Wildside Mag 2011 Autumn by rod macleod

WILDSIDE

T H E

M A G A Z I NE

T H AT

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YOU

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E C O T R AV E L • O U T D O O R A D V E N T U R E • C O N S E R VAT I O N

Spa in a Cave

UNIQUE TRAVEL

NIKON WINNER

AUTUMN R21.95

Save our Oceans

Luxury Hotels

GAME Reserves

Berg Resort

Perspective Become a warrior for our oceans. Marine conservation is vital because we more often than not can’t see the destruction. You can play an active role in the prevention of this destruction. The easiest way is to become part of the South African Sustainable Seafood Initiative, SASSI. Details in this edition. Exert pressure on restaurants by asking questions about seafood. Report restaurants that sell illegal seafood so that there is no market for this and report suspicious catching. People often feel that their efforts will not result in change. It does. See in this edition how a restaurant owner was found guilty in a court of law and heavily fined.

Wildside Vol 11 No 1 of 4 2011 Autumn Edition

Editor Rod MacLeod – Cell: 082 782 3150 E-mail:rod@wildsidesa.co.za

MANAGING EDITOR Jennifer Crawford – Cell: 082 329 1739 E-mail: editor@wildsidesa.co.za

EDITORIAL All requests, submissions, including letters: editor@wildsidesa.co.za

Advertising Sales Tora Roberts – Tel: 031 767 1512 Cell: 082 376 9115 – Fax: 086 6711 505 E-mail: tora@wildsidesa.co.za

Production Editorial Offices Wildside Publishing PO Box 2292, Prestondale, 4021 KZN

There is much beauty in nature to enjoy and we explored two impressive river valleys – the Tugela and the Umkomaas, visited two protected areas namely Hluhluwe-Imfolozi and Didima. There are several more places covered in this edition in various price brackets coupled with a variety of activities for you and yours. The only difficulty is choosing your holiday spot.

Nkosi sikelela iAfrica

Contributors

Rod MacLeod Rod applies his professional photographer’s eye to the spread on the Hilltop Camp at Hluhluwe-Imfolozi. You will find many of his photographs throughout Wildside while his uncompromising design standards ensures that Wildside is set apart in its visual quality.

Jennifer Crawford Exploring accommodation in two river valleys, Tugela and Umkomaas, were the assignments set for Jennifer who found unique establishments in valleys with immense beauty and an untamed quality. She wound her way down between cliffs for yet another assignment, but this time to the edge of the sea in Llandudno.

Karen Allen Karen has a degree in nature conservation specialising in marine and coastal management and spatial planning for protected areas. Karen has a passion for marine conservation and compiled an article on the status of the only viable population of dugong providing staggering statistics that should make all of us sit up and take notice.

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Lisa Kohler

www.wildsidesa.co.za

The Hilltop Camp in Hluhluwe-Imfolozi was the destination for a weekend escape for Lisa and her family. Lisa always brings much texture to her writing style so that you, the reader get a real feel for the offering as is the case in this feature spread.

Publishers Wildside Publishing cc

Printers CTP, Cape Town

Peter Bendheim

DistributION

Peter is a professional photographer and writer and headed out to Didima for a story on this ‘Berg resort. Peter’s photographs have featured in publications such as National Geographic Traveller and his work is part of the permanent collection of the Durban Art Gallery.

RNA Cover image: A view onto the pea green coloured acacia in the Tugela River Valley at the unique Zingela Safari and River Company. See inside for full story. Wildside magazine, logo, Wildside Travel and brand ownership rests with Wildside Publishing cc. Copyrights for material produced in this magazine belong to Wildside Publishing. All rights are reserved and no material from this magazine may be reproduced by any means without the written consent of the publishers. The views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the Publishers nor of KZN Wildlife. Readers who follow advice, expressed or implied, on activities and accommodation do so entirely at their own risk. All competition winners will be announced in Wildside only. Winners are requested to contact the managing editor to claim their prize.

James Hallett An avid trail runner at heart, James is the founder of Go Trail magazine, an online publication dedicated to trail running and in this edition writes to this fast growing sport.

Eddie Crawford Wildside photographer Eddie Crawford is a land surveyor for the greater part of his time, but is a fervent outdoors individual giving him the opportunity to capture a variety of images including the cover of this edition whilst on assignment at Zingela in this edition.

David Murihead

www.wildsidesa.co.za

Published author of several books, David compiles Windbag and if want to be entertained with witty and hilarious commentary with an undercurrent of social commentary flick to the back right away.

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Above: iSimangaliso Wetland Park

Wildside Nikon Africa Photographic Competition

The winner of the Wildside Nikon Africa Photographic competition has been chosen, and he is Dave Pusey. His winning photograph was selected from more than 1000 entrants with the majority being of a particularly high standard said the judge, Roger de la Harpe.

Elephant Coast The Elephant Coast offers a large diversity of activity, adventure and accommodation. In this special feature spread you will find good accommodation at Hluhluwe-Imfoloziâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Hilltop Camp amongst numerous other options to be found in articles and adverts in this edition.

iSimangaliso Wetland Park This legendary area has incomparable biodiversity, a rich culture, and a smorgasboard of leisure and outdoor activities. In this special focus on the region you will gain greater insight into the history and status of the region with also highlighted areas to visit.

28 Tembe Masizwane Lodge

A new lodge in Norther KwaZulu-Natal has good accommodation, reasonable rates and its position means that you can access a range of activities.

PG8

2011 Wildside Nikon Africa Photographic Competition winner revealed

THE MAGAZINE THAT TAKES YOU THERE

Hilltop Camp at Hluhluwe iMfolozi

Rooms with a view - Didima

Zingela

Peter Bendheim discovers that you can head out to the â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Berg and enjoy sheer luxury in a place that you also have the choice to enjoy a variety of strenuous hikes.

Zingela Safari and River Company was the destination and Wildside went to discover a pretty unique set up that is out of the ordinary and the overall experience is rather out of this world. Good and cheap accommodation options too.

Duma Manzi There is a new, and perhaps one of the most unique spas, at Duma Manzi. With a rapidly developed reputation for their well appointed lodge in a unique setting, the spa sees Duma Manzi becoming a true wellness and wildlife retreat.

Luxurious boutique hotels and lodges Wildside brings you a snapshot spread of luxurious boutique hotels and lodges for the discerning traveller that likes all the trimmings to enhance his stay, while many of the places also offer experiences and adventure in nature..

WIN A WEEKEND FOR TWO AT THE NEW TEMBE MASIZWANE LODGE This fantastic prize is brought to you by Tembe Masizwane Lodge and Wildside and is for two people sharing for two nights â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Friday and Saturday inclusive of all meals and two game drives per day. All beverages and other excursions are excluded. To enter visit www.wildsidesa.co.za and stand a chance to win a trip to this unique lodge situated in a beautiful sand forest in Northern KwaZulu-Natal alongside the renowned Tembe Elephant Park. Terms and conditions Only one entry per person. Full contact details are essential. Prize is valid for a period of 6 months and redeemable any time within the period. The winner must book his or her weekend in advance. All beverages and other excursions are excluded. Prize is not transferable and cannot be sold to another person - therefore only to be used by the winner of the competition.

My Story My Story is the page for what is really your story. Wildside invites you to share your experiences. It can be about a family trip to the bush, or a lone adventure to an island, a hike with friends, a special sighting, or about what you think of hunting, of places you stayed at, or good and perhaps not such good value in travel. It is after all, your story. Email your story to – editor@wildsidesa.co.za

Above: The dorsal scarring on dugongs is normal and many older animals exhibit these marks. Photographed by Tim Heusinger. Right: Dugong carcass photographed by Janneman Conradie, washed up on the beach after a gill net entanglement. The carcass was taken to the university in Maputo for analysis.

Demise of the Dugong? Karen Allen has worked throughout southern Africa for various organisations including African Parks Zambia, the Vilanculos Coastal Wildlife Sanctuary, Hilland Associates in Wilderness, and Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife. Karen has a passion for marine ecology and has spent the last few years pursuing the effective conservation of dugongs and their marine habitat. Recent population estimates indicate that the area in and around Mozambique’s Bazaruto Archipelago retain a dugong population of no more than 200 individuals. This population represents the western Indian Ocean’s single remaining viable population, which is under threat from a combination of factors including: Their incidental, and sometimes intentional capture in fishing nets (gill nets) Commercial gill netting, intentionally or as by catch Uncontrolled coastal and inland development leading to habitat loss Fishing practices (seine netting) that mechanically damage sea grasses (dugong forage) Climate change. However, at this stage one can only speculate on how this linkage might operate although a likely event under increased rainfall would be greater turbidity, hence lowered sea grass productivity

• • • • •

The Convention on Migratory Species reports that dugongs face the risk of extinction within the next 40 years. With reference to Mozambique’s coastline, experts state: “It is highly unlikely that the

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dugong population in the Bazaruto region can endure, let alone recover, unless immediate and effective actions are taken towards their conservation, and these actions are adopted by local authorities and communities”.

Dugongs and their habitat Dugongs occur in shallow tropical and subtropical coastal and island waters of the Indo-pacific. These herbivores are sea grass specialists and frequent shallow coastal bays, mangrove channels, and the lee of large inshore islands. When dugongs lack the required amount and quality of food, they delay breeding and limit lactation. Sea grass ecosystems are highly responsive to human-induced disturbances. The effects often result in reduced photosynthetic ability of grasses and a reduction in productivity. These flowering marine plants store approximately 15% of atmospheric carbon in their network of belowground structures. The Bazaruto Archipelago’s sea grass environment constitutes an area of Globally Outstanding status (www.wiomsa. org). Data has confirmed the existence of relic populations of dugong

in Tanzania and Mayotte, while establishing the regional significance of the Bazaruto Archipelago as a vital dugong habitat. Individuals and small family groups are known to occur in Kenya, Madagascar, Seychelles, and the Comoros Archipelago. More than 70% of the people in the Bazaruto Archipelago are directly dependant on fishing and fishery related industries as a primary livelihood and base for economic and social development. Due to limited alternative income opportunities, extreme pressure has been exerted on marine, coastal, and terrestrial resources. There is a critical necessity to modify current fishing methods to sustainable practices, and step-up law enforcement in Bazaruto and the greater Western Indian Ocean/ East African Marine Eco-region. Reduction or elimination of threats to dugongs and their habitat hinges on immediate action and longterm commitment in the form of regional-based collaboration. Only then can we expect to reverse the trends of dugong loss, and stabilise our only remaining viable population.

Clamp down

on illegal seafood Seafood restaurant Emperor’s Kitchen at uShaka Marine World was recently found guilty of seafood bought illegally from poachers and owner Hong Ping Wu was sentenced to a fine of R180 000, and manger Paul Wu, to a fine of R120 000. Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife officers, with the help of Customs and Excise trained sniffer dogs, had found 70 protected East Coast rock-lobsters, 6 abalones and local fish in the restaurant, suspected to have been bought illegally from spear fishermen. Magistrate M.Z. Ngcobo said it was disturbing to see strict laws flouted which were in place to preserve marine species for future generations. State environmental prosecutor Waldo Smit, who chairs the Durban Wildlife Crime Working Group appeared for the prosecution. Ezemvelo said offences of this nature created a market and warned restaurants and private persons only to buy seafood from recognised dealers. Inspections and monitoring are continuing.

Writers Write Right? Wildside constantly receives stories from readers, hence the introduction of the MyStory page. Many readers are obviously interested in writing too. Everyone has a story to tell but writing it is often, well, another story. It’s only writers who write, right? Not so. to the nitty gritty of plain language and how to write for South Africa’s diverse language groups. The new Consumer Protection Act (CPA) is a legislative challenge for communicators.

According to the founder of Writers Write, Amanda Patterson, anyone can write and she should know as 100 graduates from Writers Write have published their work. Amanda lives her dream. She teaches people how to write. She interviews famous authors like Jody Picoult and John van der Ruit. More than 12 000 people follow her on Facebook and Twitter. She has her own book club with 15 000 subscribers. Whether you write e-mails to colleagues all over the world, short stories about your holiday or have ever dreamt of writing a novel, Writers Write will teach you how to do it and give you the tools to do it even better. Amanda founded Writers Write in 2002. The courses and the company have grown and adapted to encompass the changes in language and writing. The company now consists of two main divisions: Writers Write Business and Writers Write Creative.

Plain Language The Writers Write Business division runs The Plain Language Programme. Business people are expected to be good writers. The Plain Language Programme provides the tools. Grammar refresher and editing techniques get

On the Plain Language Programme communicators will learn how to express themselves in plain language effectively. It is a four day programme tailored to suit your company and employees. Before everyone had a computer on their desk, the company letterhead was only available to a chosen few. These days every employee has a company email address and access to the company client base. Here’s hoping everyone read the memo about the CPA before they forward the joke about the half-price deal starting tomorrow.

Creative Writing – Write that book Writers Write 1 breaks down the process of novel writing. You will learn about viewpoint, how to define your characters, pick your genre, how to provide engaging descriptions. Learn that you can write dialogue. You will also learn more about yourself and writing than you ever thought imaginable. Writers Writes 2 will teach you how to plot your book in 4 days. Build your story, apply the techniques of Writers Write 1 to your own book. You will write scenes in class, identify and build characters and figure out who goes where and what happens when. Short creative courses include; Memoirs – this is my life, Short Cuts – the short story recipe, This Kiss – how to write a romance book and writing for children. Courses are interactive and the atmosphere is relaxed and fun. The facilitators are experienced, knowledgeable and approachable.

Bring only yourself and a willingness to learn and the rest will be supplied. As Amanda would say, “You can have your book or you can have you excuses, but you can’t have both.” So what is stopping you?

Prices are per person excluding vat: 4-day Business Writing R6 500pp, 4-day Writers Write 1 or 2 R6 000, 2-day This Kiss R4 000 and Memoirs, Short Cuts and Kids all 1-day cost R2 000.

Contact Writers Write: Mia Botha: mia@writerswrite.co.za or Ulrike Hill: ulrike@writerswrite. co.za or visit our website www. writerswrite.co.za and tell them you saw it in Wildside magazine.

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NPC-CIMPOR PROVIDES LEARNING OPPORTUNITES FOR OVER 600 000 STUDENTS Among KwaZulu-Natal’s many tourist attractions is uShaka Marine World – an amazing facility that provides a world of entertainment, excitement, fun and importantly education through the NPC-CIMPOR Sea World Edu-Centre. NPC-CIMPOR has sponsored the Centre since its opening at uShaka Marine World in 2004. A substantial portion of the funding is used to support the two initiatives that make up the company’s Outreach Programme. The first is to provide guided tours for learners who visit the facility; the second equips the outreach team and its mobile marine vehicle to travel to the schools. Schools wanting to visit the NPC-CIMPOR Sea World Edu-Centre are encouraged to complete an application form. A committee reviews these each month to ensure that specific criteria are met and funds are distributed fairly. The NPC-CIMPOR Edu-Centre is visited by about 1500 schools each year and, to date, more than 615 000 learners have been guests of the EduCentre. Of these, more than 100 000 learners from economically disadvantaged communities in KwaZulu-Natal have received full-entry sponsorship to visit Sea World. This includes an introductory lesson focusing on marine conservation – equipping future generations to protect our vulnerable oceans.

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Thanks to NPC-CIMPOR’s funding, the Outreach Programme has grown from one staff member with a borrowed vehicle visiting 16 schools a year to the current team of two full-time staff members, a dedicated vehicle and a fullyequipped “wetlab” trailer visiting over 100 schools annually along the coast of KwaZuluNatal, from Sodwana Bay to Port Shepstone. Since 2004 curriculum-based lessons have been given to more 56 000 learners. In addition to the lessons, workshops for educators are also undertaken to provide examples of background information and the latest methodology for topics in the new curriculum. Over 3 500 educators have attended workshops since their inception in 2004. The impact of one of these visits on children in remote, impoverished communities is incalculable. For many young South Africans the sea is an unknown and dangerous environment. Staff of the Sea World Edu-Centre are able to show them this fascinating underwater world, discuss conservation and encourage changes to their daily lifestyles in the catchment areas of

our rivers, thereby reducing our impact on the oceans. NPC-CIMPOR is proud to support the EduCentre – a facility that not only provides great entertainment, but also unlocks the secrets of this mysterious underwater world for all visitors.

WILDSIDE MAGAZINE

The Safari Awards More than three hundred of the ‘safari world’s’ leading tour operators and product owners, along with media will attend The 2011 Safari Awards gala ceremony to announce winners. Wildside is a media partner of the Safari Awards, sponsored by The Good Safari Guide. The purpose of the Safari Awards is to recognise excellence amongst the very best safari lodges and operators in Africa. Since their inception in 2008 the Safari Awards have gone from strength to strength, and are now regarded as an industry gold standard. The 2011 Safari Awards have attracted more than 315 nominations across 18 categories. Finalists were selected during April and winners announced at a gala ceremony in May. All the Good Safari Guide Award Judges have been nominated by the trade as the most highlyrespected, knowledgeable independent tour operators. The judges sit at the head of the Good Safari Guide, ensuring that the lodges, camps and operations presented both in the guides and in

the Awards really are the best in Africa. With over three thousand safari lodges, camps and mobile safari operators in Africa there is a need to differentiate between those that provide an average or bad safari experience and the few who exceed expectations. It is not a question of luxury, but of the ‘safari experience’ from your arrival on a remote airstrip to the revelation of the wilderness and how it works by your professional safari guide. Accommodation and cuisine are a vital element to the enjoyment of any safari but our aim is to identify the safari companies that provide the best overall safari experience, regardless of expense. With nominations from over a thousand luxury travel professionals, hundreds of readers of Conde Nast Traveller, Tatler, Brides and Travel

Africa Magazine you can rest assured that any safari business nominated for a Safari Award is amongst the best in its genre. Finalists are amongst the top 3% in Africa and the Safari Award Winners are unquestionably the best, their reputation earned through excellence recognised by people who know what they are talking about. A wildlife safari is a unique experience that many can only dream of doing once. If you are lucky enough to have the opportunity you should select the safari camps, lodges and operators with care to ensure your experience is not spoilt by bad guiding, bad food or uncomfortable accommodation. By selecting a Safari Award winner, or finalist, you are unlikely to be disappointed.

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AFRICA PHOTOGRAPHIC COMPETITION 2010/2011

Overall Winner

Fourth quarter and overall winner of the competition â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Photographer: Dave Pusey. Title: Dusk lookout. Description: Taken in the western Sabi Sand, it was the low angle, her intent focus and dusk lighting that made this shot. A beanbag was essential in the low light as the shutter speed was slow at 1/25 with 400 ISO.

Overall Winner Dave Pusey who won the fourth quarter competition, also scooped the overall prize in the Wildside Africa photographic competition sponsored by Nikon, beating more than 1000 entries uploaded throughout the year-long competition.

Renowned photographer, Roger de la Harpe said it was a very difficult choice and any of the three runners up were of winning standard, however he said that light and composition had swayed him to select Puseyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s shot.

The standard of entries was exceptionally high, and while each quarter in itself proved to be a challenge in selecting a winner, the final selection from all four quarterly winners was not an easy task.

Pusey walks away with a pair of Action 8x 40 Nikon binoculars valued at R1000 as the quarterly winner, plus the grand prize of R20 000 worth of Nikon equipment and a three night stay for two people at Esiweni Lodge in KwaZulu-Natal valued at R12 870.

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www.esiweni.co.za

At the heart of the Image

The Competition Judge Freelance photographer and owner of Africa Imagery, a stock photo library, Roger de la Harpe has a passion for natural history, wild places and different cultures and his work on these subjects has featured in most notably BBC Wildlife and National Geographic. Roger reaches for the Nikon D3X and Nikon 200-400mm lens for wildlife photography and the Nikon 14-24mm and Nikon 24-70mm lenses for scenic and travel images. What could you accomplish if you could redraw the boundaries of photography? Find out with Nikon. www.nikon.co.za

1st Runner Up – Photographer: Brendon Cremer. Title: Jackal Buzzard landing in the Drakensberg.

Runners Up 3rd Runner Up – Photographer: Marc Lindsay-Rea. Title: Black Rhino Charge. Description: Myself and a guest were photographing some small jackal

2nd Runner Up – Photographer: Brendon Cremer. Title: Queen of darkness. Description: Lioness in the Sabi Sand Game Reserve, lying in the dark

pups in the south of Madikwe Game Reserve. It just so happened that in the same open clearing there was a pride of lion on a wildebeest kill. While all of this went on two black rhino arrived on the scene. The lions took interest in them and started to stalk the mother rhino and calf. Unfortunately they spotted us and came charging at us at full force. It was a toss up to keep photographing the full sequence but I had to stop at one point. I was shouting and smashing the side of my door with my hand and thank goodness they screeched to a halt and turned off to the right with the lions in hot pursuit. Heart stopping moment.

with spotlight from behind created a great rim lighting effect. AUTUMN 2011 WILDSIDE

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At the heart of the Image

AFRICA PHOTOGRAPHIC COMPETITION 2010/2011 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; HIGHLY COMMENDED

Photographer: Helena Faasen. Title: Chameleon display. Description: This image of a flap-necked chameleon was taken in Botswana.

Photographer: Ross Couper. Title: Night watch.

Photographer: Peter Delaney. Title: Wildebeest trek. Description: In the Kalahari, the rains have not arrived. Animals rely on manmade waterholes, but food is in short supply and requires long foraging journeys into the dunes. These wildebeest, having quenched their thirst, make the long trek to the dunes in search of food. With heads lowered as they move across a dry river bed their laboured walking kicks up dust that fills the air around them. The sun rays filter through the dust creating an ethereal glow.

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Photographer: Reginald Scully. Title: Bee power. Description: Eos Canon 30D 100mm macro, Drakensberg.

Photographer: Shane Saunders. Title: Lion and baby honey badger. Description: This image was taken in the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park. This young male had just broken the mother honey badgerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s back and returned to finish off the baby â&#x20AC;&#x201C; very sad.

Photographer: Milton Vieira. Title: Singing dolphins. Description: While diving off Sodwana, we encountered a pod of 30 or so dolphins. A few of them were singing a tune! It almost sounded like jazz. Each bubble in the photo was a note we heard.

Photographer: Simon Blackburn. Title: Boomslang dinner. Description: On a game drive one afternoon we investigated agitated weavers at a donga crossing and found a boomslang raiding the nest having eaten the chicks and still being mobbed by the parents. Eos 10D 300mm f4 Is.

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85% of the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fish stocks are either overexploited or exploited to their maximum. No fishing gear is completely selective. As a result, many nontarget fish or endangered species of albatrosses, sharks and turtles are accidentally caught as bycatch. Globally, it is estimated that approximately a quarter of what is caught is thrown back, often dead, and wasted. Stats from 2010 United Nationâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Food and Agricultural organisation (FAO) report.

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Some fishing techniques pose a threat to marine habitats which are the life support system for marine life. Marine ecosystems exist in a delicate balance â&#x20AC;&#x201C; therefore harvesting a species can have implications for the function of the entire system.

A Recipe for Change

he recent controversial documentary The End of the Line: The World without Fish sheds some light on the effect of our global love affair with seafood. It effectively illustrates the devastating effects of overfishing, on both a social and environmental level, and the profound implications of a world without fish. It further highlights the importance of seeing our oceans as a thriving, huge and complex marine environment instead of simply a food factory. But, instead of harping on a rather depressing message, the film ends on a decidedly positive note, strongly encouraging consumers to answer the call to action and actively drive the necessary change in the seafood industry. Opposite page:

The subsequent and unforeseeable effect of consumers chronically asking questions about their seafood and demanding sustainable seafood has had profound effects worldwide. For example, after seeing the film, UK celebrity chef, restaurateur and media personality Jamie Oliver removed Bluefin Tuna from all his menus. But only when his customers started responding to the call to action, raising the issue with him directly and asking him the relevant questions, did he realise that he had no other choice but to respond and start using more sustainable seafood in his recipes.

Top left and right:

Seabird and turtle bycatch in the South African Pelagic Longline Fishery, photographed by Thomas P. Peschak.

Left: Bycatch in the South African Demersal Trawl Fishery photographed by the SASSI senior programme manager: marine, Dr Samantha Petersen.

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nise the role of consumer activism and informed buying as a strong means of catalysing positive change through the seafood industry. So, in the spirit of creating recipes for sustainable seafood, what ingredients are needed to customise such a champion? One could imagine the recipe to look something like this:

the seafood supply chain and to be a champion. When all is said and done, the best way to let the large seafood companies know that you don’t want an unsustainable product and deserve a better, more environmentally-friendly product is through stopping the demand;

Ingredients 1 x willing consumer with a mouth (both for eating and asking lots of questions) 1 x a deep love for seafood An inkling of interest, a pinch of passion and a dash of determination (in equal quantities)

Here in South Africa, where the health of many of our coastal communities is integrally linked to the health of our marine resources, the call to action is clear; as a consumer, it is important to realise that you have the power to ‘vote with your wallet’. WWF’s SASSI (the Southern African Sustainable Seafood Initiative) programme encourages consumers to always ask three simple questions of their seafood: What is it called? Where is it from? How was it caught or farmed? But, while a key objective of the programme remains raising general awareness around marine conservation, a select few consumers have moved beyond this general call to action to become champions. Due to the almost weekly determined onslaught by these consumers on top management of prominent South African retailers, significant changes have been catalysed; for example, one of the biggest retailers in the country has recently committed to not procuring overexploited imported linefish species. These individuals continue to stubbornly challenge these retailers to consider the high risks associated with greenwashing their businesses whilst encouraging them to urgently address issues of seafood sustainability. These consumers are driving significant change through their active determination to contribute to the recovery of our overexploited marine resources. Furthermore, they fully recog-

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Directions 1. Since the call to action is not intended to stop people eating fish but rather to ensure continued enjoyment of seafood in a responsible manner, a basic love of seafood is an essential component. 2. Stir in a spirit of appreciation and wonder for the ocean and its inhabitants and season with a dash of enthusiasm. 3. Marinade with more detailed knowledge about the threats to our oceans, pepper with the zest of passion, and then flavour with the tangible solutions to overfishing. 4. Lightly grill on the fire of activism and, finally, dress with a determined attitude to challenge retailers and restaurants to provide better information about their seafood.

And voila – your champion is ready to serve questions to your local supermarket or seafood restaurant. Remember to serve with a glass of dry white wine to prevent an overly offensive end-product! Most importantly, following this recipe does not require formal training; everyday people possess within themselves the power needed to drive change through

we need to put our mouths where our money is and communicate clearly to restaurants and retailers why we choose to purchase sustainable seafood products. For more information about SASSI, you can visit the SASSI website at www.wwfsassi.org.za. Or, if you have specific questions, email SASSI at sassi@wwf.org.za.

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Elephan

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t COAST The four magnificent routes of the Elephant Coast unfold spectacular, pristine and unspoilt marine and wildlife displays against cinematic views offering you personal, dramatic and unusual encounters with nature in Africa. They are routes where history and culture are intertwined with your experience â&#x20AC;&#x201C; many of which are only to be found here, and simply nowhere else in the world. From being immersed in nature in the St Lucia to iMfolozi route with is diversity of nature based activities, to taking you into the heart of the African Bush to see the Big 5 in the False Bay to Hluhluwe central route, experiences abound. With the highest bird count in South Africa, the Ndumo reserve forms part of the third route, along with mystery and history. The Kosi Bay to Sodwana route includes world class diving, beautiful beaches as well as game viewing. Throughout the region you will be impressed by the diversity of landscapes, and despite being unspoilt, there is an array of accommodation offerings including camping, bed and breakfasts, exclusive lodges and remote getaways as well as organised activities and tours. Wildside has explored the iSimangaliso Wetland Park, the new Tembe Masizwane Lodge, and the Hilltop Camp at Hluhluwe Imfolozi, while Thonga Beach Lodge and Thanda Private Game Reserve also in Northern KwaZulu-Natal, are featured in the hotel spread.

Photograph by Rod Macleod AUTUMN 2011 WILDSIDE

Top Notch

Hilltop

Hilltop Camp, Hluhluwe-Imfolozi Reserve, KwaZulu-Natal Words: Lisa Kรถhler Photographs: Rod MacLeod

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The buffalo are a fine splatter of black spots on the far hill’s slope. Some youngsters watching the buffalo jostle over rights to the bright blue onsite telescope. Tiptoeing, the butting heads can just reach the eyepiece. The battle is justified. The verandah at Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife’s Hilltop Camp offers a spectacular vista of rolling hills and deep green valleys. It’s a fish-eye view of Hluhluwe-Imfolozi Reserve’s 96 000 ha. The camp’s verandah is also a great place for adults. Grab the binocs, a cup of coffee and play a grown-up version of ‘I Spy’ with wildlife – there’s always a chance you might see a pride of lion under a far off acacia. These Zululand hills are rich in animal life, birdlife and history. The first conservation strategy was put in place by Zulu kings – to preserve the area as a royal hunting ground. Hluhluwe-Imfolozi, established in 1895, is the oldest reserve in Africa, and its main camp Hilltop dates back to 1934. However, don’t get the impression that this is a rustic camp trapped in an antiquated past. The impressive triple volume reception and ample leather couches quickly dispel that misconception. Hilltop Camp is right up-to-date with modern comforts such as internet, swimming pool, restaurant and curio shop. Remnants of its ancient past remain captured in sepia on the walls of the pub and lounge. At Hilltop, you’ll be likely to hear - a ‘Babel of languages’ around you as you laze on the verandah sipping your drink because this camp’s award-winning reputation has spread all over the world.

‘Old school’ For those with fond childhood memories, or a yen for the ‘old school’ experience of staying in a game reserve, Hilltop still offers the traditional thatched rondavels. These also make sense from a budget point-of-view. Tried and tested, the comfortable two-bedded rondavels are always cool in the hot Zululand summers, and cosy on cooler nights. Some rondavels have en-suite bathrooms and

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Above: Hilltop offers a variety of accommodation choices including traditional rondavels and self-contained units.

others communal ablutions. All are perfect for families who want to self-cater. You will have to bring your own food, but if you forgot some basic supply at home you more than likely will find it at the shop, from a toothbrush to even a good bottle of red wine. The communal kitchens are well equipped – ideal for cooking that brunch after an early morning game drive. Braai places and picnic tables are also liberally scattered on the expansive lawns. It’s the stuff South Africans have built family memories on –a braai under the stars, kids playing on the lawns in slippers and PJs, and the far-off sound of a hyena’s mad mirth.

‘New school’ If your accommodation style is more ‘new school’ then opt for one of the more modern chalets. These are spacious self-contained units either for a couple or family. The chalets are ‘home from home’ with lounges, kitchens, en-suite bedrooms and sometimes even a TV. Amongst all these creature comforts, if you have any doubt you are deep in the bush the décor’s warm earthy colours

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will remind you, and if not, the roar of a lion heard from your patio at night definitely will.

“No cooking, please” For those that feel it’s no holiday if they have to cook then there is always the option of meals at the Mpunyane Restaurant. This particularly suits guests staying in the non self-catering twenty two-bedded chalets close to the main reception area. The restaurant offers scrumptious spreads from full English and Continental breakfasts to a-la-carte lunch menus and evening buffets. Those that are budget conscious should note that this feast comes at a price but it is a worthwhile indulgence for at least one meal during your stay.

Space Regardless of your accommodation choice, whether it is the luxury lodge or budget rondavel, the beauty of staying at Hilltop Camp is its space. The camp is large enough that if you wish to stretch your legs after a game drive there is room

to roam. There is even a forest trail. A leisurely saunter to the large swimming pool at the top of the camp for a dip before the traditional afternoon siesta is just the ticket.

Exploring Although the manicured lawns of Hilltop provide guests sheltered civilization, the camp is in the heart of big five territory. Magnificent views and distant sightings aside, most visitors are hoping for close-up views of the reserve’s wildlife. Hilltop Camp is the perfect base from which to explore. For closer encounters, reception arranges morning and night game drives when many of the animals are the most active. It is always a matter of luck and timing, however there is the fair chance of good sightings as many lucky guests attest to. Depending on the numbers interested, the camp’s reception also offers morning and afternoon walks where you are likely to see white rhino, and the rest is up to luck once again. However, animals are often skittish when people are walking versus their less threatened response to a vehicle’s profile.

Immediately our field ranger, Bonginkosi Mdletshe, stops and says hushed, “Lioness calling her cubs”. Fleetingly we spot her through a gap in the grass, padding single-mindedly presumably towards her cubs.

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Above: Students from Austria are introduced to the African bush during their stay at Hluhluwe. Insert: Fresh lion spoor.

There are advantages to a walk. The sensory experience of touching and smelling the bushveld is not something you can experience driving at even 10 km per hour. Walking pace allows you the time to observe minute details. A field ranger guides all walks. He comes armed – with good bush knowledge and a rifle. We were appreciative of the latter when there was a deep, guttural “gruff, gruff” in tall grass 40 m off to our left. Immediately our field ranger, Bonginkosi Mdletshe, stops and says hushed, “Lioness calling her cubs”. Fleetingly we spot her through a gap in the grass, padding single-mindedly presumably towards her cubs. Magical chance encounters such as these keep drawing people back to

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Hluhluwe-Imfolozi Reserve. It is stuff of family tales and memories. It is also about the anticipation as you drive out of Hilltop, leaving the safety of the camp’s fences and gates. The early morning sky is lightening to a deep indigo. With your full thermos flask and the day ahead to explore the reserve in your own car, any thrilling wild experience could be stumbled upon.

WILDSIDE Fact Tracker Hilltop Camp Where: The recommended route from the north or south is to turn off the N2 at Hluhluwe village and follow the tarred road to Memorial Gate.  An alternative route is to turn off the N2 at Mtubatuba on to the R618 and proceed towards Hlabisa and travel for 27 kms to Nyalazi Gate. Important to note: Gate Opening and Closing Times – Summer (November to February) 05h00 to 19h00; Winter (March to October) 06h00 to 18h00 Accommodation and Costs: All units are serviced daily. 7x2-bed chalets (selfcatering) R1280 total per unit; 22x4-bed chalets (self-catering) R2090 total per unit; 20x2-bed rondavels R640 total per unit; 20x2-bed (non self-catering) R1280 total per unit; 1x8-bed luxury lodge R5600 total unit charge. A daily Conservation Levy of R110 per adult per day and R55 per child <12 yrs). Children <3 yrs no charge. Contact: Phone: 033 845 1000 Fax: 033 845 1001 Email: info@kznwildlife.com

PRO TIPS

Roger de la Harpe PROFESSIONAL tips on

OUTDOOR PHOTOGRAPHY

Freelance photographer Roger de la Harpe has a passion for natural history, wild places and different cultures and his work on these subjects has featured in most notably BBC Wildlife and National Geographic. Roger reaches for the Nikon D3X and Nikon 200-400mm lens for wildlife photography and the Nikon 14-24mm and 24-70mm lenses for scenic and travel images. Roger, together with his accomplished author Pat de la Harpe have published some 19 coffee table books, including Zulu, Top Touring Spots of South Africa, Tuli-Land of Giants and their latest book, In Search of the African Wild Dog.

ing in to collect of building a nest and kept com a focus This heron was in the process cted sele I er. easi little a s made thing ed pos sticks in the same area which com ectly corr was e when the imag point that would be on the bird bonus and provide some a were os hipp The in. bird and simply tracked the e. additional interest to the imag

als, birds and humans it When photographing anim s should be in focus. are the focal point and thu

is normally an eye or eye

s that

What I did here was to set the camera’s white balance to tung sten (which gives the overall blue cast) and then the glow of the lamps and a flash with an orange gel on the camera’s left adds warmth to the subjects.

Never pack you camera away. We were doing a sho ot at Isimangaliso Wetland Park and had pre tty much wrapped things up. The guys were sitting rela xing in the boa t as we headed home and I had the Nikon D3X and Nikon 200-400mm on my had a go at each other and lap. As we moved past these hippo bulls I picked up the camera and couple of shots – the who let rip with a le thing probably took 2 seconds! Don’t put the camera away until the day is really over.

What could you accomplish if you could redraw the boundaries of photography? Find out with Nikon. www.nikon.co.za

WILDSIDE AUTUMN 2011

iSimangaliso Unwrapped

outh Africa’s first World Heritage Site and second largest conservation area, iSimangaliso Wetland Park, has enjoyed over 10 years of continual growth and evolved into one of the country’s premier tourist attractions. Inscribed by UNESCO for exceptional biodiversity, ecological processes and superlative scenic beauty, iSimangaliso also contains four wetlands of international importance under the Ramsar Convention. From the foundations of 16 separate parcels of land as well as 220km of coastline and Marine Protected Area, with differing user groups, resources and past management structures, the Park has dynamically managed to consolidate itself as a leading example in the new era of conservation, where people and development have an equal role to play to ensure sustainability and longevity. Central to the mandate and vision of the iSimangaliso Wetland Park Authority, the first of its kind appointed by national government to manage a World Heritage Site, is the need to deliver real and tangible benefits to as many as possible of the 620 000+ immediate neighbours in and adjacent to its borders without compromising the World Heritage values. Along with capacity building programmes, land claim settlements, job creation programmes, alien plant removals and numerous other interventions, iSimangaliso also embarked on substantial improvements within the Park’s boundaries, ticking off an impressive number of ‘firsts’. For the first time in history, a continuous fence encompasses the midsection from Sodwana Bay to uMkhuze. More than 200 buffalo have a new home in the uMkhuze section after over a century’s absence. Visitors of all backgrounds and socioeconomic groups are visiting areas from which many of their forefathers were forcibly removed by the apartheid government. And later this Scenes from the new viewing facilities at iSimangaliso Wetland Park: This page top to bottom: Mt Tabor

viewpoint, Amazibu Pan from the bird viewing screen, Lake Bhangazi deck view, Catalina Bay deck view.

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year - also for the first time - black rhino will be introduced into the Ozabeni section of the Park along with a host of other game species. Since late 2010, iSimangaliso again shifted up a gear, contracting the most extensive and ambitious projects to date, injecting R125 million into developing and upgrading tourist facilities and infrastructure to ensure that iSimangaliso is unquestionably recognised as a world-class destination. At Sodwana Bay, the country’s most popular scuba dive destination, public areas are being upgraded with improved parking, access, ablutions and picnic spots. A new network of game viewing roads, view sites, hides and picnic sites on the Eastern and Western Shores and uMkhuze, and improvements to tourism nodes in the Coastal Forest Reserve aim to enhance both overnight and day visitors’ experience of iSimangaliso, including disabled access in many areas. A mammoth effort has also gone into standardising signage and gate buildings throughout the Park to correctly brand and consolidate the destination with an innovative look and feel. Along with the ‘hardware’, iSimangaliso is expanding the list of registered tourism activities available to ensure maximum visitor choice. These include guided birding, kayaking, horse riding, whale watching, turtle tours, deep sea charter fishing, game and night drives, wilderness trails, scuba diving and many more. Andrew Zaloumis, the organisations’ passionate CEO, comments that “despite a recessionary climate, Park visitor numbers have grown every year and visitor surveys confirm that the Park is viewed as a value for money destination by South Africans. Management is committed to carrying this momentum forward to make iSimangaliso a must-see destination, reflect its World Heritage values, superb natural attractions and tourist facilities as well as its key role in community upliftment and empowerment in the region.”

From top: Aerial view of Eastern Shores, Nsumo Pan picnic site in uMkhuze, wild dogs in the bomas at uMkhuze prior to release, boat cruise on Lake St Lucia Estuary, Fig Forest walk and new canopy walk in uMkhuze, elephant at kuMasinga Hide, uMkhuze, sunset view from Kosi Bay’s Lake Nhlange campsite and a zebra on the Eastern Shores.

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Get Active in iSimangaliso · Estuary boat cruises · Fishing charters · Whale watching · Scuba diving · Turtle tours · Shore angling WILDSIDE Fact Tracker iSimangaliso Wetland Park Interesting Facts iSimangaliso includes 9% of SA coastline, extending from Maphelane in the south to Kosi Bay on the Mozambique border in the north and inland including uMkhuze Game Reserve. The Park has four of the ‘Big 5’ (no lion), whales, turtles and a cornucopia of marine life. It contains three major lake systems, eight interlinking ecosystems, 700-year-old fish traps, most of South Africa’s remaining swamp forests, Africa’s largest estuarine system as well as her longest trans-frontier marine protected area, one of the world’s finest coral reefs at Sodwana, 526 bird species and 25 000 year-old coastal dunes – amongst the highest in the world. New Roads New link roads and gates between Sodwana Bay and uMkhuze enable unbeatable beach and bush experiences one hour’s drive apart. Key refurbished and new attractions include: uMkhuze – Fig Forest Walk, KuMasinga hide, Bird viewing hides and Beacon viewpoint Eastern Shores – Amazibu bird hide, Catalina Bay deck and picnic site, Mfabeni deck, Lake Bhangazi deck, Mount Tabor viewpoint and Mfazana bird hide Western Shores – Umdoni loop, Mpathe Loop, Big tree Canopy tree walk, Palm viewpoint and Makakatana bird hide How to get there: Road: Access N2 from Durban and Richards Bay, or Gauteng. Flights: via Richards Bay or Durban Visit www.iSimangaliso.com for information, accommodation and tourism activities and contact details. iSimangaliso office: 035 5901633.

· Kayaking · Horse riding · Snorkelling

· Game drives · Night drives · Guided birding

· Nature trails · Bicycle tours

nsconced in a rare sand forest far from the madding crowds and close to a spectacular variety of animals and birds you will find Tembe Masizwane Lodge. Here, you can enjoy the tranquility of your surroundings while you contemplate which of the diverse array of nature based adventure and activities to enjoy. It’s also a place where you can take comfort in that it is a place dedicated to responsible tourism, a place which celebrates Africa and her people.

Tembe Masizwane Lodge meaning “to assist one another” in Zulu, is situated alongside the world renowned Tembe Elephant Park in Northern KwaZulu-Natal, which boasts the largest elephants in the world. It is the culmination of a dream of the local Tembe community and private investors to create a natural paradise for visitors to this unique reserve. The lodge is architecturally designed to emulate the local Tonga building style, and each of the fourteen chalets are uniquely positioned to offer guests total privacy and luxurious comfort within a sand forest in Tembe Elephant Park. Natural materials and timber give a warm organic ambience and invite the outdoors in and all rooms are appointed with quality furnishings while bathrooms come complete with an indoor and private outdoor shower for those who enjoy immersing themselves in their surroundings in rare solitude and perfect tranquility. An hour and a half from Hluhluwe, a comfortable three and a half hour’s drive from King Shaka International Airport, and on the doorstep of Southern Mozambique’s decadent beaches, Tembe Elephant Park is renowned as one of the few remaining wilderness areas in Southern Africa. This Big 5 reserve, set in an area of sand forests, pans and wetlands in northern Thongaland, falls within a transition area between tropical and sub-tropical forms, and is therefore home to a great diversity of vegetation - with this diversity of habitats Tembe is home to a spectacular variety of animals and birds. Birdlife around the lodge

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Tembe Masizwane Lodge â&#x20AC;ŚDiscover this gem in Northern KwaZulu-Natal

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The chalets are orientated in such a way as to create cool shady interiors and covered verandas that provide respite from the African sun. Local materials and construction methods have been used to minimize the impact on the ecological processes of the environment.

is particularly splendid, with numerous specials such as Neergaard’s sunbird, Rudd’s apalis, Woodward’s batis, plainbacked sunbird and pink-throated twinspot being regularly sighted within the lodge’s property.

Dine under the stars The eHlatini restaurant at Tembe Masizwane Lodge focuses on creating innovative and delicious meals by combining traditional European style cuisine infused with a local twist, and a fully stocked wine cellar offering fine South African wines. The main lodge building houses the restaurant and a comfortable lounge area, where guests can sit back and enjoy a chilled glass of wine whilst watching birds flocking to the birdbath in front of the lounge deck, or just relax after a long day of activity. The restaurant serves al fresco lunches and set dinners, either seated in the restaurant or in the boma area under a million African stars. Fine meals are prepared with fresh ingredients, and are often infused with local flavors to create unique and tantalizing dishes.

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The reception area avails of a fully stocked curio shop, displaying goods and handmade artifacts which are produced by the local communities.

Hide away in the sand forest The chalets are all individually situated and partially hidden by the surrounding sand forest and their overhanging thatched roofs. The designs are tailored to suit the topography by fragmenting the built form and threading it around the natural features of each site including established trees and large shrubs. The interiors are designed to offer guests uncluttered views of the forest, allowing nature into the chalets and making your encounter with the landscape both intimate and dramatic. The chalets are orientated in such a way as to create cool shady interiors and covered verandas that provide respite from the African sun. Local materials and construction methods have been used to minimize the impact on the ecological processes of the environment. Bedding and furniture within the chalets are of supreme quality, with each

chalet having its own coffee/tea station, and the option of either an indoor or outdoor shower. The chalets are linked to each other and the main complex by elevated boardwalks, which minimize the impact on the environment.

Activities and Excursions -Tembe and surrounds Game Drives in Tembe Elephant Park Morning and afternoon game drives departing from the lodge are included in the Tembe experience. A typical game drive will start off early morning after a light breakfast, and include visits to waterholes where big game frequent. The afternoon drives concentrate on exploring the width and breadth of the reserve, searching for game and birdlife not encountered on the morning drive, and culminates in sundowners at a scenic spot and a night drive on return to camp searching for the elusive nocturnal species found in the reserve.

Tembe Cultural Experiences The people living in Maputaland have a rich cultural heritage, with traditional customs still evident in a number of ceremonies that occur in homesteads throughout the region, as well as a unique history and culture that sets them apart from their Zulu, Swazi and Shangaan neighbours. They call themselves Tembe or Thonga after their founding ancestors who migrated to this area in the middle of the seventeenth century. Tembe established a mighty kingdom, which extended into the Delagoa Bay (Maputo) hinterland. His kingdom stretched from the Pongola (Maputo) River in the west to the Indian Ocean in the east, and from Delagoa Bay in the north to around the Sodwana Bay area in the south. On this excursion you will have the opportunity to meet and interact with the local community, and observe how they go about their daily lives, whilst making a meaningful contribution towards community upliftment in the area.

Elephanting This excursion will entail a visit to Tembe Elephant Park with the specific purpose of concentrating on the African Elephant, its behaviour, anatomy, physiology, social behaviour, conservation

and much more. This excursion will also entail a short lecture on the African Elephant before setting off to observe them in the wild.

Tshanini Nature Reserve Tshanini is a 2 000ha reserve established in 2004 by the local community. Although big game are not a notable feature of this community reserve, the birding around the grasslands, sand forest, lakes and pans are of exceptional quality, and specials include rosythroated longclaw, Temminck’s courser, grass owl, and numerous lapwing species in the grasslands, black coucal in the wetland areas and Lesser Jacana in the pans.

Kosi Lake Boat Cruises The Kosi Bay Nature Reserve lies on the coast in the northern part of KwaZulu-Natal and surrounds the unique and beautiful Kosi Bay lake system which is part of the iSimangaliso Wetland Park, a World Heritage Site. This system consists of four lakes and a series of inter connecting channels which eventually drain via a sandy estuary into the Indian Ocean. This 2 hour boat cruise is scenically spectacular, and a great way to observe ancient fishing traditions practiced in the lakes. There’s snorkeling at the Kosi Bay mouth as well as beautiful beaches, off shore angling, and rock pools waiting to be discovered by you. Own snorkeling gear is required.

Ndumo Game Reserve Ndumo Game Reserve is situated on the banks of the Phongola and Usutu river and lies adjacent to Mozambique on the northern coastal plain. Despite its relatively small size, Ndumo Game Reserve is one of the most attractive game reserves in Southern Africa.

Ndumo is arguably one of South Africa’s most productive birding areas, with well over 400 species being recorded here and several of them being at the southernmost limit of their range. The visit to Ndumo includes a light picnic.

Tiger Fishing in Jozini Dam A major angling game fish, the striking tiger fish, can be recognized by the bluish sheen on its back, a series of parallel longitudinal black stripes, intensive yellow to blood red fins with trailing black edges and a series of 8 large, protruding, sharply pointed teeth. Aptly described as voracious and fierce, the tiger fish are found in warm, welloxygenated water, mainly in larger rivers and lakes, tending to frequent the surface layers where it often falls prey to the swooping African Fish Eagle.

WILDSIDE Fact Tracker Tembe Masizwane Lodge Where: Northern KwaZulu-Natal, an hour and a half from Hluhluwe, or three and a half hour’s drive from King Shaka International Airport. Rates: From R960 pppns including all meals, two game drives per day, guided walks in the sand forest and birding hikes. GPS: S27 16.01.210’ E32 29.380’ Bookings: Tel: +27 35 753 5695 Fax: +27 35 753 5875 Email: hannes@tembemasizwanelodge. co.za

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G H O S T

M OU NTAIN

ZULULAND’S FINEST COUNTRY INN

At the foot of the legendary Ghost Mountain in north eastern KwaZulu Natal, lies the intimate and beautiful Ghost Mountain Inn. Nature enthusiasts will appreciate the abundance of wildlife and the scenic splendours of this rich and diverse region during game drives, guided walks and boat cruises in the company of knowledgeable rangers. Back at the hotel, unwind with a soothing Spa

G H O S T

MOU NTAI N

ZULULAND’S FINEST COUNTRY INN

Mkuze, KwaZulu Natal, South Africa Tel: +27 (0)35 573 1025 Fax: +27 (0)35 573 1359 gmi@ghostmountaininn.co.za www.ghostmountaininn.co.za

Wild breakaways

…on the beautiful Elephant Coast

104 Main Street, Hluhluwe, KwaZulu Natal Tel: +27 (0) 35 562 4000 | Fax: +27 (0) 35 562 4001 Email: reservations@hluhluwehotel.co.za www.proteahotels.com/hluhluwe PHDS 22980/11

Zul u

Bi r d in g

For more information and rates, call the hotel direct on +27 (0) 35 562 4000 or email reservations@hluhluwehotel.co.za

At the Protea Hotel Hluhluwe & Safaris, you’ll discover the wild nature of Africa - rejoice in the luxury and revel in the friendly warmth of one of Africa’s most welcoming hotels. Activities on offer include open-vehicle game drives to the world renowned Hluhluwe/Imfolozi Game Reserve, home of the Big Five, as well as guided walks through False Bay Wildlife Reserve, Horse Riding, Golf, Crocodile Centre, Snake Park, Boat Cruises on St Lucia Estuary and many more.

Experience . . . Tel: (035) 474 4029

www.zbr.co.za/boardwalk email: boardwalk@birdlife.org.za

South Africa’s first aerial walkway in the indigenous forest canopy amongst birds, butterflies & forest animals, and enjoy a 20m high observation tower.

PAKAMISA PRIVATE          GAME RESERVE

Pakamisa Private Game Reserve, with its panoramic mountain views overlooking the Pongola river valley, awaits to rejuvenate your soul. Come and pamper yourself with luxurious accommodation, savour superb cuisine, and relish fine wines. Catch the excitement of a horseback safari amongst the game or test your skills with a number of outdoor adventure sports. 8   LUXURY  SUITES  •  HORSEBACK SAFARIS •  GAME DRIVES     BUSH WALKS  • ARCHERY • CLAY TARGET SHOOTING

Tel: 034 - 413 3559 Fax: 034 - 413 1817 Cell: 083 229 2116 Email: res@pakamisa.co.za www.pakamisa.co.za

Come and dive with the best Calypso Diving is a PADI 5-star IDC Centre based in Durban, South Africa. Calypso offers the full range of courses from Discover Scuba for beginners through to PADI Instructor courses.

South Africa is famous for its wrecks

along our treacherous coastline and Durban is no exception. With seven wrecks within a short boat ride from Durban’s beachfront, it’s no wonder that these are some of the most popular dives in the area. Although most of these wrecks are accessible only to Advanced divers, two of these are a technical divers dream.

Durban’s oceans are generally warm, and apart from the wrecks, our reef dives range from 12m to 40+ meters and are abundant with marine life. Durban offers some amazing photographic opportunities, especially for underwater wideangle with regards to the wrecks, and macro photography. Being based at uShaka Marine

World, we are fortunate enough to dive in the man made Lagoon Aquarium, abundant in reef fish and the Open Ocean Aquarium housing a variety of rays and pelagic fish. Both are exquisite dives and perfect if you do not have the available time required for the sea dives. Calypso Diving also runs a career development and internship

program for those interested in becoming qualified dive instructors.

Tel: +27 31 332 0905 • Mobile: +27 72 997 2900 • email: patv@calypsoushaka.co.za • www.calypsoushaka.co.za

Wi l d l a n d s Co n s e r v a t i o n Tr u s t Habitat Respite for Critically Endangered Species in the Karkloof By Simone Dale

Photograph: Stewart Nolan

he Wildlands Conservation Trust has purchased Dartmoor Farm (800ha) in the Karkloof District for some R3.3m, to help grow and consolidate the Greater Karkloof Conservation Area (3100ha including Dartmoor). The farm is being proclaimed as a protected area, and will be donated to Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife later this year. Says Wildlands Programme Manager, Dr Roelie Kloppers: “The Karkloof is rich in threatened and endemic biodiversity, which is protected in small, isolated conservation areas spread throughout the district. Dartmoor forms an important corridor linking the various fragmented pieces of land into a consolidated conservation area. Dartmoor has been at the top of Ezemvelo’s wish list for areas to bring under conservation for the last thirty years.”

Dartmoor was chosen because of its biodiversity; the irreplaceable habitat includes mist belt grasslands that support such critically endangered species as Oribi and Wattled Crane. By virtue of its crucial location, Dartmoor also links existing Protected Areas in the Karkloof conservation area to create a single, contiguous conservation area with a mix of government and private sector landowners. According to Ezemvelo Ecological Advice Coordinator for uKhahlamba, Ian Rushworth: “This area is one of the two most important Wattled Crane breeding areas in the country. Its value is critical from this perspective. The fact that it will be fenced and patrolled will make Wattled Crane chicks less vulnerable to attacks by feral dogs. The area also has the potential to become one of the more important Oribi conservation areas in the province. It could easily support two or three dozen Oribi, and the fences and patrols will reduce the risk of poaching by dog hunters. The purchase and donation of Dartmoor by Wildlands

to Ezemvelo is contributing directly to achieving our conservation objectives in the province.” Kloppers says the Wildlands Conservation Trust has granted R5 million to Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife this year to support formal conservation activities in the province. The new grant follows a R4,4 million grant made to Ezemvelo between 2007 and 2010 to support projects such as Wild Dog monitoring, and Bearded Vulture research. This time the grant is being used to support the provincial protected areas expansion plan. The Greater Karkloof Conservation Area will be integrated into Ezemvelo’s Stewardship Programme, which gives private and communal landowners the tools to protect their land and contribute to provincial conservation targets while receiving various incentives and benefits from the State for doing so. For more information please visit www.wildlands.co.za, or contact Dr Roelie Kloppers or Simone Dale on 033 343 6380.

Wildlands Conservation Trusts' vision is to be a centre of excellence for the restoration and conservation of natural

Spor t for the

Co n s e r v a t i o n o f o u r Wi l d H e r i t a g e

Bonitas Sunday Tribune 3 Cranes Challenge Raises R80 000 From the 25th to the 27th February 2011 Wildlands held the second running of the Bonitas Three Cranes Challenge, part of the Bonitas Wild Series. One hundred and eighty runners took to the forested hills and valleys of the Karkloof in the Natal Midlands for 3 days and just over 100km of trail running. Runners raised R80 000 to help support the running of the Karkloof Conservancy and the start-up costs associated with the proclamation and management of Dartmoor Farm (see opposite page). There were some of the runners comments: “The trails were out of this world. Beautiful, challenging and definitely out of the ordinary with those unexpected stings here and there! My favourite parts had to be the forest sections, I felt so blessed to be in the midst of such beauty.” “I have done a variety of running, trail and cycling races, but I have never seen such a well organised event. Arriving to such a beautiful environment was just the beginning” “The support out on the route was really special, finding a group of smiling faces on a mountain in the middle of nowhere was wonderful, especially when I found myself running all alone. The presentations in the evenings were interesting and informative and not only made me feel like I was part of something special, but also made me want to become more involved.” Thank-you to all who took part! For more information on the 3 Cranes Challenge visit www.3craneschallenge.co.za or e-mail Heidi Mocke: heidim@wildlands.co.za Photographs: Kelvin Trautman

ecosystems through the development of innovative socio-economic partnerships.

www.wildlands.co.za

Rooms Wi Peter Bendheim visits Didima in the Drakensberg and discovers that the great outdoors can easily be done in style and luxury

or some a true nature experience needs to be tough, rugged and free of any of the frills of everyday modern life. A sleeping bag, tent and some baked bean and Vienna mixture cooked over a portable gas stove. Radios, television or even mobile phones are definitely a no-no, and in the opinion of some folks, you should be able to rub two sticks together to make a fire.

However, nature can be experienced on different levels, and one should be able to do so without incurring the disapproval of the diehards. It should be quite ok to have a good stiff 5 hour hike, and then come back to one’s campsite and watch some TV, have a few drinks, enjoy some good food or play a game of pool. If this is what you are after, then Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife’s luxury camp at Didima in the Drakensberg is just the place for you. It’s located barely a kilometer from the Cathedral Peak Hotel and has extraordinary views of this particularly impressive part of the Drakensberg Mountains. So captivating are the views, especially given that the mountains are a constantly changing and weather dependant vista, that one could quite easily and comfortably never leave one’s patio or deck. My partner was quite happy to sit and read her book in these serene and majestic surroundings and felt no desire to go and get all hot and sweaty in the course of a 5-hour hike. Photographs © Peter Bendheim: A view of the San inspired

accommodation at Didima.

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Th A View

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While I am sure that many serious mountaineering expeditions have set off using Didima as a base, it would seem as if many of the visitors to the camp during our weekend had somewhat less ambitious ideals. There was a party of Americans, spending much of their time in the Central Lodge, drinking coffee and relaxing. Two Germans, and a Belgian friend were to be found either around the pool or the pool table, and a group of Australians and Brits told jokes and enjoyed long and relaxing meals in the resort’s excellent dining room.

Nature, Leisure, Sophistication and Business At the pool, we met a young, trendy and good-looking couple from Ladysmith, Lihle and Lunga Mayise. They had left their kids in the care of ‘Gogo’, and were here celebrating their 5th wedding anniversary in style. After a somewhat brave swim in the autumn waters of the pool on a blustery Saturday morning, they were about to don their trendy clothes and meet a dozen or so of their best friends for a celebratory lunch with champagne in the restaurant. It was a posh affair, and while they could have easily celebrated in a trendy city restaurant, they had wisely chosen the blend of nature and sophistication that is offered by Didima, resulting in a far more memorable anniversary. Besides leisure getaways, Didima does offer services that are aimed beyond the weekend backpacker. The camp has a state of the art glass-walled conference centre that can accommodate approximately 140 delegates, and caters for weddings in what must be one of the most splendid settings in Southern Africa. It has a dedicated honeymoon suite and plenty of accommodation for family and guests to overnight or perhaps stay a little longer.

Unique Architecture The 62 two-bedroom chalets at the resort have been designed to blend into the natural environment. Architecturally, they are styled as caves, in tribute to the San Bushmen who once roamed the Drakensberg, leaving a legacy of exquisite rock art at some 600 mountain sites. In fact, the whole camp is a tribute to this legacy, with a fine Rock Art Centre having been opened there in 2003. At this centre you can embark on a voyage of discovery, and learn in interactive fashion about the culture and lifestyle of the San. The Rock Art Centre is a must see for visitors to the Drakensberg, and the cultural contribution of the San is one of the major factors leading to the declaration of the area as a World Heritage site in 2000. From top: Lihle and Lunga Mayise from Ladysmith relax by the pool at Didima, the comfortable bar area, a front view of the San inspired accommodation and San rock art. Right: The crystal clear stream photographed on the way to Doreen Falls. 38

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David Bristow’s, Best Walks of the Drakensberg, 2003. Comments: Whilst the hike to the top of Cathedral peak affords you the chance

to stand on top of one of the Berg’s most famous free-standing peaks, the path from Orange Peel Gap to the summit involves hairy scrambling and should not be attempted by anyone with a fear of heights or who is not hiking fit. Distance: 19km round trip. Duration: 7-8 hours (Wildside editor took 10 hours). Grade: Extreme.

It would be difficult to have a less than pleasant stay at the resort. The chalets are well decorated and comfortable, and very clean. They have fully-equipped kitchens, braais, spacious bathrooms and living areas, and satellite TV in every room. At the Central Lodge, you will find an intimate lounge area, a friendly bar, and really good food at the Eland’s View restaurant. The food exceeded all expectations, and was freshly prepared and attentively served. That’s really important, because mountain air can wake up even the most dormant of appetites. There’s a pool table, which with my limited skills, I carefully avoided, and a shop that is well stocked with basic provisions as well as an assortment of quality souvenirs and memorabilia that are well priced and obviously mostly locally sourced. Nearby the Central Lodge are tennis courts, a swimming pool and a comprehensive play area for the youngsters. There is even a small, and independently operated spa on site to relax muscular

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strain picked up on that strenuous walk from your chalet to the dining room.

Ground zero for the Big Adventure On a more serious note, if you do feel like more strenuous activities, there are a number of interesting hikes to be had from the camp, ranging from two to nine hours in duration. Amongst others, there’s the simple amble to the pretty Doreen falls, a hike to Neptune’s Pool and the Marble Baths, or, the trek to Cathedral Peak itself, which is a ninehour sojourn best accompanied by experienced hikers. Some of the walks do require compulsory guides. We left the manicured bliss of the camp for the short walk to Doreen falls, and it was a most pleasant experience along the pristine waters of the river system. Didima is a great place to relax. With a good meal in your stomach, the TV and room lights firmly off, there can be

few more humbling and awe-inspiring experiences than stargazing on a clear night. With a billion stars etched like frozen drops of water against the pitchblack canvas of a night sky, you feel a sense of serenity and peace that none of the luxuries or mod cons can provide. And that’s the beauty of Didima, it’s all there for you to choose from… WILDSIDE Fact Tracker Didima Where: uKhahlamba Drakensberg, also known as the central ‘berg approximately 250km from Durban and 400km from Johannesburg. Rates: From R1 000 per night for a 2 bed chalet in a non-self catering unit, and R1 055 per night for a 2 bed chalet in selfcatering unit with a fully equipped kitchen. Luxury honeymoon suite R1 270 per night for the unit. Bookings: Tel: 033 845 1000 Web: www.kznwildlife.co.za

OUT OF THIS Jennifer Crawford discovered Zingela Safari and River Company and found the place and its people to be enchantingly extraordinary. Photographs: EDDIE CRAWFORD

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WORLD

he deep and wide ancient valley is all consuming as we bounce along a dusty, rutted road. Soaring mountains are covered in a mantle of pea green thornveld and acacia grassland with intermittent thickets - thanks to plentiful summer rainfall. The rains have also transformed the river below, the mighty Tugela River. It’s swollen, fast flowing, muddy in colour with white water rapids. It’s every bit the bolshie river I’ve always known the Tugela, or in Zulu, the Thukela to be. This is entirely different from the low level, clear and tranquil river it was during winter, much sought after by fly fishermen. We’re on the way to a place called Zingela Safari and River Company where the people are reluctant to say what it is and prefer to say what it’s not. Odd. According to their website, there are ‘no gold taps’. “No TV either,” bleats one of the teenagers as I’m mentioning what is not there. That’s the least of their worries I think as I glance down at the blackberry, clutched feverishly by the same teenager. I look to the mountains and smile. No cell phone signal either, thank you. We’d been fetched in Weenen, just outside of Estcourt and taken by a high clearance 4x4 deep into the Tugela River Valley. The peace of nature worked her magic, and we enjoyed AUTUMN 2011 WILDSIDE

This page: White water rafting during April at Zingela,

the mighty Tugela River, and a bath with a view at accommodation in ‘Larney Lane’.

Opposite page: A room at Dawson’s Creek in Larney

Lane, the outdoor en suite at House on the Hill, and the outdoor shower with river views, also at House on the Hill.

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the hour it took to travel 27km of dirt road with sections being more pothole than road and with big rocks scattered about too. Other sections were perfectly fine. You can take your own 4x4 but it’s hard work. Rather sit back, relax, enjoy the view. “Hi, welcome to Zingela, I’m Mark,” says a bearded, burly looking man who reminds me of Kingsley Holgate. Our tribe spills out of the 4x4 vehicle wide eyed and expectant. We’re metres from the fast flowing Tugela River lit gently by the late afternoon sun. Yuri, who’d been on the 4x4 vehicle with us, says the adults are in ‘Larney Lane’. The kids it seems will be staying in these nearby tent type thingys peeping out from the trees flanking the wide lawns that meet the river. I stride over with them to sort sleeping arrangements. They are not tents at all. I find the units are a mixed thatch, river stone and canvas structure, with an enclosed private outdoor shower with a canopy of trees as a ‘roof’. Aaaha this is what they mean by no gold taps as I glance down to the basin sans fancy taps. I pace around and ask Yuri if the adults couldn’t stay here… “You know, downgrade the kids?”. “Well, I think you should see Larney Lane first,” he says diplomatically. I knew our room was not going be a chalet, rondavel or tent.

Afresco in Larney Lane Larney Lane is a small sandy pathway above the floodplain that coils amongst the dense acacia trees behind the main lodge. There are ‘rooms’ off the pathway such as Hitchens with the largest double bed rock headboard in Africa, Dawsons Creek with a shower on a rock with a view of Africa, and Shayamoya with, in my opinion, one of the best positioned outdoor baths in Africa. All have sprawling views of the river. After I’ve seen our ‘room’ I understand why it’s easier to say what the accommodation at Zingela is not rather than what it is. In fact I’ve had to make up a word. Afresco. Yes, it’s Afresco. That’s a combination of Al fresco African style. It’s uninhibited outdoor-indoor-outdoor living. Another phrase I’ve had to make up for lack of description. It’s also uncomplicated yet comfortable, it’s bush safari but neither pretentious ethnic nor cheerless rustic. There are no doors or windows, no solid walls. Canvas flaps in the breeze, birds sing out from the en-suite which is a large reed enclosed area with an outdoor shower. Tree branches dangle and double as towel rails and the concrete floor is scattered with leaves. Zingela is about being in nature and part of it. It’s a place where small spiders may do the evening turndown, where a bat may hang around in your room, where giant months may flap through your bathroom. We saw tiny scorpions on our sandy pathway at night and when it comes to singing in the shower, Zingela takes on a new meaning because birds sit on nearby branches singing while you shower.

Pioneering Calverleys I look around at the thatch roof, the natural timber, rock and river stone that have been used from the surrounding area, and think this is the obvious way to do it. It wasn’t obvious back in 1983 when the concept of an eco-lodge was only being formed. But then again, Mark Calverley and his wife Linda are pioneers. It took brave people to come out to the great, wild, Tugela River Valley. Especially brave as Linda was pregnant with their third child and that rutted road had 23 gates that led to a rundown cattle farm. “I thought he was crazy. Mark said he’d take down the gates, turn it into a game farm. I was young, “says Linda with a smile coupled with an affectionate glance at Mark. Through professional hunting Mark supported their set up at Zingela which was also a camp for rafters and hunters and the place simply evolved from there. AUTUMN 2011 WILDSIDE

This page: The bedroom at

Shayamoya in Larney Lane. Opposite page: The adorable tame

meercat called Felix. Renowned rafter Graeme Addison. 46

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ingela

afari

“We didn’t plan it this way, it just happened. We had to use the materials we had here, it was the practical thing to do,” says Mark. Mark introduced game to the area over the years and allowed the land to return to its former wild and natural beauty and all the while added on a camp here and there. It may have tumbled haphazardly into what it is today, but it’s a sustainable and unique set up. There’s hunting and fishing in winter, white water rafting in summer and mountain biking, abseiling and guided walks any time of the year. There’s accommodation for 60 people. Now this I battled to grasp because all the accommodation is hidden away and it is no way a resort.

and

at Zingela. As meercats are social by nature, he will join you while you sit around and chat and next thing you

There’s a meercat on your foot A tame meercat called Felix who was given to Linda years ago, is a real little character and is a permanent resident

ompan

White Water Rafting… Riveting We were privileged to be taken white water rafting by Graeme Addison who pioneered river tourism in South Africa and is one of the most respected ‘river men’ in the country. He launched the definitive guide training scheme, published books on rivers and guiding, and continues to play a key role in the rafting industry. Graeme undertakes instruction courses at Zingela and from time to time does guiding there. The Tugela River provides exciting white water rafting, and the higher the water the greater the adrenalin rush. The river was full and we were at the tail end of the big water season which is from November to April. There is an excel-

Choose to suit your needs We were spoilt by being put in Larney Lane which is fully catered; although that’s not to say the rest of the accommodation is not good. Simply, different accommodation types cater for different needs. Zingela caters for large groups including big school groups, 21sts, 40ieths, weddings and team building and accommodation to suit groups is more basic. You can even erect tents if your guest list is that long. There is selfcatering and part self-catering, however do take note that the food is totally delicious, real good home fare. I rated Larney Lane the best– Hitchens, Dawson’s Creek, Shayamoya any of them. I also liked and could easily see a group of my family and friends chilling out at House on the Hill with an outdoor shower looking onto the river. Here, you have privacy as a group. But, if granny is coming along and thinks this is some kind of hotel, forget it, it’s not. My kids? They loved the big dormitory and the smaller units near the river and main camp. I’d imagine fishermen and young rafters wouldn’t mind kicking back at some of the cheaper options that are basic.

know you’ll find Felix fast sleep at your feet. Fortunately Felix does his job, as any self-respecting meercat would do, and when he sees a bird of prey in the sky, long before you have, he sets about warning you. Felix adds to the enchantment of Zingela.

Big View Walks Walking in this vast wilderness is special because of its remoteness and wild beauty. There’s no building in sight, no tarred road, no game vehicles driving by, no night light pollution, all of which makes it a place where you find yourself relaxing quickly. There are guided walks and during our stay we saw giraffe, zebra, kudu, impala, baboons and wild boar. You may also see blue wildebeest, nyala, bushbuck, mountain reedbuck, grey duiker, warthog, ostrich, red hartebeest, eland and water monitor. The nocturnals, which you’d be considered lucky to see, are leopard, caracal, aardvark, genet and porcupine. Then of course there is the fishing. The prime quarry is the sometimes elusive Natal yellow fish. These silver-yellow fish, survivors of low-water droughts, foods, and fish eagles, are what draws fly fishermen to Zingela in winter. However, we were there in rafting season, so raft we did.

lent 20km stretch of rapids and pools on this section of the Tugela Canyon, a short distance upstream from the main camp. Zingela has twice hosted the SA White Water rafting championships. The 8km ‘smell the roses’ experience sounded genteel enough, but there were certainly one or two rapids at around grade 3. Depending on the water level, rapids can reach a grade 5. Names like ‘finger rock’ and ‘washing machine’ add to the thrill. The teenagers are determined to go back next season to do the 20km trip with bigger rapids. The friendly qualified and experienced river guides enhanced the experience. They give a safety briefing and helmets and life-jackets are provided.

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WHAT ELSE IS IN THE AREA

R74

mnweni cultural centre

PRIVATE GAME RESERVE

065m

DIDIMA RESORT & ROCK ART CENTRE

MONK’S COWL NATURE RESERVE WILDSIDE Fact

athkin Peak 3148m

R103

Many rafters are novices, and no experiR602 ence is required. The rafting experience Ladysmith esiweni nambiti plains was huge fun, and it’s great for parents EXIT 230 zintulo umzololozo to do something with their children that R616 N11 NAMBITI the children particularlySPIOENKOP enjoy. NATURE RESERVE three tree hill The weekend slipped by all14toolodgequickly R103 and as it takes approximately 3 hours EXIT 220 to get to Weenen, and another hour on Bergville the dirt road, notwithstanding any other R74 Colenso delays, such as perhaps waiting for others on the transfer, a weekend is tooWinterton short if R74 you want to do two rafting trips. Other R74 than that, grab your sense of adventure, Frere R600 EXIT 194 and discover a unique place in a beautiCATHEDRAL N3 fulPEAK valley. caley lodge R103

Zingela

the nest drak. boys choir

Tracker

WEENEN NATURE RESERVE

WILDSIDE ZINGELA READER OFFER

R10 EXIT 179

champagne valley resort

drakensberg canopy tours falcon ridge bird monks cowl of prey centre camping and champagne Safari and River Company caravan park castle hotel

Escourt

R29

ERG SB EN AK DR

Accommodation: Larney Lane HitchINJISUTHI ens, Dawsons Creek,5 Shayamoya - ideal Mafadi 3450m NATURE RESERVE for couples, romantic and private. Eddies, ideal for families with two units on the same site, each with own toilet and R28 shower. GIANT’S CASTLE 6 NATURE RESERVE Hotel and Aloes: for family groups or friends, some with own outside fireplaces HIGHMOOR NATURE RESERVE J. Camp: Part catered or self-catered 7 tlong GiantsCastle 3314m with 4 en-suite thatched units with mud KAMBERG and reed walls and traditional earth8 NATURE RESERVE aba Ntlenyana 3482mfloors. kamberg rock art LOTHENI House on Hill: 5 bedrooms. Selfcentre 9 NATURE RESERVE catering, or join main camp for selected meals. Cost: Camping from R150 pppns including breakfast, self-catering from R300 VERGELEGEN pppns, catered from R750 NATUREpppns. RESERVE Activities and transfers are extra, but combination packages available. SANI PASS Activities: White water rafting, fishing, abseiling, paintball. Mountain bike trails sani pass but bring own full moon hotel horse 10 bikes, COBHAM STATEbut FOREST rides into Zingela not for novices and sani valley GARDEN lodge mustCASTLE be booked in advance. NATURE RESERVE 11 drakensberg hotel 8km R175 pp, or Himeville Cost: gardens Rafting R350 HIMEVILLE pp lake fornavarone 20km trip with lunch. Fly-fishing, NATURE RESERVE Underberg catch and release only, R100pp equipBUSHMANS NEK ment and guide, transfer R617 R100 return from Weenen. penwarn To get there: Zingela provides good details and a map. From Durban travel COLEFORD NATURE RESERVE to Estcourt, then Weenen which takes approximately three hours. From Pretoria to Weenen is four hours. From Weenen to Zingela is an hour. Bookings: Tel 036 354 7005 email zingela@futurenet.co.za Travel Tips: There is no cell phone signal. The end gps coordinates of the camp will lead you to the opposite bank – you will be lonely there. Take the transfer with Zingela unless you are an off-road enthusiast. Your vehicle is left safely at Zingela’s house in Weenen. Do not travel the 4x4 road without checking with the camp on road and river crossing conditions. Get directions and map from Zingela. Take a torch, binoculars, insect repellent, casual clothes.

WAGENDRIFT DAM NATURE RESERVE antbear guest house sengani horse trails

R103 EXIT 152 EXIT 146

hartford house

Mooiriver

hlatikhulu crane and wetland sanctuary

T P

EXIT 143 R103

WORLD HERITAG E S ITE

silver hill guest lodge

KARKLOOF NATURE RESERVE

Rosetta EXIT 132 EXIT 132

karkloof canopy tours

Nottingham Rd

riverside cottages

gasuta lodge

EXIT 125

ground cover

shuttleworth weaving bramleigh manor

UMGENI VALLEY NATURE RESERVE

R103

the lavender co.

dargyle valley pottery

EXIT 107

Howick

barrett’s country house

the woodturner

MIDMAR DAM 12

D522

EXIT 99

PIETERMARITZBURG

inversada

tillietudlem trout and game lodge

KWAZULU-NATAL

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Email Mark, zingela@zingelasafaris.co.za for details on the special Wildside Zingela Reader offer for fishermen and mountain bikers which includes guiding and/or partners stay free packages. There are a limited number of packages for this Wildside special. Zingela terms and conditions apply. R622 western agricultural college Email: zingela@zingelasafaris.co.za

EXIT 168

Champagne Castle 3374m

Weenen

The scenic 5000ha Weenen Game Reserve with the Bushman’s River flowing through a spectacular gorge in the reserve. There’s self-guided trails, guided walks, vulture feeding site, and game viewing. Black and white rhino, plains game, and an extensive bird list. Accommodation: Campground with 12 camping or caravanning sites, 7 with electricity connections, hot and cold water ablution facilities. A self contained 5 bed cottage next to a waterhole. A tented camp that can accommodate 20 adults or 30 children with cooking facilities and a freezer. R74Enquires: 033 845 1002 To book: 033 845 1000 email: info@kznwildlife.com

R617

Boston

R617

Bulwer

Flyfishing At Zingela With Yuri Janssen Yuri has an incredible record as an international fly fishing guide and manager with some of the world’s leading lodges and has guided in some of the most exciting destinations. He grew up on the banks of Umzimkulu River in the Drakensberg where his love of fly-fishing was born. Yuri recently returned from Russia where he was the operations manager at Northern Rivers Company on Russia’s Kola Peninsula, the world’s premier Atlantic Salmon Fly Fishery and the world’s only recognised Atlantic Salmon Reserve. He has returned to be part of the new Calverleys Camp on the banks of the Phongolo River, guide at Zingela and run fly-fishing clinics and takes trout trekking trips to Lesotho. In addition Yuri has accumulated an impressive resume of experience in the big game safari industry, having worked as a professional hunter, safari guide and camp manager for some of Africa’s leading safari companies. An exceptional guide and fly-tier extraordinaire, Yuri’s specialties lie in the pursuit of trophy trout, yellowfish, tiger fish and the exploration of new waters and wilderness areas. Yuri is also the author of several superbly written articles about fly-fishing. A recent article appeared in the January edition of Africa’s Original Flyfishing on the new Calverleys camp.

Duma Manzi

Eco Lodge & Spa

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A SPA IN A CAVE, AT THE BOTTOM OF A FORESTED VALLEY Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d never think that by travelling a mere hour from Durban you could find yourself in the wilderness, staring out from a game vehicle looking at buffalo on the plain. You can if you go to Duma Manzi Eco Lodge and Spa.

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D u ma

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M anzi

E co

L odge

S pa

nce you arrive at Duma Manzi at the crest of the RIVER VALLEY, you get into their game vehicle and they take you down to the bottom of the forested UMKOMAAS Valley to a sanctuary - a wellness and wildlife retreat offering a luxurious lodge and an extraordinary new spa.

The unusual spa in a cave tucked into the forest adds to that sense of refuge in the wilderness. The rocky cave was built near the lodge by Duma Manzi owner, Donald Perry, who, when I asked about the architect just smiled and said that there wasn’t one. The Perry family’s creativity, energy and passion has seen Duma Manzi grow steadily and the spa is a natural addition to the sumptuous lodge built on raised wooden platforms and decorated in an classy African style. It has a wide deck with views onto the river and sheer cliffs. There are four rooms with a dedicated pool for these rooms, five rooms with their own private plunge pool and a family suite. The rooms are situated in the forest to offer privacy and all are luxuriously appointed.

Private Sanctuary Slip on your complimentary white gown in your beautifully appointed room and pad your way along the raised wooden walkway that takes you through the forest to the cave. The gentle breeze dances in the forest, the sound of the river gurgles in the background and birds call out. The cave draws you in and along

“Responsible ecotourism includes programs that minimise the negative aspects of conventional tourism on the environment and enhance the cultural integrity of local people. Therefore, in addition to evaluating environmental and cultural factors, an integral part of ecotourism is the promotion of recycling, energy efficiency, water conservation, and creation of economic opportunities for local communities. For these reasons, ecotourism often appeals to environmental and social responsibility advocates.” Wikipedia.

Left: The African Rain Shower room. Right from top: The exterior of the ‘spa in a cave’, the lodge’s outdoor dining area, a private suite with pool, and a view of one of the well appointed rooms. AUTUMN 2011 WILDSIDE

its short shadowy pathways to sunlit rooms. When it comes to spas, this setting does not get any better. The grotto-like small icy plunge pool has a view into the forest as does the steam room alongside it. I challenge anyone to show me a steam room with view - a gorgeous view such as this one at Duma Manzi. There is also a Jacuzzi with a view into the forest. There are several treatment rooms in the cave where body treatments are offered such as those in the African Rain Shower room. Here you lie on a surprisingly comfortable wooded slated plinth while body treatments including exfoliation and wraps are done. In-between treatments the long suspended arm of shower heads gently rains your body to wash off product. Whilst I was lying there a drenched lime green praying mantis decided that it too wanted a treatment and proceeded to walk up and down the edge of the plinth. There are stand alone treatment rooms nestled in the forest with a view of the river and cliffs where the massages are done, as well as facials. The view from these rooms, as well the gentle breeze, makes them more suitable for massage than the cave treatment rooms to my mind as the rooms in the cave do not have a view. However, the cave offers a good body treatment sanctuary because the plunge pool, Jacuzzi and steam room are all there.

What is an eco lodge? Many lodges use the word eco-lodge with impunity, but Duma Manzi lives up to the inclusion of eco-lodge in its name. It is not because it is set on a 5000 hectare pristine wilderness area, or that

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Donald has reintroduced game, or that they strive to conserve the biological and cultural diversity but because Duma Manzi ticks the boxes that a real eco lodge and spa need to do which includes: low impact tourism; energy and water conservation; recycling; and the creation of economic opportunity for the local community. There are other carefully considered choices made by the Perry family for this lodge which shows their passion for an eco establishment such their selection of Dr Hauschka, a holistic skin care range organically certified and internationally recognised. Locally sourced essential oils and a small range of natural and organic products are supplied by Instinctive by Nature. The spa treatments done by an outstanding therapist, are focussed on the therapeutic and restorative for your total wellbeing. There are no ‘beauty’ treatments such as waxing. I’d planned to call the spa a ‘girl cave’ in protest to the much used terminology of ‘man cave’ but I can’t because there is no doubt that men will equally enjoy this recently opened spa and it also offers an ideal romantic escape. There are game drives and walks and with more than 300 species of birds, numerous butterfly species, buffalo, giraffe, zebra, blue wildebeest, a large variety of buck and mongoose, and many smaller mammals, predators and reptiles, walks are worthwhile. It certainly is a wellness and wildlife retreat and it’s waiting for you to discover it.

WILDSIDE Fact Tracker Duma Manzi Eco Lodge & Spa Costs: Spa treatments from R450 – R750 for facials, massages R350 to R500, body therapy from R300 to R680. All treatments offer a complimentary foot ritual. Accommodation from R1 695 pppns (U12 R795) including game drives, luxury accommodation, all meals, and lodge activities including fly fishing, mountain biking, and self guided walks. To get there: Travel on the N2 south, take the R603 Umbumbulu, turn left to the R624 Eston Road, turn left at the Duma Manzi signpost. From Durban it is an hour. There is a further approximate hour in their game vehicle down into the valley to the lodge. Travel Tips: It is malaria free, cell phone reception intermittent, book spa treatments on arrival to avoid disappointment, arrival and departure time is according to the lodge as you cannot take your own vehicle into the valley. If you are late, surcharges applicable. Transfers from Durban are available upon request. To book: Tel 082 653 3475 or 033 212 9418. Email: info@dumamanzi.co.za or reservations@dumamanzi.co.za About the land: Topographically the reserve consists of plateaus, steep densely wooded slopes, valley bottoms, drainage lines and a large central basin. The range in altitude is considerable, varying from 820 meters above sea level in the southwest to 430 meters on the banks of the Umkomaas River.

WILDSIDE DUMA MANZI READER OFFER Stay two nights and get a complimentary 45 minute back, neck and shoulder massage, per person per stay. Contact Duma Manzi for details.

Luxurious Boutique Hotels & Lodges

his spread of classy hotels and lodges offer the discerning traveller that sumptuousness that makes a breakaway something special. Each of these establishments ensures that their guests are more than comfortable, and provide all the trimmings that takes the establishment into the luxurious category. They also all offer distinctive activities in special environments. Indulge your senses with delicious food, soak in exceptional views, revel in the comfort of your room, and energise yourself in nature at any one of these luxurious establishments.

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Jozini Dam, KZN

Jozini Tiger Lodge Jozini Tiger Lodge is situated on the banks of the picturesque Jozini Dam in the heart of the Kingdom of the Zulu with its rich heritage and natural beauty, while the ruggedness of the Lebombo Mountain Range is completed by luxurious amenities. The views are breathtaking. The hotel is incredibly positioned overlooking the Jozini Dam and is easily accessible from both Durban and Gauteng. There is also a road to the Kruger Park via Swaziland. The hotelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s perfect positioning is ideal for weekends away, family holidays, conferencing, and international tour groups this will be a must visit property which will be photographed and spoken about extensively. The accommodation at Jozini Tiger Lodge consists of 60 bedrooms accommodating 162 persons with 36 classic standard bedrooms, 21 family loft bedrooms and 3 deluxe suites. The rooms offer comfort and luxury with breathtaking views

overlooking Lake Jozini. All rooms at the lodge are air conditioned and en-suite with both bath and shower facilities, tea/coffee, satellite television and a mini bar fridge. The development will be a four star facility of which phase one will consist of 60 bedrooms. There will be 48 thatched bedrooms and 12 thatched family loft rooms. The main lodge hosts an array of amenities including a top class restaurant, private lounge bar, conference and wedding facilities, a wellness centre, and playroom. Game reserves in the area include: Hluhluwe-iMfolozi, Mkhuze, Ndumo, Tembe Elephant Park and Phongolo on the eastern shore of the Jozini Dam. From R980 per room which sleeps two on the weekends including breakfast. 031 312 6250 eres@lifehospitality.com www.signaturelifehotels.com

Maputaland Coast, Northern KZN

Thonga Beach Lodge

Set on the pristine shores of the Maputaland Coast in the iSimangaliso Wetland Park, Thonga Beach Lodge is the ideal place to discover one of the last unspoilt wilderness beaches left in South Africa. Mabibi is a place of snorkelling reefs, coastal forests, rolling grasslands and coastal bush, shimmering lakes and exquisite sandy beaches. The 12 thatched suites in Robinson Crusoe-chic have been carefully constructed in the coastal dune forest to ensure minimum impact on the environment whilst still ensuring maximum guest comfort and all within sauntering distance of the beach. Some suites offer sea views, whilst others are set within the dune forest and all suites are air-conditioned. Thonga Beach Lodge is about fully experiencing this fascinating paradise and the following non-motorised activities are included in the rate: Lake Sibaya which is only 6km from the lodge where you can enjoy kayaking in the early morning, or take

a drive in the afternoon for sundowners whilst spotting hippos. Snorkelling at low tide at the lodgeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own tidal pool and fascinating rock pool to explore, cultural tours to the local Mabibi Community and guided forest walks to spot the abundant birdlife. In addition to these activities you can enjoy scuba diving with our experienced dive crew and head out into Indian Ocean on the open ocean experience if you prefer to stay above the surface. Enjoy sundowners in the bar lounge or full moon cocktails on the beach deck under the Coastal milkwood trees. A current three night package of R 6,690 per person includes accommodation, all meals per, non-motorised activities, two scuba dives excl equipment hire. A forest view room costs R2 290 pppns including all meals, one game walk or drive a day. 035 474 1473 res@isibindi.co.za www.isibindiafrica.co.za

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Northern KZN

Salt Rock, North Coast, KZN

Thanda Winner of the 2010 World Travel Awards as ‘World’s Leading Luxury Lodge’, Thanda Private Game Reserve is situated 23km north of Hluhluwe in northern Zululand, and is set on a 14 000-hectare Big 5 private game reserve. Thanda, meaning ‘love’ in Zulu, unites romantic decadence and exclusivity with Zulu culture and wildlife. The nine luxury bush villas at the main lodge have private infinity pools, viewing decks, salas, lounges, and fireplaces. Public facilities include a lounge, library, dining room, boma, wine cellar, cigar bar, business centre and viewing decks. The royal private villa can accommodate 10 people, as a unit or five separate suites. Each suite is individually decorated and private, with own viewing deck. Public facilities include a boma, library, cellar, business area, heated pool and a deck overlooking a waterhole. The tented camp is colonial safari style, offering a luxurious

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Fairways Boutique Hotel bush experience in five tents with viewing decks and ensuite canvass bathrooms. Public facilities include a dining tent, a boma area, and a sala consisting of an ‘open-air’ lounge and a splash pool. The air-conditioned honeymoon tent offers a sophisticated mix of romance, privacy and refined comfort in the heart of the African bush. There’s a king-sized bed, a comfortable separate lounge area and an outdoor shower and Jacuzzi. Rates vary greatly. Currently there’s a two night mother’s day package in a luxury tent from R4 800 pp including all meals, two game drives per day, local wine with meals and a stone body massage. The romance package is R18 090 per person sharing for a three night stay in a luxury villa, all meals, two game activities per day, romantic bush dinner and spa treatment. 035 573 1899 or 0861 842 632. reservations@thanda.co.za www.thanda.com

Fairways Boutique Hotel is positioned close to new Durban airport King Shaka and situated across the road from the main swimming beach in Salt Rock. Opened in December 2007 it has been exclusively designed with just 12 luxury suites for the discerning holiday maker or business person and lavishly appointed with mahogany furniture throughout. All the suites have a bath and shower, bath robes, mini bar, Dstv, balconies and air conditioning. A breakfast patio restaurant, beautiful gardens, pool, jacuzzi and ample secure off street parking complete the picture. The hotel offers scrumptious English and continental style breakfasts and delicious three course dinners. Conference packages are available. Salt Rock offers a tranquil village like ambience. Nearby to bustling Ballito which offers shopping malls, movie theatres, numerous dining options and exciting night life. Deep sea and surf fishing, dolphin and whale

spotting, windsurfing, micro lighting are all close by. Salt Rock, 47kms north of Durban and just 20kms from the new Durban Airport, on the KwaZulu-North Coast, is known as ‘The Pearl’ of the Dolphin Coast. It is flanked by golden beaches and the warm Indian Ocean. The main swimming beach is protected by shark nets and lifeguards and also boasts a large tidal pool for the younger ones. Fairways is centrally located but at the same time peaceful and relaxing. Transfers are available from King Shaka Airport. From R595 pppns including breakfast. Ask about midweek specials Pam 082 925 2239 or 082 3751529 or 032 525 4861 info@fairwayshotel.co.za www.fairwayshotel.co.za

uKhahlamba Drakensberg, KZN

Montusi Mountain Lodge Montusi Mountain Lodge was planned, built and is managed by the owners, the Carte family. With three generations of Drakensberg resort experience the family has developed this lodge to provide the best possible ‘Berg holiday for guests. The location was chosen because of the spectacular views of the Amphitheatre mountain. Each of the fourteen suites, the dining room, lounge, Phumleni and veranda take full advantage of the vistas and one of the most iconic sky-lines in South Africa.

horses, play tennis, catch trout, swim laps in the unique naturallook pool, take their mountain bikes out on the 50km network of trails or enjoy a relaxation massage, a good book and a delicious cappuccino in the main lounge. Montusi’s kitchen offers imaginative and sumptuous cuisine. A favourite is the beef fillet… arguably the “tenderest” you can get. Every menu offers something new and exciting, and a few classics that complete every South African dining experience.

The suites stand apart in the garden and have either one or two bedroom, en-suite with both a bath and separate shower, a lounge with flatscreen TV, DVD player, gas fireplace, tea/coffee, fridge, and a private patio where guests can soak up the vast open space.

With the spectacular location, great food and luxurious accommodation it is the attention to detail that sets Montusi apart. Fresh flowers in the suites, happy banter with the owners in the bar, local knowledge and a genuine vested interest in guests’ Berg experience makes Montusi one of SA’s top escapes indeed.

Montusi is set on a 1000 hectare nature estate so guests can take part in daily guided hikes to the waterfall or bushman paintings, ride happy

From R1200 pppns including dbb 036 438 6243 info@montusi.co.za www.montusi.co.za

Waterberg, Limpopo

Zebula Golf Estate & Spa Zebula Golf Estate and Spa is the only 4 star graded golf estate, nature reserve and spa in Africa, located on 1600 hectares of African bushveld, nestling under the Waterberg mountain range only two hours from OR Tambo Airport in Johannesburg. Signature Life Hospitality has signed up Zebula which is a perfect combination for all leisure and business visitors. Signature Life believes a safari in Africa should leave an indelible signature on the soul and has started to rethink the game lodge experience by creating a resort experience in a wildlife context for the new age safari traveller with a range of interactive experiences. Zebula offers luxury bush chalets, lodge suites, and private luxury homes. The diversified accommodation provides 350 beds and is flexible and suitable for families, conferences, international tour groups and private nature travellers. Restaurants offer an international contemporary menu and private dining choices can be tailored to suit guests needs.

Relax at the Spa, which has seven treatment rooms, a raised deck for ‘Out of Africa’ open air treatments and a bird garden with two Jacuzzis. There is an indoor heated pool, steam room and world class therapists, to ensure your treatments are memorable. The main conference facilities seats 120, Bush Willow 30, Nyala Nook 40, Waterberg Lodge 30 and Eagles Nest on the top level of one of the homes, can accommodate up to 35. Zebula is two hours from O. R. Tambo and 1 ½ hours north of Pretoria on a tarred road. The Waterberg Region, is the closest African bushveld north of the cities of Johannesburg and Pretoria and is malaria free. From R1 700 for two people in the bush lodge weekdays, R 1 950 for two people on weekends. Meals excluded. The four bed houses start at R3 300 per night for the house, while six beds are R6 750 per night for the house. 031 312 6250 eres@lifehospitality.com www.signaturelifehotels.com AUTUMN 2011 WILDSIDE

Umngazi Pondo Pedal • A fresh Wild Coast MTB Challenge An exciting new 3 day mountain bike (MTB) challenge - the Umngazi Pondo Pedal - has its inaugural cycle on the Wild Coast from 1 – 5 June 2011. Competitors will endure 30 to 35kms each day of varied terrain, starting and finishing at Umngazi River Bungalows & Spa 20 kms south of Port St Johns. The gear-grinding MTB routes will take competitors from the

rolling hills of the coast to the Umngazana Wetland. Each day’s route is unique and incorporates single track, jeep track, cattle paths and some sharp climbs and steep descents. Molly Barkes, Umngazi River Bungalows & Spa Marketing Manager hopes that the local community will benefit from the event. ‘Umngazi since inception has had a close relationship with the local

community. From training, employment to purchasing fresh produce and educating children, we share a common purpose in ensuring that the community benefits from us being here.” But it’s not all about pushing muscles. Competitors will be able to enjoy the sights and sounds that have made Umngazi River Bungalows & Spa one of the most talked

about holiday destinations in South Africa. Afternoons can be spent on expansive white sandy beaches or taking in the rugged terrain, teeming with birdlife, fishing or simply relaxing around the pool. The luxurious spa, with its magnificent sea views, is an ideal escape. For more information or to book go to www.umngazi. co.za

Mbotyi River Lodge • Escape the crowds There is no better way of escaping the hustle and bustle than spending an unforgettable few days on the Wild Coast. Situated 26 km from Lusikisiki in the wild erness area at the mouth of the Mbotyi River is Mbotyi River Lodge.

Mbotyi River Lodge is in a

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perfect position for those looking for a tranquil holiday or for the adventurer wanting to experience and explore the many beautiful wild treasures this coast has to offer. The Lodge offers comfort, style, friendly service and hearty home style cuisine. Mbotyi River Lodge also

offers a range of hiking trails along beautiful beaches, up on the grassy escarpment overlooking the sea and through indigenous forest. Mbotyi comes to life in June/ July when divers and wildlife enthusiasts from all over the world descend to be part of the Sardine Run.

Sardine Run Mbotyi River Lodge is a good place to stay to possibly get sight of the annual Sardine Run - an exciting and incredible phenomenon ... an ocean extravaganza. Contact mbotyi@pondoland. co.za or telephone 039 253 7200.

Nature Guiding in Zululand You’ve always wanted to be the guide rather than the guest haven’t you? If not perhaps you wished you knew far more about wildlife and the environment. Either way, it seems there is no better place to do this than in Northern-KwaZulu-Natal.

Bhejane Nature Training tells us why Nature Guiding is one of those dream jobs envied by many. While it is hard work, the rewards are numerous. There’s the typical image of a guide in an open game viewing vehicle with guests in the back, ready with binoculars and cameras, viewing the Big 5. While this picture rings true for many areas in South Africa, guiding in Zululand takes on a different dimension because of the biodiversity – biodiversity that according to Dr. Ian Player overtakes that of the Kruger National Park and the Okavango Delta. Working in such a diverse area offers the nature guide many possibilities for specialisation.

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So what does it mean to be a Field Guide in Zululand? Nelson Mandela said that the iSimangaliso Wetlands Park is the only place on earth where the world’s oldest land mammal (rhino) and the world’s biggest terrestrial mammal (elephant) share an ecosystem with the world’s oldest fish (coelacanth) and the world’s biggest marine mammals (whales). As a Zululand guide, you can do a Big 5 Hluhluwe-iMfolozi game drive on one day and birding in the Mkuze Fig Forest on the next. You could either go tigerfishing on the Jozini Dam or head off to do some frogging around the wetlands. Then there’s diving the Sodwana Bay

Coral Reefs, and doing a turtle tour at Kosi Bay. The coastline offers unique opportunities for guiding on horseback, while many guides work on boats and kayaks. (The Field Guides Association of Southern Africa, (FGASA) launched a new guiding qualification for Marine Guides, that is gaining recognition through other regions of the sub-continent as a good entry-level for guiding in Marine Protected Areas. ) The combination of unique terrestrial and marine eco-systems of Zululand and the Elephant Coast makes this an exciting region for any field guide to work and pursue his/her passion for wildlife and the environment.

Birding Guide – Golden Pipit spotted. Working as a specialist bird guide in Zululand can be most rewarding, as was recently seen with the flocks of birders and ornithologists that streamed to the Pongola Nature Reserve to see the rarely spotted golden pipit. Within two weeks of the sighting of the golden pipit (tmetothylacus tenellus), other rare vagrants such as the buff-breasted sandpiper (tryngites subruficollis) and the pectoral sandpiper (calidris melanotos) were spotted at Muzi Pan. For many guides in the region this offered the opportunity of adding 3 very rare vagrants to their recorded sightings within a period of only 3 weeks. Reserves such as Ndumo and Mkuze have long been rated the top birding reserves in Southern Africa, and while this is spectacular on its own, it is even more impressive when one considers that Ndumo is next to Tembe Elephant Park with is sand forest habitat and home to Africa’s largest tuskers.

Butterfly Guide

Change your life, Change our World!

Become a part of the Zululand Conservation Legacy...

Bhejane Nature Training offers an exciting and comprehensive one year Nature Guide Course in Zululand, South Africa. (6 months training followed by 6 months placement.) Nature training has never been this exciting, this diverse and ﬁlled with so much opportunity! Join us now for one of a kind career training, or a gap year programme. We also offer shorter courses and custom made courses for special interest groups. Courses accredited by the Field Guides Association of Southern Africa (FGASA). For more information visit: www.bhejanenaturetraining.com Email: info@bhejanenaturetraining.com Tel: +27 837263826

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be captivated. It is floristically rich and has an intense tropical feel. The forest is noted for its variety of orchids and fascinating plants that include the giant-leaved streptocarpus (streptocarpus candidus), clivias (clivia miniata) and a large fern called didymochlaene truncatula, which has fronds extending to two and a half meters in length.”

Butterfly Guide Amon Ndlovu is full of praise for the regions high diversity of butterfly species. The Marine Guiding favourable climate means butterfly guides can work year round as there are always an abundance of spe-Proof FGASA Marine Guide Freya van de Wiel, adds that the Elephant Coast, Artwork cies to be found to share with guests. Amon is also is recognised as the most biologically diverse area along the entire South Is all Instructor the advert for copy / information on the advert correct? includes not only diving and snorkelling a FGASA guide and works as a Junior African coastline, and guiding Bhejane Nature Training, where Does field guiding stuamongst Africa’s southern most coral reefs but also viewing turtles nesting the advert display the correct website address? dents learn how to follow in his footsteps, to become and humpback whales migrating through the area. Have you read through the advert checking for typos or spelling errors? specialist butterfly guides. The rocky shores of the Elephant Coast is also filled with many unique Is the advert above approved for publication? treasures for guides to interpret to their guests – one example is the very interesting bouton’s skink Botanical Diversity If “YES” please email: production@tisgo.co.uk confirming approval of the advert for publication. If “NO” please email: production@tisgo.co.uk clearly detailing all the required amendments. – possibly South Afica’s only marine skink, that Bhejane Nature Training Instructor, Ryan Tippet, can be found exclusively is a FGASA Level 3 Advanced Guide who has been on the rocky shores of guiding in Zululand for six years and is still in awe Black Rock at Kosi Bay. of the botanical diversity of the region. Exploring Northern KwaZuluareas such as the Ntendeka Wilderness and Ngome Natal is an absolute Forest, Ryan says that: mecca for nature guiding, “My first impression of the forest was one of so come and join us. amazement. It seemed like I was in a fairy tale, with everything festooned with mosses, orchids and ferns. Anyone with even a passing interest in plants will

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Villa Lara L land u dno

Villa Lara, a Cape Cod style home positioned in the last pleat of the hillside in the elite Llandudno residential area delivers cinematic views of mountain and ocean to guests who will find themselves ensconced in comfortable luxury. Words: Jennifer Crawford Photos: Eddie Crawford The house has a quiet calm about it, enhanced by framed spaces complemented by natural light which dances through large windows with picture perfect views. Walls are graced with world-renowned photographer Chris Simpsonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s work which includes idyllic seascapes, interesting people, and infinite dunes and the well known Allee des Baobabs photograph of his. Chris designed the house and his keen eye for clean lines in his photography is pleasantly evident in the structure of the house. Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a loftiness to the house too induced by the giant sized but beautiful space with a near triple volume ceiling otherwise known as the lounge. There are oodles of light and space, and a refreshing lack of clutter. Water features accentuate interesting corners and outside areas and add to the peacefulness of the place.

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Luxurious Rooms There are four luxurious double bedrooms, three with views, but one room in particular commanding incomparable views of ocean and mountain and in its en suite with the bath, shower and loo having views like the bedroom too. You can lie in your bed and soak up the view or, as with the other two rooms, step outside on to the upper deck. Attention to detail like soft percale cotton is a reminder of the luxury in this house which has an easy and enjoyable casualness to it too. There’s a spacious deck that houses a heated swimming pool downstairs and numerous lovely spaces where you can either curl up on a chair under a tree with a good book, or sit around a table and sip on your wine as you watch the dramatic changes of the sky. The kitchen spills onto the dinning and decking area downstairs, while all the spaces have the same big ocean views each time you turn. One of the rooms is a private cottage with an en suite while all three of the other rooms, two being en suite, are upstairs. Easy access to Llandudno beach makes Villa Lara a desirable place to be based to explore not only beaches, but all that the Cape has to offer from many nearby fine restaurants, to a short distance into town. There’s a butler service, and the people looking after you during your stay will make sure your every need is taken care of.

WILDSIDE Fact Tracker Villa Lara – Llandudno Cost: From R15 000 per night up to R25 000 per night depending on the season with minimum stays during peak periods. The price is for the entire house per day – three double bedrooms in main house and guest cottage which can sleep two adults and two children. The price includes breakfast and local wine and malt. Contact: Tel 021 790 4545. Email: info@villalaracapetown.com

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T R A I L

R U N N I N G

Running Wild Trail running is a new and growing sport in South Africa that sees runners leave the beaten track and head out to interesting off-road trails. Here James Hallett gives insight into this sport which is also about adventure and discovery.

It’s 5am on the KwaZulu-Natal South coast and the sun’s rays are beginning to pierce the flawless horizon like fiery spears from the ocean’s depths. Having rained heavily the night before, and with a crisp coolness to the somewhat motionless air, we knew that today’s run was going to be memorable wasted no time in readying ourselves for the trail that lay ahead. We were at the Umdoni Park, a forested paradise where glorious fauna and flora thrive. Situated about an hour’s drive from Durban, thick bush and the tall canopy of indigenous trees give way to rolling grassland, as the 220-hectare park tumbles seaward towards the rocky

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coastline below, a place where stricken ocean vessels have seen their peril. The environmental significance of this park seemed to emit from everything around us as if a magical aura existed within. With trails laid down almost a century ago and the ancient

Umdoni trees whispering our names, it wasn’t long before we were stretching our legs on the well-maintained trails to be found here. As a relatively new sport in South Africa, and one not yet commonly recognised, trail running is seeing growth

11 Trail Tips ahead for a variety of cir• Plan cumstances. Carry food, water and clothing for all weather conditions. Don’t forget sunscreen.

your friends where you’re • Tell going before you leave - if you don’t return, they’ll know where to begin looking for you.

a trail before you begin • Research your run. Consult trail guide-

Trail Running Events

Photograph: Motion Pixel -

www.motionpixel.co.za

amongst people searching for that exciting and somewhat primal appeal of running off-road. And why wouldn’t they? Our country has a dramatic landscape offering a myriad of trails out there to discover. From the Drakensberg to the dramatic coastline of the southern Cape, every individual who chooses to take up trail running is discovering a new adventure around every twist and turn of the proverbial single track.

On a more social level, enter one of the many high quality trail running events throughout southern Africa and you will not only enjoy the thrill of preparing for race day but also the heightened adrenaline rush as the gun goes at the start line. Whether it’s a 10km route in a nearby forest or a multi-day monster over 200km through the desert, there is something for everyone looking to put their competitive spirit to the test. Often staged within areas that include the far reaches of the Kalahari, the mountainous peaks of the Eastern Cape and the majestic coastline of the Wildcoast, listen out for the stories from adventurers who have taken part. I can guarantee that it won’t be too long before your next training run will be alongside someone who has a tale to tell from his or her experience at one of our country’s iconic trail running races. Running on a remote mountain path or a rocky coastal trail holds an appeal that we should not deny ourselves of. Our natural instinct is to run, not because of fear, or because of survival, but because of a deep sense of enjoyment that is ignited within us when faced with a natural terrain that challenges our every stride. Perhaps this is why we run trails, to escape back to nature, away from the city with nothing more than our legs and our heart powering us through a complicated world. Or maybe it’s the thrill of discovering personal achievement and defining limitations. Trail running is an individual connection with the earth, a symbiotic and spiritual relationship that can only be truly experienced between you and the ground you run on.

books or route maps if available and chat to people who may have already run the trails before.

the land owners/manage• Call ment before you go, to ensure the trail is safe and open to the public.

trails for your level of fit• Select ness. If you’re accustomed to

running at sea level, for instance, don’t go on a trail run on your first day at major elevation.

on well-travelled and well• Run marked trails. If you’re going

into the backcountry put a map and compass or GPS into your rucksack and know how to use them.

running with a more • Consider experienced trail runner. There’s

a variety of online social networks, such as SA Trail community (www.itrail.co.za)

out for loose rocks, and • Watch other potentially dangerous hazards on the trail.

the rules of the trail on • Obey which you’re running. aware of the natural • Remain surroundings. Don’t venture off trails, don’t pick flowers or break vegetation unnecessarily and don’t litter.

enough time so that you • Allow are off the trail well before darkness falls.

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Wind Bag

by David Muirhead

ANCIENT OF DAYS Generally speaking, with the exception of tortoises (and we all know how bored stiff they must be), growing old is not a major problem if you’re an animal in the bush. The first sign of a rheumatic twinge,

the first dim eyed stumble, and a pack of wild dogs zooms in and tears you to pieces. It’s all over in about forty seconds, or so I’m told. All that’s left are a few unpalatable shreds at the center of a circle of jackals, vultures and bemused gerontologists. Living a long life in the wild, living a life at all, depends upon being in prime condition. You not only have to look the part, all the parts need to be working at optimal efficiency. If your carnivorous neighbours even think you’re about to unscrew the lid on a bottle of aspirins you’re a goner. Forget about headaches in the jungle, you’ve got to be mentally alert, every synapse greased and ready for action. At a microseconds notice you need to be able to leap twenty feet into the air, set a new land speed record across the savanna dodging bushes and boulders, or do something else that’s physically fantastic and innovative. The moment you can’t, you’re lunch. Mother Nature, a flint-eyed, granitejawed battleaxe if ever there was one, didn’t bother over much about the down slope of life because getting old was never part of the plan. If your joints are beginning to creak and you keep forgetting where they put the waterhole, that’s tough. You’re yesterdays model, obsolete; you were never meant to still be around anyway so there’s no point in running to mama. She couldn’t give a

damn because you’ve had your turn on the roundabout. And like it or not she’ll probably tell you to stop sniveling and go and play in a pool of piranhas. That’s why animals aren’t too concerned about the future. They don’t have a pension plan because they’re not going to be around long enough to collect on it. On the long and winding road to the Shady Pines Assisted Living Facility, things are very different. We humans are not just interested in living as long as possible, we seem to have become obsessed by it, at least in the western world. Forget about David Beckham, Methuselah is now the ultimate role model. In the past relatively few people made it into their sixties or seventies, let alone being around long enough to have a small army of descendants standing by the rocking chair to help huff and puff and blow out one hundred birthday candles. Now that’s a ho-hum event. Elderly people were revered back then probably because everyone figured that if you’d managed to live so long - fifty six, wow - then you must be shrewd and know a thing or too. You were worth talking to. These days we’ve got the Internet and most of the old crocks clogging up the highways and byways of life in the twenty first century don’t even know how to use it. People tend to be wiser at nine than they are at ninety, or at least more clued up about the real world they live in.

to an over ripe old age? Why are billions and billions spent on trying to postpone the inevitable, to make an increasingly alien world a tad more audible and a little less out of milky focus? Why are there so many super expensive pills and potions and surgical procedures to help dress up old mutton as spring lamb, as my dear and not so old mother used to say. I suspect the answer has everything to do with those zillions of dollars. I don’t think most people actually want to grow old, decrepit and dependant on wheelbarrows full of pills and grumpy nurses. I think most of us would prefer to clock out long before we had to wear nappies again. Perhaps we’ve spent too long listening to the advertising: how great is science, the new religion; that the life you’ve lived is all there is, so stretch it out as long as you possibly can. On second thoughts things probably aren’t so very different from what happens in the bush after all, only the methodology of the predators varies. The dens of the human equivalent of wild dogs are not to be found in the Kruger Park but rather in the plush offices of gleaming pharmaceutical and medical complexes on the shores of Lake Geneva and places like that. When they’ve finally done with you, not in forty seconds but after years and years, the only scrap left is your wallet. And that’s empty.

So what’s the attraction? Why are people apparently so determined to live

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KwaZulu-Natal

ELEPHANT COAST / DRAKENSBERG Field Guide & Nature Training

Creating awareness trough Wilderness info@bhejanenaturetraining.com Professional Field Guide (6 m) FGASA Level 1 (30 days) FGASA Trails Guide (30 days) Next Level 1 course Starts 5 October â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;09 Now operating from a new unfenced camp in the Thanda Private Game Reserve, KZN

www.bhejanenaturetraining.com Contact:

083 726 3826

Muzi Pan Canoe Adventures

Community based accredited canoe adventure guides on Muzi Pan

Tel: Themba 073 161 8189

WILDSIDE TRAVEL & ADVENTURE GUIDE

THE PLACE TO BE FOUND

Contact Tora Roberts to advertise in the KwaZulu-Natal Elephant Coast Travel & Adventure Guide: Cell: 082 376 9115 Fax: 086 671 1505 Email: tora@wildsidesa.co.za

Guided birding trails KOSI BAY Comfortable self catering lodge and luxury guesthouse set among tall trees in a quiet rural area close to beaches, lakes & game parks.

Tel. (035) 592 9728, 072 446 1525 www.kosi.co.za

THENDELE GIANT’S CASTLE DIDIMA HILLTOP MPILA NTSHONDWE MIDMAR MANTUMA

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SODWANA ST LUCIA ESTUARY CAPE VIDAL UMLALAZI KOSI BAY AMATIGULU ORIBI GORGE INJISUTHI MONKS COWL KAMBERG LOTHENI COBHAM GARDEN CASTLE HIGHMOOR RUGGED GLEN MOUNT CURRIE NDUMO WEENEN SPIOENKOP PHONGOLO VERNON CROOKES CHARTERS CREEK FALSE BAY PARK CHELMSFORD WAGENDRIFT

Tennis Court

Restaurant / Tea Garden

Conferencing & Functions

Safari Tents

Group Accommodation wh260 4ma y2009

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Information For details visit our website www.kznwildlife.com

Bookings

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All reservations regarding accommodation or wilderness

trails should be made through

the Head Office of Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife in Pietermaritzburg.

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Enquiries

Should you have any enquiries,

please contact our Reservations

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office on +27(0) 33 845 1000

Alternativly, detailed information

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is available on our website, be

advised that the information on this page is subject to change.

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RESERVATIONS TEL: +27 (0) 33 845 1000

FAX +27 (0) 33 845 1001 or bookings@kznwildlife.com

Loyalty Clubs Tel +27 (0) 33 8451011/13 Fax 086 5058892

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