6 Cat[fish] Got Your Tongue? Innovative Dishes for 9 Lives
22 On the Breadlines: Leidenheimer Baking Celebrates its 125th Anniversary
26 Potluck of the Irish: Celebrating St. Patty’s Day with Irish Fare
28 ISO Guiness in NOLA
36 One for the Road Trip: Roadside Attractions in Louisiana
42 How Does Your Garden Grow? Planting Spring Sprouts
If you’re hungry for seafood then this Spring Restaurant Guide will fill you up! Pick a spot that you have yet to visit and support a local restaurant.
Lent means Friday fish fries, and fried catfish is a favorite. Creative Director Robert Witkowski shares great spots all over the region for unique catfish dishes that are worth the trip.
If you do venture out for catfish, be sure to visit one of Louisiana’s fantastic roadside attractions. Kathy Bradshaw dishes out fantastic finds of everything from giant frogs to catfish to strawberries and more!
While we can’t parade to celebrate St. Patrick’s Day, there are still responsible ways to salute leprechauns. This issue features great things to eat and drink on March 17th to hopefully receive a little luck of the Irish. Sláinte!
March 2021 Extras
Publisher/Editor-in-Chief: Josh Danzig
Creative Director: Robert Witkowski
Executive Editor: Burke Bischoff
Movie Editors: David Vicari, Fritz Esker
Contributing Writers: Kathy Bradshaw, Phil LaMancusa, Debbie Lindsey, Kim Ranjbar, Burke Bischoff, Julie Mitchell, Greg Roques, Eliana Blum, Leigh Wright, Steve Melendez, Michelle Nicholson, Sabrina Stone, Kimmie Tubre, Emily Hingle
Cover Photo: Spahr's Seafood by Romney Caruso. From left, GM Donald Spahr; his grandfather and founder, Bill Spahr; and Spahr's Executive Chef, Ryan Gaudet by the restaurant's landmark giant catfish and bobber, a popular Louisiana roadside attraction.
Director of Sales: Stephen Romero
Photographers and Designers: Gus Escanelle, Kimmie Tubre, Emily Hingle, Robert Witkowski, K athy Bradshaw, Genni Nicholson
Interns: Laurel Shimasaski, Lucia Hughes, Kala Hathorn, Adrienne Snider, Genni Nicholson, Kelie Arevalo, Akadya Thompson, Valeria Vivas
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“The catfish is plenty good enough fish for anyone,” Mark Twain observed. And while the New England humorist was not known as a culinary expert, even his nom de plume persona as a Southern gentleman would be impressed with how Louisiana cooks are creating dishes to make the state’s whiskered seafood good enough for everyone.
is living nine lives as area chefs create innovative dishes that surprise and delight.Fish-of-the-Day Speacial from Spahr's Seafood
Decades after Cajun cook Justin Wilson perfected fried fillets, Josie Middendorf fried them thinner than most thought possible, and Chef Paul Prudhomme introduced blackening fish to the world, Louisiana eateries are elevating the tasty bottom-feeders to
Considering their long tradition of serving Cajun country seafood, it’s not surprising to find catfish on the menu at Chicken On The Bayou & Boudin Shop in Atchafalaya Basin in Breaux Bridge. Despite the name, the restaurant and deli near America’s largest river swamp offers way more than just chicken and boudin, including its signature Ile de Capri dish. The specialty includes an oversized fillet of fried or grilled catfish, topped with Louisiana crawfish étouffée, on a bed of rice, served with a side of potato salad and a biscuit. For almost 30 years now, Chicken On The Bayou’s locale off I-10 exit 115 presents casual truckstop dining at its best. Fun and affordable since its opening in 1992, this restaurant sources locally from Guidry’s
Catfish, and chef-owner Nabih Qaisieh doesn’t skimp on flavor.
Along Bayou Black in downtown Houma, A-Bear’s Café keeps the locals’ feet stomping with the live music of Acadiana in a traditional roadhouse setting. The Cajun roots are exposed by the restaurant’s name, which is an Americanization of Hebert, the family who owns it. Visitors—of which there are few—are welcomed as enthusiastically as the locals who pack the place. Their signature Catfish Abear Platter—a meal comprised of multiple fresh pond catfish fillets dripping with A-Bear’s savory yellow crab sauce—is worth navigating any crowd. While there, you might meet a gentleman, the self-proclaimed Mayor of A-Bear’s, complete with official badge, making his rounds welcoming patrons. Following closely behind him is owner Jane Hebert, making sure that the food is good and that the “mayor” isn’t distracting you from your meal too much. If adding two down-home sides to the meal isn’t too much food to make you forgo eating a slice of homemade pie, the dish is offered as an all-you-caneat entrée on Friday evenings, ensuring that any dessert is impossible.
From Highway 90 in Des Allemands, a massive 15-foot catfish seems to be
next to Spahr’s Seafood Restaurant This sculpture was salvaged from Florida after Hurricane Katrina and installed “next to its natural habitat.” It is a testament to how founder Bill Spahr, 93, set a new standard with his signature Catfish Chips when he opened his restaurant in the winter of 1967-68.
“There were two guys eating, and one complained he had six pieces of catfish, and his buddy had seven,” Spahr recounts. “I explained how we did it by the weight, not the number, but he insisted on getting another to be even. Well, I was not happy
Spahr’s commitment of “creating jobs with a passion for culinary excellence.” His creativity with local ingredients in the kitchen allows him to expand the traditional catfish dishes Spahr’s is famous for in exciting ways, and his blackened catfish “Fish-of-the-Day” special is an impressive example of that.
The entrée includes a five- to sevenounce catfish fillet that is blackened with olive oil and served over grilled asparagus, then topped with a lemoncream sauce and fresh local crab-claw meat. Given the size of the fillet needed, the special mostly makes the menu board in the summer when the catfish are most active. Because the fish is so fresh, Gaudet advises to call ahead, because they never know when it will be offered.
In Abita Springs, north of Lake Pontchartrain, Abita Beer is best paired with Louisiana catfish at the Abita Brew Pub when presenting their Pecan Crusted Catfish. The eatery is on the site of the original brewery at the center of its namesake town. Martine and Vula Essaied had the vision to transform it into a restaurant in 1986 when Abita expanded its brewing facility to its current, larger building in Covington.
The relaxed hotspot captures a downhome catfish-shack, roadhouse atmosphere with a casual, yet upscale, dining ambiance—often with live music.
and told my wife we were going to cut them up so small that no one could count all of them again, and there’s been no more trouble after that.” Proud of his creation, Spahr gently insists the tender bites should be eaten “using both cocktail and tartar sauces—one offsets the other.”
Although he still made the gumbo up until 2020, Spahr has since passed operations to his grandson, Donald Spahr, who expanded the name into three additional eateries. Bill Spahr’s daughter (and Donald’s aunt), Thelezia “Tilly” Folse, is now in charge of all things involving the “wild-caught, local catfish” sourced for the restaurants. The food preparation, however, is under the skilled eye of Chef Ryan Gaudet, ever mindful of his responsibility to protect Spahr’s 55-year legacy.
Joining the family restaurant in 2007 and elevated to executive chef in 2013, Gaudet now oversees all four restaurants throughout the region. But while he is respectful of Spahr’s reputation, the Nicholls State University culinary grad is also dedicated to Donald
"Vula created the dish long before I got here," Terry Whitehead, Abita Brew Pub's head chef for 20 years, laughs. The entrée calls for adding a honey pecan sauce to the dish's oversized catfish fillet, which is deep fried in a pecan coating, and served with smashed potatoes and sautéed seasonal vegetables.
"The dish is sweet, I like it with the Abita Andygator," Whitehead says. "It's got a little kick to it.”
On Lake Pontchartrain’s south shore, The Blue Crab Restaurant & Oyster Bar ups the catfish ante in New Orleans cuisine, but quietly and for those in the know. Their menu offers a whole stuffed flounder, but a whole grilled catfish fillet can be an off-the-menu switch for those preferring a tastier non-bone option.
“It’s not on the menu exactly, but anyone can get it,” manager Erik Neumann says. He explains that Blue Crab considers the dish one of their New Orleans classics.
“The stuffing is made with local crab meat combined with all the classics, including the Holy Trinity of celery, peppers, and onions.” Committed to local purveyors, Neumann affirms the restaurant’s commitment to supporting the local Louisiana purveyors, especially with fresh catfish every day but Sunday.
On this two-level restaurant’s “Downstairs Menu,” catfish may be used in the fish tacos, if requested. They’re served as a pair, made with white tortillas and topped with summer slaw and jalapeno avocado cream, and this flavorful fish substitution is a well-known secret among locals.
Approximately 25 years ago, Louisiana was one of the nation’s top four catfishproducing states. The industry employed 12,000 people and contributed more than $3.5 billion to these states’ economies, according to the Catfish Institute.
Today, catfish is the fifth most popular fish in the nation, with per-capita consumption averaging just less than a pound a year. With channel catfish the most plentiful, farmers attribute a more abundant supply to finally allow competitive pricing, compared to seafood such as cod and halibut.
Catfish’s popularity remains stubbornly among the top 10 fish consumed in the U.S., according to industry experts, including the National Fisheries Institute. Catfish is typically more flavorful than saltwater options, so new recipes can be challenging to create.
Innovative chefs are delighting in discovering new ways to complement this fish’s unusual flavor in their dishes.
Notably, Blue Giant Chinese in the Lower Garden District puts a nouveau spin on fish with their innovative fusion concoction: salt and pepper catfish. The former Cochon cooks are committed to using the “finest and best-tasting fish.” Therefore, chef-owners Bill Jones and Richard Horner named their restaurant in honor of the blue catfish. The monstrous “blue cat” is the largest species of North American catfish, which is also found
swimming in Chinese waters.
“It’s all connected,” Louisiana native Jones says. “Catfish is ubiquitous to the American South, but it’s also more authentic in Chinese cooking.” He notes that catfish are not only prevalent in Chinese art and sculpture, but also in their cuisine. But “in America, catfish is rarely used in Chinese restaurants,” he adds.
The elegant interior, with gleaming surfaces and sleek lines, is as far a cry from the bayou-born catfish shacks as the garden patio is from the ornate gardens and temples of China. But the owners proudly refuse imitation on either front. “It’s our goal to respect the heritage of Chinese cuisine, while remaining passionate about the flavor-packed dishes we love to cook.”
Uptown on Magazine Street, Mahoney’s Original PoBoys & Seafood presents upscale but casual fare in a converted double. Playful in its character, the restaurant boasts that it’s “loaded with fresh Louisiana seafood and local classics that deliver an authentic taste of New Orleans in every bite,” and they deliver on that promise. Diners reflexively loosened their belts as the server described the buttery cream sauce with Gulf shrimp, crawfish, and blue crabmeat that generously tops their Catfish Pontchartrain, served over Louisiana popcorn rice, along with braised collard greens and a French bread sub loaded with crawfish étouffée. This savory dish is newly reintroduced to the menu for spring and summer.
Catfish are known to be especially active in the spring, and with Lenten non-meat dishes sure to increase demand, prepare your taste buds for the culinary catfish cascade throughout the area as chefs evolve this Louisiana staple into more meals not to be missed.
Bayou Hot Wings offers delicious chicken wings made from scratch with your choice of sauce or flavor. The menu varies from Southern fried foods, sandwiches, salads, wraps, and many options for sides. Enter the “Bayou Beast Challenge” and eat 10 extra spicy wings in under five minutes for the chance to win a free t-shirt. 6221 S. Claiborne Ave., 504-865-9464, bayouhotwings.com
Crescent City Steaks has been serving USDA prime beef for more than 87 years. The restaurant is known for its signature “New Orleans style” of cooking steaks, which involves sizzling the meat in butter. Some delicious steak cuts to choose from include filet wrapped in bacon, T-bone, and cowboy ribeye. 1001 N. Broad St., 504821-3271, crescentcitysteaks.com
Daisy Dukes serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner all day to satisfy any and all of your food cravings. Daisy Dukes dishes out Southern comfort food with great Southern hospitality. It prides itself on its award winning Cajun Bloody Mary. You can find Daisy Dukes all over the Greater New Orleans area. Multiple locations, daisydukesrestaurant.com
Gattuso’s is a small neighborhood restaurant that has a beautifully landscaped patio for outdoor dining. It’s the perfect place to enjoy live music with friends and family while sharing a bite to eat. Gattuso’s has a daily happy hour from 2 p.m. - 6 p.m. with over 14 different beers on tap. 435 Huey P Long Ave., Gretna, 504-368-1114, gattusos.net
Jimmy J’s Cafe is a hidden gem located right in the French Quarter. Its dishes are packed with flavor and are only made with fresh ingredients. In addition to its regular menu, Jimmy J’s offers special chef creations and new item promotions weekly. Serving breakfast all day, some favorites include the blueberry brandy glazed french toast and smoked salmon bagel. 115 Chartres St., 504-309-9360, jimmyjscafe.com
Lakeview Harbor has a very extensive menu that you can choose from. Whether you are in the mood for breakfast, burgers, pizza, steak, seafood, or pasta, you will absolutely not leave without a full stomach. Lakeview Harbor also has specialty items like the Surf and Turf Burger and the Margherita Chicken Sandwich. 8550 Pontchartrain Blvd., 504-486-4887, lakeviewharbor.us
Legacy Kitchen’s Craft Tavern has an artistic ambience for customers to dine indoors or out on the patio. It has a wonderful selection of craft beers for happy hour, which can be enjoyed with small plates, soups, and salads. You can’t go wrong with ordering the chicken and waffles for breakfast or raw, charbroiled, or fried oysters. 700 Tchoupitoulas St., 504-613-2350, legacykitchen.com
Legacy Kitchen’s Steak & Chop is the perfect place to go to in Gretna. While you can’t go wrong ordering a steak, be sure to also consider the crawfish cornbread, salmon, and mac and cheese. Just as the name suggests, the food, service, and ambiance will have a lasting legacy on your dining experience. 91 Westbank Expy., Gretna, 504-513-2606, legacykitchen.com
Manning’s Sports Bar & Grill located in the Warehouse district is the perfect spot to catch all the games. Two 13-ft mega screens, 30+ TVs, courtyard game-viewing, 24 draft beers, plus award winning burgers & wings – is why Manning’s is NOLA’s game viewing destination. 519 Fulton St., 504593-8118, caesars.com
Green Tea is a Chinese restaurant that originated in New York City before moving to New Orleans in 2008. The menu is extensive with plenty of lo mein, moo shu, and soups to choose from. Check out the family dinner specials, which can feed anywhere from two to nine people at different set prices. 3001 Napoleon Ave., 504-899-8005, greenteanola.com
MISA features beautiful outdoor seating with heaters and a covered patio right on Magazine Street. A great date spot, some of MISA’s dishes include Moroccan Fish and Royal Indian Lambshank Stew. MISA also features a wonderful brunch menu that includes fantastic cocktails and their delicious shakshouka. 4734 Magazine St., 504-510-2791, misanola.com
New Orleans Vampire Cafe has a menu, created by Chef Chris Dunn, that vampires would happily serve to their mortal guests. The very mysterious dining experience includes the opportunity to have a tea leaf reading or meet with a tarot reader. The Vampire Cafe has breakfast, lunch, and dinner, and you can also come in for bottomless mimosa brunches on Saturdays or Sundays. 801 Royal St., 504-5810801, nolavampirecafe.com
Spudly’s Super Spuds is home to the famous “meal in a baked potato.” You can choose from over 18 different types of baked potatoes, ranging in size from spud skins to super spuds. Serving baked potatoes for over 35 years, Spudly’s has expanded its menu to soups, salads, sandwiches, and burgers. 2609 Harvard St., Metairie, 504-455-3250, spudlys.com
The Steakhouse at Harrah’s is a traditional steakhouse reinvented; located in New Orleans’ favorite casino. The sleek ambiance sets the mood for sophisticated cocktails and delicious wine. BBQ shrimp or fried oyster deviled eggs are popular starters. Plan to indulge by adding a lobster tail to your steak or another “surf” option. To-go ordering is available. 8 Canal St., 504-533-6111, caesars.com
Mikimoto is a locally owned restaurant that has been serving authentic Japanese cuisine since 1999. Whether you are craving sushi, noodles, or fried rice, Mikimoto’s menu has it all. It even has a drive-thru pick-up window to quickly grab your online orders (subject to change due to COVID-19). 3301 S. Carrollton Ave., 504-488-1881, mikimotosushi.com
5216 Table & Tap is a sports bar with tons of TVs, a dance floor, and a friendly staff. Enjoy a great selection of craft cocktails, beer, and wine to pair with mouth-watering burgers. It has the perfect pub fare atmosphere to enjoy a sports game with friends or family, or just to grab a bite to eat. 5216 Veterans Blvd., Metairie, 504-766-1417, 5216tableandtap.com
The Jimani has been New Orleans’s favorite sports bar for over 40 years. It has multiple TVs, 100 different types of beer, a jukebox, and food served all through the night. The bar is located in the same space as the former UpStairs Lounge, which was the site of an arson attack against New Orleans’s LGBT community in 1973 that claimed the lives of 32 people. 141 Chartres St., 504-524-0493, thejimani.com
Rivershack Tavern is a combination of a sports bar, live music hub on Fridays, and restaurant right on the Mississippi River. It is the “home of the tacky ashtray,” which began when the bar traded drinks for ashtrays brought in by customers. Menu items include an alligator po-boy, the Club Samich, and boiled crawfish on Wednesday, Friday, and Sundays. 3449 River Rd., Jefferson, 504-834-4938, rivershacktavern.com
Stumpy’s Hatchet House is a unique bar venue that offers the newest up and coming social activity, axe-throwing. You can host parties and other events while playing fun axe-throwing games that will burn calories and improve your coordination. Stumpy’s follows strict COVID-19 protocols and is a super spot for a date night. 1200 Poydras St., 504-577-2937, stumpyshh.com
Bearcat Cafe allows you to indulge in breakfast or lunch with a variety gluten free, vegan, paleo, and vegetarian options. In addition to the food, Bearcat also has coffee from Equator Coffee Co., loose-leaf teas, and over 20 delicious house-made bottled beverages. Visit the location in Uptown or the Central Business District for a tasty meal. Multiple locations, bearcatcafe.com
Café Amelie is named after the mother of Princess Alice, the first American Princess of Monaco. This cafe provides a romantic atmosphere for guests to enjoy either for brunch or dinner. Relax and enjoy the lamb sirloin, ahi tuna, or country poutine, with some chocolate melting cake for dessert. 912 Royal St., 504-412-8965, cafeamelie.com
Caffe Caffe is an excellent choice for a quick breakfast or lunch to start your day. The cafe is the perfect place to grab some coffee, wraps, and a salad. More than just delicious food, Caffe Caffe has a friendly environment for any kind of meeting or social gathering. Multiple locations, caffecaffe.com
Carmo is a cafe and bar that serves cuisine inspired from all around the world. Its mission is to be sustainable by reducing energy and resource usage and creating partnerships with like-minded groups. Carmo’s curries perfectly represent the diverse menu and fresh ingredients used in its cooking. If you are on the go, order one of Carmo’s discounted boxed meals.
527 Julia St., 504-875-4132, cafecarmo.com
The Vintage is focused on serving more than just a meal. It’s also a social setting for you to meet a friend or enjoy some time alone. The cozy dining atmosphere, inside and outside, gives people a chance to enjoy coffee, beignets, wines, bubbles, and quick bites. Vintage also offers different choices in flatbread and pressed sandwiches.
3121 Magazine St., 504-324-7144, thevintagenola.com
Vyoone’s presents upscale French cuisine in the Warehouse District. It was founded by Vyoone Segue Lewis, a dedicated member of the New Orleans community who has served on the board of directors for several medical organizations. Visit Vyoone’s for brunch, dinner, or happy hour, and dine in its secluded courtyard. 412 Girod St., 504-518-6007, vyoone.com
Elle-J’s Lakeview serves hearty Italian dishes, as well as seafood and steak. Enjoy mushrooms stuffed with a Louisiana blue crab meat, eggplant parmesan, or the fresh catch of the day. After you clear your plate, enjoy the tiramisu or chocolate and vanilla tartufo off the dessert menu. Join Elle-J’s for happy hour Tuesday through Friday from 3 p.m. to 6 p.m. 900 Harrison Ave., 504-459-2262, ellejslakeview.com
Josephine Estelle is located in the Ace Hotel right in the Warehouse District. Its dishes are prepared by James Beard Award-nominated chefs Michael Hudman and Andy Ticer. In 2020, Josephine Estelle won the award of excellence for its Italian cuisine with a hint of Southern flavor. You can’t go wrong ordering any of the pasta dishes, specifically the canestri cacio e pepe. 600 Carondelet St., 504-9303070, josephineestelle.com
Mosca’s Restaurant has been Westwego’s favorite Italian spot for over 60 years. All of Mosca’s made from scratch dishes are served family-style and al la carte. Spaghetti and meatballs, chicken cacciatore, and filet mignon are just a few of the items you can enjoy at this charming spot. 4137 US-90 W., Westwego, 504436-8950, moscasrestaurant.com
Nor Joe Import Co. prides itself on selling fine Italian imports to not only Metairie, but also the Greater New Orleans Area. Along with wine, cheese, and baked goods, Nor Joe’s also serves a number of different freshly made lunch items like sandwiches, stuffed artichokes, and cannolis. 505 Frisco Ave., Metairie, 504-833-9240, facebook.com/norjoeimport
Nephew’s Ristorante opened as a tribute to chef and owner Frank Catalanotto’s family and their long history of providing New Orleans with Sicilian and Italian Creole cuisine. Some signature entrees include veal parmigiana, grilled duck breast, and braised rabbit with tomatoes. You can also get soft shell crab and frog legs a la carte. 4445 W. Metairie Ave., Metairie, 504533-9998, nephewsristorante.com
Pascal’s Manale has been thriving in New Orleans for over 100 years. Not only that, Pascal’s is also the originator of the NOLA famous BBQ shrimp dish, which was first made in the 1950s. The restaurant is also famous for its raw oyster bar and Italian dishes like veal marsala, frutta del mare, and chicken bordelaise. 1838 Napoleon Ave., 504-895-4877, pascalsmanale.com
Red Gravy is an Italian bistro that has been serving brunch for the past 10 years, but now you can come in for dinner to try handmade pasta, ravioli, lasagna, and gnocchi. Red Gravy created an intimate dining atmosphere to “mangiere, ridere, amare,” which means eat, laugh, love. The courtyard has umbrellas and heaters so you can enjoy a meal in any type of weather. 4206 Magazine St., 504-5618844, redgravycafe.com
Tavolino Pizza and Lounge is located in Old Algiers. It serves crispy thin crusts with unconventional specialty pizzas such as a funghi pizza with mushroom fonduta sauce, fresh mushrooms, fontina cheese, truffle oil, and arugula. There is even a back bar lounge that is the perfect place to have a romantic date without the kids. 141 Delaronde St., 504-605-3365, instagram.com/tavolinonola
Venezia Restaurant has been serving Italian dishes with New Orleans flare since 1957. Venezia is dedicated to providing the uppermost serving and dining experience to all guests. Join Venezia for daily specials and hand tossed pizzas. You will be leaving your dinner or lunch with a clear plate and a happy belly. 134 N. Carrollton Ave., 504-488-7991, venezianeworleans.net
Carreta’s Grill treats all guests like family while providing fresh authentic Mexican cuisine at an affordable price. The menu includes burritos, enchiladas, quesadillas, wraps, and salads. Carreta’s world famous margaritas come with your choice of tequila and flavor in a size small, medium, or large. Multiple Locations, carretasgrillrestaurant.com
Lebanon’s Cafe has earned the reputation as a top Middle Eastern dining spot in New Orleans. The indoor dining space gives an authentic atmosphere with intricate hand painted murals on the wall. Lebanon’s also has patio dining and allows BYOB, so bring your favorite beer or wine to enjoy with your creamy hummus or crispy falafel. 1500 S. Carrollton Ave., 504-862-6200, lebanonscafe.com
Tal’s Hummus is a quick service restaurant offering healthy Isreali inspired food made from the freshest ingredients. You can order pita wraps, hummus, salads, kabobs, or falafel with plenty of vegan and vegetarian options. Located uptown, enjoy a tasty meal at Tal’s Hummus for a dine-in or dine-out experience. 4800 Magazine St., 504-267-7357, ordertalsonline.com
Annunciation Restaurant, located on Annunciation Street, is mostly known for its assortment of contemporary and classic Creole dishes. Order anything from fried oysters and gumbo to grilled pompano and shrimp etouffee. The restaurant is also serving a special pan seared gulf fish dish each Friday during Lent. 1016 Annunciation St., 504-568-0245, annunciationrestaurant.com
Cafe 615 Home of Da Wabbit serves New Orleans inspired cuisine ranging from sandwiches to seafood platters. They also can cater your next crawfish boil! Founded in 1948, Cafe 615 was a hit for its iconic Bugs Bunny LED sign, which still stands today. Cafe 615’s bar serves specialty cocktails with creative Bugs Bunny names and fresh ingredients. 615 Kepler St., Gretna, 504-365-1225, cafe615.com
Chef Ron’s Gumbo Stop opened in 2012 when Ron Iafrate followed his dreams of opening his very own restaurant. The stop is located in a small strip mall on Causeway Boulevard that serves some of the best Southern comfort food. While the menu and specials may change, the awardwinning gumbo is always available. 2309 N. Causeway Blvd., Metairie, 504-8352022, gumbostop.com
Copeland’s prides itself on catering to local appetites with made from scratch New Orleans classics for over 36 years. The menu includes favorites like Cajun Gumbo Ya Ya, Butterflied Shrimp Creole, and the Copeland Burger with special Tiger Sauce. As well as healthy dishes like Crab & Avocado Stack or Garden Chicken. Multiple locations, copelandsofneworleans.com
Evangeline Restaurant offers some of the freshest Cajun cuisine in the French Quarter. Some of the dishes patrons can choose from, include Acadia Crawfish and Grits, Pasta Evangeline, and a fried catfish and alligator platter. A selection of local craft beers are also available. 329 Decatur St., 504-373-4852, evangelineneworleans.com
Mandina’s has been combining homestyle seafood and Italian cooking since 1932. Some items on the menu have been staples of the restaurant for over 80 years. Mandina’s has a piece of New Orleans history to its food and an ambience that you can’t find at a lot of other places. 3800 Canal St., 504-482-9179, mandinasrestaurant.com
New Orleans Creole Cookery serves many Creole favorites including Gumbo YaYa, charbroiled oysters, jambalaya, pecancrusted redfish, and Crab Cake Napoleon. Enjoy craft cocktails like the New Orleans Hurricanes, which range from a category one to a category five with different types of rum. 508 Toulouse St., 504-5249632, neworleanscreolecookery.com
Neyow’s Creole Cafe is a casual spot to enjoy traditional Creole and Southern fried cooking. There are weekly specials with different meals offered everyday. Popular items on the menu include Shrimp Creole, chargrilled oysters, crab claws, and crawfish balls. Neyow’s is dedicated to providing amazing food in a hospitable environment. 3332 Bienville St., 504827-5474, neyows.com
Orleans Grapevine Wine Bar & Bistro is home to one of the largest wine selections in the French Quarter. The building that houses Grapevine was established in 1808 and was home to the first Creole restaurant in New Orleans. The bistro has delicious entreés, as well as petit fare like a cheese board and boudin sausage links. 720 Orleans St., 504-523-1930, orleansgrapevine.com
Please-U-Restaurant is a longestablished diner with booth and counter seating. It’s famously known for serving breakfast all day with omelettes, French toast, and chicken and waffles. If breakfast food isn’t your thing, Please-U has hot lunches with well-priced seafood po boys. Please-U is all about making sure you leave happy and full. 1751 St. Charles Ave., 504-525-9131, pleaseunola.com
Poppa’s Seafood & Deli has no seating, but your mouth will be watering from the smell of your to-go box. The deli might be small, but the food is packed with flavor. Stop by Poppa’s for any of your Southern food cravings. Open from 7:30 a.m. to 7 p.m., Monday through Saturday. 3311 N. Galvez St., 504-947-3373, facebook. com/Poppas-Seafood-Deli
Short Stop Po Boy offers over 30 different types of po-boys. Customize it by choosing your choice of bread and additional toppings or condiments. Short Stop is known for having some of the best gumbo in the New Orleans area. You can also order sandwich trays for your upcoming event, which can be picked up via the stop’s drive-through window. 119 Transcontinental Dr., Metairie, 504-885-4572, shortstoppoboysno.com
Willie Mae’s Scotch House has won the title of “America’s Best Fried Chicken” by the Food Network. Willie Mae’s has perfected its fried chicken recipe by making it buttery, flakey, and crispy all in one bite. Visit Willie Mae’s second location in the Pythian Market, where the fried chicken can be enjoyed with classic Southern sides such as corn bread, red beans and rice, and mac and cheese. Multiple locations, williemaesnola.com
Bon Temps Boulet’s Seafood is filled with a passion for food that makes their boiled seafood, smoked BBQ, and fall apart po-boys something special. Crawfish is its specialty; juicy, flavorful, and spiced to clean your sinuses without burning your tongue, but smoked fried wings, wagyu brisket, and a creative but classic menu have something for everyone.
4701 Airline Dr., Metairie, 504-885-5003, facebook.com/BonTempsBoulets
Briquette is a classy restaurant serving contemporary coastal cuisine. There is an 18-foot long display of fresh salmon, Louisiana redfish, halibut, snapper, and other whole fish over ice. The open floor plan, community tables, and bar create a friendly and spacious dining experience. Attire is business casual so dress appropriately and enjoy Briquette’s freshly prepared seafood. 701 S. Peters St., 504-302-7496, briquette-nola.com
Casamento’s was founded by Joe Casamento, an Italian immigrant, back in 1919. The restaurant is a tribute to Southern cuisine and Louisiana oysters. Beyond oysters, Casamento’s serves fresh gumbo, the Big Easy platter, and fried soft shell crab. Celebrities such as Peyton Manning, Guy Fieri, and Bradley Cooper have all eaten there and you should too. 4330 Magazine St., 504-895-9761, casamentosrestaurant.com
Charlie’s Restaurant and Catering has been serving St. Bernard Parish since 1992. With the “largest menu in St. Bernard Parish,” choose from over 300 dishes like breakfast items, steaks, pastas, seafood platters, stuffed potatoes, and much, much more. Charlie’s also caters for any occasion you might have. 6129 E. St. Bernard Hwy., Violet, 504-682-9057, facebook. com/Charlies-Restaurant-Catering
The Galley Seafood got its start in 1977 by serving soft shell crab po-boys at the Jazz and Heritage Festival. Known for some of the best boiled seafood in town, other items include shrimp and grits, crawfish etouffee, and blackened or grilled redfish. Make sure to grab a cocktail and enjoy live concert DVDs shown nightly for dinner and a show. 2535 Metairie Rd., Metairie, 504-832-0955, thegalleyseafood.net
Jazzy Pete’s is located in Uptown and serves some of the best seafood, pasta, and po boys around. Join Jazzy Pete’s for happy hour and get $5 drinks and discounts on oysters and appetizers. The Saltwater Cocktail is the latest feature with vodka, grapefruit, lime, peppercorn syrup, basil pink, and pamplemousse liqueur. 8201 Oak St., 504-345-2490, jazzypetes.com
Seaworthy is set in a Creole cottage that was built in 1832 and retains a rustic, cozy atmosphere. Seaworthy offers tons of different oysters from the East, West, and Gulf Coasts, as well as locally caught fish. The Southern hospitality and chic atmosphere makes for the perfect date night or a fun evening out with friends.
630 Carondelet St., 504-930-3071, seaworthynola.com
Tito’s Ceviche & Pisco combines Peruvian and Asian cuisine with seafood for delectable starters and entreés. Enjoy bottomless mimosas and ceviche at brunch or tiraditos and platos del mar for dinner. The service, staff, courtyard dining, and authentic cuisine will leave you dreaming about returning again and again.
5015 Magazine St., 504-267-7612, titocevichepisco.com
beyond Frankie & Johnny's is one of the New Orleans area restaurants that rely on Leidenheimer bread to complete their menu, especially their po-boys.
Among the plethora of food items that are staples of New Orleans cuisine, one of the simplest is the humble loaf of French bread. From holding po-boys together to being dipped in gumbo, French bread is a tasty reminder of the city’s rich French heritage. So, who would have thought that a German bakery from the late 1800s would be the leading supplier of New Orleans’s French bread to this day? Well, Leidenheimer has been doing just that for 125 years.
Located at 1501 Simon Bolivar Ave., Leidenheimer Baking Company provides fresh French bread, muffuletta bread, and hamburger buns to not only a number of local establishments such as Dorignac’s, Commander’s Palace, and Galatoire’s, but also ships to other states in the country. President and current owner of Leidenheimer, Robert J. Whann IV (also known as Sandy), described how the original founder, George Leidenheimer, found his way from Deidesheim, Germany, to New Orleans.
where the Southern Food and Beverage Museum is now, and, in fact, right next to that location is where he had the stables for his horses and mules.”
According to Whann, it was decided that one of the city’s earliest refrigerated produce facilities would be established where Leidenheimer kept his stables. This, in turn, forced him to move his bakery to the corner of Simon Bolivar and Martin Luther King, where it has remained since 1904. Whann also detailed how Leidenheimer, proud of his Germanic roots, first sold traditional German breads, but eventually moved to making the French bread that the bakery’s known for.
“He left Deidesheim, we’re fairly sure, to get out of military service during the Franco-Prussian War,” Whann said. “He had cousins in New Orleans at that time who were bakers, and he came here to work for them. He worked for them for a short period of time, and then he started his own company in 1896: Leidenheimer Baking Company. The first location was on Dryades Street, near
“He was a good businessman, and he pivoted when saw the demand in the market shifting,” Whann said. “You had Italian bakeries, you had German bakeries, you had French bakeries. And these bakeries were basically producing a product line
that they were familiar with from the old country. And typically, their customers were also from that same heritage. Well, I think Leidenheimer realized that just selling to the German market was not going to allow him to continue to expand his business, and he wanted products other than the sort of dark, heavy, brown breads.”
Whann stressed how through 125 years of existence, Leidenheimer’s legacy is firmly built on family. After George Leidenheimer’s death, his daughter’s husband, Robert J. Whann Jr., took over the business, followed by their oldest son, Robert J. Whann III, in the 1970s, and currently, Sandy Whann. Whann’s son, daughter, sister, and brother-in-law all also hold positions in the company.
“I consider the family legacy to be
something that’s been a motivating force for me for my 35 years with the bakery,” Whann said. “This business and the history of my family and the city of New Orleans are intrinsically linked, and it’s something that I’ve taken great pride in my entire life. And I know it’s something that my son and daughter take great pride in, as well as my sister. So, of course, it’s something that I want to preserve for not only the fifth generation, but hopefully the sixth and seventh.”
After surviving the Spanish flu, both world wars, and the Great Depression, Whann said that the COVID-19 pandemic, despite how drastically it’s changed people’s lives, is just another obstacle for both Leidenheimer Baking Company and the city of New Orleans to power through.
“We have a loyal employee base who have been extremely supportive since the very beginning of Covid,” Whann said. “So many of them are in uncharted territory, with reduced hours of operation and reduced capacity based on what phase we’re in at any given month. We continue to try and let them know that we’re there for them. We try to let our employees know that we’re there for them. My goal is to come out of this on the other side a healthy and strong company. We’re eternal optimists, and I know one thing: my customer base is a dedicated, hardworking, durable customer base who was not sidelined by Katrina, and they’re not going to be sidelined by Covid. It’s a bump in the road.”
Whann stated that there are currently
The bakery on Simon Bolivar Avenue has changed its look over the past century, but the location is still the same.
no concrete plans for Leidenheimer’s 125th anniversary, since it’s still uncertain as to how the virus situation will look later in the year.
“Given the impact of Covid on the city and the hospitality industry, my sense is that, as opposed to some celebration of Leidenheimer’s 125th, we might try to do something that supports our customers and the industry,” Whann said. “What that might be, I don’t know at this point, but it seems to me that that would be more appropriate than a 5,000-pound cake in the shape of a po-boy.”
Whann said that throughout the many, many years that Leidenheimer has been in New Orleans, being able to support the city’s rich restaurant culture is an important way of showing his love for the city.
“I love the city of New Orleans with every fiber of my being,” Whann said. “The way that I think about it is that we get up every morning to support some of the greatest restauranters and restaurant operators in the world, here in New Orleans. If they are appreciative of our efforts, that’s what counts for me and that’s what makes me proud and that’s what would make our employees proud.”
Just next door to New Orleans, Jefferson Parish is a seafood lover’s delight. Whether observing Lent or just craving fresh Louisiana seafood, our diverse cuisine from coastal classics to international fare serve up tradition, culture and flavor in every bite! From casual, family-friendly to chic and trendy, taste the destination where the locals go to dine!
A Clean & Safe Destination committed to the safety and well-being of our community and visitors. For more information visit www.visitjeffersonparish.com/pledge
St. Patrick’s Day celebrations in New Orleans, like all of our celebrations, center around food and libations. Irish coffee, pints of Guinness, green beer—the holiday’s signature adult beverages are easy to whip up wherever you may be. And if the usual spots for St. Patty’s seasonal dishes, such as the Irish Channel Block party, Fahy’s, and Pat O’Brien’s, are out of the question this year, you might find that serving up St. Patty’s Day fare at home makes for a pretty lucky day. It might even be something you want to do all year.
Perfect for every meal, this loaf is a quick bread, similar to a large biscuit. Salt, baking soda, and all-purpose flour (wheat or gluten-free) combine with melted butter, buttermilk, and an egg to form a crispy yet chewy loaf. You can add dried fruit—raisins are traditional—or make it vegan by replacing the egg and dairy with your favorite nut or seed milk and an acid, such as vinegar or lemon juice.
What makes St. Patrick’s Day parades so special are the special throws: cabbage, potatoes, onions, and carrots—the basic ingredients that you need to make an Irish stew. Traditionally cooked with mutton or lamb, Irish stew is just as often made with beef, if that’s what’s on hand. Seared meat and sautéed onions slow-roast with veggies and some Guinness. Rather than a roux, this stew is thickened with pearl barley. Serve it with buttered soda bread.
CODDLE
Because it’s concocted at the week’s end with whatever tidbits are in the kitchen, coddle is an Irish version of jambalaya, sans rice. Unlike the aforementioned mutton stew, coddle is usually made by slow-roasting alternating layers of meat (usually sausage and bacon) and root veggies (potatoes, onions, carrots) in Guinness, cider, or broth. This is a great choice for entry-level cooks and busy people. Throw what you’ve got into a crockpot, and you are good to go. If you didn’t make soda bread, pair your coddle with biscuits (aka, scones).
Possibly the most famous Irish dish, a corned beef and cabbage boil is also the easiest dish to prepare. Corned beef briskets are sold brined for your convenience, ready to throw into a big boil pot, along with the included seasoning packet, to simmer for a few hours. Potatoes, carrots, and cabbage get added at the end and get to hang out, soaking up the flavor, while the corned beef rests for 15 minutes. Strain the veggies, reserving some broth for topping individual bowls. Slice the corned beef across the grain and serve with mustard and horseradish, or even honey.
Pre-brined corned beef, with its unique shade of sodium-nitrate pink, may be on some folks’ list of foods to avoid. Luckily, brining your own beef brisket is super-easy. Using a large casserole dish or pot, keep the brisket in the fridge, submerged in water, kosher
salt, and pickling spices, for five to seven days. Flip it every day. It won’t have that pink color, but it will be nitrate-free. Add a couple of beets to the boil, for aesthetics. Or treat this corned beef brisket like any other brisket—roasted or braised in the oven, with a crusty, caramelized finish. No roasting pan? Use a lidded pot and a layer of onion slices as a rack instead.
So much tastiness is possible when mashed potatoes, flour, and eggs combine, and boxty covers the full range. Boil the dough like dumplings or gnocchi. Bake it in the oven like a loaf. Form little cakes and fry them in a pan. Some versions add half-grated raw potatoes, like hash browns, to the mix. Other versions add more milk to form a batter or something more like a crepe or pancake, ready to be topped or stuffed.
FRIED CABBAGE
Smothered, braised, sautéed—there are lots of ways to enjoy this nutritious Irish staple as a side dish or a meal in itself. At high heat, stir-fry shredded or chopped cabbage (and onion and garlic, if you love them) with the Cajun seasoning blend of your choice until the cabbage begins to caramelize. Finish with a dab of butter or coconut oil. Serve with potatoes, rice, or boxty. For a complete meal, up the protein by adding quinoa, bacon, or sausage.
Champ is simply mashed potatoes with green onions. Generally, colcannon is mashed potatoes with cabbage, but there are many variations of colcannon. Use other winter greens, such as leeks or kale. Add bacon, ham, or sausage. Make it vegan with coconut oil and soy milk. Use leftovers from your cabbage boil. This recipe is easily prepared with a pressure cooker, too. Serve it with Irish stew or coddle. Serve it like hash with a fried egg or two. Boxty can also be made with champ or colcannon rather than with plain mashed potatoes.
CHOCOLATE AND STOUT
Enjoying any of these dishes with a Guinness might be an obvious suggestion, but mixing up your favorite chocolate dessert with such a stout beer is also highly recommended. From cream cheese-frosted Devil’s food cake to ganache-covered brownies and even an ice cream float, however you want to pair them, chocolate and Guinness go together like cabbage and potatoes, as far as Irish cuisine is concerned. Stout not your thing? Try shortbread cookies instead.
By Emily Hingle
satisfy Chad, who soon took to competitions to prove his culinary abilities. “My first competition was in 1995 at the Los Islenos Festival, a gumbo contest. I was 25 years old and everyone else was much older and lived down the bayou. I took 1st Place. I did another one in Florida the following year and took 2nd. In 2009, I did the United Way’s Got Gumbo Cook-Off. There were serious chefs at this one; multiple Brennan restaurant head chefs,
The award-winning Charlie’s Restaurant located in Violet, Louisiana, has been feeding southern Louisianians for over 20 years. Owner and operator Chad Blanchard grew up around food on a Creole tomato farm in a rural community where cooking was a serious family business.
“Being from a Cajun family, all our gatherings were 30 deep and food was everywhere. From biscuits to gumbo, they loved food, and cooking was competitive; there were arguments over who did this and who's tasted better,” Blanchard explains. He started cooking on his own at the age of 8, which began a lifelong passion. He soon progressed from his own kitchen to a larger audience. “I taught myself with books and TV; I would create things at a very young age. I was cooking on parade routes in high school selling jambalaya on my own. Spring break, I would have cooking equipment and a stocked ice chest cooking in rooms with no kitchen, so it definitely was
something I knew was for me,” Blanchard says. Life brought Blanchard many new endeavors after graduating. “A month after high school, I found I was going to be a dad and got married, and I was applying for the Air Force but was on the fence. My father knew how I liked to cook so he found this little place close to home and asked me if I was interested in running it. I said yes, and we opened Charlie's Diner in 1992. We sat 22 people; my first menu was done with a Sharpie. I happen to still have it, too!” Within two years, they remodeled to accommodate twice as many diners and then bought a larger location they had aspired to own 10 years later.
Owning his dream restaurant wasn’t quite enough to
and also
Desire restaurant, just to mention a few. I took 1st place in Seafood, 2nd place in Exotic and 3rd place in traditional. I was so stoked! It truly woke me up out of my own mind,” Blanchard says. He continued entering and placing highly in cuisine contests. “I’ve won 16 awards in seven years, that’s pretty awesome. Everyone goes nuts for them at Charlie’s.”
Being such a prestigious chef of Cajun cuisine, Blanchard knows all the tricks of the Cajun food trade. “Making a roux is time consuming, constantly stirring and getting that right color. Roux should vary in color and nuttiness depending on type of gumbo you are preparing. Gumbo is one of my best dishes, but I do so many dishes. I'd have to say my jambalaya is amazing, but my crawfish dishes are epic. Everyone just goes nuts for them! Catfish Crawfish with Crawfish Mashed Potatoes. My Crazy Crab Pasta dish is a local favorite. Fried Soft Shell over angel hair pasta topped with our awesome crawfish cream sauce and cubed paneed eggplant. Our menu is eight pages long. We take pride in our cuisine here at Charlie's Restaurant and Catering, and it shows.”
Being located on the river on the way to the Gulf, this Louisiana gem has a job to spread the word about coastal restoration. “It is so important for us to protect our coast and make it what it used to be other than just letting it rot. I am strong on this. Caernarvon Diversion took out 42 square miles and half of St. Bernard’s public oyster beds. We pay more for seafood today directly because of this. We need to help stop and rebuild our coastlines for the future of Louisiana’s communities. Seafood is what makes us Louisiana proud.” And Charlie’s Restaurant makes proud Louisiana cuisine.
“We take pride in our cuisine, and it shows.”
~ Chad Blanchard, Owner, Charlie's Restaurant and Catering
The locally made craft beer scene is booming these days, but there’s nothing like a frosty, filling Guinness when St. Patrick’s Day rolls around to herald the warm days of springtime. Being a city with a notable Irish heritage, New Orleans has many drinking holes that are proud to serve Guinness Draught throughout the year. The sales of Guinness always skyrocket around St. Patty’s, however. Here’s where to find a perfect Guinness pour around town.
And, yes, there is a right way and a wrong way to pour it.
Arthur Guinness signed a 9,000-year lease on a four-acre piece of land in Dublin that included the shuttered St. James’s Gate Brewery on December 31, 1759, and thus began the story of Guinness beer. Currently, over three million pints of Guinness are brewed daily. From its humble home in Ireland, Guinness has traveled to every corner of the globe, becoming a fixture in many foreign lands. Did you know that three of the six Guinness-owned breweries in the world are on the continent of Africa? There’s also a brand-new Guinness brewery in Baltimore, Maryland, dubbed the Open Gate Brewery, which opened its doors in early 2019. Guinness can often be found here with its own dedicated spot behind the bar. You can be confident that the following bars will give you the best Guinness pour—which is not something to be taken lightly. Using a branded gravity glass or regular pint glass, pour the Guinness into the glass, which should be at a 45-degree angle. Fill to about 2.5 inches from the top. The Guinness should then be set aside and must rest for 119 seconds (about one second shy of two minutes). The Guinness is now ready to be filled to the top. Do not angle the glass for the final pour. When served, the Guinness’s nitrogen bubbles will gorgeously rise to the top of the glass and form a thick, rich foam; this is called the “surge and settle.”
The most obvious choice of bar in which to enjoy a Guinness is an Irish pub. Finn McCool’s, located at 3701 Banks St., is heavily decked out in iconic Guinness artwork, so you know that they take their perfect pours seriously. Guinness is the usual choice here, and you also find some of Guinness’s other options, such as Guinness Foreign Extra Stout. Also in Mid-City, you can grab a Guinness at Mick’s Irish Pub (4801 Bienville St.) and The Holy Ground Irish Pub (3340 Canal St.). You can also slowly enjoy your Guinness Draught with the addition of food at each of these bars. Fish and chips were made for Guinness.
Located just over the water from Ireland is the
United Kingdom, where Guinness is also a popular fixture. For the British pubs of New Orleans, Guinness is a stalwart beverage option. Winston’s in Old Metairie (531 Metairie Rd.) has a lounge-like interior and a wide, inviting patio for you to enjoy your Guinness along with elevated pub grub. Take a trip over the bridge to Crown & Anchor at Algiers Point (200 Pelican Ave.) for a pint. Just enter through the TARDIS on the corner.
The French Quarter is home to a couple of pubs as well, although they are more tourist-oriented than the city’s other pubs. Boondock Saint at 731 St. Peter St. lies just off of Bourbon Street. At this quirky little place, you will always find Guinness on tap, along with The Boondock Saints playing on the TV on a loop. Kerry Irish Pub and Ryan’s Irish Pub are both on upper Decatur Street at 331 and 241, respectively. For those who aren’t imbibing, ask for a Kaliber at Kerry Irish Pub. That’s Guinness’s non-alcoholic beer. Fahy’s Irish Pub has always been more of a service industry bar for Quarter workers, with its location at 540 Burgundy St. and its low-key, friendly atmosphere. If you need a walking Guinness for your daytime activities, head to St. Pat’s Irish Coffeehouse at the Irish Cultural Heritage Museum at 933 Conti St.
Bars that have built their base upon beer almost always serve Guinness Draught. Both Bulldogs (Uptown at 3236 Magazine St. and Mid-City at 5135 Canal Blvd.) keep Guinness on tap as other beers are rotated in and out. Cooter Brown’s (509 S. Carrollton Ave.) serves Guinness on draft at the front bar, while Bayou Beer Garden (326 N. Norman C. Francis Pkwy.) serves it on the patio taps. 45 Tchoup (4529 Tchoupitoulas St.) has a large liquor selection, yet Guinness is one of the more popular items among the regulars. Guinness is always on tap at Wrong Iron on the Greenway (3532 Toulouse St.).
This St. Patrick’s Day, celebrate in proper fashion by ordering a nice, cold Guinness. You can taste the centuries of tradition in every single sip!
For the greater part of the year, New Orleanians enjoy— or endure—much warmer weather than the rest of the country. From late April to early October, the thermometer will rarely (if ever) dip below 80°, and when you combine that with high levels of humidity, it feels several degrees hotter. As one might imagine, the almost constant heat doesn't tend to encourage regular consumption of hot beverages—after all, even our cafés au lait can be had frozen. But in the case of certain tipples, we're more than willing to make an exception.
Naturally, piping-hot alcoholic beverages are most often enjoyed during the holiday season, when the weather gods bless us with a short period of cooler temperatures. Toasty cocktails, such as the spectacular Café Brulot with orange, cinnamon, and brandy, or an Apple Hot Toddy will once again be all the rage, and with them, of course, comes Irish Coffee.
If our city-wide St. Patrick's Day celebrations and profusion of Irish pubs don't already make it obvious,
a large Irish community thrives in the Crescent City, and it's been that way for well over a century. At one point in the city's history, during the mid-19th century, the Irish made up a quarter of our population, which, at that point, made it the second-largest Irish community in the country after New York. We celebrate local Irish heroes, including philanthropist, champion of the destitute, and “Angel of the Delta” Margaret Haughery, who established shelters to feed and house orphans,
widows, and the elderly. Her statue that resides in a small park between Margaret Place and Camp Street was the first public monument erected to honor a woman in the U.S. Entire neighborhoods, including the Irish Channel and Carrollton (laid out on the site of the Macarty Plantation), are teeming with Irish history and heritage, not to mention numerous streets, gorgeous historic homes, and stunning Catholic churches that bear the names of important Irish figures.
While the temperatures do slowly begin to rise this month, it's still chilly enough to warrant knocking back a few incredible Irish coffees at one of many restaurants or bars all over the city. This year, though the parades likely won't be rolling, the cabbage won't be flying, and the block parties are heavily subdued, perhaps we can still find the space to safely raise a warm, whiskey-laden glass to past St. Patrick's Day celebrations with the hope for healthy future festivities to come.
Though there's an abundance of Irish pubs in the French Quarter to choose from, one particular favorite is Kerry Irish Pub. Known for a convivial atmosphere and live music performances, many of those being of the Celtic persuasion, the Kerry is a laidback spot offering not only the “perfect pint of Guinness,” but also several versions of Irish Coffee. Granulated sugar is muddled with a healthy shot of Jameson Irish Whiskey—though they're willing to substitute with Bushmills, Paddy's, Tullamore Dew, or whatever the customer prefers—and a splash of coffee liqueur. The whiskey mixture is then merged with eight ounces of freshly brewed hot coffee, a medium-roast special blend from Standard Coffee of New Orleans, and topped with fresh whipped cream. The pub also offers a “special” version, which includes the addition of Bailey's Irish Cream, because whiskey and coffee liqueur are often not enough.
Only a few blocks away on Conti Street lies the Irish Cultural Museum, which just so happens to feature its own bar called St. Pat's Irish Coffeehouse. It does, in fact, serve coffee, espressos, and lattes made from Madisonville's own Abita Roasting Co.'s beans, but the name also implies that they offer coffee cocktails, and that makes sense, does it not? Owned and operated by the Ahearn family, the coffeehouse features one particular cocktail, the “St. Pat's Famous Irish Coffee,” which was served in their great grandfather's bar on the corner of Royal and Canal Streets back in the 1890s. This age-old version follows a classic preparation, during which hot black coffee, brown sugar syrup, and Irish whiskey (the type of which can be selected by the bartender or customer from their vast selection) is topped, or “floated,” with fresh heavy cream.
As an interesting aside, St. Pat's Irish Coffeehouse also makes a drink in honor of the previously mentioned Margaret Haugherty dubbed “Margaret's Milk Punch.” As it turns out, the philanthropist owned a dairy, which is how she fed so many destitute in the city, and it
only seems right that this concoction be named for her. Made with whole milk, fresh cream, brown sugar syrup, cinnamon, vanilla, and, of course, Irish whiskey, this iced cocktail is served in a tall glass and garnished with a whole cinnamon stick.
Only two blocks away, you'll discover a bar that's a bit more laid-back, dubbed Fahy's Irish Pub, near the corner of Burgundy and Toulouse. Though they claim to have never “won any craftcocktail awards” at their little “dive bar in the Quarter,” they have made, and customers have enjoyed, their simple version of Irish Coffee for almost 30 years. Community brand coffee is brewed in a Mr. Coffee machine, mixed with equal parts Jameson and Saint Brendan’s Irish Cream, and served in a double plastic cup lined with a beverage napkin (that's important!). On occasion, bartender Sarah Hicks will top the drink with “a squish of canned whip,” but only if they happen to have some on hand.
It only seems natural to find Irish Coffee at an Irish pub, and there are definitely plenty to choose from in the GNO, but any restaurant or bar worth its salt should have its own special version of this coffee cocktail. On Magazine Street, between 8th and 9th Streets, there's a newer coffeehouse, called The Vintage, which touts “coffee, beignets, wine, bubbles, and bites.” Known primarily for their specialty coffee drinks and bountiful beignets (can you say “fancy beignet flight?”), they also serve what they dub a Classic Irish Coffee. Made with Orleans Coffee Exchange-roasted beans, the coffee is combined with a mix of Bailey's and Jameson and topped with whipped cream and a sprinkling of cinnamon and nutmeg. You can also get an iced version concocted with their cold brews, one with chicory and one without.
While LeBlanc + Smith's Cavan sports an excellent bar, it's doubtful that folks see it as an Irish pub, considering it is primarily a restaurant—and a stunning one at that. Located inside a historic 1800s-era mansion, this Irish-named eatery also has well-crafted cocktails with a constantly changing menu created by Cavan's beverage director Jen Hussey. Her version uses hot coffee, brewed from Congregation Coffee beans, which she feels “has nice chocolaty dark notes and isn't too acidic.” Demerara syrup (made from a type of brown sugar from sugarcane) is combined with hot coffee, Tullamore Dew, Hoodoo Chicory Liqueur, and chocolate liqueur; topped with a boozy whipped cream made from whole milk and espresso liqueur; and at last finished with a sprinkling of freshly grated nutmeg.
Finally, you can double up on your sweet tooth with a thick slice of doberge and a warm Irish Coffee at Bakery Bar on Annunciation Street. Using the Le Grand Coq Rouge blend from French Truck Coffee (it is only two blocks away), this super-sweet bar adds Kilbeggan Irish Whiskey with Demerara syrup and tops it all off with fresh whipped cream, chocolate shavings, and coffee grounds. Anyone else feeling chilly?
Even with the economic trials associated with the pandemic, it still seems like “business as usual” in the restaurant industry, where eateries have adapted to the “new normal with ramped-up takeout and delivery options, along with plenty of outdoor seating. Though somewhat surprising, it's still heartening to see New Orleans folks forging ahead and making their delicious dreams a reality.
No longer at steak … The future of Charlie's Steakhouse, an 89-year-old restaurant on Dryades Street, was uncertain after owner Matt Dwyer passed away. But to the joy of longtime patrons and no-fuss steak fans both near and far, Matt's brother Ryan has picked up the gauntlet, teaming up with famed local chef and restaurateur Aaron Burgau and his partners to reopen. In late December, Charlie's Steakhouse once again flung open its doors, serving steak and sides with chef and smoked-meat master Neil McClure heading the kitchen. Their goal? To keep Charlie's the way it's always been with the menu (or lack thereof), service, and casual appeal exactly the same. 4510 Dryades St., charliessteakhousenola.com
Between the river and the levee … For the first time in 50 years, a new hotel has opened in the historic French Quarter. Renovated from a 19th-century sugar warehouse, the One11 Hotel is a luxe boutique hotel with exposed brick walls, original beams, stunning views, and (of course) its own restaurant and bar. Appropriately dubbed Batture Bistro & Bar, this gorgeous new space offers cocktails and bites, from the “Satsuma Squirt” with Bayou Silver rum and lemon simple syrup to boudin egg rolls and crab gratin. 111 Iberville St., one11hotel.com/batture
Makin' gourmet groceries … In mid-December, chefs Alison Vega-Knoll and Chris Wilson, the brains behind Station 6 in Bucktown, opened Larder, a gourmet market and eatery in Metairie. In addition to a full kitchen offering meals-to-go and dine-in breakfast and lunch, there's a high-end market with a nice selection of cheeses and charcuterie, Cajun caviar, chef-sourced oils and vinegars, mustard, spices, dressings, nuts and popcorn, candies and crackers, and pastas and rice. Larder also offers gelato from Piccola Gelateria, a large selection of coffees and teas from French Market Coffee, plus a nice collection of wines and beer. “Sourcing the products for sale and those we use in our dishes has been a labor of love,” Wilson said. “Alison and I use these items in our own kitchens, so we know they offer the best quality and flavors available.” 3005 Veterans Memorial Blvd., lardergourmetmarket.com
Bring on the brew … Brewmaster Sonny Day from Urban South Brewery and Chef Anh Luu joined forces to open Bywater Brew Pub this winter on the corner of Royal and Montegut. Featuring “a Viet-Cajun menu, five brewing tanks, and a full bar,” the new pub is slinging fried fontina egg rolls, yaka Mein, fried chicken, and “Phorittos”—basically, pho ingredients in a tortilla—along with plenty of local brews on tap from Urban South, Parleux Beer Labs, Second Line Brewing, and more. They just recently started rolling out their own frothy formulations in February with more coming your way this month. 3000 Royal St., bywaterbrewpub.com
A New Orleans Tradition Since 1913
Tacos a-go-go … Because our love of tacos should be shared on both sides of the Mighty Mississippi, Barracuda is opening a second location in Algiers Point. Brett Jones, founder of the popular Tchoupitoulas Street taco stand, is excited to serve the same great Mexican-inspired fare to folks on the Westbank, from chicharrones and queso to tacos, bowls, and quesadillas filled with red chili pork or chicken seasoned with achiote and turmeric adobo. “When we saw that the old Gulf building was available, it gave our team a lot of the same feelings as our original location on Tchoupitoulas,” Jones said. “The space had everything we wanted in a location: accessibility for our neighbors and friends taking the Algiers Ferry, rich history, and a vibe we couldn’t create just through design.”
A pleasurable dining experience is waiting for you. Italian dishes, fresh seafood & delicious steaks. Have your special occasion or business function with us. Private rooms available. Ample off-street parking.
446 Pelican Ave., eatbarracuda.com
All Thai'd up … Yet another Thai spot opened recently, this time just inside the Marigny on N. Rampart Street inside the building that used to house the New Orleans Triumph Baptist Church. A longtime pop-up at Pal's Lounge, Budsi Authentic Thai at long last has its own digs, serving dishes such as pork dumplings topped with fried garlic, fried fish cakes, mushroom larb, pad see ew shrimp with wide noodles and Thai kale, and Budsi's own “Royal Pad Thai.”
1760 N. Rampart St., budsisthai.com
5 Years in a Row!
Closed Sun. & Mon. Tues. Dinner Open at 4 Wed. through Fri. Lunch & Dinner Open at 11:30 Saturday Dinner Open at 4 1838 Napoleon Av. Raw Oyster Bar 895-4877 PascalsManale.com
New to the market … Marigny food hall St. Roch Market just got a new meat-wielding vendor, dubbed Poindexter's Delicatessen. Louisiana native Kellen Poindexter, a graduate of the Texas Culinary Academy in Austin, launched the deli concept in mid-December “as an ecologically responsible eatery that seeks to impact the local dining sphere with its focus on sustainably sourced ingredients.” Diners can expect to enjoy dishes such as Poindexter's already-famous prime rib French dip dressed with white truffle horseradish cream, grilled cheese sandwiches with heirloom tomatoes, and the “Waldork Salad” with roasted pumpkin seeds, red grapes, and feta cheese. 2381 St. Claude Ave., strochmarket.com/poindexters
At the table … Not slowing down for a minute, Creole Cuisine Restaurant Concepts launched modern Italian restaurant A Tavola early this year at Lakeside Shopping Center, a family-friendly eatery serving wood-fired pizzas, paninis, sandwiches, and more Italian favorites from their open kitchen. “A Tavola is a place where families and friends can gather to enjoy each other’s company while enjoying a great meal,” Marv Ammari, Creole Cuisine CEO said. Sit down at their table and expect plates of eggplant caponata, caesar salad, grilled yellowfin tuna panini, muffuletta pizza, and lobster ravioli with sherry butter sauce. A Tavola's extensive bar program features specialty cocktails, including their own house-made limoncello, and several wines on tap for those looking to try something new without the commitment of an entire bottle. For dessert, Freret Street's own Piccola Gelateria is featured once again, supplying the new Italian eatery with their exquisitely made gelato and sorbetto. 3413 Veterans Blvd., atavo.la
Because, tacos … The Bywater neighborhood’s backyard taco stand Rosalita's Tacos has moved up, grabbing its very own digs on St. Claude Avenue. Created by local dynamic restaurant duo Laurie Casebonne and Chef Ian Schnoebelen, the new joint opened up on New Year's Eve in the space that formerly housed Shake Sugary bakery. Taco-lovers can enjoy everything from al pastor and carne asada to lengua (beef tongue) and pork belly tacos; enchiladas, tamales, and chile relleno; and homemade juices, dulce de leche ice cream, and fruit empanadas.
3304 St. Claude Ave., facebook.com/Rosalitas-Backyard-Tacos
By Kathy Bradshaw
“And he would take a roadside attraction, no matter how cheap, how crooked, or how sad, over a shopping mall, any day.”
The road trip is what differentiates driving to get from Point A to Point B from the real joy of going somewhere. You’re behind the wheel with snacks, music playing, feeling that “driving high”—but it’s so much more than just you and the open road. It’s you and miles of rice paddies and crawfish ponds. It’s roadside jumbo shrimp and 12-foottall jumbo shrimp boots. It’s sugarcane fields, seafood stands, and Sonics.
A road trip can be a source of endless wonder, gift shops, and amusing attractions—the cheesier and wackier the better. For the price of a tank of gas, you can witness history (Huey P. Long’s tomb!), taste four-star food at one-star locations (drive-thru gumbo shacks!) and stock up on necessities (eggs, fresh from the chicken or pickled in a jar!) or on that unusual must-have souvenir (alligator tooth key ring or crawfish temporary tattoos!).
Within Louisiana, you can drive through at least four “Capitals of the World,” including that of boudin, crawfish, strawberries, and frogs. You can get cigarettes, daiquiris, and crawfish without ever stepping out of your car. There’s
–Shadow, in Neil Gaiman’s American GodsPHOTOS: KATHY BRADSAW
a Dollar General or Family Dollar store at every mile marker. And there are endless Waffle Houses, Super 8s, roadside restaurants, and truck stops and tourist attractions whenever you need some form of refreshment or diversion. But what if these roadside enchantments were the destinations themselves, rather than just trip lagniappe—more than simply the icing on the roadside cake? Getting there really can be all the fun.
Grab a bag of CheeWees and one or two of your adventurous friends, put on your road trip playlist, and jump on I-10. Here are a few of the more unusual points of interest within Louisiana that really will make you turn that car around.
Nothing can get you to pull over faster than a rest stop an hour after a Big Gulp—unless it’s the appeal of the “giant” roadside attraction. Whether it’s the World’s Largest Ball of Twine or the two-story likeness of a crawfish, there’s just something adorably quirky, endearingly campy, and over-the-top about a giant replica of, well, just about anything—on the side of the road. Not to mention, it’s a prestigious honor to hold the title of world’s largest (or smallest)
whatever, so you know you want a selfie in front of those detour-worthy objects.
Here in Louisiana, we have giant “sculptures” in giant numbers. There are three humongous cans of Steen’s Pure Cane Syrup, standing beside the Steen’s syrup mill in Abbeville. Haughton is home to a 199-foot cross, one of the tallest in the country. There’s a whale of a catfish, along with an immense fishing bobber, outside Spahr’s Seafood Restaurant in Des Allemands. Spahr’s is also renowned for its great food, so if you make a stop there, you can grab a shrimp platter with a side of roadside kitsch.
Monsieur Jacques is a mammoth silver, dapperly dressed frog statue who welcomes you to Rayne, the Frog Capital of the World. Rayne also has several artistically decorated frog statues all over town. While these artsy amphibians are much smaller than Jacques, they still seem giant—if you’re a frog.
You can visit the massive loaf of bread rotating incessantly in front of the Evangeline Maid Bread bakery in Lafayette. And there’s a giant crawfish made out of red-painted nuts and bolts and (maybe?) car parts, out in front of the Crazy ‘Bout Crawfish Cajun Café in Breaux Bridge (the Crawfish Capital of the World). If you’re a fan of colossal crustaceans, there’s another crawfish monstrosity beside Swamp Daddy’s Seafood Restaurant in Alexandria. You could also visit what surely must be the world’s largest crawfish claw, outside Nott’s Corner seafood joint in Lake Arthur (a town known
living in a cage a half-block away on Main Street, although he seems to currently be on a virus vacation).
Saint the Alligator is a 50-foot wooden alligator sculpture in Laplace, constructed from wooden logs and kindling in the style of the levee bonfire structures at Christmastime. The current iteration is a “tiny” replica of the now-defunct 78-foot original gator.
Finally, on the flip side, if you’re not of the “bigger is better” school of thought, then check out the Madonna Chapel, the “smallest church in the world,” in Plaquemine (which your GPS will insist is pronounced “PLOCK-myne”).
There is no shortage of good food in this state, but certain off-the-highway eateries can turn a pit stop into one of the best meals of your life. Take Lea’s Lunchroom in Lecompte, for instance. It originated as a ham-sandwichslinging roadside gas station in the 1920s, and nearly a century later, Lea’s has mainly continued down that same road. Their extremely limited menu includes a selection of just six daily chalkboard specials—ham always among them. If the notorious Bonnie and Clyde’s regular appearance as customers didn’t put Lea’s on the map, then their criminally good homemade pies did. Flavors include all the classics, from coconut cream pie to lemon meringue, and, of course, pecan.
Essentially a suburb of Lafayette, Scott is the Boudin
as “Louisiana’s Best-Kept Secret”). Nott’s used to display an entire giant crawfish out front, but after Hurricanes Laura and Delta got to it, only a single sad, lone pincher remains. Owner Maxine Hoffpauir assures us that a newly rebuilt mondo crawfish is on its way soon.
Located in downtown Ponchatoula, the Strawberry Capital of the World, is, appropriately, a giant strawberry statue. It’s not the world’s largest, a title belonging to the enormous strawberry in Strawberry Point, Iowa, but Ponchatoula’s behemoth berry is much taller than a six-foot man and is on perhaps a million-to-one scale compared to the typical fruit (while you’re there, check out the live alligator, known as Old Hardhide,
The on-screen home for Steel Magnolias all-star cast
Capital of the World and also aptly referred to as “Pig Town.” If you are looking for something meaty or fried, it’s worth pulling off I-10 at Exit 97, where places such as Billy’s Boudin, Don’s Quality Meats, and Best Stop Supermarket work their pork magic on everything from boudin balls to boudin links to cracklins. With food like that, it’s not surprising that Scott is also listed as “The Second Best Place to Live in Louisiana.”
Foti’s (aka just “The Fruit Stand”) in Breaux Bridge is part restaurant, part market, and part museum of the weird. The small café offers po-boys, burgers, and madeto-order daiquiris, while the shop has bags of frozen okra, packages of Swamp Dust Seafood Boil, and jars of mayhaw jelly and fig preserves. There’s also a live parrot on-site, life-sized alligator and shark replicas, several creepy clowns, Jesus statues, and a giant rooster out front. And the figs aren’t the only things that are preserved—Foti’s keeps a taxidermy nutria, wearing Mardi Gras beads, near a shopping cart full of cabbage.
12-foot-tall jumbo shrimp boots Arm remnants of St. Valérie of Milan Rayne's Monsieur Jacques
The couple's reign of terror and celebrity ended when they were killed by "Highwaymen" on May 23, 1934, in Bienville Parish.
If you’re looking for something famous, historic, or just plain odd, hit the road.
On a rural gravel road in the boonies of Ossun grows the Tree of Souls—or Soles. It is strewn with endless pairs of discarded shoes, from Crocs to flip-flops to Nike Airs, which hang from the branches like beads on a St. Charles Avenue oak. A sign nailed to the trunk explains that the tree is meant to “offer you a place to hang your burdens,” the shoes therefore being symbolic of your worries. This roadside attraction is perfect if you need to clear away your troubles, or your closet clutter.
The St. Joseph Co-Cathedral is a beautiful old church in Thibodaux, complete with fresh holy water on tap and
statues of saints with bibles and receding hairlines. But in one corner of the cathedral lies a casket-like structure encasing a nightmarish wax woman who appears as if she has only just recently expired, still pale and contorted in pain. The eerie mummymartyr is allegedly lying atop the actual arm remnants of St. Valérie of Milan, from the 1st or 2nd century AD, brought back from Italy in 1867. A certificate on the wall attests to its macabre authenticity.
Check out the Bonnie & Clyde Ambush Museum in Gibsland, where the infamous bank robbers were shot to death, or the bullet hole from the bullet that killed Huey P. Long in Baton Rouge. In St. Martinville, you can visit the “Evangeline Oak,” the tree central to Henry Wadsworth Longfellow’s famous poem “Evangeline,” which focused on the Cajuns’ expulsion from Nova Scotia.
Pop culture junkie? Stop by the house where Steel Magnolias was filmed in Natchitoches or the Britney Spears Museum in her hometown of Kentwood. A must for any die-hard fan, this museum has now officially been renamed the Kentwood Historical and Cultural Museum, and the Britney paraphernalia has been relegated to just a single exhibit within— but still, it’s Britney, B*tch.
Don’t overwater, and make sure to remove a third of the leaves or less when you’re clipping them for use.
Tips for outdoor herb care:
Herbs grown inside will rebloom and sometimes double in size, but herbs grown outside can grow to be impressively enormous. Basil, mint, lemon verbena, rosemary, and sage can handle the Louisiana summers. Thyme, lavender, and catnip need to be in partial shade, as the constant sun is too much for them, but they make especially contented indoor plants and are ideal for shady porches. Parsley, cilantro, chamomile, dill, oregano, chives, and garlic can be outside in the spring, but will recede as summer approaches.
Flowering herbs:
When your herbs start to flower, it’s a beautiful sight. Blooms can pop up in surprisingly brilliant pinks and yellows and purples. At this point, your plants will become pollinating stations for bees and butterflies. The tradeoff is, the plants will stop growing larger and potentially become bitter as their focus shifts to giving the flowers the nutrients they need, rather than the leaves. If you want to keep growing and eating your herbs, snip the flowers off. If you have enough space, divide the plant and keep one half for you and one half for your flying friends.
Planting vegetables:
It’s March! We’re at the tail end of winter and the awakening of spring, which means lots of beautiful days and fresh blooms, but also unpredictable, fluctuating temperatures here in Louisiana. As a gardener, that means that it’s time to plant your heartier cold-weather vegetables that can withstand the sudden changes, seeds for your spring edibles, and everything that falls into the category of yearround indoor greens.
What sort of space do you have?
You don’t need a big backyard to become a burgeoning gardener. As long as you’ve got sunlight, you can grow happy little plants in window sills and happy larger plants on porches. Certain vegetables need more room to spread, and for that, a yard affords exciting opportunities.
What grows indoors?
Herbs! A kitchen garden can provide a few fresh greens to top off soups and salads. You’ll usually have great luck with basil, thyme, rosemary, mint, and parsley.
What should you plant outdoors (early March)?
Summers in Louisiana are harsh, so while most plants love sunlight, the heat can really get to them. Here’s the list of winter vegetables that you can plant in the first half of March that should thrive through spring: beets, broccoli, cabbage, carrots, snap beans, lima beans, collards, mustard greens, kale, kohlrabi, lettuce, non-sweet potatoes, radishes, spinach, and turnips.
By Sabrina StoneWhat should you plant outdoors (late March)?
In the second half of March, we’re officially into spring, so it’s time to plant your more summery edibles: chard, corn, eggplants, okra, peppers, pumpkins, squash, tomatoes, cantaloupes, and watermelons.
Observations:
“After the danger of frost has passed” is such a poetic-sounding phrase. Up north, that day is a moving target, as frost can come when you least expect it. In Louisiana, it’s safe to say that March 20, the marker of the spring equinox, is your last day of concern. If you would like to jumpstart your outdoor plantings before then, just give the seedlings lots of sun, and love and water and keep them inside until the later end of March.
Tips for indoor herb care:
Herbs grown inside in window sills don’t need much except for direct sunlight and attention to watering. Each herb will dry out at different rates. Basil happens to love water, so keep a plastic cup under it for maximum absorption and check each pot’s soil for moisture every day.
Vegetables just don’t get enough light inside, but if you’ve got a porch, you’ve got options. Peppers and tomatoes are vertical growers and do very well in pots with full sun. Turnips, spinach, radishes, rutabagas, mustard greens, celery, chard, collards, and lettuce only need to be planted a few inches from each other, so they do well in raised beds and pots, as well as in the (fertilized) ground. They can be interchanged with herbs, as long as enough space is given for each row of seeds to thrive. The more space, the more thorough weeding, and the more pulling up of microgreens you do to uncrowd your plants once the seeds successfully sprout, the larger they can grow. Corn, cucumbers, eggplants, okra, potatoes, pumpkins, and watermelons need a generous amount of space to spread, so they can only exist in the ground.
Vegetable hot tip:
Lettuces are a great starter vegetable. You can interchange breeds to get beautiful colors. They’re quick growers, so you’re not sitting around for months waiting for an eggplant to reach maturity. Just make sure, as a general rule, that you never take more than a third of the leaves at a time. You can actually chop the whole lettuce head down to a half-inch from the dirt twice in its growth cycle and wait for the entire thing to sprout back up—after two reincarnations, however, the plant starts to get bitter and inedible.
Roses
For pops of color, there’s nothing like roses. While February is the ideal month for rose care, we haven’t missed out entirely. Drift roses, which are technically shrubs, grow happily and easily in Louisiana. They’re low-maintenance, can thrive in large pots or in the ground, spread, and produce multiple blooms many times throughout the warm months. They need full sun every day and a lot of drainage, but as long as the soil isn’t too wet, your drift roses will bloom and bloom!
"When are you going to get a real job?” my customer asked. After I resisted the urge to pistol-whip him with his drink, I opted instead to serve his beer with a side order of righteous reasons why my job was more than real. As a lawyer, he seemed to actually weigh the merits of my case, especially when I concluded with how much money I earned as a bartender/waitress. After my summation, he confessed to not liking his own profession.
That was about 40 years ago in Mobile, Alabama. The hospitality business was not the most hospitable environment to work in, especially for women. My profession was generally undervalued, and our status ranked low. Oh sure, we were often beloved by our regular customers, but just like housekeepers/maids, we were not considered equals. I must give credit and appreciation to my circle of friends back in those “old days” of Mobile—they didn’t give a flip whether I was a banker or a bartender, and this meant the world to me, since nearly all earned their livings in professions considered “professional.” They were quite the smart set. Perhaps that was why they knew better than to judge the worth of my labor. But snooty people did abound outside of my clique of friends.
Loved as I was by my mother, she was less than thrilled at my career choice, and I know she was initially embarrassed that I was a waitress (especially my bartender or cocktail server gigs). Back then in Mobile, the gum-chewing heart-of-gold floozy stereotype loomed large in her mind. Gunsmoke was a television favorite then, and my serving cocktails had her picturing me as Miss Kitty, the tough saloon gal (if this character were in Deadwood, she, in all reality, would have been a prostitute). Oh, Mom knew better, but still, slinging hash wasn’t quite what she had hoped for. Dad, on the other hand, was slightly less concerned with other folks’ opinions and simply told me to “be the best at whatever I did.”
In those early years, toting a tray held little interest to me. I was young, unmotivated, and, frankly, entered the food and beverage world because I was qualified for little else. (No, this is not to denigrate restaurant or bar work—it would take a tome to list the skills and superpowers required for that work.) The point is, I knew nothing about typing (this was well before computer skills were even an issue) or bookkeeping. I bypassed trade school and never even entertained a college endeavor. But jobs were plentiful in the food and beverage realm. And jobs I got, and jobs I quit, and many resulted in termination (and usually with good reason).
One of my first gigs as a waitress was at Howard Johnson’s. Now, many of you may be too young to have enjoyed their 28 flavors of ice cream, famous clam
plates, or liver and onions. I was practically weaned on their chocolate chip and peppermint ice cream cones. So, of course, I wanted to work there when I grew up. Well, I take liberties with the term work—I was there to eat, and eat I did. I had no interest in tips, so I turned most of my tables over to an energetic waitress who was actually there to earn a living and not an expanded waistline. Needless to say, my tenure was brief.
However, as the years passed, I began to take my dad’s advice and make the most of a job. My personality (a bit loud, a cutup, always going for the laughs, which, for years, teachers and my parents had tried to tame) finally found its niche. Entertaining customers, making them laugh, and growing friendships over a tray of food (or across a bar) came to be my forte. I still lacked the polish required of fine-dining restaurants, but I preferred casual, preferred talking to my people more than up-selling a wine list. And what I lacked in interest to do the hard sell and to maneuver customers to spend more, I made up for with repeat customers and loyalty that worked both ways. Also, while my wine knowledge and finesse was merely adequate, my commitment to sanitation went ballistic. I was the green/ clean police of constant cleaning. I could dismantle a Hobart dishwasher; I was the nemesis of grease-clogged filters. This appealed to managers but annoyed the heck out of coworkers.
Pushy (pain-in-the-ass) as I was with a soapy sponge, I was fortunate to garner lifelong friendships during those decades of tray-toting and beer-slinging. Those coworkers made each and every day for me a pleasure. I have found that a strong sense of camaraderie exists among those in food and beverage. We are generally considered outsiders by the more establishmenttype workers. Perhaps we’re respected more now than in my early days, but we are generally more free-spirited (not to say that we don’t work our asses off) and less conventional. Example: tattoos are the norm in today’s restaurants, but not so much in corporate work places. And perhaps it is difficult to view those who serve you as equals? Food for thought. Still and all, these days, anything culinary is newsworthy, and prior to COVID-19, entrepreneurs seemed to flock to investing in the restaurant/bar/coffee venues. More and more, folks seem to connect with food, be it cooking in or dining out. And with this, I feel our trade has been elevated. I have to wrap this career up now, which isn’t easy, as the better part of my adult life has been skating across greasy floors under a tray—and loving it. We are a tough breed who can multitask a dozen things at once and still make you smile. We serve up good times and wonderful memories. And I am proud to have served.
As we all know (or should), there is the fear of 50 percent of New Orleans restaurants closing mostly forever because of the pandemic (nola.com). That gives you, my optimistic entrepreneur in a fit of spontaneous enthusiasm, the chance to exercise an innate inclination to open your very own bistro, trattoria, café, joint, beer garden, boite, or gourmangerie. The word from your culinary visionary, advisor, and allaround restaurant consultant (me) is “consider.”
Just because you make a dynamite Bolognese, tarte Tatin, or vegan seitan Bourguignon or have the inside track to the next-greatest raging collective culinary epiphany doesn’t mean that you’ll be able to make a go where/when others have failed— statistically, about 60 percent in the first year and 70 to 85 percent in the first five years (cnbc.com). Unless. Unless you are a wizard with mathematics, have money to invest while expecting little chance of return, and are willing to give up your life and free time for the morethan-foreseeable future, you’re in for a major heartbreak, my friend. Consider.
Purchasing a defunct restaurant is logistically sane because the location is mentally ingrained in eaters’ consciousness, especially considering that the three most important considerations of opening any restaurant are generally location, location, and location. If it is in an average or so-so location, you’ll spend about $2,500 per seat to purchase (40 seats = $100,000), if you’re lucky. This will not include the rent. This is where you walk into a place and tell the previous owner, “Look, I’ll give you a hundred grand to turn it over to me.” For a functioning restaurant, you’ll pay more, or usually the equivalent of a year’s profits. Purchasing something existing and believing that you can make it better is called a “blue-sky” investment. If you look at taking an empty space and turning it into your dream eatery, figure on $5,000 a seat for the location, not counting your rent.
Rent. Consider your rent will be 5 percent of your income. If your rent is $7,500 a month, you’ll have to take in $150,000 a month (I speak from professional knowledge, experience, and failure in this field). Get a long lease with an option and beware of the “triple net,” which is when you also pay the upkeep, maintenance, and insurance on the property, aside from the business. Don’t forget to register the lease at City Hall to cement it in legally.
As you peruse your space, after learning the rent, count your tables and seats. Let’s get back to those 40 seats. To maintain that $150,000-a-month income, each seat will need to bring in $3,750 a month—we’re talking real estate here. Here’s where mathematics becomes mind-blowing. Dinner only? Lunch and dinner? Take out and/or delivery? Six days a week or seven? Weekend brunch? Menu prices, average
check, liquor license, counter service? How much are you willing to spend on labor, food cost, and ambiance?
Next, identify your customers. Who are they, where are they coming from, what do they want, and how much are they willing to spend? Will you consider media presence, advertising, billboards, and/or sending out flyers? How will you get customers to notice you? Celebrity chef, two-for-ones, happy hour, catering, early-bird dinners, live music, free beer and hand jobs?
Hiring and training staff—this is a real challenge. First, decide how many you need. Do you have a manager? Hire one you’re sure that you can tell what to do and not the other way around. Your dream should have but one boss: you. Right or wrong, it’s you who will take it in the shorts should you go down the tubes. Get someone you can bounce your ideas off of who can advise you when it’s time to get back in the box. Encourage input, but retain veto power. You may want to avoid hiring relatives. Hire only the malleable and careerminded, no one too young (immature) or too old (may know too much). I know it’s not fair, but reality sucks. Get the young, eager, and full of body fluids; you’re building a team here. If the culinary business wanted experience and wisdom, I would be employed out there. Obviously, hiring veteran service workers is something that the industry as a whole shuns, so it must be a tenet or something.
Pay people fairly and reward loyalty. Consistently treat everyone, from lowest to highest, with respect, and let all know that you expect their best. Lead by example, don’t micromanage, be firm and sensitive, and, most of all, don’t flaunt your position. Learn to do everyone’s job—yes, even the dishwasher. Create passion. Be careful of what you say at all times and how you say it; you’re an example, so be a righteous one.
Get a good office staff or at least a qualified accountant to keep track of all the pennies. Learn to read the numbers; numbers don’t lie. Remember that volume covers a lot of sins, and things will look good when you’re busy. You’ll tend to count the dollars and forget the pennies, but beware: let pennies slip and dollars follow.
Always have a resident maniac on duty and a nag in the office, keep eyes on everything all the time, insist on accountability from anyone involved in anything, listen to staff unrest with mindfulness.
I’ve worked in food service all my life and believed that I would until my last breath, and when I hear of another closing, it’s like a death in the family. I’m looking forward to eateries roaring back after this is over. New Orleans has an appetite for life and needs to be fed. Hopefully rents will be reasonable so that you can forge ahead and be part of the wave of maniacs, who, against all odds, will take us to the next level. I’m counting on you and that monster spaghetti sauce.
