Wildside Magazine Winter 2010 by rod macleod

WILDSIDE

T H E

M A G A Z I N E

T H A T

T A K E S

Y O U

T H E R E

E C O T R AV E L • O U T D O O R A D V E N T U R E • C O N S E R VAT I O N

NIKON PHOTO COMPETITION

KICK BACK IN THE

BERG

WILDCOAST

NAMBITI LUXURY

BEACH BREAK WINTER R21.95

AN HOUR OUTTA TOWN

ESSENTIAL FORESTS

PRO-TIPS BIRD PHOTOGRAPHY

HI-TEC WINNERS

MAROT & SANDERS 0811/8923 F

Wildside would like to wish Bafana Bafana all the best for the World Cup – "Show us the thunder – Laduma (la-dooooooooo-mah)."

Perspectives Wildside welcomes guests from around the world to our beautiful country and wishes that each and every person has a memorable stay and that they go back to their home countries as ambassadors for South Africa. We also hope that our visitors find time to experience our country’s biodiversity, be it in the mountains, the bush or at the coast. This edition shows a spread of options and, for South Africans who want to escape during the holidays, there are lots of places offering specials. Also in this edition is the annual corporate social investment feature where we pay tribute to sustainable projects being undertaken by corporate companies which significantly contribute to directly to transforming and improving people’s lives. WILDSIDE Vol 10 No 2 of 4 2010 Winter Edition EDITOR Rod MacLeod – Cell: 082 782 3150 E-mail:rod@wildsidesa.co.za MANAGING EDITOR Jennifer Crawford – Cell: 082 329 1739 E-mail: editor@wildsidesa.co.za EDITORIAL All requests, submissions, including letters: editor@wildsidesa.co.za ADVERTISING SALES Tora Roberts – Tel: 031 767 1512 Cell: 082 376 9115 – Fax: 086 6711 505 E-mail: tora@wildsidesa.co.za Robyn Shillaw-Botha – Tel: 021 462 4292 Cell: 082 795 5995 / 083 629 8818 E-mail: robyn@wildsidesa.co.za PRODUCTION Editorial Offices Wildside Publishing PO Box 2292, Prestondale, 4021 KZN SUBSCRIPTIONS www.wildsidesa.co.za PUBLISHERS Wildside Publishing cc PRINTERS CTP, Cape Town DISTRIBUTION RNA Cover image: Peter Bendheim's image captures the essence of kicking back in the southern Drakensberg resort of Penwarn. The Wildside magazine, logo, Wildside Travel and brand ownership rests with Wildside Publishing cc. Copyrights for material produced in this magazine belong to Wildside Publishing. All rights are reserved and no material from this magazine may be reproduced by any means without the written consent of the publishers. The views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the Publishers nor of KZN Wildlife. Readers who follow advice, expressed or implied, on activities and accommodation do so at their own risk. All competition winners will be anounced in Wildside only. Winners are requested to contact the managing editor to claim their prize.

We have published the names of the exciting Hi-Tec competition in this edition, and the first round of winners in the Wildside Nikon photographic competition. Nkosi sikelela iAfrica

CONTRIBUTORS

Rod MacLeod Rod applies his professional photographer’s eye to the Nambiti Game Reserve and Igudlane articles. He is also responsible for the creative direction of the magazine.

Jennifer Crawford Jennifer visited a resort on the Wild Coast and came back with an unintended story, and for this edition also visited the uKhahlambaDrakensberg.

Catherine Burmester Catherine has worked on international reptile documentaries and articles, working alongside an herpetologist for 10 years which resulted in her fascination and passion for reptiles and all creatures. Her article on her visit to the Central ‘Berg and her hike is as inspirational as her photographs.

Peter Bendheim Peter Bendheim is a photographer and writer employed in the travel and tourism industry. His photographs have featured in publications such as National Geographic Traveller and his work is part of the permanent collection of the Durban Art Gallery. For this edition he visited Penwarn.

Lisa Kohler Regular Wildside writer Lisa brings insight to her stories and unpacks the Nambiti Game Reserve lodges with as much charm as she does information, while Igudlane nearby was also on her assignment schedule for this edition.

Eddie Crawford Part time Wildside photographer Eddie Crawford is a Land Surveyor for the greater part of his time, but is a fervent outdoors individual giving him the opportunity to capture a variety of images.

David Murihead Witty, seriously funny, topical and always linked to Wildside’s ethos, David, a published author, produces yet another outstanding piece for his regular column in Wildside.

www.wildsidesa.co.za WILDSIDE 2of4 2010

©LightshipWhysalls2009

Frugality and High Performance Optics are words seldom found in the same sentence…

Vortex Binoculars Lifetime Warrantee. Full multi coated optics working to increase light transmission throughout the optical system. Great value for any outdoor experience. Rugged roof prism binoculars. Waterproof, dustproof, and internally fogproof design features. An internal focusing mechanism with O rings at all open points and nitrogen purging.

Phone Whysalls: 0861 CAMERA • Head Office 031 5663566 • Brickhill 031 3371431 • Pavilion 031 2650245 • Ballito 032 9462512

THENDELE GIANT’S CASTLE DIDIMA HILLTOP MPILA NTSHONDWE MIDMAR MANTUMA

9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20. 21. 22. 23. 24. 25. 26. 27. 28. 29. 30. 31. 32. 33.

SODWANA ST LUCIA ESTUARY CAPE VIDAL UMLALAZI KOSI BAY AMATIGULU ORIBI GORGE INJISUTHI MONKS COWL KAMBERG LOTHENI COBHAM GARDEN CASTLE HIGHMOOR RUGGED GLEN MOUNT CURRIE NDUMO WEENEN SPIOENKOP PHONGOLO VERNON CROOKES CHARTERS CREEK FALSE BAY PARK CHELMSFORD WAGENDRIFT

Tennis Court

Restaurant / Tea Garden

Conferencing & Functions

Safari Tents

Group Accommodation wh260 4ma y2009

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8.

Information For details visit our website www.kznwildlife.com

Bookings

9 8

All reservations regarding accommodation or wilderness

trails should be made through

the Head Office of Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife in Pietermaritzburg.

30 10

Enquiries

Should you have any enquiries,

please contact our Reservations

3 17

office on +27(0) 33 845 1000

Alternativly, detailed information

22 18

is available on our website, be

advised that the information on this page is subject to change.

29 24

RESERVATIONS TEL: +27 (0) 33 845 1000

FAX +27 (0) 33 845 1001 or bookings@kznwildlife.com

Loyalty Clubs Tel +27 (0) 33 8451011/13 Fax 086 5058892

Above: Thanda, the unspoilt wildness of the Eastern Cape. Below left: Crystal Falls, Champagne valley, central Drakensberg.

BIG BERG EDITION The uKhahlamba-Drakensberg is a fantastic playground waiting for you to explore it. There are places where it is about nothing more than chilling out, to others places offering hectic hikes. We have covered both of these options and a few in-between for you in this special ‘Berg feature.

NORTHERN BERG This region of the ‘Berg is considered to be quieter, but it is also where you can enjoy an adventurous hike to the top of the Amphitheatre while the Royal Natal National Park offers a range of excellent short walks and long hikes.

CENTRAL BERG There is much to do here in the Central Berg and it is where you will also find numerous art and craft shops, places to visit and a variety of activities. There is also great hiking here as this feature shows.

DRAKENSBERG FAVOURITES Have a look at this spread of exciting things to do when you stay in the ‘Berg, as well as see loads of accommodation options.

MIDLAND'S PENWARN Featured on the cover, Penwarn is a place that simply induces relaxation in a tranquil part of the ‘Berg.

ENTER THE WILDSIDE NIKON 2010 PHOTOGRAPHIC COMPETITION

PG10

OVERALL PRIZE: One winner to recieve R20 000 worth of NIKON equipment and a 3 night stay for 2 people at Esiweni Lodge worth R12 870. QUARTERLY PRIZES: Enter up to 3 pictures per quarter. Winners chosen per quarter will each receive a pair of Action 8x40 Nikon binoculars valued at R1000. Prizes may not be exchanged for cash.

To enter log on to: www.wildsidesa.co.za (Terms and conditions apply)

THE MAGAZINE THAT TAKES YOU THERE

The muddy-yellow Sundays river cuts its way through the Nambiti Private Game Reserve.

40 WAVECREST We couldn’t just write about mountains as much as we love them, and thought that this special spot on the Wild Coast is a perfect escape at the beach. Not only is the environment as beautiful as its history is fascinating, but the accommodation is affordable too.

NAMBITI PRIVATE GAME RESERVE You’d never think that there was a Big-5 game reserve near Ladysmith now would you? There are nine lodges in this reserve and Wildside visited two of these – Esiweni Lodge and Nambiti Plains. They are luxurious, with excellent service and superb places to stay while discovering the biodiversity of the reserve.

IGUDLANE LODGE This is a great lodge for parents with children as it provides a safe nature experience for them while parents get to relax too.

WILD GADGETS This exciting section brings you interesting and useful items and information to get you there or use while you are there. If you have any special gadget you think is great then let us know.

COMPETITIONS AND READER OFFERS

Wildside Nikon 2010 Photographic Competition

Wildside Hi-Tec Winners

Montusi Reader Offer

My Story – HI-TEC Winners My Story is the page for what is really your story. Wildside invites you to share your experiences. It can be about a family trip to the bush, or a lone adventure to an island, a hike with friends, a special sighting, or about what you think of hunting, of places you stayed at, or good and perhaps not such good value in travel. It is after all, your story. Email your story to – editor@wildsidesa.co.za

Wildside invited readers to tell us about the most exciting destination to take their Hi-Tec foot wear – here are the winning entries.

Hi-Tec Marketing Manager Shayne Vervoort had the difficult task of selecting winners from the large number of excellent entries in the Wildside Hi-Tec Tell and Win competition. “Hi-Tec is a brand about experiencing the outdoors that we all love so much. We felt that the entries below encapsulated those experiences best. Each of these entries receives a pair of V-lite Altitude Ultra WPi shoes to go and experience the outdoors,” said Shayne.

Claire Cumming

J Duncan Gould

Two pairs of Hi-Tec’s would take my blind friend and I on a sensory adventure through the Blyde River Canyon in the Eastern Transvaal, to taste the pristine water and sweet local naartjies, to hear the stirring cry of the Fish Eagle and the bark of a startled bushbuck, to feel the spray from the Kadishi Waterfall and to learn the history of the Mpumalanga people under the Three Rondawels, because, after all, it’s not all about me.

I’d like to walk up endless steps made of basalt slabs, along paths shared with yak caravans and past red and white and yellow prayer flags. I’d trek up through the mist and drizzle to where the sun shines again, this time on last winter’s snow. In the hut at night my shoes stay between me and the wall, laces tied to my pack. The mountains are austere, almost hostile; like snow-dusted cathedrals. My feet are warm now, my footing secure as I stamp in a new path on snow-covered skree.

WILDSIDE 2of4 2010

Under a cobalt sky man-made colours glare out - Annapurna Base Camp, Nepal; and my Hi-Tec boots got me here.

Cobus Theron As the lightning crashes and the rain pellets down the eland start running up the ridge in the direction of Redi Peak, Lotheni. They have not seen me and I scramble up a steep rocky section, hoping for a closer look. The shale is loose under my feet but like the hoofed creatures, each step is surefooted. I reach the top of the hill just ahead of the antelopes they pierce the horizon with their horns. The view of these beasts silhouetted against the Drakensberg and the lightning lit clouds makes my blood rush. “Sir, Sir will you be taking these Hi-Tec’s?” I snap back to reality and look at the boots in my hand. Wow! The adventure has already begun.

Simone Scrase My Hi-Tec boots have been carrying me along hiking trails for 20 years. Bought in 1989, they fitted like a sock from the first day and I was able to do the Blyde River Canyon five day hiking trail immediately without any discomfort. However, it was a trip to the Okavango Delta last year that laid my Hi-Tec boots to rest. After hiking for four days, eight hours a day, through mud, bushveld, soft sand and waterways, my boots gave way. I’ll replace my Hi-Tec boots with a new Hi-Tec pair and ensure another 20 years of comfortable, trouble-free hiking.

Ryan Parker I love to walk rivers. River walking is one of the best ways to see the true nature of those elongated, meandering beasts as they carve their niche in often hard, but mostly beautiful country. The best river walk I experienced was in Zion National Park in Utah, USA, where the river has hacked its way into a beautiful gorge. The rock

walls are breathtaking. Pioneers named the peaks after the patriarchs of the bible, that’s how permanent they are. To walk these rivers, Hi-Tec is the only option. Rugged, durable, comfortable and just Hi-Tec.

Melissa Kelly I want to take the Hi-Tec to the top of Table Mountain. I want to hike the back of the mountain with my boyfriend as we love the outdoors and lived in Durban all our lives until a year ago when we moved to Cape Town, and we haven’t been up the mountain. We want to walk up for the first time taking in all the beautiful things and challenge ourselves with this outdoor adventure, as we both work hard and in an office for long days.

Mavis Morris I have had the privilege of taking my Hi-Tec ladies Ascent boots up to the four highest peaks in southern Africa (south of Kilimanjaro) Thaba Ntlanyana, (3490m) (Lesotho) Mafadi, Champagne Castle and Injasuthi Dome. My Hi-Tec’s were fantastic and I never had a single blister or sore feet. I would like to take a new pair of Hi-Tec’s on the Grand Traverse of the ‘Berg - a 12 day traverse from the Amphitheatre to Bushmans Neck. My first choice would be Hi-Tec, for comfort, waterproof quality and durability.

Fran Willmore The most exciting place I can imagine taking my Hi-Tec V-Lite Altitude Ultras is on one of the 10 best hikes in the world, the West Coast Trail on Vancouver Island Canada where one is told “assume all surfaces are wet”! I would be assured of having dry feet even though I would be walking through mud almost certainly a good deal of the hike, crossing beaches at low tide when water is at its lowest and almost certainly hiking in rain at some stage of the gruelling 75km hike.

Photo By: Wim van den Heever

I AM THE NIKON D5000. I perfectly capture the moment and the movement in high definition video with sound. I am the best of both worlds. www.nikon.co.za

AN HOUR OUTTA TOWN There is so much to do just

an hour or so out of town from Durban, be it for a little romantic breakaway, quality time with a friend or family, or to do something with your children. Here’s some different things to do and places to stay.

HEAD FOR THE SOUTH COAST

STAY AT … EMERALD COVE On the shores of the warm Indian Ocean Emerald Cove is the perfect place to enjoy the pleasures of a beach holiday and explore South Coast of KZN - one of the finest beach destinations with year round warm sunny days and warm waters even in winter. St Michael’s beach, located between Shelly Beach and Margate, is a much loved destination offering safe swimming with shark nets and life guards on duty, golden sands, paddle boats on a lagoon, rock pools and a lawned area with a kiddie’s pool. St Mikes is a world class surfing destination which hosts many exciting competitions. Deep sea fishing boats launch just a kilometre away. The Saints Walk is a grassed path along the coastline offering beautiful scenery and vantage points for whale and dolphin watching. Emerald Cove - Beachfront self catering thatched holiday chalets.

Tel:

039 3155284 Email: info@emeraldcove.co.za www.emeraldcove.co.za

DRINK THE BEST COFFEE IN SOUTH AFRICA AT… BEAVER CREEK Visitors to the Estate can sample and purchase a range of freshly roasted Beaver Creek and other imported coffees of origin. Join us for the ‘Crop to Cup’ tour on everyday at 12.00 pm. The Estate Café serves delicious light meals, speciality cakes and a range of freshly roasted coffee all day. If you love coffee, a visit to Beaver Creek Coffee Estate is an experience not to be missed. Situated on Izingolweni Road Port Edward KwaZulu-Natal. Tel: 039 311 2315 / 039 311 2347 Email beavercreek@yebo.co.za or coffeesales@yebo.co.za www.beavercreek.co.za

WATCH A SHOW, BE ENTHRALLED AT…RIVERBEND CROCODILE FARM Riverbend Crocodile Farm is a tourist landmark situated at Southbroom just south of Margate and is home to hundreds of Nile crocodiles in beautifully landscaped pools and some of the most venomous and beautiful snakes. Witness the feeding frenzy of hundreds of hungry

crocodiles, crocodile hatching and snake demonstrations. This farm produces eight thousand crocodile hatchlings each year. The Crocodile Cafe is a licensed restaurant on the farm and there is also a curio and craft shop, art gallery and wine cellar. The annual South Coast Spring Wine Festival and Art Exhibition is hosted by Riverbend Art and Wine in September each year. Open from 9am to 4:30pm daily, phone for feeding times. Tel: 039 3166204 www.crocodilecrazy.co.za

GO NORTH

WALK AND PICNIC AT…DLINZA Experience Eshowe’s unique Dlinza Forest Aerial Boardwalk, 90 minutes from Durban, walk through the magnificent indigenous forest canopy then relax on the 20m high viewing tower. Explore two easily-walked trails amongst ancient vines, forest giants, and a variety of birds and butterflies, seeking the rare Spotted Ground Thrush and blue duiker. The visitor centre has interesting environmental displays, refreshments, wheelchairfriendly ablutions, curio shop, picnic areas and a new bird hide. Tel: 035 474 4029 Email:boardwalk@zbr.co.za www.birdingroutes.co.za

AN HOUR OUTTA TOWN ON YOUR DOOR STEP

EDUTAINMENT AND BOAT TRIP WITHâ&#x20AC;Ś KZN SHARKS BOARD Just 20 km north of Durban, is the vibrant area of Umhlanga

Rocks and perched on top of the hill overlooking the beautiful coastal vista, is the KwaZulu-Natal Sharks Board, whose primary concern is the protection of bathers against shark attack and to promote beach tourism. Incredible underwater footage of sharks and other marine life form part of an edutainment audiovisual presentation followed by a shark dissection. Shark senses, feeding, reproduction â&#x20AC;&#x201C; learn more about it during our public shows.

An exciting early morning two hour boat trip for the more adventurous â&#x20AC;&#x201C; have a birdâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s eye view of the nets being checked off Durbanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s beaches and you may be fortunate enough to see a shark being tagged and released alive. Wildlife abounds offshore above and below the water and viewing enthrals the passengers during their time at sea. Tel: 031-566-0400 Fax: 031-566-0499 www.shark.co.za

Â Â? Â?Â?Â? Â?Â?

Â ÂÂ&#x20AC;

Â&#x201A;

Â&#x201A; Â&#x192;Â&#x201E;

SHOWTIMES WITH SHARK DISSECTIONS 09h00 and 14h00 Tue to Thu and 14h00 on Sun. Tel: (031) 566 0435 CURIO SHOP AND SHARK MUSEUM For unusual gifts and life-like replicas of marine life. Open Mon to Fri 08h00 to 16h00 and Sun from 13h00 to 16h00. BOAT TRIPS Venture out to sea to watch our crew at work servicing the shark safety gear off Durbanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Golden Mile. Boat trips lasting Âą two hours leave Wilsonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Wharf at 06h30. Opportunistic viewing of marine life, including seabirds. Bookings - 082 403 9206. NO SHOWS ON RECOGNISED PUBLIC HOLIDAYS

Bi r d in g

R ou te

Zul u

TERMS & CONDITIONS APPLY

Experience . . . Tel: (031) 566 0400 I www.shark.co.za FOLLOW THE SIGNS ON UMHLANGA ROCKS DRIVE, PAST UMHLANGA HOSPITAL

Tel: (035) 474 4029

www.zbr.co.za/boardwalk email: boardwalk@birdlife.org.za

South Africaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s first aerial walkway in the indigenous forest canopy amongst birds, butterflies & forest animals, and enjoy a 20m high observation tower.

PRO TIPS

Albert Froneman PROFESSIONAL tips on

BIRD PHOTOGRAPHY

Albert Froneman is a professional bird photographer sponsored by Nikon South Africa. He is based in Johannesburg where together with Chris van Rooyen they run a successful photo safari company. Albert travels widely in southern Africa to photograph birds and wildlife. His favourite camera and lens is the highly acclaimed Nikon D3s and the 500mm f/4G ED VR AF-S NIKKOR lens.

Bird photography is both exhilarating and extremely rewarding. The challenge to capture a perfect image of a bird in flight inspires and motivates many nature photographers. Our feathered friends can be difficult subjects to photograph but once you are properly equipped with a big telephoto lens and a fast accurate autofocus camera it gets quite a bit easier. Here are a few tips that will help you to improve your bird photography:

For bird photography size matters so I always recommend using a Nikon super telephoto lens – a 300mm is the minimum but preferably use a 500mm or 600mm lens. Teleconverters are useful tools to increase the focal length of your lens – I almost always have my Nikon TC-14E II Teleconverter attached when I photograph small birds. For birds in flight always maintain a high shutter speed of at least a 1/2000th of a second – nowadays with the superb high ISO noise capabilities of the Nikon D3s this is relatively easy.

Fill-in flash is an indispensable tool for a bird photographer – it can be very effective to add some sparkle to a dull cloudy day or even to lighten harsh shadows in bright light. Get to know the birds that you are photographing, study their behaviour and be prepared to spend time with them in the field, with a bit of luck and lots of patience you will be rewarded with some spectacular images!

What could you accomplish if you could redraw the boundaries of photography? Find out, with Nikon. www.nikon.co.za

TAKE YOUR BEST SHOT

WILDSIDE

AFRICA PHOTOGRAPHIC COMPETITION 2010/2011

www.wildsidesa.co.za

Enter to stand a chance to win R20 000 worth of NIKON equipment and a three night stay for two valued at R12 870 at the prestigious Esiweni Lodge in Nambiti Private Game Reserve, KwaZulu-Natal.

First Quarter Winner â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Brendon Cremer : Jackal Buzzard Landing in the Drakensberg. 12

WILDSIDE 2of4 2010

First Runner up – Steve Pilbrough: Twirly Whirlys.

Second Runner up – Ross Couper: Night Watch.

THE COMPETITION JUDGE Freelance photographer and owner of Africa Imagery, a stock photo library, Roger de la Harpe has a passion for natural history, wild places and different cultures and his work on these subjects has featured in most notably BBC Wildlife and National Geographic. Roger reaches for the Nikon D3 x and 200 – 400mm lens for wildlife photography and the 14 – 24mm and 24 – 70mm lenses for scenic and travel images. Third Runner up – Helena Faasen: Chameleon display – this image of a flap-necked chameleon was taken in Botswana.

www.esiweni.co.za

TERMS: Any scene, any subject, as long as its taken on African soil or any of her exotic neighbouring islands. Open to South African citizens only. Terms and conditions apply.

To enter log on to: www.wildsidesa.co.za

At the heart of the Image

From the top of the Amphitheatre, cascading down five sheer drops, forming the second highest waterfall in the world, the Tugela Falls becomes the mighty Tugela River â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a vital fresh water source for South Africa. Photograph by Rod MacLeod.

SECRETS OF THE

DRAKENSBERG Jennifer Crawford

WILDSIDE 2of4 2010

Truly it may be said that the outside of a mountain is good for the inside of a man.” ~ George Wherry.1896

The view of the uKhahlamba-Drakensberg’s world renowned Amphitheatre taken across the fishing dam at the Royal Natal National Park where there is a variety of excellent and well priced accommodation. Photographs by Eddie Crawford.

The highest mountain range in South Africa, the uKhahlambaDrakensberg, stretches up to the heavens in greatness, and the enormity gives you a view from afar – an ever changing view which depends on the antics of the weather coupled with the playfulness of the light. But, it is only when you get closer that you’re able to discover her secrets and know her ways. Mountains are associated with things miraculous, with holiness, and divineness beyond us. Size alone provides perspective and gazing up at the Amphitheatre from the Royal Natal National Park is a stark reminder of how small and puny we are. The main feature is a rock wall approximately five km in length which has precipitous cliffs rising 1220m along its length and is widely regarded as having one of the most impressive cliff faces on earth. Relevance and things deemed important in day to day life get distorted as you consider the mountains and her permanence. Thankfully, man can’t change the mountains. God moves mountains and they say faith can too.

“The exclusive Thendele Lodge is spacious and hidden away from the main camp giving you privacy while at the same time offering unrivalled views of the Amphitheatre.”

NORTHERN BERG In terms of getting close to the mountains, there is no closer view, in fact let’s call it front row, or golden circle tickets, when you stay at the gorgeous stone cottage at Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife’s Royal Natal National Park. It’s called the Thendele Lodge and is situated in the lower Thendele Camp. Here, you have nobody in front of you, only unrivalled cinematic views of the dramatic, timeless, and iconic Amphitheatre. Apparently there is a view of the Amphitheatre from every bungalow, but I was so absorbed by this beautiful cottage and its perfect view that I just didn’t get around to checking out any of the 26 chalets that accommodate either two or four people each. Nor did I go poking my nose around the other two six-bed cottages. The Thendele Lodge is hidden away from the main camp, offers privacy and is a perfect setting for a group, be it family or friends, to escape to, together. It’s a sumptuous well furnished lodge with

WILDSIDE 2of4 2010

all the facilities you need and perhaps even some you don’t need like satellite television. There are three en-suite bedrooms, the master bedroom being massive, a large open plan lounge and dining room, a nook next to the fireplace, a bar and outside braai and a well equipped kitchen. Not to worry much about the kitchen because this lodge, like the two cottages, each have their own cook who will prepare meals from the provisions you supply. The architecture lends itself to the setting with floor to ceiling expanses of glass windows, while the low slung flat garden roof is in Frank Lloyd Wright style. It is difficult to photograph and fantastic to stay in. Getting back to the Berg's secrets. You need to walk, hike, or climb into the mountains to even have a chance of finding out about their mysteries and there are a good many hikes from the Thendele Camp ranging from an hour to a full day. The names alone of these hikes hint to enchanting discoveries… Fairy Glen, Sunday Falls, Cascades, Mudslide, Surprise Ridge and Cannibal Cave. There is also the Thukela Gorge walk, one that has eluded me for several years, always for a different reason: menacing

weather, lack of time, commitments to other walks. Unfortunately, this walk successfully eluded me once again. The landscape was blackened from a controlled burn, the river was dry, there was no glittering water tumbling over the lip and onto the face of the Amphitheatre, cascading down five sheer drops, forming the second highest waterfall in the world and becoming the mighty Tugela River. No, none of that would be seen and even though it is a gentle gradient, this gorge walk is long, a 14km round trip which would take around six hours at a leisurely pace.

Mystery of the Amphitheatre The Amphitheatre is not a singular experience, it is the type of mountain that you go back to time and again, encountering it from different angles and places and during different times in your life. Having hiked to the top of the Amphitheatre previously when I had looked down onto the Thendele Camp (which looked like mini-town), I now wanted to view the Amphitheatre from the bottom. I especially wanted to view it from the gorge, to see if it’s true that you can see the waterfall in its entirety from here. But, I would not find out as there was no water.

There are numerous hikes to choose from at Royal Natal National Park be it from an hour to day long hikes while one of the most interesting short hikes is to view the San rock art with a community guide in the Park. Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife has a diverse range of accommodation.

Most of the routes have cell phone coverage, but once you are in the gorge itself, you have no cell phone coverage, so it’s said. I didn’t have a chance to get cut off and disconnected, unfortunately.

mixed into a concoction of impulsive weather without pattern, a little eerie silence, a loneliness and a loveliness that makes it the closest you can get to heaven when on earth.

a better photograph, and another who had tried to chip the image out from the soft sandstone. We were duly horrified and grateful that one could now only view this San rock art with a guide.

The classic photographs of the Amphitheatre are taken from the valley floor with the river and rocks in the foreground - this is more than 1 800m below the highest point of the Amphitheatre. It may be the best photographic opportunity, but one of the best experiences is to climb to the top when the grandeur is felt and where the views are spectacular. However, when you are finally on the top, and look for the source of the potent Tugela River, the Mont Aux Sources, you find that it is but a gentle, almost chivalrous, seeping of water, probably a puddle at the moment.

A Very Real Secret That Few Know About

“Are these the only Bushman paintings here?” we asked. “Not exactly. There are more here but their location is kept secret because they are in good condition and it’s important to keep them like this. The researchers were here just last week to check on them.” “What if people find them?” we wondered. “You can’t find all of the secrets of the mountains.” he said.

It is this humbleness and greatness

I had stared at the Amphitheatre from below thinking about what secrets I could have uncovered had I done the gorge walk. I settled for a short hike to see Bushman paintings also known as San rock art expecting history, but not much in the way of secrets. The walk was an hour and a half round trip in the Sigubudu Valley with a community guide who was highly knowledgeable. He showed us how these paintings have been damaged by people who have splashed water on them to get

WILDSIDE 2of4 2010

Northern Drakensberg

Montusi Magic The northern Drakensberg has maintained its character as a quieter part of the ‘Berg, further influenced by the people in this region who run fine establishments, such as Montusi. Owner-run by Jean and Anthony Carte, Montusi offers a luxurious stay in the mountains, devoid of pretentiousness, where there is an atmosphere of tranquility. As you slip through the small towns of Winterton, and then Bergville, if travelling from Durban, you finally feel you’re in the ‘Berg – that big mountain countryside. It’s a further 30km to Montusi from Bergville, so you undoubtedly get a sense of remoteness even though it is easily accessible. We were trying to beat the setting sun on our way there as there were hopes to throw a fly before the sky darkened, but the sun is never behind schedule, not even here where the pace seems slower. However, as Jean mentioned, Montusi does “keep the sun a little longer in winter” than other establishments in the afternoon and being ‘set back’ also means Montusi enjoys full and unin-

WILDSIDE 2of4 2010

terrupted views of the Amphitheatre escarpment. We arrived on a cool evening in winter, nowhere nearly as cold as we had anticipated, and headed for our garden suite with its view of the Amphitheatre. All of the suites have this vast view of the Amphitheatre and all are spacious, well appointed, with those indulgent extras like opulent percale linen, a gas operated fireplace, underfloor heating… The food is just as indulgent so it came as no surprise that Montusi has been awarded a Chef’s Hat in the prestigious Portfolio Collection. With several course meals, fortunately Montusi provides daily guided morning walks on the 1000 hectare estate.

Hiking, biking and fly-fishing There are numerous hikes in the area and popular destinations are the top of Montusi Mountain, Bushman Cave, and Waterfall Cave. The Royal Natal National Park is 15km away and Montusi can arrange a hike to the top of the Amphitheatre. Fly-fishing is a favourite past-time at

Montusi which has two dams stocked with trout. Fishing rods can be hired and flies are for sale. This ‘catch and release’ activity is reserved for lodge residents. Guests have 45km of mountain bike trails ranging from gentle 4 x 4 trails to technical single track and its worthwhile bringing your own mountain bike to Montusi. The atmosphere of an upmarket lodge with a relaxed air comes from the experienced owners. Jean and Anthony Carte are of The Cavern fame so to speak where they spent 25 years. Anthony’s brother, Peter Carte, owns The Cavern and at one stage the brothers shared ownership of both places. Montusi has attracted international guests predominantly from Germany, Holland and the United Kingdom. This was by design and no accident as 10 years ago when Montusi set out to find a market, they knew the existing establishments in the region “the three big C’s” as Jean quips, referring to the Cavern, Cathedral Peak and Champagne Castle, were excellent and decided to go after the international market. Nonetheless about 30% of Montusi’s market is made up of South Africans who enjoy the quiet setting.

WILD Reader offer

MONTUSI READER OFFER

Stay in the luxurious Montusi Lodge in the northern Drakensberg and enjoy the peace and tranquility of a place with panoramic views of the Amphitheatre. 20% discount for June, July and August. You will have to bring your Wildside copy with you. Terms and conditions apply, ensure you advise when booking is made.

Montusi is not only impeccable in terms of maintenance, but one could say this too of their larger estate as Anthony has worked tirelessly to eradicate invader plants, and has preserved and planted – changing a wattle wasteland into a rehabilitated conservation area. Indigenous trees and manmade forests flourish and the birdlife which was once non-existent, is abundant. This ethic has resulted in the return of the mountain reedbuck, bushbuck and the elusive eland. The name Montusi, like many of the mountain names, is an anglicized version of Mtusi meaning, in the shadow. As we left this peaceful haven, before it was ‘in the shadow’ entirely, our only thoughts were that we wanted to stay longer and we suspect that you’ll think this too.

ALL OUT ADVENTURES Several years ago Wildside visited All Out Adventures and wondered how this crazy American’s dream of ‘adventure activity’ in the middle of the tranquil northern ‘Berg was going to work out. The 'crazy' American was Chris Mecklenborg and today the centre has become a tremendous success.

Situated in the northern ‘Berg, 30km from Bergville and a few minutes away from Montusi Lodge, All Out Adventures is an impressive array of rides and slides, in and around and on top of and between pine trees. It is exciting for children and adults alike, it’s outdoors, it’s fun, and it adds a new dimension to your ‘Berg trip. There’s the Canopy Tour which is a series of six zip line cables suspended 25m above the forest floor. Reaching speeds of up to 60km per hour, it is one of the fastest canopy tours but with Chris’s unique guide-operated braking system you do not have to stress about stopping yourself. The cable slides total 230 meters. Those wanting an adrenalin rush have the free fall king swing, and the thrilling flying trapeze - the only commercially operated participation flying trapeze. The king swing involves a climb up a 20m spiral stair case to the top of a pine tree followed by a breath taking traverse of two suspension bridges before the hair raising jump out of the tree tops from a 17 meter platform. There is also the bungee bounce, zip line and forested paintball. This is a great venue for corporate and family team building.

WILDSIDE 2of4 2010

RESERVE T

sentinel car park and mont aux sources via chain ladder

R103 R602

Ladysmith

esiweni nambiti plains

little switzerland

witsieshoek the cavern

RUGGED 23 GLEN

1 THENDELE

PRIVATE GAME RESERVE

SPIOENKOP NATURE RESERVE three tree hill lodge

R74

R103

EXIT 220

thendele resort & camping and caravan park P

Beacon Buttress 3121m Sentinel Peak 3165m Mont-Aux-Sources 3282m

zintulo umzololozo NAMBITI

N11

R616

hlalanathi

Bergville R74

Colenso

mnweni WILDSIDE FACT TRACKER cultural

Winterton R74

centre

NORTHERN DRAKENSBERG R600

A BIT ABOUT THE ‘BERG Cathedral Peak 3004m

EXIT 230

sungabala montusi all out adventures

UK HA HL During the PalaeozoicAera and water MBwind mudstone deposited thick layers of shale, A

daily except on Tuesdays out of season. DIDIMA RESORT & ROCK ART CENTREwelcome.theThe nest Canopy Tour costs Drop-ins drak. boys King champagne R375 pp, U12 yrs R250, Swing valley R150 resort 17 MONK’S COWL choir NATURE RESERVE pp. drakensberg canopy tours falcon072 ridge bird Tel: 036 438 6242 Cell: 386 1344 monks cowl of prey centre camping and E-mail: info@alloutadventures.co.za caravan park champagne castle hotel

R74

Weenen EXIT 194

CATHEDRAL NEARBY THINGS TO DO PEAK caley lodge ALL OUT ADVENTURE CENTRE Open

The Zulus named the Drakensberg ‘uKhahlamba’ (Barrier Of Spears) and it’s 3 the highest mountain range in South Africa Windsor Castle back 3065m to the Prerising to 3482m and dates Cambrian era where volcanic eruptions spewed lava covering massive portions of the sub continent. Cathkin Peak 3148m

Frere

WEENEN NATURE RESERVE

R74

These guides are self employed and have a concession to guide R103 within the Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife Reserves. There is no price R10 structuring however the usual rate is around EXIT 179 R300 per group per day or P part thereof with a maximum of R500 per group for a 10 – 12 Escourt hour day. The group size is a maximum of 10 people. EXIT 168

Community guides are 36 contacted directly, R29 THE DRAGONS CAVE No trip to the but the Ezemvelo officesDAM at Monks, WAGENDRIFT R103 ‘Berg is complete without coming home Cathedral andNATURE RoyalRESERVE Natal will assist with and sandstone over the ancient primary with home-made goodies like pickles, or INJISUTHI phone numbers. Community antbear guest houseguides have 16 rock now known as the Karoo Supergroup. Mafadi 3450m RESERVEVisit Randa preserves, chutneysNATURE or cheese. EXIT 152 horsewhat makes local knowledge. I sengani believe a trails The ‘Berg is comprised of two crowning Wright’s farm stall The Dragons Cave, guide is willingness to share information and layers – the Stormberg group and volcanic between Bergville and Winterton. 8km from impart a ‘warmth’ for the ‘Berg. EXIT 146 basalt. The Stormberg group which makes Bergville. Tel: 082 415 1769 T hartford house– Bergfree Mooiriver western agriculDave Sclanders Adventures up the Little Berg consists of three layers the R28 tural college P GOLF From Montusi, the nearest golf www.bergfree.co.za hlatikhulu crane and lowest being the Molteno Beds composed GIANT’S CASTLE 2 course is 8 km away at the nine-hole EXIT 143 wetland sanctuary NATURE RESERVE Professional of blue-grey sandstones forming terraces at Amphitheatre Golf Course at Hlalanathi. R103 guide, Dave the base of the Little Berg. The Red Beds silver hill guest Tel: 036 438 6308 HIGHMOOR Rosetta lodge Sclanders, ranging from red to purple mudstones and NATURE RESERVE HORSE RIDING The Northern Horse spends some shales came next forming the grassy slopes. 22 EXIT 132 EXIT 132 operates horse trails from Montusi from Mokhotlong GiantsCastle 3314m 135Nottingham days a year Crowning this layer the Cave Sandstone Malubelube Rd gentle strolls over flat fields to descents into riverside hiking, and walks layer formed and being soft and easily KAMBERG P EXIT 125 cottages the river valleys and up the escarpments. 18 NATURE RESERVE more than 1 400 eroded it is where many caves of the Little Thaba Ntlenyana 3482m Tel: 082 337 8770 Molumong kilometers. He Berg can be found. kamberg rock art shuttleworth LOTHENI has outstanding centre About 200 million years ago Gondwana weaving 19 NATURE RESERVE mountaineering HIKING – COSTS, QUALIFICATIONS, R103 Land began to separate creating enormous bramleigh ability and plans manor AND CONTROVERSY gasuta forces causing lava to spew from massive lodge appropriately. dargyle the lavender co. fissures forming in the earths’ surface. In EX The main activity of the ‘Berg is hiking and Dave shares his valley pottery the Drakensberg lava capped sedimentary a guide can enhance an experience while barrett’s views. rock formations with layers of thick basalt country house on longer hikes some feel it is a necessity. the woodturner VERGELEGEN Ask the guide for make up the High Berg. Wind and rain On a recent hike with a community guide NATURE RESERVE their Guiding Identification card which the MIDMAR DAM 7 sculpted the spectacular rock formations a Wildside representative was asked for a guide should carry at all times and has his/ over millennia. staggering R1 200 for taking two people on her name, photograph, ID, and description SANI PASS a eight hour hike. This prompted questions ROYAL NATAL NATIONAL PARK inversada PIETERM D522need of the guide’s qualification. You will and below is information which may help Thendele Lodge to assess, or ask abouttillietudlem the relativity of the trout you next time you want to hire a guide. and gamewalk lodge or hike. Cost: R465 pppns Child R233 pppns qualification to the proposed However, there seems to sanibe pass no set fees. N R617 minimum charge R1860. hotel 20 COBHAM Fees should be negotiated and settled Cyndi Jonker of STATE FOREST Activities: Numerous excellent hikes. A before the trip starts. There are no set fees. sani valley Sungubala Boston GARDEN CASTLE guide book and map available at the visitor lodge The fee should be based on: qualification, Mountain Bush NATURE RESERVE W centre. Trout fishing E is available in a21dam experience, difficulty altitude, distance, Himeville Camp who trains drakensberg gardens hotel in the park and in the Mahai and Thukela number of people and equipment provided. HIMEVILLE local community R617for higher middle areas, and rivers. lake navarone Fees increase guidesNATURE says:RESERVE Underberg escarpment. Booking: Tel: 033 845 1999 Web: www. Bulwer S One needs to BUSHMANS NEK kznwildlife.com I carry a GPS, cell phone with rescue R617 seek out the most numbers, an emergency pack with extra MONTUSI appropriate guide food, emergency blanket, basic medical for your activity. Northern Drakensberg, halfway between penwarn supplies. I inform the EKZN office of my There have been a few projects where local Jhb and Durban, 30km from Bergville. A route. Clients provide me with details, COLEFORD people have had the opportunity to be total of 14 suites set in open gardens each NATURE RESERVE medical history, medical aid numbers. I trained as guides. One such project was with views of the Amphitheatre. charge in the region of R1000 for a group of guides who qualified as site guides and are Cost: R1000 pppns dbb. U12 yrs 50%. 4 people on an eight hour hike. qualified to guide within their local area. Ask about the Wildside Montusi Special They need to have completed an AMAFA Tel: 036 438 6243 Email:info@montusi.co.za training course. Champagne Castle 3374m

ERG SB EN AK DR

WORLD HERITAG E S ITE

LESOTHO

KWAZULU-NATAL

20 WILDSIDE 2of4 2010 Drakensberg &Midlands Map.indd 1

Anthony’s B&B

Zingela Wildside Ad.indd 1

2/24/10 6:57:00 AM

Anthony’s B&B has easy access to all areas of the Central and Northern Berg. We are in the middle of the range and have a direct view of Cathedral Peak and the mountains up to Champagne Castle.

swimming pool • Large with sun loungers and covered verandah. en suite • 5withbedrooms Queen beds and amenities. Self catering unit with 2 • good bedrooms en suite.

Tel: 036 448 1033 • Email: carol.irish@telkomsa.net

W i l d s i d e M a ga z i n e s u p p o r t s t h e R oya l D ra ke n s b e rg P r i m a r y S c h o o l

Royal Drakensberg Primary School From a roofless barn was born the Royal Drakensberg Primary School which has given hope and education to children in the northern Drakensberg. Founded in 2007 by establishments in the area to address the need for good education, there are now 32 children from pre-school to Grade 3. The school aims to provide excellent foundation phase education for children by cultivating a culture that embraces holistic educational practices and the best lessons of South Africa’s unique democracy. Funding is covered primarily through fees and through fund raising events including an annual MTB challenge. All proceeds from the Royal Drakensberg Mountain Bike Challenge go directly to the school. For more information on the ride, call Chris on 072 386 1344.

Visit www.royal-drakensberg.org.za for more information about the school.

Crystal Falls on the way to the Sphinx, Central Drakensberg

WILDSIDE 2of4 2010

My husband Ryan and I set off from Durban for the central Drakensberg and were pleasantly surprised at how quickly we arrived at our destination surrounded by mountains, grass plains and sun birds calling as they flittered from one flower to the next, their feathers shimmering like diamonds in the sun.

OUT AND ABOUT IN THE CENTRAL DRAKENSBERG Catherine Burmester explored the central ‘Berg doing a 10 hour hike to Sterkhorn amongst a variety of other activities.

Having skipped breakfast and having travelled for over 200km we were ready for a bite to eat. Turning left off the “Loskop” road, Thokozisa immediately on the left at the entrance to the Champagne Valley, looked tempting and with my husband pointing out the sun birds cavorting in their rockery we stopped for a delicious wrap. With camera in hand I stalked the iridescent sunbirds sipping nectar from the dazzling orange flowers of the aloe. We met Zulu Goodman playing Johnny Clegg songs on his guitar as we left Thokozisa: “The Happy Meeting of Ways”. It was less than half an hour later when we arrived at Champagne Castle Hotel, the last hotel at the foot of the mountains and five minutes away from the Monks Cowl Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife offices. Our chalet was luxurious with lots of space for us to unload all of our luggage. The next morning we set off to explore the mountains, joining the path right outside our chalet as most of the walks radiating from the Monks Cowl offices are accessible from Champagne Castle Hotel. We only managed to walk 4 km past the cascading Crystal Falls to the Sphinx - a conspicuous sandstone promontory - as the weather turned against us and light showers of rain were ushered in for the rest of the day, obliterating any evidence of the mountains. We made it back in time for breakfast at the hotel and we were greeted to a sumptuous affair.

Left: Champagne Castle Hotel

WILDSIDE 2of4 2010

A plan begins to form… During the course of the day we met interesting residents of the ‘Berg and tried to glean local information about walks, mountain bike tracks and horse riding. Champagne Castle Hotel has wonderful horse rides into the mountains. A nearby resort, Mountain Splendour, cater for mountain cyclists providing a single track of seven and a half km on their property. Chatting to Sue at the resort we found out that to climb or walk up the Sterkhorn was interesting. Sue and her husband did this walk every New Years’ day at a trot leaving at 6am and were back down by 2pm. This piqued my interest and a vague plan began to form. We were going to tackle Sterhorn. After booking a community guide recommended by the Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife offices, we arose early the next morning, fumbling around the dark as we dressed hurriedly to be on time to meet our guide at Monks Cowl at 6am. We set off from Monks Cowl as the wisps of clouds splashed across the sky blushed a beautiful rose hue. As we ascended for 2km to elevated heights up

WILDSIDE 2of4 2010

to the Sphinx the sun pushed up from the horizon bathing the escarpment’s peaks, Champagne Castle, Cathkin Peak and Sterkhorn our intended ascent in a gush of golden rays illuminating the landscape in hues of alizarin crimson and ochre golds, a prelude to the many moods of the mountains that we were to experience that day. Our jeans were soaked from the knees down as we steadily rose up the mountain brushing past tufts of grass soaked with dew and the previous night’s rain. Upon reaching the crystal gurgling waters of Breakfast Stream at the start of the plateau and about 3km from the Monks Cowl offices our guide Brighton aptly sat down to have some breakfast which Champagne Castle Hotel had provided for the three of us. I dashed off more interested to achieve a better view and was rewarded with a spectacular view of the open grasslands with tinges of russet red, yellow ochre and sap green rolling into the hills of the ‘Little Berg now at my feet, rising up to the High Berg’s regal escarpments’ peaks Champagne Castle, Cathkin Peak and Sterkhorn.

Blindman’s Corner Walking along the plateau towards the escarpment up to Blindman’s Corner 2078m above sea level we couldn’t help notice that puffs of mist were gently floating up from the cavernous valleys looking rather innocuous. However as time progressed and we inched our way to Sterkhorn the mist crept in silently and almost imperceptibly engulfed us in the shrouds of her white veil creating a possessed silence all around. An important attribute of the Drakensberg mountain range is its water producing ability which sustains many rivers and dams. From Blindman’s Corner the angle of the walk veered upwards for three and a half km almost perpendicular towards the heavens leaving us gasping for air and grasping tufts of grass to heave ourselves ever higher. The mist pressed in closely and densely around us clinging to the mountain, chilling the air. Photographically I was disappointed, but it is the unpredictable and dramatic mood swings of the mountains that keeps on drawing us back.

Opposite page: Cathkin and Sterkhorn peaks. Above clockwise: Sterkhorn decent, Sterkhorn summit, berg adder( Bitis atropos), the

perennial dwarf shrub (Helichrysum glaciale) grows at an altitude between 2500 – 2910mm, the narrow pathed descent from the summit of Sterkhorn, skaapsteker (Psammophylax rhombeatus).

Clawing our way up we encountered a beautiful baby Berg Adder irascible and belligerent even at that tender age employed as part of their defense against predators. Ryan helping me change lenses, placed my backpack full of camera gear on the mountain slope. Gravity took hold and before we knew it the bag was bouncing down the misty mountain slope at a treacherous rate of knots. Ryan waited to see where the backpack would finally come to rest and rushed off down the mountain to retrieve it. Fortunately all was fine and we set off once again having a further one and a half km to reach the summit. We both realized how quickly circumstances can change in this inhospitable yet beautiful environment. We gingerly made our way along the narrow path keeping our balance rather to the higher side as the lower side plunged vertically downward a frightening thousand meters or so. We leveled out and then traversed a narrow strip with the valley plummeting either side, giving us the heeby geebs. We didn’t know if we were thankful for

the mist as it masked our horizons but would leave our imagination running wild at times when we sneaked a view as the ghostly mist shifted across the sheer weathered precipices. At this point it took a lot of nerve to persevere and with my husband gently prodding me on we resumed determined to reach our goal. After about five hours of grueling walking and clambering we came to rest on another narrow ledge and ate our lunch also catered by Champagne Castle Hotel and gathered our wits for our final ascent of Sterkhorn. Brighton regaled us with stories of previous hikers suffering from vertigo or an overwhelming fear and having to turn back three quarters of the way up.

Another, larger ‘Berg Adder Creeping and hoisting ourselves through a hole aptly named the chimney created by two boulders, we inched nearer the crest when the silence was broken by the huffing and puffing of another larger ‘Berg Adder warning me as I was

about to place my hand unwittingly in his vicinity. Clinging to the cliff I hastily snapped a few photos mindfull about falling backwards if the adder lunged at me in defense. In seconds we were scrambling over the rocks having crested the northern peak of Sterkhorn towering 2973m above sea level and conquered some of our fears encountered unexpectedly on the way up. We had taken about five and a half hours to ascend +- 1493m but knew that going down would hopefully be quicker. Descending was a completely different kettle of fish. We were scornful of our apprehension experienced during our ascent, laughing at ourselves. Now, buoyed in the comfort of knowing what lay ahead of us, our spirits lifted. We passed a skaapsteker snake elegantly gliding through a tuft of flowers providing respite from the descent which tested our quadriceps and knees. Our thoughts drifted back in awe to Sue’s words of how they raced up the Sterkhorn and back in 8 hours making us laugh at ourselves hobbling down. We had taken 11 hours

WILDSIDE 2of4 2010

Left to right: Reflecting typical views from the rooms at Champagne Castle Hotel, Wahlenbergia, Falcon Ridge Bird Of Prey Centre.

to traverse 18 km - two hours longer than stipulated on the hiking guide as I indulged my passion for photography endeavoring to capture the natural spendour around us. There was no better place to reach at the end of the day other than Champagne Castle Hotel – what with the underfloor heating soothing our weary feet, a steaming Jacuzzi bath to massage our exhausted muscles, and a delicious buffet waiting for us in the dinning room of the hotel. It was superb. When we finally laid our weary heads down, we vaguely noticed the hooting spotted eagle owl as we drifted off into never never land.

Helicopter flip, Bird Centre and Canopy Tour The next day we did a rather fast 45 minute flip in a helicopter flown from the Dragon Peaks Resort providing us with a bird’s view of the immensity and grandeur of the magnificent uKhahlamba-Drakensberg Mountains. Personally it was not great for photography for me, but an aerial view always gives perspective. The fascinating and informative Falcon Ridge Bird Of Prey Centre was our next outing and we were enthralled by the birds of prey flight displays, with the regal Verrreauxs eagle gliding above us against the spectacular backdrop of the mountains searching for thermals and out manouvering a smaller jackal buzzard defending its territory.

WILDSIDE 2of4 2010

CENTRAL BERG The summit of Sterkhorn consists of two peaks, North and South: The South peak should only be attempted by experienced climbers, the North peak at 2973m can be climbed in a day taking about nine hours over 18km from the Monks Cowl offices requiring a certain amount of fitness and a head for heights. The walk along the contour path to view the Mhlwazeni alley is less challenging than Sterkhorn and should take about eight hours and is a 24 km round trip from the EKZNW Monks Cowl offices.

On our last day I was determined to capture the mountains bathed in the early morning glow. However nature foiled me and I was greeted to an insipid pallet of colours washed across the landscape. We began our early morning walk retracing our steps on our epic Sterkhorn walk at 5:30 am, donning head torches. Two hours later I pressed on leaving Ryan at Breakfast Stream turning right at Blindman’s corner and an hour and a half later was over looking the uMhlawazinii valley with the distinctiveN5Gat Berg or the more attractive Zulu name iNtunja (eye of the needle) in view Phuthatijaba which is what we would have gazed STERKFONTEIN peak. down at from the lofty Sterkhorn DAM NATURE

FALCON RIDGE BIRD OF PREY CENTRE Entrance: R40.00, U12yrs R15.00 displays 10.30 and open every day except Friday. Tel: 082 774 6398 DRAKENSBERG CANOPY TOUR: R450.00 pp including equipment, Harrismith guides, and light lunch.

FREESTATE Tel: 036 468 1981

R74

DRAGONS PEAK HELICOPTER N3 TOUR Cost: 15 – 20 min scenic flight R750.00 pp or R850.00 pp including a landing with champagne.

RESERVE

Tel: Bret 083 652 7493

On the way back I discovered a tiny sentinel car park and mont aux sources via chain ladder shimmering moth nestled all littleinswitzerland purple witsieshoek sipping nectar, everlastings glinting in sungabala montusi the cavern all out adventures the morning sun and baboonsRUGGED drinking hlalanathi 23 GLEN from the mountain streams. 1 THENDELE

R74

Cathedral Peak 3004m

R602

Ladysmith

esiweni nambiti plains

zintulo umzololozo NAMBITI

PRIVATE GAME RESERVE

R103

Bergville

Tel: 036 468 1063 R74 Email: cch@champagnecastlehotel.co.za

Beacon Buttress 3121m Sentinel Peak 3165m Mont-Aux-Sources 3282m

A sign further along the path reading ‘Bushman Paintings’ just 2km away from Champagne Castle Hotel lead me mnweni cultural away from the track and I was greeted centre with a painting depicting antelope. The uKhahlamba-Drakensberg is the richest area in South Africa for San rock paintKH ings forming an incalculable artUtreasure. AH LA The San also possessed poetic qualities M tinged with great mirth as Xameb theBA Bushman said to professor PJ Schoeman: “ I am as old as my disappointments in life and as young as my naughtiest thought.”

R600

Cathkin Peak 3148m

Frere

EXIT 194

caley lodge R10

the nest champagne valley drak. boys resort MONK’S COWL choir NATURE RESERVE drakensberg canopy tours falcon ridge bird monks cowl of prey centre camping and caravan park champagne castle hotel

EXIT 179

Mokhotlong Thaba Ntlenyana 3482m

Escourt

EXIT 168

R29

Champagne Castle 3374m Mafadi 3450m

R103

DIDIMA RESORT & ROCK ART CENTRE

R74

CATHEDRAL PEAK

Colenso

Winterton

Windsor Castle 3065m

Molumong

R103

Cost: from R730 pppns for aEXITstandard 230 room and R1000 pppns for a deluxe N11 R616 SPIOENKOP room. Chalets which sleep a maximum NATURE RESERVE three tree hill lodge 27 per night of six people from R1910 EXIT 220 excluding meals.

thendele resort & camping and caravan park

Malubelube

CHAMPAGNE CASTLE HOTEL

WORLD HE

WILDSIDE FACT TRACKER

ERG SB EN AK DR

The immature Whalberg’s eagle learning to fly and gain confidence in his ability to track thermals higher and higher which he performed admirably encountering a rare Bearded Vulture, commonly known as the Lammergeier on his way. A spotted eagle owl and African Harrier Hawk took centre stage displaying their adaptations to survive

in the wild. The majesty of the birds was tangible at such close quarters, the strength and power in their flight conspicuously evident. Our last stop for the day was at the Drakensberg Canopy Tour, a spectacular way to experience the indigenous Blue Grotto forest, gliding above a gushing river, zipping over tree tops to 14 tree and cliff platforms.

WAGENDRIFT DAM NATURE RESERVE antbear guest house sengani horse trails

INJISUTHI NATURE RESERVE

EXIT 14

hartford house R28

GIANT’S CASTLE NATURE RESERVE HIGHMOOR NATURE RESERVE

silver hill guest lodge

GiantsCastle 3314m

KAMBERG NATURE RESERVE kamberg rock art

Mooiriver

hlatikhulu crane and wetland sanctuary

riverside cottages

Nottingh

Drakensberg Favourites THE ZINGELA SAFARI &RIVER COMPANY NORTHERN DRAKENSBERG

bedrooms en suite. Ph: 036 448 1033 Email: carol.irish@telkomsa.net

SANI PASS HOTEL SOUTHERN DRAKENSBERG

From simple beginnings in 1983, Zingela Camp has evolved slowly over the years. Set deep in the Kingdom of the Zulus on the banks of the Tugela River, it is a romantic haven from the stress of the over-populated world. Whether you book for relaxation, your honeymoon, an adventure filled holiday or conference, Zingela assures you of a special and memorable stay. Ph: 036 354 7005/7250 Email: zingela@futurenet.co.za www.zingelasafaris.co.za

ANTHONY’S B&B NORTHERN DRAKENSBERG

Nestled in the beautiful Mkhomazana valley at the foot of Sani Pass, Sani Pass Hotel and Leisure Resort is renowned for its warm hospitality, breathtaking views and personal service. The Hotel can accommodate up to 150 guests. The range of facilities ensures fun and relaxation for all. Tours up Sani Pass depart daily from the hotel. The Hotel caters for conferences and sporting or other interest groups. Enjoy the beauty of what the Berg has to offer in the comfort of this premier Drakensberg resort. Ph:033 702 1320 Email: info@sanipasshotel.co.za Web:www.sanipasshotel.co.za

SANI VALLEY LODGE SOUTHERN DRAKENSBERG

Anthony’s B&B has easy access to all areas of the Central and Northern Berg. We are in the middle of the range and have a direct view of Cathedral Peak and the mountains up to Champagne Castle. Enjoy the large swimming pool with sun loungers and covered verandah. Five bedrooms en suite with queen beds and good amenities. There is also a self-catering unit with two

WILDSIDE 2of4 2010

Sani Valley Lodge is a private game lodge situated at the base of the Sani Pass overlooking a 260 acre lake – one of the most well known fly fishing spots in the Drakensberg. Luxury

accommodation includes selfcatering lodges, or the option of using the highly trained staff to prepare meals for you. If you would like to be totally indulgent, take advantage of the delicious menu and relax in the privacy of your lodge. Sani Valley Lodge offers luxury, privacy, refinement, tranquillity and an array of activities. Ask about the honeymoon lodges with jacuzzis. Ph: 033 7020203 Cell: 082 5613275 Fax: 033 7020203 Email: info@sanivalley.co.za www.sanivalley.co.za

LAKE NAVERONE SOUTHERN DRAKENSBERG

There are 19 picturesque stone cottages, some situated on the lakeside and some in tranquil clearings shadowed by the surrounding woods, which provide fully serviced, selfcatering accommodation. The accommodation varies in size from two to twelve sleepers.

Lake Naverone is situated 30km from Underberg on a newly tarred road. A well maintained 1000m landing strip and hireable lock-up hangar make it easily accessible by air. Ph: 033 701 1236 Email: info@lakenaverone.co.za www.lakenaverone.co.za

INVERSANDA MIDLANDS

In a valley among the foothills of the southern Drakensberg occurs a secluded lake, called Lake Naverone, an idyllic natural retreat lying amidst a World Heritage site and far from the distractions of modern life. This is where Paul and Jenny van Tichelen chose to set their dream, and to share it with others. Lake Naverone is an idyllic Berg retreat where you and your family can enjoy a true natural experience amidst this World Heritage site, all year round. The lake and surrounding 400-hectare estate, provide an awesome environment for a variety of outdoor activities such as trout fishing including river and lake, hiking, mountain biking, horse riding, birding and photography.

Would your family like to experience life on a farm? Meet Matilda the cow who loves children and considers herself part of the family; help feed the horses; watch the calves cavorting in the fields and let Harold, the jack russell, show you wonderful river walks. Inversanda isn’t just a lovely place to stay, it’s an experience your children will not forget. Tel: 033 234 4321 Email: bate@nitrosoft.co.za www.inversanda.co.za

KARKLOOF CANOPY TOUR

GROUNDCOVER MIDLANDS

MIDLANDS

The Karkloof Canopy Tour is a unique eco-experience that takes people on a 3-hr adventure through the magnificent Karkloof indigenous forest. The canopy tour involves traversing from one platform to another along a steel cable suspended up to 30m above the forest floor. The tour comprises seven platforms and eight slides that zig-zag down a pristine forested valley. The scenery and birdlife is spectacular and professional guides provide interesting facts about the forest ecology during the tour.

Groundcover Leather Company’s shop was prefabricated in England and first shipped to South Africa over a hundred years ago, to begin its life as a farmhouse in Creighton, KZN. Today it nestles in Groundcovers’s magnificent gardens in Curry’s Post, where it holds a veritable treasure of leather goods. Ph: 033 330 6092 Email. info@groundcover.co.za www.groundcover.co.za

All of these fine beers, in their unique packaging, are available in the following quantities: 500ml Bottles - Any time thirst quencher 500ml x 4 “Buggy” - Try them all 1 litre Bottles - A relaxing sundowner 2 litre Bottles - Sundowner with a friend 5 litre Chubby’s - Your weekend tipple. 30 litre Kegs - Party time 50 litre kegs - Serious Party time. You can hire a keg with party barrel for your parties, company events, or weddings. “We’ll change your taste for Beer for good!” Ph:033 266 6728 Email:brewery@rawdons.co.za Web:www.rawdons.co.za

KLEINBERG WINES MIDLANDS

NOTTINGHAM ROAD BREWING CO. MIDLANDS

THE OLD HATCHERY UNDERBERG

Underberg is the perfect location from where you can explore the southern Drakensberg. You can visit Lesotho by driving there in your 4x4, or we can arrange a day trip with Major Adventures. After lunch at the highest pub in southern Africa you will return to The Old Hatchery where you can relax in the quietness of the country. Oak Tree Lodge has six bedrooms. Enjoy an evening meal and browse through the art gallery which boasts the work of local artists Catherine and Lawrence Brennon. Tel: 082 602 7020 Email: bookings@theoldhatchery. co.za www.oldhatchery.co.za

ENGELENI LODGE KAMBERG VALLEY

Karkloof is the second largest indigenous forest in South Africa and it is where you will find people of all ages experiencing slides of up to 175m long which takes them amongst the birds, monkeys, trees and plants of this magnificent forest. There’s enough time on the platforms for you to enjoy the view and take photographs too. This is for everyone with both a sense of adventure as well as a love of beauty and nature. Ideal for team building, children’s parties, anniversaries. Tel: 033 330 3415 or 076 2412888 Email: info@karkloofcanopytour. co.za www.karkloofcanopytour.co.za

NRBC started in 1996 as a small micro brewery making 50lt of beer for the Rawdons Hotel where they are based. From there the brewery gained some fame and the co. was formed and so began the journey of the four lads. The brewery tuns were soon upgraded to 1000lt and fermentation vats added to take the capacity to 21 000lt a month.

The success of NRBC lies in the outstanding range of naturally brewed ales and lagers. Using only the purest spring water, finest hops and malted barley creating beers of exceptional character like their names: Pickled Pig, Whistling Weasel, Pie-eyed Possum, and Tiddly Toad. NRBC does not pasturize their beers.

Amble down the Mount West road and you will discover the enchanting world of Kleinberg Wines at Kleinbosch Estate. Take time out for wine tasting, cheese platters, fly-fishing, horse riding or clay pigeon shooting while your children enjoy the large jungle gym, trampoline or haystack.

Also try the light lunches and a selection of goodies from our deli. Booking is essential for riding and shooting. Ph: 033 266 6170 Fax: 033 266 6175 Cell: 083 280 3898 Email: kate@kleinberg.co.za www.kleinberg.co.za

Engeleni Lodge is the ‘’Jewel in the Crown of the Kamberg Valley’’. Nestled under the Kamberg Mountain on an operational dairy farm, enjoy magnificent sweeping views of the uKhahlamba Drakensberg World Heritage Park from the front lawn. Fish the 7kms of wild brown trout waters on the Little Mooi River, or any of the three trout dams. The trophy Nymph Dam is situated in the garden in front of the Lodge and Mayfly Cottage. The Lodge boasts five luxury double bedrooms, open log fires in the elegant lounge, dining room and cosy pub. It has a fully equipped kitchen/ family room with under-floor heating and satellite TV. The Mayfly Cottage is self contained, offers a romantic, cosy and luxurious en suite

WILDSIDE 2of4 2010

bedroom, lounge/dinning with big log fireplace and fully equipped kitchen. The Lodge and Cottage are fully serviced and offer selfcatering or catering by request only at the time of booking. Engeleni Lodge is AA Quality Assured ‘’Superior’’ rated and 4 stars with the TGC of South Africa.

The Kamberg Valley is approximately two and a half hours drive from King Shaka International Airport and five hours from O.T International Airport, Johannesburg. The Giant’s Castle and Kamberg Nature Reserves are an hour away. This particular area of the Drakensberg is famous for its spectacular scenery and San Rock Art.

The Lodge is well known for its rivers and lakes providing abundant rainbow and brown trout fishing, all year round. Other activities in the area include hot air ballooning over magnificent scenery, horse riding, mountain biking, hiking and birding. Polo, in the winter, and golf facilities are also readily available.

The Kamberg valley is in close proximity to the Midlands Meander which incorporates shopping, local art and crafts, health Spas and restaurants. Ph: 033 2677218 Fax: 033 267710 E-mail: engeleni@futurenet.co.za; www.engeleni-lodge.co.za

WILDSIDE 2of4 2010

BEACON VLEI MIDLANDS

TILLIETUDLEM PRIVATE GAME & TROUT FARM

QAMBATHI MOUNTAIN LODGE MIDLANDS

MIDLANDS

Nestling in the rolling hills of the Natal Midlands, overlooking its private 23 hectare dam, Beacon Vlei has a beauty and serenity which seduces, and imparts to one a state of supreme wellbeing and inner tranquillity. After a stay at Beacon Vlei one returns to the city refreshed, invigorated and ready to face the challenges of life.

Formerly known by generations of Michaelhouse old boys as ‘Cliffes’s Dam’ Beacon Vlei now offers discerning guests the choice of luxurious four star B&B accommodation in the Manor House, and in its two separate freestanding homes, The Boat House and Crane Cottage. Fireplaces abound throughout the establishment for those icy winter days and nights and all the bedrooms have heaters to further enhance the comfort of the percale cotton bed linen.

With magnificent views, fishing, birding and hiking, Beacon Vlei is ideal as a family getaway, a lovers retreat, or an ideal venue for a mini conference. Tel: 033 2344 486 www.beaconvlei.co.za Email: stay@beaconvlei.co.za

Winter in a place of beauty and tranquillity…Not far from the hustle and bustle of city life, you will discover a secret place on the slopes of the majestic Inhluzane Mountain. Tillietudlem is a feast for the senses – enjoy the herds of eland grazing in the snow, zebra, blesbok, wildebeest and the rare oribi amongst others, a variety of birdlife to delight, and the elusive Cape clawless and spottedn otter.

You’ll undoubtedly be tempted to cast a fly on one of four of the best stocked dams in the area. If your preference is hiking, mountain biking or just relaxing, Tillietudlem offers it all. Whether you are staying in the four star Colonial House, with its outstanding reputation for fine cuisine, the self-catering Hlega Manzi Lodge perched above the laughing waters of the Elands River, or the Milk Parlour Cottage, at the end of your perfect day you will be drawn back to enjoy a warming drink in front of a roaring fire.

Comfort is everything and there is nothing nicer than snuggling down in a warm electric blanketed bed, warm fires going, heated bathrooms. Visit us for a Midlands winter experience Ph: 033 2344 226 Email: tillietudlem@mweb.co.za www.tillietudlem.co.za

Looking for something different in the Drakensberg, visit Qambathi Mountain Lodge. Original art form an integral part of the exclusive handmade furniture and decor used, setting new standards in the Midlands. Relax and enjoy the welcoming atmosphere from the sala seats or pool loungers on the chill deck, while overlooking the gardens and mountains.

Cooking, art and fly tying courses are just some of the activities on offer. Take a scenic drive in an open game viewer to explore the magnificent view from on top of the mountain, while horse rides are available for the more energetic.

Situated in the secluded Kamberg Valley, close enough to enjoy the Midlands Meander or the Rock Art at Kamberg, while superb hiking can be done on the reserve or at Highmoor Reserve, only 5 kilometres away. Experience fine dining based on the rich African culture and its diverse cuisine. Ph: 083 279 7105 Email: gerhard@qambathi.co.za www.qambathi.co.za

CHAMPAGNE SPORTS RESORT The perfect hideaway for work and play

It’s taken millions of years to create the magnificent backdrop to Champagne Sports Resort. Nothing can make a more perfect setting than the rugged peaks and lush green valleys of the Central Drakensberg mountain range.

Contact: +27 36 468 8000 Email: conferences@ champagnesportsresort.com www.champagnesportsresort.com

This cosy hideaway's unique combination of convenient location, country club atmosphere, luxury accommodation and friendly staff makes packing your bags to leave a challenge. Just under four hours drive from Johannesburg and two hours from Durban, the resort is ideally situated for both corporate conferences and relaxing leisure weekends. The facilities available at Champagne Sports Resort make this spectacular venue the perfect place to work and play. Following recent hotel developments, the resort can now accommodate up to 700 delegates at the foot of the majestic Drakensberg mountains. The site now boasts a total of nine conference venues, including the new state-of-the-art Summit Exhibition Centre and

the new 1000-seat Sentinel Room, while the smaller, more intimate rooms seat between 18 and 380 delegates. Conferences are an extremely important sector of Champagne Sports business profile and every effort is made to ensure the smooth running of such events, no matter the size. With worldclass conference facilities and various indoor and outdoor breakaway areas, Champagne Sports Resort is an ideal venue for your meeting. The resort offers the most up-to-date equipment available including Crestron hand held controls, and standard equipment including overhead projectors and screens, white boards, flip charts, a television and VCR machine, and a 35mm projector and screens.

mountains - it is an experience. Between the roaming herds of Blesbok and rare wildlife that inhabits the estate, there is something for everyone to enjoy. With outstanding sporting facilities and cultural activities, this enduring resort provides a balance between recreation for sports enthusiasts and tranquillity for those seeking relaxation. Nestled within this spectacular leisure, conference and timeshare resort is the magnificent clubhouse, which overlooks a hidden golfing masterpiece. The top 25 ranked championship golf course is rapidly growing in stature and was recently rated as South Africa’s most beautiful golf course. So whether you’re wearing a golf cap or your thinking cap there is no better place to find inspiration!

Champagne Sports Resort is more than a hotel in the

WILDSIDE 2of4 2010

Southern Drakensberg

Penwarn

A Place of Peace

Peter Bendheim visited Penwarn and shares his experience of this delightful southern ‘Berg spot which is also featured on the cover of this edition. Peter and Adele Parker took the photographs.

The noise and grime of Durban seems a lifetime away as we drive very cautiously down a steep and narrow farm road into the deep valley that contains, almost womb-like, the Penwarn Trout and Equine Estate. It’s 16 km along a gravel road from Underberg in the heart of the pristine southern Drakensberg, and along a road barely affected by tourist development. It’s an early autumn evening, and outside the car it is absolutely quiet and still, the landscape illuminated only by the car headlights and a distant pale moon. I find it hard to imagine in this calm place, that on a farm just three kilometers away, Splashy Fen breaks the peace every year with its annual flood of music, and a few thousand young pleasure seekers anxious to let it all hang loose.

WILDSIDE 2of4 2010

When we finally arrive at the main lodge, Ndabusche, we are warmly welcomed by estate manager, Henry Hibbet and his wife Debbie, and taken to our comfortable room complete with fireplace and a Victorian style bath. Dinner is waiting on our arrival, home cooked country fare in a dining room with a roaring fire. A few warming drinks later, coupled with a heavy dose of country air, and we are ready to sink into a soft bed. In the soft light of morning, we finally get to see our surroundings, and they are indeed beautiful. The original lodge, parts of which comprise a refurbished century-old sandstone shed, lies alongside a small dam, complete with canoes and a statue of Nimrod, a somewhat cheeky tame otter that has almost legendary status. Along the farm road are magnificent oaks, their leaves gold and rust coloured by the changing seasons. While Ndabusche, with its seven comfortable rooms is nestled sleepily in the valley, its sister lodge, Mtini, meaning ‘otter’,

four suites is definitely the place to stay, and if you take all four rooms, you can opt for self-catering. There are lots of accommodation options and you can select the one that suits your lifestyle. If self-catering is your thing, you can choose from an isolated and rustic (and very popular) log cabin that sleeps four, to Kudu Lodge, with 6 beds, or the Riverside Cottage which accommodates ten. Otherwise, its good old-fashioned dinner, bed and breakfast at the main lodge. Penwarn is a freespirited sort of place, both in terms of accommodation and the choices you make with your time. You could, for example choose to do nothing other than read a book, or catch some trout, ride some of the gentle horses, go game viewing, or simply hike for hours on end in what must be some of the most beautiful and diverse countryside in South Africa.

is an altogether different experience. Perched high on a hill, overlooking a large natural dam, Mtini has expansive and incredible views across the valley and onto the southern Drakensberg. One could quite easily sit on the rustic wooden deck for an entire day, mesmerised by the changing light and colours of the valley and the distant mountains. Warm and golden in the morning, a deep purple in the late afternoon, then finally fire-etched as the sun sinks behind them as dusk approaches. The day is reflected mirror-like in the dam below, which barely ripples in the soft air. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s like being in a huge IMAX theatre, but itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s all real and not twodimensional celluloid. The lodge with its

WILDSIDE 2of4 2010

Harrismith

FREESTATE

R74

Phuthatijaba

STERKFONTEIN DAM NATURE RESERVE T

sentinel car park and mont aux sources via chain ladder

Ladysmith

WILDSIDE 2of4 2010

zintulo umzolo NAMBITI

N11

R616

The air is almost too pure and fresh for SPIOENKOP NATURE RESERVE three tree hill us city folk, and by then end27 oflodgethe day, thendele resort & camping and THENDELE caravan park we are ready to drift into sleep. It’s a Bergville Back at Penwarn, we sit in the warm place of peace and magic, and a place to cosy bar, chatting to the ever-helpful restore both body and soul. Winterton Henry about the wildlife on the estate. mnweni cultural centre A former long-time staffer of Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife, Henry is a store of knowlWILDSIDE FACT TRACKER CATHEDRAL PEAK caley lodge edge about the local birds and aniDIDIMA RESORT & PENWARN 3 ROCK ART CENTRE the nest mals. “There are some 280 bird species, champagne valley drak. boys resort 17 MONK’S COWL choir U NATURE RESERVE K including rehabilitated owls, and fishH drakensberg canopy tours Where: Just outside Underberg on the falcon ridge bird AH monks cowl prey centre and Bushman's Nekcamping road, in ofthe foothills of eagles, and we have a vulture restaurant LA caravan park champagne castle hotel MB Southern Drakensberg. for the rare bearded vulture,” he says. A INJISUTHI 16 Accommodation: Self-catering units NATURE RESERVE “In addition, we have three species of start from around R200ppn, and lodge crane – the crown, blue and the highly accommodation is around R1050 ppn, endangered wattled crane.” dinner, bed and breakfast. Prices vary

PRIVATE GAME RESER

R74

hlalanathi

R103

EXIT 220

Beacon Buttress 3121m Sentinel Peak 3165m Mont-Aux-Sources 3282m

R74

Colens

R74

R600

Frere

EXIT 194

Cathedral Peak 3004m

R103 R10 EXIT 179

Windsor Castle 3065m

R29

Champagne Castle 3374m

WAGENDRIFT DAM NATURE RESERVE antbear guest ho sengani horse trails

Mafadi 3450m

hartford house R28

GIANT’S CASTLE NATURE RESERVE

by accommodation type and season. HIGHMOOR Midweek and other specials are run NATURE RESERVE frequently and are available on their 22 Mokhotlong GiantsCastle 3314m website. KAMBERG 18

There are also eland, springbuck, Malubelube wildebeest, zebra, blesbuck and wild otters – as well as Cape foxes and caraMolumong cal. But Penwarn is not without its animal oddities – first there was Nimrod, the otter, and now there is Zedonk, a LESOTHO zebra cross donkey, a curious beast with a donkey’s body and striped stocking legs.

NATURE RESERVE

Thaba Ntlenyana 3482m

N But it’s the landscape that really holds the most appeal, with breathtaking W views, and a palette of colours, from deep blue skies, to golden grasslands, verdant S green fields and violet-indigo mountains. It really is big sky country, and at night the sky is sprinkled with clusters of stars.

Tel Lodge: Tel: 033 7011 368 LOTHENI or 033 NATURE RESERVE 7011 651, Fax: +27 (0) 86 196116 439

Drakensberg &Midlands Map.indd 1

silver hill guest lodge

riverside cottages

gasuta lodge

Email: info@penwarn.com or pdomVERGELEGEN NATURE RESERVE mett@mweb.co.za www.penwarn.com

shuttlew wea bramleigh manor

bar country

SANI PASS

hlatikhulu crane and wetland sanctuary

kamberg rock art centre

Cell: 082 773 9923 or 082 922 2091

EXIT 168

Cathkin Peak 3148m

WORLD HERITA G E SIT E

“Kids often drag their parents from Penwarn to see the farm and the dairy”, says Peter. “But it’s usually the dads who

sungabala montusi the cavern all out adventures

end up wanting to stay the longest as RUGGED 23 GLEN they just enjoy the experience so much.” 1

EXIT 230

ERG SB EN AK DR

But the breeding of carthorses and draft horses remain his true passion. He explains that he initially started using these gentle giants as workhorses, as an alternative and eco-friendly solution to tractors. As a visitor to Penwarn, you can ride on horseback, either for leisure, or to go game viewing. We are both somewhat cautious of horses, to put it mildly, but these equine friends are gentle and calm, and I would have happily spent the afternoon on one, wandering the lands.

es na

little switzerland

witsieshoek

Penwarn itself is on 1000 hectares of land. It was recently purchased by adjacent farmer, horse breeder and vet, Peter Dommett, and together with his farm, Waterford, the entire property is some 3000 hectares in extent. Peter is very enthusiastic about the amalgamation and is keen to promote agri-tourism, blending farm life, the great outdoors and wild game into a comprehensive family experience. His dairy farm, one of the largest in the province, has some 2000 milking cows producing some 30 000 litres of milk daily, as well as 4000 head of cattle.

R103

GARDEN CASTLE NATURE RESERVE drakensberg gardens hotel

sani pass hotel COBHAM STATE FOREST sani valley lodge

KWAZULU-NATAL Himeville HIMEVILLE NATURE RESERVE

lake navarone

BUSHMANS NEK

tillietu and

Underberg R617

penwarn

COLEFORD NATURE RESERVE

R617

Bulwer

Tel/Fax: (033) 702 0203 www.sanivalley.co.za

PBGM>K PHKE= <NI LI><B:E# OZeb] _khf * Cng^ & ,* Cner

Escape the World crowds forintranquility Escape the World Cup crowds forCup tranquility the beautiful Drakensberg. in the beautiful Drakensberg.

LmZr _hk - gbàml iZr _hk , LmZr _hk - gbàml iZr _hk , LmZr _hk 1 gbàml iZr _hk / LmZr _hk 1 gbàml iZr _hk /

#!=bgg^k% [^] [k^Zd_Zlm ii(g laZkbg`" #!=bgg^k% [^] [k^Zd_Zlm ii(g laZkbg`" >QMK: *) H?? @KHNIL H? M>G HK FHK> >QMK: *) H?? @KHNIL H? M>G HK FHK>

)1/* L:GB I:LL )1/* L:GB I:LL )0+ 000 +)),)0+ 000 +)), )1/* 0+/- 0+00 )1/* 0+/- 0+00

LHNMA>KG =K:D>GL;>K@

ppp'lZgbiZllahm^e'\h'sZ u bg_h9ZZkhglmZg`^k'\hf

Hi Des Please find attached the info for the ad - the Tillietudlem Wildside original is also attached. I want to change it as per new copy and pics. It is 1/2 page so the pics should look reasonably well sized. Thank you very much. Please don't hesitate to call should you need anything else. Warm regards Carol

TILLIETUDLEM GAME & TROUT LODGE

Kleinberg Wines at

Clay Pigeon Shooting

Kleinbosch Estate

Adventure activities / Family entertainment / Deli shop / Light lunches

Fishing

Riding

Wine Tasting and Cheese Platters

(033) 266 6170 / (083) 280 3898 / sales@kleinberg.co.za / www.kleinberg.co.za

Inversanda Inversanda is a country loverâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s haven situated in the beautiful Dargle valley in the Midlands of KwaZulu-Natal. Acclaimed as the true definition of hospitality and hand picked by the prestigious Greenwood Guide, Inversanda is also a safe retreat for walking, birding, horse riding, mountain biking or trout fishing. Come and join us, weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re at the end of the road. Tel: 033 234 4321 www.inversanda.co.za

Inversanda.indd 1

6/8/09 2:06:20 PM

Essential Forests Forests are essential to a healthy environment, sustaining vital plants and wildlife, filtering water and air, and reducing greenhouse gases by removing carbon dioxide from the atmosphere. Forests are also an economic resource, providing a plentiful, renewable natural material used to produce products, many of them recyclable. Wildside spoke to Sappi to find out more about two projects namely the Karkloof Conservation Centre and the Marutswa Forest Trail and Boardwalk, both in KwaZulu-Natal, and both of which contribute significantly to the protection of forests and the promotion of biodiversity. SAFEGUARDING BIODIVERSITY OF THE LAND AND HER PEOPLE Of the 369,000ha of land owned by Sappi in South Africa, about 34% is unplanted and managed for biodiversity conservation. Approximately 19,500ha of this unplanted land consists of roads, villages, offices and houses. Of the remaining land 54,400ha or 40% is grassland, 12,360ha is indigenous forest, 5,900ha is woodland, and 4,300ha is wetland all in good condition providing excellent habitat for plant and animal species. This is borne out by the fact that 455 bird species - nearly half of all bird species that occur in South Africa - have been recorded on Sappi plantations along with 52 red data (rare, threatened or endangered) species and have some sites that conserve high pro-

WILDSIDE 2of4 2010

file species such as oribi, various crane species, the Karkloof Blue Butterfly and the very rare mistbelt moss frog (Arthroleptella ngongoniensis).

COMMUNITY INVOLVEMENT Established in 2000, the Sappi WWF Tree-Routes Partnership in South Africa introduced community-based eco-tourism business ventures as an alternative to the non-sustainable use of local forests and wetlands. Partnership projects include the Wakkerstroom Training Centre, Thonga Beach Lodge and Mabibi Campsite, Dlinza Aerial Boardwalk, Karkloof Conservation Centre, Marutswa

Karkloof Conservation Centre: A Sappi funded sanctuary for many threatened bird species amongst which to be found are all three species of cranes. One of the two bird hides where the public can chance the opportunity to spot the wattled cranes (photos©Karkloof conservancy).

in preserving biodiversity and provides an ideal way for people to generate wealth in areas where little other opportunities exist. Wildside visited two of these projects: Karkloof Conservation Centre and Marutswa Forest Trail and Boardwalk.

KARKLOOF CONSERVATION CENTRE The Karkloof Conservancy covers approximately 40,000 ha and this area includes wetlands, grasslands and the last largest remaining tract of mistbelt forest. Many threatened species occur here – these being all three species of crane, Cape parrot, southern ground hornbill, bald ibis, denham bustards, oribi, the Karkloof Blue Butterfly, black stinkwood trees, and samango monkeys. This area has been highlighted by conservationists as being a biodiversity hotspot.

Above: One of Karkloof's mist-belt forests home to the Karkloof Blue Butterfly, emerald cuckoos, knysna loeries, crowned and martial eagles, and the fearless tree swinging samago monkeys. (photo©wildside magazine) Right: Marutswa Forest, Bulwer has been described as being amongst the most active mist-belt forests in KwaZulu-Natal. Home to the Cape parrots, attracted by the seeds and nesting potential of the forest's yellow wood trees,they are often found in flocks of up to 100 birds (photo© cape parrot: Stan Culley: and forest: Michael Cowell).

Birders are attracted to the bird hides as many want to see the wattled cranes. There are only 240 wattled cranes left in South Africa, of which 220 occur in KwaZulu-Natal. This bird is now critically endangered. The Conservancy is also involved in the Wattled Crane Recovery Programme and is working with the Endangered Wildlife Trust by helping to identify all active wattled crane nesting sites in the area. Second eggs will be removed from the nests, hatched and then sent to the

Johannesburg Zoo where the chick will be raised and later released back into the Natal Midlands. This project is set to expand to the KZN Crane Foundation which is situated within the Bill Barnes Crane and Oribi Nature Reserve which was recently proclaimed under the Biodiversity Stewardship Programme. The Karkloof Conservation Centre, opened in 2007, comprises an information and education centre, a tranquil picnic site and braai area, as well as two world-class birdhides. The Conservancy is involved in the community through a variety of projects including conservation projects at schools, and undertakes an annual game count, arranges top speakers on conservation matters for the community, as well as plays host to the Karkloof Classic Bike Ride, the Karkloof Adventure Quest and more recently The 3 Cranes Challenge.

MARUTSWA FOREST TRAIL AND BOARDWALK The Marutswa Forest Trail and Boardwalk is built on an old logging

Forest Trail and Boardwalk, Ongonye Birder’s Camp and the Southern KwaZulu-Natal Birding Route, in conjunction with BirdLife South Africa. Involving communities through ecotourism is giving them a vested interest

WILDSIDE 2of4 2010

Marutswa Forest Trail and Board Walk: A network of arterial trails leading into the indigenous forest and a number of lookout points, allow visitors exceptional opportunities to view the birdlife. (photos© Ria Fokkens, Michael Cowell and Keith Valentine).

site used in the late 1800s and is named after a local Zulu man ‘Mahustjwa’ who harvested sneezewood trees to sell as railway sleepers. The lower walk of the contour trail is part of the old logging route which was used by oxen and mules to drag timber for sale in Durban and Pietermaritzburg. The Marutswa Forest Trail and Boardwalk, located close to the quaint country village of Bulwer on the R617, profiles and promotes the conservation of Bulwer’s unique biodiversity by supporting eco-tourism and eco education initiatives that leads to the conservation of threatened forest habitats. The project has so far provided three full time jobs for local community members as custodians of the project, as well as a welcome platform for local crafters to sell their original and unusual handicrafts. The site comprises a network of arterial trails leading into the indigenous forest, where there are a number of lookout jetties, boardwalk sections, picnic sites decks and view points, allowing visitors to view the various layers of the forest, including the canopy.

Birds, Mammals and Trees The Marutswa Forest has been described by some of South Africa’s top birding tour operators as one of the most active mist-belt forests in KwaZulu-Natal. The forest is home to a vast number of rare and interesting birds. Cape parrots, sadly endangered and dwindling in numbers in South Africa are attracted by the seeds, and the nesting potential of the plentiful yellow wood trees and are often found in flocks of up to 100 birds in the forest. Specials to look out for are Cape 40

WILDSIDE 2of4 2010

parrot, orange ground-thrush, African crowned eagle, bush blackcap, whitestarred robin, buff-spotted flufftail, narina trogon, grey cuckooshrike, yellowthroated woodland-warbler, crowned and southern ground hornbill. Attracted to the pristine forest habitat bush buck and reed buck are frequent visitors to the forest, as are a herd of bush pig that freely forage. Rock dassies have been seen and the call of the tree dassie has also been heard in the forest. Very recently mongooses were also seen around the forest boardwalk. Natal dwarf chameleons and several species of butterfly such as the emperor swallowtail can also be found. Within the forest there are a number of very large and old yellowwoods of about the same age and size, surviving simultaneously because they were too small to harvest for logging during the late 1800s. On the upper contour of the walk you will also be enchanted by the very ancient vines that twine and spread through the tree canopies for miles on end. You will also encounter amongst many other tree species: cabbage trees, white ironwood, knobwood, black stink wood, sneezewood, lemonwood, wild currant, wild quince, and tree fuchsia.

An indigenous nursery The forest hosts a rich selection of wild plants and grasses, including a large variety of ferns, wild lilies including the ‘paint brush’, ground and tree orchids, wild dagga and wild iris. The forest has just opened an indigenous nursery where you can find well priced plants and tree saplings.

Owl spotting and picnics The Marutswa craft shop offers items made by crafters from the surrounding communities, including baskets, pots, wire and woven gifts as well as jewellery and carvings. Have a light snack at the forest café or join us for one of our delicious and poetic candle lit suppers for an owl or chameleon spotting. Why not end your visit to the forest with a picnic or a braai curry or a potjie around the firepit. The Marutswa Forest is always happy to specially cater for groups when booked in advance.

WILDSIDE FACT TRACKER MARUTSWA Entrance: R20 pp and R5 scholars. Preschoolers free. Situated: Outside Bulwer on the R617. Open 7 days a week. Coffee shop open from Wednesday to Sunday. Accredited birding guide on request. Tel: 071 4195 238 or 073 543 8545 Group bookings email: bulwerbisophere@gmail.com

KARKLOOF Entrance: R20 pp and R10 for children. School groups welcome. Situated: 15kms outside Howick on the Karkloof Road. Tel: 033 3302992 (Wed, Thurs and Friday mornings best time to call.) Email: karkloofcentre@telkomsa.net Open 7 days a week. For further information on Sappi projects visit www.sappi.com

WAVECREST UNINTENDED LEGEND

Jennifer Crawford visited Wavecrest Resort on the Wild Coast to discover a laid back resort owned by an unapologetic conservationist who is about to hand it over to a new caretaker. Photographs by Eddie Crawford

The yellowing newspaper articles are more than 10 years old and are haphazardly affixed to the walls of the lounge and bar area of Wavecrest Resort. The many press clippings with their curling corners and faded photographs are almost inconsequential. As I start to read them, I’m transported back to what was once a gripping time in the life of this resort when the almost impossible happened. A man and a community stood up against a mining giant and prevented the complete ruination of a variety of ecosystems. The man was Conrad Winterbach, owner of Wavecrest, who together with the people of Nombanjane, fought Iscor. It was a long and gruelling battle. It shouldn’t have been, there was an absolute imbalance of power. Conrad and the community had few resources and the giant had bags of goodies including promises of unprecedented wealth, jobs and good fortune. Soon,

WILDSIDE 2of4 2010

the once peaceful and united community was divided. Some unemployed pro-mining community members were miraculously sporting new cars, while the community leader of the anti-mining lobby was allegedly murdered. Conrad was threatened with murder. Iscor wanted the titanium, despite the fact that other mining companies had turned it down because of the extreme environmental sensitivity. Richards Bay Mining was the very first company to be offered the mineral rights at Wavecrest. They did an environmental impact study, and turned it down. Not Iscor, they pursued it relentlessly. The intrigue and political posturing, the lies and deceit, the trickery and trouble, the fight had all the hallmarks of an epic drama. It’s a book on its own. The climax was in November 1998 when at a mass meeting which included the surrounding communities, politicians, and the press, the now angry community told all publicly that they did not want their land destroyed and would not allow it. They politely advised the mining representatives to leave as

Photographed from the southern banks of the Kobonqaba Estuary on the Wild Coast at the Wave Crest Resort. This unique and pristine mangrove-lined estuary which has significant implications for marine life, was once under threat of being destroyed. A quirk in the ocean current results in the mangroves being the most southerly manifestation in the world.

WILDSIDE 2of4 2010

soon as possible as their safety could not be guaranteed. Conrad chuckles when he regales the tale and mostly downplays his role. However, his role is well documented, and his commitment to the environment unwavering.

What was being protected? A unique and pristine mangrove-lined estuary with significant implications for marine life was what was ultimately being protected. Wavecrest is situated 160km north of East London, on the southern banks of the Kobonqaba Estuary (32° 36’ S; 28° 29’E) which drains into the Indian Ocean. This system drains a catchment area of 320 square kilometres. What makes this estuary unique is a quirk in the ocean current which causes the clear, warm Agulhas current

will be food for the crabs and prawns, which will be food for the fish, and so this living, productive estuary, will deliver tons of protein to the ocean which depends on estuaries.

The finest angling ever Geoff Thomassen, renowned angler, and father of Craig Thomassen who is co-author of Fishing Yourself Single, and of Inside Angling television fame, was at Wavecrest when we visited. (And… Craig Thomassen, according to Geoff, is in fact only the second best fisherman in South Africa.) Keen fishermen at the hotel nonchalantly kept a close eye on where Geoff was fishing each day in the hopes that they would find out about a secret spot and learn some of the skills which make him a hugely successful angler. Geoff was

forests are considered to be some of the finest examples in South Africa. We had headed out to sea earlier that day with Conrad and spotted a large pod of more than 100 dolphins. Conrad said this was a small pod in comparison to those seen during the sardine run. We got chatting and he said that Wavecrest is blessed with many superb different ecological environments which needed to be protected and preserved at all costs. “This takes precedence over even the wishes of our guests,” he says. For those who want to canoe peacefully up a river, who enjoy birding or fishing, or taking long walks along unspoilt beaches, or delight in pursuits such looking for mud prawns, or sundowners on a river with the sounds of a fish-eagle, then Wavecrest is for you. There is also a delightful Spa. Rumour has it that when

A unique and pristine mangrove-lined estuary with significant implications for marine life was what was ultimately being protected. to flow into the Kobonqaba Estuary. It ‘kisses the mainland’ where the continental shelf is at its narrowest which is at Wavecrest. The resulting mangroves are the most southerly manifestation on the planet – and one of very few in Africa that are expanding.

Oceans depend on estuaries Estuaries are not only nurseries, but tenderly hold and drive the origins of the many food chains to be found. The primary source of food for many organisms on estuaries, including bacteria, is detritus from settlement of the sedimentation. The irony of the detrital effect, where all the debris provides food and creates life, is not lost on Conrad. “The estuary is a conversion of death to life,” he says. The health of an estuary then, is proportionate to what dies in an estuary. The mangroves are part of this system. In a sacrificial effort to preserve themselves, some leaves of the mangroves turn yellow and die, dropping into the estuary to form organic matter which

WILDSIDE 2of4 2010

rewarded with “a nice sized steenbras” the first morning and we had a chance to chat to Geoff.

quad bikers arrive on the beach Conrad runs down to them waving his arms chasing them away.

“Wavecrest offers some of the very finest angling – rock, surf, estuarine, riverine, fly or deep-sea. I have been coming here for 20 years, and the stringent conservation practices is the reason that fishermen are rewarded with excellent catches,” said Geoff as he rattled off some of the fish to be found here… kob, silver steenbras, black steenbras, bronze bream, garrick, grunter, perch and skipjack. Numerous top fishing magazines and television programes, also rate Wavecrest.

Wavecrest takes guests up the Nxaxo or Nqusi rivers daily at high tide. Scan the estuarine mudflats for wader species such as sanderling, grey plover or ruddy turnstone. The dunes adjacent to the Nxaxo River are covered in dense indigenous dune forest which boasts specials such as the spotted ground thrush, narina trogon and blue-mantled crested-flycatcher. We saw a trumpeter hornbill on our river cruise, but missed the pair of resident fish eagles. The nearby grasslands behind the resort host a completely different set of species and we spotted and photographed the blackwinged lapwing.

Dunes and dolphin viewing As I looked out onto the large shimmering golden sand dunes which separate the indigenous forests from endless stretches of unspoilt beaches while I lay tanning on my own private stretch of beach, I couldn’t help but think how tragic it would have been to have lost all of this to mining. The coastal dune

A large colony of crowned cranes that have roosted on an island in the estuary every evening in front of the resort for decades, has now been scattered by the attentions of a family of cape clawless otter that have a lair in the thicket adjacent to the hotel.

Geoff Thomassen

Conrad Winterbach

WILDSIDE 2of4 2010

There are both sea facing and garden facing chalets, all are comfortable, neat and more than adequate while the views onto the estuary and ocean are simply spectacular.

Electric rays and crab hunting As tranquil as Wavecrest is, and it seems to be geared for a more mature age group, our party included two teenage boys who had an adventure. If they were not wakeboarding on the estuary in front of the hotel or at the beach, then they were in the canoes fishing. They kept appearing with contraptions which the enthusiastic kitchen staff kept supplying them. These ranged from the ‘mud prawn catcher pump’, to the net and bait bag for crabs. I was content just watching the ghost crabs scuttling through the effervescence of an ebbing tide. There was adrenalin rush too for these teenage adventure seekers. Each time they waded across the estuary, the anticipation of standing on an electric ray made them tremble. They did stand on one or two, but the electric discharge wasn’t too bad, enough though to make them leap and yelp. They could’ve taken the canoe but they seemed to be having fun chancing it. The boys caught three huge crabs and the chef made a killer curry. The food is good old fashioned hearty fare. After a long day in the sun at sea, a great meal, the comfortable chalets were perfect. The accommodation has recently been refurbished and the thatched chalets are clean, comfortable and adequate.

New owner

WILDSIDE FACT TRACKER WAVECREST

What started out as a hostel catering for fishermen 90 years ago has evolved and the fortunes of Wavecrest have been through several changes. In the early nineties it was run down and became almost derelict. The Winterbach family took it and cared for it, little did they know that caring for it would take on such epic proportions.

Where: South of Port St Johns, north of Haga Haga, 160km north of East London. How to get there: Fly to East London and ask resort to arrange a transfer – takes two and a half hours from the airport. The drive from KZN is in the region of 8 hours. Cost: From R570 pppns incl. all meals. U12 less 25%. Ask for Wildside Pensioner Special.

The first battle was getting rid of the customers. “The backbone of the previous clientele was the rough-neck fisherman, whose freezer in the back of the bakkie was full of beer on arrival and full of fish fillets on departure. Only those anglers whose love for the sport goes beyond the value of the booty and who abide by the strict local regulations are welcome at Wavecrest,” says Conrad.

Accommodation: 13 thatched chalets, sea facing and garden facing, with en-suite bathrooms with corner baths and showers. Tea and coffee facilities. Clean and comfortable. Facilities: Squash court, tennis court, pool, health Spa, canoes. Activities: Fishing, birding, hiking, sea trips, river cruises, horse-riding, dolphin viewing. Tel: 047 498 0022 Email:wavecrest@pixie.co.za

The resort’s market changed, and those who appreciated the natural beauty have remained clients for years. Wavecrest is entering a new chapter and although Conrad has been in partnership with community members for some time, he has recently sold his total shareholding to Gloria Serobe a high-profile business women from the community. So even though Conrad is no longer an owner, you may still see him chasing off the quad bikers, as he remains as a permanent resident and advisor to the management team.

Viedgesville Qunu

Elliotdale

the haven

Butterworth

dwesa nature reserve

Willowvale r409

great kei river bridge

Komga

kob inn mazeppa baY hotel

Kentani waveCrest hotel trennerY’s hotel seagulls kei mouth morgan’s baY hotel haga-haga

Cape henderson nature reserve

WILDSIDE 2of4 2010

Coffee baY hole in the wall

Idutywa

kwelera nature reserve

UMTATA

EAST LONDON

oH tel Self Catering Cabanas & Conference Centre Seafacing,

DBB Accommodation with Self Catering facilities. Conference Centre all in a tranquil setting. Affordable Rates and old fashioned hospitality. Only metres from the sea.

047 498 0022 / Cell: 083 306 3043 047 498 0042 /

WILDSIDE

MAP OF THE WILD COAST

r61

Port Edward wild Coast sun

s Flag

taff mkambati nature reserve mkambati msikaba south sand bluff

r61

Lusik

isiki

mbotYi

Port St Johns

A TAT UM vil ges

Vied u Q un

hluleka nature reserve

le Coffee baY

Ellio

hole in the wall

tdale

o c e a n

umngazi river bungalows & sPa

Idu

ty w

w Willo But

or th te r w

vale kob inn mazePPa baY hotel

r40

ei at k ge gre er brid riv

g Kom

i n d i a n

the haven dwesa nature reserve

Ken

tani

waveCrest hotel trennerYâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hotel seagulls kei mouth morganâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s baY hotel haga-haga

CaPe henderson nature reserve kwelera nature reserve

EAST LONDON

Eastern Cape Favourites

The Eastern Cape has an indescribable beauty of its own, wild and natural, with a variety of all time favourite places to stay. Insert photo: Just an hour and a bit drive from Umngazi River Bungalows and Spa, the gully at Thanda is an ideal fishing spot for the long casters and of course the perfect place to break away from any crowds (However, It is advisable to go with a local fishing guide from Umngazi River Bungalows.)

UMNGAZI RIVER BUNGALOWS AND SPA PORT ST JOHNS TURN OFF

Nestled in the idyllic setting of the Wild Coast’s rocky coastline and indigenous forests, Umngazi River Bungalows and Spa is the perfect getaway for families needing to escape. Umngazi’s individually and tastefully furnished thatchroofed bungalows enjoy a panoramic view of the unspoiled beauty of the Wild Coast, while a host of activities especially designed for young and old alike make this an ideal destination both out of season for families with pre-school children as well as in season for those with older children.

Unwind beside the private pool or on the secluded beach, or enjoy picnics and walks in the indigenous forests, while children enjoy a full programme. There is fishing, canoeing, tennis, horse-riding, dune boarding and organised games. For the little ones there is a creative corner with secure play area and an adventure jungle gym. For the tweenies and teens there is a “pad” to hang out and chill with mates, play foosball and watch TV. Trained nannies are available to look after children from newborns up and should parents want to rekindle the romantic moments of yesteryear whether it be a walk on the beach, or a candlelit dinner.

The main dining room provides a relaxed atmosphere with a delicious menu and a special children’s menu offering trusted 50

WILDSIDE 2of4 2010

favourites as well as healthier options. The resort offers a children’s dining room so parents don’t need to worry about upsetting their children’s routines while they’re on holiday. The dedicated and experienced therapists at Umngazi’s Spa provide skin and body therapies using imported and locally made body products to ensure guests leave feeling relaxed, pampered and rejuvenated. Treatments include a range of massages as well as special treatments for mothersto-be, men, and fun treatments for children. Tel: 047 564 1115/6/8/9 Email: stay@umngazi.co.za www.umngazi.co.za

suspension bridge, which joins the island to the main beach. The 3 star Mazeppa Bay Hotel is AA Highly Recommended, with a choice of family or double rooms, and two honeymoon suites. Home cooked meals and seafood dinners are scrumptious. The hotel boasts a tennis court, fullsize snooker table, beach volley ball, table tennis, a trampoline for the children, DSTV in the communal TV lounge and two bars. Mazeppa Bay has a 550 m landing strip for light air craft and a helipad, and transfers to and from East London airport, a two and half hour drive away, are available.

MAZEPPA BAY HOTEL BUTTERWORTH TURN OFF

Tucked in a beautiful setting of palms above the broad beach Mazeppa Bay is characterised by its own island. Depending on the tide, this is sometimes only accessible by a quaint

Angling is a key activity, and Mazeppa has its own registered boat launch off the beach. Tackle and bait are for sale at the hotel, and there are also rods and reels for hire. Tel: 047 498 0033 Email: actons@polka.co.za www.mazeppabay.co.za

HAGA HAGA

MORGAN BAY

HAGA HAGA (SOUTH OF KEI RIVER)

MORGAN'S BAY

Haga Haga offers accommodation on a dbb basis, self-catering cabanas and relaxed conferencing. Lunch and evening pub meals for visitors are available as well as the renowned seafood evening. Situated on the water’s edge 45min north of East London this is a wonderful place for families and the village of Haga Haga offers tranquillity and simplicity. Whether fishing, surfing, hiking, shell collecting or enjoying the abundance of sea life in the many rock pools and craggy gullies you are sure to enjoy a memorable stay at Haga Haga. Tel: 043 841 1670 Email: haga@intekom.co.za

Just an hour’s drive from East London along the Wild Coast in South Africa, is a special place which somehow allows those who go there to exchange the cares of the world for the more important things in life. This coastal village lies nestled between majestic cliffs and a mile-long stretch of unspoilt beach. It is flanked by a stunning lagoon which carves open a sandy mouth to the raw beauty of the Indian Ocean. This is South Africa’s magnificent Wild Coast at its best. Yet in spite of its incredible natural beauty, it is the simple memories of good times had there that people often recall when they speak affectionately of ‘Morgs’.

Morgan Bay is essentially a place of lifetimes of fond memories – plenty of old ones, and many new ones still to come. It is a place of friends and family – where both children’s laughter and the cry of the Fish Eagle are second nature – a sort of safe haven of halcyon days spent splashing in the sun – and good times shared with loved ones. Tel: 043 8411062 /0834558022 Email: info@morganbayhotel.co.za

The Lodge offers comfort, style, friendly service and hearty home style cuisine. Mbotyi River Lodge also offers a range of hiking trails along beautiful beaches, up on the grassy escarpment overlooking the sea and through indigenous forest.

MBOTYI RIVER LODGE LUSIKISIKI TURN OFF

There is no better way of escaping the World Cup than spending an unforgettable few days on the Wild Coast. Situated 26 km from Lusikisiki in the wild erness area at the mouth of the Mbotyi River is Mbotyi River Lodge. Mbotyi River Lodge is in a perfect position for those looking for a tranquil holiday or for the adventurer wanting to experience and explore the many beautiful wild treasures this coast has to offer.

Mbotyi comes to life in June/ July when divers and wildlife enthusiasts from all over the world descend to be part of the Sardine Run. Sardine Run Special WILD Reader Mbotyi River Lodge is offer offering a package to lodge guests who wish to participate in this exciting event and view this incredible phenomenon from the ocean. To experience this once in a life-time opportunity, contact us at mbotyi@pondoland.co.za or telephone 039 253 7200.

WILDSIDE 2of4 2010

BATTLE FIELDS – KZN Ladysmith Nambiti, situated 25 km east from Ladysmith, is the only Big-5 reserve in this central area of KwaZulu-Natal. Rich in biodiversity, ecospheres vary from central savannahs, to open grasslands in the northwest and tall, dense acacia thornveld in the south.

It’s a relatively new reserve, having been successfully developed from an extensive community land claim. Besides the Big-5, the reserve boasts over 30 mammal species and excellent birding, including being the breeding ground for blue crane, long crested eagle and bald ibis. On its recent visit Wildside had excellent sightings of a variety of vultures and cheetah with cubs. There is spectacular scenery, including a waterfall on the Sundays River that drops 40 metres. This malaria-free reserve has nine luxurious safari lodges and one tented camp. The beauty of the reserve is that it offers guests a choice in accommodation options. As each lodge in this 20 000 acre reserve is privately owned; each has its own character and expression. Wildside visited two of the lodges in diverse locations – Esiweni, perched high on a cliff with spectacular panoramic views and Nambiti Plains, with its up close contact with grassland wildlife. The Sundays River waterfall and gorge with Esiweni Lodge in the far distance spectacularly positioned on the edge of a sandstone cliff.

WILDSIDE 2of4 2010

NAMBITI PRIVATE GAME RESERVE

Lisa Köhler and Rod Macleod visit two of the nine luxurious safari lodges found at Nambiti Private Game Reserve.

ESIWENI LODGE

Soaring with Swallows

ESIWENI LODGE It’s an unusual sight to look down onto the backs of swallows as they flit fluidly to and from a cliff face. But then again, Esiweni Lodge does mean ‘on the cliffs’. With its lofty position and decks hovering on the very edge of a precipice, Esiweni boasts spectacular views. It’s an impressive location for a lodge. To the right is a 40 metre high waterfall. To the left, steep hills become a muted haze in the distance. And far below, the Sundays River writhes between abrupt slopes of a gorge in Nambiti Private Game Reserve, central KwaZulu-Natal.

WILDSIDE 2of4 2010

It’s an unusual sight to look down onto the backs of swallows as they flit fluidly to and from a cliff face. But then again, Esiweni Lodge does mean ‘on the cliffs’.

WILDSIDE 2of4 2010

This ‘Sundays River’ (not the one we generally think of in the Eastern Cape) is better served by its Zulu name ‘Indaka uMfula’ meaning ‘Muddy River’. The water is a strange yellow colour. Cloudy with clay sediment, the river carves its way turbently through the gorge, providing the background soundtrack for guests relaxing on Esiweni’s decks or taking a dip in the lodge’s rim-flow pool. With the soothing sound of water and the warmth of the sun, guests are quickly lulled into a soporific state. Forget those city schedules, cell phones and television. (There is no reception anyway.) This is a place to relax. The lodge has a wonderful calming effect. Magda and Natie Le Roux, the lodge’s hosts concur. “This is a nice quiet hideaway, especially as a couple’s retreat,” says Magda. “Yes, it’s a place of absolute tranquility. You can come and rest here,” agrees Natie. Esiweni Lodge is one of the most recent additions to accommodation options at Nambiti. Only officially opened in May 2009, the lodge can host ten people in five spacious suites, including a honeymoon suite and two

that are interconnected for use as a family unit. Hugging the cliff edge, all have advantage of the spectacular views from private decks. Besides the showers and luxurious freestanding baths inside, suites also have outdoor showers. There is nothing like showering under southern stars. If the night is nippy, guests can pad around suites barefoot, enjoying the comfort of under-floor heating or make their way to the main lodge and enjoy the warmth of the roaring fires. The main lodge is elegant and spacious with double volume ceilings; doors that fold back to the extensive deck or a sheltered courtyard; and open plan flow between bar, lounge and dining area. Rugged rock clad fireplaces contrast with smooth screed floors. Décor has colonial safari touches and a powerful telescope is on hand to get a closer view of that large raptor nesting on the cliff face. Hours can pass by exploring wildlife concealed amongst the unique cabbage trees and ravine vegetation of the gorge.

Magda and Natie are the backbone of the team looking after guests’ needs at the lodge. Magda is responsible for the delicious ‘soul food’. The lodge’s wide selection of South African wines is housed in its wine cellar, the ideal venue for guests wanting a private dinner. Natie takes guests for the twice-daily game drives on offer. Besides his extensive knowledge of the bushveld, Natie is a keen game photographer for those wishing to swop notes. Besides its attraction as a Big-5 reserve, Nambiti Reserve is also in close proximity to the historic Anglo-Zulu and Anglo-Boer battlefields. (Elandslaagte battlefield and memorial is located on the edge of the Reserve.) For guests on longer stays, the lodge can arrange tours with external guides. Also an optional extra are Spa treatments with outside therapists. However, the peace and tranquility of Esiweni is a tonic for the soul in itself. This small and intimate lodge at once enchants its guests with its spectacular scenery and warm hospitality, ensuring you feel relaxed and at home in no time at all.

WILDSIDE 2of4 2010

NAMBITI PLAINS PRIVATE GAME LODGE

WILDSIDE 2of4 2010

The Plains’ Personal Touch It’s a warm African welcome as you enter the lodge. The smiling faces of the staff as they sing their greeting sets the tone for guests’ stay at Nambiti Plains. This 5-star lodge is marked by its friendly service that’s attentive to every detail.

Gemsbok Oryx gazella

While the lodge feels expansive and is lavish in its spaciousness, surprisingly Nambiti Plains only sleeps ten. Luxurious thatch and stone suites are strung like gems on walkways sensitively woven through indigenous forest. However, it’s the facing views that give the lodge not only its name but also a continental African touch. You could be looking onto the savannah plains of central Africa. This feeling is especially sensed from the main lodge’s deck. A mammoth wild common fig tree (Ficus thonningii) stands regally at the edge of an expansive deck. A level below is a circular pool with clear views of a watering hole. Fringing yellow grass parts and a majestic kudu gingerly steps forward. A hyper warthog leads her youngsters hurriedly forward. You could be watching game drink in the Serengeti, not 25 km east of Ladysmith. The recently appointed lodge manager underlines that international flavour. Obert Lusinga, master of a dozen languages and with vast lodge management experience in Africa says, “Guests must feel at home, even though they are totally immersed in the bush.” While luxury meets Africa’s wilds, from its inception the lodge has been sensitive to the area’s ecology. Its architectural footprint was built around the trees in the indigenous forest. Hanging fittings focus light downward so the brilliance of night skies is not dimmed and game is not disturbed.

WILDSIDE 2of4 2010

WILDSIDE FACT TRACKER NAMBITI PRIVATE GAME RESERVE Where: 3.5 hrs from Jhb and 2.5 hrs from Dbn. Drive straight through Ladysmith on the N11 Road towards Newcastle from the last robots leaving Ladysmith travel for ± 7kms. Follow the N11 through Ladysmith and continue on this road. For Nambiti Plains take South Gate entrance. For Esiweni, ignore the signs that say Nambiti as these will lead you to the South Gate. Wait until you see the sign that says Elandslaagte and turn right. You will then be on the Glencoe Dundee R602. Travel for 2.3kms. Turn right Elandslaagte P555 (dirt road) Cross railway line - follow Elandslaagte sign for 200m Turn left following Elandslaagte sign. Drive 3.8km to Nambiti North Gate. Important to note: There is no selfdrive in the reserve. Lodges’ vehicles collect guests from secure parking just within gate entrances.

Open deck living off the bedroom suite with the adjoining ensuite bathroom.

ESIWENI LODGE Accommodation: 5 luxury suites including a family suite and a honeymoon suite.

cozy dinner on a chilly winter’s evening. Leading off the expansive deck overlooking the pool and waterhole is a separate bar area and open boma.

Obert further explains that is why there is no electric fencing. “We walk our guests to and from their suites at night because elephants drink from the pool. They love the mineral salts. Besides, buffalo graze between the rooms.” Nambiti Plains is an intimate experience with Africa’s bushveld. The modern décor enhances the African experience. The neutral palette is contrasted by the textures of rough loosepacked stonewalls, raw wood and strong geometric designs. The spaciousness of a suite is more ‘house’ than ‘room’. Each suite has under-floor heating and is completely secluded with 180-degree views from the bath, outdoors ‘bush shower’ and private wrap around deck. For those that can tear themselves away from indulging in the luxury of their suite, the main lodge offers guests a reading corner, comfortable lounge with stone fireplace and a separate dining room with two stone fireplaces, perfect to enjoy a

Important to note: Lodge is on the edge of cliff and has unfenced pool so does not accept children under 10. Cost: includes all meals and game drives (2 per day). Single rate is R2400 pppn; 2 guests are R1600 pppns.

When asked what he thinks makes the Nambiti Plains’ experience special, Obert immediately responds, “The staff. We want our guests to have an authentic African lodge experience,” says Obert. Obert first points out the excellent cuisine Nambiti Plains offer guests and that vegetarian, vegan, kosher or halaal guests are fully catered.

Contact: Phone: 036 636 9002/3 Fax: 086 546 4045 Email: reservations@ esiweni.co.za

NAMBITI PLAINS PRIVATE GAME LODGE Accommodation: 5 luxury suites including a family suite - two separate suites accessed by a common entrance. Important to note: Should you want to book a family experience at the lodge, the full lodge will need to be reserved. Children u12 yrs R1325 pppn, 12 yrs and above R2650 pppn. No triple rooms.

Obert goes on to describe how cultural heritage can enrich guest’s understanding. Giving examples Obert explains that the boma is not only a place for a delicious braai under the stars but is steeped in tradition as a gathering place. Game drives are an opportunity for guests Harrismith to N5 gain insight into the traditional medicinal uses of plants and wildlife antics can be Phuthatijaba interpreted through African culture by the guide. STERKFONTEIN DAM NATURE

Cost: R2650 pppns. Single rate is R3445. Includes all meals, one house wine, teas and coffees, game drives (2 per day) with snacks and beverages FREESTATE (sundowner drink per person per drive, excl. estate/sparkling wine), and light N3 laundry. Refer to website for specials. Optional extras are battlefield tours and Drakensberg activities.

R74

RESERVE

Obert concludes by saying that Nambiti sentinel car park and mont aux sources via chain Plains is special because, “It is a place ladder little switzerland where you witsieshoek can drop everything from city sungabala montusi cavern all out adventures life, and just thesit still, meditate and relax.” hlalanathi RUGGED 23 GLEN I take his advice. Drink in hand, I find a 1 thendele resort & camping and THENDELE comfortable seat oncaravan thepark deck and soak up the tranquil sounds of Nambiti’s plains in the African sun.

WILDSIDE 2of4 2010

PRIVATE GAME RESERVE

Bergville R74

Colenso

Winterton R74

CATHEDRAL PEAK

R103

EXIT 220

R600

Cathedral Peak 3004m

zintulo umzololozo NAMBITI

N11

SPIOENKOP NATURE RESERVE three tree hill lodge

esiweni nambiti plains

EXIT 230 R616

mnweni cultural centre

R602

Ladysmith

R74

Beacon Buttress 3121m Sentinel Peak 3165m Mont-Aux-Sources 3282m

R103

caley lodge

R74

Wee EXIT 194

Frere

R103

WEENEN NATURE RESERVE

Wi t h a v ie w like t his, you cou ld say w e have t he big si x. Esiweni Lodge is situated in the malaria-free, Big 5, Nambiti Private Game Reserve

We have 5 luxurious, individual suites where no detail has been overlooked. Each suite

near Ladysmith. With our unmatched cliff-top views over the Sundays River, we like

exudes an air of tranquillity and has a private deck, underfloor heating, magnificent

to think of ourselves as a Big Six Reserve! After a memorable game drive, there is

views from the bath and outdoor shower. Two of the suites are interconnected for use

no better way to relax than with a fine South African wine around our rim-flow pool

as a family unit.

overlooking the spectacular scenery. We also offer refined dining or a fantastic outdoor

Contact Esiweni Lodge today to find out about our introductory offer and youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll soon

boma experience. Alternatively, you can enjoy a private dinner in our wine cellar.

discover why we call this Big Six country.

Telephone: +27(0)36 636 9002/3 email: information@esiweni.co.za Web: www.esiweni.co.za

BATTLE FIELDS – DUNDEE – KZN

INGUDLANE LODGE Lisa Köhler stayed over at Ingudlane Lodge near Dundee and found that besides the children friendly game reserve that it was a perfect springboard to the surrounding battlefields.

Ingudlane translates from Zulu as ‘a little shelf for precious items’. It’s an appropriate name for Ingudlane Lodge. This little gem just outside Dundee in northern KwaZulu-Natal, consists of a main lodge on the crest of a hill overlooking self-catering chalets situated in a private game reserve in the valley below. While the main lodge with restaurant, a lounge and bar is open to the public for meals, and is an ideal wedding or conference venue, the chalets are private and secluded havens for a bushveld getaway. A play area in the grounds of the main lodge gives hint that this lodge is child friendly. It was with this in mind that the owners, the Klusner family, have made choices when introducing new game to the reserve. An example would be hippo. While there are numerous watering holes

WILDSIDE 2of4 2010

on the reserve, the Klusners consciously decided that guests should rather feel free to walk in the reserve. The established footpaths can be enjoyed with a guide or unguided and are particularly suitable for parents introducing children to a game experience.

of leather, wood and wrought iron. The chalets have two bedrooms with en suite bathrooms, an open plan living area leading onto the verandah and plunge pool surrounded by lawns. A Weber is on hand for those preferring to braai than cook in the well-equipped kitchen.

The 1650 ha reserve, combined from three farms five years ago, boasts an abundance of birdlife and good viewing of giraffe, zebra and numerous buck species. Varied in its terrain from open plains to dense indigenous bush, the reserve’s numerous hills present sweeping views of the surrounding region from crests. For visitors not inclined towards energetic walks, the lodge offers game drives in an open vehicle with a qualified guide. The reserve has well made tar, concrete and dirtroads; the owners have a civil engineering background. Guests can also breakfast in the bush or enjoy the setting sun with drinks and snacks.

Chalets have flat screen televisions so parents needn’t stress about entertaining children in the evening or missing that important match. For those wanting a hassle-free breakfast, (the restaurant isn’t open until lunch) the main lodge provides a filling breakfast basket as an optional extra. There is more than enough to take along for snacks later if you venture out to explore the surrounding area.

The deck of the main lodge, with its panoramic views of the hilly terrain, is perfect for sundowners. The restaurant offers a comprehensive a la carte menu. Wildside found the beef, which is sourced locally, particularly good and the fresh salads generous. Sunday buffet is particularly popular with folk from Dundee so booking is essential, including for guests staying in the self-catering chalets. Chalets are immaculate. Décor is a blend of slate and comfortable furnishings in safari lodge style with abundance

Ingudlane Lodge is in the heart of the battlefields region. Attractions include the Battle of Blood River Heritage Site, Isandlwana Battlefield and the Rorke’s Drift Museum. The lodge can arrange tours with outside operators on request. Talana Hill of Anglo-Boer War fame and its accompanying museum are just minutes down the road. The museum deserves a couple hours to explore thoroughly. One of the many exhibits covers the extensive coal mining history of the area. Today, Dundee’s precious resources are no longer found deep beneath the earth but are now above. Ingudlane Lodge – a tranquil bushveld escape and the ideal springboard to explore the rich cultural history of the region.

WILDSIDE FACT TRACKER INGUDLANE LODGE Where: Ingudlane Lodge is a private game reserve situated in northern KwaZulu-Natal, in the heart of the battlefields. The reserve is 5km’s from Dundee alongside the R33 to Vryheid. Important to note: Lodge is childfriendly. There is no self-drive in the reserve, however guests can walk trails. Accommodation: Self-catering chalets have two bedrooms, both with en suites, open plan living area and patio. Cost: Bed only (self-catering) R650 pppn; Bed & Breakfast Basket R750 pppn; Children 0–3 yrs complimentary; Children 4–12 yrs 50% adult rate; Game Drive – adult R120, children R70. Contact: Phone: 082 879 7734 Fax: 086 565 4811 Email: bookings@ingudlane.co.za www.ingudlane.co.za

PAKAMISA PRIVATE          GAME RESERVE

Pakamisa Private Game Reserve, with its panoramic mountain views overlooking the Pongola river valley, awaits to rejuvenate your soul. Come and pamper yourself with luxurious accommodation, savour superb cuisine, and relish fine wines. Catch the excitement of a horseback safari amongst the game or test your skills with a number of outdoor adventure sports. 8   LUXURY  SUITES  • HORSEBACK SAFARIS  • GAME DRIVES     BUSH WALKS • ARCHERY  •  CLAY TARGET SHOOTING

Tel: 034 - 413 3559 Fax: 034 - 413 1817 Cell: 083 229 2116 Email: res@pakamisa.co.za www.pakamisa.co.za

Wi l d l a n d s Co n s e r v a t i o n Tr u s t PROTECTING THE

INKOSI YEENTAKA OF THE

(King of the Birds)

DRAKENSBERG

The Wildlands Conservation Trust supports formal conservation agencies through their Biodiversity Management Support Programme (BMSP). From July 2007 to March 2010 a range of Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife projects received funding from Wildlands through their Conservation Capital Fund (CCF) as well as from the Bonitas Wild Series, a set of multisport challenges held across KwaZulu-Natal. Many of these projects seek to protect rare and endangered species and habitats, some of which are vulnerable to environmental crime such as poaching. The Maluti-Drakensberg Vulture Project is working to prevent the decline of cliff nesting vultures in the Maluti- Drakensberg mountains and surrounds where they are under major threat, largely due to poisoning and collision (and electrocution in the case of capes) with power lines. The Bearded Vulture (Gypaetus barbatus) is endangered in southern Africa, there are only 50-100 breeding pairs left, and the Cape Vulture (Gyps coprotheres) is vulnerable and is endemic to southern Africa. Sonja KrĂźger, Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife ecologist for the uKhahlamba Drakensberg Park World Heritage Site, who has run the Vulture Project since 2000, has been monitoring the movements and nesting sites of these two species in the mountainous regions of the Drakensberg and Lesotho in order to determine their movement patterns and to identify possible threats to them.

Bearded Vulture (Gypaetus barbatus) ÂŠ Chris Van Rooyen

Initially monitoring work was achieved through catching and tagging birds in order to identify them when they were sighted at feeding sites or in the air, and then in August 2007 the ability to more accurately track the movements of the birds became possible through the purchase and fitting of satellite transmitters. Devices were

Wildlands Conservation Trusts' vision is to be a centre of excellence for the restoration and conservation of natural

Spor t for the

Co n s e r v a t i o n o f o u r Wi l d H e r i t a g e

fitted on three Bearded Vultures in the Underberg in 2007, and in 2008 a further two were fitted to Bearded Vulture chicks in Lesotho. In June 2009 one of the chicks was found dead in the Eastern Cape, and forensic tests confirmed poisoning. This can happen accidentally as livestock that are medicated and then die can be poisonous to vultures, or farmers may be trying to kill predators and Bearded Vultures are killed accidentally by eating the bait meant for predators like jackal. Vultures perform a vital function in getting rid of dead livestock, but some carcasses are lethal and it is a huge challenge for the Vulture Project to communicate this. Vultures can also be poisoned by lead from a bullet present in a carcass. Through workshops and distribution of media the project attempts to educate on the dangers of poisons to vultures.

the deadly agricultural chemical Aldicarb amongst other poisons (known by the brand name Temik) in order to use their body parts for muthi (traditional medicine), as it is believed that they possess clairvoyant powers. Steve McKean, Resource Ecologolist for the uKhahlamba Drakensberg region, explains that the use of vulture parts for muti is a serious health risk to the human population. "As little as two grams of Temik can kill an adult human. In whatever form the vulture parts are being used by traditional medicine practitioners, they need to be made aware that they are not only killing red data species but may be poisoning their clients if the muthi is ingested."

Krüger said that there was concern about an increase in vulture poaching during the 2010 Soccer World Cup as vulture parts were used for predictions in gambling. There were plans in place to increase feeding of vultures In August 2009 Sonja Krüger within the protected areas to and her team were able to fit encourage them to remain where further satellite transmitters to they would perhaps be less vulfive Bearded Vultures and one nerable to poaching. The proviCape Vulture in the Underberg sion of food at vulture feeding Sonja Krüger Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife ecologist for the region. In March 2010 all six birds sites is an attempt to provide a uKhahlamba Drakensberg Park World Heritage Site. “We have were active and data was indicatconstant safe food source to birds come a long way and raised awareness hugely. Vultures are now ing that one bird was moving within their range. Many farmers further afield than others. “One are becoming involved in vulture on the agenda. Poison intervention and interactions with power of the male Bearded Vultures is conservation by disposing of carlines remain the biggest threats to the birds and we need to a year older and he is moving in casses safely on their properties keep the pressure on to help prevent the further decline in the an area of 44 thousand square and creating vulture “restaurants”. numbers of both the Bearded and the Cape Vulture.” kms, more than twice that of the Safe, known sources of foods for younger birds, moving between the vultures are being created to Lesotho, KwaZulu-Natal and the Eastern Cape,” names for the vultures that were fitted with satminimise the risks to the birds both in protected Krüger said. Over time they will gather data from ellite transmitters during 2009. Winning names areas and on privately owned land. these transmitters that will indicate the patterns such as Umcocimathafa, which means “cleans in their movements and this understanding up the environment”, Inkosi Yeentaka which Said Krüger of the progress made possible in helps Sonja’s team focus on the areas the birds means “king of birds” and Umadlizidumbu, the last three years: “We have come a long way frequent most and the project can actively which means “eats carcasses” is a clear indication and raised awareness hugely. Vultures are now make the areas safer and also provide safe food that the children are learning about vultures and on the agenda. Poison intervention and intersources. what they are about. actions with power lines remain the biggest threats to the birds and we need to keep the A competition was run towards the end of 2009 The poisoning of vultures is happening accidenpressure on to help prevent the further decline in schools near the uKhahlamba Drakensberg tally but it also occurs through environmental in the numbers of both the Bearded and the Park to “Name the Vultures”, which aimed to find crime. Poachers are poisoning vultures with Cape Vulture.”

ecosystems through the development of innovative socio-economic partnerships.

www.wildlands.co.za

adgets

Tabard A world class mosquito and insect repellent. Tabard remains the best known brand in its category in Africa. Tabard is not only used to keep mosquitoes at bay, but works effectively against most other insects. www.acorngroup.co.za

GEAR GADGETS & GIZMOS

WGild

A trip without your favourite gadget or essential outdoor tool is unthinkable. Here are some new indispensable items to make your journey more pleasurable.

Maloti Mountain Moccasins Sheepskin lined moccasins. Maloti mountain moccasins are for indoor/outdoor wear. Comfortable sheep-skined lined leather upper and rubber sole. Handcrafted in South Africa. Unisex fittings, various colours available. Size 2-15. R350 including postage email: chengc@eject.co.za cell: 083 650 1783

Lenzz-Rezzt Bean Bag Useful tool for outdoor photographers

HI TEC V-lite Altitude Ultra WPi A extremely lightweight boot that offers all the ankle support needed for trails. The ion-mask water-repellent technology assists making the boot 100% waterproof, so your feet will stay dry. The leather upper provides insulation in colder months of winter, and ensures breathing on a warmer afternoon.

The well-designed double pocket beanbag improves the stability and reduces vibration and movement of long lenses. Photographers will find this function especially useful when taking photos from inside a vehicle. No more blurry photos caused by “camera shake!” R280 www.cameraprops.co.za

R1399 (mens) and R1299 (ladies) www.hi-tec.com

Awesome Tools – Fenix® Offers you big light performance in a compact EDC (Every Day Carry) Format This Fenix PD20 Torch features 4 Output options, Strobe & SOS modes. Delivering from 10 to 180 lumens – amazing brightness from an 8cm long torch with a single 3V CR123 Lithium battery. The torch comes complete with 1 X 3V CR123 Lithium battery, pocket clip, belt pouch, spare O-rings and switch cover. It has a 2 year guarantee. suggested retail R699.00

WILDSIDE 2of4 2010

www.awesometools.co.za

Corporate Social Responsibility Corporate companies drive change and improve lives. In this annual corporate social responsibility feature, Wildside pays tribute to these companies that are making a difference through considered projects that are sustainable with direct benefits.

NPC CIMPOR

Bhobhoyi Women Launch a Dream

A group of previously disadvantaged women from the Bhobhoyi district, supported by NPC-CIMPOR, have embarked on a journey and are realising their dream of starting a cooperative. The Bhobhoyi Organic Agricultural Project, which falls under the Social and Labour Plan, began early in March 2009. With full financial assistance from NPC-CIMPOR and The Organic Farms Group as project managers, 45 women received intensive training, both practical and theoretical, over a two-month period before they began working on the land. Eight hectares of land was sponsored by the KwaNdwalane Tribal Authority, 4 hectares of which was cultivated using organic farming methods. In addition to the sophisticated, state-of-the-art equipment purchased by NPC-CIMPOR for the beneficiaries, a shelter and a nursery, for private subsistence, were built. The aim is that the project be funded for three years until it achieves long-term self-sustainability.

C O R P O R A T E

S O C I A L

R E S P O N S I B I L I T Y

A full-time mentor from the Organic Farms Group is also assisting the women. Despite the fact that 20 group members had left the initiative by late 2009, the remaining 25 have continued their work with great commitment and enthusiasm â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and with positive results. Current crops include spinach, brinjals, cabbage and green beans and the project has managed to identify and supply clients in the Ugu District, including Spar supermarkets and the Ugu Fresh Produce Market. The greatest challenge has been the bad weather in December which made it difficult to produce enough to satisfy its customers. Focus in 2010 will be on consolidating the Bhobhoyi Organic Agricultural Projectâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s market position and keeping up with market demand. The Hibiscus Municipality has given valuable assistance by providing relevant support and market identification.

F E A T U R E

WILDSIDE 2of4 2010

Mitsubishi Triton drives the Kids Recently the Skukuza Stadium in the Kruger National Park was packed with school-going children, their teachers, parents and friends, for a day of entertainment, interspersed with speeches and presentations of various reports and activities from the ‘My Acre of Africa Trust’. These reports gave an overview of the activities, experiences and successes to-date of the Trust, including the Kids in Kruger Programme. Nothing could dampen the children’s enthusiasm as they patiently waited for their turn to perform their various activities. The teachers and proud parents looked on as each representing school from outlying areas of the Kruger National Park, performed to the guests’ delight. In pride of place next to the stage, were two Mitsubishi Triton 4x4 bakkies with colourful ‘Kids in Kruger’ decals, making them easily identifiable. The event provided an ideal opportunity for the official hand-over of the vehicles to the Kids in Kruger Programme. “These vehicles will provide courtesy transportation to the Kids in Kruger Programme for an initial one year period,” said Annette Erasmus, Sales Manager, Mitsubishi Motors. “We are pleased that the programme has proven to be such a success in the communities they serve, and that this courtesy transportation will further assist in the sustainability of the project,” added Erasmus. Amongst the VIP guests of community and traditional leaders, was Honourable Member of Parliament Sheila Sithole, who is also Member of Portfolio Committee in Parliament on the Environment. Honourable Sithole was escorted to take the stage by a procession of drum majorettes with all the pomp and splendour of royalty. Pleased with the day’s activities, Honourable Sithole told the children to keep up the good work she witnessed firsthand. The keynote address was given by the Chairperson of the My Acre of Africa Trust, Mr. M Ramano. Emphasising the importance of each individual’s role in saving the environment and acting responsibly, Mr Ramano warned of the consequences of not taking global warming seriously. The schools and communities adjacent to the Kruger National park are the beneficiaries of the Kids in Kruger Project, which has seen more than 25 800 children and teach-

WILDSIDE 2of4 2010

ers participate in its successful programmes. The project has been carefully structured to ensure that the maximum number of economic opportunities is provided to entrepreneurs from these local communities. This was evident at the event, as one could see that the beautiful dance costumes were all locally made and worn with pride. The Kids in Kruger Project Steering Committee members were all present, witnessing the fruits of their hard work. Members of the committee include municipal councillors, teachers, businessmen, farmers, traditional and youth leaders,

C O R P O R A T E

S O C I A L

R E S P O N S I B I L I T Y

F E A T U R E

in Kruger Programme

and members of the public from the respective communities, give of their time to ensure that the projects are implemented. The Kids in Kruger Programme’s core activities focus on environmental education. They are aimed at primarily giving children living in disadvantaged communities adjacent to Kruger National Park an opportunity to enjoy, appreciate and help preserve their natural heritage. Road shows are held annually with a purpose to update community stakeholders about the various programmes implemented and this ’Open Day’ formed part of these road shows. Continuous participation with the local communities is crucial to the success of

C O R P O R A T E

S O C I A L

R E S P O N S I B I L I T Y

F E A T U R E

WILDSIDE 2of4 2010

Mitsubishi Triton drives the Kids in Kruger Programme the programmes, not just from a broader social development perspective, but also to ensure that the projects are accepted by the local community, who also take ownership.

Park and the preservation of South Africa’s heritage.

Project staff who work for the Kids in Kruger Programme are sourced from the local communities living adjacent to the Kruger National Park.

“The two Mitsubishi Triton vehicles are robust and reliable and will go a long way to assist the teachers in implementing a large number of activities, including greening and environmental activities, which all form part of this successful programme,” added Erasmus.

A number of students who have completed their tertiary education, are trained as Shadow Guides – trained on the environmental interpretation and education – and are employed to educate the students from these schools on how to live in harmony with one’s natural surroundings.

“The designated drivers of the Mitsubishi Triton bakkies will shortly undergo off-road training through the local Mitsubishi dealership in Nelspruit. This specialised training will ensure that the drivers are able to go off-road in a safe and responsible manner,” concluded Erasmus.

This is of critical importance to the ongoing survival of the Kruger National

Local entrepreneurs are engaged to cater for the students’ catering needs,

and most importantly, transportation requirements to attend the various field trips and camps organised by the Kids in Kruger Programme. All guests, including the children benefitted from the day in true community spirit.

For further information on the Mitsubishi Triton Drives the Kids in Kruger Programme: Shirle Greig Tel: 012 677 1904 Fax: 012 677 1682 e-mail: shirle.greig@daimler.com

Wind Bag

by David Muirhead

A Scent of Plaice A while ago I was standing gazing up at the Amphitheatre in the Drakensberg, feeling ant-sized and awe struck. The man beside me sighed with deep feeling and then unexpectedly said he could smell fish. “What an overpowering scent of plaice,” he said. I sniffed the air and surreptitiously checked the front of my shirt for any residual crumbs from my hake and chips lunch. “I can’t smell fish at all,” I said confidently. The serene look vanished from his face. “Who said anything about fish?” he asked. “You did,” I said “you said you could smell plaice.” He looked puzzled for a moment. “A sense of place,” he said with heavy emphasis. Then it dawned on me of course: place as in place, not plaice as in fish. Most South African’s have never heard of plaice. They are bottom dwellers that reluctantly find their way out of the sea and onto British dinner tables, though not in the numbers of yesteryear. The humble plaice is fighting a losing battle against extinction like everything else we eat with chips and tomato sauce. “Aha,” I said, “a sense of place.” “Exactly.” “Exactly,” I repeated. “This place makes sense.”

He looked at me. Signs or irritation were moving across his craggy features like the clouds nibbling the high peaks of the Berg. “It doesn’t have to make sense,” he said. “What’s the point in saying it then?” I asked. He heaved another sigh, not filled with rapture anymore, with annoyance. “Not the phrase, the place,” he said loudly. I left it there. I mean you don’t argue with someone bigger than you, especially when the knuckles on his clenched fists have turned white. In those circumstances the best plan is to look at your watch and hurry away to an urgent appointment. I wonder what it really means though: a sense of place. It sounds like something a politically correct American academic dreamed up at some point in time. It’s not a phrase anyone is ever likely to use in a queue at the offices of the South African Revenue Service, no matter how much SARS might try and spruce up the place, or in a modern football stadium, at least not while there’s a match on. Sensible places apparently prefer to be deserted, or very nearly so, because they abhor noise and excessive movement. Virtually all of them are extremely old. Oddly enough many places that trigger reverential awe and metaphysical wonder nowadays were once very noisy and very busy. The Coliseum in Rome is a good example and Stonehenge, in all probability, may well have been another. Like other ancient human artifacts that tweak our souls, such places owe their modern

mystical credentials to the passage of immense amounts of time, during which they have decayed with grace and dignity. In their heyday they were more often than not scenes of bloody murder and mayhem, but intermittent earthquakes and ten thousand days of rain have long since obliterated the forensic evidence. Even natural places need offbeat architecture to qualify as mystical though; for people to be able to say they experience a special weird feeling just by being there. No one ever experiences a sense of place out on the wide blue yonder precisely because everything looks exactly the same in all directions. A lone yachtsman might be overwhelmed by a sense of abject terror, not to mention regret at having been so daft as to be there in the first place, when he sees sixtyfoot waves rolling menacingly towards him. But there’s no mystery about that, just an awful lot of piled up water. On land though nature is much better than any of our antique forebears at coming up with enchanted places. As if to rub the point home, many of the most remarkable landscapes seem like immensely improved versions of something we humans might have cooked up if we’d only had the time, twenty million years, say, and the geophysical equipment: Giant’s Castle, Cathedral Peak, the Amphitheatre. Maybe giving them names like that is our way of trying to make sense of such places. It helps but it will never be enough, and maybe that’s how it should be. Like the man with the knuckles implied: a place that fills you with awe doesn’t have to make sense; magic never does.

WILDSIDE 2of4 2010

KwaZulu-Natal

Durban / Battlefields / Berg / Midlands / South Coast

Eleven on Avent B E D & B R E A K FA S T

We are situated in the Cowies Hill area of Pinetown and are within walking distance of shops and nearby businesses. A full English Breakfast is served and home cooked evening meals are available by arrangement at a cost of R 80.00 per person. Both of your proprietors, Arlette and Crawford, are passionate about cooking! You will leave with pleasant memories! Our luxurious rooms are furnished with queen sized beds, desk, television, easy chair and bathroom on suite. The suites are independent from the proprietors premises which affords our guests privacy. Rates: Single R 480.00 per night • Single sharing R 350.00 per night 11 Avent Road, Pinetown 3610 • Contact : Arlette Reid: 072-4022305 Crawford Reid: 082-5685869 • Fax: 031-7010455 • e-mail: crawf@telkomsa.net 72

WILDSIDE 2of4 2010

KwaZulu-Natal

Elephant Coast / Zululand

Free State LALA NATHI GUEST HOUSE

Field Guide & Nature Training

La La Nathi is the ideal stopover choice, situated on the N3 just outside the historic town of Harrismith in the Eastern Free State Highlands and a haven of peace for the weary traveller. The Drakensberg mountains, Clarens, and Golden Gate are within easy reach.

Creating awareness trough Wilderness info@bhejanenaturetraining.com

Tel: 058 623 0282 • Email: lalanati@internext.co.za • www.lalanathi.co.za

WILDSIDE

Professional Field Guide (6 m) FGASA Level 1 (30 days) FGASA Trails Guide (30 days) Next Level 1 course Starts 5 October ‘09

TRAVEL & ADVENTURE GUIDE

THE PLACE TO BE FOUND

Now operating from a new unfenced camp in the Thanda Private Game Reserve, KZN

Contact Tora Roberts to advertise in the Free State Guide: Cell: 082 376 9115 Fax: 086 671 1505 Email: tora@wildsidesa.co.za

www.bhejanenaturetraining.com Contact:

083 726 3826

Muzi Pan Canoe Adventures

Community based accredited canoe adventure guides on Muzi Pan

Tel: Themba 073 161 8189

WILDSIDE TRAVEL & ADVENTURE GUIDE

THE PLACE TO BE FOUND

Contact Tora Roberts to advertise in the KwaZulu-Natal Elephant Coast Travel & Adventure Guide: Cell: 082 376 9115 Fax: 086 671 1505 Email: tora@wildsidesa.co.za

Guided birding trails KOSI BAY Comfortable self catering lodge and luxury guesthouse set among tall trees in a quiet rural area close to beaches, lakes & game parks.

Tel. (035) 592 9728, 072 446 1525 www.kosi.co.za

WILDSIDE 2of4 2010

Eastern Cape

WILDSIDE TRAVEL & ADVENTURE GUIDE

THE PLACE TO BE FOUND

Contact Tora Roberts to advertise in the Eastern Cape Guide: Cell: 082 376 9115 Fax: 086 671 1505 Email: tora@wildsidesa.co.za

Mbotyi is the perfect place for anyone looking for a peaceful and tranquil holiday or for the adventurous wanting to explore the many beautiful and wild treasures this coast has to offer. Telephone: 039 253 7200/1 • Cellphone: 082 674 1064 • Fax: 039 253 7202 • www.mbotyi.co.za

Mozambique

The Kob Inn is the perfect venue for your special holiday. Overnight accommodation and three great meals per day! For further info contact: Kob Inn Beach Resort Tel 047 4990011, Fax 047 4990016 Email : info@kobinn.co.za www.kobinn.co.za

barra RESERVATIONS Tel: +27 11 3143355 info@barraresorts.com 74

WILDSIDE 2of4 2010

Barra Lodge

Flamingo Bay

Pomene Lodge