WOW magazine - Art Issue by WOW air

e azin mag ISSUE FOUR 2018

Bites of art: Olafur Eliasson and Victoria Eliasdottir open a temporary restaurant/art space by Grandi Harbor

Plus: Reykjavik Underground Art Scene â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Keep your eyes peeled for variety shows, music and art in unusual places. Y O U R F R E E C O P Y -TA K E M E W I T H Y O U

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THE GEYSIR CENTER Directly opposite of the geothermal area of the great Geysir & Strokkur

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Issue four 5

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Issue four 7

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l r a e p n e A hidd h t u o s e h t in ing or for a p m ca r fo t o sp d o o g g for a course or lf Whether you’re lookin o g t a re g a l, o o p g swimmin cottage to rent, a cozy ir in Grímsnes is rg o b n u ra H y, il m fa whole fun mini golf for the ur needs. yo ll a t e e m ly re su l il a hidden pearl that w

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A letter from the editor

In this issue

Power to the people – four 2018

14 A letter from the CEO 16 Reykjavik Underground Art Scene Reykjavík’s art scene is booming, and if you dig a little into it, you’ll find a plethora of entertainment options. 20 An original perspective Award-winning English photographer Antony Spencer has made a career by pushing boundaries to produce spectacularly beautiful and original landscape photos. 26 Gallery love: BERG Contemporary BERG Contemporary is a commercial gallery located in an old glass factory on Klapparstígur. 28 Museum love: Ásmundarsafn Museum Ásmundur Sveinson was one of the pioneers of sculpturing in Iceland and a museum dedicated to his work is now situated in his former home and workshop, a unique building on the edge of Laugardalur Valley. 30 How your small change could make a big change Phenomenal nature is the top reason for visiting Iceland, but Icelandic nature is fragile and needs a little help.

WOW DESTINATIONS 84 Poetry Brothels around the world The concept of a poetry brothel has existed for a decade now and has made its way around the world. It is a chance to experience something completely different while on holiday. 88 Savoring the new flavors of Pittsburgh There’s a new creative energy at work helping to redefine Pittsburgh’s food and drink scene. 92 Food affair in India Everyone loves Indian food but even the most advanced connoisseurs might find themselves a bit lost when they go out to dine in New Delhi. 96 A guide to the Toronto art scene The art scene is vibrant all over Toronto with over 200 art venues and museums. Here are the top places to hit. 98 Brighton rocks

The art of optimism

his is an art issue but all I want to talk about is the weather as the capital region has had one of the coldest, wettest and most sunless summers in recorded weather history. For Icelanders, optimism could be considered an art form best noticed in our motto “Þetta reddast” which loosely translates to “it will all work out.” It goes a little something like this: In May I thought, “June will be better” and in June I said “oh, July will be great then.” Well, August is drawing nearer as I write this and I can’t help but think, “it can’t get much worse now, can it?” I guess we’ll soon find out. I would happily share this rain and cold with my fellow citizens of the globe who’ve been battling heat, drought and forest fires if only I could. But as this weather seems it just wants to stay close to Iceland, you will need to come here to cool down until I invent my weather-system-moving technology and turn Iceland into the tropical island it was destined to be. There‘s that optimism again.

Enjoy the Icelandic weather, no matter what it throws at you!

Guðrún Vaka Helgadóttir WOW magazine editor-in-chief

azin mag

ART ISSUE

Bites of art: Olafur Eliasson and Victoria Eliasdottir open a temporary restaurant/art space by Grandi Harbor

On the cover POWER TO THE PEOPLE – Issue four 2018

Y O U R F R E E C O P Y -TA K E M E W I T H Y O U

Artist Olafur Eliasson and his sister, Chef Victoria Eliasdottir are joining forces in the opening of their SOE Kitchen 101 in the Marshall-house on Grandi Harbor. It will be a place not just for eating, but for thinking, with artwork by Eliasson installed in the restaurant.

WOW magazine staff Editor in chief: Guðrún Vaka Helgadóttir Design and layout: Ivan Burkni - ivanburkni@gmail.com Proofreading: Paul Michael Herman Contributing writers: Nanna Gunnars, Graeme Green, Christopher Kanal, Eygló Árnadóttir, Shaun Busuttil, Cindy-Lou Dale, Tom O’Connor, Guðrún Baldvina Sævarsdóttir, Nadja Sayej, Svava Jónsdóttir and Ania Neuman.

Attention advertisers! Will your company be in our next issue? Contact our advertising representative and he’ll make it happen. He’s just that good! halli@wow.is

Artist Olafur Eliasson and his sister, Chef Victoria Eliasdottir, are opening a temporary restaurant/art space on Grandi Harbor. Their joint project, SOE Kitchen 101, will be hosted by Marshall Restaurant + Bar from August 11 until October 28. 40 Monumental bureaucracy The Monument to the Unknown Bureaucrat is one of Reykjavík’s most iconic sculptures and one of Magnús Tómasson’s best-known works. 42 The Flying WOW family WOW air’s aircraft have unusual registrations that make them all the more fun. Find out what aircraft you’re on and get to know it a bit better. 46 Nature’s art show Driving around Iceland is one thing, but nothing compares to seeing its volcanic glory from above. A scenic flight over its northern gems from Lake Mývatn is all the convincing you need. 50 A WOW word of advice Knowing how to drive and knowing how to drive in Iceland are two entirely different things. This information just might save your life. 68 WOW me up You can now bid on better seats before getting on your WOW air flight. Find out how. 70 The WOW travel guides Find out what Rob and Brad have been up to since becoming WOW travel guides.

ISSUE FOUR 2018

Plus: Reykjavik Underground Art Scene – Keep your eyes peeled for variety shows, music and art in unusual places.

34 The art of eating

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Brighton’s creative edge is found in The Brighton Lanes which are crammed with wondrous unconventional shops, funky cafes and jazz musicians. 100 Stockholm for a weekend Stockholm is an ideal weekend destination. It has the islands, boats, nature and the “must see” attractions. 102 A guide to classic New York Ask any New Yorker and they’ll tell you that the city ain’t what it used to be. But not everything is gone. Let‘s step back in time to its glory years. 104 The canvas of Cleveland In Cleveland, art appreciation extends beyond the walls of museums. 106 Meet us in St. Louis After watching the iconic Meet me in St. Louis you might want to check out our list of fun things to see and do in the Lou. 108 Best picks at Edinburgh Fringe The program for the annual Edinburgh Fringe Festival, held in August, is the size of a small novel. So what to pick? 110 Chicago! Feel the groove While most cities lure you with their refinement, Chicago whacks you on the head and drags you in. 112 You want more? Where do you want to go? Check out our other WOW destinations.

72 Time for a slow adventure Take your time in the Vatnajokull Region and go on a Slow Adventure to really immerse yourself and reconnect with nature.

116 This and that …mainly this.

76 Getting on good footing Treat your feet and get to know these Icelandic entrepreneurs who are delivering colorful and patterned socks to the people of Iceland.

126 WOW horoscope

78 Instagram arty Want to blow away your Instagram followers with artful photography? Check out these tips and tricks for phone photography. 80 The U.S. Customs Declaration Form What is this? Why do I need to fill it out?

120 What’s going on? …quite a lot, actually. What’s in your future? WOW air’s famed astrologist has the answer. 128 Bored on board? Solve these Sudokus. 130 The Traveling Inquisition Chef Úlfar Finnbjörnsson’s latest book, Taste of Iceland, was recently chosen “best in the world” by the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards.

P.S. Would you like your very own copy of WOW magazine? Take this one with you or contact us through magazine@wow.is and we’ll send you a printed copy. You can also check out WOW magazine online at wowair.com.

WOWAIR.COM © WOW air - Katrínartún 4 - 105 Reykjavík - Iceland Tel: 00 354 590 3020 - E-mail: magazine@wow.is Oddi environmentally certified printing company All rights reserved. Reprinting, direct quoting or recapitulation prohibited except with a written permit from publisher.

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A letter from the CEO Dear friends, Now that the World Cup is over, and of course every Icelander feels like a world champion after we became the smallest nation ever to enter with our amazing football team, we can actually start enjoying the rest of the summer. Actually, the joke in Iceland these days is that the summer came and left last Wednesday... while Europe has enjoyed record heat, Iceland has been left in the cold so we hope you are all on your way here to escape the heat and enjoy the fresh ocean breeze and incredible arts and events currently taking place around the island. Good news is that the Icelandic art, music and culinary scene have never been more active. It is fantastic to witness the endless source of creativity and energy that drive this little country forward. It must come from the clean natural water and endless summer nights mixed with a healthy dose of island euphoria that springs up every summer. One great example is on the cover of this issue as brilliant artist Ólafur Elíasson teams up with his sister to create an incredible pop-up restaurant at Marshall House, where you can enjoy great local art along with some amazing experiences for your taste buds. I hope you enjoy your travel and that we’ll see you all again on board one of our Airbus aircraft. Thank you for choosing WOW air. Sincerely, Skúli Mogensen Founder and CEO of WOW air

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www.intotheglacier.is Issue four 15

Of the charts art

Reykjavík underground art scene Chances are if you are coming to Iceland that you have your vacation planned out around sightseeing, exploring the nature and countryside and perhaps taking part in some adventurous activity or two. If you’re spending some time in Reykjavík, it will likely only be in the evenings, and besides looking up some of the best restaurants and bars to go to, you may not have a clue of what else there is to do in the evenings. by Nanna Gunnars Photos: Courtesy of respective art groups and iStockphoto.com

lso, you may not have given much thought to what entertainment there is during those bright nights when it just seems impossible to sleep with the sun still high in the sky around midnight. Many visitors may have heard about Iceland’s rich music scene, with the likes of Björk and Sigur Rós becoming world famous, but they are likely to be touring the world and unless you’re very lucky, not readily available with a concert for you during your holiday. PARTY ALL WEEK LONG Thankfully, Reykjavík’s art scene is booming, and if you dig a little into it, you’ll find a plethora of entertainment options. In fact, for such a small country the music scene is off the charts, making it hard to go downtown in Reykjavík and not bump into some live music, any day of the week. There are weekly jazz sessions on Sundays (Bryggjan Brewery), Mondays (Húrra), Tuesdays (Kex Hostel) and Wednesdays (Peterson Suite or Múlinn Jazz Club at Harpa Concert Hall). There are several music festivals, both big and small, but perhaps the most interesting one for the underground scene is the Battle of the Bands or Icelandic Music Experiments (Músíktilraunir).

In recent years the comedy scene has been blossoming in Reykjavík, and nowadays you can find weekly stand-up gigs and improv shows.

year, and the entry fee is a mere 1500-2000 ISK. Most of their shows are held in Icelandic, although they are so visually entertaining that you don’t necessarily have to know what’s being said to get a laugh out of it. And from time to time they do offer shows in English, such as during their annual Improv Festival (March or April) and in the summertime. Every Monday night you can find stand-up comedy performed in English at Gaukurinn, with free entry, hosted by Goldengang Comedy. Additionally, there are regular stand up shows in Icelandic, as well as big international names that come to perform in Iceland. BLOSSOMING VARIETY SCENE Not only has the comedy scene been blossoming, but also the drag and cabaret scene. Drag-súgur is Iceland’s biggest “drag troupe” and has been performing monthly at Gaukurinn since November 2015. It’s become so big and popular that it has given birth to another drag show, Drag Lab. The Icelandic drag scene contains a mixture of nationalities and is often hosted by Australian comedian Jono Duffy, making it very accessible to an international audience. The same goes for the Reykjavík cabaret scene, where the most established group is Reykjavík Kabarett who frequently import guest performers from around the world and have strong ties with the New York cabaret scene. They also collaborate with Iceland’s drag

This annual music competition for teenagers and young people (from 13-25 years old) takes place in March and has been running since 1982. This is the root of the Icelandic music scene, where the winners often find success afterward. This is, for example, where Of Monsters and Men was discovered—the winners of the 2010 competition. During the summer the newly crowned winners also tend to play at plenty of gigs around town, so keep your eyes out for small gigs in dark bars. A BIT OF LAUGHTER But Iceland’s art scene isn’t solely about the music. In recent years the comedy scene has been blossoming in Reykjavík, and nowadays you can find weekly stand-up gigs and improv shows. Improv Iceland has weekly shows throughout most of the

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Icelandic music is great, but unfortunately you won’t find Sigur Ros playing here every night.

The Reykjavik Kabarett shows have become very popular and sell out fast. Photo: Kaspar Bekeris

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Of the charts art

Reykjavik Kabarett. Photo: Leifur Wilberg Orrason

artists and circus performers, and like Drag-súgur, have given birth to another cabaret group named Ladies & a Gentleman (Dömur og herra). And did you catch the bit about the circus performers? Yes, although Iceland is only a country of 350,000 inhabitants, an Icelandic Circus exists—Sirkús Íslands. The circus often tours the country during the warmer summer months, mainly performing in their own custom-made circus tent so you might even catch them in a tiny village in the countryside. SMALL BUT GRAND The beautiful thing about Reykjavík and its art scene is that it’s small, so all the artists in the underground art scene know one another, and frequently collaborate in creating some truly great entertainment. You can see musicians, burlesque dancers, magicians, aerial acts, painters, tarot readers and circus performers mingle with some of Iceland’s best poets and authors in the quarterly Reykjavík Poetry Brothel, held at IÐNÓ.

Miss Encircled performs at several variety shows such as Reykjavik Kabarett, Sirkús Íslands and the Poetry Brothel. Photo: Geiri X

The beautiful thing about Reykjavík and its art scene is that it’s small, so all the artists in the underground art scene know one another, and frequently collaborate in creating some truly great entertainment.

Guests could enjoy short films, gallery openings, installations, theater (including both physical theater performances, interactive ones and virtual reality theater), dance pieces, live music of all genres, drag, cabaret, poetry and comedy or partake in workshops. If you want to find out more, head over to Tjarnarbíó in Reykjavík’s center for independent theater, join a class at the friendly Kramhúsið studio or check out the newly opened Dance Atelier.

And the standard is high, as newcomers to the art scene can fairly easily perform with some of the greatest artists in the country, and then no-one wants to be outshined! This is just the top of the iceberg. Last July Reykjavík Fringe Festival was held for the first time where more than 50 mostly Icelandic artists and groups performed.

Poetry reading and variety are the key ingredients to the popularity of the Rauða Skáldahúsið Poetry Brothel’s quarterly events. Photo: Geiri X

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During the summer in Reykjavik you can expect to see art in unexpected places, such as this photography exhibit on Skolavordustigur Street. Photo: iStockphoto / RnDmS

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by Graeme Green Photos by Antony Spencer

ANTONY SPENCER

AN ORIGINAL PERSPECTIVE Whether chasing storms, working in ice and snow, or riding helicopters over the wilds of Iceland, award-winning English photographer Antony Spencer has made a career by pushing boundaries to produce spectacularly beautiful and original landscape photos.

idiculously exciting” is how landscape photographer Antony Spencer describes exploring the wild, untouched landscapes of Iceland. While flying in a helicopter to create photos that are unique and otherworldly, the hardest part, he admits, is not getting so distracted by the beauty that you forget to take any pictures. But staying focused in challenging circumstances is something Spencer is a master at. Searching for original landscapes and perspectives also sees him working in freezing tem peratures in the Arctic, chasing storms across the plains of America or tracking wildlife in Yellowstone, Spitsbergen and the Maasai Mara.

Q: You’ve photographed Iceland many times. Is it a country you have a close relationship with?

The English photographer, based in Dorset, won the prestigious Landscape Photographer of the Year Award back in 2010. Since then, he’s been traveling the world, leading photography tours and workshops with the company Light & Land (www.lightandland.co.uk) to adventurous destinations, including Iceland, Namibia, Scotland and Norway.

Winter is fabulous because you get the Northern Lights and amazing wintry landscapes. And summer is amazing when the snow starts to recede.

Here, he talks about photographing Iceland from above, being obsessive, and what sets a great photo apart.

Q: Do you have a favorite landscape to photograph?

A: Absolutely! Iceland is such an incredible country with all its geo thermal landscapes and its volcanic nature. I’ve been there more than 30 times and there is still so much more to discover.

A: My favorite place in the whole of Iceland is Hveravellir and the Land mannalaugar mountains. So many places in the Highlands are fantastic. ADRENALINE RUSH! Q: Iceland is incredibly popular with landscape photographers. Is it still possible to find empty landscapes?

Antony Spencer guides photography tours and workshops with Light & Land to Iceland, Kenya, Norway, USA, Namibia and locations in the UK, including Skye, Cornwall and Dorset. For details, see www.lightandland.co.uk. The company is celebrating its 25th anniversary in 2018 with the publication of a limited edition book, Evolving Landscapes, featuring photos by Antony Spencer, Joe Cornish, Charlie Waite, Valda Bailey and other Light & Land photographers. See www.lightandland.co.uk/25-year-anniversary for details.

A: It definitely is, but it depends on the time of the year. If you go in the middle of summer, it’s much more difficult, but even in a 4X4 you can drive into remote places in the Highland and find yourself in an environment where you feel like you’re the only person there. Having the experience to know where to go and when is pretty key if you want to get into an area with no one else and start taking photos away from the surge of tourists.

Q: The photography tours you guide in Iceland cover traditional land scape photography but also aerial photography from a helicopter. Is that an adrenaline rush? A: Yes, but it can be distracting, so you have to get over just how incredibly beautiful what you’re flying over is in order to make photographs without just being blown away by it all. That happened to me the first few times I went flying. SPOTTING PATTERNS Q: How is the aerial approach different from traditional landscape photography? Are you looking more for patterns? A: Absolutely! Things like river deltas become amazing abstracts from above. Flying over, I’m looking for patterns, then trying to capture some form of balance within the pattern to make a lovely photograph. Besides abstracts, you can also do bigger landscape views by using the helicopter’s aerial perspective. Q: Which areas of Iceland look best from a helicopter? My favorite area is the river deltas on the south coast. They start an hour from Reykjavík and continue on from there. They look incredible. A FOCUSED EDUCATION Q: You guide photography workshops with Light & Land in locations around the world. How hard is it to teach someone the necessary skills? Issue four 21

THINGS LIKE RIVER DELTAS BECOME AMAZING ABSTRACTS FROM ABOVE. FLYING OVER, Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;M LOOKING FOR PATTERNS, THEN TRYING TO CAPTURE SOME FORM OF BALANCE WITHIN THE PATTERN TO MAKE A LOVELY PHOTOGRAPH.

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ANTONY SPENCER A: You can teach a great deal. It’s important to work with each individual photographer separately. Every person has a completely different “eye.” It’s important to teach how to be creative and follow one’s vision to make the pictures you want to make. Q: Your work was on show at the OXO Gallery in London in July. What do you think sets a great landscape photo apart? A: Originality is a huge thing. Today, there are so many people who can produce world-class photos,

but, to me, very few people are doing anything really original. It’s about trying to put your own spin on things, finding new locations and treading your own path, rather than following the trend. HAPPY HARDCORE Q: Do you need to be obsessive, getting up early, being outside in any weather, waiting patiently for the right conditions? A: Yes. Quite often, I actually think the more severe the weather, the better it is. Really stormy atmospheric conditions can throw up the best light.

Light & Land tour I do. You’re pretty much up at the North Pole at that point. Q: Do you enjoy photographing the Northern Lights? A: I’ve spent hundreds of nights shooting the Northern Lights and I’ve loved it every time. You never know what you’re going to get. Sometimes the forecast is for nothing to happen and there’s an incredible display. You always have to be ready. Q: Which is the best country for Northern Lights?

My favorite thing is storm-chasing, which I take tours to do in the US. To be around those really severe thunderstorms is just incredible, partly because of the atmosphere and the experience of being there, but also because of the light.

A: The whole of Scandinavia has been absolutely fantastic. The Norwegian coast and inland, Sweden, the far north of Finland and Iceland all have incredible Northern Lights.

It’s a hardcore thing to do. We end up driving from one state to the next, Colorado, Kansas, Oklahoma, Texas… following weather patterns across the plains, taking photos of every big thunderstorm we can find. It’s an experience I adore.

Q: You’ve started photographing wildlife more, too. Do you find it as satisfying as landscapes?

CHILLING OUT Q: You also spend a lot of time in ice, snow and Arctic landscapes. Do those places have difficult conditions to work in? A: At times, yes. There have been times in Sweden and in Yellowstone in the US where the temperature has gone down to minus 40°C and your camera starts to freeze up. Working in the Arctic is challenging, especially when we get really far north like we do up in Spitsbergen, another

WILD AT HEART

A: Yes. It just comes down to a love for everything in nature. Having wildlife in its natural habitat and context is what appeals to me. Q: Do you have a favorite location for wildlife photography? A: Being in Kenya and seeing African wildlife is incredible. Being in Yellowstone and watching wolves hunting bison in mid-winter, the chase across the plains, and seeing them fight back or form a circle around their young, is also amazing. With wildlife, as with landscapes, it’s about being ready to capitalize on incredible moments when they happen. I love that approach.

MY FAVORITE PLACE IN THE WHOLE OF ICELAND IS HVERAVELLIR AND THE LANDMANNALAUGAR MOUNTAINS. SO MANY PLACES IN THE HIGHLANDS ARE FANTASTIC.

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Issue four 25

BERG CONTEMPORARY Klapparstígur 16 101 Reykjavík Iceland

Colorful artwork by Kees Visser from an exhibition at Hotel Missa, Paris (2007).

Gallery love

BERG Contemporary BERG Contemporary is a commercial gallery located in an old glass factory on Klapparstígur. The gallery aims to reflect the international landscape of today’s art world in addition to honoring and focusing on some of art history’s greatest innovators. The gallery’s artist roster comprises a variety of Icelandic and international artists from established pioneers such as Steina and Woody Vasulka to emerging artists such as Dodda Maggý and Páll Haukur Björnsson. Since its inception in 2016, BERG Contemporary has regularly mounted museum-quality exhibitions, and this year is starting to build a new multimedia exhibition space as an addition to the existing one. Photos: Courtesy of BERG Contemporary

OPENING HOURS 11 am – 5 pm Tuesday to Friday 1 pm – 5 pm Saturday and by appointment

n August 17th the gallery will open an exhibition of paintings by the Dutch artist Kees Visser (b. 1948). In the 1970s Visser came into contact with Icelandic artists and for the next twenty years spent most of his time in Iceland. In the mid-1990s during a residency in Paris, he began to develop the monochrome paintings with a crystalline surface for which he is best known today. In his exhibition at BERG Contemporary, Visser will be presenting new works painted during his most recent stay in Iceland along with a selection of his older pieces. Visitors can expect to see works that can appear entirely minimalistic at first but gradually reveal their layered complexity with each viewing. As Halldór Björn Runólfsson put it in his 2013 essay on Visser, “Whoever gets to know the art of Kees Visser is bound to stumble across some piece of his work that demands to be thought about as well as experienced.” In October BERG Contemporary will be presenting an exhibition by another innovator in the field of monochrome painting who also happens to have a strong connection to Iceland, American painter John Zurier (b. 1956). Zurier paints abstract paintings in which the color and surface invoke the atmosphere and mood of places and times—seen and unseen, past and future. The paintings offer a maximal sense of color, light and space with simple and direct means. Or as he frames it himself in discussion with Jason Stopa in Art in America Magazine, “I am looking for a light that is in the back of my mind. It’s something I have seen that defies articulation. It’s precise and it’s fragile, and I never know when it will appear. I am interested in the gap between abstraction and evocation, between what is determinate and indeterminate, direct and suggested.”

For more information about the gallery and its artists please visit www.bergcontemporary.is

In October BERG Contemporary will be presenting an exhibition by another innovator in the field of monochrome painting who also happens to have a strong connection to Iceland, American painter John Zurier (b. 1956).

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Issue four 27

Reykjavik Museum

Ásmundarsafn Sigtúni 105 Reykjavík

Ásmundarsafn Museum

Designed by sculptor Ásmundur Sveinsson (1893-1982), this unique building now serves as a part of Reykjavik Art Museum known as Ásmundarsafn. Its location at the edge of Laugardalur Valley makes it a popular stop for locals and visitors as it is perfect stop nearby Reykjavik’s biggest thermal pool, botanic garden and the Reykjavik Park and Zoo. Photos: Courtesy of Ásmundarsafn / Reykjavik Art Museum

smundarsafn is dedicated to showcasing artwork by its namesake Ásmundur Sveins son (1893-1982), who designed and built the house, lived and worked there until his death. Ásmundur bequeathed a large portion of his work to the city of Reykjavik along with the building, which became a collection of Reykjavík Art Museum in 1983. The collection spans his entire artistic career and shows how his work evolved and changed over his long life. Works by other artists are regularly featured at the museum too, especially those who hold a refrence to Ásmundur’s work. An extensive Ásmundur Sveinsson retrospective, Art for the People, opened at the museum in May 2017. The exhibition presents Ásmundur Sveins son’s oeuvre in an innovative manner. After being on view for almost a year, the museum introduced four insertions into the exhibition. The insertions, or a series of annotated exhibitions entitled Invasion, feature four contemporary artists independently. Each artist will insert their work into Art for the

THE MODERN SCULPTOR One of the pioneers of sculpturing in Iceland, Ás mundur’s art usually wasn’t favorably received in the past but with time it has gained recognition as the manifestation of Icelandic storytelling, comm unity and nature in the 20th century. After studying abroad, in Copenhagen, Stockholm and Paris, he moved back home in 1929 and began producing a series of abstracted figurative works. His themes were often men and women at work and included such pieces as The Blackmith (by Snorrabraut Street), The Washer Woman (at the Laugardalur botanical garden) and The Water Carrier (on the corner of Lækjargata and Bankastræti). During the 1940s Ásmundur’s work Ásmundur Sveinsson.

People to create dialogues with Ásmundur’s sculptures. Invasion II by Hrafnhildur Arnardóttir/ Shoplifter comes to an end on August 12th and will be followed by sculptor Mattías Rúnar Sigurðsson’s Invasion III that will open on August 18th.

24 types OF ICELANDIC beer

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Ásmundur bequeathed a large portion of his work to the city of Reykjavik along with the building, which became a collection of Reykjavík Art Museum in 1983.

moved farther away from the human and animal form and by the 1950 he was producing work that was almost entirely abstract. Ásmundur drew upon the traditions of Icelandic literature and folktales in is work. Famous works based on this theme are for example Trollwoman, Head Ransom and Sæmundur and the Seal, which is situated in front of the main building of the University of Iceland in Reykjavik. ART FOR THE PUBLIC Ásmundur’s sculptures can be found all over Reykjavik and that is fitting as he believed in placing works of art not only in the hands of a

small elite, but also making them accessible to the public. He was called the “folk poet” of visual art, and without a doubt that ideal arose from his philosophy no less than from the tradition of sculpture. Many of his pieces were conceived as a part of public space, an integral part of the surroundings, or were developed as design and craft works. The inside of the Ásmundarsafn Museum building offers a unique experience as the artist’s design, inspired by vernacular Mediterranean architecture, is a stand-alone work of art. Sveinsson’s work is often exhibited in there along with the works of other modern or contemporary artists. In the museum’s sculpture

garden you’ll find some of Ásmundur’s biggest and most wonderful outdoor sculptures. Don’t miss out on this great museum while in Reykjavik. Head to the outskirts of the Laugardalur Valley. An easy way to get there from the city center is by WOW citybike as there are two bike stations near the museum.

Ásmundarsafn Sigtún, 105 Reykjavik artmuseum.is/asmundarsafn Summer opening hours: Daily, from 10am - 5pm

KEF airport is the busy place to be. You can choose between 24 different types of beer, leaf through hundreds of magazines, go for hot coffee (or cold), or even take a shower. Be fashionably early.

W W W. K E FA I R P O R T. I S

Issue four 29

Give back to Icelandic nature

HOW YOUR CHANGE COULD MAKE A BIG CHANGE Phenomenal nature is the top reason for visiting Iceland but Icelandic nature is fragile and could use a little help. For this reason, WOW air wants to offer you the chance to give back to nature by donating directly to Landvernd, Iceland´s largest environmental NGO, which will put your coins to good use. Photos: Courtesy of Kristján Ingi Einarsson – www.kristjaningi.is

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Discount for your journey The Arion Currency Card is a better way to pay in Iceland, providing you with a wide range of discounts all around the country as well as a SIM card and Icelandic mobile number for your phone. · Great discounts on popular excursions, in gift shops and at selected restaurants, fashion shops, hotels etc. · Save money – You don‘t have to pay international card transaction fees · No need to worry about the currency rate · No need to carry Icelandic krónur in your wallet · Use it everywhere – The Currency Card is accepted in Iceland and internationally Get your Currency Card at Arion Bank in Keflavík Airport, or the next Arion Bank branch. Currencycard.is

Get your Currency Card at the next Arion Bank branch.

Issue four 31

Give back to Icelandic nature

HOW CAN I HELP? In the seat pocket in front of you, there’s an envelope where you can leave any foreign change or leftover currency that you would like to contribute. Your donations will be sent directly to Landvernd, the Icelandic Environment Association, who will use the funds to support its efforts to safeguard and protect Icelandic nature. WOW air is simply the means of transportation. The donations come from you, our guest, and go straight to Landvernd. Let’s all help Landvernd make sure that Icelandic nature will still be as incredible when the grandkids come to visit. WHAT IS LANDVERND? Landvernd is a non-profit environmental and nature conservation organization, established in 1969. Its main goals are to protect Iceland’s nature and environment, restore degraded environments and promote sustainability in Iceland among residents and visitors alike. This is done through education, by influencing lawmaking and decision making and by taking action. PROTECTING THE LARGEST UNTAMED WILDERNESS IN EUROPE Landvernd’s biggest conservation goal at the moment is the establishment of a national park in the Central Highland of Iceland. The Central Highland is one of Iceland’s greatest treasures, containing many active volcanoes, glaciers, voluminous rivers and waterfalls, colorful hot springs and mud pools. There are

WOW air is simply the means of transportation. The donations come from you, our guests, and go straight to Landvernd where they will be put to good use.

vast lava fields and broad expanses of black sand, all contrasted with oases of vibrant but vulnerable vegetation. Such an amazing collection of natural jewels is rare in the world mainly because such vast, unpopulated areas where nature alone rules, are disappearing. You can see short videos of the stunning Highland and sign the petition online to urge lawmakers in Iceland to designate the amazing, untamed Highland as a national park at www. halendid.is

Landvernd’s biggest conserva tion goal at the moment is the establishment of a national park in Iceland‘s Central Highland. LET’S DO IT WORLD! Would you like to live on a clean planet? Did you know that almost 20 million volunteers have already been cleaning up in 120 countries? So, what’s going on? It all started in Estonia, in 2008, when a civic-led mass movement called Let’s do it! united 50,000 people to clean up the entire country in just one day. Since then, the model has spread around the world and on 15th of September, 2018, there are 150 countries planning the biggest World Cleanup Day the world has ever seen. Iceland will, of course, participate in this event and Landvernd is part of the organizing team. The overall goal is to engage 5% of the world’s population.

And this is not just a random number. This number, 5%, represents the estimated amount of people necessary to create lasting change through just one day of incredible activism. On September 15th, we will wake up in the morning in New Zealand, finish off the day in Hawaii, and at the end of it, we’ll have changed the world. Simple!

Photographer Kristján Ingi Einarsson was so inspired by this project he decided to let us use his gorgeous photographs for this article in addition to personally donating to Landvernd 5% of the sales from his latest photography book, Unique Iceland, available at most bookstores in Iceland. Big thanks from all of us to Kristján Ingi!

Join us, either here in Iceland, or in your home country. Every person can make a difference. More at www.letsdoitworld.org Thank you for your contribution toward protecting Icelandic nature. Now get out there and enjoy it!

Read more about Landvernd and its efforts to protect Icelandic nature by visiting their website, www.Landvernd.is

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ICELAND CARBON FUND

10:00 13:00

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Olafur Eliasson, Leifur Kolbeinsson and Victoria Eliasdรณttir, SOE KITCHEN 101, Reykjavik, Iceland. Photo: Ari Magg

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eating The art of

Olafur Eliasson and Victoria Eliasdottir

“Puffins versus wolves but all in all it’s a very sweet fairytale.” It is the morning after Iceland exited the World Cup 2018 following defeat to Croatia in Rostov and artist Olafur Eliasson is reflecting on the previous night’s drama from his Berlin studio. The acclaimed Danish-Icelandic artist is upbeat. For Eliasson, Iceland’s short campaign was something very special in the history of the tournament. “It actually changes football a little bit and showed that non-quantifiable talents such as social cohesion, spirit and commitment actually matter a lot. The Icelandic team brought back the human perspective.” by Christopher Kanal Photos: Ari Magg and Maria del Pilar Garcia Ayensa courtesy of Studio Olafur Eliasson

est known for “The Weather Project,” his dazzling sun installation at London Tate Modern’s Turbine Hall in 2003 and “The New York City Water falls” in 2008 and more recently for the design of the striking facade of the Harpa Concert Hall in Reykjavík, the prolific artist is also an avowed foodie; so much so that his vast Berlin studio has a professional kitchen with four cooks to feed the 100-odd studio members—and where his younger sister, Chef Victoria Eliasdottir, has been oper ating food-related projects and events for the last three years. Eliasson’s focus is now on a new project in Reykjavík, one which he is jointly running with his sister. The siblings are opening a temporary restaurant/art space in Grandi by the city’s harbor. Hosted by the Marshall Restaurant + Bar, Studio Olafur Eliasson (SOE) Kitchen 101 arrives on 11 August for a three-month stint until 28 October. SOUL KITCHEN The roots of SOE Kitchen 101 stretch back to Eliasson’s Berlin studio, a converted brewery in Berlin’s Prenzlauer Berg. “The experimental kitchen is very much part of the life of the studio where we get very involved in questions about food, how we

eat, the eating ritual, sustainability, climate, health and so on,” he says. Eliasson wants the SOE Kitchen in Reykjavík not just to be a place for eating but for thinking. He has a small studio next door and his artwork will be installed in the rest aurant that will also include a long table for a convivial touch. “I love this idea of sitting and dining together at a long table where you might break bread with people who you do not necessarily know. Icelanders generally are very straightforward and easy to engage with so I expect it can work well,” Eliasson says before adding that some might prefer to dip their toes first before jumping in. “Perhaps people would need to come a few times before they feel comfortable.” SOE Kitchen 101 is not just a culinary experiment but a social one too. While the SOE Kitchen in Berlin prepares organic, vegetarian meals only, its Reykjavik cousin will take advantage of its location at the harbor to offer fresh local seafood and fish. The restaurant will serve a set meal of the day for lunch and a dinner menu in the evenings. Evening events will include concerts, live performances and poetry readings. “Really great food always has a fric tional element because it reminds

you of all the not so great food you have eaten,” Eliasson says. “Good food is always on a trajectory and a journey. A great cook shapes a taste just as an artist shapes a sculpture. In that way, great cooking is a very sensual, almost alchemic activity.” Eliasson has been intrigued by the link between food and happiness: “this notion of grounded-ness that you are kind of touching the world when you eat something healthy and well cooked,” he explains. “Suddenly you feel that you are in contact with your surroundings. I am very curious about how we can get closer to the world where we live rather than escaping from it.”

COUNTING SHEEP During the financial crisis, Eliasson had an idea that he could save the Icelandic economy by buying all the grey sheep running around the country. Grey sheep are less popular than black or white sheep with farmers as their wool is less sought after and they are harder to spot in the autumn when they are rounded up and brought down from high mountain pastures. The greys resemble rocks or dirt. “As an idea, a grey sheep is indecisive, it is a ‘making your mind as you go kind of sheep,’” he says with a bit of mischief. Eliasson’s fondness for plucky grey sheep is such that he named a

The Marshall House is a proud building on the Grandi Harbor. Photo: Einar Geir

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Olafur Eliasson and Victoria Eliasdottir

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gallery space after them. “Nobody ever knew when it was open or closed,” he laughs. Eliasson’s plan was to farm these lesser-known sheep in the harsher northern fjords where they would graze on wild berries and grasses. “The texture of their meat is a lot darker, like deer,” he enthuses and says that he envisaged making his own version of blood sausage (traditional Icelandic sausage akin to haggis) but with a North African twist adding dates, onions, raisins and truffle oil. “People thought I was insane,” he says. “I guess Icelanders are not so much into North African food considering the history of the pirate raids (‘Tyrkjaránið’ by the Barbary corsairs) on the Vestmanna eyjar Islands. That was the end of my economic fairy tale but I tell you this sausage was amazing!” DOTTIR “This is kind of a profession you end up in,” Eliasdottir tells me, “as I kinda did.” Then she adds, “No, I kinda didn’t.” Born in Denmark but raised in Icel and from the age of one-and-a-half, Eliasdóttir grew up with food. The sibling’s father was a chef who worked in restaurants in Copenhagen. On their return to Iceland, he continued to work as a chef on fishing boats while being an active artist. After traveling around South America in 2007, Eliasdottir returned to Ice land and went to college. “I was told that being a chef was hard on your body, that it’s not family-friendly and often buzzing with drinks and drugs,” she says. “I tried to do anything else but cook; I took graphic design and psychology. I started all these things but always ended up talking about food, telling my classmates and teachers about what I cooked yesterday—what I was going to cook tomorrow. In the end, one of my classmates said ‘Why don’t you just give in?’” Eliasdottir went to a chef’s school in Reykjavík and initially found it tough: “My first experience of being a chef was not very charming. On the other hand, I have always been drawn to things that somehow kick up the adrenaline.” After graduation, she worked as a head chef at a small summer hotel in the countryside in southern Iceland. It’s an idyllic place by a lake filled with wild trout and which grew its own tomatoes and cucumbers. There followed a stint at Chez Panisse in California under the eyes of culinary visionary Alice Waters before Eliasdottir ended up in Berlin where she helped run her big brother’s studio kitchen. Wild caught trout, black venere rice and white currants, tomato salad. Photo: Maria del Pilar Garcia Ayensa / Studio Olafur Eliasson

Slow cooked beetroot with soy cured egg yolk, smoked cheese and horseradish. Photo: Maria del Pilar Garcia Ayensa / Studio Olafur Eliasson

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Olafur Eliasson and Victoria Eliasdottir In 2015 she opened Dottir, a temp orary restaurant in Berlin’s Mitte that occupied a building which was formerly a Stasi surveillance center back in the days of the DDR. Dottir was a hit with sublime dishes such as beet-cured salmon with horseradish served raw and Baltic cod with Jerusalem artichoke and beach herbs. Condé Nast Traveler hailed Elasdottir as one of the “10 Young Chefs to Watch in 2016.” Eliasdottir also catered for high-end corporate events. She recently created a seven-course vegetarian menu for a global auto mobile company. “Such groups are rather skeptical when it comes to vegetarian meals, but afterward the satisfaction was on both sides: the diners felt their needs and senses were fulfilled and I’m happy I managed to bend the idea of a seven-course high-end dinner experience.”

pm to save energy, announcing the blackout by ringing the church bells. Eliasson fondly remembers the long shadows and dense colors of the long, haunting twilights that were the only source of light. This influence can be seen in his work such as “The Weather Project” that imitated a gargantuan artificial sun using mirrors and mist machines. Among the sketches, models and the large collection of vintage light bulbs in Eliasson’s studio, there is an archer’s target perforated with arrows. Often, for inspiration Eliasson shoots an arrow into it. A bullseye marks a “Yes” and reveals Eliasson’s methodical and impactfocused approach to his work. A keen environmental advocate, he once brought ice from Greenland to melt in Copenhagen for a work dramatizing climate change. His

“Little Sun” is a humanitarian social enterprise that provides clean, affordable solar energy and light to thousands of people around the globe through LED solar-powered lamps. For Eliasson, the environment in which we all live and how we interact with it and with each other is inextricably linked to what we eat. “Food is a universal thing,” he says. “Where there is food there is a ritual. Food is at the center of questions of quality. When you touch food, you touch the world.

Check out SOE KITCHEN 101 at the Marshall House on Grandi Harbor. For reservations call +354 519 7766, email to info@marshallrestaurant.is or go to www.marshallrestaurant.is.

Avoiding the tired New Nordic cuisine label often employed by critics the world over, the heart of her cooking is avowedly rooted in Scandinavian gastronomy. Think simple: fresh seafood, herbs and regional, seasonal produce. “We have great farmers here,” says Eliasdottir. “During these last five years that I have not lived in Iceland, there has been an awakening regarding what you are eating and how it is sourced.”

“I was told that being a chef was hard on your body, that it’s not family-friendly and often buzzing with drinks and drugs,” Victoria says.

SOE Kitchen 101 is Eliasdottir’s first project in Reykjavik. “It has been in the back of my mind to do a project here,” the chef reveals. “For me, it’s the perfect opportunity and a test at the same time. Cooking for Icelanders and getting their feedback is very exciting for me.” She does not rule out something more permanent if the project goes well. “I would love to have a place in Reykjavik one day,” she says. Dottir restaurant might also return to Berlin “but for now” Eliasdottir tells me, “it’s too early to plan my future projects.”

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Photo: Tate Photography (Andrew Dunkley & Marcus Leith)

WE ARE WHAT WE EAT As a child during the long summer holidays, Eliasson returned to Iceland to spend time with his grandparents. The Icelandic land scape has been a lasting source of inspiration to him, particularly in its unique power to challenge how, as an artist, you interpret place and space through its beautiful yet unfamiliar and primal character. Eliasson tells me he likes to sit in his studio in Reykjavík for inspiration because of the extraordinary quality of light in Iceland which stems from the island’s high latitude. As a boy, he recalls that during the oil crisis of the 70s, the Icelandic government used to switch the power off at 8

The Weather Project (2003)

Photo: Courtesy of Studio Olafur Eliasson

Proudly Making Iceland a Hot Destination. We could talk forever about how interesting our clean energy production at Hellisheidi is. But, instead, let’s see what some of our guests at the Geothermal Exhibition have to say on TripAdvisor: “A must see activity”, “Bucket List”, “... interactive and inspiring”, “Now I’m impressed!”

ENNEMM / SÍA /

N M 76 5 3 5

We hope to welcome you too on your trip to Iceland at the most powerful exhibition in the world.

Only 20 min. drive from Reykjavík. A perfect stop on your way to or from the city.

The exhibition is open every day from 9:00-17:00. Please direct any inquiries to exhibition@on.is Tel: (+354) 591 2880 www.geothermalexhibition.com Issue four 39

Art around town

Monumental bureaucracy The Monument to the Unknown Bureaucrat is one of Reykjavík’s most iconic sculptures and one of Magnús Tómasson’s best-known works. Sardonic as well as profound, the 1993 sculpture is located on the bank of the Reykjavík Pond, between Iðnó Theater and City Hall. It has become an unmissable landmark of the old city center and is loved by locals and visitors alike. by Halla Oddny Magnúsdóttir Photos: Jóhanna Ólafsdóttir

cquired by the City of Reykjavík in 1993, the idea behind the work stems from the artist’s fascination with memorials to unknown soldiers, found in many cities throughout the militarized world. “Iceland has no army, but plenty of bureaucrats,” said the artist on the work’s original conception, “and I felt that the foot soldiers of government administration, those nameless, faceless agents who nevertheless exert great influence on the destinies of regular people, deserved a monument, too.” A sculpture of bronze and basalt about two meters high, the work was originally meant to stand on a footpath on the western slope of Arnarhóll Hill, which would have been a fitting location, given its close proximity to major administrative buildings. This, however, did not come to pass. Documents discovered in the Reykjavík City Archives by administrative staff revealed that city officials had agreed never to place another work of art on Arnarhóll in 1926, when the statue at its hilltop, Einar Jónsson’s bronze of Reykjavík’s first settler Ingólfur Arnarson, was donated to the city by the Reykjavík Craftsmen’s Guild. WADING THROUGH THE RED TAPE The Monument to the Unknown Bureaucrat was therefore placed in a garden in between Lækjargata and Pósthússtræti, behind the historic Hótel Borg. Plans had been made to open up this space to pedestrian traffic between Austurstræti and Austurvöllur, but those plans eventually came to nothing. As a result, The Monument to the Unknown Bureaucrat stood for nearly twenty years in a nondescript backyard in the city center. Despite its obscure location, the sculpture gained many faithful admirers, who regarded the artwork as one of the city’s best-kept secrets. At the beginning of 2012, Hafþór Yngvason, then director of the National Gallery of Iceland, suggested to the city council that the sculpture be moved to a more appropriate location, near the City Hall. The proposal was enthusiastically received by the ruling majority in the city council, and plans

The Monument to the Unknown Bureaucrat was therefore placed in a garden in between Lækjargata and Pósthússtræti, behind the historic Hótel Borg. Plans had been made to open up this space to pedestrian traffic between Austurstræti and Austurvöllur, but those plans eventually came to nothing.

Artist Magnús Tómasson and then Mayor of Reykjavik, Jón Gnarr, at the monument's new location unveiling in 2012.

were made accordingly. Finally, on 14 September 2012, Jón Gnarr, then Mayor of Reykjavík, unveiled the monument in its new location. All in all, the fate of Magnús Tómasson’s Monument to the Unknown Bureaucrat curiously reflects the work’s very subject: The unpredictable workings of bureaucracy and its many unknown foot soldiers. But all is well that ends well. The Monument to the Unknown Bureaucrat has already established itself as an unmissable landmark on the banks of The Reykjavík Pond and is visited by a large number of people every day. CONTEMPLATING THE HUMAN CONDITION Born in 1943 in Reykjavík, visual artist Magnús Tómasson has had a long and distinguished career ever since his first solo exhibition in the National Museum of Iceland in 1962, at the age of 19. Magnús’ works have been featured in numerous solo and collective exhibitions at all major art institutes in Iceland, as well as abroad, e.g. in Denmark, Germany and Japan. He has received various awards and honors for his art and was the first artist to receive the title “Reykjavík City Artist” in 1981. Magnús’ works vary in size and method, spanning everything from delicate “visual poetry” works made of paper to colossal outdoor sculptures made with metal and rock, along with more traditional oil painting and graphic works. Despite their diverse appearance, his works all share his trademark qualities: A playful imagination, ingenuity in handling space and matter, a unique and often wry sense of humor and abundant poetic references to mythology, philosophy and history. His art is therefore never simply pleasing to the eye, but rather prompts the viewer to contemplate some aspect of the human condition. Magnús’ works can be found in the permanent collections of both the National Gallery of Iceland and the Reykjavík Art Museum, while many of his prominent outdoor sculptures are well known to most Icelanders—among them The Jet Nest, located in front of the main building at Keflavík Airport, and the Monument to the Unknown Bureaucrat, which stands by Reykjavík City Hall. Get your own bureaucrat! The Monument to the Unknown Bureaucrat is now available as a miniature in two sizes, designed by Helga Gerður Magnúsdóttir, daughter of Magnús Tómasson. You will find them in the museum shops at the National Gallery of Iceland and Reykjavik Art Museum and design store Epal, located both at Harpa Concert Hall and Laugavegur 70 in downtown Reykjavik.

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THIS IS IT 2017 WELCOME

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MEMBER OF ICEWHALE – THE ICELANDIC WHALE WATCHING ASSOCIATION

The WOW Fleet Paint the sky purple Unlike most airlines, WOW air chooses the registration names of each aircraft very carefully and not according to standard practices of the alphabet. We like our registration names to be fun as they Ârepresent us in a big way. Every family is unique, and our growing WOW family of Airbus aircraft is no exception. Take a look. Photos: SigurjĂłn Ragnar, srphoto@mac.com

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Airbus A330-300 wide-body

TF-WOW Type: A330-300 - YoM: 2015 - Seats: 345 TF-WOW was the first aircraft registration name acquired by WOW air. It now adorns one of our Airbus A330 wide-body jets which was added to the WOW fleet early summer 2016. WOW air’s A330s are the largest aircraft used on commercial flights to and from Iceland and are mostly used to service our routes to California, Florida and other long distance routes. TF-WOW has 27 BigSeats.

TF-MOM Type: A321-200 - YoM: 2014 - Seats: 200 Everyone loves their mom right? The second aircraft to get a WOW registration was TF-MOM; it was also the first aircraft bought and delivered to WOW air in March 2015. TF-MOM is also known as Freyja (The Nordic goddess of love) and is currently the only aircraft in the WOW fleet that has a name beyond its registration code. TF-WOW was the first aircraft registration name acquired by WOW air. It now adorns one of our Airbus A330 wide-body jets which was added to the WOW fleet early summer 2016.

Airbus 321-200

TF-DAD Type: A321-200 - YoM: 2014 - Seats: 200

WOW air has one of the youngest and most fuel efficient fleets in the world.

If you register a TF-MOM, it goes without saying that you should have a TF-DAD too. For a time TF-DAD was the only aircraft in the WOW fleet that was painted white and had a smile and sunglasses, following WOW air’s old livery. That all changed last May and TF-DAD is now just as purple as the rest of them.

TF-GMA Type: A321-200 - YoM: 2016 - Seats: 220 TF-GMA is a short name for Grandma, but don’t let the name fool you, she’s actually very young. The matriarch joined the WOW fleet at the end of May 2016, straight out of the box.

TF-GPA Type: A321-200 - YoM: 2016 - Seats: 220 Also straight-out-of-the-box, TF-GPA, aka Grandpa, joined the WOW fleet in August 2016. Together Grandma and Grandpa fly our guests to both North America and Europe.

TF-BRO

Type: A320-200 - YoM: 2010 - Seats: 174 TF-BRO has been servicing WOW air since September of 2015, flying to various destinations around Europe. Issue four 43

TF-SIS Type: A320-200 - YoM: 2010 - Seats: 174 TF-BRO’s twin sister was delivered to WOW air at the same time as TF-BRO, in September 2015, and works really hard carrying our guests to Europe.

TF-KID

Type: A321-200 - YoM: 2013 - Seats: 200 Delivered to WOW air in February 2016, TF-KID carries guests to both Europe and North America. A321-200neo

TF-SON Type: A321-200 - YoM: 2013 - Seats: 200 TF-SON, like his sister TF-KID, services both Europe and America. The SON was delivered to WOW air in March 2016.

TF-SKY Type: A321-200neo - YoM: 2017 - Seats: 208

TF-LUV

The sky is the limit for some, but for WOW air we aim further when it comes to technology. TF-SKY was delivered in June 2017 and has a brand new CFM LEAP-1A engine. WOW air is the first airline in Europe to operate the A321 neo aircraft. It offers A321 operators exceptional technical, economic and environmental performance, with a 15% reduction in fuel consumption and CO2 emissions versus current engines and a 50% cut in NOx emission. TF-SKY’s added flight range means it can fly our guests all the way to Tel Aviv in the Middle East and most of our destinations in North America as well.

Type: A330-300 - YoM: 2015 - Seats: 345 We love everyone, so naturally, we had to have a TF-LUV. This widebody jet was delivered to WOW air early summer 2016. TF-LUV has 27 BigSeats.

TF-GAY Type: A330-300 - YoM: 2010 - Seats: 338 TF-GAY is the out and proud member of the WOW family. A free spirit at heart, he visits San Francisco as often as he can. TF-GAY was delivered to WOW air in June 2016. TF-GAY has 14 BigSeats.

TF-JOY Type: A321-200 - YoM: 2016 - Seats: 220 Just before Christmas 2016 we received TF-JOY straight-out-ofthe-box from Airbus. It was the best holiday present ever!

TF-NEO Type: A320-200 neo - YoM: 2017 - Seats: 180 TF-NEO (New Engine Option) has brand new CFM LEAP-1A engines that are more economically and environmentally friendly than any other on the market. TF-NEO’s added flight range means it can fly our guests all the way to Canada in addition to servicing our shorter European routes.

The sky is the limit for some, but for WOW air we aim further when it comes to technology. TFSKY was delivered in June 2017 and has a brand new CFM LEAP-1A engine.

TF-CAT Type: A321-200 - YoM: 2018 - Seats: 208 Hey kitty girl! The cat’s out of the bag and ready to fly our guests around the world. Our new pet was brought to us straight from the assembly line at the Airbus factory in February. TF-CAT has 200 regular seats that have a leg room from regular to XXL and in addition to that, it has 8 BigSeats for those who like to get really comfortable on their way between Europe, Iceland and America. MEOW!

TF-DOG Type: A321-200 - YoM: 2018 - Seats: 208 Who let the TF-DOG out? We got this friendly and loyal aircraft straight from the assembly line at the Airbus factory in April 2018. This young pup has 200 regular seats with standard, XL and XXL legroom, as well as 8 BigSeats for those who love to curl up and get extra comfortable during their flight. We didn’t have to teach this aircraft any new tricks, TF-DOG knows it all.

TF-PRO Type: A321-200 - YoM: 2017 - Seats: 218 Say hello to one of our young professionals of the sky. All of our aircraft are total pros, but this one gets to be TF-PRO. Delivered in May 2017 with newly designed interior in WOW air’s style, it gives genuine comfort and is truly amazing.

TF-DTR Type: A321-200neo - YoM: 2018 - Seats: 208 This abbreviation works both in English and Icelandic. The word is daughter but we would like it to also stand for the Icelandic word dottir as it is a word associated with strength and perseverance. That is what this aircraft is all about. Delivered to WOW air in June 2018, straight from the assembly line at Airbus, our daughter excels when it comes to technical, economic and environmental performance due to the brand new CFM LEAP-1A engine. Like TF-SKY, its sister aircraft, TF-DTR makes us proud.

TF-WIN Type: A321-200 - YoM: 2017 - Seats: 218 We like winning, and TF-WIN well represents our ambition. Delivered in May 2017 with newly designed interior, WIN serves both our European and North American destinations.

TF-NOW Type: A321-200 - YoM: 2017 - Seats: 218

Several of our brand new babies in the family are the A320neo and A321neo. NEO stands for New Engine Option and offers up to 15% reduction in fuel consumption. You will be amazed how quiet these aircraft are.

Make sure you are present in the NOW and fly with TF-NOW in glamorous style. Delivered to WOW air in June 2017 with newly designed interior, TF-NOW travels to both Europe and North America. TECHNICAL INFO

Airbus A320-200

Airbus 320-200neo

Airbus A321-200

Airbus 321-200neo

Airbus A330-300

Max takeoff weight: 78,000 kg Range: 6,150 km Engines: 2xIAE-V2500 Cruising speed: Mach 0.82

Max takeoff weight: 79,000 kg Range: 6,850 km with Sharklets Engines: 2xCFM LEAP-1A Cruising speed: Mach 0.82

Max takeoff weight: 93,500 kg Range: 5,950 km with Sharklets Engines: 2xCFM-56 Cruising speed: Mach 0.82

Max takeoff weight: 93,500 kg Range: 6,850 km with Sharklets Engines: 2xCFM LEAP-1A Cruising speed: Mach 0.82

Max takeoff weight: 235,000 kg Range: 11,100 km Engines: 2xRR-Trent700 Cruising speed: Mach 0.86

WOW Power to the people

ble ub

Glo om

M Ma iss dd

FOR ALL THOSE WHO ARE YOUNG AT HEART

Fred

Come and meet the Tulipoppers in our magical flagship store in central ReykjavĂk or find them in boutiques around Iceland. Check out the Tulipop channel on YouTube to watch our new animated series.

Learn more about the Icelandic Tulipop world and browse the Tulishop online www.tulipop.com. @tulipop

@tulipopworld

Issue four 45

Head in the clouds

SCENIC FLIGHT FROM LAKE MÝVATN Driving around Iceland is one thing, but nothing compares to seeing its volcanic glory from above. A scenic flight over its northern gems from Lake Mývatn is all the convincing you need. by Shaun Busuttil

ess than two hours ago I was crossing the finish line at the Mývatn Marathon and following it up with a relaxing soak in the silica-rich, blue waters of Myvatn Nature Baths. Now I’m squeezing myself into the backseat of a Cessna 206 Stationair. I do this while a howling wind blows across the runway, almost lifting the small plane into the air before the thing’s even been started up. Okay, I’m exaggerating, but just a little, because the wind is definitely raging today. But then again, the weather’s often extreme and erratic in Iceland—it comes with the territory—and something tells me that for Captain Guðrún and her co-pilot Hjalti of Mýflug Air, this is just another day at the office. UP AND AWAY

Dozens of pseudo craters pockmark the ground below, making it look like the area was at the wrong end of a meteorite shower. These craters were formed by steam explosions when flowing hot lava from a tremendous fissure erup tion 2300 years ago reached the lake.

As the nose of the single-engine aircraft tilts upwards and we ascend, I know I’ve made the right decision boarding this sightseeing flight from Mývatn Airport in Northern Iceland, despite my nerves. Almost immediately Lake Mývatn’s otherworldly landscape begins revealing itself. Dozens of pseudo craters pockmark the ground below, making it look like the area was at the wrong end of a meteorite shower. These craters were formed by steam explosions when flowing hot lava from a tremendous fissure eruption 2300 years ago reached the lake. And encrusting Mývatn’s turquoise shores are charcoal-grey lava pillars which stand as monuments to its volcanic past. But this is just the beginning of a 90-minute aerial display of Iceland’s volcanic grandeur. Sitting on the western edge of the Mid-Atlantic Ridge that slices the country north to south, Lake Mývatn is strategically positioned near some of Iceland’s most impressive scenery—all just a short flight away. LUNAR LANDSCAPE After looping the lake, we fly towards Askja Stratovolcano over the Ódáðahraun Lava Field, a region that bears a closer resemblance to the moon than any place on Earth. Indeed, the US Space Program practiced its lunar landings here in the mid-60s. “We’re flying over the largest lava field in Iceland,” Hjalti tells us through our headsets, “which is the result of many eruptions throughout the centuries.” Ódáðahraun Lava Field is actually a desert as little to nothing grows on it.

WOW Power to the people

Issue four 47

On the way, scary-looking rain clouds float outside my window, and occasionally we run into pockets of turbulence that make it feel like we’re in some aerodynamic washing machine tumbling through the sky. But the views outside the window are so captivating, and I’m able to use my camera like a buoy in a stormy Arctic sea, taking pictures to calm myself during these tense moments. Every now and then the sun penetrates through gaps in the clouds, painting the desolate, blackened earth below in a warm orange—like some gilded ghost. AN EXPLOSIVE PAST Reaching Askja (1510 m) we bank left and circle over its gigantic caldera—Iceland’s largest. Askja occupies a remote part of the central Highland. The name Askja actually refers to a series of nested calderas that sit within the surrounding Dyngjufjöll Mountains. But it’s the caldera we’re flying over that is the region’s most famous—and spectacular. Carved into the earth on the back of a powerful volcanic eruption in 1875, this earth-shattering explosion belched so much tephra in the air that it completely covered Iceland’s eastern fjords, essentially poisoning the land and killing much of its livestock. The mass eruption also had far-reaching consequences, literally, for not only did it spark a wave of mass emigration from Iceland (mostly to Canada), but it catapulted its tephra as far away as Germany and Poland. HAIL TO THE QUEEN Leaving Askja we fly to Holuhraun, a huge recently formed lava field. “Holuhraun is 85km² and was created by a series of fissure eruptions that began on 29 August 2014 and continued for six months,” Hjalti tells us through our headsets. Outside my window,

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these fissures, still visible, rip through the land—frown lines on an angry Earth when seen from above. Onwards to the Vatnajökull Glacier, we fly past Mt. Herðubreið, a rare tuya volcano known as the “Queen of Icelandic Mountains.” Standing in the distance on the eastern edge of the Ódáðahraun Desert, this distinctive, flat-topped volcano formed when lava erupted through the glacier that once covered it.

Leaving Askja we fly to Holuhraun, a huge recently formed lava field. “Holuhraun is 85km² and was created by a series of fissure eruptions that began on 29 August 2014 and continued for six months,” Hjalti tells us through our headsets.

FROZEN VASTNESS “The Vatnajökull Glacier is around 400 m thick on average, but in some sections, you’d need to drill over 1 km just to clear the ice,” Hjalti explains as we leave the lava encrusted landscape below and begin our aerial incursion over the glacier. Mere seconds pass before we’re completely surrounded in a white so vast I can’t see where the glacier ends and the horizon begins. It’s as if an enormous white curtain has fallen down upon the terrestrial stage under grand celestial lights—as if all the colors in the spectrum packed up and fled for warmer ground, leaving only a brilliant white light. It’s both dazzling and a little disconcerting to fly over such a remote part of the planet that’s so inhospitable to man.

Vatnajökull is Iceland’s largest glacier, an immense 8000 km² ice cap that covers nearly 10 percent of the country. Put in perspective, that’s bigger than Hong Kong, Brunei and Luxembourg combined. Vatnajökull also packs an impressive 3100 km³ in sheer volume, making it Europe’s most voluminous glacier—and second largest in size behind the Austfonna Glacier in Svalbard, Norway. “The glacier was used as a shooting location in the second season of Game of Thrones,” Hjalti tells us as we continue over it.

Just before landing, I see the 10km-wide Krafla caldera and a section of its 90km-long fissure zone outside my window. Krafla sits smack-bang in the middle of the American and Eurasian tectonic plates, an immensely active geothermal region in northern Iceland. “There have been 29 eruptions in this area in recorded history,” explains Hjalti as we fly over the smoky hills. Capitalizing on the high volcanic activity lurking just beneath the ground, the 60MW capacity Krafla geothermal power plant— Iceland’s largest with 33 boreholes—was built in 1977; it’s been supplying the country with about a quarter of its energy ever since.

As with many other glaciers in Iceland, several active volcanoes dwell under Vatnajökull. When they erupt—and they often do—they melt large volumes of ice which can burst through the weakened glacial walls and cause catastrophic mass flooding. For example, in 1996 the Grímsvötn Volcano in Vatnajökull’s northwest erupted, releasing up to 50,000 m3/s of glacial water over the course of several days.

It’s still windy when I step out of the plane and plant both feet firmly on the ground. As much as I’d like to linger, I have a marathon of a drive ahead of me: a 524km road trip back to Keflavik Airport via Hvammstangi where I’ll spend the night. But I don’t mind the long drive, because in whatever way you view this amazing country—whether up in the sky or down on the ground—Iceland has the special ability to take your breath away.

THE HOME STRETCH On the way back to the airport I spy Hverfjall, an enormous tephra explosion crater on Lake Mývatn’s eastern shores formed in the wake of a huge eruption around 3000 years ago. Two days ago, I had walked along its rim, like so many visitors to the region do. In near-perfect symmetry, it stands 396 m tall and boasts a 1 km wide distinctive black ash cone. “Hverfjall is connected to the extremely active Krafla volcanic system,” Hjalti informs us, “and is easily one of the most beautiful volcanoes in Iceland.” I can’t help but agree.

BACK TO EARTH

You’ll find your areal sightseeing flight with Mýflug at www.myflug.is but before you head north, check out visitmyvatn.is, geotravel.is or amazingnorth. is to plan your trip.

The hottest spots near Lake Mývatn Where to sleep: Hotel Laxá – hotellaxa.is Where to eat: Eldey restaurant at Hotel Laxá and Vogafjós – vogafjosfarmresort.is What to see: Dimmuborgir, Hverfjall, The Bird Museum, Krafla, Askja, Lofthellir Cave, Dettifoss Waterfall, Goðafoss Waterfall … the list goes on What to do: Scenic flights with Mýflug Air, a dog sledding tour with Snowdogs.is, a hike and bike tour with hikeandbike.is, a dip into Myvatn Nature Baths (myvatnnaturebaths.is) and so much more.

Issue four 49

A WOW WORD OF ADVICE

Drivers beware. Unpaved roads are more common in Iceland than one might think.

Stay safe on the roads When Mother Nature created Iceland, she was in a mood. Getting killed is an actual threat when travelling in the spectacular, yet brutal, Icelandic wilderness. The natural forces should be respected and feared, this is not the place to be reckless. And yet, it is far too common for foreign travelers not to take this threat seriously, even at a fatal cost. by Eygló Árnadóttir Photo: iStockphoto.com / Jindřich Blecha

celandic roads are mostly narrow with little room to pass, even with risky surroundings on each side of the road. Pulling over onto the shoulder can be very dangerous and can interfere with other drivers’ sight lines. Far too many foreign drivers underestimate the danger and simply pull over to the side whenever something photogenic catches their eye. Don’t do that, as it is both illegal and dangerous. There are many side roads, farm entrances and lookout spots where you can pull off. Just wait a bit instead of taking the risk, there are plenty of breathtaking views ahead. And please note that off-road driving is strictly forbidden in Iceland!

WOW Power to the people

HEADING TO THE HIGHLAND? The gravel roads to the Icelandic Highland are normally open from the beginning of July until the end of September. These risky roads require a 4x4 truck and the drivers’ complete focus as they can be very rocky, steep and muddy. They also often make it necessary for drivers to ford rivers, which is a tricky business and can easily go wrong. Some rivers aren’t even passable on a regular 4x4 truck, let alone a small car. With no warning signs showing the safest way to enter a given river, many foreign drivers simply head on without hesitation, making summer a busy season for the Icelandic Search and Rescue teams who repeatedly have to save stranded passengers in cars that

In case of an emergency call 112. Download the 112 Iceland app to your phone, where pressing one button calls for help while sending your location by text.

get stuck. Even when everyone gets out safely, water damages to rental cars make for sky high repair bills – and rental car insurances do not cover river crossings! What a way to spoil a great vacation. DO THE HOMEWORK! Educate yourself on how to stay safe in Icelandic wilderness. Follow every safety warning and always listen to your guide – Icelanders are a relatively laid-back bunch, so when they shout danger they mean it. When driving you always need to know the road status. For information on road conditions and weather, call 1777 (or +354 522 1100); open 8-16 in the summer. Call 1778 for an English answering machine with similar information.

Issue four 51

Reykjavík City Center Route 1

Discover the suburbs

Three museums – One bus route Some of Iceland’s most interesting museums are a little off the beaten track but well worth the scenic bus ride into three of Reykjavik’s suburbs.

Kópavogur

Gerðarsafn Garðabær

Hönnunarsafn Íslands

Hafnarfjörður

Hafnarborg

Bus route no. 1

Staying cool in Kópavogur Gerðarsafn – Kópavogur Art Museum is a progressive museum with an emphasis on modern and contemporary art. Located in the heart of Kópavogur, the museum sits next to Kópavogur Church, a symbol of the town. Gerðarsafn, which opened in 1994, is the only museum in Iceland founded in honor of a female artist, sculptor Gerður Helgadóttir (19281975). Gerður was a pioneer in abstract sculpture in Iceland and in the mid-20th century was well known in the art circles of Paris. Aside from her sculptural works she also worked in mosaic and stained glass. Works by Gerður can also be seen in France and Germany. Gerðarsafn Museum’s summer exhibition: GERÐUR | A Retrospective, seeks to open up the world of Gerður, her innovative artistic practice and the broad spectrum of her works. Gerðarsafn - Kópavogur Art Museum I Hamraborg 4 I 200 Kópavogur I tel.+354 441 7600 I Opening hours: Tue-Sun 11 am – 5 pm I gerdarsafn.is

Great designs in Garðabær The Museum of Design and Applied Art collects and preserves the part of Icelandic cultural history encompassing design, especially from the beginning of the 20th century to the present day. Since its foundation in 1998, the museum has showcased many of Iceland’s greatest design and curated exhibitions of great interest. Their latest exhibition is Imaginarium of Kron by Kronkron, displaying the creations of husbandand-wife team Magni Þorsteinsson and Hugrún Árnadóttir who have designed 1,200 pairs of shoes over the past ten years. This retrospective of their work features 600 pairs of unique handcrafted shoes. Also exhibiting at the Museum of Design and Applied Art is Behind the Scenes with Einar Þorsteinn. In 2014 architect and mathematician Einar Þorsteinn Ásgeirsson (1942-2015) donated most of the contents of his workshop to the museum, including diaries, photographs, drawings, calculations, sketchbooks, models and furniture. Don’t forget to stop by the Museum Shop on your way out. It features work that is related to current and past exhibitions as well as the permanent collection. Live exhibitions and pop-ups are part of the shop. Museum of Design and Applied Art I Garðatorg 1 I 210 Garðabær I Tel. +354 512 1525 I Opening hours: Tue-Sun 12-5 pm I honnunarsafn.is

Summer in Hafnarborg Hafnarborg - The Hafnarfjörður Center of Culture and Fine Art Museum is a dynamic and ambitious institution and an important factor in the cultural life in the town of Hafnarfjörður. Hafnarborg preserves Hafnarfjörður’s art collection, ensuring that this heritage remains in public view. During the summer of 2018, an exhibition of both treasures and curiosities from the collection will mark the museum’s 35th anniversary. From July 7–15 the second edition of the Hafnarborg Songfest will be held at the museum. The aim is to celebrate song and increase knowledge of singing through concerts, master classes, work shops and videos. This year, in celebration of the centennial of Iceland’s sovereignty, the focus will be especially on Icelandic music. Hafnarborg Center of Culture and Fine Art I Strandgata 34 I 220 Hafnarfjörður I tel. +354 585 5790 I Opening hours: Wed-Mon 12-5 pm, closed on Tuesdays I hafnarborg.is

WOW Power to the people

r e t p o c i l He urs To WANT TO FLY OVER MOUNTAINTOPS, ACTIVE VOLCANOES AND ANCIENT GLACIERS?

TOUR PRICES FROM 27.900 ISK PER PERSON

TEL: +354 562 2500 INFO@HELICOPTER.IS

NAUTHÓLSVEGI 58D 101 REYKAVÍK

Issue four 53

Slippbarinn Opening hours: Sundays to Thursdays: 11:30 am – midnight / Fridays and Saturdays: 11:30 am – 1:00 am / Happy hour: every day from 3-6 pm.

Mýrargata 2 101 Reykjavik Tel: +354 560 8080 Email: slippbarinn@icehotels.is www.slippbarinn.is

lippbarinn became an instant hit, with its emphasis on fresh ingredients, creativity and high-quality hand-crafted cocktails. Many fine bars have since followed in Slippbarinn’s footsteps, making the Reykjavík scene exciting to any cocktail connoisseur. But no one else quite lives up to the endless innovation, ambition and sheer style of the inimitable Slippbarinn.

Bright flavors and bold presentation In the kitchen as in the bar, Slippbarinn is guided by its philosophy of flux and creativity. Starting with the solid foundation of a classic dish, the chefs

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Slippbarinn

The birthplace of Icelandic cocktail culture It has already been five years since Slippbarinn opened its doors at the trendy and delightful Icelandair Hotel Reykjavík Marina, but it is still as popular as ever. As it turns out, Reykjavík in 2012 was ripe for a cocktail revolution.

bring their own twist, sometimes bold, sometimes subtle, but always deeply satisfying. An everevolving menu consists of dishes that combine fresh and hearty, wholesome and flavorful, with a dash of adventure. Some classics have earned a permanent place, however. Be sure not to miss the legendary charcuterie (created to share), the expertly prepared calamari, or what might be the best fish soup in the entire city!

Your perfect harbor hangout Almost every town in Iceland is a fishing village at heart. At Slippbarinn, you get right in touch with

Reykjavík’s roots. Located on the old harbor, in view of a still-operational dock, it’s where you can watch fishing vessels being repaired. Slippbarinn is the perfect place to while away an afternoon over a whiskey sour and the catch of the day. When it is time for a caffeine fix, head over to Slippbarinn’s baby brother, the adjoined gourmet café Kaffi slippur. The pastries will melt in your mouth and you will dream of them ever after.

Slippbarinn is the perfect place to while away an afternoon over a whiskey sour and the catch of the day.

VOX Restaurant Tel.: +354 444 5050 | www.vox.is

Geiri Smart Restaurant Hverfisgata 30 | Tel.: +354 528 7050 | geirismart.is

EXTRAORDINARY RESTAURANTS FOR FINE DINING OR A CASUAL LUNCH VISIT APPETITEFORICELAND.COM FOR THE BEST WE HAVE TO OFFER

Icelandair Hotel Akureyri Tel.: +354 518 100 | www.aurorarestaurant.is

Satt Restaurant Tel.: +354 444 4050 | www.sattrestaurant.is

The Drunk Rabbit Irish Pub Opening hours: Sunday – Thursday 12 pm-1 am Friday – Saturday 12 pm-4 am Happy hour: every day from 12-19 pm.

Austurstræti 3 101 Reykjavík Tel: +354 553 1041 E-mail: info@drunkrabbit.is www.facebook.com/drunkrabbit.is www.drunkrabbit.is

f you happen to be in Reykjavik on St. Patrick’s Day, which is also The Drunk Rabbit’s anniversary, be sure to join the celebration.

Happy hour The happy hour, or should we say happy hours, at The Drunk Rabbit are unique with great offers on beers, wines, spirits and ciders from 12-19 every day. Besides the Guinness, eight different local beers and ales are available on tap and more in bottles. The bar is full and the whiskey selection is excel lent. Irish whiskeys, Scotch whiskeys, bourbons and even an Icelandic single malt called Flóki.

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The Drunk Rabbit

Let’s make it Irish The Drunk Rabbit Irish Pub is an authentic Irish watering hole in the heart of downtown Reykjavik. Since its opening on St. Patrick’s Day 2016 it has become a favorite venue for people from all over the world as well as locals. The Drunk Rabbit serves the best Guinness on tap, has perfect Irish coffee and great craic.

Food The Drunk Rabbit is not a restaurant but as in every good Irish pub, there is a small food menu for the hungry ones. The fish & chips are probably the best you’ll find in Iceland.

Entertainment There is always great craic at The Drunk Rabbit where you can watch live sports, football, rugby or whatever you’d like. Just ask the staff if they can show your game and they will try their best to find it. Live music is a big part of the craic here and it’s on seven days a week from 10 pm ‘til closing with

different musicians from all around the world every night. Tuesday nights are session nights starting about 8:30 pm.

The happy hour, or should we say happy hours, at The Drunk Rabbit are unique with great offers on beers, wines, spirits and ciders from 12-19 every day. Besides the Guinness, eight different local beers and ales are available on tap and more in bottles.

Kaldi Bar Opening hours: Sunday-Thursday: 12:00 pm - 01:00 am Friday & Saturday: 12:00 pm 03:00 am Happy our every day from 4-7 pm

A breath of fresh air

Cool as Kaldi

Laugavegur 20b 101 Reykjavik Tel: +354 581 2200 www.kaldibar.com

Kaldi Bar is one of Iceland’s most unique bars. An oasis in central Reykjavík.

t might not be spacious but it makes up for it with great relaxing atmos phere in a rustic setting. Besides the congenial atmosphere, there’s a great outside seating area in a cozy backyard. Known for its wide collection of local micro brews both on draft and in bottles, Kaldi Bar is very popular among locals who check in at happy hour to get their fill of the unfiltered Kaldi brew. Drop by and get to know everybody, they might even give you some good tips on how to become a local.

Kaldi Bar is one of Iceland’s most unique bars. An oasis in central Reykjavík. It might not be spacious but it makes up for it with great relaxing atmosphere in a rustic setting.

Issue four 57

KRYDD Restaurant & Bar Opening hours: Sun-Thurs: 11:00 am – 12 pm and Fri-Sat: 11 am – 1 am.

KRYDD Restaurant & Bar Strandgata 34 220 Hafnarfjordur Tel: + 354 558 2222 – Email: krydd@kryddveitingahus.is www.kryddveitingahus.is

The Gastric Gem of Hafnarfjörður! Located in the heart of Hafnarfjörður, the quaint yet funky town known as Iceland’s “Notting Hill,” the fabulously fun KRYDD Restaurant & Bar is a feast for the eyes and taste-buds.

his newly opened and vibrant dining experi ence, offers an original and exciting concept with a bold blend of chic modern and rustic, organic wooden touches. KRYDD is unique, with its roomy high ceilings, beautiful timber finishes, comfortable, relaxed seating and chill areas … and an impressively large bar made from reclaimed harbor wood! The walls are decorated with striking original Icelandic artwork that fuses perfectly with the elegant yet earthy feel of this impressive, new dining spot. The fabulously different and funky décor and hip relaxing ambiance promise a fun night out!

WOW Power to the people

KRYDD’s extensive, fun and varied menu offers just about anything for anyone and caters to vegans and vegetarians as well. With a vast array of surprising gastric delights, KRYDD’s kitchen is open from 11 am to 10 pm every day and the bar (with light dishes off the menu available) stays open until midnight on weekdays and 1 am on weekends. One of the few places in Iceland to offer brunch, KRYDD has a delicious “all you can eat” buffet brunch available on Saturdays and Sundays from 11 am to 3 pm. Cocktails, cocktails and more cocktails and an extensive wine and beer list, KRYDD’s bar has happy hour every day between 4 and 6pm!

From brunches to happy hour, lunch, dinner and a fabulous and professional bar service, KRYDD should be your choice for a unique dining and drinking experience, any day of the week!

The walls are decorated with striking original Icelandic artwork that fuses perfectly with the elegant yet earthy feel of this impressive, new dining spot. The fabulously different and funky décor and hip relaxing ambiance promise a fun night out!

American Bar Open: Mondays to Thursday from 11:00 am - 1:00 am - Fri - Sat: 11:00 am 4:30 am - Sun: 11:00 am - 1:00 am

American Bar American Bar captures the American spirit; land of the free, home of the brave with a unique selection of beer and a simple yet delicious menu. American Bar is a must-visit when in Reykjavik.

Beer selection second to none With more than 50 different kinds of beer you are sure to find the beer that suits your taste. There’s beer made in the Hawaiian Islands as well as beer made from the famous Icelandic water.

Location and experience Located at the heart of Reykjavik, American Bar is easy to find. Once inside you’ll feel at home right away, especially if you’re an American; with decorations like football helmets (find your favorite team) and the American flag.

Live music, live sport and the Wheel of Fortune Live music every night brings the right atmosphere and if you want to shake it up a bit you can hit the

dance floor on weekends and dance into the crazy Reykjavik night. If you are feeling lucky you can always spin the Wheel of Fortune. Must see that game in the English PL or the Champions League? You will be well taken care of at the American Bar. HD-screens and TVs in every corner make sure that you won’t miss one second of your favorite sport.

Inside and out—all day long With more than 100 seats inside and a great outdoor area on the sunny side (for those wonderful sunny Icelandic summer days) you will always find a seat at a good table. The outside area is truly remarkable, overlooking Dómkirkjan Cathedral and Alþingi (Parliament House). When you think of central Reykjavik this is it! The menu

Austurstræti 8-10 101 Reykjavik Tel: +354 571 9999 Mobile: +354 697 9003 Find us on Facebook/AmericanBarIceland

is simple, yet delicious. The hamburgers, ribs and chicken wings are well-known to the locals for being unique and tasty. Lunch or dinner, live music or dancing, beer or cocktails; the American Bar has it all and is truly worth the visit!

Life is short—Drink early! Located at the heart of Reykjavik, American Bar is easy to find. Once inside you’ll feel at home right away, especially if you’re an American; with decorations like football helmets (find your favorite team) and the American flag.

The English Pub Opening hours: Sun-Thurs: 12:00 - 01:00 Fri-Sat: 12-04:30 Open at 11 am from May 1st to September 1st.

Austurstræti 12 101 Reykjavik Tel: +354 578 0400 Mobile: +354 697 9003 www.enskibarinn.is. www.enskibarinn.is.

The English Pub – Save water, drink beer For years, Iceland has enjoyed a diverse selection of restaurants and often sophisticated bars. However, one tiny grumble occasionally surfaced from the country’s Anglophiles – simply that there was no proper “pub”.

nd so the English Pub was born. From modest beginnings it has built a hearty reputation, seeking out, with the advice and guidance of its dedicated customers, the finest ale available to mankind. Today it offers its enthusiastic clientele the chance to try a great variety of beers, foreign brands, as well as many local beers that are a must try.

Whisky galore Not content to rest on its laurels, the English Pub has ventured north of its virtual border and also offers the finest selection of whiskies anywhere in the country. Acclaimed assortment of malts includes many of Scotland’s finest, ensuring numerous Icelanders and worldly travelers make

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the pilgrimage to the pub’s humble door. Located at the very heart of downtown Reykjavik, the walls of the English Pub are adorned with hundreds of photographs – like an album of the city’s history just waiting to be explored over a quiet beer.

A sporting chance Live sporting coverage is amply catered for, with a choice of six big screens and two TV screens. Inside the pub there is room for up to 150 people, and an outdoor terrace can accommodate plenty more on those balmy Icelandic evenings! Whether it is football (Premier and Champions League), rugby or golf, there are always special offers when live events are being broadcast. Live music every night adds

to the atmosphere. In addition to the happy hour from 4-7pm every day, and for the ones feeling lucky, there is the Wheel of Fortune. Regulars like nothing more than to spin the wheel and chance a “Sorry” or preferably, win what used to be called a Yard of Ale. These days, it’s inevitably known as a meter of beer, but the winners don’t seem to mind!

Located at the very heart of downtown Reykjavik, the walls of the English Pub are adorned with hundreds of photographs – like an album of the city’s history just waiting to be explored over a quiet beer.

The Lebowski Bar Opening hours: 11:00 – 01:00 Sun-Thurs and 11:00 – 04:00 Fri/Sat Twitter: @LebowskiBar Instagram: #LebowskiBa

Laugavegur 20a 101 Reykjavik Tel: +354 552 2300 email: info@lebowskibar.is www.lebowskibar.is

Lebowski Bar The Reykjavik venue that rocks! Walking into this American retro bar, is stepping back in time. And right away you know it’s the right bar for a few White Russians and a real good time. With carefully chosen music from the 50s to the 80s, the atmosphere in Lebowski Bar comes together giving the good vibration that the Dude would definitely abide by! Just walk in to see what condition your condition is in...

ll kinds of people come here,” the staff proudly explains. “Icelanders, tourists, everybody. With food and music that suits everyone, our customers range from age 20 to 85.” On those rare, but beautiful “warm” days in Iceland, Lebowski is the place to be: the huge outdoor terrace opens whenever the temperature rises above “a steamy 5°C.” But even with all this going for it, what Lebowski Bar prides itself most on is its delicious, diner-style menu with one-of-a-kind burgers, thick and creamy milkshakes, and oh yeah— White Russians. White Russians. Lebowski Bar has over 23 different variations of White Russians, the most popular one being the Cocaucasian, a regular White Russian topped with Cocoa Puffs. Some call it the brunch of champions, others Cocoa Puffs Russian … Either way, it’s delicious!

Where’s the Burger, Lebowski? Made with 150 grams of beef—that’s more than a quarter pound, for the metrically-challenged— Lebowski Bar’s classic burgers always hit the spot and boast a tempting array of toppings and sauces, from chili-marinated bacon to Japanese mayo.

With its perfect balance of sweet and savory, the Honey Boo, a honey-glazed bacon and BBQ-sauce burger, has been called “the best bacon burger in town” (and there are a lot of them to choose from). The Other Lebowski, a steak burger made from extra juicy beef tenderloin, is a staff favorite. Wanna go big? Check out the “Burger of the Month” specialty offerings. Past specialty burgers have included the Once Upon a Time in the West, made with steak tenderloin marinated in La Trappe Quadrupel Ale and served with Jack Daniels BBQ Sauce and caramelized onions, among other tasty toppings. Another limited-time option was the Sgt. Pepper’s Lonely Hearts Club Band, a piquant patty served—appropriately enough—with pepper cheese and chili sauce. Burgers are clearly the house specialty here. For non-beefy options, Lebowski Bar has something for you, too. Try the Bunny Lebowski Chicken Burger, which was declared “gorgeous” by one happy visitor on Trip Advisor, or The Stranger Veggie Burger. And if you’re looking for something lighter, there are plenty of bar snacks—from cheese-stuffed jalapeños to onion rings—to enjoy with your beer.

You’re not wrong, Walter Lebowski Bar opens 11 am for lunch and there is a DJ every night from 9 pm. All big sports events are shown on all 5 Full HD screens. “This Reykjavík place is mind-bending,” Trip Advisor user Graham enthused after a recent visit. “The burgers are massive, the chips chunky and the beers and White Russians flow. There’s a happy hour to bring down Iceland’s high prices, and regular bands playing to bring the film’s rockin’ ethos to life.” Sounds good to us. But you know, that’s just, like, his opinion, man.

Wanna go big? Check out the “Burger of the Month” specialty offerings. Past specialty burgers have included the Once Upon a Time in the West, made with steak tenderloin marinated in La Trappe Quadrupel Ale and served with Jack Daniels BBQ Sauce and caramelized onions, among other tasty toppings.

Issue four 61

Where the locals go Two local secrets on the Reykjavik restaurant scene that will leave you wanting more.

Grái kötturinn

The Gray Cat prides itself on its home made bread, tuna salad, hummus and pancakes. It is frequented by local artists and intellectuals.

The right place to energize for a busy day

he Gray Cat” is a cozy, dimly lit, book-lined café in an old townhouse, and a must visit when in Reykjavik. It opens early (perfect for those who have arrived on the red-eye) and focuses on American style breakfast, lunch and brunch. Although the Cat is famous for their big breakfast dish known as “The Truck,” you will find more on the menu, such as sandwiches, bagels, hummus, eggs & bacon and last but not least; American pancakes. The Gray Cat prides itself on its homemade bread, tuna salad, hummus and pancakes. It is frequented by local artists and intellectuals. So do like the locals; sit down, read a book or plan your day while you eat eggs, pancakes or bagels and drink good coffee (Icelanders take the latter very seriously).

Grái kötturinn I Hverfisgata 16a I 101 Reykjavik I Tel: +354 551 1544 I facebook.com/graikotturinn/ I Mon-Fri; 7:30AM-2:30PM I Sat-Sun 8:00AM-2:30PM

Messinn at Grandi

The restaurant is located in an old fishing area close to the city center and offers a relaxed atmosphere and a great view, overlooking the Reykjavík Harbor.

If you want the best fish in Reykjavík, look no further

essinn by the Reykjavík Harbor is a new fish buffet restaurant that offers pan fried fish served in cast iron skillets, emphasizing fresh quality material in every way. The restaurant is located in an old fishing area close to the city center and offers a relaxed atmosphere and a great view, overlooking the Reykjavík Harbor. Another Messinn restaurant, located in the city center offers similar dishes and is rated as one of the top five restaurants in Reykjavík on TripAdvisor. The most popular courses are the fried Arctic char with honey and almonds, the Atlantic wolffish in a creamy mushroom sauce and the plaice fried with tomatoes, capers, lemon and butter.

Messinn I Grandagarður 8 and Lækjargata 6b I Tel: +354 562 1515 I messinn.com

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ODDSSON Hello is it me you’re looking for?

Hello is it me you’re looking for? 101 Reykjavík Tel: 5113579 www.oddsson.is email: hello@oddsson.is

ODDSSON Reykjavik ODDSSON is all about the surprising combinations that make life interesting.

luxurious suite on the same floor as an 8 bed dorm room. Extravagant design furniture in a lobby with stripped down concrete walls. A Karaoke room in the middle of a restaurant! Whether you are looking to splurge or save, this old warehouse turned hip-hostel is the place to rest, play, work, have a snack, meet people, make friends or just sit back and relax.

A view to get lost in Although ODDSSON is only a few steps away from the frenzy of bars, cafés and stores of downtown Reykjavík its proximity to the sea makes it feel nicely set apart from the bustle of the city center. As you kick back in the lobby’s sofa’s and take in that

expansive ocean view it’s easy to imagine yourself sitting somewhere at the edge of the world. The glorious sunset light on Mount Esja (or the northern lights over the bay if you’re lucky) only adds to the sensation. If you need to plan a trip, catch up on work or upload all those pictures you’ve been taking on your travels, why not grab a coffee at the café downstairs, spread your map, plug in your devices and make yourself at home. There’s plenty of space.

Did someone say yoga? If it’s relaxation you’re after, then be sure to memo rize the weekly schedule for the hostel’s yoga studio. With a variety of sessions ranging from quiet meditation hours to full-on Yoga classes, the

studio brings ODDSSON guests, staff members, and locals all together for a little bit of bliss. Perched on the fourth floor with warm wood vibes and huge windows opening up to the sky, there is nowhere better to salute the sun.

ODDSSON offers dorm rooms, single & double hostel rooms as well as en suite rooms at some of the best prices in Iceland. For an even better bargain use this code when you book your stay at ODDSSON.is: 4WOW2STAY

Issue four 63

Den Danske Kro Opening hours: Sun-Thurs 12:00 – 01:00 and Fri-Sat 12:00 – 05:00

Den Danske Kro Ingólfsstræti 3 101 Reykjavík Tel: +354 552 0070 www.dendanske.is

When in Iceland, go Danish! A vibrant place on the Reykjavík social scene is Den Danske Kro or “The Danish Pub,” a popular downtown venue with locals with happy hour and with live music every night.

en Danske Kro serves a variety of beers, in addition to familiar names such as Tuborg and Carlsberg, the Danish Pub serves a selection of seasonal beers from both Denmark and Iceland. During the Christmas months, Den Danske Kro is the home of the Tuborg Christmas Beer or “Julebryg,” a popular drink in Iceland during the darkest months.

check out the interior of the pub and you’ll discover an off-the-wall design in its most literal sense! Den Danske Kro is a great place to hang out with friends, play darts, watch sports, enjoy the occasional sun and watch the world go by on the outside terrace. And to get into the spirit of things, we recommend you try a glass of the customary Gammel Dansk bitters, a traditional Danish schnapps.

Cozy Copenhagen style

The place to party

The Danes have a word to describe a cozy, friendly atmosphere—“hyggelig” and that’s something the owners of the Danish Pub have worked hard to create in this home away from home within a pub. Just

Den Danske Kro, as said before, is a popular venue among locals, and as soon as happy hour kicks off, the place starts filling up with people from the neighborhood and others who want to finish the

WOW Power to the people

workday with a cold beer. Every night there’s live music where you can request your all-time favorite. During the weekend Den Danske Kro is open late. The bartenders will be happy to see you and you are welcome to dance and sing with the guests until the morning.

Den Danske Kro serves a variety of beers, in addition to familiar names such as Tuborg and Carlsberg, the Danish Pub serves a selection of seasonal beers from both Denmark and Iceland.

Kopar Restaurant Opening hours: Mondays to Thursday from 11:30-22:30 Fridays from 11:30-23:30 Saturdays from 12:00-23:30 Sundays from 18:00-22:30

Kopar Restaurant by the old harbor Kopar Restaurant is situated by Reykjavik‘s romantic harbor, in one of the old green fisherman‘s huts.

he fishing industry still thrives in Reykjavik, so the old harbor is full of life. In the morning, fishermen go out to sea and return later with their catch of the day. As you stand on the pier you can feel the history of Reykjavik and watch the harbor life: fishing boats, fishermen, the catch, and young kids with their rods trying their luck off the pier. Meanwhile passersby are walking about and enjoying life. This fresh and energetic atmosphere of the old harbor is all part of the experience when you dine at Kopar. Kopar is a seafood restaurant

featuring locally caught seafood and crustaceans. They are especially proud of their crab soup, made with Icelandic rock crab from Hvalfjordur. Kopar offers a variety of Icelandic produce, including wild game, although the main emphasis is seafood, the fruit of the ocean. Kopar‘s head chef, Ylfa, is a member of the gold medal winning national culinary team. She pre pares the seafood in a unique and delicate manner, intent on giving you an unforgetable experience.

Geirsgata 3 101 Reykjavik Tel: +354 567 2700 www.koparrestaurant.is info@koparrestaurant.is

Delight yourself with great service and atmosphere, delicious food and the best view in town. When visit ing Reykjavik, enjoying a night out at Kopar is a must.

Kopar‘s head chef, Ylfa, is a member of the gold medal winning national culinary team. She prepares the seafood in a unique and delicate manner, intent on giving you an unforgetable experience.

Issue four 65

Base Hotel Hostel at Ásbrú

Valhallarbraut 756-757, 235 Reykjanesbær, Iceland Tel: +354 519 1300

It’s all about the Base

www.basehotel.is e-mail: basehotel@basehotel.is

The recently opened Base HotelHostel at Ásbrú is a budget accommodation conveniently located near Keflavik Airport on the Reykjanes Peninsula.

ase HotelHostel is at a former NATO base used by the US Army until 2006. The hotel is located in two buildings where US Army families once resided and it embraces the 55-year history of the army’s presence in Iceland in its overall theme, with quirky little touches and photographs. “We looked to the area’s history and decided to create a positive concept revolving around that history. A big part of the design process was creating a warm, comfortable and fun space that could hold all the modern art that’s now on display. To add to the challenge, everything we did must be low-cost and to keep costs down we kept a lot of the furniture that was left in the house. A good example of that are the rocking chairs found in most rooms, which were used by the army families during the military’s stay in Iceland,” says Leifur Welding, hotel designer. PERFECT FOR STOPOVERS Base HotelHostel is perfect for short stopovers in Iceland and as a base for exploring the Reykjanes Peninsula and Southwest Iceland. The affordable rooms cater to all types of travelers. “Base Hotel has a lot to offer, the lone traveler just looking for a place to rest, the couple for a fun place to be, or the family needing more space. With our community kitchen, laundry room, TV lounges, library, game

WOW Power to the people

room, 24-hour reception and bar, and shuttle to and from the airport we try to meet everyone’s needs without abandoning our policy of being the most affordable accommodation in the area. The Base is not just a place to stay, it’s a place to live, even if it’s just for a few days,” says Base hotel manager Richard Eckard. At Base HotelHostel you’ll find hostel-style dorm rooms for the extremely cost conscious, suites for the private but thrifty and anything in between for everyone else who just like to stay within their budget but still get a good night’s rest. YOUR BASE IN ICELAND Because the Base HotelHostel is located close to Keflavik Airport a lot of precious time is saved on arrivals and departures for those on a brief WOW Stopover in Iceland. This affords guests more time to explore the Reykjanes Peninsula, a geologically young area displaying Iceland’s magnificent nature. From the Northern Lights to helicopter flights—whale watching to geothermal springs, the Reykjanes Peninsula’s got it all!

Base HotelHostel is at a former NATO base used by the US Army until 2006.

West Park Guesthouse

Welcome to the Snæfellsnes Peninsula West Park Guesthouse West Guesthouse Gufuskálar, Snæfellsbær West Park Park360 Guesthouse Tel: +354 837 7700 www.westpark.is Email: info@westpark.is

West West Park Park Guesthouse Guesthouse Gufuskálar, 360 Gufuskálar, 360 Snæfellsbær Snæfellsbær Tel: +354 +354 837 837 7700 7700 Tel: www.westpark.is www.westpark.is Email: Email: info@westpark.is info@westpark.is

West Park Guesthouse A day trip to the magnificent Snæfellsnes Peninsula will never suffice. To really relax and become one with the Icelandic countryside, stay the night at West Park Guesthouse.

Welcome to the Snæfellsnes Peninsula

West Park Guesthouse A day trip to the magnificent Snæfellsnes Peninsula will never suffice. To really relax and become one with the Icelandic countryside, stay the night at West Park Guesthouse.

West Park Guesthouse offers a great variety of on-site activities via their partners at Summit Adventure Guides which include bike tours, hiking, ice climbing on the Snæfellsjökull Glacier, skiing, snowmobiling and cave exploration!

West West Park Park Guesthouse Guesthouse offers offers a a great great variety variety of of on-site on-site activities activities via via their their partners partners at at Summit Summit Adventure Adventure Guides Guides which which include include bike bike tours, tours, hiking, hiking, ice ice climbing climbing on on the the Snæfellsjökull Snæfellsjökull Glacier, Glacier, skiing, skiing, snowmobiling snowmobiling and and cave cave exploration! exploration!

est Park Guesthouse features eight connected houses, each with three double rooms and one single room. Every house has its own shared kitchen and bathroom along with a common area with great views of Snæfellsjökull Glacier. Situated between the glacier and the ocean, each room has a spectacular view. est est Park Park Guesthouse Guesthouse features features eight eight con con-West Park Guesthouse offers a great nected houses, with three double nected houses, each each with three variety double of on-site activities via their partners at Summit rooms one room. Every has rooms and and one single single room. Every house house has its its Adventure which include bike tours, hiking, own kitchen and along with a own shared sharedGuides kitchen and bathroom bathroom along with a common common area area with with great great views views of of Snæfellsjökull Snæfellsjökull Glacier. Situated between the Glacier. Situated the glacier glacier and and the the 56 WOW Power to thebetween people ocean, ocean, each each room room has has a a spectacular spectacular view. view.

ice climbing on the Snæfellsjökull Glacier, skiing, snowmobiling and cave exploration!

West West Park Park Guesthouse Guesthouse provides provides the the best best value value accommodation accommodation in in West West Iceland, Iceland, offering offering affordable affordable and and clean clean rooms rooms as as well well as as helpful helpful and and

WOW WOW Power Power to to the the people people

The location is also ideal for seeing the Northern Lights due to the guesthouse’s isolation and minimal light pollution from nearby towns in the wintertime. ice ice climbing climbing on on the the Snæfellsjökull Snæfellsjökull Glacier, Glacier, skiing, skiing, West Park Guesthouse the best value snowmobiling and exploration! snowmobiling and cave caveprovides exploration! accommodation in West Iceland, offering affordable and cleanideal rooms well the as helpful and The location location is also also ideal for as seeing the Northern The is for seeing Northern Lights due to the guesthouse’s isolation and Lights due to the guesthouse’s isolation and minimal minimal light light pollution pollution from from nearby nearby towns towns in in the the wintertime. wintertime.

friendly staff. Make your stay comfortable and your experience memorable in the Snæfellsnes Peninsula.

The location is also ideal for seeing the Northern Lights due to the guesthouse’s isolation and minimal friendly friendly staff. staff. Make Make your your stay stay comfortable comfortable and and light pollution from nearby towns in your your experience experience memorable memorable in in the the Snæfellsnes Snæfellsnes the wintertime. Peninsula. Peninsula. The location is also ideal for seeing the Northern Lights due to the guesthouse’s isolation and minimal light pollution from nearby towns in the wintertime.

Issue four 67

me up

HOW HIGH WOULD YOU GO FOR MORE COMFORT? You can now fly in even more style to your destination. The WOW me up service makes it easy for our guests to bid on a seat upgrade before a flight.

o check if you are eligible for an upgrade and read the terms and conditions, go to wowair.us/wow-me-up and insert your booking number and last name. Bid on a BigSeat, XXL or XL seat, stating what you would be willing to pay for the upgrade. As soon as we’ve received your bid, you will get an email confirmation. At least 24 hours prior to your flight we will let you know whether your offer has been accepted. Easy-peasy right?

WOW Power to the people

HERE’S WHAT YOU ARE BIDDING FOR

* BigSeat + meals and drinks The spacious BigSeat is our most comfortable and luxurious seat available. The seats are extra wide and offer lots of legroom with their 37-inch pitch. Only two seats per row mean more personal space and the WOW premium onboard service and catering is included if you win the bid. To secure a BigSeat for your trip, you can, of course, add it to your flight or book the WOW premium option all the way.

* Extra legroom seats These seats may be normal but the pitch is out of this world. Treat your legs to more space on board for an even more comfortable journey. You can bid on seat pitch from XL-XXL (32-35 inches) but to secure such abundant legroom you must add it to your flight or book the WOW comfy option.

NATURE PARADISE IN BREIDAFJORDUR AND VESTMANNAEYJAR ICELAND'S LARGEST & SMALLEST INHABITED ISLANDS

brjánslækur flatey stykkishólmur

reykjavík

landeyjahöfn vestmannaeyjar

Issue four 69

GRAVEL GUIDE

Work hard, play hard This summer two WOW travel guides, Rob and Brad, moved to Iceland and have since been traveling the country and several WOW destinations. By creating awesome videos, photos and articles, they hope to enlighten, entertain and inspire others to travel.

"So far, our trip has taken us to Boston, Los Angeles, Reykjavik, Berlin, Barcelona, the West Fjords of Iceland and Amsterdam, and we are on a train to Brussels as I type this!” writes engineer and comedian Brad. “What a fantastic summer so far! The absolute highlight has to be Barcelona. The city is the perfect mix of upscale dining and quick tapas, world-class museums, inviting nightclubs, and the wonderfully Barri Gótic (the Gothic Quarter). I’m not sure how many hours we spent wandering those narrow medieval alleys, finding something new each time. And the icing on the cake? That BEACH! It’s one of the best for a major metropolitan city anywhere in the world. You can find us wherever they’re serving Aperol Spritzes.

Check out Rob and Brad’s travel stories, videos and insights on travelguide.wowair.com. And if you see them in Reykjavik, don’t forget to say hi!

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“The rest of the summer will find us in Brussels, St. Louis, Edinburgh and Stockholm before returning to Reykjavik to wrap up the summer. It’s definitely been a work hard, play hard kind of trip, but that’s pretty much our favorite way to do it! And WOW air has been great all along the way. “Welp, we gotta get back to researching cities and editing film! Now, where did that Aperol Spritz go...”

SPENNANDI VIÐBURÐIR FRAMUNDAN Í BÆJARBÍÓI

Kíktu á nýju heimasíðuna okkar www.bæjarbíó.is Tónlistar-og bæjarhátíðin

MIÐASALA ER HAFIN! TRYGGÐU ÞÉR MIÐA! Ö R FÁ I R

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Tónlistar-og bæjarhátíðin 29. ágúst – 2. september

2. SEPTEMBER BLÚSMENN ANDREU

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ALLIR VIÐBURÐIR Í BÆJARBÍÓI ERU Á MIDI.IS LÉT TÖL

Issue four 71

VATNAJÖKULL REGION

TIME FOR A SLOW ADVENTURE Take your time walking on Vatnajökull, the largest glacier in Europe and listen to stories about the natural history of the area. Sip hot chocolate made from thousand-year-old ice in the wilderness of Vatnajökull Glacier. Experience the culture and the history of Southeast Iceland through the family history of the local guides from the Vatnajökull Region. Experience nature while enjoying a traditional Icelandic soup cooked over an open fireplace. Immerse yourself in the Vatnajökull Region and experience all its beauty and awe through Slow Adventure journeys. by Arndís Lára Kolbrúnardóttir Photos: Courtesy of Visit Vatnajokull

WOW Power to the people

low Adventure is a form of responsible tourism with its primary emphasis on the great outdoors, local food and the native culture, portrayed through storytelling and local knowledge. It is about taking your time in a particular place, reconnecting with nature and creat ing memories through meaningful experiences. You can find Slow Adventure experie nces in seven different countries at the moment, one of them being Iceland. To learn more about Slow Adventure products visit www.slow adventure.org.

A BETTER CONNECTION The Vatnajökull Region is the first and as yet only area in Iceland to offer Slow Adventure experiences. On the Visit Vatnajökull website, you will find opportunities for glacier walking and ice cave exploring, kayaking over glacier lagoons, culture and food walking tours, and a tour to Hornafjörður hidden nature gems. These experiences are offered to you by family-run companies, employing local guides with deep, personal knowledge of the nature and culture of the area. The stories told are based on actual experiences, some from themselves and others that have

been passed down through family history. Everything from the way the tours are planned to the way the guides deliver their stories enables their guests to feel more connected to the areas where your adventures take place. If you feel like disconnecting from your day to day routine and seek the feeling of tranquility that comes with being in nature and its wild spaces,

if you want to engage with and und erstand a place’s history, culture and people, and if you enjoy eating delicious local food—Slow Adventure may be just right for you! Visit Vatnajökull offers a free booking service in cooperation with local tourism-related companies in the area. Their goal is to offer top-quality service to travelers, to make your stay enjoyable and memorable.

For more information and bookings go to visitvatnajokull.is and https://visitvatnajokull.is/slow-adventure Follow Visit Vatnajokull on Social Media: facebook.com/visitvatnajokull.is instagram.com/visitvatnajokull twitter.com/vatnajokull_reg

Issue four 73

Ísafjörður

Stykkishólmur

Borgarnes Akranes Geysir

Gullfoss

Hveragerði Reykjavík Reykjanesbær Kópavogur 2 stores

Garðabær Hafnarfjörður Mosfellsbær

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WOW Power to the people

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oss

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Issue four 75

WOW entrepreneurs

Getting on good footing Founded in September 2017, Smartsocks is a new venture in Iceland where color happy sock enthusiasts can get a new pair of socks delivered to their doorstep once a month. In this day and age simple black or white socks are becoming a thing of the past because, well, life is too short to wear boring socks. Photos: Courtesy of Smartsocks.is

Founders Guðmundur Már Ketilsson and Gunnsteinn Geirsson, who are both business educated, got the idea for their company after Guðmundur visited his friend in Denmark. “He told me that he and most of his colleagues at work had a sock subscription so we decided to investigate and discovered that this sort of service was available in many countries around us. We wanted to try it out for the Icelandic market and created the Smart Socks label,” says Guðmundur. A TREAT FOR YOUR FEET Customers of Smart Socks can choose between getting one or two new pairs of socks each month and they can also order different sizes so the two pair subscription works for couples or grown-ups and kids—no reason to keep all this colorful sock goodness to yourself! There aren’t any one-colored socks and each delivery is a happy surprise because cust omers can not pick and choose their next sock pattern. “We also offer subscriptions as gifts, which have been very popu lar. If you want to give someone the gift of new socks you can order a 3, 6 or 12-month plan, and we will send the socks to your recipient every month,” says Guðmundur. Well, that certainly is a gift that keeps on giving and we hear that this service has been a popular Christmas, confirmation and birthday present. It even works out great for office Secret Santa games because a 3-month subscription only costs 2,970 ISK. TIP TO TOE FASHION Smart Socks are made from 100% cotton and produced in China. “Before we began the business, we tested several sock factories and chose the one whose socks came out the best and had the most varied selection. They send us a brochure

WOW Power to the people

Founders Guðmundur Már Ketilsson and Gunnsteinn Geirsson, who are both business educated, got the idea for their company after Guðmundur visited his friend in Denmark.

every month with new patterns and by now we have chosen over 300 designs for our subscribers,” Smart Socks founders tell us. “There’s definitely a fashion when it comes to socks. We haven’t put on one-colored socks for years and there are even groups on Facebook that celebrate their self-proclaimed “sock fetish.” It doesn’t necessarily seem to be the color or the pattern that matters most, just that the pair is as unique and fun as possible,” Guðmundur tells us. Iceland’s president, Mr. Guðni Th. Jóhannesson is known for his love of colorful and fun socks and is perhaps a source of inspiration to sock-lovers around Iceland. Smart Socks sounds like a service made for the president. “As everyone knows, Guðni Th. Jóhannesson is a man of great taste and we are proud to say that he was one of the first to sign up for Smart Socks. He is thrilled to get his delivery of a new and colorful pair of socks every month at Bessastaðir Presidential House,” says Guðmundur.

SOCKS AROUND THE WORLD Smart Socks are suitable for both men and women so they don’t split their designs into male or female collections. “We just offer three different sizes for both men and women. We’re contemplating adding other designs such as ankle socks, children’s socks or sports socks, so who knows what the future holds in that regard,” explains Guðmundur. For such a young company, Smart Socks has been very well received. “It’s exceeded all our expectations and both subscribers and recipients of gift subscriptions have been very happy with their deliveries. The most common complaint we get is that there aren’t more deliveries per month. People are very excited to get

their socks.” Unfortunately, you can’t get Smart Socks deliveries outside Iceland but all that could change soon. “We’ve been looking into the matter and have received requests from abroad from companies who want to become distributors of Smart Socks. We’ve registered our trademark in Europe and are looking into distributors in Spain, Italy, France and Portugal. We’ve also had requests from Britain and Scandinavia and there are indicators that Smart Socks could go international later this year,” says Guðmundur. There ain't no cure for love, but there is a cure for the love of socks and that is getting your socks delivered to your doorstep every month.

Smart Socks’ colorful and surprising designs will literally knock your monotone socks off each month. To order a subscription go to smartsocks.is. For further inquiries, contact info@smartsocks.is

NO NEED TO WAIT FOR YOUR BAGS if you do what the locals do and pick up some duty free goods in the arrival store before your luggage www.dutyfree.is

THE DUTY FREE ALLOWANCE IS 6 UNITS OF ALCOHOL, ANY WAY YOU LIKE IT Use the duty free allowance calculator on our website, www.dutyfree.is, to determine how to make the best use of your allowance.

Issue four 77

Instagram arty

Seven key tips for taking great photos with your mobile All of us have used our phones to take photos—whether of our family, of a sunset, or of interesting sights along a walk or hike. But, sadly, they don’t always turn out great. That’s probably because many of us aren’t familiar with our phone’s capabilities, or how to enhance a photo without overdoing it. by Cindy-Lou Dale

Here is an example of focus. The first image demonstrates focus on the back left side of a flask of designer gin; in the second image I shifted focus to the front and the bottle of olive oil. To hone in on an object and blur everything else, touch the object on your screen. In the second image, I also brightened it.

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Manual Exposure: To focus on the chicken I tapped its image on-screen. Simultaneously a small sun icon appears which I swipe up to lighten the image.

Focus on the fun: If you’re taking a picture of scenery or something large, you don’t necessarily need to hone in on an object and focus on it, but if you are featuring let’s say a chocolate bar but you want to show where you are in the background, you need to focus on the object and have everything else somewhat blurred in the background. All that needs doing is to touch the object on your screen that you want to focus on, the rest will become blurry and what you touch will come to life and be what your eye is drawn to.

Zoom it: What I advise against is digital zooming. This is what happens when you pinch or swipe to zoom—the phone simply enlarges and crops the output from the sensor before the photo is captured, degrading the image quality.

Keep it clean: There’s no point trying to take great photos if the glass of the lens is dirty. It will block light from entering the camera’s sensor and leave smudges, blurs or dust spots on your images. A clean lens will ensure you get sharp, clear images. So be sure to wipe your lens before taking the shot-of-your-life. Otherwise, no one will believe that you really spotted a troll in Norway.

Adjust exposure manually: When you tap on the subject to focus on it, the camera will also use the focus point to set the exposure in the shot. Exposure simply refers to how bright or dark the image is. Allowing the camera to set exposure on the focus point isn’t always ideal. For example, if the subject is in a dark area of the frame, it could lead to the overall image being over-exposed. Most smartphones have a manual exposure tool which, when focused by tapping the screen, a small sun icon appears that simply needs swiping up or down to adjust the exposure slider.

Forget flash: Just don’t do it! Don’t use flash under any circumstances. It turns the prettiest locations into hostile environments, even little old ladies become scary monsters and it ruins the quality of the image.

Keep still: If you want perfect stability, it is possible to get a tripod attachment to slot your smartphone into. You’ll probably look a bit silly bringing a tripod out to use with your phone, but it will allow you to achieve some fantastic shots. Tripods are especially useful if your smartphone camera doesn’t include blur-reducing optical image stabilization (OIS), or if there’s a manual mode that supports longexposure photography. However, if you’d rather not go the tripod route, a key method for reducing blur is knowing how to hold a smartphone camera in a stable way. Holding your arms outstretched or far from your body could result in camera shake. Moving your elbows into the sides of your body can give a bit of extra stability where needed, as can physically resting the smartphone on a stable object. Be sure to shoot the picture with a screen tap and not the volume button as this will cause camera shake and use the self-timer. Speaking of volume buttons, some phones allow you to use the volume button on your headphones as a remote control for your camera.

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Editing: This is probably the most important part in enhancing your pictures, so they really stand out and look crystal clear. The funny thing is it’s probably the easiest part to do, but it took me a while to find the right (free) App and software. Firstly, you’ll need to download the App called Aviary. When you’ve taken your photograph touch the App and it will bring up all your photos. From there, tap the picture you want to edit and enhance, then tap further enhancers like “scenery,” “food,” or “portrait” if you are featuring a person and want to soften their features. But be careful; avoid over-processing. Always focus on taking a great shot rather than trying to fix later with an App.

15% Instead of zooming in on the Xmas decoration, I got real close—keeping the quality of the image. The second photo demonstrates zooming in. You can’t help but notice the poor picture quality.

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+354-560-8800 specialtours.is info@specialtours.is Issue four 79

s Declaration Fo

The U.S. Custom

Pour remplir ce formulaire, utilisez uniquement des majuscules. Si vous faites une erreur, notre personnel vous donnera un nouveau formulaire. Chaque voyageur entrant ou chef de famille entrant doit fournir les informations suivantes (UNE SEULE déclaration par famille)

What is this and why do I need to fill this out? Before you arrive in the U.S., you will need to fill out the US Customs Declaration Form. If you‘re traveling with your family only the head of the family needs to fill out the form. When you arrive on US soil you will hand this form to the U.S. Customs agent.

Français Le formulaire de déclaration en douane américaine

Qu’est-ce que c’est et pourquoi dois-je en remplir un? Avant votre arrivée aux États-Unis, vous devrez remplir le formulaire de déclaration en douane américaine. Si vous voyagez avec votre famille, seul le chef de famille doit le remplir. Lorsque vous arrivez sur le sol américain, vous donnez ce formulaire aux autorités douanières américaines. Si vous voyagez avec des fruits, nous vous recommandons de les jeter avant ou pendant votre vol vers les États-Unis mais que se passe-t-il si vous répondez « oui » à l’une de ces questions ? Ce n’est pas aussi terrible que ça en a l’air et dire la vérité vous évitera pas mal d’ennuis et une amende pouvant aller jusqu’à 300 $. Consultez la page 82 pour obtenir plus d’informations si vous répondez « OUI ».

browse and shop over 870 ICELANDIC BRANDS tax and duty free

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Nom, Prénom, Initiale du deuxième prénom.

Date de naissance Jour/Mois/Année.

Nombre de personnes voyageant avec vous.

(a) Adresse Aux États-Unis (Destination ou nom de l‘hôtel) (b) Ville (c) Etat

Lieu de délivrace du passeport (nom du pays)

Numéro de passeport

Pays de résidence

Pays visités pendant ce voyage avant l‘arrivée aux aux Etats-Unis

9. Ligne aérienne / numéro du vol / Nom de vaisseau 10. Vous voyagez pour raison d‘affaires: OUI/NON 11.

Je suis / nous sommes porteurs de (a) fruits, plantes, produits alimentaires, insectes: OUI/NON (b) viandes, animaux, produits provenant d‘animaux ou d’animaux sauvages: OUI/NON (c) agents pouvant causer des maladies, cultures cellulaires, escargots: OUI/NON

This Space For Official Use Only

U.S. Customs and Border Protection Welcomes You to the United States

(d) terre. J‘ai / Nous avons visité une exploitation agricole en dehors des Etats-Unis: OUI/NON

12. J‘ai / nous avons touché ou traité du bétail: OUI/NON 13.

Je suis / nous sommes porteurs d‘espèces ou d‘instruments monétaires d‘une valeur équivalente en monnaie des États Unis ou de tout autre pays (Voir définition d‘instruments monétaire au verso) á plus de 10 000$ US: OUI/NON

14.

Je suis / nous sommes en possession de marchandises commerciales (articles des tinés à la vente, échantillon de démonstration ou tout autre article autresque des effets personnels): OUI/NON

15.

Résidents - la valeur totale des biens, y compris la marchandise commerciale, que j’ai/nous avons achetés ou acquis à l’étranger (y compris les cadeaux pour une autre personne, mais pas les articles envoyés aux États-Unis) et que je/ nous rapportons aux États-Unisest de: montant en USD

Visiteurs - La valeur totale de tous les articles qui resteront aux États-Unis, y compris la marchandise commerciale est de : USD Signez sur la ligne pour déclarer que votre déclaration est véridique.

Customs Declaration

FORM APPROVED OMB NO.1651-0009

19 CFR 122.27, 148.12, 148.13, 148.110, 148.111, 1498; 31 CFR 5316

Each arriving traveler or responsible family member must provide the following information (only ONE written declaration per family is required). The term "family" is defined as "members of a family residing in the same household who are related by blood, marriage, domestic relationship, or adoption." 1 Family Name Middle

First (Given) 2 Birth date

Month

Day

Year

3 Number of Family members traveling with you 4 (a) U.S. Street Address (hotel name/destination) (b) City 5 Passport issued by (country) 6 Passport number 7 Country of Residence 8 Countries visited on this trip prior to U.S. arrival 9 Airline/Flight No. or Vessel Name Yes

(a) fruits, vegetables, plants, seeds, food, insects:

Yes

(b) meats, animals, animal/wildlife products:

Yes

(d) soil or have been on a farm/ranch/pasture:

Yes

12 I have (We have) been in close proximity of livestock: Yes

11 I am (We are) bringing

(such as touching or handling) 13 I am (We are) carrying currency or monetary instruments over $10,000 U.S. or foreign equivalent:

Yes

(articles for sale, samples used for soliciting orders, or goods that are not considered personal effects)

15 RESIDENTS—the total value of all goods, including commercial merchandise I/we have purchased or acquired abroad, (including gifts for someone else but not items mailed to $ the U.S.) and am/are bringing to the U.S. is: VISITORS—the total value of all articles that will remain in the U.S., including commercial merchandise is:

Was ist das und warum muss ich dieses Formular ausfüllen?

The transportation of currency or monetary instruments, regardless of the amount, is legal. However, if you bring in to or take out of the United States more than $10,000 (U.S. or foreign equivalent, or a combination of both), you are required by law to file a report on FinCEN 105 (formerly Customs Form 4790) with U.S. Customs and Border Protection. Monetary instruments include coin, currency, travelers checks and bearer instruments such as personal or cashiers checks and stocks and bonds. If you have someone else carry the currency or monetary instrument for you, you must also file a report on FinCEN 105. Failure to file the required report or failure to report the total amount that you are carrying may lead to the seizure of all the currency or monetary instruments, and may subject you to civil penalties and/or criminal prosecution. SIGN ON THE OPPOSITE SIDE OF THIS FORM AFTER YOU HAVE READ THE IMPORTANT INFORMATION ABOVE AND MADE A TRUTHFUL DECLARATION.

Wenn Sie auf Ihrer Reise Obst mit sich führen, empfehlen wir Ihnen, dies vor oder während dem Flug in die USA zu entsorgen. Aber was geschieht, wenn Sie eine dieser Fragen mit Ja beantworten? Das ist nicht so schrecklich, wie Sie vielleicht denken, und Ehrlichkeit spart Ihnen eine Menge Ärger und eine mögliche Geldstrafe von bis zu 300$. Siehe Seite 82 für weitere Informationen zur Antwort JA.

Bitte verwenden Sie beim Ausfüllen dieses Formulars nur Großbuchstaben. Falls Sie einen Fehler machen wird Ihnen unsere Crew ein neues CBP (List may continue on another CBP Form 6059B) Value Use Only Formular geben. Jeder ankommende Reisende bzw. jedes verantwortliche Familienmitglied muss die folgenden Angaben machen (es ist pro Familie nur EINE schriftliche Erklärung erforderlich) 1.

Familienname, Vorname, Zweiter Vorname

Geburtsdatum / Tag/Monat/Jahr Total

Read the instructions on the back of this form. Space is provided to list all the items you must declare. I HAVE READ THE IMPORTANT INFORMATION ON THE REVERSE SIDE OF THIS FORM AND HAVE MADE A TRUTHFUL DECLARATION.

X Signature

Die US-amerikanische Zollerklärung

Description of Articles

(see definition of monetary instruments on reverse) 14 I have (We have) commercial merchandise:

Deutsch

Vor der Ankunft in den USA müssen Sie das Formular der US-Zoller klärung ausfüllen. Wenn Sie mit Ihrer Familie unterwegs sind, braucht nur das Familienoberhaupt dieses Formular ausfüllen. Wenn Sie US-Boden betreten, übergeben Sie dieses Formular dem US-Zoll.

10 The primary purpose of this trip is business:

U.S. Customs and Border Protection is responsible for protecting the United States against the illegal importation of prohibited items. CBP officers have the authority to question you and to examine you and your personal property. If you are one of the travelers selected for an examination, you will be treated in a courteous, professional, and dignified manner. CBP Supervisors and Passenger Service Representatives are available to answer your questions. Comment cards are available to compliment or provide feedback. Important Information U.S. Residents—declare all articles that you have acquired abroad and are bringing into the United States. Visitors (Non-Residents)—Declare the value of all articles that will remain in the United States. Declare all articles on this declaration form and show the value in U.S. dollars. For gifts, please indicate the retail value. Duty—CBP officers will determine duty. U.S. residents are normally entitled to a duty-free exemption of $800 on items accompanying them. Visitors (non-residents) are normally entitled to an exemption of $100. Duty will be assessed at the current rate on the first $1,000 above the exemption. Agricultural and Wildlife Products—To prevent the entry of dangerous agricultural pests and prohibited wildlife, the following are restricted: Fruits, vegetables, plants, plant products, soil, meat, meat products, birds, snails, and other live animals or animal products. Failure to declare such items to a Customs and Border Protection Officer/ Customs and Border Protection Agriculture Specialist/Fish and Wildlife Inspector can result in penalties and the items may be subject to seizure. Controlled substances, obscene articles, and toxic substances are generally prohibited entry.

Date (month/day/year)

CBP Form 6059B (04/14)

3. Anzahl der mit Ihnen reisenden Familienmitglieder PAPERWORK REDUCTION ACT STATEMENT: An agency may not conduct or sponsor an information collection and a person is not required to respond to this information unless it displays a current valid OMB control number. The control number for this collection is 1651-0009. The estimated average time to complete this application is 4 minutes. Your response is mandatory. If you have any comments regarding the burden estimate you can write to U.S. Customs and Border Protection Office of Regulations and Rulings, 90 K Street, NE, 10th Floor, Washington, DC 20229.

(a) Adresse/genaue Anschrift in den USA (Name des Hotels/Reiseziel) (b) Stadt CBP Form 6059B (04/14) (c) Staat

KEF airport is the busy place to be. And because it’s the only shopping centre in Iceland that allows suitcases, you can skip waiting and start shopping. Be fashionably early.

W W W. K E FA I R P O R T. I S

Issue four 81

s Declaration Fo

The U.S. Custom 5.

Pass ausgestellt von (Land)

Passnummer

Ständiger Wohnsitz (Land)

Auf dieser Reise besuchte Länder vor Ihrer Ankunft in den USA

(c) Krakheitserreger, Zellkulturen, Schnecken: JA/NEIN (d) Erde, oder waren Sie auf einem Bauernhof/ einer Ranch/ Weide: JA/NEIN 12. Ich war (wir waren) in unmittelbarer Nähe von Vieh/ Nutztieren (z.B. Anfassen oder Umgang damit): JA/NEIN

9. Fluggesellschaft/Flugnummer oder Name des Schiffes 10. Der Hauptanlass dieser Reise ist geschäftlich: JA/NEIN 11. Ich (wir) führen folgende Waren ein: (a) Früchte, Pflanzen, Lebensmittel, Insekten: JA/NEIN (b) Fleisch, Tiere, Tier- oder Wildprodukte: JA/NEIN

13.

Ich führe (wir führen) mehr als $US 10,000 in Bargeld oder Zahlungsmitteln oder den Gegenwert in anderen ausländischen Währungen mit (Siehe die Definition von Gegenstände zum persönlichen Gebrauch gelten): JA/NEIN

14. Ich führe (wir führen) kommerzielle Waren mit. (Verkaufsware, Muster zur Werbung von

Aufträgen oder Artikel, die nicht als Gegenstände zum persönlichen Gebrauch gelten): JA/NEIN

15.

US-Bürger - der Gesamtwert aller Waren, einschließlich Handelswaren die ich/wir erworben habe(n) oder im Ausland erworben habe(n) (einschließlich Geschenke für andere, nicht aber Sendungen in die USA) und in die USA einführe(n) lautet: Betrag in US-$ Besucher - der Gesamtwert aller Artikel einschließlich Handelswaren, die in den USA verbleiben ist: $

Auf der Linie unterschreiben, um zu erklären, dass Sie eine wahrheitsgemäße Erklärung abgeben.

What happens if you say “Yes”? Sometimes we just want to avoid trouble and think that saying NO to everything will make things easier. That’s not the case and in fact, it can even cause more problems, delays and even fines. Be truthful on your Customs Declaration form and all will be good. Worst case scenario they’ll confiscate your banana but we promise you can buy a new one once you’re out of the airport. Yes to 11 (a), (b) or (c) Your customs officer will refer you to an agricultural specialist who will ask you additional questions and might ask to inspect your food items. In many cases, you’ll be allowed to take your food with you. This often depends on where you got the food and how it’s been processed. Fruits, vegetables and raw meats are usually confiscated. You can research ahead of time at canibringit.com which is a U.S. Government run site. Yes to 11 (d) and/or no. 12: An agricultural specialist will ask to inspect the soil or clothes, shoes or luggage that has been in contact with livestock or farm soil to determine if they contain any dangerous organisms. If they find potentially dangerous substances they will disinfect your items before allowing you to bring them in. For bringing soil into the US, you need a permit. Yes to no. 13 or 14: If you are carrying currency worth over $10,000 you will simply be given a special form to fill out for the Treasury Department. For items intended for sale, you should have already filed a “formal entry” before embarking on your journey. You could do so “on the spot” but these matters are subject to many rules and regulations and can be complicated.

Français

Deutsch

Le formulaire de déclaration en douane américaine

Die US-amerikanische Zollerklärung

Que se passe-t-il si vous répondez « OUI » ?

Was passiert, wenn Sie JA sagen?

Certaines personnes semblent penser que répondre « non » à toutes les réponses leur évitera des ennuis. Ce n’est pas le cas et en fait, cela peut même vous causer plus de problèmes, des retards et des amendes. Dites la vérité sur votre formulaire de déclaration en douane et tout ira bien. Dans le pire des cas, ils confisqueront votre banane mais promis, vous pourrez en acheter une nouvelle à votre arrivée à l’aéroport.

Einige Leute nehmen an, dass sie keinerlei Ärger bekommen, wenn sie überall NEIN sagen. Das ist nicht so. Tatsächlich kann dies sogar mehr Probleme, Verzögerungen und sogar Geldbußen verursachen. Seien Sie bei Ihrer Zollerklärung ehrlich, und alles wird gut. Im schlimmsten Fall konfisziert man Ihre Banane, aber wir versprechen Ihnen, dass Sie sich eine neue kaufen können, sobald Sie den Flughafen verlassen haben.

Oui aux questions 11 (a), (b) ou (c) Votre agent douanier vous dirigera vers un spécialiste agricole qui vous posera des questions supplémentaires et qui pourra inspecter vos fruits. Dans de nombreux cas, vous sera autorisé à garder votre nourriture. Cela dépend souvent de la provenance la nourriture et de la façon dont elle a été transformée. Les fruits, les légumes et la viande crue sont généralement confisqués. Vous pouvez faire des recherches avant de partir sur le site canibright.com qui est un site du gouvernement américain. Oui aux questions 11 (d) et/ou 12 : Un spécialiste agricole inspectera la terre ou les vêtements, les chaussures ou les bagages qui ont été en contact avec du bétail ou le sol d’une ferme pour déterminer la présence d’organismes dangereux. S’il trouve des substances potentiellement dangereuses, il désinfectera vos objets avant de vous laisser les garder. Pour importer de la terre aux États-Unis, il vous faut un permis. Oui aux questions 13 ou 14 : Si vous transportez des devises d’une valeur supérieure à 10 000 $, vous devrez simplement remplir un formulaire spécial pour le ministère des finances. Pour les objets destinés à être vendus, vous devriez déjà avoir rempli un « formulaire d’entrée officielle » avant de prendre votre vol. Vous pouvez faire cela sur place mais ce genre de chose est soumis à de nombreuses règles et règlementations et peut être compliqué.

WOW Power to the people

Ja zu 11 (a), (b) oder (c) Ihr Zollbeamter wird Sie an einen Spezialisten für landwirtschaftliche Produkte weiterverweisen, der Ihnen zusätzliche Fragen stellen wird und evtl. darum bittet, Ihre Lebensmittel inspizieren zu dürfen. In vielen Fällen wird man Ihnen erlauben, Ihr Essen mitzunehmen. Oft hängt es davon ab, wo Sie die Lebensmittel erworben haben und wie sie verarbeitet wurden. Obst, Gemüse und rohes Fleisch werden in der Regel beschlagnahmt. Sie können vor Abflug auf der Website der US-Regierung canibringit.com nachlesen, was erlaubt ist. Ja bei 11 (d) und/oder Nr. 12: Ein Spezialist für landwirtschaftliche Produkte wird Sie darum bitten, die Erde oder die Kleidung, Schuhe oder das Gepäck inspizieren zu dürfen, welche(s) in Kontakt mit Tieren oder landwirtschaftlichem Boden war, um zu bestimmen, ob diese gefährliche Organismen enthalten. Wenn er potenziell gefährliche Stoffe findet, werden Ihre Gegenstände desinfiziert, bevor Sie die Erlaubnis erhalten, diese einzuführen. Für das Einführen von Erde in die USA benötigen Sie eine Genehmigung. Ja bei Nr. 13 oder 14: Wenn Sie Bargeld im Wert von mehr als $10.000 mit sich führen, erhalten Sie einfach ein besonderes Formular, das Sie für das US Finanzministerium ausfüllen müssen. Für Gegenstände, die für den Verkauf vorgesehen sind, sollten Sie bereits vor Ihrer Abreise eine „formelle Einfuhrgenehmigung“ einholen. Sie tun könnten dies auch „vor Ort“ erledigen, aber diese Vorgänge unterliegen vielen Regeln und können sehr kompliziert sein.

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Issue four 83

WOW Power to the people

Words of art

Poetry brothels in North America and Europe The concept of a poetry brothel has existed for a decade now and has made its way around the world. Founded in New York City by the poets Stephanie Berger and Nicholas Adamski, the idea has spread far and wide, to cities in North and South America, and the major cities of Europe—even to tiny Reykjavík. But what exactly is a poetry brothel? by Nanna Gunnars Photos: Roberto Serrini, Courtesy of Rauða Skáldahúsið Poetry Brothel and courtesy of The Poetry Brothel New York.

he founders felt that regular poetry nights had become rather stiff and boring—overlit events where poets would read out poetry in a dry way and audience members would sit still. Basically, that poetry had lost its joie de vivre. Although poetry slams have made a name for themselves and shown that poetry is enjoyed by the masses, Berger and Adamski were not attracted to its competition element. They were bored at poetry evenings and thought to themselves that if even career poets aren’t entertained, then there’s no way to reach audiences that are not usually into poetry. To counteract that, they wanted to make a really fun evening where poems would be given out in private to audience members, and include live music, dance and entertainment. RENT A POET And so the poetry brothel was born. The main idea is that here poets can be bought and give out private readings. That way value is given to the poetry and the poets themselves are paid, an uncommon notion within the poetry world. The idea to marry poetry with a brothel came to Berger when she was writing her thesis on New Orleans sex workers. As she reckons, these two old professions have a lot in common; both sex and poetry deal with intimacy, fantasy and desire. The setting of a bordello at the turn of the century is also a fun one to play with. Guests immediately understand the structure and know that in order to get a private moment with a poet, a fee must be paid. Each evening has a theme, and each poet performs within a constructed character. A madame welcomes guests into the poetry brothel and introduces both the poets and the performers of the night. The poets may be young and up-and-coming, or more established ones. Most of the time there is one or two main poets, that are specially selected and honored. These are published authors, or perhaps even Nobel Prize Laureates. The performers vary as well but can include burlesque dancers, tarot readers, aerialists, magicians, circus performers and painters. Perhaps you’ll run into singers offering private songs for a fee, or enjoy a spectacular drag act on stage. Have your face or body painted or get a sketch of yourself. And then there is a live band and an open dance floor, and of course, the bar is open all night. Each poetry brothel will have its own style—while the one in Barcelona pops up frequently in smaller shops and cafés all around town, the one in Reykjavík is held year-quarterly in one of the city’s oldest theaters, Iðnó. The original one in New York travels quite a bit, but its home base is The Back Room bar. AN INTIMATE AFFAIR Although brothels conjure up feelings of being vulgar and dirty, it was at these seedy locations where intellectuals, painters, poets and artists would gather at the fin-de-siècle. Art forms such as Issue four 85

Words of art

jazz and tango dancing have their roots in illicit establishments, and speakeasy’s of the 1920’s with their cabaret entertainment have an air of excitement around them that audiences are attracted to. Any notion of being proper, uptight, stuffy or upper class doesn’t work at the poetry brothels. Here performers and guests feel free and liberated, although some may occasionally feel ill at ease. After all, it can be scary, wondrous, awkward or romantic to have someone read to you in private. Giving a private reading, or receiving one, is very intimate and can raise all sorts of emotions; fear, lust, self-consciousness, happiness or even anger or sadness depending on one’s mood and which poem is chosen. But it’s that moment that makes it all so special, especially in this day and age where people are so used to interacting with one another through a computer screen or social media. Being led up a staircase, sat down on a pillow with a flickering candlelight next to you and looking into the eyes of a stranger while being recited their innermost thoughts in prose is an intimate moment that’s hard to come by elsewhere. And perhaps it’s the main reason why people return again and again to relive the fantasy. The original poetry brothel is from New York City, but you can now find spin-offs or different chapters all across the world. The New York group also tour extensively around the US so you might also find them at festivals. Otherwise, there are regular shows in San Francisco, Los Angeles and New Orleans. And if you head to Canada, you can find a local poetry brothel at Edmonton. There are several spread across Europe. So if you’re heading to Barcelona, Dublin, Paris, London, Utrecht, Berlin or Reykjavík, be sure to check out the local poetry brothel scene; they are all active on social media.

Upcoming shows: New York City: 7th of September at the Cutting Room in NYC, and 26th of September at The Back Room. thepoetrybrothel.com Reykjavík: Next event will take place in October, date TBC. raudaskaldahusid.com Barcelona: Very frequent performances, find the next one on prostibulopoetico.com Paris: lebordeldelapoesie.com Belgium: poeziebordeel.be

WOW Power to the people

A WARM WELCOME Fur store and workshop Feldur is a family run fur brand that specializes in design and production of high quality fur products. The shop and workshop is located in the heart of ReykjavĂk where you will find a wide collection of fur products. Inside you can also see the furrier at work, altering and repairing old fur coats and making new products.

Issue four 87

Store and Workshop | Snorrabraut 56, 105 ReykjavĂk | Collection and online shop www.feldur.is

Steel City cuisine

WOW Power to the people

Savoring the new flavors of Pittsburgh There’s a new creative energy at work helping to redefine Pittsburgh’s food and drink scene. Chefs, brewers and craft distillers are delivering inspired new flavors and tasting experiences. by Tom O'Connor

ittsburgh is a great place for mapp ing out a culinary adventure and a healthy dose of day drinking, and its manageable size makes it easier to navigate around Pittsburgh’s unique neighborhoods. Each one with its own mix of old and new is worth exploring. Whether a person is new to the city or not there‘s a lot of new places: Busy Lawrenceville is where you’ll find a lot of new restaurants and breweries. Other nearby popular destinations include the Strip District, the East End and downtown. Why are chefs and brewers thriving here? Start-up costs are lower in Pitts burgh making it an attractive option for entrepreneurs—an easier place to take a creative culinary leap than say, Brooklyn. It’s also more collaborative than competitive. Local products feature prominently on menus all around town. TASTE THE BEST LOCAL SPIRITS Independent distilleries are booming thanks to changes in state laws. Tasting rooms are all around the city, but Wigle Whiskey and Maggie’s Farm Rum should be at the top of any list. Both offer enjoyable adventures for imbibing.

Independent distilleries are booming thanks to changes in state laws. Tasting rooms are all around the city, but Wigle Whiskey and Maggie’s Farm Rum should be at the top of any list. Both offer enjoyable adventures for imbibing.

you take it all in. For the more adventurous, there’s a “Be Your Own Bartender” menu option where you decide the recipe. Behindthe-scenes tours of the Wigle Distillery and Barrelhouse are also available.

The large copper stills are the first thing you see walking into the tasting room, which is more like a bar. Painkillers, Maggie’s Dark ‘n Stormy and other rum classics are on the cocktail menu. Rum “tasting flights” are a good call here so you can sample the different rum varieties like spiced and aged. The tasting flight includes Falernum, a rumbased liquor made with fresh limes, ginger and cloves. If you’re not familiar with this Barbados-born tiki drink staple, Maggie’s version is the one to try. One sip feels like an escape to the tropics. NOTHING BUT THE BREWS

Rum lovers can get their fix at the Allegheny Distilling tasting room, home of Maggie’s Farm Rum. This urban distillery is racking up awards for its unique Pennsylvania-made craft rum. Its low-key tasting room on the outskirts of the Strip District can be a little hard to find. But once you do, it feels like you’ve discovered a secret speakeasy—a hidden gem in the city. Only a few blocks from Wigle’s Strip District tasting room, visiting both in one day is easy.

Pittsburgh has always been a beer town. It’s even more so now with craft brewers discovering a fan base willing to sample every brew sent their way. Breweries draw crowds in every part of the city from Grist House in Millvale to Voodoo Brewery in Homestead. But Lawrenceville has one of the biggest concentrations right now. Roundabout Brewery is a consistent favorite with beer lovers. The tap menu has frequent changes and the tasting room is friendly and comfortable. The knowledgeable

Pennsylvania is the home of American whiskey. Hometown favorite, Wigle Whiskey, celebrates this history with a very successful grain-to-bottle opera tion. It’s now the most awarded craft distillery in the U.S. producing not only whiskey but gin and other spirits. They make everything using local, organic ingredients. One impressive example is their Monongahela Rye made from locally raised grains. So smooth and flavorful, this rye even wins over non-whiskey lovers. Wigle has three tasting rooms in the city: downtown, in the Strip District and on the North Side. There’s a candy store feeling when you walk into Wigle. Maybe it’s the bright shelves lined with handsome bottles in vibrant colors or the intriguing names like Afterglow Ginger Whiskey and Absent Minded Absinthe. Whatever it is, you soon want to taste everything. The staff is ready to help you do just that. They’ll even serve you a Wigle cocktail like a barrel-aged classic Sazerac or a Gin Spritz to enjoy as Issue four 89

Steel City cuisine staff helps customers hone in on their favorites. Some people talk about it as the brewer’s brewery. Roundabout’s creations make appearances on beer and restaurant menus throughout the city. Two of their most popular brews worth trying right now include a coconut porter and ginger-flavored Ginga Wheat. New on the scene, Cinderlands Beer Co. is already making a splash with its milkshake IPAs. These hazy brews are made with lactose for a full body, vanilla and fruity hops. If you like milkshakes and you like beer, you might have a head start with this one. The Cinderlands’ beer menu offers both straightforward and experimental options. There’s even a “Dad Beer” category. A wide range of locally-sourced food options is also part of the Cinderlands’ concept. Delicious Scotch eggs, pierogis and kielbasa make for perfect beer tasting companions. HIT THE HOTTEST DINING SPOTS Nowadays, French bistro Poulet Bleu is the restaurant with the most buzz. It’s the latest in a string of successful eateries from Pittsburgh native, Richard DeShantz and his partner Tolga Sevdik.

The busy restauranteurs create unique dining concepts. Interesting visuals and comfortable ambiance are always important elements in their restaurants. “Poulet Bleu reinforces why French bistros became so popular in the first place,” says Melissa McCart, food reporter for The Pittsburgh PostGazette. “It’s refined yet casual, with crowd-pleasing dishes rooted in classic French technique: pate and foie gras, frisee and steak frites, pot au feu, and a glorious chocolate soufflé. Tailored decor, unusual wines, polished service and a perfect soundtrack round out the experience.” Chef Justin Severino’s Morcilla was named one of the best new restaurants in the U.S. by Bon Appétit magazine. This Spanish taverna salutes the independent Basque region of Northern Spain. Mouthwatering tapas and charcuterie are presented here with skill and creativity. Be sure not to miss the tantalizing bar menu of Spanish-inspired cocktails. Chef Dennis Marron brings an East Coast vibe with the Merchant Oyster Co. in Lawrenceville. The cozy chowder house features clam stuffies, crab cakes

The large copper stills are the first thing you see walking into the tasting room, which is more like a bar. Painkillers, Maggie’s Dark ‘n Stormy and other rum classics are on the cocktail menu. Rum “tasting flights” are a good call here so you can sample the different rum varieties like spiced and aged. The tasting flight includes Falernum, a rum-based liquor made with fresh limes, ginger and cloves. If you’re not familiar with this Barbados-born tiki drink staple, Maggie’s version is the one to try. One sip feels like an escape to the tropics.

and lobster rolls. There’s always a variety of fresh oysters on the menu. Muddy Waters Oyster Bar is already a city favorite with its menu of southern, Cajunstyle cooking. Located in the tech hub neighborhood of East Liberty, the owners recently added two new food concepts on each side. To the left is a fresh poke and juice bar called Kahuna. To the right is Bird On The Run, a Nashville-style hot fried chicken spot that features what is, hands down, the city’s best chicken sandwich. FIND THE PERFECT PLACE TO CHILL OUT Millie’s Homemade Ice Cream is what happens when a simple idea meets culinary inspiration. Chef Chad Townsend leaned on his fine dining experience to create an ice cream shop featuring bold and exciting flavors like Szechuan roasted peach, Vietnamese coffee and cantaloupe tarragon. Owner Phat Nguyen transformed a dusty old motorcycle repair shop in Lawrenceville into a go-to coffee spot called Ineffable Ca Phe. The Vietnamese coffee and sandwich shop with a relaxed vibe has USB ports in every booth so you can work, hang out and recharge all day. Rooftop beer gardens like Il Tetto and Biergarten at Hotel Monaco (both downtown) are great rooftop destinations. Both are popular spots for soaking up Pittsburgh’s late summer and early Fall vibes.

Don’t pass up a chance to steal away to Steel City and taste all the goodness. When you get there, order one for us too. WOW air offers cheap flights to Pittsburgh from around Europe up to 5 times a week.

WOW Power to the people

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Issue four 91

New Delhi delights

Food affair in India Everyone loves Indian food but even the most advanced connoisseurs might find themselves a bit lost when they go out to dine in New Delhi. Brush up on your Indian food basics and treat your palate to a divine journey to Delhi. by Guðrún Baldvina Sævarsdóttir Photos: iStockphoto.com

WOW Power to the people

Issue four 93

New Delhi delights

egetables are a defining feature in Indian cuisine and the variety of vegetarian dishes is immense. Apparently, there are more vegetarians in India than there are in the rest of the world combined. Indian cuisine is all about curry and by that we don’t mean a bland yellow sauce used as a sorry excuse for a condiment in the Western Hemisphere, but rather an incredibly spicy and wonderfully flavorful paste used to cook all manners of food. THE CURRY Curry is an umbrella term referring to a variety of spice blends that while similar in base vary across regions in India. We recommend tourists asking for a mild version of these Indian dishes since unschooled tummies can have a difficult time figuring out these spice bombs. You will most likely be served a glorious taste unlike any other you’ve experienced before and we highly recommend you try as many varieties in as many restaurants as possible. THE VEGETABLES India’s vegetable culture is so prominent that most restaurants have a sign indicating if they do serve meat. You’ll see this sign “Non-vegetarian” outside some restaurants, which means that they ALSO have something for the meateaters among us. While vegetarianism is mandatory or encouraged in some of India’s many religions (Jainism, Buddhism and Hinduism, respectively), many yogapracticing Indians see this simply as a healthier lifestyle choice. As a result, India is a real culinary paradise for vegetarian tourists who should have the easiest time eating out during their travels.

WOW Power to the people

THE SAUCE One of the staples of the Indian curry dish is a special yogurt sauce condiment called raita. It comes in many different versions with different vegetables or herbs, like cucumber, mint or carrots. But regardless of the version you pick, it always serves the same purpose. Aside from being incredibly tasty, it does an amazing job of cooling the mouth and settling the stomach, a welcome treat if your Indian dish truly packs a punch. Don’t miss out on the raita. It’s as helpful as it is delicious. THE NAAN Naan bread usually needs no introduction but if you’re a total noob in world cuisine, we’ll go ahead and indulge you. Naan bread is a flatbread, cooked in a tandoori oven, and yes, tandoori ovens are what tandoori dishes are named after. Naan bread is a wonderful bread for those lucky enough to handle their gluten and it’s also a brilliant option for those who are struggling not to lick the delicious sauce off their plate in public. But the naan is only one of very many varieties of Indian flatbreads and crepes, most common of which is roti. Go for Indian bread as often as you can. They too are a world of their own with endless varieties, and you should strive to sample them all. New Delhi is home to both delicious fast foods and glorious 16-course set menus, and you can travel far and wide in both price and quality. This is no place to be on a diet and like so many things in India the food here is simply divine. Use your best judgment when it comes to street food, don’t miss out on what the locals recommend, taste as many flavors as you can and above all: Enjoy! That’s really what India is all about.

India’s vegetable culture is so prominent that most restaurants have a sign indicating if they do serve meat. You’ll see this sign “Non-vegetarian” outside some restaurants, which means that they ALSO have something for the meat-eaters among us.

Lovers of Indian food rejoice! New Delhi has everything you’re looking for and more. WOW air now offers cheap flights to India from both North America and Europe with a stopover in Iceland. You’ll find your New Delhi flight at wowair.com.

“The Icelandic Museum of Rock 'n' Roll is as eccentric in its telling as the tale it celebrates.” David Fricke, Rolling Stone.

THE ICELANDIC MUSEUM OF ROCK 'N' ROLL

Visit Iceland's largest music museum and enjoy our history of Icelandic rock and pop music. Browse through the timeline of Icelandic pop and rock music with the Rock 'n' Roll app on Ipads, spend time in our soundlab, cinema, karaoke booth, gift store, exhibitions or simply grab a cup of coffee at our café (free wifi!).

The museum is located in Keflavík only 5 minutes away from Keflavík International Airport. Open daily from 11am - 6pm For more go to rokksafn.is

The Icelandic Museum of Rock 'n' Roll

Issue four 95

Lively, young and hip

he art scene in Toronto is lively, young and hip. Art galleries were built around the famed Toronto School of Art in the 1970s. A burgeoning strip of galleries followed on Queen Street West. Today, the art scene is vibrant all over the city with over 200 art venues and museums. Here are the top places to hit.

A guide to the Toronto art scene Although Toronto is not the capital of Canada (that’s Ottawa), it certainly is the biggest metropolis as a city with 6 million people, loads of pigeons, and condos which multiply as soon as you turn your back. Facing Lake Ontario and just a five-hour drive from Detroit, Toronto is best known as the “city of neighborhoods,” as it has 240 different districts. This is great for foodies—Little Italy, Little India and Chinatown have the grub. Also not to miss is the east end of Cabbagetown and the bustling Annex along Bloor Street, which has the Bloor Cinema. by Nadja Sayej Photos: iStockphoto.com

WOW Power to the people

TIFF LIGHTBOX This is the official exhibition space for the annual Toronto International Film Festival, which descends upon the city every September. During the rest of the year, this cultural hotspot on King Street is a must-see hotspot for cinephiles, as the TIFF Lightbox also features year-round exhibitions themed around cinema, as well as screenings in comfy seats, a bar and a restaurant. www.tiff.net

ART GALLERY OF ONTARIO Designed by renowned architect Frank Gehry, this sprawling museum is a city landmark. Stop by to see the latest exhibition in contemporary art or browse the Canadian art collection, which features paintings by the Group of Seven, Emily Carr and recent works by David Altmejd. www.ago.net

Although Toronto is not the capital of Canada (that’s Ottawa), it certainly is the biggest metropolis as a city with 6 million people, loads of pigeons, and condos which multiply as soon as you turn your back.

POWER PLANT For the past 30 years, this art space has garnered the reputation for being a cutting-edge institution for contemporary art. Set in a former electric power plant, it is crowned by a tall tower on the city’s harbor front, facing Lake Ontario. Don’t miss their annual Power Ball fundraising gala, which combines music, theater and art to highlight some of the city’s best talents. www.thepowerplant.org

MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART This city museum recently relocated into a former industrial building in the Junction Triangle area with a new exhibition schedule, which continues to show young, Canadian talents along with international stars, like New York photographer David LaChapelle and Sherri Hay. museumofcontemporaryart.ca

401 RICHMOND To take a break from the larger cultural institutions in Toronto and check out this restored heritage building That’s filled with small art galleries. Set on Richmond Street, there are artist studios, an artist-run cafe, a video artthemed art space, commercial art galleries and photography-centered art exhibition spaces.

Facing Lake Ontario and just a five-hour drive from Detroit, Toronto is best known as the “city of neighborhoods,” as it has 240 different districts. This is great for foodies—Little Italy, Little India and Chinatown have the grub. Also not to miss is the east end of Cabbagetown and the bustling Annex along Bloor Street, which has the Bloor Cinema.

DRAKE HOTEL Much more than just a hotel, this cultural institution has an exhibition space, concert venue, rooftop bar and curated art shop, which sells one-of-a-kind artistmade pieces alongside limited-edition ornaments, accessories and clothing. thedrakehotel.ca

CHELSEA HOTEL For a comfortable stay, book a room at the Chelsea Hotel on Gerrard Street West. It has a sleek, modern design in classic Toronto architecture and boasts being Canada’s largest hotel with over 1,500 guest rooms. On the rooftop, there’s a pool overlooking the city skyline, a health club with a sauna and a Family Fun Zone with a circular waterslide called the “corkscrew.” The morning brunch offers endless variety, from pancakes with maple syrup to traditional Canadian hash browns and over 7 different kinds of coffee. www.chelseatoronto.ca

WOW air offers cheap flights to Toronto from around Europe every day of the week, all year round. Don’t miss out on great art in Queen City. Follow our guide to Toronto’s Art Scene and be in the know.

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Issue four 97

Go the other way in the UK

Brighton rocks Brighton is a bohemian university city, on the Sussex coast, less than 50-minutes from Gatwick. Its Regency architecture, kitsch shops and tranquil green spaces have made it popular with the creative new media crowd, who commonly refer to it as Silicon Beach. by Cindy-Lou Dale

righton is also renowned as one of Europe’s most gay-friendly cities and celebrates every August with the Gay Pride Festival that attracts thousands of participants; but it’s the Rio-carnival-type parade, after party and funfair in Preston Park that attracts most of the spectators. MORE FESTIVITIES Then, of course, there’s the Brighton Festival—the largest multi-art form festival in the UK which includes organized processions such as the Children’s Parade and outdoor spectaculars often involving pyrotechnics and a great deal of theater, music, literature and visual arts in venues throughout the city. The art community in Brighton is extensive and showcased once a year in some 200 artists’ private homes in an open house event held during the Brighton Festival. Some of the artists’ home studios—a row of Victorian fishermen’s workshops converted into small gallery spaces—are directly on the beach, between Brighton Pier and West Pier. This is the famous Brighton Artists’ Quarter and one of the UK’s premier nightlife hotspots. BEYOND THE BROCHURE Other than the usual tourist brochure list of places to see—like the Hindu-Gothic style Royal Pavilion, the funfair and arcade halls of the Brighton Pier, the world’s oldest operating electric train at the Volk’s Electric Railway, or the blue lights of The Grand Hotel—go in search of Brighton’s creative edge. This edge is to be found in The Brighton Lanes which are crammed with wondrous unconventional shops, funky cafes and jazz musicians. Here narrow alleyways merge the extraordinary with the avant-garde; antiques with contemporary design and bespoke boutiques. It’s a great place for both the battle-worn shopper and sedate traveler to savor a coffee and soak up the city’s

WOW Power to the people

With 8-million tourists visiting Brighton each year, there are understandably a great many hotels and B&B’s to choose from. With chintz slowly giving way to contemporary, finding the right one could be a hit and miss affair.

history—all to the background sounds of live jazz being busked somewhere.

Must see Brighton attractions

BRIGHTON’S CAFÉ CULTURE

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British Airways i360: The country’s newest attraction glides visitors 162 meters high for breathtaking 360-degree views across Brighton and Hove. The i360 was officially named the “Most Slender Tower” by Guinness World Records in January 2016.

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The Royal Pavilion: The Prince Regent’s original pleasure palace; it doesn’t get much more bonkers than this. The Pavilion is one of the most dazzling and exotic buildings in the British Isles.

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Brighton Pier: A stunning example of a Victorian pleasure pier which depicts traditional seaside fun at its very best. Fish and chips, candy floss, rides for thrill seekers and the infamous stripy deckchairs!

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West Pier: Once a thriving center of seaside entertainment, all that is left of the West Pier is its architectural remains. Still a fabulous sight, it’s arguably the most photographed building in Brighton and Hove. The area is also now home to the independent traders and artists in the West Pier Arches.

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Brighton Beach: Named one of the Top 10 “cities with brilliant beaches” by Lonely Planet, it’s famous for its pebbles and attracts people to its shores all year round.

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The Lanes and North Laine: From the lifestyle and jewelry shops of The Lanes to the retro chic of North Laine, shopping in Brighton really is an experience. You’ll find everything from homeware and jewelry to vintage clothes and vegetarian shoes.

The café culture in Brighton is big. From the intricate warren of passageways in The Lanes to the relaxed open-air beachfront wi-fi cafes, it’s all about unwinding in a hip cosmopolitan city. You could indulge in a traditional cream tea at the Royal Pavilion Café, or visit the tea room all of Brighton flocks to—the MetroDeco (www.metro-deco.com), a lavish 1930s Parisian tea salon dressed in art deco furniture and crystal chandeliers. Afternoon tea indulgences and three-tier cake stands, overflowing with sinful treats, are on every table, as are pots of bespoke floral teas. Downstairs is a luxurious seating area and art deco showroom, and where they do doggy tea parties! STAY THE NIGHT With 8-million tourists visiting Brighton each year, there are understandably a great many hotels and B&B’s to choose from. With chintz slowly giving way to contemporary, finding the right one could be a hit and miss affair. The elegant Hotel Una (www.hotel-una. co.uk), a boutique hotel on Regency Square within view of West Pier, is one of the more stylish hotels Brighton has to offer. It has a champagne cocktail lounge, bespoke interiors and attention to the tiniest detail in each of its 20 individually designed en suite rooms. Brighton is a melting pot of nostalgia and invention, a diverse city with a cool, vibrant culture plus loads of seaside tradition; it’s a definite weekend getaway.

The English know about leisure and Brighton is just the spot. WOW air offers cheap flights to London-Gatwick and London-Stansted every day of the week, all year round.

Issue four 99

Scandinavian cool

Stockholm for a weekend Stockholm is known as “Venice of the North.” The landscape of the city consists of 14 Baltic Sea archipelago islands woven together by 50 bridges. Stockholm’s cobbled streets, medieval old town (Gamla Stan) and Gothic churches make the Swedish capital the second most visited Scandinavian city.

Photo of myself.

by Ania Neuman

Gamla Stan in the daytime.

The majority of the attractions are concentrated in the old town hence they can be easily reached on foot or by metro. Sweden’s artistic metro stations are compared to the largest art exhibitions in the world, showcasing 5 decades of European art history. T-Centralen, the large central station is a great starting point. Stockholm is an ideal weekend destination. It has the islands, boats, nature and the “must see” attractions. To make the most of the trip “Stockholm Pass,” a money-saving visitor city card, grants you access to various attractions and museums. Stockholm Pass can be purchased at the Tourist Information Center. MUSEUMS For photography lovers, Fotografiska, Swedish contemporary photography center, opened in 2010, will make an impression. Exhibiting numerous well-established artists, it includes the portrait photography shots by the talented Patrick Demarchelier of Princess Diana, Kate Moss and Angelina Jolie, and showcases a concept of childbirth photography by Lennart Nilsson who cut the ribbon during the opening of Fotografiska. The museum is housed in a factory-like brick building, just by the sea. It can be accessed by the “hop on and hop off” tourist boat, which is included in the Stockholm Pass coverage. The next famous Swedish museum is called the “Vasa Museum.” In 1628 the Vasa warship sailed for its first ever journey and sank within 20 minutes—yes, just 20 minutes! The shipwreck was extracted after 333 years under the sea. It was one of the largest warships of the 17th century. It takes a while to walk around the huge remains of the battleship, which is decorated with sculptures that represent 17th-century Sweden. To enjoy a bird’s eye view of the ship, you can walk up several floors and admire the monstrous construction.

Meatballs for the People Restaurant.

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WOW Power to the people

For “museum hungry” tourists, the list doesn’t stop here. The authentic ABBA Museum exhibits the pop group ABBA which takes you in time

Stockholm is known as “Venice of the North.” The landscape of the city consists of 14 Baltic Sea archipelago islands woven together by 50 bridges.

to the 1970s with a decade of ABBA’s peak prominence. The sound of ABBA is very much alive throughout the museum and in the souvenir shop with the world’s famous hits played in the background. On the other side of the city on Stortorget, the oldest square in Stockholm, stands the Nobel Museum located in the former Stock Exchange Building. At the museum, one will learn about Swedish chemist Alfred Nobel, founder of the Nobel Prize and the prize Laureates. From 1901 until today, the Nobel Prize recognizes the outstanding achievements of people around the world for cultural and scientific advancements. Accomplishments of all Laureates are digitally accessible at the museum. Children may amuse themselves by following the footsteps of the Polish physicist Maria Curie-Sklodowska and trying out scientific experiments. SIGHTSEEING How frequently do tourists walk on a roof? Well, in Stockholm—daily. Instead of sightseeing the city during a regular guided tour, Stockholm can be observed from different roof peaks, during a Rooftop Guided Tour! A great novelty, the tour takes around 1 hour and all participants wear a body harness, connected to the wire system. During the tour, visitors are told Stockholm’s history. It’s an incredibly exciting tour, but not for those who fear heights.

Gamla Stan - Old Town’s Square.

Stockholm is an ideal weekend destination. It has the islands, boats, nature and the “must see” attractions. To make the most of the trip “Stockholm Pass,” a money-saving visitor city card, grants you access to various attractions and museums. Stockholm Pass can be purchased at the Tourist Information Center.

Authentic Swedish meatballs dinner.

CUISINE If you have ever been shopping at IKEA, you may have already had a brief encounter with some Swedish delights, including meatballs called Kottbullar. One cannot leave Stockholm without trying them. Meatballs for the People restaurant serves 100% organic meatballs. This classic dish is served with a potato purée, cream sauce, pickled cucumber and lingonberries. It’s a meal of delicious simplicity. For anyone with a sweet tooth a well-preserved Vete Katten cafe, has been serving Kanelbullar, Swedish cinnamon rolls, for decades. These cinnamon pastries are a Scandinavian classic and Swedes practically live on them. Stockholm certainly has a lot to offer. If you decide to visit, your weekend will be filled with excitement and a full agenda. WOW air offers cheap flights to Stockholm, Sweden, from the USA, Canada and Iceland, four times a week, all year round.

AVAILABLE AT A HAIR SALON NEAR YOU Issue four 101

Big Apple dreams

A guide to classic New York Ask any New Yorker and they’ll tell you that the city ain’t what it used to be; rent prices have gone up, gentrification has taken hold and many of the city’s old haunts are no longer there. But not everything has disappeared, so why not step back in time to its glory years? These old-school venues, from bars to restaurants, museums and sightseeing hotspots are steeped in New York history, in what some might call “Old Manhattan.” By Nadja Sayej Photos: iStockphoto.com

hese hotspots are also vintage relics of a long-lost era (so, don’t be surprised if you’re the youngest person there). Here is a walk through historical New York. RESTAURANTS AND BARS Bemelman’s Bar was first founded in 1947. This old bar is the best place to order up a Manhattan. It was first founded by artist Ludwig Bemelmans, who illu strated children’s books and penned his illustrations all over the walls. The vintage look is a step back in time. Another great New York classic is Katz’s Delicatessen, a staple on the Lower East Side, where you can savor a pastrami sandwich on rye bread with pickles and a celery soda. This establishment has been in this same location since 1888, and is one of the shooting locations from When Harry Met Sally, starring Meg Ryan and Tom Hanks. The Campbell Apartment is an old New York vintage favorite. Its appearance is

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inspired by the Gilded Age, during the rise of the industrial revolution. Originally, it was the office of financier John W. Campbell. Next it became a studio used by CBS Radio, and later it was the Metro-North Railroad‘s jail. It is now a bar with incredible vintage woodwork and classical paintings. This is where you can have an old-fashioned New York cocktail away from the crowds. If you’re looking for an authentic milkshake, the Lexington Candy Shop is a classic Manhattan restaurant in the Upper East Side. Try out some memorable favorites, from a vanilla milkshake to a hamburger and fries, and stop by for Sunday brunch to have pancakes with maple syrup and bananas. ART MUSEUMS AND GALLERIES New York City has over 100 museums, 32 which are in Manhattan. A few of the iconic ones include the Metropolitan Museum of Art, which holds the world‘s

record for selfies taken in a museum. The Met features over 150,000 objects, from ancient Egyptian artifacts to impressionist paintings by Claude Monet. Nearby, also in the Upper East Side is the Whitney Museum of American Art, which features modern and contemporary art from the 20th century onward. Expect to see current exhibits, featuring American artists, alongside a permanent collection that boasts a sprawling collection of paintings by Frank Stella, Barnett Newman and Jackson Pollock. Also nearby is the Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum with its spec tacular rotunda architecture designed by Frank Lloyd Wright. And just a short walk away in midtown, The Museum of Modern Art boasts six floors of modern art, featuring many works by Pablo Picasso. But for the latest and greatest in contemporary art, hit up the New Museum, which is located downtown in the Lower East Side.

Rockefeller Center is most famous for its annual lighting of the Rockefeller Center Christ mas Tree and its public ice skating rink, which freezes over every winter.

SIGHTSEEING A trip to New York City is not complete without a visit to the Statue of Liberty on Liberty Island, just a short ferry ride from New York Harbor. The copper, neoclassical sculpture was a gift from France to America in 1886, representing Libertas, the Roman goddess embodying liberty. While you cannot go inside the structure today, wandering around the island is possible with regular ferry rides taking you to and from the harbor. It’s also worth a trip to the Rockefeller Center in midtown, a shopping and restaurant complex established in 1939. Rockefeller Center is most famous for its annual lighting of the Rockefeller Center Christmas Tree and its public ice skating rink, which freezes over every winter. Nearby, take an elevator ride to the top of the Chrysler Building, which has 77 floors and 32 elevators that bring tourists to the rooftop for stunning views of Manhattan. Afterward, stroll through the bustling Times Square to find a tourist district boasting Broadway theaters, American diner-style restaurants and fashion boutiques. But the real gem is Greenwich Village, a neighborhood in downtown Manhattan which was at the heart of the

counterculture movement of the 1960s. Even today, the district has legendary jazz clubs like the Village Vanguard which is alongside the famed Washington Square Park and several art galleries.

Bonus tip: Want to see all the old sightseeing attractions with one easy ticket? The CityPass New York (www. citypass.com) will help get you around everywhere from the Empire State Building to the Guggenheim. Recommended stay: Roger Smith Hotel, 501 Lexington Ave, New York, NY 10017, USA www.rogersmith.com.

New York still has its old charm. Get there and experience the Big Apple WOW air style! WOW air offers cheap flights to New York from around Europe every day of the week, all year round.

LET’S TACO ‘BOUT IT

HY HEALT LOCAL OOD FAST F CHAIN

Mexican food that is a true fiesta for your taste buds! We are at eight locations in the Reykjavik area and one in Akureyri: The N1 service stations at Hringbraut and Bíldshöfði. The shopping malls Kringlan and Smáralind and Akureyri center among other places.

Issue four 103

The canvas of Cleveland

Street art in the Rock n’ Roll capital In Cleveland, art appreciation extends beyond the walls of museums. Large blank walls smother a city’s vitality. It stifles the public realm and broadcasts loneliness, danger and division. But to an artist, a blank wall can be a giant canvas and an irresistible challenge. by Cindy-Lou Dale Photos: Kathryn Duke of Pickled Pin-Up Photography.

here’s a variety of murals throughout the city— selfie backdrops like a larger than life pizza slice, Prince eating a doughnut, a pair of giant doves spreading love, and a giant bookshelf.

MAGICAL MURALS This year, the FRONT International Contemporary Art Triennial, a summer-long exhibition of contemporary art happening throughout the city, is reviving a public art effort established in the 70s. Back then, Cleveland, like many urban cities at the time, was greatly impacted by suburbanization and industrial decline. The City Canvases public art project was implemented to help combat this blight, and more than a dozen murals on downtown buildings were created by local artists. Sadly, as time passed, most were erased.

The Waterloo Arts District is a creative hub of thought-provoking art and design in a neighborhood where talented artists live and work.

FRONT considers this situation a pressing reason to reignite this program, recreating famed artist Julian Stanczak’s iconic avantgarde abstract mural from 1973 on the same twelve-story wall it once covered in downtown Cleveland. This work will lead a series of new abstract wall paintings by contemporary artists providing additional must-visit sites.

Beyond downtown, the canvas expands still further. The soonto-open Pop Life Headquarters, a former Cleveland bank building in the city’s Waterloo Arts District, is now covered in an eye-popping installation of vibrant geometric design, thanks to London-based artist Camille Walala. The building will hold an art gallery, yoga and meditation studio, residences and a juice bar and café. The colorful edifice fits into the neighborhood which is already infused with street art. ZOETIC WALLS The Waterloo Arts District is a creative hub of thought-pro voking art and design in a neighborhood where talented artists live and work. Giving life to the Waterloo District, an organized public art mural project, Zoetic Walls, recently undertook a major streetscape renovation project, embracing the street art movement, bringing together some of the finest local and international street artists who have turned the walls, the alleyways, and all the nooks and crannies of the district into a canvas. Cleveland’s Hingetown area is home to several public-scale visual art pieces, a legacy of a unique collaboration of international and local artists who spent three months living and working together through the Cleveland Foundation’s Creative Fusion program—an international artist residency program. The artworks produced, which include photographic, painted murals and structural sculptures, are centered along the Detroit Avenue corridor.

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Cleveland’s art festivals Cleveland has a rich history of arts and culture. In the summer, art comes to the street in dozens of arts festivals. Some are serious juried shows, some feature up-and-coming local artists—all are interesting and fun. From July 14th till September 30th, FRONT International brings a citywide contemporary arts festival to Cleveland. This citywide art program launches its inaugural edition—An American City: Eleven Cultural Exercises—across museums and civic institutions. More than 70 national, international and area-based artists will examine the ever-changing and politically urgent conditions of an American city through artist commissions, performances, films and public programs. On August 18th and 19th, the Flats Festival of the Arts in the Flats East Bank has hundreds of artists and unique craftsmen displaying their ceramics, woodwork, photography and paintings. The festival also has many of the region’s most talented musicians and dancers. On August 18th the SPARX City Hop is a free hop-on, hop-off trolley tour taking visitors from art galleries to studios to live, local music performances. A little further out of the city: On August 4th it’s the popular Annual Lakewood Arts Festival with more than 150 painters, photographers, printmakers, ceramists and sculptors, with stalls stretching along Detroit Avenue. The Chardon Arts Festival on August 5th is held on Chardon Village Square. This art festival draws over 100 artists and a variety of media from all around the region. August 11th, it’s Art in the Park in Veteran’s Park, Painesville, with 45+ local and regional artists. August 12th, it’s an Affair on the Square Craft Festival & Vintage Fair in Medina. This festival fills Medina’s downtown city square with dozens of artists, in a variety of media. There’s also food, live music in the square’s gazebo, and activities for kids. On August 31st till Sep 2nd, Hale Farm will host the Made in Ohio Art & Craft Festival. There are over 160 Ohio artisans, local food, jewelry designers, potters, woodworkers, glass artists, soap makers, quilters and other unique artisans. Get artsy and fly to Cleveland for a creative holiday to remember. WOW air offers cheap flights to Cleveland up to four times a week.

Issue four 105

Meet us in St. Louis

Our top 6 in the Lou:

You might be in for a surprise Visit this all-American city in the Heartland, check out some of its highlights and let the Lou surprise you. by Guðrún Baldvina Sævarsdóttir Photos: iStockphoto.com

fter watching the iconic Meet me in St. Louis, reading up on the history of this former French settlement and seeing how incredibly cheap our WOW prices to this historical city in the American Midwest really are, you might want to check out our list of fun things to see and do in St. Louis. THE CATHEDRAL OF ST. LOUIS The Cathedral of St. Louis is considered by some to be one of the most beautiful churches in the world. The Romanesque exterior is undeniably beautiful, but it’s the Byzantine interior that’s really beyond belief. Outside of the San Marco Basilica in Venice, the Cathedral of St Louis has more mosaics than any other church in the world. It’s truly worth the visit! SAINT LOUIS SCIENCE CENTER The Saint Louis Science Center is full of fun, engaging and educational attractions for the whole family. Gaze up at the stars in the planetarium, enjoy a film at the OMNIMAX theater or dig deep with over 700 interactive exhibits. Don’t miss the special summer exhibition

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Destination Moon – The Apollo 11, open until September 3, 2018. THE MISSOURI BOTANICAL GARDEN Founded in 1859 it is usually con sidered among the finest botanical gardens in the world. It features 79 acres of horticultural displays, including indoor conservatories and both formal and international gardens. While a popular attraction among knowledge-thirsty nature lovers, it is also a wonderful place to stroll. Make a point to visit the Climatron which is usually a huge hit. And don’t underestimate the size of this place. With more than 6.6 million specimens, the garden deserves a full day, and be sure to get a glimpse of their evening activities and schedule.

The Cathedral of St. Louis is considered by some to be one of the most beautiful churches in the world. The Romanesque ex terior is undeniably beautiful, but it’s the Byzantine interior that’s really beyond belief.

Zoo which was recently voted the Best Zoo and America’s Top Free Attraction. ULYSSES S. GRANT NATIONAL HISTORIC SITE This is a prime destination for all history buffs but you don’t even have to be a U.S. history fan to enjoy a visit to this historical home that happens to have been the home of the victorious Civil War general Ulysses S. Grant, 18th president of the United States. THE GATEWAY ARCH Last but not least, this blog wouldn’t be complete, without St. Louis’ most prominent landmark. This towering 630-foot arch is the tallest man-made monument in the United States and an unmissable stop for anyone visiting the city. Built to commemorate the western expansion of the United States, it is a strong symbol of the continent’s history. You can access the Gateway Arch with a trip to the top that offers amazing views of the city from its most famous building.

FOREST PARK This huge and gorgeous park is the site of the 1904 World’s Fair. Forest Park is America’s second largest urban park and it’s also home to the St. Louis Art Museum and the ever popular St. Louis

Let WOW air be your gateway to the West and head to St. Louis 0for a magical getaway. WOW air offers cheap flights to St. Louis from around Europe up to five times a week.

Completing the Golden Circle

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Issue four 107

Scotland for the win

Best picks at Edinburgh Fringe The air is brimming with excitement; you can almost taste it as you walk down the cobbled streets of Edinburgh. Everywhere you look there are street performers or people handing out flyers, with the sound of bagpipes echoing along the crooked streets. If you’ve never attended the Edinburgh Fringe Festival before, then you’re in for a treat. by Nanna Gunnars Photos: © Edinburgh Festival Fringe Society

ating back to 1947 the EdFringe is the largest arts festival in the world, showcasing more than 3000 artists and groups in 300 venues with more than 50,000 performances over the course of 25 days. Anyone that wants to put up a show is in. It’s not curated. That means you can choose between all sorts of art forms, from bare-bones, intimate productions to huge, highly produced shows, so it’s worth doing your research. The program for the whole festival is the size of a small novel. So what to pick? Here are a few suggestions:

This short list doesn’t even touch on the music, musicals, exhibitions, events, spoken word or any of the hundreds of comedians, but it’s impossible to go through it all. Make sure you listen for word-of-mouth recommendations on the street.

DANCE, PHYSICAL THEATER & CIRCUS My Land is a Hungarian circus production performed at Assembly Roxy by a team that brought over a Fringe hit in 2017. They promise “a vision of light and shadow… fusing mind-blowing skills and raw talent.” We’re sold on the poster alone. Also at the Assembly Roxy is 8 Songs by the world-renowned circus group Gandini Juggling, where they combine juggling acts with classic rock and pop songs. You’ll never view juggling the same way again after seeing one of their shows. CABARET AND VARIETY The Australian drag group Briefs is a regular group at The Fringe. This year they’re back in town with Briefs: Close Encounters at Assembly Hall. Quite possibly the best circus, drag and boyles que show in town. And if you’re after more drag, then RuPaul’s royalty Courtney Act is in town, with her show Courtney Act: Under the Covers at the Underbelly Circus. Smut Slam Cabaret: Where Sex and Story telling Collide is performed at the Sweet Grassmarket. The host of the show, Cameryn Moore, also hosts regular Smut Slam nights in Reykjavík and if you enjoy hearing some raunchy or romantic true stories, then that’s exactly what you get. The audience members are the ones telling the stories, so come prepared if you want to get on stage!

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Jonny Woo’s All-Star Brexit Cabaret. It’s a satire musical about Brexit coming from the composer of Jerry Springer: the opera. Need we say more? THEATER At Assembly Hall, you can watch The Approach that has received nothing but praise in its Irish homeland lately. This psychological drama revolves around three women, played by some of Ireland’s finest performers. The popular Blind Summit puppetry group are back in town with a new production called Henry at the Pleasance Dome. After being awarded two Fringe First awards in the past for The Table and Citizen Puppet, it’s a pretty safe bet that they’re returning with another piece of great puppetry. Stuart Bowden returns with yet another lo-fi, honest solo storytelling as only he can master. Our Molecules takes place at the Underbelly and is sure to delight with his charming wit and unpretentious sing-alongs. CHILDREN’S SHOWS Circa: Wolfgang gives Mozart a circus twist in this family-friendly production at the Underbelly Circus; suitable for kids 3-14 years old. The Lost Things is a dark fairytale by the award-winning Tortoise in a Nutshell. It’s performed using puppetry in a unique dome structure in Pleasance at EICC and suits kids 8+ years old.

COMEDY: MUSICAL THEATER The team behind The Fringe staple Shit-Faced Shakespeare is back in town with Shit-Faced Showtime: Oliver With a Twist, shown at the Underbelly. A team of trained actors tries their best to put on a piece of serious theater while one of the cast has to go through the whole play

extremely drunk. Hilarity ensues. This short list doesn’t even touch on the music, musicals, exhibitions, events, spoken word or any of the hundreds of comedians, but it’s impossible to go through it all. Make sure you listen for word-of-mouth recommendations on the street. Edinburgh Fringe runs August 3-27 and the full schedule can be found on edfringe.com

THE ICELANDIC

PENIS MUSEUM We

Dicks!

WOW air offers cheap flights to Edinburgh from USA, Canada and Iceland up to four times a week. To stay in the heat of it all, you’ve got to go to the fringes. Edinburgh is bursting with life all year round but August is something else entirely.

The Icelandic Phallological Museum is one of the most informative, humorous, and unusual museums in the world. The world famous “Penis museum” in Reykjavik is the only museum in the world to contain a collection of phallic specimens belonging to all the various types of mammal found in a single country. The founder, Sigurður Hjartarson started the collection 40 years ago and made it first accessible to the public in 1997 with the opening of the museum. The Icelandic Phallological Museum contains a collection of more than 220 penises and penile parts belonging to all the land and sea mammals that can be found in Iceland. There is also a foreign section that holds more than forty examples and a folklore section that has some twenty pieces on display. All in all, more than 380 biological examples. In addition to the biological section of the museum, visitors can view a collection of about 350 artistic oddments and practical utensils related to the museum’s chosen theme. The museum is in a 250 square meter location on the upper part of Reykjavik’s main shopping street, Laugavegur, only a 10 minutes walk from the city’s centre. There is a souvenir corner with a small exclusive selection of things related to the museum’s theme.

Seeing is believing! No pornography or offensive material in the museum.

Laugavegur 116 • 105 Reykjavík • Tel.: (+354) 561-6663 (+354) 690 3774• phallus@phallus.is • www.phallus.is Opening hours: Summer: Daily from10 am - 6 pm • Winter: Daily from 11 am -6 pm • Next to Hlemmur bus station Issue four 109

Chicago

Feel the groove Remember that place Grandma cautioned you about? The place that wears a nose-ring, has a tear-drop tattoo under the eye, speaks too loudly, and chain smokes… That place is Chicago! While most cities lure you with their refinement, Chicago whacks you on the head and drags you in. by Cindy-Lou Dale

he history of Chicago and the history of music goes hand-inhand. As Chicago grew during the Industrial Revolution so did the blues and jazz, which emerged and evolved along similar timelines in the early 1920s. Then Chicago was a wealthy industrial city which drew thousands of African-Americans from the South; folk intent on a new start and a decent wage. In turn, they brought with them their music. JAZZ IS STILL HERE Initially blues and jazz started out in small local clubs on the South Side and, with the help of pioneering musicians like King Oliver, Louis Armstrong, Earl Hines, Jelly Roll Morton and countless others, the jazz scene solidified in Chicago, and went on to influence and inspire a new generation of musicians. Today, a wealth of local talent plays at nightclubs across the city. The

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good ones (where the locals hang) include the Green Mill, which was once a favorite haunt for the mobster Al Capone and his wise-guys. The Green Mill has hosted jazz greats like Billie Holiday, Tommy Dorsey, Sophie Tucker, Al Jolson, Bix Beiderbecke, Jack Teagarden, and Benny Goodman and is reputedly the oldest continuously running jazz club in the country. Here you’ll hear classic live jazz every night of the week, and on Sunday nights it’s a poetry slam. www.greenmilljazz.com

The revered Jazz Showcase has been living up to its name and packing in crowds since 1947. It’s a big name in the business and has hosted most of the jazz titans over the years while keeping fresh with new talent. From Dizzy Gillespie to Roy Hargove, jazz legends have been playing in owner Joe Segal’s Jazz Showcase since 1947. www.jazzshowcase.com

Chicago can’t claim to be the birthplace of jazz, but it’s undeniably a city where the genre is thriving and evolving. Although the Chicago Jazz Festival and the Hyde Park Jazz Festival draw the crowds. It’s the small jazz clubs that keep the music alive. Like Constellation, founded by local drummer, Mike Reed. He showcases local jazz groups and touring avant-garde performers. This is the venue where you’ll find anything that’s “too weird” for Chicago’s rock clubs. www.constellation-chicago.com

DON’T SING THE BLUES, LISTEN TO IT Chicago blues is, in fact, the music of the industrial city, urban blues even. It’s taken old blues and moved it on from ploughing fields with donkeys and given it new perspective, new blood maybe; it’s found new life working in the manufacturing

Remember that place Grandma cautioned you about? The place that wears a nose-ring, has a tear-drop tattoo under the eye, speaks too loudly, and chain smokes

The history of Chicago and the history of music goes hand-in-hand. As Chicago grew during the Industrial Revolution so did the blues and jazz, which emerged and evolved along similar timelines in the early 1920s.

plants. The electric guitars, harmonicas and voices of artists like Kevin Moore, Kokomo Arnold, Howlin’ Wolf, Bo Didley, Buddy Guy and Muddy Waters have given the blues a new edge. Chicago-style blues is differentiated from all other blues by its greater emphasis on individual solos, ably demonstrated at places like the Kingston Mines, a Lincoln Park blues club with an unusual setup—two different bands, in two separate rooms, each set up on a different stage, with MC Frank Pellegrino keeping things moving. Local blues and jazz artists often stop here after their shows at other clubs. www.kingstonmines.com

Located just down the road from Kingston Mines, B.L.U.E.S. is an intimate affair where you get to enjoy some of the city’s best blues musicians: Lil Ed, John Primer, Eddie Shaw, Vance “Guitar” Kelly and Pistol Pete. If you’re looking for background music to a chat you’re in the wrong place. It’s packed with locals, which is always a sign.

as a display case for gifts and accolades the musician has received. www.buddyguy.com

Blues musicians are not only responsible for some of the best Chicago albums ever made, but arguably also rock-and-roll itself. So, no matter what genre is the current king of the Chicago music scene, this city will always be considered a blues town. Chicago has earned the reputation as the mecca for blues and jazz. Walking in the footsteps of music legends like Charlie Parker, Jimmy Smith, and Billie Holiday you’ll hear the music in the city’s bones. The sidewalks ooze the rich history of blues and jazz, leading to obscure, dark and crowded dive bars and “hole-in-the-wall” clubs—places with soul. They’re all crowded with serious jazz and blues junkies, who nod their heads in slow rhythmic agreement to the unhurried, infectious thump. Before your hit the clubs, be sure to visit Appellation for dinner, a restaurant located inside Pastoral, a reputed Chicago cheese monger. Order a slate of artisanal cheeses, breads and cured meats, then wash it down with a glass of Chardonnay.

www.chicagobluesbar.com

www.PastoralArtisan.com

Founded by Chicago blues legend Buddy Guy, his club—Buddy Guy’s Legends— has hosted everyone from Eric Clapton to David Bowie. Grammy trophies, worn guitars and Guy’s signature polka-dot guitar straps line the walls, which serve

Jazz it up and go visit the Windy City—Chicago. A good place to start before you head on out is www.ChooseChicago.com. WOW air offers cheap flights to Chicago every day of the week, all year round.

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Issue four 111

WOW destinations

You want more?

WOW! We’ve got so many destinations we don’t have room for articles about all of them. WOW air now has over 30 destinations and will continue to add more as well as increase flight frequency to our top destinations such as London, Paris and California. You can check out all our flight destinations and low fares at wowair.com.

ALICANTE

BERLIN

Warm up by the Mediterranean Sea and taste the best of Spain.

The capital of cool and quirky is one of our most popular destinations. With history on every corner, a nightlife scene that truly lives up to its name and great shopping for everyone, Berlin won’t let you down.

WOW air now offers cheap flights* to Alicante from Iceland, with available connections from USA and Canada, up to four times a week until the end of October 2017. AMSTERDAM A city of art, architecture, cool people and canals, and don’t forget windmills, weird wooden shoes and tulips. Amsterdam is a fairytale and a great place to visit. WOW air offers cheap flights to Amsterdam from USA, Canada and Iceland daily or two times a day*, all year round.

Hop onboard. WOW air offers cheap flights to Berlin, Germany daily or two times a day*, all year round.

The city that’s famous for Cheers and good shopping. WOW air offers cheap flights to Boston all days of the week* all year round.

WOW Power to the people

DALLAST-FORT WORTH

COPENHAGEN The former capital of Iceland is still a favorite among Icelanders and now’s your chance to find out why. WOW air offers daily* flights to Copenhagen, Denmark all year round. Two flights a day on Mondays and Fridays until October.

Barcelona truly is the perfect destination; tasty tapas, seaside promenades and mind-blowing architecture.

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WOW air offers cheap flights to Brussels every day of the week* during the summer and four to five times a week during other seasons.

BOSTON

BARCELONA

Getting there is the easy part. WOW air offers 2-4 flights a week* to Barcelona from Iceland, with available connections from USA and Canada, all year round except for November.

break. Known for fine chocolate, tasty waffles, premium beer and mussels this cool destination will surprise you.

A trendy hot-spot with a wide range of tourist attractions, Brussels, Belgium is a perfect destination for a fun family vacation or a short city

WOW air offers cheap flight to Dallas-Fort Wort, Texas, three times a week*. DETROIT

Also known as the Queen of the West, Cincinnati offers historic architecture, innovative food and festivals fit for royalty.

The energy that surges through “Motor City” is worth checking out. This former hub of the American car industry is going through a revival and has become one of the most exciting destination in USA.

WOW air offers cheap flights to Cincinnati, Ohio, four times a week*.

WOW air flies to Detroit, Michigan, four times a week*.

CINCINNATI BRUSSELS

The dream turned out to be real after all and WOW air is going to Dallas. Big houses, big hats, big cars, big portions and big ideas … Welcome to Dallas-Fort Worth, Texas!

DUBLIN

GRAN CANARIA

LOS ANGELES

Dublin has become a modern European city without losing the grip on its Irish roots and just a stone’s throw away is the spectacular Irish nature.

The city of Las Palmas in Gran Canaria is warm all year round so it’s a perfect destination for both the chilly and the chill.

The City of Angels, also known as L.A. is eclectic, progressive, trendy, laid-back and retro all at once. Great beaches, Rodeo Drive and famous people, need we say more?

WOW air flies to Dublin, Ireland daily or two times a day*, all year round.

WOW air offers weekly flights to Gran Canaria from Iceland from December to the end of April each winter.

WOW air offers cheap flights to Los Angeles, California five to seven times a week* all year round. LYON

DÜSSELDORF

Experience the gastronomic capital of France with all its history and vibrant cultural scene.

This great city on the Rhine is famous for its art and culture, luxury fashion and lifestyle. WOW air flies to Düsseldorf, Germany from Iceland, with available connections from USA and Canada, from the start of June to the end of October.

WOW air flies to Lyon up to four times a week* from June to October, with available connections from USA and Canada. LONDON

Frankfurt am Main, aka “Mainhattan” is Germany’s most cosmopolitan city but that doesn’t mean history isn’t appreciated there. When you visit Frankfurt don’t miss out on the Mosel Valley for a taste of Germany’s best wines. Prost!

London has been on our schedule from the beginning and for good reason. This sprawling metropolis is a popular destination all over the world. It’s sort of like a rite of passage for travelers; you have to visit at least once. Choose between LondonGatwick and London-Stansted airports.

WOW air offers cheap flights to Frankfurt am Main every day of the week*, all year round.

WOW air offers cheap flights to London three times a day, every day of the week*, all year round.

FRANKFURT

MILAN Get ready for high fashion and high culture and don’t forget to feast your eyes on da Vinci’s Last Supper. With good links to Italy’s best ski resorts this is the perfect all-year-round destination. WOW air flies to Milan, Italy from Iceland, with available connections from USA and Canada, up to four times a week*.

MONTRÉAL This cultural gem has been nicknamed La Belle Ville or the Beautiful City and it’s more European than American at its core. Here you’ll find design, art, culture, nightlife and culinary scenes that rival the best in the world. And don’t forget about the hockey. WOW air flies to Montréal, Canada four to seven times a week*, all year round. PARIS The city of lights sparkles with art, culture and culinary delights. Experience the passionate Paris and all it has to offer. Just say Oui! WOW air offers cheap flights to Paris twice a day, every day of the week*, all year round.

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WOW destinations

SALZBURG Looking for that perfect winter destination? European ski resorts are known for being budget friendly and the Austrian Alps’ best ski resorts are just a short drive from Salzburg Airport. Pack your skis; WOW air flies to Salzburg from Iceland once a week from the end of December to the end of February every winter.

ST. LOUIS From the world renowned symphony orchestra and the magnificent Gateway Arch monument to the home of the Budweiser and the Cardinals, St. Louis might surprise you. Meet your there? WOW air offers cheap flights to St. Lois, Missouri, 4-5 times a week*.

TENERIFE Relaxing on a tropical island sounds like a dream and Tenerife is a dream come true. WOW air offers two flights a week to Tenerife Sur from Iceland all year round.

SAN FRANCISCO San Francisco is the cultural, commercial and financial center of Northern California. Well known for its liberal attitude and as the birthplace of the “hippie” counterculture, the Sexual Revolution and the Peace Movement, San Francisco is also home to one of the largest and oldest pride parades and the festivities are truly something to witness and be a part of. Free your spirit! WOW air offers cheap flights to San Francisco every day of the week from April to the end of September and four to five times a week* during the winter months.

WARSAW The capital of Poland has some historic charisma and is a great destination if you’re on a budget. WOW air offers flights to Warsaw from Iceland, with available connections from USA and Canada, two times a week from June to September.

WASHINGTON, D.C. Are you ready for a monumental trip? Get acquainted with the history of the United States of America and enjoy this great capital. WOW air offers cheap flights to Washington, D.C. every day of the week, all year round.

The WOW Stopover When flying between North America and Europe take advantage of our WOW Stopover option.

The WOW Stopover allows you to visit Iceland on your way to or from your destination. It’s kind of like getting two vacations for the price of one.

TEL AVIV For sunny fun and great food, Tel Aviv is the city to visit. Known for its lively and vibrant nightlife, welcoming and relaxed atmosphere and amazing history and architecture, the city of Tel Aviv will be a pleasant surprise. Get ready for a whole new experience. WOW air flies to Tel Aviv, Israel, three to four times a week* until the end of October.

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Find out more at wowair.com

Go further with Kiwi.com

WOW air’s now offers additional travel options in collaboration with Kiwi.com. You can book connecting flights outside our network at the best possible price. Would you like to fly to South America, Asia or Africa? Our booking engine in collaboration with Kiwi.com will find you the easiest connection. * Note that the availability of connecting flights between USA and Europe/Asia may vary depending on the flight frequency to each city. WOW air connects London, Edinburgh, Dublin, Berlin, Düsseldorf, Frankfurt, Copenhagen, Amsterdam, Brussels, Paris, Lyon, Stockholm, Alicante, Barcelona, Milan, Warsaw and Tel Aviv to New York, Boston, Chicago, Cincinnati, Cleveland, Dallas, Detroit, Washington, D.C., Pittsburgh, Miami, Los Angeles, San Francisco and St. Louis in the US and Toronto and Montréal in Canada.

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This and that …

mostly this

by Eygló Árnadóttir / Photos: iStockphoto.com and from private collections

Sorry for bragging but... We’re simply the best! Better than all the rest! The worldfamous travel website, TripAdvisor, recently announced their “Most excellent” list of countries and cities all over the globe that consistently achieve the highest traveler reviews. Of the four categories, Iceland is ranked highest in three: as “most excellent country overall,” “most excellent country for experience” and “most excellent country for restaurants.” As a city, Reykjavík also did well—taking 2nd place in the categories of “most excellent city overall” and “most excellent city for restaurants.”

The Icelandic sheep can be formidable, however not as formidable as a hungry polar bear.

Beware the polar sheep Although most tourist stores in Iceland offer some kind of polar bear related items, there actually are no polar bears in Iceland (because of lack of ice). Occasionally though, they do drift or swim over from Greenland (the last one that we know of in 2016), and rarely get a warm welcome. Last July, the police department in the north of Iceland got a report of a polar bear roaming the Melrakkaslétta Plain. A few friends who were fishing in the area noticed something big and white, resembling a bear, and ran for their lives to their car which was parked 4 km away. A helicopter searched for the bear but no bear was to be found. Either it got back in the ocean (a smart move as Icelandic laws state that it is forbidden to shoot polar bears unless they are on land endangering people or livestock) or more likely, the men saw a big sheep. But hey, no judgment from us … we come across a sheep that might possibly be a polar bear—we’re running too!

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Iceland also made it to the list of “the most definitive list of the World’s Best Journeys”—a truly inspiring collection of the top 50 transformative trips every traveler must experience in their lifetime, according to Flight Network travel website and over 500 of the world’s top travel journalists, agencies, bloggers and editors. On this inspiring list of journeys, road tripping on Iceland’s Ring Road comes in 6th place—behind an expedition to Antarctica, a cruise to the Galapagos Islands, the TransSiberian train ride, trekking the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu and driving along North America’s Pacific coast. Driving the 1,332 km long Ring Road is called an epic road trip of a lifetime, bound to awaken a sense of awe and vibrant spirit of adventure in every traveler, and the ideal way to fully absorb the many wonders of Icelandic nature. The Ring Road lets you see each of the unique regions in Iceland and passes mountains, glaciers, waterfalls, icebergs, hot springs, fjords and coastlines—all at your own pace. Finally, the Australian Cosmopolitan nominated Iceland as the most Instagram-friendly place on earth. Vacation pictures generally round up more likes on Instagram than pictures from your daily life, but to get tenfold of that vacay magic to your Instagram account, the magazine recommends a trip to Iceland for a backdrop of Northern Lights, black beaches and ice caves.

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WOW Power to the people

“ People are giving Iceland and its Ring Road a “thumb up” these days. (Yes we know it’s a hitch hiker).

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to be a responsible tourist. The pledge goes: “When I explore new places, I will leave them as I found them. I will take photos to die for, without dying for them. I will follow the road into the unknown, but never venture off the road. And I will only park where I am supposed to.

Make a pledge! THopefully, you‘re planning on both staying safe on your trip to Iceland and will do your best to preserve the country’s nature, so you might as well make it official. The website Inspired by Iceland has great tips and info for travelers and now entreats them to sign a pledge

When I sleep under the stars, I will stay in a campsite. And when nature calls, I won’t answer the call on nature. I will be prepared for all weathers, all possibilities and all adventures.” Already, more than 32,000 travelers from over 100 countries have made the pledge. You can join them as soon as you land in Keflavík by pushing a large button at the airport.

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This and that …

mostly this

by Eygló Árnadóttir / Photos: Various outlets

Volcano on the loose if the volcano was fast approaching an eruption. Volcano activity is notoriously hard to predict and no measurements can provide an exact timeframe for eruptions. This unrest could, therefore, continue for weeks, months or even years. Öræfajökull last erupted in 1727 and before that in 1362, then making the area around it uninhabitable for decades to come. Should the volcano erupt again, massive glacial flooding would pose the greatest danger.

A glacier on the verge. Photo: iStockphoto / Thorir Ingvarsson

Since last fall, Icelandic geologists’ eyes have been on Öræfajökull, a glacier-covered volcano in southeast Iceland. It has been showing clear signs of unrest, the

typical preparation stage before an eruption. The area is being closely monitored but there should be no immediate cause for alarm, as there likely would be stronger evidence

Reminiscent of the eruption of Eyja fjallajökull in 2010 this one could also disrupt flights, especially in the beginning. However, after Eyja fjallajökull, scientists and meteoro logists now know more about ash plume and how it behaves in the atmosphere and say the disruption of another similar eruption might not be as devastating to air traffic as the one in 2010.

Worst summer ever While the rest of the world seems to be overheating, so far Iceland’s capital has had the chilliest and rainiest summer ever to be recorded (in over 100 years of reliable weather monitoring). Between May 1st and July 27th, Reykjavík had the grand total of seven sunny days. SEVEN! This awful summer weather is the result of several different factors, including the unusually warm weather in Scandinavia and Britain, and a cold spot in the North Atlantic. So, don’t be surprised by all those pale, gloomy faces you’ll see in the capital. Now, let’s not talk about it anymore.

Tourists wearing parkas and long pants are the norm in Reykjavik this summer.

A vast selection of vintage items as well as favorably priced tourist goods

Open weekdays from 12 to 18 and Saturdays from 12 to 16. The nearest bus station is at Grensásvegur. Góði hirðirinn | Fellsmúla 28 | 108 Reykjavík | 520 2200

WOW Power to the people

The all Icelandic cookbook, Taste of Iceland, has been chosen best in the world by the prestigious Gourmand World Cookbook Awards. Celebrating the unique, clean, diverse and ambiti ous, this book introduces the world of modern Icelandic cuisine with a tradi tional twist to home cooks worldwide. Leading the way is Úlfar Finnbjörnsson, often nicknamed “the Wild Chef” due to his passion for hunting and all that Icelandic nature has to offer. Photographs by Lárus Karl Ingason play an important role in the book and combine the Icelandic scenery with pure ingredients from nature. With everything from seafood to smoked lamb, wild game to traditional Icelandic pastry, this book will fire enthusiasm for the gastronomic riches that can be found in and around our pristine island, from highest mountaintops down to bountiful shores. Read more about Úlfar and his book on page 130.

Visit the most popular flea market in Reykjavík

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Message from the middle of nowhere The new Icelandic self-help book, Message from the Middle of Nowhere, is a true story of success and failure, of fighting fire and ice, and of the art of sales and successful living. For over 20 years, the author Gunnar Andri has been a key player in the business of sales in Iceland. In true self-help fashion, his book aims to show the reader that anything is possible. In doing this, he introduces ancient Viking philosophy as well as mystical Icelandic creatures such as elves, trolls and the thirteen Yule Lads. The book is also a journey to various places in Iceland, with a map showing locations of volcanic eruptions, avalanches and the oldest continually running parliament in the world. Get the book at Amazon or bookstores in Iceland.

Icelandic wool

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This and that …

mostly this

by Eygló Árnadóttir / Photos: Various outlets

Moving up in the world

Some people just ruin it for everyone!

Stop littering! Many of the hottest tourist spots in Iceland aren’t officially run by anyone but are free of charge to visit, meaning there is no staff to clean up after guests or make sure they follow simple ground rules. With Iceland being a very popular destination, many natural sightseeing spots are suffering from trash left by travelers. Tourists littering is both heartbreaking and perplexing since the unspoiled nature is probably this country’s main attraction.

visitors continued to litter and treat this magical place with a complete lack of respect. Conditions in the area have rapidly deteriorated with tourists leaving their trash, beer cans, bodily waste and toilet paper in the cave and around the pool. As a last resort, the landowners finally decided to close the area off to the public to protect it from permanent damage, while hoping for a better permanent solution where people can still enjoy this natural pool.

The geothermal pool in Kvennagjá Cave in North Iceland has long been a popular spot to bathe in. With growing numbers of visitors, the landowners improved the paths and installed information signs with instructions and directions. But despite the signs being in four different languages,

Dear guests, be so kind as not to ruin the unspoiled nature you flew in to see. Treat Mother Nature with the respect she deserves. Respect those who come after you and also wish to enjoy her wonders. Follow local rules and PICK UP YOUR TRASH.

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Monday

Tuesday

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Iceland has been elected to take a seat on the UN Human Rights Council, after the United States withdrawal. This is the highest international position the country has ever occupied. A minimum of 97 votes are required to gain a seat, and Iceland received 172 votes (a total of 99.4 % votes). Iceland’s minister of foreign affairs, Guðlaugur Þór Þórðarson, is happy with this wide support and calls it “a recognition of Iceland’s good work in human

rights issues.” These days it’s focusing on equality and LGBTIQ issues. We’re all for human rights here at WOW air so keep them coming!

Unisex bathrooms In its first meeting recently, Reykjavík city’s newly appointed council for human rights and democracy unanimously approved that all staff restrooms in the city’s public administration buildings will be unisex as of this fall. The council also decided to launch an assessment of We really don’t care! restroom facilities in buildings where the city provides services so that suggestions can be made for improvements to accommodate the different needs of citizens. The aim of this resolution is to fight prejudice and create improved access for all, such as trans and intersex individuals.

Young Karin performed at Iceland Airwaves in 2017 and she will perform at the festival this year too. Photo: Florian Trykowski courtesy of Iceland Airwaves.

50/50 at Iceland Airwaves

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Saturday

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Sunday

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Iceland Airwaves is a wildly popular music festival, annually taking place across downtown Reykjavík. Celebrating its 20th year this November, the festival will now promote a line-up with a 50/50 gender balance, reflecting the equal balance of male and female audience each year. This is a part of the international

campaign “Keychange” which invests in emerging female talent and encourages festivals to sign up to a 50/50 balance pledge by 2022. Airwaves’ spokespeople say they don’t think of it as filling a quota, as the line-up builds from quality and therefore couldn’t overlook women in music. Now that’s music to our ears!

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Hey

look!

What ’s going on over here? Quite a lot actually, and if you know where to go you can live each night in Iceland like there’s a full blown festival going on. Photos: Courtesy of respective venues or events

A movie lover’s paradise WHAT: KIA Golden Circle Challenge WHEN: August 25 WHERE: Laugavatn Lake, South Iceland One of Iceland’s most popular bike races will take place at Laugavatn in August. This is not just a race between the best cyclists of Iceland but rather a fun day out in the magnificent nature for cyclists of all levels with three different length courses.

Located in the heart of downtown Reykjavík, Bíó Paradís is a nonprofit organization run by Iceland’s professional filmmaking guilds. Screening the latest art house releases from all around the world as well as cult films and Icelandic film, it is Iceland’s first and only art house cinema. The theater provides a warm, cozy environment for film lovers of all kinds—both in its three-screen theater and its well-stocked bar.

Events in August and September

Registration is open until August 22 at www.gullhringurinn.is.

In Kanema's Song the musically inclined Erna Kanema discovers her African heritage.

WHAT: Happy Hour WHEN: Every day from 17-19 No need to explain, happy hour means the same in Iceland as everywhere else. WHAT: Friday Night Party Screenings WHEN: Every Friday Night at 8 PM Dancing and singing, disasters and gore! Films everyone needs to see, at least once! All films in English! August 31: The Blair Witch Project Three film students vanish after traveling into a Maryland forest to film a documentary on the local Blair Witch legend, leaving only their footage behind. A true nostalgic FRIDAY NIGHT PARTY SCREENING. September 21: Pulp Fiction The film is iconic for its eclectic dialogue, ironic mix of humor and violence, nonlinear storyline, and a host of cinematic allusions and pop culture references. The film was nominated for seven Oscars! Photo: Eva Björk Ægisdóttir / Courtesy of Reykjavik Sports Union

WHAT: Reykjavik Marathon WHEN: August 18 WHERE: Starts from Lækjargata, 101 Reykjavik The annual Reykjavik Marathon will commence for the 35th time this August. As one of the most popular runs in Iceland, this event has thousands of runners signing up for different distances. From the 42 km full marathon to the 3 km fun run, everyone should find a suitable distance to run. You can pick your charity and collect pledges for their benefit too, so you’re running for a good cause. Go to www.rmi.is for more information and registration.

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WHAT: BLACK SUNDAYS WHEN: Sundays at 8 PM from September on On Black Sundays Bio Paradis’ special team of experts program old cult classic films that are shown in Bíó Paradís. The program is curated by Hugleikur Dagson the famous cartoonist/comedian, Sjón renowned author and Sigurjón

Kjartansson one of Iceland’s bestknown screenwriter/comedian/ musician. The film of the week is announced on their Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/ SvartirSunnudagar. WHAT: Russian Film Days WHEN: September 2018 The sixth edition of the Russian Film Days in Iceland is held in cooperation with the Embassy of the Russian Federation in Iceland, GAMMA Capital Management Ltd. and Northern Travelling Film Festival. Films will be screened in the original Russian language with the English subtitles. There’s a selection of award-winning films mixed with current Russian cinema. Free entrance and everyone is welcome. WHAT: Kanema’s Song WHEN: September 6th The musically inclined Erna Kanema discovers her African heritage. Anna Þóra, the director of Kanema’s Song, who won both the jury’s and the audience’s award at this year’s documentary film festival Skjaldborg in Iceland, wanted to create awareness about how it is to grow up on the borderline of two cultures. A brand new Icelandic documentary, premiered Septem ber 6th with English subtitles.

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Issue four 123

Hey

look!

What’s going on over here? Quite a lot actually, and if you know where to go you can live each night in Iceland like there’s a full blown festival going on.

The beautiful town of Hafnarfjörður. Photo: iStockphoto / sumos.

WHAT: The Heart of Hafnarfjordur WHEN: August 24-26 WHERE: Bæjarbíó Cinema, Strandgata 6, Hafnarfjorður This three-day town music festival keeps things close to home with the most popular Icelandic acts performing, many of whose members call this town on the outskirts of the capital region their home. The festival is held in and around Bæjarbíó Cinema, the

only 20th-century cinema that’s been fully preserved in its original form. It still functions as a cinema, using the original equipment and screening films as they did in 1945, but this weekend after 7 pm it will be a place for just music. Come to meet the locals, listen to some very Icelandic music and have a party. Tickets are available at tix.is but to find the event you will need to search by its Icelandic name: Hjarta Hafnarfjarðar.

WHAT: Performance as Sculpture: Theater Gates and Ragnar Kjartansson WHEN: August 23 from 6-8 PM WHERE: Reykjavik Art Museum – Hafnarhús

From the exhibition at Hafnarhús and Kjarvalsstaðir. Photos: Courtesy of Reykjavik Art Museum.

WHAT: No Man’s Land – Where Beauty Alone Reigns? WHEN: Open until September 30, 2018 WHERE: Reykjavik Art Museum – Kjarvalsstaðir and Hafnarhús

Artists Theater Gates (2018 Nasher Prize Laureate) and Ragnar Kjartansson will explain the role of performance within their respective sculptural practices. Both artists have incredibly varied modes of working, but each use performances—from strictly musical engagements to highly orchestrated films and interventions—as a way of considering narratives of place, history, fact and fiction, and human relationships.

This exhibition focuses on the values of Icelanders in relation to nature and their connection to Iceland‘s wild erness. The pieces are by Icelandic artists from various periods dating back to when the country and its wilderness were symbols of freedom and independence to the works of contemporary artists, with references to global discussions on the value of the unspoiled land and the utilization of resources.

The discussion is part of Nasher Prize Dialogues, the discursive platform of the Nasher Prize, the annual international prize for a living artist in recognition of a body of work that has had an extraordinary impact on the understanding of sculpture. artmuseum.is

They reflect various ideas of the Ragnar Kjartansson draws on the entire arc of art in his performative practice. Photo: Haemmerli / Wikipedia

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you along the Reykjavik coastline where you’ll see a number of outdoor artworks. Best of all, it’s free of charge and anyone can join in. Just meet the group in front of Harpa Concert Hall and wear good shoes for pounding some pavement. The Evening Walk ends at Hlemmur Square.

This extensive exhibition contains work by artists who have been influential in Icelandic art history from the beginning of the 20th century to the present time. Some of the work is brand new, created especially for this exhibition. The exhibition is twofold; the historic part is in Kjarvalsstaðir but the 21st-century artists are shown in Hafnarhús. Reykjavik Art Museum regularly offers Artist Talk with artists who have their work in the exhibition, for instance, on August 16 at 8 pm.

WHAT: Reykjavik Culture Night WHEN: August 18 from 1-11 PM WHERE: Around Reykjavik

An evening walk along the coast is a great way to see the famous Sun Voyager and learn more about it and other works of art around Reykjavik.

WHAT: An Evening Walk along the Coast: Art in Public Space WHEN: Every Thursday night until August 30 at 8 PM WHERE: Starts from Harpa Concert Hall Led by experts from the Reykjavik Art Museum, this informative walk takes

artists and simultaneously the trends of their period, although the artists’ guiding light remains artistic vision and personal interpretation.

Photo: Ragnar Th Sigurðsson

Created and enjoyed by the citizens of Reykjavik, Culture Night is one of the biggest events of the year with celebrations in the streets and squares, in museums, businesses and residential gardens. The event’s slogan is “Come on in!”—a reference to good old-fashioned customs of Icelandic hospitality.

All around town diverse and rich offerings of cultural events are available and the biggest problem guests face is how to see as much as possible in just this one day. The highlight of the night is the big concert on Arnarholl Hill followed by a magnificent fireworks show by the harbor. And best of all, all events are free of charge. This is the biggest and most eclectic block party you’ll ever witness. We’ll see you around town! culturenight.is

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ber 2018

August - Septem

ARIES

LIBRA

21 MARCH - 19 APRIL

23 SEPTEMBER - 23 OCTOBER

This month will be a true fairytale for you! Perhaps not one with a hot prince, an unattainable waistline or woodland creatures doing your housework... but still, good stuff coming.

You will be the center of attention today and make so many people laugh. About time you crawled out of your shell! Don’t even worry about that toilet paper stuck to your pants, just enjoy all those smiles.

TAURUS

SCORPIO

20 APRIL - 20 MAY

24 OCTOBER - 21 NOVEMBER

Need guidance? This magazine can surely guide you. Flip to the page number that is your birth year and read the line numbered the same as your birth month. This line should be your moral compass throughout the year.

Some days you simply don’t feel like yourself. This is one of those days. So go read the Leo horoscope and make believe it‘s yours.

SAGITTARIUS GEMINI 21 MAY - 21 JUNE Your future financial status relies on you having more Cancers in your life. So, start chatting with every single stranger and befriend those Cancers ASAP!

CANCER 22 JUNE - 22 JULY You might come across a needy Gemini pleading to be your friend. The Gemini is probably broke and desperate, so try to be nice.

LEO 23 JULY - 22 AUGUST You know that cute nickname everyone at work calls you by? Yeah, it’s a not really a nickname—they just don’t remember your real name. The stars suggest you show up at an office party once in a while.

VIRGO 23 AUGUST - 22 SEPTEMBER The love of your life is sitting next to you right now. If it’s your spouse—great! You’ll live happily ever after. If it’s a stranger— don’t blow it with a cheesy pickup-line, fake choking and have them save you instead.

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22 NOVEMBER - 21 DECEMBER Feel like the underdog these days? The stars know how you feel and unfortunately don’t see anything changing for you anytime soon… but hey, everyone loves dogs!

CAPRICORN 22 DECEMBER - 19 JANUARY Stay away from toasters.

AQUARIUS 20 JANUARY - 18 FEBRUARY The stars sense a steamy love affair with a co-worker coming up… wait, you’re already married? Hey! The stars do not condone!

PISCES 19 FEBRUARY - 20 MARCH You will soon realize that the love of your life is actually right there. You knew each other in high school and started dating years later, then broke up while on a break but later had a baby, and now... Oh no wait—sorry, forgot to turn off Friends before getting my star charts. You’re still single.

Disclaimer: This horoscope is total and utter nonsense. Any accuracy, real or imagined, is purely accidental.

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Issue four 127

WOW SUDOKU

REALLY, REALLY BORED? HERE ARE A FEW SUDOKUS TO MAKE TIME FLY.

BUT HOW DO I DO IT? The object is to insert the numbers in the boxes to satisfy only one condition: Each row, column and 3x3 box must contain the digits 1 through 9 exactly once. What could be simpler? Kids

Kids

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WOW Power to the people

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Find out more on www.eastwest.is Issue four 129

THE TRAVELING INQUISITION

The wild wild chef Úlfar Finnbjörnsson is a well-known chef in Iceland and the head chef at one of the country’s biggest hotels. He has worked as a TV chef and written a few books. His latest, Taste of Iceland, has just been chosen best in the world by the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards. by Svava Jónsdóttir Photos: Karl Petersson and Ásgeir Guðmunsson, Courtesy of Úlfar Finnbjörnsson

I’m

the head chef at Grand Hotel Reykjavík which is one of the biggest hotels in Iceland. It’s a very busy job.” For 12 years, Úlfar was a member of the Icelandic National Culinary Team and apart from working in restaurants through the years, Úlfar has also worked as a TV chef, food journalist and written a few books about Icelandic food; one is solely about wild game in which Úlfar teaches hunters and housewives alike to utilize the whole game, letting no part of it go to waste, while still producing gourmet dishes. A TASTE OF ICELAND Úlfar’s latest book, Taste of Iceland, has just been chosen best in the world by the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards. “I’m very proud of it. Apart from the recipes, the book has many pictures of Icelandic nature as well as beautiful pictures of food. Taste of Iceland is about Icelandic cuisine; mostly old and traditional dishes but I’ve popped it up a bit. There are in fact all kinds of dishes including a lot of wild game. Icelandic wild game is one of

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WOW Power to the people

my favorite things to cook and I’m very passionate about it so I’ve been nicknamed “the Wild Chef. Then there are some lamb dishes; we are very proud of the Icelandic lamb, and also Arctic char, salmon dishes and some desserts. I also have the Icelandic classic kleinur which is kind of twisted doughnut, and a rhubarb crumble with skyr, an Icelandic traditional dish that’s becoming very popular all over the world.” Later this year, a new book will be published: Recipes from the Viking Age, with recipes that Úlfar has developed. He even developed a great auk recipe—but as you probably know, the great auk became extinct in the mid-19th century, maybe because it was so tasty.

I had a such a good experience there. I try to go to Axarfjörður every year to fish and hunt and just to enjoy the nature. It’s such a beautiful place.” NAMIBIA Namibia is Úlfar’s favorite place abroad. “I went there three years ago. It’s a wonderful place. Nature there is marvelous and the people are good. When I went, it was not so hot so I could enjoy it more. I went hunting and fishing. I’d like to go there again.”

AXARFJÖRÐUR

Of course the “Wild Chef” tasted some of Namibia’s wild game. “I tasted zebra, oryx, kudu and springbok—all kinds of wild animals. They were delicious. It was the first time I cooked them myself and it worked out very well.”

Úlfar says that Axarfjörður, a fjord in Northeast Iceland, is his favorite place in the country. “It’s a beautiful place; the nature is so beautiful. I was there for 9 summers when I was young, a time when it was popular to send kids to the countryside to work on a farm during the summer.

Úlfar prepares both wild and traditional Icelandic cuisine at Grand Hotel Reykjavik. During the fall, he offers special wild game buffet nights on selected weekends with some of his most popular dishes. They are a sought-after affair and if you’re in town, we recommend scoring a table.

s n a p c h a t /c i n t a m a n i . i s

f a c e b o o k /c i n t a m a n i . i c e l a n d

i n s t a g r a m /c i n t a m a n i _ i c e l a n d

b a n ka s t rรฆt i + k r i n g l a n + s m รก ra l i n d + a u s t u r h ra u n + a k u rey r i + w w w.c i nt a m a n i . i s

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132MEN: WOW Power to the people Skólavörðustígur 16. WOMEN: Skólavörðustígur 7 & Kringlan. HOME: Skólavörðustígur 12. GEYSIR: Hafnarstræti, Akureyri and Haukadalur. Geysir.com

WOW magazine - Art Issue

Articles inside

Stockholm for a weekend

Brighton rocks

A guide to classic New York

A guide to the Toronto art scene

Take your time - A slow adventure in Iceland

Scenic flights from Lake Myvatn

The Reykjavik underground art scene

The WOW horoscope

Work hard - Play hard

An original perspective - Amazing photos