Sep Oct2015

beauty September-October 2015

The Cosmetic, Perfumery & Make-Up Magazine

www.beautyfashionworld.in

& FASHION WORLD

the

Nails trends!

SkinCARE! Mineral MakeUP! Weight Loss!

Welcome to!

Herbal REMEDIES Skin Aging

CLOCK

beauty September-October 2015

www.beautyfashionworld.in

& FASHION WORLD

Cosmetics trends in Germany & 30th Beauty Forum Munich The use of colour cosmetics as a means of self-expression and individualisation continued to be of great importance in Germany in 2015. Consumers want and appreciate the opportunity to express and differentiate themselves from others. The popularity of “selfies” supported the importance many – particularly young female – consumers place on colour cosmetics.

Beauty and personal care in Germany continued to register positive current value growth in 2015, albeit slower than the review period average. Generally speaking, this was driven by price pressure from the private label trend as well as increasing market maturity. However, positive value growth continued to be sustained by product innovation and increasing differentiation and segmentation.

Facing the challenge of a very mature market, many companies and brands have embraced micro-segmentation as an instrument to generate demand and drive sales. Many manufacturers have decided that a product targeted simply at men, women or girls is longer enough to generate sufficient consumer interest. Targeting very specific groups of consumers has become essential to sustaining sales. These groups include women specifically aged between 20 and 30, men with very sensitive skin, women who live in very urban settings and therefore expose their skin to high levels of pollution and men who are worried about the signs of ageing, to name a few.

Many of the new products launched in 2015 were serums in the facial skin care category. One of the key launches was Shiseido Ultimune Power Infusing Concentrate. This product is interesting because it unites several trends in the German market. As a serum, it is part of the trend for applying multiple layers of products. It also focuses on the exposure of skin to modern and urban lifestyles. In addition, by claiming to activate the skin’s own immune system, it also plays on the notion of being somewhat natural because it implies that the actual function is executed by consumers’ own skin much more than directly by the product.

To see the latest from Germany, please visit 30th Beauty Forum Munich from 17-18 October 2015.

Printed, Published & Owned by Amrita Kanwar. Published at D 182, PR House, Anand Vihar, Delhi 110 092 and Printed at Chandu Press, 63, Patparganj, Delhi. Editor : Amrita Kanwar

Clariant slows down the skin aging clock with Plantasens® Olive Active HP

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lariant, a world leader in specialty chemicals, unveils a powerful antiaging addition to its Plantasens® portfolio helping to significantly - and naturally - slow down the skin’s aging cycle. Plantasens Olive Active HP offers an effective and 100% natural response to the increasing desire of young and older consumers to preserve the skin’s natural beauty for longer.

Clariant’s olive -derived active ingredient helps to counteract two important physiological processes, glycation and lipid peroxidation. These contribute many of the signs associated with skin aging, such as wrinkle formation, skin thinning, and loss of suppleness and hydration, and are consequently at the root of most consumers’ anti-aging needs.

Plantasens Olive Active HP provides a natural shield which leads according to internal tests to proven benefits in combating glycation and lipid peroxidation. In-vitro and ex-vivo tests show a significantly protective effect on UV-induced lipid peroxidation in human skin, the ingredient scavenges reactive oxygen species (ROS), and it prevents the formation of advanced glycation end products (AGEs) which promote a dull skin appearance and loss of suppleness and resilience. Plantasens Olive Active HP helps to actively protect structural tissues and maintain skin homeostasis.

The active ingredient can be used in antiaging and daily face-care creams and lotions, sun and after sun care products, and BB (beauty balm), CC (color correction) and DD (daily defense) creams. It is ECOCERT® and COSMOS® approved.

“Anti-aging is the second largest segment in skin care currently, and it is expected to continue growing. Plantasens Olive Active HP provides formulators and brand owners with an innovative naturallyderived active ingredient for skin care products aimed at fighting the vicious aging circle triggered by oxidation and glycation. By combining advanced performance and a natural basis it addresses many consumer preferences in one powerful tool,” comments Ralf Zerrer, Global Head Strategic Marketing, Business Unit Industrial & Consumer Specialties at Clariant.

4 | September-October 2015 | Beauty & Fashion World

30th BEAUTY FORUM MUNICH SEIZING OPPORTUNITIES

W

hat can you look

superlative skill. If you would like to

does this offer you? Hair styles from

forward to at the jubilee trade fair on 17 and 18

see Germany’s best known makeup artist in the fashion industry live

classic to avant garde, with all different lengths of hair and fabulous

October 2015? BEAUTY FORUM MUNICH can boast around 880

on stage, just make a note of the date – trade fair Saturday, 17

styling techniques – plus a make-up to add extra emphasis to the perfect

international firms and brands as exhibitors, two scientific con-

October. From 1.00 to 2.00 pm, the BEAUTY POINT will be focusing on

look. Just come to the BEAUTY POINT from 3.00 to 4.00 pm, and be

gresses, international championships, stage attractions and

the make-up artist’s Multiple Colours Looks. Horst Kirchberger will show

amazed by the ideal symbiosis of make-up and hair styling.

numerous possibilities of further training. Take advantage of this

you how to make the stylish maximum out of the wide variety of

FASHION SHOW POWERED BY

opportunity, and make the most of the world of professional service

colours available, with a view to emphasising your own personal

CATHERINE NAIL COLLECTION

cosmetics!

look.

On trade fair Sunday, 18 October, you can look forward to three

The current list of exhibitors may be found at www.beauty-fairs.de/

The make-up star works with the most famous photographers,

fantastic fashion presentations by powerful personalities. Just visit the

munich

accompanies film and television productions and has made up the

BEAUTY POINT from 2.00 to 3.00 pm, to see Natascha Ochsenknecht,

EXCITING STAGE SHOWS

world’s top models. He opened his first business in Munich in 1981. His

the Catherine Lifestyle Collection and survival artist and founder of the

BEAUTY FORUM MUNICH is approaching its 30th anniversary,

exclusive make-up line has been on the market since 1997, and is

Fuck Cancer campaign, Myriam von M, together with their fashion

and it is celebrating the occasion in style – with fabulous show acts and

represented in many countries.

Horst Kirchberger also enjoys

ranges. As a former cancer patient, Myriam von M is committed to

great names in the industry. The BEAUTY FORUM team wishes you a

international success as an author and speaker.

cancer relief. With her latest project – a nail varnish selection for the

lot of fun in sampling this year’s event highlights.

GLORIOUS HAIR

Catherine Nail Collection – the myAid award winner is demonstrat-

MAKE UP LIKE A PROFESSIONAL

Star hairdresser Christian Siferlinger is

ing her courage, and above all showing how you can brighten

Horst Kirchberger has been a makeup stylist for all the greats – Claudia

a master of his profession – for more than 36 years, he has been

everyday living with all the colours of the rainbow.

Schiffer, Nadja Auermann, Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford, Linda

giving his customers the latest trendy styles. On trade fair Saturday, 17

28TH INTERNATIONAL MAS-

Evangelista... He has a unique way of understanding a woman’s type

October, you can experience the boss of the Munich Hair Academy

TERS' AWARD MAKE-UP 2015

with maximum accuracy, and underlining her natural features with

live with his show Trendstyles 2015, powered by Paul Mitchell. What

Swing music will be in the air at the 28th International Masters' Award for

6 | September-October 2015 | Beauty & Fashion World

Make-up on Saturday, 17 October. The event will be entirely under the

Our special service to you!

auspices of the Twenties. Winners of the various national BEAUTY FORUM Make-up Awards will be fighting it out. Experience this exciting international

Free-of-charge entry to BEAUTY FORUM MUNICH for Indian visitors!

Special offer for companies – 2nd BEAUTY FORUM connect!

championship live!

For the anniversary edition of BEAUTY FORUM MUNICH we'll invite you once 30th BEAUTY FORUM MUNICH Save the date! 17th / 18th of October 2015 Location: Messe München International, Munich/Germany

again to the BEAUTY FORUM connect – Matchmaking Event! BEAUTY FORUM connect is your platform for effective b2b networking & matchmaking.

The 2nd BEAUTY FORUM connect - Matchmaking Event will take place on the

Opening times: Saturday, 9.00h – 18.00h; Sunday, 9.00h – 17.00h Organised by: Health and Beauty Germany GmbH, www.beauty-fairs.de/

30th BEAUTY FORUM MUNICH 2015 on 17th and 18th October 2015.

munich

The BEAUTY FORUM connect platform is free of charge for exhibitors of 30th BEAUTY FORUM MUNICH! All information: www.connect.beauty-forum.com

Beauty & Fashion World | September-October 2015 | 7

THE PROMOTION PROGRAM OF THE NETWORK COSMOPROF WORLDWIDE BOLOGNA ABROAD IS STARTING among the Italian and foreign trade fairs, thanks to the 2,493 exhibitors, 70% among them coming from foreign countries, and 248,000 visitors (+20% compared to 2014), 79,000 of them coming from abroad (+30% compared to 2014).

These results pushed the Italian Ministry of Economic Development and ICE to start a rich program of activities called “International Country Program”.

A specific media plan focused on selected international magazines and “on the road” events in the most important markets for the beauty sector will consolidate the international leadership of the Cosmoprof network and they will appeal to new key players and buyers. The events will be organized with the collaboration of Cosmetica Italia.

After the first iniatiative in New York on September 16th and 17th with Cosmopack International Business Forum & Exhibition and the successful B2B meetings of the beauty industry in Latvia and Lithuania on September 21st and 23rd, the International Country Program of Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna will land at Indonesia (October 8th and 9th), South Africa (October 29th and 30th), China (Bejing, November 16th and 17th), Taiwan (Taipei, November 18th and 19th), India (December 1st and 2nd) and Iran.

The International Country Program will continue in March 2016 with interesting initiatives scheduled abroad to promote the special edition Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna 2017, which will celebrate its 50th anniversary.

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he promotion program of the network Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna abroad is starting in these days.

Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna is the international hub of the full spectrum of the beauty supply chain, organized by the Group Bologna Fiere, and it is held in Bologna (Italy), Las Vegas (Cosmoprof North America) and Hong Kong (Cosmoprof Asia).

Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna is the most international show 8 | September-October 2015 | Beauty & Fashion World

Bologna Fiere Cosmoprof and ICE will work together to enhance the “International Buyer Program”, the consolidated strategic initiative of Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna which aims at facilitating the business relationships between exhibitors and international buyers, based on a scheduled agenda of B2B meetings with top importers and distributors of the most important markets for the beauty sector. Thanks to the support of ICE’s network abroad, selected buyers from Azerbaijan, Kazakhstan, South Korea, Israel, India, Indonesia, Mozambique, South Africa, Brazil e Chile will be invited to Bologna to attend the exhibition.

Herbal remedies: 20 health benefits of neem

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eem tree has been de scribed in Ayurveda's prime text, the Charaka Samhita, as sarva roga nivarini (that which keeps all diseases at bay) or arishtha (reliever of disease).

itching, strengthens hair and promotes hair growth.

Its extracts have been used in the Ayurvedic tradition for thousands of years for maintaining health and overall well-being. The roots, bark, gum, leaves, fruit, seed kernels and seed oil are all used in therapeutic preparations for both internal and topical use.

1. Neem, a tree native to India, is a vital ingredient in Ayurveda.

Regarded as a 'one tree pharmacy', the Neem tree has several medicinal uses and forms an integral part of home remedies for the hair and skin.

5. It also soothes irritation, prevents dryness and flaking.

2. Neem leaf has antifungal and antibacterial properties, making it effective in treating dandruff.

3. It also relieves dryness and

4. Traditionally, neem paste has been used to condition the hair and scalp.

6. Neem is mentioned in most Ayurvedic formulations for the treatment of skin disorders because of its detoxifying properties.

7. The growth of acne-causing bacteria such as propionibacterium acnes (P. acnes) and staphylococcus epidermidis is also inhibited by neem.

8. The role of neem in acne is further supported by studies which have shown that it exhibits anti-inflammatory activity by suppressing P. acnesinduced reactive oxygen species (ROS) and the pro-inflammatory

cytokines TNF-a and IL-8.

9. Neem oil and neem leaves are excellent skin care ingredients. The oil relieves dry skin and soothes itchiness, redness and irritation.

10. It also improves general skin health and immunity, combating bacterial infections such as acne, boils and ulcers.

11. Its antimicrobial properties help heal wounds without causing any infections or septic conditions.

12. For acne, neem tackles bacteria from the root and prevents the recurrence of pimples and blemishes.

13. It is especially beneficial for skin disorders like eczema and minor skin infections. Neem leaves also eliminate acne-causing bacteria.

14. It is also a gastro protective

element and effective in healing ulcers.

15. It contains high level of antioxidants that help protect skin from environmental damage and from aging.

16. Neem oil contains fatty acid and vitamin E that gets absorbed easily into the skin, it helps rejuvenate skin cells and restore elasticity.

17. It helps maintain a glowing skin and balance skin tone.

18. The high fatty-acid content in neem oil helps prevent and treat scars from acne.

19. Neem leaves are also excellent exfoliants; it tightens pores and removes impurities when used as a mask.

20. It is an excellent healer of skin fungal infections.

Beauty & Fashion World | September-October 2015 | 9

Beautyworld Japan THE LARGEST TRADE FAIR FOR THE BEAUTY & SPA INDUSTRIES IN JAPAN Tokyo Big Sight - 16 – 18 May 2016

Beautyworld Japan brings its 19th edition in focus 80% of exhibition space occupied already

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eautyworld Japan will return to Tokyo Big Sight East Halls 3, 4, 5 and 6 from 16 – 18 May 2016 to showcase a variety of products, services, techniques and information related to the fields of cosmetics, aesthetics, nail and beauty equipment for salons, as well as healing, diet and healthcare products from around the world.

The largest international trade fair for the industry in Japan is now calling for innovative enterprises for its 19th edition.

Since its debut in 1998, Beautyworld Japan has grown steadily and built its reputation as the acclaimed ‘must-attend’ professional event for information exchange, marketing, trading and education, serving the scope of the beauty industry not just in Japan but throughout the Asia-Pacific region. This year, the fair attracted 538 exhibitors from 14 countries and regions, as well as 65,533 visitors from 34 countries and regions, and showed an outstanding boost in visitor numbers from Korea, China and Taiwan.

Beautyworld Japan serves the entirety of the industry chain by dividing the fair into two major areas by distribution routes; ‘Salon business area’ and ‘Retail business area’, and each area is zoned by product categories. Eight zones, ‘Cosmetics’, ‘Business support’, Diet & health’, ‘Hair’, ‘Beauty equipment’, ‘OEM & packaging’, ‘Spa & wellness’ and ‘Eyelash’ belong to ‘Salon business area’ for

buyers from aesthetic salons, hairdressing salons, hotels & spas and leisure facilities. While ‘Retail business area’ has three zones of ‘Cosmetics & beauty equipment’, ‘Natural & organic’ and ‘Beauty supplement’ for buyers from retail distributors, such as department stores, cosmetic shops, drug stores and mail order houses. These areas and zones enable visitors to find their target exhibitors and products easily in the large venue.

According to a survey conducted at the 2015 edition, 90% of exhibitors were satisfied with the meetings they held onsite with visitors who had partial or full purchasing authority. More than 96% of both exhibitors and visitors expressed their intention to return to the fair next year. These positive results reflect the marked progress in exhibitor acquisition for the next edition; at the moment 80% of total exhibition space has already been booked.

A special highlight among all the concurrent events that draws much interest from the industry is ‘Main stage seminar’. It will return with a new line-up of practical topics for salon owners, beauticians, aestheticians and buyers from retail businesses, all conducted by leading lecturers. It will move from inside the exhibition hall to a separate reception hall next year in order to secure an improved environment for both lecturers and attendees to concentrate. There will be other informative events such as exhibitor presentations, overseas marketing seminars and association seminars on various themes with rich content. ‘Tokyo Nail Forum’ will take place at East Hall 3. Following the

10 | September-October 2015 | Beauty & Fashion World

great success of the previous year, the forum will cover the latest products and introduce top-class nail art techniques, through a wide range of stage events and demonstrations.

Beautyworld Japan Fukuoka, the youngest sister fair of Beautyworld in Japan, is returning for its third edition from 8 – 9 February 2016 to Fukuoka Kokusai Centre.

The sister fair, Beautyworld Japan West, will take place from 19 – 21 October 2015 at INTEX Osaka. The 10th anniversary edition of Western Japan’s largest beauty event will welcome around 260 exhibitors.

For details on Beautyworld Japan, Beautyworld Japan West, and Beautyworld Japan Fukuoka, please visit the official website at www.beautyworldjapan.com.

Beauty & Fashion World | September-October 2015 | 11

PERSONAL CARE PACKAGING MARKET TO ATTAIN A VALUE OF USD 25.77 BILLION BY 2019

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ransparency Market Research announced the publication of a new market study on the global personal care packaging market, estimating it to attain a value of USD 25.77 billion by 2019 at a CAGR of 4.3% between 2013 and 2019. The report also signifies the historical value of the market, determining it to be valued at US$19.26 billion in 2012.The report, titled “Personal Care Packaging Market - Global Industry Analysis, Size, Share, Growth, Trends and Forecast 2013 - 2019�, determines that the rising demand for personal care products is driving the worldwide personal care packaging market.

Other than this, the market is also stimulated by innovation in designs of the packaging items. On the other hand, the rising number of regulations imposed by several governments for the manufacturing and packaging of personal care products are limiting the growth of this market. However, the increasing consumer base for personal care products in BRIC nations is presenting novel opportunities for the participants of the global personal care packaging market.

The report evaluates the global market for personal care packaging on the basis of products, applications, and the regional segments of the global market. The markets for flexible packaging, paper, rigid plastics, metal, glass, and others such as nonwoven fabrics and cardboards are the key product segments of the personal care packaging market.

By application, the markets for hair care, skin care, cosmetics, bath and shower, and others such as oral care, wipes, and cotton pads are the main components of this market.

Among the product-based

segments, flexible packaging and rigid plastics collectively accounted for more than 80% of the overall market in 2012. In current times, flexible packaging is highly demanded from both manufacturers and consumers of personal care products, due to which the flexible packaging market is expected to register the fastest growth over the forecast period.

Among the application segments, the skin care packaging market acquired the leading position in 2012 owing to the soaring need for better preservation of skin care products. The market for hair care packaging stood second that year.

Currently, awareness pertaining to hair care is rising among consumers and is in turn fueling the hair care packaging market. On account of this, this market segment is estimated to report the most rapid development, at a CAGR of 4.3%, during the forecast period.

Regionally, the personal care packaging market in Asia Pacific topped the global market in 2012.

The market is expected to retain its dominance and reach a value of US$14.30 billion by the end of the forecast period.

The steady improvement in economic conditions in Russia, South Africa, Brazil, and other developing nation of the Asia Pacific region is likely to trigger the demand for personal care products, in turn stimulating the demand for personal care packaging, over the forecast period.

The report also provides an analysis of the competitive landscape of the global care packaging market, profiling the major companies operating in this industry. Albea, Ardagh, Amcor Ltd., Bemis Co. Inc., Gerresheimer, Bormioli Rocco, and Hindustan National Glass &

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Industries Ltd. are some of the major players in the global personal care packaging market.

The major segments of the global personal care packaging market are:

• Rigid plastics • Paper • Glass • Metal • Others (Includes nonwoven fabrics, cardboards, etc.)

By Product

By Application

• Flexible packaging

• Skin care

• Hair care • Bath & shower • Cosmetics • Others (Includes oral care, cotton pads, wipes, etc.)

By Region • North America • Europe

• Asia Pacific • Rest of the World

Visit!

Beauty Forum Munich 17-18 October, Munich

Beauty & Fashion World | September-October 2015 | 13

BASF at Makeup in Paris 2015: Showcases New Pigments for Decorative Cosmetics Manager at BASF Personal Care Europe.

A NEW GENERATION OF GOLD SYNTHETIC MICA

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ollowing extensive market research, BASF has identified the most influential cultural drivers set to impact the beauty trends in 2016 and beyond. The company addresses its findings at this year’s MakeUp in Paris trade show from June 18 to 19 at the Carrousel du Louvre – introducing tailored products and solutions that help manufacturers of decorative cosmetics leverage the opportunities these trends bring with them.

“We have been keeping a close eye on regional and global developments, as well as the latest fashion shows, so we can help our customers create products and brand experiences that will really resonate with consumers,” said Valerie Pian-Parison, Marketing

Celebrating a sense of timeless beauty, the “Ancient Wisdom” trend from BASF’s “Color Trends 2016” – a collection of effect pigments and formulations – is based on the ancient world’s ideals of beauty. It also calls for aesthetics inspired by the Renaissance and Romantic eras, which were reflected in the spring fashion shows – with illuminated cheeks, gold leaf accents and bronze glows. In 2016, gold shades will play a key role. In response to this, BASF has expanded its portfolio of gold pearls to include Chione™ Celestial Gold – a new generation of gold synthetic mica. It helps create a pure, white shade of gold and a shimmering glow and shine in various cosmetics.

PREVIEW OF BASF’S “COLOR TRENDS 2017” Meanwhile, BASF’s “Color Trends 2017” anticipate that metallic shades of gold will continue to be extremely relevant – but with the focus shifting to bronze, platinum, and champagne. In an exclusive preview of the coming effect pigment collection, BASF is also unveiling a selection of colors

14 | September-October 2015 | Beauty & Fashion World

inspired by the jazzy hues found in nature: “ALIVE” features saturated, intense colors such as luscious greens, bold blues, and popping pinks reminiscent of juicy berries and vibrant fruits.

CUTTING-EDGE LOOKS WITH COLOR TRAVEL PIGMENTS In the latest fashion trends, classic cuts are being reinterpreted with iridescent tissue, bringing a touch of vitality and vibrancy to timeless styles. BASF’s color travel pigments enable manufacturers to capitalize on this trend in both the cosmetics and personal care segments: Harnessing the latest pigment technology, the ReflecksTM MultiDimensions and MultiReflectionsTM ranges create a dramatic sparkle effect and visual dimensionality, and make eyecatching color travel effects possible.

BASF REPRESENTED AT “INNOVATION TOUR” AND MAKE-UP ARTIST COMPETITION With its “Luminous Skin Serum to Oil”, which is characterized by a milky texture and a hint of gold, BASF is also represented at the trade show’s “Innovation Tour.” This special exhibition space is dedicated to new solutions selected by the “MakeUp Innovation Tour” jury. In

addition, BASF will support the first “MakeUp in Paris Boxing Ring”: Under the leadership and arbitration of the Brazilian Make-up Artist Mily, students of Make-up Atelier Paris will use the BASF effect pigments Chione™ Celestial Gold, ReflecksTM Multidimension Glistening Gold, Chione™ Pixel White and Cloisonné® Vivid Red to illustrate the themes “Roaring Twenties,“ “the Demimonde Years“ and “from the Flower Power Years to the Palace Years.“ ABOUT BASF BASF creates chemistry – and have been doing so for 150 years. Its portfolio ranges from chemicals, plastics, performance products and crop protection products to oil and gas. As one of the world’s leading chemical companies, it combines economic success with environmental protection and social responsibility.

Through science and innovation, it enables its customers in nearly every industry to meet the current and future needs of society. Its products and solutions contribute to conserving resources, ensuring nutrition and improving quality of life.

It has summed up this contribution in its corporate purpose: It creates chemistry for a sustainable future.

BASF and Solazyme Introduce Dehyton® AO 45, an Algal Betaine Surfactant for Cosmetics

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ASF and Solazyme, Inc., a renewable microalgae oil and ingredients company, announce the launch of the first commercial surfactant derived from microalgae oil, a high performance algal betaine for use in home and personal care applications.

Commercialized by BASF under the trade name Dehyton® AO 45, algal betaine is a betaine surfactant made from renewable microalgae oil. The new algal betaine is a highperformance alternative to amidopropyl betaine in products that require rich and gentle foam such as shampoos, liquid soaps, hand dishwashing liquids, and other applications. Amidopropyl betaines are amphoteric surfactants increasingly used in cosmetic, toiletry and home care applications due to their vast benefits and are known to have: good detergency, good foam properties and foam stabilization, hard water compatibility, mildness to skin and hair, ability to reduce irritation of anionic systems, viscosity building, conditioning effect, stability

at a broad range of pH, and excellent biodegradability.

Dehyton® AO 45 is produced with Solazyme AlgaPur™ Microalgae Oils.

AlgaPur™ Oils are produced with Solazyme's state-of-the-art technology in a matter of days, using a highly controlled fermentation process to convert sugarcane into oils of the highest purity and performance. AlgaPur™ Microalgae Oils are produced with low carbon, water and land use impact.

"Consumer demand for sustainable and innovative surfactants has increased significantly, particularly in the home and personal care markets," said Josef Koester, Director Marketing Home and Personal Care, Sustainability Care Chemicals, BASF North America. "Combining BASF's chemistry expertise with Solazyme's unique range of renewable microalgae oils allows us to deliver products that meet this demand."

"We are excited to partner with BASF to launch the world's first commer-

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cial microalgae-derived betaine surfactant." said Robert Webber, Chief Commercialization Officer, Solazyme. "BASF's broad capabilities in chemical conversion of triglyceride oils and deep expertise in surfactants enable significant growth opportunities in the future."

About Solazyme Solazyme, Inc. develops and sells innovative, sustainable, highperformance oils and ingredients that are better for people and better for the planet. Starting with microalgae, the world's original source of oil, Solazyme creates renewable oils and ingredients that serve as the foundation for healthier foods; high-performance industrial products; unique home and personal care solutions; and more sustainable fuels. Headquartered in South San Francisco, Solazyme's mission is to solve some of the world's biggest problems with one of the world's smallest and earliest life forms: microalgae.

About BASF BASF creates chemistry - and have been doing so for 150 years. Its portfolio ranges from chemicals, plastics, performance products and crop protection products to oil and gas. As one of the world's leading chemical companies, it combines economic success with environmental protection and social responsibility. Through science and innovation, it enables its customers in nearly every industry to meet the current and future needs of society.

Its products and solutions contribute to conserving resources, ensuring nutrition and improving quality of life. It has summed up this contribution in its corporate purpose: It creates chemistry for a sustainable future. BASF had sales of over €74 billion in 2014 and around 113,000 employees as of the end of the year.

Easy Availability of Natural Resources Drives Malaysia Organic Cosmetics Market

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he organic cosmetics market in Malaysia is anticipated to expand at a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 9.7% during the forecast period 2014-2020, and reach a valuation of US$ 533.3 Mn, according to a research report “Organic Cosmetics Market: ASEAN Industry Analysis and Opportunity Assessment 2014-2020.”

The economic drivers for Malaysia organic cosmetics market include availability of abundant natural resources, strong production capabilities, increasing disposable income, liberalization of trade, and rapid urbanization.

Availability of abundant natural resources is helping manufacturers easily. FMI opines that the easy availability of raw materials used in the manufacture of organic cosmetics will prompt global brands to set up their manufacturing units in Malaysia. Furthermore, robust production and logistics system is another economic driver for Malaysia organic cosmetics market.

Malaysia, like other countries in the ASEAN, has been witnessing a period of economic progress, and this has translated into upward mobility of its citizens. The rise in disposable income has meant that people are spending more on quality products. These trends have augured well for the prospects of

the ASEAN organic cosmetics market in Malaysia.

Malaysia’s open and outward oriented trade policy is another economic driver for the organic cosmetics market. Malaysia aims to become a high-income country by 2020, and is developing bilateral trade and commerce with a host of nations and economic groups. FMI expects Malaysia’s open trade policy to boost the import/export of organic cosmetics products.

Natural Cosmetics Other economic factors driving the Malaysia organic cosmetics market include rapid urbanization in the country. The move from countryside to cities is marked by a drastic change in buying behaviors. FMI expects the rising urbanization trend to have a positive impact on the Malaysia organic cosmetics market.

Consumer Awareness Key to Demand for Organic Cosmetics in Malaysia In addition to the above-mentioned economic drivers, consumer awareness is another key factor driving the demand for organic cosmetics in Malaysia. Awareness about the potential health risks of cosmetics with artificial ingredients has prompted many consumers to seek alternatives, and organic cosmetics have become the

20 | September-October 2015 | Beauty & Fashion World

preferred choice.

reach a valuation of US$ 112.2 Mn.

Malaysia is a Muslim majority country, and many consumers in the country are looking for those cosmetics that have Halal (permissible) ingredients.

According to FMI, many manufacturers have realised the potential for Halal cosmetics market, and in a bid to consolidate their position, they are integrating the concepts of both Halal and organic in their products.

Hair care product category of Malaysia organic cosmetics market was worth US$ 54.8 Mn in 2014. FMI expects this segment to expand at a CAGR of 10.3% through 2020, owing to increase in prevalence of hair fall among Malaysian consumers.

FMI has broadly segmented the Malaysia organic cosmetics market into skin care, hair care, makeup, fragrance, toiletries, and others.

On the basis of distribution channels, FMI has segmented the Malaysia organic cosmetics market into department stores, franchise outlet, beauty specialist salon, direct sales, chemist/pharmacies, and online retail.

Among these aforementioned segments, the demand for makeup products is robust in Malaysia, with this product category accounting for nearly 28% share of Malaysia organic cosmetics market in 2014. FMI forecasts strong demand for makeup products during the forecast period 2014-2020.

Among these aforementioned segments, franchise outlet and beauty specialist salons accounted for nearly 53% of the total sales. On the other hand, the sales of organic cosmetics through online retail is anticipated to witness a CAGR of 9.8% during the forecast period 2014-2020.

Skin care is another dominant product category in the Malaysia organic cosmetics market. The skin care segment accounted for a share of 21% in 2014; FMI expects this product category to expand at a CAGR of over 9% through 2020 and

“Consumer trust is a huge asset in the beauty care industry. It is really empowering to receive this award and to see Schwarzkopf outperform some of the country’s most highly regarded brands,” Hamilton said.

For the past 14 years, the Reader’s Digest Trusted Brands survey has investigated which brands in Australia have the best reputation among consumers and why.

Schwarzkopf is one of Henkel’s top three brands – alongside laundry brand Persil and adhesives brand Loctite – and generated around 2 billion euros in sales last year. The brand is a global hair expert in both the retail and professional businesses.

About Henkel Henkel operates worldwide with leading brands and technologies in three business areas: Laundry & Home Care, Beauty Care and Adhesive Technologies.

Founded in 1876, Henkel holds globally leading market positions both in the consumer and industrial businesses with well-known brands such as Persil, Schwarzkopf and Loctite. Henkel, headquartered in Düsseldorf / Germany, has some 47,000 employees worldwide and counts among the most internationally aligned German-based companies in the global marketplace.

CONSUMER SURVEY REVEALS HENKEL’S SCHWARZKOPF AS AUSTRALIA’S MOST TRUSTED BRAND Schwarzkopf was named Australia’s Most Trusted Brand in hair care for 2015, taking the top spot in the highly competitive category, in the Reader’s Digest Trusted Brands Survey. More than 2,400 Australians voted in the survey. Every year, Reader’s Digest asks Australians what guides their buying choices. A trusted brand is a wellknown, reliable and useful brand that consistently offers 22 | September-October 2015 | Beauty & Fashion World

both quality and substance.

The Henkel Beauty Care team was delighted by the result, improving the previous result of “Highly Commended” brand received over the last two years, said Junior Brand Manager Rebecca Hamilton.

UK cosmetics manufacturing market to be worth ÂŁ2.32 billion in 2019

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he UK cosmetics manufacturing market has been forecast to increase at a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 0.6% over the next five years, increasing from a value of ÂŁ2.25 billion in 2013-14, to reach a value of ÂŁ2.32 billion in 2018-19.

New products recently introduced include eco-ethical products, along with new natural and organic products, partly in response to increasingly sophisticated consumer tastes and the rise of the ethical consumerism movement.

Perfume and cosmetics have a long history. By the 18th century the use of cosmetics and toiletries was common among most social classes and by the end of the 19th century the industry was associated with

iconic names such as Rimmel, Boots, Elizabeth Arden, Chanel and Max Factor: brand names that still exist today.

In line with its mature status, the UK cosmetics manufacturing industry has undergone a period of consolidation in recent years, as several players have left the industry.

Other global players have sought to close down UK manufacturing facilities in the face of intensifying international competitive pressures, as players from new geographic markets have entered the international arena.

At the UK manufacturing level the industry is considerably smaller, reflecting in part the global nature of the industry and the dominance of established global players that conduct their operations on a

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worldwide scale. Despite its maturity, the industry will continue to regain some lost ground in the next five years. Technological advances will remain a key driving force, as will the willingness of UK consumers to buy an increasing range of complex formulated products,multifunctional products and green products, which are expected to become more mainstream.

Product innovation will remain at the core of stimulating demand in a mature market environment. As a heavily consumer-focused industry, operators must consider the impact of their commercial operations, and this will lead to downward pressure on carbon emissions and use of harmful products.

Our happy flower collection upcoming spring-/ summer 2015 is becoming bloomy-fresh! Colour combinations mirror the awakening attitude to life which one can feel with the first mild sunrays coming out. Simple, but bold colours of the nature will be discovered new. A cool shade of blue, fresh lemon-yellow, bright orange, soothing peach – nude or gaudy shades of pink and red. Are you keen for sun and fun? Show your colours and spread summer mood! Contact: Tel. +49 (0) 6051-92260, www.akzent-direct-gmbh.com

5

ways saffron or kesar can give you skin like a queen’s

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affron has been a beauty ingredient of the royals for many centuries. Though it is now very expensive, it can be sparingly used in face packs. It has excellent purifying properties as well as is anti-bacterial in nature. It also lightens the skin tone. If buying saffron is too expensive for you, try some of the herbal creams and lotions with saffron as an ingredient.

milk get its colour and other benefits. Add a teaspoon of sandalwood powder or chandan to this and apply the pack on your face and neck. Keep it for 15-20 minutes before washing it off. Regular use of this pack will help improve and brighten your skin tone. Did you know you can brighten your skin with almonds?

TO REMOVE TAN

FOR GLOWING SKIN The skin tends to get dry and dull in the winters. In order to get its glow back, make a pack using saffron and honey. Take a spoonful of honey and add a few strands of kesar in it.

Mix it and apply on the face. The hydrating properties of honey and the healing properties of saffron improve blood circulation adding the glow back to the skin. Here’s how to get glowing skin with these 10 face packs.

FOR SKIN BRIGHTENING Soak a few strands of saffron in milk for a good half-an-hour to let the

Soak saffron in milk cream or malai and steep overnight. Blend this in the morning with your fingers and apply on the affected area. This will lighten your tan effectively. It has the added benefit of adding a glow to your skin as well. Read about five natural remedies to remove suntan.

TO TONE THE SKIN A toner is used after cleansing the skin. If you want a natural one, mix saffron in rose water and let it give its colour to it. After that, dab it on the face with a cotton ball. Many women add strands of saffron to their hot bath water and bathe in it.

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This keeps the skin look young for a longer time. Here are seven kitchen scraps you can use for your face packs.

TO GET RID OF ACNE If your skin is prone to pimples, make a paste of saffron and tulsi leaves (basil) by grinding the two. Its anti-bacterial properties will help reduce the infection. Apply it on the acne and blemish and leave it to dry before washing it off with water. But you will need regular application for the acne to disappear.

HOW TO STORE KESAR Even a small quantity of saffron is expensive so it is important that you store it well. Keep it in an air-tight container (preferably glass) in a cool, dark place to avoid the effect of moisture and light on it. If stored properly, you can use it for several years before it loses its colour and properties.

HOW TO SPOT REAL SAFFRON A spice like saffron has many fake

versions so it is important to be a bit careful in order to not get duped.

Many vendors sell low quality kesar mixed with coloured ingredients that resemble saffron. Remember, the highest quality of saffron is deep red with orange tips. It does not have any white or yellow spots.

Another way to detect real saffron is to soak it in water. See how long it takes for the colour to change and the sweet aroma to spread. Real saffron will at least take 15 minutes for these to happen while fake, coloured ones will give out the colour immediately without much aroma. Though saffron is also available in the powdered form, buy the strands as it is difficult to spot if the powder is pure or adulterated.

Top Skincare 10 tips for the summer 1. Stay hydrated. Your body tends to lose a lot of moisture in the summer, so it’s important to regularly replenish the H2O. Drink a lot of water and liquids and your skin will stay soft and moisturised as well.

2. Sun protection. If you can, try and stay indoors between 11am and 3pm. That’s when the sun’s rays are the strongest and can have an adverse effect on your skin. Also, don’t forget to apply that allimportant sunscreen 30 minutes before you step out. If you’ve been out in the sun for a few hours, touch it up again so you’re well protected.

What should you look for when shopping for a sunscreen? Find out.

3. Use a toner. It’s important to keep your pores closed and skin cool by using a toner. Look for a brand that suits you or try rose water. Its natural cooling properties make it an excellent toner for the hot season.

4. Go for a water-based moisturiser.

Don’t make the mistake of skipping the moisturising routine altogether as its essential for your skin to remain hydrated. However, if you find your

regular moisturiser too oily, go for a water-based one.

5. Ditch those aerated drinks. Most people have the tendency to reach out for an ice cold aerated drink to quench their thirst on a really hot day. However, it’s important to remember that these drinks are full of sugar that is not good for your skin or your figure. Instead drink some water, fresh lime, fresh fruit juices, aam panna (green mango drink) or coconut water to stay hydrated. It’s also best to minimise the intake of diuretics like alcohol and caffeine as they reduce the water from your system.

Try this simple one using 4 to 5 tbsps of gram flour, a pinch of turmeric, 5 – 6 drops of rose water and milk or yoghurt. Mix it into a paste and use it to exfoliate your face. Follow it up with a facemask and moisturiser.

8. Don’t like your tan? Gram flour can also be used as a facemask to get rid of an uneven tan. Mix it with yoghurt and a few drops of lemon and apply and leave it on your face till it’s dry. The citrus properties of the lemon are very effective in removing the tan.

6. Cleanse your face twice a day. At least! This is important to do even if you’ve been home all day and feel like your skin is clean. Cleansing and moisturising your skin before sleeping is an absolute must.

9. Get that warm, summer glow.

Papaya is full of natural goodness and you can even use it as a homemade pack. Just mash 2 tbsp of papaya with a tsp of honey and 1 egg white. Leave the mixture on your face for about 15 minutes and enjoy the glow you get afterwards.

7. Exfoliate. More than the rest of the year, it’s really important to exfoliate your skin in the summer to remove dead skin and improve blood circulation to the face. Choose from any of the cosmetic scrubs available in the market or make one at home.

10. Cool your skin. Blending half a cucumber and 1 tbsp of yoghurt in the mixer can make another simple and effective homemade face pack.

Apply this to your face for 15 minutes and feel completely pampered.

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Bonus tip. Eat healthy, exercise and sleep well! The holy trinity of good health and glowing skin holds true for the whole year. So along with all the tips above, don’t forget to eat a balanced diet, work out for at least 45 minutes everyday and get 7 to 8 hours of sleep. Enjoy the summer!

6

tips to look beautiful this summer

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he rising temperature brings skin and hair problems with it – like rashes, acne, tanning, skin and scalp infection and split ends.

From exfoliating to avoiding chemicals, experts dole out various tips to protect skin and tresses during summer.

Sangeeta Amladi, head, medical services at Kaya Skin Clinic, recommends tips for a carefree and skin friendly summer: Screen the sun: Small exposures to sun are beneficial for the skin and essential for production of vitamin D. However, prolonged exposure to solar UV radiation may have a hazardous impact on the skin. Not all sunscreens are made alike, so SPF (Sun protection factor) 30 is best recommended for Indian skin types.

Apply sun screen 20 to 30 minutes before stepping out and ensure you wear sunscreen every day, even when you stay indoors.

Follow the essential routine: From dry air-conditioned homes to walks in the steamy and sweaty weather outside, one needs to pay special attention to summer skincare. Follow the cleansing, toning and moisturising ritual twice a day for best results.

shine and moisture. Consider switching to a gentle shampoo and use a deep conditioner to replenish the loss of moisture. Massage your hair with a mixture of coconut oil, castor and olive oil regularly to keep your hair nourished. And if you are one of them who are open to homemade remedies, whisk 2 egg yolks with 1 tablespoon of mayonnaise and apply this mask on the bottom 2/3rds of your hair.

Wash off after 15 minutes.

Happy Feet: During summers our feet become the target of a variety of potential foot maladies including eczema, fungal infections, and socially embarrassing “smelly feet”. Start with wearing an open sandal in the summer to keep your feet dry and give them a chance to “breathe”.

Your feet are subject to sunburn just like the rest of your body. Use sunscreen during the day and apply a lightweight moisturizer in the evenings.

Exfoliate: Incorporating exfoliation into your skin care regime is a must to avoid dull skin! Exfoliants remove old, dry, dead skin cells, toxins and other deposits and allow new skin cells to surface. Scrub your elbows and knees at least twice a week to get rid of dead tissues. Rub a slice of lemon with sugar every alternate day to keep them clean and to remove tan.

A foot powder is a must as it helps to soak up excessive moisture that can breed fungi and bacteria. Head for a pedicure once every week. This will keep your foot clean. Trim your toe nails to avoid dirt and dust from accumulating under your toe nails.

Hair Woes: Since hair tends to be moisture-deprived during summers, overuse of any kind of chemical and hair styling tool should be avoided.

Shampooing often results in loss of

Maintain a healthy diet: Make fruits your best friends this summer. With summers in full

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swing, it is advised that apart from drinking lots of water, a special summer diet consisting of light and healthy food would ensure a cool mind and body. To keep your skin hydrated, eat lot of fresh fruits and green vegetables. Include fruits and vegetables like bitter gourd, spinach, cucumber, watermelons, oranges, cherries, plums and lychee to your diet. They are highly nutritious with an abundant supply of fiber, vitamins, anti-oxidants and minerals.

Estée Lauder Reports Dip in Skin Care Sales & Double-digit Growth in Makeup in Fiscal 2015 Q4 The Estée Lauder Companies Inc. reported financial results for its fourth quarter and fiscal year ended June 30, 2015. For the three months ended June 30, 2015, the Company reported net sales of $2.52 billion, compared with $2.73 billion in the prior-year period. The fiscal 2014 fourth quarter included the effect of the accelerated retailer orders, described below, which created an unfavorable comparison with the fiscal 2015 fourth-quarter results.

Adjusting for the impact of the accelerated orders, net sales in constant currency for the three months ended June 30, 2015 would have increased 7%, in line with the Company’s expectations, and grew in each of the Company’s geographic regions and product categories, except skin care.

The Company’s fourth quarter sales benefited from innovative new products and growth in emerging and developed markets. The Company generated strong gains in the U.S., after adjusting for the accelerated orders, and constant

currency double-digit gains in the U.K. Double-digit constant currency increases were generated in many European emerging markets, as well as in Asia/Pacific. The Company reported net earnings of $153.0 million, compared with $257.7 million last year. Diluted net earnings per common share were $.40, compared with $.66 reported in the same prior-year period. Adjusting for the impact of the accelerated orders, diluted net earnings per common share in constant currency for the three months ended June 30, 2015 would have increased 4%.

per common share was $.24.

Excluding the impact of foreign currency translation, net sales increased 3% and diluted net earnings per common share were flat. Adjusting for the impact of the accelerated orders and the charges noted below, net sales and diluted earnings per common share in constant currency for the fiscal year ended June 30, 2015 would have increased 6% and 12%, respectively. Information about GAAP and non-GAAP financial measures, including reconciliation information, is included in this release.

One of the great strengths of our Company is our ability to successfully execute our well-defined strategy. This was clearly evident in fiscal 2015 as we once again delivered strong results despite considerable macroeconomic headwinds and challenges. For the full year, our adjusted 6% local currency sales growth met our expectations, and we exceeded our earnings per share forecast. These results speak to the strength of our underlying business across brands, product categories, geographies and channels.

For the year, the Company achieved net sales of $10.78 billion, a 2% decrease compared with $10.97 billion in the prior year. Net earnings for the year were $1.09 billion, compared with $1.20 billion last year, and diluted net earnings per common share were $2.82, compared with $3.06 reported in the prior year. For the year, the negative impact of foreign currency translation on diluted net earnings

Fabrizio Freda, President and Chief Executive Officer, said, “Today, our Company is more balanced, resilient, and agile and has demonstrated its ability to produce consistent and sustainable results.

Together with our powerful brand portfolio and financial discipline we finished our fiscal year with a strong fourth quarter, generating 7% constant currency sales growth, after adjusting for the accelerated sales orders we reported in fiscal 2014.

“Our sales grew at a faster rate than global prestige beauty, due to the success of our multiple engines of growth. Standout performances generated double-digit sales gains in most of our makeup and luxury brands and the online, specialtymulti and freestanding store channels. By geography, emerging markets, the United Kingdom and accelerated growth in certain developed markets were also key performance drivers. We strength-

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ened and diversified our portfolio with the acquisition of four uniquely positioned brands in fast-growing areas of prestige beauty. Our continued financial discipline provided additional resources to pursue high-growth opportunities and deliver strong bottom line growth.

“I am proud of our accomplishments. Importantly, we are wellpositioned for continuing growth through our unique creativity and consumer appeal for our brands and innovative products. Global prestige beauty is a dynamic industry, and we will continue to anticipate and target the areas with the greatest potential. In fiscal 2016, we expect constant currency net sales growth of 6% to 8% and double-digit earnings per share growth, after adjusting for the accelerated sales orders.”

During fiscal 2015 and 2014, the Company recorded remeasurement charges of $5.3 million and $38.3 million, equal to approximately $.01 and $.10 per diluted share, respectively, both before and after tax, related to changes in Venezu-

elan foreign currency exchange rate mechanisms. In the fiscal 2014 fourth quarter, some retailers accelerated sales orders of approximately $178 million in advance of the Company’s July 2014 implementation of its Strategic Modernization Initiative (SMI) in certain of its largest remaining locations. Those orders would have occurred in the Company’s fiscal 2015 first quarter. This amounted to approximately $127 million in operating income, equal to approximately $.21 per diluted common share. Fiscal 2014 also included adjustments associated with restructuring activities.

Mer, Bobbi Brown, Donna Karan New York, DKNY, Aveda, Jo Malone London, Bumble and bumble, Michael Kors, Darphin, GoodSkin Labs, Tom Ford, Ojon, Smashbox, Ermenegildo Zegna, AERIN, Osiao, Marni, Tory Burch, RODIN olio lusso, Le Labo, Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle and GLAMGLOW.

About Estée Lauder Companies The Estée Lauder Companies Inc. is one of the world’s leading manufacturers and marketers of quality skin care, makeup, fragrance and hair care products. The Company’s products are sold in over 150 countries and territories under brand names including: Estée Lauder, Aramis, Clinique, Prescriptives, Lab Series, Origins, Tommy Hilfiger, M•A•C, Kiton, La

Beauty & Fashion World | September-October 2015 | 33

4 Simple Homemade Remedies to Protect Your Skin from Summer Tan Do you think this summer will eat away your healthy glowing skin?

Well, looking at the scorching sun, and burning flames, I think this is the right time to protect your skin from tan and darkness. Skin care in summer calls for special attention because during the summer season the skin natural oils start flowing freely which makes the skin appear dull, oily and blemished. In addition, the increased susceptibility to the UV rays of the sun not results in skin tanning, but also increases the problems of dark patches and wrinkles. Natural remedies are the best way to remove sunburn and skin tan. Many people go out on summer vacations without proper protection. Doing this can harm your skin, as it is the most sensitive part of your body.

Tanning is one of the major problems during summer, and most people try to find a quick solution to it by using chemical laden bleach or opting from cosmetic peeling procedures. But, these quick solutions have several side effects and cause severe damage to the skin. Therefore, you should know how to protect your skin from burning summer sun with simple

home remedies that also function as natural remedy for pimple and acne removal. Check out the below article to find out how you can avoid tan in this hot summer.

THE MECHANISM OF SKIN TANNING Sun burn or sun tan is a common problem faced by all of us, and the skin can get tanned any time it is not protected by sunscreen or clothes.

The main reason behind skin tanning is a compound called melanin that is present in the skin. Our skin gets its colour thanks to melanin and people with darker skin have more melanin compares to people with lighter skin tone.

The body normally creates melanin as a response to sun exposure in order to protect he inner layers of the skin from damage. This is the reason why skin changes colour after prolonged exposure to sunlight. Other than tanning or burning, some people also get freckles and uneven patches on the skin. In severe cases, excessive exposure to UV rays of the sun or getting a fake tan using tanning lamps or tanning beds can lead to

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Melanoma, the most serious form of skin cancer caused by DNA damage.

4 Simple Homemade Remedies to Protect Your Skin from Summer Tan If you don’t take enough care from UV rays, you will end up with different shades of darkness at the end of the summer. Most of us live in an illusion that we need to burn the pockets to buy such expensive spa products that help you in lighten the tan. Not necessary, here are some quick homemade remedies that can be easily prepared but with a little patience.

LEMON AND ALOE VERA FACE PACK Lemon is one of the best citrus fruits that have rich medicinal and cosmetic benefits. No doubt, it is widely used in various skin and hair care remedies as well as skin care products. Lemon is a natural bleaching agent and an antioxidant which combats the free radicals that accumulate on skin surfaces. It is rich in vitamin C, and the intake of lemon juice would fetch you a glowing skin. Aloe Vera on the other side is a

short stemmed succulent plant that produces six antiseptics. These natural antiseptics have the super power to kill any kind of bacteria, fungi and viruses that settle on the skin due to pollution, dust and other reasons.

BENEFITS OF LEMON AND ALOE VERA FACE PACK: This is one of the most effective home remedies to remove tan.

Lemon can be used as a bleaching agent to lighten your skin tone naturally without causing any harm to it. All you need to do is juice a lemon and besides that also mash the aloe vera leaves. Mix them properly until an aromatic paste is formed. Apply this onto the tanned area of the skin and allow it to dry.

You need to apply this paste twice or thrice a day to cleanse and prevent your skin from getting tanned from time-to-time. This is also an effective cure for dark circles around eyes.

Curd and Gram Flour Face Pack Curd is basically a diary product which plays a major role in the growth of bones. It is very rich in

calcium, magnesium and other nutrients that help in strengthening your bones. Besides this, the unknown fact is that it can be used as a great exfoliating agent that removes dead skin cells and also moisturizes the skin deeply. It helps in cooling the skin that is continuously exposed to sunlight for hours.

Gram flour is widely used in whitening your skin and it really helps in giving an instant glow to your skin.

Benefits of Curd and Gram Flour Face Pack: This face pack is one of the timetested home remedies for tanning that can also be used as a scrub or exfoliator that is the most effective natural solution to the question of how to get rid of dead skin cells from the skin surface. Take curd and gram flour in equal quantities and mix well by adding lemon juice in proportions. Apply this paste to face, neck and other body parts such as hands and feet. Pat it dry and wash it with warm water. This can be applied twice a week which ultimately results in soft glowing skin.

and as a moisturizing agent for treating dry skin in summer. In summer, it is really required to keep your skin moist because the body is much subjected to dehydration.

This results in dry skin, and it loses its luster in the process. In order to overcome this, it is better to keep yourself hydrated by drinking lots of water from inside and outside too.

Make a thick paste by mixing all the three ingredients well. Apply this pack on the dried skin and leave it for 15-20 minutes. Later, rinse it off with cold water. This pack helps in moisturizing and radiating your skin under the dire circumstances.

SANDAL WOOD AND ROSEWATER FACE PACK Sandalwood has rich benefits especially when it comes to

accomplishing a fairer skin. It is used in the treatments of acne and skin aging. The soothing and cooling properties of sandalwood make it the perfect remedy for relieving sun tan and severe sunburn. Rose water is one of the best beauty products and is used in aroma therapies. It can be used as a cleanser, toner and leaves you with a refreshing feeling.

The combination of sandalwood and rose water makes this pack the perfect natural remedy for sun tan removal in a gentle and nourishing way.

BENEFITS OF SANDAL WOOD AND ROSEWATER FACE PACK: This face pack can be used as a cleanser. Make a thick paste of white or red sandalwood powder and rosewater and apply it to face. Wait

for 20 minutes and allow it to dry.

After this wash it with cold water and always use a soft towel to clean up your washed face. This paste relieves you from sun burns and other suntan effects.

The above-mentioned face packs are completely natural, and will help you in removing the tan gradually.

These above face packs will help in summer, and all other seasons accordingly. It is suggested to clean your face before applying such packs so that the dust and other small particles don’t stay inside.

Remember that you should never apply these face packs on the unclean face. Always use a soft cloth to clean your face after washing.

Helpful Skin Tips for Summer

TURMERIC POWDER, YOGURT AND HONEY FACE PACK Turmeric powder is the basic common ingredient in every kitchen and is best known antiseptic/antibacterial agent. It is used in relieving the pain and as a disinfectant that is usually caused due to cuts and burns. Turmeric is also an age old home remedy that has been used in Ayurveda to treat various skin diseases. Yogurt is a dairy product just as curd and it has a gel like texture. Honey, a sweetening agent can be considered as one of the best natural moisturizing agents that helps skin retain its supple and elastic nature. It is used in various cosmetic preparations and is an antioxidant that helps in healing wounds.

BENEFITS OF TURMERIC POWDER, YOGURT AND HONEY FACE PACK: Turmeric or holy powder used in this face pack makes it a potent homemade remedy for tan removal Beauty & Fashion World | September-October 2015 | 35

Now, you can beat the summer tan and flaunt yourshort dresses and tank tops in style without the fear of getting tanned by following these few simple skin tips for summer.

The first and foremost thing that should be listed in your summer skin care list is a good sunscreen from a reliable company with SPF of 40 or above. Applying sunscreen creams and lotions on the skin before going out into the sun helps in protecting the skin from the harsh UV-A and UV-B rays of the sun. The sunscreen lotion should be applied at least 15 to 30 minutes before going out in the sun.

Keep yourself hydrated at all times by drinking at least 15 to 20 glasses of water throughout the day. This also helps in preventing skin dryness and keeping the skin moisturized.

Specially formulated sun protection

skin should be applied by people who like to spend time in the sun or swim regularly. It helps in preventing sunburn and formation of rashes and blisters. The creams should be re-applied every 20 minutes because it can be washed away with Swimming in chlorinated water speeds up the tanning process, so it is mandatory to cleanse your skin and hair with fresh water after taking a swim in the pool.

Just like winter, it is important to use a moisturizer in summer also, but it should be a water-based moisturizer that effectively tones and moisturizes the skin without making it too oily.

It is important to keep the skin of the face fresh and clean by washing it with cold water 3 to 4 times a day, face cleansers should not be used

more than twice per day.

COLD WATER FACE WASH Toning the face with a soothing herbal toner is a natural treatment for oily skin that helps in reducing excess oil, sebum and dirt from the skin surface.

It is best to avoid going out in the sun as much as possible. You should try to avoid the sun during 11 A.M to 4 P.M because the sun rays are the harshest at this time.

Don’t apply perfume on your skin while out in the sun because the psoralen present in perfumes, especially citrus perfumes can stain your skin permanently when the react with the sun rays.

In a hurry to apply the sunscreen don’t skip your lip protection and eye creams because the skin around

your eyes and lips are really delicate that is more susceptible to tan and wrinkles.

In case you forget to apply sunscreen while going out in the sun, you can make up for the damage caused by applying natural aloe vera gel or cool green tea on your face to soothe the burnt skin.

Warm showers during the summer season can further dry out your skin ans make it susceptible to tanning.

So, opt for cool showers in order to keep the skin fresh and hydrated.

Wear mineral makeup during summer because it is lighter than the cream based ones which allow the skin to breathe and lasts longer in sweating conditions.

Usage of sunglasses, hats and other accessories minimizes the UV radiations from reaching your body.

Opt for a wide-brimmed hat instead of caps because it provides complete protection to your entire face.

WEAR CAP - TIPS FOR SUMMER When it comes to skin care, a lot depends on the right foods. Eat skin-friendly foods such as vegetables and fruits in the form of salads, steamed veggies, juices and smoothies in order to load up on antioxidants and flavonoids and reduce the intake of sugar, refined foods and processed foods.

I hope that you find this article helpful in giving you the beneficiary tips on how to get rid of tan, sunburn and other side effects. So, forget bleach and cosmetic peeling and get naturally glowing skin with these glowing skin home remedies.

Feel free to comment via the below section! Happy Summer!

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neck leaving the eyes. Let it dry and rinse with fresh water.

Home-made summer skin care

S

ummers are back with a bang...and so are countless summer skin woes! From skin ailments including sun tan, sun burn and dehydration to serious versions like blemishes, pimples and pigmentation - summers are notorious for ruining our skin. But you don't have to fret!

Take a heart and beat the heat this summer, maintaining your beauty and keeping your skin soft, supple and well nourished with these home-made summer skin care recipes...

Tired of the tan?

When wearing your summery dress becomes next to impossible thanks to changes in your skin tone due to excessive tanning, these natural bleaching agents can be used thrice a week to cleanse your face and body ...

1. Summer facial bleach Ingredients: 4 tbsp milk, 1 tbsp honey, 2 tbsp lemon juice.

Mix all the ingredients and apply the mixture evenly on the tanned areas for 15 minutes. Once dried, wash with cold water. Works best for greasy and oily skin.

2. Yogurt and honey cleanser Ingredients : 4 tbsp plain yogurt, 2 tbsp honey, 3 tbsp lime juice

Mix all the ingredients. Add a little cornstarch if you think the paste needs thickening. Apply on your face and massage for 2-3 minutes.

Rinse with cold water.

For an all- natural exfoliation...

Excessive heat added with dry winds, overheat the body and it's the face that suffers the most. The delicate tissues get damaged and the outer layer of the skin bears dirt deposits in the clogged pores leading to an excessively rough, wrinkled and dry skin. A quick and easy session of exfoliation is all that you need in case of such beauty emergencies!

You face seems to have lost its lustre? Well, here's all that you can do to get back your lost sheen and make your face smooth, soft and fresh like never before in just 20 minutes...

1. Home spa recipe Ingredients: Pineapple pulp, grapeseed oil, papaya pulp, mulethi and turmeric.

Mix all the ingredients to make a paste. Now apply a generous amount of the mixture on face and

Pimple problems...

This comes straight from your kitchen garden to bring relief to a pimple prone skin...

Ingredients: 3-4 tbspn cucumber juice, 1 tbspn lemon juice, a pinch of turmeric powder, 1 tspn sandalwood powder, mint leaves (tulsi) and basil leaves.

Mix all the ingredients and apply on your face for fifteen minutes. The pack has an overall cooling effect apart from taking out dead cells, dried sebum and infectious bacteria accumulated in the clogged skin pores.

Tone it up!

Apart from regular bleaching, cleansing, scrubbing and exfoliation, your skin requires bouts of toning during the summer season. So, instead of depending upon chemical-based toners, here's a natural toner...

Find an aloe-vera plant in your vicinity. Now, just break a leaf, break it into two and use the extract or the juice mixed with natural rose water for best skin protection from tanning and clogging. This also helps to overcome the skin allergies, rashes and itching.

(With inputs from By Dr.Naresh Arora, Chase Naturopathy and Aroma Beauty Clinic & Dr.Shobha Sehgal, Day Spa & Beauty Zone, VLCC)

1. Oatmeal exfoliating scrub Ingredients: 1 tsp fine oatmeal, 1 tsp baking soda Mix the ingredients in enough water to make a thick paste. Rub over face for 2-3 minutes, rinse and pat dry.

It's suitable for all skin types.

2. Curd and gram flour scrub Ingredients: 1 tspn gram flour, 1 tspn lemon juice, 2-3 mint leaves, toned curd, a small piece of grated carrot Mix all the ingredients to form a past and apply on your face. Rub in round motions to clean the deep rooted impurities.

Get the glow back...

Beauty & Fashion World | September-October 2015 | 37

Massive weight loss fuels surge in plastic surgery 38 | September-October 2015 | Beauty & Fashion World

A

n increase in the number

patients.

"These patients have the tremen-

of weight loss surgeries in the U.S. is beginning to

dous psychological burden of "You can't attribute that to anything

looking into the mirror and seeing all

have a ripple effect in plastic surgery,

other than the fact that there are

of this extra skin that's hanging off of

according to new data released

more massive weight loss patients

them, and no matter how much

today by the American Society of

out there looking to take care of the

weight they lose, a lot of them still

Plastic Surgeons (ASPS). Procedures

problems that they now have after

see themselves as heavy because of

specifically associated with massive

their weight loss surgery," said Dr.

it."

weight loss, including tummy tucks,

Glasberg.

thigh lifts, breast lifts and upper arm

In 2014, nearly 45,000 patients who

lifts, grew at their fastest rate in four

"On the one hand they are thrilled to

experienced massive weight loss

years in 2014, according to the

have lost so much weight, but they

also opted to undergo plastic

report. That follows a similar increase

are trading one dilemma for another."

surgery to reshape their bodies.

in the growth of weight loss surgeries.

While those numbers represent the Those who experience massive

biggest single-year increase in nearly

weight loss are often left with

a half decade, it's still only a fraction

"We think there is a correlation

excessive amounts of sagging skin,

of patients who may benefit from it.

between the two types of proce-

particularly in the thighs, under the

dures, and we expect that trend to

arms, around the abdomen and in

"Going forward, we'd like to be a

continue," said ASPS President Scot

the breasts.

part of the process from the outset,

Glasberg, MD, and private-practice

when patients are first starting to

plastic surgeon based in Manhattan,

The excess skin can not only be

consider weight loss surgery," said

New York. "Post-massive weight loss

unsightly and uncomfortable, in

Dr. Glasberg. "A lot of times patients

patients are the number one growth

many cases it can be painful.

think weight loss surgery is the

area I have seen in my practice, and

answer to their issues, when in

I'm sure that's the case in many

"It was hard for me to exercise. I

reality it may only be one step in the

doctor's offices across the country."

couldn't do aerobics or even run

process."

because the excess skin was so In 2013, 179,000 Americans

bad, and no amount of compres-

Dr. Lichten agrees. "If plastic

underwent weight loss surgery,

sion would change that," said Jan

surgeons can get involved with

averaging nearly 500 procedures

O'Daniel of Pickerington, Ohio.

patients earlier, we can not only give

every day. According to the

them a more realistic idea of what to

American Society of Metabolic and

Six years ago O'Daniel underwent

expect from a physical standpoint,

Bariatric Surgery, it's the most since

bariatric surgery and dropped more

but we can help them devise a plan

2009 and the third highest number

than 130 pounds, but no matter

for any follow up procedures after

on record. Since then, plastic

how much weight she lost, she still

their weight loss," he said.

surgeries related to weight loss are

didn't like what she saw. "I carried a

up across the board, as well.

lot of weight in my abdomen and

That's something O'Daniel wishes

felt like my stomach was just as big.

she'd done. She was so focused

Thigh lifts and upper arm lifts had

on losing the weight, she didn't

their biggest single-year increase in

Even though I knew it wasn't, even

realize there could be follow up

five years in 2014, both up nine

though I knew my clothing size had

surgeries. "I didn't realize plastic

percent. Tummy tucks inched up

gone down six sizes, I still focused

surgery was an option," she said. "I

four percent and breast lift proce-

on my belly and it absolutely drove

thought it was out of reach for me

dures posted a ten percent

me nuts."

from an affordability standpoint, but

increase, the largest single-year gain

it wasn't. I'm glad I did it, because it

since 2009, when the ASPS began

"That's not uncommon," said

tracking procedures performed

O'Daniel's plastic surgeon Jason

specifically on massive weight loss

Lichten, MD, of Lancaster, Ohio.

changed my life."

Beauty & Fashion World | September-October 2015 | 39

Mibelle to enter the Indian cosmetics market

S

witzerland-based Mibelle AG, a full-service customer brand manufacturer serving the personal care, home care and nutrition markets, is founding a joint venture with the Indian retail group Future Group (Future Consumer Enterprise Ltd.) in order to design and market new brands and product concepts for the Indian personal care market. The first products with the Swiss-Indian label should be available in India from early 2016. They will be manufactured in Switzerland and at the local factories.

Future Group is the biggest retailer in India with a branch network of over 570 outlets in 243 cities.

Future Group operates some of India’s most popular retail networks including hypermarket chain, Big Bazaar, department store, Central, gourmet food store, Foodhall and electronics and home stores, Home 40 | September-October 2015 | Beauty & Fashion World

Town and eZone, among others.

With this joint venture, Mibelle AG will be entering the Indian Personal Care market for the first time. “This is one more step in setting up the Mibelle Group as an international operator�, says the CEO Dr. Luigi Pedrocchi.

The Mibelle Group is the number three in the European proprietary brand market.

The Mibelle Group is the number three in the European proprietary brand market. The Group has around 1,000 employees and generates sales of approximately EUR 381 million.

The entity gathers the companies Mibelle AG and Mifa AG in Switzerland, and Mibelle Ltd in the UK. With the business unit Mibelle Group Brands, it is also active in the development and management of exclusive brands in the cosmetics sector. As an independently operating business unit, Mibelle Group Biochemistry is specialised in the research and development of active ingredients for cosmetic applications

Beauty’s digital pure plays go physical on the U.S. retail market consumers the convenience of shopping in physical stores and online.”

Amazon, the behemoth of all virtual pure plays, has also begun to go physical. In February 2015, the company introduced its first staffed on-campus pick-up and drop-off service at Purdue University. Amazon has also leased space in New York City which could possibly become its first retail store, as reported by the Wall Street Journal in October 2014.

TECHNOLOGY IS TRANSFORMING RETAIL According to Kline, technology is also playing a key role in transformation of the beauty-retailing environment. Many physical retailers are working to blend online and offline together through technological enhancements, such as diagnostics tools like Sephora Color IQ, augmented reality mirrors, such as the iMirror, and online tutorials. Beacon technology that informs shoppers of information and special offers when in stores is implemented by all types of physical retailers during 2014.

T

he last several years have been all about beauty marketers and retailers embracing digital. For good reason too, as e-commerce has been the fastest growing retail channel in the U.S. beauty market, advancing at a compound annual growth rate of 24% since 2009, according to the recently published Beauty Retailing USA: Channel Analysis and Opportunities report by global market research and management consulting firm, Kline.

In a turn of events, Kline observes the opposite occurring in 2014, as digital pure plays are increasingly expanding beyond the virtual world into the physical one.

PURE PLAYERS GO PHYSICAL Birchbox, the pioneer of online subscription sampling, opened its first physical store in New York City in 2014, followed by its first holiday pop-up shop for men later in the year. The firm has also teamed up

with Gap to bring Birchbox to seven U.S. locations through pop-up shops and recently announced it plans the opening of two new stores in 2016.

Similarly, Violet Grey, which offers edited beauty collections online, opened a store in Los Angeles, while Credo Beauty, an online natural beauty retailer, also opened its first physical location in San Francisco, hoping it will be the start of a chain and become a multichannel retailer, as Mademoiselle Bio did in France.

“The flurry of online retailers entering the physical world signifies yet another paradigm shift in beauty retailing,” notes Karen Doskow, Director of Kline’s Consumer Products practice. “While everyone else has been flocking online, online pure plays are becoming physical.

Omni-channel retailing strengthens both ways as retailers and marketers strive to offer channel agnostic

42 | September-October 2015 | Beauty & Fashion World

Despite its rapid ascension, virtual channels account for only 8% of total U.S. beauty and personal care sales while physical stores account for the vast majority, according to the Beauty Retailing USA report [1]. “This movement underscores the continued relevance of bricks and mortar in an increasingly digital world,” concludes Doskow.

Brony hair: the new trend inspired by My Little Pony

M

y Little Pony has been around since the Eighties, but the toy franchise isn’t going out of fashion anytime soon.

In fact, it has even kick-started a new celebrity hair trend.

“Brony” hair is the latest style to take over Instagram. The look involves dyeing your locks the signature pastels and candy-coloured hues of the toy ponies, often mixing up different shades at the same time.

Some stars, like Katy Perry and Kelly

Osbourne, who is known for her violet crop, have been rocking the look for months, while others, such as model Georgia May Jagger, are new to the Brony scene. The daughter of Mick Jagger and Jerry Hall took to Instagram earlier this week to unveil her new ’mermazing’ look, with a photo showing off her multitoned green, pink, purple and orange locks captioned “Bronies with @alexbrownsell @bleachlondon Mermazing Hair colour.” The UK fashionista has kept

44 | September-October 2015 | Beauty & Fashion World

her roots natural and left sections of her long blond hair uncolored to keep things choppy.

Cara Delevingne was also spotted championing the look earlier this month when she stepped out with sugary pink hair.

The actress turned out to be sporting a wig — a good idea if you want to test out Brony hair without committing — but her choice of color proved the trend is hot right

now. Brony hair could be a natural progression from ’Rainbow hair’, the trend that has been sweeping the Internet all summer.

Thanks to celebrities like Kylie Jenner and Kaley Cuoco, graduated ombré styles that involve leaving the roots their natural colour and adding flashes of pastel or fluo tones to the bottom half of your tresses have been big news. The concept is both fun and practical in terms of regrowth.

Nearly six in ten US women check ingredients on their beauty products

W

hat is now commonplace in the grocery aisle has found its way to the beauty aisle: scanning the list of ingredients to avoid some of them.

According to a new study conducted by Harris Poll for natural beauty brand Kari Gran, 59 per cent of US women now scan their cosmetics for before heading to the checkout.

The “Green Beauty Barometer” survey [1] has revealed that the majority of US shoppers (59 per cent) read beauty product ingredient labels prior to purchase, while nearly 40 per cent intend to increase their spending on all-natural beauty products. “For the last several years shoppers have become more conscious about what they put in

their body through food consumption, and that’s spilled over to a greater awareness for what they put on their body,” commented Lisa Strain, co-founder of the Kari Gran skin care and makeup brand.

products. Sixty-three per cent of 1834-year-olds do the same, as to 59 percent of those aged to 45-54. The age group least likely to read the label (52 per cent) was the 55-64s.

GOING NATURAL

AVOIDING SULFATES AND PARABENS

Regarding future habits, it appears that natural beauty is becoming more of a priority for many women, with 39 per cent of participants claiming they will buy more all-natural beauty products in the next two years than they currently do.

Millennials aged 18-34 are the most likely to spend more on all-natural beauty products in the next two years, with half of them claiming they will. This is compared to 44% of women aged 35-44, 34% of women aged 55-64, 31% of women aged 45-54 and 30% of

Sulfates were the top ingredient to look out for, with 29 percent of participants seeking to avoid them.

These were followed by parabens (22 per cent), synthetic fragrances (18 per cent), PEG compounds (15 per cent) and mineral oil (11 per cent).

Women aged 35-54 are most likely to check the labels, with 65 per cent scanning the ingredients list of

46 | September-October 2015 | Beauty & Fashion World

women aged 65-plus. When asked how important it was to purchase all-natural products among particular beauty categories, skin care came out on top, with 54% of women claiming it is important their skin care product purchases are all natural.

This was followed by all-natural hair care at 49%, makeup at 40%, fragrance at 31% and nail care products at 26%.

A recent “Natural Personal Care Global Series” survey by market research company Kline found that the natural cosmetics market grew by 10.6 per cent between 2013 and 2014. Earlier this year a Nielsen survey found that 46 per cent of participants would be willing to pay more for a beauty product that claimed to be “all natural.”

The Body Shop announces plans to rejuvenate business

A

rnaud Jeanteur, General Manager of The Body Shop International, has opened up about plans to revamp the business after confessing the family favourite had ‘lost its way’.

Euro in 2013. Despite this fall, sales were back up again in 2014, reaching 1.48 billion, and with new plans in place to grow further, times could be changing for the firm favourite.

Speaking to Life in Ubud, Bali, Jeanteur confessed that the reaction to the brand in recent years has been slightly tepid, suggesting consumers see it as an ‘old friend they have lost touched with.’ With its target customer being both men and women aged between 16 and 60, the company is hoping to reignite the brand across all aspects in a bid to take back some market share of the cosmetics industry.

In a bid to bring back old consumers and win new ones, the brand is launching two new premium lines that will cost 10 to 15 per cent more than its regular range.

With 3,048 stores across 63 markets, the company is one of the world’s largest masstige cosmetics networks, however, it took a hit when the brand’s retail sales hit a slump recently, falling from 1.47 billion Euro in 2012 to 1.4 billion

The new premium range comprises of four products that are rich in skin nourishing antioxidants, oleic acids, Omega-3 and Omega-6 fatty acids.

Products within the range include Essence Lotion ($39.90), Facial Oil ($65.90), Gel Cream ($55.90) and

Jeanteur said, "The Body Shop has always been an accessible brand and it will remain so. But some customers want more sophisticated products and they are happy to pay a little more for them.”

Revitalising Cream ($55.90), made with the cold-pressed seed oils of black cumin, camellia and rosehip.

completed with some at home spa tools including a body mask brush and Thai wooden massager.

Already in the at-home-spa market with its Spa Wisdom, the brand is capitalising on this successful avenue with the launch of a new nine piece Spa of the World selection. This includes a new African Ximenia Scrub ($55.90), Himalayan Charcoal Body Clay ($36.90) and Polynesian Monoi Radiance Oil ($36.90). The range is

In a bid to get consumers to reconnect with the brand, and also to maintain the company’s roots in environmental awareness, for every Oils Of Life skin care product sold, a seed will be planted in the Cerro Blanco, the last dry forest in Ecuador. The brand aims to plant a million seeds over two years.

Beauty & Fashion World | September-October 2015 | 49

L’OREAL INDIA TO ‘BUILD BRIDGE BETWEEN TRADITIONAL RECIPES AND PRODUCTS TO MODERN COSMETICS’

L

’Oreal India Managing Director Jean-Christophe Letellier has suggested that the company would like to build bridges between traditional recipes and products to modern cosmetics, while capitalising on the ‘India beauty market growth story.’

While speaking to The Business Standard in an interview Letellier suggested that the rise of the Indian middle class, especially the lower middle class, is playing a part in the growth of beauty in India.

While the young demographic dividend of India - the 13 to 18 year-

olds, who are digital natives, are more eager risk-takers. While also factoring the explosive growth of eCommerce in the country.

Attributing much of the company’s growth to the urban metros areas, Letellier has suggested L’Oreal has made moves to embrace the rising middle class, with the company in 700,000 doors. However, the company is still a strong presence for the ‘upper socio-economic classification.’

As a staunch supporter of the ‘Make in India’ directive, the company sources and produces 90 per cent

50 | September-October 2015 | Beauty & Fashion World

of its portfolio locally and has invested in two R&D centres in Mumbai and Bengaluru in the last two years. However, the luxury products are still sourced internationally.

And with unbranded products having a stronghold on the market, Letellier says it plans to challenge this competition due to the market moving towards an upgradation, so the company is ‘having to bring the best of efficacy, quality and safety to a larger number of consumers beyond the top-end.’

In terms of market share, Letellier holds make up, facewashes, malegrooming and deodorants as fast moving areas, with the company holding a 25 per cent market share for male grooming and a growth rate of 30 per cent for make up. Indeed, with more men than women in India, Letellier holds great hope for growth in this market.

With India still deeply rooted in traditional receipes and products, Letellier has suggested the company would like to be able to bridge a gap between these and modern cosmetics.

Chinese cosmetic’s company sets sights on North America

P

remium cosmetics brand Herborist, owned by Jahwa, is set to launch in North America in a bid to capitalise on the market with its Chinese traditional medicine techniques.

Subrina Liu, Head of Marketing for the company, hopes to balance the needs of Chinese and Western consumers and is touted to move to the US to spearhead the launch of the brand in the North American market.

The premium cosmetic brand was created more than 110 years ago in Shanghai and is rooted in traditional medicines. It ranks number one in the natural segment according to China Market Monitor, while its light green packaging also has Taoist roots with yin-yang imagery created

by Chinese designers.

Despite being popular amongst Chinese consumers, the traditional cosmetics concept is largely lost amongst western women. However, the brand has a niche following in France and is likened to companies such as L’Occitane, Biotherm and Jurlique.

Launching into the overseas market in 2008, it has a large presence in France, which in turn has strong cultural ties to Asia, with its approval standards for beauty products also being higher than most countries, including the U.S. Available in other European markets, Herborist is set to launch into the UK this summer.

Liu said, “France is famous for its skin care. If we are accepted there, it's easier to be accepted globally.

China is still the base of the brand, we have to be strong here first, but I've dreamed of making a Chinese brand international and Herborist is ready."

Beauty & Fashion World | September-October 2015 | 51

Shiseido claims to have found a cure for baldness, available from 2018

J

apan-based hair and cosmetics company Shiseido claims to have found a cure for baldness which it plans to make commercially available by 2018.

The company has patented its new RepliCel Hair-01 (RCH-01) hair regeneration technology in the entire Asian region, including Japan, which comprises approximately 2.1 billion people.

RCH-01 has been developed over 10 years of scientific research, and safe application in humans has been now been validated through clinical trials.

The treatment uses “autologous cell transplantation technology,� in which specific cells isolated from the hair follicles taken from the scalp of a patient are cultured and implanted (injected) into the balding scalp area, potentially stimulating residing hair follicles and promoting new hair growth.

The treatment has been created by scientists at The Kobe Biomedical Innovation Cluster, a biomedical research center located in Port Island, which is one of the core bases of the Kansai Innovation International Strategic Comprehensive Special Zone designated by the Japanese government to promote industrial development in advanced medicine and to provide a competitive advantage in the international market.

The Cluster is the largest national cluster zone specialized in life sciences, with the focus on promoting translation of leading scientific research and advanced knowledge in regenerative medicine into clinical use.

There are over 270 biomedical companies, academic, medical, and government organizations situated at the center working on the clinical application of regenerative medicine and the development of new pharmaceutical products and medical equipment.

52 | September-October 2015 | Beauty & Fashion World

'Hidden' fragrance compound can cause contact allergy

L

inalyl acetate, a fragrance chemical that is one of the main constituents of the essential oil of lavender, is not on the list of allergenic compounds pursuant to the EU Cosmetics Directive. Thus, it does not need to be declared on cosmetic products sold within the EU. Recent studies at the University of Gothenburg have shown that linalyl acetate can cause allergic eczema.

Sahlgrenska Academy have found that it can react with oxygen in the air to form strongly allergenic hydroperoxides. Thus, linalyl acetate may be a common cause of contact allergy.

In accordance with the EU Cosmetics Directive, makeup, ointments, shampoo, deodorants, toothpaste and other products must contain a declaration of ingredients in order for consumers to avoid the substances to which they are allergic.

"That may seem like a small percentage," says Lina Hagvall, a researcher at the University of Gothenburg. "But it is approximately the same result as for the fragrance compounds listed in the Cosmetics Directive."

Cause of contact allergy Linalyl acetate, a fragrance chemical, is an exception -- it is not listed in the Directive and does not have to appear in declarations of ingredients. The substance is mildly allergenic. New studies at

Allergic reactions The study included 1,717 subjects who were being assessed for eczema related to contact allergy. Approximately 2% of them had allergic reactions to oxidized linalyl acetate.

of tests is required to detect contact allergies to fragrance compounds," Dr. Hagvall says. "Current tests do not identify the majority of people who have contact allergy to oxidized linalyl acetate." Hard to avoid Because the substance is not declared on cosmetic products, consumers have trouble avoiding it, which can turn allergic eczema into a more severe, long-term condition.

According to the researchers, the study findings should lead to inclusion of oxidized linalyl acetate among the fragrance compounds used for diagnosis of contact allergy. The substance should also appear in the declaration of ingredients for cosmetic products.

Broad range of tests The subjects who reacted to oxidized linalyl acetate were also exposed to other fragrance compounds that are part of routine testing these days. A total of 57% of them had no allergic reaction.

"The trials suggest that a broad range Beauty & Fashion World | September-October 2015 | 53

Enzyme in cosmetic products can act as allergen via the skin

P

apain is an important industrial protein-degrading enzyme that is used, for example, in the food and cosmetic industries.

When humans or animals come in contact with papain, strong allergic reactions of the skin can be the result, as scientists from the Messerli Research Institute of the University of Veterinary Medicine Vienna, the Medical University of Vienna, and the University of Vienna have found out.

Their study was published in the Journal of Investigative Dermatology.

Papain is found naturally in papaya and is often referred to as a "plantbased pepsin" in reference to the digestive enzyme pepsin that is present in the stomach. Erika Jensen-Jarolim, Head of the Department of Comparative Medicine at the Messerli Research Institute, and her team researched the effect of papain directly on the skin of mice as well as on skin cells in the petri dish. The cosmetic

industry uses papain in exfoliating treatments to remove dead surface skin. There even are enzyme-based shampoos for house pets to clean the fur and make it easier to brush.

How papain induces allergic reactions Skin consists of several layers joined via cellular connections called "tight junctions." First authors Caroline Stremnitzer and Krisztina ManzanoSzalai and the project team showed that papain induces a breakdown of these cell-cell junctions. On the skin, papain results in a loss of the barrier function. "After just a short period of time, papain increased vascular permeability and inflammatory cells infiltrated the skin," Jensen-Jarolim explains. Around two weeks after being exposed to papain, the researchers found antibodies to papain in the mice. These immunoglobulins are the cause of the allergic reaction toward the enzyme.

54 | September-October 2015 | Beauty & Fashion World

"Exposed mice not only experienced a loss of the barrier function of the skin, but also had a specific allergic sensitization toward papain.

The animals developed an allergy," says allergy expert Jensen-Jarolim.

Caution is called for with papaincontaining products But the permeation of the skin barrier does not appear to be a prerequisite for sensitization toward papain.

"The enzyme remains allergenic even when its enzymatic function has been blocked," explains JensenJarolim. The disruption to the skin barrier, she says, is essential for the infiltration of other allergens and bacteria. In humans and in animals, diseases of the skin such as atopic dermatitis, commonly referred to as eczema, involve an increased permeability of the skin with a heightened risk for bacterial, fungal, or viral colonisation. Besides genetic factors, allergenic enzymes from

external sources may also contribute to the symptoms. It is striking that papain has an enormous structural similarity with one of the most important house dust mite allergens.

The authors conclude that sensitization toward these house dust mite allergens follows the same principle.

"People with sensitive skin as well as small children should avoid the enzyme (EC Number 3.4.22.2) as much as possible and observe the ingredients declaration for consumer products as regulated by EU Directive 2000/13/EC," says JensenJarolim.