WHERE Y'AT JULY Summer Restaurant Guide by Where Y'at Magazine

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SUMMER RESTAURANT GUIDE pg. 8

July 2020 | WhereYat.com

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CONTENTS July 2020 Publisher/Editor-in-Chief: Josh Danzig Creative Director: Matthew Desotell Executive Editor: Kathy Bradshaw

Features

Food & Drink

Movie Editors: David Vicari & Fritz Esker

Nothing Beats BBQ

Something to Beef About

Summer Restaurant Guide

$20 & Under

Contributing Writers: Emily Hingle, Kathy Bradshaw, Phil LaMancusa, Debbie Lindsey, Kim Ranjbar, Burke Bischoff, Steven Melendez, Kimmie Tubre, Julie Mitchell, Carolyn Heneghan

Virtual Tales of the Cocktail

Bar Guide

Director of Sales: Stephen Romero

4th of July Survey

Cover Photo by: Sara Bradley Location: The Joint Photographers & Designers: Gus Escanelle, Kathy Bradshaw, Kimmie Tubre, Emily Hingle, Vi Conway, Kyla Veal

Extras 26

Columns

Interns: Graham Andreae, John Glover, McKenna Smith, Sofia Gomez Alonso, Caroline Hebert, Clara Lacey, Bianca Soto, Amanda Gomez Subscribe: Receive 1 year (14 issues) for $30 and get a FREE Where Y’at CD. Subscribe today at WhereYat.com. Logo © 2020 All rights reserved Bruce Betzer, Legal Counsel: (504) 304-9952 Where Y’at Magazine 5500 Prytania St., #133 New Orleans, LA 70115 (504) 891-0144 info@whereyat.com WhereYat.com

Letter from the Publisher Hungry? Then pick out a new spot that you have never visited from our Summer Restaurant Guide. Please remember to responsibly wear a mask and practice social distancing, so that restaurants can continue to reopen to full capacity. While New Orleans is not known as a city famous for its BBQ, Emily Hingle does a great job sharing some of the top spots to visit. Plus, BBQ is delicious when eaten outdoors! Speaking of meat, Kim Ranjibar’s “Something to Beef About” is a great exposé about local butchers and nearby farms. If you have a sweet tooth, then her “$20 & Under” column about black-owned bakeries will put a smile on your face. With bars back open, who doesn’t need a good cocktail? Carolyn Heneghan speaks with Tales of the Cocktail Executive Director Caroline Rosen about how this year’s festival will go virtual. Be safe and please mask up! –Josh Danzig, Publisher

Summer Restaurant Guide | Where Y'at Magazine

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WhereYat.com | July 2020

NOTHING BEATS BARBECUE By Emily Hingle

Barbecue is certainly a strong Southern food tradition, but it’s not a type of food typically associated with the New Orleans area. Fine French and Creole dishes, hot-boiled seafood, and Afro-Caribbean fare dominate the menus around here. However, barbecue has become more popular than it ever has, with slow-cooked, sauced-up meats popping up on menus, BBQ joints opening up, and even barbecue festivals like Hogs For A Cause and The Crescent City Blues & BBQ Festival being increasingly well liked.

The Joint The Bywater boasts one of the bestknown barbecue restaurants that’s opened in recent years. The Joint at 701 Mazant Street is “always smokin’,” according to their tagline. They’re so famous for their burnt ends that there’s a chance they may sell out at any time. If they don’t, you can get those ends on a plate or in a sandwich. Open since 2012 at 900 N. Carrollton Ave., Blue Oak BBQ serves excellent platters, such as the St. Louis Spare Rib and House Spicy Green Onion Sausage. You have to check out the incredible sandwiches, including The Doobin Lubin, with pulled pork, smoked sausage, slaw, onions, pickles, and BBQ sauce, and the Pit Viper, with jerk pulled pork and spicy jalapenos. At Central City BBQ at 1201 S. Rampart St., you can get a full rack of ribs or meat by the pound. Pitmaster James Cruse knows his meat; he won Grand Champion & Best Ribs at Hogs For The Cause 2019 and was in the Top 3 for Best Ribs in the World in Memphis in May 2019. “Cowboy Candy” pork belly and USDA prime brisket platters are always a popular choice, and they have meat-topped salads for lighter fare. VooDoo BBQ started serving up their uniquely seasoned BBQ on Mardi Gras in 2002 at 1501 St. Charles Ave. Their many meats are dry-rubbed with Caribbean,

Cajun, and Creole spices before being smoked over oak and pecan woods. Being truly New Orleanian, VooDoo also serves burgers, gumbo, barbecue shrimp, and po-boys, including The Carnival Po-Boy: BBQ pork, chicken, and brisket with Cajun sausage, dripping in a blend of sauces. VooDoo BBQ has expanded to several states, but it all started on that Lower Garden District corner. McClure’s BBQ is nestled inside of NOLA Brewing at 3001 Tchoupitoulas St., and their menu goes amazingly well with their stalwart and experimental brews that are available at the bar just inches away. McClure’s offers pulled pork, ribs, and smoked chicken, as well as fried pork chops and fried chicken. Get some pulled pork gravy fries or smoked chicken nachos for a snack to go along with your IPA. Frey Smoked Meats at 4141 Bienville St. is bringing BBQ to a new level. You should start off with a Bucket O’ Biscuits drizzled in bacon honey butter, then continue to a piled-high meat platter. You may have to get the multi-meat option so that you don’t have to choose between the pork belly St. Louis ribs, pulled pork, and brisket. Those who like their meat between bread can get one of many Fatties or Flatties burgers. They also serve BBQ brunch,

Summer Restaurant Guide | Where Y'at Magazine

with BBQ grits, BBQ Benedict, and The Cure (Texas toast topped with home fries, brisket chili, white gravy, cheese, and two fried eggs). Farther up the river, Tres Bon Cajun Meats at 10316 Jefferson Hwy. in Harahan is known for cracklins and boudin. However, barbecued delicacies are peppered throughout the menu, which often includes innovative specials. The Artery Clogger sandwich comes with brisket, pork, bacon, garlic mayo, and pickles, while the Pork & Provolone has brisket, caramelized onions, and pimento cheese. For those wanting something more traditional, you can get The Divorce (half portions of all the meats) and the My Girlfriend’s Not Hungry with fries and a boudin ball. The Ugly Dog Saloon & BBQ at 401 Andrew Higgins Blvd. in the Warehouse District has been serving their ugly yet tasty meats since 1998. Try the Ugly Fries smothered in pork green chili and queso, the Asian BBQ chicken quesadilla, or brisket panini. The platters are served Ugly, Uglier, and Ugliest, with a massive amount of meats, including smoked chicken, ribs, pulled pork, and sausage. Bourbon & Bailey’s BBQ at 1015 N. Claiborne Ave. has smoked meats, including slow-smoked baby-back ribs and pulled

pork and a full menu of oysters for surfand-turf lovers. Emmylou’s BBQ in St. Roch Market at 2381 St. Claude Ave. sells meats by the half pound and plates, with options such as beef cheeks and jalapeno cheddar sausage, but the sides are different than most other barbecue places and include cornbread waffles with chipotlehoney butter and Frito pie. The Lakeview BBQ eatery The Backyard, at 244 West Harrison Ave., has all the foods you’d find at a typical backyard party, including BBQ, burgers, and hot dogs. Even their sloppy joe includes some smoked brisket with the ground beef. The house-smoked pork sandwich comes piled with chimmi-slaw and “Not Sweet” BBQ sauce. Sometimes, barbecue can be on the fancy side. Cochon Butcher at 930 Tchoupitoulas St. is known for more upscale and exotic meat dishes, but the BBQ Pork Carolina Style, with sauce and slaw, can settle your need for smokey goodness. Piece of Meat Butcher at 3301 Bienville St. has a wide variety of food, like salads, charcuterie, and deli meats. They also have a couple of BBQ options, such as the St. Louis-style rib plate and BBQ plate with smoked brisket, ribs, boudin, slaw, and pickled onions.

WhereYat.com | July 2020

SUMMER RESTAURANT GUIDE African Bennachin blends influences from places such as Gambia and Cameroon and is just as exotic. What started as a business in Metairie is now a popular location in the French Quarter. Boasting a calm and attractive atmosphere, Bennachin has dishes for both vegans and omnivores that are full of flavor and will make your taste buds light up. 1212 Royal St., 5221230, bennachinrestaurant.com

American Bayou Hot Wings has more hot wings than the entire city of Nashville. Their “madefrom-scratch” wings come with a whole slew of sauces, or you can opt for a burger or wrap instead. Try the Bayou Hot Wing Challenge for a chance to have your meal comped and your picture on the Wall of Fame. Warning: not for the faint-of-heart. Bayou Hot Wings brings the heat. 6221 S. Claiborne Ave., bayouhotwings.com Betty’s Bar and Bistro offers a no-fuss bite to eat if you have a hankering for food like your mama made. A locally owned bar and bistro in the French Quarter, Betty’s has an

eclectic menu of good ol’ diner fare with a Cajun twist. Their menu ranges from mac and cheese bites to bigger plates, like a catfish sandwich or their Bistro Burger. 700 Burgundy St., 354-1222, bettysbar.com Daisy Dukes offers authentic Southern dining in a relaxed Southern atmosphere. They have a comfortable and casual vibe and will deliver a consistently good meal to you whenever you come through their doors. You can find them at locations throughout the city, should you need to make a pit stop during your day to refuel for breakfast, lunch, or dinner. Multiple Locations, daisydukesrestaurant.com The Duke proclaims that their legend is in the food, and their fried mac and cheese and burgers are definitely legendary. The Duke is casual but full of flavor and charm. In addition to burgers, they also serve salads, pasta, hot dogs, and fried dessert. Fried bread pudding, anyone? As any grease aficionado will attest, anything fried ought to be tried. 2740 Severn Ave., Metairie, 353-4227, thedukemetairie.com Fullblast Brunch is a New Orleans brunch place with Creole, Latin, and Cajun influences. It is open right now with dine-in options

Daisy Dukes 8

Summer Restaurant Guide | Where Y'at Magazine

available. If you’re looking to get a quick bite or a heartier Southern fix, you’re sure to find what you need at this fun eatery. Located in Mid-City, Fullblast is as convenient as it is delicious. 139 S. Cortez St., 504-302-2800, fullblastbrunch.com Gattuso’s will be sure to satisfy your hunger, whether you are craving soft-shell crab, a salmon salad, or something more substantial. The restaurant also offers gumbo and a bevy of appetizers that can sate your appetite before you dig into any number of delectable entrees. Gattuso’s always makes you feel like you are at home with their friendly service and remarkable cooking. 435 Huey P. Long Ave., Gretna, 386-1114, gattusos.net Lakeview Harbor, “home of Lakeview’s original burger,” offers a wide selection of American classics, such as salads, USDA steaks, po-boys, wraps, pizza, seafood, and so much more. They have daily specials every day, including red beans with smoked sausage on Mondays and chicken-fried steak or meatstuffed bell peppers on Tuesdays. They even serve breakfast. 8550 Pontchartrain Ave., 486-4887, lakeviewharbor.us Liberty Cheesesteaks boasts some of the best cheesesteaks this side of the City

of Brotherly Love. But don’t allow Liberty Cheesesteaks’s name to fool you; their menu doesn’t stop at cheesesteaks. They offer other top-notch sandwiches as well, including signature hoagies and subs. Stop by their drive-thru, if you’re on-the-go, or sit down to enjoy a cheesesteak and catch a game on TV. 5041 Freret St., 875-4447, libertycheesesteaks.com Spudly’s Super Spuds is a baked-potato hot spot that also serves a host of other dishes, such as burgers, salads, and po-boys. But people really come for the potatoes—they don’t call it “a meal in a baked potato” for nothing. Try your potato topped with everything from crabmeat and shrimp to beef chili to broccoli and cheese. 2609 Harvard Ave., Metairie, 455-3250, spudlys.com Willie Mae’s is a quintessential Southern restaurant. Fried chicken and mashed potatoes? You bet! They also offer dishes closer to home, such as seafood gumbo. Go to drink and be merry, or to enjoy Willie Mae’s famous food. There’s now a second location at Pythian Market, an offshoot of the original Scotch House, with all the same chicken you know and love. Multiple locations, williemaesnola.com

Willie Mae's

Asian Green Tea is a fantastic little restaurant that feeds you quickly. Thet take orders for takeout and delivery, for those looking to satisfy their Chinese-food cravings at home. The restaurant is known for its “GT Way,” where you can create your own dishes by selecting your choice of meat, a vegetable, and a sauce. 3001 Napoleon Ave., 899-8005, greenteanola.com Kyoto 2 serves excellent Asian cuisine in an inconspicuous location. Offering a dine-in experience now with limited seating, this is a great place to eat in New Orleans. Though the sushi bar is not currently open for dining in, customers may still order sushi to go. A stand-out is the Funky Margarita Roll, with crawfish, tuna, salmon, and guacamole. (Kyoto 2 will be closed from June 21 until July 5.) 5608 Citrus Blvd. A-B, 818-0228, facebook. com/Kyoto2Nola Lotus Bistro is a Japanese fusion restaurant in Lakeview. They do ramen and bento, not to mention a slate of signature sushi dishes. Lotus has achieved a popular following among New Orleanians by seamlessly blending ancient techniques with more modern ways of preparing sushi, the end result being a uniquely appealing mixture. Their talented sushi chefs are secondto-none. 203 W. Harrison Ave., 533-9879, lotusbistronola.com Mikimoto is another great sushi joint that is sure to please the sushi-lover in your life with its impressive range of items on the menu, including tempura, sesame chicken, tuna tartar, and, of course, sushi. The Crescent City Roll has crab, crawfish, shrimp, and avocado, and they even offer rice-less rolls for those going Keto. For something different, try the wasabi mussels. 3301 S. Carrollton Ave., 488-1881, mikimotosushi.com Miyako Hibachi & Sushi is a Japanese restaurant offering delectable hibachi dishes for takeout today, with flavor that can only be found here. The restaurant remains open and is serving filet, salmon, chicken, calamari, lobster, and more, as well as any combination of the bunch. Miyako also offers a selec-

tion of lunch specials. Don’t miss their Cajun crawfish tacos. 1403 St. Charles Ave., 4109997, miyakonola.com MoPho is a great restaurant located near City Park that offers Vietnamese dishes with a Cajun flair that are true crowd-pleasers. Chef Michael Gulotta brings it all together for this restaurant and makes it what it is. MoPho is a super spot for a date or a group of friends who want great cocktails, fabulous pho, and cozy patio seating. 514 City Park Ave., 4826845, mophonola.com Origami is a sushi restaurant that calls itself a “taste of Japan.” It successfully captures the seemingly understated yet deeply complicated art of sushi. The sushi menu consists of over 20 kinds of rolls, from salmon to snow crab. Origami has lunch specials and a whole menu of vegetarian dishes. Try a little hot sake with your “Saints Kick” roll and stay for the banana tempura. 899-6532, 5130 Freret St., origaminola.com

Bars With Great Food 5216 Table & Tap is a classy joint that offers late-night comfort food and drinks, with a great menu that has tacos, burgers, and all the comfort foods you could want from a bar. On top of that, they serve pastries from Maurice French Pastries. Try their beautiful and delicious cocktails from their tastefully renovated bar. 5216 Veterans Memorial Blvd., Metairie, 766-1417, 5216tableandtap.com Backspace Bar and Kitchen boasts Hemingway-inspired sandwiches and literary homages throughout the bar. It is itself a reprieve from the chaos of the French Quarter. Stop by for a quick bite to eat but stay for the culture and the atmosphere, which will pull you in the way your favorite novel does. Backspace sates both your cultural and culinary appetites.139 Chartres St., 322-2245, backspacenola.com Buffa’s Bar and Restaurant is now open from 11 a.m. until 11 p.m. for dine-in. With its music, affordable drinks, and food you can count on, Buffa’s has brightened up New Orleans ever since it was founded in 1939 on the “border of the Quarter.” This is the place

Mikimoto

Copper Vine Winepub to go if you like a place with a friendly neighborhood vibe. 1001 Esplanade Ave., 9490038, buffasrestaurant.com Copper Vine Winepub is a classy yet welcoming spot known for its nature-filled courtyard, wine on tap, and delicious bites. Their crab deviled eggs are a guest favorite, the crawfish beignets are to die for, and their frozen sangria is one of the best things you’ve ever had in a glass. They also sell sangria kits so you can make some at home. 1001 Poydras St., 208-9535, coppervinewine.com Dmac’s Bar and Grill is a cool bar with live music regularly and a great selection of beer and mixed drinks. Located in Mid-City, this hidden gem is where you will find surprisingly good music, no cover charge, delicious bar food, and Sunday brunch. It proclaims itself as New Orleans’s best-kept secret. Why not head on over and see for yourself? 542 S. Jefferson Davis Pkwy., 304-5757, dmacsbarandgrill.com Fulton Alley is a bowling alley and a bar, with an impressive selection of beer and wine and excellent food to enjoy while you knock down a few pins. Popular highlights include the French dip sandwich, “Loaded Baked Potato Tots,” and spinach and artichoke dip. Now open only on the weekends, Fulton Alley also takes reservations for private events.

208-5569, 600 Fulton St., fultonalley.com The Jimani is a sports bar in the French Quarter with Italian-American roots. Their unique heritage means that soccer fans especially will find what they’re looking for here, though the bar also screens other types of games. The restaurant side of the operation offers a mouthwatering range of options, from burgers to Chicago-style hot dogs, all at affordable prices. 141 Chartres St., 5240493, thejimani.com Rivershack Tavern is a popular classic spot that boasts an impressive selection of beer and delicious food to boot. With a classic exterior off of a postcard, this place is here to make sure that you have a good time. Known for its fantastic burgers and wonderful daily specials, Rivershack also has plenty of outdoor seating as well as live music. 3449 River Rd., Jefferson, 834-4938, rivershacktavern. com Rum and the Lash, inside Mick’s Irish Pub, brings bar food to a new level. Their burgers, wraps, salads, and chicken sandwiches are of the quality to be found in a great restaurant. Mick’s is everything you’d expect an Irish pub to be: inexpexpensive, approachable, and a whole lot of fun. Honestly, what’s better than a cold beer and a classic burger? 4801 Bienville St., 482-9113 rumandthelash.com

Rivershack Tavern WhereYat.com | July 2020

Cafe Amelie Tracey’s is a beloved Irish bar boasting sensational food and a truly spectacular beer selection. Now serving po-boys aplenty, Tracey’s is opening its doors to customers again. Their “World’s Best Roast Beef” po-boy genuinely earned its name. Look to Tracey’s for your latenight adventures with beer, bar snacks, and a place to catch up with friends. 2604 Magazine St., 897-5413, traceysnola.com

Cafés Bearcat Café is a cozy café that features healthy as well as hearty options. Now offering dine-in and takeout, Bearcat Café is known as one of the best brunch spots in town. Visit them for breakfast or lunch, with comfortable patio seating, fantastic cocktails, and their special Alinea coffee. The “Shrimp Daddy Burrito” is not to be missed.309-9011, Multiple Locations, bearcatcafe.com Café 615 (Home of Da Wabbit) is a special Westbank spot that you won’t want to pass up. They are welcoming customers back for dine-in and takeout during the week. Founded in 1948, this café is dedicated to serving authentic Creole dishes—ranging from filet mignon to crawfish queso—to generations of families. They also have plenty of cocktails and draft beer. 615 Kepler St., Gretna, 365-1225, cafe615.com

BRING THE HEAT THIS SUMMER

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salad and sandwich options as well as their soup du jour. Multiple Locations., 267-9190, caffecaffe.com Carmo boasts flavors “from Southeast Asia to West Africa, the Caribbean, South America, and beyond.” This is a great date spot, and don’t visit without trying one of their fantastic cocktails or fresh tropical juices. The restaurant provides a comfortable atmosphere and amazing food, for anyone looking for an exotic and tasty meal. Their cheese-topped Armenian breads are worth a trip alone. 527 Julia St., 875-4132, cafecarmo.com Haydel’s Bake Shop is a satellite location of the famous Haydel’s Bakery. This is a great way to get some of the iconic baked goods Haydel’s is known for, at an Uptown location. They are internationally acclaimed for their king cakes, but check out their cupcakes, petits fours, and other pastries, which are delicious as well. They even do wedding cakes. 3117 Magazine St., 267-3165, facebook.com/ haydelsbakeshop

NOLA Caye is a Caribbean-inspired restaurant in the Warehouse District. It’s a boutique eatery with gorgeous décor, including floor-toceiling windows and a spacious interior. Located in a building formerly used for housing, the space has that lively Warehouse-District feeling of an upscale restaurant—a sort of diaCafé Amelie, located in the Princess of Momond in the rough. Get your oysters on the naco courtyard in the French Quarter, opened half shell or a top-notch steak. 898 Baronne in 2005 but looks as historic as New Orleans St., 302-1302, nolacaye.com itself. The café’s indoor space is nestled inside a 150-year-old carriage house. The adjoinParkway Bakery has been around since 1911, ing courtyard is so breathtaking that people and it has earned its status as a New Orleans hold weddings there. But Café Amelie isn’t classic. Considered to be a neighborhood just pretty; it's also known for its seafood and hangout, Parkway Bakery also brings people weekend brunch options. 912 Royal St., 412- from all around the city and beyond with their 8965, cafeamelie.com famous po-boys, such as the alligator smoked sausage and “surf & turf” varieties. And they Café Navarre is a laid-back café boasting a have a full bar with drink specials. 538 Hagan delectable menu that keeps bringing custom- Ave., 482-3047, parkwaypoorboys.com ers back. It also features a very spacious porch, which is a big draw on weekends. Self-proPicnic Provisions & Whiskey is a peppy claimed “Home of the Froscrew,” their famous restaurant with a Southern menu to rememfrozen screwdriver cocktail, Café Navarre will ber. Home to some of the best fried chicken deliver a good meal, whether that be a cheesy in town, Picnic & Provisions will cater your pizza or a thick juicy burger. 800 Navarre Ave., next picnic or special event with all the fix483-8828, cafenavarre.com ings. Highlights include their cocktails (try the pina colada!) and the Crawfish Boil Hot Fried Caffe! Caffe! warrants the enthusiasm of its Chicken Sandwich. 741 State St., 266-2810, name. This coffee shop’s multiple locations are nolapicnic.com renowned across the city for both their coffee and their dining options. For breakfast, they Please U Restaurant puts out traditional Louioffer a slate of made-from-scratch options, siana food with a touch of love. This is the sort from breakfast sandwiches to fresh juices. For of classic comfort food that people seek out. lunch, Caffe! Caffe! has a number of creative Started by Greek restaurateurs in 1946, this

family business has become an institution on the Avenue. They’re open from 7 a.m. until 3 p.m., so hit them up for a breakfast or lunch to remember. 1751 St. Charles Ave., 5259131, pleaseunola.com Riccobono’s Panola Street Cafe is open from Thursday to Sunday every week for breakfast, lunch, and brunch, serving a wide range of American breakfast staples. They have a whole range of three-egg omelet options, multiple sorts of Eggs Benedict, and, for something sweeter, pancakes and Belgian waffles. Too decadent? Opt for the egg white plate or oatmeal bowl instead. 7801 Panola St., 314-1810, panolastreetcafe.com Sala is a trendy eatery that will win you over. Located by the Lakefront, this restaurant offers brunch and dinner with style. Try one of their small plates, such as the duck empanadas, or something more substantial, like the vegan pasta or fish tacos. Their cocktail menu is impressive, and they offer bottomless mimosas at brunch. 124 Lake Marina Ave., 5132670, salanola.com The Vintage wants you to enjoy your time in their restaurant by savoring their wine and food. They offer homemade gourmet beignets, great breakfast, and a host of other options, such as fresh-baked cookies with milk. They have a superior champagne selection and an excellent Happy Hour. Pair a glass of their wine with a cheese board or one of their flatbreads. 3121 Magazine St., 324-7144, thevintagenola.com

French Café Degas, featuring French cuisine, is famous for its Sunday brunch. The restaurant’s over 30 years of history qualify it as the longest-running French bistro in New Orleans. They’re known for their romantic ambience, including white-tablecloth, candlelit dinners. A tree growing through the interior of the restaurant helps lend Café Degas its own special style: a blend of upscale and downto-earth. 3127 Esplanade Ave., 945-5635, cafedegas.com Vyoone’s is a French restaurant in a very classic way. With intense Creole and French influences, this restaurant offers dishes straight outta France, such as escargot, French onion soup, and salade niçoise. The place features a charming patio that’s perfect for enjoying a cocktail. Make a reservation at Vyoone’s for your next date night or special occasion. 412 Girod St., 518-6007, vyoone.com

Italian Andrea’s is a lovable Italian spot where its congenial chef Andrea will steal your heart and then your stomach. Whether it be authentic Northern or Continental Italian cuisine you seek, you will be sure to have a wonderful meal. Grab a drink before your meal in their charming Capri Blu lounge, which features live music on the weekends. 3100 19th St., Metairie, 834-8583, andreasrestaurant.com Josephine Estelle, run by James Beard Awardwinners, blends Italian cooking with flavors of the American South. Featuring fried chicken with an Italian twist and rigatoni on the same menu, Josephine Estelle achieves an idiosyncratic and rare fusion. With its plush seating arrangement and ornate interior, this restaurant offers the best of both worlds: truly fine dining and reasonable prices to boot. 600 Carondelet St., 930-3070, josephineestelle.com Mosca’s serves some of the city’s best Italian food. Call ahead for a reservation, as the dining room is only open from Wednesday through Saturday. Customers can still get their Shrimp Mosca, Oysters Mosca, or any other of their favorite dishes, like the Italian crab salad. Make sure to hold off for the grand dessert finale: pineapple fluff! 4137 US-90 West, Westwego, 436-8950, moscasrestaurant.com Pascal’s Manale is known nearly as much for its fresh oysters as it is for its BBQ shrimp, which is a dish that they created. It is also famous for its Italian dishes, such as Eggplant Dryades. Pascal’s is open Tuesday thru Saturday, serving wonderful pastas, salads, and seafood specialties. Grab a cocktail at their bar, before or after your meal. 1838 Napoleon Ave., 895-4877, pascalsmanale.com PIZZA domenica is one of the best pizza joints in New Orleans because of its mastery of the sauce, not to mention its signature thin-crust dough. With both Uptown and Mid-City locations, Pizza domenica doesn’t just serve pizza, though. Try some of their antipasti or salad by ordering takeout, or dine-in to sample one of their famous craft cocktails. Multiple Locations, 301-4978, pizzadomenica.com Venezia is an iconic restaurant that never disappoints. Serving traditional Italian cuisine “with a New Orleans flair” since 1957, Venezia has great pizzas that are fantastic for both dine-in or takeout. Get your pie topped with crawfish! Come for their chicken marsala or their veal spinach cannelloni, but don’t leave until you’ve tried their cheesecake. Now also open for lunch on Saturday. N. Carrollton Ave., 4887991, venezianeworleans.net

Venezia

686152-1870659

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Mexican Carreta's Grill has been serving quality Mexican food for over 20 years. Whether you’re craving fajitas or tacos, Carreta’s is sure to have what you need. Try a mango or strawberry margarita with some chips and fresh guacamole or a giant burrito. This Mexican restaurant brings a festive ambience to the table, along with authenticity and frugal prices. Multiple locations, carretasgrillrestaurant.com Chilango’s has labored to be “not your typical Mexican joint.” They go beyond the usual Tex-Mex standards and incorporate influences from South and Central America and Europe in their dishes. Chilango’s relies on a variety of authentic ingredients, such as corn, beans, meats, dairy products, and various herbs and spices. Don’t miss Ribeye Thursdays, with steak dinners for just $9.75. 1506 S. Carrollton Ave., 766-9949, chilangosnola.com El Paso Mexican Grill serves traditional TexMex food that will put a smile on your face. Think mouthwatering tacos, enchiladas, margaritas, and much more. El Paso has some of the best queso dip in town, so don’t skip the starters. With El Paso's fresh ingredients and quality tequila, you know that everything that you eat or drink there is going to be good. Multiple locations, elpasomexrestaurant.com Juan’s Flying Burrito is a local favorite, with four locations and over 20 years of history in the New Orleans area. They do Mexican food with an idiosyncratic Southeastern Louisiana twist. Their menu features such Southwestern necessities as burritos and nachos, but also the sort of fish tacos that can only be properly experienced this side of the Gulf Coast. Multiple Locations, juansflyingburrito.com

Middle Eastern Lebanon’s Cafe offers traditional Middle Eastern dishes, including homemade hummus and some of the best kabobs in New Orleans. The restaurant has a BYOB policy and beautiful murals lining its walls. Order one of their lunch plates, which come with hummus, salad, and pita. This Middle Eastern spot combines the hospitality and convenience of a family-owned restaurant with affordable prices. 1500 S. Carrollton Ave., 862-6200, lebanonscafe.com Pyramid’s Cafe has been called the premiere Mediterranean option in New Orleans, and it isn’t difficult to see why. They’re known for their gyro plates as well as stuffed lamb, a versatile dish which comes spicy or mild. Family-owned, Pyramid’s has been in the business for over three decades, giving their patrons the kind of personal attention that distinguishes them. 3149 Calhoun St., 8619602, neworleanspyramidscafe.com

New Orleans Cuisine Chef Ron’s Gumbo Stop is an awardwinning gumbo shop in Metairie, known for

its low-key atmosphere and delicious food. Featuring genuine Louisiana-style cooking, this place is a must-visit for anyone seeking real New Orleans cuisine. Sit down for their Mumbo Gumbo or one of their sizable vegetarian offerings. Chef Ron’s is a great portrait of local cooking. 2309 N. Causeway Blvd., Metairie, 835-2022, gumbostop.com

Poppa's Seafood & Deli

Coterie NOLA Restaurant & Oyster Bar is a locally owned restaurant with New Orleans style. Visiting their posh space in the French Quarter, guests have a versatile range of menu items to choose from. Try their crawfish étouffée, chargrilled oysters, crab cake pasta, or, for something different, an alligator platter. They also have an extensive cocktail menu and serve breakfast. 135 Decatur St., 529-8600, coterienola.com Mandina’s offers a combination of Italian and New Orleans cuisine that makes for an exceptional blend, even in a city as diverse as this one. Guests can get not only fried catfish, but also spaghetti and meatballs. In typical Italian fashion, they dole it out in heaping portions, so expect to take some home. And it’s now soft-shell crab season at Mandina’s! 3800 Canal St., 482-9179, mandinasrestaurant.com/nola Melba's Poboys is a deli-style place of plenty. It offers you a multitude of choices when it comes to po-boys, from the guilty-pleasure french-fry po-boy to more traditional fare, such as a shrimp po-boy. They also have plate lunches, wings, must-have sides, and frozen daiquiris. Melba’s lives by the motto “Eat at Melba’s, pray before eating, and love New Orleans.” 1525 Elysian Fields Ave., 2677765, melbas.com Mother’s is a legendary New Orleans establishment. This Central Business District spot has been around since 1938. They serve authentic Creole cuisine and everything that goes with it. Try out traditional dishes, like their spectacular fried chicken, famous Jerry’s Jambalaya, or their “world’s best” baked ham. And go ahead and sleep in: Breakfast is available all day. 401 Poydras St., 523-9656, mothersrestaurant.net New Orleans Creole Cookery meshes together the core elements of quality dining: ambience and cuisine. They offer both a stylish interior as well as an outdoor, spacious patio area, complete with hanging light fixtures and a fountain. Their menu, consisting of mostly New Orleans staples, includes highlights like gumbo three different ways and six unique styles of Hurricane cocktail. 508 Toulouse St., 524-9632, neworleanscreolecookery.com Neyow’s Creole Café is a popular blackowned business in Mid-City. The restaurant serves a lean menu of Creole food. They go for quality, not quantity, in terms of menu options. Neyow’s has different specials every day, such as Cornish hen or BBQ shrimp, as well as everyday salads, pasta, po-boys, and more. Sit inside or try their outdoor patio seating. 3332 Bienville St., 827-5474, neyows.com

Summer Restaurant Guide | Where Y'at Magazine

Parran’s Po-Boys & Restaurant, an iconic restaurant with locations in Metairie, Kenner, and Uptown, serves po-boys, po-boys, and po-boys. Did we mention that Parran’s has po-boys? Not only that, but their menu features a slate of Cajun and Italian options, from Eggplant Parran and spaghetti to red beans and rice. With four locations, Parran’s is bound to be near you. Multiple locations, parranspoboys.com

Landry’s Seafood House does a range of freshly caught seafood dishes, from their signature Blackened Redfish Etouffée and crab cakes to shrimp, oysters, and lobster. Prefer your food land-based? They have steak, chicken, salad, and burger options as well. Landry’s also offers a mouthwatering breadth of specialty cocktails, such as a Raspberry Lemon Drop, and family meals to go. 620 Decatur St., 581-9825, landrysseafood.com

Poppa's Seafood & Deli has been serving the 9th Ward of New Orleans for 25 years. They combine traditional, Southern, and New Orleans comfort food into one hardto-forget blend. Guests have a number of options to choose from, from fried chicken to spaghetti and meatballs and beans and greens. The crawfish pies, bread pudding, and gumbo also get rave reviews. 3311 N. Galvez St., 947-3373

Tito’s Ceviche & Pisco is a unique restaurant that brings Peruvian flavors to seafood, including its eponymous ceviche. Tito’s has a number of grab-and-go drinks available for those not wanting to eat in, but advanced reservations are encouraged for on-site dining. Aside from the ceviches, they also offer a number of other plates, such as the duck confit with beer glaze. 5015 Magazine St., 267-7612, titoscevichepisco.com

Short Stop Poboys, now offering limited dine-in, is a neighborhood po-boy shop, as the name suggests. It offers a whole menu of delicious sandwiches for you to enjoy, in sixinch, nine-inch, or massive 14-inch king-size varieties. Choose from meatball, seafood, french fries, and so much more. Can’t decide? Short Stop will let you go half-and-half with many of the po-boy fillings. 119 Transcontinental Dr., Metairie, 885-4572, shortstoppoboysno.com

Seafood Briquette is a classy New Orleans seafood spot that stands out for its quality. Located in a former molasses refinery with an open kitchen, an 18-foot seafood display, and a large bar area, this restaurant has a first-rate atmosphere to match its excellent food. You can’t go wrong with the Louisiana redfish or the Snapper Pontchartrain. 701 S. Peters St., 302-7496, briquette-nola.com

Vegetarian Max Well is a high-class vegetarian restaurant serving healthy food that is both inventive and fun. The restaurant primarily serves salads, soups, and bowls but also has a number of other great dishes that will spice up your dinner in unexpected ways. And it is all environmentally friendly. This is an excellent choice for vegetarian dishes that are lively, exciting, and flavorful. 6101 Magazine St., 301-0510 maxwellneworleans.com Seed is currently open for takeout and delivery, offering naan pizza and mushroom tostadas as their latest specials. In addition, they have a range of beer, wine, and cocktail selections, to compliment your meal. The restaurant also offers a variety of tacos and sandwiches to round out a great plant-based menu that will provide for your whole family. 1330 Prytania St., 417-7333, seedneworleans.com

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WhereYat.com | July 2020

DIGITALES: A Virtual Tales of the Cocktail Experience

by Carolyn Heneghan

New Orleanians look forward to three things in the summer: sno-balls, sipping mint juleps on the porch, and Tales of the Cocktail. This premier annual event for the bar and alcohol industries has long been a financial oasis for the city’s bars and restaurants during the steamy New Orleans summertime, which is the doldrums of local tourism. However, the global COVID-19 pandemic changed all that for this year’s event, scheduled for July 21-25, 2020.

Shift Change As a critical summertime economic generator for the city, Tales of the Cocktail, affectionately known as Tales, has been a landmark festival-scale event for the hospitality industry for the past 18 years. The seasonal increase in tourism and hospitality sales provides a much-needed boost for both the finances and morale of local bars, restaurants, and other local businesses. But for summer 2020, New Orleans faces a large-scale events shutdown in response to COVID-19. On top of closing doors and struggling with limited hours, menus, and capacity for months, businesses will now also lose much of the revenue they generate from the week of Tales each year. “Immediately, my heart broke for our community,” said Caroline Rosen, executive director for the Tales of the Cocktail Foundation. “And it also broke for a larger global community because it is truly a time when this community can gather to learn as well as really be able to spotlight new and amazing work.” Tales of the Cocktail won't host the traditional in-person seminars, tastings, brand experiences, and other events at various local establishments in 2020. But organizers have made a concerted effort to shift much of the usual programming to a digital format with virtual experiences. “We just had to take a step back and see what the essence of Tales is and what makes it important and try to find ways that we could do that digitally,” said Rosen, “but while also keeping in mind the restraints of being digital.”

Virtual Seminars and Tastings Education has long been a core component of the Tales experience, usually delivered as seminars hosted by industry experts and brand representatives. For this year's digital event, Tales will instead host complimentary virtual seminars. Some will stream live, some are prerecorded, and several will include live chat and live Q&A sessions to enable real-time interaction and connections between the audience and presenters. Most difficult to replace or to transform from the

traditional format to virtual have been the spirits tastings and Spirited Dinners hosted by liquor brands. Attendees won't be sipping on whiskey or gin together this year, but brand teams have configured a range of virtual experiences for Global Tales. Sessions range from guided tastings and behind-thescenes tours to virtual brand “booths” via a Tales-sponsored app. These experiences more deeply explore the agricultural and production aspects of bringing these products to life behind the bar.

alcoholic beverage industries. Past years have featured daily morning runs, mocktail demonstrations, yoga classes, 12step meetings, and seminars focused on sleep, nutrition, and mental health, among other health and wellness topics. Event organizers continue to finalize Beyond the Bar content. This year, the daily morning runs continue globally via the Tales app, and free wellness activities switch to a virtual format. Brands can sponsor fitness classes, such as yoga, boxing, pilates, and cycling, or hands-on trainings, including pressure-point therapy, self-massage, and taping/ bracing workshops. In place of mocktails prepared by esteemed mixologists for attendees each day, experts will virtually demonstrate recipes for no- and low-alcohol cocktails via video clips shared on the app. “With so much bad news and uncertainty, I can say that it's been really amazing to see the creativity of the community, and I'm excited to showcase a lot of that during the week of Tales,” said Rosen.

Going Global

“Even though you're not going to be able to go through those tastings, we're having some of our partners really give us exclusive access,” said Rosen. “So it's a collector's home, or we can see where the spirit came from. People are really getting creative.”

Health and Wellness on Tap Now in its third year, Tales of the Cocktail’s Beyond the Bar programming has focused on health and wellness for hospitality workers, particularly in the bar, restaurant, and

Summer Restaurant Guide | Where Y'at Magazine

As one promising opportunity from its digital iteration, Tales can now reach more people living across the world via the virtual platform. This includes attendees who can't afford the travel costs or ticketed events but who want to learn more about the bar and alcohol industries as professionals and consumers. The mandated COVID adaptations may end up inspiring lasting changes to the Tales experience that could further expand the event’s impact throughout the industry worldwide. “Now that we have agreed to keep the date and really focused on a digital platform, we're hoping that we're going to be able to reach more people than we ever have in the past,” Rosen said. “And, hopefully, we’ll bring that community to more people not only around New Orleans and the States, but around the globe.” New Orleans may not get to enjoy Tales of the Cocktail in person for 2020. But the Crescent City will see a new side of its beloved summer event that may encourage more national and international visitors in the years to come.

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Is not being able to go to Old Navy to get a gray shirt with an American flag on it getting you down? Well, even though we are in a period of economic, political, and social turmoil, we can still eat hot dogs and look at explosions in the sky. But which item of this glorious day represents you personally? Don’t worry, we made a quiz. Remember, no matter which item you get, this day is a celebration of a riot (dumping the tea into the harbor was destruction of property!), and I hope you recognize current riots and protests as echoes of this ongoing and historic fight for freedom. Happy 4th! 1. Have you ever been on a boat? a. My uncle has one. b. I've seen someone drown. Does that count? c. I have a DVD of Jaws. d. I was born on a boat, and I'll die on a boat. 2. What Spotify playlist did you put on for the picnic? a. Born in the USA. b. Party in the USA. c. 'Murica. d. American Boy.

c. Yes, and it is especially important on the 4th of July, when we celebrate America’s freedom, to recognize that not all of her citizens fully have that yet, and this is why we fight. d. They do, and I also believe in defunding the police. 5. What’s your favorite kind of pie? a. Apple. b. Moonshine. c. Chocolate bourbon pecan. d. Grilled peach.

a. Joey Chestnut. b. The law. c. My breathalyzer. d. My first wife. 8. What is your 4th of July outfit? a. Cargo shorts, baseball hat. b. Low-cut red top, blue eye shadow, white nails. c. Two words: tank top. d. Anything that can hold all my knives.

9. Have you ever gotten a DUI? 3. What is the perfect hot a. I would have, but he got a dog topping? 6. What’s your relationship call. a. Another hot dog. to fireworks? b. No, but I love drunk driving. b. Cool Ranch Doritos, a. They remind me of my c. I mean, yes. crushed up. childhood. d. I ride an ATV most of the c. One of those upside-down b. Something so intense that time. airplane bottles to infuse vodka it’s verging on sexual. into the hot dog. c. I like when the lights blow up. 10. What is your favorite exd. Ketchup and mustard. d. Same as my relationship plosions movie? to dogs. a. Speed. 4. Do black lives matter? b. Lethal Weapon. a. Yes. 7. Who are you absolutely c. Independence Day. b. Yes, but with money donated. not inviting to the BBQ? d. Bad Boys.

If you chose mostly As, congratulations! You are: Hot Dog. Not quite meat, not quite trash—expected, but somehow always a surprise. You make everything make sense. When there’s a big group of people and no one knows each other, you don’t introduce everyone, but you do kind of stand in the middle of the two separate groups, so at least it looks like people are having a good time. We couldn’t do any of this without you, but also, no one wants you here very much.

If you selected mostly Bs, congratulations, you are: Illegal Firework! You've probably already left to smoke weed with your cousin at least once, and you're still in 7th grade emotionally. The epitome of fun, to you, is driving a Toyota Corolla too fast in a parking lot and when the Superbowl is about to come back from a commercial. You used to be a bully, but now you're realizing that's wrong. 4th of July is about hope to you, and sometimes you cry thinking about it.

If your answers were mostly Cs, congratulations, you are: 15 Beers. Most days, we celebrate with one to six beers, but on the anniversary of our independence, we celebrate with 15! Cheap beer is just fun water. This day is honestly your time to shine. You only need to go to the bathroom once every 2.5 hours, you can get a bite of nachos with at least three toppings, and you are still processing a lot of stuff with your ex, so the fireworks are going to be a real emotional journey for you.

If you had mostly Ds, congratulations. You are: Active Grill! Always the first to show up and always the one with lighter fluid. None of your shirts have sleeves, and none of your exes talk to you. You are gruff, but with an even gruffer interior. You do have some surprises, though: You love animals, have cried to one Coldplay song (not “The Scientist” or “Fix You”), and you still have most of your Beanie Baby collection (what if they come back?). You have, like, three different pocket knives, and that’s what this holiday is all about.

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WhereYat.com | July 2020

SOMETHING TO BEEF ABOUT By Kim Ranjbar

Because of COVID-19, more shoppers have begun turning to local butchers who source from nearby farms. What effect will this have on the meat-packing industry?

Doris Metropolitan

Since the early 1900s, the meat-packing industry has been fraught with problems. Plants' exploitation of workers and highly unsanitary and unsafe practices—brought to light in The Jungle, a novel by Upton Sinclair, portraying the harsh conditions and exploitation of immigrants—led to legislation that would ensure more regulations and better employee treatment. Combined with the Civil Rights Movement in the 1960s and the formation of labor unions, things have gradually improved. However, even with these advancements, slaughterhouse workers in the U.S. are three times more likely to suffer serious injury than the average worker, not to mention their increased risk for mortality from lung cancer and psychological stress and trauma. Today, the rapid spread of COVID-19 among plant workers once more shines a glaring spotlight on the squalid working conditions in the meat-packing industry. Over a dozen large processors, from Smithfield Foods to Tyson, were forced to shut down temporarily, and, combined with an increase in consumer demand due to state shutdowns and stay-at-home orders, grocery store meat was not only becoming scarcer, it was far more expensive. As the general public seems to be increasingly conscious about where their meat comes from, it should come as no surprise that, for those who can afford it, seeking out a local butcher shop that sources from smaller, nearby farms would be the natural solution. “Our sales have definitely increased at the butcher counter,” says Stephen Stryjewski, chef

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and co-owner of the Link Restaurant Group. “I think it's a combination of people wanting to help restaurants, and also, the cost of meat at the grocery store has gone up so exponentially that they would rather buy a better product at a similar price.” At his restaurant/butcher counter Cochon Butcher, the all-natural meats, specifically whole hogs, are sourced from Bill Ryles, who raises a cross-breed of Berkshire Blue hogs. Ryles’s animals are slaughtered in a small abattoir just outside Sulfur, Louisiana, which has not been subjected to the outbreak because employees have been able to maintain safe social-distancing

WhereYat.com | July 2020

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practices and other preventative measures. “They're not shoulder-to-shoulder; cutting,” says Stryjewski, speaking of a cramped practice that is causing the spread among workers in larger plants. At the time of this interview, Cochon Butcher was bringing in 25 percent of sales earned before the pandemic, but the proportion of sales from fresh meats is higher than before. “That aspect of our business is taking off, regarding fresh meats and the meats we cure in-house” says Stryjewski. At Mid-City butcher and sandwich shop Piece of Meat, owners Leighann Smith and Daniel Jackson have noticed a slight increase in sales, but due to their limited hours, it's been rough to estimate any changes. “All of our regulars came back, and then we had a big Memorial Day, but now we've kind of evened out,” says Smith. “I think a lot more people are calling and inquiring, for sure.” Smith and Jackson pride themselves on the fact that they don't buy meat from any of those “big, gross farms,” and, like the small farmers working with Stryjewski, Piece of Meat's source, Homeplace Pastures, has not been affected by COVID-19 outbreaks. “They treat their animals properly, and they treat their humans properly. They care about everything that's on their farm from the beginning,” says Smith. Led by Marshall Bartlett, Homeplace Pastures in Como, Mississippi, is committed to humane raising and treatment of their livestock, including the care and sustainability of the grazing land they inhabit. From raising both the animals and the food they eat to maintaining their own slaughterhouse, Homeplace Pastures, unlike many farms large and small, is the whole kit and kaboodle. Plus, most of the farm's employees live within a 10-mile radius, providing local residents with gainful employment and growth opportunities. The owners of Piece of Meat also didn't hesitate to point out the social and political problems that aided the rise of the meat-packing and -processing industry. “As long as America keeps depressing the lower class, the factory farms will always exist, even though they mass-produce such a low-quality product,” says Smith. Widespread poverty in combination with the typical American diet is certain to keep huge processing plants in business, regardless of the detriments to the health of their employees and of consumers. “It's probably the most egregiously broken part of the food industry in the United States,” says Jackson. Kristopher Doll, owner of Shank Charcuterie butcher shop, expressed much of the same sentiment as his colleagues at Piece of Meat. “It's just a giant issue to talk about,” Doll says. “You have to look at how much power the people have in Washington, and the reason they have power is because of their money. And the reason they have money is because of the volume. And the volume they have is dependent upon cheap labor, and with cheap labor, you get into some shady practices of illegal workers.” Doll also showed intense concern for how a demand for high volume has put farmers in the difficult position of slaughtering thousands of hogs per day. In order to meet that demand, hogs have to get up to slaughter weight as quickly as possible, which led to the widespread practice of using hormones and feed supplements, additives that have been known to cause health

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problems in consumers and, more significantly, their children. “In the 70s, when [the meat-packing industry] was running unchecked, you were getting kids in elementary school with mustaches and girls with fully developed breasts,” says Doll. At Doll's Bywater shop, his pork and beef are sourced from Eunice Superette, an animal-processing plant committed to producing high-quality meats in a safe and clean environment. In operation for over 50 years, the Cajun-country business leases pastureland to graze its animals and does not inject hormones or excessive antibiotics to encourage growth. “I have confidence that those are good animals,” says Doll. “I have been to the slaughterhouse. I've been on the kill floor. I'm completely comfortable giving the meat that I sell to my kids.” Doll has seen only an incremental increase in new customers seeking quality meats, but as a longtime local purveyor (he also helped to open Cochon Butcher and Cleaver & Co.), he knows where his sales are coming from. “The hope for a specialty butcher is that the Uptown people or more affluent people in New Orleans will come in and support you,” says Doll. “There are a lot of people for which it's just not economically feasible for them to buy anything but Walmart meat, and I get it. I get it 100 percent. Affordability and good meat are not synonymous.” Although restaurateur and co-owner of the Doris Metropolitan steakhouses, Itai Ben Eli, doesn't see any problem with the United States's love affair with meat, he, too, is concerned with safety and sanitation in the meat-packing industry. “I think maybe [the COVID outbreak] was a good opportunity for everybody to kind of look at the whole situation and think about how we can do this better,” says Eli. “How we can manage a safer environment, a more humane environment.” Two of the three Doris Metropolitan locations, in Houston and in New Orleans, offer a butcher counter featuring their specialty, dry-aged beef, from New York strip to porterhouse steaks. Because Doris never halted its to-go operations during the COVID-19 shutdowns, they saw increased sales at the butcher counter, with both a return of regulars and some new patrons as well. Although the restaurants don't necessarily work with specific farms, they do seek out meats with the best marbling, which is, by nature, very high quality. “We always try to look back and see where our meat is coming from, and it is important to us to see that it's been responsibly grown,” says Eli. “And because of the quality we seek, it's usually already a part of their system.” When talking about the mass-market meat-packing industry in the United States and all of its foibles, one must also consider the American diet. Before the Industrial Revolution (and even for some time after), meat was considered a specialty. Expensive cuts were often only found, as the main course on the tables of the rich elite, while the less expensive bits, including organ meat and other offal, were used more for flavoring dishes of vegetables, grains, and legumes eaten by the poor. Due to the industrialization of meat-processing, now everyone can afford “good” cuts of meat, but that affordability has come at a cost. “We subsidize meat,” exclaims Stryjewski. “The insane aspect of the American diet is that we don't subsidize edible vegetables.” Coming from meat purveyors, it was surprising to hear that almost all of them support the idea that, as a country, we should be consuming less meat, as opposed to more. “You don't need to eat a 12-ounce steak or a pork chop every time you sit down for a meal; it should be a treat,” says Smith. “It's like an American single portion of meat is something that could feed an entire family.” Luckily for them, they also don't really see our diet changing in the near future.

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Local Cottage-Food Industry: Black-Owned Bakeries

By Kim Ranjbar

Long before the rise of social media (or even the internet), people were making baked goods in their own kitchens for sale to the public. Though laws vary from state-to-state, Louisiana's Cottage Food Act (enacted in 2013 and amended in 2014) allows residents to sell specific, low-risk goods, such as jams, jellies, honey, candy, and baked goods, made and packaged in your own kitchen, provided that its label states that the “food was not produced in a licensed or regulated facility." People from all walks of life have jumped at the opportunity to flaunt their skills, make a little extra cash, and offer a wider variety of options to consumers who love to get their cake on. In the GNO's black community, this entrepreneurial opportunity has been overwhelmingly embraced, and, over the past decade, there has been a surge of endlessly creative and incredibly mouthwatering delights on offer. Case in point: the overwhelming popularity of Calvin R. Virgil’s Not Too Fancy Bakery (@NotTooFancyBakery) and his stellar salted caramel and candied pecan king cake since it was introduced a couple of years ago. While all the kudos to Virgil are warranted, there are many other artists in town making confections that also deserve a taste. Christian Wells Brashears, a.k.a. “Chrissy,” is a New Orleans native who studied the pastry arts at Delgado Community College. For the past six years, she has been the owner of Anointed Confections Unlimited LLC (@anointed_confections_llc), specializing in “gourmet cakes and desserts with a New Orleans flair.” Though she often fills requests for individuals, Brashears also offers to cater desserts for parties, weddings, and corporate events. One of the most popular offerings in her arsenal of swoon-worthy confections is The Ultimate Sweet Box, where customers can mix and match items like cookies-and-cream cupcakes, turtle brownies, ooeygooey cake, and white- or milk-chocolate strawberries. “I am passionate about baking. It's my therapy, my peace of mind, and my happy place,” says Brashears. “If I can make one person's day better by making them one of my sweet creations, I feel I've done what I was placed on this earth to do.” Born and raised in the 7th Ward, Erica Vernon began her cottage-food business Cake, Cake, Cakes Etc. (@CakeCakeCakes.etc) in 2014, shortly after the premature birth of her youngest child J'lani. Faced with both the emotional and financial challenges of caring for her infant (along with three other children), Vernon turned to a skill she'd always possessed. Though she began her business without any formal training, Vernon later pursued an associate’s degree in pastry arts at Delgado. Recently, due to the spread of COVID-19 and the resulting stay-at-home orders, Vernon launched a changing menu of “Quarantine Treats,” offering weekly desserts available for curbside pickup, such as her chocolate chip cheesecake brownies. “[The treats] came about during the Cake, Cake, Cakes Etc. pandemic as a way to provide a sense of

Summer Restaurant Guide | Where Y'at Magazine

Anointed Confections Unlimited LLC normalcy,” says Vernon. “I wanted to give people something to look forward to and be happy about.” Specialties to be had from Cake, Cake, Cakes Etc. include her signature “Wedding Belle” cake flavor (a baking emulsion available for purchase) and bacon praline pound cake. Chef Mallary Roots, a graduate of the John Folse Culinary Institute at Nicholls State University, founded her business Confectionery Queen (@Confectionery.Queen) in late August of 2019. Though she was born and raised in New Orleans East, the levee failures of 2005 forced her to relocate to Baton Rouge, but she moved back home three years ago. Before launching her online business, Roots worked in bakeries and restaurants all across Southern Louisiana. Normally focusing on catering parties and other events, Roots's business has recently shifted due to the pandemic. Although she's still more than willing to bake a cake or three, lately, she's been wooing patrons with her incredible hand pies, drizzled with icing and filled with flavors like apple, sweet potato, strawberry, peach, and pecan. Essence K. Thomas originally launched her Westbank baking business under the name KeKe's Sweets but changed it a bit later to honor her “biggest inspiration”: her beloved grandmother Mrs. Alice L. Porter. Now Confectionery Queen known as Ally P Sweets (@allyp_sweets), the online bakery offers cakes (including king cakes), pralines, cupcakes, old-school popcorn balls, double-fudge praline brownies, and more. “Baking was always my passion. Growing up, I enjoyed watching my grandmother and, of course, my godmother bake,” says Thomas. “I never thought that a simple hobby would turn into a successful business.” A couple of her signature creations have her customers coming back for more: what she dubs “Mini Macs”—macaroons with caramel—and “Devil Kisses,” or chocolate chip cookies with pecans and caramel. These ladies are only the tip of the proverbial pastry bag in terms of what's available in New Orleans's cottage-food industry. This local foodie, as well as many others, can't wait to discover more.

WhereYat.com | July 2020

Bar Guide

Drink Food Specials

Dancing

Live Music

Billards

5216 Table & Tap 5216 Veterans Blvd., Metairie 766-1417

You can’t get lost on the way to this Metairie favorite. The address is in the name! They offer sock-hop-style seating, pub comfort fare, and pool.

Alto (Ace Hotel) 600 Carondelet St. 900-1180

Offering fantastic drinks and a stunning view of the New Orleans skyline, Ace’s rooftop bar Alto is a sanctum of relaxation in an ever-busy concrete jungle.

Babylon Sportsbar 2917 Harvard Ave., Metairie 324-9961

Babylon Sportsbar offers up live music, entertainment, and barbecue that you just can't get anywhere else. Enjoy their drink specials and Happy Hour as well.

Backspace Bar 139 Chartres St. 322-2245

A literary-themed bar reminiscent of an English pub, Backspace features a fantastic kitchen as well as a selection of historically inspired drinks.

Bar Marilou (Maison de la Luz) Bar Marilou oozes sophistication. This bar is known for its 544 Carondelet St. combo of a glass of top-rated French wine with burrata. 814-7711 Indulge in the finer things at this Warehouse District hot spot.

Summer Restaurant Guide | Where Y'at Magazine

Bar Tonique 820 N. Rampart St. 324-6045

Stop by Bar Tonique to enjoy one of their rotating drink specials, such as a Pimm's Cup, for just $5. Tonique also offers discounts for service-industry workers.

Boot Scootin’ Rodeo 522 Bourbon St. 552-2510

Nashville country (or the Bakersfield Sound) is their thing. Their general store will be opening soon, but for now, you can grab a drink while dancing.

Bourbon St. Honky Tonk 727 Bourbon St. 523-1960

Honky-tonk country music and booze will be sure to light up your night. This bar has traditional country and blues every night of the week.

Buffa’s Bar & Restaurant 1001 Esplanade Ave. 949-0038

New Orleans is known for its party scene, and Buffa’s Lounge makes sure its doors are open until 11 p.m. They've been serving great food and drinks for almost 80 years!

Carnaval Lounge 2227 St. Claude Ave. 265-8855

The new Carnaval Lounge in the former Siberia location features great live music nightly. Come try their tasty Brazilian street food for a treat.

Copper Vine 1001 Poydras St. 208-9535

This restaurant has been praised for its food, wine, and atmosphere. Make a reservation for Copper Vine and enjoy a meal with carefully selected wine pairings.

The Country Club 634 Louisa St 945-0742

If you’re looking for one of the best bars in the city, with a heated pool and hot tub, look no further. They also have an impressive selection of wine and outstanding food.

Crossing 439 Dauphine St. 523-4517

Crossing offers specialty cocktails in an inclusive and original atmosphere. The bar is furnished with handmade Einstein lamps with metallic gold and bronze finishes.

Fulton Alley 600 Fulton St. 208-5569

Fulton Alley is a special venue whose highlight is bowling, bites, and booze. This bar combines the fun of a bowling alley with the elegance of a Prohibition-era speakeasy.

House of Blues 225 Decatur St. 310-4999

In addition to live music, this venue offers mouthwatering food and drinks. You can have just about any drink you can think of and a wide array of tasty treats.

Jimani 141 Chartres St. 524-0493

Home of the Mysterious Mixer, the Jimani is the perfect place for a late-night jaunt. Enjoy a couple drinks with some friendly ghosts at this classic slice of New Orleans.

Kerry Irish Pub 331 Decatur St. 527-5954

Kerry Irish Pub’s laid-back atmosphere is the perfect place to relax and enjoy musical talent any night of the week. Celebrate with some Guinness or Jameson at this eclectic bar.

Martine's Lounge 2347 Metairie Rd., Metairie 831-8637

This Metairie bar offers darts, poker, and a jukebox. While they can make whatever drink you can imagine, try one of their signature cocktails, such as the Spicy Passionfruit Margarita.

The Mercantile 727 S Peters St 504-309-4797

One of the best first or last stops of the night is this Warehouse District spot. Enjoy their live music every night.

Pal's Lounge 949 N. Rendon St. 488-7257

Pal’s is the perfect place to enjoy a signature cocktail or eat from one of the city’s local pop-up kitchens. This neighborhood joint has the goods to quench any thirst.

Rivershack Tavern 3449 River Rd. 834-4938

Rivershack is a spunky local favorite, situated on the banks of the Mississippi River. You can sit on one of their famous barstools crafted to look like pant legs.

Royal Bar (Royal Frenchman Hotel) 700 Frenchmen St. 619-9660

Located in the heart of the hullabaloo on Frenchmen Street, it’s one of the best places in the city to catch live music at night. And they’ve got Happy Hour every day.

Shamrock Bar & Grill 4133 S. Carrollton Ave. 301-0938

Shamrock rolls Irish pub, sports bar, and music venue into one. Come to shoot some pool, catch the game on TV, or down some drinks with a side of comfort food.

Vintage Rock Club 1007 Poydras St. 308-1305

Vintage Rock Club is a throwback club and video music experience that allows guests to rock out to their favorite classics and oldies while enjoying a drink at the same time.

WhereYat.com | July 2020

Tales from the Quarter

Po-Boy Views

By Debbie Lindsey

By Phil LaMancusa

Why We Must Support Our Restaurants

Food Fixes or Cookbook Junkie

nyone living here—in fact, anyone who has ever vacationed here— knows the economic impact that our restaurants, cafés, food markets, popups, food trucks, breweries, and bars make upon New Orleans. And this is not merely a New Orleans thing. Cities and towns nationwide are fully aware now, if not before, just how much local economies depend upon the food-and-beverage industry. Before COVID-19, the U.S. restaurant industry accounted for 15.6 million employees, and the pre-COVID-19 projected sales for 2020 were poised at $899 million. That’s a lot of income for a whole lot of people. But it ain’t gonna happen now. Of course, there are many restaurants and bars reopening right now, as I sit and write this. But these are businesses that, even on a good day, always face fear of failure. There are simply no guarantees in this industry, and now, all bets are off. And the more I learn and listen about the “between a rock and a hard place” that restaurant and bar owners are finding themselves in regarding the PPP loans, the tougher things are going to be. For the government loans to be forgiven, the employer must use 75 percent of the loan for payroll. But what if the workers are unable to return due to health concerns or simply because they cannot live on the poor hourly wages and, for now, the severely reduced tips? It takes lots of customers to make those tips occur. Waiters generally are paid $2.13 hourly, and even if the PPP loans allow compensation for lost tips, I doubt it could equal the actual tips formerly earned, prior to the pandemic shutdown. It is a fact that the industry has never been set up to take proper responsibility for its workers. But with that said, there are many good, fair-minded owners, and I, personally, have enjoyed the better part of 40-plus years working for such owners in this industry. I even enjoyed working for tips. But now, currently employed and/or unemployed food-and-beverage hospitality workers are falling between the cracks. Those very generously enhanced unemployment checks are about to run out, and if they return to work, they lose it, and if they don’t return to work, they lose it! And all our food-and-beverage business owners are at risk of going under, with or without government loans. So, what can we do to help? We, the customers, can and must spend our money—even if we, too, are struggling—to give monetary support. “But I really am falling into debt myself,” many of you might say. I get it. I truly do. So, simply drop a dollar or two into someone’s tip jar. Just walk into that neighborhood coffee shop and pop that buck in the jar and say, “Thanks, will be back to order some java when I can.” And if you are really lucky and benefitting from a surplus of income due to the stimulus checks or extra unemployment dollars, then share a percentage, large or modest, and dine (safely) in or out. If

you are not comfortable yet with being in public places, then call in a to-go order for pick-up. If totally self-quarantined, then peruse a restaurant’s website and purchase gift certificates for later use (a great way to sling some green to any small business). Many options to donate tips via virtual tip jars have been enacted for servers, bartenders, and musicians. Seriously, if everyone who has not fallen too deeply themselves into a money-less pit were to donate a buck a day or even a week to a work-for-tips employee, some small relief might be felt for them. But it takes a community to accomplish this. Why so much concern for the restaurant and hospitality industry? Because we are New Orleans; because our food has put us on the map and rewarded our town’s economy with revenue and tax dollars. If our reputation as one of the world’s beloved culinary capitals goes down in flames, we all will be burned. This pitch to save our eateries and bars does not come from some elitist foodie attitude but rather from my gut. The soul of our city is directly tied to cuisine. And it is also pay-back time. We need to say to our restaurants (bars, cafés, popups, food banks), “We’ve got your back,” in thanks for all the volunteer work they are currently doing to feed our unemployed, our first responders, and our healthcare workers. Also, when you have some extra bucks, donate to these food banks, churches, and organizers of food distributions. In a sense, these organizations (big and small) have been our surrogate restaurants and waiters during this pandemic. For many, a “dining experience” has now become waiting in line for hours to receive groceries for their family. Food is a communal thing, so let’s be that community that cares. According to the National Restaurant Association (restaurant.org): Restaurant Industry Facts at a Glance • $899 billion: Restaurant industry's projected sales in 2020. • 1 million+: Restaurant locations in the United States. • 15.6 million: Restaurant industry employees. • 1.6 million: New restaurant jobs created by 2030. • 9 in 10 restaurant managers started in entry-level positions. • 8 in 10 restaurant owners started their industry careers in entry-level positions. • 9 in 10 restaurants have fewer than 50 employees. • 7 in 10 restaurants are single-unit operations. • Restaurants employ more minority managers than any other industry. • 63% of consumers would rather spend on an experience than purchase an item. • The number of middle-class jobs ($45K$75K) in the restaurant industry grew 84% between 2010 and 2018, more than 3 times faster than in the overall economy.

Summer Restaurant Guide | Where Y'at Magazine

hen Moses came down from the mountain with those Ten Commandments to give us, he also brought other written instructions: How to Parallel Park a Feisty Camel, Festive Robes for Every Occasion, Getting the Best Seats at the Coliseum, and How to Cook in Desert Climates. I admit it: I made a deal with him and bought the cookbook (first edition). Naturally, it took some negotiating, and it was the beginning of my cookbook addiction. Over the years, my addiction has not abated: Red Sea: Fish Fry’s All-Time Hits, Leonardo da Vinci’s Last Supper Recipes, Attila the Hun’s Cooking on Horseback, What to Eat After the Mayflower Docks by John Alden, and, my favorite, The Witches’ Book of Brews by A. Salem Coven. In 1999 in New Orleans, my daughters and I opened a cookbook shop with 5,000 books, manuals, ephemeris, and tomes that I had collected. You may remember, it was called The Kitchen Witch. It grew in 20 years to 10,000 books and no daughters (they both left me for younger men). But I did gain a partner, lover, and eventual wife (Debbie). There have been a gazillion cookbooks printed in the last centuries, the earliest (besides Moses’s tablets) written by a Sicilian (yay!) around 350 BC. I never did get a copy of that one, although I have gotten some terrific, wonderful, and sometimesscary ones. I’ve had everything from cannibalism, insect cuisine, canine cooking, drag-queen brunches, aphrodisiacal, historical, futuristic, and, my favorite, Billi Gordon’s You’ve Had Worse Things in Your Mouth. I’ve had copies by Salvador Dali, Dinah Shore, Vincent Price, Liberace, Minnie Pearl, and Paul Newman. With my experience, I’ve been ready with discourse on authors such as Alice Waters, James Beard, Julia Child, Charlie Trotter, Jacques Pepin, Elizabeth David, M. F. K. Fisher, Charles Baker, Irma Rombauer, Leah Chase, Paul Prudhomme, Apicius, Darra Goldstein, Yotam Ottolenghi, Edna Lewis, Jessica B. Harris, John Folse, and Austin Leslie, to name a few. Cookbook authors range from prostitutes and poets to philosophers and prima donnas. You name it, someone has written it, and someone has written about it: vegan, vegetarian, slaughterhouse, hunting exotic animals, keto, high-carb, low-carb, martini diets, church suppers, and dumpster diving. In my years, nothing has surprised me. What makes a good cookbook—one worth buying, reading, using, putting on your overcrowded bookshelf, and/or gifting someone? Depends. Depends on you. That’s why I opened a cookbook store. That, and an excuse to buy, read, and use yet another one. It’s not their price, which can range from pittance to plenty (first editions can run into thousands of dollars). It’s not fads, which can range from How to Crochet a Cauliflower Casserole to Gutting a Tarpon and Eating Its Still-Quivering Liver.

(Alice B. Toklas has a great hashish brownie recipe.) It’s about you and what you want to cook and keep cooking. There are people who will buy a cookbook, use it once or twice, shelve it, and give it to charity the next spring. There are those who buy cookbooks and shelve them and never cook from them, reading them like novels in bed, with their hair in curlers and a box of bonbons on the bedside table. There are serious collectors who will not flinch at laying down hundreds for a first edition, first printing of The Gastronomical Me (1943; used: $400 – $600, a signed copy going for around $5,000). The Modernist Cuisine, weighing in at 46 pounds and selling for half a grand to start, is one that you wouldn’t purchase on a whim, but who can pass up that Fondue Magic for half a buck at a garage sale? I’ve pretty much had them all, and I still have a bucket list. My advantage is that I cook every day and mostly for a living wage (sometimes, a little less than a living wage). The point is that I read and use cookbooks, and I will buy cookbooks that are on subjects that may be of interest to me. Baking formulas, cheesemaking instructions, plant-based methods, spice studies, and local Creole and Cajun cooking line my shelves today at home. I have since left the retail sales cookbook business. Selling books of any kind from a brick-and-mortar location is not a way to make a living, and here’s why. First of all, if someone wants to buy a book these days, where do they go? Directly to their computer. If someone wants a recipe for pickled pig lips, where do they go? Same answer. If someone wants a cheap copy of How To Cook a Wolf? Guess. However, who can resist passing a book shop and not dropping in to browse? Maybe some fool who’s in a silly hurry, but not your average Joe, Jane, Jim, or Jacqueline. What the browsers don’t see is the expense of having a brick-and-mortar located in their path: the rent, the lights, the staffing, etc. I’ve actually had a chef come into the shop, pick up a cookbook, and say to me, “I can get this cheaper on Amazon.” Oh, my heart. I felt like saying, “Yeah, and I can pick up lettuce at the store and make my own damn salad,” but I didn’t. Rent is another thing, and rents are not going down—neither is the insurance, upkeep, and maintenance of properties, which the landlord wants to include in your lease. Those days are behind me, and I can’t say that I don’t miss the struggle, pride, and exhaustion of owning a cookbook shop. A wonderful shop spanning two decades, three landlords and locations, and a hell of a lot of work. Some people actually miss The Kitchen Witch. Me? I’m on the trail of making vegan croissants, Indian samosas, and a Korean spice mixture called yangnyeomjang (it’s in a book I just bought). Bon appétit.

Featuring Born Bayou Bartender Competition Winner

BRANSON MCGEE

LUNA Bar & Grill

“

Rum has always been the spirit of choice for me. When I tried

Bayou Rum for the first time,

”

I knew it was a match made in heaven for my taste buds.

PISTOLD BRIDGE SUNSET

1 oz Bayou® Reserve Rum Dash of Ground Cinnamom, Nutmeg & Clove 1 oz Crème of Coconut 4 oz Pineapple Juice 1/2 oz Gator Bite™ Satsuma Combine ingredients above in a shaker and shake vigorously. Strain over ice into a Rocks glass and garnish with a dash of grated nutmeg.

To read Branson’s full story Visit GoOut365.com or find us on Facebook or Instagram @GoOut365.

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WhereYat.com | July 2020

Pat Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Brienâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Bar 718 St. Peter www.patobriens.com (504) 525-4823

@patobriensbar @patobriens

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