5 minute read
Mustard Valley
by KATE BERNOT
While the grapevines sleep and the days gradually become filled with more sunlight, the vineyards of Napa unfurl a blanket of lush greens and golden yellows. It’s early spring, and it’s mustard season in the Valley.
Advertisement
The Biblical parable of the mustard seed speaks to the enormous power of one of the world’s smallest seeds. From a dot the size of a pinprick, a mustard plant can grow nearly nine feet tall, cascading down the mountains and hills of Napa in a blaze of brilliant yellow. But no one understands the potential of the mustard plant like Napa’s winemakers, who rely on the black mustard plant for much more than just its chartreuse blooms.
Three months after the last of the autumn’s rains, long after the last grapes have been plucked from the vines, the first shoots of mustard spring from between the rows of brittle, empty grape branches. Winemakers know that these plants are as crucial to their grapes’ health as proper rainfall or rich soil; they help the grapevines absorb nutrients and water, repel damaging nematodes, and prevent soil erosion. While the grapevines slumber, the unseen roots of the mustard plants work quietly beneath the earth.
California vineyards began to plant mustard as a cover crop at the turn of the 20th century, but the plant has an even longer history in The Golden State. Locals tell the story of Father Junipero Serra, a Spanish priest who came to the coast in the 19th century as a missionary. As he traveled north across the sparsely populated expanse, he scattered Spanish mustard seeds behind him on the path. When the Franciscan made his return trip the following year, he needed no map, simply following the bright swath of the blooming mustard flowers. (continued on page 22)
Most of you don’t think about making your own mustard from scratch. Why not? It’s actually easy if you are willing to wait a couple days. The main ingredients are mustard seeds or powder and liquid (water, beer, wine, cider, vinegar). You let that soak for a day or two, then add your seasonings. Done.
mustard seeds
There are three primary types of whole-grain mustard seeds: yellow/ white is the mildest and used mainly in American-style mustards and for pickling; brown, which is zestier and used in European-style mustards, for pickling, and in Indian cooking; and black, which is also used in Indian food. (Black mustards seeds are interchangeable with brown.)
mustard powder
Is nothing more than ground mustard seeds. The most common brand is Colman’s and is a blend of brown and white seeds.
whole-grain beer mustard
(makes 16 oz.)
1/2 cup brown or black mustard seeds, 1/4 cup yellow mustard seeds, 3/4 cup dark beer, 1/2 cup apple cider vinegar, 2 tablespoons packed brown sugar, 1 teaspoon salt, 1/4 teaspoon black pepper
Click to view complete recipe »
dijon-style mustard
(makes 10 oz.)
2 cups dry white wine (such as Sauvignon Blanc or Chablis), 1 large onion, finely chopped, 2 cloves garlic, minced, 4 ounces mustard powder, 2 tablespoons honey, 1 1/4 teaspoons salt
Click to view complete recipe »
Now, those blooms guide not Spanish priests but tourists and photographers, who flock to wine country in January, February, and March to witness the hills’ transformation. For vineyards, the mustards’ annual arrival is a sure portent of spring, enriching the soil before the Merlot and Malbec vines snap to life for another season. The mustards’ deep roots cling to the earth, preventing soil erosion while improving water penetration.
duck breast salad with mustard vinaigrette
(makes 2 servings)
mustard vinaigrette
3 tablespoons minced shallots (about 2 medium shallots), 2 1/2 tablespoons Dijon or whole-grain mustard, 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar, 2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar, 1 clove garlic, minced, 3/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil, sea salt, black pepper
salad
1 tablespoon white vinegar, 2 quail eggs, 4 cups baby spinach, 1 baby yellow beet, peeled and very thinly sliced, 8 ounces smoked duck breast, cut into bite-size pieces
Click to view complete recipe »
For organic and biodynamic winemakers especially, mustard is worth its weight in gold. The plants give nitrogen and other beneficial nutrients back to the soil, reducing the need for chemically-based fertilizers. The plants’ leaves and flowers also create an Edenic refuge for birds and insects that eat harmful species among the grapes. In a seemingly wild burst of vine and flower, an entire symbiotic ecosystem silently pulses, one plant supporting the other, each playing a natural role in a delicate relationship.
A platter of cured meats, tiny spring vegetables, hard-boiled eggs and capers is the quintessential companion to just about any type of mustard.
Of course, most people have no opportunity to witness this silent cooperation. Mustard reaches them in its edible form: the seeds left whole or crushed, bruised, or ground into a paste that adds a familiar tangy flavor.
More than likely, this mustard did not come from a vineyard, but it could have come from the same plant, the Brassica nigra. The raw seeds come to life with just the addition of salt, vinegar, and sugar, lending a spicy and sour counterpoint to richer meat dishes, and subtly coaxing the nuances out of lighter vegetables when whisked into vinaigrette.
mustard & honey pork tenderloin
(makes 3 to 4 servings)
1 pound pork tenderloin, 1/4 cup Dijon mustard, 2 1/2 tablespoons honey, 1/2 teaspoon kosher or sea salt, 1/4 teaspoon black pepper, fresh rosemary sprigs
Click to view complete recipe »
two mustard cornish hen
(makes 2 servings)
2 small lemons, 1 Cornish hen (about 1 1/2 pounds), 3 tablespoons apricot preserves, 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard, 1 tablespoon wholegrain mustard, 1/2 teaspoon salt, black pepper
Click to view complete recipe »
facts for cooks
1. Cooking mustard significantly reduces its pungency. 2. Mustard adds flavor to dishes without adding fat or sugar. 3. Mustard seeds can also be fried or toasted and added as a garnish. 4. All parts of the mustard plant are edible, not just the seeds. Mustard greens are exceptionally tasty.
