WHERE Y'AT - Best of the Big Easy, SEPTEMBER Issue by Where Y'at Magazine

DINING • MUSIC • ENTERTAINMENT • NIGHTLIFE

September 2020 | WhereYat.com

Thank you for making us one of the Best Markets in town! Gracias por hacernos el Mejor Supermercado de la ciudad!

WhereYat.com | September 2020

CONTENTS September 2020 Publisher/Editor-in-Chief: Josh Danzig Creative Director: Matthew Desotell Executive Editor: Kathy Bradshaw

Features

Food & Drink

Best of the Big Easy Winners

$20 & Under

Being Sober in a Pandemic

Restaurant Guide

Fish Are Jumping

A College Kid’s Guide to NOLA

Jazz Museum at the U.S. Mint

New Orleans Pests Pt. 2

Contributing Writers: Emily Hingle, Kathy Bradshaw, Phil LaMancusa, Debbie Lindsey, Kim Ranjbar, Burke Bischoff, Steven Melendez, Kimmie Tubre, Julie Mitchell, Carolyn Heneghan, Eliana Blum, Camryn Cohen, Michelle Nicholson, Sabrina Stone Director of Sales: Stephen Romero Photographers & Designers: Gus Escanelle, Kathy Bradshaw, Kimmie Tubre, Emily Hingle, Victoria Conway, Kyla Veal Interns: Graham Andreae, John Glover, McKenna Smith, Sofia Gomez Alonso, Caroline Hebert, Clara Lacey, Bianca Soto, Amanda Gomez, Kyla Martinez

Extras 48

Movie Editors: David Vicari & Fritz Esker

Subscribe: Receive 1 year (14 issues) for $30 and get a FREE Where Y’at CD. Subscribe today at WhereYat.com.

Columns

Letter from the Publisher The readers of Where Y’at have voted, and the results are in. Enjoy this issue that shares the best that New Orleans has to offer in dining, shopping, and more. Been drinking too much booze during the pandemic? Carolyn Heneghan shares some super spots to get alcohol-free mocktails, while Emily Hingle’s piece on tea and Kim Ranjbar’s “$20 & Under” about coffee will keep you alert and refreshed. This issue is filled with things to do with your free time, including the ins and outs of fishing and a visit to the New Orleans Jazz Museum. Camryn Cohen shares fun activities around town for students and locals alike, while Michelle Nicolson takes us on a day trip to Camp Salmen Nature Park. With hurricanes presently in the Gulf, this issue coincides with the 15th anniversary of Hurricane Katrina. Columnists Debbie Lindsey and Phil LaMancusa both reflect on that traumatic period in the history of this great city. Plan ahead and stay safe! –Josh Danzig, Publisher

Best Of The Big Easy Issue | Where Y'at Magazine

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WhereYat.com | September 2020

2020 BEST OF THE BIG EASY

Readers' Picks NIGHTLIFE BEST DANCE CLUB 1. Ohm Lounge: 601 Tchoupitoulas St., ohmlounge.com 2. Republic NOLA: 828 S. Peters St., republicnola.com 3. The Metropolitan: 310 Andrew Higgins Blvd., themetronola.com

BEST DIVE BAR

1. Pal's Lounge: 949 N. Rendon St., palslounge.com 2. Snake and Jake's Christmas Club Lounge: 7612 Oak St., snakeandjakes.com 3. Ms. Mae's The Club: 4336 Magazine St., facebook. com/msmaesNOLA

BEST HAPPY HOUR

1. Lucy's Retired Surfers Bar & Restaurant: 701 Tchoupitoulas St., lucyssurf.com 2. Barcadia: 601 Tchoupitoulas St., barcadianeworleans.com 3. Bar Marilou: 544 Carondelet St., barmarilou.com

BEST BAR FOR HAND-CRAFTED COCKTAILS

1. Bar Tonique: 820 N. Rampart St., bartonique.com 2. Cure: 4905 Freret St., curenola.com 3. Cane & Table: 1113 Decatur St., caneandtable.com

BEST NEW BAR/CLUB 1.

5216 Table & Tap: 5216 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 5216tableandtap.com 2. Bar Marilou: 544 Carondelet St., barmarilou.com 3. Claret Wine and Cocktail Bar: 1320 Magazine St., claretnola.com

BEST LGBTQ BAR

1. Oz: 800 Bourbon St, ozneworleans.com 2. Golden Lantern: 1239 Royal St., facebook.com/ GoldenLanternBar 3. Corner Pocket: 940 St. Louis St., cornerpocket.net

BEST GENTLEMEN'S CLUB 1.

Penthouse Club: 727 Iberville St., penthouseclubneworleans.com 2. Rick's Cabaret: 315 Bourbon St., rickscabaretnola.com 3. Larry Flynt's Hustler Club New Orleans: 225 Bourbon St., neworleanshustlerclub.com

BEST IRISH PUB 1.

Finn McCool's Irish Pub: 3701 Banks St., finnmccools. com 2. Mick's Irish Pub: 4801 Bienville St., facebook.com/ micksirishpubneworleans 3. Kerry Irish Pub: 331 Decatur St., facebook.com/KerryIrish-Pub

BEST PLACE TO GET A BLOODY MARY 1.

Daisy Duke's: Multiple Locations, daisydukesrestaurant.com 2. The Ruby Slipper Café: Multiple Locations, therubyslippercafe.com 3. Atchafalya Restaurant: 901 Louisiana Ave., atchafalayarestaurant.com

BEST PLACE TO GET A MARGARITA 1.

El Paso Mexican Grill: Multiple Locations, elpasomexrestaurant.com 2. El Gato Negro: Multiple Locations, elgatonegronola. com 3. Felipe's Mexican Taqueria: Multiple Locations, felipestaqueria.com

BEST PLACE TO GET A MOJITO

1. St. Joe's Bar: 5535 Magazine St, stjoesbar.com 2. The Rum House Carribean Taqueria: 3128 Magazine St., therumhouse.com 3. Manolito, 508 Dumaine St., manolitonola.com

BEST PLACE TO DRINK WINE

1. Copper Vine: 1001 Poydras St, coppervinewine.com 2. Bacchanal Wine: 600 Poland Ave., bacchanalwine.com 3. Orleans Grapevine: 720 Orleans Ave., orleansgrapevine.com

BEST SPORTS BAR

1. Walk On's: Multiple Locations, walk-ons.com 2. Manning's Sports Bar & Grill: 519 Fulton St., caesars. com/harrahs-new-orleans/restaurants/manningssports-bar-and-grill 3. Cooter Brown's: 509 S. Carrollton Ave., cooterbrowns. com

BEST UPSCALE BAR

1. Bar Marilou: 544 Carondelet St., barmarilou.com 2. Cure: 4905 Freret St., curenola.com 3. Arnaud's French 75: 813 Bienville St., arnaudsrestaurant.com

BEST HOTEL BAR

1. Columns Hotel: 3811 St. Charles Ave., thecolumns.com 2. Carousel Bar: Hotel Monteleone, 214 Royal St., hotelmonteleone.com 3. Sazerac Bar: The Roosevelt Hotel, 130 Roosevelt Way, therooseveltneworleans.com

Best Of The Big Easy Issue | Where Y'at Magazine

BEST BAR (MID-CITY) 1. Wrong Iron on the Greenway: 3532 Toulouse St., wrongiron.com Calling itself “a New Orleans-style beer garden located in the heart of Mid-City along the Lafitte Greenway,” Wrong Iron is the perfect spot to grab a beer, a burger, and a bench in their massive outdoor tree-lined courtyard. 2. Pal's Lounge: 949 N. Rendon St., facebook.com/ PalsLounge 3. The Bulldog Mid-City: 5135 Canal St., bulldogmidcity.draftfreak.com

WhereYat.com | September 2020

2020

BEST OF THE BIG EASY

Readers' Picks

BEST PLACE TO DRINK BREWED BEER 2. Pat O' Brien's: 718 St. Peter St.,

patobriens.com Dixie Brewing Company: 3501 Jourdan Rd., dixiebeer.com 3. Lafitte's Blacksmith Shop Bar: 941 Bourbon St., lafittesblacksmithshop.com 2. NOLA Brewing: 3001 Tchoupitoulas St., nola-brewing.square.site 3. Abita Brewery: 72011 Holly St., Abita BEST BAR (WESTBANK) Springs, abita.com 1. Gattuso's: 435 Huey P. Long Ave., Gretna, gattusos.net BEST BEER SELECTION 2. Old Point Bar: 545 Patterson Rd., 1. The Bulldog: Multiple Locations, Algiers Point, oldpointbarnola.com draftfreak.com 3. The Crown & Anchor English 2. The Avenue Pub: 1732 St. Charles Ave., Pub: 200 Pelican Ave., Algiers Point, theavenuepub.com crownandanchor.pub 3. Wrong Iron on the Greenway: 3532 Toulouse St., wrongiron.com 1.

BEST ROOFTOP BAR

1. Alto Rooftop Bar & Pool: Ace Hotel New Orleans, 600 Carondelet St., acehotel. The Jazz Playhouse: 300 Bourbon St., com/neworleans/food-and-drink/alto sonesta.com/us/louisiana/new-orleans/ royal-sonesta-new-orleans/jazz2. Hot Tin: Pontchartrain Hotel, 2031 St. playhouse Charles Ave., hottinbar.com 2. Snug Harbor Jazz Bistro: 626 3. Monkey Board: The Troubadour Frenchmen St., snugjazz.com Hotel, 1111 Gravier St., monkeyboardnola.com 3. The Spotted Cat: 623 Frenchmen St., spottedcatmusicclub.com

BEST JAZZ CLUB 1.

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TRY OUR SEAFOOD

• Oyster • Catfish • Crawfish • Soft Shell Crab • Shrimp • & More

BUY 1, GET 1 25% OFF of equal or lesser value, one coupon per customer per day not valid with other offers, po-boys and gumbo only.

Expires September 30, 2020

Best Of The Big Easy Issue | Where Y'at Magazine

BEST MUSIC CLUB

SHOPPING

BEST BAR (BYWATER/MARIGNY)

2. Perlis Clothing: Multiple Locations, perlis.com 3. Friend: Ace Hotel New Orleans, 600 Carondelet St., friendneworleans

House of Blues: 225 Decatur St., houseofblues.com/neworleans BEST BIKE SHOP 2. Tipitina's: 501 Napoleon Ave., tipitinas. 1. GNO Cyclery: 1426 S. Carrollton Ave., com gnocyclery.com 3. The Fillmore: 6 Canal St., fillmorenola.com 2. Bicycle World: 701 Jefferson Hwy., bicycleworldla.com BEST PLACE TO PLAY BAR GAMES 1. Fulton Alley: 600 Fulton St., fultonalley. 3. Bayou Bikes: 3530 Toulouse St., com bayoubicycles.com 2. Shamrock: 4133 S. Carrollton Ave., shamrockparty.com BEST MEN'S CLOTHING 3. Loft 18: 3128 Metairie Rd., Metairie, 1. Rubensteins: 102 St. Charles Ave., loft18.com rubensteinsneworleans.com

1. The Country Club: 634 Louisa St., thecountryclubneworleans.com 2. Kajun's Pub: 2256 St. Claude Ave., BEST WOMEN'S CLOTHING kajunpub.com 1. Hemline: Multiple Locations, 3. Carnaval Lounge: 2227 St. Claude Ave., shophemline.com carnavallounge.com 2. Trashy Diva: Multiple Locations, trashydiva.com BEST BAR (UPTOWN) 3. Swoon Boutique: 130 Harrison Ave., 1. Le Bon Temps Roule: 4801 Magazine swoonboutiquenola.com St., lbtrnola.com 2. Cure: 4905 Freret St., curenola.com BEST SMOKE SHOP 3. St. Joe's Bar: 5535 Magazine St., 1. Ra Shop: Multiple Locations, rashop.us stjoesbar.com 2. The Herb Import Company: Multiple Locations, herbimport.com BEST BAR (FRENCH QUARTER) 3. The Mushroom: 1037 Broadway St., 1. Tropical Isle: Multiple Locations, mushroomneworleans.com tropicalisle.com

BEST ADULT NOVELTY STORE

BEST SUPERMARKET

1. Mr. Binky's Boutique: 107 Chartres St., mrbinkys.com 2. Hustler Hollywood: 111 Bourbon St., hustlerhollywoodstores.com 3. Paradise Adult Video & Books: 5608 Heebe St., facebook.com/ paradiseadultvideoelmwood

1. Rouses: Multiple Locations, rouses.com 2. Ideal Market: Multiple Locations, idealmarket.com 3. Whole Foods: Multiple Locations, wholefoodsmarket.com

BEST VINTAGE CLOTHING STORE 1. Buffalo Exchange: 4119 Magazine St., buffaloexchange.com 2. Funky Monkey: 3127 Magazine St., funkymonkeynola.com 3. Century Girl Vintage: 2023 Magazine St., centurygirlvintage.com

BEST PLACE TO BUY WINE/LIQUOR 1. Dorginac's: 710 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, dorignacs.com 2. Martin's Wine Cellar: Multiple Locations, martinwine.com 3. Total Wine & More: 3780 Veterans Memorial Blvd. Metairie, totalwine.com

BEST TATTOO/PIERCING PARLOR

1. Aart Accent Tattoos: 1041 N. Rampart St., bestprosintown.com/la/new-orleans/ 1. Nikki's French Quarter Halloween aart-accent-tattoos-and-piercings Store: 107 Chartres St. B., facebook.com/ 2. Downtown Tattoo: 501 Frenchmen St., NikkisFrenchQuarterHalloweenStore downtowntattoosnola.com 2. Uptown Costume & Dance: 3. Tattoo A Go-Go: 4421 Magazine St., 4326 Magazine St., facebook.com/ tattooagogo.com uptowncostumeanddancewear 3. Humbug Costumes: 2707 Williams Blvd., BEST ATHLETIC CLUB Kenner, humbugcostumes.com 1. New Orleans Jewish Community Center (JCC): Multiple Locations, nojcc. BEST RECORD SHOP org 1. The Mushroom: 1037 Broadway St., 2. Oschner Fitness Center: Multiple themushroomnola.com Locations, ochsnerfitness.com 2. Louisiana Music Factory: 421 Frenchmen 3. Downtown Fitness Center: 365 Canal St., louisianamusicfactory.com St. #380, downtownfitnesscenter.com 3. Peaches Records: 4318 Magazine St., peachesrecordsandtapes.com

BEST COSTUME SHOP

BEST BAR (CBD/WAREHOUSE DISTRICT) 1. Barcadia: 601 Tchoupitoulas St., barcadianeworleans.com. This bar is not only known for its selection of 44 craft beers, but it is also home to some award-winning gourmet burgers, giant Jenga and Connect Four games, seating on the porch, and a whole slew of arcade games. 2. Lucy's Retired Surfers Bar & Restaurant: 701 Tchoupitoulas St.,

lucysretiredsurfers.com 3. Ernst CafÃ©: 600 S Peters St., ernstcafe.com

WhereYat.com | September 2020

BEST PET STORE 1. Jefferson Feed: Multiple Locations, jeffersonfeed.com With their newest location in Metairie on Veterans Memorial Boulevard, locally owned Jefferson Feed has great customer service that will help you find whatever you need for your pets or for your garden. 2. Petco: Multiple Locations, petco.com 3. PetSmart: Multiple Locations, petsmart.com

BEST BOUTIQUE FITNESS STUDIO

BEST CAR DEALERSHIP

1. Pure Barre: Multiple Locations, purebarre.com 2. Orange Theory: Multiple Locations, orangetheory.com 3. Romney Studios, 5619 Magazine St., romneystudios.com

1. Lamarque Auto: 3099 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 3101 Williams Blvd., Kenner, lamarque.com 2. Ray Brandt Auto Group: Multiple Locations, raybrandtauto.com 3. Premier Automotive, Multiple Locations, premierautomotive.com

BEST GOLF COURSE

BEST VAPE SHOP

Audubon Park Golf Course: 6500 Magazine 1. Calhoun Trading Co., 3137 Calhoun St., St., audubonnatureinstitute.org/golf calhounvapor.com 2. Bayou Oaks at City Park: 1051 Filmore 2. Crescent City Vape: Multiple Locations, Ave., filmoreintheoaks.com crescentcityvape.com 3. English Turn: 1 Clubhouse Dr, englishturn.com 3. Vape On: Multiple Locations, facebook. com/vapeon2505

BEST BANK 1. First American Bank and Trust: Multiple Locations, fabt.com 2. Fidelity Bank: Multipe Locations, bankwithfidelity.com 3. Hancock Whitney, Multiple Locations, hancockwhitney.com

BEST BRIDAL SHOP 1. Town and Country: 1514 St. Charles Ave., townandcountrybridal.com 2. Wedding Belles: 3632 Magazine St., weddingbellesnola.com 3. Pearl's Place, 3114 Severn Ave, Metairie, pearlsplace.com

Best Of The Big Easy Issue | Where Y'at Magazine

BEST PET SERVICES 1. Petcetera: 3205 Magazine St., petceteranola.com 2. Pawlins: 3501 River Rd., Jefferson, pawlins.com 3. Zeus' Place: Multiple Locations, zeusplace.com

BEST WEDDING VENUE 1. English Turn: 1 Clubhouse Dr., englishturn.com 2. The Crossing: 519 Williams Blvd. Kenner, the-crossing.com 3. The Chicory: 610 S. Peters St., chicoryvenue.com

BEST KIDS SPOT

BEST VAPE SHOP

1. Audubon Zoo: 6500 Magazine St., audubonnatureinstitute.org 2. Louisiana Children's Museum: 15 Henry Thomas Dr., lcm.org 3. Audubon Aquarium: 1 Canal St., audubonnatureinstitute.org/aquarium

Calhoun Trading Co., 3137 Calhoun St., calhounvapor.com 2. Crescent City Vape: Multiple Locations, crescentcityvape.com 3. Vape On: Multiple Locations, facebook. com/vapeon2505

BEST EYEGLASS SHOP

THE ARTS

Art & Eyes: 3708 Magazine St., artandeyesneworleansla.com 2. St. Charles Vision: 8040 St. Charles Ave., facebook.com/pages/St-CharlesVision 3. Krewe: Multiple Locations, krewe.com

BEST SPA 1.

Woodhouse Day Spa: Multiple Locations, neworleans.woodhousespas.com 2. Earthsavers: Multiple Locations, earthsaversonline.com 3. The Ritz Carlton Spa: 921 Canal St., ritzcarlton.com

BEST HAIR SALON 1. Paris Parker Aveda Salons & Spas: Multiple Locations, parisparker.com 2. Stardust Salon & Day Spa: 1904 Magazine St., stardustsalon.com 3. Carpe Diem Hair Salon: Multiple Locations, carpediemsalons.com

BEST ART GALLERY 1.

Galerie Rue Royale: 541 Royal St., frenchartnetwork.com 2. Jonathan Ferrara Gallery: 400A Julia St., jonathanferraragallery.com 3. Arthur Roger Gallery: 432 Julia St., arthurrogergallery.com

BEST LOCAL ARTIST 1.

Becky Fos: Multiple Locations, beckyfos. com 2. Frenchy: 8328 Oak St., frenchylive.com 3. Terrance Osborne: 3029 Magazine St., terranceosborne.com

BEST MUSEUM 1.

The National WWII Museum: 945 Magazine St., nationalww2museum.org 2. New Orleans Museum of Art: 1 Collins Diboll Cir., noma.org 3. New Orleans Jazz Museum: 400 Esplanade Ave., nolajazzmuseum.org

THANK

YOU

LAKEVIEW.

FOR VOTING US ONE OF YOUR FAVS!

BEST THRIFT STORE 1. Goodwill Industries of Southeastern Louisiana, Multiple

Locations, goodwillno.org

Clean out your closet for a cause: At Goodwill, your donations will not only clothe those in need, but they will also help people with disabilities or other barriers to increase their economic stability through training, education, support services, and employment. 2. The Salvation Army: Multiple Locations, satruck.org 3. Bridge House Thrift Store, Multiple Locations, bridgehouse.org

See You At Our New 2nd Location in Metairie Opening in September. 911 HARRISON AV. 3322 N. TURNBULL DR. [IN SEPT.] 249-8025 THREEBS.COM WhereYat.com | September 2020

DONâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;T MISS THE FALL RESTAURANT GUIDE DEADLINE: SEPT 15 STREET DATE: SEPT 20

Call [504] 891-0144 to Advertise! 12

Best Of The Big Easy Issue | Where Y'at Magazine

BEST BRUNCH SPOT 1. Bearcat Café: Multiple Locations, bearcatcafe.com In addition to offering high-quality breakfast and lunch—with lighter “Good Cat” options and richer “Bad Cat” fare—Bearcat Café also sells sustainably micro-sourced coffee from Equator Coffee, as well as bottled beverages that they make in-house.

GROOMING PET SITTING TOYS DOG BAKERY COLLARS CLOTHES

2. Surrey's: Multiple Locations, surreysnola.com 3.

BEDS NATURAL FOOD

Willa Jean: 611 O'Keefe Ave., willajean.com

ACCESSORIES PORTRAITS AVAILABLE! 3205 Magazine St. | 504-269-8711

Petceteranola.com

COME CELEBRATE OUR 19TH ANNIVERSARY!

DINING Anybody can buy frozen meat... At Felipe’s, we’re not just anybody.

BEST DAILY SPECIALS 1. Joey K's: 3001 Magazine St., joeyksrestaurant.com 2. Mandina's Restaurant: 3800 Canal St., mandinasrestaurant.com 3. Cowbell: 8801 Oak St., cowbell-nola.com

BEST RESTAURANT (FRENCH QUARTER) 1. Antoine's Restaurant: 713 St. Louis St., antoines.com 2. Galatoire's Restaurant: 209 Bourbon St., galatoires.com 3. Broussard's Restaurant & Courtyard: 819 Conti St., broussards.com

BEST RESTAURANT (MARIGNY/ BYWATER) 1.

Bywater American Bistro: 2900 Chartres St., bywateramericanbistro.com 2. Marigny Brasserie: 640 Frenchmen St., marignybrasserie.com 3. Pizza Delicious: 617 Piety St., pizzadelicious.com

BEST RESTAURANT (UPTOWN) 1.

Pascal's Manale: 1838 Napoleon Ave., pascalsmanale.com 2. Shaya: 4213 Magazine St., shayarestaurant.com 3. Clancy's: 6100 Annunciation St., clancysneworleans.com

BEST RESTAURANT (CBD/ WAREHOUSE DISTRICT) 1. Sofia NOLA: 516 Julia St., sofianola.com 2. Compère Lapin: 535 Tchoupitoulas St., comperelapin.com 3. Luke: 333 St. Charles Ave., lukeneworleans.com

BEST RESTAURANT (MID-CITY) 1. Mandina's: 3800 Canal St., mandinasrestaurant.com 2. Venezia: 134 N. Carrollton Ave., venezianeworleans.net 3. Café Degas: 3127 Esplanade Ave., cafedegas.com

Felipe’s is a family-owned business based in New Orleans. Place your order for takeout or delivery at felipestaqueria.com MID CITY

UPTOWN

FRENCH QUARTER

(504) 408-2626 411 N Carrollton Ave

(504) 309-2776 6215 S Miro St

(504) 267-4406 301 N Peters St

@felipesnola

WhereYat.com | September 2020

THANK YOU WHERE Y’AT READERS!

BEST CAFÉ 1. Caffe! Caffe!: Multiple Locations, caffecaffe.com Caffe! Caffe! is a Metairie go-to with two locations to find your fixing for wonderful salads, wraps, and Eat Fit items, as well as fantastic coffee brewed to order. 2. Satsuma Café: Multiple Locations, satsumacafe.com 3. The High Hat Cafe: 4500 Freret St., highhatcafe.com

BEST RESTAURANT (LAKEVIEW) 1. Velvet Cactus: 6300 Argonne Blvd., thevelvetcactus.com 2. Three B's Burger & Wine Bar: 911 Harrison Ave, threebs.com 3. Sala: 124 Lake Marina Ave., salanola. com

BEST RESTAURANT (WESTBANK) In the wake of Japan’s attack, American soldiers marched into battle while citizens rallied on the Home Front. In ration lines and victory gardens and factories across the United States, they built an arsenal of democracy. Experience how the Home Front supported the front lines and helped win the war—at The Arsenal of Democracy, a permanent exhibit at The National WWII Museum.

BEST RESTAURANT (METAIRIE) 1. Boulevard American Bistro: 4241 Veterans Memorial Blvd., Metairie, boulevardbistro.com 2. Austin's Seafood & Steakhouse: 5101 W. Esplanade Ave., Metairie, mredsrestaurants.com 3. Chef Ron's Gumbo Stop: 2309 N. Causeway Blvd., Metairie, gumbostop. com

#1 ATTRACTION IN NEW ORLEANS #3 MUSEUM IN THE UNITED STATES #8 MUSEUM IN THE WORLD

ANDREW HIGGINS DRIVE BETWEEN CAMP AND MAGAZINE STREETS 504-528-1944 | NATIONALWW2MUSEUM.ORG

19-0234_AOD_WhereYat_4.78x10.75_NObleed_r2.indd 1

Best Of The Big Easy Issue | Where Y'at Magazine

1. Cafe 615 (Home of Da Wabbit): 615 Kepler St., Gretna, cafe615.com 2. Mosca's: 4137 US-90 West., Westwego, moscasrestaurant.com 3. Restaurant des Families: 7163 Barataria Blvd., Marrero, desfamilles.com

BEST UPSCALE RESTAURANT 1. Restaurant August: 301 Tchoupitoulas St., restaurantaugust.com 5/29/19 1:54 PM

2. Commander's Palace: 1403 Washington Ave., commanderspalace.com 3. Broussard's Restaurant & Courtyard: 819 Conti St., broussards.com

BEST BAKERY 1. Maple Street Patisserie: 7638 Maple St., cargocollective.com/ maplestreetpatisserie 2. La Boulangerie: 4600 Magazine St., laboulangerienola.com 3. Breads on Oak: 8640 Oak St., breadsonoak.com

BEST DELI 1. Kosher Cajun NY Deli & Grocery: 3519 Severn Ave., Metairie, koshercajun.com 2. Stein's Market: 2207 Magazine St., steinsdeli.com 3. Martin's Wine Cellar: Multiple Locations, martinwine.com

BEST PLACE TO GET A SALAD 1. Max Well: 6101 Magazine St, maxwellneworleans.com 2. St. James Cheese Company: Multiple Locations, stjamescheese. com 3. City Greens: Multiple Locations, eatcitygreens.com

BEST RESTAURANT FOR DESSERT

BEST DINER

1. Willa Jean: 611 O'Keefe Ave., willajean.com 1. Slim Goodies Diner: 3322 Magazine St., slimgoodiesdiner.com 2. Commander's Palace: 1403 Washington Ave., commanderspalace.com 2. Dot's Diner: Multiple Locations, 3. Restaurant R'evolution: 777 Bienville dotsdiner.com St., revolutionnola.com 3. Camelia Grill: 626 S. Carrollton Ave., facebook.com/pages/Camellia-Grill

BEST OUTDOOR DINING

1. Court of Two Sisters: 613 Royal St., BEST CHINESE RESTAURANT courtoftwosisters.com 1. Five Happiness: 3605 S. Carrollton 2. Café Amelie: 912 Royal St., cafeamelie.com Ave., facebook.com/5happiness 3. Velvet Cactus: 6300 Argonne Blvd., 2. Dian Xin: 1218 Decatur St., thevelvetcactus.com dianxinnola.com

BEST ROMANTIC DATE SPOT 1. Bombay Club: 830 Conti St., bombayclubneworleans.com 2. Shaya: 4213 Magazine St., shayarestaurant.com 3. Lilette: 3637 Magazine St., liletterestaurant.com

BEST BREAKFAST SPOT 1. The Ruby Slipper Cafe: Multiple Locations, therubyslippercafe.net 2. Surrey's: Multiple Locations, surreysnola.com 3. Toast: Multiple Locations, toastneworleans.com

3. Hoshun: 1601 St. Charles Ave., hoshunrestaurant.com

BEST JAPANESE RESTAURANT 1. Daiwa Sushi Bar & Japanese Cuisine: Multiple Locations, daiwasushi.com 2. Mikimoto: 3301 S. Carrollton Ave., mikimotosushi.com 3. Tsunami: 601 Poydras Street Ste. B., servingsushi.com/new_orleans

SMOKED BURGERS, CHICKEN, PASTA, SALADS & MORE!

BEST FAST-CASUAL RESTAURANT 1. Liberty Cheesesteaks: 5041 Freret St., libertycheesesteaks.com This Freret Street sandwich shop is a favorite among Uptowners and university students looking for straightforward Philadelphia-style fast-food classics. 2. Felipe's Mexican Taqueria: Multiple Locations, felipestaqueria.com 3. Dat Dog: Multiple Locations, datdog.com

2740 SEVERN AVE., METAIRIE, LA • 504.353.4227 WWW.THEDUKERESTAURANT.COM WhereYat.com | September 2020

BEST AFRICAN RESTAURANT 1. Bennachin: 1212 Royal St., bennachinrestaurant.com

Inspired by the food of Gambia and Cameroon, Bennachin has amazing African cuisine, with plenty of options for vegans, and is an established vendor at Jazz Fest every year. 2. Jamila's Cafe: 7808 Maple St., jamilascafe.com 3. Cafe Abyssinia: 3511 Magazine St., cafeabyssinianola.com

BEST THAI RESTAURANT

BEST CAJUN RESTAURANT

1. Sukho Thai: Multiple locations, sukhothai-nola.com 2. Banana Blossom: 500 9th St., Gretna, facebook.com/b,ananablossom504 3. CafÃ© Equator Thai Cuisine, 2920 Severn Ave, Metairie, cafeequator.com

1. Cochon: 930 Tchoupitoulas St., Suite A, cochonrestaurant.com

BEST VIETNAMESE RESTAURANT

Best Of The Big Easy Issue | Where Y'at Magazine

2. Jaques-Imo's: 8324 Oak St., jacquesimos.com 3. Mulate's: 201 Julia St., mulates.com

BEST AFRICAN RESTAURANT 1. Bennachin: 1212 Royal St., bennachinrestaurant.com

1. Tan Dinh: 1705 Lafayette St., Gretna, tandinhnola.com 2. Dong Phuong: 14207 Chef Menteur Hwy., dpbakeshop.com 3. Lilly's Cafe: 1813 Magazine St., facebook.com/LillysCafe

2. Jamila's Cafe: 7808 Maple St., jamilascafe.com

BEST BBQ RESTAURANT

BEST INDIAN RESTAURANT

3. Cafe Abyssinia: 3511 Magazine St., cafeabyssinianola.com

1. Blue Oak BBQ: 900 N. Carrollton Ave., blueoakbbq.com 2. Central City BBQ: 1201 S. Rampart St., centralcitybbq.com 3. The Joint: 701 Mazant St., alwayssmokin.com

BEST ITALIAN RESTAURANT

BEST MEXICAN RESTAURANT

1. Vincent's: Multiple Locations, vincentsitaliancuisine.com 2. Venezia: 134 N. Carrollton Ave., venezianeworleans.net 3. Tommy's Cuisine: 746 Tchoupitoulas St., tommyscuisine.com

2. El Paso Mexican Grill: Multiple Locations, elpasolouisiana.com

1. Nirvana Indian Cuisine: 4308 Magazine St., insidenirvana.com Saffron: 4128 Magazine St., saffronnola.com

3. Taj Mahal: 923 Metairie Rd., Metairie, tajnola.com

1. Carreta's Grill: Multiple Locations, carretasgrillrestaurant.com

3. El Gato Negro: Multiple Locations, elgatonegronola.com

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BEST MIDDLE EASTERN RESTAURANT 1. Lebanon's Café: 1500 S. Carrollton Ave., lebanonscafe.com

Offering an inviting atmosphere and an extensive menu, Lebanon’s serves some of the best Middle Eastern food in the city, including delicious hummus, kabobs, falafel, and Greek salads. 2. Mona's Cafe: 3901 Banks St., monascafeanddeli.com 3. Tal's Hummus: 4800 Magazine St., ordertalsonline.com

BEST FRENCH RESTAURANT 1.

BEST LATIN AMERICAN RESTAURANT

Café Degas: 3127 Esplanade Ave., cafedegas.com 2. La Crêpe Nanou: 1410 Robert St., lacrepenanou.com 3. Vyoone's: 412 Girod St., vyoone.com

2. Maïs Arepas: 1200 Carondelet St., facebook.com/maisarepas

BEST SEAFOOD RESTAURANT

3. Manolito: 508 Dumaine St., manolitonola.com

Thank You to the Readers of Where Y’at For Voting Us Best Deli! Serving Greater New Orleans Since 1987!

3519 Severn in Metairie KosherCajun.com 504-888-2010

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Deanie's Seafood: Multiple Locations, deanies.com 2. Felix's Restaurant & Oyster Bar, Multiple Locations, felixs.com 3. Briquette: 701 S. Peters St., briquettenola.com

1. Tito's Ceviche & Pisco: 5015 Magazine St., titoscevichepisco.com

BEST RESTAURANT FOR BOILED SEAFOOD

BEST BAR FOOD 1. Buffa's Bar & Restaurant: 1001 Esplanade Ave., buffasrestaurant.com 2. Kingfish Kitchen & Cocktails: 337 Chartres St., kingfishneworleans.com 3. Cooter Brown's: 509 S. Carrollton Ave., cooterbrowns.com

The Galley Seafood Restaurant: 2535 Metairie Rd., Metairie, 832-0955, facebook. BEST COFFEE SHOP com/The-Galley-Seafood-Restaurant 1. PJ's Coffee: Multiple Locations, 2. Deanie's Seafood: Multiple Locations, pjscoffee.com deanies.com 2. CC's Coffee House: Multiple 3. Bevi Seafood: Multiple Locations, Locations, ccscoffee.com beviseafoodco.com 3. French Truck Coffee: Multiple Locations, frenchtruckcoffee.com

BEST STEAKHOUSE 1.

Crescent City Steakhouse: 1001 N. Broad St., crescentcitysteaks.com 2. The Steakhouse at Harrah's New Orleans: 228 Poydras St., caesars.com/ harrahs-new-orleans/restaurants/thesteakhouse 3. Ruth's Chris: Multiple Locations, ruthschris.com/restaurant-locations/neworleans

BEST VEGETARIAN MENU 1. Carmo: 527 Julia St., cafecarmo.com 2. True Food Kitchen: 801 St. Charles Ave., truefoodkitchen.com 3. Daily Beet: Multiple Locaitons, dailybeetnola.com

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BEST CREOLE RESTAURANT 1. Neyow's Creole Café: 3332 Bienville St., neyows.com

For authentic Creole cuisine that’s sure to put a smile on your face, head to this Mid-City hot spot for their signature garlic gutter oysters, great gumbo, and Jazzy Wings. 2. Dooky Chase's Restaurant: 2301 Orleans Ave., dookychaserestaurant.com 3. Dunbar's Creole Cuisine: 7834 Earhart Blvd, facebook.com/ DunbarsCreoleCuisine

BEST VEGAN MENU

BEST WINGS

1. WOW Café: Multiple Locations, wowamericaneats.com

Seed: 1330 Prytania St., seedneworleans. com 2. Bearcat Cafe: 2521 Jena St., bearcatcafe. com 3. Max Well: 6101 Magazine St., maxwellneworleans.com

2. Bayou Hotwings: 6221 S. Claiborne Ave., bayouhotwings.com

BEST ROAST BEEF PO-BOY

BEST FRIED CHICKEN

Tracey's Original Irish Channel Bar: 2604 Magazine St., traceysnola.com 2. Parasol's: 2533 Constance St., facebook. com/ParasolsNOLA 3. Parran's Po-Boys & Restaurant: Multiple Locations, parranspoboys.com

BEST SHRIMP PO-BOY 1.

Short Stop Poboys: 119 Transcontinental Dr., Metairie, shortstoppoboysno.com 2. Melba's Poboys: 1525 Elysian Fields Ave., melbas.com 3. Guy's Po-Boys: 5259 Magazine St, facebook.com/guyspoboysnola

BEST OYSTER PO-BOY 1.

3. Hooters: Multiple Locations, hootersoflouisiana.com

1. Willie Mae's Scotch House: Multiple Locations, williemaesnola.com 2. The Original Fiorella's Cafe: 5325 Franklin Ave., originalfiorellas.com 3. Dooky Chase's Restaurant: 2301 Orleans Ave., dookychaserestaurant.com

BEST HAMBURGER 1. Port of Call: 838 Esplanade Ave., portofcallnola.com 2. The Company Burger: Multiple Locations, thecompanyburger.com 3. Atomic Burger: 3934 Veterans Memorial Blvd., Metairie, theatomicburger.com

Parkway Bakery & Tavern: 538 Hagan BEST NEW RESTAURANT Ave., parkwaypoorboys.com 1. NOLA Caye: 898 Baronne St., 2. Domilise's Po-Boy and Bar: 5240 NOLAcaye.com Annunciation St., domilisespoboys.com 2. Elle-J's Lakeview: 900 Harrison Ave., 3. Mahony's Original Po-Boys & Seafood: ElleJsLakeview.com Multiple Locations, mahonyspoboys.com 3. Palm & Pine: 308 N. Rampart St., PalmandPineNola.com

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Voted by Where Yâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;at Readers

B EST COFFEE SHOP 10 Consecutive Years

PJSCOFFEE.COM

/PJSCOFFEE

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BEST SUSHI 1. Mikimoto Restaurant: 3301 S. Carrollton Ave., mikimotosushi.com

Mikimoto’s drive-thru window, convenient delivery options, and specialty rolls like the “Uptown Roll” make it an excellent spot to satisfy your sushi cravings. 2. Daiwa Sushi Bar & Japanese Cuisine: Multiple Locations, daiwasushi.com 3. Origami: 5130 Freret St., origaminola.com

BEST PASTA

BEST ICE CREAM/GELATO

1. Venezia: 134 N. Carrollton Ave., venezianeworleans.net 2. Josephine Estelle: Ace Hotel New Orleans, 600 Carondelet St., josephineestelle.com 3. Andrea's: 3100 19th St., Metairie, andreasrestaurant.com

1. Angelo Brocato's: 214 N. Carrollton Ave., angelobrocatoicecream.com 2. The Creole Creamery: Multiple Locations, creolecreamery.com 3. Freezy Street: 2633 St. Claude Ave., freezystreet.com

BEST TACO/BURRITO 1. Felipe's Mexican Taqueria: Multiple Locations, felipestaqueria.com 2. Juan's Flying Burrito: Multiple Locations, juansflyingburrito.com 3. Izzo's Illegal Burrito: Multiple Locations, izzos.com

BEST PIZZA

BEST SNO-BALL 1. Hansen's Sno-Bliz: 4801 Tchoupitoulas St., facebook.com/snobliz 2. Plum Street Sno-Balls: 1300 Burdette St., facebook.com/Plum-Street-Snoballs 3. Imperial Woodpecker Sno-Balls: 3511 Magazine St., www.iwsnoballs.com

BEST KING CAKE

1. Haydel's Bakery: 4037 Jefferson Hwy., 1. Reginelli's Pizzeria: Multiple Locations, haydelsbakery.com reginellis.com 2. Dong Phuong: 14207 Chef Menteur 2. PIZZA domenica: Multiple Locations, Hwy., dpbakeshop.com pizzadomenica.com 3. Manny Randazzo Original King 3. Pizza Delicious: 617 Piety St., Cakes: 3515 N. Hullen St., Metairie, pizzadelicious.com randazzokingcake.com

2020

BEST OF THE BIG EASY

Thanks for Voting! 22

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LIVING SPIRIT-FREE IN NEW ORLEANS: Pandemic Edition By Carolyn Heneghan

For many in the Crescent City, living through this pandemic has been something like an overly extended hurrication. Many New Orleaniansâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; and Americans in generalâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;have turned to alcohol for stress relief, comfort, entertainment, and mostly-virtual socializing during the pandemic. But now more than ever may be a time for Big Easy residents to consider taking it easy on the booze.

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For a lot of people, living or socializing in a city like New Orleans seems to make drinking on a regular, and often excessive, basis not only socially acceptable, but actively encouraged. But if you’re considering cutting back, taking a break, or quitting alcohol consumption altogether, you have plenty of options to laissez les bons temps rouler, while living it up spirit-free. The Pandemic Binge Recent research confirms that Americans have indeed been drinking more in recent months. One poll conducted in early April found that 16 percent of the 2,200 polled adults in the U.S. said that they were drinking more during the pandemic, with young adults reporting some of the highest rates of increased use. Alcohol sales in the U.S. were 54 percent higher in late March, compared to the same time last year, and online alcohol sales were nearly 500 percent higher in late April, according to a Nielsen report. Here in New Orleans, the same trend assuredly persists. One recent report ranked Louisiana as tied (with Massachusetts) at number 19, out of all 50 states and Washington, D.C., in terms of alcohol consumption per capita. And the Big Easy’s reputation has long preceded itself as one of the drinking capitals of the world. But New Orleans has also been one of the hot spots for coronavirus cases. That is due, in part, to inadequate access to healthcare for many residents. Also, local communities face widespread public health issues caused or exacerbated by excessive alcohol use and addiction. Alcohol negatively impacts the lungs and immune system. This makes individuals who drink to excess more vulnerable to becoming infected by the virus or having more severe symptoms, according to experts with the Yale Program in Addiction Medicine. For these reasons and other public health concerns, a break from or cutting back on alcohol consumption is something to consider. But hitting the pause button on drinking doesn’t have to mean the end of your social life in New Orleans. All it takes is a shift in mindset and experimenting with other options for socializing and consuming beverages in your home and out in the city. On the Menu The state of the New Orleans bar, restaurant, and music venue industries remains unclear as COVID-related restrictions introduce new hurdles for local business owners. But prepandemic designated drivers could sip on alcohol-free craft cocktails at Bar Tonique or browse the mocktail menu at SideBar Nola for a nonalcoholic accompaniment to a set of live experimental compositions. Though the “sober-curious” movement is still in its early stages here in New Orleans, these efforts demonstrate an openness and willingness to embrace alcohol-free menus. In this way, bars, venues, and restaurants offer more options to their patrons, both those who drink alcohol and those who do not. Another option is to explore the city’s nighttime coffee shop scene. Menus often include a range of herbal caffeine-free or low-caffeine options that won’t interrupt your sleep, or higher-caffeine teas and coffees that boost your energy to be sociable into the later hours. Cafe Envie locations and Hey! Coffee Co. provide palate-pleasing tea and coffee drinks that the sober-curious can enjoy. Local coffee shops such as Z’otz Cafe also often offer a fun, laid-back atmosphere for mingling, along with cards and board games for more structured hangouts. The Bean Gallery has a lending library, board games, and a front porch with outdoor seating that can accommodate safety precautions as the pandemic continues. Booze-Free at Home The initial pandemic shutdown and ongoing social distancing has meant that more socializing—and thus drinking—is occurring in the home. You may be enjoying a quiet drink and a book at the end of a long day, or you might host a dinner party with coordinated food and beverage pairings. Regardless of the context, drinks are often at the heart of socializing and entertainment. But those drinks don’t necessarily have to contain alcohol. And they can still be delicious, enjoyable (whether by yourself or with others), and homemade from the house bar. You can use common ingredients in your kitchen to create fresh and exciting beverage combinations, from juices and smoothies to alcohol-free cocktails that flex your skills as a mixologist. These days, grocery stores are increasing their inventory of pre-made mocktail mixes. These drinks can be enjoyed on their own and are similar to beloved cocktails, such as margaritas and cosmopolitans, but contain no alcohol. In addition to mocktail mixes are zero-proof spirits and nonalcoholic beers available for purchase in stores or online. Companies like Seedlip, Lyre’s Spirit Co, Ritual, Kin, and Curious offer a wide range of spirit-free options that mimic traditional liquors, from gin and vodka to rum, tequila, and aperitifs. Another option is to patron local businesses that are making an effort to expand their menus to include more health-conscious and sober-forward options. Big Easy Bucha locally produces the fermented tea beverage kombucha, a fast-growing subsection of the wellness beverage market that caters to both drinkers and non-drinkers alike. Just before the mandated pandemic closures, NOLA Brewing launched Hop’D Tea, a new line of non-alcoholic beverages brewed with fresh teas and hops. Available for pick-up orders at the NOLA Brewing Taproom, Hop’D Tea is packaged in aluminum tall boys, making them a fun and hassle-free choice to bring along to social gatherings. As the pandemic drags on, public health will better come into focus. In local fashion, New Orleanians continue to work toward finding a balance between the revelry our city is known for and the health and safety precautions we must take at this time. And living spiritfree is one way to be.

WhereYat.com | September 2020

FISH ARE JUMPING by Emily Hingle

Louisiana is known as the Sportman’s (and Sportwoman’s) Paradise because of the plethora of opportunities to fish and hunt the bountiful wildlife. Even the pandemic couldn’t stop people from heading out to our waterways and enjoying nature. In fact, it may have drawn people out who have never held a fishing rod before, since there’s simply not as much to do now.

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Edward Pratt, press secretary of the Louisiana Department of Wildlife & Fisheries, explained that right now is a great time to start fishing or to get back out there if it’s been a while. “There is no better time than now to get out there and try it. Fishing is a great way to spend time with family and friends and get away from the stresses of everyday life,” he said. “It is also beneficial to the resources and the environment. Funds from the purchases of fishing licenses and fishing equipment pay for the management of Louisiana’s rich fishery resources. Go out and try different places and techniques. Keep a logbook of your trips and record what works and does not. Note things like time of year, bait, location, tide, wind, and your catch. Above all, don’t forget to have fun.” If you feel the urge to grab a pole and head out to the water to try your hand at fishing this season, there are a couple of things that you need to know first. People above the age of 16 need a Basic Fishing License for freshwater fishing, and both a Basic Fishing License and Saltwater Fishing License for saltwater fishing. You may also need to obtain permits to catch certain fish. For instance, you need a Recreational Offshore Landing Permit to fish for tuna, swordfish, grouper, etc. Check out the Louisiana Wildlife & Fisheries website (wlf.louisiana. gov) for more information about rules, regulations, catch limits, and licenses. You can also use Louisiana Travel’s Interactive Fishing Map (louisianatravel. com/fishing/map) for guidance on the best fishing spots. You can sort it by freshwater and saltwater spots, find charters, locate bait shops, and more. There may have been more fishing activity earlier in 2020 due to COVID-19 regulations that shut down other recreational activities. Pratt explained, “At the onset of the pandemic, agency biologists observed large increases in fishing pressures at local marinas. Due to people being restricted on what they could do in the city and the need for social distancing, many Louisiana residents turned to recreational fishing. Dockside angler surveys conducted during the months of March through June estimated an increase of 37.25 percent in the number of statewide private inshore fishing trips, when compared with that same period in 2019. In Southeast Louisiana, the increase was approximately 27.1 percent. As the state moved forward into Phase Two and more residents returned to their workplaces, fishing pressures seem to have begun to normalize but are still above what is expected for this time of the year.” The fishing charter industry, however, took a hit in the first half of the year, though that seems to be stabilizing as well. This may also be due to the desire for fishermen to go after larger fish. Pratt continued, “Conversely to private recreational fishing pressure, the number of inshore for-hire fishing trips dropped off sharply during the early stages of the pandemic. During regular weekly charter captain interviews, most stated that they

had to cancel scheduled trips because of people’s uncertainty and concern with COVID-19. The Louisiana Recreational Fishing Survey, LACreel, showed a decrease of nearly 60 percent in the number of charter fishing trips during the months of March through June. Now, as more people are comfortable with the situation of COVID, bookings are slowly returning to a more normal rate.” Those seeking to hire a charter to go after large saltwater fish don’t have to acquire a Recreational Offshore Landing Permit if their captain has one. Much has been said about coastal erosion, which is incredibly rampant despite efforts over the last few years to stop the loss. The changes in the Louisiana coastline are apparent to anglers who

may have to change their usual spots as they begin to dissipate. “Every year, fishing spots change and disappear, and new spots are discovered,” said Pratt. “As with all natural processes that take place in coastal Louisiana, habitats for finfish change. As more and more marsh erodes, much critical finfish habitat is lost, and fishing opportunities can diminish.” Fishing can be both relaxing and exciting. You can enjoy it with friends and family while your line is in the water and also when you’re cooking up your big catch. There’s no better time than now to check out this hobby or to become the fisherman (or fisherwoman) you always wanted to be.

WhereYat.com | September 2020

TAKE ME TO THE RIVER by Steven Melendez

It could have just been an expressway. Today, the Mississippi River is lined with parks stretching almost from Canal Street to the Industrial Canal. But in the 1960s, the New Orleans riverfront next to the French Quarter was still part of the city’s working port, lined with docks and wharves used to load and unload goods from rivergoing ships. Federal and regional planners sought to transform the area to accommodate the 20th century’s favorite mode of transportation: the automobile. Plans had been proposed since shortly after World War II for a Riverfront Expressway that would bring suburban commuters to the Central Business District. The highway would have stretched along the river, separating it from landmarks like the historic U.S. Mint and the French Market. But after fierce opposition from preservationists who said it would ruin the character of the Quarter—in what was sometimes referred to as “The Second Battle of New Orleans”—federal transportation officials formally scuttled plans for the expressway in 1969. That set the stage for another kind of historic transformation of the French Quarter waterfront, from part of the city’s transportation infrastructure to an area of parkland now beloved by tourists and residents alike. The area’s redevelopment began with the construction of the Moonwalk, the section of riverfront walkway directly across from Jackson Square and St. Louis Cathedral, created in the 1970s. Its name was doubtlessly inspired by NASA’s then-ongoing Apollo missions, but it was also a punny tribute to then-Mayor Moon Landrieu, who backed the project. While the Mississippi River has always been an integral part of the city, it wasn’t always easy to access. The Moonwalk provided a way for the public to stroll up and appreciate the river’s grandeur and beauty in a peaceful environment. Further upriver, across Canal Street, the area known as the Warehouse District is now known for upscale dining, drinking, hotels, and condo developments. But through the early 1980s, it was still heavily occupied by its namesake storage facilities. That changed quickly in the run-up to the 1984 World’s Fair, when much of the riverfront land was cleared to make way for the festival’s pavilions and other

attractions, including a short-lived aerial tramway that took pedestrians across the river to Algiers via cable car. The Fair was a notorious disaster: Ticket revenue was substantially lower than expected, and the event didn’t come close to recouping its costs. But it paved the way for further development of the riverfront and adjacent neighborhoods. Part of what’s now the Ernest N. Morial Convention Center served as the Fair’s Great Hall, and additional parts of the onetime fairground were used to construct the Riverwalk mall, now known for its outlet stores. Back adjacent to the French Quarter, riverfront parkland development continued with the formal opening of Woldenberg Park in 1989. Named for philanthropists Dorothy and Malcolm Woldenberg, who helped fund its creation, the park continued to replace industrial waterfront with public parkland accessible to all. Roughly a year after the park’s opening, the Audubon Aquarium of the Americas opened adjacent to it. The Regional Transit Authority has also been operating streetcar service along the riverfront from the Convention Center area to Esplanade Avenue since around that time, although service upriver of Canal Street is currently halted due to construction. The park has also become home to a number of New Orleans’s most interesting public art, including a statue of bespectacled benefactor Malcolm Woldenberg himself. There’s also the “Monument to the Immigrant,” commissioned by the Italian American Marching Club and sculpted by Italian immigrant artist Franco Alessandrini, depicting an immigrant family. Visitors can spot Robert Schoen’s massive marble statue titled “Old Man River,”

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standing near the former Jackson Brewery, which was converted into a tourist-oriented shopping center in the mid-1980s. The New Orleans Holocaust Memorial, created by Israeli optical artist Yaacov Agam, also stands in Woldenberg Park. Depending on the angle from which it’s approached, the multiple panels of the memorial form different images related to the Holocaust and Jewish culture. Head downriver to the Marigny and Bywater to visit Crescent Park, a riverfront destination accessible at a few entrance points by stairs or elevator which has been fully open since 2015. With an enclosed dog park, a picnic area, and other recreation spots, as well as scenic paths for walking, jogging, or biking, it’s quickly become a popular destination. If you choose to travel between the French Quarter waterfront and Crescent Park, you’ll likely notice that you can’t make the trip directly: A few still-functional sections of the port, most notably the Governor Nicholls Street Wharf, block the way. But under a plan announced by former Mayor Mitch Landrieu (son of Moon) in 2017, the city acquired that wharf and a second at Esplanade Avenue, swapping them in a deal with the Port of New Orleans. In exchange, the port took control of the New Orleans Public Belt Railway, the freight-train line that delivers goods to and from its ships. The goal is to turn the remaining wharves into parkland, creating a continuous stretch from Canal Street through the Bywater. Exactly what form the latest section of park will take remains to be seen, but, should it come to fruition, it will effectively complete the transformation of the Downtown waterfront from worksite to recreation ground.

WhereYat.com | September 2020

PEST-CASE SCENARIOS: Bugs and Rodents in New Orleans

A COLLEGE KID’S GUIDE TO NEW ORLEANS

[Part 1] by Kathy Bradshaw

By Camryn Cohen

It’s only fitting that I’m writing this article having just arrived back in New Orleans after a three-month-long hiatus. My sophomore year at Tulane was cut short when students were sent home in March, a precautionary measure taken by the university just days before COVID-19 was declared a global pandemic. As I drove from the airport to my hotel Downtown, I couldn’t believe that such a soulful city could feel so eerie; there were no crowds on Canal, street performers on Royal, nor musicians in Jackson Square. New Orleans is resilient—that much we know is true—and just because the city is quiet, doesn’t mean the spirit is gone. In fact, it was promising to see that people are, for the most part, staying home. It’s a new way for New Orleanians to show how much they love and care about their community. Anyone who knows me would agree that I’m a creature of habit. New Orleans has an abundance of places to eat and shop and activities to do. When I was a freshman, it took me a few weeks to get my bearings—but once I find my favorites, I stick to them. Lucky for me, over the next few weeks, I’ll get a chance to revisit some of my most beloved spots in the Big Easy. I am about to start my junior year, so keep in mind that this guide is geared towards those on a college budget. There is so much of this city that I have yet to see, so consider this the guide that keeps on growing. These are the places I have grown to love since moving to New Orleans two years ago. (Please note that, as of press time, not all of these places are currently open, due to COVID-19.)

Uptown

Where to Eat: A few days into my freshman year, my roommate and I discovered Jazmine Café. Located next to the famous Camellia Grill (more on that later), Jazmine Café is a Vietnamese joint that soon became my favorite restaurant. Soon after, I stumbled upon Mint and Chill Out Cafe, both of which also serve Asian fusion. By second semester, my friends and I made it a tradition to have breakfast at Refuel Café every weekend—the iced coffee, grits, and breakfast burrito are to die for. Other brunch favorites include Toast, Surrey’s, and Satsuma, which is a five-minute walk from campus. As a native New Yorker, it was important to me to find a solid sandwich down South. I

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stumbled upon Cibo Deli and discovered that they make a mean Italian combo, as well as classics like chicken parm and lasagna. For a different style of sandwich but equally as satisfying, Good Bird on Freret is the perfect place to go for lunch before or after class. For dinner, PIZZA Domenica never disappoints; I order the burrata Caprese, wood-roasted cauliflower, and gorgonzola pizza with prosciutto, apple, and honey every time I go. Perhaps the most recent addition Good Bird to my list of favorite places to eat is Barracuda, a taco stand on Tchoupitoulas that opened several months ago. I love the crispy fish tacos and esquites, which is what they call cheesy corn. Camellia Grill holds a special place in my heart; my grandparents used to sit at that very same counter when they were students at Tulane almost 50 years ago. Camellia is great for breakfast, lunch, or dinner, but I think it’s best for late-night eats. Last but not least on my list is the renowned Domilise’s. It’s no hidden gem, but I had to include it—ordering a po-boy at Domilise’s is a rite of passage for every Tulane student.

What to Do: Audubon Park is without a doubt the best place to unwind and decompress. I prefer to go in the evening, when it’s a little less crowded, and walk along the edge of the park. I love the way the sun glistens through the massive Spanish moss-covered trees. One of the best Tulane traditions is going to The Fly on Friday afternoons to picnic and watch the sunset—at the edge of Audubon Park, The Fly runs right along the Mississippi River. Both students and locals love to lie out on the grassy area overlooking the water. Walking down Magazine Street is a must. Two of my favorite staples on Magazine are Peaches Records and the Ashley Longshore Studio Gallery; both places are a testament to the eccentric nature of New Orleans. A bit closer to the Tulane and Loyola campuses, Freret and Maple Streets are great areas to wander around as well. Relatively new to Freret Street, Body Shoppe is a hub for Tulane students. Tulane alum Kelsey Greenfield opened the fitness studio earlier this year, and it’s become my favorite place to work out. Above all, my favorite thing to do in New Orleans is to ride the St. Charles Avenue streetcar heading Downtown. The St. Charles line runs the length of the city, from Carrollton Avenue and South Claiborne Street, Uptown, to Canal and Carondelet Streets Downtown. Riding the streetcar is perhaps the most extraordinary and efficient way to explore New Orleans. Where to Shop: Scattered along Magazine Street, some of my favorites include Shake Your Bon Bon, Pied Nu, Jean Therapy, Joseph, Monomim, Funky Monkey, and Hemline. I also love Gae Tana’s, Angelique, and Swap Boutique, all of which are located on Maple Street.

Garden District

Places to eat: Molly’s Rise and Shine, Turkey and the Wolf, Sake Café, Stein’s, Cavan.

Peony

Things to do: Stroll down picturesque Prytania Street to marvel at the mansions and huge oak trees that line the streets; visit Lafayette Cemetery. Where to shop: DNO, Peony.

MONDAY & TUESDAY $4 Pitcher Night! Enjoy HUGE $4 pitchers of Abita Amber or Paradise Park with entree purchase

WINE WEDNESDAY $10 bottles of Reginelli's Reserve wines: Cabernet, Chardonnay or Pinot Grigio

THURSDAY

$5 Frozen Cocktails! Ask your server about flavors

CBD

Places to eat: Josephine Estelle, Willa Jean, Meril, Sofia, Stumptown for coffee, Seaworthy, Domenica.

Must be 21 years or older to consume alcohol. Available at participating locations. While supplies last. Cannot be combined with other offers. Subject to change.

Things to do: Visit Alto at Ace Hotel, Bar Marilou, the Contemporary Arts Center, the galleries on Julia Street. Where to shop: Freda, Friend, DNO, Stone Free.

French Quarter

Where to eat: Brennan’s, French Toast, Ruby Slipper Café, Café Amelie. What to do: Browse the antique shops on Royal Street, listen to live music on Frenchmen Street, check out the Frenchmen Art Market, Palace Market, Jackson Square, Le Garage. Where to shop: Hemline Downtown, Krewe, Dirty Coast, Porter Lyons, Rocket Fizz Soda Pop and Candy Shop.

Marigny/Bywater

Where to eat: Elysian Bar at Hotel Peter and Paul, N7, Bywater Bakery, Elizabeth’s, Paladar 511. Things to do: Check out the Rusty Rainbow Bridge and Crescent City Park, Studio Be, Bacchanal. Where to shop: Euclid Records, Blue Dream Vintage.

Studio Be

I am bracing myself for how different the upcoming semester will be. Already, Tulane has implemented a number of measures in order to ensure the health and safety of students, teachers, and staff. Classes began on August 19 and end just before Thanksgiving—the final exam period will be remote, and tests will be taken online. The university plans to hold classes both in-person and online, and some courses are considered “hybrid,” which means that instruction will be a combination of the two. Over the summer, 13 temporary buildings were constructed on the Monroe and Newcomb quads and the Berger Family Lawn, one of which is a dining pavilion. The classrooms will allow for even more socially distanced, inperson learning. Those living on campus must get tested for COVID-19 at the TU Arrival Center 48 hours before moving into the residence halls. The TU Arrival Center is located at the Hyatt Regency Downtown. Plexiglass barriers have been installed in buildings across campus, and students will be required to wear masks.

WhereYat.com | September 2020

AN IDYLLIC DAY ESCAPE:

Camp Salmen Nature Park By Michelle Nicholson

It’s September in New Orleans, and we’re all breathing a sigh of relief as the temperature dips and the mosquito population wanes. Many are hearing the call of the Great Outdoors. Couturie Forest in City Park is a pleasant walk in the woods, and the bike path down Wisner Boulevard is breezy and shady—but maybe you’ve been down those routes, walked or pedaled in circles there before. Maybe you’re looking for something quieter, for more biodiversity. Maybe you even want to add history and culture into the mix. If so, then we have a sweet surprise for you.

Camp Salmen Nature Park is conveniently located in Slidell, 15 minutes off of I-10, on Gause Boulevard. Don’t follow Google’s directions, which will lead you to the old Boy Scout Entrance; instead, turn left into the park when you see the wooden entrance sign—an artifact, reminiscent of your camp-film favorites. The setting of Camp Salmen is, in fact, a blast from the past—way, way back. The park has preserved relics of the 60 years that it hosted Boy Scouts, who came to earn rare merit badges (think bugling, canoeing, archery, astronomy, and lifesaving), but the park also aims to preserve a place with ancient cultural roots. The Camp Salmen Lodge, recently listed as one of Louisiana’s Most Endangered Places for 2020 by the Louisiana Trust for Historic Preservation, was built by Joseph Laurent in the 1830s. He selected a location at the shore of a backwater pool in Bayou Liberty deep enough to turn boats around—boats that brought bricks, made from the clay pits there, back to rebuild the largest portion of the French Quarter after it burned. However, the grounds at Camp Salmen were, first and foremost, an indigenous trading post— the Northshore’s equivalent of the trading post that is today the French Market on the Mississippi River. Preservation at Camp Salmen is not limited to rare architectural treasures and cultural/ historical landmarks, but to environmental preservation as well. Miles of hiking trails traverse multiple microbiomes, representative of the total scope of our Southeastern Louisiana landscape, and offer several different kinds of nature experiences for folks looking to get lost in the woods for a while. If your aim is a relaxing day, hidden under the canopy, or an easy walk along the bayou’s shore, start at the primary entry point to the Camp Ridge Trail, located by the pavilion (and playground, which may be closed due to COVID-19). The Camp Ridge trail offers a canoe launch, boardwalks through cypress swamps and lowlands, and opportunities to go safely “off-road,” where you’ll discover “Sioux Ruins”

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(of the defunct Boy Scout camp), the Camp Salmen Live Oak (on the Live Oak Society Registry), an amphitheater (formerly the brick clay pit), and the Salmen Lodge (aka the “original” Creole trading post). Look for ancient edible and medicinal plants, such as pennywort, blackberry, green briar, and water plantains, among other natives, including royal fern, St. Peter’s wort, and flowering lizard tail and pickerel weed. Pack a picnic lunch and get cozy in one of the several shady or sunny spots tucked away on these short trails. Enjoy cycling? The St. Tammany Trace/Bike Trail is accessible from within Camp Salmen. You might choose to add to your itinerary a leisurely ride on the loop in the park, through open and wooded lands and over Goldfish Bayou. A moderate cyclist can head west on the Trace and pedal just under 15 miles to Fontainebleau State Park, with its beautiful beach and sugar mill ruins, before returning to Camp Salmen. A serious cyclist might be stoked to make the 50-mile round trip to Abita Springs and back, with a stop, perhaps, at the Abita Brew Pub or Mama D’s Pizza for lunch. However, if what you need is full immersion in the Louisiana wilds, plan for a whole day of exploring the wandering trail system at Camp Salmen. As you drive to the parking lot and trailhead located by the pavilion and playground, you’ll notice the “grotto,” remnants of the Boy Scout camp’s Catholic chapel, within which perches a pristine statue of the Mother Mary surrounded by a lush proliferation of kaleidoscopic flowers. The grotto marks the intersection of the Camp Salmen trail system. At the grotto, cross the parkway to access Camp Salmen’s three longer trails: the Goldfish Bayou Basin, Flatwoods Crescent, and Old Fields Plateau trails. Goldfish Bayou Basin is the closest and shortest loop, circling and crossing through Gum Swamp and connecting with both the Old Fields Plateau and Flatwoods trails. You’ll want to bring insect repellant for this leg of the trip—though ticks and biting flies are not an issue here during warmer weather, like they are at Fontainebleau. Look out for golden orb weavers. You could skip the swamp and follow the Flatwoods Crescent trail along its perimeter before diving deeper into the park’s hardwood forest, where you might see a rabbit or three, and then into the meadows of the Old Fields Plateau trail, where wildflower blooms peak during the fall. Whether you want a peaceful escape or wildlife adventure, Camp Salmen Nature Park is open from 9 a.m. – 4:30 p.m., Friday – Sunday, to fulfill your every outdoor desire. Admission is free, so download a trail map (campsalmennaturepark.org/files/ CSTrailmap10_2011.gif); strap on your hiking shoes or rack up your bike or kayak; pack lots of water, snacks, sunscreen, and bug spray; and hit the road.

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MINT CONDITION: The NOLA Jazz Museum By Eliana Blum

Where Esplanade Avenue meets the Mississippi, a block from Frenchmen Street and directly behind the French Market, is a stately, intimidating building filled with wonders. The structure, which was built as a functioning branch of the U.S. Mint in 1838, now houses the New Orleans Jazz Museum and blooms with live music events.

During the height of its production as a mint, over 400 million coins were produced there. On the main floor, you can still see the tools, the boilers, the original maps of the neighborhood, and some of the coins themselves. The building was added to the National Registry of Historical Places in 1973. Then, in 1981, the mint was converted to a museum, where the Louisiana Historical Center preserves a massive collection of documents and objects on the third floor. Today, by appointment, you can view sheet music, photographs, records, and the world’s largest collection of instruments played by beloved jazz musicians. The museum stands by its mission statement, “to celebrate the history of jazz, in all its forms, through dynamic interactive exhibits, multigenerational educational programming, research facilities, and engaging musical performances.” There is a comprehensive Jazz Education Center and five varied, rotating exhibits that include paintings, prints, quotes, videos, and instruments of all sorts, spanning nearly 8,000 square feet of gallery space, plus performances throughout the indoor rooms and on the balconies. Currently, as you enter, you’re met by two rooms filled without raucous, joyous photographs by Cheryl Gerber, showcased in her book Cherchez la Femme, which documents the strength and ingenuity of several generations of New Orleans women. They’re dancing, singing, shouting, marching, posing with their instruments, and inviting you into a museum that is alive with art. In the hallway, there are photographs of Little Richard, Fifth Ward Weebie, and Lucien Barbarin, draped in black silk funeral wreaths. It is a somber and respectful nod to a few extraordinary musicians who we’ve lost this year. Up the stairs, the “Me Got Fiyo: The Professor Longhair Centennial” exhibit is bursting with his legendary energy. Photos are reproduced larger than life. Music flows out from speakers around the room. Colorful notes inform you of his early career, his fall from grace, and his late-life musical revival. Videos show other piano greats, including Allen Toussaint and Dr. John, speaking about what made Professor Longhair one of the most essential, if least known, inductees into the Rock & Roll Hall of Fame. There’s even a player piano with buttons you can press that let you hear his notes and see how his fingers played them. “The Wildest: Louis Prima Comes Home” exhibit is similarly constructed: with huge, hyper-colored photographic wall prints; biographical notes; fantastic costumes; a black and white picture of him from the 1950s, happy as a clam, meeting Elvis; records; and songs

in the air. They all come together to create a picture of the man, as well as the musician. A whole room is dedicated to Disney’s 1967 animated film The Jungle Book, in which Louis Prima played “King Louie” with all of his heart and gusto. Another exhibit, “Drumsville: Evolution of the New Orleans Beat,” is a fascinating retrospective on the history of rhythm, which shows examples of drums going back to their African origins and highlights some of our city’s great percussionists throughout the years. In the final exhibit, there is a rare opportunity to see the delicate, haunting paintings of Noel Rockmore, up close and well lit. A tortured and brilliant artist, Rockmore was on an early track to becoming a violinist until a childhood illness impaired his movements and forced him to find expression in other mediums. His inability to play on a professional level only increased his admiration for those who could, inspiring him to spend a large portion of his career in New Orleans and to capture the individual spirit of hundreds of local musicians in his work. The walls of Preservation Hall are lined with his paintings, and they are a thing to behold in person, although the lights are dim in the space and photography is not allowed. The pieces in this gallery form the exhibit titled “New Orleans Music Observed: The Art of Noel Rockmore and Emilie Rhys.” They have been hand-selected and are on loan from the Ogden Museum and several private collectors. In bright contrast, across the hallway, the other half of this nuanced exhibit is filled with the works of his daughter, Emilie Rhys. Also an ardent admirer of the skills and movement of musicians, Rhys captures artists in motion in her portraits, with a palete that is sunny and filled with energy and light. Throughout the pandemic, the Jazz Museum has been livestreaming concerts on Tuesday evenings from their large balcony that overlooks a grassy square, where people can gather in a socially distant fashion. You can also tune in to facebook.com/nolajazzmuseum/ live to watch for free. This museum is special. From the outside, it’s hard to know what to expect. The Greek Revivalist front presents such formality. On the inside, however, each room is curated with care and creativity. Every curved, riveted entryway is a reminder that this building is a vault for keeping precious things.

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Pest-Case Scenarios: Life in the Bug Easy

Bugs and Rodents in New Orleans [Part 2] by Kathy Bradshaw

There’s a lot to love about New Orleans: incredible cuisine, beautiful architecture, jazzy music, warm weather. But, as with most things, you have to take the good with the bad—and, in New Orleans, that means pests. Things that bite and crawl and itch. Everything good about New Orleans has a pest-related downside. The rats and roaches like that roast beef po-boy almost as much as you do, those gorgeous St. Charles Avenue mansions are like Supersized Happy Meals for termites, and the garbage left behind from just one music festival could probably fatten the entire local mouse population. And, sure, it’s great to be able to wear shorts in December—if you don’t mind mosquito bites on your knees for Christmas.

In the previous installment of “Pest-Case Scenarios,” we learned about termites and roaches in New Orleans. Now, we’ll look at the rampant problem of rodents, bedbugs, and fleas. Of Mice and Men: Rodents Along with the occasional nutria (aka “river rat”) or someone’s pet gerbil, New Orleans’s most common rodents are mice and rats. And nowhere is associated with rodents more than the French Quarter, where rat sightings are about as banal as spotting tourists with go-cups. The majority of Quarter rats (not the folks who spend hours downing beers on Bourbon Street) are a breed called Norway rats. According to Joe Martin, entomologist and pest expert with Terminix Pest Control, these rats tend to live in underground burrows and are very good swimmers. Being the Michael Phelps of the rodent world means that these rats are perfectly at home by the river, in sewers, or almost anywhere in our flood-prone city. The other sort of rat, which lives primarily Uptown, is known as a roof rat. These rodents like to get high, and therefore they make their homes on roofs or in attics and trees. Martin says that the main reason rodents come into human space is for food and shelter. Our houses, restaurants, and various structures provide a labyrinth of nooks and

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crannies for mice and rats to nest in, as well as a regular smorgasbord of garbage and offal for them to feast upon. He adds that if you actually see a rodent, there could be a problem—and not only for the terrified unfortunate who happens to catch a glimpse of the twitchy and noxious varmint. “If you saw one in the street, during the day, something is probably wrong with the rat,” Martin says. “A rat doesn’t want to run into the middle of the street. He wants to eat by his house. A high population of rodents and fewer food sources means that they’re going to be scavenging and looking for food, which means they’re going to be showing themselves.” Yes, rodents emerge from the safety of their burrows almost only out of hunger or inquisitiveness. But this is not safe for them. By revealing themselves and their whereabouts, rodents expose themselves to their human predators. Once they are discovered while snooping about, they risk being glue-trapped, poisoned, or killed— proving that curiosity really does kill the rat. Sleeping With the Enemy: Bedbugs The pest that seems to be all the rage these days is bedbugs. About 10 years ago, bedbugs were practically unheard of, and then, suddenly, they seemed to be crawling into bed with just about everybody.

“Bedbugs sort of made a comeback in 2011,” Martin says. So did Ashton Kutcher. Nowadays, in New Orleans, bedbugs as a problem rank up there with potholes and our too-limited supply of Indian restaurants: bothersome, but manageable. “We may not have as big a bedbug issue as some cities, but due to our high travel and our tourists, we have bedbugs,” Martin says. “We get a handful of calls for bedbugs every day.” Unlike fleas, who prefer to take a bite out of Fido or Fuzzy, bedbugs feed exclusively on human blood. These little vampires-between-the-sheets need human blood in order to lay eggs and reproduce. Unfortunately, however, if you think that you can eliminate bedbugs by removing yourself and your nourishing blood supply from your home for a week or so, keep in mind that these bugs can survive for as much as a year without feeding. Bedbugs hide out in the box springs, bedframe, or headboard of your bed. When you tuck yourself in for the night, they smell the minty fresh carbon dioxide on your breath, which is like a dinner bell to a bedbug, signaling them that it’s time for supper. “They then take a nice little ride down your bed, and they’re going to get you on a nonhairy spot of your body,” Martin says. Talk about strange bedfellows. The especially challenging thing about bedbugs is that they get into everything. Martin says that he’s found them inside of cellphones, TVs, and other electronics before. You can get them just about anywhere—hotels, movie theaters, the office, the bar. And whether you want to pick them up or not, they’re really a sure thing—it’s almost guaranteed that they will come home with you and let you take them to bed. All they expect in return is dinner. But the good news is, a bedbug scare is often a false alarm. “A lot of people think they have bedbugs and do not have bedbugs,” he says. Apparently, bug hypochondria is real. There is an actual psychiatric disorder known as delusional parasitosis, or Ekbom’s syndrome, which gives someone the false sensation that he or she is being attacked by bugs or parasites. “It’s the concept that you’re being bitten, and you’re really not,” Martin says. “That can make you think you have bedbugs,” when it might, in fact, be just static electricity, paper particles on your skin, or fleas. But if you really do have an infestation, what’s the best way to fight bedbugs? Have your entire house chemically treated, or just stop shaving for a couple weeks. “Bedbugs are adapted for humans, but if your body is too hairy, they won’t be able to get a grip to get the blood,” Martin says. Either way, it’s probably worth having the pest control experts check it out, so you can rest a little easier at night. Sleep tight. Don’t let the bedbugs bite. Jumping Out of Your Skin: Fleas Between the mosquitos, which see you as their personal lunch counter, and the fleas, which have a craving for canine, everyone in your household is prone to being eaten alive. Your cats and dogs are in constant risk of becoming dinner for thousands—the number of fleas that could be hanging out in the depths of their fur at any given time. Fleas greatly prefer animal blood but will resort to feeding on human blood if desperate and hungry enough, in much the same way we’ll eat ramen noodles and Cheez Whiz when gourmet meals are beyond our means. There are over 2,200 different varieties of flea, the majority of which live on raccoons, possums, rats, and your beloved fuzzy companions. Fleas will hop on your animals when they are outside, but even if you keep kitty on lockdown, it doesn’t mean she’s immune— fleas will hitch a ride on your clothing and find their way to your indoor pets. These bugs cause not only itching and discomfort to the animals, but they can also cause skin infections, tapeworms, and other such ailments. Like many other insects, fleas are more active in the summertime, so we’re just coming out of prime flea season—seeing the light at the end of a very scratchy tunnel. Fleas’ two favorite pastimes are torturing your pets and jumping. They can jump as far as seven feet, which, according to a TV commercial for a local pest company, means that “fleas can jump up to 80 times their own height. That’s the equivalent of a six-foot man jumping over the Eiffel Tower.” The tricky thing about fleas, Martin says, is that they can get into cracks in the hardwood floors, in walls, or under your house, where it can be harder to exterminate them. Not to mention that they can survive even after their four-legged food supply is long gone. To make flea-slaying even more challenging, sometimes insecticides don’t kill their eggs, giving them free rein to reproduce—which they do fiercely. These fertile little jumpers can multiply at a rate of as many as 22,000 fleas in just 60 days. A flea fun fact, according to Martin: “Fleas like white socks or white towels,” he says. “So, if you walk around your house in white socks, they’ll jump on your white socks. Or, if you throw a white towel down, they’ll jump on that white towel.” After which, you’ll surely want to throw in the towel. Or perhaps burn it. Whatever sort of pest is bugging you, try not to let the creepy crawly things get under your skin. Pests here are an unfortunate reality, like hurricanes and humidity, that you simply learn to live with. It’s just life in the Bug Easy.

WhereYat.com | September 2020

IT'S TEA TIME by Emily Hingle

New Orleans is a city known far and wide for beverages. However, the beverages that most people dream about when New Orleans is on the mind are alcoholic in nature—typically, the stronger, the better. But booze isn’t the only option when it comes to fancy drinking. Tea is served hot and cold at many establishments around town, and some places do it particularly well. Tea drinking originated in China thousands of years ago, when tea plants, leaves, and other herbs were served in hot water, possibly for medicinal purposes. Tea leaves were even discovered in the tomb of Emperor Jing of Han in 2016. After centuries of trade and cultivation, tea is readily available in a rainbow of colors, flavors, and healing properties. Coffee is a beloved non-booze drink with a storied history here, and tea is usually featured right alongside the bitter brown drink at coffee shops. Drink Beauty (3424 Magazine St.) is a pretty-in-pink drink bar that has a wide variety of coffee, tea, and concoctions. Don’t be surprised when your beverage comes out looking like it was pulled from a rainbow. The Inner Peace Matcha Latte infuses CBD oil with ground matcha and vanilla flavor. Feel golden after drinking the Golden Girl Chai & Almond Milk with turmeric, golden chai, peppercorn, and maple syrup. Monkey Monkey Coffee and Tea (4641 S. Carrollton Ave.) has a large menu of brunch items, pastries, and, of course, coffee, but their tea selection takes up a fair portion of the menu as well. In addition to the black, green, and herbal teas offered, there are a variety of loose-leaf teas, tea lattes, and a delicious matcha frappe. Herbalism is the practice of using plants for medicinal purposes. The ancient art has found a welcome home in New Orleans, as we had the very first licensed pharmacist in America: Louis Dufilho Jr. Louis treated yellow fever by making quinine from tree bark. Herbalism is also used in certain religious practices like Voodoo. Over the decades, many shops have opened for those needing herbs and spices for medicine and rituals, and tea can often be found among the wares. Maypop Community Herb Shop (2701 St. Claude Ave.) offers high-quality herbs for homemade medicines, cooking, essential oils, and tea-making. The staff at Maypop is ready to help you find the herbs you need through consultations, clinics, and classes. Rosalie Botanicals (3201 Toulouse St.) offers herbs, spices, tea blends, and incense. You can also pick up dried and powered seaweed and mushrooms, which can be steeped into teas or used in cuisine. For those north of Lake Pontchartrain, the charming English Tea Room & Eatery in Old Covington (734 East Rutland St., Covington) has over 200 flavors of gourmet teas, hailing from all over the world. Have a traditional robust tea, such as the Britannia Rules or Buckingham Palace Garden Party, or something more exotic, like Midnight in Paris or St. Scholastica Blend. The teas are well complemented by the full breakfast and lunch menus, featuring fanciful dishes including vegetable korma, bangers and mash, and the tea-infused soup of the day. Uxi Duxi (4901 Canal St.) is a beautiful backdrop in which to imbibe drinks made with kava, kratom, and mushrooms. You can also sip some teas, including sage, mint, Throat Chakra, Fairy Magic, and Ancient Black. Bubble teas and milk teas have gained popularity in recent years, and some shops specialize in the colorful cold drink in Metairie. Sharetea (3325 Severn Ave.) and Kung Fu Tea (3348 W. Esplanade Ave.) serve teas, milk teas, and boba teas, with many different flavor and fruit additions. A recent addition to the gourmet eatery scene in Metairie is Evolve Coffee + Matcha (3304 W. Esplanade Ave.) Evolve is all about sustainability; their matcha is ethically sourced from Japan. The baristas take such great pride in it that each order of matcha tea is handwhisked. You can order your matcha latte-style, iced, frozen, or with a shot of espresso, but the real connoisseurs take it ceremonial-style. Ceremonial-style matcha or koicha is a thicker, syrupy tea. Ditch the coffee and swear off the booze—tea is the new sexy drink in town!

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WhereYat.com | September 2020

Royal Roastery

$20 & UNDER: Fresh Perks By Kim Ranjbar

“I'd rather take coffee than compliments just now.” –Louisa May Alcott From its provocative aroma while brewing to the moment when that first flavorful sip hits your tongue, coffee— particularly good coffee—is equal to none. For many, it's a morning ritual, a sacred ceremony wrapped up in minutia that include how the beans are ground, the method of brewing, enjoying it hot or cold, and the addition of that precise amount of cream and sugar—or none at all. Some seek out the excess stimulation of sugary, creamy, multishot espresso drinks, while others are content with a simple unadulterated pour-over. Regardless of how and when it is consumed, coffee is an essential ingredient to many folks' lives, considering over half of the people in the U.S. drink a minimum of two cups a day.

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Though we all have our favorite haunts when it comes to our daily cuppa joe, it's fun to explore new cafés, baristas, and brews from time to time because you never know what you might find. Even in this tenuous atmosphere, we can still revel, if we make the effort to mask up and keep our distance while discovering a brand-new spot to practice our regular caffeine-laden rites. Just recently, there have been a few newcomers to our grand “community” of coffee that you'll definitely want to check out. Located on the corner of Bayou Road and N. Johnson Street, Old Road Coffee Shop opened up in early March of this year with Brian and Tammy Mahon slinging third-wave or artisanal java. Visitors have quickly come to appreciate their specialty coffee drinks, brewed from locally roasted beans such as Mojo and Congregation Coffee, plus Old Road also serves several teas, including matcha and chai, and an assortment of pastries and sandwiches provided by local bakeries like La Louisiane, Shake Sugary, and Pandemic Pastries (@pandemicpastries2020). This large and airy neighborhood café also offers free WiFi and both indoor and outdoor seating, and it features restaurant and artist Old Road Coffee pop-ups almost every weekend. Down only a few blocks away on N. Broad lies Coffee Bliss, another freshly brewed café with its own unique slant. Owners Dr. Cathy Honoré and her brother Michael launched the 7th Ward shop at the end of July with both indoor and outdoor seating and an East Indian vibe. Coffee Bliss serves espresso drinks including cappuccinos, lattes, and a special “Caffe Spicy Maya Mocha,” with chocolate syrup and cayenne pepper, and immune support teas steeped in a French press. They also offer assorted pastries

from Gracious Bakery. The café houses retail shop NOLA Serenity CBD, offering “a path to peaceful wellness” through THC-free CBD products, such as vegan gummy squares, tinctures, and capsules, all alternatives to traditional pain medications. Although it's not a café per se, Royal Roastery NOLA, a Middle Eastern specialty shop that recently opened up in Gretna on Terry Parkway, is a great source for roasted in-house coffee blends. They roast high-quality single-origin beans sourced from growers all over the world, from Columbia and Brazil to Ethiopia. Customers are encouraged to choose from their signature blends, or they can customize their own blend, depending upon their preferred tastes. The shop also offers a large selection of gorgeous Turkish coffee pots and sets, to “enhance the cultural experience.” In addition to coffee, Royal Roastery offers roasted nuts and seeds, gourmet candies and chocolates, and hand-made Middle Eastern pastries and sweets, including a variety of halvas, baklava, and Turkish delight. Finally, over in the Bywater, former local baristas Kyle McLean and Josh Brodey opened Pond Coffee (@pondcoffee), a windowCoffee Bliss service coffee shop inside vegetarian spot Small Mart on the corner of Chartres and Port Streets. Serving a small menu of espresso drinks, from americanos to matcha lattes (all made with oatmilk), Pond Coffee is currently sourcing beans from a selection several local and non-local roasters, such as New Orleans's own Hey! Café and Exile Coffee Roasters, and Bean Fruit Coffee Co. out of Jackson, Mississippi. You can also score a whole lot of swag with Pond's signature logo, everything from coffee mugs and t-shirts to stickers and cigarette lighters.

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AFRICAN

RESTAURANT GUIDE

Bennachin blends influences from places such as Gambia and Cameroon with equally exotic flair. What started as a business in Metairie now thrives in the French Quarter. Boasting a calm and attractive atmosphere, Bennachin has dishes for both vegans and omnivores that are full of flavor. 1212 Royal St., 522-1230, bennachinrestaurant.com

AMERICAN Bayou Hot Wings has more hot wings than Nashville, and their homemade chicken comes with a slew of sauces. They also have burgers and wraps. Try the Bayou Hot Wing Challenge for a chance to have your meal comped and your picture on the Wall of Fame. 6221 S. Claiborne Ave., bayouhotwings.com

Daisy Dukes offers authentic Southern dining in a relaxed atmosphere. They have a casual vibe and deliver consistent quality. You can find them at locations throughout the city, should you need to make a pit stop during your day to refuel for breakfast, lunch, or dinner. Multiple Locations, daisydukesrestaurant.com

The Duke's' legend lies in their food, and their fried mac and cheese and burgers are definitely legendary. In addition to burgers, they also serve salads, pasta, hot dogs, and fried dessert. Fried bread pudding, anyone? Anything fried ought to be tried. 2740 Severn Ave., Metairie, 353-4227, thedukemetairie.com

Gattuso's will satisfy your hunger, whether you’re craving soft-shell crab or salmon salad. They also offer gumbo and appetizers that can sate your appetite before you dig into delectable entrees. Gattuso’s always makes you feel like you’re at home with their friendly service. 435 Huey P. Long Ave., Gretna, 504-368-1114, gattusos.net

Lakeview Harbor, “home of Lakeview’s original burger,” offers salads, steaks, po-boys, wraps, pizza, seafood, and so much more. They have daily specials, including red beans with smoked sausage on Mondays and chicken-fried steak or meatstuffed bell peppers on Tuesdays. They even serve breakfast. 8550 Pontchartrain Blvd., 486-4887, lakeviewharbor.us

Liberty Cheesesteaks boasts some of the best cheesesteaks this side of Philadelphia, but their

menu doesn’t stop at cheesesteaks. They also offer signature hoagies and subs. Stop by their drivethru, if you’re on-the-go, or sit down to a meal and catch a game on TV. 5041 Freret St., 875-4447, LibertyCheesesteaks.com

Picnic Provisions & Whiskey is a peppy restaurant with a Southern menu to remember. They offer dine-in or takeout (for your home or your picnic), and they also cater. Highlights include their cocktails (try the pina colada!) and the Crawfish Boil Hot Fried Chicken Sandwich. 741 State St., 2662810, nolapicnic.com

Please U Restaurant puts out traditional Louisiana food with love. Started by Greek restaurateurs in 1946, this family business has become an institution on the Avenue. They’re open from 7 a.m. until 3 p.m., so hit them up for a breakfast or lunch to remember. 1751 St. Charles Ave., 525-9131, pleaseunola.com

Sala, located at the Lakefront, offers brunch and dinner with style. Try one of their small plates, such as the duck empanadas, or something more substantial, like the vegan pasta or fish tacos. Their cocktail menu is impressive, and they offer bottomless mimosas at brunch. 124 Lake Marina Ave., 513-2670, salanola.com

Willie Mae's is a quintessential Southern restaurant. Fried chicken and mashed potatoes? You bet! They also offer dishes closer to home, such as gumbo. Go to drink or to enjoy their famous food. There’s now another location at Pythian Market, with all the same chicken you love. Multiple locations, WillieMaesNola.com

ASIAN Green Tea is not only fantastic but also affordable. They do takeout and delivery for those looking to satisfy their Chinese-food cravings at home. They’re known for their “GT Way,” where you create your own dishes by selecting your choice of meat, a vegetable, and a sauce. 3001 Napoleon Ave., 8998005, greenteanola.com

Mikimoto is sure to please any sushi-lover with its tempura, sesame chicken, tuna tartar, and, of course, sushi. The Crescent City Roll has crab, crawfish, shrimp, and avocado, and they offer rice-less rolls for those going Keto. For something different, try the wasabi mussels. 3301 S. Carrollton Ave., 488-1881, mikimotosushi.com

Copper Vine Winepub Origami captures the seemingly understated yet complex art of sushi. The sushi menu includes over 20 rolls, from salmon to snow crab. Origami has lunch specials and vegetarian alternatives. Try a little hot sake with your “Saints Kick” roll and stay for the banana tempura. 899-6532, 5130 Freret St., origaminola.com

BARS WITH GREAT FOOD 5216 Table & Tap is a classy joint that offers latenight comfort food and drinks. They have tacos, burgers, and all the comfort foods you could want. They also serve pastries from Maurice French Pastries. Try their delicious cocktails from their renovated bar. 5216 Veterans Memorial Blvd., Metairie, 766-1417, 5216tableandtap.com

Copper Vine Winepub is a classy, welcoming establishment known for its nature-filled courtyard, wine on tap, and delicious bites. Their crab deviled eggs, crawfish beignets, and frozen sangria are guest favorites. Copper Vine also sells sangria kits, so you can make some at home. 1001 Poydras St., 208-9535, coppervinewine.com

Fulton Alley has a bowling alley and a bar, with excellent food to enjoy while you knock down a few pins. Popular highlights include the French dip sandwich, “Loaded Baked Potato Tots,” and spinach and artichoke dip. Fulton Alley also takes reservations for private events. 208-5569, 600 Fulton St., fultonalley.com

Orleans Grapevine is a wine bar and bistro located in the heart of the French Quarter. Featuring one of the city’s best wine lists as well as the popular Bacon Happy Hour, this is a great spot for a date or get-together with friends. 720 Orleans St., 5231930, orleansgrapevine.com Rivershack Tavern is a popular spot, boasting an impressive selection of beer and delicious food to boot. They also have an exterior that’s fit for a postcard. Known for their fantastic burgers and wonderful daily specials, Rivershack offers great food to go. 3449 River Rd., Jefferson, 834-4938, rivershacktavern.com

CAFÉS

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Bearcat Cafe features both healthy and hearty options and is known as one of the best brunch spots in town. Visit them for breakfast or lunch, with comfortable patio seating, fantastic cocktails, and their special Alinea coffee. The “Shrimp Daddy

Burrito” is not to be missed. 2521 Jena St., 3099011 bearcatcafe.com

Café 615 (Home of Da Wabbit) is a special Westbank spot that you don’t want to miss. Founded in 1948, this café has served authentic Creole dishes—ranging from turtle soup to crawfish queso—to generations of families. They also have cocktails and draft beer. 615 Kepler St., Gretna, 365-1225, Cafe615.com

Café Navarre is a laid-back café boasting a delectable menu that keeps bringing customers back. They have a spacious porch, which is a big draw on weekends. The “Home of the Froscrew,” their famous frozen screwdriver cocktail, Café Navarre can deliver cheesy pizza or a thick, juicy burger. 800 Navarre Ave., 483-8828, cafenavarre.com

Caffe! Caffe! warrants their name’s enthusiasm. Their multiple locations are renowned for both their coffee and their dining options. They offer madefrom-scratch options, from breakfast sandwiches to fresh juices. Caffe! Caffe! has a number of creative salad and sandwich options as well as their soup du jour. Multiple Locations, CaffeCaffe.com

Riccobono’s Panola Street Cafe is open from Thursday to Sunday every week for breakfast, lunch, and brunch, serving breakfast staples. They have three-egg omelet options, multiple sorts of Eggs Benedict, and pancakes and Belgian waffles. Too decadent? Opt for the egg white plate or oatmeal bowl. 7801 Panola St, 314-1810, panolastreetcafe.com

CARIBBEAN Carmo boasts flavors “from Southeast Asia to West Africa, the Caribbean, South America, and beyond.” Don’t visit without trying one of their fantastic cocktails or fresh tropical juices. They provide a comfortable atmosphere and amazing food. Their cheese-topped Armenian breads are worth a trip alone. 527 Julia St., 875-4132, cafecarmo.com

NOLA Caye is a Caribbean-inspired restaurant in the Warehouse District. They’re a boutique eatery with gorgeous décor—the space has the feeling of an upscale restaurant with a hip, modern vibe. Get fresh and authentic island cuisine, such as conch fritters, jerk chicken, watermelon gazpacho, or fish tacos. 98 Baronne St., 302-1302, nolacaye.com

WhereYat.com | September 2020

FRENCH

cheesecake. Now open for lunch on Saturday. N. Carrollton Ave., 488-7991, venezianeworleans.net

Vyoone’s Restaurant, with its Creole and French influences, serves French dishes, such as escargot, French onion soup, and salade niçoise. The place features a charming patio that’s perfect for enjoying a cocktail. Make a reservation at Vyoone’s for your next date night or special occasion. 412 Girod St., 518-6007, vyoone.com

INDIAN Nirvana, located in the Touro neighborhood, offers some of the city’s best Indian food. Their space has a unique ambience, with Hindu-inspired art lining its walls and outdoor patio seating. You’d be wise to come around midday especially, as they’re known for their lunch buffet. 4308 Magazine St., 8949797, insidenirvana.com

Taj Majal has been serving fine Indian cuisine in Metairie for almost 40 years. Signature dishes include their macchi tikka, a seasonal fish selection marinated and roasted, and their chicken pakoras— fried tenders dipped in a lentil butter. The portions are ginormous, so come hungry! 923 Metairie Rd., Metairie, 836-6859, tajnola.com

ITALIAN Josephine Estelle, run by James Beard Awardwinners, blends Italian cooking with flavors of the American South. They feature both fried chicken with an Italian twist and rigatoni on the same menu. This restaurant offers the best of both worlds: truly fine dining and reasonable prices. 600 Carondelet St., 930-3070, josephineestelle.com

Mosca’s Restaurant serves some of the city’s best Italian food. Even after 60+ years, customers can still get their Shrimp Mosca, Oysters Mosca, or any other of their favorite dishes, like the Italian crab salad. Make sure to hold off for the grand dessert finale: pineapple fluff! 4137 US-90 West, Westwego, 436-8950, moscasrestaurant.com

Pascal’s Manale is known for its fresh oysters and BBQ shrimp, a dish they created. Their Italian dishes include veal piccata and pasta alfredo, but they also offer salads, steaks, and seafood specialties. Grab a cocktail at their bar before or after your meal. 1838 Napoleon Ave., 895-4877, pascalsmanale.com

Venezia has served traditional Italian cuisine “with New Orleans flair” since 1957, including their great pizzas. Get your pie topped with crawfish! Come for their chicken marsala or their veal spinach cannelloni, but don’t leave until you’ve tried their

MEXICAN Carreta's Grill has been serving quality Mexican food for two decades. They have fajitas, tacos, quesadillas, enchiladas, and more. Try a mango or strawberry margarita with chips and fresh guacamole or a giant burrito. They bring a festive ambience to the table and offer excellent takeout, all at frugal prices. Multiple locations, 899-8005, carretasgrillrestaurant.com

Chilango’s has labored to be “not your typical Mexican joint.” They incorporate influences from South and Central America, as well as Europe. Chilango’s relies on authentic ingredients, such as corn, beans, meats, dairy products, and herbs and spices. Don’t miss Ribeye Thursdays, with steak dinners for just $9.75. 1506 S. Carrollton Ave., 7669949, chilangosnola.com

El Paso Mexican Grill serves Tex-Mex food that will make you smile. Think mouthwatering tacos, enchiladas, and margaritas, along with some of the best queso dip in town. With fresh ingredients and quality tequila, El Paso offers Mexican food and drinks that you know will be good. Multiple locations, elpasomexrestaurant.com

MIDDLE EASTERN Lebanon’s Cafe serves traditional Middle Eastern cuisine, including homemade hummus and kabobs. The dining room offers an inviting atmosphere with beautiful murals lining the walls. Try their lunch plates, which come with hummus, salad, and pita. This family-owned spot combines hospitality with affordable prices. 3001 Napoleon Ave., 899-8005, greenteanola.com

NEW ORLEANS CUISINE Chef Ron’s Gumbo Stop is an award-winning gumbo shop, known for its low-key atmosphere and delicious food. They feature genuine Louisianastyle cooking. Sit down for their Mumbo Gumbo, boudin balls, or oyster po-boy. Chef Ron’s is a great portrait of local cooking. 2309 N. Causeway Blvd., Metairie, 835-2022, gumbostop.com

Coterie NOLA Restaurant & Oyster Bar has a posh, French Quarter space. Guests have a versatile range of menu items to choose from. Try their crawfish étouffée, chargrilled oysters, crab cake pasta, or alligator platter. They also have an extensive cocktail menu and an oyster bar. 135 Decatur St., 529-8600, coterienola.com

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New Orleans Creole Cookery Mandina’s offers a combination of Italian and New Orleans cuisine. Guests can get not only fried catfish, but also spaghetti and meatballs. In Italian fashion, they dole it out in heaping portions, so expect to take some home. And it’s now soft-shell crab season at Mandina’s! 3800 Canal St., 4829179, mandinasrestaurant.com/nola

Mardi Gras Zone is a veritable hodgepodge of choice, with restaurant-style food selections, organic groceries, and (as if that weren’t enough) Mardi Gras knickknacks. Where else can you get beads, masks, and delectable pizza all in a one-stop shop? Talk about two birds, one stone. 2706 Royal St., 947-8787, mardigraszone.com

Melba's Poboys is a place of plenty. They’ve got po-boys, from the guilty-pleasure french-fry poboy to a more traditional, shrimp po-boy. They have plate lunches, wings, must-have sides, and frozen daiquiris. Melba’s motto is “Eat at Melba’s, pray before eating, and love New Orleans.” 1525 Elysian Fields Ave., 267-7765, melbas.com

Mother's is a legendary New Orleans establishment that has been serving authentic Creole cuisine in the CBD since 1938. Try their spectacular fried chicken, famous Jerry’s Jambalaya, or their “world’s best” baked ham. And go ahead and sleep in: Breakfast is available all day. 401 Poydras St., 5239656, mothersrestaurant.net

New Orleans Creole Cookery meshes together ambience and cuisine. They offer both a stylish interior as well as a spacious patio area, complete with hanging light fixtures and a fountain. Their menu includes highlights such as “gumbo three different ways” and six unique styles of Hurricane cocktail. 508 Toulouse St., 524-9632, neworleanscreolecookery.com

Neyow’s Creole Café is a black-owned business in Mid-City that serves a lean menu of Creole food. Neyow’s has different specials every day, such as Cornish hen or BBQ shrimp, as well as everyday salads, pasta, po-boys, and more. Sit inside or try their outdoor patio seating. 3332 Bienville St., 8275474, neyows.com

Parkway Bakery has been around since 1911 and has earned its status as a classic. They bring in people from all around the city and beyond with their famous po-boys, such as the alligator smoked sausage and “surf & turf” varieties. They also have a full bar with drink specials. 538 Hagan Ave., 4823047, parkwaypoorboys.com

Parran’s Po-Boys & Restaurant serves poboys, po-boys, and po-boys. Did we mention that Parran’s has po-boys? Not only that, but their menu features a slate of Cajun and Italian options, from Eggplant Parran and spaghetti to red beans and rice. With four locations, Parran’s is bound to be near you. Multiple locations, parranspoboys.com

Poppa's Seafood & Deli has been serving the 9th Ward for 25 years. They combine traditional, Southern, and New Orleans food into one hard-to-forget blend. They’ve got fried chicken, spaghetti and meatballs, and beans and greens. The crawfish pies, bread pudding, and gumbo also get rave reviews. 3311 N. Galvez St., 947-3373

Short Stop Poboys offers a menu of delicious sandwiches for you to enjoy, in six-inch, nine-inch, or massive 14-inch king-size options. Choose from meatball, seafood, french fries, and so much more. Can’t decide? Short Stop will let you go half-andhalf with many of their po-boy fillings. 119 Transcontinental Dr., Metairie, 885-4572, shortstoppoboysno.com

SEAFOOD Briquette is located in a former molasses refinery with an open kitchen, an 18-foot seafood display, and a large bar area. This restaurant has a firstrate atmosphere to match its excellent food. You can’t go wrong with the Louisiana redfish or the Snapper Pontchartrain. 701 S. Peters St., 3027496, briquette-nola.com

Tito’s Ceviche & Pisco brings Peruvian flavors to seafood, including its eponymous ceviche. Tito’s has a number of grab-and-go options available, but advanced reservations are encouraged for on-site dining. They also offer a number of other plates, such as the duck confit with a beer glaze. 5015 Magazine St., 2677612, titoscevichepisco.com

VEGETARIAN Max Well is a high-class vegetarian restaurant that primarily serves nutrient-rich meals, soups, and bowls, but also has a number of other great dishes and juices. And it’s all environmentally friendly and organic. This is an excellent choice if you’re looking for vegetarian dishes that are exciting, flavorful, and healthy. 6101 Magazine St., 301-0510 maxwellneworleans.com

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WhereYat.com | September 2020

Tales from the Quarter By Debbie Lindsey

Experiences Both Grand and Gritty

atrina produced many different stories, no two alike. These thousands of experiences, varied as they are, can be grouped into more finite categories. First, there are the experiences that will never be told—too painful to relive, yet in holding them in, perhaps they take on an emotionally cancer-like power. But loss is so subjective and personal; who am I to say how one should process it? I, on the other hand, belong to that camp of Katrina survivors that you couldn’t hush up. And I’ve thought long on this. Why was Katrina so important to me that, 15 years later, I still feel the need to share my experience and even to go beyond myself to speak of its effect upon our city and our community? To me, Katrina survivors are like veterans of a war. Varying degrees of PTSD were (still are) experienced. While on a lighter note (if such a thing exists), there are tales to share—“war” stories to swap—and, certainly, there is no escaping shared tragedies (“By the time they found Mrs. Lewis in her attic clutching her dog, she was all but crazy—her poor husband dead for days.”). Then there’s the dark humor (“Remember when I called 911, and they went in with hazmat suits, only to retrieve a bag of rotting crawfish?”). And conversations always began with “How much water did you take?” or “When did you get out?” We listened with respect and empathy, yet we always felt we could oneup each other with our experiences. We were survivors of, for some of us, the biggest drama of our lifetimes. For others, it was an all-too-familiar horror story first experienced during Camille or Betsy. I had problems with not being able to let it go. Just ask my editor—I wrote over and over about it, referenced it for several years. Yet it never entered my dreams, not a single nightmare about it—perhaps because I did vent and yammer on so much about the flood/levee failure/government f-up/ mother nature’s fury/the diaspora. Husband (Boyfriend then) and I opened a bookstore three months after the Big K, and for years, visitors to our city wanted the stories. And we were more than willing to share them. Some people, understandably, were sick to death of talking about it—not us. We’re those old vets sharing our moment in infamy, and without one needed drop of exaggeration, we could hold court and watch listeners’ jaws drop. I would talk about our foolish decision to ride it out. The angels who watch over stupid people were kind to us. We were so lucky to have lived in the Quarter, part of that Sliver-by-the-River that was 90 percent spared the flooding. So, on the day after, when floodwaters began to rush toward high ground, our two apartments experienced none of the invasive waters filled with every imaginable toxin, biowaste, and human feces. But all you had to do was walk a couple of blocks down Canal Street or into the Treme to experience

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those waters up to your waist—or to what I referred to as my “good stuff” (“Philipe, don’t even think about us having a stroll down Canal if you ever wanna have sex again!”). We did however, without benefit of either of us having had a tetanus shot in decades, wade up to our knees a couple of times, and, I can assure you, bleach/peroxide/ disinfectant was applied afterwards. Anyway, as I said, we were damn lucky and really had no idea how blessed, until we got out and could see what the world viewed daily via television. Had we lived in any other part of this region, we might have died and certainly might have been rendered homeless. We got out six days after Katrina hit. We kinda stole a car and then returned it to its owner in Dallas—long story, and not as grand a tale when explained. We had become part of the diaspora—refugees, lost souls. Again, we were lucky, and much good fortune came our way as we traveled across the country with plans to remain and settle in San Francisco, and we would have, if New Orleans hadn’t called us back. She gets in your blood, like lead poisoning, and you just cannot get her out—nor would I want to. Because, truth be told, even on my worst day in this crazy town, I love her. She is like family—perhaps dysfunctional, but ours all the same. As I mentioned earlier, there were braggin’ rights, having gone through what we thought would be the biggest thing we would personally experience in our lifetimes. Wrong. COVID-19, The Virus, the new boogieman was on the horizon. Still, to those of us unfamiliar with epidemiology, this very real and very probable scenario was simply not on our radar. But it is now. And, therefore, I find myself once again living in “historical” times—the stuff that will fill our history books. There are times that I feel like a fly on the wall, observing things spinning out of control. It certainly resembles a farfetched apocalyptic movie/novel. Ever feel that you are now a character in Stephen King’s The Stand? These physically and economically perilous moments that we are all experiencing right now should be a sobering reminder that our world comes with no guarantees. Yet perhaps we can at least find some solace in remembering Katrina and knowing that recovery did eventually find us. It found us changed forever. However, lessons were learned, strengths tested, loyalty to our region deepened. Many thought that coming home to New Orleans after The Flood was foolish, that our town and the entire area were devastated beyond redemption. To that I say, “They be wrong.” Hopefully, we can prove, once again, that the fight against destruction, against The Virus, will be worth the efforts. This is my new Katrina, and I hope to be here years from now to write about how we survived. Here’s to our future!

WhereYat.com | September 2020

Po-Boy Views By Phil LaMancusa

Katrina, 15 Years

Gallery B. Fos Thurs. - Sat. 10a-5p | Sun. 11a-3p Mon. - Wed: Appointment Only 2138 Magazine St. | 504-444-2967 www.beckyfos.com

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:10 a.m. Monday, August 29, 2005, Hurricane Katrina slammed into the Southeastern Gulf Coast as a category 3, 4, or 5 storm (depending on your sources), with winds of 127 miles an hour. New Orleans, taking only the outer bands, was still hit hard; by that afternoon, 20 percent of the city was flooded. By August 30, 80 percent of the city was underwater. By September 1, approximately 55,000 people had sought shelter in the Superdome and Convention Center, having refused or been unable to evacuate. Many were still in their homes, many of them dead. Over a million people had fled after hearing the mandatory evacuation order 48 hours before. The last of the water was pumped out of the city on October 11, 43 days after the storm hit. We were, as General Russel L. Honore quipped when seeing the local, state, and federal responses, “Stuck on stupid!” In the aftermath, our city was (almost) completely evacuated, and troops went door to door looking for survivors and bodies. Debbie and I were in the French Quarter, holed up in our apartment on St. Philip and Dauphine Streets for six days before we saw any first responders, and by that time, we had finally found a way out of town. I aged six months in six days. Very few remember or recall those days, and those who do usually don’t want to talk about it. Here’s what I remember: The night before, we went barhopping, played kick the can in the street, and wondered why that pizza delivery was taking so long. First bands of the storm start at 1:15 a.m. A few hours later, Debbie is dragging me and a mattress into the hallway to cower as what feels and sounds like the Four Horsemen of the Apocalypse enacts a no-knock warrant accompanied by chimneys imploding. A 50-year-old cypress tree is bashing the house while conducting a concerto of small tornadoes in the “Wreak Havoc Overture” through the neighborhood. Background music is provided by the Torrents of Rain Orchestra. In the morning (expecting to go for coffee and a New York Times), electricity and water are cut off; the streets are empty. The next day, the last neighbors on our block caravan out. Somebody gives us their dog. Very quiet. Looting starts almost immediately: Cartier, Brooks Brothers, Pottery Barn, convenience stores, WinnDixie; anything that can be taken is taken for little or no apparent reason. One third of the police force drives out of town. Psychiatrists that can prescribe anti-depressants are gone, and folks are off their meds. Charity Hospital is under siege by boat. We clean up debris like good citizens. The weather is hot and there is no air conditioning. Police loot Walmart for electronics, leaving behind, for civilian looters, the guns and ammunition that the store sells. Looters breaking into hardware stores steal bolt cutters; looters use bolt cutters to break into warehouses, stealing forklifts. Armed looters on forklifts off their meds. A kid steals a city

bus and drives folks to Houston. The busses for evacuation are high and dry, but keys are underwater. Curfew imposed. Warm beer at Molly’s at the Market, solidarity, and community updates. Cops put snipers on rooftops to discourage looters. Governor: “Shoot looters on sight.” Mayor hiding out in a hotel; George Bush does a flyover. Esplanade Avenue is impassable due to fallen trees and debris. Water in the street, petrochemical waste, medical waste, human waste, decaying animal waste. Explosions on the river Wednesday night. Rapes. A couple of corpses reported, abandoned on streets. Folks drifting into town from Lower Nine. Animals not allowed in shelters and being turned loose; reports of dogs being shot to discourage “packing.” No ice, no refrigeration, no toilets, no bathing (no water). No lights at night besides gaslights. The kindness of strangers, food-sharing, help with bolt cutters to free a chained dog. The Nelly Deli gives away supplies on credit. We now are caring for four dogs and three cats. Our house is known as “Dogpatch.” A radio reports, “French Quarter looks like an island. The 'sliver by the river' holds, all else underwater.” Animals coming out to avoid drowning—alligators, raccoons, snakes, and rodents, seeking higher ground like people do. People rescued from rooftops only to find that there’s no way out of the city, people turned away at gunpoint from crossing into Algiers. Nita and Jeffery have their apartment taken away at gunpoint. Reports of trucks with bodies being dumped in the river, running gun battles. We’re holed up on the second floor, banging tin sheeting to discourage “visitors.” A radio announces that thousands have been standing on the overpass for days, waiting. “Where are they going to the bathroom?” one reporter asks. “They’re crowded together!” Looters set up a market in the Convention Center, which was broken into by folks not wanting to go to the Superdome, where that roof has blown partially off. A fire at Saks Fifth Avenue set by looters and a scramble for water to put it out. Police tell us not to ride bikes because people are getting “bike-jacked” for a way out of town. Food rotting in refrigerators and restaurants (it’s Labor Day weekend; people stocked up). Reports of a car to be had if we can get to it. Cemeteries flood, and bodies rise to the surface. We’re invited to a meeting at the Bourbon Orleans ballroom where the topic to be is the intentional flooding of the French Quarter to ease the outlying areas. Those left here transmit information and hearsay as they get it—some is rumor, and some turns out to be uncomfortable truths. Fifteen years later, we veterans of Katrina find nothing about the coronavirus extraneous or dismissive. But still, ask any one of us, and we’ll tell you that we’ve been through worse. Quit your bitching and put on a mask. As deadly as COVID-19 is, I wish Katrina had been this easy to deal with.

WhereYat.com | September 2020