Wildside Mag Autumn 2010 by rod macleod

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E C O T R AV E L • O U T D O O R A D V E N T U R E • C O N S E R VAT I O N

2010

SEA CRUISE

PHOTOGRAPHIC COMPETITION

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TOP HOT SPOTS

THREE TREES AT SPIOENKOP

MADAGASCAR WONDERS

WRITE AND WIN

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Perspectives Welcome to this first Wildside edition of 2010. Wildside is a quarterly publication so we pack every edition with a high editorial ratio. The editions are: autumn, this edition, followed by the winter on sale in July, the spring edition on sale in September and the summer edition on sale in December. In this edition you will find a diverse range of stories and places to visit, from the tip of southern Mozambique to the hills of the battlefields of KwaZulu-Natal, into the heart of the bush at Hluhluwe-iMfolozi, to Madagascar, and even a sea cruise. As an eco-travel, outdoor adventure and conservation magazine, we keep our eye on conservation and in this edition specifically marine conservation and are sure you will find the Project Bull Shark fascinating. Wildside Vol 10 No 1 of 4 2010 Autumn Edition

We are pleased to announce the Wildside Nikon 2010 Photographic competition, and bring you reader travel offers and one final chance to win Hi-Tec boots. There’s been a good response to this competition so far, and in the next edition we will be publishing the winners.

Editor Rod MacLeod – Cell: 082 782 3150 E-mail:rod@wildsidesa.co.za

Until next time, safe travels.

MANAGING EDITOR Jennifer Crawford – Cell: 082 329 1739 E-mail: editor@wildsidesa.co.za

C o n tr i b u t o rs

EDITORIAL All requests, submissions, including letters: editor@wildsidesa.co.za Advertising Sales Tora Roberts – Tel: 031 767 1512 Cell: 082 376 9115 – Fax: 086 6711 505 E-mail: tora@wildsidesa.co.za Production Editorial Offices Wildside Publishing PO Box 2292, Prestondale, 4021 KZN Subscriptions www.wildsidesa.co.za Publishers Wildside Publishing cc Printers CTP, Cape Town DistributION RNA Cover image: Photograph by Fiona Ayerst. Here Tanya Czerner, a member of Sharklife, swims with a Bull Shark in the Ponta region of southern Mozambique. See full story in this edition on Project Bull Shark pg 40. The Wildside magazine, logo, Wildside Travel and brand ownership rests with Wildside Publishing cc. Copyrights for material produced in this magazine belong to Wildside Publishing. All rights are reserved and no material from this magazine may be reproduced by any means without the written consent of the publishers. The views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the Publishers nor of KZN Wildlife. Readers who follow advice, expressed or implied, on activities and accommodation do so at their own risk. All competition winners will be anounced in Wildside only. Winners are requested to contact the manageing editor to claim their prize.

Nkosi sikelela iAfrica

Rod MacLeod An evening game drive with his family in the iMfolozi section of the HluhluweiMfolozi game park turned into a dramatic experience when they witnessed a lion kill. Rod is seldom without his camera at hand and as such captured images for Wildside. Rod is also responsible for numerous other striking images including the launch photograph for this year’s photographic competition.

Jennifer Crawford Armed with her recently obtained open water dive card, Jennifer went to southern Mozambique with friends to relax but much to her own disbelief she dived with bull sharks and in the process came across a ground breaking research project which appears in this edition. She then really went to relax aboard the much talked about Sinfonia cruise liner.

Eddie van Os A regular Wildsider and one of the ‘intrepid fishermen’ Eddie brings a pragmatic view to his Wildside experiences. Although employed by a large FMCG company he heads off to the bush, beach or berg at any opportunity, usually with a fishing rod and the other two ‘intrepid fishermen’ as company and on his most recent trip to Ponta Mamoli he took along a notebook and pen.

Lisa Kohler Regular Wildside writer Lisa brings insight to her stories and did this in no small way when she visited a lodge and was captivated by the history of the Battle of Spioenkop and unpacks this story about a lodge and a battle seamlessly. Lisa was also the pen for the Wild Weekend article and after reading this story it is as if you were there.

Catherine Burmester Catherine has worked on international reptile documentaries and articles, working alongside an herpetologist for 10 years which resulted in her fascination and passion for reptiles and all creatures. In her photography Catherine aspires to engender a sense of awe and appreciation for wildlife and the need to preserve and conserve our environment and its creatures. See her exquisite work in the Madagascar article.

Fiona Ayerst

www.wildsidesa.co.za

Fiona Ayerst is a director of Sharklife and a professional underwater photographer with a diverse lifestyle portfolio. Her passion is for water, both above and under water, and pushes herself to the limit to capture the essence, beauty and intensity of the world. Fiona’s powerful images of bull sharks accompany the article on Project Bull Shark which was also written by Fiona for this edition.

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Above: Gqoyeni Bushlodge, Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Game Reserve.

10 THREE TREES AT SPIOENKOP Discover this comfortable lodge boasting spectacular views of the uKhahlamba-Drakensberg and the famed Spionkop. Here you will be ensconced in a beautiful environment, and be inspired to explore this historic region.

WILD WEEKEND Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife has a number of bushlodges in their Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park offering affordable exclusivity. These unfenced bushlodges offer a unique experience as Wildside’s visit to the Gqoyeni Bushlodge proved.

NSELWENI BUSHLODGE Another bushlodge in the Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park is Nselweni, the newest addition. Read about this ecofriendly community driven lodge.

PONTA MAMOLI – SOUTHERN MOZAMBIQUE Although it is about to undergo a revamp, Wildside found Ponta Mamoli in southern Mozambique, to offer the same superb experience as it always has. The resort is situated alongside a bay which offers an almost exclusive-use beach, close to a variety of world class dive sites, good fishing, fantastic food and great service and, unlike Ponta do Oura, its popular neighbouring holiday town about 30 minutes away, there’s no crowds here at all.

PROJECT BULL SHARK The bull shark, also known as the Zambezi, has a reputation for being aggressive, maybe even a man eater, but some ground breaking research being done on these apex predators may prove differently. Wildside asked Oceans Research and Sharklife to tell us about their research.

THE MAGAZINE THAT TAKES YOU THERE

Panther Chameleon, Madagascar © Catherine Burmester

SEA CRUISE Statistics show that the recession did not adversely affect the number of bookings for sea cruises as it did other holiday options so Wildside went to find out why these cruises are so popular.

WILD GADGETS This exciting new section brings you interesting and useful items and information to get you there or use while you are there. If you have any special gadget you think is great then let us know.

TOP HOT SPOTS This edition of Wildside is widely distributed from the Wildside stand at the annual Indaba Tourism Trade show in Durban and as such Wildside has provided a platform for the many superb establishments to showcase their offerings, not only to the large domestic national readership that Wildside enjoys, but to the international visitors too.

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MADAGASCAR FANTASTIKA As the world’s largest island, Madagascar offers so much and in a previous edition Wildside wrote about the holiday options. In this edition Wildside gives you insight to the diversity that this island has. C

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COMPETITIONS AND READER OFFERS

My Story – Wildside readers have many wonderful

experiences and adventures and are invited to share these stories. The winner receives a pair of binoculars.

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Wildside African Photographic Competition 2010 Ponta Mamoli Reader Offer Sinfonia Cruise Offer

Why Wildside ? Tell us why you choose Wildside and win a fabulous holiday. Wildside is increasingly popular, with a growing readership, and we want to know more about you, our valued reader, what you like, and even what you don’t like. Visit www.wildsidesa.co.za and complete the questionnaire. 2 minutes of your time could see you winning a holiday.

My Story My Story is the page for what is really your story. Wildside invites you to share your experiences. It can be about a family trip to the bush, or a lone adventure to an island, a hike with friends, a special sighting, or about what you think of hunting, of places you stayed at, or good and perhaps not such good value in travel. It is after all, your story.

The Elephant Whisperer Fun Family When South African conservationist Lawrence Anthony was asked to accept a herd of ‘rogue’ wild elephants on his Thula Thula game reserve in Zululand, his common sense told him to refuse. But he was the herd’s last chance of survival – dangerous and unpredictable, they were also notorious escape artists and would be killed if Anthony wouldn’t take them.

The extraordinary story of one man’s battle to save his herd

Holiday – and an important message

Mark Dittke, a family man and environmental attorney who lives in Hout Bay, shares his when story.South african conservationist

From the Lang Esie´s Kraal Restcamp, we took the Acacia trail, which headed inland and gave us an opportunity for game viewing, before we went back to the camp and swam in the Breede River. It made me reflect if my grandchildren will see the same beautiful environment.

lawrence anthony

with graham spence

In the Western Cape, 374 000ha URGENT PROOF READING are critically endangered, KwaZuluNatal with 224 000ha which Date: Lawrence anthony was asked to accept a means “ecosystems that have herd of ‘rogue’ wild elephants on his Thula undergone severe degradation of What makes a family trip Designer: Thula game reserve in Zululand, his common ecological structure, function or enjoyable istobeautiful sense told him refuse. Butscenery, he was the Editor: a result of human adventure andoffun. We–hired herd’s last chance survival dangerous and composition as unpredictable, they wereplanned also notorious escape intervention and are subject to an a campervan and Editor: artists and would killed Town if anthony our route frombeCape to wouldn’textremely high risk of irreversible take them. transformation”. Tsitsikamma, via Oudtshoorn, Editorial manager: Prins Albert and back via but before he agreed to give them a home, While unpacking plastic bottles, First Proof: Worcester. The children were they could be moved they escaped again and the meat wrapped in a second the matriarch andwe her picked baby wereup shot. The excited when bag, I tell themSecond that:Proof: one recycled remaining elephantsand arrived at anthony’s the campervan started reserve traumatized and very angry. They tin can will save enough energy packing. escaped almost immediately . . . right into the to power a PC for three hours; waiting guns of poachers and park rangers. 16% of the money we spend on After a two hour drive we turned a product is for the packaging off anthony to Bontebok as battledNational to create aPark bond with the near Swellendam for from our first elephants and save them execution, he which just ends in the bin; it takes overnight stay. Atthey the had foota of came to realize that great deal to 24 trees to make one ton of paper teach him about life, loyalty andand freedom. and plastic can take up to 500 the Langeberg Mountains years to decompose. bordered by the Breede River, Set against the background of life on an the Bontebok National Park is a african game reserve, with unforgettable In this beautiful environment place of beauty. characters and exoticBonteboks, wildlife, this Cape is a lessons have a deeper impact. Mountain Zebras and 200 bird delightful book that will appeal to animal The next day, my children want lovers andcan adventurous souls everywhere. species be found, including to buy the stuff for the next meal South Africa’s national bird, the in an eco-friendly farm stall and I Blue Crane. think yeah, a good family holiday.

lawrence anthony with graham spence

When South African conservationist Lawrence Anthony was asked to accept a herd of ‘rogue’ wild elephants on his Thula Thula game reserve in Zululand, his common sense told him to refuse. But he was the herd’s last chance of survival – dangerous and unpredictable, they were also notorious escape artists and would be killed if Anthony wouldn’t take them. Thula Thula, an exclusive private game reserve which is two hours north of Durban, in KwaZulu-Natal, is a wildlife sanctuary and home to elephant, rhino, buffalo, leopard and superb birdlife. Lawrence accepted the herd of elephant and agreed to give them a home, but before they could be moved they escaped again and the matriarch and her baby were shot. The remaining elephants arrived at Anthony’s reserve traumatized and very angry. They escaped almost immediately…right into the waiting guns of poachers and park rangers. As Anthony battled to create a bond with the elephants and save them from execution, he came to realize that they had a great deal to teach him about life, loyalty and freedom. Set against the background of life on an African game reserve, with unforgettable characters and exotic wildlife, this is a delightful book that will appeal to animal lovers and adventurous souls everywhere. 4

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60 Years of Game Reserves M J Beaty of Howick has been visiting game reserves for over 60 years, his first being to Kruger in 1948 and the most recent to iMfolozi this month. During this time he has encountered the African wild dog four times. The first was 30 years ago on the Selati road between Skukuza and Lower Sabie. In front of my slow moving car a small pack of wild dog chased an impala, brought it down and devoured it in ten minutes. The second sighting was of four lazy individuals lying under a tree at the main road junction outside Skukuza. They were in no hurry and we watched them for half an hour. The third time was on the Skukuza Lower Sabie road and we came across a pack of over forty adults. Earlier this month we stayed at the Mpila camp in iMfolozi in one of the permanent tents. One evening we were on the platform outside the tent when an impala flashed past twenty meters away, chased by a wild dog. The dog was joined by companions, we could see their swishing tails and hear a great feast. Within a quarter hour the meal was finished. The next morning we walked to the site and all that remained was the rib cage of the impala. Wild dog is not often seen but in our experience, when it has been, it has been an exceptional event.

Readers Quill The letters page is an open forum for you to express your views and opinions on conservation issues, your experience of ecotravel and outdoor adventure. SHOOT PHOTOGRAPHS • CAPTURE MEMORIES • LEAVE FOOTPRINTS

Riding for Horses

We were inspired after we completed a 350km ride from Port Alfred to the Haven Hotel on the Wild Coast to embark on a longer journey however two of our horses from our Safari businesses came down with African Horse Sickness (AHS). The horses survived, but the severity of the disease made us feel helpless and we decided to combine the adventure of a longer journey with an AHS awareness campaign and so Riding For Horses was born last year. We are on a mission inspired by our love for horses through our journey on horseback around South Africa and aim to create a greater awareness of AHS, a highly infectious viral disease that affects horses, mules and donkeys. Our aim is to develop a complementary medicinal approach, to assess the economic value of the equine industry in South Africa, and to promote and develop government participation and a national approach to AHS. AHS disease is carried and spread by the Culicoides midge, usually in warm, rainy weather and usually at sunrise or sunset when the midges are very active. Because of great losses experienced in the livestock industry every year, AHS is a state controlled disease, and by law, owners are required to vaccinate horses, donkeys and mules at least once a year with approved vaccines. They are

also obliged to report any cases of AHS to state veterinarians. (Animal Diseases Act no 35 of 1984).

camps and I took this shot as it sat on a low hanging branch of a large "Broad-Pod False-Thorn tree".

There are three ways in which the disease appears. In the lungs (called dunkop) with a 90% death rate, the animal will have a very high fever, difficulty breathing, froth at the nose and it will die suddenly. In the heart (dikkop) with a 50% death rate, the animal will have fever, swelling of the head and eyes, colic symptoms and difficulty swallowing, bleeding in the membranes of the eyes and mouth and a slow death of between four to eight days.

I was hoping that I might be able to capture a nice lazy yawn from the dozy primate and the next moment I could hardly believe it when it the little fella obliged. It was the only yawn he gave, but I couldn't stop smiling the moment I looked at the screen of my little Sony CyberShot. I knew I had nailed it. Ok, the title ‘Primordial Scream’ does not really describe this action, but if one didn't know that it was busy yawning it could very much look like a primal outcry of some sort.

It took a year of planning and we started in July 2009. Our journey has already taken us from Durban to the Mozambican border, to Mpumalanga and Limpopo. We are now back on the Limpopo River near Stockpoort and heading West. Our ride is largely self- funded. For those interested in making a donation to help us or our cause visit our website: www.ridingforhorses.co.za or email us on lloyd@ridingforhorses. co.za Please report all confirmed or suspected cases of African Horse Sickness to the African Horse Sickness Trust via their website www.africanhorsesickness.co.za Lloyd Gillespie Isabel Wolf

Primordial Scream This vervet monkey with the large canines was photographed along the H4-1 Main Road, between Skukuza and Lower Sabie rest

Bearing teeth while yawning is no sign of aggression – a giveaway is the closed eyes. However, if this monkey had its eyes wide open, while it showed those canines, and it was charging at you, you’d realise how frightening it is. I know, I've experienced it as a child. The problem is when people feed the monkeys they become accustomed to being fed and once there is no food offered, they will grab anything from peoples’ hands, be it food or not. Vervet monkeys are slight in build compared to some other monkeys, but still a male could reach up to ±70cm standing upright. Those fangs can do a lot more damage than just tearing your clothes. The lesson is, don’t feed the animals, stick to taking photos.

It was absolutely wonderful to win all these prizes. Thank you for running the competition. It was great fun and the quality of the photographs entered was really excellent. During early April 2010 we will be enjoying the other segment of my prize, a weekend at the White Elephant Lodge, and I am sure I'll return with some wonderful photos to share with all of you. Many, many thanks. From a still smiling and very happy Anna Eksteen

Loot Eksteen

Dear Editor As the overall winner off the 2009 photographic competition I would like to give "a big thank you" to the following people: The organisers, Wildside, the sponsors Canon SA and Dr Heinz and Debbie Köhrs from The White Elephant Lodge, as well as One Thread who delivered my prize safely. I was so thrilled when I received the call from Rod MacLeod of Wildside informing me that I was the winner of the 2009 competition. I had to hand the phone to my husband to provide my particulars and to complete the conversation.

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I want to encourage any person, who has a camera, to go out and enjoy nature and maybe even if it is just in your backyard, but click away and never think your photos not good enough. It's not long since I started taking photos and I only do it for the love of nature and the relaxation it provides me as person. Anybody could be a winner; I was and you can too.

Wildside Canon 2009 Photographic Competition Winner

THE MAGAZINE THAT TAKES YOU THERE

WINNER Congratulations to J Beaty you have won a pair of CPC Phase 2 binoculars from Whysalls. To redeem your prize contact editor@wildsidesa.co.za.

Standing in a howling wind an magnificent display of lightning covers the northern uKhahlamba

Drakensberg World Heritage site seen from the ridge above Spioenkop Dam, KwaZulu-Natal. Camera: Canon 5D II, Lens:16- 34mm 2.8f, Exposure 30sec, ISO400.

WILDSIDE AFRICA Photographic Competition 2010/2011

Call for Entries

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WILDSIDE AFRICA PHOTOGRAPHIC COMPETITION 2010/2011 Wildside Magazine and Nikon are proud to announce the Wildside Africa Photographic Competition for 2010/2011. Any scene, any subject, as long as its taken on African soil or any of her exotic neighbouring islands. Enter up to 3 pictures per quarter . One winner will be chosen per quarter and will receive Nikon binoculars valued at R2 000. These waterproof binoculars (up to 1m for 5 minutes) are fog-free, have a higheyepoint design which provides a clear field of view even for eyeglass wearers. Other features include turn-and-slide rubber eyecups with multi-click which facilitate easy positioning of eyes at the correct eyepoint; Multilayer-coated lenses and large objective diameter for optimal image clarity; Rubber armouring for shock resistance and a firm, comfortable grip; Eco-glass optics are free of lead and arsenic.

The Grand Prize To see the grand prize log on to:

w w w.wildsidesa.co. za

Take your best shot Terms and conditions apply

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Three Trees, a Hill, a Lodge and a Bloody Battle

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The pages of history come alive at this irresistible lodge in northern KwaZulu-Natal. Wildside headed to the hills.

A horse trots up to the car window and allows us, to our delight, to stroke its soft muzzle. Even before we’ve closed the gate at the entrance to Three Tree Hill Lodge the friendly tone is set. Owners Simon and Cheryl Blackburn welcome us warmly as we pull up outside reception. Cheryl urges, “Don’t worry about the baggage, we’ll sort that out. Quick, follow Simon up the hill. You can meet the rest of the gang just before the sun sets.” On a grassy knoll above the lodge, guests gather around tables of white linen, silver ice buckets and snacks. Feeling terribly colonial with our ‘G&Ts’ in hand, we admire the view. Before us are the magnificent Drakensberg mountains. Below in the Mfazimnyama Valley is the silvery mirror of Spioenkop Dam, and behind, that famous hill. “Is that Spioenkop?” we ask. Simon nods and introduces us to Omri Nene, the lodge’s on-site Battlefield Guide. Zululand born and fluent in French, Omri is a UKZN graduate with a drama background. An WILDSIDE 1of4 2010

articulate storyteller, Omri tempts us with fascinating facts about the AngloBoer War (1899 – 1902). Caught up in conversation, it’s already dark as we follow the path back down to the lodge, eager to tour Spioenkop the next day. Evidence of the area’s rich history is displayed on the walls of the lodge’s lounge. Reminiscent of its colonial past, the lodge’s galvanized iron architecture has generous wrap-around verandahs – the perfect place to relax. Wildside found Three Trees’ design style a refreshing alternative to the plethora of proverbial ‘game lodge style’ that abounds. While dress code is strictly relaxed, Three Trees retains all the trappings of gracious living, including excellent food and personalized service. The Blackburn’s pride themselves on the lodge being owner-managed. It shows in the care given to detail. With its six standard luxury twin suites and 2-bedroomed family suite, the lodge is intimate without being intrusive. As Cheryl Blackburn indicates, “Three Trees is the only small luxury lodge in this area with access to the ’Berg”. Simon and Cheryl Blackburn are both experienced safari and mountain guides,

and are quick to point out that Three Trees is not just about battlefield tours but also offers excellent birding, horse trails, hiking, bush walks and mountain biking. “While guests are welcome to stay for any length of time, I think the ideal stay is three nights,” Cheryl says. She goes on to explain, “It gives guests a chance to not only do the battlefields, but also fit in a ’Berg experience like the Gorge Walk.” Asked about the lodge’s flagship tour of Spioenkop, Simon explains why it is so popular with guests. “Since the Battle’s 110 year anniversary we’ve seen a tremendous resurgence of interest. What I love about the Battlefield’s tour of Spioenkop is that it is contained in a compact area. Then there are the lessons to learn about strategy, planning and communication. It is a gripping human drama.” That evening after an excellent meal and good company, we watch a storm building in the far distance. We take our seats on the verandah just as the tempest breaks over Spioenkop. Spectacular flashes silhouette the hill. Thunderous booms explode around us. It’s nature doing the trailer for the full-length feature – The Battle of Spioenkop.

The Grand Stand Battle of Spioenkop It’s a grandstand view of northern KwaZulu-Natal from the top of Spioenkop (430 m in height). To the west is the muted swathe of the Drakensberg. To the east, hidden 30 km away in the hot haze, is Ladysmith. To the southeast is Colenso, and lying at the feet of Spioenkop is the glassy waters of the dam, and Three Trees Hill Lodge. “Ooh, got to have a dip in the pool when we get back to the lodge,” one of us says resolutely. There is not a breeze. Heat pulsates off dry, hard earth. Bleached grass is tinderbox dry. Heads down, we wind along the path following Omri Nene, battlefield history guide at

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Three Trees. We trace the outer edge of Spioenkop’s broad plateau, taking care not to stumble on protruding rocks. “Why would anyone feel the need to fight over this forsaken mound?” someone mumbles along our crocodile line.

Above: Omri Nene, an articulate

storyteller and the lodge’s on-site battlefield history guide, is Zululand born, fluent in French and English and is a UKZN graduate with a background in drama. Three Tree Hill Lodge, with its warm

family atmosphere, understated relaxed luxury, overflowing with authentic historical icons, 360 degree vistas of the northern Drakensberg and surrounding battlefields, offers stimulating activities for the outdoor family. Or you could simply relax, read and swim whilst soaking in the indigenous environment.

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– General Louis Botha and his commandos. In contrast to Buller, at 37 years Botha was the youngest general in the Boer forces. A charismatic leader who skillfully planned his tactics in careful consultation with his men, Botha was the antithesis of Buller. He was quick, decisive and adaptable.

It’s a fair question, but here at Spioenkop, in January 1900, one of the world’s bloodiest battles raged for two days. It was Goliath versus David –Britain’s mighty military against a bunch of Boer farmers, and the great British Empire lost. Its appalling defeat sent reverberations around the world.

Positional play The players move into position. The goal was to liberate besieged Ladysmith from the Boers, however the British had just lost the battle for Colenso. Everyone blamed ‘the coach’ – General Sir Redvers Buller. On paper he seemed the right man for the job. At 61 years old he had the experience, a distinguished track record with a Victoria Cross to boot. However he did have a fatal flaw – himself. At Colenso, Buller had forbidden his troops to dig trenches as it could blot the scenic landscape and not to crawl along the ground, as it would muddy their uniforms. Not the way to advance and win battles. No wonder he was derisively called ‘Reverse Buller’ by his troops. To him it all seemed an elaborate game. When Buller did make the call to advance to Ladysmith it was a 25-kilometer pageant. Besides 24 000 men, 15 000 oxen, 58 guns, ammunition and supplies, also included were ‘essential officer items’ – steel baths, gramophones, cases of wine, polo horses and even a piano. Needless to say, the Boers saw them coming. Hidden from sight behind Spioenkop and among its accompanying row of hills (Groenkop, Conical Hill and Twin Peaks), stood Buller’s opposition

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Botha’s men differed from the British not only in numbers but also attitude. While the British troops were career soldiers, the Boers were volunteers passionate about their freedom from British rule. However, sometimes that passion did not translate into discipline. Often Boers would move between commandos or return to their farms at whim. Botha had his work cut out in motivating his forces to keep up the good fight. Botha did have one major advantage – knowing the lay of the land. ‘Spioenkop’ adapted from Dutch, means appropriately ‘Spy Hill’ and the Boers had excellent intelligence of the British manoeuvres. Buller’s original strategy had been to outflank the Boers in a two-pronged attack on the line of hills either side of Spioenkop. That plan went array when his second in charge, General Sir Charles Warren, (known for his role in investigating the "Jack the Ripper" murders) impulsively decided to rather take Spioenkop. This was despite not having any knowledge of its geography. It was a strategy operated in a fog of ignorance, literally.

Game begins A thick fog had followed the Brits’ night attack on Spioenkop. The minor resistance from a Boer sentry is today marked by his nameless grave. It was not until morning when the sun burnt off the misty shroud that the British troops realized how baseless their victory shouts had been. While they had indeed reached the high ground, it was no advantage. Trenches were in the wrong position. The Boers, only a stone’s away, were hidden by the crest-line. The element of surprise was all the Boers, and they took full advantage. Using smokeless gun-

powder, Botha ordered barrels to train on the summit of Spioenkop. It was an easy target. The best the British troops could do in defence was huddle behind a miserly row of stones. The hard rocky ground of Spioenkop’s plateau had proved defiant to the troops’ shovels – mere furrows of about 40 cm deep. Besides, most of the tools had been abandoned in the scrabble up the hill’s steep southern face. Those shallow ditches became for most their grave. What follows is a saga of botches, bungles and bad decisions. Omri Nene guides us along the paths narrating the events of those terrible two days. This battle broke all previous ‘rules’. No training could prepare soldiers for the sustained bombardment of seven shells per minute into a mass of people packed into 300 to 400 yards of trenches. It was a killing field – an ‘Acre of Massacre’. Slowly, as Omri’s narrative unravels, the dust of Spioenkop comes alive with personalities. This is not purely the history of what happened a hundred and ten years ago, this is a human drama of greed, arrogance, tragedy, and tremendous bravery. History pivoted on this rocky acre of ground. Included in the drama are players such as Louis Botha, who later became the first Prime Minister of the Union of South Africa; a war correspondent called Winston Churchill; and Mahatma Ghandi who was a stretcherbearer for the wounded.

Scorecard Seeking relief from searing afternoon heat, we sit in the shade of a tree. Its cool shadow is cast onto an elevated winding line of white stones behind us – a mass grave. Beneath its stones lie soldiers from the Second Battalion Lancashire Fusiliers, the Second Battalion of the Royal Lancaster Regiment and the First Battalion of the South Lancashire Regiment. We are strangely quiet as Omri concludes his narrative. The tally is estimat-

ed 400 British dead and 1 400 British wounded or captured. The Boers had 58 dead and 140 wounded. It was yet another victory for the Boers. As we make our way back to the vehicle Gilly Merrick, a British visitor comments, “Many of those British soldiers must have come from Liverpool in Lancashire. Do you know what Liverpool Football Club called its supporters’ grandstand? The ‘Kop’.” It’s an ironic twist of history; in commemorating their fallen, defeat has transformed into steep terraces where team victories are celebrated.

Panoramic view from Spioenkop with the dam in the distance.

Harrismith

FREESTATE

R74

Phuthatijaba

STERKFONTEIN DAM NATURE RESERVE T

WILDSIDE Fact Tracker – THREE TREES AT SPIOENKOP Where: Take the R616 (exit 230) off the N3 towards Bergville. From Free State take the R74 (Oliviershoek Pass) to Bergville. After 19km turn left onto the D564 (Rangeworthy Cemetery). After 8km on this gravel road you will reach Three Trees. Accommodation: six standard luxury twin suites and 2-bedroomed family suite. Activities: Anglo Boer War Battlefield Tours, hiking &

R103

sentinel car park and mont aux sources via chain ladder

Ladysmith NAMBITI

little switzerland and two adults R4200 (low walking, mountain biking & witsieshoek sungabala R5320 (high season). season) horse trails, and birding montusi the cavern all out adventures Children sharing with parent Important to note: Bring R74 hlalanathi RUGGED R650. 23 GLEN Full Day Battlefield Tour good walking shoes, hat, R759 pp, Half Day Battlefield sunscreen, light long sleeved 1 thendele resort & camping and Tour R450 caravan parkpp, Horse Riding shirt and light windbreaker for THENDELE R295 pp. tours, walks and hikes. A tour Beacon Buttress 3121m

with the lodge’s guide is highly recommended. Cost: All meals included. Luxury Twin Suite R1190 pppns (low season) R1890 pppns (high season), Family Suite – cost for suite, sleeps 2 adults

N11

R616

R103

EXIT 220 P

Bergville

Contact: Phone: 036 448 1171, Cell: 082 379 1864, Fax: 036 448 1953, Email: reservamnweni tions@threetreehill.co.za. cultural

R74

Colenso

Winterton R74

centre

R600

CATHEDRAL PEAK

zintulo umzololozo nambiti plains

SPIOENKOP NATURE RESERVE three tree hill lodge

Sentinel Peak 3165m Mont-Aux-Sources 3282m

Cathedral Peak 3004m

CONSERVANCY

EXIT 230

caley lodge

DIDIMA RESORT & ROCK ART CENTRE

Windsor Castle 3065m

EXIT 194

the nest drak. boys MONK’S COWL choir NATURE RESERVE

R74

Frere

R103 R10

champagne valley resort

EXIT 179

Escou

Berg&Beach Bonanza CHAMPAGNE SPORTS RESORT & PUMULA BEACH HOTEL “In life there are three constants … change, choice and principles.” At Champagne Sports Resort and Pumula Beach Hotel we will be honouring our normal peak rates during the World Cup. Join us at the foot of the awe-inspiring Drakensberg mountains at Champagne Sports Resort or put your feet in the sand at Pumula Beach Hotel.

Champagne Sports Resort

Pumula Beach Hotel

Champagne Sports Resort, this cosy hideaway’s unique combination of convenient location, country club atmosphere, luxury accommodation and friendly staff makes packing your bags to leave a challenge. Just under four hours drive from Johannesburg and two hours from Durban, the resort is ideally situated for both corporate conferences and relaxing leisure weekends. Following recent hotel developments, the resort can now accommodate up to 700 delegates at the foot of the majestic Drakensberg Mountains. The site now boasts 12 conference venues including the new stateof-the-art Summit Exhibition Centre, and the new 1 000-seater Sentinel Room, while the smaller, more intimate rooms seat between 18 and 380 delegates.

Pumula Beach Hotel is situated alongside the spectacular warm Indian ocean and offers something for the whole family. Offering a heated salt water pool and toddlers paddling pool, Jungle gym and trampolines, 9 hole mini-golf course, Children’s games room, Volleyball court, Adult Pub and 4 fully equipped conference rooms. Our protected beach is ideal for swimming and surfing with rock pools for children to enjoy. Stebel Rocks offer vast open space and is excellent for fishing. We also offer a children’s entertainment programme during peak periods. Nearby attractions include whale and dolphin viewing trips, a choice of well known golf courses, tennis courts, bowling greens and bird watching as well as the breathtaking Oribi gorge.

Enjoy the world cup with us at our award winning family resorts. We’ll raise the roof for the world cup, but not our prices!

Champagne Sports Resort and Pumula Beach Hotel … where friends and family meet.

The Mountains are Calling The Winter edition of Wildside will feature the uKhahlambaDrakensberg so be sure you are in this successful annual feature edition. From the Southern â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Berg to the Central and Northern â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Berg, from the smallest bed and breakfast to the biggest lodge, including all the exciting activities in this majestic environment, you can be part of this feature. Contact Tora Roberts to find out about the special available to uKhahlamba-Drakensberg establishments. Reach travel minded people through Wildside sold in CNA, Exclusive Books and Spar stores nationwide, as well as going to more than 7 000 subscribers. Wildside, the magazine that takes you there. Phone: 031 767 1512 or 082 376 9115 or email tora@wildsidesa.co.za

Gqoyeni Bushlodge Hluhluwe-iMfolozi, KZN

A Wild

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Weekend A family weekend away with international guests turned in a thrilling African adventure. Lisa Köhler pens her experience.

“Stop, STOP!” the blonde teenage girl shouts above the din of diesel. The game-viewing vehicle crunches to a halt, gears crank, and the engine whines in reverse. “There.” Heads all swivel to the right, and yes there, just eight metres off the road is a pride of lion, and in the jaws of a large female, the contorted neck of a kudu. We had nearly missed seeing them. Admittedly it was dark. We had been exploring Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Game Reserve’s dusty roads for hours. There had been good sightings of rhino – white and black, twenty owls and 30m up the road three alert lionesses rapidly disappearing into the bush. The game drive could already be notched up as a success and the Canadians with the young boys were now eager to return to Gqoyeni Bush Lodge. We could be back in time for supper. The kudu’s rear legs scrabbled frantically in the dust. Its half strangled cries riveted us to the spot. All thoughts of supper vanished. Caught up in the horror of the drama unfolding in front of us, we watched as the lioness readjusted her grip on her prey’s jugular. Terror shone bright in the kudu’s eyes as, too impatient for life’s ebb, a pair of the pride began to tear chunks from her soft underbelly. Gore-smeared jowls are raised in brief greeting as a regal male enters from left and claims his place.

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iMfolozi's Gqoyeni Bushlodge and surrounds: Search for elephant and rhino with Nunu Jobe, your personal field ranger, or settle for the more arduous task of playing catch-up with the elusive Narina Trogon (apaloderma narina) as it leads you on a wild bush chase. Night or day game drives can lead to interesting sightings – possibly hungry lions on the hunt or spotted eagle owls (bubo africanus), in wideeyed gaze as you pause to observe these nocturnal hunters.

Violent clashes break out between predators contradicting any underlying hierarchy – the fittest get the richest pickings. Even though it is now more carcass than kudu, we gasp in revulsion as two young lions pull out a fully formed foetus. The ensuing tug-of-war makes most of the women in the vehicle avert their eyes and cover those of the children.

breaks our silent trance. “That is the most incredible thing I’ve ever, ever seen in my entire life.” “Mine too,” replies his fifty-something father. “And in my life too, all seventy-eight years of it,” responds the grandfather. We make our way back to Gqoyeni Bush Lodge, eager for its orderly comfort and security of walls and doors.

escorts, the teenage girls forego supper, closing themselves into their chalet and opting for hot showers as remedy for sensory overload. The adults, out of respect for Nelson Nsele the chef, pick at the braai meat prepared hours before. With appetites gone, each quietly mulls over the incredible images etched into memory.

It all seems too graphic – the heartless violence of nature. And then, out of the inky blackness, shrill yelps announce the arrival of three tiny cubs. Soft, fat little balls of fluff, they creep closer to the fracas with irrepressible curiosity of youth. Their mom – the hunter that had crushed the kudu’s jugular, raises herself from feeding and seems to say in her glance, “Cubs, look and learn, this is how to survive”.

Relief is mixed with excited chatter as we pull into the bush lodge’s parking area. Chatter becomes slightly hysterical laughter when we realize our parking bay is occupied by two white rhino that with bombastic determination face off the game-viewing vehicle and then with a snort, storm off into the bush.

Morning light dispels the fears of wild animals appearing out of the dark. Gqoyeni is beautiful. Sprawled along the spine of a hill, the lodge has on its one hand, views over treetops with a plethora of birds and glimpses of shy buck beneath the canopy. On Gqoyeni’s opposite side, the Black Umfolozi River winds into the distance. The verandah running the length of the lodge’s openplan lounge area is ideal for viewing elephant crossings and buffalo wading among the reeds.

The voice of the seven-year-old boy

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We move as a united pack along the wooden walkways – nobody is going to be taking solitary strolls in this wild place. With a full complement of adult

The lodge comes with all the sumptuous furnishings of leather and white linen you would find at some of the best privately owned lodges. The difference is its reasonable rates and that you bring your own food to be prepared by the camp’s chef. (Ask Nelson to do his potato bake – it is perfection.)

Before my tirade can begin, the eldest says, “Didn’t you hear us last night? We screamed and shouted. We even tried to phone you.” The tale unfolds of how the seventeen year old secured the door as a spotted hyena as high as her waist unsuccessfully jiggled the latch and then resorted to masticating the doorknob.

Appropriately named, Nunu Jobe is the field guide in attendance to take guests on bush walks. The area is rich in wildlife and the terrain is relatively flat so walking is a pleasure. However, if you wish to go in search of the brightly feathered and rare Narina Trogon be prepared to hike the sandy river banks.

The hyena had eventually wandered off, leaving evidence of wooden shards and a tiny crumpled plastic ball – the remains of a 5-litre water bottle. The girls slept the rest of the night in the bathroom, armed with cans of deodorant and hairspray should their spotted friend decide on a second surprise visit.

There are no fences here. Any illusions that people are anything more than spectators to nature’s wild ways are shattered when I go to rouse the teenagers. All that remains of the wooden doorknob is a single metal screw. “Typical,” I think to myself. “These girls have obviously been messing around, slamming doors, and now we have to pay to fix a doorknob.”

Breakfast is a buzz of swopping tales. The youngsters have forgotten any electronic entertainment. A walk on Hluhluwe-iMfolozi’s wildside is far more interesting. And it has been a wild weekend, a heady mix of Gqoyeni ’s gracious comfort served in the heart of untamed nature. I wonder if the Canadians think this happens every day?

WILDSIDE Fact Tracker Gqoyeni bushlodge Where: In Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park. Check in at Mpila Resort before traveling to Gqoyeni Bush Lodge. Accommodation: Four en-suite units, which each sleep two. Lodge has a kitchen, lounge, dining area, viewing deck and braai area. Guests must bring food. Lodge has a chef who is responsible for washing up and servicing the units. A field ranger is available on request for walks in the reserve. Game drives can be arranged at Mpila at an extra cost. Cost: R700 pppns (min charge R4 200 pn for lodge). Contact: KZN Wildlife Reservations  Tel: 033 845 1000  Fax: 033 845 1001, email: webmail@kznwildlife.com.

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Brand New Nselweni Bushlodge

WILDSIDE 1of4 2010

Nselweni Bushlodge Hluhluwe-iMfolozi, KZN

Surprise, is the first reaction guests experience on arrival at Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park’s newest addition – Nselweni Bushlodge. The bushlodge, curled inside a curve of the Black Umfolozi River, is a world-class new expression of bush accommodation. While the name ‘Nselweni’ has been on Park maps for years, this newly designed bushlodge, officially opened on the 10 December 2009, is a fresh departure from the traditional bush accommodation we have come to expect.

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Innovation "Bushlodges using local material such as reeds, poles and thatch for structures, were a local innovation by Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife (then the Natal Parks Board). However Nselweni’s structures," as Dr Bandile Mkhize, Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife’s CEO points out, "are a radical departure from our traditional styles although it does still retain that essential ‘bush’ feel with the combination of brick, glass and canvas”. Strung along the outline of circular paths are eight self-contained units, a communal living area and a boma. While the structures, with their earthy coloured walls feel rooted in Africa and sensitive to the environment, the whole bushlodge feels contemporary and carefully considered.

Investment Careful thought has not only been given to style but also to the lodge’s ownership structure. The building of the new Nselweni Bushlodge presented the opportunity to include the ten communities neighbouring Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park. These communities are beneficiaries of a trust fund set up so communities bordering KwaZulu-Natal’s protected areas can gain some benefit. Over the years these funds have grown through the Community Levy – a percentage of each rand paid by visitors to the Park. Initially when this money was made available for projects, the communities bordering Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park made a ground breaking decision. Communities asked that the money should rather be held in trust until there was enough to fund an entrepreneurial enterprise, one that would provide people with employment. The redevelopment of Nselweni proved to be the ideal opportunity. With R3 million from the Community Levy and an additional R4 million from the National Department of Environment Affairs and Tourism, building and business plans were drawn up and work began in 2008. The result is a first – a community-funded lodge within the boundaries of Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park.

Zipless tent Commissioned to design the new Nselweni, architect Jeremy Steere explains that Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife’s original brief was for tented accommodation. “People love sleeping under canvas.” He goes on to say that while reed and thatch are popular, KZN Wildlife stipulated that this bushlodge must be low maintenance. Top: Interior view of a new unit at Nselweni. Middle: View from the comfortable communal lounge looking towards the deck and the Black Umfolozi River. Bottom: The deck is made from durable recycled materials.

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With R3 million from the Community Levy (a percentage of each rand paid by visitors to the Park) and an additional R4 million from the National Department of Environment Affairs and Tourism, building and business plans were drawn up and work began in 2008. The result is a first â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a community-funded lodge within the boundaries of Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park.

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Opposite page top: Nselweni Bushlodge is the first community-

funded lodge within the boundaries of Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park. Funds partly came from the Community Levy monies due to the Zungu, Mandlakazi, Hlabisa, Mpembeni, Mdletshe, Mpukunyoni, Mhlana, Somopho, Obuka and Ximba communities. Community members shown here are: (front row left to right) Sindisiwe Sithole, Phakamile Shabalala, Nonhleahla Mdletshe, (back row left to right) Mthokozisi Ngcobo, Lindinkosi Mkhwanazi and Sbusiso M Dlamini. Left below: Going green Nselweni

Bushlodge has an impressive array of solar panels and cleverly hidden below benches are batteries, making the bushlodge self-sufficient from an energy perspective. (Right below) View towards the boma.

When asked about the Steering Committee’s departure from the traditional bushlodge materials, Jeremy goes on to describe what he labels his ‘zipless tent’ design. “The bathrooms and kitchens of the units are built out of brick but they sit like two bookends on either side of the tented bedroom area.” This description is apt. There are no zips – the structures have canvas but also glass and aluminium doors and windows, (wide views into the bush during the day, and a comfort at night when that hyena is sounding a little too close.) It is also the perfect compromise between the permanence of brick and mortar with its low maintenance and the joy of a transient tent. The result is an upbeat mix of fun and luxury. The tented units are laagered in a wide half circle under the cooling shadow of uMthombothi (Tamboti or Jumping Bean) trees. While the eight self-contained two-bed units are set back from the river, they do offer a quiet, intimate space within the woodland, a chance to sit on your patio and spot a solitary buck gingerly weaving between the trees. In contrast, guests can gather on the expansive deck of the open plan lounge/ dining area with its full river frontage and watch a herd of elephant coming for a drink. Alternatively, guests can socialise in the large boma area encircled by the tented units.

Self catering luxury: Bedroom, sleeping two, adjoined by kitchen and bathroom with outdoor

braai facilities.

Nselweni Bushlodge’s layout is ingenious in its versatility. The accent is on comfortable ‘indoor/outdoor’ living. Even when the bushlodge is full, guests have the choice of being private or public. Its ideal for corporate ‘getaways’, small weddings, groups of families or friends, or even a couple who just want a weekend break in the bush. Another aspect of the bushlodge’s adaptability is that the entire setup, not just one or two rooms, is wheelchair friendly.

Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife is going benefit. As Dr Bandile Mkhize, Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife CEO explains, “We are particularly pleased with this new development that really does cement our positive relationship with our local communities”. He goes on to say that the bushlodge is part of KZN Wildlife’s suite of public facilities. “We are confident that it will become a popular addition to the facilities we offer in the magnificent Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park”.

Going Green

And finally guests are going to benefit. Nselweni is a refreshing new take on the bushlodge experience. Bookings are now open.

The most exciting feature of Nselweni is hidden – its green architecture. The bushlodge is almost entirely self-sufficient from an energy perspective, with an impressive bank of solar panels. Cleverly hidden beneath benches are banks of batteries. Stoves, showers and fridges are fired by gas. Wherever possible, consideration was given to sustainable materials. The expansive deck is a case in point – made from mostly recycled materials that will not need maintenance and will be there to enjoy for years to come.

Win-win and win situation There is no doubt Nselweni is a ‘winner’. The communities are going to benefit from their investment in the lodge. Being a community-funded initiative, local folk will get preferential access to employment opportunities at the bushlodge.

WILDSIDE Fact Tracker Nselweni bushlodge Where: In Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park. Enter through Nyalazi gate and check in at Mpila Resort before traveling to Nselweni Bush Lodge. Accommodation: Self-catering. Eight units which each sleep two. Units have kitchens and en-suite bathrooms. Lodge also has a communal kitchen, lounge, dining area, viewing deck and boma. Cost: R550 pppns Contact: KZN Wildlife Reservations  Tel: +27 (033) 845 1000  Fax: +27 (033) 845 1001, email: webmail@ kznwildlife.com, Postal: P.O. BOX 13069  Cascades 3202  KwaZuluNatal  South Africa

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NATURE AT ITS

BEST

BUSHWILLOW

Hluhluwe, Situated in Kuleni Game Park EXPLORE THE ELEPHANT COAST This small owner managed lodge offers guests a very personalized service, ensuring a memorable bush experience. Walking trails on the park with close encounters with the wild life.

The lodge blends seamlessly into the bush, offering complete

privacy and seclusion. Home cooked meals, or choose to have exclusive use of the lodge as a luxury self-catering getaway.

Check Availability and Book Online www. bushwillow.com

E-mail: info@bushwillow.com Tel:+27 (0)35 562 0473 ~ Fax: +27 (0)35 562 0250 ~ Cell: +27 (0)83 651

an unusual collection of south african w i l d e r n e s s d e s t i n at i o n s

Thonga Beach Lodge - Elephant Coast

Isibindi Zulu Lodge - Rorkeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Drift

Kosi Forest Lodge - Kosi Bay Nature Reserve

Rhino Walking Safaris - Kruger National Park

Readers special - Isibindi Zulu lodge for R1090 pppn. April & May, booking terms & conditions apply.

Reservations: Tel:(035) 474 1473 www.isibindiafrica.co.z email: res@isibindi.co.za

inspired experiences

unusual places

E XCLUSI VE PRI VATE GA ME RESE RVE , S AFARI LOD GE , LUXURY TE N TE D C A MP AND CONFE RE NCE CE N TRE ELEPHANT SAFARI LODGE Stylish decor and gourmet cuisine in air conditioned chalets. LUXURY TENTED CAMP Authentic African bush experience to rediscover nature in great style. Only 2hrs from Durban and 40 minutes from Richards Bay. Elephant, Rhino, Buffalo and Leopard tracking from open landrover. Private airstrip. Day visitors welcome for game drive and Lunch.

For special packages on offer visit our website www.thulathula.com or call: (035) 792 8322 cell: 082 259 9732 email: thula@netactive.co.za

PAKAMISA PRIVATE          GAME RESERVE

Pakamisa Private Game Reserve, with its panoramic mountain views overlooking the Pongola river valley, awaits to rejuvenate your soul. Come and pamper yourself with luxurious accommodation, savour superb cuisine, and relish fine wines. Catch the excitement of a horseback safari amongst the game or test your skills with a number of outdoor adventure sports. 8   LUXURY  SUITES  • HORSEBACK SAFARIS  • GAME DRIVES     BUSH WALKS • ARCHERY  •  CLAY TARGET SHOOTING

Tel: 034 - 413 3559 Fax: 034 - 413 1817 Cell: 083 229 2116 Email: res@pakamisa.co.za www.pakamisa.co.za

W A T E R

H O L I D A Y

Southern Mozambique

Ponta Mamoli Diving, Fly Fishing, Spear Fishing, and Swimming with Turtles…it’s all in a day’s work. Eddie Van Os headed off with the Wildside team armed with fishing gear and notebook. Eddie Crawford took the photographs.

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…it is the only lodge in the bay which means

it has almost exclusive use of the beautiful beach.

The sms read “Are you keen to join us for a weekend at Ponta Mamoli Resort in Moz?”. Having never been to Moz, but desperate to visit, I didn’t need any further encouragement and responded with a big “yes”. The plan was to stay at Ponta Mamoli Resort leaving Durban on Thursday and returning Sunday. Being a typical corporate person who prefers to plan ahead and research I decided to check out our destination on the internet. I was pleasantly surprised to find that Ponta Mamoli Resort has a comprehensive website with loads of useful links. I found the Google Earth link particularly useful as it allowed me to view the location of the lodge and scope out the beach for ideal fly fishing spots. The resort offers a host of beach and inland activities ranging from turtle nesting walks to kite surfing.

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However scuba diving is the main attraction and the resort boasts a competent dive centre which is staffed by highly experienced and friendly PADI instructors. I was also able to establish that they offered refresher scuba diving lessons, which was important since my wife’s open water 1 certification had lapsed and she was able to do this here and then enjoy the diving. All that remained unclear was whether we needed a 4x4 and the directions to cover the 25km from the border post to the lodge. Fortunately the manageress of the lodge Kim Allen was able to provide good directions and confirm we needed a 4x4 vehicle. Some people have made it in a sedan, others in a 2x4, but it’s risky and Kim was quite right saying we needed a 4x4. Armed with this knowledge and a range of fishing rods that would put most sport shops to shame we set off rather apprehensively from a very wet Durban. Fortunately the weather cleared the further north we

From walking along deserted beaches, to encountering a dazzling wall of kingfish while diving at the well known Pinnacles reef just south of Ponta Mamoli, to experiencing the beautiful dive sites in the bay of Mamoli, or simply enjoying a cocktail around the pool at sunset, this little piece of paradise has much to offer. Although it's only 25km from the Kosi Bay border you will need a 4x4 to get there. Bottom left: The view across the pool at Ponta Mamoli resort onto the bay.

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travelled and by the time we reached the Kosi Bay border 4 hours later it was sunny. Clearing passport control was pretty effortless, however make sure you have the necessary documents for your vehicle including insurance and copy of log book as proof of ownership. We left my vehicle at a fenced off area considered to be safe parking on the South African side of the border at a charge of R30 per day and then piled into the brand new Discovery 4 TDV6 HSE for the last 25km.

Land Rover Discovery 4 - ruggedness and opulence A truly luxurious vehicle with the latest technology. The Discovery 4 features an enhanced, more tactile interior, and the innovative design maximises space while flexible seating configurations afford room for up to seven adults. There were six of us adults – but with a very big pile of gear it was a bit of a squeeze. It wasn’t the fishing rods, diving gear, and spear fishing gear that took up the space – it was our wives luggage of course. Thanks to the Discovery 4’s upright side profile, there is more head and shoulder room than in competitor vehicles. The very comfortable ride and climate control made up for the squeeze,

An Exclusive Beach Ponta Mamoli Resort is the only lodge in the bay which means it has almost exclusive use of the beautiful beach. It’s the view that hits you when you first walk onto the lounge deck. We loved the wide open deck and with its comfortable sofas, expansive views and cool sea breeze – it’s a place where you can easily kick back and lose yourself in a good book. Combined with the rustic Portuguese architecture and undeveloped surroundings, it was just the perfect location for a relaxing break. The fact that there are no phones or TVs in the rooms makes it even better. The resort consists of 15 private sea facing wooden chalets connected by raised boardwalks so as to protect the dunes and vegetation. We found the rooms to be comfortable and included all the basic amenities you’d expect. Fortunately it was a perfect day so it wasn’t long before the boys hit the beach for some salt water fly fishing. The location, in the corner of the bay which I had spotted on Google Earth, as well as the conditions were absolutely perfect, so we were a bit disappointed to only catch two small kingies. But then again it’s not the first time we’ve struggled to catch…

" …the boys headed back out to Pinnacle reef for a spot of fishing and spear fishing for the more adventurous. Spearos are a tough and fearless lot." and the updated terrain response system along with a host of new technology including surround camera system made the drive a complete pleasure. The road, or better described as sand track, splits immediately as you leave the border post and you have the option of going left, right or straight. We were told to keep left and although the crisscross network of sand tracks initially seem confusing, it’s fairly straight forward for Ponta Mamoli, just keep left. It wasn’t long before we saw signs confirming we were heading in the right direction. I’ve got to say the Landy handled the sandy and rutted roads with absolute ease. It felt as if we were sitting in an aeroplane floating effortlessly over the bumps totally insulated from the heat and dust outside. The four-corner independent air suspension delivers exceptional handling and ride qualities both on and off road as is promised. Our first stop was a local bush pub about a kilometre from the resort. Patrick the owner welcomed us with a huge smile and a promise of a cold beer, savannah or coke. A cool drink later and we were back on the sandy track and it wasn’t long before we arrived at our destination.

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The next day we were greeted by a beautiful sunrise and the promise of a full day of adventure. After a man-sized breakfast we all headed in different directions; the more experienced divers headed off to dive a site known as Pinnacles, whilst the less experienced did a refresher course in the pool. Others relaxed around the pool with a book and the requisite G&T.

Scuba diving, free diving and spear fishing There are a variety of dive sites close to the lodge and with a fully equipped dive centre, which includes spear fishing equipment, and qualified instructors the team wasted no time getting into the water. Pinnacles, which is a 40 meter dive, is renowned for its bull sharks (otherwise known as zambezi). Although it may sound daunting, the dive crew at Ponta Mamoli Lodge are experienced and not at any stage did anyone feel threatened by the sharks. The Pinnacle dive, with visibility of 30metres, certainly didn’t disappoint and the crew came back full of stories of close encounters with a variety of shark, rays, potato bass and a myriad of colourful fish. The wall of kingfish was described as spectacular.

Top left: From your comfortable chalets just behind the dune on the beach, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a few steps away for early morning fishermen. Far Left: The local pub on the way to the resort on the side of the road is a must. Below: This diver thought that the Playground dive site was perfect.

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Three free divers also dived at Pinnacles with the bull sharks and at stages they were encircled by several bull sharks. Unlike scuba divers, free divers are not able to remain still and wait if sharks swim above as they can only hold their breath for so long. Needless to say experience is essential for a dive like this. The second dive, which included the now newly refreshed pool divers, was at the aptly named Playground, which at 8 metres was exceptionally enjoyable with good visibility. We swam alongside a giant leather back turtle that didn’t dash off as they usually do and seemed just as interested in us. There was huge variety of fish, while a sand shark also swam past. It’s a great dive and also close to shore so no major boat trip - being shallow provided much fun for the free divers too. Later that afternoon the boys headed back out to Pinnacle reef for a spot of fishing and spear fishing for the more adventurous. Spearos are a tough and fearless lot. It needs to be said these guys were very experienced and knew exactly what they were doing. We lesser mortals managed to hook a few yellow fin tuna whilst the spearos shot a few kingies. That night the staff served us with the freshest sashimi imaginable. The food at Ponta Mamoli is exceptional and includes several courses at dinner ranging from fish to meat dishes, and delicious desserts.

(You must ask them for their famous caprihinias before moving on to the R&Rs.) In fact we were still out at sea when we first heard the laughter, singing and beating of drums which happened to be our wives entertaining the staff with their rendition of Miriam Makebe’s ‘Click Song’. It was a wonderful way to end a truly adventurous day. By the next morning, the rain we had left in Durban a few days earlier, had finally arrived. After exploring the surrounding beaches and putting the Landy through its paces on a nearby steep ridge and found that there was simply not enough to challenge this remarkable 4x4 with its variable ride height flexibility for easier access and loading, we bade farewell to Ponta Mamoli. We stopped in at Ponta du Ouro the bustling town and bay close to the border but found it all far too hectic for us after our very chilled stay at Ponta Mamoli.

WILD Reader offer

Whilst the men were out toiling for dinner the women indulged in some cocktails with the amazingly friendly staff.

Contact Ponta Mamoli and book this Wildside Ponta Mamoli special offer which is R990 pppns including dbb and a free dolphin viewing boat trip.

WILDSIDE Fact Tracker – PONTA MAMOLI & LAND ROVER DISCOVERY 4 3,0 TDV6 ponta mamoli coral reefs

MOZAMBIqUE

ndUMO GAME RESERVE tEMBE ELEpHAnt pARK

coral reefs ponta do ouro

kosi Bay

R22 Kosi

Bay

kozi bay forest lodge

dog point turtles breeding

pelindaba SILEZI nAtURE RESERVE

black rock

coastal cashews thonga pick up

m a r i n e r e s e r v e

rocktail bay lodge lala nek

R22

lak

island rock Ponta Mamoli aYa S ib ELEpHAnt Where: This secluded destination is in southern Mozambique, mabibi COASt thonga beach

25km from the Kosi Bay border post.lodge

Diving: The extensive coral reefs and numerous and varied dive hully point MABASO sites at Ponta Mamoli are pristine and your diving experience is turtles COMMUnIty exclusive. Prices are fair, PADI Divebreeding centre is well equipped with GAME RESERVE highly qualified and experienced instructors. not gobey’s point

Uzi PaN m Accommodation: Mbazwana

recommended

la emantuma

jesser point

o c e a n

12 standard chalets with king-size beds, 3 family chalets. All fully serviced,coral with reefs en-suite showers, fans, mosquito nets and sea facing veranda although there is a buffer Sodwana Bay of coastal bush. r e s e r v e

muzi pan Cost: adventures From R880 pppns in low season through to R1140 pppns during peak season – all rates on a dbb basis and exclude activities. Discounted rates for children.

KUZE ME ERVE

Forest Lodge

turtles breeding

Vlei Lodge

pHIndA 38

Zuka Lodge Getty Lodge

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i n d i a n

Walking Safaris

ghoek e

m a r i n e

To Book: Tel: 035 592 8100/01 Email: bookings@pontamamoli. com

Land Rover Discovery 4 3,0 TDV6 HSE: This latest Disco is a perfect match of ruggedness and opulence. The 3,0 litre twin turbo diesel produces 180 kW of power and has a peak torque of 600 N.m. We found the diesel engine to be exceptionally quiet and very responsive for such a large vehicle. The features are too numerous to mention, however we were fascinated by its Terrain Response system and the touch screen display with five camera surround system to assist with parking and off road manoeuvrability. The cabin has generous second row leg room and is beautifully finished with brushed aluminium and lavish leather trim. At a glance the Disco’s

specifications: Price – R725 000 Cyl/capacity – V6/2 993 Power – 180/4 000 Torque – 600/2 000 Gears/drive – 6 x 2/4 0 – 100 km/h – 9,58 sec 100 – 0 KM/H – 3,03 sec Max speed – 180 Fuel index – 11,16 Luggage capacity – 112/402 – 1 864 Serv/maint plan – M5/100 000

The Zingela Safari & River Company Established 1983 From simple beginnings Zingela Camp has evolved slowly over the years. Set deep in the Kingdom of the Zulus on the banks of the Tugela river, it is a romantic haven from the stress of the over-populated world. Whether you book for relaxation, your honeymoon, an adventure filled holiday or conference, Zingela assures you of a special and memorable stay. 036 354 7005/250 zingela@futurenet.co.za www.zingelasafaris.co.za Zingela Wildside Ad.indd 1

W ETLANDS EARTH S PA

+27 (0)35 - 590 1093 +27 (0)83 - 273 1455 info@wetlandsearthspa.co.za www.wetlandsearthspa.co.za St Pizza Centre, Mckenzie Street

skincare

Speak to Nicola, Mike or Grant Cell: 083 996 5343 Landline: 047 576 8904 Fax: 047 576 8905 E-mail: info@havenhotel.co.za Website: www.havenhotel.co.za

ST LUCIA, KZN

2/24/10 6:57:00 AM

The Haven Hotel is a family and adventure destination located within the Cwebe/Dwesa Nature Reserves on the Transkei Wild Coast of South Africa. Blessed with sea, sun and endless things to see and do, it offers a way of life that lets you forget the rest of the world and relax in the most secluded and unspoiled surroundings.

Rejuvenation of your body and soul

grooming

slimming

UM W IL

BU DC OA

•E AST E

I R IVE

CAP

E• SOU

AFR

relaxing

Inversanda

Inversanda is a country lover’s haven situated in the beautiful Dargle valley in the Midlands of KwaZulu-Natal. Acclaimed as the true definition of hospitality and hand picked by the prestigious Greenwood Guide, Inversanda is also a safe retreat for walking, birding, horse riding, mountain biking or trout fishing. Come and join us, we’re at the end of the road.

IC A

Escape to the ultimate

G E TAWAY Reservations: +27 (0)47 564 1115/6/8/9 Fax +27 (0)47 564 1210 e-mail stay@umngazi.co.za For a brochure call: +27 (0)31 701 6881/2 or visit www.umngazi.co.za

4037

Self-drive or enquire about our seven night fly-in packages available every Friday from Virginia Airport, Durban.

Tel: 033 234 4321 www.inversanda.co.za

Project Bull Shark Bull sharks have a reputation as the bad-boy bullies of the deep and there is a perception that this species is simply a “maneater” and there appears to be little interest in saving this shark from extinction. Project Bull Shark is a bold and important step in Southern Africa’s understanding of its shark populations and ultimately the supreme importance of this apex predator. Director of Sharklife, Fiona Ayerst shares this ground breaking project with Wildside. Photographs © Fiona Ayerst

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P R O J E C T

B U L L

S H A R K

In 2006 three avid divers; directors from local conservation N.G.O Sharklife, embarked upon an adventure that would lead to an exciting partnership, filled with hope for the future of bull sharks, Carcharhinus leucas (also known as zambezis) in Southern Africa. Over a period of three years the directors identified an area in Southern Mozambique that appeared to them, to have a resident population of bull sharks. The area is well known to divers as the Pinnacles, near Ponto Malongane. The directors realised that – combined with the warmth and clarity of the warm Indian Ocean, and the relative close proximity of this site to the launching areas- these sharks would make a perfect study group. The directors knew the importance of scientific research to back conservation proposals and so, in 2008, they approached Oceans Research with the aim of setting up Project Bull Shark. Oceans Research is a marine research institute specialising in studying Southern Africa’s marine predators and has its head quarters in Mossel Bay, Western Cape. The institute is a temporary home to scores of international science students who come to Southern Africa to further their studies and assist the scientists with collecting data and studying marine predators. The institute’s founders had noticed that South Africa was losing many of its young marine scientists due to the fact there were very limited opportunities for them after finishing their studies. The institutes aim is to ensure young scientists have a place to put their academic learning into practical skills and to provide them with a venue to practice the practical side of marine academia. After young scientists have finished their tenure at Oceans Research they become valuable consultants and practically trained scientists. This bodes well for the future of the oceans surrounding Southern Africa. The Southern African coast and its Oceans are abundant and vulnerable and the Oceans Research directors are driven to train young scientists with a view to understanding. This ultimately aids the conservation efforts of N.G.O’s such as Sharklife.

Thus, the perfect fit between Oceans Research and Sharklife was identified and Project Bull Shark was born out of their joint passion. Sharklife had been trying for years to procure scientific assistance to study bull sharks but research requires funds and Sharklife had found it difficult, if not impossible, to find investors for the project. Oceans Research provided both the manpower and the solution to the set-up costs.

Asia’s Demand for Fins Of all the marine predators, sharks, such at the bull shark, are in a uniquely perilous position, as they face unprecedented consumptive demand by Asia for their fins. Over 100 million sharks are killed annually; the majority to supply the culinary demand for shark fin soup that utilises less than 3 percent of a sharks’ biomass. Sharks, as the pinnacle of the marine food chain, have also become the greatest draw card to marine tourism, surpassing marine mammals in many instances. Thus, whilst there is unprecedented consumptive pressure on sharks, there is also hope for their survival through nonconsumptive eco-tourism. One of the aims of Project Bull Shark is to address this emotional issue through producing the scientific information required for informed management and conservation.

P R O J E C T

B U L L

S H A R K

The name bull shark comes from the shark’s stocky shape, broad and flat snout. Males reach 2 m, weigh 90 kg and females 4m and weigh

in at a hefty 318 kg. Bull sharks are wider than other requiem sharks of comparable length and are grey on top and white below, with the second dorsal fin smaller than the first. The widely misunderstood bull shark has developed a reputation for being aggressive, however they often swim in shallow waters including rivers and lakes, which bring them into contact with humans. It is believed that bull sharks may have been responsible for the Jersey Shore shark attacks of 1916 which was the inspiration for Peter Benchley’s novel Jaws which he himself has said, had he known what damage this would have brought to the reputation of sharks, he would never have written the book.

Marine Tourism According to Ryan Johnson of Oceans Research, the bull shark population can have phenomenal benefits to the local community in terms of tourism and attracting divers and scientists to the area. Conservation of this species is problematic due to the fact that they tend to be slow growing, late maturing and territorial. The bull sharks, and other shark species found in the area, are not only the top of the food chain but worth far more to the community as a living natural resource.

WILDSIDE 1of4 2010

Not only does the project aim to gather scientific information on the sharks but also it aims also to educate both the local population about the sharks and their role. The long-term goal is to procure protection for the sharks, both through regulation but also, just as importantly, on a practical “grass-roots” level. Sharklife spends much time and energy educating people in understanding the massive importance of protecting sharks before it is too late and its directors are relieved that, with the support and dedication of the Oceans Research

scientists this may now be possible. The partnership is busy negotiating a permanent tented research camp at Costa Bravo in the Techobanine area, as the Pinnacles research site is most accessible from this area. The research scientists will be available to meet with and give presentations on their research to the public who visit this resort. Sharklife and Oceans Research have joined forces with: the Universities of Pretoria and Rhodes; Eyes on the Horizon (EOTH) Mozambique; and the Universidade Eduardo Mondlane in Maputo in Project Bull Shark.

Oceans Research scientist in residence Justin Blake (Ph.D Cand, M.Sc., B.Sc.(Hons)) who is conducting his doctoral research on the habitat use and behavior of the bull shark in the Ponta Region, Mozambique, listens for signs of the tagged shark as intern, Laura Fullwood, takes notes and fellow scientist in residence Ryan Daly skippers the boat. WILDSIDE 1of4 2010

Above: Free diving with bull sharks, Ryan Daly (Ph.D Cand, M.Sc., B.sc.(Hons)), is a scientist in residence at Oceans Research. Ryan’s

doctoral research is centered on modelling the energetic flow within the Ponta region. Through stable isotope analysis of the bull sharks and potential prey species, he aims to describe tropic level relationships in this unique ecosystem. The bull shark is one of only three sharks (the others are the sawtooth and sandbar sharks) that can live in both fresh and salt water. The Southern end of its range was recently discovered in the Breede River in the Western Cape. This shark has been responsible for only 25 fatal attacks worldwide on humans since records began in 1580. The bull shark, Carcharhinus leucas, also known as the whaler shark, zambezi shark or unofficially known in Africa as Zambi and Nicaragua shark in Nicaragua, is common worldwide in warm, shallow waters along coasts and in rivers.

Two scientists from Oceans Research, Ryan Daly and Justin Blake are running the program and conducting their doctoral theses on the bull sharks. The team is currently compiling data on the shark population by means of photographic identification of the unique pigmentation of this enigmatic species.

The projects first goal is to identify the critical habitat and home ranges of the pinnacles population. This mammoth task requires substantial cost and human capacity to track the sharks and the scientists will be assisted in this by interns from around the world. The scientists have been using acoustic tags and omni-

directional hydrophones to locate and track the sharks they are studying. Bull sharks don’t respect the confines imposed by humankind and these binational organisations are joining forces to research, conserve and educate across borders.

WILDSIDE Fact Tracker – PROJECT BULL SHARK Project Bull Shark www.sharklife.co.za www.oceans-research.com www.fionaayerst.com Costa Bravo Charles Sarjoo 031 7656666 082 821 6129 Email: charles@ispace.co.za

WILDSIDE 1of4 2010

Wildside dives with the bull sharks

of marine conservationists and experts.

The unfortunate shark attacks during the past year certainly fed my negative perception of sharks despite being in the privileged position as a writer to network with, talk to and learn from a diverse and well informed group

So it was with much trepidation and fear that I dived with Oceans Research at Pinnacles to see the bull sharks. As a newly qualified PADI Open Water 1 diver I had to level off at 18metres, but with 30metres visibility I

could clearly see the bull sharks circling beneath me. I saw Ryan Daly, who is doing his doctoral thesis on these bull sharks, swim within metres of them which seemed more surreal after the dive than during it. Admittedly it is safer

doing a controlled dive, forewarned with the knowledge of going to see the sharks, taking into account factors such as time of day, water visibility, than say surfing – a fact born out by statistics. None the less, we were in the water with the ‘scary Zambi’. It took diving

with these bull sharks to better appreciate these apex predators that are not maneaters. Through scientific research, such as Project Bull Shark, and increased interest in marine tourism, together we may just be able to save them in time.

â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Just Cruisinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; The MSC Sinfonia has made its mark on the South African cruise travel industry with its short trips to and from Mozambique. Jennifer Crawford went to find out why everyone is cruising.

The most obvious reason that the cruises are almost always fully booked is probably due to the competitive price tag for an exciting adventure and a price that includes all meals, shows, and a variety of entertainment, but excludes drinks and excursions. Of course there is also something thrilling about stepping onto a magnificent cruise liner as it conjures up memories of the grand holidays of old aboard graceful ships. The plush wall to wall carpeted interior and expansive decks of the Sinfonia added to this feeling of grandeur, while the Italian staff on board and the fact we were heading to Mozambique from South Africa, brought with it the flavour of international travel.

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MSC Sinfonia: The pool deck is the centre of activity during the day not only to swim, but because thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a live band, as well as deck entertainment ranging from cha cha lessons, to yoga classes. At night the deck becomes a quiet place as most of the passengers are in one of the numerous bars or lounges. The upper deck is quieter and where you can fully appreciate cruising as you look out onto expanses of ocean.

WILDSIDE 1of4 2010

Prices vary depending on season and type of cabin - which includes the 13sqm inside cabin without a view, the same size but with a ‘window to the ocean’, and 22sqm suites with a private balconies. We stayed in the outside cabin and found it more than adequate with its television, mini-bar , spacious cupboard and small shower. We were pleased to have a view of the ocean as it reminded us we really were at sea because while you are going up and down lifts, or sitting in lounges, it’s easy to forget you are on a ship. Those with the private balconies we chatted to lamented the wonderful time they spent staring out to sea, however we found we were so hectically busy with all that was on offer, we didn’t spend much time in our cabin. A daily programme is slipped under your door each night, and all the activities are listed. The evening shows are duplicated as there are two sittings for dinner and this evening arrangement works well as the times are all co-ordinated for you. It is quite an operation managing approximately 2 000 people hence the different sittings, and during the day the flow of activities seems effortless.

Shows, Bingo, and Karaoke Although you can opt out of all of the activities and laze on the pool deck, you don’t want to ‘miss the boat’ and you do want to get to all the shows because after all it’s free. The shows are mostly dancing and music variety shows, one of which was an outstanding international Spanish dancing group. Then there’s cha cha lessons on the deck during the day, a live band that plays a variety of music including well known Afrikaans songs,

WILDSIDE 1of4 2010

bingo, karaoke, ping pong tournaments, pool games, competitions, early morning walks around the deck and - that is not mentioning the music in numerous lounges and bars, the on board shopping, casino and then the stopping off and enjoying full day excursions. Over and above the activities, there is lots to do and you are constantly aware of the short time you are on board. For example, photographers roam around snapping shots of everyone, and you need to go to the viewing gallery and see if there are some of you and decide if you would like to purchase one. You really do need to read the programme each night which includes important information, and when it comes to the excursions when the ship docks, be very sure to have read about them and make a decision at least two days in advance. The excursions do get fully booked.

Taxi Tour Operator We took Sinfonia’s four night cruise from Durban to Maputo to Portuguese Island and back so when we docked at Maputo for the day we decided to go into the city for a few hours. Whilst the Sinfonia offers a Maputo City Tour, at USD27 we opted to do our own thing which proved easy enough. When we stepped off the ship we took a local taxi similar to a ‘tuk-tuk’ into town which is a short distance away for only R50 for both of us but as there are only a handful of taxi’s you need to be quick disembarking if you have not booked a prearranged tour aboard the ship. The short trip into the capital of Mozambique was made richly rewarding by our friendly taxi driver who doubled as our tour guide and did an excellent job. We enjoyed a local version of the city tour although it did not include a stop at the Museum of Natural History and our tour guides facts may well have been limited but we enjoyed getting a sense of the people through our taxi driver who stressed that everyone in Mozambique wanted peace and prosperity, that education was a top priority for any family, and that he believed South Africans brought much needed

job opportunities to Mozambique including tourists and business people. “And the South Africans tip really well too,” he commented with a huge smile.

Mercado Marketplace We first stopped in at the historic train station designed by Gustaff Eiffel who also designed the Eiffel Tower and which was the set of the blockbuster movie Blood Diamond staring Leonardo Di Caprio which is right alongside the port before venturing into the city to the local market which our taxi driver said was known as the Mercado. This lively bustling market offers up fresh fish, crabs, prawns, calamari, a colourful array of fresh fruit and vegetables, and a spread of spices. Unfortunately the curios were very expensive as well as uninteresting wooden carvings of the stock variety you can buy in South Africa. It is really the food component to this market that makes it interesting and worthwhile to visit. Outside the market vendors crowd you, but once you are in the market building it is entirely different in that nobody bothers you, but just be aware that there is a fair amount of pick-pocketing that goes on as our taxi driver warned. While we were driving around Maputo with our taxi driver other passengers opted for excursions that included a tour with lunch at the famed Costa Da sol, or a tour with lunch at the Docks, but at around USD60, we decided to head back to the ship and enjoy lunch aboard.

Endless Food There is such a spread of food served aboard the Sinfonia you simply cannot go hungry and you will most certainly pack on the kilograms. Breakfast includes everything from yogurt and pastries, to hot bacon, egg and sausages. No sooner is breakfast over and there’s a round of hot croissants served, just an hour or two before lunch begins. Although the queues at the serving stations were quick, the sense of canteen style did prevail, but the options were more than sufficient to satisfy any taste

Maputo's historic train station designed by Gustaff Eiffel The cheap and cheerful TukTuk taxi in Maputo

Captain of the Sinfonia Ciro Pinto

WILDSIDE 1of4 2010

buds. There is an Indian chef aboard specifically to ensure that the curries are curries and that they are to the liking of the large KZN population who book the cruises. You can also ‘make your own burger’ where lean chicken fillets, beef patties and a spread of salads are available at the outside bar around the pool. Dinner was scrumptious and included several courses. The service was excellent and if that was not enough food for one day, there were midnight snacks too.

Portuguese Island and Inhaca We thought the food was really good and in particular value for money when one considers what meals cost on holiday, so we found it odd that on our snorkelling excursion on our second stop at Portuguese Island that some passengers said they didn’t think the food was the best. You can’t please everyone and especially not 2 000 people, but I didn’t see anyone leaving empty plates either. We were not as pleased though with the snorkelling excursion and appreciate that this is not operated directly by the Sinfonia, who rely on local operators. First up it was USD33, secondly the name of the reef The Coral Gardens, was hardly fitting for a somewhat dying shallow reef with a total lack of the expected kaleidoscope of tropical fish and any expectations of a rare sighting of the Dugong as suggested in the splurb, are unrealistic. Finally the duration of one and a half hours was in fact a half hour boat ride to the reef, just under 30 minutes of snorkelling and another half hour boat trip back. Again the large number of people means that trips are hurried, and if you are last in line you may not find fins and a mask that fit.

WILD Reader offer CRUISE TO MAPUTO AND THE BARRA PENINSULA ABOARD THE MSC SINFONIA WITH WILD SIDE MAGAZINE Take advantage of this WILDSIDE MAGAZINE special, a 4 night cruise on board the MSC Sinfonia.

DEPARTURES DATES Departures visiting Maputo and Barra Lodge - 15 to 19 November - 29 November to 03 December - 10 to 15 January or 24 to 28 January Departures visiting Maputo and Portuguese Island - 22 to 26 November - 17 to 21 January or 31 Jan to 04 February Cabin Category

1st Person

Partner

Category 3- inside

R5400

R2700

Prawns at Lucas

Category 5- Inside

R5840

R2920

Category 6- Ocean View

R5960

R2980

We should have skipped the snorkelling and instead joined the friends we met on board and headed directly from the ship on the transfer to Inhaca Island which we then did after the snorkelling trip. Fortunately our friends had got there early and booked a table at Lucas restaurant which is famed for their prawns. This is not an excursion arranged by the ship and as the restaurant seats around 50 people it is understandable. So while the passengers were enjoying a beach braai on Portuguese Island offered by the ship, we were soaking up the local vibes at Lucas restaurant – the one and only restaurant – on a sandy pathway at Inhaca. We paid R280 each for the most delicious spread of prawns, langoustines and crayfish, washed back with a couple of icy savannas. Pricey, but the local vibe made it worthwhile.

Category 7- Ocean View

R6200

R3100

Category 8-Ocean View

R6480

R3240

Category 9-Ocean View

R6680

R3340

Category 10-Ocean View

R6960

R3480

Category 11-Balcony Suite

R7520

R3760

Port & Baggage

R500

Insurance

R55

Other excursions included sea kayaking, scuba diving, and game fishing. Everyone returned to the ship at the end of the day finding the air-conditioned Sinfonia a welcome respite from the hot and humid climate.

Accommodation in category booked 3 Meals plus midnight snacks daily Captain’s Cocktail Party and Gala Dinner Shows and entertainment All games, activities, aerobics and Gymnasium Casino

We returned to Durban after four nights at sea and waved goodbye to the Sinfonia who would soon be off on her next voyage which we heard was fully booked.

This special offer must be booked directly with STARLIGHT CRUISES

Special rates cannot be used in conjunction with any other discount offer. Discounts are capacity controlled and can be withdrawn at any time. Included in your fare:

For brochures, reservations or information on the MSC SINFONIA contact Starlight Cruises Jnb Pta Dbn Cpt

011 012 031 021

807 5111 342 4496 3303 3572 555 3005

www.starlight.co.za. WILDSIDE 1of4 2010

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GEAR GADGETS & GIZMOS

WGild

A trip without your favourite gadget or essential outdoor tool is unthinkable. Here are some new indispensable items to make your journey more pleasurable.

Maloti mountain moccasins

A world class mosquito and insect repellent.

Sheepskin lined moccasins. Maloti mountain moccasins are for indoor/outdoor wear. Comfortable sheepskined lined leather upper and rubber sole. Handcrafted in South Africa. Unisex fittings, various colours available. Size 2-15.

Tabard remains the best known brand in its category in Africa. Tabard is not only used to keep mosquitoes at bay, but works effectively against most other insects.

R350 including postage email: chenge@eject.co.za

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HI TEC V-lite Altitude Ultra WPi A extremely lightweight boot that offers all the ankle support needed for trails. The ion-mask water-repellent technology assists making the boot 100% waterproof, so your feet will stay dry. The leather upper provides insulation in colder months of winter, and ensures breathing on a warmer afternoon. R1399 (mens) and R1299 (ladies) www.hi-tec.com

Lenzz-Rezzt Bean Bag Useful tool for outdoor photographers The well-designed double pocket beanbag improves the stability and reduces vibration and movement of long lenses. Photographers will find this function especially useful when taking photos from inside a vehicle. No more blurry photos caused by “camera shake!” R280 www.cameraprops.co.za

Awesome Tools – Led Lenser® H7 - 3 “AAA” cells delivers 140 lumens Pros are thrilled. With approximately 140 lumens, the LED LENSER® H7 is a miracle of light. It is brighter than three conventional electric torches. This lightweight champion is full of the best technology. You can change from long-distance light to circular low beam. The Advanced Focus System with its convenient features makes outdoor activities more comfortable and, above all, safer. A circular potentiometer allows for smooth dimming and the lamp head can be swivelled within an angle of 90 degrees. The design is simply convincing. The LED LENSER® is our best head lamp. suggested retail R309.00

WILDSIDE 1of4 2010

www.awesometools.co.za

The Land Rover Experience 4x4 Driving and Training Courses Whether you simply want to see what a real 4x4 can do, or as a Professional Driver you´re looking for accredited training, the Land Rover Experience offers you a variety of options at centres around South Africa. Wildside visited the KZN Land Rover Experience centre located at Inchanga, KwaZulu-Natal in the rolling hills, just 20 minutes drive from the centre of Durban. Here you will find expert tuition from world class instructors, and tackle some of the most challenging terrain you´ll ever encounter, whilst getting to grips with the latest state-of-theart Land Rovers and their class leading technology. With a professional instructor sitting beside you, your confidence to tackle terrain you never dreamed you could becomes possible. There´s no better way to learn how to get the best from yourself and your vehicle.

There are a variety of levels and to start off, the half-day introductory course is a good solution for newcomers to off-road driving and those wanting to know how to get the best from their vehicle. The focus is on enjoyment as much as it is an introduction to the basics of off-road driving. There’s a full-day course which covers the necessary skills to drive a vehicle off-road including observation, planning and manoeuvring while tackling obstacles such as water, steep inclines and side slopes, ruts, ditches and mud. The full day course, builds on the experience already gained and this advanced course extends and hones driving skills on more extreme terrain. There are also specialist courses including winching, towing, GPS navigation and expedition skills. Contact: Andrew Brown at Land Rover Experience, Inchanga. 031 783 4209 or 012 371 2027 or 083 601 8318 andrew@landroverexperience.co.za www.cameraprops.co.za

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Wildside’s Top HOT SPOTS Herewith is a spread of great travel options for Wildside readers and international tour operators to check out because of their unique positioning, interesting activities and value for money rates. Ask about specials, and add value items to the rate per person per night sharing and make sure you book a stay at one of these Top Hot Spots.

Ladysmith / Drakensberg

Nambiti Plains Game Lodge Nambiti Plains Lodge is nestled amongst the fauna and flora of the spectacular Nambiti Game Reserve, a private Big Five game conservancy set on 20,000 acres of malaria-free bushveld in KwaZulu-Natal. Nambiti Plains Private Game Lodge is about 3½ hours drive from Johannesburg, 2½ hours drive from Durban and 40 minutes from the Drakensberg Mountains.

With 180 degree panoramic views from the bath, outdoor bush shower and private wrap around deck, guests can immerse themselves in the pure luxury that is Nambiti Plains.

Nambiti Plains not only offers you the Big 5, but also boasts incredible biodiversity including savannah, grasslands, thornveld and tall acacia trees. It is home to several rare bird species and an array of plains game.

The main lodge is perched on the edge of a waterhole; so relax with a cocktail on the deck or take a dip in the swimming pool and watch as the animals quietly drink. In the evenings look forward to 5 star dinners in the boma around the fire and feel the beat of Africa as it gently and rhythmically moves through the night.

Nambiti Plains Lodge offers 5 star luxury accommodation for the executive adventurer. Each suite is designed with the utmost care and detail to impress and surpass the expectations of even the most discerning guest. Each suite is spacious, under-floor heated and completely secluded.

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We offer 5 luxury suites including a family suite - two separate suites accessed by a common entrance. The lodge accommodates a maximum of 10 guests.

071 680 4584 info@nambitiplains.com www.nambitiplains.com from R2650 pppns

Central Drakensberg

Dundee / Drakensberg

Champagne Sports Resort

Ingudlane Lodge Ingudlane Lodge is situated on a private game reserve in northern KwaZulu-Natal, just 2 km outside Dundee on the Battlefields Route. The reserve is on hilly terrain, with many watering holes. There is a wide range of game including giraffe, water buck, zebra, nyala, kudu, rooi hartebeest, duiker, impala, bles bok and mountain and common reedbuck. Book an early morning game drive and breakfast or an afternoon sunset drive. Ingudlane Lodge boasts modern, exquisitely decorated, very private and secluded self catering chalets. The chalets offer two double bedrooms with en suite bathrooms and an open plan living area, perfect for family or romantic getaways. The main lodge has lots to offer. Sit around crackling boma fires in the evenings, discussing the day’s experiences. Kids can play on the jungle gym outside, while

parents catch up with friends in the pub or watch sport on the numerous big screen TV’s. The restaurant is open daily and seats 120 people. Choose from a number of hearty meals on our a la carte menu. Ingudlane offers a stunning venue for that ultimate bush wedding for up to 120 guests. All conferencing facilities are available. Luxury bush braais in the lush terrain are perfect for staff parties or any other special occasions. Day trips to the many closely situated battlefield sites can be arranged. Local Battlefield attractions include: The Battle of Talana Museum, The Battle of Blood River Heritage Site, Isandlwana Battlefield and Rorke’s Drift Museum. 082 879 7734 bookings@ingudlane.co.za www.ingudlane.co.za from R750 pppns

At the foot of the Drakensberg mountains this cosy hideaway’s unique combination of convenient location, country club atmosphere, luxury accommodation and friendly staff makes packing your bags to leave a challenge. Just less than four hours drive from Johannesburg and two hours from Durban by road with an airstrip and helipad, Champagne Sports Resort is ideally situated for corporate conferences and relaxing leisure weekends. The resort can accommodate up to 760 guests within the refurbished rooms, newly built chalets and well appointed time share units. The site now boasts a total of twelve conference venues; including the new state-of-the-art Summit Exhibition Centre and the new 1000-seat Sentinel Room, while the smaller room’s seat between 18 and 380 delegates. Conference equipment includes the most up-to-date equipment including Crestron hand held controls, overhead projectors and screens, with white boards,

flip charts, televisions and VCR machines, and 35mm projector and screens on site. Delegates have internet access in the hotel and can utilize the Business Centre across from the coffee shop. There is something for everyone to enjoy, with outstanding sporting facilities including the new basketball court and championship putt putt course, floodlit tennis courts, bowling greens and swimming pools. Children can be entertained on trampolines and play area or inside in the Kiddies Club and Teen pad. The top 25 ranked championship golf course is growing in stature. The Wellness Centre boasts a salon and gym. Or, just relax and watch the roaming herds of blesbok and wildlife that inhabits the estate. 036 468 8000, conferences@ champagnesportsresort.com, www.champagnesportsresort.com from R2190.00 for two pn

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Northern Drakensberg

Cathedral Peak Hotel Cathedral Peak Hotel offers un-rivalled access to the Drakensberg mountains within a World Heritage Site. The resort hotel offers an exceptional leisure experience where the mountain scenery is complimented by sumptuous buffet meals, warm hospitality and an extensive range of facilities and activities. Familyowned and run, the hotel recently completed extensive refurbishments to rooms and all public areas including Albert’s Cocktail Bar where fold-away windows frame spectacular mountain views. The hotel is a mere 250km from Durban and 400km from Johannesburg. Accommodation is provided in family thatched rooms, deluxe rooms, family inter-leading rooms, seven honeymoon suites and the luxurious Mponjwane Presidential suite. Guests can enjoy treatments in the Vitality Centre, sauna, gym, floodlit mini-adventure golf and a 10m climbing wall, tennis, squash, badminton, bowls, trout-fishing, archery, a marked jogging route, 56

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mountain bike trails, guided quad bike rides, and free daily guided walks (including to Bushman paintings). The 9 hole golf course with alternate tees for a 18 hole game has a fully equipped clubhouse with panoramic views. Exhilarating helicopter flights are available. Families are catered for with a custom children’s dining room, playground with trampoline, babysitters, heated outdoor pools and activity programmes. Cathedral Peak Hotel offers a fully equipped modern conference centre for up to 200 delegates and the charming stone-and-thatch chapel is ideal for memorable country weddings. The hotel now offers an on-line booking system where guests can check availability and benefit from the best tariff available. 036 488 1888 info@cathedralpeak.co.za www.cathedralpeak.co.za from R790.00 pppns

Northern Drakensberg

Montusi Mountain Lodge Peace, relaxation and romance? Escape to Montusi Mountain Lodge - situated in the malaria free northern Drakensberg, half way between Johannesburg and Durban. Fourteen exclusive garden suites, decorated in uncluttered, ethnic style accommodate a maximum of 32 guests making Montusi a romantic haven. Each suite has a lounge with a gas fireplace; and a heated bathroom with bath and separate shower. Enjoy panoramic views of the Amphitheatre from the private patio while sipping real coffee or a selection of teas. The dining room offers imaginative cuisine, with a five course dinner served by friendly staff. The dinner menu is both local and exotic – homemade soup, entrée to make your mouth water and a choice of three main courses with a delicious dessert to conclude. Breakfasts are as scrumptious: a selection of cereals, yoghurts, homemade preserves, farm-fresh eggs, bacon, sausage, fruit, cheeses,

croissants and toast. Montusi offers activities including hiking, horse riding, 4x4 and mountain bike trails (bring your bicycles), swimming pool, fishing, tennis and relaxation massages on site. Nearby there’s a golf course, scenic drives, Zulu handcrafts and the World Heritage Site Amphitheatre excursions. For the adventurous, the All Out Adventure Centre is on site: Canopy Tour, Zip Line, Flying Trapeze, Bungeebounce, Paintball and Quad biking, or the Adventure Café for spectators. Or there is always the everpopular option of doing absolutely nothing. Break away to nature: breathe sweet, mountain air and relax in the simple life at Montusi. 036-4386243 www.montusi.co.za montusi@iafrica.com from R1100 pppns GPS co-ord: 28°37.34S and 29°01.56E

Elephant Coast – KwaZulu-Natal

Banghoek Lodge Steeped in legend, immortalised in literature Banghoek Lodge is one of the Elephant Coast’s original homesteads, whose emerald lawns are cradled in a grove of fever trees beneath the Lebombo mountain range, bathed by the African sun. The historical farm offers a soul escape for visitors exploring northern KwaZulu-Natal’s riches. Surrounded by 234ha of natural acacia woodland with free roaming wildlife and abundant birds, Banghoek lies within easy reach of the area’s famous game reserves and the iSimangaliso Wetland Park world heritage site.

budget travellers. Set in private lawns with spotlessly clean ablution blocks, braai facilities, communal kitchen, swimming pool and campfire area.

Banghoek offers a variety of accommodation to cater for all budgets and types of traveller: There are 30 three star graded en-suite garden air-conditioned chalets set amongst verdant mature gardens and water features, offering privacy and comfort. Twelve rustic selfcatering bush huts provide an excellent option for schools, church groups, backpackers or

035 5731302 info@banghoeklodge.co.za www.banghoeklodge.co.za Camping: From R65-00 pppn, Self-Catering: From R80-00 pppns, Three Star Chalets: From R490 pppns on a dbb basis. Indaba 2010 – Stand DECB013

Five quiet camp sites adjacent to the bush huts share these facilities. Three guest lounge areas, serviced bar, pool table, DSTV, outside courtyards and swimming pool. Full range of meal options, including picnic and packed lunches, barbecues in a truly South-African style prepared to highest standards. Self-guided walking trails available through our own wildlife area

Elephant Coast – KwaZulu-Natal

Thonga Beach Lodge This intimate luxury 24 bed lodge is nestled on the pristine coast of Maputaland, Northern KwaZulu-Natal, within the iSimangaliso World Heritage Park. It’s the ideal place to explore unspoilt, wilderness beaches. Thonga Beach Lodge is a magical place of coastal forests, grasslands, shimmering lakes and sandy beaches. Its crystal clear, warm waters offer superb snorkelling and unspoilt off-shore scuba diving, arguably the best in South Africa. Set above a private beach and nestled into coastal dune forest, Thonga Beach Lodge captures the essence of a luxury Robinson Crusoe hideaway. Each air-conditioned suite has been carefully constructed to ensure minimal impact on the environment, with maximum comfort. Enjoy mouth-watering cuisine, romantic candlelight dinners on the beach and relaxing Sea Spa treatments. Mabibi offers superb snorkelling opportunities. 1,250 fish species (Great

Barrier Reef has 1,500) occur on the reefs in this area. Scuba diving is phenomenal, with reefs located a short distance from the lodge. Shoals of game fish, sharks and schools of bottlenose dolphins are often seen and we can accommodates scuba divers from beginner to veteran. Lake Sibaya, Southern Africa’s largest fresh water lake, is only 6kms from the lodge. Go on a guided kayaking trip or enjoy sundowners with hippos and crocodiles nearby. From November to February, witness the amazing sight of giant Leatherback and Loggerhead turtles struggling up the beach to lay their eggs. These magnificent creatures, having swum the length of the African continent, return every year to the beach where they hatched. 035 474 1473 res@isibindi.co.za www.isibindi.co.za from R2 250 pppns

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Elephant Coast – KwaZulu-Natal

&Beyond Phinda PGR Described as “Seven Worlds of Wonder”, &Beyond Phinda Private Game Reserve encompasses an impressive 23 000 hectares (56 800 acres) of prime Big Five wilderness in KwaZulu-Natal. This Reserve comprises seven distinct habitats – from dry sand forest to wetland systems and mountain ranges. Catch a glimpse of the shy suni antelope, track rhino in the bushveld, observe breeding herds of elephant in fever tree forests, hold your breath as a cheetah teaches her cubs to hunt, glide past hippo on the Mzinene River and marvel at the gracious nyala. Phinda is home to more than 3 000 of these rare antelope. Phinda Private Game Reserve is home to six magnificent lodges, each with its own individual charm and character. Phinda Mountain Lodge (25 suites scattered along the mountainside offer complete privacy and luxury), Phinda Rock Lodge (six stone and adobe suites burrow into the

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heart of the cliffside), Phinda Forest Lodge (16 Zulu Zen suites with floor-to-ceiling glass walls invite the forest inside), Phinda Vlei Lodge (The six elegant thatched suites look out onto an ever-changing parade of animals on the open vlei), Phinda Zuka Lodge (soleuse villa with four thatched en-suite cottages clustered around a central guest area with an open, interactive kitchen, a large wooden dining table for friends and family, and a cosy fireplace for evening gatherings), Phinda Homestead (sole-use safari villa with large sliding doors in four luxurious suites let in breathtaking vistas of the vast landscape below). 011 809 4441 safaris@andBeyond.com www.andbeyond.com from R 3,460 pppns

Elephant Coast – KwaZulu-Natal

Leopard Mountain Game Lodge Leopard Mountain Lodge is an award winning lodge located high up in the wild secluded hills of the 23 000 ha Zululand Rhino Reserve with spectacular views over unspoilt bushland and the Lebombo Mountains in the distance. Join us in an environment where conservation is of utmost importance and a priority in our everyday living. We welcome you to our warm, inviting facilities including our 9 private luxury chalets as well as our lounge, bar and diningroom where we will care for your every need in a relaxed atmosphere. Dine under the stars at night in our boma where our chef has prepared traditional South African Cuisine for every taste as well as a unique cellar offering some of the best South African wines. Take a game drive to get up close and personal with some of Africa's endangered species like the Black Rhino, Cheetah, Brown Hyena and Wild Dog

and enjoy a sundowner amidst the lush Zululand bushveld. Or spend the afternoon at our hide next to a large watering hole where small and large species are encountered on a daily basis. Entrust us with those special occasions - the picture perfect African bushveld lends itself to the perfect backdrop for a romantic wedding or honeymoon or just a welldeserved break.

086 111 4789 +27 35 595 8218 info@leopardmountain.co.za www.leopardmountain.co.za from R 1 800.00 pppns incl. 3 meals and 3 guided game activities daily.

Mada Fan

gascar Madagascar the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s oldest and fourth largest island is as diverse as the heavens are infinite and geographically diverse as it is biologically, creating a treasure haven of spectacular scenery of emerald rainforests, mountains, deserts, mangrove swamps, and dazzling beaches skirting the Indian Ocean and island archipelagos. Catherine Burmester, with camera and notebook in hand went scouting for creatures.

tastika Panther Chameleon

As a result of being an isolated island for millions of years a number of animal and plant species evolved in isolation in Madagascar creating one of earth’s greatest experiments in evolution. Over millennia many species arrived on Madagascar’s shores by various modes of travel, swimming, flying, or clinging to drift wood and enriching the biodiversity further. The species made landfall spreading all over the island experiencing the range of habitats and evolving subtly as they encountered new environments, some to the extent that new species were formed, resulting in an evolutionary process known as adaptive radiation, which culminated in a myriad of new species found nowhere else on earth.

Madagascar’s unique biodiversity makes it one of the most enthralling destinations in the world and my husband Ryan and myself decided to spend some time on the magical island as part of our belated honeymoon.

Hog Nose Snake After a stop in Nosy Be, we made our way to Nosy Komba a smaller island between Nosy Be and the mainland across the bay where we encountered the beautiful hog nose snake lazing about the path, which allowed me to capture his magnificent black and yellow checker board form on camera. Further exploration brought our horrified Malagassy guide and us into contact with a harmless tree snake effortlessly gliding through the branches. Vilandeer, our guide, retreated explaining that the snake was very dangerous. Some of the Malagassy believe the tree snake to have the powers of possession, sporting a pale innocuous green body and culminating in a bright red tail, the reason for its notoriety. It is said that the harmless tree snake mesmerises cattle and people from the tree tops and then stiffening its body like an arrow drops down tail first to impale its hapless victim, resulting in a blood red tail. Black lemurs bounced around in the trees feeding on mangos oblivious of a ground boa camouflaged on the forest floor.

We taxied our way on boat from Nosy Komba to Port Ankify on the mainland where we met up with our guide Goulam, fluent in English and knowledgeable on Madagascan wildlife and headed off in his 4x4 to his rustic lodge adjacent to the spectacular Ankarana National Park situated further north on the western side of the mainland.

greeted by the reverberating screech of cicadas lasting till nightfall, a sound which I find enthralling as it feels as the day is starting with a crescendo of suspense of what may lie ahead pulsating through the forest.

Fire Flies and Frogs

Primitive vasa parrots also added to the cacophony of sound while pesky orange flies would chase us around diving into our necks delivering a nasty bite (much like a horse fly) and copious amounts of insect repellent did nothing to deter them, forcing us to pick leafy branches and wave them wildly around ourselves to ward them off. The forest was alive with life and Goulam pointed out diminutive nocturnal sportive lemurs in the nooks of trees resting their chins on little human like fingers all the while staring benignly at us as we passed by.

Goulam stopped on the way at road side stores purchasing various items for lunch, including crabs and exotic fruits before we arrived at his lodge being a small wooden hut with a double bed taking up most of the space and the shower comprising of 2 buckets filled with cold water from the well and a little jug to douse ourselves. The toilets were down the drag and again a bucket was supplied with a jug to flush the loo. At night after generator was turned off it seemed as though the stars had floated down around us as little male fire flies were lighting up to attract a mate. The rain showers at night would set off the frog chorus, a cacophony of sound that reverberated into the night drowning out the resident night jar.

Pinnacles called Tsingy Ankarana is a small vegetated plateau with ancient 150 million year old limestone elevations that exceed 1,200 meters above sea level. With an average rainfall of 1,800 millimeters the underlying rocks have eroded vastly producing caves and underground streams, forming a karst topography. The limestone has also eroded from the top creating a massif of sharply jagged limestone pinnacles known as “tsingy”, formed over centuries by the movement of wind and water and often towering several meters into the air they are a spectacular sight. Tsingy in Malagassy means ‘walk on tip toe’ because if you slipped on the tsingy you could be skewered like a sosatie on one of the spires, so we were mindful of our steps as we surveyed the strikingly unusual landscape. The tsingy is surrounded with sunken dry deciduous forests containing a high density of lemurs, bats, birds and reptiles. We started our walks around 7am and were

Vasa Parrots and Lemurs

Spiders and Bats Families of the diurnal crowned lemurs browsed in the trees, whilst large red skinks scurried over the tapestry of leaves below and strange butterfly nymphs resembling bits of scraggly cotton wool were bustling around on branches. We ventured down in to the cave system descending into complete darkness and scrambled around stalagmites and stalactites illuminated by our head torches revealing some of the resident spiders and bats hanging huddled together squeaking and twitching at our presence. Our night walks were fascinating as Goulam with his x-ray like vision managed to detect the elusive and extraordinary leaf-tailed gecko tucked away on a branch its form melting into the bark as their camouflage is uncanny. The gecko’s body indents perfectly around the branch eliminating any shadow and sporting a splayed tail and the ability to employ colour change tactics it is almost undetectable save for its large beautiful speckled eyes.

Orchids and Baobabs We were captivated by the landscape as at times it felt as though we were

Hognose snake – Nosy Komba

Tree frog – Andasibe

Emperor Moth – Ankarana

Zonosaurus skink

Panther chameleon

Giraffe-necked weevil female

Oustalets Chameleon

Sportive lemur – Ankarana

Tree Boa – Andasibe

Stick insects mating – Andasibe

Indri lemur – Andasibe

walking on another planet, the surroundings seeming not of this world. Orchids hung delicately from trees, baobabs reached skyward and strange tubors culminated into long twisting vines winding their way around the vegetation. Red flowers hung over the tsingy like little lanterns, strange lilies protruded from crevices and foliage clung to the rocks resembling beautiful red coral in an ancient seabed. The forest floor was bedecked in a tapestry of leaves forming pathways which snakes and chameleons silently traversed. We made our way back to Nosy Be and flew directly to Antanarivo. Climbing into an ancient taxi (a little Renault) held together by bits and bobs we travelled east for 3 hours to Andasibe with the tar clearly visible through the cracks in the floor boards allowing the exhaust fumes to sometimes pervade the cab. We jiggled along cobbled roads passing rice paddies and men pulling along carts laden with goods or paying passengers and noticed the change in architecture which at times resembled little European villages with tall houses hugging narrow streets surrounded by green valleys compared to the wooden huts up north. Above: Goulam Lodge Ankarana Below: Tsingy Ankarana.

Fauna and flora of Andasibe’s Rainforests We arrived in Andasibe in time to find a hotel and an amazing guide Herman who was to unveil the beauty and unique fauna and flora of Andasibe’s rainforests. Herman transformed our walks from the ordinary to spectacular with his ability to see right through the forest pointing out a pair of mating stick insects, reed frogs, tree boas and the most bizarre looking giraffe beetle. He knew how to settle down unobtrusively in the forest and marvel at the diademed sifaka lemurs as they browsed close by in the trees. In places the forest was a velvet carpet of magical green moss with ferns and lichens growing from branches and the indri lemurs would pierce the forest orchestra with their eerie wailing song. Their enchanting songs can be heard echoing for miles in the forest from early in the morning and was a magical sound to awaken to as our accommodation Hotel Feon ny Ala which aptly means voice of the forest was situated over looking the river adjacent to the reserve. The view was beautiful with steam rising off the river and floating into the forest as birds cavorted along the water’s edge. Herman informed us that the Indri lemurs live up to about 60 years of age, are monogamous and the largest of all the lemurs and the only one with virtually no tail. As we were scrambling up a steep slope trying to achieve a better view of the Indris, they descended down the trees and gazed at us with piercing blue eyes looking like a strange teddy bear panda. These gorgeous, black and white lemurs feed on complex carbohydrates and so need to spend much of the day resting in order to digest their food. Indri in Malagassy, means ‘look up there’ and was mistaken for the lemurs name by an English explorer being shown the lemurs by locals. The Malagassy name for the indri is babakota meaning “father of Koto.” Indri lemurs are endangered as they are sensitive to habitat disturbances and not only does deforestation threaten the Indris’ environment but they also have never survived in captivity as they simply stop eating. The forest imbued in us a sense of wonderment and immense fascination for Madagascar as we had only glimpsed the surface of Madagascar’s vast bio-diversity which has one of the highest percentages of endemic species in the world.

Wi l d l a n d s Co n s e r v a t i o n Tr u s t

THREE CRANES CHALLENGE RAISING FUNDS FOR THE PROTECTION OF THE CRITICALLY ENDANGERED WATTLED CRANE AND KEY WATER SOURCES A bird flies overhead, its long white neck extends elegantly forward, its grey legs straight out behind, and its giant body is carried by swooping wings. Below it, a hundred different grasses sway in a gentle breeze over rolling hills between patches of lush forest. A thick mist hovers in the valley and there is a slight chill in the air. This is the Karkloof, in the KwaZulu-Natal Midlands, and its under threat. In fact, the bird you just saw flying overhead would have had twitchers scrambling for their binoculars, mouths ajar, and counting their lucky stars. Wattled Crane populations have declined dramatically in South Africa over the last 20 years and are in danger of disappearing from the country altogether, there are only 235 birds left. The reason these birds are so critically endangered is largely due to the loss of their habitat. The grasslands of the Karkloof are their

ideal breeding grounds and these grasslands are being lost to development and agriculture. But it’s not all bad news. As part of their Stewardship programme, Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife are working hard to conserve this area and with funding from the Wildlands Conservation Trust recently purchased a portion of land which consolidates a large portion of the area. The Dartmoor farm consolidates another 1050 ha of land. “Our intention is ultimately to support the establishment of a consolidated reserve that effectively protects the grasslands and forests associated with the upper Karkloof valley including key species, such as Wattled Crane and key water sources, (there are three rivers that arise in the Dartmoor area)”, said Wildlands Conservation Trust CEO, Dr Andrew Venter. The next step will be to get the land that Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife is currently managing,

together with the Dartmoor property and the Karkloof Nature Reserve, formally proclaimed as a nature reserve. This status would ensure the long-term future protection of the land. Wildlands will further support Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife with this process by supporting the proclamation of the reserve and development and implementation of management plans for the reserve. To aid with raising funds and awareness for the plight of the Karkloof, Wildlands recently held the Three Cranes Challenge, a three-day trail run through the Karkloof valley. “We initiated the Three Cranes Challenge with the intention of establishing an event that will both profile the Karkloof area and raise money, sustainably and for the long term, to continue to help with underwriting its management”, said the CEO. Wildlands partners with Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife and the Karkloof Conservancy around the

Wildlands Conservation Trusts' vision is to be a centre of excellence for the restoration and conservation of natural

Spor t for the

Co n s e r v a t i o n o f o u r Wi l d H e r i t a g e

The Three Cranes Challenge is a gruelling three-day trail run through the lush forests and grasslands of the Karkloof. Runners are rewarded with spectacular scenery and the knowledge they’re helping to conserve it. All three of South Africa’s crane species are found in the Karkloof region: The Blue Crane, The Grey-Crowned Crane and the Wattled Crane. (Inset) Bella the young Wattled Crane. Bella is captive bred as part of an operation to help resuscitate the drastically declining numbers of Wattled Crane in the country. event, both of which will receive 25% of the nett profits from the event. The funds that accrue to the Karkloof Conservancy from the event will go towards the cost of running the Karkloof Conservation Centre and other projects the conservancy will be rolling out in the valley over time, primarily environmental education projects. The centre is a vital educational touch point for the region and another initiative supported by Wildlands Conservation Trust. The 25% that accrues to Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife and the remaining 50% nett income generated for the Wildlands Conservation Trust will be used to support the organisation’s respective conservation efforts in the area.

The gruelling event was held for the first time in February this year and the winning male and female runners won something better than prize money. They were given the honour of naming two rather cute and fluffy, healthy Wattled Crane chicks who have recently joined the ‘Adopt a Crane’ programme which funds the rehabilitation and upkeep of orphaned and injured cranes. Danni and Bella are being captive bred in an attempt to resuscitate the declining numbers of these majestic birds. “The real significance of naming the chicks is that it draws attention to the plight of the birds and how seriously threatened they are. Their single biggest challenge is habitat and nesting sites in particular. That’s why Dartmoor is important. Securing

it means creating more nesting sites in years to come”, said Dr Venter.

For more information Karkloof Conservancy and the Karkloof Conservation Centre call 033 330 4590 or e-mail karkloofcentre@telkomsa.net. Stewardship Programme visit www.kznwildlife. com (under conservation planning) Three Cranes Challenge visit www.3craneschallenge.co.za Crane Foundation and the Wattled Crane visit: www.kzncrane.co.za

ecosystems through the development of innovative socio-economic partnerships.

www.wildlands.co.za

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THE MAGAZINE THAT TAKES YOU THERE

Wind Bag

by David Muirhead

Book Reviews How to Bring Up Monsters

Child Rearing for Politically Correct Imbeciles Dr Benjamin Crock This book isn’t about anything much, at least nothing that the author won’t amend or refute in the sequel. It consists of 3 pages if you don’t count the 250 page preface which extols the magnificent brain power and allround wonderfulness of the author while anecdotally listing his hundreds of celebrity friends. There is an interesting footnote on Page 251 about the dos and don’ts of wiping a baby’s bottom with pages torn out of Dr Crock’s first book on child rearing.

The Naked Potter J Rowling and J Oliver If you’ve ever wanted to find out how to cook Hogwart a la Provencal, this is the cook book for you. It is brimming with recipes which would make any young culinary wizard’s mouth water. Reputedly the US Army’s 4th and 5th Logistical Support Divisions, aided by the Navy’s Pacific Fleet have been enlisted to help transport the colossal print run to eagerly awaiting bookstores around the planet. All other titles, including Tiredlight and An Incomprehensible History of Time have been taken off the shelves and sent for pulping to make way for this new masterwork. Useful tips in the appendix on how to change the tyre on a motor scooter while balancing a cabbage and two turnips in your left hand, together with hints on the returns you can reasonably expect from a 625 billion dollar investment - if you happen to have 625 billion dollars lying around, that is.

Screw You, I’m Rich

A Tale of Two Titties

Richard Brand™

Will B Smith

A welcome addition to the shelves of any daydreaming couch potato who thinks reading books by self-promoting, in-yourface multi millionaires will somehow magically propel them into the ranks of the mega rich. Brand™ spends a lot of time fiddling about with hot air balloons and visiting the dentist to get his smile polished, as well as giving useful tips on how to pop up unexpectedly whenever a cameraman is setting up his tripod. Disappointingly, there is little in the book about tax dodging, shafting business partners, hoodwinking customers , or selling your mother into slavery which the naive or mean-minded may feel has something to do with how otherwise unremarkable men become billionaires.

Sticking to his tried and tested formula, the author once again regales us with a fastpaced story of two incredibly handsome, well-built men - one a polo-playing billionaire rocket scientist and the other a brooding jet fighter pilot with a penchant for 18th century poetry - both in tongue-lolling pursuit of the same enigmatic, bogglingly beautiful and well-endowed woman (the Titties of the title). Set against the stark landscape of the unforgiving African savannah, the two muscular protagonists battle it out, swatting aside leopards and pugnacious lone buffalo, to gain the woman’s favour. You’ll be astonished by the gripping climax, assuming you haven’t nodded off by then.

Dis Place J M Cozihere Written in the author’s usual clipped and austere style, the novel tells the story of a professor of English literature who finds himself having to attend award ceremonies in places like Stockholm every time his finger touches a keyboard or even when he jots down his grocery list on the back of an envelope . Hounded by gibbering literary committees desperate to thrust large cheques into his trouser pocket, the professor escapes to a life of relative anonymity in Australia. The Dis Place of the title is believed to be modelled on Brisbane, a city whose library only has one book, a slim volume currently on loan to a local publican who uses it to prop up the leg of a wonky barstool.

The Origin of Specie* Charles Duh Dah Wyn This seminal work traces the evolution of pocket change from its first emergence at the dawn of the Macro Economic Age. We are all vaguely familiar with these small, timid metal disks. They have successfully adapted to the harsh environment of the modern world - dominated as it is by large denomination notes and voracious plastic cards - by hiding during the day in the slots of parking meters, automatic confectionary dispensers and one-armed bandits. Professor Duh Dah Wyn takes us back to the origins of specie, revealing the astonishing fact that a mere hundred and fifty years ago, when the sun was .000001 degrees cooler, you could buy a cottage in the country for ten shillings and still have a few pennies left for the electricity bill, not that electricity had been invented back then. *Coins, for those of you don’t work in banks.

WILDSIDE 1of4 2010

KwaZulu-Natal

Durban / Battlefields / Berg / Midlands / South Coast

• 120 Room Hotel, 3 star AA approved • Overlooking Scottburgh Beach • Daily & Evening Entertainment • 40 mins. from Durban • Ideal for Golf, Bowls & Weddings

• Unbeatable value from R290 pp sharing including 3 meals Tel: 039 978 3361 info@bluemarlin.co.za www.bluemarlin.co.za Fax: 039 976 0971 70

WILDSIDE 1of4 2010

KwaZulu-Natal

Elephant Coast / Zululand

Free State LALA NATHI GUEST HOUSE

Field Guide & Nature Training

La La Nathi is the ideal stopover choice, situated on the N3 just outside the historic town of Harrismith in the Eastern Free State Highlands and a haven of peace for the weary traveller. The Drakensberg mountains, Clarens, and Golden Gate are within easy reach.

Creating awareness trough Wilderness info@bhejanenaturetraining.com

Tel: 058 623 0282 • Email: lalanati@internext.co.za • www.lalanathi.co.za

WILDSIDE

Professional Field Guide (6 m) FGASA Level 1 (30 days) FGASA Trails Guide (30 days) Next Level 1 course Starts 5 October ‘09

TRAVEL & ADVENTURE GUIDE

THE PLACE TO BE FOUND

Now operating from a new unfenced camp in the Thanda Private Game Reserve, KZN

Contact Tora Roberts to advertise in the Free State Guide: Cell: 082 376 9115 Fax: 086 671 1505 Email: tora@wildsidesa.co.za

www.bhejanenaturetraining.com Contact:

083 726 3826

Muzi Pan Canoe Adventures

Community based accredited canoe adventure guides on Muzi Pan

Tel: Themba 073 161 8189

WILDSIDE TRAVEL & ADVENTURE GUIDE

THE PLACE TO BE FOUND

Contact Tora Roberts to advertise in the KwaZulu-Natal Elephant Coast Travel & Adventure Guide: Cell: 082 376 9115 Fax: 086 671 1505 Email: tora@wildsidesa.co.za

Guided birding trails KOSI BAY Comfortable self catering lodge and luxury guesthouse set among tall trees in a quiet rural area close to beaches, lakes & game parks.

Tel. (035) 592 9728, 072 446 1525 www.kosi.co.za

WILDSIDE 1of4 2010

Eastern Cape

WILDSIDE TRAVEL & ADVENTURE GUIDE

THE PLACE TO BE FOUND

Contact Tora Roberts to advertise in the Eastern Cape Guide: Cell: 082 376 9115 Fax: 086 671 1505 Email: tora@wildsidesa.co.za

Mbotyi is the perfect place for anyone looking for a peaceful and tranquil holiday or for the adventurous wanting to explore the many beautiful and wild treasures this coast has to offer. Telephone: 039 253 7200/1 • Cellphone: 082 674 1064 • Fax: 039 253 7202 • www.mbotyi.co.za

Mozambique

The Kob Inn is the perfect venue for your special holiday. Overnight accommodation and three great meals per day! For further info contact: Kob Inn Beach Resort Tel 047 4990011, Fax 047 4990016 Email : info@kobinn.co.za www.kobinn.co.za

barra RESERVATIONS Tel: +27 11 3143355 info@barraresorts.com 72

WILDSIDE 1of4 2010

Barra Lodge

Flamingo Bay

Pomene Lodge