Modern Movement
Western Fashion Movements: 1795-1820 Directoire â—? Empire â—? Regency
On the Catwalk
Anna Sui
Antonio Marras
● Fall 2018 / Winter 2019 ●
Temperly
1
The Era
2
Events & Happenings
3
Core Palette
4 Materials 5
Silhouette & Styling
6
Must Have Items
7 Conclusion
●
CONTENTS ●
“By the end of the eighteenth century, a major shift in fashion was taking place that extended beyond changes in mere style to changes in philosophical and social ideals. This new, “natural” style allowed one’s inner self to transcend their clothes. Incorporated in this new “natural” style was the importance of ease and comfort of one’s dress. Not only was there a new emphasis on hygiene, but also clothing became much lighter and more able to be changed and washed frequently. Even upper class women began wearing cropped dresses as opposed to dresses with long trains or hoops that restricted them from leaving their homes. This new movement toward practicality of dress showed that dress became less a way to solely categorize between classes or genders; dress was meant to suit one’s personal daily routine. It was also during this time period that the fashion magazine and journal industry began to take off. They were most often monthly periodicals that allowed men and women to keep up with the ever-changing styles. The first sewing machine emerged in 1790. The introduction of the sew-
The Era
ing machine sped up garment production. Meanwhile, advanced spinning, weaving and cotton-printing techniques developed in the 18th century had already brought detailed, washable fabrics. These durable and affordable fabrics became popular among the majority population. These techniques were further developed by the introduction of machines. Before, accessories like embroidery and lace were manufactured on a small and limited scale by skilled craftsmen and sold in their own shops; in 1804, a machine for embroidering was constructed by John Duncan, and people started producing these essential accessories in factories and dispatching the products to shops throughout the country. These technical developments in clothing production allowed a greater variety of styles; rapid changes in fashion also became possible. Communication also improved in this era. New ideas about fashion were conveyed by little dolls dressed in the latest style, newspapers, and illustrated magazines; for example, La Belle Assemblée, founded by John Bell, was a British women’s magazine published from 1806 to 1837. It was best known for its fashion plates of Regency era styles, showing how women should dress and behave. When fashion became available for everybody, people were expected to dress according to the latest fashion. Dressmakers would show the fashion-plates to their customers, so that customers could catch up to the latest styles.”
Walking Dress
July 1818 - La Belle Assemblee
Carded Jacquard Loom
Events & Happenings 1795: Pinckney’s Treaty between the United States and Spain grants the Mississippi Territory to the U.S. 1796: Edward Jenner administers the first smallpox vaccination 1798: The Lithographic printing process is invented by Alois Senefelder 1799: Napoleon stages a coup d’état and becomes First Consul of France. 1800: The Slave Trade Act of 1800, which limited the involvement of the United States transporting slaves. 1800: Frenchmen, J.M. Jacquard invents the Jacquard Loom. 1801: The Kingdom of Great Britain and the Kingdom of Ireland merge to form the United Kingdom. 1803: Morphine is first made from opium. 1803: The “first practical steamboat” - the Charlotte Dundas - is introduced. 1804: World population reaches 1 billion. 1804: The Russians visit the Hawaiian islands on their way to Fort Ross in California. 1804: The Royal College of Surgeons is founded in London 1807: The Geological Society of London is created to collect facts for discussion. 1808: Spain’s authority in its American colonies declines. 1810: The University of Berlin was founded. The success of its model is copied around the world. 1812: In England, workers called Luddites destroy new textile machinery, fearing technological unemployment. 1814: The Flintlock Revolver is invented by Elisha Collier. 1814: George Stephenson designs the first steam locomotive. 1814: Joseph Nicéphore Niépce was the first person to take a photograph. 1815: Mount Tambora in Sumbawa island erupts, becoming the largest volcanic eruption in recorded history, destroying Tambora culture, and killing at least 71,000 people, including its aftermath. The eruption created global climate anomalies known as “volcanic winter”. 1819: The modern city of Singapore is established by the British East India Company. 1819: Samuel Fahnestock patents a “soda fountain”. 1819: René Laënnec invents the stethoscope. 1820: Discovery of Antarctica. 1820: Liberia founded by the American Colonization Society for freed American slaves. 1820: The US has becomes the world’s biggest producer of raw cotton.
Macintosh
Peony
Salmon
Tones and shades most often indicated age and marital status.
Skin
Canary
Gold
Sage
Olive
Aquamarine
Cornflower
Lilac
Core Palette
Fibers & Fur • • • • • •
Cotton Linen Silk Wool Chinchilla Fox
Fabrications • • • • • • • •
Muslin Chiffon Brocade Damask Jacquard Lace Netting Velvet
Patterns & Prints • • • •
Calico Classical Greek & Roman Paisley Block & Roller Prints
Trims & Sundries • • • • • •
Ribbon Embroidery Piping Tambour Work Vandyke Points Appliques and Rouleaux
Materials
Silhouettes & Styling Tubular Shape Grecian Influences Empire Waist Fitted Bodice Flowing Skirt Reduced Structure Decorative Trims Light & Airy Movement for Walking Comfort for Visiting Coordinating Accessories
Empire Waist & Light-weight Fabric
Under-Dress Chemise Short Stays Long Stays Petticoat Drawers Stockings Garters
Over-Dress Morning Afternoon Walking Riding Habit Traveling Evening Gown
Must-have Items Outerwear Pelisses Redingote Spencer Jacket Indian Shawl Mantle Mantelet Cape Cloak
Accessories
Bonnet Gloves Fans Parasol Choker Necklace Cameo Slipper Shoes (flat / low heel) Boots Hair Band
Spencer Jacket
Pelisses
Evening Dress
Straw Bonnet
Shawl
Ballet Slippers
Leather Gloves for Cool-weather Mobility
Redingote’s for Riding and Travel
“In this period, fashionable women’s clothing styles were based on the Empire silhouette — dresses were closely fitted to the torso just under the bust, falling loosely below. In different contexts, such styles are commonly called “Directoire style” (referring to the Directory government of France during the second half of the 1790s), “Empire style” (referring to Napoleon’s 1804–1814/1815 empire, and often also to his 1800–1804 “consulate”), or “Regency” (most precisely referring to the 1811–1820 period of George IV’s formal regency, but often loosely used to refer to various periods between the 18th century and the Victorian).”
Conclusion “These 1795–1820 fashions were quite different from the styles prevalent during most of the 18th century and the rest of the 19th century, when women’s clothes were generally tight against the torso from the natural waist upwards, and heavily full-skirted below (often inflated by means of hoop skirts, crinolines, panniers, bustles, etc.). The high waistline of 1795–1820 styles took attention away from the natural waist, so that there was then no point to the tight “wasp-waist” corseting often considered fashionable during other periods. Without the corset, chemise dresses displayed the long line of the body, as well as the curves of the female torso.”
On the Catwalk
Valentino
Lanvin
● Fall 2018 / Winter 2019 ●
Jason Wu
Resources General Information
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1795–1820_in_Western_fashion https://www.janeausten.co.uk/cloaks-capes-pelisses-and-spencers/ https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Empire_silhouette https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Outline_of_the_history_of_Western_civilization https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_Western_civilization https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/18th_century https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/19th_century
Imagery
Cover http://www.gogmsite.net/russian-style-in-the-french/1802-darya-yakovleva-by-vla.html https://en.expertissim.com/french-school-circa-1820-portrait-young-lady-wearing-pearl-diadem http://www.sothebys.com/content/dam/stb/lots/N08/N08404/N08404-343-lr-1.jpg https://www.flickr.com/photos/gandalfsgallery/8524146882 Fashion Week 1 http://www.vogue.it/en/shows/show/anna-sui http://www.vogue.it/en/shows/show/antonio-marras http://www.vogue.it/en/shows/show/blumarine Contents http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/regency/00-all-costume-fashion-images/0-cartoons-illustrations/?C=S;O=D The Era https://janeaustenslondon.files.wordpress.com/2014/08/1818.jpg Color Palette https://janeaustenslondon.files.wordpress.com/2014/12/spaniel2.jpg Materials http://www.inkwellinspirations.com/2012/01/dressing-mr-darcy-regency-fashion-live.html Silhouette & Styling https://www.shutterstock.com/image-vector/woman-fashion-greek-left-roman-right-98863949 Must-have Items https://www.pinterest.com/pin/343751384029566016 https://www.smithsonianmag.com/smart-news/meet-mary-kies-americas-first-woman-become-patent-holder-180959008/ Fashion Week 2 http://www.vogue.it/en/shows/show/valentino http://www.vogue.it/en/shows/show/lanvin http://www.vogue.it/en/shows/show/jason-wu