SA Connoisseur - Issue 278, Oct/Nov 2019

n e r u u B n a Mark v ANTHONIJ RUPERT’S

SOUTH AFRICAN

CONNOISSEUR www.wineofthemonth.co.za

EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Colin Collard ART DIRECTOR Taryn Breetzke DESIGNER Chloe Damstra WINE BUYER/PUBLISHER Natalie Collard WINE TASTINGS/ ASSISTANT TO BUYER/ ADMINISTRATOR Dean Townsend REGULAR CONTRIBUTORS Articles—David Biggs & Irina von Holdt OTHER CONTRIBUTORS Lorraine Lines (Consultant)

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drawn after the closing date. The judges’ decision is final and no correspondence will be entered into. The prize is not transferable and may not be converted into cash. If the winner has not responded to our announcement, via their contact details provided, within three months of the competition’s closing date, Connoisseur will send the prize to the next available winner. Employees of Converge (Pty) Ltd, Connoisseur, their families, their agencies, Connoisseur contributors, and any other parties associated with the competition may not enter. Entrants to regular competitions may only win once. SMS entries cost R1.00 each. Competitions are for South African residents only.

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08 CONTENTS 05 WHAT’S ON? EVENTS IN AND AROUND SA 06 WINE & DINE: WHAT’S NEW IN FOOD AND DRINK 08 WE CHAT TO MARK VAN BUUREN OF ANTHONIJ RUPERT WYNE 10 FUN WINE FARM ADVENTURES 12 WAIT, ALL WINES AREN’T VEGAN? 14 HOW RED WINE COULD BEAT THE BLUES 16 THE WINE AWARDS: TOP CHENINS, RED BLENDS AND PINOTAGES

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THREE RECIPES FROM CHEF NTI’S MY MODERN AFRICAN KITCHEN THIS MONTH’S WINNING WINES YOUR WINE QUESTIONS ANSWERED THE LATEST PANEL TASTINGS CONNOISSEUR’S CHOICE: A SELECTION OF TOP WINES TO TRY DON’T SWEAT THE SMALL STUFF SAYS DAVID BIGGS

ON THE COVER Discover the Cape of Good Hope Wines on p.08

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Try this Goat’s Cheese & Fig Tart on p.18

All your favourite vegan wines on p.12

A Franschhoek Winemaker, a Sowetan Chef and a Couple of Drunk Mice On this month’s cover we feature Cape of Good Hope Wines—by far the most exciting, rewarding and challenging range of Anthonij Rupert Wyne, according to winemaker Mark van Buuren. On p.08 Mark tells us “great wine is 99% vineyard, 1% cellar”.

From Franschhoek to Soweto, on p18 we share three delicious recipes from the multi-talented Nthabiseng Ramaboa. After journeying halfway across the world and a stint in business and fashion, Chef Nti is back in her colourful kitchen. Get a taste of how Nti stays true to her roots with recipes from her first cookbook My Modern African Kitchen on p.06.

From Nti’s tasty Boerewors Shakshuka to the opposite side of the eating spectrum… a selection of vegan wines. But wait, aren’t all wines vegan? Nope, vegan and non-vegan wine lovers will be a little surprised at what can be found in a glass of wine.

Cheer up, buttercup. New studies show that the resveratrol compound found in red wine may help with the treatment of depression and anxiety. Studies have been done on some boozed up mice only, but the findings are seemingly positive. As if we needed a reason to drink red wine—just fill the glass and we feel better already. (p.14) Finally, wine award season is here. The top Pinotages, Red Blends and Chenin Blancs. The good news for members is that the Wine-ofthe-Month Club has put together packs of all the winners. Make sure to order these best of the bests now (p.16).

There’s more, of course. Not forgetting valuable information on all the latest and greatest in wine.

Yours cordial(ly),

CHAIRMAN OF WINE-OF-THE-MONTH CLUB We sit down with Mark van Buuren on p.08

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T H E N O V E M B E E R F E S T I VA L , 2 5 - 2 6 N O V E M B E R Looking to taste a different kind of brew? Head to the Stellenbosch NOVEMBEER FESTIVAL and sip on some buds that are a little out of the ordinary and often difficult to find. In addition to tasting these unique beers, you can also enjoy delicious food and a jam packed weekend of live entertainment. www.root44.co.za

T h e C o n s t a n t i a G i f t F a i r, 6 - 1 2 N o v e m b e r Skip the dreaded

Christmas rush and crowded malls, and rather do all your gift buying at THE CONSTANTIA GIFT FAIR instead. A lifestyle event full of inspirational ideas and handpicked products that allow you to shop outdoors, soak up the sunshine and let your kiddies come along for some fun. A small entrance fee is payable with all donations going to the SARDA Riding School—where the event will be taking place. www.thegiftfair.co.za

WHAT’S ON Festivals and Events Around SA

FICKSBURG CHERRY FESTIVAL, 21-25 NOVEMBER The lil’ Free State spot of Ficksburg is known as the cherry town of South Africa. The oldest crop festival in SA, it is packed full of fun activities which include cherry tours, golf games, a half marathon, veteran vehicle displays, equestrian events, beer tents—and, of course, them cherries! www.cherryfestival.co.za

RMB WINEX, 30 OCTOBER-1 NOVEMBER Now in its 18th year, one of SA’s most premier wine shows always delivers Jozi’s wine lovers the greatest vino selection under one roof. The Sandton Convention Centre will host more than 150 exhibitors representing all the big brand names, boutique wineries and wine routes. Leave a little space for charcuterie, cheeses, olives, chocolate and nougat too. www.winex.co.za

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BOSJES photos courtesy of Claire Gunn & Adam Letch

WINE & DINE | What’s New

SOMETHING NEW BREWING AT BOSJES

Photo courtesy of Georgia East

There’s a newfound energy abuzz at the Breede River Valley eatery BOSJES KOMBUIS. An all-new team with Chef Nicholas Oosthuizen and his wife Julandi Oosthuizen are now at the helm. The culinary couple moved from the acclaimed Foliage in Franschhoek and have a long list of winelands experience. Food critic, recipe developer and award-winning food stylist Abigail Donnelly has also joined the team. “At heart BOSJES Kombuis is a farm kitchen,” says Chef Nicholas, “but we’re creating elevated bistro-style cuisine that will set BOSJES apart in the valley.” Best you book your spot at www.bosjes.co.za

WINE & DINE What’s New in Food and Wine

Lunching Alfresco in the City

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Cape Town’s Kloof Street favourite, JANSE & CO, has launched an all-new a la carte lunch menu for Fridays and Saturdays. The menu includes an assortment of new signature dishes that continue to make this inner-city spot popular. Some of the must-try dishes include: Fromage Blanc Cheese served with freshly baked breads, Moskonfyt and Fynbos Glazed Quail and Afrikoa Chocolate Terrine for sweets. Pop in for a quick Friday work lunch or enjoy a slow Saturday feast in the outside courtyard. For more information and to book online go to www.janseco.com

A Sensible San Fran Wine Bar

The newest wine bar from Lindsay and Michael Tusk (famous for their Michelin-starred restaurant Quince) sees the couple apply their talents to a new San Francisco and French-style wine bar. VERJUS serves (and sells) hundreds of natural wines focusing on smallscale, independent growers who farm organically and produce wines with minimal additives.

“The way we select our wines mimics the sensibility of how we buy our ingredients in our kitchens,” says Lindsay. See you there. 528 Washington St, San Francisco, CA 94111, United States

What’s New | WINE & DINE

A Real South African Cookbook

Drawing inspiration from Soweto, Mama D and her gran’s cooking, Chef Nti realised that in order to talk to a new generation she had to reinvent these flavours in a fresh, innovative way.

CHEF NTI - MY MODERN AFRICAN KITCHEN embraces this concept, celebrating food that is proudly South African. ‘It’s important to me that my first cookbook celebrates maize, not only as an essential part of South African culinary heritage but also as one of the few equalisers in our beautiful and diverse country. I want to instill a sense of pride in what we grew up eating,’ says Nti. Turn to p.18 for a selection of our favourite recipes from My Modern African Kitchen.

Photo courtesy of Georgia East

That’s Our Girl!

News close to our hearts. Local freelance wine journalist MALU LAMBERT has been awarded the title Montblanc Emerging Wine Writer of the Year for 2019. Entries were judged in London by a panel of industry heavyweights who assessed over 600 entries from writers all over the world. But it was Malu’s emotive piece on Clairette Blanche in South Africa that officially won the judges’ hearts. Malu got her start as a features writer for the Wine-of-the-Month Club’s previous publication Good Taste magazine. Since then she has gone on to work for numerous titles, as well as winning Veritas Young Wine Writer in 2015. Well done, Malu!

THE G TO YOUR T A handsome new gin on the block, DISTILLERY ROAD blends contemporary taste with a classic London-style dry gin. This delicious gin leads with top notes of lime and coriander on the nose, followed with cracked black pepper and a hint of ginger on the palate to create a distinct warm and rounded mouthfeel.

Distillery Road is available at most bottle stores from R239.

WHICH AIRLINE HAS THE BEST WINES? Nothing helps to pass the time on a long flight like a fine wine, don’t you think? Now, thanks to the CELLARS IN THE SKY annual awards we can choose airlines with the best wine lists. A total of 33 airlines entered this year’s international awards. Qantas cleaned up by taking the gold medal for Best Overall Cellar. It also took the top spot in the First Class Cellar and White Wine Categories and Business Class Fortified/Dessert Wine Category, as well as having the best presented first-class wine list. Qantas, again, together with Air France and Cathay Pacific shared the top spot in the best First Class Sparkling Wine Category.

Cathay Pacific took the top spot in the Best Business Class Red Wine Category and Malaysia Airlines won for its First Class Red Wine List. Qatar Airways took the top spot in the Business Class Sparkling Wine Category, while ANA won for its First Class Fortified/Dessert Wine List.

Now what happened to that drinks trolley?

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PROFILE | ANTHONIJ RUPERT

‘Great wine

is 99%

VINEYARD,

’I’m constantly searching for that pot of gold at the end of the rainbow’

1% cellar’

We sit down with Mark van Buuren, white winemaker at Anthonij Rupert Wyne

H

ow did you first get into wine?

Growing up, I had no idea what to do for a career. People constantly reminded me of what I really loved— sport. At the time, my brother was studying fruit farming at Elsenburg College and my mother pointed out that the institution was renowned for its winemaking course. So I chatted with Francois Naude at L’Avenir, and Beyers Truter at Kanonkop.

I liked what I heard and saw. But after my studies at Elsenburg it took doing two vintages in France for the bug to really bite.

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Can you remember the first glass of good wine you had? One of my first wine memories was a Hartenberg Bin 9 at a restaurant in Cape Town. It was delicious. Then, I’ll always remember a 1995 Chateau Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande from Pauillac, France. I also remember the first near perfect wine that blew me away was a 1996 Chateau Latour, again from Pauillac, France.

What do you love most about winemaking? The people. It is a beautiful industry filled with beautiful people. Winemaking has also introduced me to an incredible new world of cultures and places that have had an enormous impact on my life.

What is your role at Anthonij Rupert? I am based at the Terra del Capo cellar and responsible for the production of all the white and rosé wines in the company—excluding MCC production.

What sets Anthonij Rupert wines apart? Great wines come from great vineyards. There’s nothing new about that idea but that’s what we concentrate on. Chris and Suzaan Alheit from Alheit Vineyards sum it up perfectly: “Great wine is 99% vineyard, 1% cellar.” I think they’re 100% right.

We go to great lengths to source the best vineyards in the Cape and pay close attention to how these vineyards are managed. We uproot

ANTHONIJ RUPERT | PROFILE

infected vines, and make wines from only the healthiest vines. We’ve also done extensive research to ensure the right varietals are growing in the right sites.

And the Cape of Good Hope range?

As a winemaker, this is by far the most exciting, rewarding and challenging range to make. The wines should be expressive of their environment and the varietals they are made from. I hope people get a sense of the places and people behind them.

Besides good value, what makes your wines special? The great team of people behind them—from the men and women working long hours in the vineyards to the team involved in finally bottling the wines. We do things with passion and to the best of our ability. Quality is what we strive for.

The most interesting part of your job? I love the people I work with. And the environment I work in daily is just beautiful.

And the hardest? The challenge of doing justice to the fruit I get to work with. Wine will always be greater than us. Producing the best wines we possibly can is always top of my mind.

I’m constantly searching for that pot of gold at the end of the rainbow.

Any wines you have a soft spot for?

Our Chardonnay from our Altima farm in Elandskloof is the wine that keeps my mind ticking over at all time.

What is your favourite Anthonij Rupert food and wine pairing? Our Terra del Capo restaurant makes a great Deep Fried Salt & Pepper Squid. Pairing this dish with Altima Sauvignon Blanc is a winner.

In 2006 Johann Rupert initiated the search for all South African vineyards older than 40 years. The objective of this project is to encourage farmers to keep these vineyards, or pieces of history, in the ground by offering the farmers a premium for their fruit.

Although the yield per hectare becomes lower with age, the quality of the fruit increases drastically and the wines offer more complexity and structure. The “Cape of Good Hope” project strives to vinify these old blocks separately and attempts to express the terroir of the vineyards through the vine. The wines are distinguished by their specific certified origins within the wine growing regions of the Cape of Good Hope. Soil type, climatic conditions, vineyard site, aspect and varietal all combine to create this distinctive wine of exceptional character.

Mark lives in Franschhoek with his wife, Tanya and three children, Daniel, James and Emma—and a golden retriever called Maggie.

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Wild

Winelands

A Slick New Ride

Heard of a Segway? These are the coolest contraptions to zoot around Spier’s beautiful grounds. The two-wheeled, self-balancing personal transporters allow you to glide past the Stellenbosch estate’s best spots and weave in between the leafy trees and vineyards. Rest your wheels and stop for a wine tasting. Spier’s Segway Tours start at R295pp.

Visit www.spier.co.za.

Getting in and around the grapes

M

any of us enjoy a Chardonnay from the comfort of a chair overlooking the vineyards. You might prefer to get down and dirty, though, and explore the winelands by foot, bike or horse. Here are a few ways to expose yourself to beautiful Cape scenery, your favourite refreshment never being far away.

SWEAT FOR YOUR SAUVIGNON BLANC

LEARN AS YOU HIKE AT LA MOTTE Like to learn more about the flora and fauna of the area? Then opt for a guided hike every Monday at LA MOTTE. The farm’s tour guides will show you the way and you’ll also receive a hiking trail map, a bottle of water and, afterwards, light refreshments at the lapa. If you’d prefer to explore in a small group, La Motte also offers a 5km route that has a 2km grade 1B rating. Which means you’ll have to be fairly fit to complete it.

Go to www.la-motte.com.

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For the ultimate hiking, running or mountain biking adventure, Stellenbosch’s ZEVENWACHT offers a 14 km trail with a diverse terrain. From fynbos to a tranquil forest area, this is the ultimate way to experience the farm’s natural surroundings. After working up a sweat, stretch those hammies and treat yourself to one of Zevenwacht’s prized picnics. Go to www.zevenwacht.co.za.

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Bike Through Boschendal

After hosting part of the Cape Epic, BOSCHENDAL has now opened their MTB trails to the public. The estate’s world-class black route is designed for advanced riders—with other routes better suited to families and casual riders. Afterwards eat all the calories you can with breakfast at the Deli or lunch at The Werf. The daily rate is R50 per rider and the paths are open 365 days from 8am-5pm. Visit www.boschendal.com.

Photo by: Boschendal Wine Farm

RED WINE & HORSE RIDES JOURNEY’S END offer outrides that meander through vineyards and the surrounding wine farms Mount Rozier, Highberry and Journey’s End itself. The natural bird life and sweeping mountain views add to the tranquillity of a charming horse ride. Experienced riders can go for a quick canter while beginners can continue at a more leisurely pace.

Afterwards, dust off your jods and sip on something delicious.

Visit www.horsebackrides.co.za.

Photo by: Madelein Wolfaardt

More Bike Trails

Mountain bike trails have been a big part of MEERENDAL for several years. The estate often hosts bike races such as the Cape Epic. All the trails are graded from easy to medium, and have been designed for the whole family to enjoy. The route is made up of three inter-leading trails of 4km, 12km and 18km and, depending on your pace, take 1-2 hours to complete. Meet you at the bar after? Go to www.meerendal.co.za.

HORSE TAILS AND MOUNTAIN TRAILS Starting at DIEMERSFONTEIN’S stables, one-hour to half or full day trails wind their way through vineyards, olive groves and natural fynbos. You can make your way to the foothills of the Hawequa Mountains while admiring the beautiful views of the valleys below. Enjoy a glass or two while your steed grazes or finish the day off with a hearty meal at Aan Tafel Restaurant.

Visit www.diemersfontein.co.za.

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WINE | Vegan Wines

WHAT, ALL WINES AREN’T

Some of the surprising non-vegan ingredients in your favourite tipple

T

he strange truth is that many wines are not vegan. Now, for non-vegans this makes no difference. However, for those following a strict plant-based diet, including never enjoying a grilled chop or crispy piece of bacon, it can add to their world of deprivation.

To be fair, vegetarians and your runof-the-mill carnivores might never have suspected that animal products lurk in their wine cellar. After all, isn’t wine just delicious fermented grape juice? Well, not exactly.

So Why Is Wine Not Vegan?

Many wine producers use animal by-products to act as a filter for particles that impact a wine’s flavour, colour or appearance. These animal-derived products also act as fining agents that help eliminate certain yeasts, proteins and molecules that winemakers don’t want in the final product. These byproducts can be anything from (brace yourself) boiled fish bladders, shellfish fibres and fish oil to gelatin, egg whites and milk protein. Sounds delicious.

On top of this, SA wine producers are not legally required to list the ingredients on their wine labels either—which means that very few winemakers choose to 1 2

SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

Waterkloof Sauvignon Blanc 2017 (Price R275)

Boschkloof Conclusion 2016 (Price R369)

include everything that goes into making their wines. Plus, what sane winemaker would want to list fish bladders under grapes? And, anyway what sane winelover would want to read this halfway through their second glass of Cab? Good News For Lettuce Lovers The good news for vegans—and our planet, but don’t get us started on meat Creation Reserve consumption and global warming—is Chardonnay 2017 (Price R335) that more and more local winemakers are using non-animal alternatives.

Reyneke Organic Clay-based fining agents like bentonite, Biodynamic White 2017 limestone and activated charcoal tend (Price R73.99) to work just as well. Plus, producers and IN THE MEANTIME, HERE IS A LIST OF A FEW OF wine drinkers are happy to report that OUR FAVOURITE VEGAN WINES: these wines lack nothing in terms of • Waterkloof Sauvignon Blanc flavour, colour and appearance. Upping • Delheim Pinotage Rosé the ante—and cleverly catering for this • Neethlingshof Cabernet Sauvignon growing demographic—some wine • Middelvlei Free-Run Pinotage estates, such as Delheim and Stellar • Glen Carlou Syrah • Granite Earth Swartland, South Africa 2017 Organics in Stellenbosch, have chosen to • Graham Beck Brut Rosé produce only vegan friendly wines.

• D’aria Wines The Songbird Sauvignon Blanc 2018 If you’re a vegan or have a vegan • Arendsig Chardonnay 2018 family member or friend coming to • Boschkloof Wines • Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot 2018 dinner, visit www.barnivore.com or • Jordan Wines Chameleon Sauvignon Blanc/Chardonnay 2018 www.vegansa.com for a comprehensive • Mullineux & Leeu Family Wines Kloof Street Chenin Blanc list of South African vegan wines. In the • Diemersdal Wine Estate Merlot 2018 land of chops and boerewors, you’ll be • Mullineux & Leeu Family Wines White Blend 2018 pleasantly surprised at how many farms • Creation Chardonnay 2018 • Hermanuspietersfontein Bloos 2019 cater for vegans.

• Buitenverwachting Wine Estate Buiten Blanc 2018 • Reyneke Organic Biodynamic Chenin Blanc 2018

In the October bo x...

Dear

GINTHUSIAST

Every month we select one of South Africa’s finest small batch craft gins with a specially handpicked range of gourmet treats, tonics, cocktail ideas and other goodies to complement each gin.

Choose to receive your gin box monthly, bi-monthly or quarterly.

Unit 43 Gin, Chinc - The Prospector Tonic Waterhona Premium Indian s, & Macadam Wedgewood Lemon Butter Shor ia Cherubs Honey Coriander tbread, Root stock and Crisps, RosePaprika Potato Confectionas Artisanal Fudge and ry Orange a dehydrated packet of naar garnish. tjie

Join The Gin Box today!

www.theginbox.co.za ◆ 021 492 4126 ◆ info@theginbox.co.za

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Red Wine Beats

THE BLUES?

F

or a number of years resveratrol (a plant compound found in the seeds of grapes and berries) has been linked to many health benefits.

From improving cardiovascular health and high blood pressure to increasing fertility and aiding weight loss—there are plenty of reasons to drink red wine often.

Now, a new study published in the medical journal Neuropharmacology, suggests red wine may even help treat anxiety and depression. And, with over 300 million of the world’s population

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suffering from some form of depression or anxiety, this finding could be something to take note of.

Stress can lead to excessive amounts of the hormone corticosterone circulating in the brain, which ultimately leads to depression. As it happens, the hormone helps regulate response to stress in both humans and rodents. So researchers from Xuzhou Medical University in China injected mice with the hormone. Interestingly, they found that high doses of resveratrol blocked the C 4 (PDE4) enzyme, a byproduct of corticosterone, and helped put anxious mice at ease.

“Resveratrol may be an effective alternative to drugs for treating patients suffering from depression and anxiety disorders,” says lead study author Dr. Ying Xu. Before you crack open a magnum bottle of Shiraz after a long, hard day, it’s important to note that the mice were given 10mg of resveratrol per kilogram of their body weight. For the same treatment to be effective in an average man or woman, to have the same mood lifting results we would have to consume litres and litres of the good stuff.

However, until further research is conducted on humans (where do we sign up?) we are happy to raise a glass of red to these newfound health benefits.

Illustration by: Chloé Damstra

A new study shows red wine might help treat depression and anxiety

SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

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WINE-OF-THEMONTH CLUB EXCLUSIVE

Bruce Jack Heritage Collection

unusually rare, ultra-premium, one-of-a-kind wines

Certified Single Vineyard only 3 barrels produced Highly rated 92 points

Last Vintage of Elim Cabernet Sauvignon only 3 barrels produced

Certified Old Vineyard Planted in 1962 Highly rated 93 points

Certified Single Vineyard only 3 barrels produced High-Altitude, Cool Climate

Highly Rated 93 points 17 years in barrel

Unique Blend excellent Breedekloof fruit

GET YOUR HERITAGE PACK FOR ONLY R1878.95 EXCLUSIVELY AVAILABLE FROM WINE-OF-THE-MONTH CLUB Tel: 021 492 4100 • info@wineofthemonth.co.za • www.wineofthemonth.co.za CALL AND ORDER NOW TO AVOID DISAPPOINTMENT

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2019/09/27 1:24 PM

WINE | Wine Awards

The Wine Awards: TOP CHENINS, RED BLENDS AND PINOTAGES How to order complete packs of all the winning wines

TOP 10 CHENINS

Quite the line-up, the winners of this year’s STANDARD BANK CHENIN BLANC TOP 10 CHALLENGE were selected from 150 entries that were submitted by 87 producers. The majority of the top ten were sourced from vines 30 years and older—including one that was made from vines planted 55 years ago.

The winners, in alphabetical order are: • Cederberg Cellars Five Generations Chenin Blanc 2017 • DeMorgenzon Reserve Chenin Blanc 2018 • Durbanville Hills Collector’s Reserve The Cape Garden Chenin Blanc 2018 (new) • Flagstone Winery Tributary Bush Vine Chenin Blanc 2018 (new) • Ken Forrester Wines The FMC 2018 (new)

• • • •

Kleine Zalze Family Reserve Chenin Blanc 2018 Kleine Zalze Vineyard Selection Chenin Blanc 2018 Rijk’s Cellar Touch of Oak Chenin Blanc 2017 Slanghoek Wynkelder Legends Barrel Fermented Chenin Blanc 2017 • Stellenrust The Mothership Chenin Blanc 2018

Get your pack of the 10 winning wines for R2779 from Wine-of-the-Month Club.

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WINES | Wine Awards PINOTAGES ON TOP The aim of the ANNUAL TOP TEN PINOTAGE competition is to identify

South Africa’s benchmark Pinotages for the continued development of the varietal—and to illustrate its uniqueness to the rest of the wine world. “Each year the winners keep getting better and better, coming a long way since we partnered with the Pinotage Association back in 1998,” says Colin Collard of the Wine-of-the-Month Club.

The winners, in alphabetical order: • Anura Reserve Pinotage 2016 • Badsberg Pinotage 2018 • Beyerskloof Winemaker’s Reserve Pinotage 2017 • Vondeling Bowwood Pinotage 2016 • Diemersdal Reserve Pinotage 2018 • Fleur du Cap Series Privée Pinotage 2016 • Kanonkop Pinotage 2015 • Simonsig Redhill Pinotage 2017 • Survivor Pinotage 2017 • Wildekrans Barrel Select Reserve Pinotage 2016 This unique pack is exclusively available from the Wine-of-the-Month Club for R2899.

Blends to Beat Them All

Now in its ninth year, the 2019 ABSA PEROLD CAPE BLEND AWARDS culminated in honouring five incredible South African blends—each comprising a minimum of 30% and no more than 70% Pinotage. The 10 finalists this year are from five different regions, including Stellenbosch, Wellington, Botrivier, West Coast and Robertson.

The winners, in alphabetical order are: • Asara Vineyard Collection Cape Fusion 2016 • Clos Malverne Spirit of Malverne Limited Release 2015 • Kaapzicht Steytler Vision 2017 • KWV Abraham Perold Tributum 2012 • Wildekrans Cape Blend Barrel Select Reserve 2016 Get the Absa Perold Cape Blends Pack for R2179, exclusively available through Wineof-the-Month Club.

To purchase these awards packs and more, call us on 021 492 4100 or email us at info@wineofthemonth.co.za WWW.WINEOFTHEMONTH.CO.ZA

SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

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My modern AFRICAN KITCHEN

After a long, meandering journey halfway around the world, Nti Ramaboa was led right back to the kitchen where it all started. Here, we share some of our favourite recipes from Chef Nti 's new cookbook, My Modern African Kitchen

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Chef Nti Ramaboa says her sharpest memory of the four-roomed house in Tladi, Soweto, where she grew up, is food.

"It attracted strangers whom we ended up knowing as uncles and aunts, only to learn later in life that we were not even related. They were lured by the aromatic and fragrant dishes my late grandmother would generously whip up."

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n

'I love quick wins in the kitchen – now, this is my go-to when I have unexpected guests and I need to impress…'

GOAT’S CHEESE AND FIG TART WITH CARAMELISED ONION Serves: 8 INGREDIENTS: 1 tbsp olive oil 1 cup onion, thinly sliced 1 tbsp butter 2 tbsp brown sugar 1 tbsp balsamic vinegar 400g puff pastry 200g goat’s cheese, crumbled 6 fresh figs, sliced METHOD: 1. In a heavy-based pan, heat the oil and sauté the onion over a low to medium heat. Cook gently for 10 min until soft and translucent.

2. Add the butter, sugar and balsamic vinegar.

3. Continue to cook over low heat, stirring frequently, for 20–30 min until onions are very soft, caramelised and jam-like.

4. Set aside to cool.

5. Preheat oven to 180˚C. 6. Roll out the pastry, according to package instructions, and trim and shape it into a 20cm-diameter circle.

7. Spread the onion mixture onto the pastry base, then top with most of the goat’s cheese, sliced figs and more cheese.

8. Crimp the edges in about 8 places and place on a baking sheet.

9. Bake for 20–25 min, until golden and crisp.

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'When you’re in LA, you learn very quickly that you really are free to explore and do things differently. There are always 50 more ways one can treat a product. I would think to myself, ‘They sold us yoghurt in South Africa, but no one showed us what you could do with it.’ And that’s where I saw a gap when I came back home. At the time, not many brands were making the effort to teach their consumers how to enjoy their products. My first campaign was with Mayo drinking yoghurt, and this is what gave birth to Chef Nti, the influencer. I’d make these breakfast barks for our road shows and people would be amazed by what you could do with yoghurt'

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BREAKFAST BARK Serves: 8

METHOD: 1. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

INGREDIENTS: 1½ cups plain Greek yoghurt ½ cup breakfast cereal (I use muesli) ½ cup blueberries ½ cup strawberries, sliced

2. Pour the yoghurt onto the baking sheet and spread it neatly into a thin layer.

SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

3. Top with cereal, blueberries and strawberries.

4. Cover with another piece of

parchment paper.

5. Place in the freezer for two hours, or overnight, until the bark is fully frozen.

6. Slice into your desired shape (I prefer squares).

7. Serve immediately (you can store any leftovers in an airtight container in the freezer).

BOEREWORS SHAKSHUKA Serves: 2 INGREDIENTS: 500g boerewors 1 clove garlic 3 tbsp olive oil 400g tinned tomato and onion relish 1 can black beans, drained and gently rinsed under cold water

'I always crack open my egg on the side and take away half the egg white'

salt and pepper 4 large eggs fresh coriander and parsley, for garnish French loaf, for serving METHOD: 1. Remove the sausage meat from the casing, and roll it into about 14 balls.

2. Turn the garlic clove into paste by adding a sprinkle of salt and grinding it with the back of your knife.

3. Heat the oil over high heat in a large pan. Add the boerewors balls in batches and cook until browned inside and the outside is golden and crispy, about 6 min.

4. Reduce heat to medium. Add the garlic paste and cook, stirring, until softened and fragrant, about 30 seconds.

combine for about 60 seconds. Turn heat down low and cook at a bare simmer for 10 min.

6. Add the beans and season to taste with salt and pepper.

7. Using a large spoon, make a well near the perimeter of the pan and break an egg directly into it.

8. Spoon a little sauce over the edges of the egg white to submerge it a bit and contain it, leaving the yolk exposed.

9. Repeat with the other 3 eggs, working around the pan.

10. Season the eggs with a little salt, and place the pan in a 160°C oven for 5 to 8 min, depending on how you prefer your egg done.

11. Sprinkle with coriander and parsley, and serve immediately with crusty bread.

For more recipes as yummy as these, Chef Nti - My Modern African Kitchen is out in September for R350.

5. Add the tomato relish, stirring gently to SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

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THIS MONTH'S SELECTIONS (TASTED OUT OF 20 WINES)

Platinum Club • Rietvallei JMB Cabernet Franc 2014 R399.00 • Lomond Conebush Syrah 2015 R369.00 • Cape of Good Hope Basson Pinotage 2015 R519.00 • Le Riche Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 R525.00 • Altydgedacht Old Vine Chenin Blanc 2018 R359.00 • Babylonstoren Sprankel MCC 2014 R699.00

SA’S TOP WINE PICKS

Reserve • Clos Malverne Spirit of Malverne Limited Release 2015 R305.00 • Thor Cabernet Franc 2017 R269.00 • Simonsig Redhill Pinotage 2017 R389.00 • La Couronne Malbec 2016 R265.00 • Arendsig Inspirational Chenin Blanc 2018 R200.00 • Spioenkop Queen Manthatisi 2016 R219.00 • Genevieve 2015 MCC R259.00

Our panel’s TOP PICKS this month and a listing of the club selections

La Couronne Malbec 2016 Reserve Club Slightly acidic edge and is a delicious all-rounder wine that is easy to drink, with juicy fruit flavours. Malbec has a vibrant aroma of dark chocolate and spices. Rich, full and plumy with crushed berry flavours on the palate, balanced with a creamy oak finish.

PAIRING: Enjoyed with springbok and kudu steak, spicy dishes and mature cheeses.

ripe lemons, limes and lemongrass. The rich blend of Chardonnay (57%) and Sémillon (23%) also retains its fruity character on the palate and convinces with its harmonious balance. PAIRING: Best with poultry or fish, but pasta is also a good choice with this white wine.

Môreson Miss Molly Manor Born 2016 Wine-of-the-Month Club Spoils in the bouquet with wonderful citrus notes, which unite aromas of

David Biggs

Margaret Fundira

Winnie Bowman

Colin Collard

Terra Del Capo Sangiovese 2017 Best Value Club Ripe plum, black cherries, cassis and spice on the nose. Dry but well fruited. Cherries and plums make their luscious, rich presence known right from the outset. Lovely balance of fruit, acidity and tannin. PAIRING: Beef, veal, pork, game, mature and hard cheeses.

Claude Felbert

PJ ‘Buks’ Nel

Christine Rudman

Wine-of-the-Month Club • Lanzerac Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 R176.00 • Ridgeback Cabernet Franc 2014 R189.00 • Kumusha Shiraz 2017 R149.00 • Wildeberg & Kompanjie Wandering Beeste Syrah 2017 R179.00 • Tierhoek Chardonnay 2017 R99.00 • Painted Wolf Black Pack Chenin Blanc 2018 R149.00 • Môreson Miss Molly Manor Born 2016 R149.00 • The Goose Sauvignon Blanc 2018 R119.00 • Du Toitskloof Hanepoot Jerepigo 2014 R92.99 • Rooiberg Colombar 2019 R63.99 • Altydgedacht Muskarade 2018 R99.00 • L’Ormarins Brut Rose 2015 MCC R195.00 Best Value • Lanzerac Merlot 2017 R160.00 • Dornier Cocoa Hill Red 2017 R89.00 • Stellenrust Pinotage 2018 R95.00 • Terra Del Capo Sangiovese 2017 R89.00 • Bergsig Weisser Riesling 2019 R109.00 • Rhebokskloof Hillside White 2019 R88.00 • Ernst Gouws & Co Sauvignon Blanc 2018 R109.00 • Croydon Title Deed Chenin Blanc 2018 R89.00 • Altydgedacht Muscarade 2018 R99.00 • Du Toitskloof Hanepoot Jerepigo 2014 R92.99 • Rooiberg Colombar 2019 R63.99

Gregory Mutambe

Clive Torr

To purchase these wines and more, call us on 021 492 4100 or email us at info@wineofthemonth.co.za WWW.WINEOFTHEMONTH.CO.ZA

Irina von Holdt

Tinashe Nyamudoka

YOUR WINE FAQS

WHAT ARE THE RITUALS OR RULES AT A WINE TASTING? WHY STORE WINE IN OAK BARRELS WHEN THERE IS STAINLESS STEEL? ARE THERE ANY GOOD SOUTH AFRICAN MERLOTS?

I am a newcomer to wine and have been invited to a wine tasting at a wine-loving friend’s house. Is there any particular ritual I should know about or rules I should follow? I would not like to disgrace my friend and end up looking silly. Never forget that wine is for pleasure. Follow what the wine-wise guests do. Look at the wine for its colour, sniff it to get its aroma, then take a mouthful, swirl it round and spit most of it into a spittoon if there is one.

Some hints to note: Do not wear a strong perfume that would detract from the aroma of the wine; if you will be tasting sparkling wine, do not wear lipstick, as this makes the wine in your glass go flat; if possible, avoid eggs or vinegar before a tasting, as these dull the taste of the wine.

Apart from those simple rules, your aim of attending a wine tasting is simply to enjoy every sip.

I am a newcomer to the Cape, having lived and worked in Johannesburg all my life. I have been delighted to visit several wine farms since arriving here and always been shown the winery’s barrel maturation cellar with great pride. Since the introduction of stainless steel, why is it still considered necessary to store wine in barrels? The main object of storing wine in barrels is to add flavour. The oak used in barrels adds an extra dimension to the flavour of the wine—a hint of biscuity vanilla that adds complexity. Oak barrels have become extremely expensive, however, so only certain full-flavoured wines are now matured in oak. Many lighter-bodied wines would simply be overpowered by the oak character. The barrels can be used effectively for only about three years, after which almost all the flavour has been leeched out of them. After delighting us with their flavour they usually end up as tubs, acting as planters in pretty gardens.

Before moving to South Africa from the UK I used to enjoy an occasional glass of Merlot with my meal. I have been trying to find a good South African Merlot, but so far without much success. Have you any recommendations? Yes. Yes. Switch to Cabernet Franc. Members of the Wine-of-the-Month Club tasting panel are regularly disappointed by the Merlots offered for selection. Not many producers seem to have mastered this grape. Most of the South African Merlots are rough and tannic. A wine-loving acquaintance confessed that when offered a Merlot, he surreptitiously added a splash of cranberry juice to his drink, claiming the result was “quite pleasant”. This being a serious publication, we obviously can’t officially recommend such vinous vandalism, so we merely mention it as a curiosity.

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2019/09/26 2:07 PM

WINE | Panel Report

Where are the

GOOSEBERRIES AND GREEN FIGS? This month we look at two DIFFICULT CATEGORIES—two UNRULY FAVOURITES running wild

By Irina von Holdt CWM

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Panel Report | WINE

Where have ALL the FLOWERS gone?

A

ll tastings are not equal. There are ups and downs, sometimes exhilarating and sometimes with deep disappointments, but every now and then, a moment of sheer joy.

That’s why we drink wine; it’s the endless pursuit of special moments. And, we know instantly when we find it.

With our first category we are still trudging along in hope, and with the other we get our rewards, not ultimate stars, but rewarding nonetheless.

THE SAUVIGNON BLANC LINE UP “Where have all the flowers gone?” It was a lovely, if plaintive song recalling lost loves, lost youth and all things lost, but no, we’re into wine, so we’re looking for something vastly different. Like the all-too-elusive varietal character of our Sauvignon Blancs. And where exactly has it all gone? Apart from a few notable examples—those alluring gooseberry, cut-grass, green pea and fig aromas— the flavours are simply not there. If the label says Sauvignon Blanc, is it not unreasonable to expect those delightfully crisp, green herbal notes?

Clive puts it neatly. “This variety has such recognisably varietal character,” he says, “but it’s not here. I expect more.

Instead producers are turning out cash cows.”

Exactly. This variety is riding high with the public and enjoying great success, but are we getting what we pay for? The answer must be an emphatic NO! We are being fobbed off with some very sub-standard wines. The solution is not simply a matter of paying more. There are even expensive examples that are very disappointing, let alone a whole raft of cheapies.

Clearly the main problem is that vines are often planted willy-nilly and in the wrong areas to make a quick buck. Cash cows … so let’s milk them. Sauvignon Blanc needs coolness to produce the best grapes, but obviously not every farm has such a site or the farm itself is in a warm area.

“If the wine is disappointing then don’t bottle it as a Sauvignon,” Irina suggests. “It could be great for blending, with a nice firm acidic backbone, and then you can hang all sorts of fruit and flavour around it.”

“That’s the trouble,” Dave grumbles.

“The searingly high acid. It puts me off.”

At other tastings there is some hope.

WINES TASTED

BY THE PANEL SAUVIGNON BLANC WINE-OF-THE-MONTH CLUB: Pulpit Rock Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 2017.

ALSO LIKED: Neil Ellis Groenekloof Sauvignon Blanc 2017, Seven Springs Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc 2015, Meerhof Sauvignon Blanc 2017, Eagle’s Cliff Sauvignon Blanc 2017.

WINES LISTED IN ALPHABETICAL ORDER: Neil Ellis Amica Sauvignon Blanc 2016, Nuy Mastery Sauvignon Blanc 2017, Walker Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2017, Aaldering Sauvignon Blanc 2017, Simonsvlei Hercules Paragon Sauvignon Blanc 2017, DeMorgenzon DMZ Sauvignon Blanc 2017, Guardian Peak Sauvignon Blanc 2017, Mount Rozier Flower Garden Sauvignon Blanc 2017, Weltevrede Tropico Sauvignon Blanc 2017, Noble Savage Sauvignon Blanc 2017, L’ Avenir Far & Near Sauvignon Blanc 2017, Hillcrest Sauvignon Blanc 2017, Lodestone Strandloper Sauvignon Blanc 2016, Bushmanspad Sauvignon Blanc 2017, Hartenberg Sauvignon Blanc 2017

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2019/09/27 1:39 PM

WINE | Panel Report

Christine says, “I think they’re harvesting riper.”

Clive adds, “At last I found some gooseberries, green peppers and greengages. Really nice. Must be some cool climate wines...”

So we find a few more wines that are, let’s say, “less disappointing”. There are still far too many high-acid, watery, indefinable ‘premier grand cru’ style wines with no varietal distinction

Panel Report.indd 26

whatsoever.

Clive raises another problem. “Those commercial wines with a dollop of sugar,” he says, “I simply throw them out.”

Who wants sweetness in a Sauvignon anyway? The whole appeal of the variety is the freshness of crushed herbs and crunchy fruit. You don’t put sugar onto lettuce.

But we agree there has been some progress. Dave speaks for most when he says, “I found some that excited me.”

Irina adds that 2019 seems to be shaping up as a good year for Sauvignon.

Although Winnie is less convinced. “It’s moving towards varietal character,” she says, “rather than into it.”

Fashionable? Undoubtedly—but only for those not in the know. Flavourful?

Not much there.

ADVICE TO WINEMAKERS: Please don’t make wines with low alcohols.

They don’t work. The grapes must be properly ripe to start with. Cold soak on the skins—that’s where the flavour is— and for at least three hours, and use dry ice. And, please, no cash cows.

WINES TASTED

BY THE PANEL

PINOTAGE’S MIXED REVIEWS There’s no question this variety has a special place in the heart of South

PINOTAGE

CABERNET SAUVIGNON WINE-OF-THE-MONTH CLUB: De Wet Cellar Cabernet Sauvignon 2016.

ALSO LIKED: Tokara Cabernet Sauvignon 2014, Glen Carlou Cabernet Sauvignon 2016, Anura Cabernet Sauvignon 2015, Cavalli Colt Cabernet Sauvignon 2016.

WINES LISTED IN ALPHABETICAL ORDER: Anthonij Protea Cabernet Sauvignon 2016, Lyngrove Collection Cabernet Sauvignon 2016, De Wetshof Naissance Cabernet Sauvignon 2015, McGregor Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2015, Windfall Cabernet Sauvignon 2015, Nitida Cabernet Sauvignon 2016, Mount Vernon Cabernet Sauvignon 2013, Akkerdraai Cabernet Sauvignon 2014, Van Loveren Tangled Tree Cabernet Sauvignon 2017, Spier Signature Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 Anura Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2014, Haut Espoir Cabernet Sauvignon 2008, Van Loveren Rhino Cabernet Sauvignon 2015, Villiera Cabernet Sauvignon 2016, Lyngrove Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2016.

WINE-OF-THE-MONTH CLUB: Wildekrans Barrel Select Reserve Pinotage 2015.

ALSO LIKED: Kleine Zalze Cellar Selection Pinotage 2017, Spier Savanha Winemaker’s Selection Pinotage 2017, Lyngrove Platinum Pinotage 2016, Overhex Balance Winemaker’s Selection Pinotage 2016.

WINES LISTED IN ALPHABETICAL ORDER: Anura Pinotage 2016, Flagstone Writer’s Block Pinotage 2016, De Grendel Amandelboord Pinotage 2016, Bosman Pinotage 2015, Anura Reserve Pinotage 2016, Spier Signature Pinotage 2017, Spier Savanha Winemaker’s Selections Pinotage 2016, Van Loveren Fives Reserve Pinotage 2017, Clos Malverne Reserve Pinotage 2014, Mount Vernon Three Peaks Pinotage 2016, Clos Malverne Le Café Pinotage 2016, Van Loveren African Java Pinotage 2017, Vriesenhof Pinotage 2016, Van Loveren Rhino Run Pinotage 2015, McGregor Pinotage 2017.

2019/09/26 12:24 PM

Panel Report | WINE

Africans. It is, after all, our own creation and unique. But how is it faring?

“A mixed bag, actually,” says Claude.

“Too much coffee, too much oak, too much tannin,” says Winnie.

Colin differs. “Lots of lovely, fruity, delicious wines,” he says. “So accessible.”

Gosh, but is everyone at the same tasting? Well, yes, but then it’s a mixed bag and shows that these are difficult times for winemakers, too. Imported French and American oak has become prohibitively expensive, and consumers are less willing to pay high prices. So you cut your suit according to your cloth, as the old saying goes. This translates into less reliance on oak and more on our high-quality fruit. Not a bad thing.

We see some delightful wines with the emphasis on soft, delicious fruit and easy drinkability and Dave and Colin are our loyal in-house Pinotage fans. Dave says, “They have an earthy plumminess to them. Lots of red berries with plums all over. Tannins not a problem. I like them.”

And Colin adds, “I don’t want hard, austere wines. These are generous and giving. I like that as long as they are not sloppily made.”

Irina says, “Ripe and grapey Pinotage does very well in the commercial category but I think it’s worth more than just that.”

On another note, Christine feels some winemakers try too hard and so their wines end up being too hard and grippy.

Claude also has a problem. “I looked for varietal character, but didn’t find much Pinotage there.”

Irina agrees. “It’s almost as if winemakers are embarrassed by the fruitiness and are now making them more subdued, or subjugated.”

Buks is all smiles. “This was my best tasting for a long time,” he says. “But after taking out my top wines, the rest were ordinary.”

Now that’s definitely a mixed bag.

ADVICE TO WINEMAKERS: Celebrate the varietal character, but get rid of the rusty nails, burnt rubber and varnish characteristics. And not too much coffee, while we’re about it, please.

WINES TASTED BY THE PANEL BORDEAUX BLENDS WINE-OF-THE-MONTH CLUB: Spier Creative Block 5 2015.

ALSO LIKED: Raka Quinary 2015, Goudini Ruby Cabernet Merlot 2016, Rietvallei Estéanna 2015, Simonsig Tiara 2016.

WINES LISTED IN ALPHABETICAL ORDER: The High Road Director’s Reserve 2013, Alleé Bleue L’Amour Toujours 2014, Creation Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot Petit Verdot 2016, The High Road Director’s Reserve 2014, Alleé Bleue Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2014, Mount Vernon Galileo 2013, The High Road Classique 2014, Dornier Cabernet Merlot 2015, Hermanuspietersfontein Die Arnoldus 2013, Van Loveren Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2016, Simonsig Tiara 2014, Van Loveren Rhino Run Ian Player 2015, Anura Legato 2015, Bonnievale Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2016, Clos Malverne Cabernet Merlot 2015.

To purchase these wines and more, head to our website www.wineofthemonth.co.za

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2019/09/27 9:04 AM

CONNOISSEUR’S

CHOICE A SELECTION OF TOP WINES TO TRY

Did you Know? You can join our Olive Oil Club today and receive the best local olive oils and olive oil products from around South Africa. You can choose how often you would like to receive them and they’ll be delivered to your door. Call: 021 492 4100 | Website: www.wineofthemonth.co.za To purchase these wines and more, head to our website www.wineofthemonth.co.za 2 8

SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

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Connoisseur’s Choice | WINE

1. Thelema Sutherland Reserve Chardonnay 2016 (Price R330.00) This Chardonnay articulates the sense of place through the chalky minerality and subtle brioche notes. An intriguing grapefruit essence softens the oak elements, which leaves a lingering, refined acidity. Drink now or in 10 years. PAIRING: Forest mushroom risotto topped with truffle oil and Parmesan.

4. Ridgeback Cabernet Franc 2014 (Price R189.00) Upfront blackcurrant with hints of green peppercorn and black olive cradled by elegant, ripe tannins and oak spice on the long mineral finish.

Drink in 10-15 years. PAIRING: The complexity of this Cabernet Franc is ideally paired with game birds such as duck or quail and would do equally well served with veal.

7. Rhebokskloof Hillside White 2019 (Price R88.00) A floral and fruity nose of orange blossom and peach combined with citrus zest. The complex and flavoursome taste of ripe green apple, rich ripe apricots and hints of peach, makes this the ideal wine for a hot summer’s day. Drink now or in 2-3 years. PAIRING: To be enjoyed with spicy Thai or Indian cuisine.

2. Rainbow’s End Mystical Corner 2017 (Price R99.99) Youthful dark purple. A punchy, fruity Beaujolais style wine that’s juicy and easy drinking. Bottled without filtering or fining. Natural deposits may therefore be found in the bottle. A wonderful wine for casual events. Drink now or in 2-3 years. PAIRING: Beef, lamb, spicy food, mature and hard cheese and poultry.

5. Altydgedacht Old Vine Chenin Blanc 2018 (Price R359.00) Aromas of Granny Smith apple, citrus and cedar combine with hints of oak to create a complex and elegant entry on the palate. Full malolactic fermentation attributes palate weight, with a lingering, lively aftertaste. Drink now or in 5 years. PAIRING: Scallops, Salmon en Croute, roast chicken and pork belly with apple sauce.

8. Arendsig Inspirational Chenin Blanc 2018 (Price R200.00) Aromas of yellow apple, pineapple, nuts, spice and white pear on the nose.

The palate is rich and broad with great depth of flavor and well-balanced acidity. Inspirational batch wines are a selection of single vineyard wines.

Drink now or in 5 Years. PAIRING: Pairs with cajun chicken wings or a cheesy chicken bake.

3. Opstal Sixpence Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2019 (Price R71.00) Lots of ripe tropical fruit with a vibrant acidity and a well-rounded finish. This is a wine that should be drunk every day! Drink now or within 3 years.

PAIRING: Pairs well with pasta, chicken salad, seafood, rich fish (salmon, tuna etc), shellfish, sweet desserts, vegetarian and poultry.

6. La Couronne Malbec 2016 (Price R265.00) A rounder wine that is easy to drink, with juicy fruit flavours. Malbec has a vibrant aroma of dark chocolate and spices. Rich, full and plumy with crushed berry flavours on the palate, balanced with a creamy oak finish.

Drink now or in 7-10 years. PAIRING: Enjoyed with springbok and kudu steak, spicy dishes and mature cheeses.

9. Genevieve MCC 2015 (Price R259.00) Delicate and generous bubbles with crisp aromas of lime blossom, white peach and honeydew melon. Vibrant and supple upon entry with rounded and expressive flavours of toasty finesse lending to a lingering finish.

Drink now or in 4-10 years PAIRING: Chilled peach soup, mushroom soufflé, butternut squash ravioli, tuna tacos, lime & hazelnut macaroons.

‘Upfront blackcurrant with hints of green peppercorn and black olive’ SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

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WINE | Connoisseur’s Choice

10. Wildeberg & Kompanjie Wandering Beeste Syrah 2017 (Price R179.00) It is skinny, structured stuff with breadth, texture and a charmingly rustic gait. Bright acidity and fine tannins in the stems that lift the ripe Syrah fruit to a freshness. Minerality to the palate which finishes long, broad and bright.

Drink now or until 2024. PAIRING: Deserves a wonderfully juicy, premium rare steak.

13. Tokara Sauvignon Blanc 2018 (Price R95.99) Deep straw colour with hints of lime green on the rim. The nose is a complex melange of tropical fruits asparagus and lemongrass. Rich, full and mirrors the aromas on the nose. Apple texture, a lingering crisp aftertaste. Best drunk before 2020. PAIRING: Served with grilled chicken and fish, fresh oysters or even a light prawn curry.

16. Kleine Zalze Vineyard Selection Sauvignon Blanc 2018 (Price R119.99) Vibrant aromas of passion fruit and gooseberries with hints of capsicum.

Elegant palate with mineral edge that lasts forever. Drink now or in 5 years.

PAIRING: Your favourite fresh fish dishes and light summer salads.

11. Le Lude Brut MCC NV (Price R299.00) Pale silver-pink. Aromas of raspberries, cherries and a few secondary whiffs of minerality. A lively mousse but fine in the mouth, with subtle red berry flavours enlivened by bright acids.

Brisk on the palate, showing hints of oyster shell and fresh lavender. Drink in 3-5 years. PAIRING: Shrimp, shellfish, smoked salmon, caviar, fried calamari, and oysters.

14. Tokara Elgin Sauvignon Blanc 2018 (Price R139.99) Straw colour with a green edge. Aromas of granadilla, Cape gooseberries, lemon grass and hints of fresh cut grass.

Freshness on the palate, with fresh citrus, grapefruit flavours, a creamy mid-palate and a lingering crisp finish.

Drink in 5 years. PAIRING: Wild oysters, asparagus with hollandaise sauce or fresh grilled yellow-tail with salsa verde.

17. Waterford Estate Chardonnay 2017 (Price R279.00) A bright, olive-green colour. The aromatics of fresh peach pip, lime and a light touch of oak from barrel.

Waterford’s older vines still prove to produce lovely restrained, tightly structured wines that are rather perfumed when young. Drink in 2-5 years. PAIRING: Pork, rich fish, vegetarian, poultry, cheese and savoury pastries.

12. Eikendal Classique 2015 (Price R270.00) Subtly rich and powerful with full perfume flavours of blue and black fruits, earthiness and Cellar Master Nico Grobler’s signature freshness. It showcases a tightly woven, long and linear structure with fresh tannins.

Drink in 20 years. PAIRING: Roasted pork shoulder, côte de boeuf and cheese.

15. Kleine Zalze Family Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 2018 (Price R227.00) Lively and herbaceous with crisp layers of fruit. Intense palate with tropical and green elements. A serious wine with a long future. Drink now or in 5 years.

PAIRING: Particularly complements salads, cold meats, chicken and fish. Enjoy well chilled, ideal serving temperature between 12-14°C.

18. Waterford Kevin Arnold Shiraz 2015 (Price R295.00) Complex red and dark fruit, earthy and cold stone lead the aromatics, accompanied by plum fruit and leather spice undertones. Natural acidity and classic granular tannins. Drink now or in 5-10 years. PAIRING: Pairs well with lean red meats such as venison as well as a variety of earthy components.

‘Aromas of raspberries, cherries and a few secondary whiffs of minerality’ 3 0

SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

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Connoisseur’s Choice | WINE

19. Mischa Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2019 (Price R99.99) Clear, bright with hints of lime. Aromas of Cape gooseberry... tropical fruit with touches of citrus and lemon rind.

Crisp, seamlessly layered and a complex palate with flavors of mineral, passion fruit, apple and tropical flavours with a clean, zesty finish. Drink now or in 3-5 years. PAIRING: Cheese, green salads, vegetables and delicate fish.

22. Glenwood Merlot 2018 (Price R139.00) Medium-bodied wine with layers of mint, chocolate, plum and mulberry.

Full and elegant, with a long conclusion. Drink now or in 5 years.

PAIRING: Particularly complements beef, lamb, veal.

20. Bruce Jack Sauvignon Blanc 2019 (Price R69.99) The cool climate component from the Cape South Coast lends this wine intense crunchy green apple and lemon grass. The riper components provide juicy white peach and touch of citrus.

Drink now or in 2 years. PAIRING: Burrata, walnut and endive salad with a citrus vinaigrette or fresh blue crab dressed with olive oil rich mayonnaise.

21. Bruce Jack Chenin Blanc 2019 (Price R69.99) The older vineyard component was fermented in French barrels for depth and complexity. The wine shows exciting stone fruit aromas. The palate is a delicious medley of summer fruits and citrus. Drink now or in 3 years.

PAIRING: This wine loves spicy food, particularly Indian spices.

SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

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What’s in

A WINE?

H

ow much do we really care about the wines we drink? That might sound like a ridiculous question.

Of course we care! Those of us who taste wines regularly enjoy having a serious discussion with almost every mouthful we swallow: this will pair well with a rare steak, this has a grippy tannic bite, I don’t think this is a typical Merlot at all, the wood overpowers the fruit on this one.

It’s all very erudite and knowledgeable, but does it have any relationship with real life? At a party your host probably asks: “Red or white?” and the chances are you’re perfectly happy with whatever he pours. You’ll be drinking it while juggling to balance a plate of snacks in your other hand and trying to ask intelligent questions of the young woman who has been introduced as 3 2

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“Doctor Jane Smith”. Are you really going to bother about whether it’s a typical Sauvignon Blanc? A restaurant owner once told me that the most popular wine on his list was always the second cheapest one on offer. “People don’t want to be seen choosing the cheapest wine. It looks mean. The second cheapest is a safe bet and probably still within your budget.”

The actual flavour or complexity isn’t a factor when it comes to selecting a bottle for the table. And, it’s pointless to discuss the best food pairing because Sally’s having fillet steak, John’s having the chicken pie and Eve’s a vegetarian.

But wine is versatile and forgiving and it’s unlikely there are two wines that are really unpleasant on the wine list. If you’re a guest it’s best to relax and enjoy whatever comes along.

Having said all that, those of us who belong to tasting clubs like the Wineof-the-Month Club can feel just a little smug when we share a bottle with a friend in our own home. We needn’t worry about the quality of the wine we’re drinking, or when to open it, because there’s a tasting panel to do all that on our behalf.

Wine is the lubricant of good company and conversation. It should not be the star of the show, grabbing the spotlight. Rather, it should be the stage setting on which friendship and good conversation should dance merrily together. We can pop the cork of any wine selected by the panel and pour it, knowing we’re unlikely to be disappointed. We can drink a toast to our friends rather than the wine we share with them.

Illustration by: Chloé Damstra

David Biggs on why we shouldn’t sweat the small stuff

SOUTH AFRICAN CONNOISSEUR

2019/09/26 2:07 PM

ST E L L E NR UST ’S Ser i es RAR E T HE M OT HE R SHIP C HE NIN B L ANC TOP 10 AGAIN AND AGAIN Once again Stellenrust has made the sort after list of this year’s 2019 Standard Bank Chenin Blanc Top 10 Challenge. The Stellenbosch estate is the only producer to be part of the Top 10—since the competition’s inception 10 years ago.

Stellenrust’s SeriesRARE Mothership Chenin Blanc shows intense white peach and pear drop on the nose which carries forward to a stone fruit palate supported by clean mineral lines and a lees coated acidity.

SITUATED OFF THE R44 BETWEEN STELLENBOSCH & SOMERSET WEST, STELLENRUST ROAD | PHONE: 021 880 2283 | WWW.STELLENRUST.CO.ZA

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