SA Connoisseur - Issue 273, Feb/Mar 2019

VOL 273

BEST VIEWS IN THE WINELANDS

SWEET

GIN IS

STILL IN

THIS SEASON’S MUST TRY COCKTAILS

SUMMER RECIPES

A full flavoured dry sparkling Rosé made by the traditional Methodé Cap Classique, including a second fermentation in the bottle. Careful blending by our experienced winemaker creates an elegant and classy Rosé with a youthful berry fragrance and striking finesse on the palate.

www.simonsig.co.za

Simonsig Wine Estate, Kromme Rhee Road, Koelenhof, 7605 | Phone: 021 8884900

SimonsigWines

Simonsig_Wines

SimonsigWines

Not for Sale to Persons Under the Age of 18

SOUTH AFRICAN

CONNOISSEUR www.wineofthemonth.co.za

EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Colin Collard ART DIRECTOR Taryn Breetzke DESIGNER Chloe Damstra WINE BUYER/PUBLISHER Natalie Collard WINE TASTINGS/ ASSISTANT TO BUYER/ ADMINISTRATOR Alicia Bento

Between two mighty oceans, on the southern tip of Africa, lies the historic Saxenburg Wine Farm. Here, the seasons and unique terroir conspire with the cellarmaster’s craft to produce wines of consistent and exceptional quality.

WINE TO TRY: Private Collection Cabernet Sauvignon. This 100% Cabernet Sauvignon is a classic wine with elegance and structure. It shows layers of ripe blackcurrant and cassis fruit combined with a penetrating ripe tannin finish.

REGULAR CONTRIBUTORS Articles—David Biggs & Irina von Holdt OTHER CONTRIBUTORS Lorraine Lines (Consultant)

HAVE A QUESTION? HERE’S HOW TO CONTACT US:

• Advertising call on 021 492 4102 or email natalie@wineofthemonth.co.za.

• Wine delivery or wine orders call 021 492 4100, fax 086 674 3966, or email info@wineofthemonth.co.za.

• Write to the Editor: Email us on cheers@wineofthemonth.co.za or write to The Chairman, Connoisseur, P.O. Box 30, Constantia 7848. Send press releases via email to cheers@wineofthemonth.co.za. All contributions are edited for space and style.

FIND US:

Facebook: @wineofthemonthsa Twitter: @WotMSA Instagram: @wineofthemonth TERMS AND CONDITIONS FOR COMPETITIONS: The winners will be the first correct entries drawn after the closing date. The judges’ decision is final and no correspondence will be entered into. The prize is not transferable and may not be converted into cash. If the winner has not responded to our announcement, via their contact details provided, within three months of the competition’s closing date, Connoisseur will send the prize to the next available winner. Employees of Converge (Pty) Ltd, Connoisseur, their families, their agencies, Connoisseur contributors, and any other parties associated with the competition may not enter. Entrants to regular competitions may only win once. SMS entries cost R1.00 each. Competitions are for South African residents only.

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South African Connoisseur is published every alternate month by Converge (Pty) Ltd, Capricorn Boulevard South, Capricorn Business Park, Muizenberg, Cape Town, 7945. © Copyright 2018. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. Liability. While every care is taken in the preparation of this magazine, the publishers cannot be held responsible for the accuracy of the information herein, or any consequence arising from it. The views and opinions expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of Converge (Pty) Ltd, the publication or the publisher.

W W W. S A X E N B U R G . C O. Z A Address: Polkadraai Road, Kuils River, 7580 | Tel: +27 21 903 6113 | Email: info@saxenburg.co.za

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06 14 19 CONTENTS 05 WHAT’S ON—EVENTS IN AND AROUND SA 06 WINE & DINE—WHAT’S NEW IN FOOD AND DRINK 08 A VALENTINE’S GIFT GUIDE FOR WINE LOVERS 10 BOOZY WINE BOOKS TO READ 12 WINE ESTATES WITH THE BEST VIEWS 14 THREE SUMMER GIN RECIPES 16 A CLOSER LOOK AT VERJUICE 19 THREE DELICIOUSLY SWEET RECIPES TO TRY

23 27 28 29

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IRINA VON HOLDT: LATEST PANEL TASTINGS YOUR WINE QUESTIONS ANSWERED THIS MONTH’S WINNING WINES CONNOISSEUR’S CHOICE—A SELECTION OF TOP WINES TO TRY DAVID BIGGS: A DIFFERENT KIND OF HOUSE WINE

ON THE COVER Discover three delicious cocktails to make with Victoria Handcrafted Gins p.18

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Panel Reports on p.23

A Summer to Remember

February is the month of love—so why not ditch the usual flowers and chocolates … and give your wine-loving partner something they will really, really like. Have a look at p.08 for Valentine’s Gift Ideas for Him and Her. Or how about something to read? We’ve got news on boozy books, from wine guides to Champagne coffee tables books—there’s something for every lover. (p.10) Not into buying gifts? Well, how about making something sweet for your darling instead? On p.19 we have delicious desserts and sweet treats to try.

With summer in full swing, the warm evenings go hand in hand with, what else, but cocktails. Yup, we’re still riding the gin train with a selection of stylish Victoria Gin Cocktails on p.14 While gin is still definitely in—Rosé wines will forever be another summer staple. In our latest Panel Report find out what Irina von Holdt (and the rest of the gang) discover about this style of wine, and the intriguing category we call Unusual White Wines.

Last but never least, David Biggs talks about a new kind of house wine that we know you’ll just love.

There’s more, of course. Not forgetting valuable information on all the latest and greatest in wine.

Cheers to a fun-filled summer!

Valentine’s Gift Ideas on p.08

Boozy Books on p.10

CHAIRMAN OF WINE-OF-THE-MONTH CLUB

Fr AnSchhoek Summer W i n e S , 2 F e b r uA ry Celebrate the height of summer in style at the ultimate garden party at Leopard’s Leap Family Vineyards. Sip on seasonal inspired wines such as whites, rosés, MCCs and light red wines showcased by the Franschhoek Vignerons. Enjoy your wine alongside food freshly prepared by Chef Pieter de Jager and his team while relaxing on the lawn and enjoying live music.

Sounds pretty perfect, eh? Tickets cost R280pp via www.webtickets.co.za. For more information, email info@franschhoek.org.za

What’s on Festivals and events around SA

“aunty Merle the Musical” in Jozi, 1 february-3 March The hilarious Marc Lottering brings his latest hit show to the heart of Jozi. Written by Marc Lottering and directed by Lara Foot the production has received four Fleur Du Cap Theatre Nominations and is not to be missed.

Sit back and prepare to be entertained.

Catch it at the Joburg Theatre in Braamfontein for R145-R290pp. Visit www.joburgtheatre.com for more info.

cApe t oWn muSeum n i g h t, 2 1 F e b r uA ry For one night only, you are invited to explore the Mother City’s museums after-hours and free of charge. From 5-10pm visitors can wander around various exhibitions and enjoy a special programme of performances, walkabouts and other exclusive attractions on the night. An initiative of Thursday’s projects with iziko museums of South Africa as a founding partner. For more info, visit www.museum-night.co.za.

Magoebaskloof berry festival, 2-3 february Beautiful Limpopo comes alive with their annual Berry Festival Beautiful Limpopo comes alive with their annual Berry Festival hosted by Haenertsburg village and Blueberry Heights Farm in Magoebaskloof. Enjoy berry picking and the market which offers lovely selection of food stalls, locally grown produce and crafts.Tickets available at Quicket. Visit www.berryfestival.co.za to find out more. c o n S tA n t i A F r e S h F i n e W i n e A n d F o o d F e S t i vA l , 2 4 F e b r uA ry on the pretty-as-a-picture lawns of Buitenverwachting Wine Estate you’ll find a hub of foodies and wine enthusiasts for the 10th annual constantia Fresh Fine Wine & Food Festival. choose from over 200 wines to swirl and sip while you snack on gourmet canapés prepared by some of constantia’s most talented chefs.tickets are R600pp and include wine, food, music and a glass. Visit www.constantiafresh.com for more information.

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WINE & DINE | What’s New

Grande Provence Gets Festive

February is harvest time in the winelands and that means it’s time for Grande Provence Heritage Wine Estate in Franschhoek to roll out the barrel for their annual HARVEST FESTIVAL IN FRANSCHHOEK on the 23rd of February. Get ready to pick and stomp grapes to the jovial beat of the Kaapse Klopse in the vineyards, followed by a harvest table heavily laden with delicious fare and the chilled sounds of live contemporary music. With plenty of action for the children, the big kids can look forward to a wonderfully laid back day. Tickets are R650 for adults and R325 for children under 12.

For more information email reservations@grandeprovence.co.za.

THE WWF (WORLD WIDE FUND FOR NATURE) recently launched a new app, called the CHAMPION WINE FARM GUIDE, where Bouchard Finlayson, along with the other WWF Conservation Champions are featured as environmental leaders in the wine industry. ‘Wine lovers, locals and tourists are encouraged to use this guide that recognises wineries for their commitment to conservation, responsible production practices, integrated environmental management systems, and spearheading innovations in water, energy efficiency and climate adaptation.’ Guests using the WWF app on their phone or tablet on site when visiting Bouchard Finlayson will receive a complimentary wine tasting of three wines.

WINE & DINE What’s New in Food and Wine

THE ULTIMATE APRON Meet Mungo’s trio of CHEF’S APRONS—the latest additions to

their range of apparel. But don’t be fooled by the name, this is an apron for all the bakers, braai masters, potters, painters and weekend gardeners out there. With over-the-shoulder, adjustable straps, the Chef ’s Apron is the ideal fit for him or her, tall or short. It also comes equipped with a generous double pocket for stashing all the utensils or tools needed to get the job done.

Available in (and we love this) Berry, Aubergine and Yam, online and in-store for R490. www.mungo.co.za

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What’s New | WINE & DINE

A WEEKEND ESCAPE AT JAN HARMSGAT Discover the historic charm of JAN HARMSGAT—just a 2-hour drive from Cape Town—where this five-star gem of a guest house is situated on a working wine and pomegranate farm. With 10 rooms this secluded spot is ideal for a quick family break or romantic getaway. Enjoy delicious farmstyle breakfasts under the pecan nut trees, or dine under the stars at the on-site fine dining restaurant paired with award-winning wines from the farm. They even offer a 4x4 vineyard safari through the pomegranate groves and vineyards with incredible views of the valley and picnics to be enjoyed by the pool or under the trees. Sounds like heaven, right? To book your stay go to www.jhghouse.com.

Meet the Hey Caesar Salad

AVO EVERYTHING?

The Brooklyn-based ‘avocado bar,’ AVOCADERIA is the first of its kind in the US and is designed with the avocado addict in mind. Its latest endeavour is their Avocaderia cookbook filled with all the firm favourites from the healthy hot spot’s menu—from the simple to the weird and wonderful. As we can’t hop on a plane to NYC every time we want to eat something delicious, the cookbook will have to suffice for now.

A NEW DELI AT DALEBROOK TIDAL POOL Cape Town’s newly opened DALEBROOK CAFÉ, situated directly opposite Dalebrook tidal pool in the landmark building Dalebrook Place, is set to become a Kalk Bay favourite, thanks to the careful renovation and an on pointe menu by owner Charmaine Lilje of Chardonnay Deli fame. The seaside sibling of Constantia-based Chardonnay Deli pays homage to its historical roots as the building is over 120 years old. “We wanted to reclaim that sense of place and history with the café, which is why we’ve left the beautiful original brickwork we discovered exposed and why we worked so hard with local craftsmen to build a space that has integrity from the woodwork up”, explains Charmaine, a Kalk Bay resident herself. Signature dishes include an avocado smash breakfast served with salmon and poached eggs, a raw energy bowl, seafood risotto, grilled linefish and homemade pies and quiches. Dalebrook Café is open daily for breakfast and lunch, as well as dinner on Thursday, Friday and Saturday. For more info, visit www.dalebrookcafe.co.za

R343 from Exclusive Books.

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XXXXX | XXXXXXXXXX

The Duchess Botanical, R429 Carrol Boyes Glass Decanter, R3995 from Wine-of-the-Month Club

Cellar Wine Cooler, R2495 from Block & Chisel

Valentine’s Gift Ideas FOR HER Wine Glass, R85 from Poetry

Tall Glass, R75 from Poetry

Ditch the chocolates and give your wine-loving loved one something she really likes instead

Helvetiq Wine IQ Board Game, R335 from Takealot Sohana Diamond Dispenser, R249 from @home

Julep Southern Cocktails Refashioned, R438 from Exclusive Books 8

SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

Brushed Antique Copper Corkscrew, R799 from Le Creuset

Experts Collection Roc Element, R695 from Weylandts

Valentine’s Gift Ideas FOR HIM Lose! the soap-on-a-rope and the usual pair of socks

Steel Waiter’s Friend, R769 from Le Creuset

Black Hip Flask, R795 from Weylandts Cavalli Colt Cabernet Sauvignon 2016, R159 from Wine-of-the-Month Club Carrol Boyes Chip & Dip-Laid Back, R4895 from from Wineof-the-Month Club

We love Weylandt’s range of bar and glassware

Bottle Stopper, R145 from Weylandts

Dolce Stil Novo Aesthetic, POA from Smeg

The Bar Deluxe Electric Corkscrew, R399 From @home

KNOW WHAT GOES REALLY WELL WITH A GLASS OF WINE? A BOOK ON WINE. HERE ARE 5 DRINK-THEMED BOOKS TO GET STUCK INTO.

2. Champagne by Peter Liem A beautiful box set—complete with seven vintage maps in a pull-out drawer—this coffee table book is based on six years of on-the-ground research and an all-access pass to Champagne growers. Champagne is one of the most sought-after wines in the world. However it is also one of the most misunderstood. Peter Liem gets to the core of the industry, making it easier for you to honestly judge and understand what you’re drinking. This box set would make a wonderful gift for a Champagne lover.

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R1174 from Exclusive Books

1. The 24-Hour Wine Expert

by Jancis Robinson From one of the world’s most respected female wine critics—this is the quintessential guide to wine in just a hundred pages.

Robinson shares her expertise and covers everything you need to know, including topics like the difference between red and white (you want to know that, don’t you?), the shape of bottles and their labels, descriptions of taste, colour and smell, price points and—of course—pairing wine with food. We can’t think of a better way to spend 24 hours.

R118 from Exclusive Books 1 0

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BOOZY

Books 2019 TO READ IN

Imagecredit: credit:Gentl Gentland andHyers Hyerscourtesy courtesyofofTen TenSpeed SpeedPress Press Image

Wine | BOOK REVIEWS

3 Photograph courtesy cf Matt Nguyen

Jacket design by Chin-Yee Lai | Jacket photograph courtesy of Veuve Clicquot

BOOK REVIEWS | Wine

3. Cork Dork by Bianca Bosker

4. The Widow Clicquot by Tilar J Mazzeo

New York Times journalist and amateur drinker Bianca Bosker didn’t know much about wine— until she decided to start a new career in the industry. The ohso-witty Bosker takes the reader inside underground tasting groups, exclusive New York restaurants and California wine factories as she attempts to answer the biggest question of all: What’s the big deal about wine?

This New York Times bestselling biography is about a visionary young widow who built a world famous Champagne empire. BarbeNicole Clicquot Ponsardin also became a legend in tumultuous times—while showing the world how to live with style. In this rather intoxicating book, Mazzeo not only shares the story of this remarkable woman but also takes us on the fascinating journey of making Champagne. You won’t look at Verve Clicquot in quite the same way…

R219 from Takealot.

R299 from Exclusive Books

5. The New Wine Rules

by Jon Bonné In The New Wine Rules acclaimed wine writer Jon Bonné (both a published author and columnist in the San Francisco Chronicle) explains the new rules of wine in simple, beautifully illustrated, easy-to-digest tidbits. So forget all those stuffy old rules and read how fun and easy the new wine rules are. For example: A wine’s price rarely reflects its quality.

You can drink rosé any time of year.

Don’t save a great bottle for anything more than a rainy day. Sounds like our kinda book.

R219 from Takealot.

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CAVALLI ESTATE, SOMERSET WEST

WINELANDS | BEST VIEWS

SOUTH AFRICA IS BLESSED WITH GRAND VIEWS AROUND ALMOST EVERY CORNER. And, then there are the winelands—with some of the most beautiful vineyards in the world.

Looking for something breathtaking?

Here are wine farms with some of the best views in the business.

WINE WITH A

View Our best sitting and sipping spots

Stretched across 100 hectares of land in the Helderberg region of Stellenbosch, CAVALLI ESTATE boasts 26 hectares of vineyards and 10 hectares of indigenous fynbos gardens. Enjoy tasty food and views to match at the estate’s restaurant which overlooks a tranquil dam set against the backdrop of the Helderberg mountain range. www.cavallistud.com

DE GRENDEL RESTAURANT, PANORAMA DE GRENDEL’S famous view is one for the books (and Instagram)—while sipping on their award-winning wines you get the full expanse of Table Mountain. Sit back and admire the Mother City’s best feature from the comfort of De Grendel’s open-plan dining room—or, if the weather is good, from their outside terrace. www.degrendel.co.za

DELAIRE GRAFF RESTAURANT, DELAIRE GRAFF ESTATE, BANGHOEK VALLEY

CHEFS WAREHOUSE AT BEAU CONSTANTIA, CONSTANTIA Situated at the top of the Constantia Valley, CHEFS WAREHOUSE AT BEAU CONSTANTIA has the best seat in the house for uninterrupted views of the valley. The best part? It’s right bang in the middle of the ’burbs, making it an ideal spot for an after-work supper or sundowner not far from your Cape Town home. www.beauconstantia.com

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SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

Perhaps the ultimate in winelands luxury— Delaire Graff is secretly tucked away in the Banghoek Valley. Their beautiful Delaire Graff Restaurant has some of the most spectacular sweeping views—on the left you’ll see the Simonsberg Mountain range and on the right the Klein Drakenstein and Groot Drakenstein ranges. www.delaire.co.za

BEST VIEWS | WINELANDS

INNER CITY VIEWS IT’S NOT ALL IN THE CAPE WINELANDS, OF COURSE. Here are some inner city spots with killer views too:

1. MARBLE, ROSEBANK:

OVERTURE, HIDDEN VALLEY WINES, STELLENBOSCH Bertus Basson’s OVERTURE serves up delicious, modern food alongside their unmatched views of Stellenbosch Hills— and on a very clear day you can even see as far as Robben Island. For a different view point, try The Deck at Hidden Valley down below—a self-help eatery on a floating deck overlooking the water. www.hiddenvalleywines.co.za

TOKARA, HELSHOOGTE PASS You’ll find TOKARA RESTAURANT 400 meters above sea level on top and is set against of the backdrop of the Simonsberg. The family estate offers visitors contemporary cuisine and awardwinning wines with panoramic views over Stellenbosch and False Bay. The building itself is an architectural dream too, made from glass, steel and stone. www.tokararestaurant.co.za

THE RESTAURANT AT WATERKLOOF, SOMERSET WEST A truly modern space featuring out-of-this-world vistas, WATERKLOOF WINE ESTATE’S restaurant is high above the valley where you can get a bird’s eye view of the beauty beneath you.

Created in a glass promontory, the restaurant extends from the tasting lounge and gravitational cellar. Inside Chef Gregory Czarnecki dishes up contemporary classics, complemented by the estate’s top class wines. As if you needed another reason to go…The Restaurant at Waterkloof also took the number one spot last year in the Top Ten Restaurants at The Eat Out Awards. www.waterkloofwines.co.za

LA PETITE FERME, FRANSCHHOEK Situated on the slopes of the Oliphants Pass and Middagkrans Mountain Range, LA PETITE FERME offers all kinds of enchanting views. The restaurant and tasting room has views across the valley floor below, but it’s the laid-back atmosphere on the lawns is what we love the most. www.lapetiteferme.co.za

Enjoy David Higgs’ South African fare made over open-fires with a side of some of the best views in the city.

There’s nothing quite as mesmerizing as twinkly lights, right?

2. EB SOCIAL KITCHEN, HYDE PARK: Still one of the most unassuming restaurants— that’s tucked in the back of a book shop—has one of the best uninterrupted sunset views of Jozi through 40 metres of glass windows.

3. THE LIGHTHOUSE BAR AT THE OYSTER BOX, UMHLANGA ROCKS: One of the most picturesque views Durbs has to offer (and the best cocktails too) which overlooks the ocean as far as the eye can see.

4. SILO HOTEL, CAPE TOWN: Set in a converted 1920s grain elevator with pillowed glass windows and amazing views of the harbour and mountains—The Silo is the ultimate spot for a glass of bubbly.

5. TINTSWALO ATLANTIC, CHAPMAN’S PEAK DRIVE: Sitting at the foot of Chapman’s Peak, this boutique hotel is perched on a pebbled beach with panoramic views of the Hout Bay harbour, the dramatic Sentinel mountain peak and the Atlantic Ocean.

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profile | victoria gin

Victoria

Handcrafted Gin

Proudly independent and purposefully small

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sOUTH AFRICAN CONNOIssEUR

victoria gin | profile

In 2017 VIctorIa GIn founder fell In loVe wIth the pIcturesque town of prInce albert In the heart of the Karoo. Inspired by the surrounding flora, the sweet serenity and small town charm—Victoria Handcrafted Gin was created. The range is made up of three variants: Amber, Blue and Pink—each with their own signature taste and unique flavour profile. No additives or colourants are used in the distillation process—which means you’re getting 100% natural goodness in every bottle.

hey bIG three

to get even more pleasure out of Victoria Handcrafted Gins we’ve put together three tasty cocktail recipes for you to try. They’re simple and fuss-free making them the ideal tipple to enjoy while watching the sunset or relaxing by the pool. Enjoy!

1.Victoria amber

2.Victoria blue

Golden in colour—Victoria Amber is a rich, aromatic gin which bursts with a bouquet of fynbos botanicals.

Deliciously smooth on the palate with just a little hint of spice and a subtle citrus zing.

Bright Blue in colour with twelve signature African botanicals delicately augment Victoria Handcrafted Blue, infusing delicate berry, grape and fig notes with just a touch of citrus.

The Amber Amplifier Serves 1 InGredIents double shot of Victoria Amber Gin tonic water strawberry and basil, to garnish crushed ice, optional Method Pour the double shot of Victoria Amber into a tall, chilled glass. Top with tonic water and garnish with slices of fresh strawberries and basil leaves. Top with crushed ice for an extra cool cocktail.

3. VIctorIA PINk Blushing bright pink, this gin has a beautifully balanced flavour of juniper and sweet rose that are followed by a light and refreshing note of grapefruit and orange rind.

inTo The blue Serves 1

in The pink Serves 1

InGredIents double shot of Victoria Blue Gin single shot of coconut syrup tonic water blueberries, to garnish ice, optional

InGredIents double shot of Victoria Pink Gin single shot of elderflower syrup tonic water blueberries and strawberries, to garnish

Method Pour the double shot of Victoria Blue into a glass. Add the coconut syrup followed by the tonic water. Add in the fresh blueberries. Freeze the blueberries and they will cool down the drink without diluting the flavours.

Method Pour the double shot of Victoria Pink into a big glass followed by the elderflower syrup. Top with tonic water and then add in the fresh blueberries and sliced strawberries.

sOUTH AFRICAN CONNOIssEUR

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verjuice

Va Va Voom Adds gentle acidity and subtle sweetness to your cooking—and crisp, bright tartness to a martini or gin and tonic

By David Biggs

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sOUTH AFRICAN CONNOIssEUR

Cocktail lovers have discovered that verjuice adds a delicious piquancy to their drinks and are using it increasingly as a substitute for lemons

V

erjuice? Never heard of it. Must be some modern food fad.

Hardly modern! Verjuice is the juice of unripe grapes and has been around for centuries. It was a common ingredient in almost all cooking in the Middle Ages and was only replaced by lemon juice when the Crusaders introduced lemons into European cooking.

Good cooks have always needed an acidic ingredient to cut through fattiness and add piquancy to their food. Some use vinegar, some use lemons. In ancient times they used verjuice.

It makes good sense, though, to consider adding verjuice to a dish which is likely to be accompanied by a fine wine. There must be some affinity between the complexity of wine and the clean acidity of verjuice, which is simply unripe grape juice. They share the same origin and are unlikely to clash.

Modern hosts often start an evening with a glass of champagne, which is made from unripe grapes (the grapes for Méthode Cap Classique wine are harvested weeks before the rest of the crop is picked). The acidity in MCC bubblies is perfect for cleansing the palate and preparing the mind for the meal that is to follow.

The inclusion of verjuice in any menu performs a similar function. Other acidic foods like lemons and vinegar tend to close the taste buds, but verjuice

apparently opens them, making the palate more receptive to flavours. (Well, this is what the verjuice aficionados tell us.)

Cocktail lovers have discovered that verjuice adds a delicious piquancy to their drinks and are using it increasingly as a substitute for lemons. A splash of verjuice adds a tangy note to a martini or gin and tonic and you don’t have the hassle of having to slice the lemon and store the unused half. Some home makers are using it to create a delicious cordial by making a syrup of verjuice and sugar.

When I attended a cookery course for men, many years ago, my instructor told me: “If you want to add flavour to almost any dish and you’re not sure what it needs, add lemon juice. Everything tastes better with lemon juice.” Not many people had heard of verjuice in those days.

At present it is mostly restaurant chefs who use verjuice. You don’t find it on every supermarket shelf, but watch the trend grow. It will soon be a common item in every enthusiastic cook’s store cupboard.

You want to know the secret ingredient that makes Dijon mustard

For more info about Maggie Beer go to www.maggiebeer.com

taste different from all other mustards?

They use verjuice in the recipe instead of vinegar.

It has the added advantage of containing almost no sugar, so it should be greeted with enthusiasm by health nuts, who regard sugar as the devil’s own diabolical poison.

While verjuice is comparatively hard to get in America and Europe it is becoming easier to find in South African and Australian stores. Australian food writer Maggie Beer has devoted many articles to the glories of verjuice and has launched her own brand of the product.

In Australia it has become so popular that they are even marketing ‘cultivar’ verjuice. At present it is mostly made from grapes like Colombar or Chenin Blanc, but watch this space for news of more exotic versions like Chardonnay verjuice and Cabernet Sauvignon verjuice.

This could be the start of a whole new age of snobbery in the competitive world of braai sauces.

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Havana Hills is superbly sited on a hill 18 km north of Cape Town. The majestic view of Table Mountain, Robben Island and the Atlantic Ocean leaves all visitors inspired by the beauty.

Here the classic noble varieties are all grown with the utmost care and attention.

Only natural organic compost is used for fertilization. The cellar is modern with state of the art equipment to ensure hygiene and strict quality control. However time honored traditional methods of oak cask ageing is maintained to ensure that the delicate flavours and deep rich mouthfeel leaves the connoisseur with a sense of the timeless beauty which is Havana Hills.

W W W. H AVA NA H I L L S . C O. Z A Address: Van Schoorsdrift Road, Philadelphia | Tel: +27 (021) 972 1110 | Email: info@havanahills.co.za

Wagashi in the shape of a camomile flower served in a cocktail glass

Sugar

Roses

AND

Three sweet and deliciously dainty recipes to try

MADELEINES AND WAGASHI Makes 8 INGREDIENTS: For the anko: 100 g | ½ cup red beans 180 g | ¾ cup castor sugar For the daifuku: 160 g | 1 cup mochiko (sweet rice flour) 150 g | 2⁄3 cup castor sugar 180 ml water potato flour, or cornflour, for dusting

Madeleines and wagashi with roses in an antique baking tray 2 0

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For the madeleines: 150 g | 2⁄3 cup unsalted butter, melted and slightly cooled, plus extra for greasing 125 g | 1 cup plain flour, sifted, plus extra for dusting 2 large eggs 150 g | 2/3 cup castor sugar 1 tsp vanilla extract 1 tsp lemon zest, finely grated 1 pinch salt To garnish: icing sugar, for dusting 2 tbsp golden marzipan, shredded METHOD: 1. For the anko: Place the red beans in a saucepan and cover with 500 ml water. Bring to the boil and cook for 5 min.

2. Drain well and return the beans to a clean saucepan. Cover with 500 ml water, bring to the boil, and then reduce to a simmer for 1-1.5 hours until the beans are very soft and can be crushed between your fingers; add more water as needed to prevent them from drying out during cooking.

3. Drain again and transfer to a clean saucepan, stirring in the sugar. Cook over a moderate heat, stirring frequently, until a shiny, loose paste forms, about 6-8 min.

4. Transfer to a container and let cool to one side.

5. For the daifuku: Thoroughly whisk together the mochiko, sugar, and water in a mixing bowl until the sugar has dissolved.

6. Place in a steaming basket or colander and sit over a half-filled saucepan of simmering water, covering with a lid; cover the lid with a tea towel to prevent condensation dripping into the dough.

7. Steam the mochi dough for 15 min, stirring with a rubber spatula after 7-8 min; the dough should be partially translucent and sloppy in texture when ready.

8. Dust a large rectangle of greaseproof paper with potato flour or cornflour. Turn out the mochi dough onto the paper with the rubber spatula or pastry scraper.

9. Dust the dough with more potato flour before flattening out with your hands.

Liberally dust a rolling pin with potato flour before rolling out the dough into a thin rectangle, approximately 0.25 cm thick.

10. Chill for 15 min. After chilling, remove the dough and cut out eight rounds with a cookie cutter, approximately 8 cm. Cut out eight smaller rounds from the scraps, approximately 3 cm.

11. Brush off any potato starch with a dry pastry brush and cover with small squares of cling film between assembly.

12. Place a generous dollop of red bean paste in the centre before bring the edges up and around the bean paste but not sealing.

13. Arrange a smaller dough round on top of the bean paste before pinching and sealing to the dough surrounding it, creating a decorative seal; you may need to wet the dough with a little water to adhere.

14. Carefully use your finger to create a shallow crater in the top of the daifuku by depressing it.

15. Repeat steps 11-14 for the remaining daifuku. Store in an airtight container for up to 2 days.

16. Preheat the oven to 190°C .

For the madeleines: 17. Grease two 12-hole madeleine moulds with a little butter. Lightly dust with flour, tipping out the excess.

18. Using an electric mixer, beat together the eggs and sugar in a large mixing bowl until pale and thick, 2-3 min.

19. Add the vanilla extract, lemon zest, and salt, beating thoroughly to incorporate.

20. Fold in the sifted flour and then gradually stir in the melted, cooled butter until fully incorporated and the batter is smooth.

21. Spoon a generous tablespoon of the batter into each hole of the moulds. Bake for about 15 min until golden-brown and puffed.

22. Remove the moulds to wire racks to cool for 5 min.

23. Gently turn out the madeleines and arrange in a cupcake or baking tin with the daifuku.

24. to garnish: Dust with icing sugar and garnish the daifuku with shredded golden marzipan before serving.

Heart-shaped cookies with sugar icing Heart-sHaped cookies witH sugar icing Makes 36 IngredIents: For the cookies: 375 g | 3 cups plain flour, plus extra for dusting 1 pinch ground cinnamon 1/2 tsp salt 240 g | 1 cup shortening, or butter, softened 200 g | 3/4 cup castor sugar 2 small egg yolks 2 tsp vanilla extract 125 g | 1 cup ground almonds For the icing: 250 g | 2 cups icing sugar hot water Method: 1. For the cookies: Stir together the flour, cinnamon, and salt in a large mixing bowl.

2. In another mixing bowl, cream together the shortening and sugar with an electric whisk, about 3-4 min.

3. Add the egg yolks and vanilla extract

beating well to incorporate. Fold in the flour mixture and ground almonds, mixing to a soft dough.

4. Shape the mixture into a disc, wrap in cling film, and chill for 1 hour.

5. After chilling, preheat the oven to 170°C (150°C fan). Grease and line two large baking trays with greaseproof paper.

6. Roll out the dough on a lightly floured surface to about 0.5 cm thickness. Use a heart-shaped cookie cutter to cut out shapes from the dough.

7. Arrange between the prepared trays, spaced apart. Bake for 16-20 min until set and pale golden in colour.

8. Remove from the oven and let the cookies cool on their trays, set on top of wire racks. Remove from the trays once cool.

For the icing: 9. Sift the icing sugar into a mixing bowl.

Stir in enough hot water to make a smooth pourable icing.

10. Using a small offset spatula, spread the icing onto the cookies. Let the icing set before serving the cookies. sOUTH AFRICAN CONNOIssEUR

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CAMOMILE FLOWER SHAPEP WAGASHI IN A COCKTAIL GLASS Makes 8 INGREDIENTS For the anko: 100 g | ½ cup red beans 180 g | ¾ cup castor sugar For the daifuku: 160 g | 1 cup mochiko (sweet rice flour) 150 g | 2⁄3 cup castor sugar 180 ml water potato flour, or cornflour, for dusting To garnish: 2 tbsp golden marzipan, shredded

TIP: The marzipan can be rolled out, thinly sliced, and gathered into small bundles. It can also be passed through the shredder attachment of a food processor or even a pasta machine to create thin strands.

METHOD 1. Repeat steps 1-15 of previous recipe for the anko and daifuku 2. To garnish: When ready to serve, arrange in cocktail glasses and garnish with shredded marzipan.

Wagashi in the shape of a camomile flower served in a cocktail glass

Recipes courtesy of Stockfood

BADE R & WALTE RS

The B&W range of wines is the ultimate culmination of our winemaker’s creative expression.

Our Shiraz Rosé is a crisp, zesty wine that has a soft coral-coloured hue and invites a taste. Candy floss, strawberry and raspberry flavours on the nose follow through onto the palate. The Shiraz is a medium-bodied, wood-matured red wine. Typical ripe maraschino cherry, plum and white pepper flavours on the nose, while prominent berry flavours follow through onto the palate.

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Panel Report | wine

Pink The best wines to enjoy over lazy days and evenings on the patio

S

By IrIna von Holdt CWM

ummer in South Africa—what a joy! Days of glorious sunshine yielding a bounteous crop of lush fruits and vegetables. We enjoy long purple-hued evenings with family and friends over leisurely meals with a glass (or two!) of chilled wine. Maybe it’s not always so easy to achieve this sense of peace and harmony, but at least we can get the right wine!

‘The glasses wink and glow as they reflect those glorious pinky hues’

RoSé All DAy Visually, it’s the most beautiful tasting— from the palest hint of blush through corals, gentle tangerines and a whole palette of rose through to deep cerise— the glasses wink and glow as they reflect those glorious pinky hues.

But are they just row upon row of pretty pinks? Don’t be taken in by a pretty face is the advice given by generations of anxious mothers to lovestruck sons. So it’s good to know that there is more to some of these than mere seduction in a glass. “yes, well, these fall into two broad categories, either frivolous and pretty—

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wine | Panel Report

Wines TasTed

by The Panel ChArdonnAy

or dry, fruity and more serious,” says Irina with conviction. “And both styles have their good and bad examples.”

“Well, the only ones I like are the ones from Merlot. The variety has found its place, finally!” laughs Clive. A dig once more at ever-disappointing Merlot.

We then get yet again into the low alcohol debate. “The light wines are tasteless and insipid,” says Winnie.

“Indeed. There ought to be a law preventing some of these from being labelled as wine,” grumbles Claude.

Christine points out that 59 out of the 77 wines in the tasting had alcohols below 13%. The result of chasing low alcohol—by picking grapes early—is a lack of good fruit flavour and severely high acids, a sort of lean and gawky, angular wine that gives no joy. Not good.

We then look at the varieties used, apart from the attractive Merlots.

Christine rather likes Pinot Noir and also backs Pinotage. “When they’re young they have that strawberry flavour that is so attractive,” she says.

“Remember those Delheim rosés?”

“I’ve got a big soft spot for the red muscadels that have some sweetness,” says Irina. “They’re so heady and seductive. I also think we underrate them.”

Nic: “I think the Rhône varieties do so much better as blends than as single

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varieties.”

Irina agrees. She finds Shiraz particularly disappointing as rosé.

“Unless it’s herbal,” Christine adds.

Bear in mind that the old colour distinction with Blanc de Noir needing to be paler than rosé no longer applies.

To bring SA into line with international norms, where the palest of pinks (as in France) is called rosé, we now do the same.

Looking at export figures for Blanc de Noir and rosé produces some surprises: France is the world champion for importing SA rosé in bulk—far more than either of our white or red. Now where exactly do they put all of that rather good rosé? And the Netherlands, home of the practical and not so romantic Dutch, import more bottles of SA rosé than red or white. Now that’s a surprise.

There’s obviously much more to our pinks than we thought.

There’s obviously much more to our pinks

Wine-of-the-Month Club: Pulpit Rock Reserve Chardonnay 2015.

Also liked: Bartinney Chardonnay 2015, Lourensford Release Chardonnay 2016, Yardstick Chardonnay 2014, Seven Springs Vineyard Oaked Chardonnay 2015.

Wines listed in AlphAbetiCAl order: Anura Chardonnay 2017, Bayede 7Icon Chardonnay 2015, Constantia Uitsig Reserve Chardonnay 2016, Constantia Unwooded Chardonnay 2016, Glen Carlou Chardonnay 2016, Glen Carlou Unwooded Chardonnay 2017, Ken Forrester Petit Chardonnay 2017, La Motte Chardonnay 2016, Laarman Cluster Series Chardonnay 2016, Mount Rozier Wild Peacock 2017, Nuy Mustery Chardonnay 2016, Saxenburg Private Collection Chardonnay 2016, Seven Springs Vineyard Unoaked Chardonnay 2015, The Winery of Good Hope Chardonnay 2017, Weltevrede Vanilla Chardonnay 2016.

Merlot Wine-of-the-Month Club: Dornier Merlot 2016.

Also liked: Nitida Merlot 2016, Bosman Bo-Vallei Merlot 2016, Weltevrede Cherrychoc Merlot 2017, Rainbow’s End Merlot 2016.

Wines listed in AlphAbetiCAl order: Anura Merlot 2016, Arendskloof Merlot 2015, Bursting Berries Merlot 2016, Landskroon Merlot 2016, Libby’s Pride Merlot 2015, Marklew Family Wines Merlot 2015, Meerlust Merlot 2015, Meinert Merlot 2014, Org de Rac Merlot 2015, Org de Rac Reserve Merlot 2015, Overhex Balance Winemakers Selection Merlot 2016, Saxenburg Private Collection Merlot 2012, Signal Gun Smoke Reserve Merlot 2015, Stellekaya Merlot 2014, Whalehaven Merlot 2013.

Panel Report | wine

Such an improvement UnUsUal White Wines This intriguing category is becoming more and more a discussion of Viognier. “a weightier version of Chenin Blanc,” according to nic. exactly, it has a similarity of flavour and is often blended with Chenin. “such an improvement on the earlier ones, which were often overblown and clumsy,” says irina. “it’s high in acidity and when you go over 14.5% in alcohol it gets peachy and voluptuous. i know, i make it,” says Clive.

Colin sums it up. “The pioneers have all worked it out,” he says, “and now the rest will climb on the bandwagon and it will become boring.”

We then get into a discussion about Riesling.

Christine: “i’ve always liked Riesling and i think it works better with a bit of sugar.”

Wines TasTed

by The Panel CAbernet sAuvignon Wine-of-the-Month Club: Pulpit Rock Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2014.

Also liked: Neil Ellis Jonkershoek Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2014, The High Road Cabernet Sauvignon 2015, Neil Ellis Cabernet Sauvignon 2014, MAN Family Torentoso Cabernet Sauvignon 2015.

Wines listed in AlphAbetiCAl order: Bartinney Cabernet Sauvignon 2013, Bayede The Prince Cabernet Sauvignon 2017, Bushmanspad Cabernet Sauvignon 2016, Dornier Equanimity Cabernet Saucignon 2016, Le Riche Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2013, Lourensford Cabernet Sauvignon 2014, Rietvallei Burger Family Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon 2015, Rietvallei Cabernet Sauvignon 2015, Simonsvlei Premier Cabernet Sauvignon 2015, Simonsvlei Zenzela Cabernet Sauvignon 2015, Thandi Cabernet Sauvignon 2012, The High Road Cabernet Sauvignon 2015, The High Road Cabernet Sauvignon 2016, Vinum Africa Cabernet Sauvignon 2014, Zevenwacht Cabernet Sauvignon 2014.

unusuAl red Wine-of-the-Month Club: Rietvallei JMB Cabernet Franc 2015.

Also liked: Idiom Sangiovese 2014, Stony Brook Ovidius 2015, Fairview La Capra Malbec 2016, Piekenierskloof Grenache 2016.

Wines listed in AlphAbetiCAl order: Anura Grenache 2014, Anura Tempranillo 2014, Backsberg Malbec 2014, DeMorgenzon DMZ Grenache Noir 2015, Haute Cabrière Unwooded Chardonnay 2016, Landskroon Cinsault 2015, Neil Ellis Groenekloof Cinsault 2015, Neil Ellis Piekernierskloof Grenache 2014, Piekenierskloof Cinsault 2016, Radford Dale Thirst Cinsault 2017, Rietvallei “Dark Cin” Cinsault 2016, Seven Springs Pinot Noir 2014, Stark-Condé Stellenbosch Petite Sirah 2015, Sumaridge Pinot Noir 2012, Vrede en Lust Mocholate Malbec 2016. sOUTH AFRICAN CONNOIssEUR

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I’ve always liked Riesling and I think it works better with a bit of sugar Buks: “I think it’s so difficult to make a dry Riesling. They usually have sugar, and I agree, those are better.”

Nic: “Without the slatey minerality they need the sugar.”

Yes, indeed, SA isn’t the Mosel.

Then there are always the Gewürztraminers. Tasting through twenty rare white wines a Gewürz is bound to poke its head up, instantly recognisable with that gorgeous whiff of heady dark red rose (if you’re lucky) or, more often, a plainer garden rose. But always a joy.

What about the Pinot Grigio’s? Well yes, we’ve decided they’re simply light, easy

everyday drinking. But there are fans for this style; it’s a necessary style.

We look at the new-ish Rhône varieties: Roussanne and Grenache Blanc and decide they work better in blends rather than as stand alones.

A very intriguing newcomer is Verdelho, no longer coming from a single producer. A Portuguese variety used for making Madeira, it is now being used for white unfortified wines and showing very well. Watch this one.

As we said, an intriguing category. So take a leap. You’re bound to be surprised.

To purchase these wines and more, head to our website www.wineofthemonth.co.za

Wines TasTed

by The Panel sAuvignon blAnC Wine-of-the-Month Club: La Motte Sauvignon Blanc 2017.

Also liked: Strandveld Sauvignon Blanc 2017, Cape point Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc 2017, Lord’s Wine Sauvignon Blanc 2017, Groote Post Sauvignon Blanc 2017.

Wines listed in AlphAbetiCAl order: Anura Sauvignon Blanc 2017, Eagle’s Cliff Sauvignon Blanc 2017, Hidden Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2016, Klein Constantia Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2015, Klein Constantia KC Sauvignon Blanc 2017, Leopard’s Leap Sauvignon Blanc 2017, Marklew Family Wines Sauvignon Blanc 2017, Meinert Sauvignon Blanc 2017, Mulderbosch Sauvignon Blanc 2017, Org de Rac Sauvignon Blanc 2017, Reyneke Biodynamic Sauvignon Blanc 2017, Saxenburg Private Collection Sauvignon Blanc 2017, Sumaridge Sauvignon Blanc 2017, Weltevrede Tropica Sauvignon Blanc 2017, Whalehaven Sauvignon Blanc 2016.

I once heard a retired naval officer refer to rum as “grog”. Where does this odd name come from? In sailing ship days, the Royal Navy used to issue a daily ration of rum to every sailor. Admiral Edward Vernon realised this was hampering the efficiency of the men, so he ordered that in future the rum should be diluted. Vernon was known for the habit of wearing a coat made from a rough material called grogham. This earned him the nickname of ‘Old Grog’, and sailors named the watereddown rum grog after him.

It seems that South Africa’s economy is shrinking alarmingly. What is happening to the country’s wine industry? Is it shrinking too? It doesn’t appear to be shrinking. Maybe people are buying more wine to drown their economic sorrows. According to official (SAwIS) figures the 2017 harvest was a little more than 1,4 million tonnes in 2017. This was 1,4% higher than the previous harvest. Some of this goes into the brandy industry and some is sold as grape juice, but that still leaves a good crop of wines for us to enjoy. About 80% of the grapes go into wine production.

Your Wine FAQs We AnsWer your Wine relAted Questions

Are South African wines widely exported? Can we recommend wines to friends in other countries?

You can always recommend South African wines. we make good stuff! About 430-million litres of South African wine is exported annually, so there’s plenty out there. South African wines account for about 4 percent of the world’s wine production.

I was recently offered a glass of Colombar wine and enjoyed it very much. Why do we not see many Colombars on our bottle store shelves? Most Colombar juice goes into brandy production, so there’s not much left for table wines. Many wine lovers, however, enjoy the distinctive guava flavour of Colombar. The best Colombars seem to come from the Robertson Valley. Maybe if we talked about the wine more and recommended it to our friends more people would get to know it. It’s always good to add new flavours to your wine palate.

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WINE | Winning Wines

SA’S TOP WINE PICKS

THIS MONTH'S SELECTIONS (TASTED OUT OF 20 WINES)

Our panel’s TOP PICKS this month and a listing of the club selections

Platinum Club • KWV Abraham Perold Tributum 2014 R625.00 • L'Avenir Single Block Pinotage 2016 R370.00 • De Trafford Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 R355.00 • Chamonix Marco Polo 2013 R435.00 • Creation Reserve Chardonnay 2017 R335.00 • Montaudon Rosé Champagne NV R589.00 Reserve Club • Môreson Cabernet Franc 2016 R275.00 • Strydom Rex Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 R304.00 • Spier Creative Block 5 2015 R160.00 • Marklew Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 R239.00 • Mulderbosch Faithful Hound White 2015 & Tin R205.00 • Simonsig Cuvee Royale MCC 2012 R350.00

Mulderbosch Single Vineyard Block A Chenin Blanc 2015 Reserve Club Light in appearance, Block A immediately reveals its flighty citrus aromatic profile on the first nose, and on closer inspection reveals subtle talc notes. With a distinct honeycomb edge, the palate however displays incredible freshness and a bright, lifted character.

Delicate spice, limey acidity and a pithy texture all combine to produce an alluring, lingering finish.

PAIRING: Shellfish, lean fish, mild and soft cheese Dunstone Shiraz 2016 Wine-of-the-Month Club As a Wellington Shiraz, it has big, bold, red fruit flavours with sweet spice from

David Biggs

Margaret Fundira

Winnie Bowman

Colin Collard

the oak. Smooth and juicy palate, well integrated tannins with a long lingering finish. This wine will only get better with age, if you can resist from drinking it now!

PAIRING: Full flavoured meat dishes, lamb shank, oxtail or a nice matured steak.

Roan Ranger 2017 Best Value Club With a play on the word “Rhône”, the name points towards the style of wine – a blend of Cinsaut, Grenache and Mourvèdre. This is a beautifully soft red wine, made from grapes grown in the Darling region. The Withington Roan Ranger is easy drinking, and we suggest you even enjoy it served slightly chilled.

PAIRING: Beef, mature and hard cheese.

Claude Felbert

PJ ‘Buks’ Nel

Christine Rudman

Gregory Mutambe

Wine-of-the-Month Club • Anura Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 R115.00 • Whalehaven Pinotage 2015 R220.00 • Oude Compagnies Shiraz 2016 R159.99 • Rickety Bridge The Foundation Stone Red 2015 R120.00 • Lomond Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2017 R103.00 • Journey's End Haystack Chardonnay 2017 R97.00 • Waterkloof Circle of Life White 2014 R135.00 • Far From The Crowd White 2017 R80.00 • La Capra Bouquet Fair 2016 R66.00 • Orange River Cellars Nouveau 2018 R52.00 • Zandvliet White Muscat 2017 R95.00 • Mooiplaas Duel MCC 2012 R205.00 Best Value Club • Stellenrust Pinotage 2017 R94.00 • Marvelous Red 2014 R89.00 • Thelema Sutherland Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 R115.00 • MAN Family Shiraz 2016 R80.00 • False Bay Slow Chenin Blanc 2017 R69.00 • Celestina Sauvignon Blanc Sémillon 2016 R92.00 • Far From The Crowd White 2017 R80.00 • Niel Joubert 'Oom Piet' Chardonnay 2017 R83.00 • Arra Natural Sweet Viognier 2013 R75.00 • Villiera Jasmine 2017 R59.00 • Orange River Cellars Nouveau 2018 R52.00 • Hoopenburg Integer MCC 2016 R115.00

Clive Torr

Irina von Holdt

To purchase these wines and more, call us on 021 492 4100 or email us at info@wineofthemonth.co.za.

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Tinashe Nyamudoka

Nick Le Roux

Plonque de Casa

S

ome years ago a group of eminent American winemakers were invited on a fact-finding tour of the Cape’s wine industry.

Obviously they were feted and wined and dined royally and offered nothing but the best we could produce. At one very formal dinner one of the guests sipped his five-star Cabernet Sauvignon and then casually added a teaspoon of sugar and stirred it. There were gasps of horror from some of the local wine elite and eyes were rolled ceiling-wards.

The American realised his action was causing some surprise so he said, “What’s the matter? If I add sugar to my coffee, it doesn’t mean I think the coffee is bad. It’s just the way I like it.”

This was the subject of many debates long after the Americans had left. Some traditionalists insisted that putting sugar

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in your wine was just ‘not done’. It was barbaric, they muttered. Others of a more liberal turn of mind said, “Why not? Once you’ve bought the wine it’s yours and you’re entitled to do what you like with it. Pour it over your cornflakes or use it as shampoo if that tickles your fancy.” I once visited a well-known winemaker in the Somerset West area and was offered a glass of wine as we sat chatting on his stoep. “This is nice,” I said. “What is it?”

“My house blend,” he said. Later he confessed that he just poured all his wine leftovers into a bottle for himself and adjusted the flavour as he felt necessary.

If it needed sugar he’d add a splash of Hanepoot. If it was too bland he might add some young, acidic Sauvignon Blanc to perk it up. Red and white went in together. I found it very pleasant and

sometimes do the same for myself. After a party there are usually a few bottles left with just a splash in the bottom. I decant them, taste and adjust if necessary.

A dollop of cranberry juice can rescue even the harshest tannic Merlot. Usually it’s just for my own consumption but occasionally I have offered a glass to an unexpected visitor and even received compliments. “This is good. What is it?”

“Plonque de Casa, non-vintage,” I say. I sometimes wonder whether we wine lovers are not just a little too precious about our wines. It’s all very well to discuss soil types, malolactic fermentation and lees contact at a formal wine tasting, but when we’re simply enjoying a sociable moment with a couple of friends shouldn’t we just do as the beer drinkers do—shut up and enjoy it.

Illustration by: Chloé Damstra

David Biggs on a different kind of house wine

Not for Sale to Persons Under the Age of 18.