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Malbec, The Reflective Wine! YOUR
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CELEBRATING A CENTURY OF INNOVATION
BEVERAGE INDUSTRY OPERATIONS & RETAIL MANAGEMENT BACHELOR’S DEGREE Beverages are big business. Gain a unique and solid business management foundation specific to the fast expanding alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverage industry, which is increasingly in need of well-educated and experienced managers. Tailor your course selections to specialize in product knowledge (wines, spirits, beers, coffee, teas, waters, carbonated beverages, etc.) as well as:
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• marketing • management
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JWU Denver Culinary Arts Alum Jorel Pierce ‘07, Executive Chef, Stoic & Genuine The James Beard Rising Star Chef nominee has taken the helm as the Chef de Cuisine at Euclid Hall Bar & Kitchen and more recently as the Executive Chef for Denver’s hottest new restaurant—Stoic & Genuine, located in Union Station.
grow Since 1914, Johnson & Wales University has been an innovative leader in experiential education. Students learn from faculty with industry experience, who integrate arts and sciences with theory and relevant practice, helping students to build real-world experience in class and in the field. Students also learn to think globally, develop civic responsibility and acquire leadership qualities.
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Editor’s Letter Cheers to a Healthy and Happy New Year! This year has all the makings for another banner year. Today, there are more than 9,000 wineries in the US! That’s a colossal increase from 2003 when there was just 1,800! Wine consumption in the US is on the rise driving growth as the world’s largest wine market. One of wine’s rising stars is dry-style Rosé, which is experienced a double-digit growth in consumption last year. More and more producers are releasing their versions of incredibly food-friendly Rosés. We are jumping on the Pink bandwagon by launch our International Rosé Wine Festival in Colorado on June 11, 2015. For details visit www.drinkpinkvino.com This issue features our first ever visit to the Willamette Valley, Oregon. While our visit was brief, we can’t stop talking about the amazing wines, cuisine and passionate personalities. We also spent two days in Portland where we found an extraordinary food and wine scene. New York based columnist Ron Kapon has two features in this issue, taking us on a day tour of Harlem’s colorful and historic attractions. Ron also traveled to San Antonio to experience a Texas-sized culinary tour in America’s 7th most populated city. Looking back on 2014, we will miss three wine pioneers who we had the pleasure of working with on Long Island. Marco (70) and Ann Marie (56) Borghese who purchased Long Island’s first commercial vineyard Hargrave. They rebranded the winery as Castello di Borghese and brought art and culture to the region. Dr. Herodotus “Dan” Damianos, Founder of Long Island’s largest and most successful winery, Pindar Vineyards, passed away at age 82. Many will sorely miss them. CD Christopher J. Davies Publisher & Editor @chrisjdavies59
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Contents Wine Country International ﾂｮ Magazine Christopher J. Davies Co-Founder, Editor & Publisher Darcy R. Davies Co-Founder & Design Director William Davis, Senior Tasting Editor, CSS, CWE Managing Editor Beth Prieto Wine Education & Travel Editor Ron Kapon Food Editor Claire Walter Lifestyle Editor V.G. Walsh Communications Manager Karin Mclean Director of Photography Christopher J. Davies Contributing Editors: Blair Bowman Michael Long Barrie Lynn
WINE WORKS Pages 6 - 8 Champagne pop-up in Aspen, Colorado! Familia Zuccardi Single Vineyard The State of Oregon Wine
Radio Show Producer Tom Sheffield www.twcradio.com Advertising, Sponsorship and Club Sales Sharon Bolton Eastern Advertising Sales Emily White East Coast Business Manager Dorothy Brown Website Design www.nIdea.com A publication of Wine Country Network, Inc. Christopher J. Davies Chairman & CEO, Co-Founder Darcy Davies President & Co-Founder James Alterbaum, Esq. Corporate Counsel Wine Country Network, Inc. P.O. Box 6023 Broomfield, CO 80021 Tel. 303-664-5700 Fax. 303-648-4199 www.winecountrynetwork.com e-mail: info@winecountrynetwork.com Address editorial inquiries to cdavies@winecountrynetwork.com VINOTASTING Newsletter at www.Vinotasting.com Twitter: @vinotasting Wine Country International Digital Magazine is published 5 times per year by Wine Country Network, Inc. To view & subscribe visit: http://issuu.com/winecountrynetwork
DESTINATIONS Page 9 - 11 Marcus Samuelson Taste Harlem窶認ood and Cultural Tour
FOOD FOR THOUGHT Pages 12-17
Wine Country International Magazine does not accept unsolicited manuscripts, drawings, photographs or other works. All letters sent to Wine Country Network will be treated as unconditionally assigned for publication and copyright purposes. Contents ﾂｩ 2015 by Wine Country Network, Inc. All rights reserved. Nothing may be reprinted in whole or part without written permission of the publisher. All photography in this publication, unless otherwise noted is copyrighted by Christopher J. Davies,
all rights reserved. www.daviesphotos.com
COOKING THE BOOKS Pages 18-19 Book Reviews
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PASSIONS & PORTRAITS Pages 36-39 Venice, Italy Cementerio Isola di San Michele
FEATURE PATHWAYS Pages 44-37 Portland, The Pathway To Pinot Country!
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FEATURE Pages 20-31 Two Terrific Days in The Willamette Valley
QUICK TRIPS Pages 40-43 Culinaria
PARTING SHOTS Pages 48
San Antonio
Famous signed barrel
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WINE WORKS Champagne pop-up in Aspen, Colorado! Oasis, the world’s first pop-up Champagne and caviar bar returns this month to Aspen Mountain. Operated by The Little Nell, Oasis serves a regal combination of Veuve Clicquot and California Caviar to the delight of skiers and snowboarders seeking a unique on-mountain experience. The popular Oasis bar roams around the slopes via a snowcat, much like an on-piste version of a big city food truck. Slated to return over President’s Daybreak, Oasis sets up shop Friday through Sunday afternoons, changing settings each weekend. Follow The Little Nell’s Twitter, Facebook and Instagram accounts for clues as to where it’s surfacing next then just look for Veuve’s signature yellow umbrellas, chaises-lounges and solar-powered sound system. “Because it may be gone as quickly as it appears, Oasis compels you to experience it, or risk missing the opportunity,” describes Ted Mahon, a longtime Aspen Mountain ski instructor. “It’s not just about having a drink - it’s about spontaneity, and living in the moment.” Oasis serves caviar, bottled water and chips, as well as Veuve Clicquot, available by the flute for $19/glass, or by the bottle for $95, both inclusive of tax. https://www.thelittlenell. com/dining/bars-at-the-nell/Oasis-Champagne-Bar
Familia Zuccardi Single Vineyard Argentinian Malbec! Familia Zuccardi is one of the largest family owned wineries in Argentina and also one of the most innovative. Focusing on sustainable & organic farming, Zuccardi looks for producing the best grapes for their wines. With that, Zuccardi looks for the best location to produce the best Malbec’s from Mendoza. Sebastian Zuccardi, also known as Saba, owner and third generation wine maker, has sought out to find the best vineyards in the Uco valley to make the wines of Zuccardi. Sebastian is shown on the cover of this issue! We have attended several of his phenomenal tasting that clearly demonstrate terroir of the Uco valley from multiple single vineyards. He is making worldclass, expressive Malbec’s. http://www.familiazuccardi.com
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WINE WORKS The State Of Oregon Wine By Rick Palmer
Today’s modern Oregon wine industry is a far cry from that of the 1960s, when David Lett planted the first wine grapes in the Willamette Valley. During the 1970s, ‘80s and ‘90s, the Oregon wine industry had modest growth, but since the beginning of the 21st century, it has more than doubled in size. The state now has more than five hundred wineries — the majority of them located in the Willamette Valley — and they support a growing wine tourism industry. In fact, there are now many new restaurants as well as bed and breakfasts that have been established as ancillary to the wineries and wine country. Now the state of Oregon is promoting its wine tourist industry by marketing Oregon wine country as a wine and culinary destination. Oregon’s burgeoning wine industry has attracted enough attention that some very large, deep-pocketed corporations are investing in Oregon vineyards and wineries, thereby increasing international recognition of Oregon as an established wine-producing region. Domaine Drouhin from Burgundy, France, was the first; in 1987, they purchased acreage in the Dundee Hills of Willamette Valley and planted Pinot Noir grapes. More recently, Chateau Ste. Michelle, from Washington State, purchased Erath Winery, one of the Willamette Valley’s original wineries. California’s Kendall Jackson and Louis
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Jadot of France have also made modest investments in Oregon’s wine industry. These and future acquisitions will consolidate and most likely change the nature of the small, family-owned wineries for which Oregon has become known. As the number of wineries has increased to well over five-hundred (at last count five-hundred and fifty wineries in Oregon), the amount of acreage devoted to Vitis vinifera has also increased. The most prominent grape planted in the Oregon wine region is Pinot Noir, followed by Pinot Gris. Since the year 2000, there has also been a trend to plant more Chardonnay, as Oregon growers have discovered Chardonnay clones from France that are better suited to the cool Oregon climate. Chardonnay seems to be a logical choice;
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wine industry, which will continue to produce high-quality, world-class Pinot Noir with a higher price point. To endorse and promote its Pinot Noir, the Oregon wine industry holds several annual symposia, where producers, sommeliers, consumers, and journalists can discuss the challenges and merits of Pinot Noir. One winemaker even stated: “As I tell people, there’s nothing more frustrating than my wife and my kids and Pinot Noir, and northing more rewarding than my wife and my kids and Pinot Noir.” Among these conferences are the International Pinot Noir Celebration (IPNC), Pinot Camp, and the Steamboat Conference. Oregonians note that the pioneering spirit instilled by David Lett, Dick Ponzi, Dick Erath and David Adelsheim differentiates the Oregon wine industry from California, Washington State, and other wine growing regions. Oregon’s early pioneers of winemaking and their families had to work together to survive. They talked with each other, tasted each other’s wine, and shared ideas. They also shared equipment and resources as they struggled to produce wine. As many of the participants iterated, a rising tide lifts all boats. That collegial and collaborative environment continues in the Oregon wine industry today, although some fear that with big corporate dollars moving into the industry, and individuals with deep pockets buying wineries, that cooperative atmosphere could disappear.
Oregon’s climate and growing region is similar to that of Burgundy, France, the birthplace of Pinot Noir, which grows very well in Oregon. Burgundy produces more Chardonnay grapes than any other regional white varietal, so it follows that Oregon would also be a good growing region for this grape, and Oregon Chardonnays will be elegant, modeled after the Burgundian style. However, Oregon’s incredible focus on one varietal — Pinot Noir — distinguishes its wine industry from other wine-growing regions. Pinot Noir is the most widely planted Vitis vinifera in Oregon, accounting for seventy percent of the grapes grown in the state. Oregon’s effort to produce world-class, highquality Pinot Noir that can favorably compete with any other Pinot Noirs from around the world has led to ever-higher wine publication scores for Oregon Pinot Noirs. Pinot Noirs will continue to be the flagship grape of the Oregon
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However, most Oregonians still believe that the intimate environment is entrenched in the Oregon wine industry. “Many of the wine makers still market their wines together, and go to trade conferences together, and they are incredibly congenial with one another.” Furthermore, the majority of winemakers and insiders believe their personal touch and accessibility sets them apart from other winegrowing regions. In most instances, the winemakers are the ones pouring the wines in the tasting rooms, or answering the phone at the winery, or giving tours of their winemaking facility. Winemakers are telling the Oregon story — relating the soul of Oregon to wine consumers. Wine enthusiasts want to get a sense of place; they want to know about the climate, the soil types, the terroir, as they drink the wine and explore its origins. The majority of the winemakers use only estate-grown grapes to make their wines and consumers enjoy the fact that the wines they are tasting are made from grapes the winemaker grew, or that if they are in the tasting room they are drinking wine with the winemaker. Oregon has become a great wine-producing region and destination.
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DESTINATIONS Marcus Samuelson Harlem’s most revered chef was born in Ethiopia in 1971. He was raised in Sweden and moved to the US to start his culinary trek to Harlem. He had an apprenticeship with Aquavit. In 1995, he received a 3-star rating from the New York Times while Executive Chef of Aquavit. He opened the Red Rooster Harlem in 2010 in homage to a legendary speakeasy. The cuisine is a blend of soul inspired, spices and international dishes. You get rooster hot wings, shrimp and dirty rice to Scottish salmon. http://redroosterharlem.com/ Marcus currently operates 7 restaurants and has plan to open Streetbird Rotisserie later this year. Samuelson has authored numerous cook books and is a regular host on Top Chef Masters and ABC’s The Taste with Anthony Bourdain, Nigella Lawson, Ludo Lefebvre
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Taste Harlem—Food and Cultural Tour Story By Ron Kapon Since the 1920s, Harlem has been known as a major African-American residential, cultural and business center. Originally a Dutch village and formally organized in 1658, it is named after the city of Haarlem in the Netherlands. African-American residents began to arrive en masse in 1905, with numbers fed by the Great Migration. In the 1920s and 1930s, Central and West Harlem were the focus of the “Harlem Renaissance,” an outpouring of artistic work without precedent in the American black community. However, with job losses in the time of the Great Depression and the deindustrialization of New York City after World War II, rates of crime and poverty increased significantly. Since New York City’s revival in the late 20th century, Harlem has been experiencing social and economic gentrification. Harlem’s black population peaked in the 1950s. In 2008, the Census found that for the first time, Harlem’s population was no longer only a black majority, with a mixture of white and Latinos. Harlem as a neighborhood has no fixed boundaries; it may generally be said to lie between 155th Street on the north, and Harlem rivers on the east, 96th Street (east of Central Park) and 110th Street Cathedral Parkway (north and west of Central Park) on the south, and the Hudson River on the west. As of 2000, Central Harlem had a black community comprising seventy-seven percent of the population, the largest indigenous African-American community by percentage in New York City. The majority of African-Americans moved out as more and more foreigners began to move in. Central Harlem is the most famous section of Harlem and is thus commonly referred to simply as
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Harlem. West Harlem, consisting of Morningside Heights, Manhattanville and Hamilton Heights, is predominately Hispanic. African-Americans make up about a quarter of the West Harlem population. Morningside Heights has a large number of white Americans and is home to Columbia University (my alma mater), Barnard College, and New York Theological Seminary. East Harlem was originally formed as a predominately Italian-American neighborhood, but is now predominately Hispanic. Italian Harlem was formed when Southern Italian immigration began in the late 19th century. The area began its transition from Italian Harlem to Spanish Harlem when Puerto Rican migration began after World War II. In recent decades, many Mexican and Salvadoran immigrants have also settled in East Harlem, which is also known as El Barrio. The area is also home to over 400 churches. At a recent Harlem Week seminar I was intrigued by the discussion about the gourmet renaissance in Harlem. In the past two years, at least twenty new restaurants have opened there. I have eaten at Melba’s, Billie’s Black, Harlem Tavern, Hudson River Café, Miss Maude’s Spoonbread Too, Café Lucienne, Red Rooster and Dinosaur Bar-B-Que. It was
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at that Harlem Week seminar that I was told about Taste Harlem and Jacqueline Orange. Jacqueline Orange started Taste Harlem in 2007, and is still its owner and operator, introducing visitors and New Yorkers alike to Harlem’s culinary delights, lively art scene, and rich history and architecture. On a visit to New York, this Chicago native had discovered Harlem, and fell in love with the diversity and vibrant energy of the neighborhood. A major bank merger in 2005 took Orange away from corporate life and inspired her to step away from a desk job and pursue a dream of owning and operating her own tour company. “With the creation of Taste Harlem, I felt as if I’ve been able to incorporate all my past business experience into researching the latest happenings in Harlem. I am spending time with people, sharing something I love—great food, inspiring music, art, and a living history.” On a beautiful sunny Saturday morning at 10 a.m., our group of six met at Sylvia’s Restaurant on 126th Street and Lenox Avenue. Sylvia Woods, the “Queen of Soul Food,” founded the restaurant in 1962. After Sylvia passed away in 2012, her four children took over the operation of the restaurant and the other family-owned businesses, a catering hall and nationwide line of Sylvia’s food products and two cookbooks. www.sylviasrestaurant.com This was a walking tour. Private tours have the option to tour by bus or trolley with artists, historians, architects and actors as tour guides at Taste Harlem Tours. In addition to the food stops, we stopped by The Sol Studio, a local art gallery, where they were setting up a new art exhibit in a privately owned brownstone with a beautiful garden and art collection. We were lucky and found Samuel Hargress at his jazz, blues and R&B club—Paris Blues (founded in 1969).
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Back to the food visits. Les Ambassades is a Senegalese café and bakery. www. patisseriedesambassades.com. Tropical Grill Restaurant (no website) features Caribbean/Spanish food and was jammed when we arrived. The great part about this tour is the table waiting for us at every stop. Each restaurant has samples of its specialties, and nobody leaves the tour hungry. After the first stop I realized I should not have had breakfast. The walking helped me regain my appetite. There was a short stop at the tiny Le Lee’s Baked Goods, “home of the world’s most outrageously delicious rugelach.” Prior to entering the bakery they mentioned the ingredients that included nuts (I am allergic to all nuts). There was a moment of panic when I mindlessly grabbed and had eaten part of the rugelach. Luckily I only had a slight allergic reaction. www.leeleesrugelach. com On the way to our last stop, we visited the world¬-famous Apollo Theater, which opened on 125th Street in 1934. We were allowed into the lobby to view a montage of celebrities that had performed in this theater. We walked along 125th Street past the Adam Clayton Powell Jr. NY State Office Building. www. apollotheater.org Our last stop was at Jacob Restaurant—soul food and salad bar. He is a great businessman who closes the restaurant on Thanksgiving so he can give food away all day, without any restrictions. After his first six months he was able to open two additional restaurants in Harlem. His thought behind this was “if you give, it will come back to you.” www.jacobrestaurant.com Taste Harlem was a great tour. Prices range from $65 to $95 per person. Groups of four or more are $75 per person and twelve or more, $65 per person. One could not duplicate the food for this price. Having Jacqueline lead the tour— priceless. For a listing of her other tours go to www.tasteharlem.com.
Other stops were
Make My Cake Bakery and Serengeti Teas, Coffees & Spices, where we were able to sample several of their exotic concoctions. www.thesolstudio.com, www.parisbluesharlem. com , www.makemycake.com, and , www.serengetiteaandspices.com
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Colorado’s ever-evolving, dynamic culinary scene is one of the best in the nation. Its vast selection of locally distributed fine wines dwarfs most other states due to our residents’ and visitors’ insatiable thirst for quality. Even rare, limited-production fine wines seem to always get a higher than average allocation into Colorado. Combine that with amazing imported and domestic spirits and craft beers, Colorado chefs have an amazing palate of flavors to pair with. During the past several months our editors were excited to experience some of Denver and Boulder’s newest restaurants. Here is a list of our top picks: By Christopher J. Davies
Range Restaurant ****1/2
Range is a stylish hotspot located in the newly renovated Renaissance Denver Downtown City Center Hotel. It is housed in the historic Colorado National Bank Building, which has been painstakingly restored with spectacular vintage artwork, furnishings, and visibly open bank vaults that are now available for private meetings and dining. The restaurant space is well designed with good lighting, a wood-fired pizza oven and a lively bar. A second bar outside the restaurant, in the main lobby, makes for a great focal point and gathering place for both guests and locals. Range’s cuisine could be described as modern western fare with a sophisticated twist. As a photographer, I had a
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FOOD FOR THOUGHT field day photographing the main dishes, plated perfectly like eye candy. Executive Chef Paul Nagan hails from Chicago but has worked in numerous Marriot properties around the globe. Most recently, he was Chef at Zinc Kitchen. Chef Nagan sources products locally, but also brings in regional products from his most trusted purveyors like Creminelli Fine Meats in Salt Lake City, which supplies Range with cured meats such as Chef Nagan’s beloved Hot Coppa. Nagan also sources Ricotta from Colorado-based Fruition Farms. When asked what he felt about Denver’s restaurant scene, he said, “It’s great to see Denver and Colorado rival other major cities now! It’s a coming of age!”
The menu is divided into sections, making it easy to navigate: • For The Table - sharing items • Wood Oven Flatbreads • For Me - personal sized starters • Feast - Full portion/main course • Extras - Sides Chef Nagan tells us the most popular items lately are scallops, pork dishes and For The Table/Shared items. Seventy-five percent of the menu items are also available for hotel room service dining. We tried the highly addictive “Breaking Bread” chive drop biscuits with cheddar ($5), medium-heat Grilled Jalapeno Peppers stuffed with chorizo and wrapped with bacon and Fresno jam ($12), wholesome and healthy Bison Carpaccio, with capers, raisins, pine nuts horseradish, sage and Yukon chips ($16) and the savory Grimaud Farms Duck with toasted barley, peppers, cashew mole and tomatillo marmalade ($26)
Range’s Mojo: • • • •
Many house-made pickled items Tastes of Colorado - to help guests experience “local” In-house smoker, which enhances the meats’ flavors Artisan craft beverage program - fresh herbs, juices and unique mixology incorporating local spirits like Breckenridge Bourbon and Vodka, to name a few • Local wine Infinite Monkey Theorem - on tap! • Local craft beers on tap • Inventive Sweets and Stickies (after-dinner drinks) Range offers diners inventive comfort foods packed with flavors and textures. Although it’s located away from the busy 16th street mall, this restaurant is worth the trip! Wine Country International® Rating: 4.5 out of 5 for flavorful cuisine, service, inventive cocktails and atmosphere
Price Range: $$ ($17 to $37) Ideal for meetings or dates! Range 918 17th Street, Denver, CO 80202 (720) 726-4800 Website: http://www.rangedowntown.com/
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Lower 48 Kitchen ***** (5 stars out of 5)
While this restaurant has been open for just about a year, our editors feel it is a hidden gem in Denver’s massive restaurant scene. The quality of cuisine and service at Lower 48 rivals Colorado’s most famous restaurants like Frasca, Element 47 at The Little Nell and Fruition in Denver. Founders Chef Alex Figura and Mario Nocifera (GM) are seasoned restaurant professionals with resumés as fat as phone books. The two hail from top kitchens like El Celler de Can Roca, a three-star Michelin restaurant in Spain, Michael Mina, San Francisco, The Little Nell, Aspen and Frasca in Boulder to name a few! Together Alex and Mario see that Lower 48 delivers a tremendous value to its customers at a fraction of the cost! Lower 48 is clearly a destination restaurant. Although located near Coors Field, the restaurant does not benefit from the massive crowds of Colorado Rockies fans who walk by dreaming about Brats and Budweiser. The founders describe their restaurant as Mediterraneaninfluenced farm-to-table.
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Small plates are big at Lower 48, allowing you to sample a wide variety of tasty items. Chef Alex is focused on local ingredients, which change frequently (30 to 70% of the menu changes daily) with the growing seasons. So if a trusted purveyor calls and says he has a new crop of organic black-eyed peas, it might end up on tonight’s menu. One constant theme is the nightly fresh fish and meat entrées. At Lower 48, artful plating complements the design of the dishes, and vegetables get center stage on the plate. Best of all, you will enjoy the fresh flavors and textures brought out from the kitchen.
sea salt ($2). L48 sometimes offers a Kale version of this. • The Corn Dog - a petite take on an American classic, with house made mustard ($2) • Crispy Chicken Skin, leg confit, ranch and hot sauce ($3) • Chicken Liver Mousse and Brioche, with mission figs and mustard ($4)
Small (ideal for sharing) We loved: Summer Zucchini Salad, featuring squash blossoms, Gorgonzola, pickled pears, cabbage and sunflower seeds ($12). This salad represents a great cross section of Lower 48’s cuisine. Paired amazingly with Hungarian Furmint.
Each (L48’s take on a sushi menu, sans sushi, but fun to eat!)
Shaved Porchetta Salad, Olathe Sweet Corn, Peanut Potatoes, Sage Pesto and Pickled Green Tomato ($14). Paired well with a sparkling wine from the Loire Valley, France.
A selection of eight small, mix and match, highly inventive samplings you can order for sharing. Here’s a sample of what we enjoyed:
Colorado New York Strip, Potato Puree, Palisade Plums, Cauliflower, Garlic and Almond ($23). Paired amazingly with a Cabernet Franc from Loire Valley (Chinon), France.
The menu is broken into these sections:
• The current Beignet is stuffed with pureed Colorado beets, citrus and sumac ($2), but in the summer, the stuffing could be whipped tarragon cream with pickled ginger. • Gruyere Crisp, Feta, Sumac, Greens with sunflower seeds ($2) • The Radish Chip is simply made from radish, butter and
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Daily: The special of the day changes most frequently! During our visit it was a Trout Sandwich on 48-hour rye bread with everything topping ($4).
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Large: These are massive portions meant for sharing between 4-6 guests. During our visit, the features were Colorado Roasted Chicken ($56) and Nimon Ranch 21-day Dry Aged Rib Eye ($76). Lower 48’s Mojo: Chef Alex is a ripe young thirty years of age and an avid mountain biker. He’s got a lot of fresh ideas to match his cuisine. Chef Alex explains, “We try to do fun and focused events. We love to feature great beverages and producers. Like Woman Wine Dinners, Gluten-Free Dinners and Craft Beer Dinners featuring Colorado breweries such as the Fort Collins Brewery.” Beverage Program: Lower 48 has a serious, but fun wine and spirits program. It is just the right size to offer a great selection, but not confusing and massive like some of the large box restaurants. Best of all the price points will not gouge your wallet! Co-owner Mario Nocifero is deeply rooted in Aspen and the Little Nell, which is known as one of America’s breeding grounds for top Sommeliers and Master Sommeliers like Richard Betts and Mario’s personal friend and mentor Bobby Stuckey.
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Master Sommelier Brett Zimmerman, another well-known Colorado-based Sommelier, designed Lower 48’s original wine list. Lower 48’s Sommelier and Wine Director Gabe Oliver-Koge is a young and aspiring Sommelier, who also worked at Frasca and passed Level One with the Court of Master Sommeliers. Gabe has put his personal touch on the wine list, changing about fifty percent of the offerings.
You will find these treasures like Lucca-inspired house made Limoncello ($5), Medicinal flavored Unicum from Budapest, and the exotic, fruity El Maestro Sherry Pedro Ximenez ($10).
“Our restaurant offers 17 wines by the glass. Denver diners want to experience something different. We try to offer them unique wines like Barbaresco from Italy, or Furmint from Hungary,” explained Mr. Nocifero.
Great for dates, business meetings or everyday dining
The bottle list is fun and easy to understand. So whether you are a fan of new world, old world or trendsetter wines, there is a great selection of around seventy bottles, handpicked by the Sommelier and Mario. The price ranges is also easy to swallow, with many bottles ranging from $40 to $60. The most expensive found was the celebrated 2012 Caymus Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($140). Cocktails are sophisticated and fresh to match the cuisine. You will love classics ($9 to $11) like a Moscow Mule or Dry Martini. The house cocktails are perfect for starting the evening right. Our favorites included signature cocktail “Golden Spike” ($11) with Buffalo Trace Bourbon, Nonino Amaro, Carpano Antica, and Orange and Angostura Bitters. L48’s Cordials and Sweet Wines are not to be overlooked!
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Wine Country International® Rating: 5 out of 5 for flavorful farm-to-table organic cuisine, superior service and wine and cocktail program. Price Range: $$ ($2 to $82)
Lower 48 Kitchen 2020 Lawrence Street Unit A Denver, CO 80205 (On the corner of 21st Street and Lawrence) Open Monday through Saturday. Closed Sundays Tel. (303) 942-0262 Website: http://www.lower48kitchen.com/
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COOKING THE BOOKS FOOD & BEVERAGE BOOKS
Richard Sandoval’s New Latin Flavors Hot Dishes, Cool Drinks Authors: By Richard Sandoval Imprint: Stewart, Tabori & Chang Format: Hardcover, 224 pages
Rating: Exceptional! Must buy for foodies! ISBN: 1-61769-124-0 Price: $29.95
Webpage: http://www.abramsbooks.com/Books/Richard_Sandoval%E2%80%99s_New_Latin_Flavors-9781617691249.html Richard Sandoval is a member of a distinct group of chefs that will be recognized for making their mark on global cuisine during this century. Emeril Lagasse is known as the king of Cajun and Creole Cuisine, José Andrés is the king of Spanish Cuisine, but Sandoval is the king of Contemporary Latin Cuisine. Today Sandoval has over thirty restaurants worldwide. His most famous concept, Zengo, fuses an original blend of Asian and Latin Cuisine, with locations in New York, Washington D.C., Santa Monica, Denver and Dubai. This new book is well-designed and laid out with step-by-step tips and tricks that will help you create flavor-packed meals at home. The Latin Pantry section provides the list of ingredients that lays the foundation for creating contemporary Latin Cuisine. This book is beautifully illustrated with mouth-watering food photography. There are many easy-to-follow recipes for Tapas, Ceviches, Seafood, Poultry, Meats, Vegetables and Desserts. Section #11, The Latin Bar, is chock full of information for setting up your bar with the basic ingredients and tools for mastering the art of mixology. Buy this book - it will help you step up your flavor-filled enjoyment of great food and cocktails!
BOOZE & SPIRITS
The Essential Bar Book An A-to-Z Guide to Spirits, Cocktails and Wine Author: Jennifer Fielder Imprint: Ten Speed Press Format: Hardcover, 336 pages
Rating: Excellent! ISBN: 978-1-60774-653-9 Price: $19.99
Webpage: http://www.randomhouse.com/book/236005/the-essential-bar-book-by-jennifer-fiedler#tableofcontents This compact sized book should be titled “The New Testament Of Bartending.”Don’t let its small size fool you. It contains a plethora of cocktail recipes and detailed backstories about spirits and legendary cocktails. The wine information is minimal and clearly an afterthought. But all the spirits and cocktail content will make this a bartender’s best friend!
WINE
Sherry: A Modern Guide to the Wine World’s Best-Kept Secret, with Cocktails and Recipes Author: Talia Baiocchi Imprint: Ten Speed Press Format: Hardcover, 272 pages
Rating: Excellent! ISBN: 13: 9781607745815 Price: $24.99
Webpage: http://www.barnesandnoble.com/w/sherry-talia-baiocchi/1118138646?ean=9781607745815 Over the past two decades, Sherry has had as bad a rap as rosé, due to mass marketing of low quality, sugary products. The reality is that Sherry is one of the most versatile wines on the planet, available in many different styles and levels of sweetness. Thankfully Sherry is now experiencing an exciting new renaissance. This new book demystifies all things Sherry from centurylong traditions to new exciting Sherry- infused cocktails. Use this book as your resource for discovering the main styles and producers of Sherry.
Buy the Right Wine Every Time: The No-Fuss, No-Vintage Wine Guide Author: Tom Stevenson Publisher: Sterling Epicure Rating: Exceptional! Must buy for wine lovers! Format: Soft (flex) cover,320 pages ISBN: 1-4027-6341-7 US Price: $14.95 Webpage: http://www.sterlingpublishing.com/catalog?isbn=9781402763410 Tom Stevenson is the quintessential wine book author with more than thirty years of wine book authoring under his belt. His latest book is a virtual cheat sheet for wine novices looking to glide through any restaurant’s wine list. It helps you pick the most popular, reliable bottles based on varietal and price range. As a bonus you will benefit from the author’s many useful wine tips. Grab this book and you will buy the right wine, every time!
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COOKING THE BOOKS WINE
The Hills of Chianti: The Story of a Tuscan Winemaking Family, in Seven Bottles Author: Piero Antinori, Translated by Natalie Danford Publisher: Rizzoli Ex Libris ISBN: 978-0-8478-4467-8
Rating: Excellent Format: Hardcover, 240 pages US Price: $26.95
Webpage: http://www.rizzoliusa.com/book.php?isbn=9780847844678 The Hills of Chianti is a wonderful and insightful book that takes the reader on an insider tour of one of Italy’s most respected winemaking families. It is no secret that Marchese Piero Antinori has the vision, passion and patience for making world-class Italian wine. This book is a fabulous record of his achievements and vision for the future of Italian wine. His three daughters are poised to take the family business to new greatness! Buy this book if you would like to learn more about high-quality Italian wines. It will help you discover the heart and soul of Antinori’s beloved seven wines. From the highly-acclaimed Super Tuscans to Montenisa Brut Rosé (Italian sparkling wine), Antinori helps you discover his diverse range of wines. Reading this book will leave you dreaming about taking a delicious trip to Italy!
TRAVEL
The Best Place To Be Today: 365 Things To Do and The Best Day To Do Them Publisher: Lonely Planet Rating: Excellent ISBN: 9781743601655
Author: Sarah Baxter, Lonely Planet Publications Format: Soft cover, 272 pages US Price: $19.99
Webpage: http://shop.lonelyplanet.com/world/the-best-place-to-be-today-1/ Lonely Planet specializes in cutting-edge travel information and guidebooks. This book breaks down the best times to visit iconic and lesser-known destinations. It’s full of spectacular photography and useful travel tips that will help you plan for a more informed visit. If you always dreamt about visiting Venice, you might consider avoiding the Disney-esque crowds of the summer and visit Venice in mid-February during Carnevale. Have you imagined yourself rafting down the Grand Canyon some day? The guide suggests doing this beginning September 16th when commercial motorboats can’t run until next season. Want to run with the bulls in Spain? July 9th is the best time to visit Plaza de Torros in Navarra, Spain. Buy this book to plan smarter and be better informed before taking your next bucket-list trip!
The Food Book Publisher: Lonely Planet Rating: Exceptional! Must buy! ISBN: 9781743219492
Authors: Many, Lonely Planet Publications Format: Mini, Hard cover, 888 pages US Price: $24.99
Webpage: http://shop.lonelyplanet.com/world/the-food-book-mini-1/ This book is a must for every travel-loving foodie. Use it as a way to plan your trip, research local cuisine and beverages. At a massive 888 pages, this book provides an in-depth picture of each country’s signature cuisine, traditions and culture. The Food Book is beautifully illustrated with professional photos, tips and recipes.
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Feature : The Willamette Valley
Two Terrific Days in The Willamette Valley
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Story Christopher J. Davies, Photos by Christopher J. Davies I am a big fan of Willamette Valley Pinot Noirs. Some can even rival great Burgundies. Just ask Robert Drouhin, an esteemed Burgundy winemaker who fell in love with the Willamette Valley’s terroir and growing conditions. In the late 1980s he established Domaine Drouhin Oregon in the Dundee Hills. The winery’s slogan is French Soul, Oregon Soil! In 2013, a second major French investment was made by Maison Louis Jadot. Touring and tasting in the Willamette Valley is a breeze if you fly into Portland PDX. It is less than twenty-one miles away, or thirty-five minutes from downtown Portland. The Willamette Valley wine country has really blossomed since David Lett founded The Eyrie Vineyards in 1965. There are now more than 440 wineries, 647 vineyards, and a whopping 11,000 acres of Pinot Noir under vine in the Willamette Valley.
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With so many choices, you need to plan accordingly. A great resource is the Willamette Valley Wineries Association’s website: http://willamettewines.com We were lucky enough to visit in early October, during harvest time. The smell of the crush and fermenting grapes, compounded with all of the fast-paced activities, makes for an exciting time to visit! The 2014 harvest will go down as one of the most fruitful harvests in decades. Yields at many vineyards was as much as forty percent higher than average! This will result in more wine and greater overhead for wineries as they need to purchase more equipment, barrels and packaging.
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Later that morning, we joined other guests for a fabulous breakfast where we all watched the sunrise over the vineyard. The site was so special that we observed a camera crew preparing for a catalog shoot.
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Where We Stayed:
Black Walnut Inn & Vineyard *****
We found this lovely property online, and after emailing the owners Karen and Neal Utz, were very excited to spend a night at their property, thanks to their hospitality. While the website is wonderful, it can’t fully capture the experience one has driving up the road to the Inn, which is surrounded by grape vines. The main buildings and courtyard make you feel as if you had been jetted to Tuscany. When you enter the lobby of the inn, an owner or staff member greets you. The parlor has an extensive library and overlooks the vineyards below and majestic landscape in the distance. This is the place where the innkeepers conduct evening wine tastings. Rooms were very nicely appointed and loaded with details and quality bath products. Our room was the Rapture Suite, located on the second floor, with French doors leading to a patio. The view was spectacular, especially at sunrise. I took an early hike through the vineyards and found workers preparing to pick several rows of Pinot Noir! Rates vary by week/season: $199 to $429 (sample rates for May 2015)We plan to make the Black Walnut Inn and Vineyard our base when we return to the Willamette Valley later this year!
Wine Country International® rating (5 out of 5 stars) • Amazing property, convenient to world-class wineries • Bed and breakfast feel, with luxury hotel accommodations Black Walnut Inn & Vineyard 9600 NE Worden Hill Rd. Dundee, OR 97115 Tel. (503) 538-8663 http://www.blackwalnut-inn.com/
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Ponzi Vineyards ***** (5 out of 5!) The Ponzi Family is one of the founding families of the Willamette Valley. Dick and Nancy Ponzi moved from California to Oregon with their three young children in the late sixties and established their vineyards in 1970. The first Ponzi Pinot Noir vintage was 1974. In 1978, Ponzi was the first to plant a little known white grape Pinot Gris. Today a second generation of Ponzis runs the business. Daughter Luisa Ponzi is the winemaker, employing techniques she learned at enology school in Burgundy. She convinced her father to plant Dijon clones, which were better suited for the region’s climate. This was the Ponzi’s ah-hah moment. Middle child Anna Maria cut her teeth in publishing and marketing, before returning to run the winery’s national sales program. In 2014, Maria was promoted to President. “I grew up working the vineyards and bottling line. I hated it. So I pursued a successful career in publishing. I always knew that I would love to come home. One day my Dad told me, we could really use you here! After the 1988 article by Robert Parker came out praising our wines, it created so much excitement. So I came back and saw how things had changed. I felt I had come back with a purpose. Oregon’s success is amazing to me! It is great to see that a lot of the ideas the original pioneers agreed upon have become reality after forty-five years!” said Maria Ponzi.
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Today Ponzi’s vineyards are 100% certified sustainable. This commitment is certified by LIVE: Low Input Viticulture and Enology, Inc. Their winery is a state-of-the-art, gravity-fed winery designed by Dick Ponzi. In 2013, the Ponzi’s new tasting room was opened next to the winery. From the exterior, it is low profile and built into the landscape. From the interior, it is a very modern building, designed to be northwest elegant. Ponzi wines are distributed in all 50 states. Top wines tasted: • 2013 Ponzi Pinot Blanc $17, **** 1/2 • 2013 Ponzi Riesling $20, ****1/2 • 2011 Ponzi Avellana Chardonnay $60, ****1/2 • 2011 Ponzi Pinot Noir $22, **** • 2011 Ponzi Abetina 2 Pinot Noir $100, ***** Wine Country International® rating (5 out of 5 stars) • Amazing destination winery • Premium quality wines • Real deal, family run winery • Recommended: The Vintner’s Tour and Tasting (90 min.): $60 per person Discover the process behind Ponzi winemaking with a tour of the winery, followed by a reserve wine tasting with accompanying food pairings. Minimum 6 guests. By reservation only. Ponzi Vineyards 19500 SW Mountain Home Rd. Sherwood, OR 97140 Tel. (503) 628-1227 http://ponziwines.com/
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Penner-Ash Wine Cellars ***** (5 out of 5!) Lynn and Ron Penner-Ash own Penner-Ash Wine Cellars. Lynn is a seasoned winemaker and UC Davis graduate who made wine in California at Stags Leap Wine Cellars. She was also winemaker for Rex Hill Winery in Newberg, before she and husband Ron, now a retired schoolteacher, launched their wine brand. We are big fans of Penner-Ash wines. Back in 2011, we met Lynn and Ron at the Aspen Food & Wine Classic Festival and took a liking to them and their wines. During our visit we were asked if we would like to help out with harvest. If you ever have that privilege, jump on it. We drove up a hilly road to PennerAsh Wine Cellars, which is snuggled on a hillside with a stunning view of the Chehalem Valley. The winery and tasting room are modern and eco-friendly. We arrived at 9:00 a.m., just in time to meet Ron preparing for the arrival of the morning grape pickings. Darcy was put in charge of dropping baskets of freshly picked Pinot Noir grapes into the top of the sorting machine, while Ron Penner-Ash ran the fork lift, taking away empty baskets and replacing them with full baskets of grapes. I worked the sorting table below with three others, hand picking out dead leaves, twigs and bugs before the grapes ran up the conveyor belt to be crushed into juice and pumped into the winery. We worked for three hours, sorting 2.5 tons per hour. The reward was a fantastic lunch with the vintners, staff members and fellow harvest volunteers.
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We enjoyed tasting Penner Ash’s Viognier and Syrah with lunch. Afterwards we were given a personalized tour of the winemaking facilities and helped with punch downs of recently tanked Pinot Noir. We also got invited to taste seven soon-to-be-released single vineyard Pinot Noir wines that would be offered exclusively to wine club members. Top wines tasted: • 2013 Penner-Ash Oregon Viognier $30, ****1/2 • 2012 Penner-Ash Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir $65, ****1/2 Wine Country International® rating (5 out of 5 stars) • Amazing destination winery–worth a visit! • Boutique winery, friendly and approachable vintners and staff • Premium quality, good price points and value-driven
Penner-Ash Wine Cellars 15771 NE Ribbon Ridge Rd. Newberg, OR 97132 Tel. (503) 554-5545 http://www.pennerash.com/
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Dobbes Family Vineyards****1/2 Dobbes Family Vineyards is located on the main road in Dundee. The working winery churns out three wine brands and special wines made for others on a contract basis. The building has a small tasting room with an outdoor courtyard. Dobbes is all about the wine and less about the glitz. The tasting room is for tasting and wine sales. It is here that club members get to taste and buy Mr. Dobbes’s limitededition releases. The wine brands: • Dobbes Family Estate–Top quality wines, distributed nationally and • exported to eight countries! • Wine By Joe–Everyday approachable wines at pocket-friendly $15 to $20 price levels • Joe Vino–On Premise (restaurants only) A native of Colorado, Joe Dobbes has a wealth of experience making wine in cold-climate regions. In his early days he spent time gaining winemaking experience in Germany and France. Dobbes Family Vineyards owns the Sea Breeze Vineyard, located ten miles away from Salem in Polk County. The 216-acre property is influenced by the cool coastal breezes from the Pacific Ocean, which help extend ripening and impart more flavor to the grapes. The Sea Breeze vineyard was planted with Pinot Noir clones 113, 777, Pommard and Wadenswil in 1987. Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris and additional Pinot Noir were planted in 1999. There is now a total of 189 planted acres, comprised of 116 acres of Pinot Noir, 68 acres of Pinot Gris and 5 acres of Pinot Blanc. Dobbes also sources grapes from six of his favorite growers in the Rogue Valley –Dundee Hills, Chehalem Mountains, Eola-Amity Hills and McMinnville AVAs. This gives Joe an amazing palate of flavors to work with! I visited Joe at his winery in early October on a Friday morning. When I arrived, the winery’s harvest activities were in full swing! Joe met me in the tasting room where he broke out some bottles to show me his range of wines. To my surprise, this was Joe’s birthday! I was a little taken aback when he told me, but I could see that Joe had a lot of passion about his wines. Joe explained that he loved wines from the Rhone Valley and Bordeaux. Our tasting clearly demonstrated the wines Joe likes to make, and what he makes well, whether it was a special Dijon or Pommard clone, the use of new French oak or even a less famous varietal (for the Willamette Valley) like Viognier, Grenache Blanc or even world-class Chardonnay produced from Dijon clones. Dobbes explained, “Chardonnay is on round two! The future is bright for Oregon Chardonnay!” Top wines tasted: • • • •
Dobbes Family Estate 2012 Chardonnay $32, ****1/2 Dobbes Family Estate 2013 Viognier $26, ****1/2 Dobbes Family Estate 2013 Grenache Blanc $26, **** Dobbes Family Estate 2011 Patricia’s Cuvee Pinot Noir $55. ****1/2
Wine Country International® rating (4.5 out of 5 stars) • • • •
Low-key, practical tasting room that is all about great, unique wines Boutique winery, friendly and approachable vintner and staff Premium quality, good price points and value-driven Conveniently located near restaurants and Portland
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Editor’s note: I was excited to attend Joe’s wine dinner held at L’ Atelier Restaurant in Boulder, Colorado on December 10, 2014. The wines tasted even better when paired with Frenchinspired cuisine. Joe gave all attendees an amazing picture of his wonderful wine portfolio.
Menu by Chef Radek Cerny Oysters and Caviar Jovino Pinot Gris, 2013, Willamette Valley Pan Roasted Monkfish Dobbes Family Estate Grenache Blanc, 2012, Rogue Valley Braised Kurobuta Pork Belly Jovino Pinot Noir, 2012, Willamette Valley Colorado Rack of Lamb Dobbes Family Estate Pinot Noir, 2011, Willamette Valley Cranberry Orange Crème brûlée Late Harvest Viognier, 2012, Rogue Valley WINE COUNTRY INTERNATIONAL
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Domaine Serene ****
The legendary Domaine Serene’s wines are beloved by wine critics. Domaine Serene was founded in 1989 by Ken and Grace Evenstad, who named the estate after their daughter Serene. Ten years later, Robert Parker, Jr., named Domaine Serene’s Pinot Noir “Outstanding”. The winery and tasting room is exquisite. The Evanstads are now retired, but actively involved in the winery. The estate is pristine and polished. The tasting experience at the winery is outstanding and top class. The Exquisite Oregon Wines Experience is $60 per person and by appointment, available seven days a week at 11:00 a.m. and 2:00 p.m. Top wines tasted: • 2012 Domaine Serene Clos de Lune Vineyard Chardonnay $70, **** • 2011 Domaine Serene Yamhill Cuvée Pinot Noir $45, **** • 2011 Evenstad Reserve® Pinot Noir $65, **** Wine Country International® rating (4.0 out of 5 stars) • Amazing destination winery, amazing attention to details– worth a visit! • Premium-quality wines that you can drink today or lay down in your cellar for a special occasion. • Only downside is that the winery is run like a large corporation. If you are lucky to be visiting when the founders are in, that could improve your experience! Domaine Serene 6555 N.E Hilltop Lane Dayton, OR 97114 Tel (503) 864-4600 http://www.domaineserene.com/
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Where We Ate: Dundee Bistro ****
The Dundee Bistro is owned by the Ponzi family. It is conveniently located in the heart of downtown Dundee and nearby top wineries. The cuisine is focused on local ingredients and house-made pastas and pizza. The Ponzis have designed an outstanding wine program with a good selection of local whites and reds by the glass. The Oregon Pinot Noir bottle selection is massive, with more than ninety different wines ($35 to $225). The World Pinot Noir list is equally impressive, with nineteen bottles to choose from ($40 to $300). There is a generous selection of white wines, old world wines, new world wines, Rosé’s, and library wines by the bottle too! The menu is broad and offers a little for every sized appetite, from light snacks and appetizers to sandwiches, pastas and full entrée portions. Wine Country International® rating (4 out of 5 stars) • Great dining spot for lunch or dinner, in the heart of wine country • Sommelier-worthy, formidable wine program Dundee Bistro 100 SW 7th St. Dundee, OR 97115 Tel. (503) 554-1650 http://dundeebistro.com/
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The Joel Palmer House Restaurant *****
The Historic Joel Palmer House was once the home of one of Oregon’s great pioneers and lawmakers. The business is owned and operated by Chef Christopher Czarnecki, a fourth generation restaurateur and chef. Chef Christopher is also a U.S. Army Veteran. The cuisine at the Joel Palmer House is hearty and elegant. The restaurant specializes in creating earthy dishes from wild mushrooms and truffles gathered by the chef and his team themselves. The focus is local herbs, produce and vegetables. They also have a “culinary garden” behind the restaurant. Chef Christopher and his team really “get” Oregon’s fabulous wines. Together with Sommelier Andrea Fulton-Higgins, Chef Christopher dishes out amazing food and wine pairings. The restaurant boasts a cellar selection of more than 500 different Oregon Pinot Noirs! We asked Andrea to pair our dishes with Pinot Noirs that are on the restaurant’s by- the-glass list. And while the cuisine is a blend of countries and cultures, the presentations are European in style. Diners have the choice of several menus and course combinations, starting at $49 per person for three courses or $80 for Chef Christopher’s Mushroom Madness Menu. We absolutely loved: Joe’s Wild Mushroom Soup, Heidi’s Three Mushroom Tart, Beef Stroganoff with Wild Mushrooms over Rice and the Elk Ribeye. Save room for dessert! The Vanilla Panna Cotta was splendid! In addition to wines, the restaurant offers full bar service with signature cocktails and Oregon Dessert wines! Wine Country International® rating (5 out of 5 stars) • • • •
Great dining spot in the heart of wine country Original and inventive cuisine Sommelier-worthy, formidable wine program •Outstanding service
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Feature Pathways: Portland, The Pathway To Pinot Country!
Portland The Pathway To Pinot Country! By Christopher J. Davies
I am a big fan of Oregon wines. Having visited wine regions around the globe, one can develop a deep appreciation for the dedication and courage found in Oregon vintners. It is not easy to grow grapes and make consistently great wine in Oregon, which is a cold, rainy growing region, with coastal areas getting as much as eighty-eight inches of rainfall annually. Portland and the Willamette Valley area get about half as much rainfall as the coast. Visiting Portland has many advantages. From an amazing and highly creative culinary landscape, to friendly lovers of all
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things outdoors, Portland also has eco-friendly residents and a booming bunch of craft distilleries, brew pubs, wine bars and urban wineries. Best of all, Portland is less than one hour from America’s pre-eminent wine region known for producing worldclass Pinot Noir, The Willamette Valley! We visited Portland for two days and experienced only a tiny glimpse of what this city has to offer. Needless to say, we were very impressed and can’t wait to visit again soon.
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Where to Stay
Located downtown near great shopping and close to the Alder Street Food Cart Block, the Vintage Plaza is an outstanding, wine-themed boutique Kimpton hotel property. Each guest room is dedicated to Oregon’s wine country and honors a local winery. Wine tastings featuring local wineries are conducted in the hotel lobby every afternoon from 5-6 p.m. Book one of their spacious three-room Suites; they are bigger than a New York City apartment! Enjoy Italian cuisine at the hotel’s own Pazzo Ristorante. Currently closed for a major renovation of the rooms, lobby and restaurant, the Hotel is slated to reopen on March 17, 2015, with a brand new look and renamed as the Hotel Vintage-Portland.
2015 Upgrades: • New guestrooms with funky cool corkboard art • All 117 rooms named after Oregon wineries • Those wineries will pour at the hosted wine hour several times a year; they include Adelsheim, Ponzi, Rex Hill and Love and Squalor • An entirely new lobby space, with two floors (including a new staircase) • A game room with a pool table, shuffleboard and a double-sided television open to the guests. • Pazzo Ristorante will also unveil an exciting new menu Hotel Vintage-Portland **** 422 Southwest Broadway, Portland, OR 97205 Tel. (503) 228-1212 http://www.vintageplaza.com Vo l . 1 2 0 1 5
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The Little Bird Bistro *****
Good things come in small packages, or restaurants. The Little Bird is Chef Gabriel Rucker’s and his partner Andrew Fortang’s sequel to the revered Le Pigeon Restaurant. The Little Bird is located in downtown Portland, but is the spitting image of a thirties-era Paris bistro, complete with an expansive bar, tiled ceiling, robins-egg blue walls and mezzanine level. The restaurant seats seventy guests for lunch or dinner service. The Little Bird has a bustling lunch service. Things are busy and all the guests joyfully enjoy their food and sip wines over conversation. The noise level is moderate. Guests with reservations are seated relatively quickly. I was greeted by Tara McDonald, General Manager, who seated me at a mezzanine table. Tara informed me that she is also a Certified Sommelier, and offered to pair my dishes with wines from The Little Bird “by the glass” list. For starters, I enjoyed ultra-fresh Pacific Northwest Oysters, $3, paired with Extra Brut Rosé, Cremant du Jura, Domaine Tissot, NV, $14. This Biodynamic Pink French sparkler was fruit forward and paired perfectly with the oysters and mignon sauce.
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Next was the Charcuterie Board, which was full of a generous amount (perfect for sharing between four friends) of house-made items including Catalaninfluenced Chorizo Terrine, Tomatillo and Crème Fraiche, Tête de Cochon Croquette, Scallion Aioli, Pork Rillettes, Pickled Red Onions, Pork Rillons, Fennel Purée, Saucisson Sec, Chicken Liver Mouse, Port-Glazed Shallots, $25. Paired with a Côtes du Roussillon, 2013 Le Bosc Blanc 2013, Domaine des Schistes, $10. This was a wonderful un-oaked blend of Grenache Gris 30%,Vermentino 30% and Macabeo 40%. For my Entrée I picked the Cassoulet of Duck Leg, Pork Belly, Sausage and White Beans, $28. This was a hearty dish with complex flavors, and the addition of the smoked pork imparted another layer of texture and richness. The duck leg was bone-in and did not require a knife. Paired with a Côtes du Rhône, 2011 Eric Texier S. Rhône, $11. This was a delicate old-world style red from the Southern Rhône that is a blend of 50% Grenache, 20% Cinsault, 15% Carignan and white grapes up to 15%.
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For Dessert, a dozen Macaroons to-go $6 – that day’s flavor was pumpkin pie! The final pairing was a Madeira, New York Malmsey, Rare Wine Company NV, $11 A wonderful example of a world-class Madeira dessert wine, bold and rich with fruit cake flavors! Wine and Beverage Program The Little Bird’s wine list is primarily French, with a practical assortment of Oregon, Spanish and German bottles thrown in to match the menu. They offer eighteen wines by the glass, as well as nineteen Apertifs and Dessert wines by the glass. Other Beverages Classic cocktails, local beers on draft, and bottled beers and ciders. There were many other Entrees and Sandwiches on the menu that made my mouth water, such as ChickenFried Trout, Crab Roll, Burger with Seared Foie Gras on top! Wine Country International Rating: • • • •
5 Stars out of 5! Outstanding French wine list by the glass and bottle Fresh house-baked breads and desserts Stupendous French Cuisine The Little Bird Bistro 219 Southwest 6th Avenue, Portland, OR 97204 Tel. (503) 688-5952 http://littlebirdbistro.com/
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Grüner Restaurant ***** Many wine enthusiasts have discovered Austria’s flagship white wine Grüner Veltliner. Grüner means greener. Grüner Restaurant’s cuisine is focused on the Germanic/Alpine style cuisine commonly found in France’s Alsace region, Germany, Austria, Switzerland, the Czech Republic, Slovenia and Hungary. The common thread of these countries’ cooking is Spätzle, a noodle dish. You will also find creative takes on classic hearty dishes and a variety of meat and sausage dishes at Grüner. Grüner restaurant is an amazing find for several reasons. First, if you are into wines like we are, you’re in for a real treat. You will get to discover a very unique collection of bottles not normally found in ninety-nine percent of the restaurants in the U.S.
Interesting Reds: • Casa Ronsil, 2011“Avanà: L’enfant Terrible”(Terrible Child), Italy, $11 Made from 100% Avana. The vineyard is in Torino, close to the French/Italian border. • Conte Vistarino, Costiolo 2012 Sangue di Giuda dell’Oltrepo Pavese DOC, $12 A light and slightly sweet wine, with a sparkling finish, made in Northern Italy’s Lombardy region. Cocktails
You can try some of these exclusive varietals from Grüner’s “wines-by-theglass” list!
There are nine signature cocktails featured at Grüner. We were fond of the Hotel Savoy, a mix of Monopolowa vodka, rosehip-infused Dolin Blanc, honey and lemon, $10, and the Trunken Aprikose — Kentucky Straight Bourbon, Averna, Rothman & Winter Orchard Apricot liqueur and lemon, $10.
Interesting Whites:
Other Notable Beverages
• Domaine Léon Boesch, 2013 Sylvaner, Alsace $11 A refreshing white wine reminiscent of Grüner Veltliner • Chateau d’Auvernier, 2012 Neuchâtel Blanc, Chasselas, Switzerland, $15 Neuchâtel Blanc, light in color, fruity with a hint of lime. This grape is believed to date back to the time of the Crusaders.
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Grüner has a great selection of local craft and imported beers, spirits and after-dinner drinks on their bar list.
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Grüner’s Cuisine Favorites during our visit: • Beet-pickled deviled eggs, $5 • Crisp Polenta Croquettes stuffed with raclette cheese, $6 • Chicken Liver Mousse, grilled bread, house-made pickles, $7 • House-made bratwurst and saucisson sausages and sauerkraut with sweet-hot mustard and Yukon gold potatoes, $19 • Buckwheat Spätzle, chanterelles, hen-of-the-woods, leeks Savoy cabbage, fontina, crème fraîche, chives, $23 • Hungarian Mixed Grill — Sudan Farm Lamb Rack Chops, Smoked Lamb Sausage, Grilled Eggplant, Cherry-Tomato-Parsley Salad, Kirby Cucumber-Sour Cream Salad, $29
Tip: Ask your server to suggest wine or beverage pairings for your dishes. Wine Country International Rating: • 5 Stars out of 5! • Amazing wine list by the glass and bottle • Original interpretations of classic Alpine-Euro cuisine Kask: The same owners have a small saloon adjacent to Grüner called Kask. This is where you can grab a hand-crafted cocktail, microbrew and small appetizer plate.
Dessert is a must! Try the Berliners – cinnamon-sugar donuts, speculoos cookie ganache, $8
Grüner
This restaurant is small and professionally lit for creating a comfortable dining experience. Service is first class and the presentation of the food (plating) is top notch and artistic. The cuisine is healthy to heavy, so leave your diet home for the evening. If you are a foodie, we predict you will be photographing every dish!
527 Southwest 12th Avenue, Portland, OR 97205 Tel. (503) 241-7163 http://grunerpdx.com/
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Feature : Portland, The Pathway To Pinot Country!
Pok Pok Restaurant *****
One cannot visit Portland without a visit to American-born Chef Andy Ricker’s original Pok Pok Thai Restaurant, located in a house with an add-on shack. Mr. Ricker has spent more than twenty years visiting Thailand and learning about authentic Northern Thai ingredients and cooking techniques. It is said that his dishes are more authentic then those created by Thai immigrants who operate restaurants in the U.S. In 2011, Ricker received the James Beard “Best Chef of the Northwest” Award. He has been a guest on several Travel Channel shows and most recently on Anthony Bourdain’s “Parts Unknown” on CNN. When visiting I had no expectations about sipping wines at Pok Pok. In fact, I am proud to say I enjoyed belting down a Vietnamese Beer “33”, $6, with Pok Pok’s signature “Ikes’s Vietnamese Fish Sauce Wings”, $14.50. I was pleasantly surprised that Pok Pok served several wines by the glass and bottle, and tried a wonderful Oregon Gris that was o n tap, $8. Wine Country International Rating: • 5 Stars out of 5! • Authentic Thai Cuisine • Great bar selection of beers, Bourbon and cocktails Pok Pok Restaurant 3226 Southeast Division Street Portland, OR 97202 Tel. (503) 232-1387 http://www.pokpokpdx.com/
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Eastside Distilling
Where to Drink & Taste Southeast Wine Collective ****1/2
Urban wineries are the rave! And the Southwest Wine Collective brings winemaking and Oregon-grown grapes within sniffing range of Portland residents. The business was founded in 2012 by Kate and Thomas Monroe, a passionate young couple who fell in love with wine and then with each other! The business can also be called a custom crush facility, where a group of boutique winemakers can handcraft wines under the same roof. They also share a tasting room and event space where wine lovers can come, relax and sip limited-edition wines and nosh on small plates. During our visit in early October we watched the busy harvest activities, including the making of the couple’s Division Winemaking Company’s 2014 Rosé, with Lucy-esque bare foot crushing techniques.
Like other states, Oregon is gaining its fair share of rising new distilleries. Eastside Distilling is Portland’s go-to for quality craft spirits. Their popularity has fueled the company’s recent expansion into larger facilities. Eastside is making six main products, plus several holiday products. Our favorites: •
Visit for a wonderful tasting experience. The SWC currently has nine participating wineries. Wine Country International Rating: • 4.5 Stars out of 5! • Great tasting room with an excellent selection • Delicious small plates and gooey cookies! Southeast Wine Collective 2425 Southeast 35th Place, Portland, OR 97214 Phone:(503) 208-2061 https://sewinecollective.com/
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Eastside Portland Potato Vodka packs a little bit of Russia in every bottle! $19.99 Eastside Burnside Bourbon, Barrel-Aged Straight Bourbon, $27.95 Eastside Cherry Bomb Whiskey, with bits of real Oregon Cherries, $29.95
Tastings and purchases are offered on a daily basis. Eastside also has additional satellite tasting rooms throughout Portland. Visit their website for locations and details. WINE COUNTRY INTERNATIONAL
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Quick Trips: San Antonio
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Culinaria San Antonio Story by Ron Kapon Recently I visited Culinaria, a four-day festival in San Antonio, at the invitation of the San Antonio Convention and Visitor’s Bureau (CVB). This may have been the best-organized press trip I have ever attended. I had a great hotel, excellent meals, on-time departures and arrivals, and enough free time to allow me to swim, use the Jacuzzi, fitness center and rest. I like very early flights out of New York. It is easy to get to the airport; the crew and plane are already there, and the airport is not crowded. Each of my 4 flights ¬ – LaGuardia to Dallas and Dallas to San Antonio – left and arrived early. It was the same for my return trip. I had several free hours before the opening event. The weather was perfect ¬– mid-80’s and sunny. The only problem was American Airlines broke my bag and claimed nonresponsibility because it was the wheels they ripped off. It was time for another bag anyway. I learned that San Antonio, located in south-central Texas, is the seventhlargest city in America and the second largest in Texas (behind Houston but ahead of Dallas/Forth Worth), with a population of 1.3 million (2.23 million in the greater metropolitan area). Sixty-three percent of the population is Hispanic. Named for Saint Anthony of Padua, the city is best known for River Walk, The Alamo, The Tower of the Americas, and its Spanish missions. It is also home to the four-time NBA champion San Antonio Spurs. In addition, several armed forces facilities and Fortune 500 companies make San Antonio their home ¬– Fort Sam Houston, Lackland Air Force Base, Valero Energy, Tesero and Nu Star Energy, to name a few. My host, the San Antonio Convention and Visitors Bureau, informed me that around thirty million tourists come to San Antonio every year. New York City drew over fifty-four million in 2013. Many of you know the history of Texas and its conflicts with Mexico. San Antonio grew to become the largest Spanish settlement in Texas and the capital of the Spanish (Mexican) province of Tejas. Mexico allowed European and American settlers from the United States to move into the territory. The Texian Army was a military organization consisting of volunteer and paid soldiers who fought the Mexican army and captured San Antonio during the 1835 Texas War of Independence. History books, TV shows and motion pictures inform us that in February of 1836, the Battle of the Alamo took place when General Santa Anna attacked the Alamo mission. All the Alamo defenders were killed and “Remember the Alamo” became a rallying cry when the Texian Army eventually defeated
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Santa Anna. In 1845, the United States annexed Texas as a state in the Union. This led to the Mexican-American War, which the United States eventually won. The Alamo is one of the most popular tourist sites in Texas. Culinaria is a not-for-profit organization dedicated to benefiting the San Antonio community and promoting San Antonio as an ideal wine and food destination. It showcases San Antonio’s culinary talent, with its Latin and European roots. It also provides culinary scholarships and aid to San Antonio’s chefs. Total attendance for the 2014 Culinaria Festival Week (May 14-18) was 17,000. I can only comment on the events I attended. There were seventeen journalists in our group from all over the United States and Toronto. Our hotel for four nights was the Eilan Hotel Resort and Spa. Following is my Trip Advisor review of the hotel. This is a new concept for Marriott, known as the Autograph Collection and referred to as a luxury boutique hotel. The hotel opened with 165 rooms in July 2012. It is part of a development that includes office buildings, apartment rentals and condos, built to resemble a Tuscan village. There are two retail centers on the property, offering both luxury and budget shopping. Six Flags Fiesta Texas is just around the corner, and both the River Walk downtown area and the airport are twenty-thirty minutes away. While I waited for my room, I checked out the hotel fitness center and indoor pool. I had lunch in their small market, which also serves the nearby property owners. The salad was similar to what I would get at any takeout airport restaurant. However, $3 for a 12 oz. can of Coke was way too much. My room was fine except for the confusing lighting system and the bathroom doors, which would not stay open. I did meet the general manager, and he agreed both needed to be redone. The bed was very comfortable and both the air conditioning and TV worked perfectly. The chair next to the desk had no levers to raise or lower it so I used the extra pillow when I wanted to work at the desk. The outdoor pool was large, with a hot tub and plenty of lounges. I loved it! Have lunch or dinner at Sustenio, their farm-to-table restaurant, which uses local and sustainable resources. Check the breakfast prices. The WINE COUNTRY INTERNATIONAL
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Quick Trips: San Antonio
Culinaria
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first morning I had an excellent omelet, juice, coffee and a breadbasket – the bill came to $37. The other mornings I chose the continental breakfast, which included juice and coffee, for $16. Our first function was a sampling of foods from Sustenio Restaurant with Chefs Stephan Pyles and Mike Collins. Sustenio is founded on the principle of using local and sustainable resources whenever possible – i.e. farm to table. This was one of the best “tastings” I had during the festival. But dinner followed, a trend that resulted in a three-pound weight gain. Some of our group went to the Food Truck Competition, while I joined four others from our group and headed over to the Boiler House Texas Grill and Wine Garden in the Pearl restaurant area of town (we went back to the Pearl area several times during Culinaria) . That evening, the Boiler House was hosting the Blackbird Vineyards winemaker dinner, and there were six other people at the dinner that had purchased tickets but were not part of our group. The wines from the Pomerol region of Bordeaux – Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon are the inspiration for this Napa Valley wine. Unfortunately, the presenter was a sales person and not a winemaker. Once she realized several of us really knew wine, she backed off and let us lead much of the discussion. Not my favorite event. Friday morning was a late sleep-in day, so I cajoled the General Manager and Front Desk Manager into giving me a golf cart tour of the property. Our early lunch was at Cured Restaurant with Chef Steve McHugh, housed in the administration building of the original Pearl Brewery. He had been Chef de Cuisine for Chef John Besh’s restaurants in New Orleans (the last time I was in New Orleans I went back to his restaurant twice). Cured is a gastro pub with a Hill Country feel, featuring craft beers and artisanal house-cured meats. I loved it. We had a private 1½-hour cruise down the San Antonio River to take in the sights and sounds of River Walk. The city recently completed a $384 million improvement project to lengthen the River Walk to fifteen miles. The perfect weather – mid 80’s and sunny – put me at ease with the world. Most of our group split off to visit the Mission San Jose, while six of us found foodie bliss with Chef David Gilbert. His Tuk Tuk Taproom features Southeast Asian street food partnered with sixty craft beers. Chef Gilbert has traveled extensively in Burma, Vietnam and Thailand for many years, and wrote Kitchen Vagabond about his travels and career as a chef. This was a new experience for me and I learned a lot. I really enjoyed the rest period as all of us journeyed to the nearby Shops at La Cantera for the Best of Mexico walkaround tasting. Guest chefs from Mexico and San Antonio presented their take on Mexican cuisine. There was Tequila, wine and beer to match the delicious food, but I found it tiring and somewhat difficult to balance a plate and beverage at the same time. After each serving, I looked for a place to sit. Most of us were ready to return to the hotel by 9 p.m. Saturday morning we headed to the Pearl Farmers Market on the grounds of a former brewery, which now houses a Culinary Institute of America campus, apartments, shops and restaurants. The market is a producers-
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only farmers market, so all the goods found there are hand-planted, raised and harvested within 150 miles of San Antonio. By 10 a.m. we had gathered at the Culinary Institute of America’s third campus, at Hyde Park and Napa, for our four-hour mini bootcamp in Latin cuisine. I rarely cook, but under the guidance of Chef Sergio Remolina and his two assistants, our group prepared a glorious luncheon. We had so much fun that we cancelled our wine seminar attendance. Many of us returned to the hotel for some rest time, but I went out to the pool and enjoyed the hot tub. That afternoon, I was one of only five people there. Saturday afternoon I had a tough time finding a lounge because, as I found out, the residents of the complex had use of the pool. Next it was off to the Henry B. Gonzalez Convention Center for the Grand Tasting. We were afforded early entrance and use of the Bubble Room (as in bubbly stuff) with tables and chairs. This was more convenient and worked out much better for me. I went out to find food and brought it back to try with the Champagne and sparkling wines. There was even a separate dessert area. Yummy. A few members of our group chose to go to the VIP and chefs after-party. I, along with half our group, chose to return to the hotel. Sunday morning we took a private tour of the Alamo with an expert guide. Most of us had heard the story before, but it was great to see the actual site. Afterwards it was time for brunch at Casa Herman. We had a traditional Mexican barbacoa brunch with Chef Johnny Hernandez at his hacienda. I still can’t believe I ate all that food (see the trend). After brunch, we departed for the new Briscoe Western Art Museum, which opened in 2013. The three-story building houses artwork, sculptures and photography created by renowned Western artists. Remember my mention of the huge amount of food at brunch? After our tour of the Art Museum, it was back to the Pearl District for a walkaround Burgers, BBQ and Beer tasting. I had one burger and half a beer, and was ready to go back to the hotel. Almost all of chose the same early return. A change of clothes and a shower and I was ready for a private event, not part of Culinaria, at the San Antonio Botanical Gardens. Chef Elizabeth Johnson prepared a pop-up dinner made from nourishing, healing local and seasonal foods, bringing our bodies back into balance. She encompassed the “root to stalk” usage of plants and food and served her Crave Market juices to help us eat, quench and thrive. After eating all that food for four days, I was ready for her meal and felt satiated. The next morning our group split up for many different departure times. Everything went off smoothly, and I returned to a normal eating pattern of three meals a day. Thank you Geiger ladies and CVB folks for planning and executing the perfect trip!
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For More Information: www.visitsanantonio.com www.eilanhotel.com www.culinariasa.org www.tuktuktaproom.com www.riosanantonio.com www.sara-tx.org www.nps.gov/saan www.pearlfarmersmarket.com www.ciachef.edu/texas www.thealamo.org www.briscoemuseum.org www.boilerhousesa.com www.curedatpearl.com www.trueflavors.com/casa-hernan www.sabot.org Vo l . 1 2 0 1 5
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PASSIONS & PORTRAITS : Venice, Italy
Cementerio
Isola di San Mi
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Photos by Darcy & Christopher J. Davies Story by Christopher J. Davies
ichele
During our numerous ferry rides through the canal we noticed that very few people ever get off at this stop. So with several HD SLR’s in tow, we decided to get off and explore this sacred island for ourselves. After disembarking, we observed that no one else had gotten off our ferry. We watched the Vaporetti sail off into the foggy lagoon headed to Murano. No one looked back! Venice is one of our favorite cities in the world. And while the main attractions are packed with hundreds of thousands of tourists, we found excitement exploring the outer islands like Murano, Mazzorbo and Burano. While the rest of Europe travels by bus, Venice has the Vaporetti, a flotilla of reasonably priced, bus-sized public water ferries (8.50 Euro), a necessity in a city really made up of 117 small islands linked together by bridges. The most famous, must-see attractions are St. Mark’s Square (Piazza San Marco) and The Basilica di San Marco. St. Mark’s Basilica is a bucket list destination (18 Euros). Skip the big lines and book your ticket in advance! Visit http://www.venetoinside. com/en/attractions/saint-marks-basilica/search-availability/ Murano is known worldwide as the “glass and furnace” island. There you will find artisan glass blowers creating multi-colored vases, bowls, jewelry and ornaments. The lavish Murano chandeliers are created by hand using ancient techniques, costing from 650 to 5,000 Euros. Getting to Murano by local ferry involves numerous ferry stops, the last of which before Murano is the Cemetery Island. Cementerio Isola di San Michele stands out in the north lagoon as a lonely place. The church dates back to 1469 and is the first example of Renaissance architecture in Venice.
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PASSIONS & PORTRAITS : Venice, Italy
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The walled-in island has its very own ferry stop. Some of the cemetery’s more famous residents include composer Igor Stravinsky and Noble Prize winning poet Joseph Brodsky to name a few. During our numerous ferry rides through the canal we noticed that very few people ever get off at this stop. So with several HD SLR’s in tow, we decided to get off and explore this sacred island for ourselves. After disembarking, we observed that no one else had gotten off our ferry. We watched the Vaporetti sail off into the foggy lagoon headed to Murano. No one looked back! Walking through the walls of San Michele was creepy as we came to several walls that had mini-statuettes and busts of Popes and Madonnas on top, draped with old, dusty rosaries. Since Venice is at or in many locations below sea level, all graves are above ground in walled-in crypts. Some of them are quite elaborately decorated with realistic sculptures of the dead. During our one-hour visit we found a few that seemed to be watching us. After checking the ferry schedule we hurried to the dock to catch the ferry to Murano where we felt solitude in having lunch and finding unique glass ornaments.
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Parting Shots
Parting Shots Famous signed barrel by Julia Child at Wolffer Estate, Sagaponack, New York.
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Coming Next Issue: Sexy Sangiovese-Our coming issue will feature an in-depth story on Tuscany signature wines.
Sexy SangioveseTuscany’s Fruit-Forward Reds! YOUR
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