Wildside Magazine Summer 2010 by rod macleod

WILDSIDE

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M A G A Z I N E

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E C O T R AV E L • O U T D O O R A D V E N T U R E • C O N S E R VAT I O N

ISLAND ESCAPES 2010 TOP SPOTS

RHINO WAR

NIKON PHOTO COMP SUMMER R21.95

ELEPHANT COAST

MARINE ADVENTURE

READER SPECIALS

SURF SAFARI

MAROT & SANDERS 0811/8923 F

Perspective This vibrant summer edition of Wildside showcases superb places to stay in the annual Top Spots feature, keeps you informed on the key conservation issues and has a variety of interesting articles and exciting competitions. Wildside is the magazine that takes you there - to exciting destinations. Wildside is for discerning readers who love the outdoors, who care about the world around them from marine life, birdlife and wildlife, to trees and mountains. It is for people who want to get out there. Wildside is a quarterly magazine, and if you want to be sure not to miss a single edition, then visit our website and subscribe on line – www.wildsidesa.co.za. Dried soft coral washed up on a remote beach in the Quirimbas Archipelago, Mozambique.

Take photographs, leave footprints. Nkosi sikelela iAfrica

WILDSIDE Vol 10 No 4 of 4 2010 Summer Edition

CONTRIBUTORS

EDITOR Rod MacLeod – Cell: 082 782 3150 E-mail:rod@wildsidesa.co.za

MANAGING EDITOR Jennifer Crawford – Cell: 082 329 1739 E-mail: editor@wildsidesa.co.za

EDITORIAL All requests, submissions, including letters: editor@wildsidesa.co.za

ADVERTISING SALES Tora Roberts – Tel: 031 767 1512 Cell: 082 376 9115 – Fax: 086 6711 505 E-mail: tora@wildsidesa.co.za

PRODUCTION Editorial Offices Wildside Publishing PO Box 2292, Prestondale, 4021 KZN

SUBSCRIPTIONS www.wildsidesa.co.za

PUBLISHERS Wildside Publishing cc

PRINTERS CTP, Cape Town

DISTRIBUTION

Rod MacLeod Rod visited Rocktail Beach Camp to write the article and take the photographs. His professional photographer’s eye, and the fact that he is always ready with camera at hand, meant that he captured a unique and rare shot of mating loggerhead turtles out at sea.

Jennifer Crawford Jennifer went to the Quirimbas Archipelago and found that nothing has changed since her last visit six years ago – it is all as exquisite as ever. This time though, with a dive qualification under her belt, she was able to write to the 200m vertical drop offs and spectacular marine life to be found.

Dr Bandile Mkhize Chief Executive Officer of Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife gives his perspective on the rhino poaching in this edition bringing much insight and information to this key issue which has constantly been in the headlines.

Debbie Cooper Regular Wildside writer Debbie Cooper was hugely excited to take on the sea kayaking safari assignment which took her to the southern part of the Quirimbas Archipelago and to Ibo Island Lodge. Debbie brings much insight into this region which is rich in history and natural beauty.

David Muirhead Published author and columnist David Muirhead has been writing hilarious, witty columns for Wildside for several years. His columns always have important social commentary and are presented in a way that only this very talented writer can present them.

RNA Cover image: An aerial photograph of Medjumbe Island in the Quirimbas Archipelago northern Mozambique showing the distinctive sand spit. Photographed by Wildside. See full story page 43. Wildside magazine, logo, Wildside Travel and brand ownership rests with Wildside Publishing cc. Copyrights for material produced in this magazine belong to Wildside Publishing. All rights are reserved and no material from this magazine may be reproduced by any means without the written consent of the publishers. The views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the Publishers nor of KZN Wildlife. Readers who follow advice, expressed or implied, on activities and accommodation do so entirely at their own risk. All competition winners will be announced in Wildside only. Winners are requested to contact the managing editor to claim their prize.

Kirsty Kyle Born and raised in Kosi Bay in KwaZulu-Natal, Kirsty has spent her entire life as she says ‘living conservation’ and has developed more than just a keen interest in frogs which she introduces in this edition. Her delightful article may make you fall in love with frogs.

Matthew Lewthwaite Durban born and bred, Matthew is a 21 year old student studying marketing in Cape Town. He is an avid surfer who loves the sea and for this edition wrote about a recent surf safari to Bali with a group of friends.

Simone Dale Simone writes an article for the My Story section about her recent fund-raising trail in Zululand. Her article contributes to drawing attention to rhino poaching and reminds us of the beauty of our wildlife. Readers are invited to contribute to the fund-raising campaign.

www.wildsidesa.co.za WILDSIDE SUPPORTS MEDIA FREEDOM

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Above: Mating Loggerhead Turtles, Rocktail Bay, Maputaland. Below left: Kayak Safari, Ibo Island, Mozambique.

10-day KZN Adventure Tour – Affordable Family Holiday

This self-drive 10 day adventure holiday through KZN takes in the bush, the beach and the ‘berg offering you affordability in Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife’s accommodation, and placing you squarely in the heart of protected areas in these regions meaning spectacular scenery and wildlife.

The Rhino War Newspapers have been reporting on poaching incidents and arrests, but what is really going on? Chief Executive Officer of Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife writes an article for Wildside on the rhino poaching that gives insight into this key conservation issue.

Elephant Coast - Rocktail Beach Camp The Elephant Coast feature spread opens with a rare and unique photograph of loggerhead turtles mating in the ocean. This wildlife spectacle symbolises the wild and beautiful Elephant Coast which stretches for 200km along the northern coast of KZN.

Kiss a Toad Perhaps after reading this story about frogs you may want to kiss a frog instead of a prince. Learn about these delightful creatures so often overlooked.

ENTER THE WILDSIDE NIKON 2010 PHOTOGRAPHIC COMPETITION

PG16

OVERALL PRIZE: One winner to receive R20 000 worth of NIKON equipment and a 3 night stay for 2 people at Esiweni Lodge worth R12 870. QUARTERLY PRIZES: Enter up to 3 pictures per quarter. Winners chosen per quarter will each receive a pair of Action 8x40 Nikon binoculars valued at R1000. Prizes may not be exchanged for cash.

To enter log on to: www.wildsidesa.co.za (Terms and conditions apply)

THE MAGAZINE THAT TAKES YOU THERE

Quirimbas Archipelago – Mozambique

Top Spots

QUIRIMBAS ARCHIPELAGO

Wildside makes an annual selection of top spots for this feature. Each establishment has been visited by Wildside and recommended for offering something special.

This chain of 32 islands in northern Mozambique are unspoilt and offer exciting island escapes. Wildside visited Vamizi, Medjumbe and Ibo islands to explore the options.

Vamizi Island This is one of the most northerly islands giving it a sense of wild beauty and remoteness.

Medjumbe Island Medjumbe is almost in the middle of the chain of islands and its unique sand spit differentiates it.

Ibo Island This feature spread on Ibo Island showcases all the possibilities here including staying on the island at the beautiful Ibo Island Lodge owned by Kevin and Fiona Record, or taking part in the first of its kind – a sea kayak and dhow safari – an innovative adventure conceptualised by the Records.

COMPETITIONS AND READER OFFERS

Win a diving trip to Mozambique visit www.wildsidesa.co.za

Win a diving atlas

Check the website for the winners of the week stay at Verlorenkloof in Mpumalanga and the three-night breakaway experience at Brookdale Health Hydro in the KZN Midlands.

My Story My Story is the page for what is really your story. Wildside invites you to share your experiences. It can be about a family trip to the bush, or a lone adventure to an island, a hike with friends, a special sighting, or about what you think of hunting, of places you stayed at, or good and perhaps not such good value in travel. It is after all, your story. Email your story to – editor@wildsidesa.co.za

Walking with Rhino’s Simone Dale shares her experience of a five day adventure into the heart of Zululand to raise funds to support anti-poaching units. I signal to our guides. They turn to me, and I indicate, ‘ahead and to the right’. They turn to look, stop the group, and seconds later, a large white rhino crashes through the brush ahead and charges off in the other direction. She’s smelled us and taken fright. It’s hard to imagine that a giant prehistoriclooking creature with a massive horn on its head could possibly be afraid of us. But they are. And they have every reason to be. Poaching of rhino has been going on for decades and just over 100 years ago the population in South Africa was almost decimated entirely. The recent resurgence of rhino poaching, fuelled by greed and a thriving industry of eastern medicines (proved ineffective by scientific studies), is threatening South Africa’s rhino populations. She runs a distance and turns back to face us. Our guides, Paul Cryer and Dylan Holmes, have moved the group and a comfort zone is re-established, for us, and for her. I’m walking with a group of eight adventurous individuals doing a five day trek through Zululand to raise funds for rhino conservation in the

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region. Save the Rhino International is holding events like this to protect the five species of rhino around the world, most of which are critically endangered. The walk, organised by local nonprofit organisation, the Wildlands Conservation Trust, who I work for, took us through the beautiful Somkhanda and Zululand Rhino Reserves and an 8km stretch of community land between them. Before we set off from Milimane Camp in the community-owned Somkhanda Game Reserve, we sit under an acacia tree at the edge of the camp and lead guide Paul Cryer prepares us. Simply the time he takes to do this, makes me feel a growing sense of gratitude for what I am about to experience and a greater respect for the rolling hills before us and the wildlife they’re home to. It’s the end of winter, before the first spring rains, and everything is dry, dusty and brown. The first day is hot, Zululand hot, and although the distance is do-able, having a limited amount of water is not. Despite being warned to take small sips, I can’t resist the urge to gulp, and run precariously low with two hours walking still

to go on the first day. It made me think about water in a way I never have before – that it won’t always be there, in ready abundance. The next four days are a fusion of meditative walking – between 12 and 20km a day – lunchtime siestas, campfire potjies, storytelling, night watch and sleeping under the stars. We see lots of game: giraffe, impala, nyala, wildebeest, warthogs. Paul and Dylan point out the special little things: a myriad of spoor and dung; rhino middens and the stories that surround them; trees and all their natural uses. But we are here for the rhinos and they must have known it, because we see 16 rhino’s in five days, what a privilege. Three are black rhino – two of which take a keen interest in us, demanding brisk-walking getaways - and the remainder, white rhino. What incredible animals they are. We end the walk with a visit to Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park to learn more about the complexities of rhino poaching and how funds raised will help support antipoaching units. I leave in awe of one of the most iconic species on

the planet; hopeful knowing that there are people doing everything they can to protect them, but heartbroken at the thought that we could destroy them completely in matter of decades.

TO CONTRIBUTE

The funds raised from the Rhino Walk are going towards guide training and equipment for the anti-poaching units in the Somkhanda and Zululand Rhino reserves as well as Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park. If you’d like to contribute, please contact me on 033 343 6380 or e-mail simoned@wildlands.co.za. Funds are being channelled through the Wildlands Conservation Trust, a registered nonprofit organisation with a 20 year history of biodiversity conservation in South Africa.

www.wildlands.co.za

TAKE AN ADVENTURE TOUR WITH EZEMVELO KZN WILDLIFE

10-DAY ADVENTURE TOUR THROUGH KWAZULU-NATAL

Didima Resort

Experience the Berg, Beach & Bush in One Holiday With its various cultures, landscapes and pleasures, KwaZulu-Natal has the key elements for a great holiday. For nature lovers the list of destinations is endless, stretching from the heights of the uKhahlamba - Drakensberg Park World Heritage Site, through to the tropical savannahs of Zululand where the Big 5 inhabit Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park, and on to the coral reefs of the Indian Ocean. Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife Resorts invites you to enjoy the ultimate self-drive holiday.

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DIDIMA RESORT

Days 1 – 3 Breathtaking Drakensberg scenery

HILLTOP RESORT 380 km

km 141

UMLALAZI RESORT

Days 4 – 5 Relax on the beach

Days 6 – 8 The ‘Big 5’

193 km

NTSHONDWE RESORT

Days 9 – 10 A wildlife experience second to none

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Days 1 – 3 Breathtaking Drakensberg scenery

DIDIMA RESORT IN THE UKHAHLAMBA DRAKENSBERG PARK – BREATHTAKING SCENERY Escape from busy city living to Didima Resort in the uKhahlamba - Drakensberg Park. A 4-hour drive from Gauteng, Didima Resort offers everything from serious hiking and gentle walks along crystal streams to breathtaking views, towering mountains and cascading waterfalls. The uKhahlamba-Drakensberg Park is a 200-kilometre-long mountainous wonderland and world heritage site. Tucked into the heart of the uKhahlamba Drakensberg Park and surrounded by a living tapestry of old and new Africa, Didima Resort’s mountain setting is breathtaking. Just 285 kilometres from Durban and 402 kilometres from Johannesburg this unique resort allows visitors a glimpse into the fascinating culture of the San people from the comfort of luxurious accommodation facilities.

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This spectacular natural landscape also has many rock shelters containing the largest and most concentrated group of paintings in Africa south of the Sahara. These were created by the San people over a period of at least 4000 years. The rock paintings are outstanding in quality and diversity, representing the spiritual life of the San people. The exceptional natural beauty of the uKhahlamba - Drakensberg Park is evident in it soaring basaltic buttresses, golden sandstone ramparts, rolling grasslands, steep-sided river valleys and rocky gorges. The area has an incredibly rich biodiversity including many endemic species. Didima Resort features 62 two-bed luxury chalets, 2 four-bed cabins, a twobed honeymoon suite and a six-bed bungalow, each en-suite, a lounge/dining area and a kitchen. Each of the two-bed chalets are back to back and an interleading door allows the two chalets to be converted into a four-bed family unit with self-catering facilities. All accommodation offers satellite television and cosy fireplaces.

FAST FACTS Didima Resort Accommodation: Chalet from R750 per night (max 4 people per chalet) Pricing: Unit Charge per night 28 x 2-bed chalets (non-self catered) – R750 32 x 2-bed chalets (self-catering) – R790 2 x 4-bed chalets (self-catering) – R1560 1 x 6-bed bungalow (self-catering) – R1270 Distance: 402 km from Johannesburg. Activities:

• Hiking • Trout fishing • Swimming • Tennis • Helicopter

rides available at Cathedral Peak Hotel

• Nine-hole golf

course available at Cathedral Peak Hotel • Horse rides available at Cathedral Peak Hotel

GPS: Latitude: 28º 56’ 35.68” S; Longitude: 29º 13’ 54.17” E

Days 4 – 5 Relax on the beach

UMLALAZI RESORT – RELAX ON THE BEACH Make your way through the Midlands and then along up the KwaZulu-Natal North Coast to Umlalazi Nature Reserve. Approximately 380 kilometres from Didima Resort, Umlalazi Nature Reserve offers visitors a small piece of paradise with secluded sandy beaches, outdoor adventure and unique and unusual attractions. This beautiful coastal resort is conveniently nestled in the dunes and thick coastal forest on the outskirts of the coastal town of Mtunzini on the KwaZulu-Natal North Coast. Umlalazi was established as a protected area in 1948 and is 1028 hectares in extent. This ideal holiday spot offers 20 kilometres of unspoilt beaches, a beautiful lagoon and a variety of activities. Umlalazi Nature Reserve has the rare distinction of offering two unique and unusual attractions: regular sightings of the rare palm-nut vulture and the fascinating Raffia Palm Monument. The raffia palm is the largest palm in the world.

Umlalazi is superb for birding and there are three self-guided trails through mangrove swamps, dune forests and along the edge of the river. There is an easy walk through one of the best examples of mangrove swamps in South Africa, where several species of mangrove can be found. A second walk leads through the dune forest where bushpig, bushbuck and red, grey and blue duiker may occasionally be seen. A third trail leads through dune forest and mangrove swamp along the edge of the river. Wildflowers and a great variety of bird life can be seen. Visitors may also come across colonies of fiddler crabs and fascinating mud-skippers. Umlalazi Resort offers 13 five-bed log cabins set into the lush coastal dune forest. Each log cabin features two bedrooms, a combined lounge/dining room, a fully equipped kitchenette, a bathroom with shower or bath, verandas and barbecue facilities. All 13 units are equipped with DSTV. Cabins are fully equipped, but visitors must bring their own provisions and are responsible for their own cooking and washing up. The cabins are serviced daily.

FAST FACTS Umlalazi Nature Reserve Accommodation: Log cabins: 13 x 5-bed log cabins (self-catering) – R990 (Max 5 people per cabin) Pricing: Unit Charge Activities:

• Swimming • Surfing • Windsurfing • Angling • Beach walks • Water-skiing • Boating • Canoeing

• Trampolines • Tennis wall • Swimming pool • Swings and

playground equipment • Self-guided trails

Distance: Approximately 380 km from Didima GPS: Latitude: 28º 57’ 24.74” S; Longitude: 31º 46’ 19” E

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Days 6 – 8 ‘The Big 5’

HILLTOP RESORT IN HLUHLUWE-IMFOLOZI PARK – THE ‘BIG 5’ Travel north to Zululand to spend three nights at Hilltop Resort in one of South Africa’s most celebrated game parks. Characterised by evergreen forest, hills and river valleys, HluhluweiMfolozi Park is renowned for its variety of animal and bird life, and a rich diversity of plants. Set in the heart of Zululand, the oldest game park in Africa where Zulu kings such as Dingiswayo and Shaka hunted and put in place the first conservation laws, where today the “big five” of African legend stalk the verdant savannah. Established in 1895, Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park, along with the iSimangaliso Wetland Park, is the oldest game park in Africa. With its huge diversity of wildlife, landscapes and scenery, it has accommodation from the luxurious Hilltop Resort. The park offers a wide range of activities to the many people that visit it: Game viewing, bird watching, the spir-

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itual upliftment and enjoyment of a wilderness trail or just a walk in the bush, Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park offers it all. Situated high on the edge of a steep forested slope, the award-winning Hilltop Resort commands breathtaking views of the Zululand hills and valleys. Hilltop’s rustic design merges tastefully with the natural surroundings, and at its high altitude the resort is cooler than the rest of the reserve, a welcome retreat after a hot day’s game viewing. Comfort is the keynote of Hilltop’s chalets, with spacious bedrooms and wide verandas and fully equipped kitchenettes; alternatively meals can be enjoyed at Mpunyane Restaurant, which caters for all tastes. There is also the Uzavolo Bar, an attractive pub and lounge decorated with photographs and memorabilia, which lends itself to discussions of the day’s experiences. The self-catering chalets at Hilltop Resort are geared towards convenience. The 7 two-bed chalets, and the 22 fourbed chalets, each have a sleeper couch for an extra guest. For tour groups there are 20 two-bed units, each with a bar

fridge and tea/coffee facilities. Hilltop also offers 20 comfortable, value-for-money twin-bed rondavels with a communal kitchen and ablution facilities. Other amenities include a petrol station and a well-stocked curio shop. FAST FACTS Hilltop Accommodation: Chalets from R960 per night (max 4 people per chalet) Rondavels from R480 per night (max 2 people per rondavel) 7 x 2-bed chalets (self-catering) – R960 22 x 4-bed chalets (self-catering) – R1930 20 x 2-bed rondavels – R480 20 x 2-bed (non-self catering) – R960 Pricing: Unit Charge per night Activities:

• Swimming pool • Jungle gym • Guided game drives

• Game viewing

hides

• Picnic sites • Wilderness trails • Self-guided trails

Distance: Approximately 141km from Umlalazi Resort GPS: Latitude: 28º 05’ 05.72” S; Longitude: 32º 02’ 37.58” E

Days 9 – 10 A wildlife experience second to none

NTSHONDWE RESORT - ITHALA GAME RESERVE – A WILDLIFE EXPERIENCE SECOND TO NONE Ithala Game Reserve is the final destination. Two hours drive from Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park, in the rugged thornveld of northern KwaZulu-Natal, lies one of KwaZulu-Natal’s most charming game reserves. Situated in the rugged mountainous thornveld of northern KwaZulu-Natal, Ithala Game Reserve’s multitude of habitats host a spectacular array of wildlife species; its scenic beauty aside, Ithala’s most characteristic feature is perhaps its astonishing geological diversity. The area now proclaimed as Ithala has been occupied by man for thousands of years and there are many sites littered with Stone Age spear and axe heads dating back some 20,000 years. There has even been a middle Stone Age tool discovered by archaeologists which pushes the date back to anything up to 200,000 years. More recently, in the last few hundred years, with the advent of the Nguni people, iron smelting took place in Ithala and there are a number of smelting sites adjacent to deposits of banded ironstone, which was crushed to provide the iron ore. Ithala has provided the setting for many historic events, from Shaka’s reign and those of successive Zulu kings, to a number of gold mining enterprises in the early years of the 20th Century. Ithala has an excellent auto trail to facilitate visitor’s game viewing, and a notated guide booklet is available in the shop at

Ntshondwe, Ithala’s superbly designed, multi-award winning camp. Virtually invisible until the moment of your arrival, nestled on the slopes of the Ngotshe plateau, Ntshondwe is one of the most spectacularly situated resorts in Africa. The beautifully located resort provides a variety of self-catering accommodation; 67 thatched chalets blend into a lush setting of acacias, wild figs, cabbage trees and other indigenous flora. Ntshondwe offers twenty five 2-bed chalets with a bathroom, dining/lounge area, and a kitchen; twelve 4-bed chalets featuring 2 bedrooms, a bathroom, dining/lounge area, and a kitchen; and two sumptuous 6-bed chalets featuring three bedrooms, two bathrooms, dining/ lounge area and a kitchen. In addition, Ntshondwe also offers 28 non-self catered 2-bed chalets with ensuite facilities geared for tour groups and conference delegates. All accommodation is situated around the visitors’ centre, which has a fully licensed restaurant, a bar and an open game viewing deck, which proves a great temptation to guests. This magnificent reserve, tumbling from the heights of the Ngotshe Mountains a thousand metres down into a deep valley, carved over the eons by the Phongolo River revealing the world’s oldest rock formations, is a game viewer’s paradise. Ithala’s big game species include black and white rhino, elephant, buffalo, and giraffe. The absence of lion makes for a relaxed air among these animals and

other game such as aardwolf, zebra, blue wildebeest and a wide variety of antelope. Predators in the reserve include leopard, and brown and spotted hyena. A number of self-guided trails traverse the wooded mountainside above the resort, inviting guests to enjoy glimpses of wildlife while stretching their legs. There are also a number of auto trails that enable visitors to appreciate aspects of the reserve’s fascinating wildlife, the wide range of habitats and the diverse landscapes. FAST FACTS Ntshondwe Accommodation: Chalets from R735 per night (self-catering: max 4 people per chalet) Lodge: R3600 per night (self-catering: max 6 people) Non Self Catered Units: R675 per night (max 4 people per unit) Pricing: Unit Charge per night 1 x 6-bed luxury lodge – R3600 4 x 2-bed chalets (bachelor) - R735 21 x 2-bed chalets – R735 12 x 4-bed chalets – R1470 2 x 6-bed chalets – R1960 28 x 2-bed units (non-self catered) – R675 Activities:

• Self-guided

walking trails • Day and night drives • Self-guided

auto trails

• Picnic sites • Swimming • Guided walks

Distance: Approximately 193km from Hluhluwe GPS: Latitude: 27º 32’ 40.88” S Longitude: 31º 16’ 49.14” E

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THE RHINO WAR There has been a recent spate of rhino killings on the heels of a year which has seen a staggering number of rhinos slaughtered for their horns, highlighting a shocking trend which has been developing over the past few years. The poaching is not restricted to private game farms, or to protected areas. It is a wanton killing driven by greed taking place nationally. Ironically, it was the white rhino which, years ago, put the world renowned Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park on the map because of its successful conservation and now sadly the rhino is in the news again, but for less than joyous reasons.

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WORDS: Dr Bandile Mkhize PHOTOGRAPHS AND ILLUSTRATIONS:

Wildside

OACHING IS A WAY OF LIFE IN AFRICA. A statement that might raise many hackles, but nevertheless, a true one. I doubt there is a single protected area in Africa that has not had its game poached in one way or another. Traditionally, most poaching is what the authorities call “subsistence poaching”. In other words the poacher is taking game to feed himself and his family. In some communities it is viewed in much the same way as kids pinching their neighbour’s fruit. This does not mean to say that it is condoned. Indeed not, for a poacher who is caught must be prepared to face the consequences. Most thinking protected area managers, however, allow for the loss of a certain number of animals and build this into their game management plans.

ABRUPTLY, THE TREND CHANGED The picture changes completely, however, when it comes to the poaching of big game such as elephants or rhinos. There is nothing ‘subsistence’ about this activity as it is all about money and wastage. Statistics show that since 1990 rhino poaching has been sporadic – varying from one to six animals per year, dropping to nil in 2007. Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife also had a very high capture and conviction rate of rhino poachers. Then, abruptly, the trend changed: 14 rhinos in 2008, 28 in 2009 and at the time of writing, 19 in 2010. What is the cause of this sudden upsurge? Dating back to the sudden rise in the oil price the demand for rhino horn came from a desire by Yemeni men to have a rhino-horn inlaid dagger handle. This demand was fuelled by oil-dollars paid to Yemeni workers and it decimated the rhino stocks of our neighbouring states. This trade seems to have tailed off. There has also always been certain amount of horn going to the Far East where it has been

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A traditional Yemen proudly wears his jambia, a curved dagger, around his waist: Yemen history, based on the discovery of a statue of King Madi Karb by a 1950 American expedition, claims the dagger’s origin dates back to the era of the Biblical Kingdom of Sheba. The jambia reveals essential information about the wearer – showing status, social prestige and his origin. To indicate high social standing the jambia’s hilt would have to be made from rhino horn. Official statistics reveal that Yemen imported more than 25,000 kilos of rhino horn between 1969 and 1977. The Yemen government banned the trade of ivory in 1982 but allegedly it took 10 years to enforce.

used for centuries in traditional medicine. It is this particular market that has suddenly burgeoned and as far as can be determined is the result of a claim that rhino horn is the new miracle cure for cancer. The Far East, and China in particular, is home to several billion people and it is not fanciful to say that this demand for rhino horn is not going to go away of its own accord. It is also not fanciful to acknowledge that since the CITES ban on the trade in rhino products the world has lost 90% of its rhino.

RHINO WAR, A NATIONAL PROBLEM South Africa has acknowledged that the “rhino war” is a national problem and has convened a rhino security task group to develop ways of countering the threat to its rhino stocks. The national government has pledged to assist the various conservation agencies who have rhinos on their properties. This is certainly a welcome announcement because anyone who knows the Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park, or any one of the other protected areas that have rhinos and are managed by Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife, will see that trying to secure the boundaries of parks is a massive undertaking. Each park has its field ranger force, and some have a complementary and dedicated Anti-poaching Unit. It would be foolish indeed to reveal how each park structures its anti-poaching strategies

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but suffice it to say that within the limitations of available budget and man-power, Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife is doing what it can to stem the rise in rhino poaching in its areas.

SA POLICE FORCE WORKS WITH CONSERVATIONISTS A unique strategy has been the formation of the KZN Wildlife Crime Working Group, which comprises members of Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife, the National Prosecuting Authority and the SAPF. Members of this Working Group are effectively sensitised to the work of other member organisations and it is therefore possible to support each other’s efforts. The SAPF investigations into wildlife crime are allocated to specialised units and, working with Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife staff, are able to formulate appropriate charges. The prosecutors are able to formulate appropriate arguments and magistrates, being sensitised to the severity of such crimes and the threat they pose to society, are in a position to apply appropriate sentences. We also enjoy much valued support from our public who are critical supporters. At the time of writing there have been several arrests of suspected poaching gangs in Mpumalanga Province as well as in KZN. This has given conservation agencies some much-needed encouragement but there is no cause for complacency given the old saying about one swallow not making a summer.

254

Xi Jiao (Rhinoceros Horn): Science

has shown that the benefit of consuming rhino horn is equivalent to biting your finger nails yet the Chinese continue to advocate all sorts of unscientific claims about benefits of consuming rhino horn publicly feeding the tragic rhino poaching market. One of their ‘medical’ catalogues says rhino horn (Xi Jian) relieves pathogenic heat in the blood, stops bleeding and sedates convulsions.

122 The figure at time of printing of the number of rhinos killed nationally was 254: The figures

graphed for the number of rhinos poached over the last five years nationally reflects a worrying trend.

24 13

2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010

SALUTE TO THE RANGERS There is a great deal of work to do still and any resting on laurels will bring dire consequences. All conservation agencies must remain alert to the ongoing threat of rhino poaching while exploring new and innovative ways of combating the threat. We can all pay tribute, and indeed, owe a tremendous debt of gratitude, to those men and women in the frontline – the rangers – wherever they be. Theirs is the sharp end - the night operations, the stake-outs and roadblocks, the patrols, tracking and interception, and the occasional shoot-out. They are the ones who put their lives on the line so that the rhinos and other wildlife of Africa may continue to exist. Wherever you are – we salute you.

PRO TIPS

Albert Froneman PROFESSIONAL tips on

BIRD PHOTOGRAPHY

Albert Froneman is a professional bird photographer sponsored by Nikon South Africa. He is based in Johannesburg where together with Chris van Rooyen they run a successful photo safari company. Albert travels widely in Southern Africa to photograph birds and wildlife. His favourite camera and lens is the highly acclaimed Nikon D3s and the 500mm f/4G ED VR AF-S NIKKOR lens.

Photographing birds has, in recent years, become a favourite among many nature photographers. It requires a lot of patience, skill and then there is also quite a bit of luck involved. The one advantage is, however, that you can practise bird photography almost anywhere, starting in your own back yard to the remotest wild places you can think of. In order to ensure that you get the best results, it is important that you follow a few basic steps when it comes to using your equipment and making sure that it is set up correctly. This will make it much easier to capture that spectacular bird photograph. Below are a few pointers on how best to setup your camera and lenses.

Auto-focus: Fast, accurate auto focus is a must for bird photographers. For action it is recommended to use the centre auto-focus sensor. In addition, have some surrounding sensors enabled, thus ensuring that you have a larger area available to track a fast flying bird. Birds tend to always be on the move, thus set the autofocus mode to continuous â&#x20AC;&#x201C; this ensures that the camera adjusts focus all the time as bird jumps from branch to branch or as it is flying through the sky. Metering: It is advisable to always set your camera to matrix metering and, depending on the birds that you are photographing, dial in some exposure

compensation. For white birds as much as -1 stop of exposure compensation would be required, while for dark coloured birds it might be required to dial in +0.7 exposure compensation. Always remember to check for exposure accuracy using the histogram on the rear LCD screen of your camera. Drive Speed: Because birds are fast moving subjects, one should always be ready to capture as many images as possible in rapid succession; therefore set the drive speed on your camera to continuous high. For example, the D3s can shoot up to 11 frames per second. Vibration Reduction: Quite often

when shooting birds the need arises to shoot in low ambient lighting conditions such as forests and late in the afternoon or very early in the mornings. All the top end Nikkor lenses feature built-in Vibration Reduction (VR) technology. Always make sure that you have the VR enabled when you shoot at shutter speeds slower than a 1/500th of a second. Another key element in bird photography is that one must be prepared to spend time with your subject. Get to know their behaviour and you will be rewarded with images capturing interesting behaviour, some action or ideally some interaction between the birds.

What could you accomplish if you could redraw the boundaries of photography? Find out, with Nikon. www.nikon.co.za

WILDSIDE

AFRICA PHOTOGRAPHIC COMPETITION 2010/2011 Enter to stand a chance to win R20 000 worth of NIKON equipment and a three night stay for two valued at R12 870 at the prestigious Esiweni Lodge in Nambiti Private Game Reserve, KwaZulu-Natal.

Third quarter winner â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Photographer: Brendon Cremer. Title: Queen of darkness. Description: Lioness in the Sabi Sand Game Reserve, lying in the dark with spotlight from behind created a great rim lighting effect.

www.esiweni.co.za

TERMS: Any scene, any subject, as long as its taken on African soil or any of her exotic neighbouring islands. Open to South African citizens only. Terms and conditions apply.

To enter log on to: www.wildsidesa.co.za

At the heart of the Image

THE COMPETITION JUDGE

Third quarter, first runner up – Photographer: Reginald Scully. Title: BeePower. Description: Eos Canon 30D 100mm Macro, Drakensberg.

Freelance photographer and owner of Africa Imagery, a stock photo library, Roger de la Harpe has a passion for natural history, wild places and different cultures and his work on these subjects has featured in most notably BBC Wildlife and National Geographic. Roger reaches for the Nikon D3 x and 200 – 400mm lens for wildlife photography and the 14 – 24mm and 24 – 70mm lenses for scenic and travel images. What could you accomplish if you could redraw the boundaries of photography? Find out with Nikon. www.nikon.co.za

Third quarter, second runner up – Photographer: Simon Blackburn. Title: Boomslang dinner. Description: On a game drive one afternoon we investigated agitated weavers at a donga crossing and found a boomslang raiding the nest having eaten the chicks and still being mobbed by the parents. Eos 10D 300mm f4 Is.

The fourth and final quarter of the Wildside Nikon Africa Photographic competition is now open for entries. Go to – www.wildsidesa.co.za

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THE GREAT RETURN Rod MacLeod braved recent storms to explore the claims of Rocktail Beach Camp being a world class marine adventure playground.

THE ELEPHANT COAST An astonishingly beautiful strip of land stretching 200km long and 70km wide bound by mountain, ocean and bushveld, holds many of natureâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s miracles and secrets, providing you with an unspoilt ecotourism playground. Situated in the north-eastern part of KwaZulu-Natal, bound in the north west by the Ubombo Mountains, in the east by the warm Indian Ocean and in the south by the mighty Umfolozi River, the Elephant Coast boasts a range of diverse ecosystems. There are Big 5 game reserves, sprawling beaches and dense forests, coral reefs and grasslands. Home to more than half a million people including Zulu, Thonga and Swazi speaking people, there is also a rich cultural heritage in a region steeped in history.

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The Elephant Coast

ponta mamoli

coral reefs

MOZAMBIqUE

ndUMO GAME RESERVE

border caves oldest remains of homo sapiens in the world

coral reefs ponta do ouro

tEMBE ELEpHAnt pARK

kosi Bay

R22 Kosi

Bay

kozi bay forest lodge

dog point turtles breeding

pelindaba SILEZI nAtURE RESERVE

black rock

coastal cashews thonga pick up

MKUZE FALLS pRIVAtE GAME RESERVE

e river

Mkuze

ghost mountain inn

emantuma

Sodwana Bay

Vlei Lodge

False Bay Park hluhluwe river lodge

bonamanzi

hilltop camp P

bushlands game lodge

lake bhangazi

munyawaneni

bhangazi horse safaris

loz

wilderness trails mf

olo

makakatana bay lodge

Cape Vidal

St Lucia

whit

OpHAtE GAME RESERVE

world heirtage site

turtles breeding

mission rocks

mndindini

battle of ophate 1879

Charters Creek

uMfolozi Reserve nselweni mplila camp

sontuli

ULUndI

bhangazi bush lodge

Fanies Island muntulu

ISIMANGALISO WetLANd pARk

ma ri ne res erv e

ZULULAnd

black

hluhluwe hotel

Hluhluwe

Lucia

Rock Lodge Mountain Lodge

tHAndA GAME RESERVE

HLUHLUWE-IMFOLOZI GAME RESERVE Hluhluwe Reserve

turtles breeding

Walking Safaris Forest Lodge

pHIndA Zuka Lodge Getty Lodge

thanda lodge

nongoma

The four magnificent routes of the Elephant Coast unfold spectacular, pristine and unspoilt, marine and wildlife displays many of which are only to be found here, and simply nowhere else in the world. From being immersed in nature in the St Lucia to iMfolozi route with is diversity of nature based activities which include whale watching, to taking you into the heart of the African bush to see the Big 5, or view ancient fossils in False Bay, to Hluhluwe central route, experiences abound. With the highest bird count in South Africa, the Ndumo Reserve forms part of the third route, Mkuze to Ndumo along with mystery and history. The Kosi Bay to Sodwana route includes worldclass diving, beautiful beaches as well as game viewing.

jesser point

muzi pan adventures

banghoek lodge

ZULULAnd RHInO RESERVE

THE ELEPHANT COAST’S SPECTACULAR ROUTES

coral reefs nhlonhlela

R66

A remarkably rare sighting: A male loggerhead turtle (Caretta caretta), off the coast of Rocktail Beach Camp, iSimangaliso Wetlands Park, attempts to water-mount a sexually mature female. She does the swimming on their behalf and when approached dives down to resurface within 6 minutes.

gobey’s point

Mbazwana

uMKUZE GAME RESERVE

U z e fa l l S

battle of ulundi 1879

not recommended

mUzi PaN

Lake St

kUz

lak

Jozini

turtles breeding

ind ian ocea n

pHOnGOLO GAME RESERVE

R69

kzn wildlife’s ithala game reserve from durban: from the n2 north turn off to eshowe, connect to the r34 all the way through to vryheid, connect with the r69 and on to the reserve.

mabibi thonga beach lodge

hully point

MABASO COMMUnIty GAME RESERVE

esikhotheni lodge

amakhosi lodge

island rock rocktail beach camp

nkwazi lodge

white elephant safari lodge white elephant bush lodge

pakamisi

ItHALA GAME RESERVE

pHOnGOLO nAtURE RESERVE

lala nek

aYa

mar ine res erv e

mvubu lodge

phongola

S ib

wh al e m igr ati on rou te

ELEpHAnt COASt

ma rin e r es er ve

R22

SWAZILAnd

Mtubatuba

Maphelana

HE LASHING OF THE DAY’S RAIN FINALLY DRIBBLES TO A HALT. A moonless night settles on Maputaland’s coastal dune forest at Wilderness Adventures’ Rocktail Beach Camp, iSimangaliso Wetlands Park. Driving from the camp in search of turtles, the 25 000 year old dune forest is a hushed cathedral of trees. Wet and pitch-black, the forest is extraordinarily mute. This night not even the sharp shrill of the usually ubiquitous cicadas insects breaks the silence. Rocktail’s guests also seem to absorb the hushed atmosphere, including a five-month baby lying quietly in her mother’s arms. E

thula thula pgr

kwaMbonambi

Elephant Coast simple 2010.indd 1

As the vehicle mounts the dune track, hundreds of white pear and coastal milk wood trees, stand sentry. From the crest we get sight of valuable coastal real estate precious to turtles. This beach is the sanctuary to which hundreds of female turtles return. An annual pilgrimage to restart the cycle of life, and where many years ago, they had started the journey as little hatchlings. The beach is wild, dark and quiet. Even a blanket of evening stars hardly throws enough light to show the way. The only visible activity is the sideward dash of ghost crabs scurrying to escape the tyres. Nearly midnight, the passengers cold and tired, huddle behind the protection of their windbreaking ponchos, straining their eyes for the distinctive tracks marking the great annual return of egg-laden sea turtles to the shorelines of Maputaland.

Darkness – A Turtles Best Friend Darkness is the sea turtle’s best friend, and this night is perfect. Four years ago, 6 km down the beach from Rocktail Beach Camp, we had watched the struggle of a disorientated 650kg leatherback turtle trying to find her way back to the water’s edge. Having laid her eggs she insistently made her way inland towards the electrical lights of a distant community. It was only when the cloud

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2010/11/18 5:12 PM

cover parted over the sea and the moon’s reflection on the white foamy waves caught her eye that she found her way. The Rocktail Beach Camp cruiser comes to an abrupt stop. Gugulethu Mathenjwa, field guide for 23 years, whispers excitedly, “Tracks, loggerhead turtle.” Headlights off, he jumps out and disappears into the darkness. Two species of turtle, the loggerhead and the leatherback turtle, return each year to lay their eggs on the KwaZulu-Natal coastline. The heart-shape bony-shelled loggerhead reaches sexual maturity between 10 and 30 years, is about 70cm to 100cm in length and can weigh up to 150kgs. The leatherback, averaging more than twice the loggerhead’s length and three times its weight, has a boneless carapace made of leathery skin and makes nesting tracks double the width of the loggerhead. A while latter Gugulethu returns with instructions. “We will wait for about 45 minutes for her to settle down, then with all lights switched off we can approach her from behind. Please, no flash photography until she starts dropping her eggs.” We approach quietly. In front of us is a 20 year old, exhausted female loggerhead turtle. At some point in the past, her 15 000 km transoceanic journey had begun. By a mysterious ability of being able to use the earth’s magnetic field she has managed to map her way, with pinpoint accuracy, back to the same shoreline where she was born. With a distinct left-right rhythm her back flippers start to dig. Cupping a pile of sand into the flipper tip, up and out it comes, compacting the sand to prevent it from falling back into the hole. Just as the next flipper goes down, the compacting flipper, with a sudden force, scrapes the sand outwards away from the hole. For the next hour and never able to look back at the hole, both flippers work tirelessly: down, cup, up, compact, scrape. When one of the flippers cannot reach the bottom of the hole, Gugulethu whispers, “Okay, she’s ready to drop her eggs.” Plonk, plonk, plonk. A string of soft rubbery jumbo ping-pongball size eggs start to fill the hole. Clear gelatin like fluid spills out with eggs and within the hour, half of her clutch of over a 100 eggs has been laid. All the while Gugulethu is measuring, tagging and recording observations on his clipboard. This information would later to be woven into collective research that started in 1963, under the direction of Dr George Hughes. After two hours she would finally complete her clutch and life for a new generation of sea turtles begins. As we return to Rocktail Beach Camp’s comforts in the small hours of the morning, the mother, still with baby in arms comments, “Compared to that turtle I think I had it easy”. The miracle of sighting a turtle is just one of Rocktail’s many marine based activities. Associated with the camp is Mokarran Dive Charters, a fully equipped PADI dive centre, operated by Clive and Michelle Smith. Maputaland Sea Turtle Project: Started in 1963 by Dr George

Hughes, the project is recognised as the longest ongoing scientific study of turtles in the world. Gugulethu Mathenjwa, field guide at Rocktail Beach Camp, tags, measures, and counts, contributing to over 47 years of research. The project is funded by Wilderness Safaris Wildlife Trust, WWF, KZN Wildlife, and Rocktail Beach Camp. Opposite page: Clockwise: Snorkeling at 8m with 25m visibility, Rocktail’s pristine private beach as far as the eye can see, Hawksbill turtle © Anthony Grote, tented double-bed with en suite open indoor showers, Knobwood – one of the hundreds of tree species found in the coastal dune forest.

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Plonk, plonk, plonk. A string

of soft rubbery jumbo ping-pong-ball size eggs start to fill the holeâ&#x20AC;Ś

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Ocean Adventure Scuba diving at Rocktail is worldclass. Rocktail offers guests access to the 14 unspoilt reefs in this part of the marine reserve. While reefs are similar to Sodwana Bay 30kms away, dives from Rocktail differ in that they are private. Snorkeling is also a favourite activity amongst guests. With the surrounding marine life being so rich, there is always the chance of sighting manta and spotted eagle ray, whales sharks, dolphins, and humpback whales and of course, turtles. There is also always a chance to have amazing marine sightings on the Ocean Adventure Cruise. Even Clive Smith, a veteran skipper with over 14 years experience in these waters, was astounded by our fortunate sightings on our cruise. It was the first time he has ever seen two loggerhead turtles mating and the fourth time that he has seen the elusive humpback dolphin, and what a bonus – she had a calf. Tucked away in the shade of the coastal dune forest, 500 metres from

SAFARI

•

the beach, Rocktail Beach Camp has 17-tented rooms and 4 family units. Each unit is en suite with an open-feel indoor shower and front veranda. The guests’ communal area has a central dining room and lounge, raised viewing deck and swimming pool. Rocktail is also a winner with youngsters. When they want a change from the beach, there is still the children’s playroom or the coastal forest to explore. A willing field guide points out birds, bugs, beetles and the elusive red duiker to the young explorers. Rocktail offers its guests an enriching, intimate experience of a natural African environment. It’s the ethos the folks at Wilderness Adventures, the holding company, promote in all their 18 diverse locations in six other southern Africa countries. With egg laying and mating loggerhead turtles, rare humpback dolphins, world class snorkeling and scuba diving, 25 000 year old coastal dune forests and endless unspoilt beaches – Rocktail Beach Camp is a place that, like its turtles, you’ll keep returning to.

ADVENTURE

•

FUN

•

WILDSIDE Fact Tracker Rocktail Beach Camp How to get their: From the N2, go through the town of Hluhluwe and connect with the R22. Reach Mbazwana/ Sodwana Bay and continue for 30 kms turn right onto the gravel/sand road at the sign, “Coastal Forest Reserve – D1849”. Self drive – Rocktail is 28km away (GPS Rocktail Beach Camp: S27.26325, E032.76832) . Pick up – Park your car at Coastal Cashews (GPS: S 27 12.630 E 32 35.460). Rates: R1 400 pppn dbb valid from 16 December 2010 – 06 January 2012. Children between the ages of 6- 12 years sharing with adult: R350 per child per night, dinner, bed and breakfast only. Children 5 years and younger – FREE OF CHARGE. Wilderness Adventures: www.wilderness-adventures.com info@wilderness-adventures.com Reservation Tel: 011 257 5111 Wilderness Trust: Tel: 011 807 1800 www.wildernesstrust.com Dive Centre: Mokarran Dive Charters, Clive and Michelle Smith. Tel: 084 953 0487.

AUTHENTIC

•

FA M I LY F R I E N D LY

RoCkTAIL BEACH CAMp KwaZulu-Natal – iSimangaliso Wetland Park

L ive adventure. Love the wild Rocktail Beach Camp is situated in a sanctuary of the lush Maputaland Coastal Forest covering the ancient dunes that make up the edge of South Africa’s KwaZulu-Natal coast. With the Maputaland Marine Reserve just offshore and the beach a short walk from the camp, there are world-class diving and snorkelling, remote, unspoilt beaches and other beach adventures to be had.

Telephone: (011) 257 5111

•

Email: info@wilderness-adventures.com

•

www.wilderness-adventures.com

Bot s wa n a • m al awi • na m iBia • south a fric a • za mB ia • zimB a Bw E

The Elephant Coast Natal Tree Frog - Leptopelis natalensis

WELCOME TO MY WORLD Said the Frog

L E B O M B O M O U N TA I N S • K O S I B AY Words and photographs by Kirsty Kyle IN A SERENDIPITOUS MOMENT, WHILST AMBLING AROUND ON THE TOP OF THE LEBOMBO MOUNTAINS, IN NORTHERN KWAZULU-NATAL, I DISCOVERED WHAT HAD BEEN MISSING FROM MY LIFE FOR THE LAST SEVENTEEN YEARS – FROGS. At that moment I flipped a large rock on the edge of a puddle, and there were numerous bright green and brown spotty frogs with delightfully beady little eyes. Striking like a mamba, I missed the whole lot and then spent ten minutes weeding around in the grass; finally rooting out three. Flushed with pride I returned with my offering to the family. A grunt of acknowledgment, “They’re just cacos,” dismissed my treasures. Undaunted, I returned them, but my mind and heart had been captured. I was

4of4 2010 WILDSIDE

ing it up and looking at it. I recognized just what this funny little creature in my hand was. I’ve never come close to that feeling before or since. It was intoxicating and absolutely addictive. I’d encourage anyone to join me in this world of frogs. They are fascinating and delightful masters of survival that have been around for a very long time. Hurry up though, frogs the world over are rapidly disappearing and unless something drastic is done an interest in frogs will soon be futile. While you still can, introduce yourself to these fantastic creatures.

now a sojourner in the wonderful world of frogs. To me they are without doubt the most delightful creatures on God’s green earth. Frogging is not for the faint-hearted. It requires voyages into the dark and scary world of swamps and vleis in the middle of the night armed with naught but a light and bottle. Living in a perfect habitat at Kosi Bay and having a family that can be cajoled into joining crazy expeditions is helpful for any budding frogologist. On summer evenings the calls from our surrounds are irresistible. If I badger enough I can usually get someone to accompany me on scatter-brained endeavours to capture the creators of random echoes from the wilds. The possibility of snakes and even crocs makes it all the more alluring, but it is mildly terrifying as there are plenty of hippos in the lake and we use their paths. There are vleis nearby that can come alive with frogs and heavy rains bring out a rash of frogs. It seems the difficulty of capture is directly proportional to the quality of the frog. I was desperate to get hold of a red-banded rubber frog and could hear their distinctive “PIIIIRRRR” from home. After much begging I got together a hunting party and we set off to capture one. We drove as close as possible, but were still a distance from the vlei. By the time I arrived the boys’ headlights were miles away bobbing around like drunken fireflies, so I set off on my own tangent to try and intercept the frog that had the audacity to still be yelling blue murder. After floundering around for a while I noticed

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my surroundings were delightful as I was in the midst of a chorus of painted reed frogs – heaven. I was brought back to earth by a rubber frog that trilled near-by. Suddenly I saw my brother’s eyes zeroing in on it and decided to try to get there first but unfortunately this was not to be. While he oozed gracefully over the sludge like a jacana, I sank like a brick into the black sludge and stuck. After much frantic effort I managed to puff and wheeze my way out, covered in black stinking sludge up to my eyeballs. Brother and father looked on from dry land alternately laughing and rolling their eyes. The daft, colourful frog was in my brother’s hand. But I at least had my best moment to recall. The best moment in my whole life was when I found a spotted burrowing frog. I flipped over an unpromising looking rock in the middle of inundated grasslands expecting at best a caco. My dim eyes focused on a tiny brown blotch and I dropped onto it like a shot, pick-

Top: Argus Reed Frog - Hyperolius argus. Below: Red-Legged Kassina - Kassina Maculata. Bottom: Spotted Burrowing

Frog - Hemisus guttatus.

During the wet season the coastal plains of Maputaland become inundated with frogs and numerous temporary pans can be found throughout the region. Anyone can access these and the results can be very rewarding. Accommodation can be found in Kosi Bay Nature Reserve, Tembe Elephant Park, Ndumo or any of the private lodges in the region. The rare and endemic Pickersgill’s Reed Frog occurs here along with at least thirty-four other species of amphibians – this number is probably greater than that of the whole of Europe combined.

Elephant Coast

AMAZULU LODGE ST LUCIA

Amazulu Lodge is a 4 star lodge situated in the town of St Lucia. The whole complex is completely under thatch and exhales a true African ambiance. All rooms have luxurious en-suite

bathrooms and are equipped with aircon, DSTV and coffee/ tea facilities and provide a good base to explore the region. Tel: 035 590 1026 Cell: 086 531 7533 www.amazululodge.com

Favourites

DLINZA FOREST AERIAL BOARDWALK ESHOWE

BHEJANE – Become a Field Guide

Well worth travelling the 28kms off the N2 is the Dlinza Forest Aerial Boardwalk, a 10m high walkway through the canopy of a magnificent indigenous forest, ending in a spectacular 20m high viewing tower. Visitors are captivated by the strikingly beautiful rare spotted ground thrush, seen mostly scratching in the undergrowth for earthworms, or feeding its young in the low dracaenas.

Choose your career based on the lifestyle you want. Are you passionate about wildlife and nature? Why not get paid to indulge and share your passion with others. A career in guiding can offer you this. Join us in the most spectacular reserves of Southern Africa for once in a lifetime career training, or a gap year programme. All courses are endorsed by the Field Guides Association of Southern Africa (FGASA). You can choose between training as a Field Guide or a Marine Guide, or both when you enrol for our 6 month Professional Field Guide Programme.

Tel: 035 474 4029 www.zbr.co.za/boardwalk

035 562 0034 www.bhejanenaturetraining.com

ELEPHANT COAST

PROTEA HOTEL HLUHLUWE & SAFARIS HLUHLUWE

Protea Hotel Hluhluwe & Safaris is running a ‘KIDS are Cool’ programme which is aimed at the holistic development of children in a fun and informative manner. It consists of physical activities like cricket, pool volley ball and basket ball. The programme involves children on a cognitive level through interactive gaming and challenges such as the Hluhluwe Amazing Race and various art activities. Children will be encouraged to try out their culinary skills in the morning sessions of cupcake or pizza making. The overall objective is to provide a holistic program which focuses on entertaining children during their stay at the Protea Hotel Hluhluwe & Safaris thereby giving mom and dad a chance to relax. Tel: 035 562 4000 Protea Hotel Hluhluwe and Safaris 28° 01’ 02” S, 32° 16’ 00” E.

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The Elephant Coast

BUSH BEACH LODGE There are only a few places in the world where you can hear the grunt and grumble of hippo while dusting the salty sea sand from your feet after a day at the beach. The unique Bhangazi Bush Lodge in the iSimangaliso Wetland Park on the KwaZulu-Natal North Coast is one such place.

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’VE HEARD THAT HIPPO SURF IN THE SEA IN

GABON ON THE WEST AFRICAN COAST AND ONE DAY I’M GOING THERE TO SEE FOR MYSELF.

Bhangazi is also one of those places you need to go to – to see for yourself. The hippo don’t surf in the sea, but their home, Lake Bhangazi, is only 10 – 15 minutes from Cape Vidal beach.

The Bhangazi Bush Lodge, which overlooks the lake, is tucked into coastal dune forest and there’s nothing and no-one around you for miles. The lodge is comprised of four thatched two-bed chalets flanked around a central lodge with a kitchen and dining area. There’s also a second lounge that is nestled below the lodge with a wide deck which looks onto the lake where those hippo live. Here you can enjoy sundowners while listening to an African symphony created by the hippo and fish eagles after a day at the beach. The bush lodge only caters for one party at a time meaning an exclusive haven for your group – notwithstanding that the sense of exclusivity begins long before you reach your lodge as you travel through the game reserve of the wetland park firstly, passing rhino, hippo and buck, before slipping off down a private road which brings you to the front door of your lodge. It’s self-catering at its best because although you take all your own supplies, there is a chef on hand to prepare all meals. The nearby Cape Vidal beach is well known for its good fishing including deep-sea and offshore angling. It also offers relatively safe swimming and good snorkelling with its shallow pools and rock ledges while miles of beach hemmed in by large dunes are ideal for long walks. You really do have the best of both worlds here, with access to the eastern shores of Lake St Lucia where there is a variety of game including elephant, buffalo, leopard, rhino, reedbuck, other antelope, hippos, and crocodile, as well as water, forest and grassland birds – and of course the Indian Ocean shoreline with its marine animals. The marine habitat is the route used by humpback whales on their northerly migration to Mozambique to calve while in December the loggerheads and leatherback turtles come onto the beach to lay eggs. The turtle hatchlings will return, decades later, to the very same place as their birth to lay their eggs, and their young will return to lay their eggs… a perfect cycle of life. iSimangaliso means miracle and place of wonder which is an apt name for this wetland park where you will leave with memories to last a lifetime. WILDSIDE Fact Tracker Bhangazi Bush Lodge Accommodation: Bhangazi Bush Lodge sleeps 8 in four units and can only be hired by one party. There is a camp with log cabins situated behind the dunes, as well as 50 campsites in the dune forest near the beach but only one bush lodge, namely Bhangazi. Cost: Bhangazi Bush Lodge costs R3 500 per night for the lodge which averages out at R437.50 which is fair value.

The rustic log cabins on the beach behind the dunes cost from R930 per night for a five bed cabin but this is not in any way exclusive or comparable to the lodge. Here there are 18 five-bedded and 11 eight-bedded equipped log cabins. For fishing parties, five multi-bed cabins (sleeping 8 - 20) may be hired. Travellers Tip: The water at the lodge is not drinkable, so take your own. To book: Contact KZN Wildlife on Tel: 033 845 1999 or visit www.kznwildlife.com

Left page: Clockwise – waterbuck welcome you upon arrival at the

lodge. Outside braai area ensconced in coastal dune forest. The sunken lounge and deck looks out onto Lake Bhangazi with hippos. The expansive Cape Vidal beach. This page: From top – rooms are linked by wooden walkways, the beach

at Cape Vidal offers good shore angling, paddle skiing and snorkelling. The comfortable chalets at the lodge all have en-suite bathrooms and an outside shower.

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hejane Nature Training offers an exciting and comprehensive 6 month Professional Field Guide Course. Training includes: FGASA Level 1 FGASA Back-Trails Guide Training Wilderness First Aid FGASA Marine Guide Level 1 SASSETA Rifle Handling FGASA Rifle Handling PADI Open Water Diver FGASA Level 2 Theory (Training only) (With alternative options for qualified divers) We are based in Northern Kwa-Zulu Natal from where we explore the many unique habitats that Zululand and the Elephant Coast has to offer. Nature Guide Training has never been this exciting, this diverse, and filled with so much opportunity! Join us for one of a kind career training. Visit www.bhejanenaturetraining.com for more information or contact us at info@bhejanenaturetraining.com Office tel: 035 562 0034 / Christa 083 726 3826

Change your life, Change our world, Become a part of the

Bi r d in g

R ou

Zul u

Zululand Conservation Legacy . . .

Experience . . . Tel: (035) 474 4029

www.zbr.co.za/boardwalk email: boardwalk@birdlife.org.za

South Africaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s first aerial walkway in the indigenous forest canopy amongst birds, butterflies & forest animals, and enjoy a 20m high observation tower.

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Composite

The Malolotja Canopy Tour • Swaziland Enjoy a once in a lifetime experience at the Malolotja Canopy Tour, Swaziland’s first official Canopy Tour. Take a unique trip through the forest canopy while experiencing a rich diversity of fauna and flora along the way. The protected Malolotja Nature Reserve contains a wide variety of mammals and birdlife including rare species such as the Forest Canary and Ground Woodpecker. The tour includes a long drive in an open game vehicle to the start of the canopy tour, where sightings

of blesbok, reedbuck and the chacma baboon are common. However, it just might be the world renowned display of wildflowers that you remember the most.

Once you arrive at the platform we encourage you to stop for a while and enjoy the view while your guide points out interesting features and facts about the surrounding ecology.

The Malolotja Canopy Tour consists of eleven elevated forest platforms, ten slides and a 50metre long suspension bridge that crosses the Majolomba River. It’s an experience not to be missed.

The tour lasts typically two and a half hours after which you will return to the reception to swop stories and enjoy some welldeserved refreshments. Don’t forget to bring you camera as there are some great photo opportunities along the way.

From the moment you launch of the first platform, a new world unfolds as you slide across to the next view point.

and corporate teambuilding events. All groups are escorted by a lead guide and safety guide at all times to ensure your safety.

The canopy tour is the ideal outdoor getaway for nature lovers, families, student groups

Discover yourself in Swaziland It’s a royal experience

✤ Explore the natural beauty of Swaziland and discover the wealth of our attractions ✤ Participate in our Cultural heritage at the reed dance and other Royal ceremonies ✤ Wonder at the world oldest mine and rock art ✤ Luxuriate in comfortable B&Bs and top hotels ✤ Shop for unique crafts and see them made ✤ Visit our villages and meet the locals ✤ Face up to our rhinos at Mkhaya ✤ Hike our hills and valleys ✤ 4X4 our mountains For your copy of the Swaziland Discovery Tel: (09268) 40 42531 Swazi plaza office, Tel: (09268) 44 24206 Ngwenya Office Email: information@tourismauthority.org.sz or write to P.O. Box A1030 Swazi Plaza Mbabane www.welcometoswaziland.co.za TU4490

Wildsideâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Top Spots W

ILDSIDE MAKES AN ANNUAL SELECTION

OF TOP SPOTS FOR THIS FEATURE. Each establishment has been visited by Wildside and recommended for offering something special. The places are all different and have been selected for varying reasons. Some offer adventure, others tranquillity, some a romantic weekend, others cater for families, or for those seeking relaxation.

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MKUZE

Ghost Mountain Inn At the foot of the legendary Ghost Mountain in Mkuze, northern KwaZulu-Natal lies the privately owned 4 star Ghost Mountain Inn. This intimate and beautiful hotel is the ideal location from which to explore the array of wildlife and coastal reserves in Maputaland and the Elephant Coast. Nature enthusiasts will appreciate the abundance of wildlife and the scenic splendours of this rich and diverse region during game drives, guided walks and boat cruises in the company of knowledgeable rangers. Tiger fishing is arranged on Lake Jozini while birders can enjoy one of southern Africaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s top birding destinations with over 450 species. Alternatively escape and be pampered at the Ghost Mountain Spa. Enjoy an africology exfoliation and body wrap with natural South African products or a Dermalogica facial treatment. The Spa features a steam room and relaxation area with private plunge pool to rest in between

treatments. Those who prefer the relaxing sound of bird song and the warmth of the African sun will find their respite at the pool side within the glorious gardens of Ghost Mountain Inn. For those travelling to southern Mozambique, or between Kruger Park, Swaziland and Durban, Ghost Mountain Inn makes an excellent stopover or memorable getaway. Ghost Mountain have put together excellent two and three day holiday packages, including a complimentary dinner, a boat cruise on Lake Jozini, a game drive in Mkuze with a picnic lunch and a 30 minute back and neck massage in their beautiful spa. from R595 pppns 035 573 1025 www.ghostmountaininn.co.za

HLUHLUWE

Hluhluwe River Lodge Nestled in a forest of pallid sand veldt on the western shore of Lake St Lucia is a secluded lodge perched on a promontory overlooking the Hluhluwe River floodplain and the far northern reaches of Lake St Lucia. The view from the main lodge terrace is breathtaking and the relaxed mood of the lodge is reflected by its simple and eclectic decor and open plan design. The lodgeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s charismatic manager Thami Nsele heads up a team of friendly field guides and fantastic chefs. Dinners are served outside on the terrace - look out for the kudu fillet with gooseberry sauce and morrocan lamb shank. Sleeping up to 28 guests in 12 thatched chalets spread about the shady forest ensures that the intimacy of the lodge is retained. A secluded swimming pool is set away from the main lodge. The region is synonymous with its magnificent sand forests at False Bay Park. Summer is a special time for this botanically diverse area that attracts prolific birdlife and a record number

of butterflies (111 species) that are constant companions when out exploring one of the many sand forest trails. Hluhluwe River Lodge offers a unique horse trail which explores the forest and the lakeshore. The Western Shore is a fantastic place to see marine fossils including giant ammonites; these prehistoric squid like creatures roamed the estuary at the time of the dinosaurs and have been immaculately preserved in the mineral rich sediments. Recent drought has exposed an ancient graveyard and will be temporarily visible until the next major floods. Guided walks to these fossil beds are available. Other activities include open vehicle game drives to Hluhluwe iMfolozi Game Reserve and canoe and birding trips by boat on the Hluhluwe river, guided and self guided mountain bike trips. from R1815 pppns inc. dbb 035 5620246/7 www.hluhluwe.co.za info@hluhluwe.co.za

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ISIMANGALISO WETLAND PARK

Thonga Beach Lodge Thonga Beach Lodge is a luxurious 24 bed lodge, nestled within the iSimangaliso World Heritage Park on the pristine coast of Maputaland, KwaZulu-Natal, a magical place with pristine beaches, coastal forests and shimmering lakes. Thonga Beach Lodge captures the essence of a luxury Robinson Crusoe hideaway as each air conditioned suite has been carefully constructed to ensure minimal impact on the environment, with maximum comfort. Amidst the excitement and adventure of Thonga there is time to enjoy mouth-watering cuisine, reminisce at romantic candlelight dinners and relax with sea spa treatments. Mabibi offers superb snorkelling within sauntering distance from the lodge in clear warm waters of the Indian Ocean. With about 1,250 fish species, scuba diving at Thonga is phenomenal. The dive boat launches directly from Thonga’s beach and the instructors accommodate divers of all levels.

The Open Ocean Boat trip provides an opportunity to see marine life such as shoals of game fish, sharks and schools of bottlenose dolphins as well as whale sharks and turtles in the summer and hump back whales in winter for those who prefer to stay above the surface. Morning guided kayaking trips or glorious evening sundowners are just two of the amazing activities that you can enjoy during your stay on Lake Sibaya, Southern Africa’s largest fresh water lake. From November to February, witness the magnificent sight of turtles struggling up the beach to lay their eggs or the vulnerable and beautiful hatchlings making their desperate journey to the ocean. During the turtle season nightly walks are taken after dinner or join the turtle drive to find these creatures. from R2475 pppns All meals, teas & coffees, use of snorkeling equipment, guided walk, kayaking trip on Lake Sibaya, sundowners at Lake Sibaya, cultural Tours

I S I B I N D I

ISIMANGALISO WETLAND PARK

Kosi Forest Lodge Kosi Forest Lodge, a private haven in the Kosi Bay Nature Reserve, which is part of the iSimangaliso Wetland Park and set in the beautiful sand forest on the banks of the Kosi Lakes. The 8 thatched bush suites are comfortable and carefully positioned to provide guests with privacy and intimacy within the forest surroundings. The romantic en-suite bathrooms are open-air, giving guests a truly unique experience. Kosi’s fine cuisine and relaxing atmosphere caters for a perfect family holiday with a host of estuarine, beach and wilderness activities. Be awakened by the abundant bird life that ensure Kosi is a recognized birder’s paradise. The highlight of many guests stay at Kosi Forest Lodge is the guided canoe trip on the Kosi Lakes. Admire the magnificent raffia palms whilst paddling the slow moving currents on the channels between the lakes. The best way to see the 18km long Kosi Lake system is by

A F R I C A

boat through various sized lakes and channels, followed by a picnic lunch and a swim in the sea at Bhanga Nek. An hour’s drive away is the beautiful Kosi Bay mouth where the sea and lakes interconnect in a wonderful swirl of colour, sand and water. There’s great snorkelling and the water is warm and often crystal clear. From 15 November to 15 January marvel as giant loggerhead and leatherback turtles struggle up the beach to lay their eggs on evening excursions to the beach – returning to the lodge late at night after witnessing this amazing natural wonder. from R1780 pppns All meals, teas & coffees, guided canoeing on lakes and walk in Raffia Forest, for 2 night stay - boat tour on Kosi Lake with swimming at Bhanga Nek & picnic lunch

ZULULAND

Isibindi Zulu Lodge Isibindi Zulu Lodge is a peaceful 12 bed bushveld retreat with accommodation designed in an architectural celebration of the Zulu nation. It offers a host of activities for those wanting to experience a combination of game viewing, battlefields and the Zulu culture. Situated within the Isibindi Eco-Reserve, which is home to abundant indigenous game, morning and evening game drives or walks are offered, as well as day picnics are a perfect way to immerse yourself in nature’s beauty. The Lodge is a stone’s throw away from the historically momentous Anglo-Zulu battlefields of Isandlwana where the Zulu and British clashed in a devastating battle. The battlefield tour starts at Isandlwana, where the greatest defeat in British colonial history took place. The events of Rorke’s Drift are also explained during the day trip, as well as a short tour of the museum.

casting the hills in soft golden light. Guests are led down a narrow path to the beat of drums. Emerging into a clearing guests come across a Zulu umuzi (village) where the dancing bodies of Zulus make for a profound experience. The traditional dances and their role in Zulu history and culture are explained amid the energetic displays. Panoramic day trips can take you to nearby waterfalls, rock art paintings and local Zulu villages where you can meet the sangoma and be encouraged to ‘throw the bones’, which is an ancient Zulu art of fortune telling and rain wishing. from R1450 pppns All meals, teas & coffees, one daily game activity, for 2 night stay – Zulu Boma dinner

A Zulu boma dinner begins just as the sun starts setting,

I S I B I N D I

KRUGER PARK

Rhino Walking Safaris Rhino Walking Safaris specialises in luxury walking safaris in 12,000 hectares of pristine bushveld in the only wilderness concession in the Kruger National Park. The concession shares a 15km unfenced boundary with the famous Mala Mala and Sabi Sands reserves, with an abundance of wildlife moving freely between the two reserves. Follow animal trails on foot through this environmentally sensitive area that offers the Big Five as well as a diversity of fauna and flora. With a minimum of two nights, the trails provide a unique walking adventure where your highly qualified guide will lead you through a fascinating range of encounters and experiences. Plains Camp has four African explorer-style tents overlooking the spectacular Timbitene Plain. This 8-bed camp is built in authentic pioneer tradition and reflects the ambience of a 19th century naturalist’s retreat. The camp is in the middle of the wilderness concession, where it seems the rest of the

A F R I C A

world no longer exists, and guests are ensured of superb game sightings from their room or on foot. Sleep Outs (pre-booking necessary) are on elevated 4m high wooden platforms and the only place in the Kruger National Park offering this unusual accommodation. Sleeping under the stars where the rumble of the elephant passing by or the roar of the lion at the nearby waterhole, are the only noises that might disturb you in this peaceful wilderness. from R2990 pppns Rhino Walking Safari – R2990 per person for min of two nights All meals, teas and coffees, safari activities – house wines, local beers and soft drinks

Isibindi Africa Tel: 035 474 1473 Email: res@isibindi.co.za www.isibindi.co.za

ZULULAND

Thula Thula Only 2 hours north of Durban, Thula Thula, the oldest private game reserve in Zululand, now 4 500 ha, is a wildlife sanctuary and home to big game and superb birdlife. Thula Thula offers the choice of exclusive accommodation between the stylish elephant Safari Lodge, renowned gourmet destination, and the Luxury Tented Camp, offering an authentic African bush experience. Experienced rangers will guide you on exciting safaris in open Land Rovers through the unique diversity of this ancestral land to encounter big game as buffalo, elephant, leopard and rhino, giraffe, hyena, crocodile, and a spectacular variety of other indigenous species. Thula Thula also welcomes abandoned or injured animals rescued by rehabilitation centres such as Moholoholo in Limpopo and CROW (Centre for Rehabilitation of Wildlife), which are successfully reintroduced into the game reserve. The Conference Centre, fully air

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conditioned and its elegantly decorated breakaway room with bar, lounge and TV can welcome up to 32 delegates. Extra activities include therapeutic massages, champagne picnic in the bush, French cuisine cooking classes, Yoga classes, mountain biking, a visit to the local Zulu village and an encounter with the Inyanga, trips to iMfoloziHluhluwe Game Reserve, Shakaland or a cruise on the St Lucia Estuary. Day visitors are welcome for game drive and lunch. New: Gourmet Safari French cuisine cooking classes at the lodge and Yoga Bush retreat weekends at the tented camp. Each programme includes aromatherapy massage, a game drive and bush walk. Enquire about special packages, and special rates for senior citizens and last minute bookings. from R1 500 pppns 035 792 8322 / 0822599732 www.thulathula.com

PONGOLA

Pakamisa Discover the taste of paradise at Pakamisa Private Game Reserve, a perfect hideaway. If you are looking for something a little less formal but nonetheless exclusive, then this lodge is for you. Views are inescapable from almost anywhere on the property, not least from your private veranda. The eight suites are huge, lightly Mediterranean in style, with elegant furniture and superb bathrooms. There is so much to do here, archery, clay-target shooting, bush walking, game drives, and horse riding – of course. At Pakamisa, the superior gameviewing vehicle is a horse. And these divine creatures, trained by the owner Isabella herself, are bred to be more than merely mode of transport. Exciting game viewing is offered on horseback for all riding abilities. To work off the calories, bush walks and mountain bike trails await. For the more laid-back options, be gobbled up by the beautiful library or enjoy the impressive

collection of rare African artefacts and paintings in the enormous entrance hall. Otherwise pull up a basket chair, drink in hand, and lap up the lovely big pool and sprawling views beyond. Meals are an occasion; enjoy mouth-watering breakfasts to delicious alfresco lunches on the panoramic veranda of the award-winning El Prado restaurant. Contemporary and international cuisine is beautifully presented, enhancing a traditional dining experience in the elegant dining room or “Out of Africa” style under the stars. The restaurant has an exceptional wine list and offers game specialities. from R1980 pppns 034 413 3559 www.pakamisa.co.za pakamisa@pakamisa.co.za

SOUTHERN MIDLANDS

Gwahumbe Game & Spa You will find a perfect sanctuary at Gwahumbe Game and Spa which is barely an hour outside Durban situated in the southern midlands of KwaZulu-Natal but offers the magic and tranquillity of a true African getaway â&#x20AC;&#x201C; with the added bonus of an exotic wellness spa. Guests are welcomed to a paradise with majestic cliff faces and lush riverine vegetation that is home to hippos, giraffes, rhinos and a wide variety of antelope as well as a plethora of birds including the martial eagle and endangered ground hornbill. The more adventurous can look forward to hiking or mountain biking along the dramatic Gwahumbe Gorge or tackling challenging 4 x 4 trials. Those looking to simply relax and drink in the scenic beauty can indulge in anything from a cool dip at the waterfall to sundowners on a wooden deck high above the hippo pool. With its perfectly peaceful ambience and personalized service, Gwahumbe caters

for anything from romantic escapes and family getaways to special interest parties, weddings, corporate conferences and team building functions. There is a wide variety of catered and self-catered accommodation ranging from ultimate luxury to comfortable lodges to the rustic Mzigi Bush Camp. Facilities include a conference centre, swimming pool, bar and boma where fine cuisine is the order of the day in this AA Superior accredited reserve. At the Gwahumbe Spa Wellness Centre guests can either spoil themselves with individual treatments or enjoy some of the day or night packages that are available. Qualified therapists provide beauty and touch therapy treatments. from R755 pppns dbb 031 781 1082 www.gwahumbe.co.za info@gwahumbe.co.za

LADYSMITH

Nambiti Plains Nambiti Plains Lodge is situated 30km north of Ladysmith within the conservancy called Nambiti Private Game Reserve.

Guests can look forward to game drives in open 4 x 4 vehicles led by experienced and professional rangers.

Offering five-star luxury accommodation for the executive adventurer, nestled within the beauty of a landscape found only in Africa. All five suites are secluded, with wrap-around decks, baths and showers facing out on to thornveld, acacia trees and sky. Designed with detail to impress and surpass the expectations of even the most discerning guest.

Apart from the Big 5, there are 30 other species on the reserve, including cheetah.

The main lodge is imaginatively woven amongst the indigenous forest, perched on the water hole edge, a fine line between luxury and the reality of African wild.

The Sundays River runs through the conservancy and boats two 40 meter waterfalls which are home to some rare birdlife. Game drives often stop at the river for a picnic or sundowner. from R2200 pppns 071 680 4584 www.nambitiplains.com info@nambitiplains.com

A pool near the bar and dining area provides relief from the heat â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and a drink for passing elephants. Relax with a cocktail on the deck or take a dip in the pool while watching the animals quietly drinking from the water hole.

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NORTHERN DRAKENSBERG

The Cavern Resort & Spa The Cavern Resort & Spa has been introducing overseas and South African visitors to the joys of mountain holidays for many years. The Cavern, named after the “Cannibal Cavern”, is situated on 3000 hectares of private mountain reserve adjacent to the Amphitheatre World Heritage Site. This stunning resort has won numerous accolades over the years. Honeymoon suites, superior suites and standard accommodation are available with spectacular views of the surrounding valleys, indigenous forests and mountains. Honeymoon suites are complete with fourposter beds and fireplaces for cool evenings. The superior accommodation is set away from the resort, in tranquil gardens, with magnificent views of the surrounding mountains. The Forest Spa, set high up in the indigenous forest, is a relaxing space to unwind in whilst being treated by our therapists. Afterwards the

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unique Cave Bar is the ideal place to meet for a sundowner while looking over the valley below. The Cavern is home to numerous Bushman paintings, over 200 species of birds, 150 species of trees and wildlife including leopard and eland. The resort offers daily guided hikes to bushman paintings and rock carvings. For the more energetic, walks are organised to the Tugela Gorge and to the top of the Amphitheatre. An extensive range of recreational facilities, from guided walks, horse rides and trout fishing are available on the reserve while mountain bike trails are at the nearby adventure centre. Just over three hours from Gauteng and Durban it is the ideal area to spend some time in the mountains. from R590.00 pppn dbb 036 438 6270 www.cavern.co.za

CENTRAL DRAKENSBERG

Cathedral Peak Unusual requests are the staple diet of conference dinner-conversation. The banqueting department at Cathedral Peak Hotel has dealt with it all, from breakfast tequila and sambukas to dinner gluewein recipes specifying Oros. Staff have dressed up as company mascots, beamed a rugby match into a wedding reception, and pulled the truck out of the pool. As an award-winning family hotel Cathedral Peak Hotel prides itself on service excellence as much as unrivalled access to the Drakensberg Mountain World Heritage Site. Five fullyequipped modern conference rooms boast projectors, pointers, lecterns, air-con and state-of-the-art PA system. The hotel is a mere 250km from Durban and 400km from Johannesburg. A range of accommodation is provided from family thatch rooms to seven executive honeymoon suites and the luxurious Mponjwane Presidential Suite.

Delegates (and accompanying families) can enjoy treatments in the Vitality Centre, sauna, gym, floodlit mini-adventure golf and a 10m climbing wall, tennis, squash, badminton, bowls, trout-fishing, archery, a marked jogging route, mountain bike trails, guided quad bike rides, and free daily guided walks (including to Bushman paintings). The challenging 9 hole golf course with alternate tees for a 18 hole game has a fully equipped clubhouse with panoramic views. Exhilarating helicopter flights are available. Families are adequately catered for with a custom children’s dining room, playground with trampoline, and babysitters. Heated outdoor pools and day-time and evening activity programmes are available during school holidays and peak periods. from: R1050 pppns 036 488 1888 Fax: 036 488 1889 confwed@cathedralpeak.co.za www.cathedralpeak.co.za

SOUTHERN DRAKENSBERG

Penwarn Penwarn Country Lodge is nestled under the magnificent Southern Drakensberg, just 20km outside Underberg. Penwarn Estate adjoins Waterford Farm and the two properties border the uKhahlamba World Heritage site. Penwarn guests get to experience the luxurious relaxation of Penwarn, but also the bustling world of Waterford’s commercial dairy farm and the “Gentle Giant” horse stud. Self-catering and hotel accommodation are both available at Penwarn. There is a variety of self catering options – from the rustic log cabin overlooking the panorama of the berg; to the sumptuous Mtini lodge which overlooks the Penwarn wetlands. Ndabusche lodge is available as hotel accommodation. The unique decor of each room creates an intensely personal and homely feel. The rooms and bathrooms are all spacious and allow for relaxing romantic getaways or fun-filled family holidays.

The ethos of Penwarn and Waterford is one of conservation and environmental awareness and the guests are encouraged to renew and revive their souls by enjoying the breathtaking countryside that surrounds them. Walking or horse riding through the herds of eland, zebra, springbok and other game species; bass and trout fishing; bird watching; or simply picnicking on the estate are some of the many activities on offer. The quaint country pub with log fires and a big screen TV is open for those un-missable sports events. The restaurant offers meals that are always an extravaganza of variety and colour reminding one of the old fashioned Sunday lunches shared with family and friends. from R800 pppns DBB and self catering from R250 pppns. 033-7011368 www.penwarn.com info@penwarn.com

SOUTHERN DRAKENSBERG

Lake Naverone In a valley amongst the foothills of the southern Drakensberg occurs a secluded lake, named Lake Naverone, an idyllic natural retreat lying amidst a World Heritage site and far from the distractions and demands of modern life. There are 21 picturesque cottages, some situated on the lakeside and others nestling in tranquil shaded glens – some of stone and thatch, and all have fireplaces. Well equipped and fully serviced, this self-catering accommodation varies in size from two to twelve sleepers, suiting all ages, tastes and needs. Some are wheelchair friendly. There is a choice of open waters for those wishing to fly fish – the 23 hectare lake or the smaller four hectare dam, each yielding rainbow trout to both beginner and experienced fisher folk. In addition there is seven kms of Umzimkulu River tributary within the estate for those preferring seasonal river fishing. There is much for you to do including horse riding, pony riding, and fishing. There

is an all weather tennis court, a children’s playground; mountain bicycles for hire and golf and trout rod equipment. There are several restaurants within four kms. Night time heralds brilliant skies for star gazers with a chorus of owls calling amongst the trees while reedbuck announce their presence with their snorting whistle. A private and well maintained runway with a lockable hangar is available, and all main roads to Lake Naverone are tarred. There is an on-line booking programme through the website

from R330.00 pppd, children 4 – 12yrs half price 033 7011236 www.lakenaverone.co.za

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MIDLANDS

Beacon Vlei Nestled in the heart of the KwaZulu-Natal Midlands, overlooking its 23 hectare private dam, Beacon Vlei has a beauty and serenity which seduces, and imparts to one a state of supreme wellbeing and inner tranquillity. After a stay at Beacon Vlei, one returns to the city refreshed, invigorated and ready to face the challenges of life. Run by the Drew family, this gracious family home, formerly known by generations of Michaelhouse old boys as ‘Cliffes’ Dam’ Beacon Vlei now offers discerning guests the choice of luxurious 4 star B&B accommodation in the Manor House, and in its three separate freestanding homes: The Boat House, Rose Cottage & Crane Cottage, equally luxurious self-catering accommodation. Fireplaces abound throughout the establishment for those icy winter days and nights and all the bedrooms have heaters to further enhance the comfort of the cotton percale linen on all the beds.

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With magnificent views, fishing, birding and hiking, Beacon Vlei is ideal for a relaxing getaway. Beacon Vlei is situated in Balgowan, in the centre of the Midlands Meander and is a 10 minute walk from Michaelhouse, 21kms from Howick and 10kms from Nottingham Road. Full, hearty breakfasts are offered in the Manor House. The Manor House, Crane Cottage, The Boat House and Rose Cottage all offer full DSTV, for those who want to watch TV. As a destination for those who want to just relax or those who want to explore the delights of the Midlands Meander, Beacon Vlei is unsurpassed. from R360.00 B & B, Cottage: from R690.00 033 234 4486 www.beconvlei.co.za stayatbeaconvlei.co.za

MIDLANDS

Fordoun Fordoun, situated in the rolling hills of Nottingham Road in the KZN Midlands, was created and is managed with the goal that every guest should leave feeling uplifted, positive and relieved of stress. Converted from a farmyard and dairy, this boutique hotel and spa has won many awards and accolades over the last four years. Last year Fordoun was twice awarded South Africa’s Leading Spa. A glance at the guest comments book tells the story. “I could not have believed that 5 minutes from the N3 I would find utter peace and tranquillity, as if I was in another world. From the staff to the ambience, everything works towards helping one to ‘chill out’,” wrote one recent guest. Combining a hotel and restaurant with a spa in a great setting like the KZN Midlands gives guests the opportunity to make the most of what Fordoun has to offer. As a Destination Spa, the underlying philosophy

is that Fordoun is focussed on positive energy and the enjoyment of life. Whether guests are combining hotel and spa or just staying in the hotel, they will find delicious food (bordering on the indulgent), an exciting wine selection and staff who really appreciate the privilege of hosting them. from R850 pppns 033 266 6217 www.fordoun.com richard@fordoun.com

WILD COAST

Mbotyi River Lodge Situated in the wilderness area at the mouth of the Mbotyi River is Pondoland’s best kept secret. Mbotyi River Lodge offers a tranquil holiday or activity for the adventurer. Explore the many beautiful treasures this coast has to offer – including indigenous forests with amazing birdlife, waterfalls in deep gorges and glorious beaches below rolling grass hills or experience the authentic Pondo culture. Mbotyi River Lodge is situated 26 kilometers from Lusikisiki. One passes through the valleys of the Magwa Tea Plantation and then through lush forest. At the end of this road lies Mbotyi River Lodge and the beginning of a wonderful adventure. The Lodge has sea and lagoon facing, comfortable en suite rooms and each has a patio from which guests can listen to the cry of the fish eagles. The bar and games room enjoy awesome views of the Mbotyi beach and river mouth. The focus of Mbotyi River Lodge

cuisine is on taste and quality. Activities include hiking and walking trails through the forest or grasslands overlooking the sea with trained guides, canoeing, fishing, whale and dolphin watching, bird watching as well as horse riding. Scenic 4x4 drives can be taken to the waterfalls or just relax on the beach or at the pool. Children are catered for with well equipped outdoor and indoor play areas, beach cricket, soccer and volleyball. Child minders are available upon request. from R615 to R1125 pppns 082 674 1064 www.mbotyi.co.za info@mbotyi.co.za

WILD COAST

Umngazi River Bungalows & Spa Nestled in the idyllic setting of the Wild Coast’s rocky coastline and indigenous forests, Umngazi River Bungalows & Spa is the perfect getaway for families needing to escape. Umngazi’s tastefully furnished thatch-roofed bungalows enjoy a panoramic view of the unspoiled beauty of the Wild Coast while activities for young and old make this an ideal destination both out of season for families with pre-school children and in season for those with older children. Unwind beside the pool or on the secluded beach, or enjoy picnics and walks in the indigenous forests while children enjoy a full programme of activities. There is fishing, canoeing, tennis, horse-riding, dune boarding and organised games. For the little ones there is a creative corner with secure play area and a jungle gym. For teens there is a “pad” to chill with mates, play foosball and watch TV. Trained nannies are available to look after children

from newborns and up should parents want to take a walk on the beach, or enjoy a candlelit dinner. The main dining room provides a relaxed atmosphere with a delicious menu and special children’s menu. There’s also a children’s dining room so parents don’t need to worry about upsetting routines while on holiday. Therapists at Umngazi’s resort spa provide skin and body therapies to ensure guests leave feeling relaxed, pampered and rejuvenated. Treatments include massages as well as treatments for mothers-to-be, men, and fun treatments for children.

from R670.00 pppns (047) 564 1115/6/8/9 www.umngazi.co.za stay@umngazi.co.za

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SHOWTIMES WITH SHARK DISSECTIONS 09h00 and 14h00 Tue to Thu and 14h00 on Sun. Tel: (031) 566 0435 CURIO SHOP AND SHARK MUSEUM For unusual gifts and life-like replicas of marine life. Open Mon to Fri 08h00 to 16h00 and Sun from 13h00 to 16h00. BOAT TRIPS Venture out to sea to watch our crew at work servicing the shark safety gear off Durban’s Golden Mile. Boat trips lasting ± two hours leave Wilson’s Wharf at 06h30. Opportunistic viewing of marine life, including seabirds. Bookings - 082 403 9206. NO SHOWS ON RECOGNISED PUBLIC HOLIDAYS TERMS & CONDITIONS APPLY

Tel: (031) 566 0400

I www.shark.co.za

FOLLOW THE SIGNS ON UMHLANGA ROCKS DRIVE, PAST UMHLANGA HOSPITAL

Zingela Wildside Ad.indd 1

2/24/10 6:57:00 AM

We offer fully equipped self catering cottages, at the foot of the Sani Pass

Mkomazana

A nature lover’s paradise, one of the Southern Drakensberg’s best kept secrets!

Contact Rochelle Howard on 0825216343 • Fax 0866073540 Email mkomazana@telkomsa.net • www.wheretostay.co.za/mkomazana

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E C O T R AV E L • O U T D O O R A D V E N T U R E • C O N S E R VAT I O N

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MAGAZINE

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WILDSIDE The magazine

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TAKES YOU THERE

RHINO WAR

2010 TOP SPOTS

NIKON PHOTO COMP

Lou Coetzer

Inversanda Inversanda is a country lover’s haven situated in the beautiful Dargle valley in the Midlands of KwaZulu-Natal. Acclaimed as the true definition of hospitality and hand picked by the prestigious Greenwood Guide, Inversanda is also a safe retreat for walking, birding, horse riding, mountain biking or trout fishing. Come and join us, we’re at the end of the road. Tel: 033 234 4321 www.inversanda.co.za

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that takes you there

This quarterly ecotravel magazine publishes a ELEPHANT MARINE READER SURF COAST ADVENTURE SPECIALS SAFARI summer, autumn, winter and spring edition and brings you a spread of holiday options throughout the year, fantastic competitions and giveaways, as well as up to date and inside information on key conservation trends and issues. SUMMER R21.95

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The next edition is published in autumn 2011 and will be a BUMPER INDABA EDITION, so book early with Tora Roberts.

Tel: 082 376 9115 Email: tora@wildsidesa.co.za 4of4 2010 WILDSIDE

QUIRIMBAS ARCHIPELAGO PEMBA

Tecomaji

Vamizi 1

Metundo

MO ZA MB IQ

Rongui

BEIRA

Quifuqui

2 Medjumbe

Island Escapism

Matemo Ibo 3 Quirimba Tavari

A string of islands float like diamonds off the coastline of remote northern Mozambique engulfed by swirls of sapphire waters and fringed with unspoiled coral reefs. They call these islands the Quirimbas. There is nowhere on the planet quite like it. WORDS: Jennifer Crawford PHOTOGRAPHS: Eddie Crawford

PEMBA

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Marine Mosaic

Islands for Sale

As we peered out of the small windows of the tiny fixed wing plane with the propeller whirring in the background, we were mesmerized by the patterns that swirled beneath us formed by dramatic tidal differences. Azure and cobalt blue waters swirled, sandy banks gleamed under barely a meter of translucent water, dark blue channels framed circles of turquoise and sand-bars stretched out alongside jade waterways. It’s a marine mosaic. The only way to appreciate the expanse of the archipelago is from the air – notwithstanding that flying in the small plane adds to a sense of romance and escapism. The Quirimbas Archipelago is a chain of 32 islands - remnants of a mainland delta now marooned by rising seas – that stretches from the coastal town of Pemba for 200 km up to the Rovuma River, Mozambique’s northern border with Tanzania.

Even though almost all of the 32 islands are ‘sold’ referring to the land-use concessions of up to 50 years granted by the Mozambique government there’s only a handful with lodges on them, excluding Ibo Island in the south. The Rani group has been most successful with lodges on Matemo and Medjumbe, while Vamizi being the most northerly developed island, is adding villa home ownership to the existing lodge on the island. Billionaire Tokyo Sexwale bought the Quilálea Island Resort in November 2008 but it was recently on the market and word is it has been sold. Quilálea is currently closed. There are several island concessions up for sale but not publicly. Prices are unclear although an island called Pambele near Quilálea is said to have been on the market for around R30 million two years ago. The slow development in the Quirimbas is because it is expensive, and the logistics are complicated. The islands are far-flung, so getting materials there and then later ongoing supplies, is expensive and challenging. Lack of fresh water on the islands means running desalination plants which have large energy costs. The slow development and low volume

Delightfully Desolate These islands, including the 12 major islands and 20 smaller coralline outcrops, are largely uninhabited and undeveloped. From the plane we caught glimpses of makuti thatch dwellings on some islands and rows of palm trees. The islands

“Ribbons of white sandy beaches encircled the islands…” appeared deserted. Ribbons of white sandy beaches encircled the islands. We spotted whales and dolphins in the transparent waters below. The mangrove-fringed coastline of the mainland came into view from time to time as we headed north. On the mainland here in northern Mozambique, wildlife still roams the miombo woodland and acacia savannah, with elephant, buffalo, wild dog, lion, sable and kudu some of the endemic species present. Great towering trees lead inland to massive granite outcrops. I felt suspended between two worlds wild Africa on the mainland and one of the most biodiverse marine ecosystems on its coast.

of visitors means a smaller footprint and the survival of the natural, biodiverse and magnificent Quirimbas. People are dubbing the Quirimbas the new Maldives, others say it’s similar to the North Island in the Seychelles. I say the Quirimbas is in a league of its own because of its natural and unspoiled beauty including world class diving and fishing due to some of the world’s healthiest marine ecosystems.

Photographed on the ‘spit’ on Medjumbe Island.

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VAMIZI Island

My soul loves this place. It’s pure and filled with treasure. Not the kind you can take home, but the kind your mind’s eye can keep forever. Jewel coloured reefs. Silver birds. Turquoise seas. A choker around the island made of the whitest sand with beautiful shell pendants. My love affair with Vamizi started six years ago when I spent a week on the island and was part of a team releasing turtle hatchlings into the ocean. I yearned for Vamizi ever since and it had become the yardstick by which I measured all other.

You’d think I’d be excited to return but instead I was nervous because what if, after all this time, I’d been conjuring up this island to be far more beautiful than it really was. My dream may vanish. When I was seduced by Vamizi I had not seen enough to truly evaluate and in the ensuing years I have travelled some. I might feel differently now. These thoughts were running through my head as we flew towards Vamizi Island situated in the far north of the Quirimbas Archipelago off the coast of Mozambique. I’d opted to sit in the front of the small plane alongside the pilot which wasn’t a good idea because as we approached, the island suddenly seemed to rush at us with speed scaring the daylights out of me just before we bumped down onto a little runway. My heart was pounding and my hands were sweating. We seemed to wobble along and then spluttered to a stop. Wasn’t like this last time I thought wryly. No runway back then, we’d arrived by speedboat. We clamoured out of the plane and felt the warm sun baking down. We piled into a land rover and bounced along for a half hour or so through a palm grove, past waving villagers, and through dense forest. The drive was wonderful in that it contextualized the setting of a wild island and allowed anticipation and excitement to build up as we drew nearer to the lodge. We pulled into a small clearing amongst pine trees and dappled light to be greeted by a friendly Vamizi team offering icy juice and cool face cloths. I could barely contain myself, I wanted to head onto the beach and check up on my long lost love and see if it was as I imagined or if I had been young and foolish.

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Clockwise: Deep sea fishing trips offered by Vamizi are highly rewarding as there is an abundance of game fish such as giant trevally, yellow-fin tuna, sailfish and marlin. The soft white sand and turquoise waters of Vamizi Island. An aerial shot of the island. You can find private stretches of beach to tan and swim. The huge, private and beautiful villas on the beach. Fly-fishing on the shore a few metres from the villa.

It is one of the healthiest coral reef ecosystems in the world, abundant with indicator species

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Untamed Desolate Beauty I held my breath as we padded barefoot along a small pathway and onto the softest white sand. It took a few minutes to drink it all in. The infinite stretch of beautiful beach punctuated with stark black volcanic rocky outcrops, calm turquoise translucent waters, and a magical and gentle sea breeze that appears and disappears. Magnificent. You could find this on many other islands though, so what’s the distinction? Vamizi stands apart from all others because of a wildness and remoteness, an untamed and desolate beauty. This sense of wildness subconsciously creates expectation that you’ll witness some amazing natural spectacle. You probably will. We certainly did, and it was breathtaking - but back to staring at Vamizi and deciding. Yes, I was right all along, Vamizi is all that I had remembered. We remained barefoot for the rest of our stay as is almost customary at Vamizi. They take barefoot luxury quite literally here.

Neptune’s Arm I was better equipped to appreciate Vamizi on this second visit as I’d acquired a dive qualification in-between, however the snorkeling was and still is as exquisite as ever. There are nine snorkeling sites around Vamizi, all of which have incredible fish and coral species. Unlike many of its Indian Ocean cousins, Vamizi suffered none of the 1992 Eli Nino coral bleaching. Ecologists have identified 46 genera of coral species with more than 400 species of fish and deemed this one of the healthiest coral reef ecosystems in the world, abundant with indicator species. With little fishing pressure, sharks and big game fish abound. It is one of the healthiest coral reef ecosystems in the world, abundant with indicator species. “The area surrounding Vamizi is one of the last, great, unknown dive areas in Africa. New sites are discovered monthly.” says Eli Lang who heads up the dive centre at Vamizi. Eli has travelled to over 40 countries looking for amazing places to dive says that the dive site at Vamizi ‘Neptune’s Arm’ is one of the most incredible he has seen in his 1 500 dive career. Neptune’s Arm is a large multi-pointed pinnacle that juts up from a sunken island wall, with 200m vertical drops on three sides. Between the pinnacle and the wall, a sheer canyon drops 30m to a sandy floor. The canyon walls rise up on either side sprouting florescent bunches of orange gorgonians and green tree corals.

Nine Foot Sailfish Up to thirty grey reef sharks (Carcharhinus amblyrhynchos) can be seen at the pinnacles at one time. They come to the pinnacles for cleaning – they pause, tails down, heads up and mouths open, allowing cleaner fish to search for parasites. Snapper, batfish, barracuda and jacks, hundreds strong are to be found, as well as potato bass and brindle bass. There are twelve main dive sites at Vamizi. I dived at Pointo Papagaio where you will see leaf fish, giant moray eels, hundreds of cleaner shrimp, and nudibranches. At 18m the wall drops vertically to over 200m. Eli recently saw a nine-foot sailfish

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streak past. The wall showcases a high concentration of game fish - giant trevally, king mackerel, barracudas and dog-tooth tuna hunting the endless schools of fusiliers. Turtles, potato bass and napoleon wrasse were also seen.

Time To Zone Out Vamizi has its own time zone, which is the same as Dar es Salaam, Tanzania – not that it mattered much to me because I just zoned out. You can’t not zone out. The only times for me were either daytime or night time. Daytime was reserved for snorkeling, diving, shore or deep sea fishing, dhow sailing, forest trails, beach walks, and picnics on the other side of the island which you could book out for total exclusivity. Night time offered up cocktails around the sunset bar or in the large open plan lounge, candlelit dinners on the beach, and long lazy walks along moonlit white sand. You can only reach your villa via the beach, and there was something special about walking barefoot to dinner. The food was superb and included seafood and interesting salads, and unusual desserts with my favourite being vodka sorbet. The secluded villas are masterpieces providing understated beach luxury and this sits so well with the wild beauty of the island. There are 13 villas, set back from the beach just enough to be hidden from view amongst the trees. Space is the ultimate luxury and the enormous villas certainly subscribe to this. The makuti thatch and wood villas have no doors or windows, just beautiful carved East African Arabic style shutters. Thin wispy white cotton drapes dance around pretending to be curtains – not that you need them because the villas are spread some 70 metres apart to ensure total privacy. The villas have luxurious touches like marble showers stocked with Africology products, comfy day beds, kikois and straw hats for your use, a well stocked bar fridge, and real coffee. There’s no television or air-conditioner. However the incoming sea breeze floats through your room each night and the makuti thatch with a wide overhand ensures your villas is always cool and if it’s not there is the paddle fan.

You Are Not Alone There are lots of little visitors to your villa. During the day we were delighted when a pretty little sunbird flew into our villa and spent much time looking at itself in the mirror while a kingfisher was a regular guest perching itself on a nearby tree. The samango monkeys kept their distance, unlike the hermit crabs who came out each night in droves lurking around our foot basin outside our villa. We’d have to check that all was clear before stepping into the marble square of water to rinse off the sand. The lack of a natural source of fresh water forces the little hermits to the villas at night for a drink. During the day they hid in the foliage found under trees or dug out holes in the sand. Hermit crabs move from one shell to another as they grow and without a shell they are vulnerable to predators. Once a shell is chosen, the crab will inspect it using its claw checking for size and checking its empty. Fights amongst hermit crabs break out over good shells. So next time you want to take some shells home, just think you are taking someone’s home away.

“The dive areas here are one of the last great unknown dive areas in Africa.”

Eli Lang, diver with a 1 500 dives career.

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WILDSIDE Fact Tracker

Massive Coconut Crab We were returning at dusk from the one side of the long thin island of Vamizi back to our villa in the Land Rover when the lights shone on something large and reddish in the middle of the road which cut through the dense forest. “Small coconut crab,” says our driver. “That thing is massive!” shrieked one of the guys as the coconut crab, one of the largest land-living anthropods in the world kind of jogged back into the forest. It was too dark to go after him, besides, the driver was determined that it was only a ‘small one’. We’d later learn he was quite right. The coconut crab (Birgus latro) is considered to be at the upper limit of how big terrestrial animals with exoskeletons can become. The body length can be up to 40cm, they weigh up to 4kgs, and have a leg span of a metre and can live for 30 years. They have powerful claws that can cut down coconuts which are then hauled back up the tree by the crab and dropped so as to crack them open. They are found in coastal forest regions of many Indo-pacific islands and are considered to be a threatened species. We were pretty glad there were no coconut palms near our villa.

VAMIZI Vamizi is the most northerly lodge in the Quirimbas Archipelago and surrounded by deep water and healthy corals. The warmest months are between October to April with temperatures around 270C and the water temperature in summer around 260C. Largest land-living anthropod:

Coconut Crab (Birgus latro). Photograph Rebecca Dominguez.

Natural Spectacle – Washing Machine Of Mullet It was our last day on Vamizi and we were sitting quietly at the breakfast table looking onto the beautiful ocean. Then all hell broke loose. There was a loud thrashing sound in the water. Fish, flying silver-grey fish, masses and masses of them. They were flying through the air, diving into the water, churning it up and bursting to the surface again. A washing machine of mullet. They were being chased probably by a huge wahoo. Breakfast was abandoned, and the guys ran off down the beach with fly rods in hand. It’s this type of natural spectacle – the flying mullet that is, not men with fly rods - that confirms my thoughts about Vamizi and its wild beauty. I fell in love all over again – with the island and my husband.

You reach the island via charter either from Pemba or from Mocimboa da Praia in Mozambique. You can either fly with Airlink, a comfortable and easy flight from Johannesburg to Pemba which Wildside did, or go to Dar es Salaam and then onto Mocimboa da Praia on CFA Air Charters. Rates: From R3920 (US$560) pppns including all meals and drinks including cocktails, a range of activities including snorkeling, kayaking, beach picnics, dhow sailing. Excluded is international or island transfers, diving, fishing, some spirits and champagnes. Ask about specials run throughout the year. To Book: Tel: +44 (0)1285 762218 Email: enquiries@vamizi.com Diving and Fishing: The best dives on Vamizi are at 20-30m. Dive group sizes are small and sites around Vamizi are dived by no one else. Excellent deep sea fishing is offered. A 28 foot Magnum is the queen of the Vamizi fleet equipped with the latest electronics. Deep-sea charter costs R1000 per hour. Accommodation: 13 villas in total. Eight luxury villas; two of the villas are double villas, with two sea-facing bedrooms per villa divided by a large open lounge and sun deck. Three of the villas are family villas, with two rooms, one sea– facing, and the other room built to the back of the villa, to accommodate a total of five persons.

MEDJUMBE PRIVATE ISLAND A sliver of white glints in the luminous turquoise blue water and as we draw closer in the small plane this dazzling island gradually comes into focus. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Medjumbe Private Island in the Quirimbas Archipelago.

The guys became addicted to fly-fishing the spit because they

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I FEEL LIKE A CELEBRITY ARRIVING ON MY OWN SLICE OF PARADISE IN THE MIDDLE OF THE OCEAN BECAUSE MEDJUMBE IS SMALL ENOUGH TO MAKE YOU FEEL THAT YOU OWN IT. It’s only 1km long and 500m wide but the ‘spit’, as the long sand-bar tail of the island is referred to, is unique and quite exquisite. The tidal changes are so drastic though that I’m not sure if the size of the island is at low tide or high tide, but either way, it feels as though it’s all yours. There are no locals living on the island, it’s just the lodge team and the guests and there are only 13 chalets on the island. The makuti thatch chalets are little havens of luxury each with a private Jacuzzi and hammock. The chalets are air-conditioned and boast four-poster beds, an en-suite bathroom and an outside shower.

Turquoise and Crimson If you find yourself dozing off to sleep and waking up at high tide, you will be forgiven for drawing your feet up towards you as it seems that the luminous turquoise water wants to edge into your chalet. A swim at high tide is delightful and only a few steps away from your chalet. Yet at low tide there is stark white sand that stretches out forever until it finally meets with a line of turquoise blue in the distance and strolls along here are unique. The tidal differences in Mozambique are amongst the greatest in the world and here on Medjumbe, the tidal changes create a dramatic and ever changing seascape. It is like wandering around a water-colour painting – there are watery brush strokes of the palest turquoise, thin slashes of a slightly deeper blue, and splashes of sky blue here and there. Just when I thought the palette was a little too monochromatic, the sun sets. Sitting at the end of the long sand spit in the middle of the ocean at sunset is quite out of this world. The skies turn crimson as the sun sets with brush strokes of luminous orange and overtones of gold. In the distance is a very teenie weenie island, uninhabited, and it provides a classic backdrop to the setting sun.

Catch and Release on the Sand Spit

were catching so frequently

The long sand spit is lapped on both sides by the turquoise and translucent waters and it beckons you to explore it each day because you just don’t know what you will find, or catch. As we wandered up and down the beach my friend collected shells in her big spotted beach bag placing each one carefully. There were brown speckled conch shells, large pink conch shells, and pansy shells amongst others. Knowing that we can’t leave the island with them, and rightfully so, I asked Roxy what she was going to do with ‘her’ bag of shells. “It’s the same as the guys’ fly fishing,” she quipped while starring down at the soft white sand in search of yet another gorgeous shell. “Exactly the same concept, different species. Catch, photograph and release,” she continued. I giggled at this but after a while started helping her collect her ‘treasure collection’ for the photographic shoot and made sure to tell the general manager, Yanni Classen, of this activity lest he thought Wildside was abandoning its conservation ethos. He laughed out loud and didn’t believe us until it was time for the 4of4 2010 WILDSIDE

photo shoot of the collection. I think ‘shell catch and release’ is now an official activity at Medjumbe. The catch and release for the fly-fishermen was going just as well as the shell activity. The guys became addicted to fly-fishing the spit because they were catching frequently both at dawn and at dusk.

Crayfish Bar Snacks and ‘Tom Cruise’ Food at Medjumbe is excellent and if you enjoy seafood you are in for a treat. The most telling is that one night there was a ridiculously enormous crayfish on the bar counter “bar snack” says Yanni pointing to the dressed chilled cray – it looked almost too good to eat. There were prawns, crayfish and fresh fish daily, as well as a variety of other foods from tuna sashimi to meat. You can go kayaking to work it all off. The cocktails were pretty killer too, and my favourite was their Caipirinha pronounced “kie-purr-reeen- ia” by the marvelous Mozambican bartender aka Tom Cruise from the movie Cocktail as he practiced flinging bottles around, not always successfully but always enthusiastically. You can also laze around the pool at the main lodge to sip on your cocktails, or escape to the quiet elevated lounge in the main lodge.

This reef wall was an alluring and intoxicating wonderland with lace coral fans that nodded gently, flamboyant fish that darted past, gulping moray eels wedged between lime green plants, and manicure giving shrimps. Edge Of Reason The water around Medjumbe is crystal clear and is a fairly constant 27o C climbing to 30o C in summer. Dive Instructor Steven Collins suggested we go to the dive site known as Edge of Reason - a 200m vertical drop off. The pristine reefs here offer some of the finest diving in the world and an astonishing marine diversity. There are dive sites yet to be discovered. We headed out to sea from Medjumbe and within minutes saw dolphins. It’s idyllic. We reached the dive site and needed to do a negative descent in order to get down quickly as the sea was choppy and we didn’t want to miss the wall or, as Steve pointed out, it would be really difficult to find. So as crazy as it sounds we dived in looking for the … Edge of Reason.

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Clockwise: Diving the wall called Edge of Reason. Photograph by Lars Witberg. The view from your chalet which has its own private plunge pool. Deep sea fishing trips are highly rewarding as is the shore angling. The main lodge area on Medjumbe Island. Fresh crayfish, prawns, and fish make up the superb menu. Shells collected along the beach only for purposes of a photograph.

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We floated into a cave in the wall, and almost bumped into a group of about 15 white ‘sweet lips’ who didn’t move… Diving at Medjumbe. Photograph by Lars Witberg.

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This reef wall was an alluring and intoxicating wonderland with lace coral fans that nodded gently, flamboyant fish that darted past, gulping moray eels wedged between lime green plants, and manicure giving shrimps. We dived to 25m and Steve used his torch to light up this wall of colour and life. We floated into a cave in the wall, and almost bumped into a group of about 15 white ‘sweet lips’ who didn’t move out the way so instead we just all sat there and stared at each other. A loggerhead turtle glided in to see what was going on, and as we swam out we saw large schools of kingfish. We didn’t hear the song of the humpback whale, but when we broke the

WILDSIDE Fact Tracker

Medjumbe Private Island Medjumbe Private Island: Lies on the edge of the protected Quirimbas National Park in a remote area that is under threat from illegal foreign fishing operations. Rani Resorts has donated a naval control boat to the Mozambican authorities in order to protect the country’s northern waters from illegal long-line fishing by foreign trawlers. Medjumbe acts as a valuable watchdog presence in this sensitive environment and has helped in the past to apprehend illegal trawlers. Medjumbe is owned and run by Rani Resorts, the same company that owns Matemo Island resort in the Quirimbas, and Indigo Bay Island Resort

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surface after our dive some 40 minutes later, the people on the boat told us of their amazing sighting of a humpback whale and her calf. Steve took us snorkelling in the afternoon which was excellent and included seeing giant purple clams, puffer fish, angel fish and triggerfish amongst the variety of other resident reef fish. We had to say good bye to the island and the spit that we had become so used to walking up and down. We walked to the point where a large colony of terns swooped into the sky as if to carry our hearts away.

and Spa in Mozambique’s southerly Bazaruto Archipelago recently featured in Wildside. Pemba Beach Hotel and Spa and Lugenda Wilderness Camp in Mozambique. Accommodation: There are 13 palmthatched beach chalets on the island all just steps away from the sea. The chalets are all air-conditioned, have en-suite bathrooms with an indoor and outdoor shower, satellite TV, a private plunge pool with ocean views and a hammock to while away the time. Diving and Fishing: Excellent dives ranging from 12m to 30m. Dive group sizes are small and sites are dived by no one else. Excellent deep sea fishing is offered with some of the most exciting game fish to catch including kingfish, queenfish, barracuda, dorado, sierra,

wahoo, sailfish and yellow-fin tuna. The Gulf Craft 31 boat has been especially adapted to shield guests from the sun. Rates: From R3605 (UD$515) pppns including, all meals and drinks including cocktails, non-motorised water sports, marine reserve fees and laundry. Ask about specials as there are often some fantastic deals. Note: No children under 12 years. Tel: 011 658 0633 Email: info@raniresorts.co.za Access: Guests can fly into Pemba from Johannesburg on Airlink, or fly into Dar es Salaam and transfer to Medjumbe with CFA Air Charters.

IBO ISLAND Sea Kayak & Dhow Safari Debbie Cooper went off to experience Ibo Island and explore neighbouring islands on a sea kayaking safari in the Quirimbas, the only one of its kind. Plum in the heart of the Quirimbas National Park, close to the mainland, lies Ibo Island, a vibrant living museum embracing a cocktail of cultural influences dating back to 600AD when Arab ships plied their trade along the shores. Gold, ivory and slaves were the main attraction, and the fiercely contested prizes saw many pirate battles fought in these waters over the next thousand years. Indian, Chinese, Dutch, Madagascan and the Portuguese, who colonised Mozambique in the 1500s, all made their mark on the island.

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Ibo’s strategic position and political importance saw it rise to the status of capital of Delgado province in the 1800s, with a thriving agricultural industry supplying surrounding areas with grains, meat, beans and other products farmed on Ibo. Slavery boomed and as a result, three forts were built to secure the lucrative trade. Of these, only the Fort of Sao Joao Batista, built in 1791, has been restored and serves as a striking landmark from the air and reminder of days gone by. The pentagonal structure is one of four such remaining designs in Africa, of which Cape Town’s famous fort is another. Ibo reigned supreme until 1902 when municipal power was transferred to Port Amelia (now Pemba), and the gradual decline and neglect of the island’s infrastructure began, hastened by the overnight expulsion of ‘foreigners’ in 1975 by the new government after Mozambique gained independence. By the turn of the century, the island was a fading memory in the country’s annals of history, with a few villagers remaining in a time warp although the region has once again appeared on the international radar since Ibo island was nominated for World Heritage Site status in 2008. Flying into Ibo Island from Pemba, the short charter flight affords the most spectacular overview of this magical wonderland of river tendrils spreading through some of the densest natural mangrove colonies in the world (at least eight identified species), outwards towards the pristine islandscape with its swirls of white sandbanks giving way to a kaleidoscope of blues in a textbook version of paradise.

IBO Island Lodge When South African couple Kevin and Fiona Record beached on the shores of Ibo in the early 1990s, the love affair was instant. Of all the many stunning sights this well-travelled pair had seen, Ibo took the crown. Crumbling ruins of glory days long faded, ignited the flame for rebirth. Enlisting the skills and labour of over 120 islanders, the couple got down and dirty with every tiny detail of the mammoth restoration of buildings whose metre-thick walls and original tiled roofs were literally falling to pieces. Using traditional building materials of coral and lime, and commissioning handmade teak furniture and fittings, the team lovingly

rebuilt three stately houses as true replicas of their former stature. Several years of gruelling, rewarding slog later, the gracious and elegant results have earned Ibo Island Lodge the rightful respect and accolades of renowned travel critics. Guests are afforded privacy, exclusivity and indulgence, delicious traditional meals and all the usual comforts including the welcome embrace of air conditioning in this sultry climate. Passion and gratitude for Ibo’s blessings have seen the Records extend their sense of responsibility into starting and supporting local industries like fresh produce from market gardens and a small community school free of charge. They also encourage environmentally sustainable practices through education, and purchasing only appropriately sized fish and shellfish. Guests are thus assured that by supporting the Lodge, they in turn positively affect many lives as well as the longevity of the natural resources. Visitors are also reminded to leave shells and natural artefacts untouched – a policy that is legally enforced on departure from Pemba where all bags are checked. From the stunning natural views to dilapidated, intricately detailed buildings entwined with tree roots, warm open smiles from friendly locals and sunsets that leave one quite breathless, Ibo is a drug to photographers. Like a feast of experiences all packaged into one small island, it’s an assault on the senses that takes days to assimilate. Gone are the dark days of slavery, where tortured souls were packed into dank cells within the forts’ walls; legend claims it remains haunted by their cries. Today these same rooms house some of Ibo’s most famous craftsmen, producing delicate, intricate silver jewellery using ancient Indian techniques and influence

Opposite page: Clockwise: Aerial view of Mozambique’s coastline, Local woman with

traditional clay-painted face, Kayaking the crystal waters, The dhow Vagabundo and tender boat. This page from the top: View from the dhow, Ibo Island Lodge bar and restaurant deck at night, Ibo Island Lodge, Sao Jaoa Batista fort, Ibo Island. 4of4 2010 WILDSIDE

from Goa in particular also played an integral role. Originally working with Portuguese silver coins, they now receive silver imported by the Lodge owners, who also actively market their wares internationally. Traditional designs have been refreshed through the mentorship of leading designers brought onto Ibo to assist in creating pieces of universal appeal.

Sea Kayaking Safari I’m floating in water so perfectly temperate that I’m barely aware of my skin. Drifting through coral outcrops as flamboyant fish dart about, it’s almost impossible to remember the world I left behind only three days ago. Finally driven by thirst, I clamber aboard the traditional teak dhow Vagabundo for a cool G&T on the warm upper deck, my salt-soaked kikoi flapping in the light breeze, and contemplate the most important dilemma of the dayhow many words are there to describe the jewel colours of the sea? Malachite, indigo, azure, aquamarine, copper, silver and overall, the most brilliant, exquisite turquoise. Everything around me is so vivid, so enhanced and dramatic. The exaggerated rise and fall of tides, the purple intensity of sudden rain, the starkly white crystalline sand giving way to jagged rocks, massive washed up conch shells and huge spreading star chestnut trees. Ancient shell fossils and crumbling ruins of historic buildings, and the multiple whispers of those who have lived on these islands for aeons. It’s really all too much brain activity and so instead, I focus on the next most pressing engagement: lunch. Yet another magnificent seafood offering of octopus, giant crabs, crayfish, prawns or kingfish plucked fresh from the sea, followed by locally grown coffee and perhaps a pancake dripping with rich Ibo honey. Sigh.. We’re here to experience one of the latest offerings by Ibo Island Lodge Company, a sea kayaking trip exploring the neighbouring uninhabited islands. It all sounds terribly active, adventurous and exciting, and indeed it is, but it’s so laid back and chilled that your Granny could do it, and children will be in their element. After a night of pure luxury and culinary hedonism at the Ibo Island Safaris, and an early morning whizz around the remarkable historic town with a madly snapping camera in the early golden light, we bade farewell to our excellent hosts. A short speedboat ride brings us to an oh-my-goodness-how-stunning, stark white sandbank rising out of the sparkling water. Perched in the centre, a Bedouin tent awaits us for a hearty breakfast al fresco. So far so perfect. Now for some paddle action. The great thing about double kayaks is it equates to half the work. Of course there’s the option to go solo too, for enthusiasts, but really no need to break more than a fine sweat while gently slicing the soft swells between us and our first stop on the mainland at Ulumbwa estuary mouth. You can even throw a rod in behind you if fishing is your thing. Should the paddling become tiring, just raise an arm elegantly and the tender boat will scoot across and whisk you back to the following dhow. But trust me, you need the exercise to work off that breakfast and make room for lunch, so rather pump it. Cleverly, I chose our guide Harris to back me up in the kayak, leaving me plenty of time to take paddle-breaks and study the clear shallow waters for sea life. With a sudden exclamation he points to our right as a giant ray and its tiny silver baby slip past, inches away from our craft. What a fantastic treat! This page from top: Sunset from Sao Jaoa Batista fort, Vagabundo anchored at Ulumbwa

Estuary, Harris preparing breakfast al fresco on the sandbank. Opposite page clockwise: Time to go ashore, Ibo Island, Traditional dhow at Ulumbwa Estuary, Approaching Mogundula Island by dhow, Camping under star chestnuts on Mogundula Island, Paddling at Ulumbwa Estuary, Ibo Island Lodge, Table setting at Mogundula mobile camp, Mogundula Island.

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Above: Mangroves at Ulumbwa estuary, Paddling Ulumbwa Estuary.

We’re doing the express version of what is usually an extremely leisurely eight day safari, traditionally visiting Matemo Island as a first stop. Instead, we bypass this, reaching the estuary after a couple of hours where we glide to a rest amongst a verdant wonderland of halfsubmerged mangroves festooned with water birds. Harris is thrilled to point out the crab plovers – a rare visitor that has made its way all the way south from Iraq. (And wouldn’t you too?) He tells us we might spot up to 250 species in the area, especially waders. Quickly we tick off grey and green-backed herons, sacred ibis and numerous others I haven’t even heard of. To the delighted audience of several villagers, our mobile tented camp is set up under the swishing palms that sound just like soothing rain. They’re exceptionally friendly and despite no common language, I instantly become firm friends with several of the youngsters as I wander through the woven palm leaf houses of their nearby settlement. It’s just marvellous to interact with such welcoming hosts, who take huge delight in having their photos taken and seeing them in the playback screen. Then we’re off again to explore the jungle of pencil roots and bizarrely shaped mangroves lining the river as far as the eye can see. Our home for the next couple of days is uninhabited sacred Mogundula Island. We travel by dhow as we are covering some distance from Ulumbwa. Creaking planks and lapping waves, the sounds lull us into slumber as the giant white sail leads us northwards to a tiny destination so stunning that words can’t do it justice. 62

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Once again the tents are up under beautiful star chestnuts, the island explored on foot and later circled by kayak, in between snorkelling and lazing and dreaming of ways to never leave. Life is largely tide-driven in coastal Mozambique. When the tide is out or the wind doesn’t blow, dhows sit idle, waiting patiently for the water to rise again. A trip could be hours or it could be days, depending on the breeze. So be it. The rhythm of this life is so effortless and calming that before long I’ve forgotten what day it is, and as for keeping time, what a ludicrous concept. It may as well have slowed right down to a fraction of the outside world. One of the curious things about being in the tropics is the regularity of the time of sunsets – nature’s clock. And so it is that each evening shortly after 5pm, we take up our ringside seats wherever we find ourselves – the lodge deck, the shoreline – for the spectacular bands of colour fading slowly to a deep red, shaded by the woodsmoke and dust over the mainland at the gentle closing of another magical island day. And it’s only by counting the sunsets that we realise our trip is almost over. Tomorrow a short dhow trip to Mocojo on the mainland and a four hour drive through the park will deliver us back to the small, chaotic Pemba airport for our homeward flight. Reflecting on numerous other beautiful island destinations I’ve seen, I realise that the incredible impression of being one of the first to discover and experience an area is unsurpassable. Original and untainted by development, one feels

simultaneously delighted and dismayed that it surely cannot remain as pure as this for much longer. The ominous presence of Chinese logging operations down south; the relentless removal of live shells for sale to tourists up north – these things are bound to leave scars on the land and seascape if left unchecked. But for now, the feeling of adventure, surprise and wonder is heady and powerful. Long live Quirimbas. Long live Ibo. Long live Mozambique. WILDSIDE Fact Tracker

Ibo Island Lodge How to get there: Airlink flights depart from Johannesburg direct to Pemba twice a week (2 hours 40 minutes) or alternatively via Maputo with LAM. Packages: Ibo Island Lodge can tailor packages to include kayak and dhow safaris, jewellery making and a range of add-on options. There are also scheduled dates for individual travellers. An eight day kayak or dhow safari, all inclusive ex Pemba, from R9 950. Exclusive Wildside reader offer for a five day Ibo Island Lodge package of R5 995. Rates: South Africans (and other SADC members) enjoy discounted rates from R1750 (US$ 250) pppns full board. Travel Tips: Visas are not required for South African citizens. Currency on Ibo is US Dollars and there are no ATMs or exchange facilities. Be sure to take sufficient to buy silver jewellery and other locally produced items. September is a perfect time to visit – not too crowded or hot. Pack: A dry bag is useful for protecting possessions on the dhow or kayaks. Contact: Tel: 021 702 0285 www.iboisland.com

WILDSIDE READER OFFER

FIVE NIGHT STAY INCL. RETURN LIGHT AIRCRAFT TRANSFERS FOR

IBO ISLAND Lost in time until now There is a place, on the edge of Africa described as one of the most unique and magical islands in the world. Once Mozambique’s mighty trading centre, Ibo Island, Quirimbas Archipelago National Park, Northern Mozambique, has remained all but forgotten to the outside world for almost a century. Wandering around this romantic little town that has been zoned for World Heritage status, I explore old forts and ancient buildings and feel the islands history and legends crunching under my feet. How did all this come to be here, so far away from anything else? My home from home is the romantic Ibo Island Lodge, overlooking the bay and sunset and a flotilla of traditional dhows that sail out to sea on each high tide. Magnificent mansions each over one hundred years old with walls over a meter thick and high lofty ceilings, house just 9 beautifully simple, yet elegant rooms with air con and fans - all with indigenous solid

teak and mahogany furniture, handcrafted by the people of Ibo. Two swimming pools, lush tropical gardens, wafts of frangipani, bougainvillea and the sound of palm trees on the breeze. Everyone’s favourite spot is the roof terrace restaurant serving cocktails under the stars. If you can drag yourself away from the deep veranda chairs, the lodge also offers a wide array of included activities to keep you busy. LIFE’S A BEACH Ibo’s best kept secret is the sand spit beach reached via a short boat trip from the lodge. For those in search of a pristine beach experience this is it! Grilled lobster served under a Bedouin tent and afterwards snorkel off into cool blue water, to explore delicate corals and hundreds of fish. IBO OF YESTERDAY GUIDED TOUR The lodge’s professional guides will take you out into Ibo’s

beautiful stone town and bring the history and legends alive. It’s a lost world appeal, with tales of pirates, prisoners, turtle shells and silver. IBO OF TODAY GUIDED EXPERIENCE Ibo Island bursts at the seams with culture and tradition. Born and bred on Ibo, Anli leads the lodge’s guided cultural walks. Often traditional African drumming can be heard wafting along the breeze signalling a festival. Don’t worry, Anli can get you an invite and you’ll discover a way of life uniquely Ibo. GUIDED KAYAK AND DHOW, BIRD AND NATURE WALKS You can also take to the water to discover more of the Quirimbas National Park in graceful sailing and motorized dhows. If paddling is more your style, with a guide, kayak through the 2nd largest mangrove forest in Africa where the bird life is abundant.

R5995

deserved reputation for some of the best food in Mozambique. Think giant tiger prawns, game fish, fresh salads and tropical fruit, and the house speciality: fresh crab curry with fragrant soft, and fluffy coconut rice. Oh and don’t forget to relax, refresh your senses with a massage sip a frosty Mozambican beer and soak up the exotic atmosphere. ADVENTURER Ibo Island Lodge also offers mobile dhow and kayak safaris into the Quirimbas Archipelago – Debbie Cooper was a recent adventurer – read about her trip on page 56 For specials, group and family rates, honeymoons and all enquiries contact: www.iboisland.com reservations@iboisland.com Tel: +27 21 702 0285 Find Ibo Island Lodge on Facebook and twitter

WINE AND DINE Ibo Island Lodge has a

*Terms and conditions apply. Contact IBO Island Lodge. 4of4 2010 WILDSIDE

WILDSIDE 4 OF 4 2010 S U M M E R

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T H E

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T H A T

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MAGAZINE

ESCAPES

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2010 TOP SPOTS

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SURF SAFARI 2010/11/28 1:38 PM

8500 subscribers don’t miss a single edition of Wildside – Make sure you don’t either Visit www.wildsidesa.co.za and subscribe on line to this quality quarterly ecotravel magazine for only R80 per year. All subscribers are automatically entered into numerous competitions.

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NOSY ALONG TO Tropical Paradise in Madagascar Nosy Sakatia, is a small island situated off the North West coast of Madagascar, and just west of Nosy Be. Nosy Sakatia Island offers the typical unspoilt tropical fauna and flora of this area, only 6.5 km long and 2 km wide at its widest point, it has a population of only 300 inhabitants. There are no roads here, only foot paths. You can wonder around at leisure and explore its wild beauty, and deserted beaches. The island is fringed by spectacular coral reefs to be enjoyed by snorkelers and scuba divers alike. SAKATIA LODGE Sakatia Lodge is situated at the foot of the Sacred Mountain and Nature Reserve on Nosy Sakatia Island and offers comfortable accommodation, a range of activities, great food and friendly hosts. ACCOMMODATION Sakatia Lodge offers four large Ocean Bungalows with sea views, with single or double beds, a veranda, bathroom with shower and separate toilet. There are four smaller Nature Bungalows, rustic but comfortable and have single or double beds, a bathroom with shower and toilet. There is

the Madiro Family Bungalows on the beachfront offering either one or two bedrooms, with a veranda, bathroom with shower and toilet. There are two Beachfront Villas, one has three bedrooms, and one has two bedrooms, all with the comforts you will need and are ideal for families. The lodge has a lounge and bar area and separate restaurant which all overlook the ocean and is ensconced by the Sacred Forest of Sakatia. Be tempted by the chef’s fantasy in a blend of tropical cuisine, or sip sundowners after a daylong of either resting or activity. Your friendly hosts José, Isabella and staff will ensure that you have the getaway of your dreams. ACTIVITIES Sakatia Lodge is well known for its scuba diving, however there is also good deep sea fishing, horse riding, or quad biking. You can also explore the other nearby islands, or just simply “Mora Mora” the Malagasy term for slowly, slowly. SCUBA DIVING The well equipped dive centre at the lodge headed up by highly experienced and qualified divers is affiliated to DAN SA and offers scuba

diving and NAUI diving courses, from “Discover Snorkelling to Instructor as well as specialty courses, NITROX, Night Diving, Environmental Diving, Search and Recovery.

Contact these tour operators for specials at Sakatia Lodge.

SPEAR FISHING

Unusual Destinations is a specialist tour operator which has been in operation for 16 years. Madagascar is their number one destination – book with them for a hassle free holiday. Tel: 011 706 1991 Skype: ritabachmann rita@unusualdestinations.com

Orca Sakatia, situated within Sakatia Lodge, is a dive centre focused on Apnea, i.e. spearfishing and free diving. Run by South African Craig Scott, he has moved to Madagascar after 17 years in the spearfishing market, to pursue his passion further. Orca Sakatia is able to supply the blue water hunter with all the necessary equipment, but divers are welcome to bring their own. All diving is carried out off a 10m purpose-built boat capable of getting hunters to the offshore reefs in comfort. Craig also offers free diving training and certification. Orca Sakatia believes in sustainable and responsible spearfishing practices and only targets the pelagic species. Tel: 00261 32 410 5224 Email – craig@orca.co.za

Origin Tours & Safaris make ordinary holidays extraordinary and ensure that holidays suit your wallet too. Tel: 0 1 856 5851/ 5249 Skype name: kn130578 Email: Info@origintours.co.za , reservations@origintours.co.za

Contact Vidette Snyman to arrange your trip. Cell: 082 695 4421 Email: info@ylangtravels.co.za Skype: ylangtravels

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BALLI BALI 66

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A group of students packed their surfboards and baggies and went to Bali in search of the perfect wave. Matthew Lewthwaite captured the adventure and found Bali to be about barrels, bintangs and beautiful babes. Leaving King Shaka International Airport early on a Wednesday morning we headed for Indonesia in high spirits and with huge expectations only to travel for a tedious two days after interchanging flights and long waiting times, then to arrive to a perfect 4-6 feet lefthander with 30 humans in the water and jetlagged off our faces. This however, did not dampen our spirits in the slightest and within a few minutes of arriving the boys were unpacking surfboards, screwing in fins, and scuttling down the vertical cliff face, running like Hussain Bolt toward the ocean and not fearing the shallow reef. The aim of our expedition was to get world class waves - which we did. The waves were as hollow as a 3 dimensional cube and as long as the Comrades Marathon. The chaps surfed until the sun had vanished then stumbled over the reef in total darkness, frothing at the mouth for an ice cold Bintang – the local beer. This was surreal; it’s what dreams are made of. What awaited us was the best sleep of our lives due to total exhaustion. We woke the following day to a ridiculously glamorous sunrise and another perfect day in Bali. With waves beyond this universe, we surfed the entire day squeezing in a meal when we could. The crowds in the water were a little tough with some aggressive Aussies, but smiles were still stretched from ear to ear as everyone was still scoring the waves of their lives and we were in our element.

The next few days the swell dropped off and the ocean went as flat as the punctured scooter tire we got later that day. With palm trees slowly dancing around our resort we decided to hire scooters for next to nothing, around R30 per person per day, and venture around the island. No driver’s licence required.

We headed into the main town Kuta to do some shopping on the longest street I’ve ever seen. Driving there was as ‘hairy as the monkeys’ we saw at the sacred monkey temple where the cheeky critters thieved

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our bananas. The lack of road rules blew my mind as families of four piled on scooters overtook us on the wrong side of the road as well being on the pavement simultaneously. My best was a guy driving a scooter and sending a text at the same time, with a load of passengers. The locals were extremely friendly but they will also try to swindle you out of every penny you own all claiming to have the cheapest prices in Bali. After our many Bali bargaining techniques were tried and tested, we manoeuvred our way back to the spot we were staying at to chill by the pool and have lunch. The one guy in our group, James, opted to have a massage on the beach. We were staying at Bingin on the Bukit Peninsula, on the south west region of

WILDSIDE Fact Tracker

Ballistic Bali The best months are from April to September with the prime season being June, July and August because of the offshore winds and consistent swell. Early and late season is best to avoid the crowds. Out of season (October – March), one finds waves on the south eastern and eastern side of the island as the winds change and then blow offshore in these areas. This is the rainy season but it is still

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Bali because of the world-class surf breaks including the famous Uluwatu, alo Padang – Padang, Dreamlands and Balangan. That night my friend Conrad got maliciously attacked by mosquitoes the size of small birds and started looking like a dart board. So, with no chance of sleep a communal decision led us to a night out on the town.

Walking to the party spots was somewhat different. Locals offer tourists all sorts of goods. The father in the group of students was offered Viagra and my mate got offered a ‘banana massage’ from an elderly local woman which cracked us up immensely. The nightlife is epic, hence we went back with a vengeance for another dabble the next night. There were travellers from all

popular amongst the surfers. Expect a 10-hour flight from Jhb to either Kuala Lumpur on Malaysia Airlines or Singapore on Singapore Airlines. Then there is a further 3.5 hours flight from both of these hubs to Denpasar, Bali. Wildside’s trip was arranged by All Aboard Travel. Owned by Craig and Lorrin Jarvis, who both have provincial colours for surfing and extensive surf safari experience, they are able to give you excellent first hand advice. Craig has been in the surf industry for 22 years.

over the world, including beautiful babes from Switzerland, and there is such a good vibe in all the clubs and pubs. The food was great and a favourite was eating green curry out of fresh coconuts, but we were sceptical of the beef satays as rumour has it that it could be dog meat.

Our second to last day the swell picked up to draw to a close a magnificent and epic holiday. We surfed all day again stealing every last bit out of Bali we could. The ocean had delivered up such an awesome time. Our hearts were content. I now see why Bali is called the land of bread, milk and honey although I call it the land of barrels, Bintangs and beautiful babes.

Cost: All Aboard is offering a package which includes return airfare ex Jhb, all airport taxes, airport transfers, seven nights accommodation and breakfast daily for R7990 pps. Note this includes airport taxes of R2 245 – many packages don’t include this. Email: all-aboard@vodamail.co.za Facebook: www.facebook.com/All. Aboard.Surf.Travel. Tel: 042 2940008. Twitter: twitter.com/all_aboard_surf

FROM

TOTAL SURFING FITNESS A fitness program specifically designed to improve your surfing fitness and flexibility makes a big difference. Surfing in Bali for over a week can be tiring and besides, the fitter you are the more enjoyable it is. It’s well worth contacting Clayton Beatty of Total Surfing Fitness www.TotalSurfingFitness.com

R7990

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Wi l d l a n d s Co n s e r v a t i o n Tr u s t

US$6.65 MILLION GRANT LAUNCHED IN KZN

US-BASED FUND, THE CRITICAL ECOSYSTEMS PARTNERSHIP FUND IS INJECTING US$6.65 MILLION INTO CONSERVATION EFFORTS IN KWAZULU-NATAL, EASTERN CAPE, MOZAMBIQUE AND SWAZILAND

initiative of the World Bank, l’Agence Française de Dévelopement, Conservation International, the Global Environment Facility, the Government of Japan, and the John D. and Catherine T. MacArthur Foundation. CEPF aims to provide strategic assistance to NGOs and other private sector partners to help conserve biodiversity hotspots.

Representatives from some of South Africa’s leading conservation NGO’s (non-government organizations) were recently hosted by members of the Wildlands Conservation Trust and the Critical Ecosystems Partnership Fund

‘Hotspots’ are the richest and most threatened reservoirs of plant and animal life on earth. Typically, these areas contain more than 1,500 endemic plant and animal species, yet the landscapes in these areas have been significantly transformed as a result of human actions. The Maputaland-Pondoland-Albany Biodiversity Hotspot (see Figure 1) is one of these regions, along with two others identi-

IN THE NEXT 5 YEARS. Wildlands Conservation Trust has been nominated to manage and co-ordinate the grant.

BY SIMONE DALE

from agricultural and industrial development, mining, immense increases in human population densities and changes in local weather patterns as a result of climate change. Over the past two years CEPF have developed an ecosystem profile and investment strategy for the area. Wildlands will now lead the implementation of the investment which involves the management and selection of proposals, dissemination of funding, coordination and sharing of idea’s and building capacity and a shared vision for the region. The grant will be used to support a minimum of 40 civil society-run projects in the next 5 years with the aim of building capacity; strengthening the protection and manage-

Daniel Rothberg, CEPF Grant Director, said, “This investment brings unprecedented funding and exposure to the conservation of biodiversity and participation of civil society in the area.“ at a launch in Hilton, KwaZulu-Natal. Present were representatives from Conservation South Africa, the Botanical Society of South Africa, WWF-SA, Birdlife SA and WESSA. Also represented were conservation authorities from the Eastern Cape, Swaziland and KwaZulu-Natal and SANParks. The Critical Ecosystems Partnership Fund (CEPF) based in Washington DC is a joint

fied in South Africa (the Succulent Karroo and Cape Floristic regions), where CEPF have in the past provided grants. The region spans an area of nearly 275,000 km², stretching from Xai-Xai in Mozambique in the north, to Port Elizabeth in the south and is home to a number of critically endangered and threatened plant and animal species. The area is under increasing threat

ment of under-capacitated and emerging protected areas; expanding and linking conservation areas and restoring ecosystem functioning. Daniel Rothberg, CEPF Grant Director, said, “This investment brings unprecedented funding and exposure to the conservation of biodiversity and participation of civil society in the area”. Rothberg also highlighted the

Wildlands Conservation Trusts' vision is to be a centre of excellence for the restoration and conservation of natural

Spor t for the

Co n s e r v a t i o n o f o u r Wi l d H e r i t a g e

importance of building capacity and developing partnerships between well-established civil society organisations and smaller, developing groups, “so that at the end of the 5 years these [smaller] organisations will be better off, and better able to do their work.” Dr Roelie Kloppers, Programme Manager for Wildlands, said: “We are extremely excited about this amazing opportunity to work with CEPF in developing civil society’s role in conservation in the Hotspot. We are looking forward to closer ties with CEPF and its donors over the next 5 years and hope to leave a lasting positive impact on the biodiversity and the people living in these areas”. The Wildlands Conservation Trust has with a 20 year history in biodiversity conservation with a focus on community participation.

Above: Dan Rothberg, Grant Director, Critical Ecosystem Partnership Fund, Dr Andrew Venter, CEO, Wildlands Conservation Trust and Dr Roelie Kloppers, Programme Manager, Wildlands Conservation Trust at the launch of a US$6.65 million grant injecting funds into conservation efforts in KwaZulu-Natal, Eastern Cape, Mozambique and Swaziland in the next 5 years.

A first call for proposals for grants was released in September. Interested non-governmental organisations, community groups, private enterprises, and other civil society applicants may apply for funding.

HOW TO APPLY FOR A GRANT

Interested parties should visit www.wildlands. co.za/MPAH for more information and contact the Wildlands Regional Implementation Team on cepf-rit@wildlands.co.za or contact Dr Roelie Kloppers on 033 343 6380.

ecosystems through the development of innovative socio-economic partnerships.

www.wildlands.co.za

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ATLAS OF DIVE SITES OF SOUTH AFRICA & MOZAMBIQUE

Vilanculos and the Bazaruto Archipelago

the corner | ray alley | brindle bass ridge | allan’s realm | amphitheatre camel hump | twelve mile reef | turtle ridge | manta ray reef | rainbow runner aquarium | greek temple | ponta dundo | five mile reef The pristine reefs of the Bazaruto National Park offer superb diving, both from Vilanculos on the mainland and from the exclusive island lodges. One of the largest marine parks in Africa and protected since 1971, the 1400km2 park consists of five islands: Bazaruto (the largest), Benguerra, Magaruque, Santa Carolina (or Paradise Island) and tiny, uninhabited Bangue. They’re real Robinson Crusoe-style deserted island escapes with high dunes covered in colourful sprawling creepers, fresh water, crocodile-infested lakes, swaying palm trees and sandy beaches littered with pansy shells and lapped by clear, intense blue water. As you cruise around, turtles swim over to check you out and humpback and spinner dolphins frolic in the swell. And divers and snorkellers who put their heads into the water are treated to an amazing display of colourful corals, diverse tropical fish and big pelagics such as manta rays. The waters of the archipelago are home to all five marine turtle species of the western Indian Ocean, several dolphin species (including striped and Fraser’s dolphin that are predominantly found

shaen adey

offshore but occasionally venture inshore to the archipelago), as well as the elusive dugong.

2 4 km

BEACH

Graaff's Pool

2 miles

- 98ft

- 66ft

BAY

30m

20m

- 49ft

DRIVE

15m

KLOOF

BAY

Gardens

Glen Beach Camps Bay

Oudekraal

Bakoven

Vredehoek

PAROW M16

VICTORIA

Stellenbosch

CAPE TOWN INT. AIRPORT

R44

Percy’s Hole

Gordon's Bay

Pringle Bay The Point Rooiels

M41

VE R AT R I

NS CH SP

SIMON

100m - 328ft

Tokai

STEL

TOKAI

VAN DER

VICTORIA

M42

Marina da Gama

Silvermine Nature Reserve

50m

O EK

- 164ft

Sun Valley

Pringle Bay M32

Smits Wrecks Batsata Maze

KEY TOP SITE OTHER SITE BOAT ENTRY & ROUTE SHORE ENTRY DIVE AREA LIGHTHOUSE

Neptune's Corner

MAIN

Kalk Clovelly Bay

R310

Sunrise Beach ROYAL East Beach West Beach False Bay

BOYES

- 49ft 15m 66ft 20m 98ft 30m

San Michel OR

SPINE

See legend on page 190

Zandvlei Bird Sanctuary

Muizenberg

Noordhoek Lagoon (Tidal)

TO KLEINMOND

Pringle Bay

MILITARY STEENBERG

Lakeside

CHAPMAN'S PEAK

Lagoon (Tidal)

Buffels

2 km 1 mile

0 M3

Westlake

BOYES

TO NOORDHOEK

Silvermine Nature Reserve Silvermine Dam

Ratelklip

Chapman's Bay

Noordhoek Beach Klein Slangkop Point

- 49ft 15m - 66ft 20m - 98ft 30m 50m - 164ft

AK PE

Table Mountain National Park

R44

MILE

'S AN AP M

TO CLIFTON

Hout Bay

Chapman's Point

Hout Bay

Roman Rock

False Bay

Sillery LADIES

VICTORIA

Hout Bay Harbour

Duiker Island

THIS AREA IN DETAIL

Hout Bay

Duiker Island

Tafelberg Reef

Rooiels

Steenbras Rock

CONSTANTIA

BAY HOUT

HOUT BAY MAIN

Zeek oevlei

30m

- 98ft

20m - 66ft 15m - 49ft

R102

AVONWOOD

Somerset West False Bay

AREA OF THIS INSET

Cape Point

Klaassensbosch

M63

Disa

Helgarda Estate

Duiker Point

Lui Bay

Sunset Rocks

Llandudno

REEF

Danger Beach

20-21

St James

PLACE OF INTEREST

Two Oceans Aquarium

cape peninsula and false bay 23

22 cape peninsula and false bay

Coral Gardens ± site 2 Open water Shore or boat

Star Walls is a stunning dive to the south of Maori Bay, about a tenminute ride from Hout Bay Harbour. It is relatively exposed, so is only diveable on low-swell days, usually in summer. After a good southeast blow, when the upwelled water is clean, visibility can be well over 20m. The wall starts at 8m and drops almost vertically down to 32m. It is the highest and longest known wall, extending for about 100m east-west, with another 50m on the southeast face. The top of the wall is covered with kelp and redbait pods, the walls themselves are thickly encrusted with invertebrate life, and overhangs and vertical cracks provide microhabitats for more fragile creatures. The bottom of the wall ends in sand and scattered boulders. The invertebrate life is varied and often well camouﬂaged, like the shaggy sponge crabs, sumo crabs and cuttleﬁsh. Basket stars, grey fan hydroids, pink noble

 Maximum depth – 19m ‹€ Average depth – 10m Á Map reference – page 18 B2 Coral Gardens is distinguished by superb topography and extraordinary biodiversity. It is an extensive dive site of jumbled granite boulders, caves and overhangs on the Atlantic side of the Cape Peninsula. It can be dived from the shore after a short

climb over boulders from the Oudekraal parking lot south of the Twelve Apostles Hotel, or after a 14km boat ride from Hout Bay Harbour or Oceana Power Boat Club. It’s best to dive this site after a southeast wind in summer when the water will be clear but cold. Check swell conditions before setting off. From the shore, it’s a short snorkel through kelp and a sunshot descent through flickering crowds of hottentot and kelp stipes to the brilliantly coloured reefs and rock cathedrals below. Fragile bryozoans and fan hydroids jostle for space among acid yellow sponges, blue and orange anemones, as well as crowds of the pink noble coral after which the site is named. Cowled nudibranchs sweep their pale hoods through the water in search of edible prey. Basket stars and klipfish stud the walls, while cuttlefish and octopus manage to evade the notice of all but the sharp-eyed. Caves, some containing air pockets, are treasure houses of the more fragile and elusive animals. Bring a torch. This site can be dived by open-water divers, but the density of the reef life and its fragility require that divers have good buoyancy control so as not to damage any reef animals.

geoff spiby

Castle Rocks/Pyramid Rock ± site 3 Open water

Shore or boat

geoff spiby ©

Advanced Boat launch  Maximum depth – 40m ‹€ Average depth – 33m Á Map reference – page 50 H2

Open water

Other dive sites

barry coleman

The Nebo ± site 9 Advanced Boat launch  Maximum depth – 26m ‹€ Average depth – 18m Á Map reference – page 49 C4 Wrecked in 1884, the Nebo lies off the landward (northwestern) edge of the Shoal. The wreck, which lies in two parts, is home to turtles and an abundance of pelagic and reef ﬁsh, including the rare harlequin goldie, but visibility is not usually as good as on the Produce. Chunnel ± site 10 Open water Boat launch  Maximum depth – 17m ‹€ Average depth – 12m Á Map reference – page 49 D4 An awesome dive with loads of overhangs, Chunnel, directly inshore from Raggies Cave, is an easy, shallow dive with a channel through which sharks cruise in season. Upwelling of plankton in the area means that there’s also a good chance of sighting manta rays, and reef ﬁsh are there in numbers. Outside shark

barry coleman

Boat launch  Maximum depth – 26m ‹€ Average depth – 15m Á Map reference – page 21 G3 This is a large dive site to the north of Smitswinkel Bay, best dived in winter after a northwest wind. The northern end of

south coast – aliwal shoal, landers and protea banks 57

as 200 have been seen on one dive – so there are strict codes of conduct. The dive starts at a large, open-topped cave which is usually full of raggies. Then you swim past a tunnel – or through it if it is shark-free – past coral gardens to a second opentopped cave with lots of chambers where the raggies like to rest and where, during late spring and early summer, you’ll often see large shoals of hammerhead sharks overhead. Remember also that sharks are not the sole attraction. I was so obsessed with the likelihood of shark interaction on my ﬁrst dive there that it was only when I’d snapped 20 images of the ﬁrst shark I spotted that I realised it had black patches on its side and was in fact a massive potato bass! Enjoy the sharks, but try also to look around and appreciate the reef.

Best dived in the winter months (June to November) when the raggies congregate on the reef to mate, this rates as one of the most exciting shark dives in the world. A deep reef some 7.5km out in the open ocean, this is a site for experienced, disciplined divers with a taste for adventure. The brieﬁng gets the heart beating. It’s not just the remoteness, current and other dangers of diving this site; you are looking for sharks – as many

above: broad-nosed sevengill cowshark (notorynchus cepedianus) – pyramid rock

Partridge Point ± site 4

 Maximum depth – 18m ‹€ Average depth – 10m Á Map reference – page 21 F3 This is a large dive site, just south of Miller’s Point, and what you see depends on where in the dive site you go. Pyramid Rock is at the northern end of the complex and is mainly dived for the cowsharks. These elegant animals, which can grow as big as 3.5m, circle the

56 south coast – aliwal shoal, landers and protea banks Protea Banks Northern Pinnacles ± site 8

alleys of the kelp forest surrounding the rock and will approach divers quite closely. They are temperate water coastal animals which eat fishes and crustaceans and are known to pack-hunt seals. They give birth to 60–104 pups per litter at a birth size of about 50cm. It’s an amazing experience to watch them gently glide through the water. The southern end of the complex consists of jumbled granite boulders with caves, swim-throughs and gullies, all heavily encrusted with invertebrate life. Expect to see Cape urchins, huge anemones, rock crabs, feather stars and red-chested sea cucumbers, along with many species of nudibranchs. Cuttlefish float over the sand and octopus can be spotted, given away by the piles of discarded mussel shells outside their lairs. This site is best dived in winter, when False Bay is flat, and is usually a fishy dive. Romans, hottentot, strepies, juvenile red steenbras and janbruin can all be seen, as well as pyjama catsharks and puffadder shysharks. Klipfish, triplefins and blennies lurk on the reefs. You might see spotted gully sharks in the overhangs, and whales in winter. geoff spiby

Boat launch

season it’s still an impressive dive on which you’ll probably see potato bass and, if you’re lucky, pineapple fish – a small, yellow, spiny critter with a dazzling smile and a skin pattern that resembles that of a pineapple. The site is normally dived on a north-south current, starting at the south part of North Sands where you’ll often see dolphins. Inside Edge ± site 11 Open water Boat launch  Maximum depth – 22m ‹€ Average depth – 15m Á Map reference – page 49 D4 On the inner, sheltered side of the Shoal, this site consists of a stepped series of ledges and overhangs in which you’ll find scorpionfish, stonefish, lionfish, octopus, boxfish and whitemouth (guinea fowl) moray eels as well as a variety of nudibranchs. Check the sandy patches for rays – and in summer you might even see tiger sharks in mid-water off the southern section of the reef. Umzimai Wall ± site 12 Advanced Boat launch  Maximum depth – 39m ‹€ Average depth – 23m Á Map reference – page 49 D4 A 20m high wall adorned with corals and alive with tropical fish is the highlight of this littledived site in the southern section of Landers Reef. Swim-throughs, big gullies, ledges and

barry coleman

Advanced  Maximum depth – 32m ‹€ Average depth – 20m Á Map reference – page 18 C1

corals, dreadlocks hydroids, multihued anemones and sponges make the site vivid with colour. It’s nudibranch wallpaper for the most part: Mandela’s nudibranchs, candy nudibranchs, gas flames, silvertips and black nudibranchs can all be seen in profusion here, as can the rare darktoothed cowrie. Klipfish peer out from crevices, along with redfingers and janbruins, and safety stops are usually enlivened by visiting seals. The trick with diving this site is not to overstay bottom time: there is so much to see it’s easy to forget how deep you are.

Star Walls ± site 1

Top sites Diving in Cape Town is very different from the more usual tropical dive destinations, but its pleasures are many and varied. For more detailed information about Cape Peninsula and False Bay dive sites, go to: http://wikitravel.org/en/Diving_the_Cape_ Peninsula_and_False_Bay

below: protea banks bottom: umzimai wall

Church Hill Estate

Townsend Estate VOORTREKKER

TO GORDON’S BAY

CAPE TOWN Hout Bay Simon's Town

Bishopscourt

Cecilia State Forest Sunset Rocks

Llandudno Sandy Bay

Oude Schip

Star Walls SITE 1

Llandudno Bay

Sandy Bay

Oude Schip Duiker Point

above: star walls right: coral gardens

GOODWOOD

Bellville

Table Bay

M63

RHODES

BAY TO

HOUT

Wingfield

Llandudno Bay

Max 32m Average 20m

Coral Gardens 2 km 1 mile

Newlands Reservoir

Newlands Forest Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden

Twelve Apostles Hotel

Lui Bay

Coral Gardens SITE 2

Narrow Gap Pinnacle

Low Granite Outcrops and Sand Patches

0 0

ATLANTIC OCEAN

Star Walls

Salt River

TAFELBERG

Table Mountain National Park

Koeël Bay N

Swim-through Overhang

ALBERT

VICTORIA

DE WAAL

Camps Bay

Air Cave Pinnacle

Max 19m Average 10m

Star Walls

MARINE

CAPE TOWN Zonnebloem

CAMPS

HOUT

Overhangs

Bakoven Bay

ATLANTIC OCEAN

Tygerdal

MILNERTON

Shark and kelp dives in the Two Oceans Aquariumxxxxxxxxxxxx If you really want to get up close and personal with sharks, turtles and big gamefish there’s nothing to beat a dive in the I&J Predator Exhibit in the Two Oceans Aquarium. After a short briefing you drop into the two-million-litre glass-fronted tank as the big-eyed children and other visitors to the aquarium gawp at your bravery. This has to be the easiest dive in the Cape – where else can you dive with sharks with just a Discover Scuba qualification? There’s no surge, the visibility is great, the water is (relatively) warm and there’s a wonderful selection of predatory fish all around you. Cheeky turtles come up to check you out, and after the initial adrenalin rush you soon find yourself comfortable with and intrigued by the ragged-tooth sharks. Advanced divers also have the option of feeding the fish and checking out the marine life in the surging kelp forest tank. The 800-litre tank is home to galjoen (the national fish) as well as gully sharks, white stumpnose, black and white musselcracker, also rock lobsters and perlemoen – and if you’re really lucky you might even spot a rockhopper or African penguin which has been released into the kelp forest for a swim. Although it doesn’t have quite the same kudos as diving in the predator tank, it’s a fascinating insight into the marine life of the Cape West Coast.

Foreshore

Tamboerskloof

Clifton Clifton Beach

DE LA REY

CAPE TOWN

Fresnaye

Bantry Bay

Two Oceans Aquarium

HIGH LEVEL

Sea Point Saunders Rocks

3 NOTE:

BEACH

MAIN

0 0

Table Bay ay

Mouille Point Green Point

Green Point Three Anchor Bay

Coral Gardens

SOUTH AFRICA

ADDERLEY

VICTORIA

ion

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caves make for interesting exploration, and photogenic specimens include cute little toby puffers and boxﬁsh. Protea Banks Southern Pinnacles ± site 13 Advanced Boat launch  Maximum depth – 40m ‹€ Average depth – 30m Á Map reference – page 51 F4 It was the Zambezi sharks (bull sharks) that initially put Protea Banks on the world dive site map, and the high chance of sighting these fearsome-looking predators on the reef between October and May attracts divers from all over the world. Blacktip sharks are seen year-round while scalloped and great hammerhead sharks make an appearance at the end of the season, making this a top site for shark lovers.

above: nebo wreck

Area Speciﬁcs Best time to go

This is a year-round destination but dive conditions are best during the dry season from May to September (the winter months).

Water temperatures

Range from 16°C in winter to around 25°C in summer.

Dive conditions The South Coast generally enjoys good visibility – ranging from 5m to 40m. Launching, in rigid inﬂatable boats, is from Umkomaas (for Aliwal Shoal – either from the river mouth or from the beach depending on tide and conditions), from Rocky Bay (Landers Reef) or from Shelley Beach (Protea Banks). Accessing these sites sometimes involves an exciting ride through the surf. Recommended A 5mm wet suit is more than adequate in summer – add a hood/chicken vest, booties and gloves gear or go for a semi-dry or dry suit in the chillier winter months.

es © geoff

spiby

pot-hole urchin (Stomopneustes variolaris) å size: 10cm. description: A spherical urchin with sturdy tapering spines. Body dark; spines pale, mounted on ball and socket joints. natural history: Found on shallow tropical reefs. Feeds on seaweeds and algae. Stout spines can erode corals.

spiby

Cape urchin (Parechinus angulosus) ç size: 6cm. description: Spherical body covered with dense spines which can be purple, green or red. natural history: Common on rocky shores and reefs down to 98m. Grazes on kelp and other algae. Preyed on by West Coast rock lobsters. May be seen using shells as a sunshade.

size: Up to 5cm. description: A yellow cone-shaped snail. Shell with a rounded shoulder, ‘steps’ between whorls and a narrow opening. Shell colour ranges from yellow to brown, variably marked in streaks and blotches. natural history: Found down to 50m. Predatory: mantle modiﬁed to form a harpoon which injects a neurotoxin. similar species: The textile cone (Conus textile) has a pale shell patterned with orange patches, outlined in brown. The geography cone (Conus geographus) has ridges running down the shell, which is pale and covered with reddish-brown patterning. Both are poisonous to humans and can be fatal.

Nudibranchs

variable neon slug (Nembrotha kubaryana) ç

spiby © geoff

size: Up to 12cm. description: A large, black-bodied nudibranch, variably patterned. Usually striped or dotted in green with vivid orange rhinophores and mouth border; foot also orange outlined. Some with orange spots. natural history: Feeds on colonial sea squirts, absorbing their defensive chemicals and re-using them.

Spanish dancer (Hexabranchus sanguineus) é

tiger cowrie (Cypraea tigris) é

taylor

size: 10cm. description: A large, beautiful cowrie, plump pale shell variably marked with dark to tawny splotches and blobs. The mantle has many protrusions, probably to aid with camouﬂage. natural history: Found from 5–40m, nocturnal. Feeds on soft corals, anemones, sponges, starﬁsh and urchins. Juveniles eat algae and detritus. Females sit on eggs until the larvae hatch.

size: May reach 40cm. description: A very large nudibranch which may be orange, red or brown, with red mottling. Large gill rosette surrounds anus. Rhinophores and gills orange. natural history: Found down to 40m. Feeds on sponges, worms, sea squirts and marine snails. Swims by undulating body margin. Often seen with a commensal shrimp, Periclimenes imperator.

zsilavecz

four-coloured chromodorid (Chromodoris africana) è

egg cowrie (Ovula ovum) è size: Up to 8cm. description: A plump, white-shelled snail with a velvety black mantle, spotted with white or yellow; mantle usually completely covers the shell. natural history: Found from 12–20m. Feeds on soft corals and sponges. Eggs laid in cases on reefs; the female may guard them before hatching.

A map cowrie (Leporicypraea mappa), its protective mantle half covering its shell ê

size: Up to 7.5cm. description: A black, smooth-bodied nudibranch, with two pale blue lines running down the back, which has a white rim and an orange margin. Gills and rhinophores yellow to orange. natural history: Feeds on sponges.

taylor

spiby

Beautifully demonstrating the reason for its name, a spanish dancer swims é

spiby © geoff

SOUTH AFRICA & MOZAMBIQUE

Nudibranchs are the most numerous of the sea slugs. They are shell-less molluscs which are often vividly patterned and coloured to warn off predators. Many are toxic, most from acquiring toxins from prey species. Their sensory tentacles are called rhinophores. They are hermaphrodites which leave their eggs ribbons on reefs to hatch into larvae.

Molluscs The molluscs include chitons (armadillo snails), snails and slugs, cephalopods such as octopus and squid, and bivalves like mussels and clams. They are soft-bodied. Some, like bivalves, snails and chitons, have hard protective shells. The slugs are often beautifully and vividly coloured to advertise their protective toxicity. Cephalopods usually protect themselves through camouﬂage, being able to change both their skin colour and texture.

Marine snails These animals all have a hard, protective spiral shell, produced by the mantle, and a distinct head with tentacles and a pair of eyes. They have a large foot for locomotion and their mouths have a rasping tongue for feeding. The sexes are usually separate and fertilisation is usually external. Eggs are either laid on a surface or left to ﬂoat in the plankton.

spiby

Algoa cone (Conus algoensis) å

Urchins Urchins are the most spiny of all the echinoderms, are armoured in a tough shell or test, and are usually spherical. The mouth is usually on the underside of the animal, with the anus uppermost. Tubefeet in ﬁve rows on the underside are used for locomotion, while tiny pincers on stalks defend the animals from predators or settling organisms.

781770 262287

Cover photograph by Geoff Spiby

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marine species identiﬁcation guide 175

174 marine species identiﬁcation guide

ATLAS OF

157 detailed dive site descriptions 50 pages of detailed topside & underwater maps Over 150 marine species identified | Over 300 colour photographs

Map Studio Atlas of dive sites of South Africa and Mozambique Authored by Fiona McIntosh with Marine Species Identification Guide by Georgina Jones, Map studio’ introduces the Atlas of Dive Sites of South Africa & Mozambique. With topics listed as: Detailed coverage of top dive sites for each diving region; Dive culture and responsible diving; Treatment of injured divers and recompression chamber policy and Caring for the marine environment. Concise info boxes featuring: Difficulty rating, Type of access (Shore or boat), Maximum and average depths, Reference to locate the dive site on the map. This is a ‘must take along book’.

Awesome Tools – Leatherman® YOU SHOULD NEVER SACRIFICE FUNCTION The handy Style CS is one unique clip-on multi-tool. With spring-action scissors, a file, knife, tweezers, bottle opener and mini-screwdriver, you’ll never be without your most necessary tools. Fits in a pocket or clips on your pack or bag for easy portability. So stylish it’s almost a shame it fits so easily in your pocket. Suggested retail: R 299

WILDSIDE 4of4 2010

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Wind Bag

by David Muirhead

Beastly Cures Far from being a quick fix, many quack remedies are potentially lethal, not so much for the idiots who swallow them as for the endangered animals and plants that unwillingly provide the ingredients. As a public service Windbag offers readers a review of some uncommon ailments, and explodes myths about popular cures.

Nobonus Syndrome Corporatus greedentia

Scrambled Cape Parrot eggs sprinkled with powdered rhino horn is often touted as a sure fire cure for Nobonus Syndrome. This malady primarily affects the CEOs and board members of large corporations and public utilities, though the debilitating effects can be passed on to mistresses and Ferrari dealerships. The only known symptom is a bonus cheque with less than six zeros on it. Taken regularly it is claimed that the egg and rhino mixture actually provides immunity to Nobonus, even in the event that a corporation announces losses of R1 billion at the end of the financial year. Intensive research is currently underway, generously funded by the World Bank and other leading financial institutions, to find a permanent cure for Nobonus. The sense of urgency is somewhat puzzling given that there has been no known outbreak of the disease in over fifty years. In the meantime, if it does occur, passing the buck and the wholesale sacking of employees are proven methods of ameliorating symptoms.

IP Infantilius politica Principal symptoms are uncontrollable stamping of the feet, screaming at people with a different opinion and an irresistible urge to hide large amounts of money. IP usually afflicts overweight politicians and is a source

of considerable anguish for their bodyguards and chauffeurs. Many believe that powdered Oryx horn mixed with ten year old Scotch whiskey (hold the soda) is beneficial. Like many folk remedies, this is half right and, ipso facto, half wrong. It is in fact Oryx droppings that provide the essential ingredient. This acts as a powerful selfregenerating laxative; with any luck the sufferer then spends the rest of his or her life in the toilet and doesn’t bother anybody anymore.

treat patients is to feed them roasted riverine rabbit stuffed with minced perlemoen. There is no evidence that this bestows the slightest benefit and may in fact exacerbate the problem. The medical establishment has thus far taken little notice of TB despite mounting evidence that the disease is increasingly prevalent in their own profession.

Hilton’s Disease

Blogger internetitus

Parisius Buttpainius Symptoms include being absent from the front page of the tabloids for over four days, and inexplicably spending more than six minutes at a top notch social soiree before going on to the next one. Boiling the tonsils of a blue whale in a ten gallon cauldron of seawater laced with five kilos of cocaine produces a mixture which is said to provide an instant cure, even if it does confuse imperial with metric measures. Known side effects include heiress loss and twelve months on probation. Medical practitioners dismiss this so-called remedy as poppycock, pointing out that taking two aspirins and going to bed with an A List film star is a scientifically researched and proven method of curing the malady.

Top billiasses Not to be confused with the real disease with the same initials, the onset of this infection usually manifests as an overblown ego which can be extremely unsightly. Sufferers soon lapse into delusions of grandeur and compulsively start showing off their enormous houses on TV. Primitive peoples in isolated communities such as Houghton and Bishop’s Court believe the only way to

Myblog Disease

This virulent disease is believed to have originated on the campuses of American universities, and has the potential, if unchecked, to bore half the world’s population to death within a single generation. Sufferers manifest a variety of symptoms in the early stages, including writing about what they had for breakfast, or indeed whether they even had breakfast, and posting pictures of their cat. As the disease progresses, poetry appears and is soon followed by quasi philosophical ramblings of acute banality. One suggested folk remedy is to extract three hairs from a warthog’s posterior and use this to make a medicinal necklace. In this rare instance, the medical fraternity unanimously concurs that the method is undoubtedly efficacious. If a warthog is not available, hairs from the backside of an elephant, a hippopotamus or even a Bengal tiger will serve the purpose just as well. Doctors stress, however, that to be fully effective the hairs must be plucked from a live animal, preferably one in a bad mood, by the patients themselves. If you have any questions, or have come out in an itchy rash since reading this article, Please visit our website: www.whatwasthatallabout.com.

4of4 2010 WILDSIDE

KwaZulu-Natal

Elephant Coast / Zululand

Free State LALA NATHI GUEST HOUSE

Field Guide & Nature Training

La La Nathi is the ideal stopover choice, situated on the N3 just outside the historic town of Harrismith in the Eastern Free State Highlands and a haven of peace for the weary traveller. The Drakensberg mountains, Clarens, and Golden Gate are within easy reach.

Creating awareness trough Wilderness info@bhejanenaturetraining.com

Tel: 058 623 0282 • Email: lalanati@internext.co.za • www.lalanathi.co.za

WILDSIDE

Professional Field Guide (6 m) FGASA Level 1 (30 days) FGASA Trails Guide (30 days) Next Level 1 course Starts 5 October ‘09

TRAVEL & ADVENTURE GUIDE

THE PLACE TO BE FOUND

Now operating from a new unfenced camp in the Thanda Private Game Reserve, KZN

Contact Tora Roberts to advertise in the Free State Guide: Cell: 082 376 9115 Fax: 086 671 1505 Email: tora@wildsidesa.co.za

www.bhejanenaturetraining.com Contact:

083 726 3826

Muzi Pan Canoe Adventures

Community based accredited canoe adventure guides on Muzi Pan

Tel: Themba 073 161 8189

WILDSIDE TRAVEL & ADVENTURE GUIDE

THE PLACE TO BE FOUND

Contact Tora Roberts to advertise in the KwaZulu-Natal Elephant Coast Travel & Adventure Guide: Cell: 082 376 9115 Fax: 086 671 1505 Email: tora@wildsidesa.co.za 74

WILDSIDE 4of4 2010

Guided birding trails KOSI BAY Comfortable self catering lodge and luxury guesthouse set among tall trees in a quiet rural area close to beaches, lakes & game parks.

Tel. (035) 592 9728, 072 446 1525 www.kosi.co.za

THENDELE GIANT’S CASTLE DIDIMA HILLTOP MPILA NTSHONDWE MIDMAR MANTUMA

9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20. 21. 22. 23. 24. 25. 26. 27. 28. 29. 30. 31. 32. 33.

SODWANA ST LUCIA ESTUARY CAPE VIDAL UMLALAZI KOSI BAY AMATIGULU ORIBI GORGE INJISUTHI MONKS COWL KAMBERG LOTHENI COBHAM GARDEN CASTLE HIGHMOOR RUGGED GLEN MOUNT CURRIE NDUMO WEENEN SPIOENKOP PHONGOLO VERNON CROOKES CHARTERS CREEK FALSE BAY PARK CHELMSFORD WAGENDRIFT

Tennis Court

Restaurant / Tea Garden

Conferencing & Functions

Safari Tents

Group Accommodation wh260 4ma y2009

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8.

Information For details visit our website www.kznwildlife.com

Bookings

9 8

All reservations regarding accommodation or wilderness

trails should be made through

the Head Office of Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife in Pietermaritzburg.

30 10

Enquiries

Should you have any enquiries,

please contact our Reservations

3 17

office on +27(0) 33 845 1000

Alternativly, detailed information

22 18

is available on our website, be

advised that the information on this page is subject to change.

29 24

RESERVATIONS TEL: +27 (0) 33 845 1000

FAX +27 (0) 33 845 1001 or bookings@kznwildlife.com

Loyalty Clubs Tel +27 (0) 33 8451011/13 Fax 086 5058892

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