Weather Permitting

WEATHER

PERMITTING

by JUDITH MARA

The only thing less predictable than spring weather is what will be the first offerings found at farmer’s markets across the country. Our advice is to grab what you can. Young, tender vegetables need little work or seasoning and they can be prepared in a myriad of colorful ways.

RADISHES

Radishes are the first full-sized root vegetable to appear at farmer’s markets in spring. Classic radishes are red but Watermelon radishes and French Breakfast radishes sell out faster these days because of how pretty they look and how mild they taste. They pair perfectly with spring lettuce and herbs in a salad.

“REAL” BABY CARROTS

Do not believe for one second the carrots labeled “baby” in the supermarket are true young carrots. They’re not. True baby carrots are typically long, slim, tender, and very sweet. More and more markets are carrying heirloom varieties that come in a rainbow of colors such as white, red, purple and yellow.

ASPARAGUS

Easily the most universal spring delicacy available at farmer’s markets. The most common asparagus are green, shown here with their stalks peeled. You’ll also find white asparagus, which are preferred in Europe, and purple varieties are also becoming popular. Wild asparagus are rarely available at farmer’s markets; you’ll just have to hunt down your own.

PEA AND BEET SHOOTS

Beet shoots are beets that are only a few days old, yet they already pack a powerful, earthy flavor. Pea shoots can be different young parts of a pea plant. They can be the actual “sprout” of a pea plant, or the choice leaves and tendrils picked off the pea vines. All pea shoots have an enchanting, fresh pea flavor. Mix a variety of shoots together with mild mustard vinaigrette for a simple salad. See recipe on page 23.

RAMPS

The popularity of wild ramps reaches near hysteria in areas where they are foraged. Also known as wild leek and wild garlic, they have a distinct garlic odor with a pungent onion flavor. Use to top pizza and salad, or toss in scrambled eggs. Many chefs serve ramps sautéed, pickled, or charred with grilled meats.

BABY BEETS, ASPARAGUS AND CARROTS

One easy farm market treat is to gently steam a combination of small spring vegetables, let them chill, toss with a bit of sea salt and serve as crudités. Perfect to dip into a warm bagna cauda sauce of olive oil, butter, anchovies and garlic.