SA Connoisseur - Issue 280, Feb/March 2020

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VOL 280

E WIEN NTS

EV SA & Around

PICNICKING

In

IN THE WINELANDS

YOUR LOCAL BUTCHER: MAKING BETTER MEAT CHOICES

Boland CELLAR Wines of

GUILT-FREE

Sweet Treats

2020 Wine RESOLUTIONS

THE ‘EVILS’ OF WINE


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GENERATIONS GENERATIONS OF WINEMAKING OF WINEMAKING EXCELLENCE EXCELLENCE A full flavoured Dry Rosé made by the traditional Methodé Cap Classique. Meticulous blending by our experienced winemaker creates an elegant and classy Rosé with a youthful berry fragrance and striking finesse on the palate.

PLEAS E ENJOY RESPONSIBLY SIMONSIG WINE ESTATE, KROMME RHEE ROAD, KOELENHOF, 7605 | PHONE: 021 888 4900

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SOUTH AFRICAN

CONNOISSEUR www.wineofthemonth.co.za

EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Colin Collard ART DIRECTOR Taryn Breetzke DESIGNER Chloe Damstra WINE BUYER/PUBLISHER Natalie Collard WINE TASTINGS/ ASSISTANT TO BUYER/ ADMINISTRATOR Dean Townsend REGULAR CONTRIBUTORS Articles—David Biggs & Irina von Holdt OTHER CONTRIBUTORS Lorraine Lines (Consultant)

HAVE A QUESTION? HERE’S HOW TO CONTACT US:

• Advertising call on 021 492 4102 or email natalie@wineofthemonth.co.za. • Wine delivery or wine orders call 021 492 4100, fax 086 674 3966, or email info@wineofthemonth.co.za.

• Write to the Editor: Email us on cheers@wineofthemonth.co.za or write to The Chairman, Connoisseur, P.O. Box 30, Constantia 7848. Send press releases via email to taryn@wineofthemonth.co.za. All contributions are edited for space and style.

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South African Connoisseur is published every alternate month by Converge (Pty) Ltd, Capricorn Boulevard South, Capricorn Business Park, Muizenberg, Cape Town, 7945. © Copyright 2020. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. Liability. While every care is taken in the preparation of this magazine, the publishers cannot be held responsible for the accuracy of the information herein, or any consequence arising from it. The views and opinions expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of Converge (Pty) Ltd, the publication or the publisher.

Nestled in the heart of the Durbanville Wine Valley you’ll find Nitida, a family-owned and operated wine cellar. This boutique winery believes that being handmade is more than just a physical process and approach, it is about perfecting the small details along the way while treating each batch of juice with respect throughout its journey from the vine to Nitida wines. At the end of the journey, each wine embodies that attitude. NITIDA SAUVIGNON BLANC: “Perfectly balanced freshness and mouthfeel.” A dazzling dance of nectarine, pawpaw and pink fleshy guava reflects the riper tropical fruit flavours of the 2019 harvest, with green undertones that is traditional from the Durbanville terroir. NITIDA CABERNET SAUVIGNON: Great wine is made in the vineyard, this being ever true. Durbanville’s cool, maritime climate is suited perfectly for the production of elegantly styled Cabernet Sauvignon characterised by concentrated dark fruit flavours and soft, plush tannins.

WWW.NITIDA.CO.ZA


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CONTENTS 05 WHAT’S ON—EVENTS IN AND AROUND SA 06 WINE & DINE—WHAT’S NEW IN FOOD AND DRINK 10 DAVE BIGGS’S 2020 WINE RESOLUTIONS 12 THE BEST PICNIC SPOTS IN THE WINELANDS 14 OUR LOCAL BUTCHER: HELPING US MAKE BETTER MEAT CHOICES 16 GUILT-FREE SWEET TREATS

20 THIS MONTH’S WINNING WINES 21 YOUR WINE QUESTIONS ANSWERED 22 IRINA VON HOLDT REPORTS ON THE LATEST PANEL TASTINGS 27 CONNOISSEUR’S CHOICE—A SELECTION OF TOP WINES TO TRY 32 DAVID BIGGS ON THE “EVILS” OF ALCOHOL

ON THE COVER Wines of Boland Cellar on p.08

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He’s back. Check out your local butcheries on p.14

The Right Kind of Resolutions Whether it’s cutting down on complex carbs, (yes you, shoestring fries) reducing our meat intake or spending less time on Instagram, we always seem to approach a new year with resolutions armed with hope and willpower. Though, by February, and despite our best intentions, many of us have already lost most of our resolution steam. (Fries, welcome back.) Now, and with every encouragement to keep to your 2020 goals, David Biggs shares the kind of resolutions that may be slightly easier to stick to. Because when it comes to drinking more wine in better ways … we’re easily persuaded, right? Discover Dave’s Six Wine Resolutions for 2020 on p.10. From fine wines to delicious recipes, we move to guilt-free sweet treats. Ideal for those of us who want to make better food choices this year, you’ll find all the healthy heavyweights like beetroot, avocado and matcha in our recipes on pg.16. If, like me, you want to spend more quality time with the grandkids this year, turn to p.12 for the best picnic spots in the winelands. With plenty of playgrounds and wide-open spaces, a picnic is a wonderful way to enjoy the outdoors and quality time with loved ones. From picnic baskets to juicy briskets, on p.14 we discover what new local butcheries are offering. These nose-to-tail butchers not only help us make better, more sustainable meat choices, but they also allow us to support new small enterprises. Lastly, in this month’s regular back page column, David Biggs ponders why we’re still stuck on the ‘evils’ of alcohol, when, instead, we should be celebrating one of man’s finest accomplishments. (p.32) Cheers to that. And cheers to this issue’s valuable information on the latest and greatest in those fine accomplishments. Wishing you a wonderful 2020.

Champange bubbles resolutions

Discover David Biggs’ wine resolutions for 2020 on p.10

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CHAIRMAN OF WINE-OF-THE-MONTH CLUB

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S A C O C K TA I L W E E K , 2 9 F E B UA RY 7 MARCH 2020 Pencil in this 7-day festival that celebrates South Africa’s vibrant cocktail industry. This annual shindig is dedicated to the art of cocktail making and the very best of our local bar scene. Expect bar hopping tours, master classes, an awards ceremony and, of course, the obligatory over the shoulder shaking. Kick off the celebrations with the “Grand Street Party” on Saturday, 29 Feb. www.sacocktailweek.co.za

WHAT’S ON Festivals and Events Around SA

ROBERTSON WINE VALLEY HANDS-ON HARVEST FESTIVAL, 28 FEBRUARY-1 MARCH This annual down-to-earth celebration offers families a chance to really experience the magic of harvest time. With over twenty Robertson (and surrounding) wineries participating, this fruity fiesta offers visitors a wide variety of tailor-made activities and delicious food too. www.handsonharvest.com

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T H E OY S T E R & B U B B LY F E S T I VA L , 2 8 F E B R UA RY Slip into a bubbly and oyster oasis at the first-ever Annual Oyster & Bubbly Festival at The Pearls of Umhlanga Mall in Durban. Pop into one of Durban’s coolest spots where you can enjoy a variety of oysters freshly shucked, sautéed or simmered—all paired with over 25 of the best bubblies around. www.quicket.co.za THE WINE GRAPE HARVEST AT DUSK WITH NEDERBURG, 8 FEBRUARY It’s almost that time of the year again when Nederburg’s team face the 2020 grape harvest head-on. As always, the beautiful Paarl winery invites guests to come and experience the harvest first-hand, providing the opportunity to snip, squash and taste to your heart’s content. www.nederburg.com

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Vignette courtesy of Hardie Grant UK

Becoming A Sommelier courtesy of Simon & Schuster UK

Natural Wine For The People courtesy of Ten Speed Press

THREE WINE BOOKS TO READ IN 2020 1. Natural Wine For The People by Alice Feiring What do you say about a style that focuses on minimal intervention, lack of additives and organic growing methods? Alice Feiring offers an accessible guide filled with easy definitions, tips and tricks for sourcing the best natural wines. R297 from Exclusive Books.

2. Becoming a Sommelier by Rosie Schaap Acclaimed food and wine writer Rosie Schaap profiles two renowned sommeliers to offer a candid portrait of this profession. Learn from Amanda Smeltz (a poet and wine director) and Roger Dagorn (an award-winning sommelier) to see what it takes. R299 from Takealot.

3. Vignette: Stories of Life and Wine in 100 Bottles by Jane Lopes In Vignette, sommelier Jane Lopes recommends 100 bottles of wine to best expand your wine journey. As Lopes says, “These are wines to live with, learn from and take solace in—a joyous, surprising, and revelatory response to that age-old question: ‘What should I drink?’”

A SEASONAL MENU THAT SIZZLES Lanzerac’s MANOR KITCHEN has launched a new summer menu that shows off some of South Africa’s best produce. Executive Chef Stephen Fraser and his team have been hard at work creating a world-class dining experience for Lanzerac’s guests. On the new menu you can enjoy the likes of an Exotic Mushroom Salad, Tuna Tartare and Venison Carpaccio for starters. For mains, there’s a hearty choice of dishes such as Noisette of Lamb, Sirloin of Beef, Duck Breast to name a few. And for dessert? Well, we think you should go and see for yourself. To book your spot email restaurants@lanzerac.co.za

R388 from Exclusive Books.

WINE & DINE What’s New in Food and Wine

Serving Up Scoops of Love

Meet 30-year-old Sine Ndlela, founder of local vegan ice-cream brand, YOCOCO. With a background in TV, Sine is self-taught when it comes to all things ice creamy. Her entrepreneurial journey began with a lifestyle change, where she had to cut out dairy from her diet. A self-confessed ice-cream addict, she said she struggled to find a decent dairy-free ice-cream. And so, Yococo was born. With the tag line, ‘Scoops of Love’ Yococo products are 100% plant-based, made with locally sourced ingredients and contain no artificial flavours or colourants. “I believe we’re all here to serve,” Sine says. And for me, I think it’s to serve love. And, what do I love more than anything? Ice-cream.” www.yococo.co.za 6

SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR


A NEW HOME FOR CAUSE|EFFECT

Cape Town’s favourite cocktail bar, CAUSE|EFFECT has moved to a new home at the V&A Waterfront. To accompany their new digs, the talented bunch has also launched a new lip-smackingly good summer menu. “This summer there is a big focus on fragrant and aromatic drinks, not overly sweet tropical flavours,” says owner Kurt Schlechter. The new location is a pretty stylish spot, complete with heaps of indoor greenery and charming vintage touches. Cause|Effect’s food is designed to partner with their long list of crafted cocktails and classic drinks. Enjoy Eggs Benedict for breakfast, Beef Burger Sliders for lunch and a Seafood Platter for dinner. CAUSE|EFFECT is open from Monday to Sunday from 10am-12am.

GABRIËLSKLOOF’S ‘LITTLE DARLING’

Gabriëlskloof celebrates a special occasion with the 10th release of its everyday favourite ROSEBUD ROSÉ. “A dry, light and deliciously moreish Provençal-style rosé,” says cellar master PeterAllan Finlayson. Rosebud is a blended wine with the 2019 vintage comprising equal amounts of Syrah and Viognier. Expect luscious fruit on the nose — watermelon, papaya and strawberry. The perfect Valentine’s Day tipple. www.gabrielskloof.co.za

WHAT MAKES A GOOD WINE LIST? Here are five simple ways to tell a good wine list from a bad one: 1. There’s a good selection: Not just by the bottle, but there’s also a good selection of wines by the glass too.

Where Do You Stand With Wine In A Can?

While boxed wine (or better known as papsak this side of the equator) seems to be getting better and better, what do we think of wine in a can? Recently, we’ve noticed more and more wine-ina-can producers popping up throughtout SA. It’s said that the can itself does not impact the flavour or breathability of the wine. These wine cans also make for a neat, lighter replacement when glass is strictly prohibited in public places such as parks, gardens and pools.

2. Reasonable mark-ups: We know restaurants need to make money, but if you notice the wines are way above retail price, order tap water or a beer instead. 3. They suggest pairings: It’s always a good idea to be given suggested pairings; even the most educated wine drinker will appreciate them.

Three Canned Wine Brands To Try: 1. Ben Wren Wine: Available in a Rosé, Sauvignon Blanc, Red Blend and Bubble Rosé. www.benwrenwine.com 2. Uncanny: Available in a Merlot and Chenin Blanc with no sulphur added.

www.uncanny.co.za

3. CanCan: Available in a Rosé and Chenin Blanc. www.cancan.wine

4. Good glassware: The finest wine can be spoilt served with a side of lipstick smudge. The right, clean and beautiful glassware can make all the difference. 5. Knowledgeable staff: Apart from using a good type font and a swanky leather binder for the wine list, the establishment’s staff need to know what to recommend and why. SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

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Six Wine

Resolutions for 2020 A New Year, and Dave Biggs shares his resolutions for wine drinking…

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ell, we made it through 2019. It was a traumatic year, not without its problems, but with regular tributes to those two reliable old deities, Bacchus and Dionysus we survived. At the start of a new year it’s traditional to make a list of resolutions we don’t really expect to keep for more than a week. I always resolve not to let my bank balance slip into overdraft, for example, but by January 24th I’ve run out of cat food and can hardly expect my cats to suffer for my financial untidiness, so there goes the first resolution.

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Wine resolutions are a different matter. We do need to start the New Year with a list of rules that will ensure a year of happy, healthy and safe drinking. If our drinking is not happy or safe, maybe we shouldn’t be doing it at all (Just joking! Ridiculous thought!) So here’s my personal list of wine resolutions for 2020: Resolution 1: Drink More Water. This may sound like a silly start to a list of wine resolutions, but it’s a serious one. Rather than slurp my way mindlessly through a bottle of good Pinotage or Cab Franc, I will fill my glass with water whenever I have drained the wine in it. There are two reasons for this. It rinses the glass and cleans my palate, so I enjoy the next glass more. It also slows the pace of my drinking, which is probably a good idea.

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Champange bubbles resolutions

Resolution 3: Explore New Wines and Regions. Take time when you’re buying your weekend supply to scan the shelves for brands you haven’t heard of or imports from countries whose wines you don’t know. Treat yourself to one wine surprise every month (at least). If you’re

a devoted Chardonnay fan take a side road into Viognier territory for a change. You might be pleasantly surprised. Naturally, the Wine-of-the-Month Club can help you discover new wines too, just give them a call or browse their website. Resolution 4: Aim Carefully. When opening a bottle of bubbly, be careful to point the cork away from people or valuable items. The pressure inside a Champagne bottle is high enough to launch a formidably ferocious missile. The wire cage on the cork adds to the danger. Also make sure your sparkling wine is properly chilled before opening it. Warmth intensifies the explosion.

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Resolution 5: Go For Pink. Gone are the days when the few available South African rosé wines were sticky sweet and marketed as “a little something pink for the ladies”. Today’s elegantly dry rosés are perfectly suited for South Africa’s warm summer days and outdoor lifestyle. Get to know some good ones. Resolution 6: Enjoy more. No, I don’t mean more wine. I mean more enjoyment. Wine is one of the human race’s great achievements. It has played a major role in religious ceremonies, celebrations and commemorations for thousands of years. It deserves our respect. I hope our wines create new friendships and cement old ones. May 2020 be a year of tribute to all the people who create good wines; and to all those who enjoy them.

2020

Illustration by: Chloé Damstra

Resolution 2: Don’t Drink and Drive. I will not drink anything alcoholic if I will be in charge of a vehicle afterwards. We all consider ourselves experienced drivers (and drinkers) and know we can handle a glass or two safely, but repeated tests have shown that even a single glass of wine can affect your reaction time enough to cause an accident. A night in a police cell is not fun and the regret of having caused a fatal accident will be with you forever. Rather arrange for a good friend to be your sober driver. You can return the compliment later. And, your friend will have the pleasure of telling everyone what a complete poephol you made of yourself at the party while he watched in sober superiority. Consider using the Uber taxi network. They can save you embarrassment, injury and jail-time.

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Warwick photo by Virgin Limited Edition

PICNIC PERFECT

Some favourite picnic spots in the winelands

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f you feel like a day out in the country, with a little romance and sophistication thrown in, but have to tag the kids along, then we can definitely recommend a picnic in the winelands. They are a great way to relax in a beautiful setting, and all have space for the kids to roam and enjoy nature while you sip your Chardonnay. OV E R- SI Z E D C U SH IO N S U N D E R UM B R E L L A S Picnicking around a dam can’t be much better than at WARWICK WINE ESTATE. You are guaranteed relaxation because there is a child-friendly area with a jungle gym to entertain the kids. You can either sit back under their umbrellas and on over-sized cushions, or try a picnic pod. Price: R500 basket for two. Kids basket: R80. Opening times: Monday to Sunday from 09:00 to 17:00. In the basket… Beef fillet, home-made mayonnaise, charcuterie, Moroccan salad, local cheeses, chutney, pâtés, pretzel and ciabatta, home-made chocolate brownies, and grapes. Vegetarian option: phyllo tart, a British salad, barley, beetroot, yoghurt, toasted nuts and pâté. Contact: www.warwickwine.com

ART IN THE GARDEN The setting at SPIER WINE FARM is hard to beat; from art in the garden and a dam with resident ducks, to a post-picnic walk around the estate or a viewing of birds of prey. Pre-book your picnic 24 hours in advance, just bring your own blanket or tablecloth. Price: R550 basket for two. Kids basket: R140 (includes a fun bag with crayons). Opening times: Monday to Sunday from 10.00 to 16.30. In the basket… Baguette, home-made hummus, cheeses, preserves and home-made crackers, cold cuts with mustard and home-made chutney, droëwors, olives, Greek salad, potato salad, seasonal fruit salad, and dark chocolate brownie fingers. Contact: www.spier.co.za

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N AT U R E WA L K S Choose a secluded spot by the dam for your romantic picnic, although any spot will do. HIDDEN VALLEY WINES has vineyard views and lush gardens throughout the estate. And to really get your appetite going, why not try a nature walk before your picnic? Picnics must be ordered 24 hours in advance. Price: R440 basket for two, no kids basket. Opening times: Daily from 09:00 to 18:00 (summer months). In the basket… Cheeses, charcuterie, preserves, relish, quiche, green salad, fruit, crackers, nuts, baguette, estate olives and olive oil, hummus, caramelised onion, and something sweet. Contact: www.hiddenvalleywines.co.za

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U N DE R T H E OA K S Soak up the summer shade while relaxing under the oaks, in a landscaped garden overlooking the vineyards at GRANDE PROVENCE. It couldn’t get more romantic than this. Price: R580 for the Grand Country Picnic Basket for two people. R325 for a single basket. No kids basket. Opening times: Monday to Sunday from 12:00 to 14:30. In the basket… French baguette, artisanal Brie, locally-cured saucisson, home-made preserves and butter, a garden salad, chocolate brownie, a bottle of Angels Tears wine, and a bottle of still or sparkling water. Additional addons are on offer too: parfait, fruit, quiche, salad and macaroons. Contact: www.grandeprovence.co.za BLANKETS SUPPLIED Another beautiful picnic area set around a dam is at MONT ROCHELLE. They offer various picnic options and provide blankets for you. If you don’t like to sit too close to the ground, grab a table alongside the boules court in the garden. Price: From R360 basket for two, with various options. Kids basket: R110. Opening times: Monday to Sunday from 10:00 to 19:00. In the basket… Cheeses, cold meats, condiments, smoked salmon with herb cream cheese, capers and lemon, pan-fried prawns, sticky chicken wings, roasted vegetables, pâté with cranberry compote, a tomato, salad, brownies, crackers and home-made bread. Contact: www.montrochelle.co.za Photo by Claire Gunn

TRACTOR RIDES TO O Now here’s one the kids will definitely love; at SOLMS DELTA a tractor takes you to the various available picnic spots—what a ride! Each spot is quite private, and there is also a stream and dam for the kids to play in, which is a welcome relief on the very hot summer days. Price: R395 basket for two. Kids basket: R95. Opening times: Daily, picnics available September - April. In the basket… Firebaked roosterkoek with wild rosemary butter, Camembert with pineapple chutney, beef biltong and snoek pate, and dessert is malva pudding and custard. Contact: www.solms-delta.co.za C HOIC E OF T WO Le Pique Nique at BOSCHENDAL remains an old favourite and offers two picnic experiences. The Rhone Rose Garden Picnic offers a more traditional style picnic around the vineyards, set at a table or on a blanket under the shade. Werf Farm Picnic is under the trees of the Pavilion lawn and is a more relaxed affair—but bring your own blankets and chairs. Price: R580 basket for two, R540 for vegetarian. Kids basket: R125. Opening times: Monday to Sunday from 12:00. In the basket… Pâté, chicken liver parfait and onion jam, country bread, seasonal salad, Coronation chicken, a selection of meats, wholegrain mustard, artisan cheeses, and cheesecake. Vegetarian option: hummus pâté and a garden vegetable frittata. Contact: www.boschendal.co.za SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

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He’s Back. YOUR LOCAL BUTCHER How to make better meat choices while supporting small businesses

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ot too long ago we used to buy our meat from the friendly butcher down the road. Jump forward a decade or two and the neighbourhood butchery has all but disappeared. We now pop into our local supermarket and choose meat from what’s already cut, wrapped and priced. But slowly, here and there, things are changing. We’re starting to see the local or artisanal butcher shop making a comeback. This time they’re slightly different. Their focus is on buying whole animals from local farms that look after their animals the way you and I would. Some of these butchers call themselves nose-to-tail butchers, or artisans. These guys (and gals) ensure they source their animals from reputable farms with humane farming practices and where animals are free-range and fed on a diet that doesn’t include hormones. A welcome change? Sure. You and many of today’s consumers want to know how food is being produced. You want transparency. These butchers are bringing awareness and the conversation

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Perhaps the HIGHER PRICES will inspire some consumers to REDUCE their quantity OF MEAT around the meat that we eat back into our daily lives. They are, of course, also providing the farmers who share their views with a place to sell their animals. They are also a driving force for many other farmers wanting to switch to this type of husbandry, where they can get better prices for their meat and get back to farming the way their families used to in the past. Of course, although this all sounds nice, not everyone can afford the prices these butcheries are charging. Like most artisanal food products, they are priced higher than what you pay in the supermarket. The question for the meat industry is: how can we change the system to make accessible price points for meat that is humanely raised and, let’s face it, much better for the environment? One way, of course, is to educate consumers on the cheaper cuts of meat—such as brisket and mince. You

don’t always need to be buying rib-eye steak or boneless, skinless chicken breasts. Farmers should also advocate for using older animals, like spent dairy cows that cut food costs and waste. Perhaps the higher prices will inspire some consumers to reduce the quantity of meat they eat to just a few times a week, rather than every day, as well as get more out of the parts of the animals they usually throw away, like the bones (hello, bone broth). Isn’t this one of the keys to building a better planet? This brings us to the Slow Meat South Africa group that brings together farmers, butchers, artisanal meat producers, chefs and consumers. This group has a lot to say about the way farmers breed and rear meat. Since we’re a tjop en dop nation that eats a lot of meat, it’s time we start finding out what we’re putting into our bodies. The slow food movement is all about the alternatives to fast food and an awareness of our food’s origins. It’s about taking the time to connect to real life and what is local, traditional, and ethical. Founding member, Caroline McCann, of Braeside Butchery in Johannesburg, explains: “With increased demand, industrial farming has turned food production into a machine that puts profit and efficiency ahead of health and sustainability. It is a short-sighted approach that comes at a cost to our health, our environment, animal welfare, the nutritional value of the meat we consume and even its taste.” Here’s to a local butchery popping up around the corner from you soon.

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FRANKIE FENNER MEAT MERCHANTS, CAPE TOWN The local favourites and quickly expanding Frankie Fenner believe that buying meat is about the farmers and, of course, the animals. They work with passionate suppliers (the type who rear healthy, happy animals) to produce clean, ethical, sustainable food. LOCATION: Woodstock, Claremont, Gardens & Durbanville • TEL: 081 316 9251 • WEB: www.ffmm.co.za

THE FARM SHOP & BUTCHERY, STELLENBOSCH Stocks a range of products including Boschendal’s own pasture-reared Black Angus Beef, Duroc Pork, pasture-raised eggs, and fresh produce. The Farm Shop & Butchery is our go-to butchery in the winelands. LOCATION: Boschendal • TEL: 021 870 4281 • EMAIL: farmshop@boschendal.co.za

Remember to ask your local butcher any questions you may have about your meat.

BRAESIDE, BRYANSTON ORGANIC MARKET, JOBURG All Braeside’s meat comes from specially selected farmers that they visit frequently and who farm ethically. Braeside claims to buy and sell only the best and most natural meat you’ll find in Jozi. LOCATION: Bryanston Organic Market • TEL: 011 788 3613 • WEB: www.braesidebutchery.co.za

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KAROO KITCHEN, DURBAN NORTH Karoo Kitchen partners with suppliers from across SA. The lamb is sourced from their own abattoir in the Karoo. They also stock Greenfields grass-fed beef, Wagyu and pure-bred Angus beef from Netherwood Farm, fresh Riversmead chicken, Sala pork and processed pork products, as well as game and artisanal products. LOCATION: Durban North • TEL: 031 564 0172 • WEB: www.karookitchen.co.za

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RECIPES | SWEET WITHOUT SIN Raspberry & Yoghurt Ice Lollies Recipe on pg.18

SWEET

without SIN

Dessert continues to remind us of a bit of sinful pampering. The latest trend, however, is for "healthier" desserts - fewer ingredients, less sugar... less sinful

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SWEET WITHOUT SIN | RECIPES

CASHEW CREAM & MATCHA CHEESECAKES Serves 6 INGREDIENTS: Base: 2 dates, pips removed 40g fine dessicated coconut 50g almonds 35g pistachio nuts 30ml (2 dessert spoons) coconut oil, melted 2,5ml (½ tsp) cinnamon 2,5ml (½ tsp) salt

This is a gluten-free cheesecake recipe, and if you replace mascarpone with coconut cream, also dairy-free. Matcha is a green tea powder available from health stores. The sweetness of the honey creates a perfect balance with the bitterness of the matcha and complements the delicate tea flavour.

Filling: 300g cashew nuts, soaked in water overnight 90ml coconut cream 25ml runny honey 10ml (2 tsp) vanilla essence 90ml coconut oil Topping: 250g mascarpone 10ml (2 tsp) matcha powder (optional) 15ml (1 dessert spoons) honey METHOD: 1. Line 6 individual ramekins or small baking tins (10cm diameter) with baking paper and spray well with cooking spray. 2. Base: Mix together all the ingredients in a food processor until it’s fine and crumbly. 3. Divide equally among the pans and press down firmly on the bottom to form a base. 4. Filling: Mix the cashew nuts, coconut cream, honey and vanilla essence together in the food processor (around 5 – 7 min) until very smooth. 5. Add the coconut oil and mix through. 6. Divide equally among the prepared baking pans and leave in the refrigerator for around 4 hours or until set. 7. Topping: Mix the mascarpone, matcha powder and honey in a large bowl. 8. Fill an icing bag with the mixture. 9. Decorate the individual set cheesecakes with the matcha cream, using a star nozzle to create pretty flowers. Cashew Cream and Matcha Cheesecakes

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RECIPES | SWEET WITHOUT SIN

ICE-CREAM THREE WAYS SERVED IN GLUTEN-FREE WAFFLE CONES GLUTEN-FREE AND LOW-CALORIE WAFFLE CONES

ICE-CREAM WITH AVOCADO, MINT AND LIME

BLACKBERRY AND BEETROOT YOGURT ICE-CREAM

Makes 8-10

Serves 4

Serves 4

INGREDIENTS: 100g almond flour 1g psyllium husks 1ml (¼ tsp) salt 2,5ml (½ tsp) vanilla essence 40g Erythritol of Xylitol (sweetener) 60g butter, melted 2 eggs 125ml (½ cup) milk

INGREDIENTS: 4 avocados, skins and stones removed 250ml (1 cup) cream or coconut cream large handful of mint leaves 40ml (2 tsp) lime juice grated rind of 3 limes 75g Erythritol of Xylitol (sweetener)

INGREDIENTS: 150g red beetroot 150g frozen blackberries small handful of mint leaves 40g Erythritol or Xylitol (sweetener) 250g mascarpone

METHOD: 1. Mix the almond flour, psyllium husks and salt in a large mixing bowl. 2. Mix the vanilla essence, sweetener, butter, eggs and milk together in a medium sized bowl. 3. Add the wet ingredients to the dry ingredients and mix together well. 4. Preheat the waffle iron over medium heat. 5. Use 30ml of the mixture at a time to form each individual waffle and bake for 2-4 min on each side or until golden. 6. Roll each waffle into a cone shape and set aside for 5-10 min. 7. Alternatively, keep them flat and serve the ice-cream on top. NOTE: For this recipe you need an Italian waffle pan, a pizelle.

METHOD: 1. Mix together all the ingredients in a food processor until smooth. 2. Fill a small non-stick bread baking tin with the mixture, cover with plastic wrap and freeze overnight. 3. Use a chilled ice-cream scoop or spoon to dish up the ice-cream and place in your cone or over waffle.

ICE-CREAM WITH BANANA, MANGO, TURMERIC, GINGER AND COCONUT Serves 4 INGREDIENTS: 350g bananas, cut into thick pieces and frozen 100g mango, peeled, flesh cut into large pieces and frozen 2,5ml (½ tsp) turmeric 5ml (1 tsp) ginger, finely chopped 60ml (¼ cup) coconut cream METHOD: 1. Mix together all the ingredients in a food processor until smooth. 2. Fill a small non-stick bread baking tin with the mixture, cover with plastic wrap and freeze overnight. 3. Use a chilled ice-cream scoop or spoon to dish up the ice-cream and place in your cone or over waffle.

SA CONNOISSEUR LOVES: How these desserts use healthy, good-for-you ingredients such as avocado, beetroot, ginger and tumeric. Plus choosing fats such as coconut butter and coconut oil contain lauric acid, which is thought to help strengthen our immune system and accelerate our metabolism. 1 8

SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

METHOD: 1. Preheat the oven to 200 °C. 2. Wrap each individual beetroot in foil and roast for 60 min or until cooked. 3. Remove from oven and allow to cool. Remove skins. 4. Mix the beetroot, blackberries, mint leaves, sweetener and mascarpone in a food processor until smooth. 5. Fill a small non-stick bread baking tin with the mixture, cover with plastic wrap and freeze overnight. 6. Use a chilled ice-cream scoop or spoon to dish up the ice-cream and place in your cone or over waffle.

RASPBERRY AND YOGURT ICE LOLLIES Serves 6 INGREDIENTS: 560g double-cream yogurt 90g honey grated rind of 2 limes 250g fresh raspberries METHOD: 1. Mix together the yogurt, honey and grated lime rind in a medium sized bowl. 2. Divide the mixture equally among the individual lolly containers (125 ml). 3. Mash the raspberries roughly with a fork, retaining some texture, and fill up each individual lolly. 4. Put a teaspoon into each lolly and freeze for 4 hours or overnight.


SWEET WITHOUT SIN | RECIPES

Ice-cream three ways served in gluten-free waffle cones

SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

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THIS MONTH'S SELECTIONS (TASTED OUT OF 20 WINES)

Platinum Club • Saxenburg Private Collection Shiraz 2008 R729 • Flagstone Music Room Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 R289 • The High Road Director’s Reserve 2015 R469 • Rijk’s Pinotage Reserve 2015 R469 • Wildekrans Chenin Blanc Barrel Select 2018 R369 • Neil Ellis Amica Wooded Sauvignon Blanc 2017 R250

SA’S TOP WINE PICKS

Reserve Club • Hillcrest Saartjie Cabernet Franc 2018 R224 • Wildekrans Pinotage Barrel Select 2016 R449 • Neil Ellis Stellenbosch Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 R180 • Flagstone Dark Horse Shiraz 2015 R275 • Stellenrust 54 Barrel Fermented Chenin Blanc 2018 R236 • DeMorgenzon Maestro White 2016 R225

Our panel’s TOP PICKS this month and a listing of the club selections

Flagstone Dark Horse Shiraz 2015 Reserve Club The complexity on the nose flows over to the palate. The wine is big and round on entry with smooth and silky tannins that show well even though the wine is still young. Nice fruit on the back palate combined with a well-balanced acidity that is responsible for a lingering finish and rounds off a perfectly balanced wine. PAIRING: Kudu fillet with couscous and a red wine reduction. Morgenster Tosca 2012 Wine-of-the-Month Club Typical Sangiovese warmth and elegance with silky tannins and elegant structure ensure that this wine, which

David Biggs

Margaret Fundira

Winnie Bowman

Colin Collard

is still in its infancy, will offer great pleasure in years to come. It is worth giving it time to mature in the bottle to experience its full array of tertiary notes. PAIRING: Caprese and other salads, hearty savoury risottos, light lunches and hard cheeses. Bruce Jack Reserve Pinotage 2018 Best Value Club Black cherry, plum, dark chocolate and spice on the nose introduce an explosion of black forest fruit on the palate, framed in chocolatey, toasty oak. PAIRING: Sushi and sashimi, as well as smoked duck and pulled pork dishes.

Claude Felbert

PJ ‘Buks’ Nel

Christine Rudman

Wine-of-the-Month Club • Strandveld Syrah 2017 R185 • Nitida Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 R149 • Morgenster Tosca 2012 R150 • Yonder Hill Inanda 2015 R185 • Ayama Leopard Spot 2019 R129 • Lomond Pincushion Sauvignon Blanc 2016 R149 • Bruce Jack Reserve Chardonnay 2019 • Doran L’Alliance 2017 R145 • Swartland Winemaker’s Collection Bouquet 2018 R69 • Balance Natural Sweet White NV R69 • Zandvliet Muscat de Frontignan 2018 R89 Best Value Club • Niel Joubert Porcini Merlot 2017 R109 • Simonsig Mr Borio Shiraz 2017 R105 • Bruce Jack Reserve Pinotage 2018 • Boland One Formation SGV 2016 R119 • Strydom Freshman Sauvignon Blanc 2019 R89 • Kumusha White 2017 R89 • De Wet Chardonnay 2019 R89 • Perdeberg Vineyard Collection Grenache Blanc 2019 R95 • Zandvliet Muscat de Frontignan 2018 R89 • Balance Natural Sweet White NV R69 • Swartland Winemaker’s Collection Bouquet 2018 R69

Gregory Mutambe

Clive Torr

To purchase these wines and more, call us on 021 492 4100 or email us at info@wineofthemonth.co.za WWW.WINEOFTHEMONTH.CO.ZA

Irina von Holdt

Tinashe Nyamudoka


We are told we should serve red wine with red meat and white wine with chicken or fish. What sort of wine would you serve with a traditional Indian dish like a korma or a Rogan Josh? Wine is not traditionally served with Indian food. These spicy dishes are sometimes accompanied by fruit juicebased drinks, so perhaps a light floral and fruity wine would be a suitable drink if you want to have a wine with your meal. We would suggest Bukkettraube or Gewürztraminer.

YOUR WINE FAQS YOUR WINE QUESTIONS ANSWERED

I was invited to several parties during the summer holidays and was always nervous about coming across a roadblock on the way home. What is a “safe” number of glasses of wine to drink before getting into trouble with the cops? There really is no such thing as a “safe” number of drinks before driving. The police have vowed to come down very hard on any drivers with alcohol in the bloodstream. It’s simply not worth the risk. Spending a night in a prison cell is no fun at all. It’s embarrassing and expensive. Repeated tests have shown that even one drink reduces your reaction time by a significant amount, even though you may feel perfectly fit to drive. The only answer we can give is “don’t drink any alcoholic drinks at all if you intend to drive afterwards.” If you do go to a party arrange to have a non-drinker drive you home, or order an Uber taxi for the home journey. Or you can simply stick to nonalcoholic drinks for the evening. Nobody need know your wine glass is full of apple juice. And, think of the fun you’ll have watching your friends make complete asses of themselves!

I have an irritating “ear-worm” buzzing in my head. It’s a silly song that says something about “I like Piña Colada and walking in the rain.” It’s driving me crazy. What the heck is a Piña Colada anyway? Piña Colada is a cocktail usually associated with tropical beaches and waving palm trees. It is made by mixing coconut cream, rum and pineapple juice, shaken with ice and served in a large glass (or coconut shell) and decorated with a slice of pineapple and one of those little bamboo umbrellas. We hope this cures the ear worm.

SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

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2020/01/31 12:16 PM


WINE | Panel Report

Into the

FUTURE With the new year on us we look at two exciting and challenging wine categories taking our wine industry forward with renewed vigour BY IRINA VON HOLDT CWM

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SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR


Panel Report | WINE

We see a BLOSSOMING of unusual white varieties COMING INTO THE MARKET

I

s wine for the élite, that is, exclusive and snooty? Or is it just like any other liquid that we pour down our throats without a second thought? Well, yes to both questions. Just as Humpty Dumpty told Alice that words can mean just what he chose them to mean, wine can be just what we want it to be, very exclusive or simply a regular glassful to accompany dinner or a hamburger. This wonderful drink can be whatever we want—while, of course, Coke can’t! To the panel, however, it’s endlessly fascinating to see styles come and go (whatever happened to Bouquet Blanc?) while others slowly evolve into something considerably more interesting. Without a doubt, the more you know the more you can enjoy. With some appreciation for the finer points of what’s in the glass, it’s much more fun. Rather like knowing something about vintage cars, for example. If we know how headlights evolved, we can date the models much more accurately. More info, more fun. With this in mind, both this month’s categories—Unusual Whites and NonBordeaux Style Red Blends—deliver wines that are often experimental and daring, sometimes brilliant, sometimes missing the mark, but always interesting and challenging. THE ‘UNUSUAL’ WHITES We see a blossoming of unusual white varieties coming into the market–Verdelho, Roussanne, Pinot Blanc and Grenache Blanc, together with old stalwarts like Pinot Grigio, Gewürztraminer and Viognier too. There are now so many Viogniers it’s

WINES TASTED BY THE PANEL UNUSUAL SINGLE CULTIVAR WHITES WINE-OF-THE-MONTH CLUB: Idiom Viognier 2016 ALSO LIKED: Joostenberg Myburgh Bros Viognier 2017, Piekenierskloof Grenache Blanc 2017, Simonsig Gewürztraminer 2017, Simonsig Verdelho 2015 WINES LISTED IN ALPHABETICAL ORDER: Anura Reserve Viognier 2016, Bosman Fides Grenache Blanc 2016, Eagle’s Nest Viognier 2017, Hermanuspietersfontein Witbroodjie 2016, Overhex Balance Limited Edition Pinot Grigio 2017, Nuy Inspiration Colombar 2017, Paul Cluver Gewürztraminer 2016, Radford Dale Thirst Clairette Blanche 2017, Simonsig Grenache Blanc 2015, Simonsig Grenache Blanc 2016, Simonsig Verdelho 2016, Simonsig Verdelho 2017, Van Loveren Neil’s Pick Colombar 2017, Van Loveren Pinot Grigio 2018, Whalehaven Unwooded Viognier 2017

SHIRAZ WINE-OF-THE-MONTH CLUB: Piekenierskloof Stone Dance Shiraz 2016 ALSO LIKED:Glenwood Vigneron’s Selection Shiraz 2016, Lyngrove Collection Shiraz 2016, Mount Vernon Three Peaks Shiraz 2017, Overhex Balance Winemaker’s Selection Shiraz 2016

hardly an unusual white anymore and we think it should be elevated to a category of its own. “The Viogniers and Sémillons shine through,” from an enthusiastic Clive. “Yes, but it’s very clear that with many of these 100% Viogniers they have to add acid,” says Claude, “and often too much, as it masks the flavours.”

WINES LISTED IN ALPHABETICAL ORDER: Almenkerk Syrah 2013, Almenkerk Syrah 2014, Bonnievale Barrel Select Shiraz 2015, Bonnievale Shiraz 2016, De Wet Shiraz 2017, Dornier Siren Syrah 2015, McGregor Shiraz 2016, Pearl Mountain Wagon Trail Shiraz 2014, Raka Biography Shiraz 2015, Strydom Rock Star Shiraz 2014, Van Loveren Tangled Tree Spicy Shiraz 2017, Waterkloof False Bay Old School Syrah 2017, Waterkloof Peacock Wild Ferment Syrah 2016


WINE | Panel Report

“At last I really like Viogniers,” adds Dave somewhat embarrassed. For a man who consistently said he really, really didn’t rate Viognier highly this is a big turnaround. And Pinot Grigio? “These are so boring and tasteless,” Irina grumbles. “I don’t know why anyone bothers to drink them.” “In the UK it’s supposed to be a super quaffer at £4.00 a bottle,” says Clive. “It’s not supposed to take your attention away from the food.” But Irina is not having any of it. “What’s the point?” she says. “I’d rather drink good Cape mountain water.” Clive quips: “Yeah, but remember some people even like lettuce.” There’s the regular grumble about low alcohols. Not that we are against low alcohols per se, but rather against tasteless, unripe wine. Winnie joins in: “There’s a difference between those with 11.5% and a proper low alcohol of 5 to 6%. These are just detracting from drinking pleasure.” “Let’s face it,” Irina says, “there’s a lot of interest in low alcohol wines now. We’ve seen some really good ones with

lots of flavour, so it’s possible to do. You have to design it from the ground up, though, starting in the vineyard.” The discussion moves on to the newer varieties and they’re found wanting. “I find the Grenache Blancs disappointing,” says Christine flatly. “And the single Roussannes and Verdelhos are really for blending,” says Irina. “They each bring something, but they’re not complete wines.” To sum up. Producers with something special work really hard at it, putting heart and soul into making good wines, but as they become less special over time so does the quality. ‘EXPERIMENTAL’ RED BLENDS Not exactly an experimental category, but there’s a lot of experimental blending going on here—Pinotage dominated blends, Cabernet blends and Rhône blends, at a quick glance. “Loads of interest,” says an elated Claude. “When I looked at the blends I thought they must simply be mixtures, but they aren’t, they really work.” “I found a lot that are really different,” says Dave. “Quite obviously not Bordeaux-style and I like them.” “But I liked those with Cab,” says Irina. “They have backbone and focus. But then I love Cab anyway.” “Nah, too much tannin,” says Dave. “I was charmed by these—they are savoury and spicy, with all sorts of lovely flavours, and they’re inventive,” says Clive. On another day we are less charmed. “A lot of thought went into these, but many are simply experimental,” says Colin. “I had the impression that some of these winemakers started out with wines that had a problem and then tried to correct it by blending,” says Dave.

WINES TASTED BY THE PANEL NON-BORDEAUX BLENDS WINE-OF-THE-MONTH CLUB: Alvi’s Drift Albertus Viljoen Bismarck 2015 ALSO LIKED: Alvi’s Drift Albertus Viljoen Bismarck 2014, Neil Ellis Aenigma Red 2015, Rickety Bridge Foundation Stone Red 2015, Rietvallei Shiraz Petit Verdot Viognier 2016 WINES LISTED IN ALPHABETICAL ORDER: Alvi’s Drift Albertus Viljoen Bismarck 2016, Bushmanspad The Menno 2015, DeMorgenzon Maestro 2015, Grangehurst Nikela 2007, Holden Manz Visionaire 2013, Joostenberg Estate Bakermat 2015, Leipzig Master Blend 2016, Leipzig SMV 2016, Metzer The Kitchen Sink Red 2016, Neil Ellis Rodanos 2012, Nietgegund Pro Amico 2013, Nuy Mastery Argilla 2015, Pulpit Rock Stories 2016, Romond Rebus Cape Cuvee 2011, Simonsvlei Hercules Paragon 2016

UNUSUAL RED WINE-OF-THE-MONTH CLUB: Idiom Zinfandel 2015

ALSO LIKED: De Krans Tinta Roriz 2016 , Raka Sangiovese 2015, Rainbow’s End Cabernet Franc 2016, Stellenrust Cinsaut 2016 WINES LISTED IN ALPHABETICAL ORDER: Anura Grenache 2014, Anura Tempranillo 2014, Boer and Brit The General 2014, Bosman Twyfeling Cinsaut 2016, De Krans Garden Route Pinot Noir 2016, Dornier Malbec 2015, Fairview Petite Sirah 2015, Hermanuspietersfontein Swartskaap 2014, Idiom Sangiovese 2015, Môreson Miss Molly Huntress 2015, Overhex Balance Limited Edition Cinsaut 2016, Overhex Balance Limited Edition Malbec 2016, Overhex Balance Winemaker’s Selection Pinot Noir 2016, Waterford Grenache Noir 2015, Waterford Elgin Pinot Noir 2016


Panel Report | WINE

Producers with SOMETHING SPECIAL work really hard at it, putting HEART AND SOUL into making good wines

Colin: “I like it when winemakers blend fruity Pinotage with something less so.” We get to that problem wine—Merlot… “When Merlot is added to the pot it ruins everything,” says Clive. “Those unripe tannins can spoil a blend very easily; even a relatively small percentage can ruin the entire blend.”

The variety that shines in red blends is Shiraz. But it must be admitted, not always. With its softer tannins and generous build, it is a perfect foil for adornments of Grenache, Mourvèdre, whatever. But Shiraz must be good. We’ve noticed a number of tough, uncharacteristic versions, however. “Generally Shiraz dominates,” says Buks. “But it’s a nice domination. Not this time, though. That said, I did find several Reserve-rated wines here, but not the show-stopper I was looking for.” So here’s the thing. This is a high-quality category that is still in transition and evolving, with show-stoppers yet to come. Watch this space. NOTE TO WINEMAKERS Keep going, you’re doing great. We’re watching with great expectations and, oh, ditch the Merlot.

To purchase these wines and more, head to our website www.wineofthemonth.co.za

Nestled between Elim and Cape Agulhas, and just 9km from the sea, lies the secluded Strandveld Vineyards. Driven by a deep passion for premium quality wines and the spirit of discovery, Strandveld Vineyards stands proudly as the southernmost winery in Africa. Unique in every sense of the word, our wines reflect their wild origins of diverse terroir and a cool, maritime climate through remarkable complexity and singularity.

This wind-swept winery derives its name from the belt of land which spans the tempestuous tip of Africa’s southernmost coastline. At almost 35 degrees below the equator, this part of our fair Cape is characterised by severe winds, billowing mist and below average temperatures. A unique combination of maritime climate, alternating sites and diverse soil types work together to create the terroir which distinguishes the wines of Strandveld Vineyards.

WWW.STRANDVELD.CO.ZA 028 482 1902 . info@strandveld.co.za .

FirstSightingWine .

strandveldvineyards


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CONNOISSEUR’S

CHOICE A SELECTION OF TOP WINES TO TRY

1. Iona Sauvignon Blanc 2019 (Price R159.99) Fragrance of pure white grapefruit, intense tropical fruit, ripe gooseberry and fleshy kiwi fruit overlay Iona’s distinctive herbal and floral undertones. The palate is keenly balanced showing cut green apples and lime marmalade. Drink in 10 years. PAIRING: Raw and lightly cooked shellfish, prawns and grilled fish.

2. De Grendel Koetshuis Sauvignon Blanc 2018 (Price R169.00) Clean nose displaying aromas of crisp pineapple, fresh papaya, Asian pears and an underlying creamy richness from extended lees contact. This is a complex and multidimensional wine. Drink in 3-4 Years. PAIRING: Vichyssoise, deepfried polenta and Parmesan fries, West Coast crayfish or a goat’s cheese and pear salad.

3. Lomond Pincushion Sauvignon Blanc 2016 (Price R149.00) The Lomond Pincushion Single Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2016 is brilliantly clear with a green hue. The bouquet is elegant, driven by minerality and citrus nuances. Tropical fruit flavours with a a hint of citrus on the tongue. Drink now. PAIRING: Pair with a cheese board or with Thai green curry dishes.

‘Fragrance of pure white grapefruit, intense tropical fruit, ripe gooseberry and fleshy kiwi fruit’ SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

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WINE | Connoisseur’s Choice

4. Hillcrest Saartjie Cabernet Franc 2018 (Price R224.00) Bright red colour. Chalky nose, with hints of peppery perfume and spicy notes and red berry fruits on the palate. Firm structure, soft tannins and long finish. Drink now or within a few years. PAIRING: Enjoy with butter chicken, oxtail, deep-fried goat’s cheese with a beetroot coulis, white fish and quiche.

7. Ayama The Leopard Spot 2019 (Price R129.00) The nose has bright green apple and mandarin orange aromas, with clean flavours of apple, mineral and a touch of peach. It typically has a lingering finish with a hint of licorice. Drink in the next 5 years. PAIRING: Pair with a wide variety of foods from fish dishes to rich meats like lamb and richly spiced dishes.

10. Kumusha White 2017 (Price R89.00) Ripe fruits on the nose. Apple, peach, lemon zest and winter melon which follow through on the palate. Integrated, rich and textured mouthfeel with a vibrant long finish. 48% Chenin Blanc, 25% Semillon, 17% Roussanne, 10% Viognier. Drink now or up to 2023. PAIRING: Macaroni and cheese with cauliflower, bacon, capers and sultana salsa.

5. Doran L’Alliance 2017 (Price R145.00) A lavish and weighty wine yet balanced by delicate acidity. It has layers of almonds, honey and pear flavours with a pleasant minerality adding a long finish. The grapes came from a bush vine vineyard comprising Chenin Blanc, Grenache Blanc and Roussanne. Drink in 3-5 years. PAIRING: Excellent with Asian cuisine, salads, light pastas and white meats.

8. De Wet Cellar Chardonnay 2019 (Price R89.00) Nicely layered in stone fruit, buttery aromas and a well-integrated citrus/ vanilla marriage. A well balanced fruit typicity carries over to the very drinkable mouthfeel. Drink in 3-4 years. PAIRING: Fresh caught Belman stuffed with tomato and onion, coarse salt and freshly grinded black pepper, braaied to perfection.

11. Kaapzicht Chenin Blanc 2018 (Price R150.00) Ripe quince, pineapple and stone fruit with some interesting savoury undertones. A lightly textured palate, with a hint of sweetness and balancing crunchy acid, results in a brisk finish. Some of the fruit has come from a vineyard planted in 1947. Drink now or in 2-4 years. PAIRING: Juicy poolside sipper, also a winner with al fresco meals.

6. Raka Sauvignon Blanc 2019 (Price R67.00) Pale straw colour with a lavish bouquet of grapefruit, kumquat, granadilla and a touch of gooseberries. The palate is complemented by mineral tones true to the decomposed sandstone. Crisp green apple finish. Drink now. PAIRING: Seawater fish, oysters, lobster and mussels, fish paella, asparagus or goat’s cheese. Also delightful on its own!

9. Wilderberg Underworld Red Blend 3 2018 (Price R195.00) Vibrant red berries including raspberry, cherry and cranberry on the nose with a peppery spice. Elegant soft tannins with a fresh acidity, balanced by juicy red fruit on the palate. Phenomenally tasty. Wonderfully tasty and 100% vegan. Drink within 2 - 3 years. PAIRING: Charcuterie , spicy meat dishes and Portobella mushroom burgers.

12. Rickety Bridge Chenin Blanc 2019 (Price R92.00) Inviting aromas of guava and white peach with underlying floral and green fig notes. A full, rich palate of tropical fruit, citrus and spice leads into a long honeyed finish. Grapes were selected from 46-year-old vines. Drink now or until the end of 2020. PAIRING: Sushi, shellfish, salads, Chinese cuisine and chicken dishes with a creamy sauce.

‘Vibrant red berries including raspberry, cherry and cranberry on the nose with a peppery spice’ 2 8

SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

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Connoisseur’s Choice | WINE

13. Saxenburg Private Collection Shiraz 2008 (Price R729.00) This 100 % Shiraz, with its warm spicy flavours and hints of coffee, strikes a fine balance between fruit and tannins, reflecting past experience and Saxenburg’s ongoing cellar and vineyard investments. Drink in 10+ years. PAIRING: Game or full-flavoured meat dishes and is ideal to mature and keep for those special winter occasions.

16. Stellekaya Hercules 2017 (Price R139.00) Notes of cherries, dark plum, tomato leaves and cracked pepper on the nose. The palate shows red cherry and soft plum flavours, tinged with tobacco spice and leather. Vibrant acidity and dry tannins. Drink now or in 4-6 years. PAIRING: Pairs well with Mediterranean foods, anti-pastas or veal with Parmesan shavings and truffle oil.

19. Bruce Jack Shiraz 2018 (Price R69.99) We love the raspberry, Indian spice and ripe plumb aromas. The palate is full and rich with dark chocolate, black forest fruit and smooth sexy tannins.

14. Rijk’s Pinotage Reserve 2015 (Price R469.00) Multi-layered red fruit aromas of cherry, strawberry and cranberry on the nose. Expressive aromas carry through onto a rich creamy palate, lingering long after. Silky, well integrated and elegant tannins show the perfect harmony and balance. Drink now or in 10 years. PAIRING: Grilled or slowcooked sausages, beef and lamb.

17. Bruce Jack Sauvignon Blanc 2019 (Price R69.99) The cool climate component from the Cape South Coast lends this wine intense crunchy green apple and lemon grass. The riper components provide juicy white peach and touch of citrus. Drink now or in 2 years. PAIRING: Seafood with Asian flavours such as lime, chilli and coriander or pea soups and dishes accompanied by pea purées too.

Grilled or slow-cooked sausages, beef and lamb, chicken, spaghetti with meatballs, spicy tomatillo and risotto appetizer.

15. Stellekaya Merlot 2018 (Price R146.00) A full-bodied wine with minty characters and loads of blackcurrants, hints of coffee and dry fruits. The balanced wood and acidity give this wine a well rounded lingering finish and a good cellaring potential. Drink now or in 4-6 years. PAIRING: Pairs well with berries and fruit, particularly red fruit sauces. Beef, grilled or roast beef and filet mignon.

18. Bruce Jack Chenin Blanc 2019 (Price R69.99) The older vineyard component was fermented in French barrels for depth and complexity. The wine shows exciting stone fruit aromas. The palate is a delicious medley of summer fruits and citrus. Drink now or in 3 years. PAIRING: Southeast Asian cuisine or pork chops with apples, roast chicken with roasted carrot, cauliflower and oyster mushroom.

21. Protea Chenin Blanc 2019 (Price R61.99) Appealing nose of nectarine, white peach and pear drop. In the mouth it is fresh and succulent with bright stonefruit - again peach and nectarine are obvious. Lively green melon and pear flavour too, with broad but gentle lees notes on the midpalate. Well balanced and tasty with a long, rewarding tail. Drink in 2-4 years. PAIRING: Pair with grilled fish.

Can be enjoyed now or cellared at a cool temperature for 5 years.

PAIRING: Game, duck, mushrooms, stews, veal and pastas with meat ragù or burgers and BBQ ribs. Grilled beef, lamb and other roasted or braised meats.

20. Bruce Jack Pinotage Malbec 2018 (Price R69.99) We love the fresh, intense cherry and dark chocolate aromas. The juicy soft palate is framed by warming vanilla and touch of oak. Can be enjoyed now or cellared at a cool temperature for 5 years. PAIRING:

‘Intense crunchy green apple and lemon grass’ SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

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WINE | Connoisseur’s Choice

22. Protea Sauvignon Blanc 2019 (Price R61.99) Aromas of stone fruit, nectarine and pear drops with a light brush of flint. Juicy palate that expresses abundant tropical flavours. The pear drop, nectarine and citrus typicity are easy to find. Bright and lively acidity balances the fruity tropicality, which makes for a fleshy, appealing mouthfeel. Drink in 2-4 years. PAIRING: Chicken pie, cream-based pasta and savoury soufflé.

23. Protea Pinot Grigio 2019 (Price R61.99) Stonefruit, peach and lemon aromas are overlaid by a gentle perfume. Vibrant tangy entrance to the palate with the same stonefruit, nectarine and lemon freshness immediately apparent. Bright, light and zippy with medium body, concentration and length. An ideal summertime sipper. Drink in 2-4 years. PAIRING: Pairs well with salmon, seafood, white fish and poultry.

24. Protea Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 (Price R69.99) Bold blueberry and ripe raspberry aromas. The palate is juicy and light with an abundance of supple blue and red berry fruit as well as deeply alluring with darker liquorice, earth and graphite flavours below. It’s vivacious but also serious with a considered dry, tannic element underpinning it. Drink in 3-5 years. PAIRING: Pair with beef, charcuterie, game birds and lamb.

Did you Know? You can join our Olive Oil Club today and receive the best local olive oils and olive oil products from around South Africa. You can choose how often you would like to receive them and they’ll be delivered to your door. Call: 021 492 4100 | Website: www.wineofthemonth.co.za To purchase these wines and more, head to our website www.wineofthemonth.co.za

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2020/01/31 12:16 PM


Who’s Afraid

OF THE BIG BAD WINE? alf my family members were strict Calvinists and fiercely anti-alcohol, and the rest were rather fond of a spot of alcoholic cheer after a hard day’s work. The result of all this division was that we kids grew up knowing there were times when people sat sipping a relaxing glass in cheerful company in the lounge and other times when drinking was done furtively behind closed bedroom doors. One uncle was a firebrand preacher who insisted on Bible readings and prayers every evening during his occasional visits to the farm. When he was a house guest there was never a bottle of anything stronger than orange squash on display. Bottles of anything stronger were quietly moved to the bedroom for secret consumption. I’ve often thought about this and considered it strange that anybody should be so afraid of alcoholic drinks. Every population throughout history

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has found a way to make some form of alcoholic drinks. Prehistoric cavedwellers probably discovered that if you crushed ripe fruit and left it in a calabash for long enough it caused you to do interesting things like dance and sing and make uninhibited love. Oriental folk created rice wine, African tribes brewed sorghum beer, Russians made vodka from potatoes, and elephants in Mpumalanga partied in the moonlight after eating fermented marula berries. The ancient Greeks and Romans were enthusiastic vintners and the very earliest form of writing— Sumerian cuneiform letters pressed into clay tablets—turned out to be records of good and bad wine vintages. Alcohol has played an important role in almost every religion throughout the millennia. It has even been dubbed “aqua vitae”, the water of life. It is strange, then, that there is a constant rumble of disapproval wherever alcohol

is enjoyed. The reason, of course, is that, like so many of life’s gifts, alcohol can be dangerous if used incorrectly. But so can motoring, scuba diving, mountaineering and skiing. It’s not cars that kill pedestrians; it’s careless drivers and stupid pedestrians. It’s not knives that kill people, it’s the angry criminals who use them for the wrong reasons. Cars and knives play an essential role in our daily lives. We seldom hear of marching mobs demanding the banning of cars or knives. So, rather than rant about the evils of the demon alcohol, let’s teach our children about the history and benefits of the “water of life”. Maybe wine appreciation should be introduced as a school subject. In fact, there are several sensible schools that have already introduced it into their curricula. Cheers to them!

Illustration by: Chloé Damstra

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Dave Biggs on why we’re still stuck on the evils of alcohol

SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

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It runs in our Vines.

Our creativity continues to strike gold with eighteen

Gold medals, two Double Golds, a Top White Blend in the Novare SA Terroir Awards, a Top 12 in the SA Shiraz

Challenge and a Top 10 winner in the Standard Bank Chenin Blanc Challenge. Let’s not forget our win of the prestigious General Smuts Trophy for our Sauvignon Blanc at the Young Wine Show. Find a winner to suit your taste.

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2020/01/29 8:14 AM


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