SA Connoisseur - Issue 277, Sept/Oct 2019

VOL 277

o l l e H

Why Wine Requires a

Ritual

HIGHLAND PARK WHISKY

YOUR NEXT WINELANDS ESCAPE

LOCAL IS LEKKER: 3 HERITAGE DAY RECIPES

Spring’s TOP WINE Events

GENERATIONS GENERATIONS OF WINEMAKING OF WINEMAKING EXCELLENCE EXCELLENCE A full flavoured Dry Rosé made by the traditional Methodé Cap Classique. Meticulous blending by our experienced winemaker creates an elegant and classy Rosé with a youthful berry fragrance and striking finesse on the palate.

PLEAS E ENJOY RESPONSIBLY SIMONSIG WINE ESTATE, KROMME RHEE ROAD, KOELENHOF, 7605 | PHONE: 021 888 4900

SimonsigWines

Simonsig_Wines

SimonsigWines

SOUTH AFRICAN

CONNOISSEUR www.wineofthemonth.co.za

EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Colin Collard ART DIRECTOR Taryn Breetzke DESIGNER Chloe Damstra WINE BUYER/PUBLISHER Natalie Collard WINE TASTINGS/ ASSISTANT TO BUYER/ ADMINISTRATOR Dean Townsend REGULAR CONTRIBUTORS Articles—David Biggs & Irina von Holdt OTHER CONTRIBUTORS Lorraine Lines (Consultant)

HAVE A QUESTION? HERE’S HOW TO CONTACT US:

• Advertising call on 021 492 4102 or email natalie@wineofthemonth.co.za.

• Wine delivery or wine orders call 021 492 4100, fax 086 674 3966, or email info@wineofthemonth.co.za.

• Write to the Editor: Email us on cheers@wineofthemonth.co.za or write to The Chairman, Connoisseur, P.O. Box 30, Constantia 7848. Send press releases via email to cheers@wineofthemonth.co.za. All contributions are edited for space and style.

THE TASTING ROOM

FIND US:

Monday to Sunday 9am - 5pm

Facebook: @wineofthemonthsa Twitter: @WotMSA Instagram: @wineofthemonth

Join the iconic Dornier wine cellar and tasting

TERMS AND CONDITIONS FOR COMPETITIONS: The winners will be the first correct entries drawn after the closing date. The judges’ decision is final and no correspondence will be entered into. The prize is not transferable and may not be converted into cash. If the winner has not responded to our announcement, via their contact details provided, within three months of the competition’s closing date, Connoisseur will send the prize to the next available winner. Employees of Converge (Pty) Ltd, Connoisseur, their families, their agencies, Connoisseur contributors, and any other parties associated with the competition may not enter. Entrants to regular competitions may only win once. SMS entries cost R1.00 each. Competitions are for South African residents only.

room every day from 9am-5pm, and experience Dornier’s award-winning wines where you can taste six wines for just R60pp. Cheese platters are available Wednesday to Sunday, and if you’re in the mood for a bit of exploring, book an appointment for their cellar tour for R50pp.

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South African Connoisseur is published every alternate month by Converge (Pty) Ltd, Capricorn Boulevard South, Capricorn Business Park, Muizenberg, Cape Town, 7945. © Copyright 2018. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. Liability. While every care is taken in the preparation of this magazine, the publishers cannot be held responsible for the accuracy of the information herein, or any consequence arising from it. The views and opinions expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of Converge (Pty) Ltd, the publication or the publisher.

www.dornier.co.za | Blaauwklippen Road, Stellenbosch | 021 880 0557

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06 10 24 CONTENTS 05 WHAT’S ON—EVENTS IN AND AROUND SA 06 WINE & DINE—WHAT’S NEW IN FOOD AND DRINK 10 YOUR NEXT WINELANDS ESCAPE 13 THE TOKARA EXPERIENCE 14 THE DRIFT’S HEADSTART TRUST 15 A VISIT TO STELLEKAYA’S TASTING ROOM 18 LOCAL IS LEKKER: THREE HERITAGE DAY RECIPES

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NEIL ELLIS CELEBRATES 35 YEARS THIS MONTH’S WINNING WINES YOUR WINE QUESTIONS ANSWERED IRINA VON HOLDT REPORTS ON THE LATEST PANEL TASTINGS CONNOISSEUR’S CHOICE—A SELECTION OF TOP WINES TO TRY DAVID BIGGS ON THE SPIRITUAL SIDE OF WINE

ON THE COVER Highland Park presents the VALKYRIE Special Edition single malt on p.08 SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

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Try these Tennis Biscuit Ice Cream Sandwiches on p.18

Sounds of Spring

Turn to p.10 for our top weekend getaways in the winelands

In my neck of the woods springtime is filled with welcome sounds. The distant buzz of lawn mowers. The chirping of sunbirds and white-eyes. The clunk of Weber lids opening and closing.

The sounds mean only one thing. Spring is here. Time to get out of the house and into the sunshine…

To start, on p.18 there’s a trio of lip-smackingly good RECIPES for both outside and inside entertaining. They are indulgent dishes that put a wicked new spin on some favourite South African flavours. How about this—Banana Bread and Biltong?

As the weather warms up, so too does SA’s event calendar.

On p.05 we earmark some fun OUTDOOR FESTIVALS AND EVENTS from around the country.

From festivals to WEEKEND ESCAPES. On p.10 we list some top getaway spots in both the Stellenbosch and Francshhoek winelands. Best you get your fluffy robe and slippers ready.

From robes to wines, our panel takes a closer look at two wine categories that are undergoing restyling. Upgrading or downgrading? You decide, as Irina von Holdt tells all about some of the new CHENINS AND SHIRAZES. Lastly, DAVID BIGGS takes a sage and sanguine look at the spiritual side of wine. Turn to the back page, where Dave unravels some divine findings through the ages.

Not forgetting, of course, all the pages that bring you valuable information on the best and latest wines.

Happy Spring!

CHAIRMAN OF WINE-OF-THE-MONTH CLUB

SA’s spring festivals and events p.05

F R A N S C H H O E K U N C O R K E D F E S T I VA L , 14 & 15 SEPTEMBER Get your glasses ready as wineries in and around Franschhoek welcome spring by showcasing their latest vintages. With most of the Franschhoek wineries participating in this fun two-day festival, there promises to be something for everyone including cellar and vineyard tours, barrel tastings, food and wine pairings as well as old-school lawn games, to name a few.

Pre-book your weekend pass through www.webtickets.co.za

CHOCOLATE FESTIVAL, 31 AUGUST & 1 SEPTEMBER Chocolate lover, come hither. Mark your calendar for the annual CHOCOLATE FESTIVAL in the Stellenbosch winelands. Taste your way through chocolate fountains, artisanal chocolatiers, bakers and sweet-makers as you pick and choose your favourite favourites. Fancy something savoury? There’s also gourmet burgers and charcuterie platters, oh, and gin, bubbly, wine and beer to wash it all down. Plus a kiddies’ entertainment area and a live band. Tickets at www.webtickets.co.za

WHAT’S ON Festivals and Events Around SA

STRAWBERRY FESTIVAL, 21-22 SEPTEMBER Love strawberries? Then best you head to Redberry Farm in George for their annual STRAWBERRY FESTIVAL. Set against the beautiful Outeniqua Mountains, there’s no better view while you enjoy the best this berry has to offer. The fun-filled family event offers guests food and craft stalls, trail runs, live music, beer and wine tastings, an outdoor kids park, pony rides, go-karting and lots, lots more. Tickets cost R55pp. www.strawberryfestival.co.za

Receive one FREE ticket per family. Scan the QR code to download your complimentary ticket.

Valid until 20 September for SA Connoisseur readers.

T H E H E R M A N U S W I N E & F O O D FA I R , 28 & 29 SEPTEMBER Nominated as one of the ten best wine festivals in South Africa, The HERMANUS WINE & FOOD FAIR brings together local wineries from Elgin to Elim, where they present their wines for tasting. Not forgetting delicious gourmet foods with the areas best cheeses, olives and breads, plus sushi from Harbour Rock.

Experience the best this picturesque seaside town has to offer, and then take it all home with you too. www.hermanuswinetours.com SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

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SUNDAYS ARE FOR LUNCHING

“I want SALSIFY’S SUNDAYS to be a call to gather, to laugh, to enjoy! It’s about celebrating friends, family, food and unity,” says Salsify’s head Chef Ryan Cole. Salsify’s Sunday Lunch offers a five-course menu (with or without a wine pairing) featuring starters such as Fire-Roasted Pumpkin Bread, Beef Tartar and a Salsify fish braai. Mains sound something like: Roast Baby Chicken with Bread Sauce Dumplings, and Beef Fillet with Onion Tarte Tatin and Roast Carrot. For dessert there’s decadent Dark Chocolate Soufflé and Passion Fruit Swiss Roll. The Salsify Sunday menu launches on Sunday the 25th of August and is priced at R695pp for the lunch with an additional R550 for wine pairing. Better book soon. www.salsify.co.za

WINE & DINE What’s New in Food and Wine

There’s a New Chef in Town

Ten years on, Delaire Graff Estate has started a new chapter with the newly appointed HEAD CHEF KEVIN GROBLER. Grobler is excited to be back on home ground after three years as head chef of the Michelin-starred JAN Restaurant in Nice, France. Born in Bloem, Grobler worked under some of the finest chefs in the Cape at places such as Terroir, Cavalli and Delaire Graff Restaurant, before heading to Europe. Grobler has now come full circle by returning to Delaire Graff Estate, having earned his stripes under previous head chefs Christiaan Campbell and Michael Deg, who remain his highly respected mentors.

‘Our food is very local, earthy and real. It’s about allowing the purity of flavour, local provenance and sheer beauty of the ingredients to shine,’ says Grobler. Following a nose-to-tail, root-to-leaf philosophy to reduce waste is something that Grobler feels strongly about too.

Kevin, save us a seat?

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Kevin Grobler photos by Delairie Graff

SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

2019/08/23 9:55 AM

Haute Cabrière’s New Range of Small-Batch Wines

One of Franschhoek’s finest, Haute Cabrière introduces THE HAUTE COLLECTION. Specifically site-driven, these three 2017 wines represent the very best in no-holds barred winemaking.

The 2017 Collection includes a barrel-fermented Chardonnay with a component fermented in amphorae, a Pinot Noir and a 100 per cent amphora Chardonnay. Like all of their wines, this collection has been designed to be enjoyed with food, and ties into the von Arnim family’s love for the art of food and wine pairing. The wines retail at R249 for the whites and R289 for the Pinot Noir. The collection is available from the cellar door and online.

‘With this range I truly want to express terroir,’ explains second generation Cellar Master Takuan von Arnim

THE PEECH’S NEW SQUEEZE Joburg foodies can look forward to September when The Peech Boutique Hotel opens its new dining experience, BASALT. The new spot has appointed Frederico Dias (fondly known as Freddie) as their Head Chef. Freddie is well known for his years at the Pot Luck Club under Luke Dale Roberts. A Fair Trade accredited hotel, the upgrade of this chic eco offering is the latest step in The Peech’s evolution. The urban hotel (awarded Best City Boutique Hotel in Africa) has made a number of recent enhancements with Basalt as a completely new offering that provides a stylish dining experience for both hotel guests and the city’s gourmet groupies. Still hush-hush, Freddie doesn’t want to give too much away, but describes the menu as ‘contemporary global cuisine.’ Sounds peachy. For more information visit www.thepeech.co.za.

Build Your Brand

Want to raise the digital visibility of your wine or food brand without having to spend a cent? Sounds too good to be true, don't you think? Well, according to Judith Lewis (who has consulted global companies such as Google, NBC and Virgin) it is possible. If you’d like to learn how you can do this, join Judith as the keynote speaker at this year’s WINE & FOOD TOURISM CONFERENCE at Spier on the 18th of September. “My goal is for people to leave my Stellenbosch presentation with a comprehensive checklist of digital things they can do right away,” says Judith. Plus, Miss Lewis will show brands how quickly and simply they can access their target audiences and improve how, what and when they communicate across multiple platforms, simply by using free and readily available tools at their disposal. Sign us up! Tickets cost R3800 (plus VAT). Go to www.wineandfood.co.za for more information.

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Celebrated South African Chef Bertus Basson will also be speaking at this year’s conference

Alphen’s Supper Club

On the last Thursday of every month, Alphen’s Blanko will host a SUPPER CLUB where guests can enjoy a selection of Chef Amber May’s signature dishes paired with a series of fine wines and Champagne. Enjoy a 3-course dinner priced at R395pp and maybe stay the night while you’re at it?

HERE’S A LIST OF BLANKO’S UPCOMING SUPPER CLUBS: (18:30 FOR 19:00) 29 Aug 2019 – Klein Constantia 26 Sept2019 – Ken Forrester Wines 24 Oct 2019 – Villiera Wines28 Nov 2019 – Veuve Clicquot SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

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WINELANDS | ACCOMMODATION

A WINELANDS

getaway 1. A RIVER RUNS THROUGH IT

A true Stellenbosch gem, MOLENVLIET OOSTHUIZEN FAMILY VINEYARDS has four

double cottages, each with all-in creature comforts and in-room facilities. The cottages have private balconies that overlook the farm’s beautiful forest-like gardens.

Molenvliet is situated along the banks of the Banghoek River and everywhere you look are mountains and vineyards. www.molenvliet.co.za info@molenvliet.co.za 079 836 6127

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SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

Looking for a LUXURIOUS SPRINGTIME ESCAPE? Here are some of our favourite wine farm getaways in and around Stellenbosch and Franschhoek

2. A DIP WITH A VIEW

THE DELAIRE GRAFF LODGES are the ultimate (and we mean ultimate) in luxury.

They offer a five-star soul-soothing experience. Enjoy light, open spaces specially created in which to relax and unwind. The lodges are nestled between mountains and overlook the vineyards. Each lodge has its own private sundeck along with a heated plunge pool from which to enjoy the views. www.delaire.co.za info@delaire.co.za 021 885 8160

ACCOMMODATION | WINELANDS

3. FALL ASLEEP IN A SILO Situated just 12km outside of Stellenbosch, beneath the Simonsberg Mountain slopes, are the THE SIMONSBERG SILOS. These beautifully restored loft-style silos are stylishly kitted out with everything you need for a self-catering break and are on the historical wine farm known as Natte Valleij. www.simonsbergsilo.com info@simonsbergsilo.com 081 033 0684

4. AN AUTHENTIC FARM STAY Babylonstoren has transformed existing old farm buildings into some seriously sophisticated guest accommodation. Set adjacent to a 3,5 hectare fruit and vegetable garden, the BABYLONSTOREN COTTAGES have thick whitewashed walls, pretty-looking gables and built in fireplaces—all of which contribute to an authentic farm stay experience. Not sure if a rooster wake up call is included… www.babylonstoren.com enquiries@babylonstoren.com 021 863 3852

5. THE ALL-NEW LANZERAC Just a quick five-minute drive from Stellenbosch town itself is THE HOTEL at Lanzerac, a luxurious getaway newly refurbished after being damaged in a recent fire. It blends old-world charm with modern amenities. Relax and unwind while you enjoy the tranquil surroundings of the Jonkershoek Valley. www.lanzerac.co.za info@lanzerac.co.za 021 887 1132 SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

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WINELANDS | ACCOMMODATION

6. ESCAPE THE EVERYDAY RUSH Curl up with a good book in cosy LE JARDIN in Stellenbosch. Enjoy rolling lawns, shade from 100 year-old trees and a garden that invites you for a little wander or two. The villa is specially designed for family QT, tucked away in the heart of the picturesque Devon Valley wine region. www.lejardin.co.za enquiries@wonderlandvillas.com 076 198 0234

7. ABOVE THE TREES Escape the busy city life and head to the tranquil Bush Lodge at HIDDEN VALLEY WINES. Opulent and private, this self-catering, three-bedroom lodge is situated on the slopes of the Helderberg Mountain in secluded Stellenbosch. It’s a bucket list-worthy spot with a dreamy wooden lodge which ‘floats’ above the olive trees—cleverly built so as to not disturb the idyllic natural surroundings. www.hiddenvalleywines.co.za info@hiddenvalleywines.co.za 021 880 2646

8. IT’S ROBE TIME LEEU ESTATES in Franschhoek offers

various blissful accommodation options with a spa, a gym, a curated art collection and immaculately landscaped gardens. The spacious rooms and suites are individually styled and all feature bespoke furniture, wool-and-sisal carpets, textured layers of linen, leather, wood and stone that create a calm and soothing colour palette. Plus, there’s more than enough space to saunter around in their generous marble-clad en-suite bathrooms in your robe before enjoying a rain shower. www.leeucollection.com reservations@leeucollection.com 021 492 2222

9. MR BRANSON’S ABODE Just a little wander from the main hotel building, and a stone’s throw from the Mont Rochelle’s winery, you’ll find the MANOR HOUSE and the newest addition to Sir Richard Branson’s Mont Rochelle. This beautiful four-bedroom villa can be booked for exclusive use and is ideal for families or small groups looking for an escape to the winelands. www.virginlimitededition.com/en/mont-rochelle enquiries@virginlimitededition.co.za 021 876 2770 1 2

SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

The Tokara E xper ience

At the foot of the Simonsberg Mountain—just outside of Stellenbosch— you’ll find the beautiful Tokara wine estate. With so many wonderful attractions, Tokara has a number of offerings for visitors to enjoy.

Charming and kiddie-friendly, the Tokara Delicatessen is open from 9am-5pm and makes for a breathtaking setting for a delicious breakfast or light lunch. The Delicatessen also has a range of produce for sale such as olive oils, homemade chocolates, local cheeses and artisanal coffees.

After you’ve finished breakfast, browse through the gift shop that’s full of gifts and keepsakes, before taking a gentle wander through to the art gallery and sculpture garden.

Adjacent to their Delicatessen, you’ll find Tokara’s boutique-style olive oil production plant. Pop in to enjoy a complimentary tutored tasting of their range of award-winning extra virgin, cold-pressed olive oils.

Next, make your way through the olive orchards towards the winery, where you can enjoy a variety of specialised wine tastings. Along with the estate wines, you can also enjoy MCC, Ten Year Old Potsill Brandy and even an old vintage of the Director’s Reserve Red on the deck, while enjoying the sweeping views of Table Mountain, False Bay and Stellenbosch.

Lastly, a trip to Tokara isn’t complete without a visit to the world-class Tokara Restaurant. Open for both lunch and dinner, Chef Carolize Coetzee artfully infuses farm-style food into flavoursome seasonal dishes. Utilising glass, steel and stone, and situated 400 meters above sea level, means Tokara Restaurant just might be the best seat in the house.

YOU CA N F IND U S ON HE L S HOOGT E R OAD, S T E L L E N B O S C H , 7600, S O U TH A FR I C A F O R MO RE INF O C ONTAC T | W INE @T OK AR A.C OM | +27 ( 0) 21 808 5900 | W W W. TO K A R A . C O M

T h e Power of

POSSIBILITY We chat to Dr WP van Zyl about Napier’s inspirational HeadStart Trust

Tell us about the HeadStart Trust?

Initiated by Bruce Jack of Bruce Jack Wines, The HeadStart Trust is about uplifting school children in poor rural areas through music education. Along with donors, a portion of the sales of Bruce’s Moveable Feast wine goes towards funding the Trust’s initiatives.

What made you choose to support rural areas? Our rural area, Napier and particularly in the Western Cape, are very short of positive stories. They lack government support, are underresourced, fractured and suffering.

Incubators for hope and happiness are pitifully few and far between. It is our responsibility to do what we can to contribute to our community.

What made you choose music?

Easy access to methamphetamine, marijuana and alcohol offers an escape to the drudgery and hopelessness many kids feel when faced with poverty. Music gives these children the opportunity to access the potential they are capable of.

And, despite the poverty, with music education we have seen that miracles are in fact possible.

Can you tell us more about these miracles? There are amazing ‘possibility creators’ working for good in our rural communities. Our local school staff members, residents and a few strong churches remain positive and determined that the community will flourish. Our school vegetable garden is one such example, started three years ago it now provides healthy, organic food for school lunches.

And the music side of things? The HeadStart Trust employs two music teachers who teach at Protea Primary School. Two pupils in particular have excelled, the first is an 11-year-old pupil who could hardly spell her own name before she started, today this talented young girl is thriving in her music lessons. Another, who was a drug abuser, is showing remarkable U-turn behaviour and never misses a music lesson.

Where did the inspiration for the Trust come from? Bruce’s late mother, Elspeth, had a dream to establish a music academy in the Napier region. Elspeth and her mother Elsie Fraser-Munn were both much-loved music teachers and supported the overwhelming research that shows the positive impact learning music has on concentration, self-worth and general wellbeing of young pupils.

What other positive impacts are there? We know that teaching music allows young pupils to focus better, behave constructively, contribute positively and, most importantly, value themselves. Music brings hope to the community. Teachers are also noticing how music lessons are contributing to

reading, mathematics, attendance and general learning.

What does the future hold? We are starting with the first Academy in Napier. However, our mission doesn’t stop there.

We aim to establish 10 selfsustaining music academies in other poor rural communities over the next 20 years, along with growing organic vegetable gardens at primary schools. The Jacks are farmers after all.

How can people help?

Enjoy a bottle of Bruce Jack’s Moveable Feast wine and know that you have helped to contribute to our HeadStart projects. To donate your time, skills, old instruments or funds please contact headstart@ brucejack.com.

VISIT STELLEKAYA Winery and Tasting Room

While you’ll find the Stellekaya vineyards high up on the beautiful Stellenbosch mountains, their winery and tasting room is situated right in the heart of Stellenbosch town itself.

Originally an old brandy distillery, the unique space has since been lovingly converted into Stellekaya’s boutique red wine cellar—with its extra thick walls making an ideal space for barrel maturation.

A boutique producer of premium red wines, Stellekaya creates wines with heart that typify the Stellenbosch terroir. “Our wine journey is very much about the journey, the people we work with and meet along the way and producing premium red wines,” says owner Jane Lello.

Stellekaya’s portfolio of red wine includes: Stellekaya Cabernet, Stellekaya Merlot, Stellekaya Hercules (which is a Sangiovese blend), Stellekaya Malbec and their Bordeauxstyle blend Stellekaya Orion.

Come and enjoy a tasting of these fine red wines—and meet the warm, talented people behind this boutique award-winning brand. Stellekaya Winery and Tasting Room is open Wednesday through to Saturday from 11am-4pm.

STELLEKAYA TASTINGS Wednesday to Saturday, call to make an appointment on 021 883 3873 or 060 993 4926 or email info@stellekaya.com.

Cost per tasting is R120 for a flight of 4 Stellekaya reds. If you purchase 6 bottles or more, tasting price is waivered.

On reservation, you can book for a Ploughman’s Platter, minimum 4 persons at R290pp including wine tasting.

Top 3 Limited RELEASES Stellekaya also invites you to buy the brand’s recently launched limited release wines which include, Cabernet Sauvignon 2014, Orion 2012 Reserve and Orion 2014. Each of these wonderful wines has been created to bring wine-lovers something special that stays true to the family brand’s core values.

WHALEHAVEN

CLASSIC RANGE CABERNET FRANC 2014 Deep red rose in colour with aromas of fruits of the forest and lavender. Intriguing flavours of dark plums, dried apricots and raisins. An exceptional Cabernet Franc which is soft, round and well balanced.

R43, HEMEL-EN-AARDE ROAD | HERMANUS MONDAY–FRIDAY 9:00 TO 17:00 SATURDAY & SUNDAY 10:00 – 16:00 BOOKINGS 028 316 1633 OR EXPERIENCE@ WHALEHAVEN.CO.ZA WWW.WHALEHAVEN.CO.ZA

IDIOM CAPE BLEND 2015 Pinotage, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz A velvety opulent wine made with the Cape’s own grape Pinotage blended with noble varieties. Rich and intriguing aromas and flavours with exploding layers of red fruits with notes of hazelnut, dark chocolate and oatmeal.

Soft tannins, dark red fruit and a long finish are hallmarks of this wine.

DA CAPO VINEYARDS, SIR LOWRY’S PASS | SOMERSET WEST TASTING CENTRE 021 858 1088 TUESDAY-SUNDAY 10:00 TO 16:30.

RESTAURANT 021 858 1088 TUESDAY-SUNDAY 11:30 TO 16:00.

BOOKINGS 021 858 1088 OR RESERVATIONS@ IDIOM.CO.ZA WWW.IDIOM.CO.ZA

Local is LEKKER South African recipes have a long tradition. These dishes, usually served on National Heritage Day (September 24), have been given a modern twist and new flair

The sweetness of condensed milk and a full-flavoured punch of moerkoffie evoke memories of “spookstories” around the campfire. Here, these flavours come together in a cool, creamy, summer treat

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SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

This dish works really well with a Late Harvest like Bergsig Weisser Riesling 2019 (Price R109)

Banana bread with biltong butter makes for a modern marriage of two classics

MOERKOFFIE AND CONDENSED MILK ICE-CREAM SANDWICHES WITH TENNIS BISCUITS Serves 6 INGREDIENTS: For the Moerkoffie Ice Cream: 1 x 385g tin condensed milk 500ml (2 cups) fresh cream 500ml (2 cups) moerkoffie blend 5ml (1 tsp) vanilla essence For the Ice-Cream Sandwiches: 1 packet Bakers Tennis Biscuits 1 x 375g tin condensed milk, to serve METHOD: 1. For the ice cream, make the moerkoffie in a stove-top (or braaitop) metal espresso pot (moka pot). Use good quality coffee. Remove from heat and allow the coffee to cool to room temperature. In a large bowl, combine the moerkoffie and remaining ingredients.

Churn in an ice-cream maker for about 30 min. Alternatively, if an ice-cream maker is not available, place the mixture in a freezerproof bowl and freeze for about 2 hours.

Just before frozen (it will be thick but still pourable), whisk with electric beater until smooth and fluffy. Return to the freezer until completely frozen for about 3 hours. Transfer the ice-cream mixture to a loaf tin lined with baking paper. Place the loaf tin in the freezer, 6 hours or overnight.

2. To assemble the ice-cream sandwiches, remove the ice cream from the freezer and set aside for about 5 min. Unmould the ice cream by pulling on the baking paper – or quickly dip the sides of the dish into warm water. Peel off the baking paper and cut the ice cream to the size of the Tennis Biscuits (use the biscuits to trace a cutting guide).

Place each ice-cream square between two Tennis Biscuits to make a sandwich. Repeat these steps with the remaining ice cream.

Place the sandwiches on a tray and return to the freezer.

BANANA BREAD WITH BILTONG BUTTER Serves 8 INGREDIENTS: For the Banana Bread: 4 large, ripe bananas 100g butter, melted 45ml (3 tbsp) sugar 2 eggs, beaten 5ml (1 tsp) vanilla essence 230g cake flour pinch salt 5ml (1 tsp) baking powder For the Biltong Butter: 250g butter 100g biltong, finely chopped

METHOD: 1. For the banana bread, preheat the oven to 180ËšC and grease a loaf tin. Mash the bananas using a fork. Combine the melted butter with the sugar, eggs and vanilla essence. Sieve the flour, salt and baking powder and add to the egg mixture. Mix to combine. Pour the mixture into the greased loaf tin and place in the oven, 30-40 min, until the loaf is golden brown.

Remove from oven and set aside.

2. For the butter, in a small bowl, soften the butter and mix in the sliced biltong.

3. Spread the biltong butter generously over the freshly baked, warm banana bread and serve, butter melting into the bread.

Enjoy this dish alongside a nice, crisp white such as the Goedverwacht Great Expectations Colombar 2019 (Price R85)

3. Serve with condensed milk straight from the tin for authenticity.

SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

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This Marmite sauce is rather versatile and can be used on a variety of dishes

LAMB CHOPS WITH MARMITE SAUCE, BABY POTATOES AND GREEN BEANS Serves 8 INGREDIENTS: For the Baby Potatoes: 500g baby potatoes 30ml (2 tbsp) butter 5ml (1 tsp) salt For the Green Beans: 350g fine green beans 5ml (1 tsp) salt 15ml (1 tbsp) butter For the Lamb Chops: 8 (600g) lamb chops 350g frozen raspberries 15ml (1 tbsp) olive oil salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste For the Marmite Sauce: 250ml (1 cup) fresh cream 15ml (1 tbsp) cornflour 15ml (1 tbsp) Marmite freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Recipes courtesy of Stockfood

METHOD: 1. For the baby potatoes, cover them with water in a lidded pot and boil until soft. Drain and crush the potatoes, before tossing them in butter and salt.

2. For the green beans, blanch them in salted water, drain and rinse with cold water (this preserves their bright green colour). Stir in the butter.

3. For the lamb chops, heat a large, heavy frying pan over medium-high heat until very hot for about 3 min. Add the chops, without crowding them in the pan. Sear (fat side down first) until golden brown, then on their sides (without moving them) until golden brown, 2 min per side.

Season to taste, turn and sear for a further 2 min.

They should be browned on both sides. Transfer the chops to a rack set over a plate and allow to rest uncovered for about 30 min.

4. For the Marmite sauce, mix a little cream with the cornflour to form a paste. Heat the remaining cream in a saucepan over low heat and stir in the paste until the mixture thickens. Remove from heat, stir in the Marmite and season to taste.

5. Serve the chops in one dish and the veggies in another with the sauce on the side.

Serve this up side by side with a bold red such as Thelema Sutherland Syrah 2015 (Price R149) 2 0

SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

Ce le brates 35 Year s This year marks Neil Ellis Wines 35th anniversary since the first vintage of his namesake label In 1984 Neil Ellis sourced grapes from the Banghoek and Figrove area in Stellenbosch to create their first Cabernet Sauvignon. This was no easy task due to the restrictive quota system prevalent at the time, the regulations restricted grapes from crossing district borders, and this also meant wine cellars were considered reflective of origin rather than the vineyard.

A total of 437 cases were produced, and when it was released in 1986 the wine retailed for around R7 per bottle.

With this quality wine Neil wanted to best express a particular style of wine reflective of its environment. The goal was to identify the individual vineyards on the wine label themselves, however, at the time, legislation prevented this.

By 1990, wine appellation regulations

had changed and Neil launched the first certified Elgin Sauvignon Blanc of the same vintage from a vineyard planted in 1981 on the Whitehall property. Shortly after, the Groenekloof Sauvignon Blanc from Darling also made its debut. The vineyard selection soon grew into a range of wines sourced from the four primary sites of Stellenbosch, Elgin, Groenekloof and Piekenierskloof.

“The celebration of 35 vintages is to me as much about looking back, mindful about the journey that has brought us here, as it is about embracing technology and science in the future of winemaking. We will not be able to succeed and stay ahead of our game if we don’t acknowledge and

respect the stories that brought us here today,” says Neil.

Neil’s son, Warren, has since taken over as chief winemaker and has taken on the quest of exploring and identifying new sites for winemaking.

“To make a site-specific style of wine you need to be specific about the site,” says Warren. “The vineyard should dictate the style of wine, not the winemaker.” The story of site-selected wines continuous as Warren spends the majority of his time researching and exploring new sites, gaining valuable information and experience.

Web: www.neilellis.com Contact: 021 887 0649 Email: info@neilellis.com Address: R310 Helshoogte Road, Stellenbosch

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2019/08/22 11:25 AM

SA’S TOP WINE PICKS

WINEMAKER PROFILE | Q&A

THIS MONTH'S SELECTIONS (TASTED OUT OF 20 WINES)

Platinum Club • Welgegund Grenache Noir 2017 R350,00 • Delaire Graff Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2017 R685,00 • Bruce Jack Reserve Clean Slate Single Vineyard Shiraz 2015 R665,00 • Neil Ellis Bottelary Pinotage 2017 R329,00 • Ken Forrester FMC Chenin Blanc 2018 R545,00 • Cape of Good Hope Riebeeksrivier Caroline 2015 R265,00 Reserve Club • Neil Ellis Bottelary Pinotage 2017 R329,00 • Anura Reserve Malbec 2017 R215,00 • Moveable Feast 2015 R319,00 • Lomond Belladonna SMV 2017 R285,00 • Highlands Road Chardonnay 2017 R239,00 • Painted Wolf Lycaon Chenin Blanc 2018 R249,00

Our panel’s TOP PICKS this month and a listing of the club selections

Moveable Feast 2015 Reserve Club On the nose the wine shows ripe, black berry fruit and herbaciousness, with white pepper and a touch of cigar box. On the palate the dominant ripe fruit shows a more elegant red spectrum with cherry, raspberries and plum standing above an under-layer of enticing dark chocolate and darker black fruits.

PAIRING: Try braaied Kudu venison with a wild mushroom sauce, or oven-baked aubergine, garlic and parsnip medley.

This wine shows complex aromas of ripe yellow apple, fresh citrus, butterscotch and crème brûlée. Subtle vanilla oak spice is

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Margaret Fundira

Winnie Bowman

Colin Collard

these S O U T H A F R I C To A Npurchase CONNO I S S Ewines UR

Rascallion Impress Rouge 2018 Best Value Club Juicy ripe plum and black cherries on the palate with aromas of spice and freshly cracked black pepper to the fore. Medium-tofull-bodied with a refreshing, fruity aftertaste.

PAIRING: Try with BBQ-marinated pork ribs, beef and vegetable skewers or T-bone steaks.

Steenberg Sphynx Chardonnay 2018 Wine-of-the-Month Club

David Biggs

carried through from the nose to the palate where it meets flavours of pear and dried apple. It is complemented by a silky, elegant structure, which in turn is tempered by a clean acidity and chalky minerality.

PAIRING: Fennel and sumac crusted salmon trout is the perfect partner for this wine. Also pairs wonderfully with creamy pasta, pork belly or pork chops.

Claude Felbert

PJ ‘Buks’ Nel

Christine Rudman

Gregory Mutambe

Wine-of-the-Month Club • Stellekaya Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 R169,00 • Landskroon Paul de Villiers Reserve 2017 R159,00 • Thelema Sutherland Syrah 2015 R149,00 • Whalehaven Cabernet Franc 2012 R169,00 • Kumusha Sauvignon Blanc 2018 R115,00 • Lanzerac Chenin Blanc 2018 R115,00 • Steenberg Sphynx Chardonnay 2018 R155,00 • Allée Bleue Isabeau 2015 R129,00 • De Wet Pettilant Fronte Perle NV R75,00 • Merwida White Muscadel 2018 R85,00 • Bergsig Gewürztraminer 2018 R120,00 Best Value Club • Anura Merlot 2017 R115,00 • Painted Wolf Peloton Rouge 2015 R120,00 • Heron Ridge The Flight Shiraz 2017 R105,00 • Rascallion Impress Rouge 2018 R119,00 • Goedverwacht Great Expectations Colombar 2019 R85,00 • Balance WMS Pinot Grigio 2019 R79,99 • Spier Vintage Selection Chenin Blanc 2017 R105,00 • False Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2019 R65,00 • Bergsig Gewürztraminer 2018 R120,00 • De Wet Pettilant Fronte Perle NV R75,00 • Merwida White Muscadel 2018 R85,00

Clive Torr

and more, call us on 021 492 4100 or email us at info@wineofthemonth.co.za WWW.WINEOFTHEMONTH.CO.ZA

Irina von Holdt

Tinashe Nyamudoka

YOUR WINE FAQS

WHAT WINE DO YOU SERVE WITH BOBOTIE? WHAT’S THE BEST GLASS FOR CHAMPAGNE? WHAT WERE THE CHAMPAGNE WARS AND WHY WERE THEY FOUGHT? I once heard a French winemaker boast that his father had been involved in the Champagne Wars of 1911. What were they and who fought in them?

In the early 1900s certain unscrupulous winemakers in the Champagne region of France began importing cheap grapes into the area and producing what they claimed was Champagne. This enraged the traditionalists, who went on a rampage in 1910 and 1911, rioting and attacking the cellars of the guilty vintners, smashing bottles and machinery and saying ‘merde’ and other French oaths. This action prompted the authorities to introduce laws laying down specific boundaries within which grapes had to be grown in order for them to be made into wine that could be called Champagne. So, in the end, the good guys won the Champagne Wars.

I am told the traditional Champagne ‘saucer’ glass was shaped to model Marie Antoinette’s breast. That’s a romantic idea but is it the best glass to sip Champagne from? Emphatically no! The saucer glass, so often featured on greeting cards and theatre posters, is about as wrong as you can get. The wide surface of the wine allows the bubbles to escape far too fast and you soon end up with flat wine. Also, the silly shape often results in messy spills, particularly at parties where the revellers will probably be drinking standing up. The better option for bubbly is a slender Champagne ‘flute.’ It looks elegant, concentrates the bubbles and doesn’t slop wine over your fellow guests. Well, not until late in the evening at least. If you want a glass suitable for holding a lady’s breast, by all means use a Champagne saucer, but for sparkling wine use a flute.

I have recently been transferred from London to Cape Town and am enjoying all the exciting local foods and wines. I have been given a recipe for bobotie, which I love, but what would be an appropriate wine to serve with it? Curry flavours are always a challenge when in comes to wine pairings. You’d probably need a fullflavoured wine to avoid having it overwhelmed by the bobotie. You might try a fortified white Muscadel as a powerful partner. Or you could play it safe and go for a cooling glass of Méthode Cap Classique (MCC) sparkling wine. Bubblies go with almost any dish. Even corn flakes, they say.

SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

FAQ.indd 23

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2019/08/26 10:30 AM

WINE | Panel Report

No tea or coffee please—

GIVE ME A GLASS OF CHENIN

We report on two categories undergoing RESTYLING. But is it UPGRADING or DOWNGRADING?

BY IRINA VON HOLDT CWM 2 4

SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

Panel Report | WINE

W

hen times are tough, the tough get going, so they say. And when times are tough our winemakers get going too. Yes, those eager beavers are busy crafting, experimenting and coming up with new ideas. We need to stay on our toes to see what’s developing.

There’s the evolution of styles—look how the new white blends have emerged as stars. Then there are the trendy Rhône styles with those newly available varieties like Grenache and Mourvèdre. It’s moved so fast that that other newcomer, Viognier, is now old hat. In fact, there are now so many Viogniers available we think they need a category of their own.

EVERYDAY CHENINS The trusty Chenin has emerged as a graceful, oh-so-well-groomed and stylish ambassador for South Africa in recent years. But what of everyday Chenins here at home?

“Lots of peaches and pears. Others with raisins and botrytis. I’d like to see more of those,” says Clive. “Please don’t bother to offer me tea or coffee, just a glass of Chenin.”

“Really enjoyed half of them and I’d be happy to take those home,” says Claude.

“But the other half are thin and watery,” complains Irina.

“All the fun has been taken out,” grumbles Winnie.

“Those that are good are the ones with more concentration,” says Dave, sagely.

“I’d like to see more wooded versions,” says Colin. “They’re a cut above the rest.”

So we see a big divide—it neatly sums up our tastings—and it shows up at least one aspect of the very versatile Chenins.

To invest in oaking winemakers need to start with good, well concentrated wine.

The quality starts here. It’s no use spending money trying to turn a thin wine into something better by putting it into oak.

The fruit character is really ALIVE, great fruit, full of SOUTH AFRICAN SUNSHINE

WINES TASTED

BY THE PANEL CHARDONNAY WINE-OF-THE-MONTH CLUB: DeMorgenzon Reserve Chardonnay 2017 ALSO LIKED: Hermanuspietersfontein Uplander Chardonnay 2016, Laarman Cluster Series Chardonnay 2015, Simonsig Chardonnay 2017, Weltevrede Vanilla Chardonnay 2017 WINES LISTED IN ALPHABETICAL ORDER: Allée Bleue Blue Owl Chardonnay 2017, Bonnievale Chardonnay 2017, Clos Malverne Chardonnay 2017, DeMorgenzon DMZ Chardonnay 2017, De Wet Chardonnay 2017, Hartenberg Chardonnay 2016, Hermanuspietersfontein Uplander Chardonnay 2016, Kleine Zalze Cellar Selection Chardonnay 2017, Kleine Zalze Vineyard Selection Chardonnay 2017, Neil Ellis Whitehall Chardonnay 2016, Overhex Balance Winemaker’s Selection Chardonnay 2017, Simonsvlei Premier Chardonnay 2017, Simonsvlei Vanilla Pot Chardonnay 2016, Topiary Chardonnay 2016, Waterkloof False Bay Crystalline Chardonnay 2017

WINE | Panel Report

As the movement to oak Chenin has gained momentum, the best grapes are selected for barrels which leaves the less good berries destined for unoaked styles.

Wooded styles are not invariably good.

Some very ordinary wines are given brief exposure to an oak stave or two, which is all too obvious.

But what of the unwooded styles of Chenin?

“I found lots to like,” says Clive.

“Lots of fruit—melons, peaches—lots of ripeness, but no lees contact.”

Colin agrees. “Yes, let it mature on the lees,” he says.

Irina joins in. “Don’t rush these into bottle, especially if harvested early. Give them time to add richness and some weight by lees contact.”

Clive points out again Chenin’s great distinguishing feature—versatility, “A huge variety of styles here,” he says.

“Floral, oaky, even mineral. The fruit character is really alive. Great fruit, full of South African sunshine.”

WINES TASTED

BY THE PANEL MERLOT

Chenin is so versatile that there are a number of ways to categorise them other than simply wooded and unwooded. The Chenin Blanc Association suggests “Fresh and fruity” for youthful everyday styles to drink young.

“Rich and ripe” for more serious versions to age. And then “Rich and ripe, oaked”, as well as Sparkling, MCC and the whole range of sweet wines ending with luscious Noble Late Harvest. So no matter your preference there’s always a Chenin just for you.

There is huge variation in quality and naturally in price. Chenin has a range from R30 to R300, or more, per bottle, a range not seen in any other category, but remember you get what you pay for.

ADVICE TO WINEMAKERS: To add some complexity and richer flavour to unoaked styles, please let the wines mature on their lees for some months. It will reward you (and us) handsomely.

WHERE ARE THOSE OLD SHIRAZES? Where are those big, meaty Shirazes of yesterday, those lovely rich and ripe wines with smoky, cured beef aromas? Well, largely, they’re gone, replaced by juicy, fruity wines with soft gentle tannins made for early drinking. Delicious and easy to drink, but different.

Colin isn’t too happy with the tasting. “I think some winemakers are bending over backwards to make Shiraz the new Merlot,” he says.

That’s understandable because Merlot has been found wanting in the soft, fleshy and gentle-on-the-palate department. Tannin is Merlot’s biggest problem, as we have pointed out many times before. Winemakers are now

WINE-OF-THE-MONTH CLUB: L’ Avenir Provenance Merlot 2017 ALSO LIKED: Bayede! The Prince Merlot 2017, Eagles’ Nest Merlot 2014, Glen Carlou Merlot 2016, Hermanuspietersfontein Posmeester Merlot 2016 WINES LISTED IN ALPHABETICAL ORDER: Arendskloof Merlot 2015, Bayede!

7 Icon Merlot 2015, Bon Courage Inkara Merlot 2015, Bonnievale Merlot 2016, De Wetshof Thibault Merlot 2010, De Wetshof Thibault Merlot 2012, Joostenberg Myburgh Bros Merlot 2015, Journey’s End Merlot 2015, Mount Rozier Beekeeper Merlot 2016, Oldenburg Merlot 2013, Romond Rebus Merlot 2012, Stellenrust Kleine Rust Merlot - Black Cap 2015, Stellenrust Merlot 2016, Uniwines Palesa Merlot 2017, Waterkloof Circumstance Merlot 2015

SHIRAZ WINE-OF-THE-MONTH CLUB: Simonsvlei Premier Shiraz 2016 ALSO LIKED: Weltevrede Cigarbox Shiraz 2016, Simonsvlei Toffee Chunk Shiraz 2016, Fort Simon Fortress Hill Shiraz 2016, Simonsig Mr Borio Shiraz 2016 WINES LISTED IN ALPHABETICAL ORDER: Allée Bleue Shiraz 2015, Bosman Generation 8 Shiraz 2017, DeMorgenzon DMZ Syrah 2016, DeMorgenzon Reserve Syrah 2015, Doran Vineyard Shiraz 2015, Hartenberg Shiraz 2015, Hermanuspietersfontein Skoonma Shiraz 2015, Joostenberg Estate Klippe Kou Shiraz 2015, Rainbow’s End Shiraz 2016, Simonsvlei Lifestyle Shiraz 2016, Stellenrust Peppergrinder Shiraz 2015, Stellenrust Shiraz 2016, Topiary Shiraz 2013, Van Loveren Christina Reserve Shiraz 2016, Windfall Shiraz 2014

They should show PURITY OF FRUIT and have SAVOURY and SPICY flavours turning to other varieties to provide the lusciousness and sheer drinking pleasure of a red. Shiraz is obviously first in line.

“For me these are just dry reds,” says Clive. “Not particularly bad, but just boring. They show over-cropping and come across as wishy-washy.”

Dave agrees: “I looked for smoky bacon and new leather aromas, but didn’t find them in this batch.”

“I’ve pointed this out before,” says Claude. “There are a lot of young vines out there that could explain these lighter styles.”

But, as Shiraz is a popular variety, there are more tastings and we do find more traditional wines.

“I love Shiraz,” says Tinashe, “especially the spicy styles, but the tannins also get to me.”

Panel Report | WINE

WINES TASTED

BY THE PANEL NON-BORDEAUX RED BLENDS WINE-OF-THE-MONTH CLUB: Anura Pinotage Shiraz 2016 ALSO LIKED: Tanagra Carah 2015, Anura Symphony 2015, Waverley Hills Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz 2016, Simonsig Cape Blend 2015 WINES LISTED IN ALPHABETICAL ORDER: Alvi’s Drift Albertus Viljoen Bismarck 2013, Arendskloof Shiraz Tannat 2014, Blake’s Amethyst 2015, Idiom Shiraz Mourvédre Viognier 2011, Idiom Shiraz Mouvédre Viognier 2013, Idiom Conical Peak 2013, Man Family Essay 2016, Pulpit Rock Louisa 2013, Rhebokskloof Cellar Selection Cabernet Shiraz 2014Signal Gun Tin Hill Red Blend 2016, Simonsig Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz 2016, Simonsig The GSM 2016, Sumaridge Epitome 2010, Strandveld The Navigator 2014, Tierhoek Syrah Grenache Mouvédre 2016

“Whenever I get unripe tannins I score the wine down,” says Dave. “It’s not what I expect from Shiraz.”

“They should show purity of fruit and have savoury and spicy flavours,” says Greg. “I did find a few, but for this variety there should be more.”

Clive has a different idea. “I’m very interested in cool-climate Shiraz,” he says.

“Swartland Shiraz is very ripe and can even be slightly porty. I like salty, meaty, liquorice flavours, flavours that are savoury. So I prefer something like Elgin Shiraz.”

To sum up, we want our Shiraz to be rich and ripe, with meaty, savoury flavours and a good wisp of smokiness to lure us into the glass. And a hint of old leather would be an added attraction...

To purchase these wines and more, head to our website www.wineofthemonth.co.za

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CONNOISSEUR’S

CHOICE A SELECTION OF TOP WINES TO TRY

1. Myburgh Bros. Viognier 2018 (Price R125.00) Defined bouquet of light yellow plum and dandelion scents, hints of nougat in the background. The palate is well balanced, a slightly waxy texture, good acidity, hints of white peach, nectarine and a touch of ginger toward the finish.

Peach, apricot and spicy aromas. Drink now or in 3-5 years. PAIRING: Seafood and shellfish, roasted or grilled chicken, veal, pork and Asian cuisine.

Ed's Choice.indd 28

2. Kanonkop Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 (Price R420.00) Full-bodied, deep ruby red colour.

Blackcurrant and mocha flavours with a complex palate and long, dry finish. It has a taut, black fruit and a touch of licorice developing with time.

The finish is nicely proportioned and slightly herbal. Drink now or in 7 years. PAIRING: Blue Cheese burgers, rosemary braised lamb shanks, Filet Mignon with rich balsamic glaze.

3. Kanonkop Pinotage 2017 (Price R425.00) Bright ruby-red hues. Aromas of mulberry, raspberry and cinnamon.

Muscular, well integrated tannins add great structure. Flavours of bramble, violets, plums and blackberries are balanced by scented new oak. Savoury notes on the lengthy finish, and a lifting underlying freshness. Drink in 15 years.

PAIRING: Roasted meats, vegetables topped with flavorful sauces such as teriyaki plum sauce.

2019/08/26 2:02 PM

Connoisseur’s Choice | WINE

4. Mount Vernon Malbec 2014 (Price R299.00) Deep core, wide rim and very youthful appearance. Ripe mulberry, plum and chocolate boom out on the full and forward nose. Polished tannins and fine oak support. Bounding with potential, a delightful wine. Drink now. PAIRING: Goes well with lean cuts of meat like flank, sirloin and skirt steak, chicken and other meats like lamb.

7. Waterford Rose-Mary Rosé 2018 (Price R121.00) The aroma is minerally driven with delicate raspberry fruit undertones.

The natural acidity from the different Mediterranean varietals add a lovely soft texture to the wine and provides for a crisp and delicate finish. The perfect low alcohol wine. Drink now. PAIRING: Enjoy with pork, oily fish, vegetarian and poultry dishes.

10. Ken Forrester The FMC Chenin Blanc 2018 (Price R545.00) The pinnacle of what we consider to be the finest expression of the grapes of this varietal – an icon Chenin, a challenge to the world! Rich, layered with dried apricot, vanilla and honey.

Will gain additional complexity with cellaring. Drink now or in 15 years.

PAIRING: Enjoy with spiced dishes, even mild seafood or curries.

5. Anura Reserve Malbec 2017 (Price R215.00) Sweet plums, mulberry and marzipan aromas with a rich mouthfeel and a long, smooth finish underlined by liquorice spice and dried peach tones.

Wonderfully paired with grilled meats, rich tomato based dishes and stews or can also be enjoyed with a mature cheese board and sweet preserves. Always a hit at any braai.

8. Tierhoek Chardonnay 2017 (Price R109.00) Displays a boisterous nose of lemon and lime notes. Effervescent citrus notes are seamlessly carried through on the palate, underpinned by baked apple pie aromas. Its time spent naturally fermenting in a lovely wooded appeal with a soft, creamy mouth-filling quality. Drink now. PAIRING: Pair with fresh garden salads, grilled salmon and spicy seared tuna.

11. Saxenburg Guinea Fowl Red 2016 (Price R69.00) This classic blend with a good colour shows a nice combination of dark and red fruit with dark cherry and plum more prominent. Medium-bodied with good subtle oak to complement the wine. It has a good mid palate with creamy tannins ending with a fresh acidity. Drink now or in 5 years.

PAIRING: Pairs with game, red meat as well as pasta and pizza.

6. Thelema Sutherland Syrah 2015 (Price R149.00) Thelema’s Syrah is full-bodied with inviting aromas of black berries, plums and savoury spice, with great texture on the palate and a long, juicy finish. This wine shows inviting aromas of black berries, plums and savoury spice, with great texture on the palate and a long, juicy finish. Drink in 5 years. PAIRING: The spicy character of this wine lends itself to stews and grilled beef.

9. Goedverwacht Great Expectations Colombar 2019 (Price R85.00) A crisp, fruity white wine with hints of guava and passion fruit on the nose.

This wine displays mouthwatering fruit on the palate and crisp, well-balanced acidity. Drink now. PAIRING: Pair with antipasto, cheeses, chilled soups, seafood, oysters, lobster, shrimp, clams, crab, fried fish, green salad, chicken salad, fried chicken, Asian, Thai or Mexican food.

12. Saxenburg Private Collection Cab Sauv 2013 (Price R235.00) The wine is elegantly structured with a typical tight and dry structure which finishes with great balance. Nice dark fruitiness to the wine. Lots of mulberry, blackberry and blueberry notes on the aroma and also present on the palate. Drink now. PAIRING: The wine is an ideal accompaniment to rich, full flavoured meat dishes, venison, pork, hard cheese and beef.

Drink now or in 2 years. PAIRING:

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2019/08/26 1:42 PM

WINE | Connoisseur’s Choice

13. Bergsig Weisser Riesling 2019 (Price R109.00) Intense limey flavour with a complex mid palate. Rich, but elegant wine with good maturation potential. Drink now or in 3-5 years. PAIRING: Works well with spicy fare, fruit dishes, lobster, scallops and fish, pork, BLT sandwiches, and smoked meat. Also a fantastic match for avocados, rich cheese, crab, Goat Cheese, foie gras, and rich textured dishes.

16. Flagstone Longitude 2018 (Price R81.99) Plums and dark berries. Spicy undertones of coriander and cloves with a hint of fresh mint gives this wine dimension. The palate is all about silky tannins and length. Flavours of plum and berries combined with subtle tannins, makes this a smooth wine on the palate. Drink now. PAIRING: Pairs with spiced Karoo lamb chops on a braai.

19. Anura Merlot 2017 (Price R115.00) This complex merlot has intense flavours of ripe blackberry, red berry and blackcurrant. There are hints of mint and violet aromas including subtle tones of dark chocolate and coffee. The wine has well integrated French oak, a smooth palate and a long lingering finish. Drink now. PAIRING: Pairs well with chicken and other light meats as well as lightly-spiced dark meats.

14. Bergsig Gewürztraminer 2018 (Price R120.00) This wine offers aromatic rose petal perfume, enhanced by the aromas of litchis and Turkish delight. The palate is fresh fruity and beautifully balanced, finishing off-dry. Drink now or in 1-4 years. PAIRING: Pair with Thai or Asian dishes, as well as zesty-flavoured fares like barbecue or hot wings. Gewürztraminer shows best when served well chilled.

17. Flagstone Poetry Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 (Price R69.00) Rich, ruby red. A complex nose with a mixture of dark red fruit, mocha, cigar box and mint aromas. Hint of dark chocolate and well-balanced oak on the finish. Poetry is romantic, poignant and it shows the compulsion of our heart, the engine of our ambition and the spirit of desire. Drink now. PAIRING: Pairs with ostrich fillet on a wild mushroom risotto.

20. Painted Wolf Peloton Rouge 2015 (Price R120.00) A beautifully poised Cape blend with spicy red and black fruit and a long energetic finish. The wine was matured in French, American and Hungarian oak barrels for 13 months.

Drink now. PAIRING: Paired with beef or lamb dishes such as Thai style red beef curry or a nice South African lamb bobotie.

15. Bergsig Sauvignon Blanc 2019 (Price R108.00) Bergsig Sauvignon Blanc has the appetite appeal of crunchy summer fruits with a vein of lemony freshness.

The ideal food partner on a hot summer’s day. Drink now or in 2 years.

PAIRING: Pairs well with similar green herbs. If it has parsley, rosemary, basil, cilantro or mint, chances are Sauvignon Blanc will make a great pairing.

18. Flagstone Poetry Merlot 2018 (Price R69.00) Poetry is about paired-down words, making, forming, creating. Bright ruby red in colour. Mixture of bright red fruit and mint aromas on the nose. Sweet, spicy undertones and well-balanced wood structure complements the palate.

Drink now. PAIRING: Pairs harmoniously with ostrich fillet in red wine reduction on wild mushroom risotto.

21. Painted Wolf Lycaon Old Vine Chenin Blanc 2018 (Price R249.00) An elegant and subtle wine, with an aroma of peach with hints of salty earthiness. The wine has a creamy finessed texture with a long finish. It is bone dry. Drink in 3-4 years. PAIRING: This wine has yielded a sleek and complex, suitable for country cooking with a French flair.

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SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

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2019/08/26 1:42 PM

Connoisseur’s Choice | WINE

22. Painted Wolf Black Pack Chenin Blanc 2018 (Price R145.00) An elegant wine, with an aroma of fresh peach cobbler, melon, citrus and vanilla. The wine has a creamy finessed texture with a long finish with nice fresh acid keeping it bouncy and vibrant. 1900 bottles produced.

Drink in 3-4 years. PAIRING: Pairs with vegetable dishes or salads, rich fish or cream-based chicken entrées.

25. Quoin Rock Shiraz 2015 (Price R600.00) “Chunky, bold and big!” Very expressive of this variety in perfect balance, expressing characters of jasmine, pepper-spice, melba toast and sweet vanilla, with beautiful oak and tannin integration. Drink now or in 15 years from vintage. PAIRING: This wine will complement beef, lamb and rich venison dishes.

28. Edgebaston David Finlayson G.S Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 (Price R462.00) Cassis and blackcurrant fruit on the nose as well as a fresh minty, herbaceousness backed by mocha vanilla. Long lasting flavours of boysenberry and hints of sweet mulberry follow through. Drink now or in 8 years. PAIRING: Enjoy with braised beef, lamb and thyme roasted mushrooms and polenta.

23. Rascallion Impress Rouge 2018 (Price R119.00) Ripe berry notes and pronounced jammy flavours. You can discern notes of cherry jam, wild berry jam or dark plum in these wines. Ripe tannins add the necessary structure for pairing the wines with food. Drink now. PAIRING: Try with BBQ-marinated pork ribs, beef and vegetable skewers or T-bone steaks and meat dishes.

26. Stellekaya Orion 2014 (Price R289.00) Bouquet of an earthy forest floor with multiple layers of fruit and spice. The bold entry on the palate is followed with the perfect integration of fruit and tannin. Results in a gripping but lingering finish. Drink before end of 2022. PAIRING: A rich dish for a rich wine – oxtail stew with herbs and red wine on polenta, or lamb shank on wilted spinach and mashed potato.

29.Anthonij Rupert Optima 2015 (Price R200.00) Blackcurrant, cassis, violet perfume and an earthy richness. The wine feels silky, supple and smooth when first it hits the palate. Flavours of dark berry fruit, cigar box and spice. Poised and balanced with neither fruit nor oak dominating. Drink now or in 10 years.

PAIRING: Pair with fillet with mustard and brandy sauce, beef, lamb and cheese.

24. De Wet Chenin Blanc Single Vineyard 2017 (Price R92.00) Sur lie method was used in aging of this wine in French oak barrels for eight months. This created a balance between a well-rounded mouthfeel and a marriage between stone fruit, vanilla and buttery aromas. Drink now or in 2 years. PAIRING: Pairs well with rich fish or cream-based chicken dishes, mild seafood or curries.

27. Rainbow’s End Cabernet Franc 2016 (Price R279.00) Aromas of red berries and hints of peppercorn ‘spiciness’ which then leads through to a palate layered with profiles of tobacco, leather and a plummy richness on the mid-palate. Finally finishing off with soft, velvety tannins.

Did you Know? You can join our Olive Oil Club today and receive the best local olive oils and olive oil products from around South Africa. You can choose how often you would like to receive them and they’ll be delivered to your door. Call: 021 492 4100 | Website: www.wineofthemonth.co.za

Drink now or in 2-5 years. PAIRING:

Will complement most red-meat dishes and an array of cheeses.

To purchase these wines and more, head to our website www.wineofthemonth.co.za SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

Ed's Choice.indd 31

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2019/08/26 1:21 PM

A DIVINE DRINK

T

here’s something distinctly spiritual about alcohol, if you’ll excuse the pun. For almost all of human history alcohol has been regarded as extraordinary, magical or even sacred. It has been called the elixir of life, water of life and nectar of the gods. Alcoholic drinks have been used throughout the ages as an important part of religious ceremonies. The ancient Greeks and Romans worshipped gods of wine.

There is little evidence of anyone ever worshipping gods of milk, beer or tea.

Thirsty people glug down a mug of milk or coffee without ceremony, but fill that mug with wine and it requires a ritual.

Whether it is a birthday celebration, a wedding or simply a casual drink in the local pub with a friend, before the first sip the drinkers will raise their glasses, look into each others’ eyes and drink a toast. It may just be a quick ‘cheers!’ or ‘gesondheid’, or it can be a more 3 2

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elaborate toast calling for health or love or happiness. It may be a toast to show loyalty to your country. The point is, we all feel compelled to pause and say something before taking that first sip of wine.

During the great days of the British Empire every formal dinner or banquet in countries and colonies across the globe––from Canada to New Zealand and, yes, to South Africa, began with the “Loyal Toast”. In the days when smoking was fashionable and permitted, the gentlemen were not allowed to smoke until after the loyal toast had been raised.

It goes without saying that officers in British regiments around the world began their mess dinners by raising a glass to pledge their loyalty to the King (or Queen) of England.

There were two notable exceptions.

Members of the 2nd Battalion Light Infantry and the Royal Welsh Fusiliers were excused by King George IV from

raising the loyal toast, because he said their loyalty was beyond question. Both had been involved in rescuing the King from awkward situations.

In Oliver Cromwell’s time, the king, James II, was in exile in France. His loyal subjects dared not show their loyalty by drinking the loyal toast, so they saluted their monarch in a secret way by raising their glasses over a finger bowl or a glass of water and looking into each other’s eyes, silently saluting “the king over the water”.

Another exception to the tradition of the loyal toast is that officers of the Royal Navy are permitted to remain seated while the toast is raised. Some say this is because ships in Admiral Nelson’s time were so cramped between decks that there just wasn’t enough room to stand up. Whatever the occasion, there are centuries of tradition in that simple ritual of saying ‘cheers’ before taking the first sip of wine.

Illustration by: Chloé Damstra

Why wine requires a ritual

By David Biggs

SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

2019/08/22 11:25 AM

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