Jan feb2015

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beauty boutique Düsseldorf Accessories for Beauty and Bath

dispensers, nail care and nail styling, manicure and pedicure instruments, cases, shaving, brushes, dispensers, drugstore items, flacons, sponge and cosmetics bags, oils, perfumes, applicator brushes, mirrors, jewellery and leather goods. At BEAUTY DÜSSELDORF trade visitors will be able to tap into useful synergies and view other supplements to their range from the fields of make-up, nail design, skincare, booth technology and also attend interesting specialist lectures from the fields of science and practice.

E

50,000 trade visitors come to this leading international fair for profes-

xclusive Exhibition Area for

concept stores in Germany, Austria

relaxed exchange among profes-

Specialist Retail at BEAUTY

and Switzerland will find a compact

sionals.

sional cosmetics to gather informa-

DÜSSELDORF: Perfumery,

and coherent overview of the

brands in the fields of cosmetics,

Drugstore, Pharmacy, Concept Store

current trends and products for

45 exhibitors and brands in the

27 to 29 March 2015 will see beauty

complementing their cosmetic

beauty and bath accessories

boutique Düsseldorf, an exclusive

range.

segment will be showcasing their

exhibition area for beauty and bath

products. The broad spectrum of

accessories, being held for the first

“The product line-up is concen-

goods includes bath and shower

time. This means manufacturers and

trated on the ever more important

items, skincare products, hand and

retailers of bodycare products and

supplementary ranges for specialist

body lotions, soaps, soap

equipment as well as high quality

cosmetic retail that are generating a

accessories will, for the first time, be

noticeable increase in interest from

given their own location in the

consumers. We are very satisfied

Premium order segment of Hall 10 at

with the level of registrations so far

BEAUTY DÜSSELDORF. Focused on

and are fully booked,” delights

retailers, here buyers exclusively

Director Helmut Winkler. Separate

from perfumeries, drugstores,

registration guarantees a concen-

department stores, pharmacies and

trated sectoral meeting point for

4 |January-February 2015 | Beauty & Fashion World

tion from the 1,400 exhibitors and nail, foot, wellness and spa.



COSMOPROF BOLOGNA 2015: NEW FEATURES FOR THE UPCOMING EDITION.

150 ways to “nourish beauty” the perfect tie-in with Expo Milano 2015

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OSMOPROF 2015 has set itself some ambitious targets. The 48th edition will take place in Bologna - Cosmoprof from 20th-23rd March and Cosmopack from 19th-22nd March – and, more than ever before, will style itself as the quintessential international beauty trade fair, the centre for trends and for information about the global cosmetics world. The exhibition will be celebrating 150 countries taking part in Cosmoprof with the “150 ways to nourish beauty” project, the perfect tie-in with Expo Milano 2015. Encapsulated by the advertising campaign featuring a woman draped in flags, the project will focus particularly on ethnic beauty and on the diverse interpretations of the concept of beauty in different cultures. The event will extend over the entire Bologna fair district and will feature the very best Italian and international businesses, underlining its worldwide prestige and renown. The 24 national collectives from the previous edition will be joined this year by some new participants, including the United Arab Emirates and the Netherlands, offering companies and distributors taking part in the event more business opportunities in the major world markets. Exhibitors taking part in the event will be interested to hear that Cosmoprof is organising the Cosmoprof Road Show, a series of international presentations about the fair, in partnership with chambers of commerce and embassies in various countries. The aim behind this is to revive and maintain the level of

foreign participation year on year, which is essential in order for businesses to meet and grow. This year road shows have been held in South Africa, Qatar-Doha, Germany, Morocco, the USA, Peru and Korea. The International Buyer Programme will have even more to offer this year, involving 25 regions of the world and guaranteeing exhibiting companies direct contact with operators interesting in buying from different countries. A lot of attention will be devoted to innovations in the hair sector. Now in its sixth edition, On Hair will be staging the world’s most eagerly awaited hair show, which will include designers of international renown. Some of the most influential hair designers will be returning to stage spectacular shows and showcase cutting-edge styles on the state-of-the-art catwalks. There will also be plenty of Hair Forum workshops looking at how Italian excellence has achieved great success abroad, with in-person testimonials from eminent figures in the hair sector. Hair Ring, now in its fifth edition, will be organised in partnership with the Camera Italiana dell’Acconciatura (Italian Chamber of Hairdressing) and will see young talents taking their turn on the stage. This will be a perfect launch pad for new designers, who will be able to show Cosmoprof’s international audience their art and creative energy. Initiatives for the beauty sector include a brand-new project dedicated to the “Spa Experience”. The extra exhibition space reserved for this major sector will house an

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“International SPA Symposium”, a forum involving the most influential trade publications and related associations. There will also be workshops and seminars for operators in the perfumery sector, which will focus on the future of the perfumery market in Italy and in the major markets worldwide. There will be special exhibition areas to meet the various business needs of every company. The Extraordinary Gallery, which brings together the most cutting-edge international trends, will be the ideal showcase for launching exclusive products and introducing high-end cosmetics and beauty firms. Spot on Beauty, dedicated to small companies making innovative niche products, will also be back. And for the first time Cosmoprof Bologna 2015 will be hosting the Green Village, a special area inside the pavilion dedicated to companies specialising in natural and organic products. New features for the upcoming edition include the Multi-Cultural Beauty Pavilion. This exhibition area is dedicated to companies making ethnic-specific products, a sector which is showing significant growth within the international economic landscape. There will also be plenty of new features and initiatives at Cosmopack, the “show within the show”. This landmark international event dedicated to the beauty sector’s production chain will open a day ahead of Cosmoprof, giving exhibitors from the packaging sector

an opportunity for networking with the 2,000 or so companies exhibiting finished products at Cosmoprof. The 2015 edition will witness increased participation by businesses from the raw materials and packaging sectors, making Cosmopack the most complete forum for evaluating the condition and the market of the entire cosmetics production chain. Once again in 2015 Cosmoprof will cement its role as the not-to-bemissed event for exploring the future and the trends of the packaging and contract manufacturing world, thanks to the packed programme of Trend Forums and the involvement of the most influential business trend forecasters. Cosmopack Factory will also be returning for the third time. This year it will be dedicated to mascara and will reproduce the product’s entire manufacturing chain. Following the success of the 2014 edition, The Wall Eco-Beauty Edition will reward the most innovative and on-trend products exhibited at the event, with particular emphasis on ecosustainability. COSMOPROF WORLDWIDE BOLOGNA is the leading international B2B event for companies and professional operators in the beauty sector. 207,238 visitors attended the 2014 edition, including 59,319 from abroad. More than 250,000 products were exhibited by 2,450 exhibitors from 69 countries.


10th Convocation Ceremony of JD Institute of Fashion Technology!

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D Institute of Fashion Technol ogy recently celebrated its 10th convocation ceremony for fashion, jewellery and interior students of degree and diploma courses. It was a day of rejoice, of accomplishments, of learning and celebrations. The ceremony was graced with the presence of celebrity designer Mr. Rohit Bal as the chief guest along with Mr. Chandrakant Dalal, Founder and President and Mr. RC Dalal, Executive Director, JD Institute of Fashion Technology. Mr. Bal shared his experience of two and half decades and gave the budding designers insights into the world of design. I wish to be present at every convocation ceremony of jediiians and see them progressing with time. During my mentorship, I have seen some

serious potential among these student designers and I am sure that they will make a mark in the design industry”, said Mr. Rohit Bal. Mr. RC Dalal, Executive Director said, ‘Our aim is to provide an optimum level of exposure to all the students not just at a national platform but on the international map. I wish all my jediiians best of luck for their future and I hope to see more names like Rocky S, Falguni & Shane Peacock, Gaurav Chhabra and Maheka Mirpuri among others making a mark in the world of design’.

converting your imagination into success. It is important to develop and articulate your imagination which is your unique way of looking at the world. That is your single biggest gift. Real achievers work hard at mastering their craft to make their imagination come alive”. The

ceremony came to a conclusion where students were left feeling nostalgic combined with a sense of pride. They were joyous at the opportunities that are to come into their life and yet sad that their journey of college life had come to an end. Thus, it was a day of Happy Goodbyes!

Ending the session on a high note, The President of the institute, Mr. Chandrakant Dalal enlightened the students with his views of being an achiever and said, “I believe all you need is a little imagination and the willingness to work hard at Beauty & Fashion World | January-February 2015 |7


Five new variants of the ProBotanix Range introduced to suit all hair needs

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aaga Professionals, the Salon brand of FMCG conglomerate CavinKare has launched the ProBotanix Hair Care Range that includes 5 new variants designed to cater all hair types. Customers can now experience this range of products across all leading salons in the country. PROBOTANIX RANGE is carefully designed to provide solution for thinning hair, protection to colored hair, Restoring dry and damaged hair, smoothing frizzy hair and effective dandruff remedy. Ingredients for each of the shampoo are individually combined to deliver the best and designed to suit different hair needs and climatic conditions. VOLUME ESSENCE: ProBotanix Volume Essence Range

of shampoos and conditioner is designed to give bounce and volume to thinning/fine hair. Main ingredients such as Green apple extracts and Provitamin B5 complex, with natural polyphenol compounds provide volume and bounce to fine hair. In addition to preventing excessive oil accumulation, Provitamin B5 penetrates the hair shaft and promotes hair growth.

REPAIR & NOURISH: The Repair & Nourish range provides extra health and nutrients to repair dry and damaged hair. Consisting of wheat micro protein, this range works best on hair damaged due to chemical and environmental factors. Wheat protein conditions the hair, and with its moisture retaining properties, greatly improves the softness and shine of hair.

COLOR PROTECT: ANTI-FRIZZ: Color Protect range from ProBotanix provides protection to color treated hair for long-lasting color retention, lasting up to 60 washes. The main ingredient Sunflower, along with silicones and colour protect molecules forms an external photo protective seal around the hair shaft, thereby protecting the hair colour from damaging UV rays.

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The Anti-Frizz range from the ProBotanix Range provides natural shine and life to dry frizzy hair. ProBotanix's Anti-Frizz range of Shampoos and conditioners smoothens the hair root to tip. Shea Butter, being the hero ingredient for this range, is a natural butter that nourishes, softens and protects the

hair while also giving it a healthy shine. The Special Amino-Silicone Blend used in this formula helps in making the hair less porous and increases resistance to damage. ANTI-DANDRUFF: ProBotanix Anti-Dandruff range cleanses and purifies the scalp, ridding of dandruff and scalp-flaking and itching. The anti-fungal and antiseptic properties of Tea-Tree Oil infused in this range helps wash away scalp impurities and vitalizes each strand.

The blend of Menthol also cools the scalp. The Shampoos are available in pack sizes of 1000 ml and 200 ml; the conditioners are available in pack sizes of 350 ml and 1000 ml at all leading salon outlets.



How to Fade a Dark Mark?

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fter your skin is inflamed, a dark mark may be left behind. Find out how to treat spots of hyperpigmentation. When you have acne, an infection, a rash, or some other skin problem, you're probably anxious for it to clear up. Yet even after these complexion woes heal, they may leave a visible reminder that they were once there — a dark mark on your skin. "Dark marks and scars are the result of inflammation and injury to the skin," says Susan Massick, MD, a dermatologist with the Ohio State University Medical Center in Columbus. "This inflammation induces melanocytes, the pigmentproducing cells of the skin, to produce more melanin, which results in darkening in the areas of inflammation. The dermatologic term for this is post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, or PIH."

leave these dark marks," says Dr. Massick. The hyperpigmented scars are not permanent, but they can be slow to fade. In fact, an acne mark may persist for as long as three to six months after the pimple has disappeared.

Older people may also experience dark marks from hyperpigmentation, commonly called liver spots or age spots, but these are related to sun exposure.

If you develop acne marks or other dark spots on your skin, be patient. "Much can improve just with time," says Massick. She also stresses how important it is to avoid a lot of sun exposure because ultraviolet light induces continued melanin production, which can darken skin spots. "I advise patients to be very consistent with sun protection — and with sun avoidance if possible," Massick adds.

Dark Mark: About PIH

Treating Hyperpigmentation

Acne, the most common skin condition, is often to blame for hyperpigmentation. "When an acne pimple or blemish resolves, it can

While over-the-counter (OTC) products with alpha and beta hydroxy acids may help fade hyperpigmentation spots, Massick

10 |January-February 2015 | Beauty & Fashion World

says the ingredient that provides the most benefit is hydroquinone. It’s available in different strengths — a prescription strength of 4 percent and OTC products in the 1 to 2 percent range. Keep in mind that even an OTC hydroquinone product must be used carefully, and you need to follow the instructions. Massick says that the U.S. Food and Drug Administration has considered removing most of the OTC hydroquinone products from store shelves because of safety concerns. Before you use an OTC "fade cream" or other treatment for hyperpigmentation, talk to a dermatologist, who can provide patient safety information and teach you how to properly use the product. A dermatologist may also suggest a prescription strength treatment that is more effective. People may also seek professional

skin treatments to fade dark marks on their skin. However, Massick says that although procedures like a chemical peel or microdermabrasion can help alleviate some skin problems, "some patients may experience PIH from the procedures themselves. I advise patients not to be overly aggressive with pursuing these in the beginning." Properly treating acne will help prevent acne marks from scarring the skin. "If acne isn’t controlled, patients will experience more breakouts, more blemishes, and more PIH," says Massick. Protecting yourself from the sun and working with a dermatologist can further help you prevent and lessen other dark marks on your skin.



Botox Hair Spas -The Revolutionary Hair Spas in India with Stem Cells

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uality Professional products for Salons with an economical price.

Published on 7th Nov, 2014 ,4:00PM With the bridal season in full sway, we find salon owners and stylists opting out for new products and services for their customers to have a different experience than the traditional products and services. But as we are aware, the industry demands more and better products for quality treatments and makeovers. BeautyBazaarpro.com introduces an all-new revolution in traditional hair spas with a non surgical botox option of hair spas for an all new rejuvenation and regenerating the youth of your hair. Advanced Hair

Care through Abril Et Nature- Quality Professional products from Italy.

- It rejuvenates the hair fibre from inside. - Hair fibre recovers the brightness, touch and shine typical of a young hair.

The benefits provided to hair are the result of the synergistic action of the set of active ingredients that make up the line and various actions that unite to render optimum treatment and finish results.

The main action in the Abril Botox treatments is to increase the thickness of the fibre, fill its interior and increase the volume of hair. It also has a rejuvenation effect for a longer period.

Intense stem cells treatment in the leading products are : Cell Innove Gold Lifting Age Reset The presence of extensively researched ingredients is present in all the three products to help develop and improve the health and longevity of hair, and as a result, we obtain a regenerated hair fibre, with a young, healthy and shiny appearance.

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Salons across India have been using and recommending their stylists and technicians to adhere to the all-new treatments of hair spas for better quality results.



2015 sees BEAUTY DĂœSSELDORF enter its 4th Decade >>>> 14 |January-February 2015 | Beauty & Fashion World


“2015 will see BEAUTY DÜSSELDORF, the leading International Trade Fair Cosmetics, Nail, Foot, Wellness and Spa, being held for the 30th time now. With the fair’s comprehensive range, high-quality setting, first-class supporting programme, innovative special themes and varied services BEAUTY is ideally equipped for its 4th decade.”

specialist themes of cosmetics, foot, nail, wellness and spa are arranged coherently in four halls. All companies, special themes and items on the specialist programme can be reached over short distances within the exhibition halls. The carefully designed setting with relaxation zones, cafés and restaurants also makes visiting the trade fair a comfortable affair. Make-Up and Fashion in Focus At the German and International Make-Up Championships BEAUTY looks to tried and tested collaborations with fashion labels and designers.

COMPREHENSIVE RANGE FROM 40 COUNTRIES

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ith 1,400 exhibitors and brands BEAUTY offers the world’s largest range in the sector. On display here will be products, treatments, trends and innovations. Boasting 60,000 square metres of hall space BEAUTY also occupies a pole position. Despite the event’s size the

Outfits for the upcoming competitions will come care of Cologne designer Marion Muck with evening wear focusing on the “Special Event” theme and bridal wear

themed under the heading “Today’s Bride”. Participants will be asked to create sleek, modern and yet still expressive make-up. Furthermore, the fashion show “fashion meets beauty” held daily each afternoon will inform visitors on the current trends for Spring and Summer 2015. ON THE CATWALK OF LIFE The BEAUTY Talk featured at the Meeting Point in 2015 will literally be in “high” spirits when it is host to the famous and popular catwalk coach Jorge González. He is renowned for his extravagant styling and his trademark – high heels. Spending his childhood in Cuba he graduated from studies in nuclear ecology in the Czech Republic to ultimately embark on his unusual career in Hamburg. He will have lots to talk about on this topic and on

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his eventful life on the catwalk of life. HIGHLIGHTS FROM THE NAIL SECTOR Over 30 years ago Silvia Troska recognised the potential of nail design in the USA and back in Germany founded her company alessandro International 25 years ago. Today, alessandro successfully sells high-quality products and care series for hands, nails and feet. For her success story and her commitment Silvia Troska will be presented with the 2015 A Life of Beauty Award. Other famous names from the world of nail design are also expected at the Nail Star Academy that will premiere in 2015. On all three days of the trade fair international speakers will present trends and techniques in line with current international standards in talks lasting 2 hours each. What is special here is

that visitors can join in and therefore test the presented work direct in practice. Here every nail designer has the opportunity to work on the latest trends and professional techniques alongside their idols. INNOVATIONS AND TRENDS Future-oriented trends are promised by the Wellness special show under the heading “Future Spa”. Architecture students from Düsseldorf Polytechnic are currently working on a broad spectrum of design and interiors options for the spa of the future that will be presented at the trade fair. Another highlight in the wellness segment at BEAUTY DÜSSELDORF will prove very innovative. For the first time now the Wellness & Spa Innovation Awards from the German Wellness Association (Deutscher Wellness Verband) will be awarded at the fair. The

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nominated products, treatments, installations and concepts will be showcased in the Innovation Gallery. The Spa Manager of the Year will be selected in the SPA BUSINESS LOUNGE. The ten finalists will also talk about their future-oriented techniques in a panel discussion. DÜSSELDORF OFFERS MORE Düsseldorf is the beauty capital of Germany. This is where the most cosmetic studios and hairdressing salons are located respective to the number of inhabitants. This is also where numerous cosmetics manufacturers and distributions firms have their company headquarters. Düsseldorf is also a city easy to get around in. Offering a range of brands and stores rivalling the major metropolises but in a central and compact location, the city centre can be reached from the airport in

just ten minutes. It also only takes ten minutes to get from the airport to the exhibition centre while the main railway station is reachable in 15 minutes. An annual 50,000 trade visitors come to Düsseldorf to explore the city and find out about the latest developments in the beauty sector. Alongside visiting BEAUTY the make-up artist design show and the TOP HAIR Trend & Fashion Days, also running on 28 and 29 March 2015, offer insights into the art of make-up and hairdressing. For further information go to www.beauty.de


Epique Premium Skin Care Now in India

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ow to tackle the frighteningly large number of skincare woes that come with turning 30, the Internationally-acclaimed beauty brand Epique (owned by the 75 year old Alchem International) has launched a premium skincare range designed specifically for mature skin. Alchem International are pioneers in the field of phytochemicals thus, what sets Epique's range apart from its contemporaries, is its ample inclusion of 'Phyto-Concentrates' in its products. These 'Phyto-Concentrates' have been developed after extensive research by EpiqueLabs in Switzerland and are basically just concentrated molecular extracts of medicinal plants and herbs from around the globe. These skin-loving natural derivatives much to our relief are hugely beneficial for reversing the dreaded aging process - they act on an intra-cellular level and are able to enhance the skin’s ability to heal, regenerate and restore its beauty from within. Moreover, the presence of these 'Phyto-Concentrates' in Epique products are also the sole reason why their entire collection is able to be so big on efficacy without being hard on the skin. Also, several rigorous clinical trials and testing of each formulation have ensured that the Epique range maintains global safety and quality benchmarks which have in turned earned the brand several long term collaborations with leading pharmaceutical, cosmetic and nutraceutical brands from across the globe. Epique products are available at the brand's boutiques, which are located in some of the most premium locations in New Delhi. The Epique outlet at Ambience Mall, Vasant Kunj is the brand's flagship store and has been purposefully designed in a minimalistic, understated chic fashion to appeal to its target customer - the intelligent, sophisticated woman of the world. Also, well-trained skincare experts have also been posted at all of the Epique stores. The experts, after conducting a careful analysis of each customer's skin (using cutting edge testing technology of course!) recommend to them products which are best suited to their individual needs. The almost miraculous skincare range includes intensive revitalising eye cream, intensive regenerating night cream, advanced balancing day cream, active regenerating day cream, oil-free cleansing & make-up remover wipes, advanced UV protection cream, intensive luminescence cream and sculpting and firming cream. Regular and early use of these products will result in healthy glowing skin which is unaffected by time. Products are available in elegant silver and white 15ml and 50ml user-friendly bottles and are priced in the Rs. 2500 – Rs. 4000 range. Beauty & Fashion World | January-February 2015 |17


show|repor t

BEAUTY FORUM MUNICH 2014 on the road to success

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arlsruhe/Munich 28th October 2014 – On Sunday night, the 29th BEAUTY FORUM MUNICH ended after two very successful days. This year saw an increase in visitors of 5% which confirmed the trade fair’s position as most important European professional beauty trade fair in autumn. The exhibiting firms were impressed with the consistently outstanding quantity and quality of visitors, many new contacts and satisfactory sales.

Bianca Heinike, Europe’s most successful YouTube beauty blogger, accredited themselves and were filming on both days. Moreover, the trade fair was visited by over 70 media representatives from prominent national and international publica-

Our target of 40,000 visitors was considerably surpassed, despite the beginning of the school holidays in various regions and the portion of international visitors increased to over 20%. In the advance sale, visitors from over 35 countries had already purchased tickets. The international visitors came from almost all European nations, Scandinavia and the Middle East but also from the US and Japan. The organizer’s internationalization strategy is clearly illustrated by the number and origin of the international visitors. With regards to the exhibitors at the BEAUTY FORUM MUNICH 2014, this year’s trade fair boasted 880 national and international firms and brands, an increase from last year (850). This made for an even greater variety and quality of offers in all areas of professional and selective cosmetics, nail, foot care and podiatry which filled the 35,000 sqm of exhibition area. The portion of international firms increased by over 20% and the number of nations presented by these firms rose from 17 in 2013 to 20. A noteworthy aspect this year was the extraordinarily large media response to the trade fair. In total, 6 TV production teams, including RTL exclusive and ProSieben taff! with 18 |January-February 2015 | Beauty & Fashion World

tions, beauty and lifestyle blogs and online media. BEAUTY FORUM Connect In concordance with the challenges associated with becoming a pioneer in the industry, organizers of the BEAUTY FORUM MUNICH, Health

“Noticeable increase in visitors/ satisfied exhibitors/ huge media interest”


show|repor t and Beauty Germany GmbH, developed a new concept surrounding the classic trade fair areas of decorative, apparative and grooming cosmetics, nail art and nail design, nail care and medical foot care and podiatry. BEAUTY FORUM Connect, an offer accompanying the trade fair, forms a platform which encourages national and international B2B business and subsequent contacts between exhibitors and potential business partners. In the ‘Matching Area’ in hall C3, countless promising conversations between producers, importers and potential distributors took place. Practical knowledge transfer An important component of the BEAUTY FORUM MUNICH is the IFC – International Forum of Cosmetics. This year 26 workshops were offered, focused in various forums, and over 650 professionals were able to educate and inform themselves further on current topics. The forums were divided into the following themes; business, cosmetics, style, wellness, nail, medical beauty, foot, trends and student. The most popular workshops were the style workshop by Horst Kirchberger, the medical beauty workshops and the nail workshops. An annual attraction for further education for those in the foot care industry is the Foot Forum at the Foot Point in hall C2 which is organized together with the ZFD (association for foot care and podiatry). Diabetic foot complications were this year’s focal theme and were discussed through innovative presentations at the Foot Point. Shows and Entertainment Star makeup artist Horst Kirchberger, master of his field, who usually styles celebrities, entertained a thrilled audience at the Beauty Point in hall C3 on Saturday with his show ‘Fashion meets Classic’ demonstrating simple and effective looks. Styling expert Astrid Rudolph Beauty & Fashion World | January-February 2015 |19


show|repor t (‘Schick und schön”, ZDF) transformed the Beauty Point into a glamorous stage. In her makeover show, she helped three candidates achieve a completely new look, including a new wardrobe, great hairstyle and fitting makeup. Fashion label Marcell von Berlin was on hand to provide incredible pieces from his current collection. Forecast for 2015 The next BEAUTY FORUM MUNICH, which will take place on the 17th and 18th October 2015, will be a celebration of the trade fair’s 30 year anniversary. This date is considerably before the start of the autumn school holidays and the organizer predicts that, due to this change, there will be a further increase in visitors. Exhibitor’s impressions Michael Ladwig, Managing Director, Gustav Baehr GmbH ‘The BEAUTY FORUM MUNICH is the most important trade fair in the south of Germany. As ever, in 2014 we were very impressed with the trade fair and the organization. We were able to welcome and receive many new clients at out stand and were happy to see our regular customers again. The trade fair was definitely worth it again this year.’ Klaus Albracht, Sales Manager, Catherine Nail Collection ‘In the 35th anniversary year of the Catherine Nail Collection, we are glad to include the BEAUTY FORUM MUNICH as another highlight of this year. Many new clients, very interesting conversations, new contacts and satisfactory sales were the outcomes this year. All product news and ideas of the Catherine Nail Collection were extremely wellreceived by the trade fair visitors. The presentation of our new fashion ‘Catherine Lifestyle’-powered by Marcell von Berlin- at the Beauty Point was also greeted with much enthusiasm. We are very much looking forward to the next BEAUTY FORUM trade fair in Munich in 2015.’ Sascha Lehna, Head of Marketing,

Methode Brigitte Kettner GmbH ‘A huge thank you to the BEAUTY FORUM MUNICH team! This year, the BEAUTY FORUM MUNICH was not only a great success for our company, but also a joy to be able to have taken part. Every year, the BEAUTY FORUM team does everything to ensure the preparation phase was as smooth

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and effortless as possible. A noticeable increase in visitors at our stand, many interested customers and a high level of quality of conversation made this year’s BEAUTY FORUM MUNICH a big success, one we hope to repeat next year.’ Michael Kalow, Owner and

Managing Director, Wilde Cosmetics GmbH ‘We found the increase in visitors on the first day had a very positive impact which means that the BEAUTY FORUM MUNICH is far ahead in the field. We were also very impressed with the quality of visitors and are very happy with the outcome.’


show|repor t Henryk Foltnek, Owner, LUXUSLASHES GmbH ‘The BEAUTY FORUM MUNICH was a great success for LUXUSLASHES. RTL Exclusive filmed at our stand for three hours with Claudia Effenberg and we welcomed several Austrian visitors. We are looking forward to next year.’ Pascal Feyh, Managing Director, MAHA Cosmetics and Beautycare ‘The BEAUTY FORUM MUNICH is definitely one of the most important trade fairs of the year for us. The public was well-prepared and clearly treasured our premium CND, essie and Tolure products. The number of visitors was also very pleasing. Overall, we reached a satisfactory outcome.’ Vera Meyer, Director, BCG BadenBaden Cosmetics Group AG ‘We gained many new contacts, experienced a great influx of visitors and enjoyed several high-quality conversations. Working with the BEAUTY FORUM team was simply perfect and our first participation in the trade fair was very good. Thank you for a great and successful trade fair!’

on Saturday, 25th October 2014 1) 27. International Master Award Make up. “Catwalk Look - Inspiration vom Laufsteg” 1. Platz: Anna-Maria Liapi (Argiroupoly / Athens, Greece) 2. Platz: Karolina Zientek (Bytom, Poland) 2. Platz: Dominique Roberts (Érsekvadkert, Hungary) 3. Platz: Valérie Caminada (Zürich, Switzerland) 2) 27. European Masters Award Nail Design Kategorie Sculpturing : 1. Platz: Nikoletta Assenbrenner (Budapest, Hungary) 2. Platz: Jessica Ström (Strömstad, Sweden) 3. Platz: Beatrice Löffler (Beinwil am See, Switzerland) Kategorie Tip/Overlay 1. Platz: Mercédesz Kis (Budapest, Hungary) 2. Platz: Jan Zimmermann (Konstanz, Germany) 3. Platz: Olga Schneider (Au / St. Gallen, Switzerland) 3) 9th Bodypainting Trophy "Alte Meister der bildenden Künste" 1. Platz: Johannes Stötter (Italy) , (Model: Andrea Leichtfried)

2. Platz: Sophie Fauquet (France), (Model: George Lise) 3. Platz: Sonja Wiesendanger (Austria), (Model: Carmen Wiesendanger) Die Sieger der Meisterschaften vom Sonntag, 26.10.2014 4) 28. Deutsche Make-up Meisterschaft "The Golden 20s" 1. Platz: Ennie Hafemann (Berlin, Germany) 2. Platz: Heike Steinmaßl (Laufen, Germany) 3. Platz: Susanne Brietzke (Frankfurt (Oder), Germany) 3. Platz: Nataliya Podolska (München, Germany) 5) Worldskills Germany Kosmetik (Organizer: Dermalogica und WorldSkills Germany e.V.) 1. Platz: Leona König, SKIN 8 (Münzenberg /Hessen, Germany) 6) 2nd International German Lashes Trophy "Natural Dream Lashes" 1. Platz: Stefanie Pöschl (Stuttgart, Germany) 2. Platz: Sonja Bogesch (Böblingen, Germany) 3. Platz: Fortunata Hegner (Eislingen,

Germany) 7) 6th WorldCup Nail Art “Vintage Style” Kategorie Flat 1. Platz: Ekaterina Goette (Balsthal, Switzerland) 2. Platz: Inge Squillace (Italy) 3. Platz: Gergelyne Biro (Nittendorf, Germany) Kategorie 3D 1. Platz: Edit Tóth (Hortobágy, Hungary) 2. Platz: Denisa Duksová Pýchová (Kolin, Czechia) 3. Platz: Robert Klonowski (Gdansk, Poland) The next beauty trade fair in Germany is the 5th BEAUTY FORUM LEIPZIG on the 25th – 26th April 2015 at the town and fair ground of Leipzig (www.beauty-fairs.de/leipzig). About the organizer Health and Beauty Germany GmbH has its holding in Karlsruhe and is a leading organizer for beauty trade fairs, licensor and developer of new, successful trade fair concepts which are used in several countries. www.beauty-fairs.com | www.beauty-forum.com

Ingrid Bregenzer & Helga Strillinger, Managing Directors, SC Cosmetics Handels GmbH ‘First of all we want to say THANK YOU! Thank you to all the visitors whom we had the pleasure of welcoming at our Swiss Color stand. Every year we look forward to greeting loyal clients as well as meeting new customers over the course of the weekend. We also want to thank everyone who gave us feedback which helps us to further develop and thrive. A special thank you goes to our extraordinary and motivated team. It is such a pleasure to work with such an experienced and well-prepared team. This includes our Swiss Color Trainer, who is responsible for further training in the permanent make up field, as well as the sales and office team. Thank you for all your efforts, they have paid off and we will be back next year!’ The winners of the championships Beauty & Fashion World | January-February 2015 |21


Clariant Launches GlucoTain®, a Range of Sugar-based Surfactants for Skin & Hair Care

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lariant launches its innovative new range of sugar-based surfactants, GlucoTain® with pleasing sensorial effects, outstanding mildness and very good cleaning performance for skin and hair. GlucoTain surfactants minimize traditional formulation trade-offs by combining new sensorial experiences for consumers with new opportunities for formulation innovation and sustainability. The innovative sugar-based surfactants indulge the senses through a range of individual foam structures – from fluffy to rich – and light to caring conditioning levels for skin and hair. The renewable surfactant range, based on glucose and natural oils, embraces mildness without compromising on cleansing. Importantly, it creates new possibilities for formulators to go the next step in developing innovative products and platforms based on sulfate-free, Cocamidopropylbetaine- free (CAPB-free) and betaine-free formulations for a wide range of applications. GlucoTain Ethylene Oxide (EO)-free and sulfate-free ingredients are readily biodegradable products with a 94-95 % RCI (Renewable Carbon Index), a high content of non-tropical biomass, and a good ecotox profile.

provides an ideal solution for refreshing, vitalizing shower products, hand wash and 2-in-1 shower and hair products. GlucoTain Clean – feel the mild side of deep cleansing. Clariant’s deep cleanser with an emphasis on mildness. With its creamy and fine foam, it leaves the skin with a pleasant, squeaky clean skin after feel. GlucoTain Clean is especially suitable for oily skin and works best in facial cleansers and make-up removers as well as anti-oil and antidandruff shampoos. GlucoTain Care – feel the pleasure of indulgence. This is the most tender surfactant in Clariant’s surfactant family. It has a rich and creamy foam, that still remains easy to rinse off and leaves a gently conditioned and moisturized after feel. GlucoTain Care is excellent for use on dry, damaged and sensitive hair and skin. Due to its sensory profile it is recommended for conditioning, repair and baby shampoos as well as pampering facial cleansers.

GlucoTain is available in four products to suit formulators’ requirements, all offering excellent compatibility with other ingredients.

GlucoTain Flex – feel the freedom of flexibility. Clariant’s versatile solution offering freedom when formulating, and supporting the development of sulfate-free and CAPB-free formulations. With its creamy foam, it leaves a smooth, nourished after feel and provides excellent color protection. Especially suitable for fine, damaged and colored hair, GlucoTain Flex is recommended for anti-ageing and color protecting shampoos.

GlucoTain Clear – feel the boost of freshness. Clariant’s EO-free - and Polyethylene glycol-free (PEG-free) option for a fresh and light solubilizer for fragrances for all kinds of products. This surfactant offers formulations a boost through light and fluffy foam, easy rinse-off and a squeaky-clean skin feel. Suitable for all skin types, GlucoTain Clear

"GlucoTain represents a major step forward in Clariant’s pursuit of innovative sensory solutions and reaches a new dimension. GlucoTain is among the mildest range of surfactants available to formulators. Extremely mild to both proteins and lipid layers, it answers consumers’ desire for more skin-friendly products and their preference for

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natural ingredients that do not compromise on cleansing properties," comments Peter Klug, Strategic Innovation Project Manager, Clariant. Clariant’s decision to choose GlucoTain for its first global product launch in Asia reflects its commitment to the region and to offering innovative sensorial solutions.



DSM ANNOUNCES FULL COMPLIANCE

with Latest SCCS Opinions for its PARSOL® TX Nano UV Filter

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irst in the personal care industry, DSM has announced that PARSOL® TX fully complies with all new specifications listed in the SCCS Opinions. Earlier this year, the Scientific Committee for Consumer Safety (SCCS) assessed the use of titanium dioxide in its nano form, and concluded that it is safe to use as a UV filter in cosmetic products for dermal application when it fulfills the characteristics specified by the SCCS. According to the SCCS opinion, a purity of =99% in rutile form and a photocatalytic activity of less than 10% in nano form (compared to the corresponding non-coated or non-doped references) are among the main requirements that confirm the product's stability and safety.

properties of sunscreens. As confirmed by the proprietary consumer and market research learnings, a negative sensory experience is the major drawback of the usage and re-purchase of sunscreens.

ties, it offers unrivalled flexibility across a wide range of sun- and skin-care product formulations including make-up products and the latest additions in the personal care market’s BB and CC cream formulations.

PARSOL® TX’s hydrophobic coating strongly contributes to its aesthetic appeal in formulation, and in particular, to its pleasing, sensory feel. Due to its formulation proper-

PARSOL® TX sensory benefits are fully demonstrated in DSM’s latest, holistic, UV-protection solutions such as “Bare Skin Feel” – an outstanding and desirable SPF 50+

PARSOL® TX is an aluminum-free, inorganic UV filter, made of 100% pure rutile form. Due to its unique, very tight, double-coating, it has an excellent photo-stability and an outstanding compatibility with other UV-filters such as Avobenzone, and also with acrylate thickeners as well as other challenging ingredients such as ascorbyl palmitate and the self-tanner, dihydroxyacetone. Some of its distinct compatibility features are outlined in DSM patents. As one of the leading sun care players, DSM Personal Care invests in the improvement of the sensorial 24 |January-February 2015 | Beauty & Fashion World

sunscreen. Aline Hueber, Global Marketing Manager Sun Care at DSM, comments: "We are excited about this positive development for nano grades of Titanium Dioxide. We are pleased to see that its tangible benefits over conventional titanium dioxide, for both consumers and customers, are confirmed by the growth of the product over recent years. The highest quality of PARSOL® TX is a perfect example of our commitment and focus on delivering safe, effective and pleasant products to the market that truly serve the needs of consumers." About DSM Royal DSM is a global science-based company active in health, nutrition and materials. By connecting its unique competences in Life Sciences and Materials Sciences DSM is driving economic prosperity, environmental progress and social advances to create sustainable value for all stakeholders simultaneously. DSM delivers innovative solutions that nourish, protect and improve performance in global markets such as food and dietary supplements, personal care, feed, medical devices, automotive, paints, electrical and electronics, life protection, alternative energy and bio-based materials. DSM’s 24,500 employees deliver annual net sales of around €10 billion.



Rejuva Minerals Launches MASCARA & PRESSED POWDER FOUNDATION FREE OF COMMON IRRITANTS

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ejuva Minerals has announced the launch of two new products: Water Resistant Mega Lash Lengthening & Thickening Mascara and Natural Look Pressed Powder Foundation. In keeping with Rejuva’s philosophy, both the mascara and pressed powder compacts are free of common irritants like mica, bismuth oxychloride and titanium dioxide and are made in the USA. Rejuva Minerals’ Water Resistant Mega Lash Mascara comes in midnight black and is clump, flake and smudge resistant. The proprietary formula is vegan, natural, organic and free of soy, parabens and gluten as well as non-GMO. It’s also shipped in boxes made from 50% recycled material. The mascara can be removed with warm water.

Perfect for all skin types, it won’t dry out skin or settle in lines or pores. These new pressed powders are colored with minerals and are enhanced with organic fruits and botanicals. They are also infused with conditioning jojoba oil and loaded with antioxidants from fruits and berries. The compacts are made from plant materials, which mean they’re biodegradable. They are also OGM, BPA and phthalate free. They’re available in trial and full size. “The new Water Resistant Mega Lash

Rejuva’s Natural Look Pressed Powder Foundation comes in 10 new shades including St. Tropez and Bahama Mama that can double as bronzers or contour shades. Each was inspired by the beautiful beaches in Florida and the Tropical Islands. The powder is silky smooth and has a natural, semi-matte finish. 26 |January-February 2015 | Beauty & Fashion World

Mascara and Natural Look Pressed Powder Foundation are both in line with Rejuva Mineral’s philosophy of creating all natural products,” said Brenda Hyre, Founder of Rejuva. “Our customers, including Hollywood stars, rely on us to create great make-up that’s good for your skin.” Rejuva’s commitment to creating high quality, natural beauty products has the brand gaining popularity around the world, including Hollywood. About Rejuva Minerals Brenda Hyre started Rejuva Minerals in 2006. Brenda struggled for years to find makeup that wouldn’t irritate her sensitive skin. She formed Rejuva Minerals with the belief that quality makeup should work with the body, not against it. All Rejuva Minerals products have a low toxicity rating at the popular EWG Skin Deep database.



WACKER Presents Antioxidant & Silicone Elastomer Gel for Cosmetics BELSIL® EG 2, another WACKER highlight during the show, is a newly developed silicone elastomer gel. It improves the sensoric properties of skin care and make up formulations significantly, imparting a smoother and suppler feeling to the skin. BELSIL® EG 2 also has a thixotropic effect. When applied to the skin, its viscosity drops which makes the distribution of skin care products and decorative cosmetics much easier. The gel also improves the water resistance of cosmetic products. It is compatible with a wide range of cosmetic ingredients and therefore offers maximum formulation flexibility.

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t in-cosmetics Asia 2014, WACKER is presented several novelties for the cosmetic industry. Among them is nature-identical hydroxytyrosol, marketed under the brand name HTEssence®, and BELSIL® EG 2, a new silicone elastomer gel for skin care and decorative cosmetics. Hydroxytyrosol, a highly effective antioxidant, acts as a free-radical scavenger and can reduce skin aging and dark pigmentation. Due to WACKER’s new patented process, the ingredient is now available as a nature-identical substance of much greater purity, free of unwanted byproducts, and with a defined amount of active ingredient. The new silicone elastomer gel BELSIL® EG 2 was developed for skin care and make up formulations. The gel improves spreadability and skin feel, making the skin smooth and supple. Hydroxytyrosol, a secondary plant metabolite, is considered a highly effective antioxidant and free radical scavenger with an ORAC value (oxygen radical absorbance capacity) of 4,500,000 µmolTE1 per 100g – ten times higher than green tea and over twice as high as coenzyme Q10. In human cells, hydroxytyrosol influences the

melanin pigments, so that the skin becomes lighter and dark patches disappear. It can also prevent wrinkle formation and skin aging. Due to these modes of action, hydroxytyrosol is a popular ingredient in cosmetics. One drawback, until recently, was the way it was produced. In nature, hydroxytyrosol is found in olives and olive leaves and its extraction is complex and cost-intensive. But now, WACKER has developed a novel process to fully synthesize this compound. Its new product, HTEssence®, features markedly higher purity with a defined amount of active ingredient. The controlled production process not only offers supply security, but also ensures that HTEssence® does not contain any unwanted byproducts or contaminants. As a result, HTEssence® is free of allergens and pesticides. Available as an odorless, water-soluble powder and liquid, the product is suitable for use not only in skin lightening cosmetics and anti-aging products, but also on functional dietary supplements. Improved Skin Feel: Silicone Elastomer Gel BELSIL® EG 2

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Two other products will play center stage at in cosmetics: the aminofunctional silicone emulsion BELSIL® ADM 9000 E and the caprylyl dimethicone ethoxy glucoside BELSIL® WO 5000.

BELSIL® ADM 9000 E, a macroemulsion for hair care products targeting medium to strongly damaged hair, shows an effective reduction of dry and wet combing forces thus avoiding mechanical damage. The silicone emulsion provides a soft and silky hair feel. The product especially caters to hair care products such as shampoos, rinse-off conditioners, hair masks, and serums as well as mousse formulations. BELSIL® WO 5000 was especially developed for water-in-oil and water-in-silicone formulations. The product uses a natural sugarbased component, which produces a mild water-in-oil emulsifier. BELSIL® WO 5000 is deal for formulating skincare and suncare products as well as decorative cosmetics.



How to lose weight at home exercises, yoga and diet tips >>> 30 |January-February 2015 | Beauty & Fashion World


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here are various hurdles to losing weight. Some of us don’t have the motivation, the information or the right attitude. It’s not possible for everyone to juggle work and home-life and make room for exercising or dieting. But it’s a common myth that weight loss needs you to join a gym or follow a strict diet. Anyone can lose weight anywhere without putting in too much effort. All you need to do is follow a proper diet and exercise properly. Remember, ignore either your diet or exercise and the plan won’t work. They are essentially two sides of the same coin. Here’s the ultimate plan to lose weight without stepping out of your home!

CUT DOWN ON SATURATED FATS: Saturated fats are the kind found in all the junk food that you eat every day and are essentially responsible for the rising obesity cases in the world. You’d do well to avoid foods like biscuits, bhujias, burgers, butter, chocolate, cheese, oil, processed meats and other junk foods which are high in them. CUT DOWN ON SUGAR: One of the primary reasons for the obesity pandemic is the high amount of sugar we consume. It’s present in every single item we love — candies, chocolates, cold drinks, spreads, jams, ice-creams and pretty much everything you like.

have potato mixed with other vegetables and use less of oil/ghee/ butter. Similarly, if you are from southern India, you can have idlis, dosa, uttappa but avoid medu wada since that is fried. You can even opt for egg omelette or sandwiches. Lunch: This can consist of a proper meal like rotis/ bhakri with vegetables, salads and a source of protein from dal/curd/ sprouts/ nonveg dishes like eggs, fish, chicken plus a small helping of rice. Avoid pickles and papads. Snacks: This can be mixed dry fruits, seasonal fruits or any fruit you like or a handful of roasted channa or kurmuras.

DIET FOR WEIGHT LOSS The problem is that we make many basic mistakes while eating every day which results in our weight gain. We make the unhealthier option without even knowing it. For example, even the food items you find on the supermarket aisle which promises to help you lose weight are actually unhealthy for you. Some basic general tips you need to keep in mind when you’re trying to lose weight are: DON’T GO ON A CRASH DIET: While crash diets or eating very less might give you some benefits for a while, the weight you’ve lost will simply return in a few days when you return to your normal dietary habits. EAT MORE FIBRE: This will help you stay fit because normally as it doesn’t have a lot of calories. It also makes you feel fuller, slowing down your digestion. It also prevents absorption of fat in the digestive system. STAY HYDRATED: Drinking water is another important aspect of weight loss. You should drink 2 litres of water every day (that’s not a lot).

KEEP TRACK OF WHAT YOU EAT: Another reason we tend to eat more than required is don’t often count the snacks we have inbetween meals or even the meals we’re eating. What we can do plan out your meals properly so that you don’t end up eating junk food. You can even calculate the number of calories you consume in a day with an app like HealthifyMe (which has a widget on TheHealthSite.com) which has in its database the calorie count of every dish under the sun, including Indian ones. AVOID ALCOHOL: ‘Alcohol, even antioxidant-rich red wine, has calories that do nothing to fuel your workouts and fuel only the fat deposits around your waist. Studies have shown that alcohol can increase cortisol levels, which promote fat gain, especially in the abdominal region— which should definitely be avoided when you are looking to trim down and show off a six-pack.’ Breakfast: Start your day with milk and cornflakes, or milk and poha/ upma. If you are from northern India, and are into eating parathas, you can still have them but make them healthy. Instead of just aloo paratha

Dinner: Preferably opt for an early dinner and it can be just like lunch or it can be a single wholesome meal like khicdhi, pulav, briyani. Another important aspect of weight loss is exercise. Here are some you can do at home: Push up: The push-up is a complete exercise that targets your chest, abs, arms and shoulder – pretty much every upper body muscle. Specifically, the muscles the exercise targets are the abdominal muscles, the pectorals, the deltoids and the triceps. How exclusively each muscle is targeted will depend on the variation of the push-up you’re going to do. Read how to do a proper push-up. Dips: The bench dip is another great bodyweight exercise for beginners. All you need is a chair. It works your triceps. Read how to do dips properly. Squats: The squat is considered to be the ultimate lower body exercise. When done with weights it targets the muscles of thighs, hips, buttocks, quads and hamstrings. Not only are they great for your muscles but they also help

strengthen your bones, ligaments and tendons throughout the lower body. Read how to do a proper squat. Sit-ups: The sit-up has become a bit obsolete now thanks to the abdominal crunch which people believe are more effective in getting flat abs. The truth is that the sit-up is a very effective exercise as well and it works on more muscles than the abs crunch. Jumping Jacks: A warm-up exercise, this total body exercise makes you ready for the intense workout that is to follow in the next few minutes. Jumping jacks are performed by moving both your hands parallel to the ground and jumping simultaneously. The hands must be brought down when the jump is complete. This is to be repeated for 30 seconds after which you can take a 10-second rest. Plank: The plank is one of the most popular exercises for core conditioning and it will help build resistance in the abdominal area. The great thing is it requires no additional equipment except for your bodyweight. Get down in a prone position on the floor similar to the way you’d do for a push-up. Instead of your palms, use your forearms to support your weight. Make sure your arms are bent and below the shoulders. Keep your back straight and hold this position as long as possible. Try and do at least three sets of 30 seconds each. Leg Raise: The leg raise is another no-frills floor exercise that’s great for your abdomen and obliques. Simply lie down flat on your back and bend your knees. Slowly lift up your legs from your hips and bring your knees level with your chest while keeping your soles upward. Bring your leg back to the starting position but keep in mind that it shouldn’t touch the floor. Repeat this movement 20 times and do three times.

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Evonik Unveils SIPERNAT® Specialty Silica to Replace PE & PP Exfoliants in Peeling Products

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vonik Industries launches two new products to replace microplastics in peeling products: the specialty silica SIPERNAT® 2200 PC and SIPERNAT® 22 PC. A number of prominent international cosmetics companies already use the new specialty silica products in shower gels, facial care and body peeling products based on the prototypes released by Evonik in late 2013. SIPERNAT® 2200 PC and SIPERNAT® 22 PC are listed as nature-identical by the International Natural and Organic Cosmetics Association (NATRUE), a globally active association for the promotion of natural skin care. This means the substance (in this case, silica or SiO2) is already found naturally, but is not usually available in the required purity. Cosmetic products have very high purity standards. Although synthetic amorphous silica is identical to naturally occurring silica

(such as sand) in chemical terms, its purity is significantly higher than natural silica due to the technical production process at Evonik. In the past, cosmetic peeling products frequently contained microscopically small particles of polyethylene and polypropylene. "All leading manufacturers of cosmetics and body care products are currently working to replace abrasive microplastics particles," explains Andreas Fischer, the head of the Silica Business Line of the Evonik Resource Efficiency Segment. The background of this trend is the public debate about oceanic pollution caused by microplastics. In addition to plastic waste as the main cause, the discussion has also brought up synthetic particles in cosmetics. "The specialty silica SIPERNAT® with its high purity level is an ideal solution because it fully meets the

requirements for abrasive particles," notes Fischer. Compared to other replacement substances for polyethylene, the specialty silica SIPERNAT® also represents a viable economic alternative. The production at the industrial scale ensures economic, worldwide availability. At the same time, customers benefit from Evonik's decades of production and process experience as well as from the specific properties of SIPERNAT®, which can be quickly and easily integrated into the corresponding applications. Evonik offers two different variants for manufacturers of cosmetics: SIPERNAT® 2200 PC features cleansing particles with a size of approx. 320 µm, while the particle size in SIPERNAT® 22 PC is approx. 120 µm. Both products have a microsponge structure. In addition to providing a cleansing function,

this unique structure offers a major advantage over other microplastic replacements: silica can absorb liquid active ingredients and scents and carry them for release at a desired point – such as the application of a skin care product. The specialty chemicals company produces SIPERNAT® PC grades in Europe; an expansion of the production to Asia and North America is in the planning stage. Uniform specifications and strict microbiological controls ensure that every customer is supplied reliably with consistently high quality. Fischer: "Evonik has been a reliable partner of the cosmetics industry for a long time, and our silica are used in many other life science products and pharmaceuticals. We are pleased to again offer new and innovative products to our customers with the two new SIPERNAT® PC grades.”

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Our happy flower collection upcoming spring-/ summer 2015 is becoming bloomy-fresh! Colour combinations mirror the awakening attitude to life which one can feel with the first mild sunrays coming out. Simple, but bold colours of the nature will be discovered new. A cool shade of blue, fresh lemon-yellow, bright orange, soothing peach – nude or gaudy shades of pink and red. Are you keen for sun and fun? Show your colours and spread summer mood! Contact: Tel. +1149 (0) 6051-92260, www.akzent-direct-gmbh.com

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DERMALOGICA LAUNCHES FIRST CHEMICAL PEEL AT KORUM SALON New BioSurface™ Peel, for Professionals Only

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rofessional skin therapists now have a new level of service to offer clients in the form of BioSurface™ Peel, Dermalogica’s first-ever chemical peel, exclusively formulated for use in skin care centers and spas around the world. This revolutionary product was launched at Korum Salon, GK Part 1a premium salon which provides one-stop solution for all your personal hair and beauty needs. This revolutionary four-step exfoliate system is the first range of products to be introduced within Professional Expert Strength, a new line of professional products only available to licensed skin therapists. BioSurface Peel addresses a diverse array of conditions that include reducing skin roughness and the appearance of fine lines as well as helping to treat hyperpigmentation, pseudofolliculitis (razor bumps), and acneic inflammation. This new procedure offers the many benefits of traditional chemical peels, but with little to no post-peel redness or downtime—a huge advantage for consumers. “Today’s woman is time-deprived, but still cares greatly about her skin health and wants results,” comments Diana Howard, VP of Research and Development and Global Education for Dermalogica and The International Dermal Institute. “Since Dermalogica launched more than 25 years ago, its mission has always been to set the

industry standard and provide its tribe of professional skin therapists with the most cutting edge products and treatments so they are best equipped to meet the demands of today’s consumers. New BioSurface™ Peel will provide consumers with the results they desire without any recovery downtime.” Speaking at the launch Mr. Karan Vohra, Director, Korum Salon said, “We are delighted to partner with Dermalogica for the launch. We at Korum Salon believe in giving our clients best and world- class treatments for their skin and hair needs. Our patrons are loyal to the brand and extremely happy with the Dermalogica results. Our staff has undergone an exhaustive training to be qualified to perform this treatment. We are confident that BioSurface™ Peel treatment will work very well for the Indian skin.”

3). As a keratolytic agent, Salicylic Acid causes weakening of cell connections allowing for sloughing of skin cells. Combined with a low pH, keratin bonds are loosened, creating a burst of exfoliation, which addresses signs of aging and hyperpigmentation. The Enzyme Active(-) (Step 2) delivers an 72.5% total enzyme solution utilizing Pumpkin Fruit enzymes with Papain, Protease and Aminopeptidase enzymes. In addition, Moth Bean Extract offers a gentle, botanical alternative to synthetic retinoids, while offering similar effects.

The application process for BioSurface™ Peel consists of an initial Prep Step followed by layers of Enzyme and Acid Active peel solutions, which are neutralized in the fourth and final neutralizer step. Because of the intensity of the powerful active ingredients, special training and certification are required to use BioSurface™ Peel.

In addition to Salicylic Acid, the Acid Active(+) phase (Step 3) also delivers Lactic Acid, bran-derived Phytic Acid, and Sugar Cane Extract. This step brightens areas of hyperpigmentation, helps removes impaction plugs in follicles especially in sebaceous glands, and aids in cell turnover. The De.celerator (Step 4) halts the exfoliation process with a blend of Sodium Bicarbonate, Yeast Extract and soothing Cucumber Fruit, Japanese Green Tea, Oat Leaf and Saponaria Leaf Extracts. This final phase slows the activity of the acids and normalizes the epidermis while calming and comforting skin and initiating the process of skin repair.

Active ingredients include Salicylic Acid used in both the Prep Solution (Step 1) and Acid Active(+) (Step

To ensure maximum results, BioSurface Peel is recommended to clients as a series of three to six

treatments during the autumn, winter and spring months to minimize UV exposure. Future line extensions to new Professional Expert Strength are expected to launch in 2015. About Korum Salon: Korum Salon launched in December 2013, is the brainchild of Varun Garg and Karan Vohra who comes on board with immense experience in setting up and transforming startups into successful businesses. The brand aspires to redefine relaxation and rejuvenation in a contemporary environment perfected by signature Korum services. With a great emphasis on attention to detail to ensure that you look your best each artist works patiently with you to create the look you want.

For further media queries please contact: To learn more about Dermalogica please visit www.dermalogica.in

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Cosmeceuticals: Combining Moisturizers With Antioxidants “Certain ingredients in cosmeceuticals may help clear up acne and make your skin look younger. Get the scoop on the pros and cons of common cosmeceutical ingredients.”

The Vitamin D Dilemma Why Do We Get Wrinkles? Who doesn’t love a moisturizer with a luxurious feel? And wouldn’t it be great if it also made your skin look clearer or younger? That’s the promise of cosmeceuticals.

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“Cosmeceuticals try to bridge the gap between what you can get at the cosmetic counter and what you can get at a pharmacy,” says Suzan Obagi, MD, president of the Cosmetic Surgery Foundation and associate professor of dermatology and director of the Cosmetic Surgery and Skin Health Center at the University of Pittsburgh. Prescription medications are designed to work very effectively, but often they don’t have the elegance or feel of over-the-counter moisturizers. They’re also not typically tailored to different skin types, Dr. Obagi says. But cosmeceuticals are good quality products that effectively make your skin look younger while being

tailored for dry, oily, or combination skin. Here are some common ingredients in cosmeceuticals and what you can expect from them. Hydroxy Acids Moisturizers that contain hydroxy acids, such as alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta hydroxy acids (BHAs), help to exfoliate the outer layer of dead skin cells, Obagi says. The most common AHAs are glycolic and lactic acid, but others include citric acid, hydroxycaprylic acid, and hydroxycapric acid. Salicylic acid is the most commonly available BHA, adds Obagi. Some


cosmeceuticals combine both AHAs and BHAs. You can find these types of cosmeceuticals at the drugstore. Obagi suggests choosing a brand that has a large research and development department to back up the quality of the product, such as Neutrogena, Revlon, Aveeno, and Oil of Olay. Pros: Hydroxy acids help keep the surface of skin smooth and unclog pores, which helps improve acne. And when you use a moisturizer with a hydroxy acid in the morning, it enables other products you put on throughout the day, such as antiaging creams and serums, to better penetrate your skin, Obagi says. Salicylic acid, in particular, is very good at penetrating the skin and improving acne. Cons: AHAs can be irritating because they’re more acidic than salicylic acid, Obagi explains. For that reason, you may experience stinging when you use them. People who have rosacea tend to do better with salicylic acid, she adds. Hydroxy acids also make your skin more sensitive to the sun, so it’s important to wear sunscreen if you’re using this cosmeceutical. People who have photosensitive disorders such as lupus should avoid hydroxy acids altogether, Obagi says. Antioxidants and Vitamins

skin by counteracting the effect of free radicals, which cause inflammation and can lead to prematurely aging skin and skin cancer. These products may contain C, D, E, and B-complex vitamins.

There are a host of moisturizers on the market with added vitamins and antioxidants. Antioxidants help your

Cons: Vitamin C is the only vitamin that’s known to benefit the skin when it’s applied topically, Obagi

Pros: Vitamin C serum is part of a good anti-aging regimen and can effectively prevent wrinkles and age spots. However, Obagi recommends buying a serum sold in your dermatologist’s office because less expensive drugstore brands may not work as well.

says, so it’s not necessary to buy other moisturizers with vitamins or antioxidants. It’s better to get those antioxidant vitamins in your diet and through supplements. In addition, vitamin E is a known allergen, so there is a risk of an allergic reaction if you use a product that contains it, she says.

prescription. PEPTIDES Copper peptides, which are building blocks for cell renewal, are a new trend in cosmeceuticals. They’re touted as a powerful antiaging ingredient that can help your skin produce more collagen, making it look younger and plumper.

RETINOIDS Retinoids, which are derivatives of vitamin A, have been shown to reduce fine lines and wrinkles, smooth out the skin, and help to fade age spots. Pros: The prescription formula based on the retinoid called tretinoin (Retin-A) is one of the best antiaging regimens you can follow, Obagi says. However, tretinoin is only available by prescription and isn’t available as a cosmeceutical. Cons: True cosmeceuticals that contain retinoids aren’t as effective as the prescription drug, Obagi says. If you’re looking for help with antiaging, this is one cosmeceutical to leave on the shelf in favor of the

Pros: Peptides have more of an allure because they promise what other products don’t, Obagi says. Cons: However, there’s no research that has shown that peptides work. “The problem is that skin is a good barrier,” Obagi says so the copper peptides in an expensive cream may not even be able to penetrate the surface. The good news: Cosmeceuticals, such as the ones that contain hydroxy acids and vitamin C, are great choices for your skin, Obagi says. Keep in mind that moisturizers don’t perform miracles, but tried and true cosmeceuticals can offer the benefits of healthier, youngerlooking skin with the feel of a luxurious cream.

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Do you have oily skin, dry skin… a combo? Understanding the difference will help you know how to care for your complexion. Skin is generally classified into one of four categories: normal, oily, dry, and combination, says Susan Van Dyke, MD, a dermatologist with Van Dyke Laser and Skin Care in Paradise Valley, Ariz. However, your skin type can change as you age, and other factors like genetics and even illness can play a part. “It’s multi-factorial,” Dr. Van Dyke says.

What's My Skin Type?

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ormal skin, which has a good balance of moisture, small pores and an even tone, is the goal of most skin care regimens. Most people have normal skin, Van Dyke says, but to maintain its good condition, it’s important to

minimize its exposure to the sun. A facial sunscreen with an SPF of at least 30 is ideal for preventing wrinkles and other sun damage. “Put it by your toothpaste and use it,” Van Dyke says. “It doesn’t matter if it is snowing or raining — get in that habit so you always have it on. Incidental sun exposure is what gets you.” Skin Care: Quieting Oily Skin Oily skin is identified by an excess of oil (the technical term is sebum) on the face. Some people with oily skin begin to feel greasy only a few hours after washing. “A very oily person would feel the need to wash their face between noon and 5 p.m., because oil has built up during the day,” Van Dyke says. Oily skin can be an inherited trait, but it can also be caused by puberty, which causes oil glands to go into overdrive. You may also notice more oil on your “T-zone” because of all the oil glands in the forehead,

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nose, and chin. People with oily skin generally don’t need a regular moisturizer, but sunscreen is still necessary to reduce exposure to UV rays. Choose an oil-free sunscreen, suggests Van Dyke says, one that’s specifically formulated for the face and are less likely to create blackheads and clog pores. “There are plenty of oil-free sunscreens available,” Van Dyke says. “Go to the drugstore, read labels, and try samples of different ones. There’s no excuse not to use sunscreen anymore.”

effect; most women begin to experience drier skin as they hit their late forties. To care for dry skin, use a gentle, soap-free cleanser, and moisturize adequately. A second application of moisturizer may be needed during the day, Van Dyke adds. Skin Care: Balancing Combination Skin Combination skin is a blend of both oily and dry skin. People with combination skin usually find that their oily skin is concentrated in the T-zone, while their cheeks remain dry.

Skin Care: Soothing Dry Skin Dry skin, on the other hand, suffers from a lack of natural moisture — there’s little oil to act as a surface barrier and lock in moisture. People with dry skin feel a tightness about their face, and their skin is often irritated. Flaking is another symptom, but it’s not always a sure sign of dry skin. “You can have flaky skin and not be dry,” Van Dyke says. Sometimes, severely dry skin can become itchy and painful, leading to a condition called eczema. Treatment of certain medical conditions can sometimes lead to dry skin. For example, breast cancer treatment may stop hormone production which could in turn affect the quality of your skin. “This will throw people into a menopausal situation at an early age,” Van Dyke says. “Suddenly, there’s no oil production.” Naturally-occurring menopause can have the same

Combination skin can be influenced by genetics and, again, by puberty, when oil glands increase their production of sebum. Sometimes a variety of products are needed to treat combination skin. “You may have to treat different parts of the face slightly differently,” Van Dyke says. For example, a mild cleanser and moisturizer may be needed on the cheeks, while an anti-acne product with benzoyl peroxide might be necessary on the T-zone. If you’re still not sure about your skin type or the best way to nourish it, consult a dermatologist who can recommend an over-the-counter skin care regimen or offer you a physician’s line of products. Look for a doctor who is board-certified by the American Academy of Dermatology. “Your dermatologist is absolutely your best skin-care expert,” Van Dyke says.



Top 10 Tips for Healthy Winter Skin

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old, dry air can leave skin itchy, red, and irritated. Combat dry winter skin with these tips for retaining your skin's natural moisture. Dry winter air can wreak havoc on your skin — leaving it dry, itchy, and irritated; but there are many simple ways to combat dry skin causes and help keep your skin feeling moist and supple all winter long. Here are 10 ways to get started. Top 10 Tips for Healthy Winter Skin 1. Invest in a humidifier. Using a humidifier in your home or office will add moisture to dry winter air and help keep your skin hydrated. Run a humidifier in the rooms you spend the most time in, including your bedroom. 2. Lower the thermostat. When it's chilly outside, what's the first thing you want to do? Crank up the heat! But central heat can make the air in your house even drier. Try setting the thermostat at a cool, yet comfortable setting — 68°F to 72°F — to maintain healthy skin. 3. Skip hot showers. Although it may be tempting to warm up with a long, steamy shower, hot water dries out your skin by stripping it of its natural oils. Instead, take a 5- to

10-minute lukewarm shower (or bath). You should also avoid using excessively hot water when washing your hands — if the water causes your skin to turn red, it’s too hot. 4. Choose cleanser wisely. The wrong soap can worsen itchy, dry skin. For instance, steer clear of regular bar soaps, since they tend to contain irritating ingredients and fragrances. Instead, start washing with a fragrance-free, moisturizing cleanser or gel. You can also prevent winter skin problems by using less soap, so limit your lathering to necessary areas, such as your hands, armpits, genitals, and feet. 5. Modify your facial skin care regimen for the season. During the winter months, choose creambased cleansers, and apply toners and astringents sparingly, if at all. Many astringents contain alcohol, which can further dry your skin. Look for products that contain little or no alcohol — unless your skin is excessively oily. At night, use a richer moisturizer on your face. 6. Moisturize frequently. Maintain healthy skin by moisturizing after washing up. "Blot skin dry and apply a thick moisturizer within a few minutes after bathing to seal the water into the skin," says Linda Stein

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Gold, MD, director of dermatology clinical research and division head of dermatology at Henry Ford Hospital, West Bloomfield, MI. "It's best to use a cream or ointment in the winter. Lotions are better in warmer, humid climates. And don't forget your hands,” says Dr. Stein Gold. "Constant washing will cause the hands to take a beating. Apply hand cream after each washing, and wear waterproof gloves when washing dishes or cleaning around the house." 7. Apply sunscreen — even in winter. It is still important to protect your skin from harmful UV rays on cold, dreary days in winter. Before going outside, apply a moisturizing, broad-spectrum sunscreen with an SPF of 15 or higher to all exposed areas of your body. 8. Wear appropriate clothing. Many cold-weather fabrics can aggravate dry winter skin. "Keep wool and rough clothing from directly touching your skin," says Stein Gold. "This can cause dry skin to get irritated and itchy." Wear soft, breathable materials against your skin, and then pull on a warmer sweater. Protect your hands from cold winter air with gloves or mittens. Remember to choose a pair that won’t irritate your skin. If you prefer wool gloves, put cotton or

silk glove liners on first. 9. Eat right and stay hydrated. "Sometimes when skin is very dry, it can be helped by foods or supplements that contain omega-3 or omega-6 fatty acids, such as fish oil and flaxseed oil," says Barbara R. Reed, MD, clinical professor of dermatology at the University of Colorado Health Sciences Center in Denver, CO, and in private practice at Denver Skin Clinic. "For the most part, however, it is important to help the skin moisturize from the outside." 10. Change out of wet clothes quickly. Wearing wet clothes and shoes can further irritate your skin and cause itchiness. Be sure to remove wet gloves, socks, and pants as soon as possible.

If you still experience dryness, discomfort, and irritation after trying these healthy skin tips, Stein Gold suggests using an over-the-counter, 1-percent hydrocortisone cream. "If you don't see improvement in a few days, talk with your doctor," Stein Gold says. You may need a prescription-strength moisturizer to overcome winter's drying effects on your skin.



How to Find the Right Skin Moisturizer By Marie Suszynski | Medically reviewed by Lindsey Marcellin, MD, MPH

KNOWING WHAT YOUR SKIN NEEDS WILL HELP YOU MAKE THE RIGHT DECISION.

Feel overwhelmed when you want to buy skin moisturizer for your dry skin? That’s no surprise, as there are dozens to choose from at the drugstore and hundreds more at high-end cosmetics and department stores — creams, lotions, ointments, some with sunscreen, others with an exfoliant. Choices range from the basic $1.50 jar of petroleum jelly to a $500 five-ounce tub of designer skin moisturizer. And all the options in between can make your head spin. While choosing the right skin

moisturizer may seem confusing, it’s actually very simple if you follow a few guidelines, says dermatologist Monica Halem, MD, of ColumbiaDoctors Eastside in New York City. Dr. Halem’s first rule of thumb? Don’t spend too much money. How a Skin Moisturizer Works Cleansers and moisturizers are the most important skin products, particularly for softening dry skin.

A skin moisturizer works by sealing moisture into the outer layer of the skin and by pulling moisture from the inner layers of skin to the outer layer.

Key ingredients that seal in moisture are petrolatum, mineral oil, lanolin, and dimethicone. Glycerin, propylene glycol, proteins, urea, and vitamins help attract water into the outer layer of the skin. Some skin moisturizers also contain an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA), which exfoliates dead skin, says Francesca Fusco, MD, assistant clinical professor of dermatology at Mount Sinai School of Medicine in New York City and a spokeswoman for the Skin Cancer Foundation. AHAs are a good choice if you have very dry skin. Finding the Skin Moisturizer For You It may take some trial and error, Halem says, so be patient. Follow these guidelines as you shop and, if you’re not getting the results you want, try a new one the next time: Note the first five ingredients. Look for common active ingredients, such as lanolin, glycerin, or petrolatum, Dr. Fusco says. Glycerin is less likely than lanolin to cause an allergic reaction, she says. She also recommends picking a moisturizer that’s made by a reputable company. Go for added sunscreen. Protecting your skin from harmful sun damage is one of the best things you can do to keep your skin looking young, so buy a moisturizer with a sun protection factor of at least 30. You’ll have to do some searching, but

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more companies are offering face and body moisturizers with sunscreen, Halem says. Make it skin-type appropriate. The skin on your face is thinner and more sensitive, so it’s a good idea to use a different moisturizer on your face than you do on your body, Fusco says and recommends buying one that’s labeled “noncomedogenic” because it won’t clog your pores. Of course, choose one that’s right for your skin type. If you know you have sensitive skin, it’s always a good idea to look for a moisturizer labeled hypoallergenic. If you have oily skin, go with a light, oil-free moisturizer. If you have dry skin, get something richer. And if you have combination skin, go with a lighter moisturizer for your whole face and dot drier areas with a heavier cream, Fusco says. Keep in mind that you may need a lighter lotion in the summer, and a cream or

ointment in the winter.

irritation, red skin, itching, or a rash.

Consider using a moisturizer with retinol before bed. Retinol is vitamin A for your skin, Halem says. It works by increasing the speed at which your skin cells turn over. You can find it over the counter or by prescription, but use it carefully as it may cause a skin irritation, red skin, or dry skin.

Another prescription option is a barrier cream, which contains humectants that hold on to moisture longer, Fusco says. Barrier creams penetrate a little deeper than standard moisturizers, she adds. When to Moisturize

If your skin is very dry, consider a prescription moisturizer. Prescription moisturizers contain the AHA lactic acid, which softens the top layer of your skin and can do a better job if over-the-counter moisturizers aren’t working for you, Fusco says.

Once you find the right product, moisturize every day and you’ll go a long way toward preventing dry skin and even camouflaging wrinkles. While a skin moisturizer can’t get rid of wrinkles — because wrinkles begin much deeper in the skin due to collagen loss — it can plump up the skin and minimize their appearance, Halem says.

AHAs such as lactic acid and glycolic acid can cause an allergic reaction in some people. Tell your doctor if you experience burning,

Whichever moisturizer you choose, it will work better if you apply it to damp skin. Think about a sponge that’s dried out, Fusco says. If you

Relief by Prescription

put moisturizer on it, it won’t go anywhere. But if you soak the sponge in water and coat it with moisturizer, the sponge will absorb it. Your skin works the same way, happily lapping it up.

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Skin Panic, Skin Therapy: When Stress Shows on Your Skin stress is triggered, your adrenal gland produces dumps cortisol into your bloodstream. The more you are stressed the more your body can’t regulate the levels of cortisol in your system, and that’s when the danger begins. Your body can start showing signs of increased sensitivity, itchiness, breakouts, and even stretchmarks!

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elebrity dermatologist Ava Shamban, MD, talks about disconnecting from stress for the sake of your skin.

In my practice, stress is one of the most formidable opponents. In Hollywood, stress’ heightened sense of urgency can actually be addictive for some people. Physiologically, it works like this. Once

Stress is a particularly sinister adversary because whatever your skin’s vulnerability — whether acne, rosacea, signs of aging, extremely dry skin, extremely oily skin, eczema, psoriasis, herpes, allergies or some unsavory combination of two or more of the above — stress is going to find a way to make it worse. This, in turn, causes more stress creating a self-perpetuating cycle. Can you win? I’m here to say yes you can. The approach here is twofold. Without question, you’re going to want to treat the condition itself, and I’ll have plenty to post about all those above and more over the next many months. Meanwhile, you’ve got to interrupt the stress cascade and break the vicious cycle on a daily basis. I’m not going to sit and insult you by just telling you to relax (easier said than done in our busy lives, right?). What I am going to do is ask you to do some detective work. Some people dispense with stress by doing noisy things (intense cardio, sports, dancing, laughing etc.) Others respond better to a quiet, centered approach (stretching, massage, deep breathing, creative hobbies, or reading). Still others like

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to mix it up with both. Whatever works for you, once you’ve found your favorites, you’re on to something. Now, put your stress busters into play for at least 10 minutes at a time, three times a day and try to fit in another 30-minute continuous session if at all possible. (For the record, sex or food can work for you when savored, but as obsessions can be big time destructive stressors.) Stress is inevitable, but how well you respond to it can spell the difference between illness and health and tipping the balance away from frustration and into fulfillment. So when it comes to skin problems, strategic equilibrium is your new best friend. Life happens but it doesn’t have to show on your skin.



'Pruney fingers' may sound silly, but finding out what's behind them is serious science. If you’ve ever spent too much time in the pool, or if you like to unwind at the end of a hard day with an hours-long soak in the tub, you’re probably familiar with the “pruney fingers” phenomenon. Believe it or not, scientists have been studying this raisin-like effect for decades, trying to figure out why your hands (and sometimes your feet) get so wrinkly when wet.

Why Do Your Fingers Prune Up After a Bath?

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ne popular idea is that your skin simply becomes waterlogged. According to the Library of Congress, the epidermis, or outer layer of skin, is made up of dead keratin cells that absorb moisture when immersed in water for an extended period of time. This absorption causes the cells to swell, but because they’re still connected to the underlying tissue, which does not expand, the outer skin has to wrinkle to compensate for its larger surface area. It’s a little like having a king-size sheet for a queen-size mattress: The extra material has nowhere to go, so it bunches up unevenly on top. But why are only your fingers and toes affected — why doesn’t your entire body wrinkle? Scientists say it’s because our hands and feet have the thickest epidermis and thus more keratin cells to absorb water. (Your nails also contain keratin, which is why they may feel softer after you do the dishes.)

News. The mechanics theory is based on the idea of vasoconstriction, or the narrowing of blood vessels. Basically, when fingers and toes are immersed in hot or cold water, nerve endings fire off signals that cause your blood vessels to constrict and the tissue below your skin’s surface to contract. This, in turn, forces the outermost layer of skin to buckle, resulting in wrinkling. But recent research suggests there may be even more to wrinkly skin than that. Evolutionary neurobiologist Mark Changizi, PhD, and his team at 2AI Labs in Boise, Idaho, are working to prove their theory that pruney fingers and toes are not just the products of a dermatological quirk; rather, they’re the genetic equivalent of rain treads — those functional grooves on all-weather

Is There a Purpose to Pruning? The problem with this hypothesis is that it doesn’t really account for the fact that fingers and toes don’t wrinkle when their nerve endings have been severed, as by injury or complications from diabetes. This can be explained by a different theory, which proposes that the prune-like effect is due not to skin saturation but to a reaction in the central nervous system — a “classic mechanics problem,” as Columbia University biomechanical engineer Xi Chen, PhD, explained it to Nature 46 |January-February 2015 | Beauty & Fashion World

tires and shoes that help with traction in wet conditions. Changizi believes that these so-called treads on hands and feet may have been built into DNA over the ages to improve your grip.

remove the water between the skin and the surface it is trying to grip,” he explained. “The best way to quickly move water tends to be via channels, the stuff of arteries and rivers.”

“Our pruney fingers may be a crucial part of our primate repertoire,” he wrote in an article for Forbes.com. “Once primates went the way of finger nails rather than claws, treads were needed where claws may have sufficed before.”

More research is needed to prove Changizi’s hypothesis, but he’s already hard at work on follow-up studies. Next on his list, according to Nature News: testing whether wrinkles actually allow for better grip and looking into whether mammals in wet climates are more likely to get pruney fingers than those in dry habitats. If the theory holds up, he says, we may be able to use pruney fingers to improve our existing tire and shoe rain-tread technology.

To support this theory, Changizi and his team analyzed pattern similarities in 28 photographs of pruney fingers. All 28 had wrinkles that formed vertical channels, which work to drain water away from fingertips. “In order for a hand to reach out and grip a wet surface without hydroplaning, it needs a way to efficiently

“Far from an embarrassing mistake,” he wrote, “wet wrinkled fingers are yet another testament to biology’s brilliance.”



Is a Bad Hair Day Bad for Your Health? >>>

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hen your mane's a mess, does it seem like nothing goes your way? Don't worry – it's not just you. Whether you’re fighting with frizz, trying to pump up limp locks, or doing battle with the weather, having a hair meltdown may affect more than just your appearance. “Bad hair” can have profound effects on your mental well-being, causing both women and men to lose selfesteem, become more socially insecure, and even doubt their own abilities, researchers at Yale University found in one study. The study, commissioned by Proctor and Gamble, found that people may actually perform below their abilities when they believe their hair is not up to snuff. The researchers reported that even the thought of a bad hair day made women and men believe they weren’t as smart as others. Socially, women reported feeling embarrassed, ashamed, and self-conscious during bad hair days

while men said they felt more nervous and less self-confident. “There is a strong correlation between what we see in the mirror and how we feel about ourselves,” says Amy L. Flowers, PhD, a psychologist with expertise in selfesteem and body image and with a practice in Macon, Ga. “Thomas Cash, a famous researcher in body image, states that up to 25 percent of our self-esteem is determined by how we feel about our bodies — you can’t hate the way you look and still love yourself,” Flowers says. “Also, we assume that others see us the way we see ourselves, so if we don’t like a particular feature (like our hair), we assume that others find it repulsive, too.” But, of course, that’s not always the case. Hair Care, Mood, and Well-Being Thankfully, most women report being generally happy with the results of their hair care routine. A 2010 survey conducted by ShopSmart, a magazine from the

publishers of Consumer Reports, found that 19 percent of respondents said they “love” their hair and 41 percent said they “like” it. But 44 percent of respondents said their mood has been negatively affected by a bad hair day, and 26 percent said they actually were moved to tears after a botched haircut. The reaction is understandable, says Flowers. “We put importance on our hair and face because these are features that cannot be hidden; they are the first things we notice about people.” U.S. Secretary of State Hillary Rodham Clinton can attest to the power of hair. She once famously quipped, “If I want to knock a story off the front page, I just change my hairstyle.” To avoid a bad hair day, women are ready to dip pretty deep into their pockets. The ShopSmart poll found that, on average, women pay $39 dollars for a haircut. Also, 53 percent of women reported

regularly coloring their hair. If it’s done at a salon, women shell out an average $65 for color. “I think women will spend their last money on manicures and haircuts because these are not seen as luxuries any more but ‘impressionformation devices,’ especially on job interviews, first dates, etc.,” Flowers says. What Good Hair Care Says About You “I think hair can say a lot about how we see ourselves — if it looks like you just fell out of bed, it implies that you don’t care about your appearance, which to me indicates poor self-esteem,” says Flowers. “I don’t think you have to have on a full face of makeup before going out to get the mail, but a person who is going out in public should be clean and tidy. It shows self-respect and makes a good impression.” And she urges people to "remember that old expression: You only have one chance to make a first impression.”

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Dos and Don'ts of Scar Prevention

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cars are a natural part of healing. But you don't have to wear your battle wounds as badges. These strategies can help reduce their visibility. No matter how careful we are, accidents happen. Whether it’s a toddler bumping his head on the sharp corner of a coffee table or an adult slipping up with a kitchen knife while slicing vegetables, injuries — and often lingering scars — abound. Though total scar prevention may be impossible after a cut, there are things you can do to lessen the severity of any lasting marks. Scar Treatment: The 411 About Scars The first thing to know is that scar formation is a totally normal part of the healing process. “When the skin is injured, collagen production goes into overdrive to fix the wound as fast as possible,” says Jessica Krant, MD, MPH, assistant clinical professor of dermatology at SUNY Downstate Medical Center and founder of the Art of Dermatology LLC in New York City. “This healing tissue doesn’t contain all of the normal parts of skin, so it looks different.” The appearance of any given scar depends on a number of factors. The shape, size, and depth of the wound contribute to the way a scar looks, as do the amount of blood that can get to the area, your skin color, and your skin thickness. There are three main types of scars. Normal scars are relatively thin, small, and flat. Hypertrophic scars are red, thick, and raised. Keloid scars are

also raised, often dark or red, and, unlike hypertrophic scars, expand beyond the contours of the actual wound. Keloid scars tend to be genetic and can be hard to control or predict, says Dr. Krant. They come from an overproduction of collagen and can be treated by injecting steroid medication into the affected area . Consultation with a medical professional is the best route when dealing with a keloid scar. Scar Prevention: Dos and Don’ts There are steps you can take — and mistakes to avoid — to help heal skin with as little residual scarring as possible. “The key to lessening scarring is to decrease the amount of work the body has to do to heal the scar,” Krant says. Here’s how: Get stitches if needed. Cuts that are spread apart or are deep often heal better when they are stitched by a medical professional. Keep in mind that stitches must be sewn as soon as possible, while the injury is fresh. If too much time elapses, the wound may become contaminated with germs or bacteria, and a doctor may not want to stitch it closed because of the threat of infection. Also, the wound may start to partially heal, which can hinder successful suturing. If in doubt about whether stitches are in order, see a doctor in

a timely manner and let him decide the best treatment for the wound. Keep the wound moist. Apply petroleum jelly to the wound and cover it with a non-stick bandage. This can speed healing and minimize scarring, says Krant. Don’t fall for the false advertising of scar creams. You might have heard that vitamin E can help reduce scarring, but this has not been proven in a high-quality study (a double-blind, placebo-controlled trial). In fact, no over-the-counter product claiming to prevent scars has been scientifically shown to significantly improve scarring. Massage the wound. On the other hand, “massaging the scar daily with vitamin E may help promote a less visible scar,” says Krant.. Avoid the sun. Keeping the

scar away from sunlight can help minimize discoloration. Let it heal naturally. Don’t use hydrogen peroxide too frequently as it can cause continual irritation and slow the healing process. And don’t pick at scabs. “Scabs are nature’s biologic dressing,” Krant says. “Picking off a scab repeatedly when a wound is trying to heal will slow healing and increase scarring. ” Be patient. Healing takes time — possibly a long time. The first phase of healing takes three months, followed by a second phase that lasts another three months. At one year after the injury, the scar has basically formed, but even then it will still change and appear different a year after that. “The truth is, scars never stop changing and improving unless they are keloid scars, which continually worsen unless treated by a physician,” Krant says.

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Hair Care Can Pose Health Risks for Black Women

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opular products and styles can stress the scalp, leading to hair loss and skin conditions, expert says.

Richards said Monday during a presentation at the American Academy of Dermatology's annual conference in San Diego.

moisturizing shampoo and conditioner, and limit the use of blow-dryers, hot combs and other heated hairstyling products to once a week.

Certain hairstyling practices can result in serious hair and scalp diseases for some black women, an expert warns.

She said dermatologists need to become more aware of the hair and scalp issues that can affect black women, and also offered the following grooming tips to reduce the risk of developing a hair or scalp disease: Wash hair weekly with a

Use natural hair oils with jojoba, olive, shea or coconut oils.

"Hair is an extremely important aspect of an African American woman's appearance," Dr. Diane Jackson-Richards, director of Henry Ford Hospital's Multicultural Dermatology Clinic in Detroit, said in a hospital news release. "Yet many women who have a hair or scalp disease do not feel their physician takes them seriously. Physicians should become more familiar with the culturally accepted treatments for these diseases." Black women tend to shampoo their hair less often than other ethnic groups, and about 80 percent of black women use chemical relaxers, Jackson-Richards said. She also said frequent use of blow-dryers and hot combs, combined with popular hairstyles such as weaves, braids and dreadlocks, cause physical stress to the hair and contribute to scalp diseases such as alopecia, or hair loss. Proper hair care can help prevent diseases such as alopecia and an inflammatory skin condition called seborrheic dermatitis, Jackson-

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To detangle hair, use a wide-tooth comb while conditioner is still in the hair.

Allow two weeks between relaxing and coloring. Wash braids or dreadlocks every two weeks. Don't wear braids too tight and don't wear them longer than three months.



Smoothing Skin with Microdermabrasion

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ou can slather on the moisturizer and the anti-aging creams, but if you want to go to the next level of skin rejuvenation, consider facial microdermabrasion. Exfoliating your skin is a popular antiaging regimen, and one readily available procedure is microdermabrasion. Just don’t confuse it with dermabrasion, which is a deeper removal of skin layers with a longer healing time and must be done by a physician, such as a dermatologist or cosmetic surgeon. Facial microdermabrasion can be done at home, a spa, or a doctor’s office. Skin microdermabrasion means superficially abrading, or sanding, some of the top skin layer. Skin looks rejuvenated because microdermabrasion softens fine lines and shallow wrinkles. Microdermabrasion acne treatments can also be helpful to improve the look of your complexion. Microdermabrasion techniques depend on whether you’re trying the treatment at home or having it done by a professional. If you buy an at-home kit, you’ll typically use a manual pad that contains fine crystals to sand your skin. If you go to a spa or medical office, an aesthetitician, nurse, or doctor will use a machine that will shoot out small crystals at a high velocity and suction them back up to smooth the skin, explains Monica Gavin, MD, owner and medical director of Azani Medical Spa in Bethlehem, PA. As a result, you’ll see an improvement in fine lines and wrinkles and your skin will look revived. There’s also a similar procedure called Vibradermabrasion. This method uses a vibrating paddle,

rather than crystals, to sand the top layer of skin. The technique allows the user to get closer to the eye, where wrinkles tend to settle, without risking injury to the eye. Vibradermabrasion is also able to go a little deeper and infuse medicalgrade skin care products into the skin.

can’t compare to a professional dermabrasion treatment, Gavin says. You’ll get more noticeable results at a spa or doctor’s office. MICRODERMABRASION AT THE SPA

MICRODERMABRASION AT HOME

You won’t need to exfoliate as often when you get skin microdermabrasion from a professional. Gavin recommends a professional microdermabrasion treatment once a month. However, if time and money prevent that, once every three months is adequate, she says.

Time and money are the biggest reasons people don’t opt for professional skin microdermabrasion, Gavin says. But using an at-home kit is better than not exfoliating at all.

Pros: A professional microdermabrasion treatment will give you better results than using an at-home kit and you’ll get the treatment in the luxurious setting of the spa.

Pros: At-home kits are by far the most affordable. Most are under $100 and some cost as little as $20. They can be used once a week by most people, Gavin says. However, if you have very sensitive skin, you may want to limit treatments to once every two weeks.

Cons: When you’re going to a spa for facial microdermabrasion, you have to take the extra step to ensure that a medical doctor oversees the facility. Microdermabrasion can cause broken capillaries, skin bruising, or eye damage if the crystals get into the eye, Gavin says. However, the risk is low when medically trained professionals are

How do you know which skin microdermabrasion approach is right for you? Consider their pros and cons.

Cons: The quality of at-home kits

54 |January-February 2015 | Beauty & Fashion World

performing the procedure. Also, be sure you don’t have it done too often — no more than once a month — because it can cause skin inflammation. The procedure will also be more expensive at a spa than at home. Gavin estimates that microdermabrasion typically costs about $100 to $150. MICRODERMABRASION AT THE DOCTOR’S OFFICE A doctor’s office offers the security of having the treatment done in a medical setting. Pros: Microdermabrasion in a medical facility will give you better results than an at-home kit. And because you’re in a doctor’s office, you don’t have to worry about staff, as the physician performs or oversees the treatments. Cons: Going to a doctor’s office will usually cost more than going to a spa for microdermabrasion. Expect to pay around $200 at the doctor’s office. You should make sure that the doctor is well trained, has plenty of experience, and is board certified.




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