Who's Hungry? Magazine | No 9

kathryn o’malley | Editor and Writer

Kathryn’s love of food is matched only by her passion for writing about it; as part of the Who’s Hungry?™ editorial team, she indulges in a bit of both. Her popular food blog, dramaticpancake.com, garners more than 40,000 unique viewers per month and highlights the people and stories behind great recipes.

judith mara | Editor and Writer

Judith has worked with Stephen for almost seven years and helps to lead the editorial concept and execution of Who’s Hungry?™ magazine. An award-winning former creative director for major ad agencies such as Leo Burnett and J. Walter Thompson, Judith sweats the details, pens Weather Permitting and literally hand writes How We Did It.

dannielle kyrillos | Writer and Television Commentator

A series judge on Bravo’s Top Chef Just Desserts, Dannielle is an expert on stylish entertaining, food, fashion, and travel. She appears regularly on NBC’s Today and The Nate Berkus Show, as well as on E! News, BetterTV, CNBC, CNN, and local morning programming in New York and Philadelphia. For Who’s Hungry?™ magazine, Danielle sought out the top five savory pies from around the country.

david sedaris | Humorist, Writer and Radio Commentator

One of America’s greatest humorists, David Sedaris is a master of satire and the bestselling author of Barrel Fever, Me Talk Pretty One Day, Holidays on Ice, and many more. He is also a playwright and regular commentator for National Public Radio. For Who’s Hungry?™ magazine, David treats us to a holiday fable in which barnyard animals take on suspiciously human traits.

Portrait by Hugh Hamrick

deirdre o’shea | Production Director

If you have worked with Stephen Hamilton, you’ve worked with Deirdre. Drawing on 15 years of experience in managing photography studios, Deirdre has a hand in nearly every aspect of Stephen’s business. She’s been instrumental in organizing the magazine’s shoots, sourcing ingredients, and always keeping production on schedule.

ian law | Design

Ian designed every aspect of Who’s Hungry?™ magazine with meticulous attention to detail and typography, and helped turn static images into an interactive experience. His award-winning design work has been featured in the pages of Print, Creativity, How, PDN and Graphic Design USA

audarshia townsend | Writer

Fueled by an obsession with Chicago’s vibrant culinary scene, Audarshia Townsend was one of the first two editors at metromix.com. And while she continues to write lifestyle features for the Chicago Tribune, Essence, Los Angeles Times, The Huffington Post and more, she also connects with readers through her dining and drinking blog, 312diningdiva.com. For Who’s Hungry?™ magazine, Audarshia shares a sexy, celebratory cocktail rooted in the Roaring Twenties.

a special thanks to: Bryan Kendall and Airstream of Chicago, Tim Burton, Paula Walters, Buffalo Trace Bourbon, Ashley Mastroianni, Tricia Schiffmacher, Ina Pinkney, Cece Campise, Ruth Siegel, Michael Anthony, Rick Bayless, Brent Ridge, Josh Kilmer-Purcell, Chad Robertson, Eric Ripert, John-Gustin Birkitt, Justin Brunson, Lars Kronmark, Tim Havidic, Molly Glackin, Johnny Costello, Benjamin Schiller, Mindy Segal, Elizabeth Falkner, Della Gossett, Paula Haney, Tom Hamilton, Juan Palomino, Andrew Burkle, Justin Paris, Raymond Barrera, William Smith, David Raine, Josephine Orba, Walter Moeller

Once the leaves start falling and the weather gets cold, I start gearing up for the holidays–all of the festive food, the comfort of family and all the unexpected surprises that come with the season.

LETTER FROM STEVE

As a kid, holiday surprises came wrapped as gifts, but now I see them as sharing fun and funny moments. That’s why I am particularly excited by humorist David Sedaris’s tale, The Cow and the Turkey. It’s a quirky tale that challenges the Thanksgiving turkey. Plus, we took a creative leap and illustrated his story with photographs and recipes for holiday leftovers from some great chefs.

It has also been fun to give “sugar plums” a whole new meaning. Sugar plums will still dance in children’s heads, but Tim Burton’s sugar plum persimmon purée is delicious and healthier than any candy we can think of. In “Sugar Plum Dreams,” four famous pastry chefs share exclusive sugar plum holiday desserts.

Speaking of famous chefs, we are refocusing on the fantastic ideas that they bring to our magazine readers. We invited chefs Eric Ripert, Michael Anthony, Rick Bayless and the Beekman Boys to share with us their best-loved apple recipes. In “Apples” you’ll relish classic Caramel Apples, a Fine Apple Tart, Apple-Fennel Guacamole and more.

You’ve heard of glamping…we had some genuine fall fun by adding a dash of glamour to tailgating in “Glamgating”––our latest twist on Stone Soup. With a gleaming Airstream RV trailer, Buffalo Trace Bourbon, a roasted pig infused with aged maple syrup and a guest list including eight of Chicago’s finest chefs, no one even thought of asking, Who’s Hungry?

Happiest of holidays from the Who’s Hungry?™ crew. See you in 2014!

STEVE, DEIRDRE, IAN, JUDITH, KATHRYN AND CECE

The season’s most seductive fruit is ripe for the picking, dangling from the treetops like so many colorful, shining ornaments. But what to do with all that bounty? For answers both sweet and savory, we turned to six of the country’s most inspiring chefs, who served up everything from comforting caramel apples to unconventional—yet nonetheless incredible—guacamole.

IN

by

KATHRYN O’MALLEY

PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEPHEN HAMILTON

View recipe on page 80 » caramel apples

Caramel Apples

No one does modern vintage quite like the Beekman Boys, Josh Kilmer-Purcell and Brent Ridge—and for proof, look no further than their latest cookbook, The Beekman 1802 Heirloom Dessert Cookbook. The beautiful nod to nostalgia is brimming with decadent recipes for old-time favorites like lemon meringue pie, blackberry betty and, of course, caramel apples. We can’t get enough of the salted peanuts set against the sweet caramel coating.

Josh Kilmer-Purcell & Brent Ridge

The apple is the most diverse food plant in the world, with over 2,500 varieties grown in the United States. They come in all different sizes, textures and flavors, with a range of colors including red, green, yellow and russet (meaning they’re covered in a slightly rough, brownish skin). Russet types may not be the prettiest, but they often have excellent flavor.

The best baking apples offer a nice balance of sweet and tart flavors as well as flesh that won’t break down as they cook. For a dessert with more complex flavor and texture, try mixing a few varieties—Granny Smith, Honeycrisp, Pink Lady (Cripps Pink), Mutsu (Crispin), Golden Delicious and Gala are all great choices.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEPHEN HAMILTON

View recipe on page 82 » gramercy tavern apple pie

Bohemian Apple Layer Cake

The co-owner of San Francisco’s Tartine Bakery with his wife Elisabeth Prueitt, Chad Robertson makes some of the best—if not the best—bread in America. But he also crafts some pretty insane desserts. Try this fragrant, autumnal beauty (from Robertson’s new cookbook, Tartine Book No. 3) that’s sweetened with prunes and raisins; spiced with cinnamon, cloves and nutmeg; layered with apple butter and prune compote; and finished with a smooth cider frosting.

Chad Robertson

PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEPHEN HAMILTON

Fine Apple Tart

You know that any recipe from four-star Le Bernardin chef Eric Ripert is going to be a good one, but if it brings together butter, sugar, apples and pastry dough—all the better. This elegant apple tart is made even more special with the addition of a small amount of apple brandy, called Calvados, in the glaze.

Eric Ripert

View

Apple picking season begins in late August and lasts through November. But because they keep well in cold storage, locally grown apples can be found well into winter. Of note, the fruit will ripen six to 10 times faster at room temperature than if stored in the refrigerator.

Apple-Fennel Guacamole

Wholly guacamole! That’s all we could say about this adventurous twist on a dip that subs apple for tomato, fennel for onion, and thyme for cilantro. Grab a bag of chips and prepare to have your mind blown—from chef Rick Bayless, we’d expect no less.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEPHEN

View recipe by Rick Bayless on page 84 »

apple-fennel guacamole

Michael Anthony

Executive Chef Michael Anthony is the driving force behind the iconic Gramercy Tavern, and with the release of The Gramercy Tavern Cookbook, his simple yet striking dishes are now even more accessible. In this one, a garnish of diced apples lends a perfectly crisp finish to a vibrant seasonal soup.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEPHEN HAMILTON

View recipe on page 85 » red kuri squash soup with brussels sprouts and apples

Despite straddling two challenging worlds as chef and teacher, Lars Kronmark has proven adept at handling both. In August of 1995, he was selected from among the finest culinary educators in the United States to open the Culinary Institute of America at Greystone. Since then, he has spearheaded new programs for industry professionals; contributed annually to the Worlds for Flavors International Conference and

Festival; traveled extensively for international education projects; and, of course, continued to make exceptional food.

As a teacher, Chef Kronmark may be used to asking questions—but today the tables are turned as our previously featured chef, Justin Brunson, quizzes him on his evolving career, favorite food towns, the country’s greatest chefs and more.

from the beginning of your career to the present, what would you say has changed most about working in a kitchen?

I think the technology, for sure. In the past, I must have made a thousand things the hard way. Certain things were done simply because that’s how it always was. But today there are a lot of tools and resources available to make things a little bit easier.

who do you consider to be the top 5 chefs in america?

It seems hard to give five names when we are so saturated with great chefs in an era of amazing food. I believe there are talented chefs in every state, many of whom never get the exposure they deserve. Go find them!

what are your favorite new food towns in america?

I kind of love southern Mississippi, New Orleans and Memphis.

what is your earliest food memory?

My dad was a hunter back in Denmark, and my mum cooked pheasant in a sauce made with mushrooms, bacon and red currants. It was to die for.

what will be served at your last meal?

Coastal Italian seafood like mussels, clams and raw tuna, with tons of lemon juice, olive oil and garlic. I’d eat it wearing nothing more than my swim pants, and a glass of cold white wine from the north of Venice in my hand.

by DANNIELLE KYRILLOS

Dannielle Kyrillos, a series judge on Bravo’s Top Chef Just Desserts and expert on all things food and entertaining, shares her five favorite Savory Pies the

Portrait by Peter Hurley

One of the innumerable reasons potpie is so beloved by so many is that by definition, it can encompass almost anything. It is a stew of leftovers, of vegetables and often meat, with crust. Anything needing saving from waste gets thrown under the lid. Which is why a slight twist on a traditional escargot preparation becomes like six tiny potpies, fancifully fit for forest gnomes and brunch-lovers alike. The butter and garlic are the broth, and the escargots definitely prefer these hats to their old shells. Church and State is one of the best American iterations of the French bistro, a pioneer in downtown Los Angeles. It is somehow industrial, airy, cozy and convivial, and by giving each snail in an order its own pot and piecrust, it makes two antique peasant dishes fresh and frisky.

Anyone from anywhere near Central Pennsylvania will describe the horror they felt upon learning that most of the country thinks “potpie” has a light, flaky crust. In our minds, potpie has no light or crust-related aspects, and its defining characteristic is thick, wet, dumplingesque noodles that are like kisses from a very snuggly Labrador. These doughy ribbons swim in a very yellow, gravy-like chicken broth that

simmers for hours on end with shreds and chunks of chicken, carrots, corn and celery. It might be where the phrases “stick to your ribs” and “cure what ails you” originated. The charming and old-school Plain and Fancy is in the heart of Amish country and its potpie exemplifies this style. Fair warning: It is hard to recalibrate potpie perspective after tasting this kind.

Classic. Crusty. Colonial. Fitting descriptors of both chicken potpie and perhaps the very best setting in which to enjoy it, Fraunces Tavern. Potpie is one of America’s oldest culinary marvels, and it’s rumored to have been George Washington’s favorite dish. In this very spot, one of New York City’s longest-standing structures, the founding father bid his loyal officers farewell in 1783. It’s debatable whether potpie was served

that evening, but it is now, and it’s everything the category should be: flaky, creamy and hearty. The very traditional version stands on its own merit, but taken in these woody, fireplace-strewn environs it is an archetype. Food snobs might care that a Dublin-based mini-chain runs the restaurant, but that in no way detracts from an authenticity every new restaurant seems to try so hard to create from whole cloth.

If, like front man and head baker Rodney Henry, you toured with a rock band and also knew how to make extremely choice piecrust, SMOG is precisely what you’d whip up after a long stretch on the road. It tastes like home: sweet roasted onions, earthy mushrooms, soothing cream, meaty steak, melty Gruyère. To work with that lineup, the crust has to be substantial but giving,

and it is. It is toothsome crust perfection. SMOG envelopes you and gets stuck in your head and is what you crave on a cold or sad day, catchy but substantial like a good song—not surprising coming from a musician such as Henry. His pie empire has grown to include outlets around DC and in Baltimore and he’s taken a spin on TV, but everything he sells is still made by hand.

Kind of like the musicians who play every night at The Family Wash in uberhip East Nashville, savory pies are the underappreciated heroes of supper. There’s nothing flashy about them, they haven’t brought anyone riches or fame (Marie Callender does NOT count!) and their guts are a hodgepodge of yesterday’s glory, but they make your soul warm. Served in those crinkly tin pans and hatted with luscious mashed potatoes and an endearing amount of really sharp cheddar, these

shepherd’s pies turn the dive-y setting and accompanying tunes into the spiritnourishing backdrop for a really good alt-country movie. Especially on Tuesdays, when a pint of good beer and a pie are ten bucks. There’s a lamb and beef version and a lentil-based vegetarian pie that has turned more than one carnivore, and like every other situation in life where roasted garlic is an option, “yes” is the right answer to that one. 37206

by JUDITH MARA

Glamgating is what happens when you add a dash of glamour to your traditional tailgate—with sensational results. It is also the latest twist on our Stone Soup feature, a semi-regular series based on the iconic tale of villagers coming together to create a grand meal that feeds the entire town.

Rain and chilly weather was predicted, but the Midwest likes its curveballs: The sun came piercing through the skyline at the very last minute, and it turned out to be the kind of autumn afternoon that Chicagoans can’t resist. It was a great day for sporting newbies and football fans alike to mingle together and enjoy the outdoors.

Because it’s tailgating season, a “glamgating” party seemed to be the perfect way to mix things up at our latest Stone Soup gathering. Of course, it took

some planning to get that “glam” part in place—we wanted to make sure this tailgate was unlike anything our guests had ever experienced. To that end, all the stops were pulled: a gleaming new Airsteam trailer; a roasted pig infused with aged maple syrup; an amazing guest list including eight of Chicago’s finest chefs; over twenty side dishes and desserts contributed by the chefs and other guests; hot apple cider spiked with Buffalo Trace Bourbon; and a surprise guest of honor––the venerable TV anchor, Bill Kurtis.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEPHEN HAMILTON | GLAMGAITING PORTRAITS BY JUSTIN PARIS

Friends of WH? came from far and near. First to arrive was Tim Burton of Burton’s Maplewood Farm. Tim came all the way from Medora, Indiana, bearing the gift of a 45-pound pig and his La Caja China (pronounced la caha cheena) pig roaster.

With a three-hour head start on smoking the pig, Tim filled the parking lot with the warm, smoky scent of maple and pork.

Meanwhile, Bryan Kendall of Airstream of Chicago in Joliet, Illinois, hitched up a new International Serenity RV trailer—a gorgeous silver backdrop for the feast that was about to unfold.

PHOTOGRAPHY STEPHEN

We love to see the magic that happens when chefs, food ambassadors and regular cooks contribute a dish to the same table. As always, the results were astonishing: bulgur wheat and Brussels sprouts salads, fresh spinach and artichoke dip, hot beef and vegetable stews, red wine caramel glazed apples, oatmeal cookies, banana bread, baklava and a glorious apple, persimmon and cranberry crisp. Slowly, a fall food theme emerged that had nothing to do with typical football fare.

PHOTOGRAPHY STEPHEN

Introductions were made as soon as dishes were handed off and cocktails were poured. Chefs enjoyed reconnecting with other chefs they don’t see very often. Everyone was happy to see chef Rodelio Aglibot (TLC, Food Buddha) and congratulate him on his newest restaurant. It was also fun to see chef Dale Levitski (Top Chef alum) the day after he returned from a cooking-filled summer in Montana. Plus, he brought the most gorgeous vegetable market salad ever seen in a concrete parking lot.

Chef Ina Pinkney (Ina’s, Taste Memories) reigned over the crowd and treated everyone to pumpkin cheesecake and heirloom tomato bruschetta. New dad, chef Giuseppe Tentori (GT Fish & Oyster, BOKA), went super-casual with a creamy and very cheesy shrimp mac and cheese that appealed to the child in all of us. Chef Michael Mech (Bungalow Chef) outdid himself with his grandmother’s German potato salad.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEPHEN HAMILTON

But the real showstopper—even in the eyes of the seasoned professionals—was the moment when Tim Burton and his son pulled the golden, glistening whole pig from its roasting box and carried it ceremoniously to the carving table. The pig was moist and juicy, the salted meat blending flawlessly with sweet maple syrup. Thirty pounds of tender pork disappeared fast––snout, cheeks, ears and all.

We can’t do it every year—and at some point we’ll have to settle for beer and chicken wings—but that’s exactly what made this glamgate so special.

GLAMGATING MENU

WHOLE ROAST

Tim

CHINESE ALMOND COOKIES

Sam Jorden (graphic

MARKET VEGETABLE

Chef Dale (Sprout,

BULGUR

Carol Hojem

BUFFALO

Ashley

GERMAN POTATO

RED

Chef Michael

OATMEAL COOKIES

Chrissie (founder/president of

HEIRLOOM TOMATO BRUSCHETTA

Ina

MINI BANANA

Meg Saherlie

MAC

Chef

BEEF

Doug

SPINACH

APPLE

The

PHOTOGRAPHY BY HAMILTON

BEGINNING to END

by AUDARSHIA TOWNSEND

With this year’s reboot of The Great Gatsby and the continuing popularity of HBO’s Boardwalk Empire, Americans remain fascinated with the Roaring Twenties. The romanticizing of a colorful era filled with images of flirty flappers, dangerously dapper gangsters and Prohibition never seems to go away—especially when it comes to cocktails.

At Chicago’s Berkshire Room, located in the trendy River North neighborhood, the craft cocktail lounge pays homage to the 1920’s in décor and drinks. The bar’s interior boasts its predecessor’s original terrazzo composite flooring as well as steel shutters from a Kentucky bourbon distillery. And the menu, of course, effortlessly dances between classic and contemporary elixirs, with the “barrel finished” cocktail list offering up some satisfying gems.

Of note is the newest addition, Beginning to End, made with rum, scotch and rye and aged approximately four to seven months in Atlantico rum barrels. Created by Berkshire bartender Johnny Costello, the celebratory sipper boasts the type of back story that would put a smile on Al Capone’s face.

According to Berkshire Room partner Benjamin Schiller, Costello came up with the name of the cocktail as he traced the travels of a barrel’s “beginning to end.” In the United States it’s illegal to use barrels more than once to age spirits (e.g., gin, vodka, whiskey), but bartenders skirt around the law by aging cocktails in used casks.

The time Beginning to End spent in the Atlantico rum barrels produces richer, heavier nuances, says Schiller. The finished product arrives to the customer in a coupe, showcasing a deep, mahogany hue.

What are Sugar Plums?

For almost two hundred years, children have anticipated the night before Christmas with visions of sugar plums dancing in their heads. The Sugar Plum Fairy, ruler of the Land of Sweets in Tchaikovsky’s Nutcracker Ballet, dances with sweets from all over the world. And Chicago writer Eugene Field wrote a famous children’s poem The Sugar-Plum Tree during the same era. Sugar plums were obviously something outstanding, but nobody really knows exactly what they are.

Children from long ago dreamt about sugar plums like today’s kids dream about Nerds and Skittles. So, many people have assumed that sugar plums were a type of candy or dragée. Others have concluded that they were a dried plum rolled in sugar.

Then it was recognized that historically all sweet dried fruits were referred to as plums (plum pudding anyone?).

In England, as far back as the 17th century, the word “plum” was thought to comprehensively mean sweet, delectable or delightful.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEPHEN HAMILTON

View recipe by Mindy Segal on page 88 » sugar plum and smoked almond linzer squares with spiced butterscotch cream

There are many words people use to describe the flavor of a persimmon.

To Purchase Burton’s Sugar Plum Pureé online visit: www.burtonsmaplewoodfarm.com Persimmon

Pastry Chef Mindy Segal sums it up this way, “[A persimmon] tastes like a cross between a quince and a under ripe pear”.

Grower Tim Burton says, “I’ve had two people say the flavor takes them back to the flavor of a Creamsicle”. We’ve also heard they taste like apricots and mangos or both. All this means is they have a mild flavor of their own and are very sweet––a lot like what you’d think a sugar plum would taste like.

American persimmons are related to Hachiya persimmons, the heart-shaped variety that is common in grocery stores, and should be handled in the same way. The fruit needs to be super ripe and extremely soft to the touch before extracting the pulp. If all you can get are firm persimmons you must let them undergo the bletting (sit until they are over ripe) process for a few days. Some people remove the skins, others only remove the seeds before puréeing.

sticky toffee sugar plum pudding and sugar plum gelato

View recipe by Elizabeth Falkner on page 90 »

PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEPHEN HAMILTON

Jumping across the Atlantic Ocean, American colonists were introduced to new varieties of “plums” by Native Americans. William Strachey, the first Secretary of The Colony, was the first to connect American persimmons grown on our soil to “plombs” (plums) in his manuscript titled Historie of Travaile into Virginia Britania , written in 1612.

“ They have a plomb (plum) which they call pessemmins (persimmon), like to a medler (fruit) ... they grow on a most high tree. When they are not fully ripe, they are harsh and choakie, and furre (fur) in a man’s mouth ... howbeit, being taken fully ripe, yt is a reasonable pleasant fruict, somewhat lushious. I have seene our people put them into their baked and sodden puddings; there be whose taste that allows them to be as pretious (precious) as the English apricock; I confesse it is a good kind of horse plomb.”

Strachey very accurately described this mysterious fruit, even though through time American persimmons have evolved into a bigger, sweeter cultivar. And, between beinga “plum” (sweet) and a “plomp” (plum), it is understandable how today’s growers such as Tim Burton of Maplewoods Farm in Medora, Indiana fondly call American persimmons sugar plums.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEPHEN HAMILTON

sugar plum panna cotta with bourbon barrel aged maple syrup

View recipe by Della Gossett on page 87 »

Not even knowing the complete history, Tim and his family have always thought of the persimmons that grow on their farm as sugar plums for very good reasons.

Their sugar plums are harvested from October through December. It is no accident that this fruit is harvested around the holidays when they plop to the ground, because persimmons cannot be eaten unripe. If you do, you’ll never forget the experience.

The acute astringency of a persimmon will wick all the moisture from your mouth in just one bite.

But don’t let that intimidate you. If you can get ahold of tree-fallen persimmons, store-bought persimmons that you have bletted (let sit) until crinkled and overripe, or frozen persimmon purée, you will have sugar plums dancing in your head with sugary pleasure.

“We forgo the traditional pumpkin pie for my wife Angie’s sugar plum pie or pudding; everyone can’t wait for the holidays because of these,” says Tim.

Replace our pumpkin pie at Thanksgiving? Some think that is sacrilegious. Others think persimmon purée is the best thing that happened to holiday desserts since pumpkin. To find out what expert chefs think, Tim sent four famous pastry chefs some of his sugar plum purée to create holiday desserts.

For all four chefs this was the first time using American persimmon purée in a recipe, and all four were more than pleased that sugar plums really do grow on trees.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEPHEN HAMILTON

Amended recipe by Paula Haney on page 92 » persimmon pie

The Art of the Wine Pour

BACKLIGHTING

Lighting directed towards the camera, from behind the glass, gives the wine a lovely, glowing hue.

FLAVOR CUES

A barrel in the background of the photo grounds the scene and suggests rich notes of oak.

Everyone knows that there’s an art to making wine—but what about capturing it on camera? How do you turn the wine pour itself into a piece of art? To portray the magic of wine in a single shot, you need to stimulate the viewer’s senses and most importantly, convey a sense of movement. Here’s how.

SPECIAL EFFECTS

A custom rig, created by Geoff BinnsCalvey, pumps wine continuously through the bottom of a wine bottle and into a special wine glass. Although you can’t see it, there’s a small tube connected to the bottom of the glass that lets Geoff control how high—or how low—the wine flows. This, of course, makes timing the photo much easier. by

KATHRYN O’MALLEY

PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEPHEN HAMILTON

The Cow Turkey and the

by DAVID SEDARIS intro and captions by Kathryn O’Malley

In this allegorical tale from famed humorist David Sedaris, an innocent turkey has the last laugh over the selfish, greedy cow who didn’t get him anything for Christmas. But as most of us (hopefully) know, the holiday season is less about taking and more about sharing, connection and generosity. That means if you’re serving dinner for family and friends, you’re probably going to plan for too much food. And that, of course, means plenty of leftovers just waiting to be reinvented.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEPHEN HAMILTON

The cow was notoriously cheap. So it surprised everyone when she voted, yes, for the secret Santa program. It was the horse’s suggestion and she backed it immediately saying, “I choose the turkey.”

“That’s not exactly the way it works,” the pig explained. “It’s secret, see? So we each draw a name and keep it to ourselves until Christmas morning.”

“Why do you have to be like that?” the cow asked.

And the duck sighed, “Here we go.”

“First you ask me to give someone a Christmas present,” the cow continued, “And then you tell me it has to be done your way. Like, oh, I have four legs so I’m better than everyone else.”

“Don’t you have four legs?” the pig asked.

“All right, just because you have a curly tail,” the cow said. The pig tried looking behind him. But all he could see were his sides.

“Is it curly, curly?” he asked the rooster, “Or curly, kinky?”

“The point is that I’m a little tired of being pushed around,” the cow said. “I think a lot of us are.” This was her all over. So rather than spending the next week listening to her complain, it was decided that the cow would give to the turkey and that everyone else would keep their name a secret.

There were, of course, no shops in the barnyard, which was a shame as all of the animals had money—coins mainly, dropped by the farmer and his children as they went about their chores. The cow once had close to $3 and gave it to a calf the farmer planned on taking into town.

“I want you to buy me a knapsack,” she told him, “Just like the one that the farmer’s daughter has, only bigger and blue instead of green. Can you remember that?” The calf had tucked the money into his cheek before being led out of the barn. “And wouldn’t you know it,” the cow later complained, “Isn’t it just my luck that he never came back?”

She’d spent the first few days of his absence in a constant, almost giddy, state of anticipation. Watching the barn door, listening for the sound of the truck, waiting for that knapsack, something

that would belong only to her. When it no longer made sense to hope, she turned to self-pity then rage. The calf had taken advantage of her, had spent her precious money on a bus ticket and boarded thinking, so long, sucker.

It was a consolation then to overhear the farmer talking to his wife and learn that taking an animal into town was a euphemism for hitting him in the head with an electric hammer. So long, sucker.

Milking put the cow in close proximity to humans, much closer than any of the other animals. And she learned a lot by keeping her ears open—local gossip, the rising cost of fuel oil, and countless little things, the menu for Christmas dinner, for instance.

The family had spent Thanksgiving visiting the farmer’s mother in her retirement home and had eaten what tasted like potato chips soaked in chicken fat. Now they were going to make up for it. “Big time,” the farmer’s wife said. And with all the trimmings.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEPHEN HAMILTON

The turkey didn’t know that he would be killed on Christmas Eve. No one did, except for the cow. That’s why she’d specifically chosen his name for the secret Santa program. It got her off the hook and made it more fun to watch his pointless, fidgety enthusiasm.

“You’ll never in a million years guess what I got you,” she said to him a day after the names were drawn.

“Is it a bath mat?” the turkey asked. He’d seen one hanging on the clothesline and was obsessed with it for some reason.

“It’s a towel for the floor,” he kept telling everyone. “I mean really, isn’t that just the greatest idea you ever heard in your life?”

“Oh, this is a lot better than a bath mat,” the cow said, chuckling as the turkey sputtered, “No way,” and “What could possibly be better than a bath mat?”

“You’ll see come Christmas morning,” she told him.

View recipe by John-Gustin Birkitt on page 93 » twice baked potatoes

TWICE BAKED POTATOES

This isn’t your mother’s baked potato. Chef John-Gustin Birkitt incorporates everything good into these stellar, twice-baked spuds: crème fraîche, ricotta, eggs, bacon and freshly grated Parmesan cheese.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEPHEN HAMILTON

NEW MEXICAN GREEN CHILE TURKEY Justin Brunson drew on flavors like chile, cumin and lime to create this Southwestern spin on turkey, perfect for nestling into warm tortillas and topping with cheddar, sour cream and cilantro. DAVID

View recipe by Justin Brunson on page 94 »

new mexico green chile turkey

Most of the animals were giving food as their secret Santa gift. No one came out and actually said it, but the cow had noticed them setting a little aside. Not just scraps, but the best parts—oats from the horse, thick crusts of bread from the pig. Even the rooster—who was the biggest glutton of all—had managed to sacrifice and had stockpiled a fistful of grain behind an empty gas can in the far corner of the barn.

He and the others were surely hungry, yet none of them complained about it. And this bothered the cow more than

anything. How could they be so corny? She looked at the pig who sat smiling in his pen and then at the turkey who’d hung a sprig of mistletoe from the end of his waddle and was waltzing across the floor saying, “Any takers?” Even to other guys. It was his cheerfulness that irritated her the most. And so, on the morning of Christmas Eve she pulled him aside for a little talk about the future.

“The farmer will be cutting your head off at around noon,” she said. “His son wanted him to use a chainsaw, but he’s a traditionalist so we’ll probably be sticking

with the axe.” The turkey laughed, thinking it was a joke. But then he saw the pleasure in the cow’s face and knew that she was telling the truth.

“How long have you known?” he asked.

“A few weeks,” the cow told him. “I meant to tell you earlier, but what with all the excitement, I guess I forgot.”

“Kill me and eat me?” The cow nodded. The turkey removed the mistletoe from the end of his waddle. “Well, golly,” he said, “Don’t I feel stupid?”

Not wanting to spoil anyone’s Christmas, the turkey announced that he would be spending the holiday with relatives, “The wild side of the family,” he said, “Just flew in last night from Kentucky.”

When noon arrived and the farmer showed up, he followed him out of the barn without complaint saying, “So long everyone,” and “See you in a few days.” They all waved

goodbye except for the cow, who lowered her head toward her empty trough. She was just thinking that a little extra food might be nice when a horrible thought occurred to her.

The rooster was standing in the doorway and she almost trampled him on her way outside shouting, “Wait, come back. Whose name did you draw?”

“Say, what?” the turkey said.

“I said, whose name did you get? Who’s supposed to receive your secret Santa present?”

“You’ll see,” the turkey said, his voice a little song that hung in the air long after he disappeared.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEPHEN HAMILTON

THANKSGIVING PUDDING Tim Havidic boundaries Chicago’s

View

by JUDITH MARA

TEN YEARS AGO you never heard much about kale. Yes, it was chopped and tossed into some Asian dishes, soups and sautéed greens, but I for one certainly didn’t know it was kale. And it was not something mothers nagged kids into eating by saying, eat your kale, it will make you big and strong. Actually, the first time I recall recognizing kale, it was planted next to fall mums in a flower box.

Now kale is loved, revered and cooked in every conceivable way. Scores of American chefs, bloggers, farmers, cooks and health gurus have turned us into believers, making kale almost as common as lettuce. Kale, the antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-cancer, anticholesterol superfood is everything we want in a vegetable. Plus, it tastes good.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEPHEN HAMILTON

WITH A MILD FLAVOR

when raw and a gentle cabbage taste when cooked, kale is versatile and easy to prepare, which is possibly another reason it has taken off to the extreme. When you see kale piled high next to squash and pumpkins, it is prime kale harvest time at the farmer’s markets and green grocers. Once the frost hits, kale still in the ground gets sweeter and milder. If you are a firsttime kale eater, this is the time to try it.

Kale is a humble vegetable that is related to cabbage and broccoli. It’s not like heirloom tomatoes (yet), where there are suddenly a multitude of varieties with cute names. There are only a few varieties of kale readily available. Most common is curly kale (aka green kale), which you can find almost anywhere vegetables are sold. It is a sturdy variety with the strongest flavor when cooked.

Our favorite is the tender cavolo nero, or Tuscan kale (aka dinosaur kale, black kale). Its long, slender, green-black leaves are more delicate and have less bitterness than curly kale. At farmer’s markets you can also find Siberian or Russian kale, which (no surprise) is the most cold hardy and has a cabbage-pepper taste. Flowering kale (aka Kamome kale) is very pretty with white to purple center leaves. While it is edible, it is also very bitter and is best used as a floral accent.

SOME KALE BASICS

When buying kale, choose bunches with small to medium, deep green leaves, because small leaves will be more tender and mildertasting than large ones. Store in a plastic bag in the coldest part of the fridge for three to five days. Don’t wash until ready to use.

Before cooking, strip the center ribs out of the larger leaves and discard. Wash leaves thoroughly in cold water and then pat dry. Tear into pieces, cut into strips or chop as directed by your recipe.

Kale also freezes well. Strip the center ribs out of the larger leaves and discard. Cut the leaves crosswise into strips and blanch in salted boiling water for 30 seconds. Drain and refresh in cold water, then squeeze the water out and freeze the leaves in quart-size freezer bags.

KALE IN THE KITCHEN

There are copious amounts of kale recipes on the web, and hundreds of ways to search for them. Kale is one of the few leafy greens that you can eat raw, sautéed, steamed, boiled, baked, fried and even drink in a smoothie.

It’s often served in soups, pasta, gratins and stews. It can be added to eggs, pizza, casseroles, salads, potatoes, quiche, mac and cheese and stir-fries, and it’s a perfect choice when trying to sneak a little something healthy into a dish. And we want to thank whoever came up with making kale chips.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEPHEN HAMILTON

View recipes on page 96 »

kale focused recipes

HOW WE DID IT

Deconstructing a shot from Stephen Hamilton’s The Restaurant Project

by JUDITH MARA

favorite dish

Restaurant

Restaurant: Hubbard Inn Chicago, IL

food stylist

Josephine Orba stylist Tom Hamilton

You’ll need a candy thermometer for these classic autumn treats.

serves 4

ingredients:

Softened butter for the foil

4 small apples

· 4 long cinnamon sticks or lollipop sticks

1cup granulated sugar

1/4 cup maple syrup or honey

· 1/3 cup water

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 cup salted peanuts, coarsely chopped

Line a baking sheet with foil and lightly butter the foil. Poke a hole in the stem end of each apple and insert a cinnamon stick or lollipop stick.

Bring a large saucepan with a couple of inches of water to a simmer. Keep at the ready for after the caramel is made.

In a medium saucepan, combine the sugar, maple syrup, water, salt, and cinnamon and bring to a boil over medium heat, brushing the sides of the pan with a damp pastry

brush to prevent any crystals from forming. Add the butter and cook the caramel, without stirring, until a candy thermometer registers 300°F.

Set the caramel pan into the larger pan of simmering water to keep the caramel warm so it won’t harden. Quickly, but very carefully, dip each apple into the caramel, leaving the area around the stem uncoated. Roll the apples in the nuts to coat. Set the apples on the buttered foil to cool.

caramel apples

by Josh Kilmer-Purcell and Brent Ridge, Authors and TV Personalities

fine apple tart

by Eric Ripert, Le Bernardin Executive Chef

makes 1 tart serving 4 people

ingredients for apple compote :

2 granny smith apples

2 tablespoons sugar

· 1/2 tablespoon lemon juice

1 vanilla bean

ingredients for glaze:

· 1/2 cup sugar

1/4 cup water

1/4 cup Calvados

ingredients for tart:

1 10-inch disk of frozen store-bought puff pastry

· 4 granny smith apples

1 stick of butter, melted

1 tablespoon sugar

First, make the apple compote. Peel and finely dice the apple, then mix with the sugar, lemon juice and vanilla bean. Place in a small pot and cook on a medium heat until the apple has softened. Reserve in a bowl covered with plastic wrap and chill.

Next, make the glaze. Place all ingredients in a small pot, bring to a boil and pour into a bowl. Let chill.

Finally, assemble the tart. Prick the disk of frozen puff pastry all over with a fork and place on a cookie sheet lined with parchment paper or a silicone non-stick baking sheet. Evenly spread the apple compote over the tart. Peel the remaining 4 granny smith apples and cut into 1/8-thick slices. Neatly cover the compote with shingled apple slices. Brush the apples with melted butter and sprinkle with the sugar. Bake in a 350-degree oven for about 40 minutes, until the puff pastry is cooked and the apples are golden at the edges. Gently brush the apple tart with a little of the Calvados glaze to give it a nice sheen.

Serve with whipped cream or vanilla ice cream.

gramercy tavern apple pie by Michael Anthony, Gramercy Tavern Executive Chef

Apple Pie – Gramercy Tavern’s apple pie is an annual favorite. They make it with a bunch of different kinds of apples (Winesap, Honeycrisp, Fuji, Granny Smith, and more..) but the recipe allows for using just one kind – or however many you have. It’s a warm, rustic, and classically festive dish for Fall and for the holidays.

ingredients for pie dough:

3 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for rolling · 1 teaspoon salt

10 tablespoons (1 1⁄4 sticks) unsalted butter, cut into small cubes and chilled

· 1⁄2 cup plus 2 tablespoons vegetable shortening, chilled Up to 1 cup ice water

ingredients for pie:

3⁄4 cup sugar, plus more for sprinkling

· 3 tablespoons cornstarch

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon, plus more for sprinkling 1⁄2 teaspoon salt

· Pie Dough

All-purpose flour for rolling 8 medium apples (about 31⁄2 pounds), peeled, cored, and cut into 1⁄4-inch slices

to make the pie dough:

In a large bowl, stir together the flour and salt. Add the butter and toss to coat with the flour, then flatten the bits of butter between your fingertips. Add the vegetable shortening, toss to coat with the flour mixture, and then flatten into pieces a little bigger than the butter. (Using just the tips of your fingers helps produce a flaky crust.)

Sprinkle ¾ cup of the ice water over the flour mixture and gently toss to incorporate. Use a rubber spatula to push the dry flour into the liquid, but do not stir the mixture. This gentle process of “hydrating” the flour without stirring makes all the difference. If the mixture is too dry and won’t come together when you gently squeeze a handful, sprinkle with another tablespoon of water and toss again. Continue the process until the dough just holds together, adding as little water and handling the dough as little as possible. Some dry patches and crumbs are okay— they will moisten as the dough rests.

Divide the dough into 2 balls, flatten into disks, and wrap well in plastic. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours, or overnight. The dough can be frozen for up to a month; thaw overnight in the refrigerator.

Preheat the oven to 400˚F, with a rack in the bottom position.

In a large bowl, whisk together the sugar, cornstarch, cinnamon, and salt.

On a lightly floured surface, roll one disk of dough into a 13-inch circle, then fit it into a 9-inch pie dish. Roll the other disk into a 13-inch circle.

Add the apples to the sugar mixture and toss thoroughly. (We combine the apples with the sugar at the last minute so the mixture stays drier and doesn’t weight down the dough.) Pour the apple mixture into the dish. We call for just the right amount of apples.

Don’t be afraid if you see them piled high. Cover with the remaining dough circle, then trim the excess dough, and crimp the edges.

Cut about a dozen slits all over the pie. Sprinkle liberally with sugar and cinnamon and place on a baking sheet lined with aluminum foil. (This way you needn’t worry about any juices that may bubble over.) Bake until the crust is golden and the filling is bubbly, 65 to 75 minutes. Transfer the pie to a rack and serve warm or at room temperature.

serves 8 ingredients:

1 medium fennel bulb, stalks and fronds cut off

1 tablespoon olive oil

· salt, to taste

1/2 medium apple (a crisp-textured one like Granny Smith works well here), peeled, cored and cut into 1/4-inch pieces

· 2 tablespoons fresh lime juice

3 ripe medium-large avocados

1 generous teaspoon chopped fresh thyme

· 1 large fresh serrano or 1 small jalapeño, stemmed, seeded if you wish and finely chopped

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Cut the fennel bulb in half, then cut each half into three wedges. Arrange in a small baking dish and drizzle with the olive oil. Measure in 1/4 cup water, sprinkle with 1/2 teaspoon salt, cover with foil, and bake until tender (about one hour). Cool. Move the fennel to a cutting board and pull off any fibrous outer layers, cut out and discard the pieces of core holding each wedge together, then chop the remainder into small pieces.

While the fennel is cooking, scoop the apple pieces into a bowl and sprinkle them with the lime juice. Toss to combine, and refrigerate until ready to use. Cut the avocado into halves and scoop the flesh from each into a large bowl. With a large fork, the back of a large spoon, or an old-fashioned potato masher, coarsely mash the avocado.

Add the thyme, chopped pepper, apples (including all of the lime juice) and the chopped fennel to the avocado and stir to combine. Taste and season with salt. Serve with Kohlrabi spears or your favorite tortilla chips.

recipe: apple fennel guacamole by Rick Bayless, Frontera Grill Executive Chef

·

red kuri squash soup with brussels sprouts and apples

by Michael Anthony, Gramercy Tavern Executive Chef

Tie up the bay leaf, thyme, cloves, and coriander in a piece of cheesecloth to make a sachet.

In a large pot, heat 2 tablespoons of the oil over medium-low heat. Add the leeks, shallots, and garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until the leeks are softened, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the cubed squash and carrots, season with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring, for a few minutes.

Increase the heat to high, add the orange juice, and simmer until reduced by half. Add the broth, allspice, cinnamon, and sachet, bring to a simmer, and cook until the squash and carrots are very tender, about 35 minutes. Remove from the heat.

In a small saucepan, cook 3 tablespoons of the butter over medium heat until it melts and the milk solids turn golden brown, about 2 minutes. Stir the browned butter into the soup, along with the honey.

Discard the sachet and set aside 1½ cups of the soup broth. Process the remaining soup in batches in a blender until very smooth and creamy, then pass through a fine-mesh strainer back into the pot. Thin the soup as needed with the reserved liquid; I prefer a thin consistency. Season with salt, pepper, and lemon juice, cover, and keep hot.

In a very small saucepan, cover the finely diced squash with an inch of water, bring to a simmer, and cook until just tender, about 3 minutes. Drain the squash, toss with the remaining ½ tablespoon butter, and season with salt.

Meanwhile, in a small skillet, heat the remaining 1 tablespoon oil over medium-high heat, then add the Brussels sprout leaves and toss for a minute. Add a splash of water and continue to cook for 1 to 2 minutes. Drain and season with salt.

Ladle the soup into bowls, then top with the diced squash, apples, and Brussels sprout leaves.

ingredients:

1 bay leaf

1 sprig thyme

2 cloves

1 teaspoon coriander seeds

3 tablespoons olive oil

2 medium leeks (white parts), halved lengthwise and thinly sliced

5 shallots, thinly sliced

1 garlic clove, minced

6 cups peeled, seeded, and cubed red kuri squash,

plus 1⁄2 cup finely diced

2 medium carrots, sliced

Salt and pepper

1⁄2 cup orange juice

6 cups Vegetable Broth (page 118) or water

1⁄8 teaspoon ground allspice

· 1⁄8 teaspoon ground cinnamon

31⁄2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 tablespoon honey

· Fresh lemon juice

Large leaves from 6 Brussels sprouts

1⁄2 cup peeled, cored, and finely diced sweet firm apple, such as Honeycrisp, tossed with a little lemon juice

Combine room’s beginning to (abbreviated version)

makes 4

ingredients:

1 c. sugar plum puree

3 Tbs. Maple Syrup

· ¼ c. light brown sugar

1 c. half and half

½ c. cream

· ½ tsp agar agar (available at gourmet stores or online)

Pinch of salt

Pastry chef Della Gossett, the medal-winning former pastry chef at Charlie Trotter’s, is now the executive pastry chef at Wolfgang Puck’s Spago Beverly Hills. Her Sugar Plum Panna Cotta is simple to make, delicious and turns a classic recipe into world class holiday fare.

Blend sugar plum puree and maple syrup together, set aside.

Whisk cream, half and half, brown sugar, agar agar and salt together.

Bring cream mixture to a boil. Whisk sugar plum puree and maple syrup into the hot cream mixture.

Immediately pour into molds or cups. Chill until cold and set.

When set, invert the panna cotta onto a plate. Serve with a drizzle of maple syrup, fresh persimmon and gingersnap crumbs.

sugar plum panna cotta with bourbon barrel aged maple syrup

by Della Gossett, Wolfgang Puck’s Spago Beverly Hills

sugar plum & smoked almond linzer squares with spiced butterscotch cream

by Mindy Segal, Mindy’s Hot Chocolate

makes 24 bars

James Beard Best Pastry Chef 2012, and restaurateur, Mindy Segal, created Sugar Plum & Smoked Almond Linzer Squares with Spiced Butterscotch Cream. She added almond paste and a touch of whiskey to compliment the sweetness of the persimmons.

ingredients for linzer squares:

12 oz butter (room temperature)

· 1 cup granulated sugar

1 ½ cups smoked almonds

3 eggs (separated)

· 3 cups of all purpose flour

½ tbsp. baking powder

1 tsp. kosher salt or sea salt

½ tsp. cinnamon

Pinch nutmeg

½ cup “sugar plum” or persimmon pulp

½ cup apple butter

¼ tsp. vanilla extract

Zest of 1 orange

to make linzer squares:

In a Cuisinart or grinder, combine almonds & 1 cup of flour. Grind until almonds are powder. Combine with rest of dry ingredients and set aside.

In a mixer, with a paddle attachment, cream batter and sugar until light and fluffy. Add yolks one at a time and mix until combined. Scrape bowl and make homogeneous. Add all dry ingredients and vanilla extract and orange zest Mix on low until combined. Scrape bowl and bring together completely. Spray a half sheet pan with vegetable spray and line with parchment paper. Spray again.Spread evenly on sheet pan (approx. 2/3 of batter). Combine sugar plum puree and apple butter thoroughly. Spread evenly on top of linzer batter. Combine rest of batter with the 3 egg whites and mix thoroughly until combined. With a pastry bag and a pastry tip (approx. ¼ in. diameter) fill the bag with batter. Pipe horizontal line from one end of sheet pan to the other about ½ in. apart. Then, do the same thing vertically to create a lattice pattern. Bake in a 350° oven for approx. 25-30 minutes. Let Cool. When cool, remove pastry from sheet pan and put onto a cutting board. Cut lattice square into 1 inch squares. Serve warm with a dollop of Spiced Butterscotch Cream.

ingredients for butterscoth cream:

1/2 cup light brown sugar

· 1/2 cup dark brown sugar

1/2 cup butter

1 tsp. salt

· 2 cups heavy cream + 2 cups for whipping 2 each cinnamon whole ½ whole nutmeg

1 tsp. whole black pepper

1 each vanilla bean

to make butterscoth cream:

In a heavy duty sauce pot, heat cream until hot While heating, toast all spices until hot and crush into a powder. Steep with the vanilla bean in hot cream. In another heavy duty sauce pot, over medium heat, melt sugars, salt and butter just until melted. Add hot spiced cream slowly, reducing a little before adding more. Strain spices out from butterscotch. Taste sauce and adjust seasoning. Should taste slightly salty. Let cool to room temp.

Whip remaining cups of cream to soft peaks. Add cooled butterscotch to taste. Preserve leftover butterscotch for later use. Can be stored in refrigerator for two weeks

serves 4 to 6

Chef Elizabeth Falkner has competed on Iron Chef America, been a judge on Top Chef and Top Chefs Masters and has had many other TV appearances. Already a lover of fuyu and hachiya persimmons, Elizabeth created Sugar Plum Pudding and Sugar Plum Gelato with Burton’s Sugar Plum Pureé.

sticky toffee sugar plum pudding and sugar plum gelato by Elizabeth Falkner, Consulting Chef, Iron Chef America, Top Chef Masters

ingredients for pudding:

1/2 cup persimmon purée

· 1 (8 g.) teaspoon baking soda

1/2 cup water 1/4 cup butter

· 1/2 cup brown sugar 1/2 cup maple syrup

2 eggs

7/8 cup (7 oz.) all purpose flour 1 1/2 (12 g.) teaspoons baking powder 1/4 teaspoon salt

ingredients for sauce:

1/4 cup butter

· 8 oz heavy cream

5/8 cup (5 oz) brown sugar 1/4 cup maple syrup

· 1/4 teaspoon vanilla extract 1/4 teaspoon salt

ingredients for gelato:

1 quart milk

· 8 oz heavy cream 4 egg yolks 3/4 cup sugar

· 1 cup persimmon puree 1/2 teaspoon salt

to make puddin:

Preheat oven to 325˚. Bring water to boil and add baking soda. Stir in persimmon puree and set aside to cool. Cream butter, brown sugar and maple syrup together in a mixer. Mix in eggs, one at a time. Stir in flour, baking powder and salt, add the persimmon mixture and stir until smooth. Pour into a loaf pan, cover with foil and place in a water bath. Bake for 35 to 40 minutes or until set

to make sauce:

Combine the butter, cream, sugar and syrup in a medium saucepan and bring to a boil. Reduce temperature and simmer about 5 minutes or until slightly thicker. Add vanilla and salt.

to make gelato:

Combine the milk and cream in a saucepan and bring just to a boil, remove from heat. Meanwhile, whisk the yolks and sugar together. Temper the milk (add a small portion) into the yolks and sugar and whisk. Add all the milk to the egg mixture. Pour it back into the saucepan and cook over medium heat until it thickens slightly. Add the persimmon puree and salt. Pour into a freezer proof container, cover with plastic wrap and freeze until solid.

to serve:

Slice or spoon some of the pudding onto each plate. Spoon toffee sauce over and garnish with a little more maple syrup, slash of bourbon (optional) and fresh pecans or walnuts. Finish with scoop of Sugar Plum Gelato.

·

persimmon pie

by Paula Haney, Hoosier Mama Pie Company (from The Hoosier Mama Book of Pie: Recipes, Techniques, and Wisdom from the Hoosier Mama Pie Company)

ingredients:

1 single-crust blind-baked pie dough shell

1 cup strained American persimmon pulp

· zest of 1/2 orange

3 large eggs

1 cup (237 ml) heavy cream

1 Tablespoon unsalted butter, melted

1 teaspoon vanilla paste

2/3 cup granulated sugar

2 Tablespoons dark brown sugar

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/4 teaspoon ground mace

1/4 teaspoon kosher salt

Indiana native, Paula Haney, is a pastry chef, author and owner of Hoosier Mama Pie Company. She also is no stranger to persimmons and gives classic pumpkin pie some stiff competition with her Persimmon Pie recipe from her new book, Hoosier Mama Book of Pie.

Preheat the oven to 350F (180C). Using a spatula or the back of a serving spoon, press the pulp through a tami or fine-mesh strainer. Place the persimmon pulp in a medium bowl and sprinkle the orange zest over it. Whisk in the eggs, cream, butter, and vanilla paste, stirring well after each addition. In a separate bowl, combine the granulated sugar, brown sugar, cinnamon, mace and salt. Whisk or mix with your hands to break up the brown sugar until thoroughly combined. Add the dry ingredients to the persimmon mixture and whisk until just combined. Pour the filling into the pie shell and bake for 45 minutes to 1 hour, or until the edge of the pie is slightly puffed and the center of the pie is dry to the touch. The top of the pie will color slightly. Cool to room temperature and then chill in the refrigerator for at least 2 hours, up to overnight, before slicing.

The baked pie can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. Do not store the pie at room temperature.

makes 6

ingredients:

6 large Russet baking potatoes

1/4 cup crème fraîche

1/2 cup ricotta cheese

2 egg yolks

1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese

· 2 teaspoons garlic salt

1/4 teaspoon ground white pepper

Juice of half a lemon

garniture:

· 6 scallions, sliced

6 strips of bacon, cooked and chopped

2 ounces grated cheddar cheese, divided

1 tablespoon lemon confit, minced

2 tablespoons chopped fresh tarragon

1/2 teaspoon garlic salt

Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Wash potatoes well and pierce several times with a fork. Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Wrap in foil and place directly onto oven rack for approximately 1 hour. When potatoes are cooked through, you should be able to easily pass a pairing knife into the centers. Cut the top third off the potatoes, scooping out approximately 80% of the “flesh” and set aside. You should now have canoe-shaped potato shells. Pass potato flesh through a food mill into a mixing bowl. Add all ingredients from the crème fraîche to the lemon juice. Fold together until well combined but without over-mixing. Reserve one third of mixture and place in piping

bag fitted with a large star tip. Add all remaining ingredients: bacon, cheddar (reserving half an ounce), scallions, tarragon, lemon confit & garlic salt. Fold to combine.

Using a spoon, fill each cavity of potato shells a little past full. Now using the piping bag with reserved potato mixture, pipe the top of each potato. Sprinkle reserved grated cheddar cheese on top of each potato.

Baked stuffed potatoes for 15-18 minutes or until a thermometer inserted into the center reaches 155 degrees. Garnish with a sprinkle of chives.

twice baked potatoes by John-Gustin Birkitt, The French Hound Chef and Owner

makes 8

ingredients:

1 ½ pounds New Mexico green chile peppers, roasted, peeled, seeded and diced

2 tablespoons grape seed oil or other clean-flavored cooking oil

4 pounds leftover turkey meat (dark meat is preferable)

3 cups yellow onion, peeled and diced

8 cloves fresh garlic, peeled and sliced

· 2 tablespoons ancho or other dried chile powder

1½ tablespoons ground cumin

12 ounces green tomatillos, husks removed and finely diced

· 4 cups turkey or low-sodium chicken broth

1 cup canned tomatoes, drained

1/2 cup cilantro leaves, roughly chopped

· 2 tablespoons fresh lime juice

optional toppings:

· 8 eggs, poached, over-easy or sous vide

16 ounces grated cheddar or pepper jack cheese

3 limes, quartered

· 1 cup cilantro, chopped

3 jalapeño peppers, thinly sliced

12 each corn and flour tortillas, warmed

· 8 ounces sour cream

Shred turkey into bite-sized pieces. Pour the oil in a large, heavy pot; over medium heat sweat the garlic and onions until translucent. Add the tomatillos and continue to cook an additional 5 minutes before adding all remaining ingredients except the turkey and lime juice. Cook at a low simmer for 1½ hours. During the last ten minutes, add the leftover turkey and lime juice. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Place your favorite toppings in small bowls and serve alongside the turkey.

new mexican green chile turkey by Justin Brunson, Old Major Executive Chef

thanksgiving pudding by Tim Havidic, iNG Executive Chef

makes 4

ingredients:

2 cups half and half

4 egg yolks

2 whole eggs

1 tablespoon salt

1 tablespoon butter

1 small onion, diced

4 cloves garlic, minced

2 large sage leaves

1 cup turkey leg meat, shredded

4-5 small dinner rolls, cut into 1-inch cubes

Preheat oven to 300 degrees. Make the custard base: In a large mixing bowl, whisk together the half and half, egg yolks, eggs, and salt. Set aside.

In a small sauté pan, add the butter, onion, garlic and sage, and cook over medium-low heat until the onion softens and becomes translucent. Remove from heat and add the shredded turkey and cubed dinner rolls. Mix together and divide into tall ramekins (for individual portions) or a small hotel pan (for one large bread pudding).

Pour the custard base over the bread pudding and press down. Let sit at least one hour, but preferably overnight. Cover with foil and bake in a water bath for 30 minutes. Remove foil and glaze the pudding with cranberry sauce. Return to oven and bake for an additional 10-15 minutes, until slightly browned. Serve with leftover gravy, if desired.

kale recipes

by Judith Mara kale chips

Preheat oven to 300 degrees F. Line a large baking sheet with parchment paper. Place 2 cups torn kale leaves in a large bowl and toss with 1 tablespoon olive oil. Transfer to the prepared baking sheet, laying all the leaves flat. Sprinkle with 1/4 teaspoon salt or other seasonings. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes or until crisp. Serve right away.

Note: The lower the temperature kale chips are baked at, the longer they will keep. You can bake them at 170˚ to 200˚, just increase the baking time to 1 to 2 hours. Check for doneness every 30 minutes.

sautéed kale

For the best results when sautéing, use Cavolo Nero or young, tender curly kale leaves.

For 4 side dish servings use about 1 1/2 - 2 pounds of kale, 3 tablespoons olive oil, 2 cloves of garlic––sliced thin crosswise, some chicken broth or water, salt and 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice or red wine vinegar.

Wash kale, remove any tough ribs and tear or cut leaves into pieces. Slice garlic and measure out 1/2 cup of broth. In a large sauté or sauce pan (with a cover) heat the olive oil over medium-high heat. Add the garlic, stir but do not brown. Add the broth and the kale then toss (a tong works best) to combine. Cover and cook for about 5 to 6 minutes. Remove the cover, and cook until the broth has evaporated. Turn the heat down, sprinkle on some salt and add the lemon juice or vinegar. Toss and serve.

grilled kale

Try this to accompany grilled steaks or sausages.

Heat grill to medium high. Wash and dry a bunch of kale. In a big bowl, add about 2 tablespoons of olive oil. Season the olive oil with any combination of crushed or minced garlic, red pepper flakes, fresh pepper, fresh lemon juice and/or red wine or balsamic vinegar. (Short cut: use leftover vinaigrette as the base.) Whisk the olive oil mixture and taste for balance and adjust. Toss the kale leaves in the bowl to evenly coat. Sprinkle with sea salt.

Position kale leaves on a portable grill pan and place on grill. They will cook fast. Grill kale for 2 minutes and turn. Check to see of they are crisp. If not, grill 1 to 2 minutes longer. You can cut any tough stems from the leaves before serving or just serve as is.

subscriptions

Hungry for a printed copy?

We now offer Who’s Hungry? mag by the issue and by an annual subscription. Order yours at whoshungrymag.com