WHERE Y'AT - Fall Restaurant Guide - OCTOBER Issue

October 2020

WhereYat.com

DINING • MUSIC • ENTERTAINMENT • NIGHTLIFE

CHEF SUSAN SPICER p. 6

FALL RESTAURANT GUIDE

Outdoor Adventures | Louisiana Cuisine | Premier Shopping

a place where we serve a whole sea of food on a platter

Just next door to New Orleans, Jefferson Parish is at your service. Our collection of restaurants serve up tradition, culture and flavor in every bite!

Our diverse cuisine ranges from southern classics to international fare. From casual, family-friendly, chic and trendy, to fine dining, Jefferson’s eateries

IS I

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remain at your service!

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Jefferson Parish

Oyster Trail

W W W . AT Y O U R S E R V I C E J E F F E R S O N . C O M | 5 0 4 . 7 3 1 . 7 0 8 3 | T O L L F R E E 1 . 8 7 7. 5 7 2 . 7 4 7 4

CONTENTS October 2020 Publisher/Editor-in-Chief: Josh Danzig Executive Editor: Kathy Bradshaw Movie Editors: David Vicari & Fritz Esker

Features

Food & Drink

Contributing Writers: Emily Hingle, Phil LaMancusa, Debbie Lindsey, Kim Ranjbar, Kathy Bradshaw, Burke Bischoff, Steven Melendez, Kimmie Tubre, Carolyn Heneghan, Eliana Blum, Michelle Nicholson, Sabrina Stone, Celeste Turner, Andrew Alexander

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Chef Susan Spicer

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$20 & Under

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Fall Restaurant Guide

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Farmstands

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Skincare for Mask-Wearing

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International Markets

Director of Sales: Stephen Romero

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College Football Preview

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Black-Owned Restaurants

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Fall Fashion

Photographers & Designers: Gus Escanelle, Kimmie Tubre, Emily Hingle, Kyla Veal, Annabel Morrison Interns: Melanie Hucklebridge, Lawrence Bourgeois, Brhea Washington, Abbey Hebert, Blake Anderson, Brittney Forbes, Amanda Gomez, Olivia G Wimberly Subscribe: Receive 1 year (14 issues) for $30 and get a FREE Where Y’at CD. Subscribe today at WhereYat.com.

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Where Y’at Magazine 5500 Prytania St., #133 New Orleans, LA 70115 (504) 891-0144 info@whereyat.com WhereYat.com

Letter from the Publisher Hungry? Enjoy this new Fall Restaurant Guide, featuring signature entrees from some of the city’s top restaurants. Find a dish that looks enticing and go try it today.

Susan Spicer is one of the city’s top chefs. Don’t miss Kim Ranjbar’s interview that explores Spicer’s restaurants from the formal Bayona to the more casual Rosedale in Lakeview.

Another delicious feature is Michelle Nicholson’s look at great Black-owned restaurants. And if you plan on cooking at home, don’t miss Steve Melendez’s profile of local farmstands and Kimmie Tubre’s rundown of international markets.

College football has returned, and Andrew Alexander previews Tulane and LSU as they attempt to continue their winning ways.

Halloween is around the corner, and what better excuse to wear a mask? Watch out for our special Halloween issue out soon!

–Josh Danzig, Publisher

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WhereYat.com | October 2020

5

SUSAN SPICER:

True to Herself

By Kim Ranjbar

Despite founding several successful restaurants, winning local and national awards, and making television appearances, Chef Susan Spicer remains d own - t o - e ar t h , sincerely genial, and passionate about making great food.

Right up there with Paul Prudhomme and Emeril Lagasse, Susan Spicer has earned her position as one of New Orleans’s most notable chefs. Though she’s been a part of the local restaurant scene since 1979, earning her chops while apprenticed to Chef Daniel Bonnet at the Louis XVI Restaurant and taking the helm at the intimate Bistro at Maison de Ville, her career started to soar in earnest when she partnered with Regina Keever to open Bayona inside a 200-year-old cottage during the spring of 1990. Only three years after opening her famous French Quarter restaurant, expanding diners’ expectations and palates with creative, globally influenced cuisine, Spicer won the award for Best Chef Southeast from the James Beard Foundation.

While still heading the kitchen at Bayona, Spicer launched Spice, Inc., a specialty food market and artisan bakery that also offered cooking classes, a venture that morphed into WildFlour Breads. In 2000, Spicer joined forces with Chef Donald Link and two other partners to co-found the popular Warehouse District restaurant Herbsaint, an eatery which earned Link his own James Beard Award in 2007. In 2010, Spicer was not only inducted into the James Beard Foundation’s Who’s Who of Food and Beverage in America, she also opened Mondo in Lakeview, which remained a neighborhood favorite for almost a decade until it shuttered only late last year. A condensed version of Mondo was set to reopen in the brand-new Louis Armstrong

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International Airport, but COVID-19 and its effects on travel and tourism have temporarily put those plans on hold.

Most recently, in 2016, Spicer opened the casual neighborhood joint Rosedale inside a building that formerly housed the Third District Police station, which served Lakeview, West End, and Gentilly for over half a century. Though Bayona has been on hiatus since the shutdowns began in March of this year, Rosedale is still going strong, offering dine-in and takeout for both lunch and dinner.

With all of these achievements under her proverbial belt, including many other accolades and accomplishments not mentioned above, one might expect this chef’s head to be a touch too big for her toque, but in fact, quite the opposite is true. Spicer is ever-ready with a laugh, open, and genuinely in love with food.

Growing up, Spicer was the second youngest in a family of seven children, “Navy brats” who were all born in different cities, ranging from Key West, Florida (Spicer’s birthplace), to Newport, Rhode Island. The family even spent three years in a small village in the Netherlands before moving to their final destination in New Orleans in August of 1960. “We moved to the Westbank, near the Naval station over there,” says Spicer. “I just remember all of us getting off the plane and getting smacked in the face with the heat. We were like ‘Whoa, what is this?’”

Spicer’s undeniable affection for food originated with her mother, a Danish woman who was an adventurous cook, trying her hand at the world’s cuisines in her own kitchen. “We ate a lot of Indonesian food in Holland. They would have rijsttafel [lots of side dishes served with rice] delivered to the house,” explains Spicer. “So, she learned to cook a lot of curries and things like that. She was always mixin’ it up at home, cooking different things.”

While her mother never offered step-by-step cooking instructions, Spicer would often sit on the kitchen counter and watch. “We all liked being in the kitchen with her and tasting things,” says Spicer. “We’re all food-lovers in my family.”

Although all of her siblings share a love of good food, Spicer and her younger brother were the only ones to pursue a career in the industry. “He worked on a farm selling specialty produce to local restaurants and was a big player in the food scene in Dallas” says Spicer.

After graduating from high school and spending only one year in college at UNO, Spicer drifted around a bit, traveling to different parts of the country before coming back home to New Orleans. In the mid-70s, Spicer became friends with a woman who got her into the cooking groove. “She was a great cook, and we started doing dinner parties together—just cooking socially. Back then, you’re smoking a lot of pot, and making food was a really great thing to do,” says Spicer, laughing.

When her friend began cooking professionally, Spicer went along for the ride and found herself cooking at Louis XVI, and she stuck with it, even after her friend moved on. “I just never looked back,” says Spicer. “[Cooking] is just satisfying to me on lots of different levels.”

Though the Crescent City may not be her birthplace, Spicer has made it—and specifically the neighborhood of Lakeview—her home, and she’s determined to stay.

Like many New Orleanians, Spicer lost her home in the 2005 levee failures and rebuilt it again, but some may not know that she had also lost that same house to a fire that occurred eight years before in 1997. Spicer was having dinner at a small restaurant on a tiny island off the coast of Ireland when she got the call.

“It’s a restaurant that you have to take a boat to. They only seat like 20 people,” says Spicer. “We’re having dinner when the phone rings off in the distance, and someone comes to the table and says, ‘Are you Susan Spicer?’ and all I could think was, ‘Oh shit, this can’t be good!’” As it turns out, Spicer’s friend who was watching the house got a little too inebriated on the 4th of July, began cooking, and passed out. Luckily, both her friend and her cats made it out all right. “So it burnt down, and I rebuilt it, and then it flooded, and I rebuilt it again! I really like it,” says Spicer with a laugh. “And it gets better every time.”

These days, she spends half of her time at Rosedale and the other half enjoying time with husband and former chef William “Chip” Martinson. Spicer met Martinson through mutual friend and fellow chef Tenney Flynn. They became friends, but at the time, both Spicer and Martinson were in other relationships, and it wasn’t until several years had passed that they finally got together. “He got divorced, and I broke up with yet another boyfriend, so we got together, and I said, ‘You should marry me,’ jokes Spicer. “Well, it was more that I just suggested that it was time for him to ask me.”

The couple were married on an icy day in February of 2004 at the Elms Mansion on St. Charles Avenue. With her new husband, Spicer gained two stepchildren and a dog. “I never really thought about marriage,” says Spicer. “I was always like CareerGirl Barbie instead of Wedding Day Barbie. But all it takes is the right person.”

After getting married, Spicer and Martinson wondered how a couple who were both working in the restaurant industry would have time for two children who were five and seven at the time. “[My husband] was like, ‘I’ve always wanted to try woodworking,’” says Spicer. “As it turns out, he’s really good at it!”

Martinson opened his own furniture shop in the Bywater called Monkey Wid-a-Fez (NolaMonkey.com) and went on to not only create a lot of the furniture for both Rosedale and Mondo, but for many other New Orleans-area restaurants, such as Ancora, Elizabeth’s, Station 6, Coquette, and Boucherie.

In the midst of the pandemic, Spicer’s main focus is her work at Rosedale, the Lakeview restaurant that is off the beaten path, but once you get there, you’ll always know how to get back. “Our motto is ‘hard to find, easy to get to,’” she says, smiling.

A casual, family-style restaurant, Rosedale offers cuisine that possesses the same quality ingredients and skilled preparation found at her high-end French Quarter restaurant Bayona, but with a hefty dose of nonchalance. “It’s the kind of food I tend to eat when I am cooking at home,” says Spicer. “It’s laid-back. That’s what it’s meant to be.”

Though she tries to keep a Louisiana feel to her menu, it’s often difficult for Spicer because her tastes run internationally, so lately, she’s been riding on her whims. “Right now, I’ve been doing anything I want, anything I feel like doing,” confides Spicer.

For example, this past 4th of July, Rosedale offered a takeout menu featuring elote, or Mexican street corn; Peruvian ceviche with aji-amarillo peppers and passionfruit juice; and beef, black bean, and cheese pupusas. But for those seeking her BBQ shrimp with a Leidenhemier pistolette or the cochon de lait po-boy, there’s no need to fret—it’s still on the menu.

WhereYat.com | October 2020

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CBD / WAREHOUSE DISTRICT Briquette is located in a former molasses refinery, with an open kitchen and a large bar area. This restaurant has a first-rate atmosphere to match its excellent food.

You can’t go wrong with the Tuna Crudo appetizer or the Snapper Pontchartrain entree. Try their blackened redfish with a side of grilled Gulf shrimp and some chardonnay butter sauce for a delicious off-the-grill experience. 701 S. Peters St., 504-302-7496, briquette-nola.com

Legacy Kitchen’s Craft Tavern offers a refreshing take on New Orleans classics.

With Legacy’s daily brunch until noon, diners can indulge in beignets or buildyour-own waffles. For dinner, try their Redfish St. Charles, served with asparagus and crawfish cornbread casserole. All dishes can be paired excellently with one of their signature craft cocktails. 700 Tchoupitoulas St., 504-613-2350, LegacyKitchen.com

Carmo boasts flavors “from Southeast Asia to West Africa, the Caribbean, South America, and beyond.” Don’t visit without trying one of their fantastic cocktails or fresh tropical juices. They provide a comfortable atmosphere and amazing food that is perfect for vegetarians and carnivores alike. Next time you head there, be sure to order their tiradito, a Peruvian-style sashimi with yellow chili peppers. 527 Julia St., 504-875-4132, cafecarmo.com

Mother’s is a legendary establishment known for its fantastic New Orleans cuisine.

Try their fried chicken or their “world’s best” baked ham. The Combination Platter, which comes with either shrimp creole or shrimp étouffée, along with Jerry’s Jambalaya, red beans and rice, potato salad, and a side, is a can’t-miss. And go ahead and sleep in: Breakfast is served all day. 401 Poydras St., 504-523-9656, mothersrestaurant.net

Copper Vine is known for its nature-filled courtyard, 30 wines on tap, and delicious bites. It has one of the best wine menus in town, with options by the glass or the bottle. Their crab deviled eggs, crawfish beignets, and frozen sangria are guest favorites. Exclusively on their fall menu, their duck gnocchi will make you savor the fall season even more. 1001 Poydras St., 504-208-9535, coppervinewine.com

NOLA Caye is a Caribbean-inspired restaurant in the Warehouse District.

They’re a boutique eatery with gorgeous décor—the space has the feeling of an upscale restaurant with a hip, modern vibe.

Get fresh and authentic island cuisine, such as conch fritters, jerk chicken, watermelon gazpacho, or fish tacos. Don’t miss their creative cocktails to accompany your meal. 98 Baronne St., 504-302-1302, nolacaye.com

Josephine Estelle, run by James Beard Award-winners, blends Italian cooking with flavors of the American South. They feature fried chicken with an Italian twist and rigatoni on the same menu. Their fried Brussels sprout salad is healthy yet fun—an unexpected fusion of cardamom, yogurt, sourdough, lima beans, and golden raisins.

This restaurant offers the best of both worlds: truly fine dining and reasonable prices. 600 Carondelet St., 504-9303070, josephineestelle.com

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Seaworthy features locally caught and sustainably harvested seafood with a global flair. It’s a culinary heaven for seafood aficionados and dabblers alike. For a petite plate, the mussels, served in a light chorizo broth, packs an impressive amount of flavor. Profits from their handcrafted cocktails help fund the Gulf Coast Restoration Initiative. 630 Carondelet St., 504-930-3071, SeaworthyNola.com

Sofia, serving authentic Italian cuisine with a modern twist, aims to create a relaxed but vibrant environment for guests. The menu features seasonally driven small plates, pastas made by hand, and wood-fired pizza.

For beverages, Sofia has a fabulous wine list along with craft beer and Italian-inspired cocktails. Try their scallops, served with peas, mushrooms, and fennel puree and sauced with a fennel pollen vinaigrette. 516 Julia St., 504-322-3216, sofianola.com

The Steakhouse at Harrah’s combines local ingredients and techniques with high-end steakhouse menu items. Order a filet, NY strip, Wagyu skirt steak, or ribeye and make it “surf-and-turf”-style by topping it with shrimp. The Steakhouse is one of only 28 restaurants in New Orleans to be recognized for its extensive and sophisticated wine collection.

228 Poydras St., 504-533-6111, caesars.com/harrahs-new-orleans/ restaurants/the-steakhouse

FRENCH QUARTER

Bennachin blends influences from places such as Gambia and Cameroon with equally exotic flavors. Cope ni Makondo, one of their delicious specialty dishes, is grilled chicken breast with sides of fried plantains, sauteed spinach, and coconut rice. Boasting a calm and attractive atmosphere, Bennachin has something appetizing on the menu, whether you’re a vegan or an omnivore.

1212 Royal St., 504-522-1230, bennachinrestaurant.com

Desire Oyster Bar delivers an authentic New Orleans experience. If you are an oyster fan, take a seat at the raw bar to watch expert shuckers prepare chargrilled oysters and oysters on the half shell. Don’t want oysters? Opt for their fried chicken and waffles, served with hot honey and cane syrup. Look for the Broadway-style sign lighting up the corner of Bourbon and Bienville Streets, and you’ll know that you’ve arrived. 300 Bourbon St., 504-5532281, sonesta.com/us/louisiana/neworleans/royal-sonesta-new-orleans/ desire-oyster-bar

Jimmy J’s Café is known as Nawlins’ Funkiest Lil’ Café. This eatery serves the most Instagram-worthy food for lunch, dinner, and all-day breakfast. You’ll never want to leave without first trying their French Toast Monte Cristo, which is served with shaved ham, bacon, cheese, and maple syrup and comes with a side of home fries. 115 Chartres St., 504-309-9360, jimmyjscafe.com

New Orleans Creole Cookery blends together ambience and cuisine. They offer a stylish interior as well as a spacious patio area, complete with hanging lights and a fountain. Their menu includes highlights such as great gumbo, raw oysters, and six unique styles of Hurricane cocktail.

Try the redfish almondine, an almondcrusted battered fish that is a tasty staple of the Creole Cookery tradition.

508 Toulouse St., 504-24-9632, neworleanscreolecookery.com

Orleans Grapevine is a wine bar and bistro located in the heart of the French Quarter, with over 375 different bottled wines. It’s a true hidden gem away from the hustle and bustle of the Viuex Carré.

Grab a seat in their cozy courtyard for a breath of fresh air, and pair a glass of fine wine with a cheese board or their ahi tuna dish. 720 Orleans St., 504-523-1930, orleansgrapevine.com

JEFFERSON

Rivershack Tavern is a cross between a classic tavern, a sports bar, and a smalltown restaurant. They are best known for their delicious food, patio seating, and stylized “bar leg” barstools. But don’t get so distracted by the atmosphere that you forget to dig in. Their BBQ bacon cheeseburger, made with housemade jalapeno BBQ sauce and served on French bread, is a sure winner. 3449 River Rd., 504-834-4938, RivershackTavern.com

LAKEVIEW Elle-J’s offers Creole-Italian food, seafood, steaks, and more. Included on their menu is chef Ludovic “Vic” Gerrets’s famous Shrimp Lucia: jumbo shrimp sautéed with garlic, mushrooms, and sundried tomatoes, tossed in a light butter sauce and served over linguini. Join Elle-J’s mid-week for Wine Wednesdays, when you can enjoy an awesome meal with half-off bottled wines from 3 p.m. – 9 p.m. 900 Harrison Ave., 504-459-2262, ellejslakeview.com

Lakeview Harbor, “home of Lakeview’s original burger,” features salads, steaks, po-boys, wraps, pizza, and seafood, just to name a few. They have daily specials, including red beans with smoked sausage on Mondays and chicken-fried steak on Tuesdays. They even serve breakfast.

Be sure to try their cheeseburger, which is topped with a pile of shredded cheese and served with a baked potato. 8550 Pontchartrain Ave., 504-486-4887, lakeviewharbor.us

WhereYat.com | October 2020

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MARIGNY / BYWATER

Carnaval Lounge’s kitchen, Cozinha de Carnaval, serves traditional Brazilian street food that combines local Louisiana influences with classic South American recipes. Dishes include grilled and skewered meats and vegetables, small plates, and delicious burgers served with regular or yucca fries. Take a bite of their frango chicken skewer, cooked with bacon and seasoned with your favorite fragrant herbs. 2227 St. Claude Ave., 504-2658855, carnavallounge.com

Melba’s Poboys is a place of plenty.

They’ve got po-boys, from the guiltypleasure french-fry po-boy to a more traditional shrimp po-boy. They also offer plate lunches, wings, must-have sides, and frozen daiquiris. Melba’s motto is “Eat at Melba’s, pray before eating, and love New Orleans.” Come eat an authentic shrimp po-boy from a restaurant well known and favored in the neighborhood. 1525 Elysian Fields Ave., 504-267-7765, melbas.com

Poppa's Seafood & Deli has been serving the Ninth Ward for 25 years.

They combine traditional, Southern, and New Orleans food into one hard-to-forget blend. They’ve got fried chicken, spaghetti and meatballs, and beans and greens. The crawfish pies, bread pudding, and gumbo also get rave reviews. Choose their catfish platter, shrimp po-boy, or oyster po-boy for a deliciously satisfying meal that you won’t soon forget. 3311 N. Galvez St., 504-947-3373

METAIRIE 5216 Table & Tap is a classy joint that primarily offers classic American fare and drinks. They have tacos, burgers, salads, sandwiches, and steaks. They also serve desserts from Maurice French Pastries.

Try a delicious craft cocktail from their renovated bar to go with the cheesiest cheeseburger you could hope for, served with a side of fries. 5216 Veterans Memorial Blvd., 504-766-1417, 5216tableandtap.com

Chef Ron’s Gumbo Stop is an awardwinning gumbo shop, known for its atmosphere and delicious food that focuses on Louisiana-style cooking. Their famous loaded gumbo is chock full of chicken, seafood, crawfish, and okra. Get it “Mega” by adding catfish, oysters, and shrimp on top. They also serve boudin balls and classic fried shrimp po-boys. Chef Ron’s is a great portrait of local cooking. 2309 N. Causeway Blvd., 504-835-2022, gumbostop.com

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The Duke’s legend lies in the food, and their fried mac and cheese and burgers are definitely legendary. They also serve salads, pasta, hot dogs, and fried dessert.

Fried bread pudding, anyone? Anything fried ought to be tried. One of their most legendary dishes, referred to as “The Hangover,” is a burger patty dressed with scrambled eggs, bacon, cheddar, and gravy—a unique and gratifying combo.

2740 Severn Ave., 504-353-4227, thedukemetairie.com

The Galley Seafood provides a wide array of options for seafood-lovers and Southern-food-lovers alike. They feature freshly boiled crabs, fried shrimp, and gumbo, and The Galley has authentic platters that are sure to satisfy your cravings for all your favorite Louisiana dishes. This is also the home of the softshell crab po-boy that you know and love from Jazz Fest. 2535 Metairie Rd., 504832-0955, thegalleyseafood.net

Nephew’s Ristorante is a family business based on recipes handed down through the generations. This beloved ristorante offers fresh and delicious Italian meals, from minestrone to osso bucco, at excellent prices. Chef Frank Catalanotto’s menu also includes multi-course meals starting at $30. Guests can order a petite filet, an Italian Salad, and pasta bordelaise, all for just $38. 4445 West Metairie Ave., 504533- 9998, nephewsristorante.com

Short Stop Poboys doesn’t play when it comes to making the city’s famed sandwich. They treat it like an artform. You can personalize your po-boy with meats and extras, creating the sandwich of your stomach’s dreams. Feeling indecisive? We recommend the roast beef po-boy. Or, if you want something fried, get the doublebreaded and crisp soft-shell crab. 119 Transcontinental Dr., 504-885-4572, ShortStopPoboysNo.com

Spudly’s Super Spuds features the potato as the center of the culinary experience, showcasing the versatility of this starchy side dish. This restaurant’s Super Duper baked potato is a special Louisiana-influenced dish, which comes with conventional toppings, such as cheese sauce, cheddar, and chives, along with crabmeat, shrimp, and crawfish. Spudly’s also serves a variety of sandwiches, soups, salads, and more. 2609 Harvard Ave., 504-455-3250, Spudlys.com

WhereYat.com | October 2020

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MID-CITY

Crescent City Steakhouse is a New Orleans staple. This iconic steakhouse has been around for 85 years and is currently open Tuesday through Thursday with altered hours. Dishes like the batter-fried wings are reasons to show up on their own, and the delectable bacon-wrapped filet mignon will leave you wanting seconds. The secret?

For four generations, the chefs have been cooking their steaks in sizzling butter.

1001 N. Broad St., 504-821-3271, crescentcitysteaks.com

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Mandina’s offers a combination of Italian and New Orleans cuisine. Guests can get not only fried catfish, but also spaghetti and meatballs. And in Italian fashion, they dole it out in heaping portions, so expect to take some home. One of their specialities is their Gulf Fish Almandine served with fries. Arrive early to avoid the wait, as the word is out that this is one of the city’s best. 3800 Canal St., 504-482-9179, mandinasrestaurant.com/nola

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Fall Restaurant Guide | Where Y'at Magazine

Neyow’s Creole Café is a black-owned business in Mid-City that serves a full menu of Creole food. Neyow’s has different specials every day, such as Cornish hen or BBQ shrimp, as well as everyday salads, pasta, po-boys, and more. Start off with their famous chargrilled oysters and follow that up with grilled redfish or a pork chop plate. Sit inside or try their outdoor patio seating. 3332 Bienville St., 504-8275474, neyows.com

Venezia has served traditional Italian cuisine “with New Orleans flair” since 1957.

Come for their chicken marsala, 8-ounce filet, or veal spinach cannelloni, and stay for their cheesecake. Venezia also has great pizzas—get your pie topped with crawfish! Or experience one of their New Orleans-style Italian dishes, such as the Veal Pontchartrain. Now open for lunch on Saturdays. N. Carrollton Ave., 504-4887991, venezianeworleans.net

MULTIPLE LOCATIONS

Bearcat Café features both healthy and hearty options: Their menu is split into “Good Cat” (for lighter fare) and “Bad Cat” (something more sinful) sections.

Visit them for breakfast, lunch, or brunch, with comfortable patio seating, fantastic cocktails, and their special Alinea coffee.

Their specialty breakfast Cat Daddy Biscuit is served with chicken, Cajun gravy, and a sunny egg. Multiple Locations, bearcatcafe.com

Caffe! Caffe! warrants its name’s enthusiasm. Their multiple locations are renowned for both their coffee and their cuisine. They offer made-from-scratch options, from breakfast sandwiches to fresh juices. Caffe! Caffe! has a number of creative salad and sandwich selections, as well as their soup du jour. Try their avocado salad, served with gorgonzola, walnuts, orange slices, onions, and a mango vinaigrette dressing. Multiple Locations, caffecaffe.com

Carreta’s Grill has been serving quality food for two decades. Try a mango or strawberry margarita with chips and fresh guacamole or a giant burrito. The Parrillada de Campo is a feast that feeds three to four people and covers all the bases: It comes with beef, chicken, sausage, and shrimp, along with rice, beans (two varieties), tortillas, sour cream, pico de gallo, and guacamole. Olé! Multiple locations, carretasgrillrestaurant.com

LEBANON’S CAFE

MIDDLE EAST CUISINE √ A HEALTHY ALTERNATIVE Great Selection Of Vegetarian Dishes

Lunch & Dinner 7 Days A Week

APPETIZERS Humus √ Falafel √ Bathenjan Dip (Roasted Eggplant w/ Garlic) √ Vegetarian Grape Leaves

DINNERS Shish Kabob (Chicken, Lamb or Beef ) √ Lula Kabob (Lamb) √ Humus w/ Lamb Meat √ Rosemary Lamb Chops

1500 S. CARROLLTON √ 862-6200 Order Online at LebanonsCafe.com

Daisy Dukes offers Southern dining in a relaxed atmosphere—good food with a casual vibe. You can find them at locations throughout the city, should you need to make a pit stop during your day (or night) to refuel. Their Diner Delight Sandwich is a delightful combination of bacon, scrambled eggs, and fried chicken, sandwiched between two waffles and served with a breakfast gravy dipping sauce. Multiple Locations, daisydukesrestaurant.com

El Paso Mexican Grill serves Tex-Mex food that will make you smile. Think mouthwatering tacos, enchiladas, nachos, and fajitas, along with some of the best queso dip in town. With fresh ingredients and quality tequila, El Paso offers Mexican food that has been perfected by three generations of chefs. Don’t pass up one of their amazing margaritas, frozen or on the rocks, to go with your meal. Multiple locations, elpasomexrestaurant.com

Felipe’s Mexican Taqueria is one of the best-known Mexican restaurants in New Orleans. With multiple locations across the city, the chances are good that there’s one convenient for you. Choose between their numerous taco, burrito, and quesadilla options. Everyone loves their Baja Tacos, which come with either shrimp or fish. Do them up right by adding pickled cabbage, pico de gallo, and baja sauce. Multiple locations, felipestaqueria.com

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Felix’s Restaurant & Oyster Bar represents one of the most beloved New Orleans institutions, having served locals fresh and delicious oysters and more since 1940. Whether you like your oysters raw, chargrilled, or fried, Felix’s has something for you. Satisfy you seafood hankering or enjoy numerous New Orleans-based dishes, such as red beans and rice, crawfish etouffée, shrimp and grits, and jambalaya.

Multiple Locations, Felixs.com

Green Tea is not only fantastic, but also affordable. They’re known for their “GT Way,” which allows you to create your own dishes by selecting a meat, a vegetable, and a sauce. Healthy eater? Plenty of lighter options are also available, and just ask for brown rice. Green Tea also does takeout and delivery, for those looking to satisfy their Chinese-food cravings at home. 3001 Napoleon Ave., 504-8998005, greenteanola.com

Willie Mae’s is a quintessential New Orleans restaurant. Fried chicken and mashed potatoes? You bet! Their “Fried Chicken Plate” is the definition of soul food.

They also offer dishes closer to home, such as gumbo. There’s now another location at Pythian Market, with all the same chicken you love. Come taste why the Food Network and Travel Channel deemed them “America’s Best Fried Chicken.” Multiple locations, williemaesnola.com

Lebanon’s Café offers traditional options, including homemade Lebanese tea and delicious kabobs. Order one of their lunch plates, which come with hummus, salad, and pita, or try their Rosemary Lamb Chops—a full 16 ounces of lamb, charbroiled with spices, rosemary, and olive oil. This spot combines the hospitality of a family-owned restaurant with affordable prices. 1500 S. Carrollton Ave., 504-862-6200, lebanonscafe.com

UPTOWN

Apolline offers locally sourced ingredients and flavors from around the world. They offer a wide array of affordably priced wines, handcrafted cocktails, and elegant and modern Louisiana cuisine. Served with a side of roasted asparagus and potatoes, their Pan-Seared Verlasso Salmon is delectable and finished in a dijon-dill vinaigrette.

Check out their cozy-chic double shotgun cottage for a great dining experience.

4729 Magazine St., 504-894-8881, apollinerestaurant.com

Bayou Hot Wings does wings right.

They put care into each perfectly cooked wing—24 hours of seasoning and brining’s worth! Don’t miss out on their popular house-made sauces, such as Bayou Sweet Heat and Bayou Hotboy, and sides including potato salad and Creole coleslaw, also made in-house. Try the Bayou Hot Wing Challenge for a chance to have your meal comped and your picture on the Wall of Fame.

6221 S. Claiborne Ave., 504-865-9464, bayouhotwings.com

Chilango’s is “not your typical Mexican joint.” Incorporating influences from South and Central America and Europe, Chilango’s relies on authentic ingredients, such as corn, beans, meats, dairy products, and herbs and spices. Can’t choose just one of their abundance of meats? Try their Molcajete, which has chicken, pork, beef, sausage, shrimp, and cheese, served with rice, beans, tortillas, and salad. 1506 S. Carrollton Ave., 504766-9949, chilangosnola.com

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Liberty Cheesesteaks, founded by two long-time friends who met while studying at Tulane, boasts some of the best cheesesteaks this side of Philadelphia.

Try the classic variety, get a cheesesteak served over giant french fries, or go for Cheese Wiz instead of provolone. They even have chicken options. Stop by their drive-thru, if you’re on-the-go, or sit down to a meal and catch a game on TV. 5041 Freret St., 504-875-4447, libertycheesesteaks.com

Mikimoto is sure to please with its tempura, tuna tartar, and, of course, excellent selection of sushi. The Crescent City Roll has crab, crawfish, shrimp, and avocado, and they offer rice-less rolls for those going Keto. For something different, try the wasabi mussels or the squid steak.

Enjoy your sushi while sipping a Tiki Bowl cocktail for two. 3301 S. Carrollton Ave., 504-488-1881, mikimotosushi.com

Please U Restaurant serves traditional Louisiana food. Started by Greek restaurateurs in 1946, this family business has become an institution on the Avenue.

They’re open from 7 a.m. until 3 p.m., so hit them up for a breakfast or lunch to remember. Many swear that Please U has one of the city’s best oyster po-boys, and the red beans and rice with sausage is unforgettable. 1751 St. Charles Ave., 504-525-9131, pleaseunola.com

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MUSIC

FOOD

DRINKS

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Pascal’s Manale, owned and operated by the Ray Brandt family, is known for its fresh oysters and BBQ shrimp, a dish they created. They serve delicious Italian dishes, as well as salads, steaks, and seafood specialties. They are currently open Tuesdays and Saturdays from 4 p.m. until 9 p.m. and Wednesday through Friday from 11:30 a.m. until 9 p.m. and are closed on Sundays and Mondays.

1838 Napoleon Ave., 504-895-4877, pascalsmanale.com

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Tito’s Ceviche & Pisco brings Peruvian flavors to seafood, including their eponymous ceviche. They also offer a number of other plates, such as duck confit with a beer glaze. Take a bite of their Causa de Cangrejo, a seafood salad with Louisiana crab meat, aji potatoes, avocados, olives, and eggs. But a trip to Tito’s wouldn’t be complete without sipping some of their famous pisco, on its own or in a cocktail.

5015 Magazine St., 504-267-7612, titoscevichepisco.com

The Vintage serves everything from fantastic breakfasts to delectable sandwiches to late-night bites. Beignets and coffee are among their staples—opt for traditional beignets or try them with eggs and gravy. The relaxing atmosphere almost makes you forget the state of the world, and if not, their crawfish queso will.

Take advantage of their $6 house cocktails, beers, wines, and appetizers, from 3 p.m. to 6 p.m. daily. 3121 Magazine St., 504324-7144, thevintagenola.com

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WESTBANK

Café 615 (Home of Da Wabbit) is a special Westbank spot that you don’t want to miss. Founded in 1948, this café has served authentic Creole dishes— ranging from turtle soup to crawfish queso—to generations of families. Be sure to grab a bite of their grilled yellowfin tuna salad, topped with your favorite veggies and mozzarella and cheddar cheese. They also offer cocktails and draft beer. 615 Kepler St., Gretna, 504-365-1225, cafe615.com

A New Orleans Tradition Since 1913

A pleasurable dining experience is waiting for you. Italian dishes, fresh seafood & delicious steaks. Have your special occasion or business function with us. Private rooms available. Ample off-street parking.

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Closed Sun. & Mon. Tues. Dinner Open at 4 Wed. through Fri. Lunch & Dinner Open at 11:30 Saturday Dinner Open at 4 1838 Napoleon Av. Raw Oyster Bar 895-4877 PascalsManale.com WhereYat.com | October 2020

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Gattuso’s serves delectable soft-shell crab and salmon salad. They offer a wide selection of appetizers that can sate your appetite, before you dig into delectable entrees. Enjoy a meal and a cocktail in their large and inviting courtyard. Fans of Gattuso’s enjoy the “Soup & Po-Boy Combo,” a gumbo or soup du jour paired with a half po-boy and a side of potato salad. 435 Huey P. Long Ave., Gretna, 504-386-1114, gattusos.net

Legacy Kitchen’s Steak + Chop enhances the foodscape of the Westbank with refined cuisine in a casual setting. Check out their daily Happy Hour or chalkboard specials, including $5 martinis on Thursdays, halfpriced wine, and $1 charbroiled oysters.

Their decadent filet mignon will have you feeling like royalty, and all their steaks are seasoned with “butter and parsley love.” 91 Westbank Expy., Gretna, 504-513-2606, LegacyKitchen.com

Mosca’s serves some of the city’s best Italian food, and they’ve been doing so for more than 60 years. Customers can still get their Shrimp Mosca, Oysters Mosca, or any other of their favorite dishes, such as the Italian crab salad. Mosca’s is good for groups, as dishes are served familystyle. Make sure to hold off for the grand dessert finale: pineapple fluff! 4137 US90 West, Westwego, 504-436-8950, moscasrestaurant.com

Tavolino Pizza & Lounge, located in Algiers Point right near the ferry, is a terrific pizzeria known for its traditional Italian fare, as well as its wine selection.

They offer apps and salads, or try one of their signature pizzas, such as the meatheavy Carne or the Fantasy Island, with prosciutto, pineapple, and jalapenos.

Enjoy it on the patio with a drink. 141 Delaronde St., Algiers, 504-913-8921, facebook.com/TavolinoLounge

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$20 & UNDER: Flower Power

By Kim Ranjbar

A relative plain-Jane—flavor-wise—of the vegetable world, cauliflower has risen to great heights over the past several years, even surpassing that green of all revered greens, kale. According to Nielsen, sales of cauliflower have leapt 40 percent over the past four years due to an increasing interest in low-carbohydrate and gluten-free dieting. Forget the fact that cauliflower is chock full of vitamins (vitamins C, K, and B6) and high in fiber and antioxidants; it’s an incredibly versatile vegetable.

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Reginelli’s

For those low-carb-lovers, riced cauliflower can replace everything from, well, rice to mashed potatoes and grits. And vegans and vegetarians often replace main-course meats with cauliflower “ground beef� for tacos, pastas, and curries; or how about a juicy, pan-seared cauliflower piccata? The best part is that, due to its mild, slightly nutty flavor, cauliflower can take on just about any seasoning or sauce you choose to slather on it, from something as simple as butter to bold flavors such as garam masala or sriracha and sweet chili sauce.

Chefs have always taken advantage of cauliflower’s unique versatility, but over the past few years, they’ve been stepping up their game. Take, for instance, the magic that is being made at Killer Po-Boys, the unique eatery that got its start offering innovative takes on our favorite local sandwich in the back of the French Quarter’s Erin Rose bar on Conti Street. Post pandemic restrictions, they will return to the Irish pub to keep slinging their one-of-a-kind fare, but their bigger location, which owners and chefs Cam Boudreaux and April Bellow opened Killer Po-Boys back in 2015 a couple blocks away on CREDIT: KYLIE MCDONALD Dauphine Street, is operating. Among other new “classics� like their rum and ginger glazed pork belly with lime cabbage slaw and seared Gulf shrimp with pickled carrots and sriracha aioli, Killer Po-Boys offers a gorgeous roasted cauliflower po-boy, with creamy avocado, tangy romesco sauce, and dried kale, which can be served over spinach or slathered onto Dong Phuong French bread or toasted whole grain.

Though the Louisiana Children’s Museum in City Park is temporarily closed, kids (and kids at heart) can still enjoy eating the cuisine offered at Acorn NOLA, a Dickie Brennan & Co. cafĂŠ located adjacent to the museum. Acorn is currently open for pickup or delivery through UberEats, so diners Acorn NOLA large and small can enjoy items such as a fried chicken sandwich with Crystal honey hot sauce on a Hawaiian roll, tuna melt with citrus aioli, or a thin-patty burger with house-made potato chips. One of the most popular dishes, up there with their version of elote, or Mexican street corn, is the BBQ cauliflower “wingsâ€? with ranch dressing for dipping. At only $3.50 per dish, all we can say is move over, chicken!

Cruise down Veterans Memorial Boulevard in Metairie and pull into futuristic fast-food stop Atomic Burger. This Jetsons-like modern burger spot gives drive-thru joints a new name, with house-ground beef burgers, hand-cut fries, and liquid-nitrogen shakes.

Among the more unusual offerings, including the green chile burger with roasted poblano peppers and steamed edamame (for those who eschew fries), Atomic Burger is also offering their very own cauliflower bun. Made in-house with cauliflower, cheddar cheese, egg, and kosher salt, this extra special bun Atomic Burger will add $2 to your tab, but with only five grams of carbs, it’s an option well worth the price, and maybe you won’t feel so bad indulging in that Nutella marshmallow shake.

Finally, one of the most missed foods for gluten-free diets would definitely have to be pizza. While there are national chains out there with options, local pizza (and more) spot Reginelli’s just recently got into the cauliflower-crust game. Not only is it glutenfree and vegan, it also touts the use of nonGMO ingredients. Opting for the cauliflowerpowered crust will incur a $6 up-charge to your pie, making a specialty such as a small “Fresconon� with garlic herb sauce, mozzarella, spinach, marinated artichokes, and feta $17.95, but the crust is 12 inches Reginelli’s as opposed to the usual 10. If that’s a bit too pricey, you can simply skip the pizza altogether and go all in with their roasted Parmesan-crusted head of cauliflower that’s been slathered in garlic butter and is served with an irresistible goat-cheese spread.

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WhereYat.com | October 2020

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BUYING THE FARM: Shopping Local Farmstands and Farmers Markets

By Steve Melendez

Onetime Louisiana Governor Earl Long famously stopped at supermarkets on his travels to load up on fruits and vegetables when they were in season or available at a good price. If you want to emulate his example, you could do worse than stopping at some of the unique farmstands and markets around the New Orleans area.

While most emphasize local produce, don’t be too dismayed if you see fruit with a sticker from California or even overseas, since many also offer some items from farther away at prices at least as good as the local supermarkets. But with the fall being the peak time for local citrus, you should be able to find satsumas, Meyer lemons, and other fruit grown quite near to the city.

Here are a few farmsteads and markets worth exploring.

DeWitt’s Fruit and Vegetable Shed Just across the parish line into Old Jefferson is DeWitt’s Fruit and Vegetable Stand, a business that has been in place for so long that it was called a “nostalgic reminder of plain old free enterprise” in a bank commercial that aired nearly 40 years ago. Take a short walk or drive from the Oak Street area for Creole tomatoes, when they’re in season, and local citrus including Plaquemines Parish satsumas in the fall, as well as items such as local honey, boiled peanuts, pepper jelly, and other preserves. 725 River Rd., Old Jefferson Johnny’s Produce Head east from New Orleans, past where St. Claude Avenue turns into St. Bernard Highway, to visit this farmstand, owned by an ItalianAmerican family who’s been growing and selling produce in the area for generations. Best known for its “Celebrity” Creole tomatoes, a variety indigenous to the immediate area, the farmstand also carries other vegetables, such as eggplant and bell peppers, as well as staples including onions and garlic. Local jams and caponata, the eggplant-based spread, are also on offer. East St. Bernard Highway between Rosetta Drive and Marietta Street, Chalmette

DeWitt’s Fruit & Vegetable Shed

Ben Becnel’s The Farm and Ben & Ben Becnel Stop at either of this family-owned farmstead’s scenic locations on the road to Plaquemines Parish for locally grown produce, from strawberries in the spring to okra, watermelon, and Creole tomatoes in the summer to citrus and pumpkins in the fall.

Also enjoy Louisiana-made pickles, preserves, and honey, and make sure to check the farmstead’s lively Facebook page to see what’s in stock and on sale. If you’d like to try your hand at growing your own produce, you can also purchase avocado, fig, and other fruit-bearing trees from the farmers market. The famed Hong Kong Market in Terrytown, with its own diverse selection of produce, is also quite near to the location at 7234 Highway 23. Belle Chasse, facebook.com/pages/category/Farmers-Market/ Ben-Becnels-The-Farm and facebook.com/Ben-Ben-Becnel-Inc

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Crescent City Farmers Market If you’re looking for a healthy but movable feast, stop at one of the Crescent City Farmers Market’s weekly locations around the city to check out a wide variety of local fruit, vegetables, meat, seafood, flowers, and breads from a variety of individual vendors. You can also order a produce box for pickup or even home food delivery through market affiliate Top Box Foods. Check their website for the latest on times, locations, and vendor offerings, as well as any adjustments in procedure around the coronavirus pandemic. Multiple Locations, crescentcityfarmersmarket.org

Ben Becnel’s

Cajun Fresh Market Cajun Fresh Market got its start as a single truck selling strawberries, and it’s expanded into its present location, where it’s open seven days a week along the eastbound side of Highway 90, heading towards New Orleans.

The market offers local in-season produce, along with other regional delicacies, such as boudin, hot tamales, and crawfish pies. Plans are in the works to expand the selection of po-boys and other sandwiches, and housemade specials like jambalaya are also frequently available. 938 US-90, Raceland, cajunfreshmarket.com

Vietnamese Farmers Market In the early morning every Saturday, beginning around 6 a.m., predominantly Vietnamese produce vendors gather in this parking lot outside Ly’s Supermarket in New Orleans East with their wares. While many of the buyers and sellers are Vietnamese, you don’t need to speak the language in order to buy the fresh seasonal produce, seafood, and prepared foods that are available that week. Get there early and expect to primarily pay cash. Consider sticking your head in Ly’s for additional Vietnamese food offerings or stopping at the nearby James Beard Award-winning Dong Phuong restaurant and bakery for baked goods or other fresh Vietnamese food, including pho. 14401 Alcee Fortier Dr.

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A WORLD OF GOODS: The International Markets of New Orleans

By Kimmie Tubre

The world has never been more exposed to different cultures than it is today. The internet, especially social media, allows us to visualize going on safaris in Africa, while also walking the cobblestone streets of Europe. We have full access to how people live and celebrate around the world. In fact, social media has completely changed how we see other places. With all of this exposure, international interests and travel have risen in the last decade. As a result, the interest in foods from various countries may be one of the most popular things of this generation.

International in New Orleans From ramen to chicken tikka masala, curious patrons are not only trying new foods in restaurants, but also cooking them in their homes. In a city where most of the traditional dishes are influenced by Creoles and Cajuns, it can be rather difficult to find the ingredients needed for a particular foreign recipe. While the majority of grocery stores in the city have international aisles, they tend to stick to the cultures that are most relevant to the city’s demographic. What if you’re from Eastern Europe, India, or the Mediterranean? Where can you go to get specialty spices, a variety of fish oils, or vegetables not typical to the region?

New Orleans is actually more diverse than most give it credit for. Our history is rooted in African, French, and Spanish cultures, but it is also influenced by the Irish, Italian, and Native Americans who contribute to our one-of-a-kind culture. With that said, we also have heavy influences from our large populations of Hondurans and Palestinians, and we certainly cannot forget the Vietnamese. When we think about culture and food in the city, we should remember that there are also places and shops that represent these cultures.

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International Markets of the Metro Area One of the most familiar places to find a diverse variety of international items is the International Market in Metairie. Set up like a large international warehouse, this market is mostly known for its variation of Indian and Middle Eastern groceries and goods. But you can also find a wide array of items from other regions of the world, from the Mediterranean to West Africa, Jamaica, Europe, and Asia. The International Market is a place where the smell of exotic spices hits your nose as soon as you enter the door. But food isn’t their only foreign asset. You can also find gifts and household goods.

The International Market is a popular destination for people seeking to cook, shop, and find ingredients from many different cultures. While the diversity here seems to be unmatched, there are also other markets that are a bit more specific.

Let’s start with the Middle East. If your diet calls for halal-friendly dishes, then you may want to give Kased’s International Halal Market a visit. Less than 10 miles away from the International Market, this family-run business is a Middle Eastern/international grocery store with a little bit of everything.

Also providing an eclectic selection is the Big Easy Fresh Market on the corner of S. Broad and Canal Streets. This Mid-City neighborhood grocery store is known for its abundance of fresh produce. You can also find an array of merchandise, from Middle Eastern to Central American, along with delicious hot meals.

Another favored option is right across the Mississippi River at the Crescent Market.

Located in Gretna, this Westbank gem has some of the freshest and most authentic Mediterranean meats, spices, and groceries.

While on the Westbank, drive over to Terrytown, where you will find another popular place representing the dishes of the East. You’ll be welcomed to all things Asian when you enter the Hong Kong Market. This massive market is famous for its Southeast Asian and Chinese goods, groceries, and treats, but you can also find what you need for those Japanese, Korean, and Indian dishes that you’ve always wanted to try. An exceptional market that is great for finding authentic Asian goods, it is a total experience from the moment you walk in. While the halal market focuses on meats, Hong Kong Market is well known for its superior seafood selection.

As you continue on the Westbank, you should also visit the Kien Giang Market in Gretna, which is recognized for its fresh meats and produce. This market is also filled with authentic ingredients from around Asia. Before leaving the Westbank, you must make a stop at the Dong Khanh Market in Harvey.

From Thai to Chinese to Vietnamese, some of the best-priced Asian goods in the city fill this grocery store. Even the produce here is rare, fresh, and affordable.

Although there are a wide variety of Asian options in the Metro Area, there is one country that is so popular here that there’s an entire area dedicated to its food and culture. Welcome to Village de L’Est. Home to a Vietnamese community called “Little Vietnam,” it is possibly where the earliest migrants to the area arrived. Also known as Versailles (named after an apartment complex), this area is filled with several Vietnamese restaurants and grocery stores. There’s also a weekly Vietnamese farmers market.

The next stop on this international market journey is dedicated to another group that populates the Big Easy: the culturally rich Central Americans. New Orleans, from Mid-City to Kenner, has a very large community of Hondurans, and the Ideal Market is a perfect place to find some of the best authentic Honduran and Central American foods and goods. This chain grocer has locations in Mid-City and Metairie and is probably the most popular destination for Latinx food in the city.

Ideal offers a wide selection of spices, desserts, fresh fruits, and vegetables, as well as deliciously authentic hot plates.

Last on our international food itinerary, we will voyage north to Europe. Places like Stein’s Deli represent the Jewish-Italians, and Eastern European Foods is an excellent market for finding all things Eastern European, but surprisingly, there aren’t many markets in this French city that represent the French culture. There is the famous French Market, but there really isn’t anything French about it. In fact, one of the best things about the French Market is its diverse vendors from all over the globe. Offering African outfits to Eastern jewels, the French Market may not be very French, but it is definitely an international market.

We have come to the end of our international market voyage, but be sure to visit and support these amazing places. Try their spices, produce, ingredients, and other merchandise. Get to know the people and their stories. Remember that all of these various countries contribute to the culture of this amazing city. So, while trying to make that international dish, visit one of these markets and be sure to say that Where Y’at Magazine sent you.

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KEEPING TRADITION ALIVE: Supporting Black-Owned Restaurants in NOLA

Indisputably, New Orleans has a long-established international reputation for culinary arts, with our signature Creole and Southern flavors owing themselves to the strong influence of African culture and cuisine. The indispensable contribution of the black community to our food culture still holds strong today. With this in mind, we would like to take a moment to celebrate black-owned restaurants in New Orleans that are keeping our traditions and reputation for some of the best food on the planet alive.

By Michelle A. Nicholson If your day starts with breakfast (or brunch), a local favorite is Twisted Waffles (1420 Annunciation St.). Their plates are overflowing with sweet and savory classics, including lots of vegetarian, vegan, and gluten-free options, such as their Twisted Spinach and Berries Salad (twist it up with a protein, if you like), a portobello mushroom or veggie burger, and caprese waffle sandwich. Order classic New Orleans and Southern dishes, such as Creole grits (with shrimp), chicken and waffles, or biscuits and gravy, or dive into their extensive offering of waffle-based plates, including waffle bowls, waffled French toast, and specialty waffles.

The maple cream bacon waffle is the stuff of dreams. You can call ahead or order online for pick-up, between 7:30 a.m. and 3 p.m., Friday through Sunday. Twisted Waffles can also host your special event.

Backatown (301 Basin St.) is a coffee parlor offering pastries, soups and sandwiches, and—you guessed it—specialty coffee and tea beverages, such as Vietnamese coffee (with

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Fall Restaurant Guide | Where Y'at Magazine

Beaucoup Eats condensed milk) and golden lattes. Backatown is spacious and airy, with seating arranged for social distancing, as well as outdoors, making it the perfect spot to spend the morning reading and working, solo, or to gather with a small group of friends or for business. Folks rave about their sweet potato pie, quiches (crawfish or spinach), paninis, and BBQ crawfish and grits. They also cater to vegetarians and vegans, with items like an egg, avocado, and tomato English muffin; blueberry chia pudding; and an entire shelf of pastries, including a heavenly rose pistachio donut.

A number of black-owned restaurants around town aim to please everyone by offering menus rich with flavor and options for even the most restricted diets. Beaucoup Eats (2323 Canal St.) has a menu full of classic Creole and American (and health-conscious) items, including an entire section of vegan/vegetarian meals. Side items range from fries and crawfish mac-n-cheese to brown rice, cauliflower rice, and dirty rice.

Backatown Want a burger? You can get it deep-

Beaucoup Eats fried or made with turkey. Get a jambalaya pasta salad in alfredo, or a salmontopped garden salad. Their crawfish bread is wildly popular, and their chicken wings are a sight to behold, perfectly battered and golden. Honestly, it’s worth driving out of your way for their coconut rice bowls. You can order by phone or online for takeout, drive-through, or delivery through Uber Eats or Waitr. They also cater and offer meal-prepping services.

Vegans and vegetarians have other delicious options for supporting blackowned restaurants in the city. Vegan Wit’ a Twist (514 S. Rampart St.) is available for pick-up or delivery through Waitr. As their name suggests, this restaurant has become famous for serving up burgers, tacos, and burritos composed of completely vegan ingredients. If you’ve been wanting to try jackfruit, we recommend starting here. There are rice bowls available for a gluten-free meal as well. Their vegan fried and chargrilled “oysters,” BBQ cauliflower box, and “hot sausage” topped with spinach, tomato, and spicy mayo will please even the most devout meat-eater.

Looking for something a little more upscale? Soule’ Café (2549 Banks St.) has a “Vegan & Friends” menu, as well as tantalizing daily specials. Your Monday serving of red or white beans may come with sausage or a meat substitute, or simply with cornbread and salad. Your tacos might be stuffed with chicken or shrimp, or they could be stuffed with tofu or cauliflower. Even their Kids’ menu offers a variety of vegan treats. The vegan plate allows you to pick out three different vegan sides as a meal, such as collard greens, brown rice, and vegan nuggets or Brussels sprouts, sweet potato fries, and mac and cheese. Soule’ Café also continues to offer an occasional Drag Brunch. Follow them on Facebook to find out when. Order online for takeout or delivery through Uber Eats.

At the opposite end of upscale, we have Stop Jockin Sno-Ball Stand (3600 St. Bernard Ave.). Their ice is the softest, smoothest, snowiest you’ll ever get. Stop Jockin also serves traditional snack-shack items—think hot dogs, hamburgers, and po-boys. The seafood-stuffed nachos and fries will have you waiting in line again soon. Expect a line at Stop Jockin, but don’t expect to wait long. However, be forewarned: They will run out of crawfish for nachos and fries if you arrive too late in the day. No worries, though, because the shrimp is fresh and crispy and equally delicious.

Stop Jockin Sno-Ball Stand Tantalized? Good. These are just a few favorites among the vast number of black-owned restaurants in New Orleans that make our city one of the most exciting and diverse destinations in the world for foodies. Be sure to join the Facebook group “Where Black NOLA Eats” to discover even more black-owned restaurants in the area to enjoy and support.

WhereYat.com | October 2020

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SKINCARE TIPS UNMASKED: How to Care for Your Skin Beneath the Mask

By Celeste Turner

Is your face breaking out from wearing a mask?

Although mask mandates have become the “new normal” and serve as our best defense against COVID-19, strapping on a cloth or face covering isn’t always ideal for our skin. Actually, wearing a mask can irritate and inflame the skin on your face, causing an unexpected side effect: “maskne,” or mask-induced acne. So, if you’re concerned about your face mask causing acne, here are several simple tips to keep your skin under control.

leave your Pack your bags. and baggage behind.

Get away from the hustle, bustle and hassles, and find yourself in Natchez. Breakfast on the balcony. Sunset on the bluff. Dinner downtown. We’re keeping everything clean and wearing our masks.

Relax and enjoy your moment.

Get The Latest Safe Travel Information At Visitnatchez.org/Responsibly.

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#VisITMSResponsibly

According to Barbara S. Bopp, MD, a board-certified dermatologist for the past 29 years at Bopp Dermatology & Facial Plastic Surgery in Metairie, “Individuals wearing masks that have acne-prone skin or sensitive skin are seeing changes in their skin, such as acne and rashes.” She recommends washing with a pH-balanced cleanser, such as Cetaphil foaming face wash, and Glyderm gentle face cleanser. “They both should be used with tepid water, not hot water, to reduce the dehydrating effect of the water,” says Dr. Bopp.

After washing your face, she points out that you should pat the skin, so that it is not thoroughly dried, then follow up with a moisturizer. “My favorite moisturizer for oily or comedogenic skin is La Roche-Posay’s Toleriane Sensitive Fluide,” says Dr. Bopp. “For more mature individuals with drier skin, I prefer La Roche’s Toleriane Double-Repair Moisturizer. Both contain probiotic thermal water, which calms inflammation of the skin.”

Nicole Langlois, a medical esthetician and owner of Elite Esthetics Skin Care and Spa in Metairie, has also noticed an uptick in clients who are struggling with maskne and skin problems while wearing a mask. “Regardless of your skin type, from oily to dry, we all have to change our daily routine,” says Langlois. “Cleansing two times per day, morning and night, is the best solution.”

To prevent breakouts, Langlois recommends using cleansers with salicylic acid for oily, acne-prone skin, in order to remove excess oils and dead skin cells. “Neutrogena‘s acne face wash is one of my favorites,” adds Langlois. “It can be purchased over the counter.” If you have dry, sensitive skin with a glimpse of mask-induced acne, Langlois advises using EltaMD foaming cleanser or CeraVe. Langlois specifies that the EltaMD cleanser can be purchased at a local dermatologist’s office, whereas CeraVe can be found over the counter.

During the pandemic, Megan Bunnell, an esthetician at EarthSavers Spa and Store in Metairie, also shared her tips for skincare while wearing masks. “My best advice during this time is to keep your skincare as simple as possible,” says Bunnell.

“Try to stick to three steps: cleanse, moisturize, sunscreen. And I would definitely recommend skipping makeup and allowing your skin to breathe as much as possible under your mask.” Her suggestions for cleansers are Dermaware ($42.95) and the Clear Skin Willow Bark Booster Serum from Eminence Organic Skincare ($56.95).

What if you have seborrheic dermatitis or psoriasis? Both of these skin conditions can affect the face while wearing a mask. Dr. Bopp indicates that these skin conditions may be more predisposed to developing a secondary skin infection. After the basic cleansing regimen, Dr. Bopp recommends that you “should also continue to treat [your] skin condition with topical treatments, such as low-potency topical steroids, to decrease the inflammation in the skin.”

For those mask-wearers struggling with rosacea, Bunnell proposes a vitaminenriched serum, called Vital K Microgel from Dermaware ($74.95). This product contains vitamins K and E, which help to reduce inflammation and soothe the skin.

Most importantly, don’t forget your sunscreen. Bunnell favors sunscreens that contain zinc oxide and titanium dioxide. For example, Skin Ceuticals Physical UV Defense Sunscreen ($34.95) and EarthSavers’ Oil Free Mineral Sunscreen ($40.95) are two great options for UV-ray skin protection with a minimum of SPF 30.

Alternatively, “EltaMD UV Clear SPF 46 is perfect for mask-wearers because it is lightweight, non-comedogenic, and contains niacinamide, which decreases redness and inflammation of the skin,” says Dr. Bopp.

As we all know, wearing a mask when you go out is a must. But remember good habits can also affect the appearance of your skin, particularly what you eat and drink.

Shifting your focus to a healthy diet and proper hydration can be one of the best skin barriers when your face is covered by a sweaty mask.

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31

PURPLE AND GOLD AFTERMATH:

How Does LSU Follow up the Greatest Season in College Football History?

By Andrew Alexander

The dream season finally happened. After nearly a decade, LSU beat Alabama, returned to the national title game, and reclaimed its spot atop the college football landscape.

Led by a coach who compiled a 3-21 Southeastern Conference record at Ole Miss and a transfer quarterback who could not win the starting job at Ohio State, the Tigers defied the odds en route to a magically perfect 2019 season.

However, to paraphrase former Celtics head coach—and now disgraced—Rick Pitino, “Joe Burrow’s not walking through that door. Joe Brady’s not walking through that door, and Dave Aranda is not walking through that door.”

The 2020 Tigers underwent a drastic makeover in the offseason, losing an SEC record 14 players to the NFL draft, including Heisman Trophy-winning quarterback Joe Burrow, wunderkind passing game coordinator Joe Brady to the NFL’s Carolina Panthers, and defensive coordinator Dave Aranda to Baylor.

The latest incarnation of Coach Ed Orgeron’s squad will look different, but no less formidable.

Offense: The Heir Apparent After watching the greatest quarterback in LSU history rewrite the record books last season, the biggest elephant in Tiger Stadium (besides the visiting Crimson Tide) is: How good is his successor?

Myles Brennan has never started a game for the Tigers in his previous three seasons on campus. The redshirt junior has completed 42 of 70 passes for 600 yards and two touchdowns in mostly mop-up duty while under center in Baton Rouge but now is deemed the heir apparent to Burrow. The former highly rated prep prospect has waited his turn to lead LSU, but that does not make him the next Matt Flynn, the former fifth-year senior who led LSU to the 2007 national championship after his predecessor, JaMarcus Russell, was selected as the top pick in the NFL Draft.

Brennan will have to prove himself, without the luxury of any non-conference tune-up games and minus LSU’s top two receivers from last season. Instead, Brennan will rely upon Terrace Marshall (46 receptions, 671 yards, and 13 touchdowns in 2019), Racey McMath, and unproven youngsters Trey Palmer and Kayshon Boutte. Throw in freshman tight end Arik Gilbert, the crown jewel of the 2020 recruiting class, and Brennan has the makings of a pretty decent receiving corps. It does not hurt that the Tigers are loaded at running back, with the three-headed monster of Chris Curry, Tyrion Davis-Price, and John Emery Jr. The real question is: Who will protect Brennan? LSU lost a slew of offensive linemen

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from last season, but if the new guardians can keep their untested quarterback upright, the Tigers may just be able to find a winning formula to navigate the SEC-only schedule this year.

Defense: New Look, Same Dominance The Tigers’ 2020 restoration continues on the defensive side of the ball with the return of former LSU defensive coordinator Bo Pelini back to his old stomping grounds. Pelini guided LSU’s defense from 2005 until 2007 and has returned to Baton Rouge with his trademark fiery intensity. Despite losing plenty of valuable defensive playmakers to the draft, as well as a few more over the offseason for various reasons, this unit has cause for plenty of optimism this season.

Derek Stingley Jr. is the best defensive back in the country, helping anchor a national championship secondary with six interceptions as a freshman. He is joined by senior safety JaCoby Stevens, LSU’s top returning tackler, to help usher in the latest version of DBU. In the front seven, expect to see tackles Siaki “Apu” Ika and Glen Logan making waves on the defensive line, while All-American graduate transfer linebacker Jabril Cox joins Damone Clark and Micah Baskerville to fill the void left in the center of LSU’s defense.

This unit may be unfamiliar and unproven now, but by season’s end, they will be a force to be reckoned with in the SEC. Prediction With plenty of question marks surrounding this year’s LSU squad, opponents will rightfully think that the Tigers have been defanged after losing many key ingredients to last year’s perfectly seasoned team. In this wild, wacky year, however, those foes would be unwise to underestimate any team lead by Orgeron. The man whose accent was previously mocked by the college football world has suddenly become a titan in his sport.

LSU may not obliterate every opponent in 2020, but the Tigers can still strike fear into the hearts of SEC adversaries.

LSU: 9-2, New Year’s Six Bowl

THREEPEAT? Tulane Strives for Third Straight Bowl Victory

By Andrew Alexander

Despite his team’s finishing 1-5 to end the regular season last year, coach Willie Fritz was able to guide Tulane to a second straight bowl victory for the first time in school history. Can Tulane make it three in a row?

It’s a weird notion to comprehend, but in four years, Fritz has brought stability to a once-reeling college football program. The next step is battling for American Athletic Conference supremacy, but the Green Wave will need to look more reminiscent of the 2018 squad than did last year’s team, which suffered an epic collapse after such a promising start.

With a keen mix of veterans, graduate transfers, and a little bit of Fritzian magic, Tulane has the makings of an interesting squad heading into the season. This regime has laid the foundation for a successful program, and as it nears a half decade, the chance for a history-making season awaits.

Offense: New Blood When Tulane’s offense was clicking last season, it was hard to stop. The Green Wave averaged at least seven yards per play in six games in 2019, and they were undefeated in those games. However, they were also 0-6 when they failed to hit that mark. The Green Wave lost several key members of its 2019 offense, including starting quarterback Justin McMillan and last year’s top two receivers.

Former Southern Miss transfer Keon Howard seems poised to take the reins of Tulane’s offense in offensive coordinator Will Hall’s second season. As a backup last year, he appeared in four games, connecting on 13 of 18 passes for 208 yards and two touchdowns.

Howard will be joined in the backfield by junior running back Amare Jones, who amassed 738 rushing and receiving yards last season and six total touchdowns.

Sophomore Tyjae Spears will be a solid contributor as well, with several other backs waiting in the wings.

Receivers Jaetavian Toles, Jha’Quan Jackson, and Oklahoma graduate transfer Mykel Jones should be some of Howard’s top targets, and the majority of the offensive line returns to protect Howard in his first season under center.

Defense: Something to Prove Tulane’s defense underperformed last season, most notably with the play of star outside linebacker Patrick Johnson, who battled injuries last season and produced six and a half less sacks than the 2018 season.

However, the Green Wave returns lots of defensive-line talent alongside Johnson, including Cameron Sample, De’Andre Williams, and Jeffery Johnson, as well as some important reserves. Elsewhere in the front seven, Oklahoma State graduate transfer Kevin Henry leads a hungry linebacking corps that includes freshman Jesus Machado, Marvin Moody, and Nick Anderson.

In the secondary, safety Larry Brooks has the potential for a big year after snagging four interceptions, while starting only one game, last season. Fellow safety Chase Kuerschen will join Brooks in wreaking havoc on opposing offenses this season after leading the team in tackles last year. New Orleans native Kyle Meyers returns to the Big Easy as a graduate transfer cornerback after spending four years at Florida State. He joins senior Jaylon Monroe to help solidify Tulane’s defensive backend.

The Green Wave defense is veteran, feisty, and has something to prove this season.

Prediction Three straight bowls for the first time in school history is on the line for Fritz’s squad this season. Six wins in 11 games will not be easy (back-to-back October dates against Southern Methodist and Central Florida could be tricky), but if Howard can deliver and Tulane avoids a second-half-season implosion like last year, the Green Wave has a chance to make history.

Tulane: 6-5, Frisco Bowl bid.

WhereYat.com | October 2020

33

COVID CHIC:

The New Fall Fashion in Pandemic New Orleans

By Sabrina Stone

It’s been an unusual year for fashion. Many of you likely spent the spring and summer of 2020 in sweatpants, if any pants at all. Medical masks did a lot of framing the windows to the soul and, in the brave new world of video conferencing, human interaction became a primarily waist-up situation.

Sabrina Stone in a Dark Garden Corsetry Valentine Signature Collection corset & Madame X skirt, Faerie Things flower crown, Nola Foot Candy heels, and a Merry Antoinettes Mardi Gras fan throw.

By now, some of us may be itching to dress up again, some of us desire the power of a pressed suit, and some of us have been proudly sporting uniforms this whole time, meriting deep gratitude from those of us who may have outgrown our entire wardrobes. However you’ve experienced 2020 so far, and it is clear that the face of fashion, like the face of our nation, is fated to shift and change.

Here’s the direction I’d like to see it go in.

Amanda Mester in Bag Season Records

Steven Melendez in She Comes in Peace

Shop local!

Whatever you wear, try to buy it from a place that could really benefit from the positive impact of your business. Everyone is struggling these days, everyone is operating at half-mast, but small businesses are especially burdened. They still pay rent, still try to support their employees, and probably do so with a surprisingly small cushion. If you’ve been eyeing a dress or shoes or monocle, now is the time to treat yourself. Show your style while helping a small shop keep the lights on.

Go Big! New Orleans is the city of celebration.

Costumery is in our blood. If you’re going to get dressed up, why not get totally, over-thetop whimsical about it? I took the long jog up Magazine Street to Dark Garden Corsetry, where the impeccably put-together Annabelle Zakaluk fitted, cinched, hooked, and tied me into the most luxuriously silky custom piece of clothing I’ve ever worn. We paired it with their coppery mermaid skirt, a handmade succulent crown from Miette, and golden winged heels from Nola Foot Candy.

We did a photoshoot and made a day of it and, while I may not have been walking anywhere in those heels, it was a joy to feel like a queen for a few hours.

Be Colorful!

Mardi Gras will be back, Jazz Fest will be back, French Quarter Fest will be back, and when they are, let’s greet them with all the colors of our glorious, quirky rainbow. There are seasons when this city is a swirl of fabrics and a sea of humans, but not of late.

So, Hawaiian shirts, flowy scarves, flower crowns— however you do it, be brave and be bright.

Support Bands!

We’ve all had the eerie experience of living in a New Orleans on pause—a quiet, empty city. What’s gotten many of us through is the knowledge that life will and must be back—but what if it isn’t? What would New Orleans look like without the music? It’s a terrifying prospect and an important question to ask.

Many musicians have been through several seasons now without touring, gigging, or recording: all the things that keep them sane and pay the bills. They’re hurting. So, show your support. Buy their merch.

Wear it proudly. Be a part of making sure our city is filled with joyful sounds again.

Support Artists!

You might be surprised to see who has custom merchandise for sale: graffiti artists, tattoo artists, your favorite writer or arts-based charity. If there is someone you admire or a cause you would like to donate to, look them up. There’s a good chance you might get a tote or a t-shirt out of the transaction.

I know we’re in odd times. I know none of us are going to the opera anytime soon. I know that we’ve all adapted to the cozy embrace of athleisure wear. So, let’s buck the usual trends. Let’s do something that feels good. Let’s dress for ourselves. Let’s put money back into our community. Let’s support artists and help keep small businesses afloat. And let’s make that fashion.

Tory Burguieres in Ally Burguieres

Alfred Banks in Tank and The Bangas & Tarriona 'Tank' Ball in Alfred Banks

Kaki Johnson & Brittany Schall in La Adorna

Henna Silvennoinen in Preservation Hall Band

Josh Wingerter

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TALES FROM THE QUARTER

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Lives Intertwined

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hy ya wanna hurt my heart so?”

We heard this from the other end of the phone when we asked an employee if the business where she worked was open on a particular holiday. Her answer was limp with defeat: “Yes.” Despite feeling a degree of empathy, Husband and I thought it was just about the funniest business phone reply ever.

And now I say it and feel it with every bit of my being. Damn it, my world of late (and perhaps yours, too) is just slipping away.

Why, why do they leave us? Neighbors, best friends, that small business around the corner… Why do they have to go and break my heart? This is not my first rodeo, nor will it be the last, when someone moves away and unwittingly disrupts my comfort zone, my world. You know how it is, we all do—people and things move on, leave us. Sometimes it is for the greater good.

Often it is out of necessity, and too often it happens without control, without a voice in the matter—sometimes they die.

What got me to thinking about this, I mean really feeling all this, was a departure for the greater good. Hannah, our neighbor next door—and by next door, I mean on the other side of our walls—got accepted into veterinarian school in Boston. And this is exactly what a smart and extremely talented vet tech/animal advocate aims for.

She will become a vet and will undoubtedly make a profound difference in the lives and welfare of creatures that desperately need someone like her. The world will be a better place for critters. But damn, double damn, we will miss her. She became our friend, and Lord knows our cats and dog are gonna miss having their own vet tech under the same roof. She came to their rescue numerous times.

Now, this cat goddess (she really loves cats) came with a roommate, a friend since college days: Sabre. Her housemate also became someone we fondly call a friend. He is that perfect person to inhabit the other side of an uninsulated, non-sound-proofed wall (if you have ever lived in a New Orleans shotgun double—same as a duplex—you know that your neighbor and you “share” a house with privacy provided by that wall).

I cannot hear a sound from him—it’s like he is on mute. And he is kind enough to never bitch about Husband and me. We are constantly turned to high volume. So, you see where this is going—he, too, is moving.

Good neighbors are one of life’s blessings. If you are smart, you recognize them for the treasure that they are, and you spend lots of time sucking up to them (I meant to say being kind and thoughtful). Of course, great neighbors tend to out-do your good gestures, and when they move, you reproach yourself with the “what ifs?” What if we had been quieter, not talked their ears off, shared more homemade food, maybe paid their rent for them (okay, that’s a bit

much)? But sometimes, you just can’t take it personally—you have to let them go.

Moving away. That is what our dear friend Judy decided to do. On the heels of Hannah and Sabre abandoning us, I received the lousy news that Judy is following her family to some godforsaken place in the northeast. Sure, it’s beautiful, good rent, walking distance to all she needs, and her family is there. Did I mention great weather? (She loves snow.) Family is the bonus for her with this move. I told her that she was “our family,” and we could take care of her if she needed someone one day. Her reply? “You’re too old.” Well, excuse me!

Her move has left a deep hole in the hearts of all who came to know and love her. We are selfish—we need her here in our lives.

Oh well, I guess one day I will learn to use Zoom and pretend that she is actually here with me drinking wine.

The Virus (feeling trapped within a Stephen King novel?) has caused a shuttering of our world. Small shops, big stores, art and entertainment venues, schools, and the list goes on and on, are in a state of suspension—even those open are limping along with the fear that they may soon lack the legs to carry on. Each permanent closure inflicts irreparable damage on its community. For a business or venue to throw in the towel (heavy with sweat and tears), they must deal with the added pain of facing employees and customers who are dependent upon them.

So, goodbyes are now a daily thing. Bye Albert and the neighborhood bar/eatery you grew (Pirogues); bye Bellegarde Bakery, created with so much heart by Graison Gill (still optimistic that he will reopen); K-Paul’s—if they could fall to this pandemic, what business is safe? We are forced to bid adieu to our country’s talent, treasures, and historical brick-and-mortars daily.

The lives lost. The hearts broken.

Families fractured. This surreal world we are in now has made death too real. And among the Virus victims are those who lost their personal battles to cancer and other maladies. These dear souls had to go that final distance without the touch or embrace of loved ones—channeling a lifetime of memories through the handhold of a kind stranger, their doctor or nurse. My dear Carolyn was among those human treasures who will leave a world of people to never quite be the same without her. Every day, someone with her immense kindness, her ability to make this place better and to contribute wit, intelligence, and above all, friendship, leaves us.

Goodbyes are inevitable. But they are too many, too fast of late. The best attitude I can muster is that I have been privileged to have known so many people and places worth the pain of missing and worthy of the tears. Still, why it gotta hurt my heart so?

WhereYat.com | October 2020

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talked it over with my dog, and I suggested that as soon as we can, we should go to France. Together. She’s dubious and underwhelmed, and I can see that I’ll have to sell this.

One of the sidebars of the voluntary-seminonmedical-stay-at-home self-quarantine, besides a lot of time on my hands, is my newfound ability (and inclination) to converse with things around me, animate and in(animate). To the dishes in the sink: “What are you looking at?” To my Italian pepper plant: “Stop already, I have enough @#%$%^& peppers!” To my refrigerator: “That’s the LAST beer?” To my dog: “Hey Scout, wanna go to France?”

Scout doesn’t know what a “France” is, so I explain. “We go to the airport, get on an airplane, and fly for a while to where they eat different food, speak a different language, and do different things.”

“You mean like Fairhope, Alabama?” she asks.

“Kinda,” I say.

“What’s an airplane?”

“It’s like a bus that goes in the air like a bird.”

A very pregnant silence ensues. Then: “Do I sit in a seat, like in the car?”

“How do you feel about riding in another room on the plane, with the suitcases?”

“I don’t think I’d like that.”

“Okay, I’ll ask the vet if she’ll get you an exemption, like as a ‘companion dog.’”

“Good. Is it a long way away?”

“About half a day in the plane and then another half a day on a train.”

“Why can’t we take the car? Will I eat? What if I have to pee? Can I sit on your lap? Will there be treats?”

“Yes and no. You’ll probably be asleep the whole time. One minute you’ll be home, and the next you’ll be in France. We’re going to a little town called Angaïs. We’ll stay in a hotel.”

“You mean like Fairhope?”

“Kinda.”

“Is Mom coming?”

“Sure thing, Buddy.”

“What about the cats?”

“The cats have to stay home.”

“Will there be cats? I like cats; I have four.

What will be for supper? Can I still sleep in bed with you?”

“Well, we’ll mostly be eating out, but here’s the good news: You’ll be able to come into the restaurants and cafés with us. You see, in France, they believe that canines are to be welcomed everywhere, even where you eat out.”

“Really?”

“Here’s the other thing: The language there is mostly foreign to me, so I won’t be talking with other people as much. You’ll get lots of attention because many people there won’t know what I’m saying, either.

We (your Mom and I) have been to major attractions in France, and this time, we’re just going to chill, have walkabouts, drink in

the scenery, and eat some great food. Once we’re over there, we’ll be eating cheeses and pastries and breads, and we’ll see if we can rent a little place with a kitchen so that we can have coffee and croissants in the morning, fresh from the boulangerie—that’s what they call a bakery. We’ll drink wine in the afternoon at lunch and have Pastis with warm water in the afternoon. We’ll go boating on the river and introduce you to any new friends we make. We won’t know anyone there; it will all be new.”

“Can we still have Happy Hour at night with beer and potato chips and treats like at home?

Am I gonna like this France place? I don’t know about this Angaïs place.”

“Well, Angaïs is a small town in a bigger area. It’s a kinda nothing-to-do place, but that’s what we want, eh? There’re other towns around it, unless you’d rather stay in the country. Oh, there are also mountains and a beret museum.

I saw some in-town places for rent in a place called Pau, where we’d walk around and shop and stuff like we do in the French Quarter, and some country places, in case you want the great outdoors, with names like Asson, Peyrouse, and Ferrières. I’m gonna leave it up to you; it doesn’t make much difference to me.”

“Then why are we going?”

“Listen, Scoute (that’s your name in French), this year has been a real wear on me. The world has had sickness and trouble in the streets. We’ve had politicians fighting and calling each other names up to here and storms blowing through, and remember when our street flooded? And we’ve had to stay home and wear stuff on our faces. I’ve been out of work, we’ve had no visitors, and I watch the news all the time on television and read the newspaper. I’m sure that I haven’t been much fun, and we don’t go for walks as often or go riding in the car as much. And the year isn’t even over yet. And there goes that damn phone again! I just want to be someplace where I don’t know the language, the politics, or the currency, and I can get amnesia. I’ll take my sketch pad and some inks and maybe draw a lot of what I see. We’ll take pictures. We’ll take naps.”

“What’s amnesia?”

“All of what I just said.”

I had to stop there and answer the person on the phone, who wanted to cancel my student loan debt, even though I’ve been out of school since Washington crossed the Delaware, and besides, Scout was at the front porch barking at the postal delivery person—a daily ritual for her. She came back in, wagging her tail, and said, “Why don’t we just go to Fairhope? I bet you can get some amnesia there!”

Well, you know, when your dog is smarter than you are, you have to give it to her. “Okay, Scout, you wanna go to Fairhope?

“Yippee!”

“Okay, let’s go tell your Mom.” “I love you, Dad!” “Je t’aime aussi, chérie.”

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WhereYat.com | October 2020

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