Latest Issue: LSU Preview—September 2021 by Where Y'at Magazine

September 2021

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CONTENTS 28

Food & Drink

Features

September 2021 Publisher/Editor-in-Chief: Josh Danzig Creative Director: Robert Witkowski

A Day in the Life: A 9/11 Restrospective

The Frenchmen's Artists Market Move

Sideline to Sideline: Sportscaster Jen Hale Gives Back to NOLA

Punks With Soul: NOLA’s Gutter Punk Culture Nature Sights to Visit in the Baton Rouge Area CBD Shops to Visit in The Crescent City

Rags to Riches: Hotel Saint Vincent

Meditation Tips

38 41

$20 & Under

Movie Editors: David Vicari, Fritz Esker

Restaurant Guide

Contributing Writers: Kathy Bradshaw, Phil LaMancusa, Debbie Lindsey, Kim Ranjbar, Burke Bischoff, Julie Mitchell, Greg Roques, Celeste Turner, Eliana Blum, Steve Melendez, Michelle Nicholson, Sabrina Stone, Kimmie Tubre, Emily Hingle, Rebecca Fox, Jeff Boudreaux

Bar Guide

Extras

11 12

13 42 42

LSU Preview: Purple & Gold Comeback LSU Schedule

LSU Preview | Where Y'at Magazine

Director of Sales: Stephen Romero Photographers and Designers: Gus Escanelle, Kimmie Tubre, Emily Hingle, Kathy Bradshaw, Robert Witkowski

Tulane Preview: Next Steps Tulane Schedule Tales From the Quarter Po-Boy Views

Interns: Kayla Connor, Monwell Frazier, Madeline Taliancich, Marigny Lanaux, Mary Grace Granito, Shayla Baker, Grant Varner, Gigi Halpern, Olivia Longoria, Jordana Comiter

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Letter from the Publisher Geaux Tigers…and Roll Wave! College football is back, and just in time. Enjoy Andrew Alexander’s previews of both LSU and Tulane as the 2021 season kicks off. Jen Hale is a nationally known sports reporter who has made New Orleans her home. Jen’s non-profit Sideline Pass organization has done fantastic work in empowering young women with mentorship and scholarships. Read her interview to learn more about how you can possibly help. Despite the pandemic, New Orleans continues add more hotels like the Four Seasons and Virgin Hotels New Orleans. Kim Ranjbar takes a look at the new Hotel St. Vincent and the incredible restoration work that was done. Other highlights in this issue include Sabrina Stone’s profile of the Frenchmen Artist’s Market, Kimmie Tubre’s rundown of local CBD stores, and Grant Varner’s look at our beloved local gutter punk culture. Enjoy! –Josh Danzig, Publisher

Cover Photo: TV Sportscaster Jen Hale at Tulane's Yulman Stadium, founder of Sideline Pass, photographed by Romney Caruso

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PHOTOS, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: ADOBE STOCK; LSU/ TAMMY ANTHONY BAKER; HOTEL SAINT VINCENT / NICK SIMONITE; SUPERIOR SEAFOOD / KIM RANJBAR; WHERE Y'AT STAFF PHOTO

Executive Editor: Burke Bischoff

SIDELINE TO SIDELINE

Jen Hale Covers the NFL, NBA, and the Future of Young Women in New Orleans By Andrew Alexander

TV sportscaster Jen Hale is also the founder of Sideline Pass. 6

LSU Preview | Where Y'at Magazine

Born in New Orleans, and raised in Mobile, Alabama, Hale entered LSU with dreams of becoming a lawyer, until she caught the journalism bug. Hale joined LSU’s student television station, Tiger TV, serving as a political analyst during a gubernatorial election. She fell in love with reporting and broadcast journalism and promptly switched her major. “It was such an intriguing career as opposed to spending most of my time behind a desk, to be out and about where the action was, telling stories, and telling stories accurately,” Hale said. After graduate school at Northwestern University, Hale began her career in Monroe, Louisiana, with subsequent stops in Baton Rouge and Birmingham, where she landed a role freelancing for MSNBC. Her first foray onto the national broadcasting scene coincided with Hurricane Katrina, her first major assignment. Hale proved to be an asset during the network’s coverage of the devastating event because of her familiarity with New Orleans. Following her assignment covering Hurricane Katrina, WVUE, the FOX-affiliate in New Orleans, offered her a morning anchor position. Wanting to be part of the city’s rebuilding process, Hale leapt at the opportunity, which would turn out to be a major inflection point in her career. “I’ve always loved sports,” Hale recalled. “I’m the first born and my poor daddy didn’t know what to do with a girl. We talked fixing things and sports and traditional guy things. I probably knew about first downs, touchdowns, and penalties before I ever played with my princess doll.” While working for WVUE, she was approached by friends from her LSU days who had become leaders in the athletic department. Her colleagues were trying to zhuzh up the LSU athletics website with enhanced digital content, and knowing her rabid fandom for LSU football, offered the former LSU cheerleader a gig interviewing alumni and guest celebrities on the sidelines during games. Jen Hale, sideline sports reporter, was born. “I never thought of (sports reporting) as a career path,” Hale said. “I always thought of it as more of a hobby, a passion.” WVUE was impressed by her Saturday hobby interviewing LSU dignitaries and sent her to cover morning practices for Saints training camp following her morning anchor responsibilities. While covering the Saints, she was recommended by people inside the franchise as a candidate to join the NFL on FOX. “Ironically, it’s the easiest job I’ve ever gotten,” Hale said. “I never applied for it, they offered it to me. I almost hate telling that story because anyone in media has war stories about stalking news directors in parking lots to hand off their resume, and I did plenty of that, but this just worked out that way.” In 2011, Hale began her first season with the NFL on FOX, launching her into a new stratosphere of the sports

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Jen Hale didn’t always know she wanted to be a sports journalist, but we’re sure glad she is.

THE SPIRIT OF THE GAME

FOLLOW FOR GIVEAWAYS, COCKTAILS AND TAILGATING TIPS

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journalism profession. A year later she joined the New Orleans Hornets (now Pelicans) as the team’s sideline reporter in Anthony Davis’s rookie season. The Bensons had just purchased the team and were looking to refresh everything about the franchise. Familiar with the Bensons through her previous work with Saints, Hale threw her hat in the ring for the sideline reporter role and was offered the position. “It’s been such a fun ride,” Hale said. “You feel like you were there at the beginning to see it grow up, almost like a child, watching it develop and watching the

The fact that the Pelicans are her hometown team, Hale says, only makes the opportunity that much sweeter. JEN’S THOUGHTS As an NFL and NBA sideline reporter, and a rabid LSU football fan, here’s what Jen thinks about the upcoming seasons. On LSU Football: “We’ve got to see a turnaround, obviously. Last year was not anywhere near the follow up to a championship that most of us fans expected. How much of that was COVID? How much of that was championship hangover? I don’t know, but either way,

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you’ve got to shake it off and refocus.” On the Saints: “Obviously there’s some rebuilding at hand because your franchise quarterback is gone. And because of salary cap issues, you had to part with some very talented veterans.” Like the rest of us, Hale is curious how the Jameis Winston experiment at quarterback plays out this season. “Every coach that has had Jameis obviously raves about his talent. You look at that arm, it’s just the accuracy issues. Can Sean Payton and Pete Carmichael be good enough to fix that? Of course, every coach and offensive coordinator thinks that they are. Is that the case?” On the Pelicans: “It’s a win-now situation. A lot of people want to talk about rebuilding–you bring in a new coach, you have a young team, but you’ve got to keep Zion happy. You have to show Zion, in this era of player

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A spirited sanctuary in the

team come to fruition.” Covering two of the country’s four major sports leagues is a dream job for Hale, but each role comes with unique challenges. As a reporter for the NFL on FOX, Hale covers different teams each week, walking over six miles a game, as she roams the sidelines in search of the latest in-game scoop. Her process for NFL reporting is a stark contrast to her work for the Pelicans. During the NFL season, Hale spends countless hours developing and cultivating sources in order to gain inside information for the broadcasts. Since she splits her time between so many NFL teams, Hale puts in the extra effort to stay in touch to keep the relationships alive. When covering the Pelicans, she’s only covering the Pelicans, which helps streamline the process of gathering information. “I’m always with them, at practices, shootarounds, games,” Hale said. “I’m much more ground level, much more of an insider.”

empowerment, that this is a team focused on winning and dedicated to winning.” Hale would love to see more shooting and better wing defense added to New Orleans’s roster before next season. SIDELINE PASS TO SUCCESS Throughout her years covering professional athletes in New Orleans, Hale worked with the charitable foundations of former Saints Jonathan Vilma and Pierre Thomas. After Thomas’s playing career ended in New Orleans, he challenged Hale to start her own foundation and carry the torch of giving back to the community. Although initially

get overlooked. We try to be the gobetween for that.” What started as a toy drive for underprivileged children in New Orleans has evolved into an organization dedicated to serving the needs of elementary through high school aged girls throughout the city. Through the support of several local businesses, Sideline Pass is able help to place academically excellent, but financially disadvantaged, girls into better educational situations. New scholarship applications open on the website in September. “People love New Orleans, and they

Sideline Pass Scholarships Fall 2021 NANCY PARKER MEMORIAL SCHOLARSHIP $2500 college scholarship for a female Greater New Orleans student majoring in journalism, attending a Louisiana college or university (four scholarship awards). NANCY LIEBERMAN SIDELINE PASS COLLEGE SCHOLARSHIP $10,000 college scholarship awarded to a female New Orleans high school senior who excels both academically and athletically, who also demonstrates financial need. MIA COLSTON SIDELINE PASS SCHOLARSHIP $5000 middle or high school scholarship awarded to a female New Orleans student who excels academically and demonstrates financial need.

hesitant to undertake such an endeavor on her own, Thomas convinced her by pledging the money he had raised in New Orleans to her new organization. In 2015, Hale founded Sideline Pass, an organization dedicated to educating and empowering young women through both classroom seminars and community outreaches. Sideline Pass provides mentorship, scholarships and practical, educational opportunities for young women in the New Orleans area, including something as simple as taking girls in group foster care homes on a field trip to a bank to learn about financial savviness. “For the girls in the group foster care homes, they’re our special little sisters,” Hales said. “The state does a great job of taking care of the basics, but we’ve found that they miss so much not having parents on the ground to talk to them about things like finances, when to apply for college scholarships and financial aid, those little things that

want to be part of something,” Hale said. “The more we do, the more we get calls from the community, and our friends, offering ways they can help.” Hale’s been inspired by the community collaboration to help the organization grow and maximize the support for the girls of New Orleans. From former Saints’ players to private citizens, Sideline Pass has received help in all shapes and sizes. “It has just gotten better every year,” Hale said. “It’s an organization where there are no ‘have-tos,’ no ‘musts.’ It’s for the community.” As a former member of the board of directors for Son of a Saint, a local nonprofit benefitting fatherless boys, Hale hopes her organization can continue to have the same lasting impact. “We’re not nearly to the level of Son of a Saint, but that’s our goal.” To learn more about scholarships or how to get involved with Sideline Pass, visit SidelinePass.org.

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PURPLE & GOLD COMEBACK How Does LSU Rebound from its Worst Season this Century?

By Andrew Alexander

After a magical national title run in 2019, last season was the year from hell for LSU football. The Tigers lost a slew of talent heading into 2020, including Heisman Trophy winning quarterback Joe Burrow, 13 other NFL draft picks, wunderkind passing game coordinator Joe Brady and defensive coordinator Dave Aranda. Combine the personnel losses with a pandemic, ensuing player opt-outs, limited practice for an inexperienced team with new coordinators, and an injury to the starting quarterback in the third game, and 2020 was a recipe for disaster for LSU football. The result was the first non-winning season this century for the program, as the Tigers finished 5-5. How does LSU bounce back in 2021? Coach Ed Orgeron hired new coordinators on both sides of the ball. The Tigers’ new offensive 1-2 punch hail from the Joe Brady coaching tree. New offensive coordinator Jake Peetz last served under Brady as the Carolina Panthers quarterbacks coach, and new passing game coordinator DJ Mangas served as an offensive assistant to Brady in Carolina and worked as an offensive analyst under Brady in 2019 at LSU. Defensively, LSU hired former Minnesota Vikings defensive backs coach Daronte Jones to lead that unit. It’s the hope of Orgeron (and every Tiger fan) that a strong core of returning starters and the new hire infusion will catapult LSU back into the upper echelon of college football. OFFENSE: IS MAX JOHNSON READY? LSU utilized three starting quarterbacks last season, none of whom had ever started a game.

LSU Preview | Where Y'at Magazine

After redshirt junior Myles Brennan suffered a season ending injury in the third game of the season, the Tigers were forced to start two true freshmen for 70% of the year. Max Johnson led LSU to back-to-back victories to end the season, creating a bonafide quarterback battle heading into the offseason. The quarterback controversy ended earlier this summer when Brennan suffered a broken arm, sidelining him for a significant portion of the upcoming season. Johnson now takes the reins as LSU’s starting quarterback, with true freshman Garrett Nussmeier assuming the backup role until Brennan is healed. Though LSU has produced very few amazing quarterbacks in the last two decades, Tiger fans were accustomed to their mediocre quarterbacks being at least durable. After witnessing the toughness and talent of Joe Burrow, LSU received a reality check last season, experiencing firsthand what it’s like when QB1 goes down, and there’s no adequate replacement. The position is, once again, very thin. Johnson, a sophomore, led LSU to a pair of victories over Florida and Ole Miss to close out the 2020 campaign, and seemed poised to potentially win the starting position outright, even before Brennan’s injury. Appearing in six games last season, Johnson threw for eight touchdowns, over 1,000 yards, and only one interception. He added two rushing touchdowns against Florida. LSU has droves of talent at the skill positions. Sophomore wide receiver Kayshon Boutte broke out last season and should carry the torch as the next great LSU pass catcher. He’s joined by a supporting cast that includes mostly unproductive upperclassmen and unproven youngsters. Jaray

DEFENSE: IT CAN’T GET ANY WORSE LSU’s defense was an embarrassment last season, and that’s being nice. The Tigers were historically bad on defense, fielding a unit that resembled, at times, a high school junior varsity squad. Even when LSU emerged victorious, its defense still was a liability. Blame it on COVID, opt-outs, or former defensive coordinator Bo Pelini, it doesn’t matter. The performance was atrocious. There are no excuses this year. The Tigers have a new defensive coordinator, were able to have spring practice, and return the bulk of the unit’s starters. The defense boasts the best cornerback tandem in the nation in Derek Stingley and Elias Ricks and has several great options at the safety position. There’s a mixture of veteran leadership and young talent along the defensive line, with returning edge rushers like Andre Anthony, Ali Gaye, and BJ Ojulari, and defensive tackles Glen Logan, Neil Farrell, Jaquelin Roy, and Maason Smith. The linebacking corps has bolstered its presence by adding experienced JUCO and Power Five transfer players like Navonteque Strong and Mike Jones Jr. to go along with returning players Damone Clark and Micah Baskerville. Orgeron has adjusted his coaching staff and continued to recruit premier defensive players. There is no reason for a repeat performance of what took place last season. If the Tigers field another defanged unit, heads will roll. PREDICTION Every Tiger fan wants LSU to “be back,” but will they be able to live up to our lofty standards? If Max Johnson is ready to step up and lead the offense and the new coordinators can recalibrate last year’s dysfunction, then maybe. Every ounce of optimism within me wants to believe LSU will be back in the SEC title hunt this season, but there are just too many question marks to know for certain. LSU: 10-3, Vrbo Citrus Bowl win.

TAMMY ANTHONY BAKER/WIKIMEDIA COMMONS/LSU (2)

Jenkins, Koy Moore, and Trey Palmer are veteran names to watch, but don’t be surprised if one of the five talented freshmen wideouts makes an impact as well. The running game was abysmal last season, but it’s not entirely to blame on the running backs. The offensive line was shaky, and once Brennan went down, opposing defenses didn’t truly have to respect the passing game. Juniors Tyrion Davis-Price and John Emery, however, are better than what their production showed last season. They arrived with grand expectations two seasons ago and were mostly a disappointment last year. LSU always has a deep stable of backs and they used to carry the offensive load before Burrow arrived on campus. The running game must reestablish its dominant identity this season. The key to all the offensive success? The veteran offensive line that returns nearly all its starters. How the line improves from 2020 will dictate how this unit fares this season.

LOUSIA NA STATE UNIVE RSITY 2021 SEASO N SCHED ULE HOME

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SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 4

SATURDAY, OCTOBER 9

SATURDAY, NOVEMBER 13

7:30 PM, FOX

TBD

SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 11

SATURDAY, OCTOBER 16

SATURDAY, NOVEMBER 20

7 PM, SECN+/ESPN+

TBD

SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 18

SATURDAY, OCTOBER 23

SATURDAY, NOVEMBER 27

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Has Tulane Turned a Corner?

By Andrew Alexander

Willie Fritz and Tulane made history last season. In 2020, the Green Wave reached a bowl game for its third consecutive season. Tulane ended up losing the Famous Idaho Potato Bowl, and there are more bowl games now than at any point in college football history, but the achievement is noteworthy, nonetheless. The turnaround Fritz has engineered in his half decade at the helm of the program is impressive. Tulane won six games total in the two years prior to Fritz’s arrival and had been to only two bowl games in the 21st century. Fritz has won at least six games in each of the past three seasons, leading the Green Wave to two bowl wins in the process. Plus, last season could have been even better. Consider this: three of Tulane’s five regular season losses were by one score. The Green Wave blew a 24-point third quarter lead to Navy in September, lost an overtime thriller to Southern Methodist by a field goal in October, then had their hearts shredded the next month in Tulsa when the Golden Hurricane ripped off a 96-yard pick six in double overtime. Talk about some bad beats. Although a daunting non-conference schedule awaits, including games against Oklahoma and Ole Miss, Tulane has new coordinators on both sides of the ball and 15 returning starters, including a sophomore quarterback with a wealth of experience from last season. Fritz’s sixth squad in New Orleans is hungry, but can they contend with the traditional American Athletic Conference powers? OFFENSE: PRATTICAL MAGIC Quarterback Michael Pratt showed immense upside last

LSU Preview | Where Y'at Magazine

season after taking the reins under center during the Green Wave’s third game of the season. Pratt threw for over 1,800 yards and 20 touchdowns, the most by a true freshman last year, and rushed for eight more scores. The rising sophomore has poise and experience, two valuable qualities every coach wants in a quarterback, and a veteran offensive line to keep him upright. Accompanying Pratt in the backfield are a potentially lethal combo of Cam Carroll and Tyjae Spears. Carroll rushed for over 740 yards and 12 touchdowns last season, while Spears returns after a torn ACL in Tulane’s third game derailed his red-hot start to the 2020 season. Utah transfer Devin Brumfield is waiting in the wings as a solid third option. Receivers Jha’Quan Jackson and Duece Watts each snagged 31 receptions, combining for nearly 1,000 yards and 14 touchdowns last year. Jaetavian Toles, Mykel Jones, and Phat Watts also return to bolster the receiving corps. And don’t sleep on tight end Tyrick James, whose 18 receptions was third most on last year’s squad. DEFENSE: BEWARE OF LINEBACKERS Tulane led the conference in both sacks and tackles for loss last season, but new defensive coordinator Chris Hampton has his work cut out for him this year. Hampton is tasked with replacing the production of stud defensive linemen Patrick Johnson and Cam Sample. Jeffery Johnson, Eric Hicks, and Memphis transfer Joseph Dorceus should make up the core of the defensive line, while Adonis Friloux, Alfred

Thomas, and Noah Seiden are expected to be solid contributors. Sophomore Angelo Anderson should make an impact in the front seven, trying to fill the void left by Patrick Johnson. The linebackers are unquestionably the strongest unit of the defense. Dorian Williams and Nick Anderson, the team’s two leading tacklers in 2020, return, as do Kevin Henry, Marvin Moody, and Jesus Machado. Tulane’s defensive Achilles heel most of last season was its secondary, allowing 250 or more passing yards nine times. Larry Brooks and Macon Clark return at safety, combining for five interceptions last year, while Colorado transfer Derrion Rakestraw should be a factor as well. Jaylon Monroe returns as the elder statesman of the cornerbacks, while the opposite corner spot could be occupied by Kansas State transfer Lance Robinson, Alabama transfer DJ Douglas, or Ajani Kerr. PREDICTION Fritz’s squad made history last season, but can they turn the corner and keep ascending? Seven regular season wins are attainable, but Tulane must snag at least two of four non-conference wins and improve in closing out tight games. Pratt’s growth at quarterback is crucial, as is the performance of the new coordinators. If the Green Wave can check those two boxes, Fritz might be able to finally get seven regular season wins and make some noise in the American Athletic Conference. Tulane: 8-5, TicketSmarter Birmingham Bowl win.

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NEXT STEPS After Three Straight Bowl Games,

TULANE 2021 SEASON SCHEDULE AWAY

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SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 4

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A DAY IN THE LIFE

(OR A YEAR AND SOME CHANGE) A 9/11 Retrospective

By Jeff Boudreaux

Twin towers of light represent the loss of the World Trade Center in New York 20 years ago. 14

LSU Preview | Where Y'at Magazine

We soon learned about the Islamic hijackers, how they had entered flight school, and spent their last night on Earth at a strip club. I remember the face of the leader, Mohamed Atta, a Saudi who looked like the Devil incarnate. The terrorists had hijacked four different planes, also hitting the Pentagon and a field in Pennsylvania. That last point of attack was unplanned—the brave souls on United 93 banded together to make sure that the only people who would perish that day were themselves and the villainous attackers. “Let’s Roll” became a rallying cry. I had read about the terrorists being armed with box cutters, and, as a warehouse worker, I told anyone who would listen that I would have acted just as flight 93 had. Was it truthful or just hubris? I, like many other New Orleanians, spent the next few

nights soaking up details of these tragedies. I saw the videos of people jumping to their deaths, chosen as the alternative to being burned alive. We all became New Yorkers. Churches would thrive with record attendances. There was something of a brother’s bond amongst Americans, and political differences became less noticeable. I rallied around President George W. Bush and his retaliative measures against the murderous Taliban in Afghanistan. After all, they were giving sanctuary to the man responsible for the attacks—the leader of Al-Qaeda, Osama Bin Laden. Then things started to break down into division. Oddly, 43 also waged a campaign against Saddam Hussein’s Iraq, which seemed very much like a diversionary tactic. There were so many questions that arose from these decisions, not

WIKIMEDIA COMMONS / DEREK JENSEN

As I drove to work on the morning of September 11, 2001, little did I know the ramifications that would arise from a startling event at 14 minutes before 8 a.m. in New Orleans. Listening to Walton and Johnson in my car, I learned of the Boeing 767, which shockingly hit the North Tower of the World Trade Center. Details were sparse. Some pundits had wondered if it was an accident…perhaps pilot error. Just over 15 minutes later, the situation would become a lot clearer and certainly more severe. A second Boeing passenger plane struck the South Tower. It was then that everyone knew this was an act of terror. Our bewilderment turned to horror when the towers began to fall. My coworkers and I rallied around my desk radio, still listening to the Radio Gawds. Co-host Steve Johnson never once broke character.

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A second plane hits the South Tower at 9:03 a.m.

smartphone and streaming apps. Today, I feel fortunate to pay tribute on Spotify with my “Clear Channel Memorandum” playlist. It’s an unbelievably good collection of music. Yes, this was a confusing time. I entered a banned book phase and purchased a Bantam Classics edition of the Quran just because it was controversial. We saw the degradation of the detainees in Abu Ghraib, where their holy book was flushed down the toilet. Tensions were high. I changed political parties several times to match the politicians that I thought were right and had made the most sense. With the introduction of The Patriot Act, it certainly seemed as if some aspects of our democracy were crumbling right before our eyes. There was an undeniable increase in hatred. We hated Osama Bin Laden and the terrorists that destroyed our way of life. Some hated individuals just because their skin was a similar color to the terrorists. I journeyed to Seattle the following summer with a very good friend of mine, who is of Indian heritage. In the airports, there were people who watched him like a hawk. The newly commissioned TSA stopped him for random baggage checks several times. I had to throw away a bottle of fancy aftershave that exceeded the 3.4 oz. limit for toiletries. We repeated the trip four years later. This time there were no apprehensive looks given towards my friend, and his skin tone never did change. By that time, French fries were

First responders in the aftermath of destruction bread at the grocery store…you get the idea. The Dixie Chicks were demonized for disparaging G.W. onstage and their sales and exposure suffered drastically as a result. In 2020, they quietly renamed themselves The Chicks (and no one cared). Speaking of music, 9/11 changed the way we listened to it. Clear Channel (now iHeartMedia) sent out a “memorandum” advising over 160 songs (plus anything by Rage Against the Machine) not be played on any of their stations. Songs about loss, violence, airplanes, heaven, hell, even Louis Armstrong’s gorgeous “What a Wonderful World” was banned. This was obviously before the days of the

LSU Preview | Where Y'at Magazine

back in style and Iraq’s weapons of mass destruction were still never found. Contrary to the popular meme on social media, we did forget…somewhat. 20 years later, Bin Laden has been dead for a decade and U.S. troops are just now being withdrawn from Afghanistan. Foreign terrorists have been replaced by domestic ones. There often seems to be more hate than ever. With the political landscape, it’s painfully obvious that we won’t be coming together as a country anytime soon. But that short period of brotherhood, in those first few weeks after 9/11, is something I choose to Never Forget.

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the least of which would materialize into a 2004 film (Fahrenheit 9/11) by everyone’s favorite Bush-hater—Michael Moore. Did he really not go after Saudi Arabia because of their abundance of oil and a friendship with the royal family? After all, most of the attackers were from that country. With conservative hosts like the late Rush Limbaugh and Bill O’Reilly, as well as liberal Chris Matthews of MSNBC, cable news became bigger than primetime. NATO-member France publicly refused to become involved in a skirmish that targeted Iraq. In response, some Republican politicians absurdly decided to rename things that were “French.” We were forced to order freedom fries, make freedom toast, pick up a loaf of freedom

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LEARN MORE @ FRENCHMARKET.ORG WhereYat.com | September 2021

One Package By Sabrina Stone

After a decade, sandwiched between bars, jazz clubs, and the wild energy of the 600 block of Frenchmen Street, the Frenchmen Artist’s Market is moving…one block away! 18

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New Orleans is known, worldwide, as a city of the arts. We are the place that you come to fill your soul with swirling colors of paint and music. The Frenchmen Artist’s Market represents the best of us: a place where you can meet artists, enjoy the final products of their work, experience them at work, in process, ask questions, try things on, and take handmade pieces of the city home with you. After losing the lease to their original location, the artists got creative. They came together, brainstormed, fundraised, and did the footwork to set up shop in a new location: Washington Square Park. With a Brigadoon-like magic, this market will come alive after the park usually closes for the evening: fairy lights and all sorts of treasures glowing, warming a previously dark spot in the city. “I’ve been out there for years and I’d say, consistently, that one person a night would tell me this market is their favorite part of

their New Orleans experience, that they always come to the market, every time they visit New Orleans, to see the variety of things that are being made in the city.” –Remy Diamond (C’Mere) “Frenchmen is seen as an entire street to showcase different arts. It gets so many waves of locals and tourists. It’s such a melting pot of those two spaces. I’ve been able to touch so many people with my art, get them to see my view on jewelry making and what it means to me. Having a market here has changed people’s lives.” –Trei Chambers (FoxMoxi) “Being a vendor in the Frenchmen Artist’s Market feels like a gift, to be able to have our artwork out in front of so many people who are excited to see it. It is a really unique setting for a group of artists to be out in the culture of art and music of this place and the magic. There’s people from all over the world coming to visit New Orleans and this is

THE FRENCHMEN ARTIST'S MARKET/CHARLES ANDERSON & SPENCER EPPS

THE FRENCHMEN ARTIST’S MARKET: Community & Art, All in

An artist rendering depicts the Frenchmen Artist's Market in the Marigny's Washington Square Park.

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This historic estate offers a glimpse into life in the 1800’s through the guided tour and the original artwork and artifacts throughout the mansion. 38 acres of the South’s most beautiful gardens surround the estate offering brightly colored florals year round. Restaurants and a boutique Inn are also available for spending the day or night at Houmas House. Save time to visit The Great River Road Museum which explores life along the Mississippi River in the 1800's. 40136 Hwy 942 | Darrow, LA 70725 www.HoumasHouse.com

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didn’t know. You gotta have your community: I learned about business, customer service, how to sell things online, process card payments, build a website—it allowed me to become the entrepreneur that I am; it’s how I started my store.” –Remy Diamond

“The Frenchmen Artist’s Market gave me my start in Joey Hartmannthe United States. It allowed Dow me to bring my product from Southern Africa to here, in a “The amount of times that people sustainable way. It doesn’t just will buy something off of my body and support me. It supports 154 women in then I’ll be like, ‘That was a really good Lesotho who I trained to sew my product. necklace.’ It pushes me to make the next Each one of the vendors that are selling one. I feel like, because my pieces are their original work at the market are one of a kind, I'm constantly in a mood of supporting their families, their thinking, ‘What I can make next?’ networks, their people. That I bring supplies and make little alley probably put jewelry at the booth, so food on the tables of it can be collaborative. many, many families How often do you get to and launched so many meet someone while businesses that also at work? It’s this rare intertwined with so opportunity to get many others. It’s a to talk to an artist deep part of New and learn about Orleans and beyond their process. You’re that.” –Edward purchasing time Wycliff (Bow with someone. You’re Shoeshoe) purchasing something that feels personal.” Trej Chambers “There’s no other market –Trei Chambers like this in America. I’ve been to almost every market “People come through the market that artists can sell their stuff in. You’re who would never, otherwise, see my work. seeing, in the space of an hour, thousands When I first started out, I read business of people walk by your booth. You’re advice that said I had to find a target interacting with hundreds of people a audience, but I couldn’t figure out what night. I used to sell jackets off my back in mine was and my little tagline became ‘Art the middle of the street. I tried markets for Humans.’ The market taught me not here and there, but I was about to to make assumptions about who fold. Someone told me about would like my stuff. It really is the nighttime art market. for everybody. How would we On my first night, I made know though? When would more than I had ever they get the chance to made all of the other ways see it, except out here, in I had tried combined. public?” I quit everything. I’d –Joey Hartmann-Dow sleep during the day so I could paint at night. This “The entire point of my became all I was doing.” business is to create Charles O. –Charles O. Anderson opportunities for people that Anderson (1 of 1 Blazers) need them. When I joined the market, I was catapulted into The Frenchmen Street Artist’s Market a community of about 100 artists has made enormous waves in the arts who were all in a similar vein, able to use community. It’s impacted so many people’s this four-block street to turn our passion lives. New Orleans is one of the few cities projects from hobbies into careers. Having in the world where you can make a living the Artist’s Market here is good for the doing your art, where you’re almost street, good for the city, and good for the expected to dive headlong into your art artists—there is nowhere like it.” and find a support system. For –Edward Wycliff hundreds of vendors, over the years, this market “We have a bunch of really has made that possible. talented artists with It has made artistic really good taste. The dreams into reality. Artist’s Market is not a corporate place. It’s “I learned so an elevated place. much from the I think this sort of camaraderie of market is our best having other artists defense. It offers around me. I had the personal touch been doing my own that people sought out thing on the street for Frenchmen Street for Edward a long time, but there to begin with.” were so many things I –Charles O. Anderson Wycliff

ALL IMAGES: THE FRENCHMEN ARTIST'S MARKET/CHARLES ANDERSON & SPENCER EPPS

part of why. You want to see the art. You get to meet the actual artist. It’s just really cool.” –Joey Hartmann-Dow (Us and We Art)

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WhereYat.com | September 2021

PUNKS WITH SOUL A Window Into NOLA’s Gutter Punk Culture By Grant Varner

So what ever happened to the punks? You remember. Those angsty 20-somethings with the spiked hair and leather-studded jackets—shrouded by the aroma of cheap cigarettes and parental disappointment that dominated the underground rock scene of the 70s. Well, odds are they’re in your own backyard…as a matter of fact, so is the rest of the New Orleans Underworld.

New Orleans' gutter punk culture is hiding in plain sight

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GRANT VARNER

Imagine. You’re exploring an abandoned nursing home on the Westbank. You stroll through dark hallways, past the black-mold ridden drywall with your iPhone flashlight as your guide; the battery at a convenient 8%. The adrenaline you picked up at the door compels you to peer inside one of the vacant rooms where elderly patients once spent the back nine of their days. You find nothing but garbage and cultish graffiti like “666,” “Satan Lives,” etc. Shrugging it off, you venture outside to an overgrown courtyard, admiring intricate paintings covering the brick wall. Wait! You’ve almost stumbled into a small wire structure on the ground, seeing a fishing reel, some bracelet charms, Christmas tinsel, and…a vertebrae. Non-human, assuming…not five feet away is a wooden shrine with paganistic looking symbols painted all over. Suddenly, you hear voices bleeding from the next courtyard over. On edge, with a dash of intrigue, you emerge into a large decaying room exposed to the sky. In the center sits a seven-foot tower of empty Twisty Tea cans. “Twisty Tower,” the sign reads. You accept this cult is on some serious dope. Still, you follow the voices into the courtyard where you creep around the corner prepared for anything. Cult members? Tweakers? Ghosts? No. You’re looking at a camp of greasy looking 20-somethings with mohawks and dreads, smoking cigarettes over a barbeque. Truly, the chillest looking “cultists” you’ve ever seen. This was my first encounter with the “gutter punks” and what I would soon come to discover was just the tip of the iceberg. After several months, I submitted to my curiosity and visited the home again, but the occupants departed. I continued the hunt at the Market Street Power Plant where I found another makeshift camp occupied by a warm and welcoming woman known as “Mama.” I introduced myself and explained my quest. First, Mama tells me everything

WhereYat.com | September 2021

Dropped Out of Society & Discovered Another Secret Society Living Within These Walls You’ll Never Be Able to Fully Understand This Type of Community Lest you Lose Everything Material in Life And Give yoursel f To Strangers To Feel Love Is to SHARE a Meal or Better To Feel Love is to share your DRUGS Among Each other That IS What We Believe IN. . . IS the Elevat ion of OUR CONSCIOUSNESS

“If most people lived by that in these kinds of communities, it would be amazing, but, unfortunately, they’re in it for themselves,” Mama said. “I haven’t had bad experiences with them (the gutter punks). They respect me because I respect them.” “Where do other branches of the community call home?” I asked. “All over. There’s the Navy Base and Laney Boggs, which is reportedly haunted,” Mama said. “Is this place haunted?” I ask. “The people who live here say they see shadow people. Just wandering spirits. They aren’t harmful and don’t judge. Everyone who lives this kind of life is lost in one way or another. They come here because they don’t fit anywhere else. When you judge,

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you’re perceiving things about people that aren't true. You never know what someone’s going through.” Now Loki, aka “The Princess of Jackson Square,” a friend of Mama’s, chimes in to offer a bit of Underworld history. We leave Mama and hike to the roof for the most amazing New Orleans sunset I’ve ever seen. “Gutter punks are culture group subsets like Dirty Kids, Crusty Kids, and Schwily Kids” she said. “In 2014, folks were released from Angola (prison) and migrated into Jackson Square. ‘The Pirates’ (Loki’s ‘subset’) teach the girls around here that there’s no reason to sell your ass. We can scrap, wash cars, or something. No gangsters in any city would tell them something like that.” After letting this soak in, I decide it’s time to leave as it got dark and other residents grow rowdy. I thank Mama and Loki for their time with a pack of cigarettes and we parted ways. As I drove home that night, Mama’s words echoed through my head. She was absolutely right. To us, these individuals might seem like they failed society, but what if society failed them? My preconceived notions towards this facet of the city’s soul were challenged. As the reader, perhaps your own notions may be challenged too. Instead of quickly dismissing such characters, rather ask yourself, “What have I been through that they haven’t?” “In what ways has the world been kinder to me than it has to them?” “What are my own addictions/demons?” “How do I channel my own struggles?” “What am I running from?”

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about the gutter punks. Unlike most homeless transients, they CHOOSE the lifestyle. “They’re runaways,” she began. “Most gutter punks are teenage to early 20s people who don’t work, revolve around drugs, and getting one over on anyone they can.” The nursing home sculptures? “It’s them expressing their...habit,” Mama explained. “Most people living these lives are addicted to one thing or another. When you are addicted to something, you have to put that energy from the addiction into something. If you don’t, you go insane.” “Interesting,” I mused. “So for them it’s these sculptures(?)” “It might be what they’re seeing in their head because of whatever they’re doing,” Mama said. It’s a good way to get rid of their demons. I’ve seen a lot of gutter punks who do amazing work, but don’t do anything with it. I’ll show you for example.” We get up, and Mama leads me into her place—a beautifully appointed room, roughly the size of a garage, with art written all over the walls and illuminated by purple ceiling lights. I notice an impressive makeshift kitchen adorned with Cajun spices, sauces, and random dining accessories. Mama raises the lid of a crockpot to reveal a steak cooking, which looks absolutely as wonderful as it smells. Guarding all of Mama’s personal belongings sits a kitten being nursed back to health. “There’s one thing written here that you’d love to believe is true, which, unfortunately, is not.” Mama removes a poster from the wall, revealing a passage written in sharpie:

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BATON ROUGE IS GREENER THAN YOU’D THINK Nature Sights to Visit in LA’s Capital Area By Steven Melendez

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Bluebonnet Swamp Nature Center 10503 N. Oak Hills Pkwy., Baton Rouge Bluebonnet, run by the Baton Rouge-area park and recreation district known as BREC, boasts a scenic network of easy-to-walk trails and wooden boardwalks wending their way through a swamp and forest. There’s also an indoor nature center with live animals like reptiles on display, information about the ecosystems of the region, and an interesting collection of bird decoys. A gift shop offers postcards and other items with a heavy emphasis on nature-related children’s toys. Admission is $3 for adults and $2 for kids under 18. Keep in mind that dogs are only allowed on designated days. Port Hudson State Historic Site 236 U.S. Highway 61 Jackson Port Hudson, which overlooks the Mississippi River, was the site of a grisly Civil War conflict in 1863, considered the longest siege in U.S. military history, with the Union ultimately seizing the strategically important site after losses on both sides. Plaques throughout this site commemorate and point out facets of the siege, and the park hosts an annual reenactment, but it’s

STEVE MELENDEZ

If your experience in nature in the Baton Rouge region has been limited to walking around the Louisiana State University campus, and perhaps the area around the State Capitol building, you’re simply missing out. The capital and surrounding region are home to a variety of parks, trails, and nature centers, including some right in the heart of the city, that are worth exploring whenever you’re in town. Check out the various park agencies’ websites for details on opening hours and, if you have a dog, which parks allow them on leash. Keep in mind that unlike parks in New Orleans, many of these facilities don’t allow alcohol. Here are a few of the most beautiful parks in Baton Rouge.

also the site of six miles of walking trails through country that’s unusually hilly for southeastern Louisiana. Visit the pair of observation towers in the park to get a view of the battlefield and the surrounding countryside. Admission is $4 per person.

of some of the flower varieties, from Louisiana monikers like “Cool Jazz” and “Red Beans” to more mysterious names like “Heartbreak Warfare” and “Disappointed Child.” A playground is also available for kids, and The Garden Cafe offers sandwiches, soups, salads, and drinks next to the library. Admission is free.

Burden Museum & Gardens 4560 Essen Ln. Baton Rouge This sprawling complex affiliated with Louisiana State University (but not on its main campus) is close enough to Interstate 10 that highway sounds are audible at some points within. After a bit of wandering, however, you’ll forget that you’re in the city at all. The botanical gardens highlight beautiful flowers, and there’s a historic Museum of Rural Life on site, but the real treasure is the trail system that winds its way through the woods, including one of the most beautiful swamp boardwalks in the region. The Barton Arboretum, accessible by car or by walking the trails, contains a tranquil pond, a variety of trees including pine and live oak, and a camellia garden. There’s a $10 admission fee for the Rural Life Museum, but access to the gardens and trails is free. Dogs are allowed on leash.

Blackwater Conservation Area 9385 Blackwater Rd. Baker A onetime gravel pit converted into a park, BREC’s Blackwater Conservation Area offers a network of trails wending their way along a set of scenic lakes and ponds, where residents also enjoy fishing as rabbits hop around nearby. Stroll down the paths to the Comite River, or simply relax along the water. Dogs are allowed on leash, and restroom facilities are available at the trailhead. There’s no charge to enter the park.

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Mary Ann Brown Preserve 13515 Louisiana Route 965 St. Francisville Scenic forested and lakeside trails wind through this park on the edge of Louisiana’s Tunica Hills, meaning a bit more elevation than New Orleanians are often used to. The park is quite beautiful and not too heavily trafficked, and you can spot animals like rabbits and chipmunks scampering through. Trails can at times be muddy or partly blocked by fallen trees and branches after storms. Lovely but sticky spider webs can also stretch between the trees, so be careful not to get stuck. Dogs are allowed on leash, and there’s no admission fee. Frenchtown Road Conservation Area 17819 Frenchtown Rd. Greenwell Springs This is the BREC system’s largest park, and its network of trails offers plenty to look at in terms of trees, birds (often more audible than visible), and seasonal wildflowers. Stroll down to where the trails overlook the Amite River for a scenic and highly photographable view, or take a shortcut along the railroad line on the edge of the park down to a beach area along the river where families enjoy picnicking. The trails can flood, so wear appropriate footwear if it’s been raining and be prepared to turn around if the trails are impassable. Keep in mind that dogs are not allowed in the park. There’s no admission fee. Independence Community Park 7500 Independence Blvd. Baton Rouge Located near the geographic center of East Baton Rouge Parish, Independence Community Park might be best known as home to the main branch of the local public library system. It’s also home to a sprawling botanical garden with sections devoted to colorful plants including roses, ginger, irises, and day lilies. Make sure to check out the whimsical, racehorse-style names

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WhereYat.com | September 2021

THE OTHER CBD: CBD Shops to Visit in the Crescent City By Kimmie Tumbre

There’s a CBD that is rapidly becoming popular in New Orleans and we aren't talking about the City Business District. Scientifically known as cannabidiol, CBD is one of the important active ingredients of cannabis, also known as marijuana. While recreational marijuana usage isn’t legal in Louisiana, CBD serves as an effective and legal way to get most of the benefits of the popular plant. Being an essential property in medical marijuana, CBD comes with a plethora of health benefits, directly benefiting many medical issues in both humans and animals.

Simply CBD Shop, simplycbdshop.com Let’s start with Simply CBD Shop. This locally born CDB store has four locations around the city, including Uptown, Marigny, Westbank, and Mid-City. Also run by the owners of Crescent City Vape, Simply CBD Shop has credited themselves as NOLA’s “most trusted source for high-quality, lab-tested CBD, Delta-8, and other cannabinoid products.” While self-credited, their reviews and pleasant customer comments speak for themselves. Simply CBD Shop is likely the most recognized CBD store in the city. Your CBD Store, yourcbdstorenola.com While Your CBD Store is a national chain with locations across the country, it was the first CDB store brought to the New Orleans area and is just as popular as any other locally bred CBD store. Your CBD Store currently holds nine locations in Louisiana and three locations across the metropolitan areas including: Uptown, Metairie, and Westbank. Brought to the Big Easy by Crystal Nugent, the company has a goal of helping others through the sale of natural, hemp-derived products.

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Organic CBD Garden, organiccbdgarden.com Created during the height of the pandemic, Organic CBD Garden recognized that there was an obvious need for more stress relieving products. While located in the outlying St. Bernard Parish, this company gained its popularity quickly with people traveling to the Chalmette area for their CBD products. Organic CBD Garden prides itself in providing “the best oils, tinctures, capsules, flowers, body and pain cream, beauty and bath, vape, and pet care products.” Their products are from 100% non-GMO industrial hemp. Uptown Hemp, theuptownhemp.com Located on Earhart Boulevard in New Orleans, Uptown Hemp is clearly named for its location in the popular Uptown region of the city. With a mission to “provide an avenue for healing to consumers,” Uptown Hemp focuses on their customers' individual needs when it comes to CBD. The Black owned company provides a variety of products from vapes to topical gels. They also offer a monthly membership, with delivery services coming soon. Urban Tree CBD, neworleanscbdtopicals.com Also in the Uptown area on the famous Magazine Street, Urban Tree CBD credits themselves as New Orleans’s “goto” CBD shop. With a wide variety of trusted products, this company assures that their products are THC free and that they have something for everybody. With everything from roll-ons, tinctures, topicals, and more, their products are all natural and toxin free. The Herb Import, herbimport.com Just at the end of the Canal Street streetcar line is The Herb Import. Established in 1996, they have expanded their locations from Mid-City to Uptown New Orleans and the French Quarter. While this company owns a

multitude of shops from Sacred Grinds Coffee to the High Grounds Dispensary, The Herp Import is a New Orleans staple with a wide variety of products from CBD and beyond. From gummies to oils, this company knows just about all there is to know when it comes to herbal health care. Mushroom New Orleans, themushroomnola.com Want to visit New Orleans’s oldest independent record store and smoke shop? Then look no further. Founded in 1969, Mushroom New Orleans is one groovy place to see. While expanding to CBD over the years, this Uptown landmark is a retail store with a wide variety of products. Located on Broadway Street in the University area of the city, this shop not only has a wide variety of CBD products but also the many accessories that one may want to use with their CBD. Ra Shop, rashopcbd.com With locations all over the state, as well as in Hattiesburg, the Ra Shop has an entire website just for their CBD offerings. You’ll find CBD productions not only for yourself, but also for your pet! The Ra Shop features products from Five Leaf Labs out of Baton Rouge and MedTerra Pets CBD from California. The Ra Shop has been voted “Best Smoke Shop” by Where Y’at readers since 2016, so expect to find professional service and a variety of options to choose from. There you have it. While there are other awesome CBD stores and retailers in the city, this list provides you with some of the best ones around. With all of the benefits of the hemp plant derivative, it’s certain that at least one of these places will have exactly what you are looking for. Whether for you, a friend, or a furry child, CBD is definitely a good solution for a multitude of ailing issues.

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What are the benefits you ask? Well, CBD has been known to support muscle and joint function, ease body pains and headaches, provide tranquility, aid in sleeping, can guide with focusing and anxiety, along with aiding in skin health and internal balance. In animals, CBD can aid in separation anxiety, pain, and aging. With all of the benefits, some simply use CBD for the calm, relaxing mood that it creates inside of the body. Deriving from the hemp plant (relative of the marijuana plant), CBD’s popularity has become the cause of several stores opening in the Big Easy and outlying areas. Not only stores, but several coffee shops and cafes have added CBD enhanced products to their menus. With the popularity of CBD constantly rising, here is a list of some locations you should try.

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For almost 50 years, the landmark St. Vincent Guesthouse in the Lower Garden District was the perfect place to score budget accommodations. For around $70 a night, guests could stay in a run-down hotel replete with musty odors, questionable linens, dirty drop ceilings, and paper-thin walls, yet many adored it nonetheless. After all, the guesthouse still offered glimpses of 19th century architecture on the interior and a stunning exterior, it's in a choice location at the root of Magazine Street's Uptown corridor, and ghost children reputedly haunted its halls.

Several years ago, rumors began circulating regarding a planned renovation, a move which was met by cries of disfavor and approbation alike. There were those reluctant to give up such unique and inexpensive accommodations, while others couldn't wait to see the 157-year-old building brought back to life. Originally built in 1864, St. Vincent's served as an orphanage operated by the Daughters of Charity, a group of nuns dedicated to serving the poor. The “infant asylum,” as it was then called, was built in response to yellow fever, a pandemic that killed nearly half of those who contracted it. The construction of the orphanage was largely funded by local heroine, businesswoman, and philanthropist Margaret

HOTEL SAINT VINCENT / DOUGLAS FRIEDMAN

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brewhouse Haughery, an Irish immigrant whose incredible humanitarianism and business acumen earned her not only a prominent place in our country's history, but a statue erected of her likeness in 1884 at the intersection of Camp and Prytania. Just this past June, the Hotel Saint Vincent opened for reservations after a $22.5 million restoration led by Austin-based designers, hospitality veterans, and co-owners Liz Lambert and Larry McGuire. The 75-room boutique hotel's design was the duo's first collaboration through their newly-created design firm Lambert McGuire. They also manage the property and its restaurants though MML Hospitality, a group founded by McGuire and Tom Moorman, and

rebranded this year to include their new partner Lambert. Lambert was first struck by the building one day in 2014 while walking down Magazine Street. After many attempts, she finally contacted the owner and met him at his home in the Garden District, but she was unable to convince him to sell the property. “Later on, a good friend of mine was able to get the building under contract, but then the owner went missing (his car was found near the airport), and we couldn't finish the deal,” Lambert said. Eventually, the guesthouse was inherited by the owner's daughter and local developers Zach Kupperman and Jayson Seidman struck an agreement with Lambert, and they were at last able to close.

MetroStudio, a local architectural firm wellversed in historical restoration and adaptive reuse projects, was hired on to renovate the building. Even though the structure went through a semi-renovation in the 80s to transform the orphanage into a hotel, it never underwent significant restoration. “A lot of the challenges we had to deal with were just the challenges that come with a property that's almost 200 years old,” Kenneth Gowland, founder and architect of MetroStudio, said. “[There was] a lot of water damage, a lot of termite damage, [and] a lot of masonry deterioration. Getting the building repaired and structurally sound was a big portion of what we were doing out there.”

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Over the course of the renovation, there were some unique architectural elements they decided to keep moving forward. Historic doors and windows were uncovered in the chapel area and restored to their original condition, and a mosaic tile flooring discovered in what was formerly an infirmary was not only kept, but the design was also recreated in the hotel's new restaurant. They also uncovered other notable details, things like the original heartwood pine flooring, old cast iron columns, and stair landings covered up in cheap tile. “Honestly, a lot of it was peeling back layers of renovations over the last 80 years to get us back to the original appearance,” Gowland said. Most of the property's structures are original to the site, but two new buildings were added in the renovation. One is a modern take on a stable, where, in “olden days,” horses and carriages would have been kept, but now serves as an event venue that also has the main production kitchen for the entire facility and other backof-house functions. The other new construction is a pool bar structure that separates the dining courtyard from the pool area, while serving both. Surprisingly, the 80s renovation did include a pool, but they tore out the old, somewhat unnerving, green-hued swimming facility and replaced it with a brand new, Saltillo-tiled pool with a different shape in a slightly different location. In their vision of the interior, Lambert McGuire decided they were going to go for “60s and 70s decadence over the beautiful base layer of New Orleans classic Garden District design.” Lambert focused on the rooms and lobby areas while McGuire concentrated on the restaurant and bar spaces. The Hotel Saint Vincent offers two dining destinations, a fine dining restaurant featuring coastal Italian cuisine dubbed the San Lorenzo & Paradise Lounge (featuring hand painted murals by local artist Ann Marie Auricchio and a custom bar built by Daniel Bell), and the more casual French/Vietnamese spot called, the Elizabeth Street Café. The hotel also features a guest-only bar called the Chapel Club. “In the main dining room of San Lorenzo, we added a

historic structure,” Lambert said. In pursuit of that effort, every suite in the hotel offers a different layout, some facing poolside or “Mary” suites overlooking a statue of the Virgin Mary in her grotto, while others like the “Sister Studios” on the 4th floor are more intimate, featuring skyline views, loft ceilings, and writer's nooks. Lambert incorporated her love of Italian modernism into the guest rooms and public spaces by employing a palette of greys, salmons, reds, and golds. “For the bathrooms, we were inspired by the marbled bindings of Margaret Haughery’s financial ledgers, and we worked with one of our friends, George Venson of Voutsa, to create a sort of psychedelic marbled wallpaper,” Lambert said. “We loved it so much, we ended up using it in other places, including robes and headboards." Intending to flesh out the sub-tropical flora found around the hotel, Lambert McGuire hired a Costa Rica-based firm Vida Masterplanning + Design to imagine the landscaping. Lush, tropical plants line the brick courtyard and pool, replete with burbling fountains, features reminiscent of many French Quarter hotels and residences. Today, rates at the Hotel Saint Vincent have increased exponentially from its budget, youth hostel days, with rooms starting at $319, going all the way up to $1,319 per night. Amenities include D.S. & Durga bath products, full in-room minibars, hand steamers, Italian bed linens, custom silk bathrobes, flat-screen TVs with personalized streaming services, portable Bluetooth speakers, and even sound machines. In addition to the swimming pool, concierge services, restaurants and bars, the thick high wainscot with rope and medallion detailing and then hotel also offers ByGeorge, a “fashion and lifestyle put a layer of excitement on top of the classic architecture with boutique” featuring luxury leather goods, vintage painted floors and murals, custom mohair couches, and wild watches from makers like Rolex and Cartier, jewelry stones choices,” McGuire said. “In the Chapel Club, we amped it from Alice Cicolini and Oliver Peoples, and much up with a hot pink velvet bar front, ebonized floors, and insane more. Lambert said “we wanted to create something black and white marble counter tops.” grand and a little debaucherous,” and indeed, they “We approached the building in the spirit of restoration, have succeeded. Though, we can't help but wonder, with the additional intent of layering a new story on top of the what would Margaret think?

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MEDITATION TIPS: Help You Get Into a Calmer State of Mind By Celeste Turner

Believe it or not, meditation is not about the elimination of thoughts, as many people commonly think, but it is more about the awareness of your thoughts. “Many people believe that the intention in meditation is to erase your mind of all thoughts,” Stephanie Osborne, CEO of Meditate New Orleans, said. ”That's nearly impossible since the mind is meant to think and process. The intention is to notice your thoughts and remember to turn your awareness to whatever anchor you choose. Ultimately, meditation is meant to bring your awareness to the present moment.” Although practicing meditation trains your mind to focus your awareness on the present, that state of calmness doesn’t just feel good— it’s actually good for your health, too. For Osborne, her practice of meditation alleviated her ulcerative colitis symptoms and eased her anxiety. Her first encounter with meditation was when she was a student at the New Orleans Center for Creative Arts from 1993-1995. “I learned, from lying in stillness, how much the constant chatter slows down and then you're able to rest in awareness,” Osborne said. “Meditation over the years has helped reduce my ulcerative colitis symptoms, has helped settle my anxiety, and has helped me to see things more clearly.” Undoubtedly, the daily practice of meditation has been touted as the one of the most effective ways to manage stress and take care of your emotional, as well as mental, state of mind. Even mainstream medicine is starting to acknowledge the healing powers of meditation as the many studies have shown the various benefits. Some benefits of meditation include

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decreased blood pressure, decreased release of cortisol or the stress hormone, improved sleep, and enhanced creativity. Meditation has helped people manage their symptoms of anxiety, asthma, chronic pain, irritable bowel syndrome, depression, and more. Dr. Cindy Ashkins PhD, LCSW, LMT, a local psychotherapist and life coach of 41 years, has recommended practicing meditation to her patients for the reduction of stress. “Absolutely,“ Dr. Ashkins, who is also a licensed massage therapist and integrates her work with energy psychology techniques and breath work, said. “With all the noise from the outside world and the age of technology, I think it helps to bring an individual clarity and awakens one’s creativity and expansion into new possibilities.” Dr. Ashkins also emphasized that the practice of meditation teaches us to utilize “our mindfulness, to stay in the present, and allows us to hear that still small voice inside of us, which is our core and our true self, without all the outside noise.” As meditation brings attention to our inner self, it can also help us to have more control over our thoughts and feelings. “Through meditation, we are able to be more fully present and we cultivate generosity and kindness toward ourselves and others,” Larry Ozenberger, founder of New Orleans Insight, a local peer-led mindfulness meditation practice group, said. For the past two years, Ozenberger has been certified to teach mindful meditation and has been practicing this tradition since 2007. “I was attracted to and have stayed with meditation because I wanted to deal with the problem of suffering in my life, to become more open-hearted, and

STEPHANIE OSBORNE

If you mention meditation to someone, you might spark a questioning look or a typical response like, “Meditation doesn’t work for me. I can’t turn off my thoughts.”

Welcome Back Students & Faculty! JOIN US FOR BREAKFAST, LUNCH & BRUNCH EVERYDAY! JUST A SHORT BIKE RIDE FROM CAMPUS! to learn to cultivate happiness and serenity,” Ozenberger admitted. Now that you know that meditation is good for your emotional and physical health, how do you meditate? There are many ways to meditate. In mindful meditation, you are returning to your breath and strive to remain in the present moment by following these steps: 1. Find a comfortable position. Sitting in a chair or on the floor is most common. 2. Set a timer. If you are trying to meditate for the first time, choose something like 5 or 10 minutes to begin. 3. Notice your body—simply breathe in the cool, fresh air into your nostrils and then be aware of the warm breath leaving through your nose. For example, counting 10 breaths, then reset to zero, and repeat. 4. Notice when your mind wanders. If your mind wanders, bring your attention back to your breath. This is the actual training and calming of our minds. While all minds wander, meditation instructors like Osborne and Ozenberger indicated that the actual training involved with meditation is just to keep on beginning again. If you need a little help, try downloading these free apps: Calm, Headspace, and Insight Timer. Calm and Headspace are two of the more popular apps that will teach you the basic techniques of meditation. In these introductory sessions, a virtual meditation

instructor will teach the concepts of mindful awareness while focusing on your breath and body. Calm has a free seven-day introduction or you can subscribe for a more rigorous 21-day program ($39 for a year or $9.99 monthly). Each day, the meditation sessions will take seven to 15 minutes and it includes a few minutes of background on a meditation technique followed by a practice session. Headspace has a 10-day introduction that consists of 10-minute segments that teach the concepts of meditation. After the free 10day program, you will need a $12.99-a-month subscription ($7.99 monthly for a full year). Additionally, the Insight Timer app has an extensive free version, as well as a Member Plus subscription for $59.99 per year or $9.99 per month. If you prefer to meditate with a group, Ozenberger hosts free group meetings on Tuesday evenings at 7-8:30 p.m. and on Saturday afternoons at 3-4:30 p.m. via Zoom. “There is no fee, but donations are gratefully accepted,” Ozenberger stated. For Zoom links, please sign up for New Orleans Insight’s email list at noimg.org contact. For in-person guided meditation sessions, Osborne of Meditate New Orleans began offering her regular schedule on August 5, for Thursdays at 6 p.m. and Saturdays at 10 a.m. These one-hour meditation meetings are $10 per session. Sign up by texting 504-884-4567. Whether you use the free apps or sign up with a local group, meditating for 5 or 10 minutes a day can improve focus, memory, and even train your brain to cope with everyday life stressors.

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$20 & UNDER

Happy Hour on the Half Shell By Kim Ranjbar

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For tourists coming from other oyster-producing regions of the country—states like California, Washington, New York, Massachusetts, and Maine—they'll likely never forget their first taste of Gulf oysters in Louisiana. First, though the species down here can also be found all along the Eastern Coast, as far north as New Brunswick, Canada, our oysters tend to be a lot larger, meatier, and milder in flavor due to the mixing of freshwater from the Mississippi River pouring into the salty, seawater of the Gulf.

COURTESY ELYSIAN SEAFOOD

Elysian Seafood

Seafood Sally's to 7 p.m., they have happy hour oysters: $6 per half dozen raw Gulf oysters or the same price for three charbroiled oysters. It's a considerable discount, especially when you compare with their regular prices. Another “buck-a-shuck” happy hour can be had starting at 4 p.m., Wednesday through Sunday, at Seaworthy, a high-end seafood spot inside the Warehouse District's Ace Hotel. Known for their elaborate raw bar, Seaworthy has oysters from every producing coast in the country, from Humbolt Bay in California to Long Island, New York. Though Louisiana Gulf oysters often make an appearance on their half-priced happy hour for a dollar each, there are occasions when other “select” oysters are featured. Even though they might be slightly more expensive, it's an excellent and affordable opportunity to compare the vastly different flavor profiles in mollusks from one coast to the other. Neighborhood sports bar Cooter Brown's on South Carrollton Avenue has been serving up oysters with their brews for almost 50 years. Wall-to-wall flat-screen TVs and an expansive beer list (84 taps and even more by the bottle) ensure that customers will never miss a game, any game, or the latest brew. In addition to po-boys, burgers,

and sandwiches, Cooter Brown's patrons can also enjoy cold, freshly-shucked, Louisiana Gulf oysters for only $10 per dozen from 3 p.m. till midnight every Tuesday night. Over in Lakeview on Harrison Avenue, Parlay's is a neighborhood pub serving up a whole lot more than icy cocktails and craft brews on tap. In addition to regularly hosting local pop-ups like @jambalayagirl, @nolasliders, @burger_nerds, and @rollieshotdiggitydogs, the pub also features a dozen raw, P&J oysters at $8 (and $12 for charbroiled on Fridays only) Tuesday through Sunday from 3-7 p.m.! One of the most impressive oyster happy hours in town is located downtown inside the InterContinental Hotel. Contemporary Louisiana restaurant Trenasse, whose kitchen is helmed by local magic-maker and chef Matt Farmer, offers a menu featuring an incredible “fowl” gumbo with chicken and duck confit, smoky braised short ribs, Buffalo frog legs, and, of course, oysters. The regular price is $20 per dozen, but every day during happy hour from 3 p.m. to 6 p.m., lucky diners (or barflies) can get meaty mollusks on the half shell for 75¢ each! If our calculations are correct, that's $9 per dozen; can it get any better than that? Well, it can certainly get similar. Up on the corner of St. Charles and Napoleon avenues, right on the streetcar line, Superior Seafood also offers 75¢ oysters from 4 p.m. to 6:30 p.m. daily. You'll want to slurp a dozen along with a large Frozen French 75 or Pomegranate Mojito set at a small-sized price. Finally, over on Bienville Street in Mid-City, Clesi's Restaurant & Catering is also shucking out inexpensive oysters. Regular prices are already quite reasonable at $13 per dozen, but on Wednesdays, if you order a bottle of wine or a bucket of beer, you can also enjoy oysters at only a quarter each! Does it get any cheaper than that? Well, you could hit Magazine Street bar Le Bon Temps Rouler for their “Free Oyster Fridays,” but you have to move fast because it's all over when they run out!

COURTESY SEAFOOD SALLY'S

Secondly, the sheer abundance of oysters in the Gulf Coast region make our mollusks considerably more affordable. Lately, our oyster population has diminished due to environmental impacts from climate change and algae blooms to increased oil production, not to mention spills, in the Gulf. But compared to other regions in the country, it's still much easier to find affordable, local oysters...especially at happy hour. Along with great gas station food and go-cups, New Orleans has ample options for happy hour, specifically ones that include Gulf oysters. Easily one of the best combinations in the world, especially on a warm New Orleans day, is an ice-cold beer with a cool dozen of freshly-shucked, local oysters. Not to mention the lagniappe that commonly makes an appearance alongside, from Tabasco and horseradish to saltine crackers and French bread. Opened in the Carrollton neighborhood only a few months ago, Seafood Sally's is probably one of the newest spots in town to score oysters. Chef Marcus Jacobs and Caitlin Carney, the dynamic duo behind the ever-popular Marjie's Grill in Mid-City, launched the Oak Street restaurant in early May, touting a more traditional, Southern seafood menu with a few of the Southeast Asian tweaks they're known for thrown in for good measure. Along with boiled and fried seafood, hush puppies, and beer-battered onion rings, Seafood Sally's also offers fresh Gulf oysters on the half-shell and, at happy hour, you can get them half-priced, only a “buck-a-shuck.” Go early, kick back on their tree-shaded patio, and enjoy a spritzer and a dozen of the Gulf's finest served with cocktail sauce, horseradish, and a nuoc cham mignonette. Way across town on St. Claude Avenue, the folks at Elysian Seafood in St. Roch Market offer a similar seafood happy hour. Owners Jennifer Sherrod and Brandon Blackwell are regularly serving up a seafood bounty, from Louisiana crab cakes to crawfish sausage po-boys and coconut curry shrimp. But from Monday to Friday, 4 p.m.

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AMERICAN

Bub’s NOLA is New Orleans’s go to spot for the most delicious smash burgers and French fries in the city. You can order the standard Bub Burger or branch out and go for the Bub Royale, Peanut Bubber, or the Impossible Burger. All of Bub’s sandwiches come served on tasty brioche buns. 4413 Banks St., bubsnola.com Bud’s Broiler is a local chain of burger joints that have served charcoal-broiled burgers and shakes in New Orleans since 1952. The menu features a variety of hamburgers and cheeseburgers as well as hot dogs, chicken, and specialty po-boys. A separate seafood menu features shrimp, catfish, and combo plates. Multiple Locations, budsbroiler.com Chicken & Watermelon serves over 80 flavors of chicken wings, as well as refreshing watermelon punch. Some of its best flavors include BBQ, Yaka-mein, Cajun Ranch, Teriyaki, Garlic Parmesan, and Lemon Pepper. There is also a separate menu for seafood, which includes the fish combo, fish bites, tuna sandwich, or tuna combo. Multiple Locations, boogiebird.com Crescent City Brewhouse is the French Quarter’s premier and best microbrewery. Try one of the brewhouse’s delicious in-house beers such as the Red Stallion, Black Forest, and Creole Alt. Make sure to also order one of the restaurant’s mouthwatering burgers or try the weekend oyster bars. 527 Decatur St., 504-522-0571, crescentcitybrewhouse.com

football? Make sure to come hungry and order the fried oysters or the St. Louis-style spare ribs. 519 Fulton St., 504-593-8118, caesars.com

MISA is on a mission to bring chicness to the New Orleans restaurant scene. With a menu highlighting flavors from Italy, North Africa, the Middle East, India, and more, this restaurant is truly one-of-akind. Choose small plates like Avocado Bruschetta and main courses like the Moroccan Fish. 4734 Magazine St., 504-510-2791, misanola.com New Orleans Vampire Cafe is worth risking your neck for. Make sure to “stake” out the Dracula Burger, which is half brisket and ground beef topped with arugula, blue cheese, chilli pepper sauce, and onion/bacon jam. Stop for breakfast bites like shrimp and grits, as well as Sunday brunches with bottomless mimosas. 801 Royal St., 504-581-0801, nolavampirecafe.com The Steakhouse at Harrah’s is the perfect place to unwind when you need a break from the slots on date night. Enjoy filet mignon, ribeye, or prime New York strip. The pan seared crab cakes, charred oysters, and the BBQ shrimp are also not to be missed. 8 Canal St., 504-533-6111, caesars.com

Gattuso’s Neighborhood Restaurant is located in beautiful and historic Old Gretna. In addition to a well-stocked bar and live music nights, Gattuso’s menu contains mouthwatering bar food. Order anything from po-boys and wraps to filet mignon and grilled salmon or tuna. 435 Huey P. Long Ave., Gretna, 504-368-1114, gattusos.net

Willa Jean is the definition of Southern comfort. Using fresh, local ingredients, the restaurant/bakery is best known for its delicious biscuits, which you can get with fried chicken, sausage gravy, seasonal jam, and more. Toasts and sandwiches are also available, as are many different brews of coffee. 611 O’Keefe Ave., 504-509-7334, willajean.com

Rendon Inn has been Uptown’s favorite neighborhood bar since 1933. Select from a variety of bourbon, rum, tequila, scotch, and craft cocktails like Old Fashioned, Sazerac, French 75, and Manhattan. Bite into some of Rendon Inn’s boudin, fried onion strings, and different sandwiches and poboys. 4501 Eve St., 504-218-7106, rendoninn. com Rivershack Tavern is located adjacent to the Mississippi River and is truly a sight to behold. From the tacky ashtrays to the funky bar stools, Rivershack oozes personality. Enjoy a multitude of different burgers, po-boys, and deli sandwiches, as well as appetizers like alligator sausage and garbage fries. 3449 River Rd., 504-834-4938, rivershacktavern.com

Vitascope Hall, inside the Hyatt Regency Hotel, is a perfect gathering spot to enjoy drinks, snacks, and sports on one of many big-screen TVs. Vitascope Hall serves fresh Louisiana seafood and sushi, along with an array of options that include burgers, pizzas, sandwiches, soups, and salads. 601 Loyola Ave., 504-561-1234, neworleans. regency.hyatt.com

Maypop brings the rich flavors of Southeast Asia to New Orleans. Established by Chef Michael Gulotta, the menu features Asian fusion dishes like crawfish etouffee curry and smoked duck ham with cashew butter sticky rice. You can also order craft cocktails like the Bangkok Mule or Sazerac Du Roi. 611 O’Keefe Ave., 504-518-6345, maypoprestaurant.com

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sweet potato, and mushroom. Multiple Locations, bearcatcafe.com Caffe Caffe is a café and coffeehouse that serves gourmet coffee, pastries, and a variety of breakfast and lunch food. Order the specialty breakfast platter of scrambled eggs, bacon, or sausage with grits, biscuits, and bacon. You can also get salads and soups, as well as sandwiches like grilled chicken and shrimp remoulade. Multiple Locations, caffecaffe.com Carmo is a gem that mixes international elements from Southeast Asia, West Africa, the Caribbean, and South America to create its one-of-a-kind dishes. Some of these include ceviche, trifongo, and a wide arrangement of seafood dishes as well. Make sure to also order one of the many tropical cocktails. 527 Julia St., 504-875-4132, cafecarmo.com

Riccobono's Panola Street Cafe has been a NOLA Uptown staple since opening in 1998. The café is Rum & the Lash, which is located inside Mick’s Irish famous for its hearty breakfasts, which include Pub, offers a menu of bar food with Southern flavors. favorites like Crabcake Benedict, Crawfish Sauté For appetizers, order either the fries, curry fries, or Omelet, and Huevos Rancheros. If you need a little wings. For entrees, order either the burger, veggie extra to wake up, the café also offers Irish coffee and burger, chicken sandwich, or R&L salad. You won’t other breakfast cocktails. 7801 Panola St., leave disappointed! 4801 Bienville St., 504-314-1810, panolastreetcafe.com 504-482-9113, facebook.com/ RumandtheLash.

ASIAN

Legacy Kitchen Craft Tavern prides itself on its refined American cuisine. From breakfast classics like crawfish queso to pecan smoked chicken wings, you are guaranteed to find your next favorite meal on the menu. Enjoy daily brunches with items like fried chicken and waffles, as well as crawfish and egg beignets. 700 Tchoupitoulas St., Mikimoto has been providing Uptown NOLA with 504-613-2350, legacykitchen.com authentic Japanese food for over 20 years. If you’re a fan of sushi rolls, then Mikimoto has you covered Legacy Kitchen Steak + Chop provides fine dining with over 50 different kinds that you can choose to its loyal customers on the Westbank. You can from. Grab your chopsticks and dig into teriyaki, order different cuts of steak, appetizers like crawfish udon dishes, and an assortment of appetizers like cornbread and chargrilled oysters, or build your own gyoza and edamame. 3301 S. Carrollton Ave., burgers. Don’t miss out on ordering the chicken and 504-488-1881, mikimotosushi.com waffles with pepper jelly. 91 Westbank Expy #51, Gretna, 504-513-2606, legacykitchen.com MoPho is an Asian fusion spot for Vietnamese dishes with a Creole influence. The pho is served in several Manning’s Sports Bar & Grill is the place to be options: the veggie bowl, beef broth, or fowl broth. A for the next big game. With over 30 flat screen TVs, separate submenu has po-boys such as: fried shrimp unique sports memorabilia, and over 20 different po-boy with chisesi ham or sloppy roast duck po-boy beers on tap, what better place is there to watch

BARSWITH GREAT FOOD

Stumpy's Hatchet House is the go to place to hone your axe throwing skills. Stumpy’s is the perfect place to bring your friends or have your next bachelorette party. Located in the CBD next to Dave & Buster’s, enjoy cold drinks and bites such as hot dogs and nachos at Stumpy’s in-house dining area. 1200 Poydras St., 504-577-2937, stumpyshh.com/ neworleansla

Crescent City Brew Pub

Lakeview Harbor, home of Lakeview’s famous original burger, has an extensive menu, so you’re guaranteed to find a dish that you will absolutely love. Choose from a wide variety of breakfast items, seafood dishes, appetizers, salads, po-boys, and wraps. Come hungry and leave full and satisfied. 8550 Pontchartrain Blvd., 504-486-4887, lakeviewharbor.us

with banana barbecue sauce. 514 City Park Ave., 504-482-6845, mophonola.com

FRENCH

Cafe Degas is a NOLA gem and, since 1986, is the longest running French bistro in the city. Order exquisite dishes like broiled escargots, seared hanger steak, quiche, and a cheese and fruit plate. If you’re thirsty, Cafe Degas offers $5 mimosa and sparkling wine on Thursdays, Fridays, and Saturdays. 3127 Esplanade Ave., 504-945-5635, cafedegas.com

ITALIAN

The Crazy Italian Pizzeria has classic Italian fare that is crazy delicious. From fried ravioli and caprese salad to calzones and bolognese pasta, you’ll feel like you’ve been transported to Naples. Save room for some mouthwatering desserts like cannolis, tiramisu, Italian almond cake, and now gelato! 206 W. Harrison Ave., 504-766-7914, thecrazyitalianpizzeria.com Elle-J’s pridefully brings the Lakeview area quality Italian cuisine, seafood, and steaks with the help of its friendly staff. Some of the specialty Italian dishes include oysters signorelli, lasagna, and veal or chicken parmigiana, marsala, and picatta. You also can’t go wrong with the Fresh Fish Basilico or the Drum on the Halfshell. 900 Harrison Ave., 504-459-2262, ellejslakeview.com Josephine Estelle is a magnificent osteria run by award winning chefs Andy Ticer and Michael Hudman. The restaurant specializes in Italian favorites such as veal, arancini, and many different types of pasta. Come in for brunch, lunch, dinner, or even Aperitivo “Happy” Hour and enjoy what this spot has to offer. 600 Carondelet St., 504-930-3070, josephineestelle.com

Josephine Estelle CAFE

Bearcat Café is a daytime café with a variety of comfort food, artisanal coffee, and teas. Have the crab croquette with crawfish, tasso, and green onion remoulade, the hot chicken sandwich with pimento, the BBQ pasta with shrimp, portobello, tomato, and corn, or the pork chops with bacon jam,

Mid City Pizza is the perfect place to grab a slice during the summer. A number of different types of pizza are available, such as Hawaiian, T-Bird Special, and the Mid City Meat Monster. Customize your pizza by adding your own toppings. Appetizers, salads, and build-your-own calzones are also available. Multiple Locations, midcitypizza.com Nephew’s Ristorante continues NOLA’s tradition of providing delicious Italian and Sicilian cuisine to locals and tourists alike. Founded by Chef Frank

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RESTAURANT GUIDE

Catalanotto, some of the traditional dishes on the menu include pasta bordelaise, veal parmigiana, and spiedini. Leave some room for a spumone and cappuccino! 4445 W. Metairie Ave., Metairie, 504-533-9998, nephewsristorante.com

some of the best hummus and shawarma around. The menu is extensive with appetizers like falafel, tabouleh, and kibby to tasty entrees like lamb shank and gyro. 1500 S. Carrollton Ave., 504-862-6200, lebanonscafe.com Saj provides modern Middle Eastern food in the Big Easy. Saj’s food is served family style and includes wonderful selections like kufta, baba ganouj, and mashawi wood fire grilled lamb chops and gulf shrimp. The restaurant is BYOB, so bring over some drinks and have an excellent dinner at Saj with your family and friends! 4126 Magazine St., 504-766-0049, sajnola.com

NEWORLEANS CUISINE

Akasia’s Cafe, which is also home to Let Us Cater For You, is owned by Culinary Queens of New Orleans founder Akasia Lee. The cafe’s menu has delicious burgers such as the Ghetto Burger and the BS Night Life Burger, as well as chargrilled oysters. You can also get fried chicken, fish, ribs, and shrimp baskets. 5600 Westbank Expy., Marrero, 504-345-2563, letuscaterforyou.org

Saj Pascal’s Manale has been in New Orleans for over 100 years! Not only is all of the food incredible, Pascal’s Manale is also the birthplace of the worldrenowned New Orleans BBQ Shrimp. With Creole/ Italian dishes like turtle soup and crab cakes, you’ll know exactly why Pascal’s Manale has thrived for so long. 1838 Napoleon Ave., 504-895 4877, pascalsmanale.com Red Gravy serves delicious East Coast-style Italian fare right on Magazine Street. Select from the bruschetta, coteletta bolognese, and mussels. Red Gravy offers different types of NYC bagels for brunch, all served with a side of seasoned greens, and delicious desserts like the Cannoli Skillet Cake and the Brulee French Toast. 4206 Magazine St., 504-561-8844, redgravycafe.com Tavolino Pizza & Lounge is a casual Italian restaurant located right on Algiers Point. Come for the 13-inch, thin crust pizzas and stay for the fried gorgonzola stuffed olives. Tavolino’s caprese salad with burrata cheese, as well as the chicken liver pate, shouldn’t be passed up on. 141 Delaronde St., Algiers, 504-605-3365, instagram.com/tavolinonola

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Venezia is a family friendly establishment that has served classic Italian fare with a New Orleans flare since 1957. Some house specialties include spaghetti with Italian sausage and fresh fish almondine. The restaurant also has several types of pizza. At Venezia, there is something for everyone. 134 N. Carrollton Ave., 504-488-7991, venezianeworleans.net

Annunciation is the perfect place to relax and enjoy Cajun and Creole specialties after a long day at the office. Enjoy a craft cocktail like the Catherine the Great with one of many delicious oyster dishes, such as Oysters Rockerfeller, fried oysters, Oysters en Brochette, and oyster and artichoke soup. 1016 Annunciation St., 504-568-0245, annunciationrestaurant.com

Cafe 615 (Home of Da Wabbit) has been a Gretna hit since 1948 with its iconic Bugs Bunny themed sign. In addition to the famous Da Wabbit Burger, the restaurant serves unique dishes like crabmeat stuffed fish and bacon wrapped pork medallions. Find weekly specials like rabbit and white beans. 615 Kepler St., Gretna, 504-365-1225, cafe615.com

MEXICAN

MIDDLE EASTERN

Evangeline is known for serving some of the finest cuisines in NOLA. Named after the famous poem about the Expulsion of the Acadians, Evangeline is sure to please with scratch-cooked Cajun/Creole goodies like crawfish etouffee, gumbo, and more. Have a local beer in the restaurant’s courtyard dining area. 329 Decatur St., 504-373-4852, evangelineneworleans.com

Lebanon’s Café is NOLA’s top spot for great tasting Mediterranean/Middle Eastern cuisine. Run by chef and owner Hussain Sheereef, Lebanon’s has

Mother’s Restaurant originated in 1938 as a hangout for Marines and has since become a New Orleans favorite. Not only does Mother’s have the “world’s best baked ham,” the restaurant is also proudly known for its red beans and rice and bread pudding. Be careful, it might be better than your mother’s cooking. 401 Poydras St., 504-523-9656, mothersrestaurant.net MRB Bar & Kitchen is a great place to grab a bite while enjoying the French Quarter. MRB hosts live music daily in their courtyard. Check out their signature cocktails, frozen drinks, wine, and over 100+ local and craft beers. Sip fantastic drinks while biting into sandwiches, appetizers, or MRB’s famous grits bowls. 515 St. Philip St., 504-524-2558, mrbnola.com New Orleans Creole Cookery is another successful restaurant launched by New Orleans’s famous Tusa culinary family. Expect many specialty Creole favorites sure to leave you satisfied. Order the Creole pasta, the pecan crusted redfish, or the chargrilled oysters for a true taste of New Orleans. 510 Toulouse St., 504-5249632, neworleanscreolecookery.com Neyow’s Creole Café is an informal joint that specializes in Creole and Southern-inspired cuisine and cocktails. The restaurant serves a variety of entrees like fried chicken, pork chops, and shrimp

Short Stop Poboys has been providing po-boys to Metairites since 1966. If you’re craving poboys, then Short Stop has you covered with over 30 different kinds. Order a multitude of sides like gumbo, jambalaya, sweet potato fries, and a variety of flavored potato chips. 119 Transcontinental Dr., Metairie 504-885-4572, shortstoppoboysno.com Trenasse is the passion project of owner and chef Jim Richard, who’s originally from Lafayette. Open for lunch, dinner, and weekend brunch, Trenasse will impress you with its menu selections like Louisiana crawfish pie, fried brie burger, and duck confit lettuce wraps. The restaurant also has oysters “all days, all ways.” 444 St. Charles Ave., 504-6807000, trenasse.com Willie Mae’s Scotch House is a famous familyowned spot that has served soul food in New Orleans since 1957. The entrees include classic fried chicken, baked chicken, and the Willie Mae chicken sandwich. Keep an eye out for Willie Mae’s the next time you visit the Pythian Market. Multiple Locations, williemaesnola.com

SEAFOOD

Briquette is housed in the former Rodd Brothers Molasses Refinery, which dates from the 1800s. The restaurant is best known for its 18-foot-long seafood display. Choose from a multitude of seafood specialties like Caramelized Sea Scallops and Lump Crabmeat Napoleon to Halibut Fillet and Redfish on the Half Shell. 701 S. Peters St., 504-302-7496, briquette-nola.com Seaworthy is all about providing New Orleans with quality seafood. Mussels, scallops, Gulf shrimp, and oysters from the Gulf, East, and West Coasts are only some of the many different options available. Make sure to save room for a chocolate ricotta cheesecake or an apple hand pie for dessert. 630 Carondelet St., 504-930-3071, seaworthynola.com

Bywater Brew Pub is a recent addition to the Bywater culinary scene, but it’s already making waves! This full-scale brewery and restaurant mixes Cajun, Vietnamese, and Gastropub flavors. Try the yaka mein, Phởritto, or the Bánh Mì Burger. Save room for the ube bread pudding ice cream sundae. 3000 Royal St. 504-766-8118, bywaterbrewpub.com

Chef Ron’s Gumbo Shop has some of the best comfort food that you’ll find in Louisiana. Try the award-winning seafood gumbo, which contains crabmeat, crawfish, shrimp, tomato, and okra. Make sure to get the fried shrimp po-boy, boudin balls, fried green tomatoes, and the oyster platter. 2309 N. Causeway Blvd., 504-835-2022, gumbostop.com

Carreta’s Grill is a festive Mexican restaurant that serves jumbo margaritas. Order the “El Pepito” with carne asada or grilled chicken with rice, beans, and pico de gallo, or the “Los Rancheros” with two over easy eggs and a strip of carne asada, a corn tortilla, rice, beans, and pico de gallo. Multiple Locations, carretasgrillrestaurant.com

entrees include fried shrimp with fries and grilled catfish with boiled potatoes and string beans. From the Italian Specials submenu, there are meatballs and spaghetti, veal parmesan and spaghetti, and chicken parmesan and spaghetti. 3800 Canal St., 504-482-9179, mandinasrestaurant.com

Mandina’s Restaurant serves large portions of Italian and homestyle Creole seafood dishes. Some

Spahr’s Seafood, where catfish is king, is known for its Cajun and Creole Italian dishes. Choose from Spahr’s certified Louisiana wild seafood options like catfish chips, softshell crabs, and the shrimp platter. With several locations, you’re bound to get truly great flavors from Spahr’s Cajun comfort food. Multiple Locations, spahrsseafood.com

Orleans Grapevine creole. With even more pastas, seafood, and poboys also available, the options at Neyow’s make it more than worth your visit. 3332 Bienville St., 504-827-5474, neyows.com Orleans Grapevine is quality local wine bar. Housed in an early 1800s two story building, enjoy sipping on a glass of wine while dining on small plates like baked brie, angus medallions, shrimp remoulade, or a finely assorted cheese board. Ahi tuna and filet steaks are also available as entrees. 720 Orleans Ave., 504-523-1930, orleansgrapevine.com Please U Restaurant has been pleasing Uptown since 1946. They specialize in traditional New Orleans plates like gumbo, seafood platters, and red beans and rice. Please U is also well known for its all-day breakfast menu, which includes French toast, Belgian waffles, and a variety of omelets. 1751 St. Charles Ave., 504-525-9131, pleaseunola.com

Tito’s Ceviche & Pisco is the perfect place for something unique and flavorful. Specializing in Peruvian cuisine, start with any of Tito’s fresh ceviches, but the culinary adventure continues. With appetizers like grilled octopus and entrees like Lomo Saltado, it will transport you to Peru. 5015 Magazine St., 504-267-7612, titoscevichepisco.com The Galley Seafood is Metairie’s one stop shop for quality seafood. The restaurant’s soft-shell crab poboy and the catfish filet po-boy have been served at Jazz Fest since 1977. Catch a live concert via DVD from their collection while enjoying great boiled seafood. 2535 Metairie Rd., Metairie 504-832-0955, thegalleyseafood.net

WhereYat.com | September 2021

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Alto (Ace Hotel) 600 Carondelet St. 504-900-1180

Enjoy an amazing view of the city of New Orleans when you visit this rooftop garden, pool, and bar. You can snack on small plates with seasonal cocktails all day from 10 a.m. to 9 p.m.

Banks Street Bar 4401 Banks St. 504-486-0258

Live music, art, and refreshing drinks attract many to this Mid-City bar and grill. Their food menu features some New Orleans classics, including gumbo, red beans, and po-boys.

Bar Marilou 544 Carondelet St. 504-814-7711

Previously a library, Bar Marilou has a fun ambiance with specialty cocktails and small plates. The bar is also the perfect place to catch some live music or performances.

Bar Tonique 820 N. Rampart St. 504-324-6045

Bar Tonique offers $5 daily drink specials that highlight a popular hand-crafted cocktail. These drinks include a Pimm’s Cup, Moscow Mule, and Mai Tai.

The Basin Lakeview 152 W. Harrison Ave. 504-482-6066

This charming neighborhood bar is one of Lakeview’s favorites. Relax and enjoy its low-key atmosphere, as well as its Monday to Friday happy hour.

The Bulldog Various Locations 504-891-1516

With two locations in the New Orleans area, The Bulldog is a great place to try nearly 50 beers on-tap whether you’re Uptown or in Mid-City.

Golden Lantern 1239 Royal St. 504-529-2860 Jazz Daiquiris 3400 S. Claiborne Ave., # A 504-899-8761

This inclusive bar is known for its fun atmosphere, drag shows, live music, and daily drink specials. No matter how busy your schedule is, you will have time to enjoy their happy hour deals from 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. Jazz Daiquiris and Lounge has delicious specialty daiquiri flavors, including chicken and watermelon, fruit loop, and cotton candy. You can also enjoy their sports-themed daiquiris, some of which honor the LSU Tigers and Tulane Green Wave.

Jimani 141 Chartres St. 504-524-0493

Catch any sports game you desire at Jimani with over 100 beers, an expansive food menu, and 10 flat-screen televisions.

Lots A Luck Tavern 203 Homedale St. 504-483-0978

This casual Lakeview bar has all you could ask for. Their outdoor patio space is great for you to bring a pet, utilize their mini-golf course, and enjoy a few beers!

Manning’s 519 Fulton St. 504-593-8118

Located in the Warehouse District, this sports bar and grill provides patrons with a casual dining and drinking experience that is steps away from Harrah’s Casino.

Martine’s Lounge 2347 Metairie Rd. 504-831-8637

Indulge in pizza and snacks when visiting Martine’s Lounge. The cocktail bar offers happy hour daily from 4 p.m. to 7 p.m.

The Mercantile 727 S. Peters St. 504-558-1914

Home of the Cotton Candy Cocktail, The Mercantile Hotel has a craft cocktail bar for all guests and local New Orleanians to enjoy.

MRB 515 St. Philip St. 504-524-2558

MRB offers a casual atmosphere with games, live music, and art. You also can’t pass up their happy hour deals, which are held from 11 a.m. to midnight.

Pal’s Lounge 949 N. Rendon St. 504-488-7257

Rivershack Tavern 3449 River Rd. 504-834-4938

In addition to having delicious cocktails, Pal’s Lounge frequently hosts a variety of food trucks. You can grab a drink at the indoor bar before seeing which food truck is cooking up grub that day. Within walking distance of City Park, Parley’s has been a local favorite drinking hole for over 25 years. The local spot also boasts one of the longest bars in Orleans Parish at 60 feet in length. Inside the Sheraton Hotel, The Pelican Bar offers some delicious craft cocktails. The popular bar is just a few blocks from Jackson Square and is perfect for enjoying a drink during lunch or dinner. This neighborhood bar provides craft beer, cocktails, and Cajun cuisine for patrons to enjoy. Their daily specials, including Tequila & Tacos Tuesday, Welfare Wednesday, and Trivia Thursday, keep customers excited to return. Order some food from the kitchen while bartenders make you any drink you can think of at Rivershack Tavern. Besides regular cocktails, you can also try their specialty Riveritas, such as the Razzirita or Poncharita.

Royal Frenchmen Hotel 700 Frenchmen St., #1614 504-619-9660

This award-winning bar, inside the Royal Frenchmen Hotel, is a popular destination for martinis. To try out their signature drink, the bar offers a daily $5 Martini Happy Hour from 3 p.m. to 8 p.m.

Shenanigan’s 4612 Quincy St. 504-605-3299

Found in the heart of Metairie, Shenanigan’s has a full-service kitchen and bar. This is the perfect place to engage in shenanigans of your own by playing pool and throwing darts.

Stumpy’s Hatchet House 1200 Poydras St., Suite C 504-577-2937

Axe throwing at Stumpy’s Hatchet House will make any night more exciting! All groups can reserve their own private throwing pit, which makes this a great spot for parties and events. While walking along Bourbon Street, stop by one of the five Tropical Isle locations to order a famous Hand Grenade. Take your drink to-go or enjoy the live entertainment that is offered daily. Located inside the Hyatt Regency, Vitascope Hall is a bar that offers premium seafood and sushi. Besides the food, you can also have a drink while watching one of their 40+ television screens.

Parlay’s 870 Harrison Ave. 504-304-6338 The Pelican Bar (Sheraton) 500 Canal St. 504-525-2500 Rendon Inn 4501 Eve St. 504-218-7106

Tropical Isle Various Locations 504-529-4109 SKYY VODKA

Drink Food Specials

Vitascope Hall 601 Loyola Ave. 504-561-1234

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TALES FROM THE QUARTER

PO-BOY VIEWS

Returning Home

Sole Search or Shoe Whore

an you really go home again? That old adage about never being able to return has some truth in it—at least for me. Revisiting a place, be it my hometown, an old neighborhood, place of work, or a beloved business we once owned, always comes with great emotions. Whether I left such places willingly or by duress, there is a melancholy that hits me when returning. But sometimes an immersion is necessary and your new fit back depends on whether you rail against or revel in it. And most importantly, you have to accept that you are never going to replicate the past; instead, you are creating a new situation, life, on vaguely familiar turf. So there I was returning to my former home, my old stomping grounds—the Quarters. I was on my way to a new job at one of the few remaining family owned and operated small businesses and couldn’t be more delighted with my good fortune until we hit Decatur Street traffic. I was suddenly having “buyer’s remorse.” Did I really feel up to a return to the madness of the French Quarter on a busy tourist day? This was one of those first full-fledged days of “welcome back to post COVID life” with its throngs of people resembling a prison break, dressed in Bermuda shorts, t-shirts, and flip-flops. Too many people to visually digest, much less walk along with. Had I made a mistake? Was I done with crowds and doomed to shriek inside my head every time our Quarter is blessed with tourists eager to spend their money and give our local economy a much-needed boost? Had I changed too much from being a Quarterite to a neighborhood gal with the chirping of birds preferred over amped-up bipeds? My “home” for many years was the French Quarter, or as many fondly call her, The Quarters. When I first moved to New Orleans, I chose the Quarter and soon immersed myself in this hamlet, this world, this small city within the city. The long-time Quarterites back then would lament that it had changed so much, too much, but I don’t think they nor I knew just how much more it would weaken as a neighborhood. Oh sure, some lovely changes occurred (to my way of thinking) like the Woldenberg Park and the access to the river. Some buildings were saved, some tour buses rerouted, and the proliferation of tacky t-shirt shops were reigned in. Yet as the years passed, the tacky t-shirt entrepreneurs simply upped their game and gave us high-end “any mall, any town” gift shops with piped-in Cajun music to lure in the tourists. Meanwhile as you look up, you see the neglected third and fourth floors of these historic buildings and wonder how these treasures are allowed to rot. All the while the street-level unique and one-of-akind shops continue to disappear. Major

kudos to those locally owned and family run businesses (I have the privilege of working for one such family) that have remained loyal to The Quarters and congrats to the new culinary treasures that reflect the entrepreneurial spirit of creative endeavors. Hopefully these places will become the backbone of what must remain a meaningful, living and breathing, historical enclave able to generate new memories and stories. As I write this, I realize my loyalty and love for this neighborhood is still strong, yet I do feel like a fish out of water, a visitor only. The Quarters is truly its own microcosm, a minimetropolis within New Orleans. And if it becomes your home, then it will be imprinted upon you or you upon it. The Quarters became my home and was as personal to me as my hometown; in fact more so because I had chosen it myself. So when I moved away, I felt like I was leaving behind my New Orleans birthplace, my family. My departure came in two-parts. First part was a willing move from our Quarter apartment to a neighborhood close by. Yet we still felt imbedded since Husband and I continued to have our beloved shop and side jobs in the French Quarter, thus allowing us to remain a part of the fabric. But the shop’s landlord forced us out (extreme rent increase; sadly a common thing) and our restaurant gig ended when the owners retired (no shame, no blame). We had considered ourselves Quarterites by day and neighborhood folks with a yard by night. Now our Quarterite citizenship was gone…or so it felt. Our shop moved and, for the next five years, I was managing it seven days a week while Husband worked as a tour guide to support the shop (and us). I wouldn’t give up a single day of our business but I was tethered to it, and the Quarter became a mere memory. On rare occasions when visiting the Quarter, I felt overwhelmed and like I had lost my “sea legs” for navigating the crowds. Actually, the pandemic helped me to slowly regain my footing as the Quarter became a bit of a ghost town—eerie and sad yet softer and more yielding to my pace. Still the sense of returning to a former home where I was now a stranger nagged at me. Then one day recently, a former work buddy from 20-odd years ago hollered to me at Jackson Square. “Hey Debbie, been a minute since I’ve seen ya. You still have that shop on Toulouse?” Damn, for him, time hadn’t passed very far. In his mind, I still had my business and I didn’t look as old as I feel! He thought I had never left. Perhaps a part of me never did. Maybe I was home again. After all, isn’t that where the heart is?

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read a book when I was much younger (actually, I’ve read many books throughout my life as well when I was much younger); this one was about a boy my age, at the time 11 or 12, who had run away from a cruel orphanage and went and (not surprisingly) joined up with a circus! Well…the orphanage wants the boy back for further nefarious and malicious endeavors on his psyche, spirit, and fragile physique, and they send some goons out to find him. Big, mean, hulking, slobbering knuckle draggers wearing military storm boots and ill-fitting beige woolen suits, employed by the sinister reprobates that run the facility; they want the kid back. So they send out these thugs to find him, search for him until they do, and drag him back by the scruff of his neck or the heels of his feet, sadistically bruised and battered if necessary (at least that’s how I remember it). Well, the boy is happy as a clam with his new circus family. A cute and smart boy just like I was at that age; here he is taking a rest under a picnic table after a morning of cage cleaning, scoping out the crowds passing on their way to the Big Top and analyzing people’s footwear: farmhands, schoolboys, fancy ladies, and housewives; bankers, brokers, clodhoppers, and kids from the boondocks. And then he spots a pair of those prison guard boots walking by and he knows that the carefree days of cleaning up elephant poop and breakfasting with the clowns and high wire dames in tight clothing is in danger of coming to an abrupt end. A wild and wacky adventure ensues (naturally with a happy ending), and I’m left with a future of checking out what people wear on their feet as a past time and a habit in case someday some goons might come after me. Everybody’s gotta have shoes; when I was younger, there were gum chewing girls in Oxfords, penny loafers, or patent leather Mary Jane’s; bluster boys with tasseled slip-on’s, Buster Browns, Chuck Taylors or heavy leather Florsheims with cleats nailed on the heels to make arrogant sparks on the concrete outside the pool hall as they slouched by. Nurses in white polished sensible shoes, risky teenage girls in high heels, moms in mules around the house; father’s go-to work shoes, my go-to school shoes (hand me downs), and our Easter Sunday new “go-to church” shoes. I remember taking shoes to the cobbler for heels and soles (Cat’s Paw brand); my mother’s high heels for “lifts;” the smell of the glue and the pounding of nails into leather. There was a time when you could

tell an American abroad on vacation by their shoes (running shoes), and now when you see someone wearing Nike slip-ons in public, you know that they’re garnering “Street Cred.” Older guys with Velcro shoes mean that they cannot bend over; scruffy youngsters in hundred-dollar Birkenstocks, CT’s are still a hit, and Shoes for Crews de rigueur for restaurant workers. Sensible shoes on blue collar workers and durable boots on construction guys. Did I forget Doc Martins? Introduce me to someone and I will invariably and quite naturally look to see what they wear on their feet. As Forest Gump says, “You can tell a lot about a person by their shoes—where they’re goin’, where they’ve been.” I was attracted once to a woman because of her thigh high black boots (and, admittedly, her reputation of what she did in them). Shoes carry a stigma of class: the rich kids have fancy shoes and the poor kids go without. 1916 movie; a girl trades her virginity for a pair. And on and on and on. Here I will reveal that I am a shoe whore. I am aware of my footwear wherever I am; fuzzy slippers in the house and a closet that has talking shoe personalities: my high tops want to go for a stroll, my huaraches want to go to the beach, my Topsiders want to go to sea, my Capezios want to tango, and my Tony Lamas are ready to line dance. I have tan work boots and Kung Foo slip-ons; Birkenstocks, Vans, two-tone Zydeco dancers, and shined Cole Hann’s that are ready for an interview. In my past, I have unashamedly housed a variety of 20 plus pairs, again unashamedly, and there’s more that beckon me. I learned to “spit shine” shoes in the Navy, and I keep black, brown, and neutral cans of Kiwi polish with a rag and brushes, also a bottle of that liquid stuff, in case of an emergency. Pumps, flats, courts, or thongs, everybody needs shoes. Ever worn Tom McCanns or Keds? Ever fantasized about finding a princess with a glass slipper (or being one)? Do you know the story of The Red Shoes? Puss in Boots? Wizard of Oz? Maxwell Smart? I wonder why you never see what shoes someone is wearing in their casket (that’s weird, I know); but there’s an old gospel song that ends with, “When I get to Heaven, gonna put on my shoes, gonna walk all over God’s Heaven.” That’s not a bad visual for me. I’ll just have to specify in my will which shoes I’ll wear on that final journey.

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Articles inside

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CBD Shops to Visit in The Crescent City

Punks With Soul: NOLA’s Gutter Punk Culture

Sideline to Sideline Sportscaster Jen Hale Gives Back to NOLA

LSU Preview Purple & Gold Comeback

Nature Sights to Visit in the Baton Rouge Area

Restaurant Guide