WOW magazine Issue 1 2019 - Icelandic food by WOW air

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ICELANDIC FOOD - THE GOOD KIND / HOW TO MAKE A TRADITIONAL ICELANDIC LAMB SOUP

ISSUE ONE 2019

ICELANDIC FOOD The good kind How to make a traditional Icelandic Lamb Soup

POWER TO THE PEOPLE â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Issue one 2019

Plus: Best food stops around Iceland YOUR FREE COPY -TA K E M E W I T H Y O U

VOLCANO & EARTHQUAKE EXHIBITION

MORE INFO AND TICKETS AT

Open every day

www.lavacentre.is

9:00 - 19:00

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The Lava Centre is situated at Hvolsvöllur on the South Coast of Iceland, surrounded by active volcanoes. It truly acts as the gateway to Iceland’s most active volcanic area. It’s a must-see for anyone wanting to get a better understanding of the incredible forces that have shaped Iceland. The Lava Centre just received two Red Dot Awards, which cement its position as a world class exhibition.

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Iceland Volcano & Earthquake Centre Austurvegur 14, Hvolsvöllur · South Iceland Issue one 3

Directly opposite of the geothermal area of the great Geysir & Strokkur

litli Geysir hotel Experience a wonderful stay with a front row seat to the unique Geysir area.

Geysir Glima restaurant – Coffee house with freshly ground coffee – Sweet ice creams & cakes – Traditional Icelandic meat soup – Fish soup & vegetarian soup – Local food WWW.GEYSIRGLIMA.IS

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Beautiful Nature & Fun activities

Elegant Restaurants • Design Shop • Hotel • Souvenir Shop • Soup Vegan Restaurant • Snack Shop • Camping Area

Welcome to Geysir ONE OF THE GREATEST NATURAL ATTRACTIONS OF ICELAND

GEYSIR THE BEST PLACES TO PHOTOGRAPH ON THE PLANET POPPHOTO.COM

THE GEYSIR CENTER Directly opposite of the geothermal area of the great Geysir & Strokkur

GEYSIR CENTER • HAUKADALUR • WWW.GEYSIRCENTER.IS +354 480 6800 • GEYSIR @ GEYSIRCENTER.IS Issue one 5

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Pre-booking is required. Book online at bluelagoon.com

Issue one 7

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Issue one 9

A letter from the editor

In this issue

Power to the people – one 2019

12 A letter from the CEO 14 Experience is everything Check out these three recommended tours for your stay in Iceland. 18 WOW Entrepreneurs Surfing in Iceland is not for the faint of heart. Nor, for that matter, is it for the sane. Yet, tour company Arctic Surfers was created to cater especially to thrill-seeking travelers. 22 Eating your way around Lake Mývatn While many restaurants might look abroad for gastronomic inspiration, the food scene around Lake Mývatn finds it much closer to home. 26 The new Nordic kitchen Leaders of Reykjavik’s food scene look to the past, local farmers and Icelandic nature for contemporary culinary inspiration, which is fueled in part by tourism.

Full plates

big part of my upbringing happened on my grandparent’s a dairy farm in North-Iceland, and although my parents and I moved full time to Akureyri when I was about 9 or 10, I always had a very strong connection to the countryside. Each spring after we moved I quit school early to help out at a family friend’s sheep farm, delivering lambs and sweeping pens for 3-4 weeks. I have very fond memories of these times, and at the same time, I realize that both farms were an intricate part of the region’s food production. Perhaps for this reason, or maybe because my mother was both skilled and adventurous in her home cooking, food has always been high on my list of favorites. I like talking about it, discovering new recipes, reading about it and, of course, eating it. I hope you do too because this issue is dedicated to food in all its glory, from simple Icelandic recipes to great cooking classes, fancy restaurants, street food and the best restaurants outside Reykjavik. And it’s not just Iceland offering great food, at all of our destinations you’ll find something that will excite your inner foodie so take note. Because it’s Thorri season in Iceland, I think talking about the fabulous food our chefs are offering at restaurants around the country is truly important. I don’t want any visitor leaving this island with a bad taste in their mouth. Bon appetit! Guðrún Vaka Helgadóttir

ICELANDIC FOOD - THE GOOD KIND / HOW TO MAKE A TRADITIONAL ICELANDIC LAMB SOUP

mag

azin

WOW magazine editor-in-chief

ISSUE ONE 2019

ICELANDIC FOOD The good kind How to make a traditional Icelandic Lamb Soup

POWER TO THE PEOPLE – Issue one 2019

Plus: Best food stops around Iceland YOUR FREE COPY -TA K E M E W I T H Y O U

On the cover Photographing hot soup outside when it’s -4°C (24-25°F) can be a great challenge, and that’s why we called on the Dream Team. Chef Úlfar Finnbjörnsson made a good batch of Icelandic Lamb Soup and kept it warm long enough for photographer Kristinn Magnússon to get a good shot. Both the Icelandic weather and nature worked in our favor and gave us a little window of gorgeous sunlight without too much wind so we could get the perfect shot in the snow. One hour later the mountains, sky and land had vanished behind a thick snow storm.

Attention advertisers! How would you like to see your company in our next issue? Contact our advertising representative and he’ll make it happen. He’s just that good! halli@wow.is

WOW magazine staff Editor in chief: Guðrún Vaka Helgadóttir Design and layout: Ivan Burkni - ivanburkni@gmail.com Proofreading: Paul Michael Herman Contributing writers: Bogi Bjarnason, Shaun Busuttil, Krista Connor, Donna Tzaneva, Einar Páll Svavarsson, Nanna Gunnars, Cindy-Lou Dale, Judy Colbert, Caron R. Luteran, Nadja Sayej, Alexandra Pereira, Andrew Marshall, Evan Lewis and Svava Jónsdóttir

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32 An Icelandic cooking class at SALT Eldhús Whether you’re a food lover, gastronomy expert or simply enjoy learning about new cultures and people, attending a culinary class comes highly recommended.

36 Icelandic lamb soup When it comes to traditional Icelandic food, Icelandic lamb soup is the dish that you must try so you can say that you’ve really tasted true Icelandic cooking.

40 Off the Ring Road Many visitors take the four to five-day drive around the island, on the so-called Ring Road—a trip along the coastline that will bring you to Iceland’s many small and picturesque fishing towns. 44 Best food stops around Iceland If you want to avoid just having hot dogs, burgers or deep-fried food at gas stations for lunch and dinner, you might want to plan some of your food stops on the Ring Road in advance. 48 The Icelandic kleina Icelanders see the kleina as a common everyday pastry, which may also be the reason why they claim credit to its fame and call it the traditional Icelandic treat. 50 Fancy kleina with a twist Try out this very traditional recipe for kleinur, served with whey-licorice granita, giving them an extra twist. 52 Icelandic food: BEWARE! After telling you all about how delicious, innovative and fresh the Icelandic gastronomy scene is, why would we write an article warning people about the dangers of Icelandic food? Here’s why! 72 The Vatnajokull Region It’s all about the langoustine in Höfn, The Lobster Capital of Iceland 76 Reykjavik street food Not long ago there was no such thing as a street food scene in Reykjavík, but in recent years, months and weeks that’s all been changing. 80 The U.S. Customs Declaration Form What is this? Why do I need to fill it out?

WOW DESTINATIONS 84 The Sugar Shacks of Montréal When winter’s bone-chilling temperatures begin to ebb, the sap of maple trees starts to flow, and Canadians are thrilled that spring is on its way. 90 Picture perfect in New York For those who like to photograph their way through their holidays, check out these iconic hotspots on the Lower East Side. 94 10 Italian dishes you must try Don’t limit yourself to pizza and gelato! Here are 10 lesser-known dishes you need to try on your next trip to Italy. 98 Frankfurt’s famous neighbor Just over an hour from Frankfurt the much-acclaimed Mosel Valley—historically one of Europe’s largest wine trading districts—awaits. 100 Copenhagen’s coolest natural wine spots If craft beer and open-faced sandwiches aren’t your things check out Copenhagen’s dazzling natural wine scene. 102 A guide to brunching in Berlin Dip, dive, and gorge on the city’s most delicious and accessible brunches, on offer all hours for the intrepid Berlin explorer. 104 Flavors of India in London In England, “going for an Indian” has become an essential Friday night dinner tradition, and in London, Brick Lane is the only place for it. 106 The art of ordering coffee in Paris There is nothing more enjoyable (or clichéd) than sitting at a Parisian café en Terrace, sipping an espresso. And, of course, there is an art to ordering coffee in Paris. 108 A taste of Europe Europe is the perfect place for a unique gastronomic road trip. 112 You want more? Where do you want to go? Check out our other WOW destinations. 116 This and that …mainly this. 122 What’s going on? …quite a lot, actually. 126 WOW horoscope What’s in your future? WOW air’s famed astrologist has the answer. 128 Bored on board? Solve these Sudokus. 130 The Traveling Inquisition Örn Árnason, one of Iceland’s most famous and beloved actors and comedian, was apprehended by the Traveling Inquisition and asked to explain his jokes thoroughly.

P.S. Would you like your very own copy of WOW magazine? Take this one with you or contact us through magazine@wow.is and we’ll send you a printed copy. You can also check out WOW magazine online at wowair.com.

WOWAIR.COM © WOW air - Katrínartún 4 - 105 Reykjavík - Iceland Tel: 00 354 590 3020 - E-mail: magazine@wow.is Oddi environmentally certified printing company All rights reserved. Reprinting, direct quoting or recapitulation prohibited except with a written permit from publisher.

BRING YOUR COSTCO CARD WITH YOU TO ICELAND! Costco Iceland opened in May 2017. Just like other Costco warehouses, Costco Iceland offers one of the largest and most exclusive product category selections to be found under one roof. Categories include groceries, confectionery, appliances, television and audio equipment, automotive supplies, tires, toys, hardware, sporting goods, jewellery, watches, cameras, books, housewares, apparel, health and beauty aids, furniture, office supplies and office equipment. The warehouse also has a self-service gas station.

Kauptun 3, 210 Gardabaer Phone: +354 532 5555 Email: costco@costco.is

WAREHOUSE OPENING TIMES Monday - Friday: 10:00am to 9:00pm Saturday: 09:30am to 8:30pm Sunday: 10:00am to 6:00pm GAS STATION OPENING TIMES Monday - Friday: 07:00am to 10:00pm Saturday: 07:00am to 9.30pm Sunday: 07:00am to 7:00pm PHARMACY OPENING TIMES Monday - Friday: 11:00am to 7:00pm Sarurday: 10:00am to 6:00pm Sunday: 10:00am to 4:00pm

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A letter from the CEO

A taste for travel One of the most popular things to do while traveling the world is experiencing different cultures through food, tasting new things and testing the local delicacies on offer. Cheaper flights and more availability have made the world a little bit smaller, so gastronomic influences have traveled the world at a faster pace after visitors to a foreign country tried the local fare and loved it. Every country has its national dish and every region it’s a point of pride when it comes to food production. I am a great believer in sampling the world through its gastronomic offerings, but my heart beats close to home when it comes to my favorite food; freshly caught wild Atlantic salmon. Nothing beats preparing a wild salmon that you have caught yourself fly fishing in one of the many great salmon rivers of Iceland. One of my favorite ways to prepare the wild salmon is by bringing soy sauce and wasabi with me to the river bank and enjoying a fresh caught salmon raw, right there in the good company of my fishing buddies. A little Saki or local ice-cold Brennivin doesn’t hurt either to set the mood right.

Me and my daughter with our catch of the day in Þverá River, Borgarfjörður.

We at WOW air are on a mission to make traveling affordable and thus available to all. This way we play our part in introducing different cultures and culinary styles to our guest’s palates, which, in turn, broadens their horizon and understanding towards people of different origins. To all our guests, I’d like to say, thank you, for choosing WOW air but also, thank you for traveling. It really makes the world a better place. Sincerely, Skúli Mogensen Founder and CEO of WOW air

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Issue one 13

tours

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Experience

is everything

When visiting Iceland or any other destination it always helps to be prepared. Most travelers study up on the city or country they’ll be going to and decide what they want to see and do once they get there. Photos: iStockphoto.com and courtesy of respective tour operators

ooking your tours and activities in advance is a great way to ensure that you’ll get the best price and not miss out on popular tours. Through WOW air’s booking engine and websites, or directly through tours.wowair.com, you can now find some of the best tours in Iceland all at one place as well as multiple choices for other WOW destinations on both sides of the Atlantic. Here are three exciting food or drink related tours and activities featured in Iceland this season. REYKJAVIK FOOD WALK Behind great food are hardworking families, fascinating stories, ambitious restaurants and age-old traditions. If you love good food and want to taste the best of what Reykjavik has to offer on the culinary front this tour is definitely for you. From well-known must-visit restaurants to small family run businesses and secret local hangouts, this tour leaves out the pungent shark, rams testicles and sheep heads and instead allows you to explore why Icelanders are indeed proud of their local food, focusing on the most delicious cuisine. We recommend taking this tour early in your stay so you can go back and revisit your favorite places.

From wellknown mustvisit restaurants to small family run businesses and secret local hangouts, this tour leaves out the pungent shark, rams testicles and sheep heads and instead allows you to explore why Icelanders are indeed proud of their local food, focusing on the most delicious cuisine.

Duration: 3 hours tours.wowair.com/tours/reykjavik-food-walk

Photo: Basti Hansen – Courtesy of WakeUpReykjavik

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tours

A perfect tour for beer lovers from all walks of life, you will be taken on a beer filled adventure through Reykjavik’s only micro brewery, a hip gastro pub, the best micro bar in town and the venue that has the largest Icelandic beer selection of them all while sampling 10 Icelandic beers.

THE REYKJAVIK BEER TOUR Interesting bars and amazing brews, this tour takes you through the local beer history, introduces some of Iceland’s best microbreweries and helps you explore Iceland’s capital with a fun and knowledgeable local guide. A perfect tour for beer lovers from all walks of life, you will be taken on a beer filled adventure through Reykjavik’s only micro brewery, a hip gastro pub, the best micro bar in town and the venue that has the largest Icelandic beer selection of them all while sampling 10 Icelandic beers. Chances are you’ll find your favorite. Duration: 2 ½ hours tours.wowair.com/tours/reykjavik-beer-tour/

You will also meet new friends from Iceland and around the world and get a VIP entry to the clubs—which can save you a lot of trouble! If you factor in the cost of alcohol in Icelandic bars this tour is an absolute steal!

THE REYKJAVIK BAR CRAWL The amazing Reykjavik Bar Crawl that will definitely get you in the mood for a fun night out in Reykjavik. It’s the perfect introduction to the Reykjavik nightlife! In one “tour,” the walk includes unique Icelandic drinks, a visit to all your soon to be favorite bars and a local’s insight into Reykjavik’s nightlife scene. You will also meet new friends from Iceland and around the world and get a VIP entry to the clubs— which can save you a lot of trouble! If you factor in the cost of alcohol in Icelandic bars this tour is an absolute steal! Duration: 3 hours tours.wowair.com/tours/reykjavik-pub-crawl/

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Experience the amazing LangjĂśkull glacier from the inside A rare, once in a lifetime opportunity

k Ă v a j k y e R d n a r e t n e c l l e f a s Ăş H m o Daily departures fr

Find us:

#intotheglacier

www.intotheglacier.is Issue one 17

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“COME ON IN, THE WATER IS BONE CHILLING!”

WOW Entrepreneurs

Surfing in Iceland is not for the faint of heart. Nor, for that matter, is it for the sane. Yet, a score of locals (according to a 2018 government census) engage in such shenanigans on a regular basis. by Bogi Bjarnason Photo: ElliThor, courtesy of Arctic Surfers

FOR WHOM THE SWELL BREAKS In veteran surfer Ingólfur Olsen, and his tour company Arctic Surfers, we find the main catalyst behind the ongoing effort to lure thrill seeking travelers into the whirlpool of madness hidden in the sub-zero waters off the rock-riddled, Icelandic shoreline. Ingó, as he is affectionately known to everyone but his birth certificate, is as levelheaded as he’s passionate about his trade, and he’s quick to point out to this sensationalist reporter that in all their years of operation, Arctic Surfers has not suffered a single accident nor minor mishap to any of their clientele, thus cutting any further hyperbole in this piece off at the knees. Ingó is a stout man of humble beginnings. One who found his way from skate park to surf spot by way of countless bowls of noodle soup, and a pit stop as a top, local snowboarder. His success in the surf tourism business is the product of a dozen or two years, and countless miles spent chasing storm patterns down myriad coastal highways and byways, combined with a stint as an action sports tour guide during the era when the economic collapse morphed into a raging tourism boom.

His success in the surf tourism business is the product of a dozen or two years, and countless miles spent chasing storm patterns down myriad coastal highways and byways, combined with a stint as an action sports tour guide during the era when the economic collapse morphed into a raging tourism boom.

PADDLING EVER ONWARDS In Ingó’s retelling, the Arctic Surfers company doesn’t seem to have been definitively formed at any certain point in time but is rather the result of a thousand waves of experience crashing at the doorsteps of himself and erstwhile co-founder Erlendur Þór Magnússon. The turning point came in 2012 when Ingó decided: “Fudge it, we might as well have a go at making this a full-time gig!” and he hasn’t looked back since. In this day and age, diversification is key to long-term success. So, while customized group adventures for straight-up wave surfing is still the bread and butter of the Arctic Surfers brand, SUP, or stand up paddle boarding, is a popular option for wilderness exploration suited equally for the less athletically gifted as the rare breed of genetic lottery winners out there. Other options and services include multi-day snowboarding/surfing combo deals (“hold the avalanche, please!”) on the breathtaking Tröllaskagi peninsula, and, of particular

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WOW Entrepreneurs

At the end of the day, he wasn’t put on this earth to make bank, but merely to make it over to the other side in one piece, while picking up good vibrations and giving the excitations to as many surfstarved souls as he can humanly muster.

interest to you, the fancy Hollywood exec perusing this in the comfort of your XXL seat up front, Media Production assistance for various film and advert projects include Red Bull, Mazda and the epic, cold water surfing bonanza that is Under an Arctic Sky.

tween those chasing the laid-back dream of secluded breaks, and those guarding their existing one against foreign hordes— with Ingó Olsen stuck in the middle as a sole mediator and makeshift international surf diplomat.

BETWEEN A WAVE AND A HARD PLACE

IT IS WHAT IT IS

With Mr. Magnússon long since flown the coop for a career as a professional photographer, Arctic Surfers currently provides the equivalent of two and a half full time, year-round, positions for the big kahuna himself and a team of three aides. But the future of Ingó Olsen and his company hangs in a sort of static limbo in between ambition for growth and inhibition imposed by the fierce territorialism displayed by local crews the world over in a sport otherwise considered almost sloth-like in its attitude. A war of the wills, if you’d like, be-

But as expected, Ingó Olsen takes it all in zen-like stride. At the end of the day, he wasn’t put on this earth to make bank, but merely to make it over to the other side in one piece, while picking up good vibrations and giving the excitations to as many surfstarved souls as he can humanly muster. If you’re feeling crowded and put upon somewhere among the popular haunts of the Golden Circle trail, why not man up and give him a holler through www.arcticsurfers.com. I mean, what’s the worst that could happen?

For more information and reservations got to www.arcticsurfers.com

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FOOD FOR THOUGHT

EATING WAY YOUR AROUND LAKE MÝVATN For centuries, Icelandic food was rather bland. But thanks to a growing global consciousness and geothermal greenhouses, it has blossomed from its humble beginnings into an exciting, varied and cosmopolitan cuisine. And yet, while many restaurants in Reykjavik look abroad for gastronomic inspiration, the food scene around Lake Mývatn finds it much closer to home. Photos: Shaun Busuttil and courtesy of Vogafjós and Eldey Restaurant / Hotel Laxá

Like everywhere else in the world, Iceland’s food reflects its culture. When the Norse settlement of Iceland began at the beginning of the 9th century, settlers met a fierce and formidable land. An island on the cusp of the Arctic Circle, its extraordinay nature, harsh conditions and remoteness forced the new arrivals to make adjustments necessary for their survival. These adjustments led to compromises that brought, at times, unexpected benefits. Their relationship with the volcanic character of their new home evolved into one displaying co-operation and harmony, and nowhere is this more visibly captured in Icelandic cuisine than by Lake Mývatn. BELOW THE BREADLINE There are no bakeries in Lake Mývatn, at least, not the ones you’re used to. Like in many other parts of Iceland, locals have been baking bread underground by harnessing the volcanic steam billowing out of the earth for centuries. The bread baked in Mývatn’s geothermal bakery— mostly a collection of holes dug a half meter into the ground and covered with wood, bricks and stones—is called hverabrauð (geysir bread) to differentiate it from the oven-baked rye bread (rúgbrauð) that’s devoured throughout Iceland. Geysir bread recipes are handed down through the generations, and every family has their unique twist on the recipe. But, at its core, geysir bread is made from rye, flour, sugar, salt, yeast

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and water. These ingredients are mixed, placed in a milk carton, and then left to bake underground for 24 hours. This volcanically-baked bread tastes sweeter than regular bread and, according to locals, tastes even better layered with salted butter and a slice of smoked Arctic char. The underground bakery is strictly off-limits to tourists, but that’s okay because there are tons of places around town that serve it. A TABLE WITH BOVINE VIEWS The concept behind the Vogafjós “Cowshed Restaurant” is unique. Take a working farm that’s been in the same family for nearly 130 years and turn it into a farm resort with log cabin accommodation and an excellent farmto-table restaurant. Then fit a window into one side of the restaurant that look’s straight into an actual cowshed, so diners can literally see where their food comes from. “We believe that you are what you eat, so it’s very important to know where your food comes from. We produce most of our meat on the farm—lamb and beef. We also make cheese here, using our own milk,” explains Ólöf Hallgrímsdóttir at Vogafjós. Vogafjós’s menu is proudly local. Mains include pan-fried Arctic char served with warm potato cake, fresh salad, and their unique Mývatn salad cheese. There’s the Vogafjós beef burger served with homemade bread, onion, tomatoes, and Mývatn mozzarella, and then there’s Vogafjós raw smoked lamb (smoked the tradi-

Issue one 23

FOOD FOR THOUGHT tional way with sheep and cow dung) served with cottage cheese, blueberry jam, and their geothermally-baked geysir bread— based on a recipe that’s been in the family for many generations. Vogafjós is also a member of Vakinn, the official quality and environmental system for Icelandic tourism. The operational and environmental standards set by Vakinn are very high, so it’s a pretty big deal to be endorsed by them. Time your visit to the restaurant at 7:30 in the morning or at 17:30 in the afternoon, and you’ll be able to see the cows milked and even taste the fresh, warm milk direct from the cows. Time your visit to the farm in May, and you may be able to see some newborn lambs. The other worldly topography of pseudo craters, rugged mountains and lava fields outside the windows of the fab restaurant inside Lake Mývatn’s Hotel Laxá are compelling enough reasons to dine here. And yet still, the exceptional regionallyinspired menu featuring all the local specialties refuses to be outshone by the surrounding landscape— especially when you order the lamb.

There are no bakeries in Lake Mývatn, at least, not the ones you’re used to. Like in many other parts of Iceland, locals have been baking bread underground by harnessing the volcanic steam billowing out of the earth for centuries.

OFF THE HOOK Fish is an essential part of the Icelandic diet. It’s so fundamental that Icelanders eat four times as much fish than any other developed nation. But in Lake Mývatn, fish isn’t just a staple of the local cuisine—it grew into an industry that became part of its cultural fabric, and, up until the last 15 to 20 years, was vital to the local economy. These days, however, limits on commercial fishing to help re-stock the lake have restricted fishing to just 14 days each summer. Even still, locals can fish the lake year-round, which greatly supplements the area’s agricultural production. Arctic char, a local favorite has been con sumed in Lake Mývatn since the Viking times. Although fishing restrictions mean it’s no longer a major local export, the practice of smoking Arctic char is still very much part of the local economy. “Farmers from the Mývatn area buy farmed Arctic char from on-land nearby aqua farms,” Anton from Geo Travel explains. “That way we keep our traditional work alive without overfishing the lake.” Arctic char is native to alpine lakes and Arctic and sub-Arctic coastal waters, such as those around Iceland; no other freshwater fish is found so far north. Its flesh ranges from bright red to pale pink, and its taste is something between salmon and trout. According to Anton, a local fisherman himself, Arctic char caught mid-winter from the lake is “heaven on a plate.” But it’s not just Arctic char that’s fished here: the lake also thrives with brown trout. Fish grow fat here in the nutrient-rich water, feeding on the millions of midges that swarm around the lake (itself named after this indomitable insect) all year, especially during summer, creating in Lake Mývatn and its rivers some of the best fishing con ditions in Europe. Anton hopes it stays that way. “Fishing lake Mývatn is complicated. Still, we hope that the knowledge we’ve accumulated over the last 1,000 years of settlement will continue benefitting future generations.” A TASTE OF THE VIKINGS Like most restaurants in Lake Mývatn, Eldey Restaurant uses only fresh, locally-sourced ingredients in its gastronomic creations to reflect the uniqueness of the area. Produce

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is sourced from the geothermally-heated greenhouses in Hveravellir and Vallarnes, famous in Iceland for their organic fruit and vegetables; while the Arctic char comes from Húsavík, the whale whatching capital of Iceland. The otherworldly topography of pseudo craters, rugged mountains and lava fields outside the windows of the fab restaurant inside Lake Mývatn’s Hotel Laxá are compelling enough reasons to dine here. And yet still, the exceptional regionally-inspired menu featuring all the local specialties refuses to be outshone by the surrounding landscape—especially when you order the lamb. Brought in from nearby farms in northern Iceland and served with beetroot and apple-purée potatoes, fondant, portobello mushrooms and caramelized onion sauce, Eldey’s signature lamb fillet exemplifies this commitment to high-quality ingredients. About Icelandic lamb: it’s unique. For starters, they’re much smaller and have shorter legs than European lambs, and come in many different colors: white, brown, black, grey, even reddish brown. The meat is a lot darker too, and has a more gamey flavor—its taste has been compared to venison. But more importantly, unlike their

northern European cousins, developed for food production for hundreds of years, Icelandic lambs are direct descendants of those first sheep brought over by sea over many centuries ago. They’re authentic Viking lamb, genetically unchanged, and an important staple of the Icelandic diet that’s endured for over a millennium. And thanks to the regional commitment to stay true to their roots, restaurants in Lake Mývatn are helping to ensure that Icelandic lamb and other traditional foods and cooking met hods endure for future generations to come.

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Issue one 25

The new Nordic kitchen

DEEP ROOTS IN THE MODERN AGE The leaders of Reykjavik’s food scene look to the past, local farmers and Icelandic nature for contemporary culinary inspiration, which is fueled in part by tourism. Meanwhile, Mediterranean flare and cooking classes are heating up the city’s kitchens. by Krista Connor Photos: Courtesy of Salt Eldhús/Hákon Davíð Björnsson, Sumac Bar&Grill and ÓX. Photos of Hrefna Sætran and Fiskmarkaðurinn by Karl Petersson.

or some time, a cuisine resurgence has been simmering in the northernmost capital of the world, growing now to a steady boil. But as with all things connected to Reykjavik and Icelandic cuisine, you must first trace backward to under stand the present.

It started with New Nordic Cuisine, a restaurant movement begun in Copenhagen in the early 2000s which spread throughout Scandinavia, eventually reaching Iceland. The New Nordic concept, promoting an upscale return to local, seasonal dishes, is nothing new; chefs all around the globe are digging into the past, embracing culinary roots. But Iceland’s story is comprised of a patriotic movement sprung up unexpectedly, birthed by necessity, now nurtured by pride—and tourism. According to the renowned chef and restaurant owner Þráinn Freyr Vigfússon, most known for his Reykjavik boutique restaurants Sumac Bar & Grill and ÓX, the Icelandic culinary rebirth began with the economic crash in 2008. He says this was a huge wakeup call for Icelanders. “At the time, the Icelandic market demanded mostly imported food,” says Vigfússon, “and generally, had little awareness about the significance of traditional, local foods. The crash pushed us to look closer at our spending and not import all kinds of garbage.” The shift had begun.

“I wanted to bring something new to the Icelandic food scene,” says Vigfússon. “We focus on Icelandic products, like fish, meat, vegetables, and dairy, and use some of the more interesting spices from abroad.”

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HOW TOURISM HELPS SHAPE THE CULINARY SCENE What began as a necessary shove to import less and produce more evolved into a national culinary identity. Lured by the promise of elves, lunar landscapes—and exotic national dishes, Iceland emerged on the world stage, and travelers began to flock to this mystical land. “After the financial crisis, tourists came and helped turn the market back around to Icelandic produce rather than imported products,” says Vigfússon. Since then, Iceland has come far by enhancing the New Nordic Cuisine, opening more restaurants and improving culinary tastes, according to Vigfússon. “The food scene has developed a lot with the help of a huge number of tourists.”

Issue one 27

The new Nordic kitchen According to the renowned chef and restaurant owner Þráinn Freyr Vigfússon, most known for his Reykjavik boutique restaurants Sumac Bar & Grill and ÓX, the Icelandic culinary rebirth began with the economic crash in 2008. He says this was a huge wakeup call for Ice landers.

OMAGE TO THE PAST Across the city and around the country, chefs are looking at what their parents and grandparents cooked. And what were the vintage recipes that inspired them? The three pillars of Ice landic cuisine have always been lamb, dairy and fish, and geography, terrain and climate have been determining factors in this longstanding tradition. Today, chefs are still serving those staples, but with a twist. At ÓX, Iceland’s inten tionallysmallest fine dining establish ment, Vigfússon uses old recipes from his grandparents; dishes are simple but feed into the bigger picture of cultural

identity. A family heirloom kitchen cabinet overlooks the bar, and the Icelandic timber cabin design theme keeps guests cozy. Components harken to an old Icelandic kitchen—when mythical monsters once roamed the countryside—while serving the finest ingredients. “That’s the mentality of ÓX,” he says. “Guests are served by two chefs. And chefs do the plating in front of the guest, interact with them, serving wine and drinks as if you would be at someone’s home in West Iceland.”

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TRADITIONAL FOOD REIMAGINED While the presentation at ÓX is intentionally vague (you won’t find a menu on the website), Vigfússon has been known to serve goose liver mousse, grilled monkfish, geothermally-baked rye bread, lamb with chanterelles, red beets and Icelandic raspberries; baked cod with mussel purée, caramelized miso, and onion sauce too—usually all served up on locally-made plates. Likewise, all around the city, you’ll see seasonal Icelandic ingredients on upscale

At ÓX, Iceland’s intentionally-smallest fine dining establishment, Vigfússon uses old recipes from his grandparents; dishes are simple but feed into the bigger picture of cultural identity.

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W W W. K E FA I R P O R T. I S

Issue one 29

The new Nordic kitchen

menus. At Grillmarkaðurinn, Icelandic culinary star Hrefna Sætran offers tra ditional whale, puffin and lobster mini burgers served with pesto, chorizo and horseradish mayo. Lightly smoked arctic char, comprised of pickled fennel, spiced rye bread, quail egg and mustard dressing is on the menu, as well as grilled whale steak pairs with Icelandic wasabi and soy vinaigrette. Want traditional lamb shank? It’ll come with potato terrine, sauerkraut and wild shiitake-apple glaze. Harðfiskur (dried fish) has been a favorite Icelandic snack for centuries; Sætran brought it to the 21st century simply by dipping it in green tempura and deep-frying it. The dish is now a classic at Grillmarkaðurinn. Sætran’s other endeavor, Fiskmark aðurinn, a Reykjavik favorite restaurant launched in 2007, serves contemporary seafood featuring fish, meat, and sweet dishes, with most ingredients sourced locally. THE ROLE OF LOCAL FARMERS AND THE LANDSCAPE Local farmers play a major role in the dining scene. “We are looking at what a small local farmer is producing close to home, and let that control where we start from,” says Vigfússon. At Grillmarkaðurinn, most of the goods, sourced from farmers and producers, are known and trusted by the chefs. Farmers will tell Sætran’s team what’s in season and they’ll prepare it in their signature style. Plus, there are the distinct cultural and economic components: Supporting local farmers is good for the economy, and guests feel a sense of connection knowing where their food comes from. It’s not unusual for upscale restaurants to bring Icelandic nature indoors, either. Opened in 2011 by Sætran and Guðlaugur P. Frímannsson, two of Iceland’s most revered chefs, Grillmarkaðurinn’s contemporary dining room is deeply influenced by Iceland’s natural elements—rock, water and wood. Basalt columns and moss bring the landscape indoors, while tanned skins of spotted wolffish adorn the walls. TAKE A COOKING CLASS For a firsthand look at how old meets new, tourists and locals delve into experiential cooking activities. One Reykjavik visionary,

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Chef Sigríður Björk Bragadóttir, had the idea to take over the culinary school Salt Eldhús in 2012… It just won the 2019 Icelandic Culinary Experience of the Year Travel and Hospitality Awards. Bragadóttir is a culinary scene veteran, having worked at many restaurants; she was also a food writer and editor-in-chief at Iceland’s most prominent food and wine magazine Gestgjafinn. The classes at Salt are very popular among small groups and foreign visitors who want to learn more about Icelandic cooking and ingredients. “Both Icelanders and foreign clients are looking to experience a combination of modern cooking with Icelandic produce,” Bragadóttir says. “So, it is important to cook with the Icelandic free roaming lamb, fresh fish, vegetables from sustainable greenhouses, wild herbs and more.”

For a firsthand look at how old meets new, tourists and locals delve into experiential cooking activities. One Reykjavik visionary, Chef Sigríður Björk Bragadóttir, had the idea to take over the culinary school Salt Eldhús in 2012… It just won the 2019 Icelandic Culinary Ex perience of the Year Travel and Hospitality Awards.

Though traditional bases reign, Salt stays on top of current trends and offers classes that cater to both beginners and the more experienced “in a distinctive modern yet simple Icelandic way,” says Bragadóttir. Alternatively, for an experience where you really get your hands dirty, sign up with the Reykjavik Cookshop to learn how to make one of the most authentic Icelandic foods, slátur—also known as blood pudding or liver sausage akin to the Scottish haggis. Guests prepare, cook and eat the meal comprised of sheep’s blood, chopped or minced sheep’s fat, oatmeal and whole milk. MEDITERRANEAN INFLUENCE In Iceland, deep culinary roots don’t induce isolationism. Quite the opposite is happening right now, resulting in a palatable mishmash. “Icelanders are looking to learn specific types of cooking or baking from around the world,” says Bragadóttir. So Reykjavik’s finest are churning out trendy Middle Eastern and Mediterranean dishes. Take Vigfússon’s Sumac Bar & Grill which brings influences from Lebanon and North Africa to the Nordic city. On the menu, you’ll find many vegan and vegetarian options. “I wanted to bring something new to the Icelandic food scene,” says Vigfússon. “We focus on Icelandic products, like fish, meat, vegetables, and dairy, and use some of the more interesting spices from abroad.” Vigfússon isn’t the only one launching international-inspired cuisines. At Salt Eldhús, Bragadóttir makes a flatbread with a mixture of Middle Eastern herbs, za’atar. Likewise, at Reykjavik’s Lamb Street Food, husband and wife team Rita Didrikssen and Ásmundur Pálmason serve Icelandic lamb in a Middle Eastern style. Ingredients are from local farms, but inspiration spans oceans. The eatery is known for kebabs, quinoa, hummus, and mostly lamb wraps. WHAT’S NEXT? Bragadóttir says that with the combined surge of professional cooking, food interest and tourism, many Icelanders are now pursuing a career as professional chefs; chefs-to-be travel abroad to train with high-performing restaurants and return to Iceland with new ideas. “We have a lot of young, talented and ambitious professional chefs, eager to make their mark on the food scene,” she says. “There is a lot of pride in the Icelandic cuisine now, which is very evident when you look at what the restaurants are offering with a creative approach inspired by Icelandic produce and traditions.” Ultimately, Iceland’s New Nordic—and the creativity, curiosity, and hunger for various cuisines it has unleashed—is now the new normal. “There was hype for the New Nordic Cuisine, and it was a good wake up call for those who forgot to focus on their own traditions and ingredients,” says Vigfússon. “Now, people just look at it as a way to do things rather than hype.”

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Issue one 31

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An Icelandic cooking class at SALT Eldhús

Whether you’re a food lover, gastronomy expert or simply enjoy learning about new cultures and people over a glass of fine wine, attending a culinary class is absolutely something I’d wholeheartedly recommend, especially after my spontaneous decision to enroll in the Icelandic SALT one-day cooking class. by Donna Tzaneva

One of the ever so lightly opened windows near the dining area gives you an exquisite view over Reykjavik’s colorful rooftops surrounding Hallgrímskirkja Church and from the other side, the beautifully illuminated Mt. Esja.

would describe myself as a radical foodie addict. My worldwide travel planning always involved booking hotels next to top rated restaurants— be it a street shack in Bangkok or the infamous Bondi Icebergs, fine dining experiences in Sydney, Instastalking (yes, that is a thing) the quirkiest cafes and making reservations months in advance. FROM CONSUMER TO PRODUCER Living in the 21st-century consumerist society focused on social media impacts and trends has undoubtedly contributed to the rise of the “foodies.” After all, taking that picture-perfect snap is essential, even when it comes to food. However, I must admit, my relationship with food completely changed the day I attended a cooking class at SALT Eldhús when from a simple post-production consumer I became a food maker, all in the span of a few hours. Nestled in a quiet street, in the heart of downtown Reykjavik lies a truly spectacular and impressive place—the SALT culinary headquarters. Once the door opens, without really realizing it, you’re fully immersed in a kind of out-ofbody experience of pure calm and tranquility to the mind, body and soul alike. All you can see, smell and hear is the mixture of diverse spices, hot coffee brewing, culinary masterpieces in the making and a friendly and welcoming atmosphere provided by hosts Sigríður Björk Bragadóttir and Sigurður Grendal Magnússon. A MEAL WITH A VIEW One of the ever so lightly opened windows near the dining area gives you an exquisite view over Reykjavik’s colorful rooftops surrounding Hallgrímskirkja Church and from the other side, the beautifully illuminated Mt. Esja. A small group of people from entirely different walks of life, slowly start to fill the space, including some gastronomy experts

fThe dining table at Salt Eldhús where students can enjoy their own cooking together in a cozy atmosphere.

Issue one 33

and others, like myself, complete novices who have never turned on a stove before (painfully true). What’s on the menu for today’s class? A three course, truly exquisite cuisine combining Icelandic cod, parsnip with pearl onion, Arctic char with fennel-orange salad, Skyr flan with bilberry sauce and toasted oats. The only thought going through my mind is what am I doing in a cooking class if I cannot recognize half of the words on a menu; how am I expected to cook it… LAND, NATURE AND FOOD After a small bout of inner panic and selfdoubt, instructions are provided, and after a brief presentation, we’re fully immersed in the world of pots and pans, measuring and stirring. That initial fear slowly turns into, “Ok, I got this,” and from that moment on, every single second of this new experience turns into complete and utter pleasure. Subtle music is heard in the background while ingredients are gracefully explained, questions answered and our culinary experience slowly comes to life. The use of predominantly native ingredients from the famous Skyr to the Arctic char, hand-picked spices and seaweed salt, to name a few, unquestionably adds a distinctive Icelandic feel to the class. The cooking venture slowly begins to embody a one of a kind cultural talk on the ingredients’ heritage, history and use. The strong connection between land, nature and food is exposed, making it a great platform for Icelandic history and lifestyle discussions.

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The only thought going through my mind is what am I doing in a cooking class if I cannot recognize half of the words on a menu; how am I expected to cook it…

As the Arctic Char is placed in the skillet, the Skyr flan in the fridge and the pearl onions prepared, we take a short break to sample some beer and Icelandic treats. I can tell you that nothing is better than a glass of cold Icelandic Einstök, paired with some of Iceland’s finest savories, good company and wonderful talks! BON APETITE! To my delight, the dishes that once looked like simple ingredients slowly flourish into beautifully masterminded gourmet meals. The creative side of cooking starts to come out as the hosts carefully demonstrate the magic of “plating the meal,” in other words, decorating the plate and food. Techniques and tips are shared, and after a few trial and errors, we’re all given the goahead to try it. I must admit, I never thought I’d be able to do anything like this but, with careful observation and guidance, my plate, didn’t look bad at all. In all fairness, it was the best looking plate I have made to this day; no exaggeration. During our plating, the table is carefully set, and upon completion, we’re invited to sit and savor our makings over a glass of wine. As minutes turn into hours, and after some

spilled cups of coffee, wine and great travel stories, this group of diverse people slowly evolves from strangers into friends. THE BENEFITS OF TAKING A COOKING CLASS What I discovered that day, is that a mere cooking class involves so much more than just cooking. 1. You meet people: Frankly, I never thought we could become so close in such a short time. We all come from different parts of the globe and different walks of life, history and culture but our social abilities, ease of communication and interest in cooking which brought us here made the passage from strangers to friends wonderfully relaxed and enjoyable. 2. You learn about culture: A cooking class is kind of a mini history lesson without going too deep into details. Through ingredients used, why they’re used and how they’re obtained, you learn so much about the country’s culture, its people and, well, their food. 3. You support the local community: Tourism in a country like Iceland is essential to its economy and future development. Cooking classes such as the one provided at SALT Eldhús supports local communities in various ways—from the hosts and owners to the farmers and producers, a whole network of support is formed without you even realizing. In a nutshell, would I go again and do I recommend it? Absolutely! Happy cooking!

CMY

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Issue one 35

The real lamb soup of Iceland

Cozy, warm and tasty Icelandic Lamb Soup (kjötsúpa) may not be one of a kind as most countries have their own famous meat soup or stew to brag about. The Russians have Borscht; the Hungarians have the Hungarian goulash soup, there are Moroccan lamb soup and Irish lamb stew. The Icelandic Lamb Soup is, however, an Icelandic staple and is probably the dish that best captures the essence of “traditional Icelandic” when it comes to gastronomy. Recipe: Chef Úlfar Finnbjörnson Photos: Kristinn Magnússon

orget sour or rotten food peddled to visitors as “traditional.” When it comes to traditional Icelandic food, kjötsúpa is the dish that you must try so you can say that you’ve really tasted true Icelandic cooking. It’s hearty and full of nutrients, tasty and warms you to the core. AN AUTHENTIC ICELANDIC DISH Unfortunately, there are cooks out there that spoil the good name of the Icelandic lamb soup; they add ingredients that were never meant to be used, use pre-cooked meat, subpar meat, even smoked meat, instead of fresh meat, and generally disregard the revered origin of the kjötsúpa. The kjötsúpa was a lifesaver when food was generally hard to come by, and most every thing had to be locally sourced. Traditionally the soup is made with fresh lamb, rutabagas, carrots, and potatoes that are boiled together for 1-2 hours. It was usually made in big batches as it was just as good, if not better, the day after. Some people even made the same soup again and again by adding water and a few more pieces of lamb and vegetables to their already made soup.

WHEN THE BASICS ARE BEST

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Icelandic kjötsúpa is, after all, based on what was on hand back in the day before commercial flights and big cargo boats became an everyday thing. It was made cheaply, using the boniest and least expensive parts of the lamb, the neck, shoulder and shanks (usually these parts are sold sawed into pieces and referred to as soup meat). The vegetables; rutabagas, carrots and potatoes, are easily grown here by the Arctic Circle, and they also keep well in cold storages so they would have been handy throughout the winter. Other vegetables can, of course, be added such as cauliflower, cabbage, onions, celery and kale. THE SECRET INGREDIENT

Kjötsúpa is easy to make and a favorite among Icelanders. While every family might have a slight variation to the recipe, on the whole, it’s always the same. It is most common to cook kjötsúpa in the fall when the lambs have just been brought in for slaughter, and the meat is fresh, but now that we all have freezers and stores offer fresh lamb year-round, kjötsúpa is a dish for the whole year. Some even find it essential on camping trips. However, it is never more fitting than on a cold winter’s eve. The soup is attributed legendary healing powers, and we believe that as it is packed full of vitamins.

One of our favorite chefs, Úlfar Finnbjörnsson, is a stickler for the “rules” when it comes to the Icelandic kjötsúpa. He abhors the practice of adding rice, stating that rice would have been scarce for the housewives of yesteryear. “Perhaps they would have used some kind of grain, like rolled oats or barley, just to add a little thickness to it, but I’m not a firm believer in that either,” says Chef Finnbjörnsson. “What I am sure of though, is that they did not use rice.”

Finnbjörnsson is head chef at the Grand Hotel Reykjavik and told us that he takes especially good care of the lamb soup made in his kitchen. “It’s such an easy recipe that sometimes cooks think they can just make it however they feel like. But that’s doing this wonderful soup a great disservice. The soup needs to be as authentic as possible, no matter where it’s made. And I’m never as proud as when I’ve served my guests a bowl of great Icelandic kjötsúpa,” he adds.

It was a beautiful winter's day when we set out to capture Chef Úlfar's Lamb Soup in the snow. It was well below freezing so Úlfar kept the soup warm with the help of his butane flame. An hour after we finished the mountains had disappeared into a heavy snow storm.

One “secret” ingredient to Icelandic kjötsúpa is a mixture of dried herbs. In any grocery store in Iceland, you can buy rather large packets of soup herbs that are almost solely used to make kjötsúpa. The mix contains dried parsnip, carrots and leek and adds that little extra to the soup’s flavor. Some say the herbs are redundant, but for others they are essential. Throughout the ages, the healing power of wild herbs has been a part of the Icelandic culture, so perhaps the housewives of yore used Arctic thyme, Icelandic moss (fjallagrös), birch leaves, bog bilberry, and even juniper, to add flavor to their soup, all hand-picked in the unspoiled mountains above their farm. Not coincidentally, this is precisely the kind of fare that the Icelandic lamb grazes throughout the short summer months, giving it its distinctive and wild taste. “Back in the day, the vegetables might often have been dried to keep better over the winter, so I consider using soup herbs an authentic practice. My mother used them, my grandmother too, as did my great grandmother,” says Finnbjörnsson. “This is a soup of survival, it kept us alive and made us the

Issue one 37

The real lamb soup of Iceland strongest and most beautiful people in the world,” he adds. THE ALL-IMPORTANT ICELANDIC SHEEP Few animals are as revered in Iceland as the Icelandic sheep which have been a native since the first settlers brought them in 874. Descended from the same stock as the Norwegian Spelsau and one of the Northern European short-tailed sheep, they are midsized and generally short-legged and stocky. It’s been one of the most important animals for Icelanders through generations, not just for sustenance but for its dual-coated fleece that’s been keeping the people of Iceland warm since the settlement. Until the 1940s, Icelandic sheep were the predominant milk producing animal in Iceland, but they are not milked today. Instead, their lambs are allowed to continue suckling until the ewe weans them off in her own time. Icelandic sheep are a very cold-hardy breed indeed having been bred for a thousand years in a very harsh environment. The lambs are born from late April until mid-May, or even later, and when the lambs are old enough, and the last of the spring storms has hopefully passed, the sheep are let loose in the mountains where they roam free until the beginning of September. Icelandic lambs are not raised on grain or given hormones. Instead, they feast on sedge, moss campion, berries, Arctic thyme, birch leaves and angelica. After roaming free for four to five months, the lambs weigh 70-90 pounds (32-41 kg), and their meat has a fine grain and distinct, delicate flavor. It’s gourmet meat and not comparable to most other types of lamb or mutton. Although not always available outside Iceland, you can find Icelandic lamb in Whole Foods in the US and Sainsbury’s in the UK. Some supermarkets in Spain and France carry it as well. If the price is higher than your average lamb meat, just know that the cost of raising and exporting Icelandic lamb for foreign markets is usually higher than what you’re paying for. Sheep farming in Iceland is generally not a mass-production. And you’re getting quality, non-hormonal, grass-fed meat that’s been roaming free in the wild Icelandic mountains, making it taste more akin to wild game than farmed lamb—it’s delicious and totally worth it. AUTHENTIC ICELANDIC HOME COOKING Chef Finnbjörnsson has written the book— literally, when it comes to Icelandic cuisine. His gourmet cookbook Taste of Iceland was chosen best in the world by the prestigious Gourmand cookbook awards. From wild game, fresh seafood and lamb to traditional Icelandic pastry, Taste of Iceland offers a fantastic introduction into the world of modern Icelandic cuisine with a conventional twist. Finnbjörnsson has a great passion for hunting, and cooking from wild, fresh and sustainable ingredients which have made him a pioneer of reinventing traditional Icelandic fare. We asked him to give us his most authentic Icelandic lamb soup recipe to share with our readers. If you find Icelandic lamb in your supermarket, or you buy some before you head

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Icelandic lambs are not raised on grain or given hormones. Instead, they feast on sedge, moss campion, berries, Arctic thyme, birch leaves and angelica.

back, why not take the low-cost route and buy soup meat. The Icelandic lamb soup is easy to make at home, and it’s a great dish to share with friends and family. Here’s your chance to give them a taste of some real Icelandic home cooking.

ICELANDIC KJÖTSÚPA serves 4-6 1 kg (2.2 lbs) shoulder of lamb, sawed (soup meat) 1 ½ tsp. salt 1.6 l (7 cups) water 300 g (10.5 oz) carrots, peeled and cut into large pieces 300 g (10.5 oz) rutabagas, peeled and cut into large pieces 300 g (10.5 oz) small or medium potatoes, cut in half 2 whole onions, peeled and cut into wedges 1 leek, diced 2 celery stalks 1/3 headed cabbage, diced 1 tsp. freshly ground pepper 1 ½ dl (2/3 cup) soup herbs

Place the lamb meat in a large pot and pour in the water, so the meat is submerged. Add salt and place the pot on a stove. Bring slowly to a boil and let boil gently for 30 minutes. Scoop off any fat and froth that forms on the surface. Add the fresh vegetables except for the cabbage into the pot and boil gently for 20 minutes. Add the cabbage, pepper and soup herbs and boil gently for 10-20 minutes or until the meat starts to become loose from the bones. Because the kjötsúpa is chunky, it’s good to have an extra plate handy where you can cut up the meat before adding it back into to your bowl with the rest of the soup. Bring the taste of Iceland home with you There’s great food to be had in Iceland so why not bring a little taste home with you? For a dinner party worth remembering try some of Chef Finnbjörnsson’s recipes from his award-winning cookbook Taste of Iceland. Taste of Iceland is available at Keflavik Airport and in most bookstores and larger souvenir shops around the country.

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Issue one 39

Off the Ring Road

Fishing towns in Iceland

Although natural wonders like waterfalls, hot springs and iceberg lagoons are the main attraction in Iceland, thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a lot more to see in this fascinating country. Many visitors choose to take the four to five-day drive around the island, on the so-called Ring Roadâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; a trip along the coastline to other specially exciting places.

Vestmannaeyjar

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Off the Ring Road

Siglufjordur

THE NEW TOWNS From the times of settlement, in the middle of the ninth century, until the middle of the nineteenth century Iceland was an agricultural society. Almost everyone lived on farms and made their livelihood based on resources the land and livestock offered. And even though Icelanders traded during this time, very few trading posts developed into villages; the rest remained small hamlets or a cluster of houses. The same applies to fishing. Iceland has always been rich with fertile fishing grounds within a short distance from the shore and in all regions of the country. But surprisingly, only small season-based hamlets or clusters of houses, so-called fishing posts, developed by the coast before the seventeenth or eighteenth century. So most of the towns and villages are relatively new, and some have only been around for a few decades.

About the author: Einar Páll Svavarsson is a political scientist turned photographer and writer with decades of interest and experience traveling in Iceland. Einar is the owner and creator of one of the largest information websites about Iceland—Hit Iceland. For more see hiticeland.com

TRADING POSTS AND FISHING STATIONS Surprisingly, for such a small country, the coastline in Iceland houses about 65 towns and villages. A vast majority are located on the shore by the ocean, and only six are inland. So, Iceland has around 60 towns and villages that we can refer to as fishing towns. Although most of them are in many ways similar, their origins are not always the same. Some developed early on as fishing posts from where cod, haddock, and halibut were caught near the shore. At that time, and all the way up to the early 20th-century, small rowing boats were used as motor boats were not available to Icelanders at the time. Others had whaling stations for a short period. Around the mid-20th century, an enterprise developed due to a herring frenzy that captivated the nation, as herring was the first commodity Icelanders could trade

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internationally on a large scale—Iceland’s first big business if you will. Furthermore, some started out as trading posts but later developed into a combination of a fishing town and trading post.

sustain themselves on the limited access and permissions granted to small boats. And sadly, some towns and villages don’t have any access to the fishing grounds and are struggling to survive.

THE DECLINE OF THE SMALL TOWNS IN ICELAND

If you are traveling through Iceland, visiting some of the small towns and villages has many advantages. All of them, despite the decline factor, have excellent facilities for tourists, like accommodation, camping areas, swimming pools, small cafés, restaurants, a harbor and other charming places to visit.

Iceland introduced and implemented the law of quota in the fishing industry in the early 1990s. This affected many small villages that had supported an increasing number of people for decades, when access to the fishing grounds was unrestricted. Many lost their livelihood while others gained in their resources as access to the fishing grounds was reallocated and limited. Today, there are only a few towns with a thriving fishingbased economy, large fishing vessels and modern fish processing firms. Others

FAVORITE TOWNS AND VILLAGES There are delightful towns and villages in every region in Iceland. In the north, Húsavík is the most interesting. Having developed from both fishing and trading, it has since transformed into a spectacular tourist center as Iceland’s whale watching capital. In the east, Seyðisfjörður with its many charming houses and stunning landscape is a great old fishing town at the base of a beautiful fjord. At the harbor in The Westman Islands (Vestmannaeyjar) in the southern region, you will feel the pulse of the thriving fishing industry. This town is most famous for having been totally evacuated in 1973 because of a volcanic eruption only a few meters from the town’s edge. Stykkishólmur in the Snæfellsnes Peninsula is a town of exceptional beauty situated near the large Breiðafjörður Bay with its many islands and rich history. And last but not least, the hidden but not forgotten, mysteriously powerful little village of Ísafjörður in the West Fjords is waiting to be explored.

Flateyri

Husavik

Seydisfjordur

Olafsvik

Flateyri

Grindavik

Issue one 43

Culinary adventures on the Ring Road

BEST FOOD STOPS AROUND ICELAND Iceland is sparsely populated, and when driving around the country there may be at least an hour between each small town or a gas station. So if you want to avoid just having hot dogs, burgers or deepfried food at gas stations for lunch and dinner, you might want to plan some of your food stops in advance.

by Nanna Gunnars Photos: iStockphoto.com and courtesy of respective restaurants

celand’s cuisine is mostly made up of fresh seafood and delicious lamb, but recent years have also seen a surge in locally grown herbs and vegetables. Here I list some of the best restaurants and cafés in Iceland to taste local cuisine, outside of the capital region. Some may be a little hard on your wallet, but others are more reasonably priced. You’ll need your own transport to get to these gems as tours generally don’t visit them, but they are oh-soworth-it! Here they are presented in a lo cation order – driving the circle of Iceland anti-clockwise. GOLDEN CIRCLE TREATS If you are driving the Golden Circle, there are a number of locations to check out for dinner or lunch, all coming at an affordable price. At Efstidalur II by Lake Laugavatn you can choose between locally made quality ice-cream, burgers or steaks. The food here is farm-to-table, as they produce their own meat and dairy products and get all accompanying vegetables from the surrounding farms. Support the local farmers and eat organic food.

The chef at Norð Austur Sushi Bar puts the final touch on one of their sublime dishes.

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Tomatoes and terrific food and drink at Friðheimar.

At nearby greenhouse Friðheimar you’ll be surprised at how many dishes can be made using just cucumber and tomatoes. They are most famous for their tomato soup and freshly baked bread with cucumber salsa, but you can also get a tasty pasta dish and finish up with tomato ice-cream. And these guys make the best Bloody Mary in the country, both virgin ones and the stronger kind. In the small town of Flúðir, you’ll find the most surprising selection of food, at the Ethiopian restaurant Minilik. The staff and kitchen are small, consisting only of an Ethiopian lady that does all the cooking, and her husband who waits on tables, so you need to be patient, but the food is exotic and excellent, with spicy meat stews served with a sourdough Enjera bread. It’s also the perfect choice for vegetarians and coffee lovers due to their extensive vegetarian or fasting menu and newly ground Ethiopian coffee. If you’re tired of Icelandic seafood, or just want to try something entirely different, then Minilik is a fun surprise.

Friðheimar are most famous for their tomato soup and freshly baked bread with cucumber salsa, but you can also get a tasty pasta dish and finish up with tomato ice-cream.

Just a short boat ride away from Iceland’s mainland lie the stunning Westman Islands where you’ll find another gourmet seafood restaurant that shouldn’t be missed: Slippurinn. This family-run restaurant offers an extremely seasonal menu which changes weekly. You can be sure that the food is fresh, sustainable and local, and they follow both the philosophy of Slow Food

SOUTH COAST DELIGHTS Although some locals may consider the Blue Lagoon somewhat of a tourist trap, you can’t argue with the Lava Restaurant situated there being one of the best dining options in the country. After indulging in the world-famous spa, the ultimate way to spoil yourself is to partake in their tasting menu, although it comes with a hefty price. Traveling east, people pass through the town of Selfoss where you’ll find the popular Tryggvaskáli Restaurant, that focuses on local ingredients from nearby farms and mixes together Icelandic and foreign cuisine. Here you can choose from a mix of seafood, lamb and beef.

If you head to the town of Stokkseyri on the south coast, you’ll be rewarded with some of Iceland’s best langoustine at Fjöruborðið, (it translates to The Seashore). Langoustine is Iceland’s version of lobster, much smaller than the one visitors might be used to but all the more tastier. Only the tails are served, making them much easier to open than lobsters (and leaving you with much more shellfish to indulge in). Although they have other dining options, you should dive right away into a bowl of langoustine tails sautéed in butter and garlic, served with baby potatoes and optional side trimmings of couscous, cucumber and tomato salad. And of course, scoop up all that extra butter and garlic with the accompanying bread! As it is located right by the seashore, you can walk off this dining feast along a beautiful beach lined by tufts of grass on sandy hills.

Norð Austur Sushi Bar

and New Nordic Cuisine. It is just a short walk from the harbor and only open in the summertime, May-September. Note that both Fjöruborðið and Slippurinn require reservations in advance.

Pakkhúsið

THE REMOTE HIDDEN GEMS OF EAST ICELAND If you haven’t had enough langoustine, there’s the town of Höfn in southeast Iceland, the country’s langoustine capital. Pakkhúsið and Humarhöfnin both offer tasty and locally caught langoustine. As they don’t take reservations at peak times and are situated right next to each other, you can stroll between the two and pick the one that has a free table! In the tiny town of Djúpivogur, you’ll find a pleasantly surprising menu at Hotel Framtíð. You can’t go wrong with the seafood, but they also present a delicious French onion soup. The hotel itself dates back to 1904 and has a stunning view over the harbor right beside it.

For a big surprise, there’s a high-quality sushi restaurant located as far from the capital as possible. Arguably the best sushi to be found in Iceland is in Norð Austur Sushi Bar in the small but artistic town of Seyðisfjörður in east Iceland. This fashionable and sleek restaurant uses the freshest fish available for its modern, mouthwatering sushi. For the ultimate treat, go for the 8-course omakase. Note that this restaurant is only open during the summertime. Let’s move to something for the sweet tooth. The East of Iceland also presents some of the best cakes in the country! Just head over to the cake buffet at Klausturkaffi at Skriðuklaustur, not far from the town of Egilsstaðir. For a very decent price, you can stuff your face with waffles, cakes, Icelandic pastries, savory treats, coffee and hot chocolate. Make sure you’re hungry when you arrive! They also offer a lunch buffet with soups, quiches and grilled lamb to name a few dishes. It’s one I’ll be sure to check out next time I head east! To work up an appetite beforehand, or to let your stomach settle afterward, a short hike up to Hengifoss Waterfall in the vicinity is a great workout with fantastic views.

Seyðisfjörður in east Iceland.

Issue one 45

Culinary adventures on the Ring Road

Flatey Island, accessible by the ferry Baldur. Although a bit pricey, you won’t regret having some seafood at Hotel Flatey.

In the fjord of Breiðafjörður, you’ll come upon the peaceful Flatey Island, accessible by the ferry Baldur.

NORTH ICELAND DELICACIES Vogafjós aka The Cowshed Café by Lake Mývatn in North Iceland has some of the best food in the area; however, it doesn’t come cheap (not many things in Iceland do). But while the hamburger might be steeply priced, it’s one hell of a tasty bite! Alternatively, go for the meat soup or the rack of lamb. This is very much a farm-to-table restaurant, as it is effectively inside a barn. You can see the cows and buy locally-made knitwear and other goodies at their shop. Head to the capital of the North, Akureyri, to find a selection of restaurants of all types and prices. If your budget allows, then the best place for a fancy dinner is

WOW Power to the people

Rub23, another one of Iceland’s best sushi restaurants. But don’t just take our word for it, it also gets a mention in the White Guide, that selects the top restaurants in the Nordic countries. Tryggvaskáli, Slippurinn, Norð Austur and Lava Restaurant all get a mention too.

choice of hamburgers includes seafood, lamb and vegan burgers. Also, there are lovely lobster soups, salmon tartar and fish of the day on the menu. WESTFJORDS AND WEST ICELAND Iceland’s best fish restaurant is quite possibly Tjöruhúsið in Ísafjörður. Here you’ll get a buffet of all kinds of fish for a very reasonable price, both at lunch and dinner time in a very amicable and inviting environment. Expect pans of succulent fish with all sorts of dressings, sauce or trimmings, such as covered in honey mustard, almond flakes or in a creamy sauce with potatoes and fresh salad, as well as excellent seafood soup. They are open

during the summertime and Easter when the town throws a great music festival and it’s free to attend. In the fjord of Breiðafjörður, you’ll come upon the peaceful Flatey Island, accessible by the ferry Baldur. Although a bit pricey, you won’t regret having some seafood at Hotel Flatey (not to be confused with the excellent pizzas at Flatey Pizzeria in Reykjavík). I especially recommend the mussels, but also check out the fish of the day. It’s the only restaurant on the small island, and this restaurant alone makes it worth relaxing there for a few hours.

In the picturesque village of Siglufjörður you’ll find several contestants for the best food stop. However, our personal favorite is Hannes Boy, where you can have a great dish or fish of the day for a reasonable price. Like in many other restaurants around the country, the seafood is key.

And finally, in the small village of Rif, you’ll come across my favorite seafood soup in the country (besides my mother’s recipe, of course). Kaffihús Gamla Rif, or simply Café Rif, dishes up super soups, with a slightly spicy tomato base and delicious accompanying bread. If you still have space, you can always opt for delicious cake for dessert.

If you just want a burger, then Hvammstangi’s Sjávarborg is a charming little surprise. Their

Now you are all set for a foodie road trip around Iceland. Bon appetit!

Tjöruhúsið in Ísafjörður.

VISIT THE ICELANDIC WORLD OF TULIPOP

Visit our flagship store at Skólavörðustígur 43 Shop online at www.tulipop.com Issue one 47

A perfect treat

The Icelandic kleina Icelanders often like to think that their all-time favorite traditional foods are purely Icelandic, but unfortunately that can’t be said about the famous Icelandic kleina (plural: kleinur). Many countries in northern Europe have their version of this delicious fried pastry known as klenät, klena, klejne or fattigmann to name a few. So how come we’ve never heard of them? Photos: Gunnlaugur Rögnvaldsson

ost likely the original kleina is of a German origin seeing as the name for this mouthwatering treat is of Low German origin. “Klein” of course means “small” or “little” in German and in Swedish “klen” means “slender.” The Norwegian name, fattigmann (poor man) is actually not a nod to the pastry’s humble origins but rather a joke on how expensive they were to make; it would leave you poor. JUST LIKE GRANDMA USED TO MAKE

There is written evidence of kleinur going as far back as the 14th century in Denmark, and they also appear in Danish and Icelandic cookbooks in the 18th and 19th century. Traditionally, a kleina is made by mixing flour, egg yolks, sugar and butter or margarine. The dough is then rolled out and cut into strips. In Iceland, we have special cutting wheel especially for this job known as kleinujárn (kleina iron) which gives a good indication of how common kleina making was, and still is, on the island. Each strip is then cut into smaller diamond shaped squares and a little slit is cut in the middle. Once a corner of the diamond square is pulled through the slit, the kleina is ready for deep frying (traditionally in sheep tallow but today we use oil). A good housewife would make a big batch of dough, producing enough kleinur for the coming weeks. Most Icelanders over 35 probably remember their grandmother or possibly their mother kneading and

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frying up a batch of kleinur. Since then households have grown smaller and deep-frying has sort of gone out of style (not to mention the general hassle of deep-frying in one’s home) so most people now rely more on bakeries and grocery stores for their kleina-needs.

be the reason why we claim credit to their fame and call them a traditional Icelandic treat.

If you’d like to try an Icelandic kleina, we recommend them all. We don’t recall ever getting a bad kleina anywhere in Iceland. Buy 10 or 12 small ones together in a bag at the nearest grocery store or go to almost any bakery or coffee selling establishTHE EVERYDAY KLEINA ment (even a gas station) and get a single big one. Perhaps the biggest difference between the Icelandic Some are even big enough for two to share. kleina and its Scandinavian or northern European A kleina is great for dipping into hot chocolate or sisters is the fact that in Iceland kleinur aren’t seen enjoy with cold milk (plain or the chocolate kind). It as treats for special occasions. While our cousins on is the perfect on-the-road picnic; grown-ups and the mainland would traditionally sprinkle them with children love them, and they travel really well. Try sugar and serve around the Yuletide, Icelanders see one every chance you get while visiting Iceland and them as a common everyday pastry, which may also bring a bag home for your friends.

Issue one 49

Icelandic kleina KLEINUR

Served with whey-licorice granita Serves 6 Kleinur (twisted doughnuts): 200 g (7 oz) flour 70 g (2.4 oz) sugar 60 g (2 oz) butter 2 tsp. baking powder 1 egg 1 ¼ dl (½ cup) milk ¾ dl (⅓ cup) buttermilk 1 tsp. cardamom extract or powder ¼ tsp. salt Using an electric mixer, mix all the ingredients slowly until they form an even dough. Roll out the dough until it’s a little under ½ cm (in) thick. Use a kleina iron if you’ve got it and cut the dough diagonally in two directions creat ing diamond shaped squares. Make a little cut into the middle of each diamond. Pull one corner of the diamond through the cut in the middle to create a twist. Deep fry the twisted diamonds in oil at 180°C (356°F) for about 4 minutes or until golden brown on all sides and cooked through. Serve hot with the whey-licorice granita. Whey-licorice granita: 1 ½ dl (⅔ cup) water 1 ½ dl (⅔ cup) whey 1 tbsp. lemon juice Finely grated zest of ½ lemon 200 g (7 oz) sugar 1 tbsp. licorice powder

Fancy kleina with a twist

If you’re anything like us you just can’t get enough of the Icelandic kleina, so we got permission from Chef Úlfar Finnbjörnsson and his publisher to give you his kleina recipe from the book Taste of Iceland.

his is a very traditional recipe for a medi um-sized batch of kleinur, but here they are served with whey-licorice granita which gives them an extra twist. If you’re not doing anything fancy but still want to offer up a special Icelandic treat, just skip the granita and enjoy the simple but delicious kleina.

Deep fry the twisted diamonds in oil at 180°C (356°F) for about 4 minutes or until golden brown on all sides and cooked through. Serve hot with the wheylicorice granita.

BRING THE TASTE OF ICELAND HOME WITH YOU There’s great food to be had in Iceland so why not bring a little taste home with you? For a dinner party worth remembering try some of Chef Finnbjörnsson’s recipes from his award-winning cookbook Taste of Iceland. Taste of Iceland is available at Keflavik Airport and in most bookstores and larger souvenir shops around the country.

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In a saucepan, mix all the ingre dients and let boil for 2 minutes. Let the mixture cool down. Pour the mixture into a baking tin with raised edges or a stainless steel bowl and put in the freezer. Once the mixture begins to freeze, stir with a fork every ½ hour until mixture has turned into coarse ice crystals, but not frozen solid.

You haven't lived until you've tried our chicken-burger!

Crispy Spicy Chicken Burger with crunchy coleslaw tossed in Jalapeño mayo. Vegan option available as well.

We are located at Grandi Mathöll, Icelands most popular food hall by the harbour.

Restaurants open: Monday - Thursday: 11am - 9pm & Friday - Sunday: 11am - 10pm Address: Grandagarður 16 , 101 Reykjavík

Issue one 51

word of advise

Icelandic food:

BEWARE! After telling you all about how delicious, innovative and fresh the Icelandic gastronomy scene is why would we write an article warning people about the dangers of Icelandic food? Well, to tell you the truth, Icelandic food and Icelandic food are two different things, and this article is about the “bad” kind… the “Thorri” kind.

f you’ve ever heard horror stories about Icelandic food it’s probably due to the Thorri food, peddled to foreign visitors as traditional delicacies that they “simply must try.” If you have a sensitive palate and/or stomach, don’t be fooled and tell that lying local to shove it. A TIME FOR BAD FOOD Thorri is an old name for the hardest of the winter months when food began to get scarce in Icelandic homes and peoples first, and foremost thought was to survive this harsh time. Today Icelanders celebrate Thorri by gathering at foul smelling buffets that offer all sorts of regional dishes, invented before the advent of refrigerators, freezers and, apparently, taste buds. Thorri food is either rotten to the core or cured in whey giving it a pale tone and a sour taste. These buffets include some truly awful dishes that few people actually like but those who do, claim to love. Don’t get us wrong; it’s not like Icelanders are elbow deep in whey cured or rotten meat all year round. Thorri buffets are, after all, a cultural matter and for most, just a once-a-year thing where they get their Thorri fix and try to out-do each other by eating as many horrid items off the menu as possible.

THEY EAT WHAT? There are a few selections on the Thorri buffets that are available in shops year-round, and that is the proverbial seal of approval that this type of food isn’t too horrible. These items are for example

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When all is said and done, we do have one caveat to our Thorri food warning, and that is the fermented shark. It is, of course, an acquired taste (like really strong blue cheese) but it is available all year round, and studies have shown it’s beneficial and could prevent cancer.

dried fish (harðfiskur), rye bread, flatkökur (flat bread), smoked lamb, fresh blood sausages and liver sausages. If you are a foreign visitor chances are that a “funny” native looking for a story to tell his or her friends will try to force feed you a bite of the other buffet dishes such as whey cured head cheese (or sour sheep face jelly as they’ll probably call it), fermented shark, sour sheep testicles, sour seal flippers, sour minke whale blubber or putrefied seabird eggs to name just a few of the horrid concoctions. They will probably tell you that this is actually food that all Icelanders eat, and that it’s quite good. Nothing could be further from the truth, and what they’re really after is you retching and gagging so they can make fun of you. ROTTEN SHARK doodoodoodoodoodoo When all is said and done, we do have one caveat to our Thorri food warning, and that is the fermented shark. It is, of course, an acquired taste (like really strong blue cheese) but it is available all year round, and studies have shown it’s beneficial and could prevent cancer. It has a strong smell of ammonia, but if you’re only going to be adventurous once when it comes to these Icelandic treats, the fermented shark is your best bet. It’s the most famous and sort of a rite of passage for visitors. Just make sure you have a shot of Brennivín handy.

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info@vikingtrips.com Issue one 53

Slippbarinn Opening hours: Sundays to Thursdays: 11:30 am – midnight / Fridays and Saturdays: 11:30 am – 1:00 am / Happy hour: every day from 3-6 pm.

Mýrargata 2 101 Reykjavik Tel: +354 560 8080 Email: slippbarinn@icehotels.is www.slippbarinn.is

lippbarinn became an instant hit, with its emphasis on fresh ingredients, creativity and high-quality hand-crafted cocktails. Many fine bars have since followed in Slippbarinn’s footsteps, making the Reykjavík scene exciting to any cocktail connoisseur. But no one else quite lives up to the endless innovation, ambition and sheer style of the inimitable Slippbarinn.

Bright flavors and bold presentation In the kitchen as in the bar, Slippbarinn is guided by its philosophy of flux and creativity. Starting with the solid foundation of a classic dish, the chefs

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Slippbarinn

The birthplace of Icelandic cocktail culture It has already been five years since Slippbarinn opened its doors at the trendy and delightful Icelandair Hotel Reykjavík Marina, but it is still as popular as ever. As it turns out, Reykjavík in 2012 was ripe for a cocktail revolution.

bring their own twist, sometimes bold, sometimes subtle, but always deeply satisfying. An everevolving menu consists of dishes that combine fresh and hearty, wholesome and flavorful, with a dash of adventure. Some classics have earned a permanent place, however. Be sure not to miss the legendary charcuterie (created to share), the expertly prepared calamari, or what might be the best fish soup in the entire city!

Your perfect harbor hangout Almost every town in Iceland is a fishing village at heart. At Slippbarinn, you get right in touch with

Reykjavík’s roots. Located on the old harbor, in view of a still-operational dock, it’s where you can watch fishing vessels being repaired. Slippbarinn is the perfect place to while away an afternoon over a whiskey sour and the catch of the day. When it is time for a caffeine fix, head over to Slippbarinn’s baby brother, the adjoined gourmet café Kaffi slippur. The pastries will melt in your mouth and you will dream of them ever after.

Slippbarinn is the perfect place to while away an afternoon over a whiskey sour and the catch of the day.

VOX Restaurant Tel.: +354 444 5050 | www.vox.is

Geiri Smart Restaurant Hverfisgata 30 | Tel.: +354 528 7050 | geirismart.is

EXTRAORDINARY RESTAURANTS FOR FINE DINING OR A CASUAL LUNCH VISIT APPETITEFORICELAND.COM FOR THE BEST WE HAVE TO OFFER

Icelandair Hotel Akureyri Tel.: +354 518 100 | www.aurorarestaurant.is

Satt Restaurant Tel.: +354 444 4050 | www.sattrestaurant.is Issue one 55

The Drunk Rabbit Irish Pub Opening hours: Sunday – Thursday 12 pm-1 am Friday – Saturday 12 pm-4 am Happy hour: every day from 12-19 pm.

Austurstræti 3 101 Reykjavík Tel: +354 553 1041 E-mail: info@drunkrabbit.is www.facebook.com/drunkrabbit.is www.drunkrabbit.is

f you happen to be in Reykjavik on St. Patrick’s Day, which is also The Drunk Rabbit’s anniversary, be sure to join the celebration.

Happy hour The happy hour, or should we say happy hours, at The Drunk Rabbit are unique with great offers on beers, wines, spirits and ciders from 12-19 every day. Besides the Guinness, eight different local beers and ales are available on tap and more in bottles. The bar is full and the whiskey selection is excel lent. Irish whiskeys, Scotch whiskeys, bourbons and even an Icelandic single malt called Flóki.

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The Drunk Rabbit

Let’s make it Irish The Drunk Rabbit Irish Pub is an authentic Irish watering hole in the heart of downtown Reykjavik. Since its opening on St. Patrick’s Day 2016 it has become a favorite venue for people from all over the world as well as locals. The Drunk Rabbit serves the best Guinness on tap, has perfect Irish coffee and great craic.

Food The Drunk Rabbit is not a restaurant but as in every good Irish pub, there is a small food menu for the hungry ones. The fish & chips are probably the best you’ll find in Iceland.

Entertainment There is always great craic at The Drunk Rabbit where you can watch live sports, football, rugby or whatever you’d like. Just ask the staff if they can show your game and they will try their best to find it. Live music is a big part of the craic here and it’s on seven days a week from 10 pm ‘til closing with

different musicians from all around the world every night. Tuesday nights are session nights starting about 8:30 pm.

The happy hour, or should we say happy hours, at The Drunk Rabbit are unique with great offers on beers, wines, spirits and ciders from 12-19 every day. Besides the Guinness, eight different local beers and ales are available on tap and more in bottles.

Kaldi Bar Opening hours: Sunday-Thursday: 12:00 pm - 01:00 am Friday & Saturday: 12:00 pm 03:00 am Happy our every day from 4-7 pm

A breath of fresh air

Cool as Kaldi

Laugavegur 20b 101 Reykjavik Tel: +354 581 2200 www.kaldibar.com

Kaldi Bar is one of Iceland’s most unique bars. An oasis in central Reykjavík.

t might not be spacious but it makes up for it with great relaxing atmos phere in a rustic setting. Besides the congenial atmosphere, there’s a great outside seating area in a cozy backyard. Known for its wide collection of local micro brews both on draft and in bottles, Kaldi Bar is very popular among locals who check in at happy hour to get their fill of the unfiltered Kaldi brew. Drop by and get to know everybody, they might even give you some good tips on how to become a local.

Kaldi Bar is one of Iceland’s most unique bars. An oasis in central Reykjavík. It might not be spacious but it makes up for it with great relaxing atmosphere in a rustic setting.

Issue one 57

Bastard Beer & Food Open: 11:30 - 01:00 (Sun-Thurs) and 11:30 – 04:00 (Fri – Sat)

A whole new brew Vegamótastígur 4 Reykjavík +354 558 0800 www.bastard.is

Newly opened in summer 2018, Bastard is an aspiring microbrewery in the heart of Reykjavik. H aving already launched two Bastard beers, brewed by Bastard friends—a hearty New England IPA and a gentler amber ale—it is now adding the finishing touches to the gorgeous shiny tanks on show upstairs that will enable it to brew in-house. Propping up the bar are 11 other draft beers, with guest appearances from a range of Icelandic breweries.

Small, yet perfectly formed As well as beer, Bastard Brew & Food does a great line of adventurous gins, craft cocktails, wine and spirits and, of course, food. The menu may be small, but it’s tasty and tempting, with hugely popular Bastard burgers. The crispy grilled flatbreads (think nachos, come pizza) are dripping with garlic butter and adorned with tasty toppings; try a duck confit with pickled chili, or some Parma ham with Portobello mushrooms and Parmesan. Or maybe a soft tortilla with beef, pulled pork or something else that takes your fancy. And, if you get there before 3 pm, you can even get an egg and bacon brunch, perfect with beer!

Cheers Attracting a diverse and lively crowd, Bastard Beer & Food is open every day, and happy hour is from

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4-7 pm. The staff is friendly and the building itself is a fitting tribute to beer and beverages, with its stylish décor, leather stools, bookshelves and banquettes. There’s even a sun terrace (should you be so lucky). Rock up at the weekend for some great music, that adds soul, funk, and disco from decades past to the mix.

Having already launched two Bastard beers, brewed by Bastard friends—a hearty New England IPA and a gentler amber ale—it is now adding the finishing touches to the gorgeous shiny tanks on show upstairs that will enable it to brew in-house.

American Bar Open: Mondays to Thursday from 11:00 am - 1:00 am - Fri - Sat: 11:00 am 4:30 am - Sun: 11:00 am - 1:00 am

Austurstræti 8-10 101 Reykjavik Tel: +354 571 9999 Mobile: +354 697 9003 Find us on Facebook/AmericanBarIceland

American Bar American Bar captures the American spirit; land of the free, home of the brave with a unique selection of beer and a simple yet delicious menu. American Bar is a must-visit when in Reykjavik.

Beer selection second to none With more than 50 different kinds of beer you are sure to find the beer that suits your taste. There’s beer made in the Hawaiian Islands as well as beer made from the famous Icelandic water.

Location and experience Located at the heart of Reykjavik, American Bar is easy to find. Once inside you’ll feel at home right away, especially if you’re an American; with decorations like football helmets (find your favorite team) and the American flag.

Live music, live sport and the Wheel of Fortune Live music every night brings the right atmosphere and if you want to shake it up a bit you can hit the

dance floor on weekends and dance into the crazy Reykjavik night. If you are feeling lucky you can always spin the Wheel of Fortune. Must see that game in the English PL or the Champions League? You will be well taken care of at the American Bar. HD-screens and TVs in every corner make sure that you won’t miss one second of your favorite sport.

Inside and out—all day long With more than 100 seats inside and a great outdoor area on the sunny side (for those wonderful sunny Icelandic summer days) you will always find a seat at a good table. The outside area is truly remarkable, overlooking Dómkirkjan Cathedral and Alþingi (Parliament House). When you think of central Reykjavik this is it! The menu

is simple, yet delicious. The hamburgers, ribs and chicken wings are well-known to the locals for being unique and tasty. Lunch or dinner, live music or dancing, beer or cocktails; the American Bar has it all and is truly worth the visit!

Life is short—Drink early! Located at the heart of Reykjavik, American Bar is easy to find. Once inside you’ll feel at home right away, especially if you’re an American; with decorations like football helmets (find your favorite team) and the American flag.

Issue one 59

The English Pub Opening hours: Sun-Thurs: 12:00 - 01:00 Fri-Sat: 12-04:30 Open at 11 am from May 1st to September 1st.

Austurstræti 12 101 Reykjavik Tel: +354 578 0400 Mobile: +354 697 9003 www.enskibarinn.is. www.enskibarinn.is.

The English Pub – Save water, drink beer For years, Iceland has enjoyed a diverse selection of restaurants and often sophisticated bars. However, one tiny grumble occasionally surfaced from the country’s Anglophiles – simply that there was no proper “pub”.

nd so the English Pub was born. From modest beginnings it has built a hearty reputation, seeking out, with the advice and guidance of its dedicated customers, the finest ale available to mankind. Today it offers its enthusiastic clientele the chance to try a great variety of beers, foreign brands, as well as many local beers that are a must try.

Whisky galore Not content to rest on its laurels, the English Pub has ventured north of its virtual border and also offers the finest selection of whiskies anywhere in the country. Acclaimed assortment of malts includes many of Scotland’s finest, ensuring numerous Icelanders and worldly travelers make

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the pilgrimage to the pub’s humble door. Located at the very heart of downtown Reykjavik, the walls of the English Pub are adorned with hundreds of photographs – like an album of the city’s history just waiting to be explored over a quiet beer.

A sporting chance Live sporting coverage is amply catered for, with a choice of six big screens and two TV screens. Inside the pub there is room for up to 150 people, and an outdoor terrace can accommodate plenty more on those balmy Icelandic evenings! Whether it is football (Premier and Champions League), rugby or golf, there are always special offers when live events are being broadcast. Live music every night adds

to the atmosphere. In addition to the happy hour from 4-7pm every day, and for the ones feeling lucky, there is the Wheel of Fortune. Regulars like nothing more than to spin the wheel and chance a “Sorry” or preferably, win what used to be called a Yard of Ale. These days, it’s inevitably known as a meter of beer, but the winners don’t seem to mind!

Located at the very heart of downtown Reykjavik, the walls of the English Pub are adorned with hundreds of photographs – like an album of the city’s history just waiting to be explored over a quiet beer.

The Lebowski Bar Opening hours: 11:00 – 01:00 Sun-Thurs and 11:00 – 04:00 Fri/Sat Twitter: @LebowskiBar Instagram: #LebowskiBa

Laugavegur 20a 101 Reykjavik Tel: +354 552 2300 email: info@lebowskibar.is www.lebowskibar.is

Lebowski Bar The Reykjavik venue that rocks! Walking into this American retro bar, is stepping back in time. And right away you know it’s the right bar for a few White Russians and a real good time. With carefully chosen music from the 50s to the 80s, the atmosphere in Lebowski Bar comes together giving the good vibration that the Dude would definitely abide by! Just walk in to see what condition your condition is in...

ll kinds of people come here,” the staff proudly explains. “Icelanders, tourists, everybody. With food and music that suits everyone, our customers range from age 20 to 85.” On those rare, but beautiful “warm” days in Iceland, Lebowski is the place to be: the huge outdoor terrace opens whenever the temperature rises above “a steamy 5°C.” But even with all this going for it, what Lebowski Bar prides itself most on is its delicious, diner-style menu with one-of-a-kind burgers, thick and creamy milkshakes, and oh yeah— White Russians. White Russians. Lebowski Bar has over 23 different variations of White Russians, the most popular one being the Cocaucasian, a regular White Russian topped with Cocoa Puffs. Some call it the brunch of champions, others Cocoa Puffs Russian … Either way, it’s delicious!

Where’s the Burger, Lebowski? Made with 150 grams of beef—that’s more than a quarter pound, for the metrically-challenged— Lebowski Bar’s classic burgers always hit the spot and boast a tempting array of toppings and sauces, from chili-marinated bacon to Japanese mayo.

With its perfect balance of sweet and savory, the Honey Boo, a honey-glazed bacon and BBQ-sauce burger, has been called “the best bacon burger in town” (and there are a lot of them to choose from). The Other Lebowski, a steak burger made from extra juicy beef tenderloin, is a staff favorite. Wanna go big? Check out the “Burger of the Month” specialty offerings. Past specialty burgers have included the Once Upon a Time in the West, made with steak tenderloin marinated in La Trappe Quadrupel Ale and served with Jack Daniels BBQ Sauce and caramelized onions, among other tasty toppings. Another limited-time option was the Sgt. Pepper’s Lonely Hearts Club Band, a piquant patty served—appropriately enough—with pepper cheese and chili sauce. Burgers are clearly the house specialty here. For non-beefy options, Lebowski Bar has something for you, too. Try the Bunny Lebowski Chicken Burger, which was declared “gorgeous” by one happy visitor on Trip Advisor, or The Stranger Veggie Burger. And if you’re looking for something lighter, there are plenty of bar snacks—from cheese-stuffed jalapeños to onion rings—to enjoy with your beer.

You’re not wrong, Walter Lebowski Bar opens 11 am for lunch and there is a DJ every night from 9 pm. All big sports events are shown on all 5 Full HD screens. “This Reykjavík place is mind-bending,” Trip Advisor user Graham enthused after a recent visit. “The burgers are massive, the chips chunky and the beers and White Russians flow. There’s a happy hour to bring down Iceland’s high prices, and regular bands playing to bring the film’s rockin’ ethos to life.” Sounds good to us. But you know, that’s just, like, his opinion, man.

Wanna go big? Check out the “Burger of the Month” specialty offerings. Past specialty burgers have included the Once Upon a Time in the West, made with steak tenderloin marinated in La Trappe Quadrupel Ale and served with Jack Daniels BBQ Sauce and caramelized onions, among other tasty toppings.

Issue one 61

Where the locals go Two local secrets on the Reykjavik restaurant scene that will leave you wanting more.

Grái kötturinn

The Gray Cat prides itself on its home made bread, tuna salad, hummus and pancakes. It is frequented by local artists and intellectuals.

The right place to energize for a busy day

he Gray Cat” is a cozy, dimly lit, book-lined café in an old townhouse, and a must visit when in Reykjavik. It opens early (perfect for those who have arrived on the red-eye) and focuses on American style breakfast, lunch and brunch. Although the Cat is famous for their big breakfast dish known as “The Truck,” you will find more on the menu, such as sandwiches, bagels, hummus, eggs & bacon and last but not least; American pancakes. The Gray Cat prides itself on its homemade bread, tuna salad, hummus and pancakes. It is frequented by local artists and intellectuals. So do like the locals; sit down, read a book or plan your day while you eat eggs, pancakes or bagels and drink good coffee (Icelanders take the latter very seriously).

Grái kötturinn I 16a I 101 Reykjavik I Tel: +354 551 1544 I facebook.com/graikotturinn/ I Mon-Fri; 7:30AM-2:30PM I Sat-Sun 8:00AM-2:30PM

Messinn at Grandi

The restaurant is located in an old fishing area close to the city center and offers a relaxed atmosphere and a great view, overlooking the Reykjavík Harbor.

If you want the best fish in Reykjavík, look no further

essinn by the Reykjavík Harbor is a new fish buffet restaurant that offers pan fried fish served in cast iron skillets, emphasizing fresh quality material in every way. The restaurant is located in an old fishing area close to the city center and offers a relaxed atmosphere and a great view, overlooking the Reykjavík Harbor. Another Messinn restaurant, located in the city center offers similar dishes and is rated as one of the top five restaurants in Reykjavík on TripAdvisor. The most popular courses are the fried Arctic char with honey and almonds, the Atlantic wolffish in a creamy mushroom sauce and the plaice fried with tomatoes, capers, lemon and butter.

Messinn I Grandagarður 8 and Lækjargata 6b I Tel: +354 562 1515 I messinn.com

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Never mind the chocolate, puffin dolls or the key ring. If you really want a souvenir that will last, a tattoo is the way to go.

WEBSTORE

You can also shop our merchandise and more at our shop or online at www.reykjavikink.is /reykjavikink

/reykjavikink

reykjavikink@reykjavikink.is

We are open Monday – Saturday 12 pm-8pm - We are located on Frakkastíg 7, 101 Reykjavík

Issue one 63

Den Danske Kro Opening hours: Sun-Thurs 12:00 – 01:00 and Fri-Sat 12:00 – 05:00

Den Danske Kro Ingólfsstræti 3 101 Reykjavík Tel: +354 552 0070 www.dendanske.is

When in Iceland, go Danish! A vibrant place on the Reykjavík social scene is Den Danske Kro or “The Danish Pub,” a popular downtown venue with locals with happy hour and with live music every night.

en Danske Kro serves a variety of beers, in addition to familiar names such as Tuborg and Carlsberg, the Danish Pub serves a selection of seasonal beers from both Denmark and Iceland. During the Christmas months, Den Danske Kro is the home of the Tuborg Christmas Beer or “Julebryg,” a popular drink in Iceland during the darkest months.

check out the interior of the pub and you’ll discover an off-the-wall design in its most literal sense! Den Danske Kro is a great place to hang out with friends, play darts, watch sports, enjoy the occasional sun and watch the world go by on the outside terrace. And to get into the spirit of things, we recommend you try a glass of the customary Gammel Dansk bitters, a traditional Danish schnapps.

Cozy Copenhagen style

The place to party

The Danes have a word to describe a cozy, friendly atmosphere—“hyggelig” and that’s something the owners of the Danish Pub have worked hard to create in this home away from home within a pub. Just

Den Danske Kro, as said before, is a popular venue among locals, and as soon as happy hour kicks off, the place starts filling up with people from the neighborhood and others who want to finish the

WOW Power to the people

workday with a cold beer. Every night there’s live music where you can request your all-time favorite. During the weekend Den Danske Kro is open late. The bartenders will be happy to see you and you are welcome to dance and sing with the guests until the morning.

Den Danske Kro serves a variety of beers, in addition to familiar names such as Tuborg and Carlsberg, the Danish Pub serves a selection of seasonal beers from both Denmark and Iceland.

Kopar Restaurant Opening hours: Mondays to Thursday from 11:30-22:30 Fridays from 11:30-23:30 Saturdays from 12:00-23:30 Sundays from 18:00-22:30

Kopar Restaurant by the old harbor Kopar Restaurant is situated by Reykjavik‘s romantic harbor, in one of the old green fisherman‘s huts.

he fishing industry still thrives in Reykjavik, so the old harbor is full of life. In the morning, fishermen go out to sea and return later with their catch of the day. As you stand on the pier you can feel the history of Reykjavik and watch the harbor life: fishing boats, fishermen, the catch, and young kids with their rods trying their luck off the pier. Meanwhile passersby are walking about and enjoying life. This fresh and energetic atmosphere of the old harbor is all part of the experience when you dine at Kopar. Kopar is a seafood restaurant

featuring locally caught seafood and crustaceans. They are especially proud of their crab soup, made with Icelandic rock crab from Hvalfjordur. Kopar offers a variety of Icelandic produce, including wild game, although the main emphasis is seafood, the fruit of the ocean. Kopar‘s head chef, Ylfa, is a member of the gold medal winning national culinary team. She pre pares the seafood in a unique and delicate manner, intent on giving you an unforgetable experience.

Geirsgata 3 101 Reykjavik Tel: +354 567 2700 www.koparrestaurant.is info@koparrestaurant.is

Delight yourself with great service and atmosphere, delicious food and the best view in town. When visit ing Reykjavik, enjoying a night out at Kopar is a must.

Kopar‘s head chef, Ylfa, is a member of the gold medal winning national culinary team. She prepares the seafood in a unique and delicate manner, intent on giving you an unforgetable experience.

Issue one 65

Base Hotel Hostel at Ásbrú

Valhallarbraut 756-757, 235 Reykjanesbær, Iceland Tel: +354 519 1300

The Base at Ásbrú

www.basehotel.is e-mail: basehotel@basehotel.is

The recently opened Base HotelHostel at Ásbrú is a budget accommodation conveniently located near Keflavik Airport on the Reykjanes Peninsula.

he Base by Keflavik Airport is at a former NATO base used by the US Army until 2006. The hotel is actually located in two buildings where US Army families once resided and it embraces the 55-year history of the army’s presence in Iceland in its overall theme, with quirky little touches and photographs. “We looked to the area’s history and decided to create a positive concept revolving around that history. A big part of the design process was creating a warm, comfortable and fun space that could hold all this modern art that’s now on display. To add to the challenge, everything we did had to be low-cost and to keep costs down we kept a lot of the furniture that was left in the house. A good example of that are the rocking chairs found in most rooms, which have been sat in by many soldiers these past decades,” said hotel designer Leifur Welding. PERFECT FOR STOPOVERS The Base is perfect for short stopovers in Iceland and as a base for exploring the Reykjanes Peninsula and Southwest Iceland. The affordable rooms cater to all types of travelers. “Base Hotel has something for everyone, the lone traveler just looking for a place to rest, the couple for a fun place to be, or the family needing more space. With their community kitchens, laundry room, TV lounges, library, game room, 24-hour reception

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and bar and shuttle to the airport we try to meet everyone’s needs without abandoning our policy of being the most affordable accommodation in the area. The Base is not just a place to stay, it’s a place to live, even if it’s just for a few days,” says Base Hotel manager Richard Eckard. At The Base you’ll find hostel-style dorm rooms for the extremely cost conscious, suites for the private but thrifty and anything in between for everyone else who just like to stay within their budget but still get a good night’s rest. YOUR BASE IN ICELAND The Base seeks to celebrate the history of “the Base” while offering cheap accommodation and giving guests who travel to Iceland the perfect base to explore the Reykjanes Peninsula. The Base is conveniently located close to Keflavik Airport providing ease on your arrival and departure days and saving you precious time during a brief WOW Stopover. The Reykjanes Peninsula is a geologically young area displaying Iceland’s magnificent nature. From the Northern Lights to helicopter flights—whale watching to geothermal springs, the Reykjanes Peninsula’s got it all. Get comfortable and check out www.basehotel.is for more information and booking.

Issue one 67

Sæta svínið – Gastropub Opening hours: Every day from 11:30 am to 11:30 pm

Sæta svínið – Gastropub Hafnarstræti 1-3 101 Reykjavik Tel 555-2900 www.saetasvinid.is www.facebook.com/saetasvinid saetasvinid@saetasvinid.is

Local food done right One of the newest additions to the Reykjavík food scene is the newly opened gastropub Sæta svínið (e. Sweet pig).

astropubs are all about bringing upscale food to casual dining and Sæta svínið has proven that the format is a popular one with both locals and visitors. Sæta svínið’s culinary focus is on tasty and fun food made with fresh and local Icelandic ingredients. The “Icelandic journey” is ideal if you want to try various Icelandic produce, both the adventurous; from smoked puffin to horse carpaccio and the staples; market fresh ling, traditional “flatkaka” with cured arctic char, free-range Icelandic lamb and “skyr.”

WOW Power to the people

Other must-try options are the Icelandic lamb dishes, lamb sandwich lamb shoulder and lamb shank. And for a great sweet ending the mini version of the Icelandic pastry “kleinur” is perfect for dessert.

Local beer Sæta svínið offers a unique selection of Icelandic beer—20 bottled and 10 on draft. You can also try one of the Icelandic beer tours, where you can taste four sample-size varieties of Icelandic beer. Or you can stop by the happiest happy hour in town every day from 3-6 pm where all drinks are half price and

small plates are on special happy hour price. Sæta svínið is a perfect place to drop by for lunch, late lunch, dinner or drinks in a casual and fun atmosphere. With their eclectic décor full of fun pig references, the atmosphere is both fun and friendly.

"Gastropubs are all about bringing upscale food to casual dining and Sæta svínið has proven that the format is a popular one with both locals and visitors."

NATURE PARADISE IN BREIDAFJORDUR AND VESTMANNAEYJAR ICELAND'S LARGEST & SMALLEST INHABITED ISLANDS

West-Iceland and to Vestmannaeyjar of the South coast. Book your trip on seatours.is Issue one 69

Food high

Airplane meals that will take you places

Everyone knows that airplanes aren’t exactly gourmet restaurants, but still there are some tasty dishes to be had in the air, especially if you plan well and order your meal in advance. WOW air’s pre-order menu is surprisingly extensive offering both vegan and gluten-free dishes in addition to listing all known allergens for every dish. Before you hop on board, go to “My booking” on our website and select your air “fare” from our pre-order menu. You can also check out our in-flight offerings online.

The best meals on board.

No 1 Vegan Falafel

Many meat lovers scroll right past this dish when they see the word vegan, but that would be a mistake. Served with salad, chickpeas and beets, this Vegan Falafel is fresh and tasty and really hits the spot. For another type of vegan fare try the “Vegan on a Roll” from our in-flight menu.

No 2

The WOW sandwiches The WOW Club Sandwich and the Ham & Cheese Baguette are the absolute top sellers onboard any WOW air flight. Why? Because it’s hard to go wrong with a sandwich. In the WOW Club Sandwich, tender chicken and crispy bacon take center stage in a delicious production. Supported by fresh talents such as lettuce and tomatoes, the plot thickens when avocado and mango sauce are introduced to the mix. The ever-popular Ham & Cheese Baguette is a pretty basic ham and cheese on white bread concoction, but the magic is in the heating. And sometimes the basics are what you crave. We often run out of this mid-flight, but you’re in luck because both these sandwiches can be ordered through the pre-order menu too.

No 3 WOWburger

Our WOWburger is made with 100% beef, fresh vegetables, cool dressing and topped and bottomed with a soft bun. So basically it’s a regular hamburger, but you’re flying with WOW air, so it has a WOW name. That’s just how we do things here!

No 4

Sweet Chili Chicken Simple and sweet, the Sweet Chili Chicken on WOW air’s menu is served with sweet potatoes, brown rice and, you guessed it, sweet chili sauce. It’s both tasty and satisfying.

To pre-order meals for your flight go to WOW air’s homepage and click on “my booking” in the top right corner. Enter your booking information and select any extra service you want for your flight, from extra legroom seats to in-flight meals and anything in between.

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NO NEED TO WAIT FOR YOUR BAGS if you do what the locals do and pick up some duty free goods in the arrival store before your luggage www.dutyfree.is

THE DUTY FREE ALLOWANCE IS 6 UNITS OF ALCOHOL, ANY WAY YOU LIKE IT Use the duty free allowance calculator on our website, www.dutyfree.is, to determine how to make the best use of your allowance.

Issue one 71

Vatnajökull Region

It’s all about the langoustine The town Höfn in the Vatnajökull Region, known as The Lobster Capital of Iceland is famous for its lobster, or more accurately langoustine. Langoustine is served in most restaurants in the region and they also offer fresh locally grown vegetables, farm fresh ice cream and meat products. Photos: Gunnar Sverrisson and Áslaug Snorradóttir, courtesy of Visit Vatnajokull

n Höfn, several restaurants serve various lobster dishes among other dishes. Down by the harbor are the restaurants Pakkhús, Humarhöfnin, Íshúsið Pizzeria and the diner Hafnarbúðin. From these restaurants, you can get a glimpse of the activity around the harbor and sometimes see the boats sail in with the fresh catch of the day.

WHAT’S COOKING IN THOSE HISTORIC HOUSES? Some of the restaurants, such as Humarhöfnin and Pakkhús, are in historic buildings that once had other purposes. Humarhöfnin was owned by the Farmers’ Co-op and served as a department store until 1963 and Pakkhús, mainly built from scrap wood of other houses, was a warehouse. The stamps on the walls are original. Íshúsið Pizzeria stands on the same spot as the old Icehouse did at the beginning of the 19th century, but then it was used to store big ice cubes that were transferred from a local glacier lagoon in trucks to cool the fish by the harbor to keep it fresh. Pakkhús Restaurant emphasizes cooking with fresh, local ingredients. You’ll find unique plates like smoked lamb and goose and Icelandic Skyr Volcano dessert on the menu, but the most popular dish is the grilled langoustines closely followed by the fillet of lamb and Skyr Volcano. At Humarhöfnin you can experience the unique taste of the local Icelandic langoustine in a charming setting. Their most popular dishes are a grand mix of whole langoustine and additional tails grilled with butter, parsley and garlic. Íshúsið Pizzeria emphasizes thin stone baked pizzas along with a varied selection of other dishes, using high-quality local ingredients, such as the famous local langoustine. The signature dish of the restaurant is the Lobster Festival Pizza. Their unique blonde pizza con sists of a garlic oil base, mozzarella cheese, langoustine (local lobster), cherry tomatoes, grilled artichokes and pesto on top—a must try when in Höfn. Hafnarbúðin is a lively diner by the harbor in Höfn, an authentic place where you can stop and have a chat while you enjoy a lobster baguette, fish and chips or a good burger. You

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can also order takeout. Fast service, reasonable prices and simple good food are what Hafnarbúðin stands for. Their Lobster Baguette is always on top of the list. Nothing beats local langoustine on sourdough bread with vegetables and a homemade garlic dressing. Simple, fresh and tasty. BUT WAIT, THERE’S MORE A bit from the harbor is Z-Bistro. The Z in the name comes from old car plates in the area when they all used to start with the letter Z. Z-Bistro offers a diverse menu both fish and meat and their lobster (of course langoustine) salad is terrific. By the main road, you can find Kaffi Hornið (the coffee corner), where you can enjoy homemade bread and a salad bar at lunch among other tasty items. Kaffi Hornið emphasizes local ingredients like lamb and langoustine. Their langoustine sandwich with fried tails, vegetables and garlic sauce is well worth a taste. Finally, there’s Hótel Höfn – Ósinn, founded by two local families in 1966. From the top floor, there’s a beautiful glacier view that goes well with their lobster laden selection of lobster tails, lobster as a starter, lobster pasta, lobster soup, lobster spring rolls, lobster pizza and much more. The most popular dish is the Lobster Feast, a combination of three different types of lobster (yes, we’re still talking langoustine). You get a homemade lobster soup, a homemade lobster spring roll and garlic roasted lobster tails. It’s no wonder Höfn is called The Lobster Capital of Iceland. Although lobster, aka langoustine, is the main ingredient at Höfn’s restaurants, meat lovers and vegetarians can also find something they’ll like on their menus. If you are visiting Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon, we surely recommend a drive to Höfn to dine in one of their terrific restaurants.

For more information go to visitvatnajokull.is or follow them on social media such as Facebook (visitvatnajokull.is), Instagram (visitvatnajokull) or Twitter (vatnajokull_reg).

Issue one 73

Ísafjörður

Stykkishólmur

Borgarnes Akranes Geysir

Gullfoss

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OPENING

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Issue one 75

Taste of the town

street food Reykjavík

Only a few years ago there was no such thing as a street food scene in Reykjavík, but in recent years, months and weeks that’s all been changing. by Nanna Gunnars Photos: Gunnlaugur Rögnvaldsson

oday it’s hard to keep up with all the latest street food markets and pop-up stands! It seems that every week there is a new arrival on the scene and by summertime the number of pop-up shops and markets will surely have doubled.

This goes hand in hand with more restaurants and cafés opening up in the city and never before has Reykjavík had such a variety of food and from all corners of the world. Street food has the advantage of being quick and affordable, or as affordable as food can get in Iceland, so it is the perfect option for those who are in a hurry or those tourists that want to try many different kinds of food on their trip. So, if you’d like to find some of the best juicy, greasy, healthy, vegan or experimental street food there is to find in Reykjavík, get ready! STREET FOOD STANDS

So, if you’d like to find some of the best juicy, greasy, healthy, vegan or experimental street food there is to find in Reykjavík, get ready!

Street food trucks or stands in Reykjavík are still few and far between, and mainly pop up during the summertime (in increased numbers). The weather is just too cold and uninviting for most outdoor trucks to handle it in winter. However, there’s one type of street food stand that has survived for decades, and that one sells Icelandic hot dogs. Usually found outside swimming pools (as the perfect post-swim snack), the most famous hot dog stand is situated in the center of Reykjavík, right by the city’s flea market Kolaportið. This hot dog stand has served the likes of Bill Clinton and Kim Kardashian, as well as thousands of locals that order “one with everything.” One With Everything is a hot dog served in a soft bun with raw onion, fried crunchy onion, ketchup, mustard, and a local mayonnaise-and-onion based sauce called remoulade. Of course you can then omit one or more condiments from the hot dog, but it’s a local recommendation to have it all. Trust me. This is also the cheapest meal you’ll find in the country. Other common street food stands are seen around downtown during weekends, or by the popular tourist spot of Hallgrímskirkja Church, mostly selling sweet treats such as waffles, donuts, cinnamon buns or the Icelandic pastry “kleina.” And if you head towards the Grandi fish packing area, you’ll be sure to find the best fish & chips food truck in the city, labeled with the passive aggressive message “British tradition, Icelandic quality.” For another fishy treat, check out the lobster truck that sells sandwiches filled with langoustine tails.

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Issue oneOĚ mar Sverrisson. Hlemmur Food Hall. Photo

Taste of the town

GRANDI FOOD HALL Another food hall opened up in the harbor area of Grandi in the summer of 2018. With a similar concept to Hlemmur Food Hall, it has also become a popular food stop for both locals and foreigners all year round. Sheltered from the outdoors, it offers nine different street food vendors, from Korean fried chicken, Icelandic lamb or fusion fish and chips to raw salmon with prosecco. One pop-up truck changes every two months as it allows foodie entrepreneurs to check out new ideas, helping them to establish themselves in the Icelandic food scene before launching a restaurant of their own. So here you’ll be sure to test the newest thing on the scene when it comes to Icelandic street food.

HLEMMUR FOOD HALL One of the major changes that happened to street food culture in Reykjavík was when the first permanent food hall opened. Hlemmur Mathöll (Hlemmur Food Hall) began operation in August 2017. This is an indoor food market, where hungry guests can buy anything from newly baked bread and fresh ground coffee to hearty soups, vegan burgers, fish of the day, or more upscale experimental dishes with a selection of wines or cocktails. Inside, there are ten different food vendors, including a café, a bakery, a Mexican restaurant, a Vietnamese restaurant and a grocery shop with soups and juicy sandwiches that also sells fresh flowers and herbs. Several other restaurants in the hall offer an Icelandic cuisine.

Fjárhúsið at Grandi Mathöll serves a delicious lamb spear!

On the same street, you can find a variety of foodie pit stops. This area has become famous as the “fish packing district” of Reykjavík and hosts hip designer shops, lively cafés, galleries, restaurants and delis. You can, for example, sample tea at the Japanese teahouse Kumiko, check out some of the city’s best ice cream at the experimental ice cream parlor Valdís (liquorice and pepper ice cream anyone?), and choose from a number of artisan cheeses at Búrið. You can shop for local meat products at Kjötkompaní, or try the Moroccan flavored kebabs at Lamb Street Food, the sourdough pizzas at Flatey Pizzeria or the excellent brunch at Cuckoo’s Nest. Grandimatholl.

POP-UP STREET FOOD MARKETS AND FESTIVALS A number of street food markets have popped up in recent years in Reykjavík, such as the outdoors Christmas market at Hlemmur Food Hall and the outdoors food market Krás that’s a few years running. There’s also a regular artisan street food fair in Harpa Concert Hall and the street food Box Market that was set up in the Skeifan area during in the summer of 2018. Only time will tell which of these will continue to thrive in the upcoming years, or if new ones will take their place. Changes happen fast in this Nordic capital.

Its location is very central, and at one of the city’s main bus stations, so it’s the perfect place to grab a bite to eat before or after a bus ride if you’re traveling within Reykjavík or going just outside the city.

There are also a few annual food festivals to look out for, such as the Reykjavík Food Festival (formerly known as the Reykjavík Bacon Festival) taking place in July, Food & Fun Festival that takes place in March and the Icelandic Beer Festival in February.

ICELANDIC TRADITIONAL STREET FOOD If you’re looking for authentic Icelandic traditional food, then head to Icelandic Street Food, a small restaurant found on Lækjargata Street in central Reykjavík. Here you can buy seafood soup or traditional meat soup served in a bread bowl, with as many refills as you need. Alternatively, you can get a fish stew, AKA plokkfiskur, accompanied by Icelandic dark rye bread.

Surrounding the food hall, you’ll find some Asian fast food restaurants, such as Noodle Station and Mai Thai, both offering affordable and tasty, quick meals. If you want to dine sitting down, head to Ban Thai, a restaurant that’s a local favorite known for its incredible food, but slow service.

Another location right opposite Hallgrímskirkja Church is Loki Café where you can fill up on traditional Icelandic dishes such as flatbread with smoked lamb or smoked salmon, skyr and kleinur.

VEGAN AND VEGETARIAN

Valdís (liquorice and pepper ice cream anyone?).

WOW Power to the people

Neither one can rightfully claim to be street food, but the plentiful vegan dishes at the bright Kaffi Vínyl and the juicy vegan grub found at Veganæs inside dive bar Gaukurinn must be mentioned here. Although both are a sit-down affair, they have the quick service of a street foodstand and can be enjoyed while watching a live show on the

premises. The garlicky Kawaii sandwich at Vínyl, as well as their vegetarian lasagna, is to die for (although no-one has to die for it), as well as the burnt beer battered cheese sandwich at Veganæs, served with fries and spicy mayo. It’s vegetarian heaven! No matter if you’re vegan, vegetarian or a habitual meat-eater, these are a must try.

LATE NIGHT SNACKS After a long night out drinking, two sandwich shops serve juicy subs that are the perfect late-night nibble. They are Nonnabátar (AKA Nonni) and Hlöllabátar (AKA Hlölli). Think Subway, except much greasier, therefore very unhealthy, but both are a delicious guilty pleasure. You can also head to Deli or Devito’s Pizza for a slice of pizza, or three, before heading home.

BEST KEBABS IN TOWN? There’s an eternal rivalry between the neighboring Ali Baba and Mandí as to who serves the best kebabs in town. Run by two brothers in adjoining houses, both have loyal customers that swear by the superiority of one over the other. And then there are those that suggest going into the suburbs or neighboring towns to get kebabs, such as at the Viking Kebab in Kópavogur or the Greek House in Grafarvogur. And then the hipsters head to Lamb Street Food at Grandi harbor. The only way to find your favorite is to try them all.

Bæjarins bestu, the famous Icelandic hot dog stand in the center of Reykjavik.

NORTHERN LIGHTS BY BOAT

THE ORIGINAL NORTHERN LIGHTS BY BOAT TOUR

Undoubtedly, by the time you’ve read this article, at least five new pop-ups have opened, so be sure to ask around for the hottest street food spot in town!

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Fish and chips.

Issue one 79

s Declaration Fo

The U.S. Custom

Pour remplir ce formulaire, utilisez uniquement des majuscules. Si vous faites une erreur, notre personnel vous donnera un nouveau formulaire. Chaque voyageur entrant ou chef de famille entrant doit fournir les informations suivantes (UNE SEULE déclaration par famille)

What is this and why do I need to fill this out? Before you arrive in the U.S., you will need to fill out the US Customs Declaration Form. If you‘re traveling with your family only the head of the family needs to fill out the form. When you arrive on US soil you will hand this form to the U.S. Customs agent.

Français Le formulaire de déclaration en douane américaine

Qu’est-ce que c’est et pourquoi dois-je en remplir un? Avant votre arrivée aux États-Unis, vous devrez remplir le formulaire de déclaration en douane américaine. Si vous voyagez avec votre famille, seul le chef de famille doit le remplir. Lorsque vous arrivez sur le sol américain, vous donnez ce formulaire aux autorités douanières américaines. Si vous voyagez avec des fruits, nous vous recommandons de les jeter avant ou pendant votre vol vers les États-Unis mais que se passe-t-il si vous répondez « oui » à l’une de ces questions ? Ce n’est pas aussi terrible que ça en a l’air et dire la vérité vous évitera pas mal d’ennuis et une amende pouvant aller jusqu’à 300 $. Consultez la page 82 pour obtenir plus d’informations si vous répondez « OUI ».

browse and shop over 870 ICELANDIC BRANDS tax and duty free

WOW Power to the people

Nom, Prénom, Initiale du deuxième prénom.

Date de naissance Jour/Mois/Année.

Nombre de personnes voyageant avec vous.

(a) Adresse Aux États-Unis (Destination ou nom de l‘hôtel) (b) Ville (c) Etat

Lieu de délivrace du passeport (nom du pays)

Numéro de passeport

Pays de résidence

Pays visités pendant ce voyage avant l‘arrivée aux aux Etats-Unis

9. Ligne aérienne / numéro du vol / Nom de vaisseau 10. Vous voyagez pour raison d‘affaires: OUI/NON 11.

Je suis / nous sommes porteurs de (a) fruits, plantes, produits alimentaires, insectes: OUI/NON (b) viandes, animaux, produits provenant d‘animaux ou d’animaux sauvages: OUI/NON (c) agents pouvant causer des maladies, cultures cellulaires, escargots: OUI/NON

This Space For Official Use Only

U.S. Customs and Border Protection Welcomes You to the United States

(d) terre. J‘ai / Nous avons visité une exploitation agricole en dehors des Etats-Unis: OUI/NON

12. J‘ai / nous avons touché ou traité du bétail: OUI/NON 13.

Je suis / nous sommes porteurs d‘espèces ou d‘instruments monétaires d‘une valeur équivalente en monnaie des États Unis ou de tout autre pays (Voir définition d‘instruments monétaire au verso) á plus de 10 000$ US: OUI/NON

14.

Je suis / nous sommes en possession de marchandises commerciales (articles des tinés à la vente, échantillon de démonstration ou tout autre article autresque des effets personnels): OUI/NON

15.

Résidents - la valeur totale des biens, y compris la marchandise commerciale, que j’ai/nous avons achetés ou acquis à l’étranger (y compris les cadeaux pour une autre personne, mais pas les articles envoyés aux États-Unis) et que je/ nous rapportons aux États-Unisest de: montant en USD

Visiteurs - La valeur totale de tous les articles qui resteront aux États-Unis, y compris la marchandise commerciale est de : USD Signez sur la ligne pour déclarer que votre déclaration est véridique.

Customs Declaration

FORM APPROVED OMB NO.1651-0009

19 CFR 122.27, 148.12, 148.13, 148.110, 148.111, 1498; 31 CFR 5316

Each arriving traveler or responsible family member must provide the following information (only ONE written declaration per family is required). The term "family" is defined as "members of a family residing in the same household who are related by blood, marriage, domestic relationship, or adoption." 1 Family Name Middle

First (Given) 2 Birth date

Month

Day

Year

3 Number of Family members traveling with you 4 (a) U.S. Street Address (hotel name/destination) (b) City 5 Passport issued by (country) 6 Passport number 7 Country of Residence 8 Countries visited on this trip prior to U.S. arrival 9 Airline/Flight No. or Vessel Name Yes

(a) fruits, vegetables, plants, seeds, food, insects:

Yes

(b) meats, animals, animal/wildlife products:

Yes

(d) soil or have been on a farm/ranch/pasture:

Yes

12 I have (We have) been in close proximity of livestock: Yes

11 I am (We are) bringing

(such as touching or handling) 13 I am (We are) carrying currency or monetary instruments over $10,000 U.S. or foreign equivalent:

Yes

(see definition of monetary instruments on reverse) 14 I have (We have) commercial merchandise: (articles for sale, samples used for soliciting orders, or goods that are not considered personal effects)

15 RESIDENTS—the total value of all goods, including commercial merchandise I/we have purchased or acquired abroad, (including gifts for someone else but not items mailed to $ the U.S.) and am/are bringing to the U.S. is: VISITORS—the total value of all articles that will remain in the U.S., including commercial merchandise is:

Read the instructions on the back of this form. Space is provided to list all the items you must declare. I HAVE READ THE IMPORTANT INFORMATION ON THE REVERSE SIDE OF THIS FORM AND HAVE MADE A TRUTHFUL DECLARATION.

X Signature

Deutsch

Die US-amerikanische Zollerklärung

Was ist das und warum muss ich dieses Formular ausfüllen? Vor der Ankunft in den USA müssen Sie das Formular der US-Zoller klärung ausfüllen. Wenn Sie mit Ihrer Familie unterwegs sind, braucht nur das Familienoberhaupt dieses Formular ausfüllen. Wenn Sie US-Boden betreten, übergeben Sie dieses Formular dem US-Zoll.

10 The primary purpose of this trip is business:

U.S. Customs and Border Protection is responsible for protecting the United States against the illegal importation of prohibited items. CBP officers have the authority to question you and to examine you and your personal property. If you are one of the travelers selected for an examination, you will be treated in a courteous, professional, and dignified manner. CBP Supervisors and Passenger Service Representatives are available to answer your questions. Comment cards are available to compliment or provide feedback. Important Information U.S. Residents—declare all articles that you have acquired abroad and are bringing into the United States. Visitors (Non-Residents)—Declare the value of all articles that will remain in the United States. Declare all articles on this declaration form and show the value in U.S. dollars. For gifts, please indicate the retail value. Duty—CBP officers will determine duty. U.S. residents are normally entitled to a duty-free exemption of $800 on items accompanying them. Visitors (non-residents) are normally entitled to an exemption of $100. Duty will be assessed at the current rate on the first $1,000 above the exemption. Agricultural and Wildlife Products—To prevent the entry of dangerous agricultural pests and prohibited wildlife, the following are restricted: Fruits, vegetables, plants, plant products, soil, meat, meat products, birds, snails, and other live animals or animal products. Failure to declare such items to a Customs and Border Protection Officer/ Customs and Border Protection Agriculture Specialist/Fish and Wildlife Inspector can result in penalties and the items may be subject to seizure. Controlled substances, obscene articles, and toxic substances are generally prohibited entry.

Date (month/day/year)

CBP Form 6059B (04/14)

The transportation of currency or monetary instruments, regardless of the amount, is legal. However, if you bring in to or take out of the United States more than $10,000 (U.S. or foreign equivalent, or a combination of both), you are required by law to file a report on FinCEN 105 (formerly Customs Form 4790) with U.S. Customs and Border Protection. Monetary instruments include coin, currency, travelers checks and bearer instruments such as personal or cashiers checks and stocks and bonds. If you have someone else carry the currency or monetary instrument for you, you must also file a report on FinCEN 105. Failure to file the required report or failure to report the total amount that you are carrying may lead to the seizure of all the currency or monetary instruments, and may subject you to civil penalties and/or criminal prosecution. SIGN ON THE OPPOSITE SIDE OF THIS FORM AFTER YOU HAVE READ THE IMPORTANT INFORMATION ABOVE AND MADE A TRUTHFUL DECLARATION.

Wenn Sie auf Ihrer Reise Obst mit sich führen, empfehlen wir Ihnen, dies vor oder während dem Flug in die USA zu entsorgen. Aber was geschieht, wenn Sie eine dieser Fragen mit Ja beantworten? Das ist nicht so schrecklich, wie Sie vielleicht denken, und Ehrlichkeit spart Ihnen eine Menge Ärger und eine mögliche Geldstrafe von bis zu 300$. Siehe Seite 82 für weitere Informationen zur Antwort JA.

Bitte verwenden Sie beim Ausfüllen dieses Formulars nur Großbuchstaben. Falls Sie einen Fehler machen wird Ihnen unsere Crew ein neues Description of Articles CBP (List may continue on another CBP Form 6059B) Value Use Only Formular geben. Jeder ankommende Reisende bzw. jedes verantwortliche Familienmitglied muss die folgenden Angaben machen (es ist pro Familie nur EINE schriftliche Erklärung erforderlich) 1.

Familienname, Vorname, Zweiter Vorname

Geburtsdatum / Tag/Monat/Jahr

Anzahl der mit Ihnen reisenden Familienmitglieder

(a) Adresse/genaue Anschrift in den USA (Name des Hotels/Reiseziel) (b) Stadt CBP Form 6059B (04/14) (c) Staat

Total

PAPERWORK REDUCTION ACT STATEMENT: An agency may not conduct or sponsor an information collection and a person is not required to respond to this information unless it displays a current valid OMB control number. The control number for this collection is 1651-0009. The estimated average time to complete this application is 4 minutes. Your response is mandatory. If you have any comments regarding the burden estimate you can write to U.S. Customs and Border Protection Office of Regulations and Rulings, 90 K Street, NE, 10th Floor, Washington, DC 20229.

Don’t worry about your airport shopping and souvenirs . You are allowed to take on board both your carry-on luggage and your airport shopping.

W W W. K E FA I R P O R T. I S

Issue one 81

s Declaration Fo

The U.S. Custom 5.

Pass ausgestellt von (Land)

Passnummer

Ständiger Wohnsitz (Land)

Auf dieser Reise besuchte Länder vor Ihrer Ankunft in den USA

(c) Krakheitserreger, Zellkulturen, Schnecken: JA/NEIN (d) Erde, oder waren Sie auf einem Bauernhof/ einer Ranch/ Weide: JA/NEIN 12. Ich war (wir waren) in unmittelbarer Nähe von Vieh/ Nutztieren (z.B. Anfassen oder Umgang damit): JA/NEIN

9. Fluggesellschaft/Flugnummer oder Name des Schiffes 10. Der Hauptanlass dieser Reise ist geschäftlich: JA/NEIN 11. Ich (wir) führen folgende Waren ein: (a) Früchte, Pflanzen, Lebensmittel, Insekten: JA/NEIN (b) Fleisch, Tiere, Tier- oder Wildprodukte: JA/NEIN

13.

Ich führe (wir führen) mehr als $US 10,000 in Bargeld oder Zahlungsmitteln oder den Gegenwert in anderen ausländischen Währungen mit (Siehe die Definition von Gegenstände zum persönlichen Gebrauch gelten): JA/NEIN

14. Ich führe (wir führen) kommerzielle Waren mit. (Verkaufsware, Muster zur Werbung von

Aufträgen oder Artikel, die nicht als Gegenstände zum persönlichen Gebrauch gelten): JA/NEIN

15.

US-Bürger - der Gesamtwert aller Waren, einschließlich Handelswaren die ich/wir erworben habe(n) oder im Ausland erworben habe(n) (einschließlich Geschenke für andere, nicht aber Sendungen in die USA) und in die USA einführe(n) lautet: Betrag in US-$ Besucher - der Gesamtwert aller Artikel einschließlich Handelswaren, die in den USA verbleiben ist: $

Auf der Linie unterschreiben, um zu erklären, dass Sie eine wahrheitsgemäße Erklärung abgeben.

What happens if you say “Yes”? Sometimes we just want to avoid trouble and think that saying NO to everything will make things easier. That’s not the case and in fact, it can even cause more problems, delays and even fines. Be truthful on your Customs Declaration form and all will be good. Worst case scenario they’ll confiscate your banana but we promise you can buy a new one once you’re out of the airport. Yes to 11 (a), (b) or (c) Your customs officer will refer you to an agricultural specialist who will ask you additional questions and might ask to inspect your food items. In many cases, you’ll be allowed to take your food with you. This often depends on where you got the food and how it’s been processed. Fruits, vegetables and raw meats are usually confiscated. You can research ahead of time at canibringit.com which is a U.S. Government run site. Yes to 11 (d) and/or no. 12: An agricultural specialist will ask to inspect the soil or clothes, shoes or luggage that has been in contact with livestock or farm soil to determine if they contain any dangerous organisms. If they find potentially dangerous substances they will disinfect your items before allowing you to bring them in. For bringing soil into the US, you need a permit. Yes to no. 13 or 14: If you are carrying currency worth over $10,000 you will simply be given a special form to fill out for the Treasury Department. For items intended for sale, you should have already filed a “formal entry” before embarking on your journey. You could do so “on the spot” but these matters are subject to many rules and regulations and can be complicated.

Français

Deutsch

Le formulaire de déclaration en douane américaine

Die US-amerikanische Zollerklärung

Que se passe-t-il si vous répondez « OUI » ?

Was passiert, wenn Sie JA sagen?

Certaines personnes semblent penser que répondre « non » à toutes les réponses leur évitera des ennuis. Ce n’est pas le cas et en fait, cela peut même vous causer plus de problèmes, des retards et des amendes. Dites la vérité sur votre formulaire de déclaration en douane et tout ira bien. Dans le pire des cas, ils confisqueront votre banane mais promis, vous pourrez en acheter une nouvelle à votre arrivée à l’aéroport.

Einige Leute nehmen an, dass sie keinerlei Ärger bekommen, wenn sie überall NEIN sagen. Das ist nicht so. Tatsächlich kann dies sogar mehr Probleme, Verzögerungen und sogar Geldbußen verursachen. Seien Sie bei Ihrer Zollerklärung ehrlich, und alles wird gut. Im schlimmsten Fall konfisziert man Ihre Banane, aber wir versprechen Ihnen, dass Sie sich eine neue kaufen können, sobald Sie den Flughafen verlassen haben.

Oui aux questions 11 (a), (b) ou (c) Votre agent douanier vous dirigera vers un spécialiste agricole qui vous posera des questions supplémentaires et qui pourra inspecter vos fruits. Dans de nombreux cas, vous sera autorisé à garder votre nourriture. Cela dépend souvent de la provenance la nourriture et de la façon dont elle a été transformée. Les fruits, les légumes et la viande crue sont généralement confisqués. Vous pouvez faire des recherches avant de partir sur le site canibright.com qui est un site du gouvernement américain. Oui aux questions 11 (d) et/ou 12 : Un spécialiste agricole inspectera la terre ou les vêtements, les chaussures ou les bagages qui ont été en contact avec du bétail ou le sol d’une ferme pour déterminer la présence d’organismes dangereux. S’il trouve des substances potentiellement dangereuses, il désinfectera vos objets avant de vous laisser les garder. Pour importer de la terre aux États-Unis, il vous faut un permis. Oui aux questions 13 ou 14 : Si vous transportez des devises d’une valeur supérieure à 10 000 $, vous devrez simplement remplir un formulaire spécial pour le ministère des finances. Pour les objets destinés à être vendus, vous devriez déjà avoir rempli un « formulaire d’entrée officielle » avant de prendre votre vol. Vous pouvez faire cela sur place mais ce genre de chose est soumis à de nombreuses règles et règlementations et peut être compliqué.

WOW Power to the people

Ja zu 11 (a), (b) oder (c) Ihr Zollbeamter wird Sie an einen Spezialisten für landwirtschaftliche Produkte weiterverweisen, der Ihnen zusätzliche Fragen stellen wird und evtl. darum bittet, Ihre Lebensmittel inspizieren zu dürfen. In vielen Fällen wird man Ihnen erlauben, Ihr Essen mitzunehmen. Oft hängt es davon ab, wo Sie die Lebensmittel erworben haben und wie sie verarbeitet wurden. Obst, Gemüse und rohes Fleisch werden in der Regel beschlagnahmt. Sie können vor Abflug auf der Website der US-Regierung canibringit.com nachlesen, was erlaubt ist. Ja bei 11 (d) und/oder Nr. 12: Ein Spezialist für landwirtschaftliche Produkte wird Sie darum bitten, die Erde oder die Kleidung, Schuhe oder das Gepäck inspizieren zu dürfen, welche(s) in Kontakt mit Tieren oder landwirtschaftlichem Boden war, um zu bestimmen, ob diese gefährliche Organismen enthalten. Wenn er potenziell gefährliche Stoffe findet, werden Ihre Gegenstände desinfiziert, bevor Sie die Erlaubnis erhalten, diese einzuführen. Für das Einführen von Erde in die USA benötigen Sie eine Genehmigung. Ja bei Nr. 13 oder 14: Wenn Sie Bargeld im Wert von mehr als $10.000 mit sich führen, erhalten Sie einfach ein besonderes Formular, das Sie für das US Finanzministerium ausfüllen müssen. Für Gegenstände, die für den Verkauf vorgesehen sind, sollten Sie bereits vor Ihrer Abreise eine „formelle Einfuhrgenehmigung“ einholen. Sie tun könnten dies auch „vor Ort“ erledigen, aber diese Vorgänge unterliegen vielen Regeln und können sehr kompliziert sein.

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Issue one 83

Sweet Canada

The sugar shacks of Montreal (sugar coma included) When winter’s bone-chilling temperatures begin to ebb, the sap of maple trees start to flow and Canadians are thrilled that spring is on its way. With spring comes sugar shacks and delicious, fun maple syrup festivals with sugar tastings and other activities—everyone is celebrating the huge impact the maple sugar industry has on the country. by Judy Colbert Photos: Courtesy of respective venues

he Quebec Federation of Maple Syrup Producers claim 72 percent of the world’s maple syrup is produced in Quebec. That’s more than 12 million gallons a year. Residents of the province also consume more maple products per capita than anywhere else in the world. The syrup can cost as little as $7 a pint to more than $40 a half-gallon, or about $1,500 (CAN) a barrel. THE LUMBERJACK PARTY If you have just a few minutes and maybe only a passing interest in all things syrupy, you can experience a basic hot, tasty maple taffy on fresh snow at various maple taffy stands near some metro station by early-to mid-March usually through mid-April. For a more extensive experience, visit one of the 200 or so “cabane a sucre” or sugar shacks through the province of Quebec as Canadians rejoice the return of spring. While most of the festivities are located outside Montréal, there’s one nearby at the Promenade Wellington in the Verdun section of town. The ninth annual Cabane Panache Et Bois Rond is a free urban sugar shack and lumberjack party scheduled for the evenings of March 21 through 24, 2019. It’s four nights of maple syrup and wood cabin glory with square dancing, log-throwing, ax-throwing contests, woodcutting, two-man saw demonstrations, festive concerts, traditional foods (maple taffy, sugar pie, pancakes with syrup, maple cocktails, etc.), and 100,000+ of your newest best friends. Twenty-one local restaurants will revisit the sugar shack’s traditional menu and will have their own after-festivities fun. www.promenadewellington.com.

SUGARING OFF IN MONTRÉAL The Morgan Arboretum at McGill University has one of the few maple groves left on the island of Montréal. The 245-hectare forest reserve has the Cabane A Sucre Montréal where they offer a two-hour guided sleigh ride tour with a stop at a

WOW Power to the people

sugar shack. See how maple syrup used to be made by being boiled over a wood fire. Taffy (made with the syrup) on snow, German sausages, hot dogs, and beverages are ready for purchase. Jim Fyles, director of the arboretum says, “Weather permitting, the sugaring off days are scheduled to be open Sunday, March 17, 24 (1 to 5 p.m.), and perhaps 31. Take some time to enjoy tobogganing, X-country skiing, and strolling in the late-winter woods, with buckets hanging off the trees and steam rising from the sugar shack. It’s a lovely way to help us all emerge from a long winter.”

If you have just a few minutes and maybe only a passing interest in all things syrupy, you can experience a basic hot, tasty maple taffy on fresh snow at various maple taffy stands near some metro station by early-to mid-March usually through mid-April.

www.morganarboretum.org – Reservations are required.

YEAR-ROUND SUGAR HIGH Pierre Faucher (he’s the one with the magnificent big white beard) and his son Stefan (smaller, darker beard) produce about 400 gallons of syrup a year. Their Sucrerie de la Montagne, about an hour’s drive from Montréal, has been drawing crowds since 1978. While most sugar shacks are seasonal, this one is open all year round, although the sugaring off festivities are in February, March, and April. That’s when you can ride in a horse-drawn sleigh or wagon, have an all-you-caneat sugaring-off feast, listen to live music, have a maple-taffy-on-snow tasting, and visit the general store. Here at the official “Site du Patrimoine Quebecois” (Quebec Heritage Site), the sugar shack is in the middle of a 120-acre forest of century-old maple trees atop Mont Rigaud, west of Montreal. They also have a maple-infused cologne. There’s dining on Thursday, Friday, and Saturday evening by reservation, and they offer overnight accommodations in a traditional log cabin. www.sucreriedelamontagne.com

MAPLE FINE DINING Martin Picard, noted Montréal chef-owner of Au Pied de Cochon, opens a La Cabane à Sucre Au Pied de Cochon in St-Benoit-de-Mirabel, about 45 minutes from Montréal, in mid-February. It features a “return to classics” that centers on traditional Québécois cuisine and an elaborate feast around maple sugar products. Picard is known for his signature multi-pound meals with a large amount of foie gras and culinary innovations. aupieddecochon.ca/en/info/information/sugarseason – Reservations required.

The Quebec Federation of Maple Syrup Producers claim 72 percent of the world’s maple syrup is produced in Quebec. That’s more than 12 million gallons a year. Residents of the province also consume more maple products per capita than anywhere else in the world. The syrup can cost as little as $7 a pint to more than $40 a half-gallon, or about $1,500 (CAN) a barrel.

focus on activities for children. You can see the boiler room, a general store, artisans from Quebec, and a mini farm. You can ride an antique car or a mechanical bull or both. And, for children, there are pony rides, a pirate ship, bumper cars, a carriage ride, train ride, inflatable structures, and a carousel. Make time for live entertainment and a dance floor. chaletdeserables.com/en/cabane-a-sucre.

HISTORY AND SYRUP SWEET FAMILY FUN Le Chalet des Érables, now operated by the sixth generation of the same family, is located 25 miles northwest of Montréal in the Laurentian region. The sugar shack offers a traditional menu, and a variety of activities (some free, others (rides) for a fee), with a major

L’Hermine Cabane à Sucre is a Quebec historical site about an hour from Montreal and is open all year. Started in 1963, it has expanded from a dairy farm to today’s re-

ception area, restaurant (Thursday through Sunday), and maple syrup production facility. The cozy bistro-bar eatery menu offers such mouth-watering fare as maple-baked beans, crispy fried pork rinds, vegetarian pizza, baby ribs, pea soup, and maple syrup tart. During the sugaring-off time, there are horse-drawn sleigh rides on weekends and traditional meals. During the off-season, there are educational tours, weddings, family reunions, and other special events. The shop sells maple products, including maple-leaf-shaped glass bottles of syrup, maple candy, cinnamon syrup, maple syrup with lavender, and nuts and cranberries coated with maple syrup. hermine.ca

WOW air offers cheap flights to Montréal and Toronto in Canada every day of the week, all year round. Stay sweet in Canada and gorge on the goodness of the maple trees. We’ll fly you there!

Issue one 85

Move around town

Doing

Detroit If you’re thinking of Doing Detroit AKA The D; the least expensive way to start your Motor City adventure is by taking the Smart Fast bus from the airport to downtown. The bus costs $2 and takes about 1-1/4 hours. Upon arrival, you can take a D Dot Bus or jump on the People Mover to get around. Detroit is a pretty compact city and can be easily walked or cycled. by Caron R. Luteran Photos: iStockphoto.com and courtesy of Motown

ost of Detroit’s cultural venues are downtown, such as the Detroit Institute of Arts and MOCAD. A lot of museums are closed on Monday so check before visiting. Detroit offers some good freebies to look at or up in awe of while oohing and aahing such as the Guardian building, Hart Plaza, Detroit Historical Museum, Pewabic Pottery and the Detroit Public Library. If music is your thing, take the Dexter bus over to Motown AKA Hitsville USA where Marvin Gaye, The Temptations and many others recorded their legendary Motown sounds. COFFEE AND A BET

Corktown is an up and coming section next to the downtown area on Michigan Avenue, known for its unique shops, restaurants, coffee joints and bars. Astro Coffee is a cool place with no Wi-Fi but great coffee and conversation. The Detroit Institute of Bagels is a light airy space where you can chill out, get some work done while enjoying one of many flavored bagels like Everything or Pretzel Jalapeño. A few streets from there is Lucky Detroit-Coffee & Espresso, a cozy coffee shop on top of a modern barbershop. They have tons of little macarons with more unique flavors than I’ve ever seen in Paris such as Lavender, Pop Rox and Cookie Dough. To add some risk and excitement to your stay are Detroit’s three casinos: MGM Grand, Greektown Casino and Motor City. Unlike Las Vegas or Atlantic City, where casinos are all in a heap, in Detroit, they are spread out. The MGM Grand is close to the Rosa Parks Transit Center in Corktown. It has tons of slot machines to try your luck on, starting from a penny. If you win, you can spend your prize money on a steak at Wolfgang Puck. Otherwise, the food court offers good selection of tasty food outposts. If you’re a sports fanatic you can watch the Lions play football, the Pistons play basketball, the Tigers play baseball and the Red Wings play hockey. FOODIE DETROIT Greektown offers much more than just the casino as there are Greek restaurants and a few tavernas where you can enjoy traditional Greek cuisine such as gyros, grape leaves and lamb chops. A visit to the Astoria Pastry Shop on Monroe Street will expose you to about 100 different sweets/pastries ranging from sweet and sticky Greek baklava in flavors such as pistachio, chocolate

WOW Power to the people

If music is your thing, take the Dexter bus over to Motown AKA Hitsville USA where Marvin Gaye, The Temptations and many others recorded their legendary Motown sounds.

or plain/traditional to cookies, cinnamon buns, cakes, muffins, macarons and ice cream. Another foodie-centric area in the D is the Eastern Market, a large outdoor farmers market on Russell Street between Mack and Gratiot Avenues. Mexicantown also offers all types of Mexican cuisine on Vernor Hwy and Bagley Ave. INNOVATIVE DETROIT

If you’re a sports fanatic you can watch the Lions play football, the Pistons play basketball, the Tigers play baseball and the Red Wings play hockey.

A little bit outside of the D in nearby Dearborn is the must-see Henry Ford Museum of American Innovation and the Rouge Plant Factory Tour. The blue and white Ford logo present on cars and trucks zipping by is a big part of Detroit (Michigan) life and the global auto market so when in Detroit “Do Ford.” A Smart Fast bus will get you there from downtown in about 30 minutes with a quick change at the Dearborn Transit Center. Allow about two hours for the plant tour and two to three hours for the museum. At the factory plant, you can see Ford F150 trucks assembled on both a manual and precision automated assembly line—an intriguing experience! If you only have enough time to see one of them, the plant factory tour is a once in a lifetime sneak peek of a major corporation’s approach to modern mass production. The museum focuses on the many ways that transportation affected our lives. Also, be sure to visit the Ford Piquette Avenue Plant in Detroit to learn about the Model T or Tin Lizzie which kind of started it all. Check out visitdetroit.com for all Detroit can offer you.

Greektown offers much more than just the casino as there are Greek restaurants and a few tavernas where you can enjoy traditional Greek cuisine such as gyros, grape leaves and lamb chops.

WOW air offers cheap flights to Detroit from all over Europe four times a week. Find your flight at wowair.com No matter how you Do Detroit you’re in for a good time and WOW air can get you there.

Issue one 87

Picture perfect in New York

WOW Power to the people

The most Instagrammable places on the Lower East Side The Lower East Side is known as the gritty stomping ground of young people stumbling out of bars, but it’s much more than that. As multi-millionaire businesswoman Ursula Burns once said: “I’m a black lady from the Lower East Side of New York. Not a lot intimidates me.” by Nadja Sayej Photos: Courtesy of NYC go and Citizen M Hotel

he’s not alone, as famed film maker Martin Scorsese is also from the neighborhood, so is famed boxer Rocky Graziano and comedy actor Luis Guzman (“I think the Lower East Side inspires me,” he once said). Rapper A$AP Rocky spent many years here. The neighborhood, facing the Williamsburg Bridge, has a village-like personality that is home to traditional delis, quirky alleyways, a street art museum and a jungle of bars, indie restaurants and cosmopolitan nightlife. For those who like to photograph their way through their holidays, check out these iconic hotspots, which are the most Instagrammable places on the Lower East Side (don’t forget to hashtag #lowereastside). THE NEW MUSEUM This iconic silver museum is hard to miss in the Bowery. The multi-floor museum features contemporary art, from video art to sculptures and rotating exhibits from the world’s hottest art stars. On weekends, their Sky Room is open to the public offering stunning views of Lower Manhattan. Take the elevator to the museum’s top floor patio, which overlooks the stunning city (especially at sunset).

so is the sumptuous menu. This traditional hotspot is famous on the silver screen, as Meg Ryan shot her legendary scene here for “When Harry Met Sally.” Order up a pastrami sandwich with a matzo ball to get a real taste of the city. www.katzsdelicatessen.com

FREEMAN ALLEY The Freeman Alley in the Lower East Side is a dead-end alley between Bowery, Rivington Street and Chrystie Street. Named after a restaurant that used to be down the street, it’s filled with graffiti, murals on garages and Instagrammers getting the perfect shot in the small laneway. Don’t miss the mural by Shepard Fairey. At the end of the alley, you’ll find a blue door that leads to Freeman’s restaurant, a rustic and classic American tavern. www.freemansrestaurant.com

WILLIAMSBURG BRIDGE This 1,600-foot-long steel suspension bridge that connects Lower Manhattan with Brooklyn across the East River is a must-trek-to hotspot for the perfect Instagram photo. It’s also where you can bike, walk, drive or take the subway across. Taking a picture in the middle of the bridge offers a great view of both boroughs. Better yet: Capture the bridge from between two buildings on Delancey Street, close to the Delancey metro station for an iconic New York photo.

newmuseum.org

KATZ DELI Since 1888, this deli has been serving mile-high sandwiches. The look is old fashioned, and Issue one 89

Picture perfect in New York

MUSEUM OF STREET ART

TENEMENT MUSEUM

This museum was founded by local street artists who now have a permanent space for their spray-painted masterpieces. The 20-floor stairwell museum at the back of the citizenM Hotel offers a different painting on each floor. Check out a mural of Ru Paul, the Drag Race TV host, as well as a 5000-square-foot mural by local artist Meres One.

Want to see what New York once looked like? Walk back into the neighborhoodâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s past at this museum which pays homage to the immigrants who carved out their lives in the Lower East Side from the 19th century onward. Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t expect your usual infographics; this is a real experience. The museum has recreated six authentic apartments based on the belongings of real families who lived across two buildings. Roughly 15,000 working-class immigrants from 20 countries once lived among (or nearby) these walls and this homey museum pays homage to them all. www.tenement.org

www.citizenm.com/mosa

NURSE BETTIE Dita Von Teese fans will not be disappointed at this bar. Named after legendary pinup model Bettie Page, this burlesque-themed bar is covered in 1950s pinup photographs, while couches are lined up along the walls. Try the bubble gum martini or a classic Manhattan. This hotspot has the longest running, free weekly burlesque shows every Thursday and Friday at 10 p.m. This is the ultimate place to catch an up and coming local dancer who steps onto their iconic stage every week. The costumes are from another era, filled with rhinestones, gems and sparkles. nursebettie.com

PIZZA BEACH This California-inspired seasonal pizza bar pairs up Italian grub with beachside cocktails. They offer quinoa salads alongside Baja shrimp tacos and a touch of your traditional New York pizza joint. Bright and colorful beachy design marks this busy Lower East Side restaurant, having seafoam green stools, year-round Christmas lights and a blue-hued bar. The special here is pizza, so order up a classic Margherita or feta and spinach sprinkled oven-cooked pizza while snapping away at your table (yes, you can be a food Instagrammer at this place). www.pizzabeach.com

WOW Power to the people

Recommended stay: citizenM New York Bowery Hotel The newly-opened Bowery Hotel is in the thick of the most charming corner of the Lower East Side. The hotel offers stunning views of the city skyline, and this newly-renovated building boasts 300 rooms, a chic lobby restaurant ideal for co-working and a top-floor cocktail bar called cloudM, which makes the perfect midnight photograph. www.citizenm.com/bowery WOW air offers cheap flights to New York from all over Europe every day of the week, all year round. Travel photos always get the most likes! Pump up your Instagame with some awesome Manhattan selfies. WOW air will get you there.

Completing the Golden Circle

Geothermal baths - Natural steam baths Local kitchen - Geothermal bakery Summer Winter

Get 15% discount if you book online using the code: WOW2019 Bookable on www.fontana.is

Open daily 10:00 - 23:00 11:00 - 22:00

Issue one 91

Indulge in Italy

WOW Power to the people

10 Italian dishes you must try If you’ve scored some cheap flights to Italy don’t limit yourself to Italian pizza and gelato! Here are 10 lesser-known dishes you need to have on your next trip to Italy. by Cindy-Lou Dale

BIGOLI IN VENICE Spaghetti will become a carb of the past, once you’ve sampled bigoli, the signature pasta of the Veneto region. Unlike smooth, thin spaghetti, bigoli noodles are thick, coarse and tubular (each has a hole in the middle, like bucatini) and are traditionally handmade from buckwheat flour and duck eggs. Bigoli, served, generally, with a simple red wine sauce that clings to the thick, rough noodles is then garnished with parsley and a sprinkle of Parmesan. RIBOLLITA IN FLORENCE Ribollita is a dish invented by servants who would collect their master’s unfinished bread and vegetables and boil it up to create ribollita soup. Considered peasant food, you’d never guess by tasting it! Despite its humble beginnings, ribollita is proudly considered one of Tuscany’s most important (and delicious) dishes. RISI E BISI IN MOGLIANO Risi e bisi, or “rice and peas,” may not sound like Italy’s most refined dish, but it’s remarkably tasty. As the name implies, it consists only of rice and peas, cooked with stock and seasonings much like a traditional risotto, except

without the constant stirring so to achieve a slightly soupier texture. The result is a clean, exquisitely balanced dish which, in typical Venetian fashion, allows its main ingredients to shine. TORTELLINI EN BRODO IN ROME For many families in northern Italy, specifically EmiliaRomagna, tortellini en brodo is a kitchen staple, particularly during the holidays. Unlike regular tortellini, served in a heavy cream sauce, this is like a homemade chicken broth (think the Italian version of wonton soup), except it’s filled with veal and Parmigiano Reggiano cheese and is topped off with a sprinkling of grated Parmesan. You’ll never want to eat tortellini any other way. CANEDERLI IN MONCLASSICO Like Tuscany’s ribollita, the canederli from Italy’s TrentinoAlto Adige region is made using leftover bread; this time, it’s mixed with eggs and milk to create a golf ball-sized dumpling—like the German knödel. For extra flavor speck (smoked, raw ham typical of northeast Italy), cheese, and spices are added before the canederli is boiled in a beef or chicken broth. You can eat it with melted butter or in a shallow bowl of broth—comfort food like no other.

Issue one 93

Indulge in Italy

OSSO BUCO ALLA MILANESE IN MILAN

TORRONE IN MODICA

If there’s one meat dish you must try in Italy, let it be osso bucco and not chicken parmigiana (which, if truth be told, isn’t Italian). You can’t go wrong with veal shanks braised slowly in white wine, served with a tangy, garlicky gremolata. There are numerous versions of this dish, so be sure to order the original Milanese—and don’t forget to scoop out the rich, buttery marrow from inside the veal bones.

The origins of torrone are somewhat blurry—some foodies say it originates from Lombardy, others insist it’s Sicilian. But this is irrelevant. What does matter is the taste. It’s a creamy, sticky, nougat-like candy made with honey, egg whites, toasted nuts, and citrus zest, sold in thick slabs at cafes and sweet shops across Italy. Go for the “original,” but one modern variant gets the thumbs up as it comes dipped in chocolate!

CACCIUCCO IN LIVORNO

Pizza, spaghetti, and gelato—they’re all fabulous, but that’s just three of Italy’s gastronomic contributions to the world. With myriads of regional dishes and a remarkable parade of street food, don’t deny yourself Italy’s other culinary pleasures.

Not a fish person? Cacciucco will change that. The spicy, zesty seafood stew is native to Livorno, historically made by fishmongers using the day’s unsold catch—which might include shellfish, monkfish, even squid and octopus. The fish is cooked in a rich tomato and chili-based broth flavored with garlic and sage then served with crusty bread—necessary for scooping up the remaining broth in your bowl. It’s so good that Italian immigrants in San Francisco created an Italian-American version, cioppino, using Pacific Ocean seafood and with the addition of wine. FOCACCIA DI RECCO IN GENOA This dish is one of the top reasons you’ll love Liguria, right up there with Portofino and the Cinque Terre. It hails from the Genovese town of Recco and is one of the region’s yummiest yet effortless specialties: it’s a thin sheet of baked focaccia (flat olive-oil bread) with a creamy layer of Stracchino cheese in the center. Think grilled cheese, but better. BOTTARGA IN TAORMINA Widely known as the caviar of the south, it’s not so much a dish as it is an ingredient: Bottarga is salted, cured mullet roe—delicacy of both Sardinia and Sicily. Used in many regional southern dishes because of its rich, briny, salty flavor, it’s grated over linguine, shaved atop bitter greens, or sliced with buttered bread or crostini.

WOW Power to the people

WOW air offers cheap flights to Milan, Italy during the spring and summer season, from the beginning of April until mid-October. Find your flight from Canada or the US to Italy at wowair.com. Italy has great food, but it’s most famous contributions to the culinary world are not the primary reason you should visit, it’s all those other dishes. Just take your pick. WOW air will get you there.

A WARM WELCOME Fur store and workshop Feldur is a family run fur brand that specializes in design and production of high quality fur products. The shop and workshop is located in the heart of ReykjavĂk where you will find a wide collection of fur products. Inside you can also see the furrier at work, altering and repairing old fur coats and making new products.

Issue one 95 Store and Workshop | Snorrabraut 56, 105 ReykjavĂk | Collection and online shop www.feldur.is

Frankfurt’s famous neighbor

A Mosel’s gem Straddling both banks of the Mosel River is Traben-Trarbach, an architectural treasure set in the ancient landscape of Germany’s Mosel Valley—historically one of Europe’s largest wine trading districts. by Cindy-Lou Dale

WOW Power to the people

ust over an hour from Frankfurt, driving through rolling pastures and green meadows, heading west, towards the much-acclaimed Mosel Valley, are sights that would quicken the pulse of any wine lover—vistas of amber vineyards interspersed with snug villages overlooking the shifting reflection of the Mosel River. Along the way are centuries old castles, forts, and churches with tall steeples and always a tolling church bell. THE HEART OF RIESLING COUNTRY Here the soil is soft and mossy with a permanent lick of ground-mist hanging above it; a place where people perform the art of creating food in the fields. In one such hamlet, I stop for a glass of Riesling which, my kindly hostess, Anna, claims, is the noblest of all grapes. She explains that the Mosel is the heart of Riesling country with near vertical Amphitheater-like slopes, swathed in vines, which cling to every centimeter of the hillside. Anna holds up her glass to the azure blue sky, criti cally examining its color. She speaks of this wine’s heritage going back to medieval times of the Mosel, claiming a history predating Charlemagne. She takes a long slow drink from her frosted glass and sighs, satisfied with her selection.

We sat like this for a while, contemplating the spectacular view and watching an old man, a young boy and a dog, shepherd a flock of sheep down a steep mountain road, through the village, to a field beyond. A few of the sheep wore little bells about their necks, and the tinkling of these, along with their bleating and the sounds of their trotting, momentarily blends with the pealing of the 10 am church bells. I felt certain that this was where my spirit would meet my soul. A RIVER RUNS THROUGH IT I continue onto the baroque, riverside town of Traben-Trarbach, festooned with ivy-clad terraces and oozing class and charm. Initially, Traben and Trarbach, which span the Mosel, came together at the turn of the 19th century to form Europe’s second largest wine trading district, after Bordeaux. For this purpose, a design competition was held to find an architect to build a bridge connecting Traben and Trarbach. It was won by renowned architect Professor Bruno Möhring, who went on to create the town’s grand art-nouveau style buildings, resulting in no lack of bow windows, domed towers, gables or stained glass. Issue one 97

Frankfurtâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s famous neighbor

WOW Power to the people

Traben-Trarbach’s taverns, restaurants and bistros are a rendezvous for local culinary pleasures, including Weincräwes (pork ribs with sauerkraut and bacon), Mosel Wingertspoal (grilled neck-end of pork, marinated in spices), Schoales (potato and meat casserole) and of course, river fish like trout and pike. From sidewalk cafes and gourmet fine dining experiences to rustic wine growers’ meals, customarily served with a glass of Riesling, each has a different feel, and a different menu—but all are of the highest standard. WINE AND FUN Festivals are an significant part of the Mosel experience, and as one would expect, most focus on the regions produce and see wine growers opening their cellar doors, inviting wine connoisseurs to sample their tangy Rieslings and delicious foods. Some winegrowers offer guided walks through their hillside vineyards followed by a tasting—which is a great way to find your favorite local label.

In the second weekend of July, the Mosel Wine Festival presents culinary and cultural specialties from all over Europe under the theme of Europe a la carte. On July’s last weekend, the Guild of Wine Hauliers hold their traditional St. James’s Day celebrations and crown the town’s new wine queen. The happy atmosphere continues until the middle of September then resumes at the wine harvest festival in early October. GETTING YOUR MOSEL ON There are many ways to discover and experience the region—a half-day riverboat cruise, cross-country Nordic walking or mountain biking the Velto route, as well as themed trails and footpaths. Should you be partial to water, the Mosel offers boating, canoeing, sailing, windsurfing and water-skiing. For something more adventurous take to the sky in a glider or light aircraft from the Mont-Royal airfield. For culture buffs, there are three magnificent castles in a direct one-hour drive from Traben-Trarbach. The first being Schloss Grevenberg which dates to around the 1350s. While there’s not much left of the castle—it’s merely a ruin—in a way, that makes it more fun. There is nothing like a ruined castle for the fertile imagination, so pack a picnic and enjoy the views. Some 330 ft above the Mosel, about 40-minutes further, you‘ll find Schloss Cochem, an 11th-century gothic castle that looks like a romantic fairy-tale citadel is set on a hilltop. Twenty minutes later there’s Schloss Eltz which has been standing there adding nobility and grandeur to the landscape for near on 900 years.

A few of the sheep wore little bells about their necks, and the tinkling of these, along with their bleating and the sounds of their trotting, momentarily blends with the pealing of the 10 am church bells. I felt certain that this was where my spirit would meet my soul.

Secure an English-speaking guide via the local tourism office to arrange for a two-hour walking tour through Traben-Trarbach’s historic town center and visit the Middle Mosel Museum, the Icon Center and the toy museum. Mysteries lurk behind ancient doorways and concealed alleyways where designer stores and art galleries are secreted away. Surprises are at every turn, like the cellars of the ancient village church which act as a maturing room for locally harvested grapes after picking. And of course, there are always locals to add further color to the day.

Must stay: Weingut Trossen is a working vineyard with a spacious guesthouse on the steep slopes overlooking the town www.winzermeister-trossen.de. For a special occasion, there’s the luxury Hotel Bellevue, with its panoramic view across the Mosel. www.bellevue-hotel.de.

While unwinding on Hotel Bellevue’s patio, watching the swans silently glide by on the gently flowing Mosel, take a moment to reflect on the times when the town was frequented by early 20th-century gentries like Baron von Thyssen, Count von Anhalt and Baron von Richthofen (the Red Baron). Nothing much has changed.

Traben-Trarbach tourist office www.traben-trarbach.de

Must do river cruise: Every half hour a white fleet river cruise boat departs/docks on a 2-hour cruise. www.mosel-schiffstouristik.de Must eat: The Golden Traube is a small family run restaurant (and hotel) serving traditional cuisine and a selection of superb local wines. www.goldenetraube-hotel.de

WOW air offers cheap flights to Frankfurt, Germany, every day of the week, all year round. Find your flight from the US or Canada at wowair.com. The Mosel Valley is a pilgrimage for any lover of good wine, authentic food and stunning natural views. WOW air will get you to Frankfurt, and from there it’s just a short drive to the paradise that is the Mosel Valley.

Issue one 99

Copenhagen’s coolest natural wine spots Ever wondered where to go for drinks and dinner in Copenhagen if craft beer and open-faced sandwiches aren’t your things? Welcome to the city’s dazzling natural wine scene. by Alexandra Pereira Les Trois Cochons

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WOW Power to the people

Wine and dine in Denmark

uided by our noses, Copenhagen’s readiness to pour visitors under the table any time of year or night, and assisted in part by self-proclaimed “wine pusher” and sommelier Kenn Husted, we introduce you to the city’s blossoming natural wine emporiums. Natural wine, or nature wine, is wine made with minimal chemical and technological intervention and this applies to both the growing of the grapes and the making of the wine. Natural wines are farmed organically and are often also biodinamic as well. However not all organic or biodynamic wines fall under the natural wine concept due to a difference in cellar practices. A CHANGING SCENE Husted is from Copenhagen and has been working in the wine business from a very young age (15), starting the first wine bar in Denmark (Bibendum in 2001). “I have been pushing wines all my life!” he exclaims. Husted owns and runs and owns a mini wine and food empire Copenhagen. Until recently, he didn’t have any natural wines, only organic and biodynamic, but since witnessing a growing demand for well-made natural wines, they are now a part of his wine empire’s reputable portfolio. “My tastes are going more in that direction: clean, nice wines with lower alcohol and less oak.” And why is it such a hit? “They’re new and funky, easy to understand, with fruitiness and easy drinking flavors, not so much alcohol, tannins and oak. As we are all thinking more about sustainability, I believe that many of the conventional producers are going the organic way, and some are taking a step further and going more natural. The good producers will stay and grow; the bad ones will disappear.”

VESTERBRO BISTRO-CHIC: FALERNUM After Props Coffee Shop came Falernum, from the Husted hospitality empire. Close to the city’s central train station is the convenient and delightfully chic French-inspired bistro and wine bar that sits right on the city’s “mini-Paris” Vaernedamsvej. Falernum is slick and pared down regardin design, uncluttered like your average French wine bar but teeming with a cellar and shelves stacked with fantastic grapes, including a wide range of natural wines. Kenn has been advising the bistro on their menus for some time and recommends pairing whites with the menu’s coolly-decadent Gillardeau oysters and a natural red with its even more coveted steak tartar and fries. As the Frenchheavy shelves illustrate, Danish wine doesn’t have a particular reputation in the wine universe, but it’s shifting. “It is

few different things while sitting at the bar between snacks, to the food market you must go. Twinkling with hygge lighting all year round and host to the some of the city’s finest culinary exports (get a taco from Sanchez’s taco truck before your wineathlon), there are copious glasses of natural wine to be tried around these parts.

still too expensive, and not very good,” shares Husted. “We don’t have the right weather conditions yet, but with climate change, we ironically have better possibilities to make decent wines. The UK is doing better, and Denmark is heading in the same direction.” GREEN AND GLORIOUS: HØST

BOUTIQUE SHOP AND SIP: SANITOV S’UPERMARKET

In the city center, celebrate the different harvests of natural wines during a changing seasonal tasting menu and accompanying wine journey at the glittering with indoor trees and magnificently-hospitable Høst (Danish for harvest), part of the city’s COCOFO sustainable consumption enterprise of restaurants and bars. Toast to the greenest city in the world over razor clam broth, baked cod with kohlrabi and blue mussel sauce, birch bark ice cream and fair-trade grapes such as Cuvée Laïs, Macabeo Blend, Horitschon, Blaufrankisch and Moscato d’Asti. SMALL PLATES AND SOMMELIER TASTE: PATE PATE Also, part of the Husted wine family, this place in the meatpacking district is deeply cherished by foodies and winos alike. The mecca of Copenhagen small plates trend and a hub for natural wine, Pate Pate offers a host of Spanish and Moroccan-inspired tapas and two daily hot dishes, usually with meat. Each wine, carefully selected with a story that relates to the changing menu, changes with it, and sometimes it changes on rotation from the supplier. Sample the likes of the Robert Mondavi Napa Pinot Noir from California at one of the company’s wine tasting evenings or take a few bottles to go, under the onsite sommelier’s guidance. HIPSTER SIP: DEN VANDRETTE Right at the tourist hotspot that is Nyhavn, Den Vandrette is one for the cool kids. With a higher tier-priced menu and a slick sound curation, staff are friendly and laid-back but know their stuff, and the natural wine game is off the charts. Compliment their fried sea snails and globe artichoke with Bulles de Comptoir #6 champagne and a bottle of Gewürztraminer Maceration orange wine from Alsace. MARKET WANDER-WONDER: TORVEHALLERNE If you’re after a bit of the Copenhagen hustle and bustle, and fancy trying a

Now hosting daily vegan rainbow salads and Saturday afternoon parties—complete with tech-house DJ, and dogs welcome—the boys behind Plantedrengene have de-camped under the guise of Hala Ma Deli at this über fun and light concept store and art space in the heart of hip Nørrebro. Amongst many other delights—including a mini farmer’s market for you to take veggies home—is the fantastic natural wine selection from Krone Vin and ROSFORTH & ROSFORTH and the most beautiful bicycles from Sanitov you ever saw. Shop and sip till you drop. Each wine, carefully selected with a story that relates to the changing menu, changes with it, and sometimes it changes on rotation from the supplier. Sample the likes of the Robert Mondavi Napa Pinot Noir from California at one of the company’s wine tasting evenings or take a few bottles to go, under the onsite sommelier’s guidance.

BURRATA AND BUBBLES: POMPETTE This new wine bar is deceptively cavernous but never loses the cozy, personal feeling. Staff really know their stuff and also chat warmly with guests inside, and out on the pavement seating during warmer months. Especially exciting is the small but brilliant menu: seek out Pompette’s burrata and have the server give you their recommendations of the week. Always on offer are red, wine or orange wines by the glass with a heavy French contingent if the clue in the name is not enough to suggest so. “A perfect wine-centric night out for me,” divulges Husted, “would be to pass by Pio Vinbar in Bagerstræde, have some pasta at Mangia, go to Christianshavn and continue at Undici, with some more nice wines and food.” Other great, cozy and no-need-to-book-tablesat Nørrebro hotspots for natural wine aplenty are Terroiristen, Sabotøren and Gaarden & Gaden. And what does Husted have planned for 2019 and beyond, as the city’s “wine pusher” du jour? “I’m rethinking my concepts; maybe close a few and look into other areas here in Copenhagen.” With three new spots for next year, Copenhagen’s wine and dine scene is naturally blossoming. Get a sip of the action.

WOW air offers cheap flights to Copenhagen every day of the week all year round. Book your flight at wowair.com. In Copenhagen, they say “skål” instead of “cheers.” A good thing to remember when having a fabulous night out in Denmark’s capital, a glass of natural wine in hand. Skål!

Issue one 101

Top tier sustenance

Brunch at Geist im Glas.

A guide to brunching in Berlin Dip, dive, and gorge on the city’s most delicious and accessible brunches, on offer all hours for the intrepid Berlin explorer. by Alexandra Pereira Photos: Courtesy of respective venues

n a city so known for its all-night partying, it’s worth knowing that you’ll need a lie-in. When you wake ravenous and hungry to explore this historic town that never sleeps, brunch should be the first thing on your to-do list. Whether it’s vegan and nutritious, or bottomless with cocktails and beers as you continue the party, the German capital’s got something delicious and convenient for any breed of bruncher. The world-renowned breakfast and lunch needn’t be a sad fruhstuck at a

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WOW Power to the people

tourist cafe at Alexanderplatz. Follow our insider hacks to make sure your sustenance is top tier and affordable; like everything in Berlin, including your hangover after the best night of your life. Fruhstuck with finesse: HOTEL ODERBERGER Set on a leafy, cobbled street in the gorgeous north-central neighborhood of Prenzlauer Berg, Oderberger is a historic place. Sometimes, its stunning indoor pool with its luxuri-

ous spa, open to both hotel guests and the general public, is covered and used as a dreamlike location for private parties. The columns and decadence continue into the cocktail lounge, and the delicious, vast brunch buffet (freshly baked croissants, hot gourmet dishes, cheeses, cold cuts, cakes and fruit salads) flows with bottomless sparkling wine and fresh juices all morning long. The Kate Moss of brunch: DAS GIFT This place is the rock and roll stumble-into brunching place du jour. Served conveniently from midday on Saturdays and Sundays is a hearty plethora of German-meets-Scottish comforts from porridge to grilled cheese toasties to haggis mac and cheese, to, of course, sausage and eggs. If you’re lucky, they might be serving their mini-famous Naggis

Hachos (that’s nachos with Scottish haggis after too many drinks). Nurture yourself further with one of their tap brews or a lethally strong and tasty Bloody Mary, and keep your table from day to night as the coolest kids of Neukolln fill the space with local DJs and a constant air of cool. Setting the standard for brunches globally: GEIST IM GLAS When whoever invented brunch did so, Gleis im Glas was present. Sprawling yet stylish, nutritious yet filling, colorful and moreish to the max, this is brunch at its finest. Flickering candles and cute, kitschy details surround tiny tables, complimenting your Mexican inspired huevos rancheros (black beans, baked eggs, sour cream, pico de gallo and much more served on a wooden board and pan) or their star dish: pancakes that make waiting till

late morning worth every stomach rumble. (Book ahead or expect to queue on weekends and maybe even Thursdays (Wednesday night’s the new Saturday). Instagram paradise: HOUSE OF SMALL WONDERS For a beautiful restorative experience that isn’t just a nap or a spa, come here. You may recognize its green, leaf-laden spiral staircase from Instagram: it’s one of the most coveted photographic environments in the city. From the same creators of the resplendent Zenkichi in the same neighborhood, Mitte, HOSW picks up on and accentuates with perfect quirk, the simple joys, and pleasures of things done simply all in a light-filled, high ceilinged wonderland. Asian twists on American brunches— that’s everything from an inspired eggs benedict with wasabi hollandaise to soboro don with sweet egg. Pair with umeshu tonic or pink mimosas and don’t forget your final daily kick: a green matcha latte.

Brunch Coctails at Geist im Glas.

It’s laid back and relaxed, with snug armchairs, dark corners and a lovely terrace, and offers oodles of continental and hot breakfast options with any extra additions at a tiny price. You can, of course, on top of your black coffee at Black’s, get champagne, cocktails and a straight up pilsner to wash down your fruhstuck—fuel for the dedicated Berliner.

Stepping back in time in Schoneberg: APRIL

Beautiful interior at House of Small Wonders.

Oh, April. This is old style Berlin glamor at its least debauched: dark, paneled walls, tall glinting stick candles, and the West’s fur and glove-kitted bourgeoisie sipping on coffee, fresh orange juice and the most satisfyingly

The vampire’s choice: SCHWARZES CAFE After all is said and done, your sense of time and space while in Berlin might be slightly askew, and that’s OK because the city and the kitchen here at Schwarzes Cafe have got your back. That’s right, it’s 24 hours of breakfast plates and sandwiches for whenever you surface and feel the need to feed—note, the only time it’s closed is between 3 and 10am on Tuesdays which is apparently when the whole city decides to have a quick siesta. It’s laid back and relaxed, with snug armchairs, dark corners and a lovely terrace, and offers oodles of continental and hot breakfast options with any extra additions at a tiny price. You can, of course, on top of your black coffee at Black’s, get champagne, cocktails and a straight up pilsner to wash down your fruhstuck—fuel for the dedicated Berliner.

WOW air offers cheap flights to Berlin every day of the week, all year round. Find your flight at wowair.com.

LET’S TACO ‘BOUT IT

traditional yet exuberant fruhstuck platters your yearning overly-peckish self could ever want. Outside of the usual ham and chorizo and cheese explosions of plenty, there’s also smoked salmon and apricot jams and freshly baked bread that will keep you here for hours, listening to the gentle chatter of those who wouldn’t be seen dead at the nightclubs—only the cabaret.

Don’t get stuck at home. Get fruhstuck in Berlin!

HY HEALT LOCAL OOD FAST F CHAIN

Mexican food that is a true fiesta for your taste buds! We are at eight locations in the Reykjavik area and one in Akureyri: The N1 service stations at Hringbraut and Bíldshöfði. The shopping malls Kringlan and Smáralind and Akureyri center among other places.

Issue one 103

Flavors of India in London

Brick Lane’s best curry houses In England, “going for an Indian” has become an essential Friday night dinner tradition, and in London, Brick Lane—the curry hub of the capital—is the only place for it. The curries on Brick Lane, which have more than 50 restaurants on just one street, are truly authentic. In fact, the area is often referred to as Banglatown because of its Bangladeshi eateries. Cindy-Lou Dale

picy popadoms, accompanied with onion-mango chutney and tamarind-lime pickle, is the time-honored way to start a curry meal at Nazrul (130 Brick Lane), the oldest Bangladeshi curry house on Brick Lane which opened in 1971 to primarily serve the local 50,000-strong Bangladeshi community. Nazrul’s is owned by four brothers who entertained Prince Charles on one of his visits to the area. Chicken Tikka Masala is the UK’s national dish—We kid you not! UK’S FIRST BANGLADESHI SUPERMARKET Think exotic spice then step into the UK’s first Bangladeshi supermarket at Taj Store (112 Brick Lane). Along with many exotic vegetables and unfamiliar river fish, it has fresh supplies flown in daily from Bangladesh. Abdul is the oldest Bangladeshi green-grocer in the UK and has commanded this spot since 1936. Bamboo stools stacked on the top-most shelves are handmade by Bangladeshi prisoners. Curry houses run the full length of Brick Lane but it takes a trained Bengali eye to spot the good ones.

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SAVORY FARE The deep-fried snacking goodness of Bengali “telebhaja” caught my eye at Arzu (55 Brick Lane). Arzu started as a sweet shop but now focuses on savory fare. The variety of tempting morsels are immense; deep-fried takeaway snacks like spring rolls and pakoras fritters, and their dangerously moreish dhokla (fermented batter derived from rice and split chickpeas). They make awesome mishti doi (sweet yogurt set in a mud pot) and dahi bhallas (lentil dumplings in a yogurt sauce). Mr. Patel’s homemade vegetarian samosas are simply the best—they’re rounder and fatter than their Indian cousin’s, with a crisp pastry encasing a spiced potato filling. INDIAN? YOU MEAN BANGLADESHI! We all have our bucket list, and the best things to tick off that list are ultimately the ones that may bring you closer to that bucket, which is what I did when walking into Gram Bangla (68 Brick Lane). It is a little-known fact that most of the food we call “Indian” in London is actually Bangladeshi. Forget chicken Tikka Masala, Prawn Bhuna and Lamb Saag—these are not what most Bengalis eat at home where river fish is the order of the day. Here it’s uniquely spiced fresh-water fish curries or dry fish bhuna, the kind of food only people with a Bangladeshi heritage would recognize. This tiny family-run Bangladeshi café doesn’t do candlelight or table linen. It’s basic, with a little traditional décor; there’s no menu to speak of. You walk up to the canteen-style counter and have a look what’s on offer. Once you’ve placed your order, step to the back, wash your hands, then proceed to eat as the Bengali’s do—with your hands (I’ve been told there are a few cutlery pieces, somewhere). The tastes are not modified for the Western palette as it’s authentic Bangladeshi home-style cuisine. Abdul Shadid explains that his love of traditional Bangladeshi home cooking led to his opening the Gram Bangla in 1999. “I couldn’t have been the only Bengali longing for his mother’s cooking and saw a gap in the market place. Look here,” he waived at his eatery, swarming with locals and a few Bengali out-of-towners, “today we are all thinking of our mother’s food.”

This turned his humble eatery into London’s most popular Pakistani curry house, serving traditional Punjabi curries like their Karaki King Prawn that need to be soaked up with their famed naan bread. For dessert, head to Rajmahal Sweets (57 Brick Lane) which will easily become your favorite shop in London as it’s a much loved and well-frequented Bengali sweet shop whose long counter displays a huge variety of mouth-watering and colorful delicacies. It’s the place to go for extravagant desserts like jalebi (fried doughnuts), ball-shaped sweets like Besan laddu, milk cake, dense milk-based sweet confectionaries like chocolate barfi and coconut barfi, and festive chickpea laddus. You’ll be pleased to hear this is a portable dessert shop, Mohammad Islam is mindful of his wares when boxing up biscuits, cakes and marzipan-based sweets. WHO KNEW FOOD HAS SO MUCH TO SAY? Taste the food that shapes Brick Lane, and you’ll learn the stories of the people behind the fare. In “Banglatown” the street signs are in both Bengali and English, and Banglatown’s curries speak of its residents, immigration, wars, social issues and power struggles. The cultural make-up over the centuries has been rich and diverse, communities from around the world enriching the neighborhood with their regional cuisines. Brick Lane is a world in a city, a culinary tapestry stitched with unique architecture and a checkered past. Even Brick Lane’s place of worship is an ethnic palimpsest. It was initially built as a French Protestant Chapel, then a Methodist Chapel, a Jewish Synagogue, and +40 years ago, it became a Mosque. What begins as an exploration of the culinary delights along one of London’s most storied streets, expands and gives insight into the traditions of the migrant community who created a Little Sylhet in the East End. It’s spicy, aromatic, and helplessly satisfying. There’s no place like Banglatown, not even in India.

A wave of Bangladeshi immigrants (mostly from the Sylhet region) came to London after WW2 and the city gained a distinctive flavor thanks to the new East End curry houses. HUMBLE CURRY AND DELICIOUS DESSERTS The intoxicating rush of spicy aromas and freshly-baked buttery naan bread drew me into Tayyabs (83-89 Fieldgate St). In 1971 Mohammed Tayyab started out serving tea and toast to passing trade, then curries.

There’s nothing quite like a knowledgeable guide to walk you through it all. Tables are reserved, service is pin-sharp with curries and mango lassies appearing in minutes, ready for the cultural stories to unfold. www.eatingeurope.com/london-food-tours

WOW air offers cheap flights to London every day of the week, all year round. Find your flight from the US or Canada at wowair.com. Just like the shortest way to a man’s heart is through his stomach, the shortest route to Bangladesh and India is London.

Issue one 105

French finesse

The art of ordering coffee in Paris There is nothing more enjoyable (or clichéd) than sitting at a Parisian café en Terrace, sipping an espresso, and reading a well-thumbed novel, while people-watching. And, of course, there is an art to ordering coffee in Paris. by Cindy-Lou Dale

hen it comes to deciding what kind of coffee to order, you’ll want to make sure you know what’s on offer. Usually, when you only ask for a coffee, it will be assumed that you want an espresso, no milk. However, that doesn’t mean that there aren’t other options. You just need to know what to ask for. •

•

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Un expresso: If you simply ask for “un café s’il vous plaît,” then you’ll probably be given an espresso. Short and to the point, sipping an espresso in an outdoor café in Paris is one of life’s greatest pleasures. Prices of espresso vary around the city, depending on the arrondissement, usually ranging from €1, all the way up to €4. Une Noisette: No, although the word “noisette” in French means WOW Power to the people

A lot of visitors to Paris have a notion that they’d be eating their body weight in pastries while sipping on a cute little espresso. However, most sidewalk cafés don’t serve coffee with pastries.

hazelnut, you are not going to be given some fancy hazelnut concoction. Instead, you’ll get an espresso with a little steamed milk in it. •

Café Americain: This is your regular filter coffee with milk. However, not every café will offer an Americano, and so instead you need to order “un allongé.”

•

Un allongé: If you don’t want some thing as strong, or as concentrated as an espresso, but still want coffee, then “un allongé” is the choice for you. The allongé typically has double the amount of water as an expresso, with the same amount of coffee.

•

Café crème: A rich coffee base topped with frothy milk, this coffee is much like the standard latté or cappuccino, only French style.

YOU SHOULD KNOW A lot of visitors to Paris have a notion that they’d be eating their body weight in pastries while sipping on a cute little espresso. However, most sidewalk cafés don’t serve coffee with pastries. Instead, there is sometimes the option of purchasing a croissant to go together with your hot drink. Coffee is almost always exclusively drunk on its own, without food. If you want to get a pastry, you’ll have to go to a specialty café or visit a patisserie shop. MY PARISIAN COFFEE ADDRESS BOOK Café Oberkampf: Situated on the trendy Rue Oberkampf, Café Oberkampf serves delicious food and great coffee. Here, you can try the house specialty, shakshuka, and opt for one of their more unusual drinks. I highly recommend ordering a

PARISIAN COFFEE VOCABULARY “dirty chai.” It’s like a cross between a chai tea, and latté, and is basically like heaven to drink. Café Kitsune: Nestled in the very heart of Palais-Royal, Café Kitsuné is one of the best, and only, places in the city to find a matcha latté. If you’re looking for specialty hot drinks, then iced, chai, regular expressos and more are available in this classic Parisian café. I highly recommend getting your drink to take away (à emporter) and savoring it in the Palais Royal park. Au Vieux Paris d’Arcole: Located on Rue Chanoinesse, which is absolutely full of history, Au Vieux Paris d’Arcole is probably the cutest café in all the city.

Even if you don’t speak French, it’s still very much valued when you make a small effort. Here’s a little French Café vocabulary to help you when ordering coffee in Paris: An expresso, please: “Un espresso, s’il vous plaît.” A jug of tap water, please: “Un carafe d’eau, s’il vous plaît” The bill/check please: “L’addition s’il vous plaî.” Eat in/ takeaway: “Sur Place / À Emporter” ON “RUDE” PARISIANS IN CAFÉS There is a gnawing misconception that Parisians are rude and offensive. Back home, narrow thinking got me believing that the French, Parisians especially, are snooty and discourteous to foreign visitors. Instead what I found to be disrespectful was over-generalizing a whole city. So, go to Parisian cafés, be polite (waiters do smile!), enjoy the setting and have your pick of all the different coffee combinations on offer.

Craving a great cup of coffee? WOW air offers cheap flights to Paris every day of the week, all year round. Find your flight at wowair.com. Now that you know how to order coffee in Paris, you’ll be awake and alert and won’t miss out on anything this great city has to offer.

THE ICELANDIC

PENIS MUSEUM We

Dicks!

The Icelandic Phallological Museum is one of the most informative, humorous, and unusual museums in the world. The world famous “Penis museum” in Reykjavik is the only museum in the world to contain a collection of phallic specimens belonging to all the various types of mammal found in a single country. The founder, Sigurður Hjartarson started the collection 40 years ago and made it first accessible to the public in 1997 with the opening of the museum. The Icelandic Phallological Museum contains a collection of more than 220 penises and penile parts belonging to all the land and sea mammals that can be found in Iceland. There is also a foreign section that holds more than forty examples and a folklore section that has some twenty pieces on display. All in all, more than 380 biological examples. In addition to the biological section of the museum, visitors can view a collection of about 350 artistic oddments and practical utensils related to the museum’s chosen theme. The museum is in a 250 square meter location on the upper part of Reykjavik’s main shopping street, Laugavegur, only a 10 minutes walk from the city’s centre. There is a souvenir corner with a small exclusive selection of things related to the museum’s theme.

Seeing is believing! No pornography or offensive material in the museum.

Laugavegur 116 • 105 Reykjavík • Tel.: (+354) 561-6663 (+354) 690 3774• phallus@phallus.is • www.phallus.is Opening hours: Summer: Daily from10 am - 6 pm • Winter: Daily from 11 am -6 pm • Next to Hlemmur bus station Issue one 107

Best bites

White truffles ready for shaving. Photo Credit: Andrew Marshall

White truffles are best shaved paper-thin over simple dishes such as poached eggs or pasta. Photo Credit: Andrew Marshall Truffle hunter and truffle hounds. Photo Credit: Andrew Marshall

A taste of Europe

by Andrew Marshall Photos: Andrew and Paul Marshall and as indicated in photo captions

Europe is the perfect place for unique gastronomic delights and experiences. ITALY – SNUFFLING FOR TRUFFLES One of Italy’s great seasonal food events is the autumn white truffle season. This is when the landscape around the historic towns of Alba and Asti in Piedmont comes alive with truffle hunters and their keen-nosed hounds searching for the prized Tuber Magnatum Pico. This is one of the world’s most expensive food items costing as high as €4,500 per kilo. The range of truffle-related activities include the Fiera del Tartufo Bianco d’Alba (Alba Truffle Fair), truffle hunting excursions, and restaurant visits to experience the unique taste of the white truffle shaved raw over scrambled eggs or a simple pasta dish.

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No Northern Ireland whiskey experience is complete without a visit to a local pub or two, and well worth a visit is the Bushmills Inn.

For an unforgettable dining experience reserve a table at the Unsicht-Bar literally meaning ‘blind restaurant.’ Photo Credit: Paul Marshall

GERMANY – DINE WITH A DIFFERENCE For a unique dining experience in Berlin, reserve a table at the unsicht-Bar (unsicht-bar.de). Blind waiters lead you through the pitch-black dining room to your table and explain the placing of utensils using a clock analogy, (for example the spoons are located at 12 o’clock) so that you can eat in the dark. The theory behind the concept is that by voluntarily abandoning your vision, you will be able to experience what wonderful work your other senses are capable of. ENGLAND – SUGAR & SPICE The picturesque village of Pateley Bridge in the Yorkshire Dales is home to the Oldest Sweet Shop in England (oldestsweetshop. co.uk) and, in fact, the world, according to the Guinness World Records book. Inside, the shelves are packed with row upon row of glass jars bursting with over 200 kinds of brightly colored confectionary, and on the wooden countertop are the traditional Avery scales used to measure the sweets into paper bags. “It started out as a general store in 1827 selling items such as milk, bread, eggs and sweets and has been trading continuously ever since,” says the confectioner, Keith Tordoff.

Andy Swinscoe cuts some cheese inside The Courtyard Dairy in Settle. Photo Credit: Kate Moseley

NORTHERN IRELAND – TAKE A WHISKEY TOUR Amid the green fields on Northern Ireland’s County Antrim coast near the world famous Giant’s Causeway, where the winds blow, and the water is clean and pure, is a small town that is home to Old Bushmills (bushmills.com), the oldest licensed whiskey distillery in the world, established in 1608. Take a tour to learn more about the

The seaside town of Arbroath on the Angus coast is home to one of Scotland’s most famous regional delicacies—the Arbroath Smokie.

SWEDEN – HISTORIC DINING Den Gyldene Freden (gyldenefreden.se), or “The Golden Peace,” situated in the heart of Stockholm’s old town, is one of Sweden’s most historic restaurants and has been open continuously since 1722. Consisting of three cellar dining rooms, each with their own ambiance, and on three different levels, the building is owned by the Swedish Academy, and members have dinner there every Thursday night. The environment is matched by the food, where a selection of imaginative modern dishes is blended with traditional Swedish cooking, including such classics as husets sill (assorted herring of the house) and viltkötbular med gräddsås och lingon (meatballs of game with cream sauce and lingonberries).

Arbroath Smokie. The traditional method of making this, still in use today, involves curing freshly caught haddock in salt and then hanging it in pairs in a special barrel containing a hardwood fire to smoke for up to an hour. Take a stroll through the huddled cottages of the “Fit o’ the Toon” district to visit the traditional producers, buy a Smokie or two, and enjoy their unique savory flavor down by the harbor.

Bushmills mirror and whiskey bottle inside the distillery bar. Photo Credit: Paul Marshall

whiskey-making process—one that takes malted barley grinds it up into a mash with water and then distills it before putting it in casks to mature. The tour finishes with the best bit—a taste test in the distillery bar. No Northern Ireland whiskey experience is complete without a visit to a local pub or two, and well worth a visit is the Bushmills Inn. There you can enjoy a glass of 25-year-old Bushmills Malt from the inn’s private cask by the cozy glow of an open turf fire. Other good watering holes in the village include The Scotch House Bushmills, The Bush House, and Distillers Arms.

An Arbroath Smokie seller shows off his produce. Photo Credit: Paul Marshall

FRANCE – CHAMPAGNE TASTING Local pub regular and the smooth amber fluid inside the Scotch House Bushmills, one of several pubs in Bushmills town.Photo Credit: Paul Marshall

SCOTLAND – THE SMOKIE TRAIL Serving a whiskey inside the Bushmills Inn. Photo Credit: Paul Marshall 15: The Bushmills Inn.

The seaside town of Arbroath on the Angus coast is home to one of Scotland’s most famous regional delicacies—the

Photo Credit: Paul Marshall

Lying some 100 kilometers northeast of Paris is the historical province of Champagne-Ardenne, best known for its production of the world’s most famous sparkling wine. Here you can explore the Route Touristique du Champagne—600 kilometers of signposted roads that meander through the principal wine-growing areas and main champagne centers of Épernay and Reims.

BUY DIRECTLY FROM THE PEOPLE WHO MAKE THEM HANDKNITTED IN ICELAND

Skólavörðustígur 19 & Borgartún 31

t: +354 552 1890

handknitted.is

Issue one 109

Best bites This is home to famous champagne houses such as Moët & Chandon and Mercier, many of which offer informative tours and tastings. Six kilometers from Épernay is the picturesque village of Hautvillers, where Dom Pérignon, cellar master at the Benedictine Abbey, contributed to the development of champagne centuries ago. In the wooded hills around Verzy is Le Perching Bar (perchinglife.com), the world’s first champagne bar in the trees.

BELGIUM – GORGING ON CHOCOLATES

Photo Credit: Karin Rikkonen

A selection of handmade chocolates from the Chocolate Line in Bruges including the famous Chili and Havana varieties. Photo Credit: Karin Rikkonen

The Mayans may have invented it, but one country that is synonymous with chocolate is Belgium. Many connoisseurs consider the nation’s specialty—bonbons or pralines—to be the world’s best. Anyone strolling around the heart of Brussels or the medieval city of Bruges can’t fail to notice the magical interaction between their romantic histories, the scattering of numerous chocolate stores and the pure artisanal character of the old and new generation of chocolatiers. Top chocolate shop picks include Pierre Marcoloni (marcolini.be), Wittamer (wittamer.com) and Mary (mary.be) in Brussels, and the Chocolate Line (thechocolateline.be) and Chocolaterie Sukerbuyc (sukerbuyc.be) in Bruges.

Filling chocolates during a chocolate making demonstration at Choco-Story, Bruges. Photo Credit: Karin Rikkonen

Exterior of the Palace Bar. Photo Credit: Paul Marshall

IRELAND – ENJOYING A PINT The Palace Bar (thepalacebardublin.com) established in 1823, is the perfect example of a traditional Dublin pub. Step into the beautiful snug with its mirrors and wooden niches of Victorian mahogany in which many a historic meeting has taken place, or the back room with its high ceiling and ornate stained glass where literary stock used to gather. Writers Flann O’Brien and Patrick Kavanagh were once regulars, and the Palace Bar became one of Dublin’s great literary pubs. Other classic pubs for a pint include O’Neill’s (oneillspubdublin.com), Long Hall, Temple Bar (thetemplebarpub.com) and Mulligans (mulligans.ie). Window display- The Oldest Sweet Shop In England. Photo Credit: Andrew Marshall

ENGLAND – CHEESE, GLORIOUS CHEESE If you’re a cheese aficionado and find yourself in the north of England, don’t miss the award-winning Courtyard Dairy (thecourtyarddairy.co.uk) in Settle, run by Andy Swinscoe, Cheesemonger of the Year at the World Cheese Awards. His mantra is to select and sell the best cheese available locally and in other parts of the UK and France, and by doing so, champion independent farmhouse cheese makers. This specialist cheese shop stocks a range of unusual and exquisite artisan cheeses, like the tangy Dale End Cheddar from Botton Creamery near Whitby, and the cloth-bound Richard III Wensleydale made to a traditional pre-war recipe by Andy Ridley in Richmond. The cheese is given Andy’s magical touch of special aging and maturing (affinage), learned first-hand from working for some of the most famous cheesemongers of France and England.

The Oldest Sweet Shop In England. Please Credit: The Oldest Sweet Shop In England.

WOW air offers flights to many European cities. Find your cheap flight to Europe at wowair.com. O’Neills has been granted the James Joyce Award for being an authentic Dublin pub. Photo Credit: Paul Marshall

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Europe is a tasty treat for travelers, and your taste buds will thank you for bringing them over.

“The Icelandic Museum of Rock 'n' Roll is as eccentric in its telling as the tale it celebrates.” David Fricke, Rolling Stone.

THE ICELANDIC MUSEUM OF ROCK 'N' ROLL

Visit Iceland's largest music museum and enjoy our history of Icelandic rock and pop music. Browse through the timeline of Icelandic pop and rock music with the Rock 'n' Roll app on Ipads, spend time in our soundlab, cinema, karaoke booth, gift store, exhibitions or simply grab a cup of coffee at our café (free wifi!).

The museum is located in Keflavík only 5 minutes away from Keflavík International Airport. Open daily from 11am - 6pm For more go to rokksafn.is

The Icelandic Museum of Rock 'n' Roll

Issue one 111

WOW destinations

You want

more?

WOW! Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve got so many destinations we donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have room for articles about all of them. WOW air now has 26 destinations and will continue to offer cheap flights to all of them and connecting the continents. You can check out all our flight destinations and low fares at wowair.com.

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ALICANTE Warm up by the Mediterranean Sea and taste the best of Spain. WOW air now offers cheap flights* to Alicante from Iceland, with available connections from USA and Canada.

Getting there is the easy part. WOW air offers 2-4 flights a week to Barcelona from Iceland, with available connections from USA and Canada. BOSTON The city that’s famous for Cheers and good shopping. WOW air offers cheap flights to Boston from Iceland all days of the week all year round. Connecting flights* to Boston are available from most WOW destinations in Europe.

WOW air flies to Dublin every day of the week, all year round with available connections from USA and Canada. DÜSSELDORF This great city on the Rhine is famous for its art and culture, luxury fashion and lifestyle. WOW air flies to Düsseldorf, Germany from Iceland, with available connections from USA and Canada, three times* a week during the summer season.

BRUSSELS

AMSTERDAM A city of art, architecture, cool people and canals, and don’t forget windmills, weird wooden shoes and tulips. Amsterdam is a fairytale and a great place to visit. WOW air offers cheap flights* to Amsterdam from USA, Canada and Iceland daily, all year round. BARCELONA Barcelona truly is the perfect destination; tasty tapas, seaside promenades and mind-blowing architecture.

A trendy hot-spot with a wide range of tourist attractions, Brussels, Belgium is a perfect destination for a fun family vacation or a short city break. Known for fine chocolate, tasty waffles, premium beer and mussels this cool destination will surprise you. WOW air offers cheap flights to Brussels 4-7 days a week, all year round. DUBLIN Dublin has become a modern European city without losing the grip on its Irish roots and just a stone’s throw away is the spectacular Irish nature.

EDINBURGH Enjoy Scottish hospitality, listen to the smooth sounds of bag pipes, swim with the Loch Ness Monster, taste the national dish—haggis—and wash it all down with some fine Scottish whiskey. We guarantee you’ll get hooked on Scotland! WOW air now offers up to four flights* a week to Edinburgh from USA, Canada and Iceland.

FRANKFURT Frankfurt am Main, aka “Main hattan” is Germany’s most cosmopolitan city but that doesn’t mean history isn’t appreciated there. When you visit Frankfurt don’t miss out on the Mosel Valley for a taste of Germany’s best wines. Prost! WOW air offers cheap flights to Frankfurt am Main from USA, Canada and Iceland, every day of the week*, all year round. GRAN CANARIA The city of Las Palmas in Gran Canaria is warm all year round so it’s a perfect destination for both the chilly and the chill. WOW air offers weekly flights to Gran Canaria from December until April 2019.

WHERE THE NORTHERN LIGHTS ARE ALWAYS ON DISPLAY

MULTIMEDIA EXHIBITION

MOVIE THEATER

TOUR BOOKING SERVICE

GIFT SHOP AND GALLERY

Grandagarður 2 | 101 Reykjavík Tel: +354 780 4500 | free parking

open daily 09:00 - 21:00

10% ONLINE DISCOUNT www.aurorareykjavik.is

www.aurorareykjavik.is

Issue one 113

WOW destinations

LYON Experience the gastronomic capital of France with all its history and vibrant cultural scene. WOW air flies to Lyon four times a week* during the summer, (from May to September 2019) with available connections from USA and Canada.

MILAN Get ready for high fashion and high culture and don’t forget to feast your eyes on da Vinci’s Last Supper. WOW air flies to Milan, Italy from Iceland, with available connections from USA and Canada, 2-3 times a week* from June to September.

TEL AVIV For sunny fun and great food, Tel Aviv is the city to visit. Known for its lively and vibrant nightlife, welcoming and relaxed atmosphere and amazing history and architecture, the city of Tel Aviv will be a pleasant surprise. Get ready for a whole new experience. WOW air flies to Tel Aviv, Israel, three to four times a week*, during the summer season.

MONTRÉAL

TORONTO

This cultural gem has been nicknamed La Belle Ville or the Beautiful City and it’s more European than American at its core. Here you’ll find design, art, culture, nightlife and culinary scenes that rival the best in the world. And don’t forget about the hockey.

This hip and happening city is a cultural melting pot where you’ll find world renowned restaurants, a vibrant nightlife and super friendly Canadians.

WOW air flies to Montréal, Canada four to seven times a week*, all year round. SALZBURG Looking for that perfect winter destination? European ski resorts are known for being budget friendly and the Austrian Alps’ best ski resorts are just a short drive from Salzburg Airport.

TENERIFE Relaxing on a tropical island sounds like a dream and Tenerife is a dream come true. WOW air offers 2-3 flights a week* to Tenerife Sur from Iceland all year round.

Check out Canada! WOW air offers cheap flights* to Toronto from Europe, several times a week, all year round. WARSAW The capital of Poland has some historic charisma and is a great destination if you’re on a budget. WOW air offers flights to

Warsaw from Iceland, with available connections from USA and Canada, two times a week* during the summer season. WASHINGTON, D.C. AND BALTIMORE Are you ready for a monumental trip? Get acquainted with the history of the United States of America and enjoy its great capital. You can also visit the lovely city of Baltimore on the same trip. WOW air offers cheap flights to Washington, D.C. and Baltimore from Europe, every day of the week*, all year round.

Pack your skis; WOW air flies to Salzburg from Iceland once a week from the end of December to the beginning of March 2019. STOCKHOLM The capital of Sweden is a city of contrasts, an urban paradise full of fun and history but with a relaxed and modern atmosphere. WOW air flies to Stockholm Arlanda airport, from USA, Canada and Iceland, offering 3-4 flights a week*.

The WOW Stopover When flying between North America and Europe take advantage of our WOW Stopover option. It’s kind of like getting two vacations in one. Find out more at wowair.com

* Note that the availability of connecting flights between USA and Europe/Asia may vary depending on the flight frequency to each city. WOW air connects London, Edinburgh, Dublin, Berlin, Düsseldorf, Frankfurt, Copenhagen, Amsterdam, Brussels, Paris, Lyon, Stockholm, Alicante, Barcelona, Milan, Warsaw and Tel Aviv to New York, Boston and Washington, D.C./Baltimore in the US and Toronto and Montréal in Canada.

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WOW Power to the people

www.naturebaths.is #myvatnnaturebaths Issue one 115

This and that …

mostly this

by Evan Lewis / Photos: iStockphoto.com and from private collections

NO NAME PIZZA, NO LONGER

The high and mighty Althingi. Photo: Kristinn Magnússon

Klausturgate Crony politicians exist everywhere, and Iceland is no exception. On November 28 a recording taken at a local bar Klaustur (from which this scandal now derives its name) in Reykjavik was leaked that exposed Icelandic members of parliament speaking in misogynistic tones about their female colleagues. The conversation involved discussion about their physical appearance and mental stability, with vulgar language being tossed around casually by those present. While the leaks caused much public outrage, responses have been varied with

The times they are a’changin’ There has been a recent debate in Iceland regarding whether or not to change the clock in Iceland according to the country’s global position. Nobel awarded research into the matter has shown that morning light is the most detrimental when it comes to setting the body’s internal clock. Because Icelanders have their clock set to the wrong time zone they wake up at 5 in

some drawing attention to the fact that what was meant to be a private conversation was recorded in a public setting, signifying an invasion of privacy. One of the parliamentarians went as far as to allege that “someone had broken into someone’s phone and engaged in bugging.” Many of the parliamentarians involved in the conversation have apologized to the public, although, as seems to be the custom in Iceland, none have resigned. After rigorous self-reflection, as they call it, they have concluded that they are still needed in the parliament turning the blame against the media and the woman who recorded them instead. Who saw that coming? the morning while the clock might say 7. The lack of morning light sets their internal clock so when it’s time to go to bed in the evening they tend to go later resulting in a chronic lack of sleep. Three options have been presented to the public – the clock remains unchanged, the clock is set back one hour, or the clock remains unchanged and everything will start later in the morning, such as school and work. The majority of Icelanders are in favor of turning the clock back one hour. However, many also believe that it will not really make a difference as the change in daylight is so drastic between the winter and summer months that one hour of savings is not enough. A forum is being held online until March 10th for Icelanders to voice their opinion. Afterward, the government will then look at the results to help them decide as to whether the clock should be moved back nationwide or not. Perhaps next year you will arrive in Iceland and the times will literally have changed!

Luna Flórens flies the Coocoo’s Nest Owners of one of Reykjavik’s most mentioned bar and restaurants Coocoo’s Nest has opened up a sister establishment called Luna Flórens at Grandagarður 25. The new concept stands by itself offering its own experience but is very much an extension to the Coocoo’s Nest. Luna Flórens is a holistic gypsy bar and boutique that serves as a cozy café during the day. Here you can get lost in antiques, plants, and crystals that are all for sale, while sipping on blooming teas combined with vegan cakes as well as other menu items from the Coocoo’s Nest. Thursday through Saturday Luna Flórens is open later, offering refreshing cocktails with a healthy twist, playing with sprouts and freshly squeezed juices. Try their pomegranate Mimosa and Kræ Royal with Icelandic crowberry liquor in it.

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The highly esteemed noname pizza place, located at Hverfisgata 12 in downtown Reykjavik, has permanently closed and will be replaced by a new restaurant called Systir (Sister). The owners of the distinctive pizza joint stated their interest in changing the restaurant to continue in the direction of another one of their more popular restaurants, the Michelin starred Dill. Ólafur Ágústsson, chef and co-owner of the no-name pizza place, as well as Systir, stated that “[they] have the resources and talent for the cuisine that has made Dill distinctive and we wanted to connect the two restaurants better.” Dill is located on the ground floor of the Hverfisgata 12 location, and it is the only restaurant in Iceland that has been bestowed the coveted Michelin star. Though we are excited for the opening of Systir, the no-name pizza place will truly be missed by all who were fortunate enough to chow down on their delicious cheese pies.

GERARD BUTLER DOES NEW YEARS IN ICELAND Gerard Butler graced Reykjavik with his presence over New Year’s Eve, and we couldn’t be more ecstatic. He and a few Icelandic notables such as Ólafur Darri Ólafsson and Jónsi from Sigur Rós hung out, went to see a showing of How to Train Your Gerard Butler. Photo: Wikipedia, Dragon 3 at the Laugarásbíó movie theater, and attended a concert at the culture house Iðnó. Butler returned to Iðnó for New Year’s Eve and was also seen at the bar Miami, located in the city center. He seemed to have really enjoyed welcoming the new year in Reykjavik, and we cannot blame him. Reykjavik is quite the spectacle on New Year’s Eve – you really have to see it. Maybe next year you’ll do New Year’s Eve Gerad Butler style.

A Reykjavik Catnapping Reykjavik is perhaps the safest city on the planet – for humans and pets alike. However, an incident occurred at a local clothing store recently that begs the question, is Reykjavik safe anymore? On a cold night in December, Baktus, the famous feline that dwells in the vintage clothing shop, Gyllti Kötturinn (and also loves hanging out in the nearby Cintamani store) was reported missing. Many of his close friends were severely heartbroken by his absence and sought to investigate into his whereabouts. There were reports that a man had picked him up on Klapparstígur and taken him into a

cab. Why, you ask? Perhaps it was his cuteness that drove the man to orchestrate this unscrupulous act. We don’t know. To everyone’s satisfaction, though, the cat showed up the next morning with a crowd that had gathered outside of the establishment to welcome his return. Tired and weary, and in the safety of his home, Baktus fell into a deep sleep. We really don’t know what happened to Baktus on that godforsaken night. We like to think that he was just out enjoying the Reykjavik nightlife and got invited to one of those famous after-parties. That would explain the morning fatigue…

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This and that …

mostly this

by Evan Lewis / Photos: iStockphoto.com and from private collections

CHANGING FOR THE BETTER

Skorradalur. Photo: Wikipedia,

THINGS TO DO, GO GREEN FOUR MILLION TREES WILL BE PLANTED IN 2019 The Icelandic Forest Service expects to plant roughly four million trees in 2019 as part of a long-term action plan to combat

climate change. The new plantings will consist of various species including birch, larch, spruce, pine, and cottonwood and will supplement the three million that were planted last year. A large percentage of the new trees will be planted in Skorradalur in West Iceland with a cluster of plantings also being sowed at a new grove near Þorlákshöfn in South Iceland. The National Forest Division Chief, Þröstur Eysteinsson has high expectations for reforestation projects in the future and sees them playing a big role in Iceland’s climate action plan.

A recent survey conducted by Gallup shows that 62.6% of Icelanders have committed to changing their behavior in recent years to mitigate their impact on the environment and climate. The study revealed that 51.6% of Icelanders have altered their shopping, eating, and travel habits as a means to reduce their ecological and environmental footprint. It would be nice for these numbers to be a little higher, but we still think it’s a decent achievement and a step in the right direction.

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REYKJAVIK RANKS THIRD IN SUSTAINABLE DESTINATIONS WORLDWIDE Reykjavik has come in third place on the Global Destination Sustainability Index (GDS) with an overall score of 89%. Other Nordic cities have graced the top six spots with Gothenburg and Copenhagen placing first and second, respectively. The index considers cities’ environmental policies and looks at the initiatives taken by companies that provide meeting services about environmental policy. Reykjavik’s high ranking is credited to the country’s renewable energy usage, with 100% of the city’s electricity and heat being sourced from renewable sources. This year’s ranking for Reykjavik is the same as last year’s, although its overall score has gone up.

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This and that â&#x20AC;Ś

mostly this

by Evan Lewis / Photos: iStockphoto.com and from private collections

The Return of Secret Solstice

Up for a Subventure?

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locations around Iceland

Reykjavik hosts some pretty cool music festivals and its doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t just stop at Sonar or Iceland Airwaves. The sixth edition of the Secret Solstice Music Festival returns to Reykjavik this summer, from 21-23 June, and we are sure that this will be one for the books. The Phase One Lineup has been revealed and includes the likes of Martin Garrix, Robert Plant, Rita Ora, Pussy Riot, and many, many more. This three-day festival will feature 40 different acts across multiple genres including dance, electronica, hip-hop, and pop. In the past, Secret Solstice has brought together legendary lineups featuring popular as well as emerging acts, and has hosted concerts at glaciers and in lava tunnels around Iceland. It has become a platform to discover on-the-rise talent from all over the world. Early Bird passes for the festival are now on sale and can be purchased at www.secretsolstice.is.

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Hey

look!

What’s going on over here? Quite a lot actually, and if you know where to go you can live each night in Iceland like there’s a full blown festival going on. by Ewan Lewis - photos: From respective venues and events

Photo: Marcos Zotes

WHAT: Winter Lights Festival WHEN: February 1 - February 4 WHERE: Reykjavik As the days become longer and the darkness of winter begins to subside, a celebration of winters passing is held in the world’s northernmost capital. The Winter Lights Festival provides entertainment for locals and guests alike and consists of inspiring light displays, outdoor events, and other cultural activities. Local businesses and institutions will participate in the festival. The festival’s most popular event, Museum Night, will take place on February 8 in which museums across the capital area will host dances, plays, literature readings, lectures, live music, films, and much more, free of charge. All city pools will be open to the public free of charge on February 9.

Rainbow Reykjavik offers tours around South Iceland and hosts parties and outdoor activities such as geothermal bathing and Northern Lights watching tours. Iceland is frequently referred to as one of the most LGBTQI-friendly countries in the world. Discrimination based on sexual orientation is forbidden by law, and nearly everyone celebrates the equality of LGBTQI people. This year’s festival features popular performer, Detox, who gleaned much attention after her outof-this-world performance at Iceland’s 2018 Summer Pride Festival. She will be performing at The Masquerade Ball on March 9th. You must see her!

Winter Pride is the biggest LGBTQI event of the season in Reykjavik.

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WHAT: Reykjavik Folk Festival WHEN: March 1 - March 3 WHERE: TBA Experience the breadth and uniqueness of Icelandic folk music at this three-day music extravaganza. Artists from all around the country, as well as abroad, come together for this annual event. This festival is family friendly and includes all sorts of folksy things including musical storytelling and ballads from times gone by. Reykjavik’s vibrant folk music scene is a force to be reckoned with. Come see for yourself. Photo Lilja Jónsdóttir.

WHAT: Art in the Light WHEN: February 16-17 WHERE: Seyðisfjörður

Photos courtesy of Pink Iceland

For more information visit www. visitseydisfjordur.com/project/list-i-ljosi/

Learn more about this event at www. rainbowreykjavik.is/

For further information visit http:// winterlightsfestival.is/about

WHAT: Rainbow Reykjavik Winter Pride WHEN: March 7 - March 10 WHERE: Various venues

There are also performances, movies, and parties that are hosted at different venues throughout the town.

In the quaint town of Seyðisfjörður in East Iceland, a festival is held annually to celebrate the long-awaited return of the sun and the island’s emergence from the shadow of winter. Yes, Icelanders are known for finding any reason to celebrate, and with spring just around the corner, they have good cause to be giddy. The Art in the Light Festival is a celebration that lights up the small town of Seyðisfjörður, literally, by projecting colorful light installations onto building facades and displaying illuminated art installations from international and local artists.

WHAT: National Beer Day WHEN: March 1 WHERE: Bars and pubs around Iceland Icelandic people love their beer…and their right to drink it. For a long time (1915-1989), beer was illegal in Iceland. When the ban was lifted on the 1st of March in 1989, Icelanders flocked the streets to celebrate. Since then, Iceland’s beer scene made an enormous leap with an increase in Icelandic breweries nationwide, as well as the introduction of craft beer. Although there are no organized events on this day, it is still celebrated by many. If you are in Reykjavik on National Beer Day, make some friends and head to the nearest pub for a pint or two (or ten). Learn more about National Beer Day in Iceland at guidetoiceland.is/history-culture/ beer-day-in-iceland

Find more information about the Reykjavik Folk Festival at folkfestival.is/en/

WHAT: Food & Fun WHEN: February 27 - March 3 WHERE: Various restaurants in Reykjavik The Food and Fun Festival is a seven-day event that brings remarkable chefs from all over the world to Reykjavik to showcase their cooking skills. Local and international chefs are asked to prepare three-course meals using only fresh Icelandic ingredients. The public is invited to meet the chefs and taste their culinary masterpieces at participating restaurants around the city. This festival has recently gained international recognition as chefs from the USA and Europe are taking part.

Find out more at www.foodandfun.is

AVAILABLE IN HAIR SALONS IN ICELAND Issue one 123

Hey

look!

What’s going on over here? Quite a lot actually, and if you know where to go you can live each night in Iceland like there’s a full blown festival going on.

WHAT: Design March WHEN: March 28 – March 30 WHERE: Various venues in Reykjavik Since its inception in 2008, DesignMarch has quickly become Iceland’s most anti cipated annual design festival. Boasting around 100 events, the three-day extravaganza explores all types of design, from fashion to architecture, typography to furniture. Designers from around the world participate. The festival will kick off with DesignTalks, a day of lectures by local design visionaries and internationally acclaimed designers that explore current topics and challenges in modern design. Events will be held at several different venues all around the city. More information can be found at designmarch.is/ about-designmarch

WHAT: Sonar Reykjavik WHEN: April 25 – April 27 WHERE: Harpa Concert Hall

Learn more and buy your tickets at sonarreykjavik.com/ en/2019/what-is-sonarreykjavik Artist Leave Ya at Harpa Concert Hall. Photo: Anita Bjork, courtesy of Sónar Reykjavik

The worldwide Sonar Electronic Music Festival added Reykjavik to its list of annual destinations in 2013, and we are grateful that they did. This music festival is one of the biggest in Reykjavik and has hosted the likes of Major Lazer, Skrillex, and Fatboy Slim in the past. Local electronic and hip-hop artists will grace the stages of Harpa, placing a spotlight on the Icelandic music scene and showcasing established, rising, and soon-to-be-rising talent. International musicians will also be performing. Be sure to buy your tickets to this pioneering cultural event in the heart of Reykjavik.

WHAT: Iceland Winter Games WHEN: March 23 - March 25 WHERE: Akureyri

How would you like to see your company in our next issue? Contact our advertising representative and he’ll make it happen. He’s just that good! halli@wow.is

The Icelandic Winter Games brings outdoor and winter sports enthusiasts together in Iceland’s northern capital, Akureyri, to compete in several different events. From ski competitions to dog sledding championships, snowboarding to horseback riding, there will be a large variety of games to participate in and watch. Iceland Winter Games hosts events that you won’t find anywhere else, such as the “Volcanic Big Air” snowmobile show and the free-ski and snowboard competition. Located on the country’s longest fjord, Akureyri is surrounded by stunning scenery and situated just below the Arctic Circle. Find out more about this event at www.icelandwintergames.com/en/games

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Issue one 125

February -March

ARIES

LIBRA

21 MARCH - 19 APRIL

23 SEPTEMBER - 23 OCTOBER

A big social event will occur on March 3rd that will involve a lot of rice wine and parachutes. It will also involve fried frog legs and copious amounts of vegan dumplings.

The stars predict that you will wake up tomorrow, do a bunch of stuff, then go back to sleep. Also, you may or may not accidentally fart in a public area, drawing much unwanted attention.

TAURUS

SCORPIO

20 APRIL - 20 MAY

24 OCTOBER - 21 NOVEMBER

After re-watching the first installment in the Austin Powers series, “Austin Powers: International Man of Mystery,” you and your partner will finally decide on naming your new cat “Mr. Bigglesworth,” in honor of the great Dr. Evil. After a few weeks, this will be shortened to “Biggles,” and then to “Biggs” which, let’s be honest, rolls off the tongue much easier.

According to the position of Saturn and Jupiter, you should probably stay in bed all next week. If your boss asks why you haven’t been showing up to work explain about your horoscope. We are sure they’ll understand.

GEMINI 21 MAY - 21 JUNE Skip the anti-aging serums; those ten hours of sleep you’ve been getting have truly done the job. You will be looking 20 again in no time.

CANCER 22 JUNE - 22 JULY This month, you will really sharpen your incredible wit, your breathtaking beauty, and your astounding intelligence. You’ll participate in new, enjoyable activities and come closer to achieving those long-term goals that you’ve set for yourself. Keep doing this and you’ll become insanely awesome!

22 NOVEMBER - 21 DECEMBER Remember that time you tried to photocopy your butt a few years ago just to see what would happen? This week that will come back to haunt you.

CAPRICORN 22 DECEMBER - 19 JANUARY You will read an article on Facebook about the dangers of sleeping with your cellphone so close to you in the night. And because you fall asleep while watching YouTube every night, you’ll take immediate action by keeping your phone in a separate room while you sleep. It will be difficult at first, but in time, you’ll get much better sleep.

AQUARIUS 20 JANUARY - 18 FEBRUARY

You will finally find time to read that one book you have been putting off for the past five years. Unfortunately, it has lost its literary and cultural relevancy.

VIRGO

PISCES

23 AUGUST - 22 SEPTEMBER

19 FEBRUARY - 20 MARCH

This week you will purchase a humidifier for your room. You’ll be so excited about it that you’ll forget to read the instructions before filling it with water and turning it on HIGH. You will wake up in the middle of the night to damp bed sheets and condensation dripping from the ceiling. The good thing is that reading instruction will become a major part your future purchases.

According to the stars, you will travel to a place that is far away from home and become so in love with the culture and the people that you’ll decide to move there permanently. Your friends and family at home will miss you, but it will prove to be a wise decision in the long run.

23 JULY - 22 AUGUST

WOW Power to the people

SAGITTARIUS

You will be unnaturally busy this month with schoolwork and spend a lot of time inside the house. This will be bad for your New Year’s resolutions as your reluctance to leave the house will result in you staying in bed and ordering a crazy amount of Domino’s. The stars say, you should start your New Year’s resolutions next month.

LEO

126

2019

Disclaimer: This horoscope is total and utter nonsense. Any accuracy, real or imagined, is purely accidental.

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Issue one 127

WOW SUDOKU

REALLY, REALLY BORED? HERE ARE A FEW SUDOKUS TO MAKE TIME FLY.

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Issue one 129

THE TRAVELING INQUISITION

It’s a laugh!

Örn Árnason is one of Iceland’s most famous and beloved actors and comedian. You can watch him in the funny one man show How to become Icelandic in 60 minutes at the Harpa Conference and Concert Center in downtown Reykjavík, but Örn also works as a tourist guide which means that if he chooses to be funny, you might end up laughing the whole trip. Örn was apprehended by the Traveling Inquisition and asked to explain his jokes thoroughly.

irst thing’s first. Who is Örn Árnason? “My first name is Örn which means eagle, and being the son of Árni, my surname is Árnarson. I’m 59 years old and have been working as an actor and entertainer in Iceland for 37 years.” LESSONS ON ICELANDIC Örn has done theater, TV, and movies as well as presenting at big galas and private entertainment for companies. His current gig is teaching visitors in Iceland how to become Icelandic in 60 minutes. “The show has 15 easy to learn lessons. Learning from a local, you will become an expert… Learn to walk, talk, change your name, learn the “things will somehow work out!” mantra, and add useful Icelandic words to your vocabulary so you can blend in. Get the Icelandic sagas in

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by Svava Jónsdóttir Photos: From private collection

60 seconds as well, and you will get closer to the true Icelander.” THE SINGING TOUR GUIDE Örn also works as a tour guide which gives him ample opportunity to tell jokes while educating visitors even further and off script. “A few years ago, I got my degree as a guide from the Iceland tourist association. I also work as a driver guide bringing eager travelers all around Iceland, not only showing them this beautiful country but also singing some classic Icelandic songs, and sometimes international standards flow in the bus as well.” THE FIELDS OF THE PARLIAMENT Örn says it’s difficult to choose his favorite spot in Iceland because there are so many like Djúpalón Beach on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula, Gullfoss,

Dettifoss, the jagged Mt. Kirkjufell and Hrísey Island in the Eyjafjörður Fjord. “I can go on and on, but pro bably I would name Þingvellir as my favorite spot because of the history. There we founded an outdoor parliament in the year 930 which lasted for almost 700 years. The enormous Mid Atlantic ridge, stretching over 60,000 km. from the north to south, runs through these fields and is very visible from that spot. Even in rain and wintertime, this is a remarkable place to visit. I go there just for a Sunday drive. It helps me appreciate our history; it’s an inspiration.” BIRTHPLACE OF THE WALTZ Because of his job, Örn travels ex tensively within Iceland but what is his favorite place abroad? “My favorite spot on foreign ground must be Vienna—the birthplace of Strauss

and the waltz. And there are only two things preventing me from becoming a very good dancer,” he admits… “my feet! But attending a concert in the Wiener Konzerthaus or the Musik verein Concert Hall is like walking into history. Many great composers like Mozart lived in Vienna and walking in their footsteps can give you a feel for the history. In Vienna, there are great markets, like the Naschmarkt where you can taste food and spices from many corners of the world. Walking through the palaces formerly owned by the emperors and elite, which today are all museums, gives you an insight on how it used to be. While gazing at those great monuments can make you feel very small, today by plane, the world, as a whole, has become so much smaller because many such places are only hours away, just waiting for you to experience them.”

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A design studio & retailer of carefully selected fashion brands & products from around the world.

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WOW Power to the people MEN: Skólavörðustígur 16. WOMEN: Skólavörðustígur 7 & Kringlan. HOME: Skólavörðustígur 12. GEYSIR: Hafnarstræti, Akureyri and Haukadalur. Geysir.com

WOW magazine Issue 1 2019 - Icelandic food

Articles inside

A taste of Europe

The art of ordering coffee in Paris

Time for a London curry

Copenhagen\u2019s coolest natural wine spots

A guide to brunching in Berlin

Germany's Mosel Valley

10 Italian dishes you must try

The most Instagrammable places in NYC's Lower East Side

Doing Detroit

The sugar shacks of Montreal

Reykjav\u00EDk Street Food

All about the langoustine

Airplane meals that will take you places

Icelandic food: BEWARE!

An Icelandic Kleina recipe

The Icelandic Kleina - A perfect treat

Best food stops around Iceland

Fishing villages in Iceland

How to cook a traditional Icelandic Lamb Soup?

Join a cooking class in Iceland

The new Nordic kitchen

Eating you way around Lake M\u00FDvatn

Wave hunting in Iceland

The Reykjavik Food Tours you'll love