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CONTENTS 01 CHRISTIAN DIOR
18 COSTING A LOOK
03 MARIA GRAZIA
21 LISA MANOBAN
05 THEMES
23 COLLATERAL
11 DIOR & DENIM
29 DIOR KOREA
CHIURI
13 CRUISE COLLECTION 33 CAMPAIGN
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CHRISTIAN DIOR Christian Dior was a French fashion designer who is still making strong impact in todays’ new world. Dior grew up sheltered away in the seaside town of Granville on the coast of Normandy. He went from selling sketches to make some pocket money, to taking over a small gallery his father had bought for him with known paintings like Picasso. Amid the Great Depression, his father’s business collapsing and the death of his mother and brother, he was forced to closed down the gallery. He then moved on to work for designer Robert Piguet. After being called to the military in 1942, he then began working for couturier Lucien Long along with Pierre Balamin. In December 1947 on the 16th, Dior had opened the House of Dior. Following the opening,
in 1947 he launched his first collection ‘Carolle’ and ‘Huit’, showcasing 90 different looks. One these looks became revolutionary, being named “New Look”, though iconic and reestablishing Paris as the joyful fashion capital, it also did create some controversy as it used excessive amounts of fabric at a time of post-war fabric restrictions. Dior continued to flourish as the years followed, introducing the A-line, Y-line and the H-line. After only being the fashion with his own brand for 10 years, Dior had passed away from a heart attack in 1957. His assistant Yves Saint Laurent took over the brand and becoming an instant success even at the age of 21. Till this day Dior’s creative impacts still pave the way with luxury fashion. 1
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MARIA GRAZIA CHIURI Feminist powerhouse and Dior’s current Artistic director Maria Grazia Chiuri was born and raised in Rome. Sourcing some of her inspiration from her mother who was a dressmaker. Chiuri had studied at Istituto Europeo di Design, a private design school focusing on fashion, design and visual communication. (Business of fashion) After graduating, she had secured a job at Fendi, meeting Pier Paolo Piccioli. Chiuri had insisted that Piccioli should be hired at Fendi. As said by Chiuri to W in 2014, “ I think things much better to share a vision in fashion”.(H.Moss 2016) In 1999, Valentino Garavani had handpicked Chiuri and Piccioli to design accessories for Valentino. (H.Moss 2016). The duo had begun to manage the creative direction for the Red
Valentino diffusion collection in 2003 and by 2008 they were both named co-creative directors at Valentino. Chiuri and Piccioli really grew the brand as they redefined the codes and by 2015, the business had reached US$1Billion in revenue. After spending 17 years at Valentino and just 9 months after Raf Simons stepped down as Artistic Director at Dior, Chiuri stepped up to the role. Chiuri became the first female artistic director at Dior, debuting her collection in September 2016 for Paris Fashion Week. Throughout the collection and many of collections since, make multiple feminist references. She continues to revive Dior’s codes, even bringing back the Saddle bag. Chiuri also continues to work with different artist for Dior’s collections.
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FEMINISM Chiuri has always included hallmarks of feminism into her collections, so there was no surprise with the Dior 2021 Cruise collection. Chiuri made sure she includes more female artists. In this collection she worked with contemporary feminist artist Marinella Senatore to create the luminaire lining the piazza. (H. Militano 2020) Over the years Chiuri has deepened her knowledge surrounding feminism. Chiuri continues to empower women through her works and said by herself, “I want to share this platform with other women so that people can also listen to their voices.” (Cited in A. Okeowo 2020)
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ARTIST COLLABORATION Art has been main source of inspiration with Dior, starting with the man himself and owning a gallery before dominating his way through fashion. Maria Grazia Chiuri has a love with working artists for her collections, so it comes as no surprise to see the influence in the Cruise collection. The collection campaign reflects a painting from the renaissance. The still life captured through the lens of female photographer, Elina Keichicheva. It follows as the recurring theme of feminism goes hand in hand with Chiuri working with different female artists.
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“ There is a new generation of clients who might be young but they really apperciate craftmanship and quality” - Maria Grazia Chiuri
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CRAFTSMANSHIP 2020 a true year of unprecedented times. It was a year to reconnect with passions and that’s what Chiuri did with the Dior 2021 Cruise Collection. It was important to pay a homage to her home country and bring people together. (N.Phelps 2020) It is the Italian traditional arts and crafts that are weaved into this collection that really make it. Chiuri made sure to include a various of different crafts people through the collection and the show itself. (J. Carreon 2020) Chirui appreciation for craftsmanship all stems from watching her grandmother work. As said by Chiuri herself, “ It’s important for the local people to understand the value of their tradition.” (Cited in N. Phelps 2020)
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“ A type of strong cotton cloth that is usually blue and is used for making clothes, especially jeans.” Oxford Dictionary Denim and Dior go hand in hand. The theme surrounding the 2021 Cruise collection with craftsmanship, makes it quite complimentary when you think of denim and its hallmarks. Denim had gained its popularity for its durability and functionally. Dior had also featured denim in more aesthetic way, a great example we see is the Dior 2020 cruise collection campaign. The best way to showcase denim through luxury, is highlighting the aesthetics. That’s exactly what happened with these campaign images. We see several images of the garments, textiles and important details that would go unnoticed if it was shot in denim functional way.
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2021 CRUISE COLLECTION
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E 2021 14
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GLOBAL MARKET This detailed white dress would complement the romantic aesthetic in Europe. Somewhere in the south of France, would be a perfect example, especially during the summer months. In the warmer season, we see flowy and romantic dresses. The material of the dress, makes it perfect for the season and also comfortable as well. Dior sales in France especially, bought in about 8% of the revenue just in 2020 alone. So, it would be no surprise to see something like this be sold in the summer. In this look, we see a matching navy and colourful tie dye jacket and pants. This look could be typically seen and sold in North America. This casual and fun look would work the best being sold in Los Angeles. The fashion in this location is typically casual with a bit of street-wear influence as well. This look also targets more of a younger demographic compared to many of the looks from the 2021 Cruise collection. The colourful tie dye can be reflected in the fun and carefree culture that surrounds L.A. In L.A the weather would be quite warm for this look, so we would see this as more of a night-time or towards the winter months for this overall look. About 24% of Dior’s revenue last year came from the United States. Moscow has quite history when it comes to Dior. Since 1959, when Dior came and held a fashion show there. Moscow climate is quite well known for its cold season, so for this look we see quite a few layers. The boots are a great addition, fashionable and serve a function for snow walks. The jacket volume paired with the corset and shirt, add that warmth needed for the cooler seasons ahead.
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Face Primer ₩53,500.00 Foundation ₩80,000.00 Face Powder ₩60,000.00 Concealer ₩55,100.00 Blush ₩65,300.00 Eyeshadow ₩75,000.00 Mascara ₩48,500.00 Earrings ₩1,050,000.00 Necklace ₩1,150,700.00 Headscarf ₩460,000.00 Blouse ₩2,300,000.00 Under Top Garment ₩1,650,500.00 Corset ₩3,180,000.00 Jeans ₩1,650,500.00 Bracelet ₩6,950,000.00 x2 Rings ₩4,300,500.00 x3 Bag ₩7,200,600.00 Shoes ₩1,400,000.00 Total: ₩47,281200.00
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LISA MANOBAN 리사
Lalisa (Lisa) is from a popular Korean girl group called Black Pink. Is originally from Thailand and began her journey after winning a YG Entertainment competition. Is the youngest out of the group and is well known for her rapping and dancing skills. Manoban is known for her different looks and isn’t afraid to break the rules with fashion. Manoban even created controversy over her outfit to Prada’s 2020 fall show, wearing a metallic set with socks and heels. Majority of the time we see Manoban in a street style and loves to layer, but won’t shy away from a elegant look.
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LISA MANOBAN
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국립현대미술관
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DIOR KOREA In the rise of K-Pop over the last few decades, it is no surprise that Korean fashion has also made its way to the western world. Fashion and art itself have been highlighted by the government as the next ‘soft power’ (Minkoff 2020). Seoul has become one of the biggest hubs in the world for fashion. It was reported that in 2020, Dior’s sales South Korea went up by 75.8 percent (Hall 2021). In this campaign, the target audience will be under 25-year old’s. One of the most popular female Kpop groups, Blackpink have become fashion influencer for young adults. Lisa Manoban from the group is well known for her fashion sense and boldness. Though many may not be able to afford some of Dior’s items, Lisa is able to influence those through her fashion pieces and how she styles them. The music industry has quite big influence on the fashion industry in South Korea, as many musicians are now starting to represent big luxury brands like Dior and showcase their style. The different combination of outfits is not only appreciated by fans in South Korea but also in western cultures as well.
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