Wine Republic , edición octubre noviembre 2010 by Wine Republic

MENDOZA`S FREE MAGAZINE

Nº46 OCT / NOV 2010

Siesta Time

picnics in mendoza winery architecture climbing aconcagua the best wineries to visit

w w w. w i n e - r e p u b l i c. c o m 1

CONTENTS NEWS

BARS

Bodega Express, The Iceman Cometh, Young Turks ........................6

Bar Hopping Mendoza ..............................................................26

MEETING MENDOZA

RESTAURANTS

Siesta Time ................................................................................. 8

Dining Out .................................................................................. 30

Vineyard Picnics ......................................................................... 11 Casa de Fader .............................................................................. 22 The Right Boots...........................................................................28

MAPS & TIPS Useful Information: Emergency, Airport, Wine Shipping, Crime, Night Clubs and Taxi Services .........................................................32

Wine

Map of Maipu ..............................................................................32

The Winery Guide The best wineries to visit ..................................18

Map of Chacras de Coria .............................................................32

Picnic Wishlist ..............................................................................12

Map of Mendoza City Center ......................................................34

Winetecture ................................................................................. 13

CREDITS Issue October - November 2010 10,000 Copies Published by Seven Colors S.A. Mendoza, Argentina Tel. +54 (261) 425-5613 E-mail: amanda@wine-republic.com Editor: Charlie O’Malley Assistant Editor: Amanda Barnes Publicidad: Ana Laura Aguilera (155018874), Mariana Gomez-Rus publicidad@wine-republic.com, mariana@wine-republic.com Design: Beattub, www.beattub.com.ar Printer: Artes Gráficas UNION Contributing Authors: Charlie O´ Malley, Amanda Barnes, Jenny Eagle, Roxana Bordignon, Silvia Lopez Opinions expressed in this magazine are not necessarily the editorial opinions of Wine Republic.

www.wine-republic.com 4

news REPUBLIC Bodega Express You might think that wine tourism is a new phenomenon here in Mendoza but the fact is it was easier to visit a winery back in the 1930´s than it is today. Back then, when wine barrels came as big as houses and people drank 70 liters per person (per annum, man, woman and child) you could catch a train to Maipu or Lujan de Cuyo. Whereas nowadays you have to brave buses, bicycles and lunatic drivers to get to a grape house. The good news is that this is all about to change since the governor went on a shopping spree in California recently and came back with eleven tram trains from San Diego (they cost 3.4 million dollars). The plan is to run people out to Maipu from the central railway station on Belgrano and the tram lines plan to be well oiled and operating by the harvest festivities in March 2011. Maipu is where Mendoza’s original wine boom happened back in the 1880s, largely propelled by a new railway line to Buenos Aires that became a river of wine and a money train to the province. There is a historical irony in the fact that now the train is once again returning to breathe life back into a once important wine region.

By Charlie O’Malley

that are essential to the region´s inhabitants and hugely important to key industries such as winemaking. However, those mountains hold more than just water and there is stiff opposition to the bill by mining interests and some provincial governments (the Mendoza government has chosen to sit on the fence). Just north of Mendoza on the Chilean border is the last known mega gold find in the World called Pascua Lama, a controversial billion dollar mining operation in San Juan province that environmentalists allege will damage glaciers and pollute water sources. This and another big mine called Veladero have become huge earners for the San Juan government and the provincial administration is fearful the new bill could hinder the development of Pascua Lama and the province`s economy. Mining is an issue that refuses to go away (Mendoza boasts one of the world´s biggest uranium deposits after all but here there is very little mining) and this bill means the debate will continue.

Young Turks If Glaciers leave you cold, warm up at one of Mendoza’s newest luxury offerings – Entre Cielos Haman & Spa. Not just any old thermal watering hole, Entre Cielos recreates a traditional Turkish style environment with all the shiney mod cons you can reach for. Steam, foam and massage therapy are combined with traditional bath practices that go back to Roman times and the first to be enjoyed in Argentina. Located in the rural splendour of Vistalba, the spa is a brand, new spanking facility that will also boast a boutique hotel and restaurant and is owned and operated by countrymen who are famous as masters of hospitality – the Swiss. www.entrecielos.com

The Iceman Cometh The average speed of a glacier is around one meter per year which is just about as fast as the progress of a controversial Glacier Law that is currently crawling through Argentina’s legislative process. The bill, which has finally passed in Congress but stalled in the Senate, seeks to ban mining and oil drilling on and around icefields in the Andes. The reason is to protect valuable freshwater reserves ©William Casey

siesta time

Amanda Barnes picks her best places to picnic

At the foot of the Andes, Mendoza’s mountainside location and (usually) agreeable climate lends it perfectly to pretty picnics. Here are some of our top suggestions:

Picnic in the Park

One of Mendoza´s most popular picnic spots sits right in the city: the colossal Parque San Martin. Even larger than the city centre, this endless park is the perfect place for romancing couples or young families. Weekends are always packed with locals holstering their mate tea while reclining on a fold-up chair. A lake, a fountain, sculptures, limitless green lawns and even a zoo make Parque San Martin a picnic shoe-in. Essential ingredient – a sun umbrella as the shady spots are taken early.

Potrerillos

If a sparkling blue lake (or rather a cleverly disguised dam) reflecting the boundless skies and magnificient mountains sounds like your ideal picnic scene then head to Potrerillos with your wicker basket. This is a popular spot where you can find spaces for an asado

(barbecue) or just sit by the water to watch the world, and maybe a few windsurfers, go by. There is a bus service to Potrerillos leaving from the main bus terminal operated by Uspallata bus company. Essential ingredient – sunscreen as there are no trees.

Cachueta

Cachueta`s hot springs have been drawing people in for hundreds of years and the warm pools offer a perfect post-picnic dip. Many Mendocinos make their way to Cachueta for an asado during the weekend and park up at the top of the mountain road before scrambling down to the free springs and large rocks at the bottom. If you feel a little less adventurous or do not have access to a car, take a tour up to the springs and bring your own lunch. If you like been spoiled go into the upscale hotel next door and enjoy lunch on the lawn. Essential ingredient - flip flops.

The High Road to Chile

Potrerillos

We don’t suggest climbing Aconcagua for your picnic but the provincial park is quite a picturesque spot to sit with your thermos and tea. And that is about all you can take sadly because the park ranger will not let you in with food unless you have a permit. However, do not dismay - there are lots of attractive stops along the way to the park (a 3-hour drive from Mendoza) which are suitable for unpacking that basket while looking on at the great spectrum of colour in the mountains. One of the most intriguing is Parque Punta de Vacas, a small gathering of picnic tables in a valley made famous by the pacifist writer Sisco. It is just a shame the view is a busy truck stop. Uspallata town has a simple, wooded campsite where you can stop for lunch or keep going straight until you find Darwin’s Petrified Forest

where the famous evolutionist first realised the world is a lot older than the bible says. Opposite you’ll find an old silver mine first operated by the Jesuits. Essential ingredient – binoculars to spy the condor.

Cipolletti Dam

Cipolletti dam is where it all began. The lush avenues, vineyards and plazas of Mendoza would not have been possible but for an Italian engineer called Cesar Cipolletti harnessing the melted snow of the Andes into one pool at the end of the 19th century. The dam now has an adjacent camp site that allows day trippers to sit in its pretty grounds for a couple of pesos each. This grassy area provides an idyllic spot to crack open that Malbec whilst watching the kamikaze locals take full advantage of the fast flowing canals to cool off in the summer. The dam is located 30 minutes south in Lujan de Cuyo. Essential ingredient – a life jacket if you want to brave the powerful whirlpools.

Uco Valley

This long narrow valley is tucked up against the mountains with some of Mendoza’s most stunning views. Vineyards compete with pear orchards and the occasional field of garlic as the towering icecapped Andes add drama in the background. Some of Mendoza’s most architecturally stunning wineries are located here, as well as its most historical apple tree (known as Manzano Histórico) where San Martin whipped up the troops before invading Chile. Here you’ll find a leafy park with a lavish monument celebrating the great man and the area is popular with day visitors on Sundays. For something a little wilder, go further into the mountains to the little visited Valle de Carreras, a furze covered highland and the only place in Mendoza where you can pick potatoes. Essential ingredient - a potato peeler.

T-bone Junction

UCO VALLEY

Central highway reservations, busy motorway laybys, concrete bridges, dusty roadside culverts; take a spin on a sunny Sunday afternoon in Mendoza and you’ll notice the locals will stop for a picnic virtually anywhere, usually the next patch of grass on the highway. Argentines love the great outdoors and don’t need to go too far before they stop and unpack the deck chairs, picnic tables and portable barbecues. Meat is the main item on the menu, all cooked over burning twigs with a local desert shrub called jarrilla added for an extra smouldering flavor. Essential ingredient – a football, but try not to kick it into the fast lane.

Whistle in the Wind

El Zonda It sounds like one of the biblical plagues but Mendoza’s Zonda wind is very common. A change of pressure in the Andes causes a hot wind (of sometimes up to 120 km/ hr and 48 degrees) to tear its way down the mountainside and through the city, bringing a bright orange dust with it and leaving sore throats and throbbing headaches amongst the inhabitants behind. A proper zonda could well spoil your cucumber sandwiches and picnic rug but the more common zondas (which bring only a little breeze and create a balmy warmth) could actually be favourable. Zondas occur mostly during periods of unstable temperatures (spring and autumn) so keep your eye on weather warnings beforehand. Essential ingredient – aspirin.

Hardball If you think rain is a picnic’s worst enemy, think again. Mendoza’s infamous hailstones are a threat not just to an outdoor lunch but people´s lives and livelihoods. Vicious icey stones the size of golfballs sweep through the region around Christmas time, leaving a path of destruction – the province loses 10% of its grapes to hail every year and people often die in flooding and the chaotic aftermath. Keeping an eye on the weather forecast can usually help you avert hailstones raining on your parade though the sight of a violent downpour shredding everything in its path is something to behold and not easily forgotten. Essential ingredient – special anti-hale blankets to pull over you car and save it from getting dented.

With an unbelievable 350 sunny days a year, Mendoza has to have its share of some meotorological misfortune somewhere. The one thing that might put a bit of a damper on your picnic is one Mendoza’s weird weather phenomenons, be it either the hot zonda wind or hail stones the size of your head:

Vineyard Picnics Some of Mendoza’s wineries offer their own picnics for visitors. Here is our pick of the picnics:

DEcero

Sottano

Pretty Lujan winery Sottano offers delightful picnic spreads while sitting on the lawn by the vines. Chequered picnic blankets, leather pillows and a hamper of goodies make for a good afternoon at this family-run boutique vineyard. Using regional food, chef Nicolas Bedorrou creates some rustic homemade dishes with Mediterranean appeal: juicy sun-dried tomato and goat´s cheese salad, grilled vegetable paninis, chicken wraps, parma ham with homemade bread and earthy olive oil and a typical chocotorta are all washed down well with a bottle of Sottano´s Malbec Rose or another bottle of your choice. The vineyard also offers smoked meat, cheese, nuts and homemade bread platters for picnics or more hearty lunches and tasting events in its restaurant. Contact Diego Marcos Salguero on (261) 405 8335 or 261 15 353 5506, turismo@bodegasottano.com, www.bodegasottano.com

Decero

Decero start up their picnic season in the middle of October when they will be opening their two and a half hectare gardens up to alfresco diners who can sit with their light lunches admiring the vines and mountains while enjoying some of Decero’s lovely red wines. (261) 524 4747, www.decero.com

Terrazas de Los Andes

Terrazas de los Andes, in Lujan de Cuyo, cater for small picnic groups in their gardens. Here you can sit down to a picnic of fresh meat and vegetable focaccia sandwiches, picking platters, salad and (the argentine staple) empanadas. All this comes with a bottle of Reserva Malbec and mini champagne for dessert. Terrazas is the fine wine arm of Chandon and located in a splendid historical winery with a stunning tasting area and barrel room. Whilst there, make sure you try the Cheval des Andes blend - a joint venture with the famous French winery Cheval Blanc. (261) 488 0058, www.terrazasdelosandes.com

Ruca Malen

One of the original wineries to do set lunches with wine pairings, Ruca Malen has now spilled out of its glass encased restaurant and onto the lovely lawn for luxury picnics surrounded by vines and mountains. New York trained chef Lucas Bustos is a pioneer in Mendoza gourmet cooking with creative dishes designed around the winery’s elegant wines. (261) 562 8357, www.bodegarucamalen.com BYO Picnic Sottano For a real treat while picnicing at Sottano, go for the bodega’s top wine: Judas, so named because it was a special line of Malbec made especially for the three brothers who own the vineyard. However, one of the brothers secretly allowed some wine writers to try it and the other two siblings only found out about the betrayal when rave reviews appeared in the international press!

Boutique bodega Carinae in Maipu has picnic tables in their garden which are free for visitors use. You may have to bring your own sandwiches but the bodega will happily help you pick a wine to match – indulge yourself and try the Carinae Prestige, a 92-point wine that is turning heads and setting tongues wagging. (261) 524 1629, carinae@carinaevinos.com

Picnic Perfect For some inspiration for your own picnics, visit www.wine-republic.com for recipies created specially by some of Mendoza’s top chefs.

Picnic Wishlist Kaiken, Malbec Rosé

Alta Vista Premium, Sparkling Chardonnay

A bright, golden sparkling Chardonnay with elegant, tickling bubbles and hints of peach and pineapple that makes this a perfect picnic partner. $43 AR

Salentein Reserva, Pinot Noir, 2008

A velvety, full Pinot Noir with intense and ripe strawberries and cherries and a lingering finish. Perfect if you want something a bit fuller on your picnic spread. $55 AR

A cherry coloured rosé which has an alluring strawberry nose. Its delicate and fresh flavours show you the softer side of Malbec. $45 AR

Serrera, Torrontés 2010

Serrera’s fresh white wine has come up with all the delicate floral and citrus characteristics that we like best. Best found at The Vines, Terra Viva and 1884. $45

Melipal, Malbec Rosé

A medium-bodied fruity rosé with lots of raspberry and strawberry and a yummy hint of watermelon. $43 AR

Tapiz, Sauvignon Blanc, 2009

A top scorer in our 2010 tasting. This light and herby white is a great picnic wine. Citrus aromas of grapefruit and white asparagus with a tropical finish. $39 AR

salentein

Winetecture Mendozaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wineries are offering more than just vino, but fine architecture too. Amanda Barnes takes a peek at the buildings.

Historical bodegas Due to a lack of wood and bricks in the region, traditional wineries (and indeed most buildings) in Mendoza were constructed with adobe â&#x20AC;&#x201C; mud mixed with straw â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and topped off with a cane roof, packed with more mud on top. Primitive as it may sound, this common building technique turned out to be beneficial for wineries as earth acts as a natural temperature regulator, keeping a constant, cooler atmosphere inside. Some wineries still choose to restore their buildings in this

fashion. Thankfully there are many renovated old wineries, many of which were multi-functional. At Kaiken in Lujan de Cuyo you can see how the bodega (built in 1930) was originally used for wine making, olive oil production and as an alcohol and cognac distillery as well as a metal basher and for the extraction of tartic acid. Nowadays Kaiken only makes trapiche

wines but its architecture offers a glimpse into this rich history and multi-purpose design. Other historical restorations worthy of attention are La Rural (for its museum of old technology), Alta Vista and Trapiche.

Moving underground In the 19th century, wineries in Mendoza started to build their first underground cellars to keep the wines cooler – provoking a dramatic rethink of architectural design. Although almost all wineries now have an underground cellar, one winery took it a step further. Dolium is completely underground. Italian-born engineer Mario Giadorou bought vines in Lujan as a retirement project. Despite knowing little about wine, he had an innovative vision for his vineyard from the outset. Taking its name from the Latin for amphora (a Greek wine vase stored in the ground), Dolium is buried six meters deep and designed with functionality and simplicity in mind. Using innovative ramps and slopes, it streamlines the process with minimal mechanization. All that remains above ground are the laboratories overseeing the whole process. Mario recruited the help of the young architecture firm Bormida & Yanzon (who would later become Argentina’s leading winery architects) to map out his vision and construct their first landmark winery. One Argentine winery made an unusual discovery whilst working its way underground: the remains of a dinosaur. Schroeder, in Neuqúen, came across the remains of a 12-metre long, 16 ton, 95 million-year-

schroeder´s dinosaur

dolium old Titanosaur – the largest of its species ever known. Paleontologists were then called in to supervise the fossil extraction and tourists can see a copy of the fossil in the cellar of the winery, which now produces a wine named Saurus. Unfortunately, the winery is a 16-hour drive south of Mendoza.

Showcase wineries In recent years, Uco Valley, 90 minute south of Mendoza city, has afforded space and resources to create some big, bold and unusual wineries. Argentine architects Eliana Bórmida and Mario Yanzón (B&Y) have changed the face of Mendoza’s bodegas with their functional, Brutalist designs: O. Fournier is other-wordly. Its futuristic shape excites archophiles but perhaps has limited appeal for those looking for something ´pretty´. The real beauty in this concrete, steel and glass construction lies in its functionality and innovation. The multi-tiered winery uses one of nature’s greatest assets to its benefit: gravity. A continuous flow system minimises the use of pumps. The top level is the reception and harvest area, the second level below is for fermentation and finally down to the cellar for ageing. A stunning restaurant overlooks a reflective lake and the breathtaking Andes and an atmospheric cellar-cum-art-gallery is

SEPTIMA 14

O FOURNIER

lit by a cross shaped roof light which is symbolic of the Southern Cross. O.Fournier is a fascinating winery which is architecturally sexy, in a star trek kind of way. If O. Fournier works in a vertical direction, Septima has been designed to work horizontally. Another B&Y brainchild, this Lujan winery is designed on a conveyer belt principle â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the grapes enter from one end and travel the length of the winery to exit as bottles of wine at the other. The production line is (as in Dolium) all on one level using ramps to enable easier flow. It is all above ground but temperature control comes from only southward facing windows (away from the sun) and the use of stone walls. Septima uses traditional pirca techniques (the same used in Machu Picchu). The large rocks from southern Mendoza (some imprinted with what looks

like fern fossils) create a design that keeps the inside a constant 15 degrees and blends in with the landscape. Atamisque in Tupungato is another B&Y-designed vineyard that uses stones in this way. And finally, Salentein, surely one of B&Yâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s greatest achievements. This Dutch owned winery in Valle de Uco has not only two bodegas, but also a restaurant, a posada, an art gallery, a sculpture garden and even a chapel. The visitor centre Killka is in the centre of the site and although it may look like an airport lounge from the outside, inside it feels as if you have stepped into a sculpture â&#x20AC;&#x201C; glass, stone, cement and open-air play with space and light and the restaurant has a glorious panorama of the mountains. (cont. p16)

Salentein

But the most interesting spaces are the bodega and the chapel at opposing ends. The minimalist chapel was intended to thank the Deity for the natural blessings of the land and is constructed of mud bricks to reflect this. On the outer wall there is a sculpture depicting the Last Supper and, of course, the miracle of Jesus turning water into wine. Although the chapel is used for church services, it is actually the bodega which feels perhaps more sacred. Dubbed the ‘wine cathedral’, the round, pillared cellar is beautifully atmospheric. A large compass resembles the Greek cross and is symbolic of the Jesuits who lived on the land centuries ago. As you walk into the barely lit tasting room with long marble tables you could be forgiven for thinking you were about to take communion. A wholly complete experience.

Architecturally fantastic wines This time we are talking about the architecture inside the bottle. Here are some of our recommended wines from the bodegas listed: Dolium Gran Reserva Malbec – A legend in the making, if not already. Voted Best South American Wine seven years in a row and still has great aging potential. Exemplary and outstanding malbec if you can get your hands on it. B Crux, O Fournier – Great value Temperanillo-based blend from the Spanish winery. Kaiken Ultra, Cabernet Sauvignon – A big, yet elegant Cabernet bursting with blackcurrant and cherry. Salentein, Pinot Noir – Salentein is doing probably the best Pinot in Mendoza, get the Primus if you can otherwise go for the Reserva. Dolium Petit Reserva Sauvignon Blanc – Retains the fresh citrus and herbs of a Sauvignon but the oak gives it creamy undertones and depth.

The Winery Guide The Best Places to Visit

Overall Winery Experience

Lodging

Restaurant

Driving Time from Mendoza City

min

Chandon

LUJAN DE CUYO Terrazas de los Andes

Dominio del Plata 30 min

The fine wine sister of Chandon Argentina is a beautifully restored bodega with well-appointed tasting room. Try the famous Cheval de los Andes. Thames and Cochamaba, Perdriel. Tel. 488 0704/5 www.terrazasdelosandes.com

Tapiz

40 min

Great wine lodge Club Tapiz, high-end restaurant Terruño and an instructive wine tour that includes an invigorating horse and carriage ride and a tank, barrel and bottle tasting. Ruta Provincial 15, Km 32, Agrelo. Tel. 490 0202. www.tapiz.com

Norton

30 min

Old-style cellars contrast with a high-tech production line. Tank and barrel tastings are conducted at this huge facility and the jug fillings on Thursday mornings are popular with the locals. R.P. 15, Km 23.5, Perdriel. Tel. 490 9700. www.norton.com.ar

Renacer

30 min

This Chilean-owned winery creates the label Punto Final, one of Mendoza’s best value Malbecs. Small, modern operation with tour that includes a hands-on lesson in blending. Brandsen 1863. Tel. 261-524-4416/17. www.bodegarenacer.com.ar

Ruca Malen

40 min

Argentina´s most famous female winemaker Susana Balbo is creating some rich and complex wines in the heart of Agrelo. Try their Crios and Ben Marco. Cochabamba 7801 Agrelo. Tel. (+54) 261 498 9200 www.dominiodelplata.com.ar

Pulenta Estate

40 min

Cool minimalist design and rich complex wines make this a winery with finesse and style. Convenient to visit on the way to Valle de Uco. Ruta 86, Km 6.5. Tel. 420 0800. www.pulentaestate.com

Luigi Bosca

15 min

Old, family owned operation with lots of heritage, handsome cellars and a tasting room. Large selection of wines from low-end to highend blends. San Martin 2044, Mayor Drummond. Tel. 498 1974. www.luigibosca.com.ar

Lagarde

15 min

Owner of the oldest white wine in South America. Try the handcrafted sparkling wine made from 100 year old vines; best enjoyed in one of their many courtyards. Ave. San Martin 1745, Luján de Cuyo. Tel. 498 0011 Ext. 27. www.lagarde.com.ar

30 min

Excellent food, great guiding and first-class wines. The pairings over lunch make for an unforgettable culinary experience. Generous tastings and gorgeous views of the vineyards and mountains. Ruta Nacional 7, Km 1059, Agrelo, Lújan de Cuyo. Tel. 562 8357. www.bodegarucamalen.com

KAIKEN

Kaiken

CHANDON 18

20 min

The original foreign investor, French-owned Chandon has been making great sparkling wines in Mendoza since the 1960s. RP 15, Km 29, Agrelo. Tel. 490 9968. www.bodegaschandon.com.ar

20 min

This rustic 80 year-old winery houses a new venture by the prestigious Chilean winery Montes. There is nothing rustic about the wines however. They are big and powerful and destined to be famous. Here you can enjoy a terrific view, dynamic tours and a friendly guiding environment. Roque Saenz Peña 5516, Las Compuertas, Vistalba, Luján de Cuyo. lchristensen@kaikenwines.com. Tel: 524 3160 www.kaikenwines.com

Catena Zapata

30 min

Showcase winery designed like a Mayan temple overlooking vineyards and the Andes Mountains. Rich, complex wines. Cobos s/n. Tel. 413 1100. www.catenawines.com

Melipal

10 min

Great Malbec and gourmet lunches make Melipal one of the most exclusive wineries to visit. Ruta 7 km 1056, Agrelo. Tel. 524 8040. www.bodegamelipal.com.ar

Decero

40 min FABRE MONTAMAYOU Attractive, modern facility with spectacular views of the mountains from the cozy tasting room. Bajo las Cumbres 9003, Agrelo. Tel. 524 4748. www.decero.com

Clos de Chacras

40 min

Charming boutique operation. A five minute walk from Chacras plaza. Great Merlot and excellent lunches. Monte Libano s/n, Chacras de Coria. Tel. 496 1285. www.closdechacras.com.ar

Sottano

30 min

This small, modern winery located in Agrelo is owned by three generations of winemakers. Big, concentrated reds are their speciality, including a top wine with the name Judas which you can taste whilst viewing vineyards and snowcapped mountains. Ruta 7 y Costa Flores S/N. Perdriel, Luján de Cuyo, Tel 153535506 www.bodegasottano.com

ACHAVAL FERRER

Achaval Ferrer

Alta Vista

15 min

Mendoza’s most famous garagista. Carmelo Patti himself is often there to show you around (in Spanish). Try his famous Cabernet Sauvignon from the barrel. San Martin 2614. Tel 498 1379.

Vistalba

Mendel

20 min

Belasco de Baquedano

30 min

Cavas de Cano

Micro-winery set in a beautiful, colonial building. Lunch is a spectacular buffet with every type of delicacy. Av. San Martin 2488, Luján de Cuyo. Tel 498 7283. www.cavadecano.com

20 min

Rich history and richer wines. Lovely old bodega with lots of character. Mendoza’s best Cabernet Franc. Ruta 60. Cruz de Piedra. Tel. 496 0794 www.bodegabenegas.com

VALLE DE UCO 90 min

Designed like a temple to wine, this ultra-concept winery includes a modern art gallery, lodge, and chapel set high in the Andean valley. R.P 89 s/n, Tunuyan. Tel. 0-262-242-9500. www.killkasalentein.com

O. Fournier 20 min

20 min

A lovely winery in a pastoral setting. It offers one of Mendoza’s most up close and personal tours with the owners themselves offering up tank and barrel tastings. San Martin 4871. Tel. 496-0900. www.haciendadelplata.com.ar

Salentein

Gleaming modern facility with fascinating aroma room and restaurant with Andean view. Cobos 8260. Tel. 153 023 491 www.belascomalbec.com

30 min

An old style winery ran by one of Argentina’s most famous winemaker dynasties - the De La Motta family. Terrada 1863, Mayor Drummond. Tel. 524-1621. www.mendel.com.ar

Benegas Lynch

Tasting room where one entire wall is a subterranean cross section of the actual vineyard clay, roots and rocks. Houses French restaurant La Bourgogne. Roque Saenz Peña 3135, Vistalba, Luján de Cuyo. Tel. 498 9400. www.carlospulentawines.com

15 min

Masterful mix of modern and traditional. Tasting includes distinctive Torrontes or single vineyard Malbecs. Álzaga 3972, Chacras de Coria, Luján de Cuyo. Tel 496 4684. www.altavistawines.com

Hacienda del Plata Carmelo Patti

30 min

Makes the highest scoring Argentine wine. Modern boutique close to Mendoza riverbed. Big concentrated wines. Calle Cobos 2601; Perdriel, Luján de Cuyo. Tel. 488 1131. www.achaval-ferrer.com

100 min

Most architecturally innovative winery with rich, concentrated wines. Excellent lunches in the modernist visitor center. Their guides are always well-informed and enthusiastic. Los Indios s/n, La Consulta, San Carlos. Tel. 02622/ 451 088. www.ofournier.com CATENA ZAPATA 19

Lurton

100 min

Tempus Alba

30 min

The wines are faultless and the location stunning. A French operation producing excellent Torrontes and Malbec. Ruta 94 km 21, Vista Flores, Tunuyán. Tel. 441 1134. www.bodegalurton.com

A fine modern winery set in the rural lanes of southern Maipu. The rooftop terrace ovelooks the vineyard. Great Pleno label. Perito Moreno 572, Maipu. Tel. 481 3501. www.tempusalba.com

La Azul

Familia Zuccardi

90 min

Simple, small production winery with not so simple Malbecs and Merlots. R.P 89 s/n. Agua Amarga. Tupungato. Tel. 422 175 www.bodegalaazul.com.ar

Finca La Celia

90 min

One of the valley’s oldest wineries. They conduct excellent tours and tastings. Av. De Circunvalacion s/n, Eugenio Bustos, San Carlos. Tel 451 010 www.fincalacelia.com.ar

Clos de los Siete

90 min

Visit three wineries in one and try rich, complex wines surrounded by state-of-the-art architecture and wine-making technology. Calle Clodomiro Silva s/n. Tel. 02622/ 422 054. www.clos7.com.ar

Benvenuto de la Serna

90 min

Charming, family-run operation making a very decent Sangiovese under the Mil Piedras label. Carril Los Sauces s/n, VistaFlores, Tunuyan. Tel. 420 0782 www.benvenutodelaserna.com

Altus

90 min

A red barn-like winery which faces a lovely adobe-style restaurant doing excellent lunches. Las Vencedoras, Tupungato. Tel. 155 080 261 www.altusdetupungato.com.ar

Andeluna

Rutini / La Rural

90 min

Lopez

90 min

Jean Bousquet

20 min

Popular, old-style winery with handsome tasting room close to Maipu plaza. Ozamis 375, Gral Gutiérrez. Tel. 481 1091 www.bodegaslopez.com.ar

Flichman

40 min

Steeped in history and tradition. Charming, pink-hued, colonial-style bodega, set in the leafy vineyards of southern Maipu. Recommended is the top blend Dedicado. Munives 800, Barrancas, Maipú. Tel. (0261) 497 2039 www.flichman.com

30 min

Officially the oldest winery in Mendoza and still run by Argentine hands. Their charming and rustic restaurant looks onto the vineyard, just two steps away. Urquiza 8136 - Russell. Tel 261 5878900 www.familiaditommaso.com

Carinae A down-to-earth, family-run affair with good wholesome Malbecs. España 1094, La Consulta, San Carlos. 02622 / 470 0379. www.aconquija.com

20 min

Well-stocked museum with invaluable antiques such as cowhide wine presses and buckets. Giant oak tanks stand in large, cavernous halls whilst side rooms hold Victorian era pumps and bottle corkers. Montecaseros 2625, Coquimbito, Maipu. Tel. (0261) 497 2013 ext.125 www.bodegalarural.com.ar

Familia Di Tommasso

The old-world style tasting room looks upon dramatic views of vineyards against mountains. Have a glass of the cabernet, their best wine. Ruta Provincial 89, Km 11, Gualtallary, Tupungato. Tel. 429 9299 ext 113 www.andeluna.com

Aconquija

30 min

A professional, far-sighted operation. The guides are always enthusiastic, knowledgable and eager to please. Attractive restaurant amidst the vines, famous for its asado-style lunches and generous wine pourings. Ruta Provincial 33, Km 7.5, Maipu. Tel. (0261) 441 0000. www.familiazuccardi.com

30 min

Small, charming, French-owned winery offering personal tours and well-honed wines. Surrounded by vineyards and olive trees. Videla Arande 2899, Cruz de Piedra, Maipú. Tel. 499 0470 www.carinaevinos.com

80 min

Modern, French winery making rich, organic malbecs. Ruta 89 S/N Km 7, Tupungato. Tel. 261 155 274 048 www.jeanbousquet.com

MAIPU Trapiche

30 min

Argentina’s biggest winery is a mix of old and new, traditional and industrial. Mitre s/n. Coquimbito. Tel. 520 7666 www.trapiche.com.ar 20

CARINAE

Casa de Fader

Jenny Eagle gives her post-impression of Museo de Bellas Artes

“ A fascinating history belonging to a rich Argentine family in the 19th century” More than just a collection of wonderful artwork, the Museo de Ballas Artes has a fascinating history belonging to a rich Argentine family in the 19th Century. Emiliano Guinazu and his wife, Narciza Araujo bought, what was then, a derelict mansion, surrounded by 95 hectares of vineyards and fruit trees, in the province of Lujan de Cuyo in 1889. On the outside, the summer house is not particularly aesthetically pleasing, but the gardens are beautiful with old trees, roses, sculptures and cascading vines. At the time, the building was empty and in need of repair so the family set about reconstructing the house and added a small swimming pool inside one of the rooms. They hired an artist to paint two murals inside the hallway and in the room that housed the indoor pool. That artist was Fernando Fader, the inspiration for the museum. “They hired an artist to paint two murals inside the hallway:” Originally born in France, Fader is considered Argentine because his family relocated to Mendoza in 1884 when he was three. After studying art in Germany and Holland, Fader returned to Mendoza in 1905. His father, Carlos Fader was a German naval engineer and his mother was the French viscountess Celia de Bonneval. Carlos was an important power industrialist in Mendoza because his company installed the first gas pipeline and pipeline to the city. Thanks to the 22

social status of the two families at the time, Guiñazú met Fernando and invited him to work for him. It was whilst painting the walls of this retreat between 1906 and 1915 that Fernando fell in love with Guiñazú’s daughter, Adela, and the couple married with a lavish garden party in the grounds of the house. Unfortunately, when Fader’s own father passed away in 1905 he was left with the burden of settling all the company debts which he could not afford to do and so he and his family claimed bankruptcy. “It was whilst painting the walls that Fernando fell in love with Guiñazú’s daughter, Adela” Fader was known as a Post-impressionist painter at a time when local critics were still partial to Impressionism. In 1906 at Costa Salon in Buenos Aires Fader finally got a break. Here his work was exhibited for the first time and received massive success. Following his good fortune, he and his family moved to Buenos Aires and Fader spent the next ten years painting, drawing and touring art galleries through Spain and Germany. However in 1916, at the age of 33, Fader was diagnosed with tuberculosis and his whirlwind life came to a halt. To aid his heath the Faders moved to Ischilín in Cordoba for a drier climate. “His whirlwind life came to a halt ” During this time, his work centred on more Impressionistic paintings, many of which romantically portrayed farm life; but by 1921 his condition deteriorated with chronic asthma. On Fader’s 50th birthday, the Buenos Aires community of art galleries organized a 1932 retrospective of 119

INSIDE FADER

works in his honor but he was too ill to attend.Two years later Fader died in Cordoba in 1935. He had three children with Adela, two boys, Raul and Caesar, and a daughter, Adelita. After Guinazuâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s death in 1945, his widow donated the Mendoza building to the local government who turned it into a Fine Arts Museum and it opened to the public in 1951. The museum houses four collections belonging to foreign artists, Argentine painters, local artists and the Fernando Fader Collection. It exhibits 1,100 works of local and national authors. Works created by Fader include 43 paintings and drawings, seven murals and two sculptures.

Museum Information The museum is open Tuesday to Friday 9am -6.30pm and Saturday to Sunday from 3pm - 7.30pm. The easiest way to get to Lujan de Cuyo by bus is to catch the Number 1/19 from Avenue Rioja near Garibaldi. The journey takes about 25 minutes. For more information visit www.cultura.mendoza.gov.ar or call (261) 496 0224.

bars inside Mendoza City

The list below has some great bars but if you’re looking to browse, head to Aristides Villanueva Avenue, the nightlife strip of Mendoza. It’s a continuation of Ave. Colon and is simply referred to as Aristides by the locals. Pubs, bars, restaurants and shops cram together from Belgrano to San Martin Park to provide you with ample bar options. Get your shut-eye before a night out because the clubs don’t even get started until 2am.

BELIEVE IRISH PUB

One of the few bars in Mendoza with a bar counter and high stools to prop yourself up on. Kelly, the English part-owner/pub-mascot is almost always there to share a chat and a smile with the crowd; which is most likely a factor in its notable popularity among expats and travelers. On the menu is a great collection of draught beers, bottled beers (try the Warsteiner) and surprisingly decent pub grub. TV screens hang in every corner airing hit music-video montages or football games. Monday night is International night and for their packed events DJ’s rock the house. Colon and España 241. Tel. 261-4295567. www.believeirishpub.com.ar

THE VINES OF MENDOZA

As the first and only true tasting room in South America, The Vines of Mendoza offers the broadest selection of premium boutique wines from Argentina. Compare the wine notes with one of their tasting flights or chose a glass from the impressive list of limited production wines. Chatting with their learned bartenders and sipping fabulous flavours on the patio under a canopy of vines makes for a truly enjoyable afternoon. Join their Acequia Wine Club if you wish to regularly receive these exclusive Argentine wines. Espejo 567, Tel. 0261 438-1031. Monday-Saturday, 15:00pm–22:00pm www.vinesofmendoza.com

Por Aca

Noisy and young but always fun. Por Aca is a big old house converted into numerous little 26

beer drinking hideaways. Watch you don’t get usurped by the constant gangs of pizza-eating birthday partiers. Conversation will involve shouting and cupping one ear but this is more than compensated by the good-looking clientele. Aristides Villanueva 557. Tel. 261-420-0346

Antares

This Argentine brewery originated in Mar de Plata from three friends sharing one great idea, “to rescue the true brewing tradition.” They’ve fathered some great artesanal brews and in a country as wine-crazy as Argentina, going the beer route was a gutsy move. They managed to pull it off (the tap, that is) and since 1998 successfully launched ten locations around Argentina. On the busy street of Arístides you’ll find the Mendoza location. It’s your classic upscale beer bar, heavy on the wood, brass and warm lighting. Their beers, Honey, Cream, Barely and Kolsh, sound more like swimsuit models than drink-list items and perhaps justly so, for these frothy sirens are blissfully designed and certainly something to drool over. Arístides Villanueva 153 Tel. 261-4238327. Everyday from 19:00pm-close. Happy Hour everyday from 19:00pm-20:00pm. www.cervezaantares.com

La Reserva Pub

This is the best disco bar in the city center and with a healthy mix of transsexuals, shemales, gays, strays and straights, a dancefloor wallflower will stay very entertained. The drag shows and cabaret acts are flamboyant and outrageous and would rival any 1920s Berlin revue. MC Tranny La Turca is a Mendoza legend and the dance shows are often peppered with witty comedy sketches. Despite the alternative entertainment the bar attracts a mixed crowd who are known to jump on stage and join in the fun. Go late. Rivadavia 32, Tel. 261- 420-3531

Queen

Mendoza may appear as a conservative buttoned down city but it has a thriving alternative scene and a vibrant gay nightlife. Queen is a pioneering

club showcasing the city’s most colourful and eccentric night owls. This medium-sized club is located several blocks south of the bus terminal and is open Fridays and Saturdays, the second night attracting a mixed crowd who come for fantastic drag shows followed by dance music and Latino beats. 25 de Mayo 318, Dorrego Tel. 261- 431-5846. www.queenmendoza.com

outside city center carilo nightclub and restaurant

The newly opened restaurant is the latest extension to one of Mendoza’s best superclubs Carilo in El Challao. Now you can eat, drink and dance under several terraces, roofs and stars in one location. The restaurant puts together alfresco dining and cabaret with a plasma screen showing various divas in concert. Energetic waiters manage the tiered seating and deliver light meat, fish and vegetarian dishes. Should you forget that the night is still young, vodka, Speed energy drink and Fernet are on hand in addition to a good selection of wine. The nightclub brings in guest DJs on Fridays to play styles from electronica to trance to techno. Saturdays groove to a different beat with retro hits from the 70s and 80s but the club’s four dance floors aren’t just there for looks. Get out there and shake a little! Las Estaciones S/N El Challao Tel. 261- 444-6835

Iskra

One of the bigger night clubs close to the city center. It has a huge dance floor in the biggest of its three rooms and two bars. The crowd ranges from about eighteen to late twenties, weighted one way or the other depending on the night. The music is a mix of rock and reggaeton with the occasional cuarteto song. The cover is $20 pesos and ladies get in free. Don’t stress over directions as most taxi drivers are well acquainted with the location. Av. San Martin 905. Tel. 26115-453-1038. www.iskradiscopub.com.ar

The Right Boots

Aconcagua Provincial Park is now officially open for the season.

Roxana Bordignon and Silvia López give some tips on getting to the summit.

With an altitude of 6.959 metres above sea level, Aconcagua Peak, 190 km west of Mendoza, is a common attraction for outdoors enthusiasts. Along with the awesome scenery and daring expeditions, there’s a whole new world of curiosities you don’t hear about in the brochures. Forget about facilities such as restrooms on Aconcagua. It’s not that you won’t be able to use a toilet: only that you will be carrying it along with you. Yes, you will be carrying your own private toilet known as a “cacatube”. At the beginning of the expedition, you are given a tube which you hang on your rucksack to dispose of your waste (“caca” in Spanish). Funny? Yes, but extremely useful. And don’t forget the extra advantage of using the “cacatube”: you become an eco-warrior. “It’s not that you won’t be able to use a toilet - only that you will be carrying it along with you”

foot. The misunderstanding awarded him everlasting recognition among the climbing community. Details for climbers and hikers: The season for climbing Aconcagua is upon us (November to March) so if you are up for the challenge then there are a few things you need to start getting sorted out. First of all a permit is required (www.aconcagua. mendoza.gov.ar, 261 425 8751), for either 3, 7 or 20 days. If you want to climb the summit then the 20 day permit is required, it costs $3000 for foreigners and $720 pesos for locals in high season - this includes your emergency services insurance. The list of equipment required is endless and temperatures towards the summit can get down to -30C so be prepared. If you are heading for the top it is advisable to take a guided tour, unless you are a highly experienced climber.

Also, if you believe you’ve discovered a new English dialect in the southern hemisphere, you’re wrong. It’s just an Argentine park ranger trying his best to communicate with you in his badly-remembered elementary school English. Maybe he never heard of phonetics in his whole life, so be polite and don’t freak out in the titanic effort of understanding him. Be patient, especially if the ranger is giving you specific instructions.

If you misunderstand him, you could end up with, at worst, a broken bone, or at best, a funny anecdote, like that of a certain climber who, after hiking 19 hours and reaching the summit, realised he was wearing his boots incorrectly. He had the right boot in his left foot and the left boot in his right 28

“A misunderstanding that awarded him everlasting recognition in the climbing community”

dining out mendoza city

now larger and brighter than it was when it started but the food is still as good as ever. The pasta is the best thing here, maintaining original recipes from over 60 years ago; we recommend the huge stuffed ravioli. In short, its simple, hearty Italian fayre that’s bound to make you to cry ‘Mamma Mia!’ Patricias Mendocinas 1550. (261) 423 0751. www.lamarchigiana.com.ar Avg. meal cost: $70 pesos

Anna Bistro

For a romantic evening outdoors Anna Bistro is unsurpassable. Carved wood tables adorned with candles are nestled between exotic flowering plants and hanging vines. Couple this with soft lighting and tranquil jazz, and any mundane evening is transformed into a memorable event. Gazing at their menu of delectable dishes, from ceviche and cesto de portobello (pastry piled with mushrooms and walnuts), to melt-in-your-mouth salmon al limon and trout, produces an unavoidable bout of indecisiveness. The Anna Bistro staff swear by the T-Bone steak and local Malbec combo. End the feast with a Blackberry Cheesecake and glass of bubbly on the sunken sofas for a quick trip to nirvana. Av. Juan B. Justo 161 Tel: (261) 425 1818. Everyday 12pm - 1am. Avg. meal cost: $65 pesos

grill Q Vinos olivas y sabores

accompanied by an array of, sometimes unusual, Argentine delicacies: light and fluffy rabbit pate, juicy sundried tomatoes, marinated hare, delicious carpaccio of carpincho (the world’s largest rodent) and, of course, empanadas. Main meals include a great version of ‘carne a la masa’ with large, tender chunks of slow-cooked beef swimming in juice and topped with a crispy pastry. Order wine by the glass or bottle, or join them for one of their nightly wine tastings at 7pm. If you fall in love with anything you eat or drink - you can buy it at the deli, vinoteca or they can keep you in supply by shipping the wine home for you. Aristides Villanueva 451. Tel: (261) 420 2020, www.vinosolivasysabores. com, Tues – Sun, 11am till late. Avg. meal cost $65.

La Marchigiana ANNA BISTRO

Vinos, Olivas y Sabores

Wine, olives and flavours: VOS’s name pretty much sums itself up. This vinoteca-cumrestaurant is ideal for wine drinking with a tasty bite on the side. The intimitely lit bar is tastefully decorated with brocade wallpaper, mismatched chairs and a quirky wine glass chandelier. The select menu features traditional Argentine dishes served with finesse. A picada of assorted flavoured cheeses is 30

As the first Italian restaurant in Mendoza, La Marchigiana has plenty of history and traditional recipes to whet any nonna’s appetite. Maria Teresa Corradini de Barbera moved to Argentina with her parents as a teenager from war torn La Marche, Italy, in 1948 in the search for peace. They didn’t find peace, but they did find the Argentines had a penchant for Italian food. The family restaurant started off with only six hearty Italian dishes but has grown into a popular local fixture. Check out the Brad Pitt photo for celebrity credentials. The restaurant is

Located in the elegant Park Hyatt Mendoza, Grill Q serves up traditional regional cuisine at a Five-Star level. Wood floors and cowhides combine with expansive windows and sky-lights to create a welcoming, modern atmosphere. The restaurant aims to provide visitors with an authentic Argentinian dining experience. Key features, include the original artworks of Mendocina painter, Laura Rudman, and a “parilla a la vista” grill that allows patrons to view the chef at work. They´re famous for their grilled meats and vast selection of regional wines. Other exceptional options include traditional favorites such as locro, a classic stew that hails from Argentina´s “Independence Days.” Personally, I would suggest coming with a friend and ordering the “Parilla for two” with a pairing of Trumpeter Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2008. Conclude your meal savoring a quince and cheese terrine, this establishment´s gourmet take on a unique regional desert. Chile 1124. Tel. (261) 441 1225. Wed Sat 12:30pm - 3:30pm, 8:30pm - 12am Sunday 12.30pm - 3.30pm. Executive Lunches are offered Wed - Fri and include your choice of main course, glass of wine, and your choice of a desert or starter, $70. Sunday brunch for $90. Avg. meal cost: $100 pesos.

La Aldea

Best friends Gustavo and Charlie have realized their dream of opening a restaurant together with this hip eatery on Aristides

Villanueva.They pride themselves on being the only restaurant on Aristides Avenue with traditional Argentine bbq asado. Although this rustic style restaurant specializes in beef, its menu also includes salads, sandwiches,pizzas and a unique selection of papas fritas (French fries). Everything is freshly cooked so prepare to have a bit of patience. There is a good wine list and outdoor seating on the lively sidewalk. The lounge in the back is filled with antique furniture and perfect for chatting over a drink. The plates are big, the wait staff is friendly, and the location is central to the best nightlife. *Look for their coupon inside the magazine! Aristides Villanueva 495. Tel: (261) 425 0420. Everyday, 11am - 3am. Avg. meal cost: $45 pesos

lemon. A decent wine list and some satisfying desserts complete the gastronomy experience but the key to Patrona is the cosy way that they really make you feel at home. Mi casa es Patrona casa! 9 de Julio 656. Tel: (261) 429 1057. Mon to Sat: 12.30pm - 3.30pm and 8.30pm - close. Avg. meal cost: $45 pesos

Patrona

This homely Mendocino restaurant has a casual, rustic charm about it. A colourful hub of activity on a quiet street, Patrona attracts a crowd full of locals every night of the week who come for the honest, traditional Argentine food and friendly and warm atmosphere. Four friends opened the restaurant a couple years ago as a place for people to enjoy the true spirit of Mendoza, beautiful artwork and the region’s typical cuisine with a few international elaborations. Classic dishes like the hearty empanadas and sizzling asado are worthy and popular fare but the real star here is Patrona’s warm, open sandwiches. We recommend the artichoke hearts and goats cheese; roasted vegetables with white wine and honey; or the more traditional pick of rich glands cooked in

Patrona

praga

Praga

If you’re after mariscos (shrimp) Praga is undoubtedly the best restaurant in town, specializing in creative seafood dishes such as sea urchin, Spanish octopus and shrimp chop suey. Each item is primed to be partnered with a vino from their spectacular wine list, the bottles of which are stored in an air-conditioned side room, aptly named, “Farmacia.” No wonder it´s a popular hangout for many of Mendoza’s prominent winemakers. The restaurant opens up to a scenic plaza lending Praga the romantic charge of a Parisian tryst. Inside is an atmospheric courtyard framed in wood timber. The delightful, Boterostyle paintings that hang on the pale yellow walls are the original works of the owner’s wife, Lucía Arra, and are available for purchase. Desserts of crème brulée and chocolate crepes with orange will have you swimming in Aphrodite-Poseidon bliss. Leonidas Aguirre 413. Tel: (261) 425 9585. pragamarisqueria.com.ar. Mon - Sat, 8pm - 1.30am. Avg. meal cost: $80 pesos

outside city center Terruño-Club Tapiz Resort

Tucked away among the sprawling Maipu vineyards lies Club Tapiz Resort and its lovely restaurant Terruño. This handsome eatery boasts an elegant interior, excellent service and a wine list that is sure to please even the most finicky of wine snobs. Their chef compiles a tantalising menu that includes top notch lomo steaks, a rotating range of salads and a savory ginger/honey chicken dish that is second to none. If you like what you see and taste, book a room in one of their seven Renaissance-style villas. Don’t forget to call ahead for dinner reservations! Ruta 60 s/n 5517 Maipú. Tel: (261) 496 0131. tapiz.com. Lunch, everyday, 12pm 3pm. Dinner, Sun - Thurs, 8pm-11pm, Fri & Sat until 12am. Avg. meal cost: $130 pesos

Casa de Campo

For rustic charm and traditional dishes visit Casa de Campo; A 15-minute taxi ride from Mendoza city center. Think welcoming casa with wooden beams, intimate tables and a small but lively verandah. Locals flock for the mouthwatering Argentine fare. Appetizers come in a taster’s collection of home-made goodies, from bread, prosciuttio and olive oil to sausage, pickled eggplant, cheeses and olives. Save some room for their clay oven specialties of succulent rabbit and suckling pig. “Grandma´s Menu,” the dish of the day, is made from inseason, locally grown produce. Complement this with a bottle from their extensive wine list and the result is a flavor combination of gourmet quality. A picturesque stroll to Rutini La Rural bodega, just ten minutes away, is a wonderful way to conclude the afternoon. Urquiza 1516, Coquimbito, Maipu. Tel: (261) 481 1605. casadecampomza.com. Everyday 12pm - 6pm. 31

Police, Fire Department and Emergency Medical Dial 911 Bus Terminal Tel: 431-3001 Av. de Acceso Este and Costanera. Bus Routes: Maipu, Linea 10 N° 171, 172, 173, Rioja street and Garibaldi. Chacras, N° 115 or 116, 25 de Mayo and Montevideo. Airport Tel: 448 0017 Accesso Norte s/n. El Plumerillo. Shipping Wine Ordinary post will not ship wine and a courier can cost at least $12 US a bottle. The most economical way is send it with your checked luggage in a special styrofoam wine box, available at most wine stores or at Trout & Wine, Espejo 266. Crime Be alert. Mendoza does have crime. Hold on to purses on the street and at restaurants. Avoid carrying valuables. Hostel lockers are not safe. Danger spots: bus terminal and internet cafes. Bike Tours in Maipu The most economical way to do a wine tour in Mendoza. Take bus (see above) to Urquiza street where you’ll find several bike rental companies. Some are notorious for dodgy bikes. Check and double check you get a good mount as a puncture can cause a mini nightmare. Head south, as north of Maipu is urban and not pretty. Recommended wineries: Rutini, Tempus Alba, Di Tommasso and certainly Carinae. When returning have a late lunch at the excellent Casa de Campo. Nightclubs In most nightclubs you have to queue twice for a drink which can get slightly exasperating as the night wears on. It is wise to buy several drink tickets at once for an easy, unimpeded flow of alcohol. Bathrooms are usually ill equiped so bring your own toilet paper. Many nightclubs are 200 light years away in Chacras which can cause problems getting home. Clubs rarely get going before 2am. Taxi Services Taxi Godoy Cruz Tel: 427-0055 - Radiomóvil Guaymallén Tel: 445-5855 - Mendocar Paraná 250 Tel: 423-6666 - La Veloz del Este Alem 439 Teléfono: 423-9090 Mendoza Expats Club An organization which enables Expatriates to meet each other. www.mendozaexpats.org. Hair Dresser English speaking and eccentric hairdresser Haisley from Delite will do your hairdo right. Aristides 429. (261) 429-9124

useful information