BFW November-December 2015

beauty SUCCESS STORY OF COSMOPROF ASIA 2015

www.beautyfashionworld.in November-December 2015

& FASHION WORLD

the

Cosmo

BOOSTING SALON BUSINESS

trends!

COSMETIC SURGERY IN SALONS

SkinYou! &

SHOW REPORT

Style Speak!

BEAUTILICIOUS!

COSMETICS

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AESTHETICS

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HAIRDRESSING

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NAILS

COSMETICS

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AESTHETICS

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HAIRDRESSING

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NAILS

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Indian Cosmetic Market Outlook The rising beauty concerns among both men and women are propelling the Indian cosmetics industry, which has witnessed a strong growth in the last few years. The country’s cosmetic sector has, in fact, emerged as one of the markets holding immense growth potential. New product launches catering to consumers’ growing requirements will fuel growth in the industry, for which the future outlook seems exceptionally bright. According to our latest research report, the Indian cosmetics market registered impressive sales worth INR 264.1 Billion in 2011, and with rising purchasing power and growing fashion consciousness, the industry is estimated to expand at a CAGR of around 17% during 2013-2015.

Our recent market research report, "Indian Cosmetic Market Outlook 2018", portrays the current and future scenario of cosmetic industry in India. As per our research findings, cosmetics market, once female dominated, has started earning high revenues from male counterparts as well, by catering to male-specific needs especially in creams and lotions. The revenue generated through male cosmetic market has increased the total revenue of Indian cosmetic industry.

Herbal cosmetic products are increasing foothold in the Indian cosmetics industry with the growing demand for natural products and awareness about their benefits among the population. As per our analysis, it is expected that this high demand will be lead by Southern India, as the region is more inclined towards home-made natural cosmetic products.

The Indian cosmetic industry has seen rapid strides over the past few years. With the development of cosmetic industry in the country, there has been influx of many international brands. The entry of more number of cosmetic brands in the Indian market has also been provoked by growing demand of branded products among people due to aggressive advertising strategies of players coupled with immense western influence. New product launches catering to consumers' growing requirements are also fuelling growth in the industry, carving bright prospects for the industry in the future.

Printed, Published & Owned by Amrita Kanwar. Published at D 182, PR House, Anand Vihar, Delhi 110 092 and Printed at Chandu Press, 63, Patparganj, Delhi. Editor : Amrita Kanwar

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Evolva & L’Oréal SUCCESSFULLY COMPLETE FIRST STAGE OF INNOVATIVE COSMETICS INGREDIENT PROJECT

E

volva Holding SA announces

L’Oréal in-house expertise com-

the successful completion of

bined with Evolva flexible yeast

the first part of its R&D

platform opens opportunities to

collaboration with L’Oréal. The

meet the needs

parties have agreed to move into

and aspirations of consumers”.

the next phase of the multi-year program.

Evolva CEO Neil Goldsmith said.

“We are pleased to have demon-

Under this collaboration, which

strated to L’Oréal our capabilities,

started in February 2014, Evolva and

and the strength and elegance of

L’Oréal are applying Evolva’s

our platform”.

About L’Oréal

innovative fermentation technology to develop a yeast strain optimized

About Evolva L’Oréal has devoted itself to beauty for over 105 years. With its unique

for sustainable and cost-effective production of a strategically

Evolva is one of the global leaders in

portfolio of 28 international, diverse and complementary brands, the Group

important cosmetics ingredient.

sustainable, fermentation-based

generated sales amounting to 23 billion euros in 2013 and employs 77,500

With the completion of the first work

approaches to ingredients for

people worldwide. As the world’s leading beauty company, L’Oréal is

package, Fabien Cabirol, L’Oreal’s

health, wellness and nutrition.

present across all distribution networks: mass market, department stores,

new Global Head of Biotechnolo-

Evolva’s products include stevia,

pharmacies and drugstores, hair salons, travel retail and branded retail.

gies Department, said “With this

vanilla, saffron and resveratrol. As

partnership L’Oréal aims to leverage

well as developing its own

Research and innovation, and a dedicated research team of 3,600 people,

on Evolva strong technological

proprietary ingredients, Evolva also

are at the core of L’Oréal’s strategy, working to meet beauty aspirations all

platform to develop innovative

deploys its technology for partners,

over the world and attract one billion new consumers in the years to come.

cosmetic ingredients with perceiv-

providing them with a competitive

L’Oréal’s new sustainability commitment for 2020 “Sharing Beauty With All”

able performance and measurable

edge and sharing in the returns they

sets out ambitious sustainable development objectives across the Group’s

sustainability benefits.

make.

value chain.

Beauty & Fashion World | November-December 2015 | 5

s k i n | c a r e

COSMETICS SURGERY IN SALONS

HANDHELD DEVICE LAUNCHED FOR TREATMENT OF SKIN Schick Medical has released a handheld device used to treat various skin conditions.

The device, Sqoom clinical, is used in conjunction with a range of gels which Schick claim aid skin issues such as psoriasis, rosacea, neurodermatitis and acne.

The device is said to work by using a magnetic field and ultrasound combination alongside restorative gels that are gently massaged into the skin via one million vibrations per second. The company claim that through the vibrations, gel penetrates the upper skin layers and travels through to the dermis. “The ingredients of the gel can be introduced into the deeper layers of the skin where they are needed.

Ordinary crèmes and gels applied to the skin-surface cannot penetrate into the deeper layers and are therefore very limited in their effects,” said Dr Helmut Christ, an internal medicine specialist who pioneered the Sqoom clinical developing process.

According to Schick Medical, the energy created by the ultrasound and cosmetic waves causes the particles of skin to vibrate and rotate within the tissue at a far greater level, resulting in increased cell circulation. With three different programme levels, the device has been developed to treat various skin types, such as gentle treatment of sensitive skin. Schick also claim the device can treat the pain of fractures to the tibia, distal radius and long tubular bones.

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More than 1,000 exhibitors and brands at the BEAUTY FORUM MUNICH HELD ON 17/18 OCTOBER ON THE TRADE FAIR GROUNDS IN RIEM/ CONGRESSES SOLD-OUT/IMPRESSIVE VISITOR NUMBERS

T

he BEAUTY FORUM MUNICH anniversary event successfully came to a close on Sunday. All three exhibition halls in Riem were filled to capacity with more than 1,000 exhibitors and brands, equating to a whopping 20 percent increase. BEAUTY FORUM MUNICH also equalled last year’s outstanding visitor figures, registering a total of 40,000 this year. In addition, both the Anti-Aging Congress and Podiatry Congress were completely sold out. The shows and championships were also at the heart of the action. While star make-up artist Horst Kirchberger and the Munich Hair Academy rocked the stage on Saturday, Sunday saw Catherine Nail Collection present an impressive fashion show featuring alternative model Myriam von M. and actress Natascha Ochsenknecht.

Award winners were also selected in the 28th International Masters Award Make-up, 28th European Masters Award Nail Design, 11th BEAUTY FORUM Bodypainting Trophy, 29th German Make-up Championship, 7th WorldCup NailArt and 3rd International Lashes Trophy.

BEAUTY FORUM MUNICH 2015 was the 30th anniversary event. The trade fair attracts trade visitors from beauty salons and the cosmetics industry, massage parlours and pedicure salons, the field of podiatry, nail studios, hairdressers, pharmacies, retail and the hotel industry.

Notable is the high percentage of international guests. A new feature this year was the interactive hall plan with an exhibitor list (also for mobile devices), which made it much easier to find exhibitors.

The next BEAUTY FORUM trade fair in Germany is the 6th BEAUTY FORUM Leipzig, which will take place on 23/24 April 2016 at the Leipzig trade fair grounds. www.beautyfairs.de/leipzig/ Organiser Domiciled in Ettlingen near Karlsruhe, Health and Beauty Germany GmbH is a leading organiser of beauty care trade fairs and is also a licensor and think tank for new, successful trade fair concepts that are implemented internationally. www.beauty-fai rs.de www.beauty-forum.com

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BOOSTING SALON BUSINESS

L'OrĂŠal is bolstering its R&D unit in India to cater to Southeast Asia's growing demand for the hair care and male grooming products

T

he Paris-headquartered firm has invested about Rs 10bn in manufactur ing and research facilities so far in India.

It aims to make India a top leading five markets in the coming years with an aim to generate Rs 7bn revenue by the end of 2020.

L'Oreal India managing director Jean-Christophe Letellier was quoted by PTI as saying: "Our R&I centres in Mumbai and Bangalore are working on sustainable innovation to meet our target of reducing carbon emissions by 60 per cent at our plants and distribution centres by 2020."

Further, the firm is looking to lessen the gap between hygiene related products with the treatment and care range segments as the country holds deep roots in natural and herbal products.

It also aims to grow its presence in the booming men's grooming section over the last few years.

"Men's grooming and skincare is booming, and we expect fast growth in this category to continue in the next decade," Letellier. The company's brands such as Garnier are doing well in the Tier II and Tier III markets and are relatively growing year by year. It has made available shampoos, face washes and hair colours in sachets, a concept that has grown popular in the country.

Beauty & Fashion World | November-December 2015 | 13

Cosmeceuticals: Combining Moisturizers With Antioxidants

C

ertain ingredients in cosmeceuticals may help clear up acne and make your skin look younger. Get the scoop on the pros and cons of common cosmeceutical ingredients.

Who doesn’t love a moisturizer with a luxurious feel? And wouldn’t it be great if it also made your skin look clearer or younger? That’s the promise of cosmeceuticals.

“Cosmeceuticals try to bridge the gap between what you can get at the cosmetic counter and what you can get at a pharmacy,” says Suzan Obagi, MD, president of the Cosmetic Surgery Foundation and associate professor of dermatology and director of the Cosmetic Surgery and Skin Health Center at the University of Pittsburgh.

Prescription medications are designed to work very effectively, but often they don’t have the elegance or feel of over-the-counter moisturizers.

They’re also not typically tailored to different skin types, Dr. Obagi says. But cosmeceuticals are good quality products that effectively make your skin look younger while being tailored for dry, oily, or combination skin.

Here are some common ingredients in cosmeceuticals and what you can expect from them.

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Hydroxy Acids Moisturizers that contain hydroxy acids, such as alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta hydroxy acids (BHAs), help to exfoliate the outer layer of dead skin cells, Obagi says.

as Neutrogena, Revlon, Aveeno, and

The most common AHAs are glycolic and lactic acid, but others include citric acid, hydroxycaprylic acid, and hydroxycapric acid.

Salicylic acid is the most commonly available BHA, adds Obagi. Some cosmeceuticals combine both AHAs and BHAs.

Oil of Olay.

Pros: Hydroxy acids help keep the surface of skin smooth and unclog pores, which helps improve acne.

And when you use a moisturizer with a hydroxy acid in the morning, it enables other products you put on throughout the day, such as antiaging creams and serums, to better penetrate your skin, Obagi says.

Salicylic acid, in particular, is very good at penetrating the skin and improving acne.

You can find these types of cosmeceuticals at the drugstore.

Obagi suggests choosing a brand that has a large research and development department to back up the quality of the product, such

Cons: AHAs can be irritating because they’re more acidic than salicylic acid, Obagi explains. For that reason, you may experience stinging when you use them. People who have rosacea tend to do better with

salicylic acid, she adds. Hydroxy acids also make your skin more sensitive to the sun, so it’s important to wear sunscreen if you’re using this cosmeceutical. People who have photosensitive disorders such as lupus should avoid hydroxy acids altogether, Obagi says.

Antioxidants and Vitamins There are a host of moisturizers on the market with added vitamins and antioxidants. Antioxidants help your skin by counteracting the effect of free radicals, which cause inflammation and can lead to prematurely aging skin and skin cancer. These products may contain C, D, E, and B-complex vitamins.

Pros: Vitamin C serum is part of a good anti-aging regimen and can effectively prevent wrinkles and age spots. However, Obagi recom-

mends buying a serum sold in your dermatologist’s office because less expensive drugstore brands may not work as well.

Cons: Vitamin C is the only vitamin that’s known to benefit the skin when it’s applied topically, Obagi says, so it’s not necessary to buy other moisturizers with vitamins or antioxidants. It’s better to get those antioxidant vitamins in your diet and through supplements. In addition, vitamin E is a known allergen, so there is a risk of an allergic reaction if you use a product that contains it, she says.

Retinoids, which are derivatives of vitamin A, have been shown to reduce fine lines and wrinkles, smooth out the skin, and help to fade age spots.

Pros: The prescription formula based on the retinoid called tretinoin (Retin-A) is one of the best antiaging regimens you can follow, Obagi says.

However, tretinoin is only available by prescription and isn’t available as a cosmeceutical.

Cons: True cosmeceuticals that contain retinoids aren’t as effective as the prescription drug, Obagi says.

If you’re looking for help with antiaging, this is one cosmeceutical to leave on the shelf in favor of the prescription.

Peptides Copper peptides, which are building blocks for cell renewal, are a new trend in cosmeceuticals.

They’re touted as a powerful antiaging ingredient that can help your skin produce more collagen, making

it look younger and plumper.

Pros: Peptides have more of an allure because they promise what other products don’t, Obagi says.

Cons: However, there’s no research that has shown that peptides work.

“The problem is that skin is a good barrier,” Obagi says so the copper peptides in an expensive cream may not even be able to penetrate the surface.

The good news: Cosmeceuticals, such as the ones that contain hydroxy acids and vitamin C, are great choices for your skin, Obagi says. Keep in mind that moisturizers don’t perform miracles, but tried and true cosmeceuticals can offer the benefits of healthier, youngerlooking skin with the feel of a luxurious cream.

Beauty & Fashion World | November-December 2015 | 15

packaging|matters

Quadpack Launches its Packaging Range Focused on Body Care Products

Q

uadpack has launched its first range of packs focused on body products: the 'Body Care Collection'.

Applying its recognized expertise in skin care, this elegant compilation of packaging concepts offers all the sophistication and style of a highend cosmetics range.

Quadpack Launches Body Care Collection The Body Care Collection represents a kind of 'knowledge transfer'," explains Skin Care Category Manager David Reguill. "Luxury skin care packaging is one of our core strengths at Quadpack. Body care, on the other hand, tends to be lower masstige/mass market with a corresponding look and feel. That’s why we decided to close the gap with a new premium range, pouring all our know-how into a collection that effectively brings luxury spa

treatments into the home."

The Body Care Collection comprises packaging solutions for the nine most popular treatments, from body lotion to hair oil. Each pack features component parts carefully selected from the most suitable manufacturers according to functionality, compatibility and aesthetics. The finished packs have each been tested at Quadpack's central test laboratory to ensure an optimum configuration.

For the most prestigious brands, Quadpack can add components in aluminum and wood, the latter from its own manufacturing facility at Technotraf Wood Packaging. The specialist decoration services at Krampak are available if high-end decoration is required.

"When you look at this collection, it is clear that it offers something more than usual body care collections. It has an excellent price/performance, but the main differentiator here is quality. The Body Care Collection is

16 | November-December 2015 | Beauty & Fashion World

on a different level. It's pure luxury", concludes Reguill.

Technotraf Wood Packaging and Krampak are Quadpack Group companies.

About Quadpack Group Quadpack is an international provider of enhanced packaging solutions for beauty and skin care brand owners and contract fillers. With offices in the UK, France, Spain, Germany, Italy, Turkey, Australia and the Far East, and a strategic network of manufacturing partners, Quadpack sources and develops customized packs for prestige, masstige and mass market customers. Quadpack is a founding member of the Airless Pack Association.

b e a u t y | l i v e

Beauty Basics: How to Apply False Lashes

H

ave you ever spent hours in front of the mirror trying to apply fake eyelashes, only to end up with them sticking out at strange angles, or—worse—fall off completely after a few hours?

Because falsies are tricky to master, we tapped Los Angeles–based makeup artist Gia Brascia to show us her tried-and-true application (and removal) tips.

1: Before you do anything else, measure the length of the lash to make sure it fits your eye shape. If the strip needs to be cut to fit, snip the outer edge completely off with small nail scissors. This will avoid drooping at the corner (meaning: no more lashes poking your eyeball).

2: Take both edges of the lash and bend inward to create a “C” shape, and hold for a couple of seconds.

That’s the best way to take out the

straightness and ensure it molds to our curved eye shape and stays put without the corners lifting up. Just this alone will make the rest of the process effortless.

3: Apply a high-quality glue such as DUO Eyelash Adhesive for lasting results (Brascia suggests avoiding the glue that comes with your lashes). If you have a steady hand, you can squeeze straight from the tube onto the strip. Tend to get shaky? An easy trick: put glue on the reverse (handle) end of a tweezer and glide it across the strip, as pictured. Be generous at both the inner and outer corners so the glue won’t unstick when you blink.

4: Wait ten seconds or so for the glue to become more tactile and sticky (you can also blow on the glue or wave it gently in the air) before placing the lash. This is the

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best way to keep the strip from slipping around while you’re trying to line it up properly.

5: Aim for the base of your natural lash line, right on top of your real lashes, not touching the eyelid at all.

The glue dries clear, so don’t worry if a little gets on your skin.

6: Once you’ve placed both lashes, you can do your mascara; this will help integrate the natural lashes with the false ones.

7: If you see a gap showing on the eyelid between your real lashes and falsies, don’t worry! You don’t have to pull it off and start again, says Brascia. Just fill in the gap, using a matte black eye shadow as a liner to hide it (we used Inglot Cosmetics Freedom System Eyeshadow in 391). This step will also help the glue dry more quickly.

Removal Tips: Always remove false lashes before taking off rest of your eye makeup. First pre-soften the glue with a cotton swab that’s been soaked in an oily makeup remover, like rms beauty Raw Coconut Cream.

Dab the swab along the lash line to loosen the glue and break down its stickiness. With your eye open, take hold of the lash at tip of the outer corner. Then close your eyes and very slowly peel the strip away from your real lash, working from outer to inner corner—toward the nose.

Are Natural Skin Care Products Better?

N

atural skin care products may be appealing if you want to limit artificial ingredients and chemicals in and on your body. But are natural ingredients, which tend to increase prices, really better for your skin?

You can't hide your skin, so you want to take care of it. You want to put your best face forward — with clear, glowing, smooth, natural skin.

You may even be willing to spend more for skin care products that boast better results because contain natural ingredients or are labeled "organic."

But what do those terms really mean? Is the "natural" or "organic" label worth the extra weight of the price tag — is it really any better for your skin and for the environment? t all comes down to what you want from your skin products and what your particular skin type needs.

Is Natural Better?

"When choosing between a natural or organic product and one that's not, it's helpful to think about what is important to you," says Kelly C. Nelson, MD, a dermatologist and assistant professor at Duke University School of Medicine in North Carolina.

Decide what you want to get out of your skin care products. Are you

looking for something that won't irritate your skin, gives you better results and healthier skin, or has less impact on the environment? Do you want a combination of all those elements?

"If you're in the market for a product that's fragrance- or preservative-free, or presented with minimal or recycled packaging, it may be easier to meet those criteria with a natural or organic product," says Dr. Nelson.

But don't read too much into the labels or make assumptions that may not be true. Natural doesn't always mean better, and natural ingredients aren't necessarily safer or more likely to provide better results.

"People with sensitive skin may opt for natural or organic products in an attempt to avoid skin allergic reactions, which may work, but sometimes doesn't," Nelson says.

If you're going to try a natural or organic product, allow some time to see if it really is compatible with your skin and if it's worth the additional price. "Give any product at least a month to determine if it meets your

22 | November-December 2015 | Beauty & Fashion World

needs, or less if your skin complains," says Nelson.

Specific Skin Products for Specific Skin Types If you're curious about whether a particular natural ingredient is better for your skin, Nelson also suggests just figuring out what your skin needs. It's also important to understand that you don't have to choose natural (or more expensive) to get a good skin care product that works well with your skin.

"While oatmeal-containing products do help moisturize the skin, there are many products that don't contain oatmeal that do a wonderful job, too," says Nelson. Soy has been found in studies to improve elasticity and firmness of skin. "Soycontaining products can help improve pigment irregularities that are associated with an aged appearance, but there are several prescription and over-the-counter products that can do an even better job," she says. Many natural ingredients that are marketed as better for skin, including acai berry, green tea, olive oil, chamomile,

pomegranate, and many more, need to be better studied and investigated in regard to their benefits to skin.

Studies also need to explore any possible negative effects before these products can be said to work as well or better than non-natural products.

Results from a less expensive nonnatural product can be just as good as from a natural product, and vice versa.

And you could still experience an allergic reaction from an ingredient in a natural skin care product, while a non-natural product for sensitive skin may not trigger any reaction.

Natural products can be both very effective in promoting healthy skin and more environmentally friendly.

But you don't have to choose natural, organic, or expensive skin care products to find something that works well. What matters is finding skin care products that keep your skin moisturized, glowing, and blemish-free, whether they’re natural or not.

Why Do Your Fingers Prune Up After a Bath? equivalent of rain treads — those functional grooves on all-weather tires and shoes that help with traction in wet conditions.

Changizi believes that these socalled treads on hands and feet may have been built into DNA over the ages to improve your grip.

“Our pruney fingers may be a crucial part of our primate repertoire,” he wrote in an article for Forbes.com.

“Once primates went the way of finger nails rather than claws, treads were needed where claws may have sufficed before.”

To support this theory, Changizi and his team analyzed pattern similarities in 28 photographs of pruney fingers.

All 28 had wrinkles that formed vertical channels, which work to drain water away from fingertips.

Pruney fingers' may sound silly, but finding out what's behind them is serious science.

I

f you’ve ever spent too much time in the pool, or if you like to unwind at the end of a hard day with an hours-long soak in the tub, you’re probably familiar with the “pruney fingers” phenomenon.

Believe it or not, scientists have been studying this raisin-like effect for decades, trying to figure out why your hands (and sometimes your feet) get so wrinkly when wet.

One popular idea is that your skin simply becomes waterlogged.

According to the Library of Congress, the epidermis, or outer layer of skin, is made up of dead keratin cells that absorb moisture when immersed in water for an extended period of time. This

absorption causes the cells to swell, but because they’re still connected to the underlying tissue, which does not expand, the outer skin has to wrinkle to compensate for its larger surface area. It’s a little like having a king-size sheet for a queen-size mattress: The extra material has nowhere to go, so it bunches up unevenly on top.

But why are only your fingers and toes affected — why doesn’t your entire body wrinkle? Scientists say it’s because our hands and feet have the thickest epidermis and thus more keratin cells to absorb water.

(Your nails also contain keratin, which is why they may feel softer after you do the dishes.)

Is There a Purpose to Pruning?

The problem with this hypothesis is that it doesn’t really account for the fact that fingers and toes don’t wrinkle when their nerve endings have been severed, as by injury or complications from diabetes. This can be explained by a different

24 | November-December 2015 | Beauty & Fashion World

theory, which proposes that the prune-like effect is due not to skin saturation but to a reaction in the central nervous system — a “classic mechanics problem,” as Columbia University biomechanical engineer Xi Chen, PhD, explained it to Nature News.

The mechanics theory is based on the idea of vasoconstriction, or the narrowing of blood vessels.

Basically, when fingers and toes are immersed in hot or cold water, nerve endings fire off signals that cause your blood vessels to constrict and the tissue below your skin’s surface to contract. This, in turn, forces the outermost layer of skin to buckle, resulting in wrinkling.

But recent research suggests there may be even more to wrinkly skin than that. Evolutionary neurobiologist Mark Changizi, PhD, and his team at 2AI Labs in Boise, Idaho, are working to prove their theory that pruney fingers and toes are not just the products of a dermatological quirk; rather, they’re the genetic

“In order for a hand to reach out and grip a wet surface without hydroplaning, it needs a way to efficiently remove the water between the skin and the surface it is trying to grip,” he explained. “The best way to quickly move water tends to be via channels, the stuff of arteries and rivers.”

More research is needed to prove Changizi’s hypothesis, but he’s already hard at work on follow-up studies. Next on his list, according to Nature News: testing whether wrinkles actually allow for better grip and looking into whether mammals in wet climates are more likely to get pruney fingers than those in dry habitats.

If the theory holds up, he says, we may be able to use pruney fingers to improve our existing tire and shoe rain-tread technology.

“Far from an embarrassing mistake,” he wrote, “wet wrinkled fingers are yet another testament to biology’s brilliance.”

Our happy flower collection upcoming spring-/ summer 2015 is becoming bloomy-fresh! Colour combinations mirror the awakening attitude to life which one can feel with the first mild sunrays coming out. Simple, but bold colours of the nature will be discovered new. A cool shade of blue, fresh lemon-yellow, bright orange, soothing peach – nude or gaudy shades of pink and red. Are you keen for sun and fun? Show your colours and spread summer mood! Contact: Tel. +49 (0) 6051-92260, www.akzent-direct-gmbh.com

Nivea pulled out of European travel retail and duty free market

Israel’s EZface launches new app to test cosmetic products before purchase

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CoverGirl, Physician Formula, Sally Hansen, and Wet n' Wild.

The company intends to 'realign Nivea's travel retail business' after witnessing a tough period for the brand under the luxury-led duty free market.

Additionally, the app will enable users to save the looks and share them with their friends through Facebook and Instagram.

Nivea stated: 'For the future, the focus of Nivea's travel retail business will lie with markets outside of Europe.'

The app features a computer algorithm that stores the properties and identifies them by the SKU number, enabling consumers to scan and see how they look in a particular shade, reported newsfirst.lk.

ivea, Beiersdorf-owned beauty brand, has been taken off from the European travel retail and duty free market as mass market brands are struggling to gain consumer attention as compared to luxury brands in Europe.

Nivea Travel Retail was quoted by Globalcosmeticsnews.com as saying: "The last few years have shown, that the purchase behaviour of shoppers within the European travel environment is not yet as favourable for us (compared with) other regions of the world.

"After careful consideration, we have therefore decided to discontinue our activities in Europe." Even though there has been a conscious push within the market in the last one year, the brand will now be taken off European travel retail and duty free market in favour of growing markets such as the Middle East, North Africa and India.

The company states, "This different shopper-mix as well as the level of distribution and availability of Nivea ranges in the respective countries differs from that in Europe (where Nivea is extremely well distributed across all sales channels)." This move, however, will not impact Beiersdorf's high-end brand La Prairie. The plan will not affect jobs, the company stated.

A

fter uploading the picture of the user, the barcode of the desired product is scanned through the smartphone, allowing the user to virtually 'try on' products to check whether it suits the user or not.

According to the app creators, Ruth Gal and Rami Orpaz, the technology is capable of measuring skin tones and maps facial features, while it delivers 95% accurate results.

An EZface statement on their website was quoted by iDigitalTimes as saying: "TryItOn analyses the areas in which the users apply makeup, defines the makeup areas' pigments and blends them accurately with the product's attributes.

"As a result, the makeup shades are applied accurately and realistically on the users' images. These accurate results reduce purchase time and help avoid any potential makeup letdowns."

Already launched in the US and featured in Rite Aid drugstores and Walmart, the app is expected to help stores reduce returns and wasted inventory.

Amway opens $25m manufacturing facility in Vietnam

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est Michigan-based Amway, a direct selling company, has opened a new $25m manufacturing plant in Vietnam, one of the six new facilities company is set to open in 2015.

The 55,000m2 facility will be a home to select manufacturing operations for Nutrilite, a vitamin, mineral and dietary supplements brand.

Amway chairman Steve Van Andel said: "The opening of our second factory in Vietnam will help our distributors reach more customers and become even more successful. We're committed to the continued growth of Amway Vietnam and look forward to many more years of helping to improve the lives of our distributors and the communities where they work and live."

Based in Ho Chi Minh City, Amway began selling products in Vietnam in 2008. The company's first manufacturing facility is located in the Dong Nai Province. It has 10 branches throughout the country, with about 450 employees and 300,000 distributors.

Amway Vietnam general director Leo Boon Wang said: "The substantial investment in building up a second factory in Binh Duong demonstrates strongly our long-term commitment to Vietnam and our desire to play a part in contributing to the socio-economic growth of the country."

As a part of $332m global manufacturing expansion strategy the company has opened plants in India, China, Washington, California, and Ada, near the company's headquarters.

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PACKAGING

Economic slowdown hits US beauty packaging

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he slowdown of economy has scarred the US beauty and personal care packaging market as sales dropped in 2011, according to a study

by Companies & Markets.

The US beauty and personal care packaging market has experienced unit volume sales decrease by 1%, falling to 11.6 billion units in 2011, states the report.

According to the market researcher, the precarious economic environment has had an impact on consumers' approach to buy beauty and personal care products, causing the packaging market to be adversely impacted, reported cosmeticsdesign.com.

MWV president James Buzzard said the personal and beauty care is a mix of fragrance and other products, which have fallen dramatically and is expected given the economy. .

The report reveals that the consumers have turned to travel sizes as a way to limit their investment while experimenting with new products. .

In 2011, with a health-conscious consumer base, the sun care segment packaging has reported a growth of 8%, as more customers concerned about skin health are opting for convenient packaging formats.

Companies & Markets believes that in spite of the dull economic scenario of the US market, consumers are likely to continue to seek beauty and personal care products out of a perceived necessity.

The report has concluded that unit volumes are expected to remain relatively stagnant through to 2015, within the US beauty and personal care packaging market, although some categories will see growth as manufacturers attempt to create differentiation within them through packaging.

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Mexico issues new labelling guideline for cosmetics

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he Ministry of Health in Mexico has issued a new labelling guideline for pre-packaged cosmetics in a bid to resolve instances where a product might be misunderstood or even misbranded.

According to the Ministry, with the new regulation, a cosmetic company in Mexico must register with the SSA (Secretariat of Health) for a physical and chemical analysis, along with a Spanish translation and / or a free sale certificate and consular legalisation, reported cosmeticsdesign.com.

The Ministry as per the new standard has issued a new set of requirements and recommendations to the cosmetic companies to make sure that a product makes its entry into the market meeting regulatory standards.

In recent years, the Mexican government has come down on cosmetic companies looking to make way for imported products onto the market.

In 2009, the government announced it was imposing an additional 20% higher duty on certain personal care products imported from the US, which it estimated of having an impact of approximately $2.4bn in trade with the US. The government said the new move was part of its attempt at ending a pilot scheme allowing Mexican trucks into the US. Mexico's new standards are likely to affect some of the industry's major players such as Procter & Gamble and Johnson & Johnson which are popular in the country's market.

The new standard was jointly developed by the Ministry, the Federal Commission for Protection against Health Risks (COFEPRIS), and the Federal Consumer General Address Verification and Monitoring Research Coordination.

The standard PROY-NOM-141-SSA1/ SCFI-2010 'Labelling of prepackaged cosmetic products, Health and commercial labelling,' is published in the administration's official journal (Diario Oficial de la Federaci贸n).

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www.tana-cosmetics.de | info@tana-cosmetics.de

Amway launches redesigned Satinique hair care portfolio

California gets new hair smoothing salon

Amway, a consumer product company, is launching its newly redesigned Satinique hair care portfolio, with structural packaging and graphics created by global brand agency CBX.

Touted to be the first salon in the nation to specialise entirely on hairsmoothing treatments, The Smooth Bar is located at 1807 Robinson Ave #104 San Diego, California.

As part of the redesign, CBX simplified and contemporised the packaging of nine cleansing items and four conditioners, as well as a host of styling gels and serums, final-touch sprays, mousse and other products. For the new logo, CBX added a touch of uniqueness to the 'q' in Satinique and mirrored the letterform in a rejuvenating drop icon that sits with the brand mark.

Satinique products now feature a jewel-tone and metallic colour palette with premium finishes. CBX managing partner Gregg S. Lipman said: The redesign project, which took top design honors in the hair care category this past June at HBA Global, the Health & Beauty Aids Expo and Conference, will aid Satinique remain relevant, contemporary and fresh in global brand markets for years to come.

The Smooth Bar creator Stacey Zayas said: "Smoothing treatments are now the largest single service growth area in the salon industry, with a rapidly expanding customer base.

"Because Amway is a $11.8 billion company with a vast network of global customers and distributors, the structural positioning and graphics also needed to be universally appealing," Lipman explained.

"And since Amway customers receive products direct from distributors rather than shopping for them at shelf as with a typical CPG, the design considerations were a bit different as well."

The Smooth Bar, the first hair salon to specialise in hair smoothning treatments, has been unveiled in the US.

"Smooth hair is a style that just doesn't seem to come or go - it's always fashionable, and that's a big plus in our industry. I'm also thrilled to say we'll be the first salon in California to specialize exclusively in Brazilian Keratin treatments," Zayas added.

The Smooth Bar offers latest and best treatments. Stylists are well trained to understand the wide variety of hair types and recommend the best options for each and every customer, the company said.

Further, the Smooth Bar plans to adopt the highest possible safety standards for the salon industry and value.

The Smooth Bar is planning to introduce a unique fume extraction system, designed to pull fumes and byproducts from the air and filter them out before they are released back into the atmosphere.

Schwan Cosmetics USA inaugurates new facility in Rutherford County

S

chwan Cosmetics USA, which is headquartered in Germany and known as manufacturer of cosmetic pencils, has inaugurated its new facility in Rutherford County.

The facility is located on 25 acre.

According to the company, the facilities of Piscataway, New Jersey and Lewisburg, Tennessee have been integrated into the Rutherford County facility.

The $40m plant provides around 350 jobs.

Rutherford County Chamber of Commerce vice president of economic development Brian Hercules was quoted by Daily News Journal as saying: "Schwan's decision to combine two locations and house their North American headquarters speaks volumes for the business climate in Rutherford County.

"Having this innovative company in our community will diversify our manufacturing base, offer potential collaboration with higher-education institutions and offer additional opportunities for our workforce."

The company's managing director Holli Montgomery was quoted by Daily News Journal that about 200 jobs will be transferred from Lewisburg facility to Murfreesboro.

The facility comprises labs and warehouses for its cosmetic pencils and tip pencils.

The company has more than 4,400 employees.

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COSMOPROF ASIA 2015 CONFIRMS RECORD NUMBERS FOR ITS 20th EDITION

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osmoprof Asia celebrated its 20th anniversary from 11 to 13 November at the Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre with record visitor and exhibitor numbers.

63,241 visitors from 119 countries and regions attended the event (5.5% increase on last year), of which 40,761 came from outside of Hong Kong (up 7% compared to 2014). There was a significant increase in visitors from the United States and Europe, including Austria, France, Poland, Portugal and Sweden, as well as from emerging markets such as Chile, Thailand, Ukraine and Vietnam.

“Cosmoprof Asia 2015 hosted 2,504 exhibiting companies from 46 countries which is an increase of 6% compared to last year, with an exhibition area of more than 84,000 sqm, a 3% expansion”, said Michael Duck, Director of Cosmoprof Asia Ltd “Every year we are witnessing a growth in the show which confirms its importance for the Asian beauty industry”.

The international flavour was strong with the participation of 22 national and group pavilions, which include the largest-ever Korean pavilion (a collection of 212 companies over 2,696 sqm) as well as the first-timer Chile.

“Cosmoprof Asia is the main focal point for the international beauty industry as we continue to invest in the growth of the show with a focus on the Chinese market,” said Duccio Campagnoli, President of Cosmoprof Asia Ltd. COSMOPROF ASIA 20th ANNIVERSARY The 2015 edition of Cosmoprof Asia marked an important milestone for the fair. From its humble beginnings

in 1996, Cosmoprof Asia has expanded rapidly to become the most recognised and celebrated event in the beauty sector.

Italy and the USA were recognised as ‘Countries of Honour’ for their dedicated support and contribution towards the growth of the fair. Italy, with the support of Ministry of Economic Development and ICE – Italian Trade Agency, in collaboration with Cosmetica Italia, organised 107 Italian companies in a dedicated area of 2,338 sqm. ICMAD - The Independent Cosmetic Manufacturers and Distributors supported the participation of 90 companies from the United States occupying 1,867 sqm.

POSITIVE BUSINESS RESULTS During the three days of the exhibition, visitors took part in events, live demonstrations and seminars, and as well as enhance their industry education. Participants also took advantage of the show’s inaugural Match & Meet programme, an online business matching platform designed to facilitate quality meetings between key visitors and exhibitors.

NEW EXHIBITION AREAS One of the highlights in 2015 was Spot on Beauty, an area of 3,700 sqm dedicated to companies focused on finished products for the spa & wellness, hair, nail, cosmetics & personal care sectors.

As part of Spot on Beauty, Cosmoprof Asia presented the second edition of Boutique, the charitable initiative which this year was dedicated to The Women’s Foundation, founded in 2004 to help women in Hong Kong who suffer from domestic violence and social discrimination. Visitors get to select seven travel-size products from the participating companies for a small cash donation. The technical

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sponsor was HCP Packaging Hong Kong Limited, which produced the gift box.

Reflecting one of the biggest global trends in the beauty industry today, a new initiative was introduced at the fair called Discover Trends. This area offered visitors a rich selection

of innovative products from the three fastest-growing segments of the cosmetic industry: natural & organic, baby care and men’s care.

26 companies from 9 countries took part. Some of the notable exhibitors were Petal Fresh from USA, Rohr Remedy and Manuka Doctor from Australia for natural & organic

products; First Light from Australia and Naïf from the Netherlands with products dedicated to new-born children and mums; Giesen & Forsthoff from Germany for men’s care, specifically men’s grooming.

EDUCATION SESSIONS The free-to-attend Spot on Beauty

Forum focused on beauty trends and Asian market development. 12 discussions were held, providing visitors with unique insight into the topical issues facing the industry.

Particularly well-attended were the sessions presented by Beautystreams focusing on men’s fashion and grooming trends for

Beauty & Fashion World | November-December 2015 | 37

Spring/Summer 2016, by Centdegrés discussing the perfumery trends in Asia and by Organic Monitor presenting the future of natural and organic cosmetics in Asia. Other popular sessions included “Indonesia Ethno Wellness Spa” by the Martha Tilaar Group, and the “Cosmetic Market Update – Japan, Korea and China” presented by Conceptasia Inc.

the main themes were on creating customer experiences, the evolution of the spa business in China and the growing influence of male clients on the industry.

Adding to the rich calendar of events was International Nail Days at which leading nail professionals shared their knowledge, best practices and forecasts for the nail sector.

SEE YOU IN 2016! Following years of resounding success, growth and development, Cosmoprof Asia will introduce the concept of "One Fair, Two Venues" in 2016. Presenting the Fair in more spacious and specialised platforms will allow exhibitors to expand their presence, for visitors to better realise their sourcing goals, resulting in more business opportunities for everyone.

Well-known nail artists also presented the latest news and trends for colors, decorations and technologies of the future.

The 8th edition of Cosmoprof Asia Spa Conference was a resounding success. 15 industry speakers shared their know-how and vision on the spa world and offered insights on best practices. Some of

The 2016 edition will be held strategically across two venues From 15 to 17 November, AsiaWorld-Expo will host exhibitors of ingredients, machinery & equipment, packaging, contract manufacturing and private label.

From 16 to 18 November the Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre will open its doors for all

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finished products: cosmetics & toiletries, natural health, beauty salon, hair salon, nail and accessories. For further information please visit our website: www.cosmoprofasia.com

Cosmopack, held March 17- 20, 2016, is the most important meeting point in the world for professionals in the beauty sector.

ABOUT UBM ASIA LTD

ABOUT BOLOGNAFIERE GROUP

www.ubmasia.com Owned by UBM plc listed on the London Stock Exchange, UBM Asia is the largest trade show organiser in Asia and the largest commercial organiser in China, India and Malaysia.

www.bolognafiere.it BolognaFiere Group, the world’s leading trade show organizer in the cosmetics, fashion, architecture, building, art and culture sectors, features in its portfolio more than 80 exhibitions, both domestic and international.

BolognaFiere Cosmoprof spa, a company of BolognaFiere Group, is the organizer of Cosmoprof, an international platform, with events in Bologna (established 1967), Hong Kong (established 1996) and Las Vegas (established 2003).

Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna, held March 18 - 21, 2016 with

Established with its headquarters in Hong Kong and subsidiary companies across Asia and in the US, UBM Asia has a strong global network of 31 offices and 1,300 staff in 24 major cities. We operate in 20 market sectors with 230 exhibitions and conferences, 21 trade publications, 18 online products for over 2,000,000 quality exhibitors, visitors, conference delegates, advertisers and subscribers from all over the world.

Beauty & Fashion World | November-December 2015 | 39

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BVLGARI LE GEMME ORIENTALI: Lazulia, Selima and Zahira The luxurious Bvlgari Le Gemme collection that launched last year first presented six fragrances inspired by gems, all housed in beautiful flacons shaped like antique amphorae: Ashlemah, Noorah, Amarena, Lilaia, Maravilla and Calaluna. This year’s editions are inspired by the most well-known gems that can be found on the Arabic peninsula: Lazulia celebrates lapis lazuli, Selima conveys the beauty of cornelian, while Zahira evokes the intense shine of topaz.

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Lazulia is a woody-oriental fragrance inspired by Arabic nights and lapis lazuli, a gem of nobility and spirituality. Lazulia in Arabic means "dark blue". This gem is a power of life strength and sources of energy and appears as dark blue with tiny golden-white dots evoking the starry sky. The composition of the fragrance is in compliance with its character and provides mysterious and hypnotic oriental shades intertwining with precious woody accords.

Jasmine impresses us in top notes, thus creating an overture to incense and oud wood dominating the composition.

Selima invites us on a journey through the rich Arabic peninsula by focusing on cornelian as a symbol of peace and abundance, life and wealth. The name Selima means "tranquil and peaceful" in Arabic, and in a calming manner, it builds an oriental-spicy union of flavors and powerful red energy. The composition opens with spicy notes of saffron under which lie lush red roses in a gourmand embrace with date fruit, all resting on warm spices.

BVLGARI LAZULIA perfumer: Daniela (Roche) Andrier jasmine incense oud wood

BVLGARI SELIMA perfumer: Daniela (Roche) Andrier cinnamon rose, date fruit spices Zahira takes us for a hot journey in the golden desert of Arabia. It seduces us with the royal glow of topaz exuding trust, encouragement and charisma, inducing admiration and respect. Zahira means "shiny and luminous" in Arabic, and the fragrance provides radial and fiery floraloriental aromas. The fragrance opens with the warmth and fire of cinnamon, enveloping intoxicating and sweet-exotic flowers of ylangylang. Ylang flowers in the heart radiate like warm, shiny rays of sun over the opulent light of benzoin in the base.

VLGARI ZAHIRA perfumer: Daniela (Roche) Andrier cinnamon ylang-ylang benzoin Beauty & Fashion World | November-December 2015 | 43

EU cosmetics committee approves three ingredients

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he European Commission's Standing Committee on Cosmetics Products has voted to approve the use of zinc oxide as a UV filter, at its meeting on 22 October.

According to the committee, the compound is considered safe to use both in its nano- and non-nano form, and also suitable as an alternative to some UV filters suspected of being endocrine disruptors. Zinc oxide is a physical

sunscreen, which forms a thin film on the skin and reflects sun rays, while other chemical sunscreens penetrate the skin and absorb the UV radiation, so that it does not cause damage.

The committee also voted to approve: potassium hydroxide (KOH), for use in cosmetic products that remove or soften calluses. The use of KOH is already allowed in other types of

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cosmetic products, including cuticle removers and PH regulators; trimethylbenzoyl diphenylphosphine oxide (TPO) as an ingredient in nail modelling products, for professional use. TPO is classified as carcinogenic, mutagenic or reprotoxic (CMR), but was considered safe for use in such products by the Commission's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) (CW 15 April 2014). The substance is

considered to be allergenic, and, therefore, permitted only for use by professionals.

In addition, the meeting voted to officially remove quaternium-15 from the list of authorised preservatives under the cosmetics Regulation. The compound is due to be classified as a CMR and is already banned in cosmetic products.

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10 years of VIVANESS – 10 years of growth in natural cosmetics GERMANY: PIONEER IN NATURAL COSMETICS Worldwide: continuing high demand

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appy Birthday, VIVANESS! The International Trade Fair for Natural Personal Care is celebrating its 10th anniversary. Over the past decade the international natural cosmetics market has developed magnificently. With continual growth of 5 to over 10 % per year, the care products sales figures excluding petro-chemicals and problematical preservatives have left the conventional cosmetics market behind. In Germany over the past decade the market volume for certified cosmetics has even doubled. Not only revelations on critical ingredients in conventional cosmetics have led to increased demand. According to the experts, the main reasons for the natural cosmetics boom lie particularly in their availability today in all retail channels along with increased product diversity coupled with professional performance. The international beauty sector can see this for itself from 10 to 13 February 2016 at the exhibition centre Nuremberg. At the anniversary edition of VIVANESS, 200 exhibitors from around 30 countries are expected.

Germany is the European champion in terms of natural cosmetics. In

2014, with a value of 1.009 billion Euro*, sales exceeded the magic one-billion mark for the first time.

This conclusion was reached by a joint market survey conducted by the Gesellschaft für Konsumforschung (GfK, Society for Consumer Research, Nuremberg, D), Information Resources Germany IRI (Düsseldorf, D), IMS health (Frankfurt, D) and Biovista – Marktforschung für den Bio- und Reformhandel (Market Research for the Organic and Health Food Retail Trade, Ettlingen, D). The retail sales for 2014 were evaluated with all retail channels taken into account.

But there are also indications of clear growth of around 8 % for the first half of 2015. In contrast, the conventional cosmetics market is stagnating and continuing to lose customers to natural cosmetics.

Elfriede Dambacher, owner of the Naturkosmetik Verlag and editor of numerous special publications on the natural cosmetics market, said commenting on the reasons: “Today, consumers decide in a much more (self)-assured way which materials and ingredients they allow to come into contact with their skin, and they are also well informed. Critical reports on

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potentially health-hazardous materials (e.g. hydrocarbons) in conventional cosmetic products, a broad range of natural cosmetics along with the increasing significance of value-oriented consumption are contributing to this positive trend.� Europe: four nations top the cosmetics turnover rankings

In Europe, according to statistics from the European Cosmetics Association (Brussels, B), over 72 billion Euro is spent on cosmetics, in the EU member countries around 69 billion Euro. Germany, France, Great Britain and Italy are among the top consumers: in 2013, at 42.8 billion Euro, these countries already generated over 60 % of cosmetic

sales in the EU. The situation on the natural cosmetics market is similar: Germany has been the leader for years. Here, natural cosmetics has a market share of almost 8 %. Second place is taken by France, where according to Cosmetics Europe, turnover generated in 2013 was around 410 million Euro. That corresponds to a

market share of approx. 5 %. Great Britain occupies third place with an estimated 313 million in sales, followed by Italy with 306 million.

Euro. As a result, these countries account for the lion’s share of natural cosmetics turnover in Europe. But in Austria and Switzerland too, natural cosmetics is booming: in each of these countries

Beauty & Fashion World | November-December 2015 | 51

80 million Euro is spent on natural personal care.

Worldwide: green growth registered According to Amarjit Sahota from English market researchers Organic Monitor (London, GB), the global cosmetics market is also being increasingly driven by the demand for green, natural-state and sustainable care products. The producers of conventional cosmetics are already responding to these developments and are increasingly banking on natural ingredients. Sahota speaks of a positive trend in the global natural cosmetics market. In recent years, global sales of natural cosmetics have risen from 6.5 to over 10 billion US Dollars. Market research company Kline International (New York, USA) is predicting an annual growth rate for the sector of 10 % – including natural-based cosmetics.

For Sahota, the other challenges facing the sector include the competition with natural-based cosmetic brands, which conduct greenwashing, raw materials procurement as well as environmentally-compatible product packaging.

the “Novelties” special show enable a compact overview of the natural cosmetics sector. In addition, Breeze will continue to deliver an inspirational special show for international newcomers and niche brands.

VIVANESS: the international meeting place for the sector The market remains in flux and is faced with major challenges, the experts are agreed on this. Wellfounded specialist presentations on current international developments along the entire value-added chain are being offered by the VIVANESS Congress, which in 2016 will be held for the first time directly in Hall 7A and thus at the heart of the action at VIVANESS, International Trade Fair for Natural Personal Care.

At this event, natural cosmetics manufacturers and producers will be showing tried-and-tested new products as well as innovative raw materials. In 2016, trade visitors will be able to experience young, innovative companies presenting natural cosmetics “made in Germany” in a pavilion at VIVANESS sponsored by the Bundesministerium für Wirtschaft und Energie (BMWI, Federal Ministry for Economic Affairs and Energy).

The Novelty Stand at VIVANESS and 52 | November-December 2015 | Beauty & Fashion World

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