wine Republic, edición abril- mayo 2009

MENDOZA`S FREE MAGAZINE

Nยบ37 APR / MAY 2009

BELASCO DE BAQUEDANO

A SPANISH WINERY IN MENDOZA PARAGLIDING OVER THE ANDES JEROME BEER 1

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editorial Un Mini Bus del Vino?

A Wine Shuttle Bus?

Créase o no, era mas fácil hacer un tour de vino en Maipú en los treinta.

Entonces, era la principal región de vino y la más cercana al centro de la ciudad, había un tren urbano que te llevaba directamente al corazón de los viñedos. Hoy en día los visitantes tienen que negociar con colectiveros, bicicleteros y trafics para hacer el tour más económico en la provincia. Nosotros, desde Wine Republic, estamos siempre tratando de pensar nuevas y mejores formas de visitar y conocer las bodegas de Mendoza. Una idea que esta flotando alrededor es la un servicio de “mini bus”. Una trafic que salga desde el centro de la ciudad cada media hora y haga un circuito por las principales bodegas de Maipú que no requieren una reserva previa. Los turistas pueden subir y bajar a donde les plazca visitando grandes nombres como Carinae, Di Tommaso, Lopez y Zuccardi antes de retornar a la ciudad en el próximo mini bus que pasará de regreso en la próxima media hora.

La misma idea se ha implementado en Salta con gran éxito. Un colectivo sin techo que lleva turistas alrededor de treinta sitios históricos de la Ciudad, subiendo y bajando cuando ellos quieren. Incluso tiene una TV de pantalla plana que muestra imágenes de la región. El mini bus Mendocino podría tener un pequeño bar que sirva finos Malbec para beberlo al viento. Alguno quizás no pueda bajar nunca.

Believe it or not it was easier to do a wine tour in Maipu in the 1930s then it is today. Then, Mendoza’s principal wine region and the closest to the city center had an urban train service that took you right out into the vineyards. Nowadays visitors have to negotiate buses, bikes and traffic to do the most economical tour in the province.

We here at Wine Republic are always trying to think up new and better ways to see Mendoza’s wineries. One idea that has been floating around is a wine shuttle bus service. A bus leaves from the city center every half hour and does a circuit of Maipu’s many wineries that do not require prior reservations. Tourists can jump on and off where they please, visiting such great names as Carinae, Di Tommasso, Lopez and Zuccardi, before jumping back on the next bus that comes along in 30 minutes.

The same idea has been tried in Salta with great success. An open top shuttle bus takes visitors around the city’s 30 historical sites, getting off where they please. It even has a flat screen TV displaying facts about the northern region. The Mendoza bus could have a small bar dishing out the finest Malbec to sip in the breeze. One might never get off.

Contents

CREDITS

Wish List Recommended wines ........................................................ 8 What Type of Wine Drinker Are You? .........................................11

April - May 2009 / 10,000 Copies / Published by Seven Colors S.A. / San Lorenzo 170 / Mendoza City / Tel (0261) 425 5613 / Cel. 155 413 892 / ask@wine-republic.com Editor: Charlie O’Malley Assistant Editor: Lucy Holdsworth.

Publicidad: Gabriel DellInnocenti, Carolina DellInnocenti, Ana Laura Aguilera (155 01 88 74) publicidad@wine-republic.com Publishing Assistant: Muriel Altamirano P.R.: Judith Clinton Design: Beattub www.beattub.com.ar Printer: Artes Gráficas UNION Contributors: Luke McMahon, Charlie O`Malley, Lucy Holdsworth.

Distributors: Emanuel Lucero (Mendoza City), José Luis Cano (Greater Mendoza), Julie Monteith (Bariloche), Emiliano Guevara (Buenos Aires), Sergio Lucca, Rosa María Aguilera (Cordoba).

Hopping Mad Jerome, Mendoza’s very own beer ........................16

Opinions expressed in this magazine are not necessarily the editorial opinions of Wine Republic.

City Map ..........................................................................................34

www.wine-republic.com 4

News Republic ................................................................................. 6

Belasco de Baquedano A Spanish winery in Mendoza .................18 Flying With Condors Paragliding over the Andes .........................20 Santa Maria de los Andes Your own vineyard? ………………….22 Top 20 Wineries to Visit Where to go and taste ………………….24 Dining Out Mendoza’s best restaurants .........................................26 Bars Where to drink .......................................................................30 Useful Information ..........................................................................32

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news republic HARVEST 2009

No Strings Attached

Great grapes but less of them - that sums up Argentina’s wine harvest 2009. A 20% drop in production on last year (which in itself was down 10%) has been felt particularly bad in the east of the province and San Juan. Hail and frost have been blamed but the general consensus is that it’s just one of those years where the vineyards are producing less.

What they are producing however is excellent and 2009 could be a great vintage year for high-end wines. Good weather, a late summer and rain at the right time has meant less stress for winemakers who fortunately have not had to deal with the usual labour problems neither. Grape sales are slow however which reflects a general negativity in the industry despite booming exports.

Once again the vineyards of Mendoza will be alive with the music of Mozart and Schubert. The annual Festival Internacional Música Clásica por los Caminos del Vino gets going again for the ninth year. 50 concerts will be performed over nine days in some of Mendoza’s most beautiful wineries as well as churches and historical landmarks. The Teatro Independencia (Chile and Espejo) will also host evening recitals everyday at 6pm starting on Saturday the 4th of April and finishing on Sunday the 12th. For the full program on what is going on around the province and information on free tickets go to www.caminosdelvino.com.

VENDIMIA VINDICATED A sharp drop in reservations meant the unthinkable was about to happen - Mendoza’s hotels would have empty rooms during the wine harvest festival. A shocking outcome considering up until this year you had to sell your grandmother to get a room and two-year advance bookings were not unknown. As it turned out the rooms filled up during the week and hotels reported a 98% occupancy, reflecting a new tendency for people to decide at the last minute where to stay and where to go. Tourism outlets and wineries have reported visitors being more prudent with money and looking for discounts and bargains, reflecting the global uncertainty regarding money. 129,000 visitors came to Mendoza for the party, of which only 15,000 were foreigners, showing the wine harvest festival is very much an Argentine affair.

NICOLAS CATENA - MAN OF THE YEAR 2009 Respected Brit wine mag Decanter has this year dropped the gong of excellence on Argentina’s Nicolas Catena. Scion of wine dynasty Catena Zapata, Catena is credited for almost single-handedly changing the direction of Argentine wine and making it fit for fine wine consumption around the world. He was certainly a pioneer in high altitude wine making, planting vineyards in Valle de Uco at heights that were thought more suitable for Bolivian Vicuna and nothing else. Such intuition paid off and now Catena Zapata makes some of Argentina’s greatest wines.

The Mayan inspired winery can be visited in Lujan de Cuyo, 40 minutes south of the city. www.catenawines.com

Catena Zapata

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THE Wish List Some wines to try while in Mendoza

Bressia 2004 Profundo

Malbec, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. A dark ruby with sweet notes of chocolate, strawberry and stewed cherries, nice oak notes but not over powering and stuffy. Price $ 150 ARG.

Prodigo Malbec Reserva 2004

Italian winemaker Alessandro Speri is producing a delicious malbec with an intense floral nose and hints of chocolate and vanilla.

Price $ 65 ARG.

Altos Los Hormigas Bonarda Colonia Los Liebres

This usually sturdy grape gets the soft, fruity treatment from one of Argentina’s most respected wineries. Ripe and dense it has surprisingly warm tannins. Price $ 30 ARG.

Finca La Celia 2004 Cabernet Franc

Very dark with violet hue, concentrated black fruit, blackberries, blueberrys, a bit of currant and spice, mint and a touch on alcohol on the nose. A velvety texture with light tannins. Price $ 40 ARG.

Domaine St. Diego 2006 Paradigma

60% Malbec, 20% Cabernet Franc and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. Bright red color, loaded with earthy notes and smoke, soft red fruits of white cherry, cranberry and plum. Price $ 35 ARG.

Tempus Alba 2005 Tempranillo

Light ruby in color, long soft cherry aromas with gentle and silky entrance, great balance and structure. Excellent value. Price $ 48 ARG.

Urban Uco Sauvignon Blanc 2007

Yellow hues, very grassy and floral, acidic, with citric notes and sweet apricot, good full mouth feel, buttery and oaky notes on finish and a lasting grassy taste but with good minerality. Price $ 20 ARG.

Tapiz Sauvignon Blanc

Mil Piedras Sangiovese 2005

A seductive aroma of ripe, jammy fruit with a subtle hint of white chocolate. This Italian grape has found its home in the Uco Valley producing a delicate, dry wine with good body and crisp acidity. Price: $ 25 approx

Melipal Reserva Malbec 2003

Intense ruby red with almost black hints and luscious aromas of over ripe black currants and cooked plums. This complex, full bodied wine has sweet tannins and a long persistent finish. Decant before drinking.

Price: $110

Enrique Foster Reserva Malbec

Made from 80 year old vines, this single varietal winery has produced a huge wine with fruity aromas and berry flavours. A stunning example of a full-bodied Malbec. Price: $ 60

Mendel Unus 2004 Malbec

Notes of black cherries, prunes, raisins and jam, together with the chocolate, vanilla, toast and caramel which come from its aging in new French oak barrels. This is a full-bodied wine, with a lot of structure, mature, rounded, sweet tannins and a very long length. Price: $ 160

Pulenta Estate La Flor Sauvignon Blanc

A brilliant greenish yellow colour with intense aromas of grapefruit and citrus fruits. This wine exhibits a perfect balance of sweetness and acidity with a fresh, long finish. Perfect for sipping on summer afternoons. Price $ 30

Yauquen Chardonnay Semillón

Soft golden colour with greenish hues. Intense, fruity nose and citric aromas. The perfectly intergrated acidity highlights its freshness and produces a light, fruity summer wine. Price: $ 17

Ruca Malen Kinien

Despite Mendoza’s constant sunshine, the area is producing some excellent acidic whites and Tapiz Sauvignon Blanc is one of the best.

Strong hints of gooseberry and guavo. Price $ 35 ARG.

Ruby red colour with spicy aromas and a delicate touch of pepper among an array of plums, blackberries and cherries. Maturation in French oak barrels provides smoky flavours with vanilla and chocolate overtones. A complex and intense wine with balanced tannins. Price: $ 95

Sottano Malbec 2005

Cavagnaro Malbec

Juicy, ripe cherries and plums, are enriched by delicate flavours of chocolate and vanilla supported by subtle oak. Velvety tannins, great structure and a lovely long finish make this a wonderfully elegant wine to be enjoyed now. Price: $20 ARG

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This Maipu Malbec has delicious, juicy, ripe fruit. It is elegant, well balanced and has an excellent long finish.

Price: $ 25

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WHAT TYPE OF WINE DRINKER ARE YOU? WINE LOVERS COME IN ALL SHAPES AND SIZES. ANSWER OUR SURVEY AND SEE WHAT TYPE YOU ARE.

1. You doze off on the train and wake up to discover a wine bottle bag next to you, left behind by a fellow passenger. After a respectable few minutes waiting for the true owner to return, curiosity gets the better of you and you take a peek inside. You discover a bottle of Chateau Laffitte 1982. What do you do?

D. Its got an ugly label and is French. The ticket collector can have it.

40 points E. Look for a price label 20 points

2. You`re at a dinner party with friends. The host is talking about his recent trip to Argentina and how he bought a rare bottle of Achaval Ferrer Cabernet Sauvignon, and pulls it out to prove it.

A. Your eyes widen with delight. You never knew Achaval Ferrer produced this varietal. You beg the owner to open it.

50 points B. You turn green with envy. This blasts your bottle into oblivion and you pray he doesn´t open it. Your rival rubs more salt on the wound by describing a barrel tasting he did with the owner. You promise yourself you`ll get to Argentina this winter.

40 points C. “Cut the fuss!” you say. “I`m dry, lets drink it.”

10 points

A. You`ve tried this wine before and did not like it. Over-hyped and over-priced you remember. Still, you hope the owner returns as you once visited the winery and want to tell them all about it.

50 points B. Your eyes pop. This is one of Parker´s favourites and would look great in your cellar. You debate the moral implications of keeping it and quickly decide it would be pointless leaving it behind. You suddenly panic. Perhaps the owner has just gone to the bathroom.

30 points C. The name means nothing to you and you desperately search the back label for an indication of quality. It´s in French which is a good start but it´s a little old. You look for a sell by date. You wonder will it go with the leftover pizza you plan eating later.

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D. What a ridiculous price to pay for a bottle of wine you think. You recommend he keeps it for a special occasion.

20 points E. You sit in silence and have no idea what anybody´s talking about.

0 points

3. You`re watching a movie with friends. It`s a restaurant scene between a man and woman, where the wine bottle label is clearly visible. Suddenly the woman throws a glass of it in the man´s face and storms out. You: A. Think “thats exactly what I thought of that wine too!”

50 points

B. “Thats a bottle of $%&?Ç!” you tell your friends, making a mental note to buy a bottle for the next gathering.

40 points

B. Moan you´ve seen it 100 times before and what you really want to see is that Hungarian documentary about sweet wine.

40 points

C. Become irritated at your friend´s annoying habit of calling out labels while watching movies. Retaliate by lying and saying you´ve got a case of it in your cellar.

30 points

C. Become suspicious. Your partner is a beer drinker. Why are they being so nice?

10 points

D. Gasp at the price and muse that money doesn´t grow on trees, it grows on vines. At least the wine-soaked hero gets to drink the complete bottle by himself.

20 points

D. Ask who is Mondovino. Try your hardest to enjoy it but grow bored after 15 minutes. Wonder is there any beer in the fridge.

0 points E. Gasp at Michel Rolland`s earning power.

20 points

E. Wonder do your friends have a life.

10 points F. Remark beer does not stain

F. Relive your fantasy about buying a Tuscan winery and calling yourself a Super Tuscan.

30 points

0 points

4. You`re driving the leafy avenues of wine country. Up ahead you see a broken down driver wave you down. He`s large and friendly and is wearing hush puppies. It´s Robert Parker JR! What do you do?

A. Pull up and scream with delight.

50 points B. Pull up and grasp for your camera.

40 points C. Wonder what wonderful wines has he got in his trunk and will he trade some for a ride.

20 points D. Contemplate running him over.

30 points E. Keep going. You don´t know who you might pick up these days.

10 points F. Stop and ask directions to the local brewery 0 points

5. Your partner goes to the video store and returns with the movie Mondovino.

A. You hug them and realise this is true love.

50 points

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How did you score?

THE ENTHUSIAST (200 – 250 points) You are passionate about the world of wine and make it your mission in life to search and buy wine to enjoy with family and friends. You`re hungry to try every label that exists and if this requires traveling the world, then so be it. Nothing gets your juices going like a wine tour in the most exotic of places and your fondest memory is performing sword tricks on champagne bottles in South Africa. You are most likely a woman in her mid-forties with a t-shirt that proclaims you as a “Wine Diva.” You love to argue over a chardonnay and find the romance of corks irresistible - the popping noise gives you goose bumps. Nevertheless you`re not afraid to spit and criticize or swirl and admire as a wine demands. Wine swilling sopranos command 12% of the market.

Do: Buy that vineyard. Don´t: Spend all your kids inheritance on it.

THE IMAGE SEEKER (150 – 199) Predominately male and predatory, the Image Seeker has adventurous taste, a modern palate and a ruthless nose. You like your wines like you like your cars - big, shiney and red. Popping a cork on a fantastic label makes you feel like James Bond in overdrive - hot blooded and sophisticated. A good wine is not just to enjoy but also an opportunity to entertain your friends with your technical knowledge and impress girlfriends with you very large wallet. Price is only important if it appears too little. In your eyes the more the better, you want the best. Like a true hunter, you`re always seeking something different, or the next big thing. You like rare labels and large formats. Fivelitre bottles suit your ego. You hate pastel labels and sweet wines and are intimidated by wine knowledgable women. You control 20% of the market and are in your mid- thirties. Your favourite word is maloactic.

Do: Some volunteer work. Don´t: Take viagra.

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TRADITIONALIST (100 – 149) Some might call you a rightwing reactionary who hates anything new but you point out that your opposition to screwcaps and championing of corks is because the latter is environmentally friendly and supports sustainable forests. Also your support of French wine is based on the wish to help the small producer and cock a snook at the big corporate players. You`re a label junky and addicted to the most prestigious wines, preferably ones with terroir expression. Your cellar reflects a desire for wines that age well and you have a special spreadsheet program on your computer to tell you exactly when a certain wine has peaked and should be drank immediately. When this happens an alarm bell rings over your bed. You hate Parker but read him avidly and you have a secret subscription to Wine Spectator. You collect dirt from every wine region and sometimes wear a band aid across your nose bridge to improve your sense of smell. Surprisingly you are not male, but female and control 14% of the market.

Do: Try to smile. Don´t: Spit anymore THE SAVVY SHOPPER (50 – 99) You love good wine but even more so a good price. You`ve got a sharp nose for quality and value and the pleasure of finding a spectacular bargain is often more enjoyable than the wine itself. Big names are not important, though if you do come across a famous brand going cheap you`ll snap it up. Hell you`ll buy a box. Good wine is good wine, whether it comes in a jug or a Tetrapak. You cannot help collecting corks and will one day get around to making that cork noticeboard.

Often you`ll stop drinking a wine halfway through and keep the rest for the next day so you`ll achieve double appreciation. You dread to see your favourite wine score more than 90 in Wine Spectator as it means the price will double. You always take vacation in a wine producing country and travel with two empty suitcases with bottle foam dividers and one change of clothes. Your most prized possession is a set of crystal tulip wine glasses (the real deal). You divorced your husband when he accidentally smashed one. You are most likely 50, female and control 15% of the market.

Do: Marry that lovely man who owns a wine store. Don´t: Divorce him under any circumstances.

OVERWHELMED (0 – 49) A Friday night bottle with the girls was how you first got into wine and you haven`t progressed much further. To you a nice chardonnay is better than therapy and wine with conversation is the best antidote to unfaithful boyfriends, cruel bosses and encroaching middleage. You know nothing about wine except you like it. You believe whatever a label or sales assistant tells you. You`d like to learn more but frankly cannot understand what the fuss is about. As far as you´re concerned the best thing to do with wine is drink it. Wine nerds intimidate and annoy you. You are most likely a woman, 30-40 and control 23% of the market.

Do: Give up smoking. Don´t: Believe the label BEER DRINKER (0) You don´t drink wine, don´t care for wine, are overwhelmingly male, control none of the market and should not be in this article.

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HOPPING MAD BEER MADE IN MENDOZA! LUCY HOLDSWORTH CHECKS OUT JEROME

When a Mendocinian went to Prague, a friend introduced him to the joys of making beer and so, the indoctrinated wine man was converted. He came back to the Andes with what started as a hobby and became Mendoza´s best kept beverage secret. When word got out about the beer of the mountains ten years ago, Jerome the business was born. Now, in a wooden chalet hidden between pine trees and overlooking the mountain stream, El Salto creates some of the best beers you could hope to find.

I started off with a tour of the brewery, eager to wander off the vino beaten track. Eduardo, the son of the intrepid hop adventurer showed us around his affectionately nicknamed microscopic brewery due to its size. With odes to Argentina everywhere, an old kettle previously used to produce Dulce de Leche has been adapted to process the barley, and a paddle from the nearby rafting mecca of Potrerillos is used to stir the hop ´mash´. It´s basic and you wouldn´t want it any other way. Buenos Aires barley, hops from Patagonia and natural clear water that runs from the Andes.

Jerome´s labour of love means they then move the beer down to their basement to store it in tanks for up to seven months in order to cultivate the taste, one of the only breweries in South America to do so. Just when I thought I was safe, Eduardo tells me that their new experiment is a line that goes on to be stored in oak barrels previously home to Malbec. When in Rome, I reason.

“A paddle from the nearby rafting mecca of Potrerillos is used to stir the hop” When it comes to the final bottling stage, looking at the bashed tin can with curious tubes and spouts that father and son hand crafted, I can´t help thinking of the Wizard of Oz, but rest assured the final product tastes completely professional.

It´s now early evening and the brewery´s pub style restaurant is open for business. A few local fans and well informed tourists are eagerly waiting at the door and we all nestle into the cosy cabin to taste Jerome´s amber nectar.

Inside, bells and fondue sets hang from the wooden beams giving the place a distinctly Swiss feel. The logo, however, tells a different tale ´We´re not Belgian, not Irish nor German. We´re 100% Mendocinas´.

Eduardo is the nicest host you could hope to meet and his pride in his

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product is well deserved. He talks us through his beer menu which describes the colour and taste of his current five brands and the ideal food to accompany, which he also makes on site. A bitter and spicy Roja; light 3.5% Suave; Negra with a sweet bouquet of coffee, truffles and chocolate; a Rubia with a soft palate; and the Diablo with a self professed explosive finish that might have something to do with its 7.5% alcohol content.

“It isn´t long before everything takes on a rather hazy hue” Obviously in order to do a thorough review I sample all five and unsurprisingly it isn´t long before everything takes on a rather hazy hue. We´re given a melted cheese dish with garlic, spices and beer bran and freshly baked bread followed by the house speciality of Carre de Cerdo, a la Cerveza of course. Succulent pork with sourcrout, bacon, apples , peppercorns and fries. It´s fantastic.

Unbeknownst to us in the cabin, a storm has been brewing and twilight is transformed into an electrical storm. We´re plunged into darkness as the electricity goes before the generator kicks in and someone picks up a guitar. I´ve never had a lock-in 2300 metres up the Andes before but I´m more than happy to role with the punches.

Thunder claps, beer´s drained and cheese devoured. If I don´t have strange dreams tonight I´ll be amazed.

Its 9 o´clock and closing time at the inn. The storm is making its journey towards the city two hours away, but fortunately for us we´re staying only a stones throw away in the charming El Puesto hostel. Linking arms, my fellow patrons and I swagger the short walk home while attempting to sing and dodging the occasional donkey before slumping into our bunks. If you too fancy a little break from the Mendoza norm, head on up to El Salto and become one of the mountain beer´s growing fans.

Call in advance for opening hours and to make reservations for the weekend.

54 2624 483039 www.cervezajerome.com El Puesto Hostel & Bar – 54 261 156559937

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BELASCO DE BAQUEDANO

A SPANISH WINERY IN MENDOZA CHARLIE O’MALLEY SNIFFS OUT MENDOZA’S LATEST WINERY The wine world raised its eyebrows when the wine critic Robert Parker decided to insure his nose and then dropped its proverbial jaw when he valued it in the millions of dollars. However Parker was only putting a fiscal number on the supreme importance of aroma when tasting wine. The human nose can detect over 1,200 characteristics and a good wine can provide a considerable number of them.

Rose, violets, cherries and eucalyptus are only a few of the scents wine aficionados banter about when tasting wine and the acute sensitivity of a wine expert’s nose and their vast lexicon of adjectives can often intimidate many a wine beginner as they themselves can almost always smell nothing.

Don’t worry if your nose is playing dead. Picking up aromas is an acquired skill and it’s a fact that some people can smell better than others just as a good footballer can use his feet better than most of us foot draggers.

“Here you’ll find a long, scarlet hallway known as the aroma room” The question is; have you got a talented nose? There’s only one way to find out and that’s swirling a glass a Mendoza’s Malbec under your nose whilst here in the city. Or better still; get out to one of the province’s

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most interesting new wineries called Belasco de Baquedano. Here you’ll find a long, scarlet hallway known as the Aroma Room. 48 perspex stands line the walls, each emitting its own distinctive odor from an oil capsule when you flip a lever. Butter, geranium, game and musk are just some of the olfactory delights that will have you going; “really! I could have sworn it was chocolate!”

Belasco is a state-of-the-art facility built in Mendoza’s finest vineyard zone Agrelo, a sub-region of Lujan de Cuyo. The winery is surrounded by 70 hectares of 100-year old vines in what is regarded as one of the best areas for Malbec, a source of grapes that is the envy of many a winemaker.

“The stark, minimalist design is especially interesting to the wine tourist” The handsome palladium style winery has a dramatic backdrop of ice-capped Andean peaks. Inside there are red-lacquered concrete floors and glistening steel tanks. No expense was spared as regards using the latest technology such as mechanical steam barrel washers and refrigerated grape chambers. The stark, minimalist design is especially interesting to the wine tourist as it leads to an all glass tasting room upstairs and a ligh-filled eatery known as the Navarra

restaurant that do special five-course lunches designed around the wine. It is fast becoming the place for a winery lunch in Mendoza.

The restaurant’s name refers to the region in Spain where the owners emanate from and own 4 other wineries.

Their Argentine operation has wasted no time winning accolades with Parker himself awarding the Swinto label 90 points. The Malbec-only labels are rich inky creations that show fruit to the fact that only 1.5 tonnes of grapes is squeezed out of each acre. The consultant is none other then Bertrand Bourdil, one of only two winemakers in the world that can boast three wines with a perfect 100 point pedigree. Could he possibly be the first to achieve this with Malbec?

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Other labels include a crisp rosé called Rosa and a great value Malbec called Ar Guentota (Huarpe Indian for “Cuyo Soul”). As a sign of the wineries increasing presence on the Argentine stage, Argentine president Cristina Kirchner chose it as the site to launch this year’s Vendimia festivities and announced a 50% reduction on wine export tax – a big boost to the industry. One wonders did she wander the aroma room beforehand to test the air.

Belasco de Baquedano, Agrelo, Lujan de Cuyo. 30 minutes from the city center. Tel (261) 524-7864; www.belascomalbec.com. Open for guided visits everyday. Tours and lunches require prior booking.

FLYING WITH CONDORS LUCY HOLDSWORTH PARAGLIDES OVER MENDOZA

Fly Excursions offer tandem paragliding trips from Cerro Arco, a 15minute drive from Mendoza city centre. Their slogan is ‘The Dream of Flying with the City at Your Feet’. I’m bouncing around their 4x4, lurching up the Cerro with a fear of flying and a dream of landing gently with legs still attached to my feet. Encouragingly the team do a great job of putting my mind at ease, especially when they tell me of their 15 years experience without any accidents.

Mendoza is considered the best place in Argentina to paraglide due to the weather conditions. But what about the hail, the infamous scourge of the precious vines, not to mention my precious parachute?

Nothing to fear apparently, with Mendoza’s meteorological office monitoring conditions at all times. Mendoza is also famous for the Zonda, the desert wine that whips through the city covering everything in layers of dust. When the Zonda comes, it is between August and November so I know that I am safe on that front until my pilot Horacio obviously points out that no wind at all is the real danger. Having reached the top however, wind gusts, hair flaps and my hat makes a bid for freedom.

“If somebody told you to jump off a cliff, would you?”

The weather conditions must be just right as within minutes I have knee pads, helmet and the all important parachute. Horacio is strapped behind me and telling me to run of the mountain and under no circumstances sit down until he says so. I’m channeling all my energy into following instructions and not listening to the wise words of someone who once asked if somebody told you to jump off a cliff, would you?

I cannot begin to describe just how incredible the experience is. I could cry with joy. Not only is the sensation of flying better than any 20

dream, the view is simply stunning. We are gliding over the rolling mountains, like Teradactiles over Jurassic Park. It’s great to see the city from this height and put everything into perspective but the real joy is the natural landscape, the desert floor with ripples of mountains under a now setting sun. Horacio is trying to explain how our wings work by pulling at various levers but I’m not quite sure I want to know. Ignorance is sometimes bliss and I’m perfectly happy imagining I’m a Condor. More than anything it is surprisingly serene. There’s no loud crashing of wind, it’s just a very elegant way of getting off a mountain.

“I’m deliriously happy, one with paragliding and two that I’m alive” As the landing pad comes into sight I’m rather reluctant to aim for it, especially as we are having to corkscrew rather sickeningly round and round in order to lose altitude. I remember something about focusing on the horizon and keep my cool as Horacio tells me to stand and run until he says stop. His slightly longer legs reach the ground first and as I peddle away mid-air he has everything under control. As I touch ground I’m deliriously happy, one with paragliding and two that I’m alive. I could kiss Horacio if only I could focus on him. Staggering around, drunk on motion sickness but high on life I sway off to the base’s bar and to book myself in for another trip.

Argentina is renowned fro affordable paragliding with incredible views and I can’t recommend it or the Fly Excursion team highly enough. $250AR per person Open all year, depending on weather conditions 156151159 / 156506155 flyexcursion@yahoo.com.ar

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Paragliding off Cerro Arco

SANTA MARIA DE LOS ANDES LUCY HOLDSWORTH CHECKS OUT SOME PRIVATE VINEYARDS IN MENDOZA

Owning a vineyard is one of these things that people dream about dreaming about. The idea is perfect but just too implausible to give any real consideration. Even for those who really know their wine, the where, when and how could be too overwhelming. Or perhaps not. Santa Maria de los Andes is the first vineyard community to offer the opportunity of owning a vineyard and becoming a winemaker for locals, tourists, novices and experts alike.

They are selling 1 to 6 hectare plots from their 550 hectare private vineyard estate in Agrelo, home to Argentina’s most celebrated wineries. Real Estate in Argentina is growing at a fast pace and Mendoza is proof of this, especially in the last few years. The stream of revenues for a typical owner come from selling wine, or grapes, but specially from the rise in the value of land. Today, the same plot in areas like Napa Valley or Tuscany costs many times more, with Mendoza expected to increase its land value 10% annually. This would help to answer the ‘where’.

“SMA is under the tutelage of acclaimed winemaker Alberto Antonini” With one question answered I indulge in a daydream, picturing myself skipping through my vines, muttering encouraging cultivating words to my baby grapes before I realize I wouldn’t know a baby Malbec from a baby Merlot. Which brings me to ‘how’. SMA is under the tutelage of acclaimed winemaker Alberto Antonini and his experienced bilingual enologist team. They suggest which vines should be planted on your

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land and keep you regularly updated on the development of your vineyard with accommodation on site for any visits you might want to make. Just how much involvement you have is entirely up to you.

The growing period is four years, but on the third year, vines will produce about 7,000 kilos of high quality grapes per hectare. The average market price last year was around US$0,7 per kilo. On the 4th year, your private vineyard estate is fully productive and you will be able to start producing top quality grapes ready to be collected during the harvest season in March.

“Your wine, it could be in the market six months after harvest” Working with a team of experts from planning the post-harvest, selecting the winemaking process of your wine and choosing the different winemaking alternatives is not only interesting but potentially rewarding. Depending on the type and barrel aging that you’ve chosen for your wine, it could be in the market six months after harvest, or aged one or two years before being ready for consumption and sale.

10,000 kilos per hectare will produce more or less 6,000 bottles of super-premium wines per harvest. The idea of having 6,000 bottles of wine on your hands could be daunting, depending on your view point. Fortunately, the help doesn’t end there. The team are skilled in reaching foreign markets and have been selected as the Best Development of Argentina 2008, by CNBC International Property Awards and the New York Times. www.santamariadelosandes.com

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the TOP 20

WINERIES to visit We have awarded scores to the best wineries conducting tours; 50 points for just existing, than 10 attributes; hospitality, food, architecture, accommodation, wine quality, guides, history, hygiene, tastings and flexibilty, each scoring 0 to 4. Finally a 1 to 10 score on overall experience.

Tapiz 94 points. The complete wine experience with wine lodge Club

Tapiz the most desired place to stay and the restaurant Terruño one of the best in the province. Most instructive wine tour with tank and barrel tastings. Ruta Provincial 15, Km 32, Agrelo, Luján de Cuyo. Tel (0261) 490 0202. www.tapiz.com

Ruca Malen 93 points. The emphasis is on excellent food, great

guiding and first class wines. The chef Lucas Bustos does special wine and food pairings. Ample tastings of all the range. Ruta Nacional 7, Km 1059, Agrelo, Lujan de Cuyo. Tel. (0261) 410 6214. www.bodegarucamalen.com

Carlos Pulenta

93 points. Architecturally stunning, it has a tasting room where one entire wall is a subterranean cross section of the actual vineyard clay. French restaurant La Bourgogne voted the best winery restaurant in the world. Roque Saenz Peña 3135, Vistalba, Luján de Cuyo.

Tel. (0261) 498 9400. www.carlospulentawines.com

Pulenta Estate 87 points. A new, ultra modern facility with stylish

underground tasting room overlooking barrel room. Sit amidst the slick steel and concrete architecture whilst trying one of the finest Sauvignon Blancs in Mendoza. Ruta 86, Alto Agrelo. Tel. (0261) 420 0800.

Alta Vista 87 points. A masterful mix of modernity and tradition. The

100-year old winery is set in beautiful gardens and vineyards 20 minutes south of the city. Álzaga 3972, Chacras de Coria, Luján de Cuyo. Tel (0261) 496 4684. www.altavistawines.com

Tempus Alba 87 points. An immaculate family run facility making

very good wines. Do a varietal tasting on their sunny roof terrace whilst ovelooking the vines. Perito Moreno 572, Maipu. Tel.(0261) 481 3501. www.tempusalba.com

Finca La Celia 87 points. Valle de Uco may be famous for its new

wineries but this one goes way back and is one of the oldest in Mendoza.

Av. de Circunvalación s/n, Eugenio Bustos, San Carlos. Tel 413 4400

Lagarde 86 points. Has the oldest white wine in South America - a

1942 Semillon and a hand crafted sparkling wine operation. The surrounding vines are over 100 years old. Now serves lunches. Ave. San Martin 1745, Luján de Cuyo. Tel. (0261) 498 0011 ext. 27

O. Fournier 93 points. Architecturally innovative. Excellent lunches Sottano 83 points. Three generations of winemakers put all their in the modernist visitor center and producing world class wines.

Los Indios s/n, La Consulta, San Carlos. Tel. (02622) 451 088. www.ofournier.com

Andeluna 90 points. A brand, spanking new installation, the tasting

room has an inviting, old world feel. Spectacular lunches are available with reservations (minimum six people). Ruta Provincial 89, Km 11, Gualtallary, Tupungato. Tel (0261) 429 9299 ext 113. www.andeluna.com

Familia Zuccardi 89 points. A professional, far sighted operation

and one of the most visited wineries in Mendoza. Guides enthusiastic and knowledgable. Attractive restaurant with asado-style lunches. Ruta Provincial 33, Km 7.5, Maipu. Tel (0261) 441 0000. www.familiazuccardi.com

Achaval Ferrer 88 points. Barrel tasting includes a unique sampling of each varietal that makes up their top scoring Altamira. Calle Cobos 2601; Perdriel, Luján de Cuyo. Tel. (0261) 488 1131. www.achaval-ferrer.com

Carinae

88 points. A small, charming winery. Highly rated for its up close and personal tour and well-honed wines. Videla Arande 2899, Cruz de Piedra, Maipú. Tel. (0261) 499 0470. www.carinaevinos.com

Flichman 87 points. The building itself is a charming, pink hued

colonial style bodega, set in the leafy vineyards of southern Maipu. Munives 800, Barrancas, Maipú. Tel. (0261) 497 2039. www.flichman.com

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knowledge and expertise into an excellent new boutique winery. Ruta 7, Luján de Cuyo. www.sottano.com.

Decero

83 points. A stunning new winery and architecturally impressive with an ample tasting room. The guides give an excellent tour and sit down tasting. Agrelo, Luján de Cuyo. Tel. (0261) 524 4747

Nieto Senetiner 81 points. One of the prettiest wineries in

Mendoza. Wines to try include their brass labelled Bonarda. Guardia Vieja no number, Vistalba, Luján de Cuyo. Tel. (0261) 498 0315. www.nietosenetiner.com.ar

Fabre Montmayou 80 points. Another French owned winery making impressive wines. Roque Sanz Peña no number, Vistalba, Luján de Cuyo.Tel. (0261) 498 2330. www.domainevistalba.com

Clos de Chacras 80

points. A quaint, pretty winery with atmospheric cellar and fascinating family history. Thier wines are lush examples of what is possible in Mendoza. Monte Libano S/N, Chacras de Coria, Luján de Cuyo. Tel. (0261) 496 1285

Rutini La Rural 79 points. Fascinating well-stocked museum with invaluable pieces of winemaking history such as cow hide wine presses and leather buckets. Montecaseros 2625 Coquimbito, Maipu.

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dining out mendoza city Avenida Mexico

Mexican food in Argentina, as a rule, is either bland or sweet, given the fact that the Argentine palate avoids hot spices. Avenida Mexico is finally a bite of the proper stuff that will give you a bright red glow (but only if you ask for ¨picante¨). The décor is bright and stereotypical with some funky modern art for sale, and the service is friendly and attentive. Order the shared fajitas for the best dining experience (don´t worry if you run out, they´ll give you more)! Hands down the best margaritas in Mendoza are made in this establishment, get the traditional with salt.

Average cost $45 AR. Tue-Sun from 20:30 to 1:30. Telephone (0261) 4299119 Juan B. Justo 836, Mendoza City. reservas@ avenidamexico.com.ar

ANNA BISTRO

Anna Bistro

Summer´s here, al fresco´s a must and no one does it better than Anna Bistro. Outside the main restaurant is a beautiful atmospheric garden, dotted with plants, tables and candles that are reminiscent of Thailand, though the owners are keen to point out that the entire concept has Mendoza in mind. There is attention to every detail from presentation to cooking techniques with outside clay

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ovens and open air grill in addition to the capable kitchen. We chose a Pinot Gris from the extensive wine list and plumped for fish although there is a range of appetising meat.

Excellent service provided delicate dishes of ceviche and cesto de portobello – pastry piled with mushrooms and walnuts. To be charmed and treated, go for lunch, afternoon tea, beers, cocktails or dinner – you won´t want to leave, and after several Cocktail Anna´s on their low lying sofas, you may find it difficult to. Average price for a meal without wine $40 AR. Av. Juan B. Justo 161, Tel. 425 1818, Open every day, lunch (available all day) and dinner.

la aldea

Best friends Gustavo and Charlie have realized their dream of opening a restaurant together with this hip new place on Aristides Villanueva. They pride themselves on being the only restaurant on Aristides with traditional Argentine bbq asado and wine. Although this rustic style restaurant specializes in beef, it has quite a diverse menu that includes salads, sandwiches, pizzas and a unique selection of papas fritas (French fries). There is a pretty good wine list for this area of town and there is seating out front on the lively street. There is also a lounge in the back filled with antique furniture; perfect for talking and enjoying a drink. The plates are big, the wait staff is friendly, and the location is central for the best nightlife. Average meal without wine $20 AR. Aristides Villanueva, Mendoza City.

Open Everyday 11:00am- 3am

contrast with buddhas and disco balls and all to the sound of latino beats. The chef takes on sushi, tablas, tapas, pizza, curry, fish and meat, and wins. Try the slightly misleading, yet very pleasant chicken curry - battered chicken balls, coconut cream dip and stir fried vegetables. Their fritada de mar is a lightly fried selection of white bait, mussels, calamari and chunks of salmon with piqante and limon shots for dipping. We also recommend their fantastic trucha, perched on top of spring rolls and drizzled with a cheese sauce. Again, sounds strange on paper, works well on the night. Save some room for the postres with flan, chocolate and fruit selections that will have you in raptures. An epic wine list, charming host and attentive waiter tend to our every need. Average price for meal without wine $50-$60 AR. Aristides Villanueva 650, Mendoza City. Tel. 4299836. Open Mon – Sat 8pm to 1am

Mi Tierra

If you are interested in an elegant take on sampling Argentine wine and carne, two blocks from Plaza Independencia is Mi Tierra. Something of a rarity in the city,

Sofia

Asia meets Cuba meets Mendoza at Sofia from menu to décor to ambience. Brick fireplaces, leather sofas and impressive bookshelves

mi tierra

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dining out they offer flights of wine - a tasting of three glasses in the demure townhouse´s four rooms designated to wineries Norton, Catena Zapata, Escorihuela Gascon and Terrazas de los Andes. Attentive staff greet in the marble floored hall, showcasing Mi Tierra´s touch of class. A sweetbreads, lamb and carne empanadas tasting with spicy tomato salsa is well worth trying. Follow this with the meat tasting experience for two giving you the opportunity to try regional delicacies without having to get your hands dirty and with menus in both Spanish and English, you´ll be sure to know exactly what you´re getting. Disco chicken, pork loin, goat´s cheese pasta and fish are light alternatives whose quality hasn´t been overlooked by the chef. Average price for a meal without wine per person; 50 pesos. San Lorenzo y Mitre, Tel 425 0035 Open Mon-Sat, lunch and dinner.

freshest local ingredients of the season for their cocina cultural, an international cuisine with a mediterranean touch, composed by the chef himself. The wine list is extensive, maybe the best in Mendoza, and the bottles stored in a specially constructed cava. Specialities include Bramare Marchiori Malbec (rated 93 points by Wine Spectator) and there is something for every palate and wallet. Live background music Wed-Sat: bandoneón, violin or flamenco guitar. Average cost without wine 35-40 pesos per person. Belgrano 1069, Tel. 4204322, open Mon-Sat from 9pm. Reservation recommended Fri+Sat.

Señor Buque

Sarmiento street west of Plaza Independencia is where most of Mendoza’s high-end parrilla style restaurants are located, many of varying style and quality. Señor Buque is undoubtedly one of the best, with attentive service and English speaking waiters. The menu is definitely for the carnivorous with giant 700 gram tibon steak as well as kid goat specialities. There is a mixed grill offering beef, chicken and pork.

A salad bar offers 20 varieties of greens for those who like their veg. Also on the menu is a variety of fresh pasta, seafood casseroles and paella, all washed down with a decent list of 40 labels. Sarmiento 777. Tel. 425 3667.

Open from 10am to 2am.

La Sal

If you like ambience with a laidback atmospehere, try La Sal. The chefs at this classy restaurant change the menu every three months so they can always use the 28

la sal

Azafran

On a stretch where parillas reign, Azafran is a jewel oozing class. From the twinkling lights of the patio to the beautiful interior, its apparent that you are somewhere special.

Azafran, meaning Saffron, lives up to its name by their wall of spices and locally sourced preserves and olive oils. Wine and food work in perfect harmony when having chosen your meal, the sommelier then helps to select an accompanying wine from the 500 labels sold at winery prices with a 5 peso lunch and 8 peso dinner corkage fee. Our tasting menu delivered food fit for a king. Regional dishes with little something extra - rare steak with

goats cheese, orange sorbet with olive oil and desserts that even those without a sweet tooth would die for.

Sarmiento 765, Tel. 4294200 or 4599009 , open Mo-Sat 12:30-4pm, 8:30pm to close.

outside city center Suiza Miniatur - Pica Piedras

Imagine a typical Swiss chalet surrounded by forests in the foothills of the Andes. Pica Piedras is the most Alpine dining experience in Argentina north of Bariloche. Its Swiss owners display their European sensibilities by conversing in Spanish, German, Italian and English. The restaurant name refers to the fondue speciality, served on a slab of granite with a variety of sauces. This is as authentic as you can get and the countryside surroundings 30 minutes south of the City only add to the experience. Other dishes include roasted potato tortillas and rolls stuffed with smoked ham and pork. Average price for meal without wine $50 - $60 ARG. Ruta Panamericana, on the way to Cacheuta hot springs, Colonia Suiza.

Open everyday except Mondays. Midday to midnight. Tel. 154700827 / 156541050.

4962267. Open Tuesday to Sunday from 8pm. Lunches served Saturday and Sunday.

COLONIA SUIZA

Club Tapiz Resort´s TERRUÑO

Tucked away among the sprawling vineyards of Maipu lies Club Tapiz Resort and its lovely restaurant Terruño. This handsome eatery boasts an elegant interior, excellent service and a wine list that is sure to please even the most finicky oenophile. Celebrity Argentine chef Max Casa has drawn up a tantalising menu that includes top-notch lomo steaks, a rotating range of salads and a savory ginger/honey chicken dish that is second to none. Call ahead for dinner reservations.

Average price for a meal with wine per person: 40-50 pesos. Ruta 60 s/n 5517 Maipú, Mendoza, (15 minutes by taxi) Tel. 496-0131, open for Lunch 12:00-15:00 every day / Dinner Sun-Thu 20:00-23:00, Fri&Sat ‘til 24:00.

la encantada

La Encantada

La Encantada is very much as its name implies – an “enchanted place” that was officially declared a historical site in 2005. A beautiful adobe building with wood-posted gallery surrounds a lawn courtyard with 120-year old sycamore trees. The speciality is “chivo al disco”, kid goat cooked on a traditional grill that is in reality an improvised plough.

Also on the carnivorous menu are rabbit, 29

pork and beef with a healthy dash of fresh salads. The owners Federico and Romina are constantly on hand to make sure everything flows. Speaking of which, on the wine list is a very decent wine called Vinalia which just happens to be made next door. La Encantada is a 15-minute taxi ride south of Mendoza city center and makes for a sunny rustic lunch or balmy, romantic dinner. Average cost without wine $70 AR. Reservations required. Carril Gomez 3602, Coquimbito, Maipu, Tel. (261) 524 1666/ 524 1667 / 156229957; www.mendozatierradentro.com.ar

Casa de Campo

Casa de Campo exudes authentic rustic charm. A 15 minute taxi ride from the city and you´re in the heart of the east Maipu wine district. Think welcoming casa with wooden beams, intimate tables in with the large selection of wine and small but lively verandah all of which is popular with locals and tourists alike. Discipline is needed with the very more-ish homemade warm bread, prosciuttio and olive oil if you are going to allow enough room for their mouth watering typical rural Argentine fair.

Fantastic succulent rabbit and suckling pig cooked traditionally in their clay oven, pollo al vino blanco or ¨Grandma´s menu¨ dish of the day showcases local grown produce.

Average price for a 3 - course meal without wine $30-40 ARG. Urquiza 1516, Coquimbito, Maipu. Tel. (0261) 4811605. Open everyday 12 pm. to 6 pm.

The opening of Leyenda bar and restaurant is part of this renaissance. Styled along the lines of a traditional British pub, the new nightspot offers a varied menu of seafood and grillhouse fare. There is beer on draught and a fine variety of wines.

Average price per meal $30 AR. Leyenda, San Martin 1823, Ciudad.

La Tasca

This small and intimate restaurant specialises in Mediterranean and Spanish food.

Scarlet walls are adorned with Mendocino art and the inviting atmosphere seduces you into passing the whole night there over excellent wine and tapas. The clientele is a healthy mix of locals and tourists and the service is always spot on. The menu is a rich collection of delicious fare such as cubed codfish and prawns coated with mustard and honey, or oysters and mussels baked with gourmet cheese. It also includes more traditional dishes such as goat or pork tossed with honey and mustard sauce. The dried spinach is crunchilicious. Average cost without wine 30-40 pesos.

Montevideo 117, Tel. 4200603. Open TueSat from 9 pm, sometimes opens for lunch.

Leyenda

The Alameda is a beautiful stretch of sycamore trees and grass on the northern end of Ave. San Martin. It has long been tipped as the new nightlife area in the city.

casa de campo

bars Clubs - Discotecas - Boliches Just a quick note and reminder to anyone who is looking to experience the night life in Mendoza, if you’re looking to party until the sun comes up that’s fine but you need to get there before 2:30am because they will shut their doors on any late comers.

Mendoza City ARISTIDES VILLANUEVA

This is the Beer Street of Mendoza and should be treated like one long bar. A continuation of Ave. Colon, Areeeesteedez (as its known to the locals) runs all the way up to the park and is crammed with pubs, bars, restaurants. In the summer months it is alive with alfresco drinkers and has a great atmosphere. Some bars are hip and trendy whilst others are just shops with seats outside. Go late.

BELIEVE IRISH PUB

One of the few real bars in Mendoza with nice island counter and high stools to prop yourself up on and sample their great collection of draught beers. Popular with travelers, it also has a great choice of bottled beers (including liter bottles of Warsteiner) and decent pub grub. TV screens display music videos and often there´s a DJ in attendance. Monday night is International night and draws a crowd. Wednesdays is “After Office” with a DJ throwing out 80s and 90s tunes. Great place for any big sporting games.

Colon and España 241. Tel. 429 5567

THE VINES OF MENDOZA

As the first and only tasting room in South America, The Vines of Mendoza offers the broadest selection of premium boutique wines in Argentina. Enjoy a tasting tour through Argentine wine country by choosing one of their specially selected wine flights, or relax on the terrace with a glass from their list of over 40 limited production wines. An exclusive wine club is also available to allow guests to enjoy these impossible to find wines back in the United States and Europe.

Espejo 567, Tel. 0261 438-1031

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the vines - park hyatt Located next to Grill Q in the prestigious Park Hyatt Mendoza, you will find The Vines- Wine Bar & Vinoteca, where you can relax in the intimate wine bar and outdoor patio with a glass of Argentina’s best, accompanied by tapas and a variety of cheese plates. They offer seasonal selection of wines-by-the-glass, and an exceptional collection of Argentina’s 100 best wines available for purchase to carry or ship home. Also find out more about their unique vineyard ownership program, Private Vineyard Estates. Open daily 11am - 12 midnight.

Park Hyatt Mendoza, Chile 112. Tel. 4381031

Por Aca

This is one of the only bars in downtown that has some dancing and a DJ and on Friday and Saturday nights will give you the club feeling without having to pay an entrance fee. With smog machines and lighting this place does a great job of entertaining their guests. It’s a bar so it’s small but there are a few lounge style rooms and a quieter area up stairs for those who want a little more room. All ages gather here but it is probably a 25 to 30 range. Located on Aristides Villanueva 557.

Queen

Mendoza may appear as a conservative buttoned down city but it has a thriving alternative scene and a vibrant gay nightlife. Queen is a pioneering club showcasing the city’s most colourful and eccentric night owls. This medium sized club is located several blocks south of the bus terminal and is open Fridays and Saturdays, the second night attracting a mixed crowd who come for fantastic drag shows followed by dance and electronic music.

25 de Mayo 318, Dorrego Tel. 431-5846

La Reserva Pub

This is the best disco bar in the city center with a healthy mix of transsexuals, shemales, gays, strays and straights to keep a dancefloor wallflower entertained. The drag shows and

cabaret acts are flamboyant and outrageous and worthy in sophistication of a 1920s Berlin revue.

MC tranny La Turca is a Mendoza legend and the dance shows are often peppered with witty comedy sketches. The bar attracts a surprisingly mixed, alternative crowd who are known to jump on stage and join in the fun. Go late.

Rivadavia 32, Tel. 420 3531

outside city center Iskra

One of the bigger nightclubs close to the city center. It has a huge dance floor in the biggest of its three rooms, and two bars. The crowd ranges from about 18 to late 20´s and it just varies upon the night. The music is a mix of rock and regaeton, with the occasional cuarteto song. The cover is 20 pesos and again ladies are free. Any taxi will know where it is, but it is. Located on Ave San Martin 905 in the direction of Lujan. For more details visit www.iskradiscopub.com.ar.

carilo nightclub and restaurant

The newly opened restaurant is the latest extension to one of Mendoza’s best superclubs Carilo in El Challao. Now you can eat, drink and dance under several terraces, roofs and stars in one location a ten-minute drive from the city centre on a Friday or Saturday night. The restaurant puts together alfresco dining and cabaret with a plasma screen showing various divas in concert, getting you in the mood for the night´s dancing ahead. Energetic waiters manage the tiered seating and deliver light meat, fish and vegetarian dishes ensuring it´s still possible to hit the dance-floor at the end.

Should you forget that the night is still young, vodka, speed and fernet are on hand in addition to the good selection of wine. The nightclub has resident and guest DJs on Friday nights playing many styles of electronica including hardcore techno in the club’s four dancefloors, whilst Saturday nights is more retro with a playlist from the 80s and 90s.

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useful information

Airport Tel: 448 0017 Accesso Norte s/n. El Plumerillo Bus Terminal Tel: 431 3001 Av. de Acceso Este y Costanera. Bus Routes Maipu Linea 10 Nº 171, 172, 173, calle Rioja and Garibaldi, Chacras Nº 115 or 116, 25 de Mayo and Montevideo.

Gendarmeria Nacional Tel 423 0120 Info on tunnel and road conditions Hospitals Hospital Central Tel 429 7100. Private Hospital Clinica de Cuyo José Vicente Zapata 63 Tel 4059000 info@clinicadecuyosa.com.ar Museums Museo Moyano Lakeside museum shaped like a house-boat with giant condors and mountain mummies. Parque General San Martin, South end of the Lake. Tel: 428.7666. Espacio Contemporáneo de Arte (ECA) Ornate Goliath in the micro-center with simultaneous exhibitions of contemporary art. 9 de Julio and Gutiérrez Streets, Tel: 429.0117. Museo del Area Fundacional Located in Mendoza´s historical district, has excavation sites of centuries old civilization. Plaza Pedro del Castillo, Alberdi y Videla del Castillo Tel: 425.6927. Museo de Pasado Cuyano 1873 house-turned-museum has sixteen separate rooms dedicated to Cuyano history. Montevideo 544 Tel: 423.6031. Museo Historico San Martin Everything you could ever want to know about General San Martin. Remedios de Escalada de San Martín 1843, La Alameda. Tel: 428.7947.

Museo Popular Callejero ¨Popular Street Museum¨ is a collection of stand-alone boxes preserving Mendoza´s cultural past. Las Heras Street, between 25 de Mayo and Peru.

English Hairdresser London Way, Espejo 724, Tel: 423 3991.

Dentist Rodrigo Martinez Emilio Civit 356 Tel 4231200. Money Currency Exchange Maguitur San Martin 1203 Tel (0261) 4251575. Travellers Cheques Supervielle Av San Martin 1198.

English Conversation Group Karl Schroeter Tu Café, Colon 347 Wednesdays 10pm. TRAVELER TIPS in mendoza Shipping Wine You cannot do it by ordinary post. Courier is expensive (at least $12 US a bottle). The only viable way is to carry it in a special styrofoam wine box that can be checked in with your luggage. Such wine boxes can be bought at most wine stores or at wine tour company Trout & Wine, Sarmiento 133. As for limits entering your country, in most cases you can take as much as you want as long as you declare it and pay a nominal fee. Exceptions are Iran, Dubai and Salt Lake City.

Crime Mendoza has its fair share of sneaky, opportunist snatch and run thieves. Have nothing valuable in your knapsack or handbag. Sew passport and credit cards into secret knickers pocket and you should be okay. Danger spots: bus terminal and internet cafes. Note; hostel lockers are not safe. Bike Tours in Maipu The most economical way to do a wine tour in Mendoza. Take bus (see above) to Urquiza street where you’ll find several bike rental companies. Some are notorious for dodgy bikes. Check and double check you get a good mount as a puncture can cause a mini nightmare. Head south, as north of Maipu is urban and not pretty. Recommended wineries: Rutini, Tempus Alba, Di Tommasso and certainly Carinae. When returning have a late lunch at the excellent Casa de Campo or the elegant Domaine Dumont. Nightclubs In most nightclubs you have to queue twice for drink which can get slightly exasperating as the night wears on. It is wise to buy several drink tickets at once for easy, unimpeded flow of alcohol. Many nightclubs are situated 200 light years away in Chacras which can cause problems getting home. a

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Navarro Correas Lopez La Rural Baquero 1886 Tempus Alba Carinae Flichman Casa de Campo Club Tapiz Mr. Hugo La Encantada Domaine Dumont Posada Cavieres Di Tomasso

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