CALL CENTER 1155 from Thai numbers or 02-250-5500 SEP T EMBER 2016 I W HERE THA ILA N D 33

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21 THINGS WE LOVE about Bangkok

!0 1 Tucking into a hand-crafted pizza at Pizza Pala Romana, an authentic pizzeria that serves up 72-hour-cured dough with a thick, bread-like crust. See page 27.

6 Unwinding from a long day with a light jog at the city’s scenic and centrally located Lumpini Park. See page 7.

6 !2 Sampling molecular Indian dishes !7 Taking a relaxing yet educational at Gaggan, Asia’s no.1 restaurant according to World’s 50 Best Restaurants for the second year running. See page 25.

day cruise from Bangkok with Thanatharee cruises to explore Ayutthaya, Thailand’s former capital. See page 7.

7 Checking out cutting-edge Thai !8 Tucking into Isaan-style street food 2 Cycling around Bang Krachao, home decor products at Room Con- !3 Admiring the work of established in a modern shop-house setting at also known as Bangkok’s green lung, a huge area of undeveloped forest on the fringe of the city. See page 6.

cept Store, a multi-label lifestyle shop inside the luxurious Central Embassy. See page 28.

and emerging Thai and international artists at the Bangkok Art and Culture Centre. See page 6.

Somtum Der, whose sister branch in New York has earned itself a Michelin star. See page 27.

3 Admiring the stunning pieces of Buddhist art displayed in the National Museum, one of Bangkok’s most charming sites built with Rattanakosin architecture in 1782. See page 6.

8 Sipping on the barrel-aged cocktails at Bangkok’s oldest jazz institution, Bamboo Bar. See page 24.

!4 Stocking up on elegant silks, scarves and neckties at Jim Thompson House, Thailand’s pioneering Thai silk brand. See page 28.

!9 Escaping the city to Koh Samui,

4 Descending the steps to Maggie Choo’s, the sultry Silom night spot styled on Shanghai opium dens. See page 24.

9 Tasting the inventive, five-course tasting menu at Le Du, one of our favorite kitchens in town that mixes modern techniques with bold Asian flavors. See page 25.

known for its high-end resorts, happening party scene and delicious seafood restaurants. See page 14.

!5 Enjoying a hearty meal at Supanni- @0 Picking out one-of-a-kind decor ga Eating Room, a restaurant specializing in traditional Eastern and Northeastern Thai dishes. See page 25.

items from Anyroom at one of the city’s trendiest riverside complexes. See page 28.

!0 Sipping on a ya dong cocktail while !6 Indulging in an afternoon of tea @1 Sipping on a cocktail or two at 5 Sipping on a potent cocktail at listening to traditional Thai music in drinking at Peace Oriental Tea House, Australian-hailing Mexican restaurant Soul Food Mahanakorn, one of our favorite eateries serving authentic regional Thai food. See page 27.

Bangkok’s Old Town at Tep Bar. See page 24.

a cafe that brews up leaves from Thailand, Japan, China and Taiwan. See page 7.

and bar Touche Hombre, which is known for its cool vibe, easy eats and serious booze. See page 24.

!1 Playing a round of golf at the Thai Country Club with a group of friends. See page 30.

where in the world Where is an international network of magazines first published in 1936 and distributed in 4,000 leading hotels in more than 50 places around the world. Look for us when you visit any of the following cities, or plan ahead for your next trip by visiting us online at wheretraveler.com ASIA Thailand, Singapore, Hong Kong

UNITED STATES Alaska & Yukon, Atlanta, Baltimore, Boston, Charleston, Charlotte, Chicago, Dallas, Georgia, Indianapolis, Las Vegas, Los Angeles, Maui, Minneapolis/St. Paul, New Orleans, New York, Northern Virginia, Oahu, Orange County (CA), Orlando, Philadelphia, Phoenix/Scottsdale, San Diego, San Francisco, Seattle, South Florida, St. Louis, Washington D.C.

CANADA Calgary, Canadian Rockies, Edmonton, Halifax, Mississauga, Muskoka/Parry Sound, Ottawa, Toronto, Vancouver, Victoria, Whistler, Winnipeg EUROPE Budapest, London, Milan, Moscow, Paris, Rome, St. Petersburg

34 W H E R E T H AILAND I S EPTEMB ER 2 0 1 6

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WHERE DISTRIBUTION LIST_September_2016.indd 35

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