WOW magazine Issue 5 2018

e azin mag ISSUE FIVE 2018

ABOVE AND BEYOND Great places in Iceland you probably haven‘t explored yet

Plus: Get that perfect shot.

The WOW guide to great aerial and Northern Lights photos.

Y O U R F R E E C O P Y -TA K E M E W I T H Y O U

VOLCANO & EARTHQUAKE EXHIBITION

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MORE INFO AND TICKETS AT

Open every day

www.lavacentre.is

9:00 - 19:00

WOW Power to the people

The Lava Centre is situated at Hvolsvöllur on the South Coast of Iceland, surrounded by active volcanoes. It truly acts as the gateway to Iceland’s most active volcanic area.

It’s a must-see for anyone wanting to get a better understanding of the incredible forces that have shaped Iceland.

The Lava Centre just received two Red Dot Awards, which cement its position as a world class exhibition.

Follow us on

social media

Iceland Volcano & Earthquake Centre Austurvegur 14, Hvolsvöllur · South Iceland Issue five 3

Directly opposite of the geothermal area of the great Geysir & Strokkur

litli Geysir hotel Experience a wonderful stay with a front row seat to the unique Geysir area.

Geysir Glima restaurant – Coffee house with freshly ground coffee – Sweet ice creams & cakes – Traditional Icelandic meat soup – Fish soup & vegetarian soup – Local food WWW.GEYSIRGLIMA.IS

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WOW Power to the people

Beautiful Nature & Fun activities

Elegant Restaurants • Design Shop • Hotel • Souvenir Shop • Soup Vegan Restaurant • Snack Shop • Camping Area

Welcome to Geysir ONE OF THE GREATEST NATURAL ATTRACTIONS OF ICELAND

GEYSIR THE BEST PLACES TO PHOTOGRAPH ON THE PLANET POPPHOTO.COM

THE GEYSIR CENTER Directly opposite of the geothermal area of the great Geysir & Strokkur

GEYSIR CENTER • HAUKADALUR • WWW.GEYSIRCENTER.IS +354 480 6800 • GEYSIR @ GEYSIRCENTER.IS Issue five 5

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WOW Power to the people

Pre-booking is required. Book online at bluelagoon.com

Issue five 7

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WOW Power to the people

BRYNJA Icelandic Wool Sweater

kr. 19.990

Issue five 9

A letter from the editor

In this issue

Power to the people – five 2018

12 A letter from the CEO 14 Experience is everything Check out these three recommended tours for your stay in Iceland.

Amazing island

W

orking on this issue I was forced to look at so many amazing photos from this island I call home. This really is becoming an occupational hazard. Some of those places I did not even know existed and I can’t blame eager travelers for hopping on flights and exploring my homeland after seeing photos like these.

The amount of other-worldly scenery within a day-trip distance from our capital is staggering and if you really have some time you can see the lesser known, but equally splendid sights in the north, east and west of Iceland. This is also great news for those who feel that Iceland’s tourism scene has been saturated and that Iceland is getting too crowded. Far from it. As an editor, I get pitches for attractions such as the Golden Circle and the South Coast every week while I have never gotten a pitch for the East Fjords and very seldom for North Iceland, the West Fjords or the Highland. This simply tells me where most people are going, including travel writers, photographers and bloggers; they’re obviously staying close to the capital. It’s easier, for sure, but to see more you need to go further.

18 Extreme cycling Extreme cycling in Lake Mývatn doesn’t necessarily involve daring descents or treacherous trails.

82 A tasty tour of Canada Just an hour from Montreal, the Chemin du Terroir agrotourism trail runs between the Lake of Two Mountains, the Ottawa River, and the Riviere du Nord.

22 The perfect shot Follow our photography guide to getting great aerial and Northern Lights shots in Iceland.

84 Chicago’s three coolest hoods Just a stone’s throw from Chicago’s city center are three neighborhoods well worth a shopping visit.

28 Adventures around the corner If you’ve already covered Iceland’s South Coast or are thinking of being adventurous and taking another route, release your inner daredevil and go explore Iceland’s western region!

86 Winter in Washington, D.C. and Baltimore Oh, the weather can be cold and snowy, but you can see and do things in the winter that you can’t during other times of the year, and there aren’t nearly as many tourists.

30 How your small change could make a big change Phenomenal nature is the top reason for visiting Iceland, but Icelandic nature is fragile and needs a little help.

88 Detroit: City of Amazing Architecture With its skyline and streetscape filled with extraordinary historic buildings, perhaps Detroit should be called the City of Amazing Architecture.

34 Song of a siren Rising talent María Magnúsdóttir, aka MIMRA, sits down over coffee and gives us the lowdown on music, magic and more.

90 Orlando: The perfect holiday spot The sunshine state of Florida is a sunny and happy place, packed with fun activities for young and old.

38 Reykjanes Peninsula The fact that your aircraft literally lands on the Reykjanes Peninsula when you’re flying to Iceland is not the only reason why it’s the perfect stopover spot all year round.

42 Ice-Land Glaciers and ice cover one-tenth of the largely green land we call Iceland.

46 Walking through the set of Burial Rights Take a hike through love, passion, jealousy, murders, trial and executions in North Iceland.

But first, you’ve got to read one book.

40 A WOW word of advice Knowing how to drive and knowing how to drive in Iceland are two entirely different things. This information just might save your life.

There’s a whole world of wonders still left to experience in Iceland and it is crowded in no way. In the words of my Canadian friends, the legendary Bachman-Turner Overdrive … “You ain’t seen nothing yet.”

e azin mag

ABOVE AND BEYOND

ISSUE FIVE 2018

POWER TO THE PEOPLE – Issue four 2018

Plus: Get that perfect shot.

The WOW guide to great aerial and Northern Lights photos.

Y O U R F R E E C O P Y -TA K E M E W I T H Y O U

On the cover This issue is all about going above and beyond to explore Iceland as there are parts of this island travelers are yet to discover. The further you venture from the capital the less crowded it becomes.

One of the best ways to see the sights undisturbed is taking a scenic flight. Our cover is a testament to that. The photo was shot by photographer Elías Arnar for Atlantsflug (flightseeing.is) while flying over Pálsfjall Mountain in Vatnajökull Glacier. Check out more information on the sightseeing flight and more gorgeous aerial photos on pages 66-67. And check out more awesome photos by Elías Arnar at www.eliasarnars.com.

Attention advertisers!

How would you like to see your company in our next issue?

Contact our advertising representative and he’ll make it happen.

He’s just that good! halli@wow.is

WOW magazine staff Editor in chief: Guðrún Vaka Helgadóttir Design and layout: Ivan Burkni - ivanburkni@gmail.com Proofreading: Paul Michael Herman Contributing writers: Shaun Busuttil, Guðrún Baldvina Sævarsdóttir, Donna Tzaneva, Christopher Kanal, Einar Páll Svavarsson, Páll Stefánsson, Einar Skúlason, Gerður Harðardóttir, Myla Twillie, Judy Colbert, Cindy-Lou Dale, Christopher Baker, Þorbergur Ingvi Kristjánsson, Gilad Fiskus, Andrew ­Marshall, Evan Lewis and Svava Jónsdóttir

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WOW Power to the people

92 Highland fling Christopher Baker took on Scotland’s North Coast 500 on a motorcycle and found the ultimate high.

96 Amsterdam: Escape the maze Whatever you may have heard about Amsterdam, we’re here to tell you it’s so much more.

98 Holi celebration in India Holi Festival is a Hindu religious celebration marking the beginning of the spring season and according to mythology, it’s when good conquered evil.

102 Adventures in Italy Rent a car and discover the foodie boltholes in the Emilia-Romagna.

104 The art of Copenhagen The Danish capital is one of the most beautiful cities in the world. Steeped in Viking history, the coastal city is the heart of Danish culture.

108 A cheesy tour of Europe Andrew Marshall takes us on a cheesy tour around Europe’s best regions for this dairy delight.

See you around!

Guðrún Vaka Helgadóttir WOW magazine editor-in-chief

ABOVE AND BEYOND Great places in Iceland you probably haven‘t explored yet

WOW DESTINATIONS

66 The Vatnajökull Region from above Hop onboard a small airplane and experience the great Vatnajökull Region from above.

70 Hildur Yeoman’s brilliant creativity Award-winning fashion designer Hildur Yeoman is best known for her ultra-feminine statement pieces and sublime talent for illustration.

72 Omnom sets the bar higher Despite growing neither cocoa beans nor sugar, Icelanders are mad for chocolate and make quite a bit of it.

74 Mini Traveler Alert Don’t leave home without these budget-friendly essentials when traveling with little ones.

78 The U.S. Customs Declaration Form What is this? Why do I need to fill it out?

112 You want more?

Where do you want to go? Check out our other WOW destinations.

116 This and that …mainly this.

122 What’s going on? …quite a lot, actually.

126 WOW horoscope What’s in your future? WOW air’s famed astro­ logist has the answer.

128 Bored on board?

Solve these Sudokus.

130 The Traveling Inquisition Gunnar Andri Þórisson mixes new wisdom with ancient Viking philosophy in his unique self-help book Message From The Middle Of Nowhere.

P.S. Would you like your very own copy of WOW magazine?

Take this one with you or contact us through magazine@wow.is and we’ll send you a printed copy. You can also check out WOW magazine online at wowair.com.

WOWAIR.COM © WOW air - Katrínartún 4 - 105 Reykjavík - Iceland Tel: 00 354 590 3020 - E-mail: magazine@wow.is Oddi environmentally certified printing company All rights reserved. Reprinting, direct quoting or recapitulation prohibited except with a written permit from publisher.

BRING YOUR COSTCO CARD WITH YOU TO ICELAND! Costco Iceland opened in May 2017. Just like other Costco warehouses, Costco Iceland offers one of the largest and most exclusive product category selections to be found under one roof.

Categories include groceries, confectionery, appliances, television and audio equipment, automotive supplies, tires, toys, hardware, sporting goods, jewellery, watches, cameras, books, housewares, apparel, health and beauty aids, furniture, office supplies and office equipment.

The warehouse also has a self-service gas station.

Kauptun 3, 210 Gardabaer Phone: +354 532 5555 Email: costco@costco.is

WAREHOUSE OPENING TIMES Monday - Friday: 10:00am to 9:00pm Saturday: 09:30am to 8:30pm Sunday: 10:00am to 6:00pm GAS STATION OPENING TIMES Monday - Friday: 07:00am to 10:00pm Saturday: 07:00am to 9.30pm Sunday: 07:00am to 7:00pm PHARMACY OPENING TIMES Monday - Friday: 11:00am to 7:00pm Sarurday: 10:00am to 6:00pm Sunday: 10:00am to 4:00pm

Issue five 11

A letter from the CEO

Dear friends, The airline industry is known for its turbulence, and the start of this fall was a bit crazy and very hectic for all of us at WOW air. But through it all, we have been showered with unbelievable support and encouragement from thousands of people all over the world who clearly appreciate our super low fares across the Atlantic and to and from Iceland.

I am extremely grateful and humbled by your support, and it’s an inspiration to continue on WOW air’s mission to enable everybody to fly by continuously offering the lowest possible fares. The WOW saga is just beginning, and nobody said it would be easy. I am very proud of what we have already achieved and the incredible team that has made WOW a reality.

There is no doubt in my mind that the opportunity to use Iceland’s unique location as a global hub to connect North America, Europe and Asia is real and within reach. It will require great collaboration between both the private and public sectors, significant investments and not least a lot of hard work from very dedicated people. If done correctly, Iceland and the whole world can benefit greatly through easier and more affordable airfares around the globe which hopefully makes the world a slightly smaller and better place.

Thank you for choosing WOW air and I look forward to seeing you on board one of our brand-new beautiful WOW aircraft!

Sincerely, Skúli Mogensen Founder and CEO of WOW air

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WOW Power to the people

Issue five 13

tours

Experience is everything When visiting Iceland or any other destination it always helps to be prepared. Most travelers study up on the city or country they’ll be going to, decide where they want to go, and what they want to do and see once they get there.

Photos: iStockphoto.com and courtesy of respective tour operators

B

ooking your tours and activities in advance is a great way to ensure that you’ll get the best price and not miss out on popular tours.

Through WOW air’s booking engine and websites, or directly through tours.wowair.com, you can now find some of the best tours in Iceland all at one place as well as multiple choices for other WOW destinations on both sides of the Atlantic. Here are three tours and activities in Iceland you should get excited about this season.

WHAT THE DUCK? There are many ways to explore Reykjavik but the quackiest one is the Reykjavik Duck Tour. As the latest addition to the Reykjavik tour scene, Duck Tours offers both regular bus views and spectacular harbor front views of the city, a vantage point no other bus tour can offer. With a funny and know­­­ ledge­­able guide to tell you about the buildings and

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WOW Power to the people

Through WOW air’s booking engine and websites, or directly through tours.wowair. com, you can now find some of the best tours in Iceland all at one place as well as multiple choices for other WOW destinations on both sides of the Atlantic.

#1

of things to Do in húsavík 2017

“ONE OF THE MOST INCREDIBLE DAYS OF MY LIFE”

Pick your tour!

HÚSAVÍK ORIGINAL WHALE WATCHING

SILENT WHALE WATCHING

An unforgettable whale watching exploration, recommended by thousands of travellers.

Glide silently alongside the whales on an electric boat. A tranquil whale watching experience.

BEST SELLER

CARBON-NEUTRAL

WHALES AND PUFFINS

WHALES AND SAILS

The perfect combination. A whale watching excursion with a stop by the peaceful Puffin Island.

Get close to the whales on board a traditional Icelandic sailboat and learn the old ways of sailing.

HOME OF THE PUFFINS

TRADITIONAL SAILING

call +354 464 7272 or book your adventure at

www.northsailing.is Issue five 15

There are many ways to explore Reykjavik but the quackiest one is the Reykjavik Duck Tour.

landmarks around town, the highlight of the tour is absolutely the moment the yellow bus drives into the sea. It is such a weird and wonderful experience that you almost forget that you’re sightseeing and start focusing on the great performance of this amphibious vehicle.

The Reykjavik Duck Tour starts and ends by the Harpa Concert Hall, and the bus is hard to miss.

Remember: If it looks like a duck, swims like a duck and quacks like a duck, it’s probably an amphibious bus from Reykjavik Duck Tours.

Duration: 80 minutes tours.wowair.com/tours/reykjavik-duck-tour

Check out Iceland’s most famous sights such as Geysir, Gullfoss and Þingvellir while the sun is shining and then head back to your hotel for a little R ’n R before joining your Northern Lights tour in the evening.

THE BEST COMBO AROUND Winter is coming and with it fewer crowds on the Golden Circle and, of course, Northern Lights. The Golden Circle and Northern Lights Combo Deal is a chance to get two great tours at a great price. Check out Iceland’s most famous sights such as Geysir, Gullfoss and Þingvellir while the sun is shining and then head back to your hotel for a little R ’n R before joining your Northern Lights tour in the evening.

Don’t worry—if you don’t see the Northern Lights on that night, you are welcome to join the tour again on another night, free of charge.

This is the perfect stop-over combo for sure!

Duration: 9 hours in total. tours.wowair.com/tours/golden-circle-northern-lights

GIVE YOURSELF SOME TIME From a short Reykjavik sightseeing tour to taking in the whole island, this 6-day tour around Iceland is the perfect way to see as much as possible during your vacation here. Starting at the Golden Circle and the South Coast this tour will take you through all those famous sights on the way and then surprise you with glacier hikes, whale watching and ice caving (in winter season) among other things.

And you’ll get to see what is probably the least explored region in Iceland, the East Fjords, an area which is in no way less magnificent than the rest of the island; it just happens to be the furthest away from the capital.

Don’t save time, spend it wisely by seeing as much of Iceland as you possibly can with this jam-packed adventure tour.

Duration: 6 days tours.wowair.com/tours/around-iceland-adventure

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WOW Power to the people

Winter is coming and with it fewer crowds on the Golden Circle and, of course, Northern Lights.

Experience the amazing LangjĂśkull glacier from the inside A rare, once in a lifetime opportunity

k Ă­ v a j k y e R d n a r e t n e c l l e f a s Ăş H m o r f Daily departures

Find us:

#intotheglacier

www.intotheglacier.is Issue five 17

Extreme Cycling

A BIKE AND BATH TOUR IN LAKE MÝVATN Extreme cycling in Lake Mývatn doesn’t necessarily involve daring descents or treacherous trails skirting mountainsides because its volatile volcanic environs is already an education in the extremities of raw nature.

by Shaun Busuttil

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WOW Power to the people

From secluded, intimate coastal walks, to extreme ice caving experi­ ences, the sweet sound of birds chirping and waves crashing by the cliffs, the peninsula could easily be one of your most memorable experiences in this country.

I’m about to ride through an area of extreme geology, an eruptive tract of the planet where piping-hot vents hiss and billow sulfuric steam through rifts in the earth at virtually every corner. It’s the kind of geology with severe anger-management issues, the type that will swallow you up good and proper—like some subterranean monster. And the only thing separating me from the fiery cauldron of magma below is a thin layer of volcanic rock. You can’t always feel its underground agitation, but you know it’s there, biding its time before unleashing its pent-up fury.

SMOKY HILLS A little dramatic? Perhaps. But just ask the locals of Reykjahlíð on the shores of Lake Mývatn in northern Iceland just how devastating the wrath of the omnipresent beast that lurks below their town can be.

From 1975 to 1984, the neighboring Krafla volcanic system erupted nine times, igniting an intense period of volcanic activity known as the Krafla Fires. After the initial eruption in 1975 which occurred five days before Christmas and lasted 12 hours, Reykjahlíð (“Smoky Hills” in Icelandic) was sentenced to nine years of insecurity as the threat of volcanic annihilation weighed ominously on its shoulders and the earth shifted beneath its feet, literally. During this nine-year seismic spell, the ground would heave and fall in sync with magma movements below, as if the great beast was breathing.

EXPLOSIVE GEOLOGY I received this local history lesson over a couple of strong lattes with Raggi from Mývatn Activity just moments ago, before doing one of his Bike and Bath tours, and my respect for Mother Nature is rocketing sky high. Not that I didn’t already respect the raw power of geology on this volatile island. The previous day I spent rafting down the East Glacial River near Varmahlíð—Iceland’s signature white water rafting trip and one of the most extreme experiences of my life.

In contrast, today’s itinerary, at least on paper, promises to be far less intense—a leisurely two-hour ride through a lunar landscape carved by glaciers and molded by volcanos followed by a relaxing soak in the Mývatn Nature Baths, the Blue Lagoon’s equally spectacular northern cousin. In fact, for the entire journey, I’ll be riding through a landmine of explosive geology, a dramatic set of global coordinates that are literally between mighty domains, where the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates engage in earth splitting action.

ANCIENT FORESTS On our saddles, we begin the tour by cycling past the cheapest home in Reykjahlíð.

“During the Krafla Fires, the foundation of the house ripped open, and now steam is escaping through the ground and into the basement. For obvious reasons, this is creating a big problem, and the resale value has substantially fallen,” Raggi tells me. Moving on—each turn of the pedals is met with crunchy protests beneath the tires as my bike grips the gravel track. It won’t be crunchy gravel the entire way, though, I’m told; there’ll be sections of road to ride on too.

Ahead the track passes through a small forest of downy birch, an ashy jumble of wrangled trunks and naked branches. Birch is the only tree species in Iceland capable of forming natural woodlands in this harsh environment. Presently they cover only a minuscule portion of the country (roughly one percent), but at one time more than a third of Iceland was adorned with this deciduous tree. It’s believed these birch forests were harvested for land-clearing and fuel when Norse settlers arrived in the second half of the 9th century.

WRESTLING WITH NATURE The trail continues north, passing small farmsteads guarded by majestic Icelandic horses. Further along, I spot the defensive wall constructed to protect Reykjahlíð from threatening lava flows during the Krafla Fires. Luckily the wall was never tested as the rogue lava streams chose a different path and spared the town of assured destruction. But it was close. Building walls and protecting themselves is nothing new for Icelanders who are used to wrestling with the formidable elements of their island.

For the next 10 minutes, the gravel path meanders around lava fields harboring mounds of jagged basalt melted into Issue five 19

distorted shapes and edges. In Icelandic folklore, anci­ent lava fields are said to contain the petrifi­ed bodies of trolls caught out by the sun and turned into stone for eternity. I can see why they believe that.

STEAM POWERED Pedaling further into the belly of the beast we enter the smoky Bjarnarflag geothermal area and its red and white geodesic domes.

These domes collect the rotten-egg-smelling sulfur billowing out of the boreholes dug up to power the Bjarnarflag Power Plant. Some of these holes reach over 2300m deep, puffing out steam at a whopping 200°C. You have to be careful where you dig, Raggi explains, as it’s possible to instigate man-made eruptions.

“It happened last century; the engineers were drilling for steam, but lava started shooting out and they had to plug it up quickly.”

The Bjarnarflag Power Plant is both Iceland’s smallest and oldest geothermal power station, and since 1969 it’s been supplying the local town with its energy. Its success in harnessing the earth’s geothermal activity inspired larger projects in Iceland, such as the construction of the nearby 60MW capacity Krafla Power Station in 1977, currently Iceland’s largest geo­­thermal power plant, supplying the country with a quarter of its energy needs.

GEOTHERMAL BAKERY Back on our bikes, we ride past a large turq­uoise pond—the remains of a former diatomite processing plant built in the late 60s. Although it looks inviting, especially on a chilly day, the water is toxic and not fit for bathing (not to be confused with the nearby Mývatn Nature Baths).

CAVERNOUS COMFORT

Raggi’s wife gives me a quick cooking class on baking hverabrauð (hot spring bread)—a version of Icelandic rúgbrauð (rye bread made from rye, flour, sugar, salt, yeast and water) that’s cooked in ovens heated by the area’s volcanic steam.

Time to set off to our second last stop, a 700-year-old steam cave. From at least the 14th century, local farmers, in that true Icelandic spirit, capitalized on the cave’s geothermal activity and turned it into a steam bath. Could there be a more relaxing and suitable reward after a hard day’s work in the cold and often icy conditions?

Crossing the road, we make a brief stop at the local underground bakery and its sub­­­terranean ovens. Raggi’s wife is there, and she gives me a quick cooking class on bak­­­ing hverabrauð (hot spring bread)—a version of Icelandic rúgbrauð (rye bread made from rye, flour, sugar, salt, yeast and water) that’s cooked in ovens heated by the area’s volcanic steam. These ovens are dug into the hot earth and covered with squares of wood and stones; it takes about 24 hours to bake a loaf. “We used to bake our bread on the other side of the road, next to the Bjarnar­­­flag Power Plant. But since the Krafla Fires, the steam hasn’t been hot enough for baking. So we dug some new ovens here,” she explains. Although rúg­­­­­brauð is also baked using modern con­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­ventional ovens in the rest of Iceland, hvera­­­­­­­­­­­­­brauð baked with volcanic steam has its own distinct taste—there’s nothing like it, I’m told.

The farmers built benches into the cave to make steam bathing more comfortable, but it eventually fell into disuse, as it remains today, although it’s still very active. “It’s windy today, but normally the whole cave and surrounding landscape is huffing and puffing with steam and smoke,” Raggi tells me. I believe him. The walls of rock inside the cave are warm, and I can feel surges of the dewy heat radiating out from its shadowy depths. You can still see remains of the old construction inside; outside, crow­­­berries and juniper berries grow along the ground.

EXTREME THERAPY We reach the Mývatn Nature Baths a little after 6 pm. Essentially the northern equivalent of the Blue Lagoon, but with far superior views, these local hot springs get their mineral-rich water from the nearby Bjarnarflag Power Plant. Before changing into my bathers and melting away in the turquoise lagoon, I’m treated to a little pre-soak snack of Arctic char on a freshlybaked slice of hverabrauð with butter and a little salt—a local favorite. It’s slightly sweet and decidedly moreish.

It’s then a bitingly cold dash to the bluetinted thermal waters of the hot springs, followed by an awkward stumble down its slippery ramp and finally into its 39-degree embrace. The evening sky is turning pink and red; it will never blacken, not at this time of the year. In a few days, hundreds of runners from around the world competing in the annual Mývatn Marathon will cross the finish line here, and the staff is in preparation mode. And just like this Bike and Bath tour, a relaxing soak in the volcanically-heated baths is the race’s welldeserved culmination—extreme geology has its benefits, too.

THE HOTTEST SPOTS NEAR LAKE MÝVATN Where to sleep: Hotel Laxá – hotellaxa.is Where to eat: Eldey restaurant at Hotel Laxá and Vogafjós – vogafjosfarmresort.is What to see: Dimmuborgir, Hverfjall, The Bird Museum, Krafla, Askja, Lofthellir Cave, Detti­ foss Waterfall, Goðafoss Waterfall … the list goes on What to do: Amazing activity tours with geo­ travel.is, scenic flights with Mýflug Air, a dog sledding tour with Snowdogs.is, super jeep and snowmobile tours with amazingnorth.is and so much more.

You can book the Bike and Bath tour and other great adventures with Myvatn Activity at hikeandbike.is.

For more information on the Myvatn Nature Baths go to myvatnnaturebaths.is

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WOW Power to the people

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Free WiFi www.re.is BSÍ Bus Terminal 101 Reykjavík

Issue five 21

WOW Photography

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WOW Power to the people

WOW Photography

THE

SHOT

Photographing Icelandic nature and weather conditions can make your usual photography sessions at home seem as difficult as sitting on your couch watching Netflix. This is why we’ve devised two great tutorials for photographing in Iceland. Enjoy and please #wowair if you share your awesome photos on Instagram.

by Guðrún Baldvina Sævarsdóttir Aerial photos: Haraldur Diego – www.overiceland.com Northern Lights photos: iStockphoto.com

Issue five 23

WOW Photography

Flying through the air and keeping an eye out for that perfect shot can be intense work, so using a continuous high mode while shoot­ ing, ups your chances of striking gold.

Just remember that this inturn requires a high-speed SD card.

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WOW Power to the people

Aerial photography If you are planning to check out Iceland (or any other land) by air, you probably want to take some photos but aerial photography can be a little tricky. If you’re a complete novice you might just end up with bland or blurred images that really depict none of the awesomeness you just witnessed.

Don’t worry, the simple shot guide to good aerial photography is about to become your best friend.

We teamed up with pilot and photographer Haraldur Diego who gave us a few tips to keep in mind when capturing stunning aerial photos.

underneath, Haraldur’s optimal aperture setting is F4.5 - F6.3. However, since most of the time you’d be shooting sub­jects at a great distance, you might want to set it higher.

SHUTTER SPEED Since you’re trying to capture your perfect shot from a moving air­­­plane, you’ll want to keep your shutter speed high. Haraldur recom­mends 1/1000 sec, but keep in mind that your needs will differ accord­­ing to the distance of your subject.

ISO If you’re working with a high shutter speed, bump up your ISO accordingly. Somewhere in the range of 400-1600 is optimal.

work, so using a continuous high mode while shoot­ing, ups your chances of striking gold. Just remember that this in-turn requires a high-speed SD card.

AN ADORABLE FLYING DOG Along for the ride was Haraldur‘s trusty servant, Skuggi the dog. A dog may not be necessary for that perfect aerial shot, but comes highly recommended. We just can’t get over how adorable this team is.

Haraldur Diego offers flight services for photographers who need to get on “higher ground” for some jaw-dropping aerial photographs of their own so check out his website www.overiceland.com for more information and stunning photos.

APERTURE

CONTINUOUS HIGH MODE

Find a pilot, have fun and prepare to be amazed!

When shooting at a downward angle, such as trying to capture rivers or landscapes

Flying through the air and keeping an eye out for that perfect shot can be intense

Check out our aerial tutorial video and more of Haraldur’s photos at wowair.us/magazine/perfect-shot-aerial-tutorial

Issue five 25

WOW Photography

Northern Lights photography You might have come here for the Northern Lights but you should stay for the photo­­ graphy lesson. Taking photos of these green goblins is more difficult than it appears but if you know how to set your camera you just might be going home with your very own northern lights photo to show your friends.

Professional photographer and aurora borealis hunter Óli Haukur, aka OZZO, gave us a few essential tips to keep in mind when capturing the Northern Lights.

TIMING This is obviously going to be your most important issue. The Northern Lights are natural phenomena that occur all year

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round but are only visible in the dark and clear skies. This means that Iceland’s near 24-hour daylight in summer won’t get you very far for that perfect Aurora Borealis shot. Time your trip somewhere between September and early April and get familiar with the Icelandic Met Office’s Aurora Forecast to stay up to speed on visibility and aurora predictions. en.vedur.is/weather/forecasts/aurora/

APERTURE You’re essentially trying to capture a moving ray of light in the pitch-black night sky so keep your aperture large, somewhere in the range of F1.4 – F2.8, or as low as possible.

Remember to dress well, because standing outside on a dark winter’s night in Iceland can be both a magical and a very cold experience.

Mittens and a warm beverage are always a good idea and getting out of the lightpolluted city is a must.

speed as fast as possible so the lights don’t get blurry. Somewhere in the range of 5-10” seconds is optimal.

ISO We want to be as light sensitive as possible for the Northern Lights so we set our ISO very high, 1600-6400 is optimal.

Remember to dress well, because standing outside on a dark winter’s night in Iceland can be both a magical and a very cold experience. Mittens and a warm beverage are always a good idea and getting out of the light-polluted city is a must.

Have fun, stay warm and prepare to be amazed!

SHUTTER SPEED You are shooting a long exposure and the lights are moving, so try to keep the shutter

Go to wowair.us/magazine/perfect-shot-northernlights to check out our video tutorial and photos by OZZO.

W E L C O M E

O N

B O A R D !

Elevate your encounter with Iceland!

Amazing helicopter tours around Iceland for individuals or groups.

You can choose from a 20 minutes city sightseeing tour up to a whole day journey and everything in between.

Our service team is on duty 24/7 and will happily assist you at any time.

Check out our tours and prices on our website.

www.rh.is ¡ (+354) 589 1000 ¡ info@rh.is

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Adventures around the corner

WELCOME TO THE WEST There’s a reason you’ve come to Iceland, and it’s surely not to stay in your cozy hotel room watching Netflix all day, while overlooking dozens of other fellow travelers being swept away by the mild Icelandic breeze (not that we have anything against that, the Netflix part, that is).

by Donna Tsaneva

Iceland spoils its visitors and locals alike by giving them unprecedented jaw-dropping eye candy, from ghostly backdrops to colorfully painted mountains upon end. With so many options to choose from and different routes to take, planning an Icelandic road trip can be as intimidating as it is exciting! After all, choices mean decisions and decisions, even when it comes to holidays, are sometimes tough!

ANOTHER DIRECTION The South Coast is definitely one of the most scenic drives in Iceland. If you’ve already covered it or are thinking of being adven­­ tur­­­ous and taking another route, release your inner daredevil and go explore Iceland’s West­­ern region!

This territory is one of the country’s eight regions. With a mere 15,000 inhabitants, chances are, you’ll be bumping into more

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From secluded, intimate coastal walks, to extreme ice caving experi­ ences, the sweet sound of birds chirping and waves crashing by the cliffs, the peninsula could easily be one of your most memorable experiences in this country.

sheep and tourists than locals. As with anything and everything here, this region’s extraordinary beauty will have you captiva­ ted from start to finish.

A LITTLE BIT OF EVERYTHING The West encompasses a wide array of scenery and activities, to suit everyone’s taste—be it the Sagas, lava caves, hot springs, volcanoes, horseback riding or more adventurous quests—this area is so diverse that it is deemed to be a micro­­ cosm of everything that Iceland has to offer. It’s close enough to Reykjavik to make a day trip out of it yet fascinating enough to stay a night or two. The roads are well maintained and easier to travel dur­­ing unfavorable weather conditions.

Wondering where to start your adventure?

Here’s an essential list of places to inspire

you to get up and go. And remember, in Iceland, adventure is truly just around the corner!

SNÆFELLSNES PENINSULA Nestled in the western territories of the island, Snæfellsnes Peninsula is truly a treat for the eyes and ears of its visitors.

From secluded, intimate coastal walks, to extreme ice caving experiences, the sweet sound of birds chirping and waves

Snæfellsnes Lighthouse.

KIRKJUFELL, AKA CHURCH MOUNTAIN, IS ONE OF ICELAND’S MOST PHOTOGRAPHED SITES, SUMMER AND WINTER ALIKE.

crashing by the cliffs, the peninsula could easily be one of your most memorable experiences in this country. It comes as no surprise that this area has attracted the likings of grandiose icons—Jules Vernes portrayed the peninsula in his novel Journey to the Center of the Earth and The Secret Life of Walter Mitty was filmed there.

AKRANES AND SNÆFELLSNES LIGHTHOUSE If you’ve been in Iceland long enough, you’ve surely noticed the array of beautiful light­houses scattered around the island’s coastline. There’s definitely something special about watching daylight slowly fading into the depths of the ocean while the magically lit skies act as the perfect stage for the tall standing coastal structures.

Búðakirkja, one of Iceland’s three black churches, is idyllically nestled in between lava fields and picturesque mountainous surroundings.

HRAUNFOSSAR AND BARNAFOSS

LANGJÖKULL

These two waterfalls are only a stone’s throw from each other and are charact­ eriz­ed by their dreamy milky blue tones which contrast with the surrounding nature, creating a captivating image.

Iceland’s second largest ice cap Lang­­jökull, extends just over 95km2, with ice as thick as 600 meters! For the more ad­­venturous, this is the perfect base for all kinds of extreme activities—snowmobiling to ice caving, modified extreme truck tours and so forth.

KIRKJUFELL The name might not ring any bells, how­­­­­ever, chances are, you’ve seen this moun­tain at some point during your Ice­landic holiday research. Kirkjufell, aka Church Mountain, is one of Iceland’s most photographed sites, summer and winter alike. Stretching just below 500 meters, its absolute sym­ me­­try and divine water reflection dis­­close its celebrated status.

The places mentioned above are only a small fraction of what natural wonders lie within Iceland’s western region. Tips and advice are always helpful; especially when planning road trips into unknown territories.

However, the adventure truly begins when you realize you’ve totally misread the map, have no clue where you are, and then choose a direction and just go for it!

Happy travels!

THE BLACK CHURCH Búðakirkja, one of Iceland’s three black churches, is idyllically nestled in between lava fields and picturesque mountainous surroundings. Its eerie charm and serene isolation give its visitors a sense of ghostly calm. A few pathways pass up and down the lava fields, with one leading to the beautiful coastline, where you can enjoy endless hours of undisturbed peace.

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Give back to Icelandic nature

HOW YOUR CHANGE COULD MAKE A BIG CHANGE

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Phenomenal nature is the top reason for visiting Iceland but Icelandic nature is fragile and could use a little help. For this reason, WOW air wants to offer you the chance to give back to nature by donating directly to the Icelandic Environment Association, Landvernd, Iceland’s largest environmental NGO, which will put your coins into good use.

Photos: Courtesy of Kristján Ingi Einarsson – www.kristjaningi.is

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Give back to Icelandic nature

HOW CAN I HELP? During your flight we'll provide you with the opportunity to donate any foreign change or leftover currency that you would like to contribute. Your donations will be sent directly Landvernd, who will use the funds to support its efforts to safeguard and protect Icelandic nature.

WOW air is simply the means of tran­­­sporta­ tion. The donations come from you, our guest, and go straight to Landvernd. Let’s all help Landvernd make sure that Icelandic nature will still be as incredible when our grandkids come to visit.

WHAT IS LANDVERND? Landvernd is a non-profit environmental and nature conservation organization, established in 1969. The main goals of Landvernd are to protect Iceland’s nature and environment, restore degraded environments and promote sustainability in Iceland among residents and visitors alike. This is done through education, by influencing lawmaking and decisionmaking and by taking action.

PROTECTING THE LARGEST UNTAMED WILDERNESS IN EUROPE Landvernd’s biggest conservation goal at the moment is the establishment of a national park in the Central Highland of Iceland. The Central Highland is one of Iceland’s greatest treasures, containing many active volcanoes, glaciers, voluminous rivers and waterfalls, colorful hot springs and mud pools, vast lava fields and broad expanses of black sand,

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Landvernd’s biggest conserva­ tion goal at the moment is the establishment of a national park in the Central Highland of Iceland.

all contrasted with oases of vibrant but vulnerable vegetation. Such an amazing collection of natural jewels is rare in the world mainly because such vast, unpopulated areas where nature alone rules, have been disappearing. You can see short videos of the stunning Highlands and sign their petition online to urge lawmakers in Iceland to designate the amazing, untamed Highlands as a national park www.halendid.is ECO-SCHOOLS If only we had an education program running worldwide that would increase awareness about environmental matters and call people to action... wait a minute, WE DO! The Eco-Schools program is the world’s largest environmental education pro­­­gram and is run globally by the non-govern­­ mental organization FEE (Foundation for Environmental Education). Land­­­vernd runs the program in Iceland, and over 200 schools participate which is about half of all schools in Iceland.

With over 51,000 schools in 67 countries around the world participating, students in kindergartens, primary schools, high schools and universities are learning about the environment and what they can do to protect nature. Their projects trickle out from the schoolrooms and spread out to the local communities as parent- or community participation is encouraged.

Through this program, young people with good ideas, who take initiative, can

experience a sense of achievement at having contributed in the environmental management initiatives of their schools, ultimately steering them towards certification and the prestige which comes with being awarded a Green Flag—the greatest award for the Eco-Schools!

The Eco-School’s goal is to engage the youth of today to protect the planet of tomorrow. As simple as that!

Does your child, or did you, attend an EcoSchool? Find out more at www.ecoschools. global and graenfaninn.landvernd.is Thank you for your contribution toward protecting Icelandic nature.

Now get out there and enjoy it!

Photographer Kristján Ingi Einarsson was so inspired by this project he decided to let us use his gorgeous photographs for this article in addition to personally donating to Landvernd 5% of the sales from his latest photography book, Unique Iceland, available at most bookstores in Iceland. Big thanks from all of us to Kristján Ingi!

Join us, either here in Iceland, or in your home country.

Every person can make a difference.

More at www.letsdoitworld.org Thank you for your contribution toward protecting Icelandic nature.

Now get out there and enjoy it!

Read more about Landvernd and its efforts to protect Icelandic nature by visiting their website, www.Landvernd.is

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by Christopher Canal Photos: Tinna Scram Still: From music video by Guðný Rós

Hear us out!

Song of a siren María Magnúsdóttir is a singer, composer and producer whose new album Sinking Island has received critical acclaim. G ­ arðabær-born, Reykjavík-based Magnúsdóttir released her first album at the age of 24. For four years she studied jazz vocals and composition at the prestigious Royal Conservatoire in the Netherlands which was followed by a Masters at Goldsmiths, University of London. It was at Goldsmiths that the artist wrote and recorded Sinking Island. Aside from her solo work, Magnúsdóttir is one half of the electro-pop duo Early Late Twenties and often performs as a jazz singer.

“Some songs drew from former ex­­­peri­­ ence or books I read but most came from a tough break-up I had with my former partner."

M

agnúsdóttir has just released the video for Sinking Island, a single from her last 12-track album of the same name. The song is a striking, visceral reflection on a b ­ reak-up.

The music video for Sinking Island was filmed in the idyllic forest and lake at Heiðmörk just outside the capital and has been selected for the Northern Wave Film Festival 2018 in Rif running from the 26-28 October.

I am Icelandic: “There is a lot of magic in our history. There is something deep from where we are from that you can bring out, a fear of nature, a fear of what is hidden there, of trolls or elves or anything. When you read stories written by the people that used to live here long ago it feels like

it was a strange fairy tale. People didn’t know what to expect. Life was real and unreal.”

I am an electro-acoustic folk-pop artist: “When I made Sinking Island I was com­­­ bining a lot of disciplines. While I was studying in the Netherlands I was writing music for a small orchestra, for strings and brass.

After coming to London, I wanted to find a different thread and brought all these arrangements into an electric production that I could order so that I would be able to perform alone as a solo act. On Sinking Island, I decided to combine these disciplines. At the core of my music is folk-pop broadened out with an electroacoustic approach.”

My role-models: “Bat for Lashes, Laura Mvula, Feist—women who are multiin­strumentalists and creative minds who bring together all sorts of musical influences and disciplines through their music. I seek inspiration in lots of diff­­er­­ ent areas. I can get lost listening to rap for months at a time. The world is open.

I believe that what you take in is what comes out. If you want to write poetry, you have to read poetry.”

Sinking Island came from many t­ hings: “Some songs drew from former ex­­­peri­­ ence or books I read but most came from a tough break-up I had with my former partner. Sinking Island is a break-up song.

My ex-partner realized, accepted and came out as a trans woman after we had

Issue five 35

Hear us out! been together for more than six years. It was really difficult for us both but no one was to blame. We learned we had to end the relationship although the love was still there. The empty horizon lies ahead as the island that held the life I knew sinks into the ocean.”

“Icelanders are doers. We are constantly doing something. The greatest of all greats in Iceland is, oddly enough, to be busy doing lots of different things at the same time and be almost overwhelmed by them."

Creative conscription: “We are a small country. Every Icelander connects with the need for a break from the same community here. You want to broaden your horizons. You want to leave for a while. I think this is really healthy for everyone. I have been joking that in some countries you have to go into the army for a year. In Iceland, I would almost like to see that you have to live abroad for a while. A lot of Icelanders do that and I think they all benefit.”

Space traveler: “I am in awe of the sea.

When I was living abroad, I missed that headspace. I needed the sea, the moun­­ tains, the shore. For Icelanders, space is really important, for us to be able to walk out of the door and go somewhere and be all alone.”

Touching from a distance: “The light is colder here. It’s bluer, weird and otherworld­ly. I still don’t know how to explain it. When I return home from traveling the

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first thing I do is breathe. I feel like I am awake again. I am still struck by nature here. ‘What is this place?’ It almost brings out tears.”

Downtime: “I really like good food and drinks and hanging out with friends for those. I like to go for coffee at Te og kaffi on Laugavegur. I go for beer and some­­ times poetry at the rooftop bar at Loft Hostel. My favorite fish restaurant in town is Messinn. I like having fancy cocktails at Sushi Social, where there’s also great sushi. Spánski offers amazing red wine and Spanish tapas. Finally, when out partying, I usually wind up dancing in Húrra or Kaffibarinn.”

Being somebody: “Icelanders are doers.

We are constantly doing something. The greatest of all greats in Iceland is, oddly enough, to be busy doing lots of different things at the same time and be almost overwhelmed by them. That is success. I know it’s a less romantic idea of why we are very creative, but we are not scared of showing it, almost like children in a way.

We are not so many people. There is not as much competition. It’s like ‘Hey, look what I made’.”

New generation: “From a young age, music and the arts are encouraged as a

cre­­ative outlet. It is not something reserv­ ed for the elite. It is not like: ‘You are going to study violin from the age of three to become the next greatest violin player!’

It is much more like: ‘This is going to be good for you as a person’.”

María Magnúsdóttir is a singer, composer and producer.

Artistic therapy: “Everyone has their own reason for wanting to sing and it is always personal. Sometimes it’s almost like therapy. It can be to overcome anxiety or stage-fright or just to find something to enjoy. It gives me a lot of joy to help people in that way if I can. Some people may never want to step onto the stage but they are doing it for themselves and I admire that. When people are authentic something magical will come out.”

Go to www.mimramusic.com, or find “mimramusic” on Facebook for new releases and videos.

Proudly Making Iceland a Hot Destination.

We could talk forever about how interesting our clean energy production at Hellisheidi is. But, instead, let’s see what some of our guests at the Geothermal Exhibition have to say on TripAdvisor: “A must see activity”, “Bucket List”, “... interactive and inspiring”, “Now I’m impressed!”

ENNEMM / SÍA /

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We hope to welcome you too on your trip to Iceland at the most powerful exhibition in the world.

Only 20 min. drive from Reykjavík.

A perfect stop on your way to or from the city.

The exhibition is open every day from 9:00-17:00. Please direct any inquiries to exhibition@on.is Tel: (+354) 591 2880 www.geothermalexhibition.com Issue five 37

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The perfect stopover spot

REYKJANES PENINSULA Reykjanes, or the Reykjanes Peninsula, in Southwest Iceland offers fascinating natural wonders and is one of the most accessible parts of the island all year round.

by Einar Pรกll Svavarsson

Issue five 39

The perfect stopover spot Here, the Mid-Atlantic Rift between the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates can be observed, and there are two active geothermal areas with hot springs and steam vents. It is home to various kinds of craters and has some large lava fields that surfaced only a few hundred years ago. If you are interested in hiking, the Reykjanes Peninsula also has some short hiking trails and small mountains to climb that offer spectacular views. The shoreline also offers dramatic cliffs and a view of powerful waves crashing against lava. Small towns and villages are spread out along a scenic drive await exploration

If you are planning a short visit to Iceland and want to see some fantastic sites and natur­ al wonders without going far from Reykjavik, you should consider the Reykjanes Peninsula.

between continents where you can walk from the North American tectonic plate to the Eurasian plate in just one minute. If you are still game for another adventure after visiting the old lighthouse in Garður, you can drive the 10-kilometer gravel road to walk through Lambafellsgjá’s narrow ravine (not for those of us who are claustrophobic). Then, after a beautiful day, you can make your way back to Reykjavik THE PENINSULA OF FISHING AND FERTILE FISHING GROUNDS If you are interested in history, you can also visit Selatangar, a fishing station that started to provide fish and work as early as the 14th century. Like many places that had rich fishing grounds right outside the shore and a good landing place, Selatangar was, at the time, a prominent place to provide food for the islanders.

However, probably due to the harsh lava environment, it never became a town or a village like some other fishing stations on Reykjanes Peninsula, such as Grindavík, Keflavík, Njarðvík, Hafnir, Garður, and Sandgerði, which developed during the 19th and 20th centuries. These are all small towns and villages that you can visit on your tour around the Reykjanes Peninsula.

LEAST-MENTIONED IN SAGAS In medieval times, Icelandic scholars, monks and writers wrote sagas of Icelanders— stories about how this Nordic island was settled between the years 870 to 1070.

There are about 40 in total, all great epics, which describe the land, farms, the people, their families, life, friendship, and disputes.

Most of the regions in Iceland have detailed documentation of the settlement, except for the Reykjanes Peninsula, which was rarely mentioned for a particular reason.

At the time of settlement, and until medieval times, the peninsula had many eruptions that made farming there impossible. If there was a farm to plant and harvest in the beginning, it was most likely covered with glowing lava soon after the first settlement.

Thus, almost no one lived there at that time.

Furthermore, most parts of the country are usually packed with small streams, creeks and rivers or easily accessible freshwater, but on the Reykjanes Peninsula, you will only find one or two very small and almost dried-up streams. The peninsula is very porous and leaky, and most of the water is groundwater.

Large chambers of freshwater can, on the other hand, be found more or less under the lava in Reykjanes. Therefore, it is very difficult to find a place for farming and agriculture there. During settlement, it was almost uninhabitable.

THE GATE TO ICELAND AND THE MODERN DAY Although not mentioned as an exciting place to live early in Iceland’s early history, the Reykjanes Peninsula became vital around the middle of the 20th century. As the location for the US naval base after WWII, the small and isolated island in the north became a breeding ground for international culture and relations. As the airport grew larger and tourism increased, Reykjanes Peninsula became the gateway to Iceland. Today, it is the home to Iceland’s international airport.

THE PERFECT STOPOVER DRIVE If you are planning a short visit to Iceland and want to see some fantastic sites and natural wonders without going far from Reykjavik, you should consider the Reykjanes Peninsula. To start the tour, it’s less than a half an hour from the capital, and you can visit most of the areas in the peninsula the whole year round. Besides being a geological wonderland, there are hiking trails, museums, a variety of restaurants and hotel accommodations.

For the most budget friendly experience on the Reykjanes Peninsula try basehotel.is, they also offer the cheapest beer you’ll find at a bar in Iceland.

THE MANY INTERESTING PLACES Today, conversely, the Reykjanes Peninsula has many areas visited by tourists. If you are staying in Iceland for a few days or are on a short stopover, visiting the Reykjanes Peninsula is an excellent choice. Driving the circle from Reykjavík to Kleyfarvatn, the largest lake on the Reykjanes Peninsula, and from there to the tip of the peninsula through the charming small village of Garður, then back to Reykjavík, is a grand day tour. Close to Lake Kleyfarvatn, you will find the colorful geothermal area, Seltún, with boiling clay and small, smoking, hot springs. Nearby, you can stop at the explosion crater, Grænavant Lake, and Eldborg crater, which erupted 5000-6000 years ago.

Leaving the craters behind, you can stop by the magnificent Krísuvíkurberg Cliff to view the many layers of lava molded by the mighty forces of the Atlantic Ocean. On the way to the fabled Gunnuhver Hot Spring, stop by for a dip at the world-renowned Blue Lagoon, followed by a visit to the famous bridge

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Laugafell.

About the author: Einar Páll Svavarsson is a political scientist turned photographer and writer with decades of interest and experience traveling in Iceland. Einar is also the owner and creator of one of the largest information website about Iceland – Hit Iceland.

For more see hiticeland.com

VISIT THE ICELANDIC WORLD OF TULIPOP

Visit our flagship store at Skólavörðustígur 43 Shop online at www.tulipop.com Issue five 41

1/10

ICE LAND

Glaciers and ice cover one-tenth of the largely green land we call Iceland.

Text and photos: Pรกll Stefรกnsson WOW Power to the people

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Lake Hvítárvatn and Norðurjökull glacier tongue in Langjökull glacier.

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ICE LAND By far Vatnajökull Glacier is the largest in Iceland, and the largest glacier in the world outside the polar regions, covering 8 percent of the country.

HIGH AND MIGHTY The white veil of Vatnajökull’s ice conceals the highest mountains in the land, the greatest among them Hvannadalshnjúkur in Öræfajökull, towers more than 2 km into the sky.

All the contrasts of the island can be found around the rim of Vatnajökull: colorful rhyolite of Lónsöræfi, whole cities of icebergs biding their time, floating in the glacial lagoon of Jökulsárlón, mossy craters of Lakagígar, and the lakedotted landscape of Veiðivötn.

On a clear day, Snæfellsjökull, Iceland’s west­ernmost glacier can been spotted over the Faxaflói Bay, 120 km/78 miles north and west from Reykjavík.

The glaciers of Iceland are in a league of their own, an awesome and enchant­ ing one. A guided tour into this world takes you to the intriguing land we call— Ice-Land.

THE LIST OF SIX LARGEST GLACIERS IN ICELAND

5

7 2

3

A WHITE CROWN From afar, Snæfellsjökull, one of Iceland’s smallest glaciers, seems to float on the surface of the sea like a perfect mountain, crowned white, sailing the ocean.

6 4

1

1. Vatnajökull 2. Langjökull 3. Hofsjökull 4. Mýrdalsjökull 5. Drangajökull 6. Eyjafjallajökull

7. Snæfellsjökull

All year people hike on Sólheimajökull glacier tongue in Mýrdalsjökull glacier.

Langjökull glacier, the second largest glacier in Iceland.

People climbing the Hvannadalshnúkur in Öræfajökull glacier / volcano, Inside an ice-cave in Vatnajökull glacier. the highest peak in Iceland, 2110 m / 6952 ft.

Snæfellsjökull glacier, sitting on top of stratovolcano, West Iceland.

Jökulsárlón, glacier lagoon, in the shadow of mighty Vatnajökull glacier. Hiking on Fallsjökull glacier tongue.

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Issue five 45

Take a hike

Walking through the set of Burial Rights Take a hike through love, passion, jealousy, murders, trial and executions in North Iceland.

But first, you’ve got to read one book.

by Einar Skúlason

W

hen you walk close to the sea­­­front at Illugastaðir Farm or near the Þrístapar Hills close to Vatns­dals­­hólar Hills there is not much in the en­viron­ment suggesting it was the stage of murd­ers and the last executions in Iceland. The numerous seals and birds of Illuga­ staðir are the main focus of one’s attention and the horses grazing near Þrístapar (Triple Hillocks) are more likely to raise your curiosity than the low hills themselves. However, once you hear the true story of Agnes and the other characters of the wonderfully written book Burial Rites by Hannah Kent, this area will transform and you will see it in a wholly different way.

A STORY COMES TO LIFE As you walk around Illugastaðir, you might wonder where Agnes went to pour out her disa­ppointment and anger when she found out that the 15-yearold girl Sigríður had taken her place as mistress of

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The landscape around Þrístapar hasn’t changed much since 1830 so it is still possible to see roughly the same scenery as Agnes did in the last moments of her life.

the house as well as in the bed of Natan.

Perhaps she walked to the oceanfront and saw the waves come in one after the other while the wind blew in her face and finally dried off the tears while she tried to swallow the bitter disappointment.

The last executions had been 40 years prior to the cold day on January 12, 1830 when Agnes and Friðrik were beheaded for the murder of Natan. They are both said to have shown remorse in their interviews with priests leading to the

execution but that didn’t change the verdict.

SEE IT BEFORE IT BECOMES FAMOUS The landscape around Þrístapar hasn’t changed much since 1830 so it is still possible to see roughly the same scenery as Agnes did in the last moments of her life. It was in the middle of the winter, so the snow could have covered most of the area and the sounds would have been from a raven and muffled sounds from the spectators.

Hannah Kent’s bestseller, Burial Rites, has been very well received and is said to be both realistic and very well written.

Hannah spent a year in Skagafjörður in North Iceland as an exchange student, which is how she heard of this sad history.

A Hollywood producer has bought the film rights, and preparations have started as Jennifer Lawrence has already been cast in the lead role. Filming will probably begin at the end of this year. Illugastaðir and Þrístapar might become world famous in the years to come.

Þrístapar and Illugastaðir are close to Route 1 (The Ring Road) in Húnavatnssýsla County in the northwestern region of Iceland. Close by is a popular seal colony and the famous Hvítserkur basalt stack that looks like a rhinoceros or dragon, depending on who you ask.

Try the Wapp A guided hike along these historic places is available in the Wapp – Walking app. Available for Android and iOS. Wapp – Walking app offers 260 guided walks in Iceland, from long Highland hikes to short city walks.

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A WOW WORD OF ADVICE

Drivers beware. Unpaved roads are more common in Iceland than one might think.

Stay safe on the roads When Mother Nature created Iceland, she was in a mood. Getting killed is an actual threat when travelling in the spectacular, yet brutal, Icelandic wilderness.

The natural forces should be respected and feared, this is not the place to be reckless. And yet, it is far too common for foreign travelers not to take this threat seriously, even at a fatal cost.

by Eygló Árnadóttir Photo: iStockphoto.com / Jindřich Blecha

I

celandic roads are mostly narrow with little room to pass, even with risky surroundings on each side of the road. Pulling over onto the shoulder can be very dangerous and can interfere with other drivers’ sight lines. Far too many foreign drivers underestimate the danger and simply pull over to the side whenever something photogenic catches their eye. Don’t do that, as it is both illegal and dangerous.

There are many side roads, farm entrances and lookout spots where you can pull off. Just wait a bit instead of taking the risk, there are plenty of breathtaking views ahead. And please note that off-road driving is strictly forbidden in Iceland!

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HEADING TO THE HIGHLAND? The gravel roads to the Icelandic Highland are normally open from the beginning of July until the end of September. These risky roads require a 4x4 truck and the drivers’ complete focus as they can be very rocky, steep and muddy. They also often make it necessary for drivers to ford rivers, which is a tricky business and can easily go wrong. Some rivers aren’t even passable on a regular 4x4 truck, let alone a small car. With no warning signs showing the safest way to enter a given river, many foreign drivers simply head on without hesitation, making summer a busy season for the Icelandic Search and Rescue teams who repeatedly have to save stranded passengers in cars that

In case of an emergency call 112. Download the 112 Iceland app to your phone, where pressing one button calls for help while sending your location by text.

get stuck. Even when everyone gets out safely, water damages to rental cars make for sky high repair bills – and rental car insurances do not cover river crossings!

What a way to spoil a great vacation.

DO THE HOMEWORK! Educate yourself on how to stay safe in Icelandic wilderness. Follow every safety warning and always listen to your guide – Icelanders are a relatively laid-back bunch, so when they shout danger they mean it. When driving you always need to know the road status. For information on road conditions and weather, call 1777 (or +354 522 1100); open 8-16 in the summer.

Call 1778 for an English answering machine with similar information.

r e t p o c i l He urs o T WANT TO FLY OVER MOUNTAINTOPS, ACTIVE VOLCANOES AND ANCIENT GLACIERS?

TOUR PRICES FROM 27.900 ISK PER PERSON

TEL: +354 562 2500 INFO@HELICOPTER.IS

NAUTHÓLSVEGI 58D 101 REYKAVÍK

Issue five 49

Discover the suburbs

Three museums – One bus route Some of Iceland’s most interesting museums are a little off the beaten track but well worth the scenic bus ride into three of Reykjavik’s suburbs.

Bus route no. 1

Staying cool in Kópavogur Gerðarsafn – Kópavogur Art Museum is a progressive museum with an emphasis on modern and contemporary art.

Located in the heart of Kópavogur, the museum sits next to Kópavogur Church, a symbol of the town. Gerðarsafn, which opened in 1994, is the only museum in Iceland founded in honor of a female artist, sculptor Gerður Helgadóttir (19281975).

Gerður was a pioneer in abstract sculpture in Iceland and in the mid-20th century was well known in the art circles of Paris. Aside from her sculptural works she also worked in mosaic and stained glass. Works by Gerður can also be seen in France and Germany.

Gerðarsafn Museum’s summer exhibition: GERÐUR | A Retrospective, seeks to open up the world of Gerður, her innovative artistic practice and the broad spectrum of her works.

Gerðarsafn - Kópavogur Art Museum I Hamraborg 4 I 200 Kópavogur I tel.+354 441 7600 I Opening hours: Tue-Sun 11 am – 5 pm I gerdarsafn.is

Great designs in Garðabær The Museum of Design and Applied Art collects and preserves the part of Icelandic cultural history encompassing design, especially from the beginning of the 20th century to the present day. Since its foundation in 1998, the museum has showcased many of Iceland’s greatest design and curated exhibitions of great interest. Their latest exhibition is Imaginarium of Kron by Kronkron, displaying the creations of husbandand-wife team Magni Þorsteinsson and Hugrún Árnadóttir who have designed 1,200 pairs of shoes over the past ten years. This retrospective of their work features 600 pairs of unique handcrafted shoes.

Also exhibiting at the Museum of Design and Applied Art is Behind the Scenes with Einar Þorsteinn. In 2014 architect and mathematician Einar Þorsteinn Ásgeirsson (1942-2015) donated most of the contents of his workshop to the museum, including diaries, photographs, drawings, calculations, sketchbooks, models and furniture.

Don’t forget to stop by the Museum Shop on your way out. It features work that is related to current and past exhibitions as well as the permanent collection. Live exhibitions and pop-ups are part of the shop.

Museum of Design and Applied Art I Garðatorg 1 I 210 Garðabær I Tel. +354 512 1525 I Opening hours: Tue-Sun 12-5 pm I honnunarsafn.is

Summer in Hafnarborg Hafnarborg - The Hafnarfjörður Center of Culture and Fine Art Museum is a dynamic and ambitious institution and an important factor in the cultural life in the town of Hafnarfjörður.

Hafnarborg preserves Hafnarfjörður’s art collection, ensuring that this heritage remains in public view. During the summer of 2018, an exhibition of both treasures and curiosities from the collection will mark the museum’s 35th anniversary.

From July 7–15 the second edition of the Hafnarborg Songfest will be held at the museum.

The aim is to celebrate song and increase knowledge of singing through concerts, master classes, work­ shops and videos. This year, in celebration of the centennial of Iceland’s sovereignty, the focus will be especially on Icelandic music.

Hafnarborg Center of Culture and Fine Art I Strandgata 34 I 220 Hafnarfjörður I tel. +354 585 5790 I Opening hours: Wed-Mon 12-5 pm, closed on Tuesdays I hafnarborg.is

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KRYDD Restaurant & Bar Opening hours: Sun-Thurs: 11:00 am – 12 pm and Fri-Sat: 11 am – 1 am.

KRYDD Restaurant & Bar Strandgata 34 220 Hafnarfjordur Tel: + 354 558 2222 – Email: krydd@kryddveitingahus.is www.kryddveitingahus.is

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The Gastric Gem of Hafnarfjörður!

Located in the heart of Hafnarfjörður, the quaint yet funky town known as Iceland’s “Notting Hill,” the fabulously fun KRYDD Restaurant & Bar is a feast for the eyes and taste-buds.

his newly opened and vibrant dining experi­ ence, offers an original and exciting concept with a bold blend of chic modern and rustic, organic wooden touches. KRYDD is unique, with its roomy high ceilings, beautiful timber finishes, comfortable, relaxed seating and chill areas … and an impressively large bar made from reclaimed harbor wood!

The walls are decorated with striking original Icelandic artwork that fuses perfectly with the elegant yet earthy feel of this impressive, new dining spot. The fabulously different and funky décor and hip relaxing ambiance promise a fun night out!

KRYDD’s extensive, fun and varied menu offers just about anything for anyone and caters to vegans and vegetarians as well. With a vast array of surprising gastric delights, KRYDD’s kitchen is open from 11 am to 10 pm every day and the bar (with light dishes off the menu available) stays open until midnight on weekdays and 1 am on weekends.

One of the few places in Iceland to offer brunch, KRYDD has a delicious “all you can eat” buffet brunch available on Saturdays and Sundays from 11 am to 3 pm.

Cocktails, cocktails and more cocktails and an extensive wine and beer list, KRYDD’s bar has happy hour every day between 4 and 6pm!

From brunches to happy hour, lunch, dinner and a fabulous and professional bar service, KRYDD should be your choice for a unique dining and drinking experience, any day of the week!

The walls are decorated with striking original Icelandic artwork that fuses perfectly with the elegant yet earthy feel of this impressive, new dining spot. The fabulously different and funky décor and hip relaxing ambiance promise a fun night out!

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Slippbarinn Opening hours: Sundays to Thursdays: 11:30 am – midnight / Fridays and Saturdays: 11:30 am – 1:00 am / Happy hour: every day from 3-6 pm.

Mýrargata 2 101 Reykjavik Tel: +354 560 8080 Email: slippbarinn@icehotels.is www.slippbarinn.is

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lippbarinn became an instant hit, with its emp­hasis on fresh ingredients, creativity and high-quality hand-crafted cocktails. Many fine bars have since followed in Slippbarinn’s footsteps, making the Reykjavík scene exciting to any cocktail connoisseur. But no one else quite lives up to the endless innovation, ambition and sheer style of the inimitable Slippbarinn.

Bright flavors and bold presentation In the kitchen as in the bar, Slippbarinn is guided by its philosophy of flux and creativity. Starting with the solid foundation of a classic dish, the chefs

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Slippbarinn

The birthplace of Icelandic cocktail culture It has already been five years since Slippbarinn opened its doors at the trendy and ­delightful Iceland­air Hotel Reykjavík Marina, but it is still as popular as ever. As it turns out, Reykjavík in 2012 was ripe for a cocktail revolution.

bring their own twist, sometimes bold, sometimes subtle, but always deeply satisfying. An everevolv­ing menu consists of dishes that combine fresh and hearty, wholesome and flavorful, with a dash of adventure. Some classics have earned a per­manent place, however. Be sure not to miss the legendary charcuterie (created to share), the expertly prepared calamari, or what might be the best fish soup in the entire city!

Your perfect harbor hangout Almost every town in Iceland is a fishing village at heart. At Slippbarinn, you get right in touch with

Reykjavík’s roots. Located on the old harbor, in view of a still-operational dock, it’s where you can watch fishing vessels being repaired. Slippbarinn is the perfect place to while away an afternoon over a whiskey sour and the catch of the day. When it is time for a caffeine fix, head over to Slippbarinn’s baby brother, the adjoined gourmet café Kaffi­ slippur. The pastries will melt in your mouth and you will dream of them ever after.

Slippbarinn is the perfect place to while away an afternoon over a whiskey sour and the catch of the day.

r e t p o c i l e H urs To WANT TO FLY OVER MOUNTAINTOPS, ACTIVE VOLCANOES AND ANCIENT GLACIERS?

TOUR PRICES FROM 27.900 ISK PER PERSON

TEL: +354 562 2500 INFO@HELICOPTER.IS

NAUTHÓLSVEGI 58D 101 REYKAVÍK

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The Drunk Rabbit Irish Pub Opening hours: Sunday – Thursday 12 pm-1 am Friday – Saturday 12 pm-4 am Happy hour: every day from 12-19 pm.

Austurstræti 3 101 Reykjavík Tel: +354 553 1041 E-mail: info@drunkrabbit.is www.facebook.com/drunkrabbit.is www.drunkrabbit.is

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f you happen to be in Reykjavik on St. Patrick’s Day, which is also The Drunk Rabbit’s anniversary, be sure to join the celebration.

Happy hour The happy hour, or should we say happy hours, at The Drunk Rabbit are unique with great offers on beers, wines, spirits and ciders from 12-19 every day.

Besides the Guinness, eight different local beers and ales are available on tap and more in bottles.

The bar is full and the whiskey selection is ex­cel­ lent. Irish whiskeys, Scotch whiskeys, bour­­bons and even an Icelandic single malt called Flóki.

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The Drunk Rabbit

Let’s make it Irish The Drunk Rabbit Irish Pub is an authentic Irish watering hole in the heart of downtown Reykjavik. Since its opening on St. Patrick’s Day 2016 it has become a favorite venue for people from all over the world as well as locals. The Drunk Rabbit serves the best Guinness on tap, has perfect Irish coffee and great craic.

Food The Drunk Rabbit is not a restaurant but as in every good Irish pub, there is a small food menu for the hungry ones. The fish & chips are probably the best you’ll find in Iceland.

Entertainment There is always great craic at The Drunk Rabbit where you can watch live sports, football, rugby or whatever you’d like. Just ask the staff if they can show your game and they will try their best to find it.

Live music is a big part of the craic here and it’s on seven days a week from 10 pm ‘til closing with

different musicians from all around the world every night. Tuesday nights are session nights starting about 8:30 pm.

The happy hour, or should we say happy hours, at The Drunk Rabbit are unique with great offers on beers, wines, spirits and ciders from 12-19 every day. Besides the Guinness, eight different local beers and ales are available on tap and more in bottles.

Kaldi Bar Opening hours: Sunday-Thursday: 12:00 pm - 01:00 am Friday & Saturday: 12:00 pm 03:00 am Happy our every day from 4-7 pm

A breath of fresh air

Cool as Kaldi

Laugavegur 20b 101 Reykjavik Tel: +354 581 2200 www.kaldibar.com

Kaldi Bar is one of Iceland’s most unique bars.

An oasis in central Reykjavík.

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t might not be spacious but it makes up for it with great relaxing atmos­­­ phere in a rustic setting. Besides the congenial atmosphere, there’s a great out­­side seating area in a cozy back­­yard.

Known for its wide collection of local micro brews both on draft and in bottl­es, Kaldi Bar is very popular among locals who check in at happy hour to get their fill of the unfiltered Kaldi brew. Drop by and get to know everybody, they might even give you some good tips on how to become a local.

Kaldi Bar is one of Iceland’s most unique bars. An oasis in central Reykjavík. It might not be spacious but it makes up for it with great relaxing atmos­­­phere in a rustic setting.

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Bastard Beer & Food Open: 11:30 - 01:00 (Sun-Thurs) and 11:30 – 04:00 (Fri – Sat)

A whole new brew Vegamótastígur 4 Reykjavík +354 558 0800 www.bastard.is

Newly opened in summer 2018, Bastard is an aspiring microbrewery in the heart of Reykjavik. H ­ aving already launched two Bastard beers, brewed by Bastard friends—a hearty New England IPA and a gentler amber ale—it is now adding the finishing touches to the gorgeous shiny tanks on show ­upstairs that will enable it to brew in-house. Propping up the bar are 11 other draft beers, with guest appearances from a range of Icelandic breweries.

Small, yet perfectly formed As well as beer, Bastard Brew & Food does a great line of adventurous gins, craft cocktails, wine and spirits and, of course, food. The menu may be small, but it’s tasty and tempting, with hugely popular Bastard burgers. The crispy grilled flatbreads (think nachos, come pizza) are dripping with garlic butter and adorned with tasty toppings; try a duck confit with pickled chili, or some Parma ham with Portobello mushrooms and Parmesan. Or maybe a soft tortilla with beef, pulled pork or something else that takes your fancy. And, if you get there before 3 pm, you can even get an egg and bacon brunch, perfect with beer!

Cheers Attracting a diverse and lively crowd, Bastard Beer & Food is open every day, and happy hour is from

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4-7 pm. The staff is friendly and the building itself is a fitting tribute to beer and beverages, with its stylish décor, leather stools, bookshelves and banquettes. There’s even a sun terrace (should you be so lucky). Rock up at the weekend for some great music, that adds soul, funk, and disco from decades past to the mix.

Having already launched two Bastard beers, brewed by Bastard friends—a hearty New England IPA and a gentler amber ale—it is now adding the finishing touches to the gorgeous shiny tanks on show ­upstairs that will enable it to brew in-house.

American Bar Open: Mondays to Thursday from 11:00 am - 1:00 am - Fri - Sat: 11:00 am 4:30 am - Sun: 11:00 am - 1:00 am

Austurstræti 8-10 101 Reykjavik Tel: +354 571 9999 Mobile: +354 697 9003 Find us on Facebook/AmericanBarIceland

American Bar American Bar captures the American spirit; land of the free, home of the brave with a unique selection of beer and a simple yet delicious menu. American Bar is a must-visit when in Reykjavik.

Beer selection second to none With more than 50 different kinds of beer you are sure to find the beer that suits your taste. There’s beer made in the Hawaiian Islands as well as beer made from the famous Icelandic water.

Location and experience Located at the heart of Reykjavik, American Bar is easy to find. Once inside you’ll feel at home right away, especially if you’re an American; with decorations like football helmets (find your favorite team) and the American flag.

Live music, live sport and the Wheel of Fortune Live music every night brings the right atmosphere and if you want to shake it up a bit you can hit the

dance floor on weekends and dance into the crazy Reykjavik night. If you are feeling lucky you can always spin the Wheel of Fortune.

Must see that game in the English PL or the Champions League? You will be well taken care of at the American Bar. HD-screens and TVs in every corner make sure that you won’t miss one second of your favorite sport.

Inside and out—all day long With more than 100 seats inside and a great outdoor area on the sunny side (for those wonderful sunny Icelandic summer days) you will always find a seat at a good table. The outside area is truly remarkable, overlooking Dómkirkjan Cathedral and Alþingi (Parliament House). When you think of central Reykjavik this is it! The menu

is simple, yet delicious. The hamburgers, ribs and chicken wings are well-known to the locals for being unique and tasty.

Lunch or dinner, live music or dancing, beer or cocktails; the American Bar has it all and is truly worth the visit!

Life is short—Drink early!

Located at the heart of Reykjavik, Ameri­can Bar is easy to find. Once inside you’ll feel at home right away, especi­ally if you’re an American; with deco­­rations like football helmets (find your favorite team) and the American flag.

The English Pub Opening hours: Sun-Thurs: 12:00 - 01:00 Fri-Sat: 12-04:30 Open at 11 am from May 1st to September 1st.

Austurstræti 12 101 Reykjavik Tel: +354 578 0400 Mobile: +354 697 9003 www.enskibarinn.is. www.enskibarinn.is.

The English Pub – Save water, drink beer For years, Iceland has enjoyed a diverse selection of restaurants and often sophisticated bars.

However, one tiny grumble occasionally surfaced from the country’s ­Anglophiles – simply that there was no proper “pub”.

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nd so the English Pub was born. From mod­­­­est beginnings it has built a hearty repu­­tation, seeking out, with the advice and guidance of its dedicated customers, the finest ale availa­­ble to mankind. Today it offers its enthusiastic clientele the chance to try a great variety of beers, foreign brands, as well as many local beers that are a must try.

Whisky galore Not content to rest on its laurels, the English Pub has ventured north of its virtual border and also offers the finest selection of whiskies anywhere in the country. Acclaimed assortment of malts includes many of Scotland’s finest, ensuring numerous Icelanders and worldly travelers make

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the pilgrimage to the pub’s humble door. Located at the very heart of downtown Reykjavik, the walls of the English Pub are adorned with hundreds of photographs – like an album of the city’s history just waiting to be explored over a quiet beer.

A sporting chance Live sporting coverage is amply catered for, with a choice of six big screens and two TV screens. Inside the pub there is room for up to 150 people, and an outdoor terrace can accommodate plenty more on those balmy Icelandic evenings! Whether it is football (Premier and Champions League), rugby or golf, there are always special offers when live events are being broadcast. Live music every night adds

to the atmosphere. In addition to the happy hour from 4-7pm every day, and for the ones feeling lucky, there is the Wheel of Fortune. Regulars like nothing more than to spin the wheel and chance a “Sorry” or preferably, win what used to be called a Yard of Ale. These days, it’s inevitably known as a meter of beer, but the winners don’t seem to mind!

Located at the very heart of downtown Reykjavik, the walls of the English Pub are adorned with hundreds of photographs – like an album of the city’s history just waiting to be explored over a quiet beer.

The Lebowski Bar Opening hours: 11:00 – 01:00 Sun-Thurs and 11:00 – 04:00 Fri/Sat Twitter: @LebowskiBar Instagram: #LebowskiBa

Laugavegur 20a 101 Reykjavik Tel: +354 552 2300 email: info@lebowskibar.is www.lebowskibar.is

Lebowski Bar The Reykjavik venue that rocks!

Walking into this American retro bar, is stepping back in time. And right away you know it’s the right bar for a few White Russians and a real good time. With carefully chosen music from the 50s to the 80s, the atmosphere in Lebowski Bar comes together giving the good vibration that the Dude would definitely abide by! Just walk in to see what condition your condition is in...

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ll kinds of people come here,” the staff proudly explains. “Icelanders, tourists, every­­­body. With food and music that suits everyone, our customers range from age 20 to 85.”

On those rare, but beautiful “warm” days in Iceland, Lebowski is the place to be: the huge outdoor terrace opens whenever the temperature rises above “a steamy 5°C.” But even with all this going for it, what Lebowski Bar prides itself most on is its delicious, diner-style menu with one-of-a-kind burgers, thick and creamy milkshakes, and oh yeah— White Russians. White Russians. Lebowski Bar has over 23 different variations of White Russians, the most popular one being the Cocaucasian, a regular White Russian topped with Cocoa Puffs. Some call it the brunch of champions, others Cocoa Puffs Russian … Either way, it’s delicious!

Where’s the Burger, Lebowski?

Made with 150 grams of beef—that’s more than a quarter pound, for the metrically-challenged— Lebowski Bar’s classic burgers always hit the spot and boast a tempting array of toppings and sauces, from chili-marinated bacon to Japanese mayo.

With its perfect balance of sweet and savory, the Honey Boo, a honey-glazed bacon and BBQ-sauce burger, has been called “the best bacon burger in town” (and there are a lot of them to choose from).

The Other Lebowski, a steak burger made from extra juicy beef tenderloin, is a staff favorite.

Wanna go big? Check out the “Burger of the Month” specialty offerings. Past specialty burgers have included the Once Upon a Time in the West, made with steak tenderloin marinated in La Trappe Quadrupel Ale and served with Jack Daniels BBQ Sauce and caramelized onions, among other tasty toppings. Another limited-time option was the Sgt. Pepper’s Lonely Hearts Club Band, a piquant patty served—appropriately enough—with pepper cheese and chili sauce.

Burgers are clearly the house specialty here. For non-beefy options, Lebowski Bar has something for you, too. Try the Bunny Lebowski Chicken Burger, which was declared “gorgeous” by one happy visitor on Trip Advisor, or The Stranger Veggie Burger.

And if you’re looking for something lighter, there are plenty of bar snacks—from cheese-stuffed jalapeños to onion rings—to enjoy with your beer.

You’re not wrong, Walter Lebowski Bar opens 11 am for lunch and there is a DJ every night from 9 pm. All big sports events are shown on all 5 Full HD screens.

“This Reykjavík place is mind-bending,” Trip Ad­­visor user Graham enthused after a recent visit. “The burgers are massive, the chips chunky and the beers and White Russians flow. There’s a happy hour to bring down Iceland’s high prices, and regular bands playing to bring the film’s rockin’ ethos to life.”

Sounds good to us. But you know, that’s just, like, his opinion, man.

Wanna go big? Check out the “Burger of the Month” specialty offerings. Past specialty burgers have included the Once Upon a Time in the West, made with steak tenderloin marinated in La Trappe Quadrupel Ale and served with Jack Daniels BBQ Sauce and caramelized onions, among other tasty toppings.

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Den Danske Kro Opening hours: Sun-Thurs 12:00 – 01:00 and Fri-Sat 12:00 – 05:00

Den Danske Kro Ingólfsstræti 3 101 Reykjavík Tel: +354 552 0070 www.dendanske.is

When in Iceland, go Danish!

A vibrant place on the Reykjavík social scene is Den Danske Kro or “The Danish Pub,” a popular downtown venue with locals with happy hour and with live music every night.

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en Danske Kro serves a variety of beers, in addition to familiar names such as Tuborg and Carlsberg, the Danish Pub serves a selection of seasonal beers from both Denmark and Iceland.

During the Christmas months, Den Danske Kro is the home of the Tuborg Christmas Beer or “Julebryg,” a popular drink in Iceland during the darkest months.

check out the interior of the pub and you’ll discover an off-the-wall design in its most literal sense!

Den Danske Kro is a great place to hang out with friends, play darts, watch sports, enjoy the occasional sun and watch the world go by on the outside terrace.

And to get into the spirit of things, we recommend you try a glass of the customary Gammel Dansk bitters, a traditional Danish schnapps.

Cozy Copenhagen style

The place to party

The Danes have a word to describe a cozy, friendly atmosphere—“hyggelig” and that’s something the owners of the Danish Pub have worked hard to create in this home away from home within a pub. Just

Den Danske Kro, as said before, is a popular venue among locals, and as soon as happy hour kicks off, the place starts filling up with people from the neighborhood and others who want to finish the

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workday with a cold beer. Every night there’s live music where you can request your all-time favorite.

During the weekend Den Danske Kro is open late.

The bartenders will be happy to see you and you are welcome to dance and sing with the guests until the morning.

Den Danske Kro serves a variety of beers, in addition to familiar names such as Tuborg and Carlsberg, the Danish Pub serves a selection of seasonal beers from both Denmark and Iceland.

Kopar Restaurant Opening hours: Mondays to Thursday from 11:30-22:30 Fridays from 11:30-23:30 Saturdays from 12:00-23:30 Sundays from 18:00-22:30

Kopar Restaurant by the old harbor Kopar Restaurant is situated by Reykjavik‘s romantic harbor, in one of the old green fisherman‘s huts.

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he fishing industry still thrives in Reykja­­­vik, so the old harbor is full of life. In the morning, fishermen go out to sea and return later with their catch of the day. As you stand on the pier you can feel the history of Reykjavik and watch the harbor life: fishing boats, fishermen, the catch, and young kids with their rods trying their luck off the pier. Meanwhile passersby are walking about and enjoying life. This fresh and energetic atmosphere of the old harbor is all part of the experience when you dine at Kopar. Kopar is a seafood restaurant

featuring locally caught seafood and crustaceans.

They are especially proud of their crab soup, made with Icelandic rock crab from Hvalfjordur. Kopar offers a variety of Icelandic produce, including wild game, although the main emphasis is seafood, the fruit of the ocean.

Kopar‘s head chef, Ylfa, is a member of the gold medal winning national culinary team. She pre­­­ pares the seafood in a unique and delicate manner, in­­tent on giving you an unforgetable experience.

Geirsgata 3 101 Reykjavik Tel: +354 567 2700 www.koparrestaurant.is info@koparrestaurant.is

Delight yourself with great service and atmosphere, delicious food and the best view in town. When visit­ ing Reykjavik, enjoying a night out at Kopar is a must.

Kopar‘s head chef, Ylfa, is a member of the gold medal winning national culinary team. She prepares the seafood in a unique and delicate manner, intent on giving you an unforgetable experience.

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Sæta svínið – Gastropub Opening hours: Every day from 11:30 am to 11:30 pm

Sæta svínið – Gastropub Hafnarstræti 1-3 101 Reykjavik Tel 555-2900 www.saetasvinid.is www.facebook.com/saetasvinid saetasvinid@saetasvinid.is

Local food done right One of the newest additions to the Reykjavík food scene is the newly opened gastropub Sæta svínið (e. Sweet pig).

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astropubs are all about bringing upscale food to casual dining and Sæta svínið has proven that the format is a popular one with both locals and visitors. Sæta svínið’s culinary focus is on tasty and fun food made with fresh and local Icelandic ingredients.

The “Icelandic journey” is ideal if you want to try various Icelandic produce, both the adventurous; from smoked puffin to horse carpaccio and the staples; market fresh ling, traditional “flatkaka” with cured arctic char, free-range Icelandic lamb and “skyr.”

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Other must-try options are the Icelandic lamb dishes, lamb sandwich lamb shoulder and lamb shank. And for a great sweet ending the mini version of the Icelandic pastry “kleinur” is perfect for dessert.

Local beer Sæta svínið offers a unique selection of Icelandic beer—20 bottled and 10 on draft. You can also try one of the Icelandic beer tours, where you can taste four sample-size varieties of Icelandic beer. Or you can stop by the happiest happy hour in town every day from 3-6 pm where all drinks are half price and

small plates are on special happy hour price.

Sæta svínið is a perfect place to drop by for lunch, late lunch, dinner or drinks in a casual and fun atmosphere. With their eclectic décor full of fun pig references, the atmosphere is both fun and friendly.

"Gastropubs are all about bringing upscale food to casual dining and Sæta svínið has proven that the format is a popular one with both locals and visitors."

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Base Hotel Hostel at Ásbrú

Valhallarbraut 756-757, 235 Reykjanesbær, Iceland Tel: +354 519 1300

The Base at Ásbrú

www.basehotel.is e-mail: basehotel@basehotel.is

The recently opened Base HotelHostel at Ásbrú is a budget accommodation conveniently located near Keflavik Airport on the Reykjanes Peninsula.

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he Base by Keflavik Airport is at a former NATO base used by the US Army until 2006. The hotel is actually located in two buildings where US Army families once resided and it embraces the 55-year history of the army’s presence in Iceland in its overall theme, with quirky little touches and photographs.

“We looked to the area’s history and decided to create a positive concept revolving around that history. A big part of the design process was creating a warm, comfortable and fun space that could hold all this modern art that’s now on display.

To add to the challenge, everything we did had to be low-cost and to keep costs down we kept a lot of the furniture that was left in the house. A good example of that are the rocking chairs found in most rooms, which have been sat in by many soldiers these past decades,” said hotel designer Leifur Welding.

PERFECT FOR STOPOVERS The Base is perfect for short stopovers in Iceland and as a base for exploring the Reykjanes Peninsula and Southwest Iceland. The affordable rooms cater to all types of travelers. “Base Hotel has something for everyone, the lone traveler just looking for a place to rest, the couple for a fun place to be, or the family needing more space.

With their community kitchens, laundry room, TV lounges, library, game room, 24-hour reception

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and bar and shuttle to the airport we try to meet everyone’s needs without abandoning our policy of being the most affordable accommodation in the area. The Base is not just a place to stay, it’s a place to live, even if it’s just for a few days,” says Base Hotel manager Richard Eckard.

At The Base you’ll find hostel-style dorm rooms for the extremely cost conscious, suites for the private but thrifty and anything in between for everyone else who just like to stay within their budget but still get a good night’s rest.

YOUR BASE IN ICELAND The Base seeks to celebrate the history of “the Base” while offering cheap accommodation and giving guests who travel to Iceland the perfect base to explore the Reykjanes Peninsula. The Base is conveniently located close to Keflavik Airport providing ease on your arrival and departure days and saving you precious time during a brief WOW Stopover.

The Reykjanes Peninsula is a geologically young area displaying Iceland’s magnificent nature. From the Northern Lights to helicopter flights—whale watching to geothermal springs, the Reykjanes Peninsula’s got it all.

Get comfortable and check out www.basehotel.is for more information and booking.

Where the locals go Two local secrets on the Reykjavik restaurant scene that will leave you wanting more.

Grái kötturinn

The Gray Cat prides itself on its home­ made bread, tuna salad, hummus and pancakes. It is fre­quented by local artists and intelle­ctuals.

The right place to energize for a busy day

T

he Gray Cat” is a cozy, dimly lit, book-lined café in an old townhouse, and a must visit when in Reykjavik. It opens early (perfect for those who have arrived on the red-eye) and focuses on American style breakfast, lunch and brunch. Although the Cat is famous for their big breakfast dish known as “The Truck,” you will find more on the menu, such as sandwiches, bagels, hummus, eggs & bacon and last but not least; American pancakes. The Gray Cat prides itself on its homemade bread, tuna salad, hummus and pancakes. It is frequented by local artists and intellectuals. So do like the locals; sit down, read a book or plan your day while you eat eggs, pancakes or bagels and drink good coffee (Icelanders take the latter very seriously).

Grái kötturinn I Hverfisgata 16a I 101 Reykjavik I Tel: +354 551 1544 I facebook.com/graikotturinn/ I Mon-Fri; 7:30AM-2:30PM I Sat-Sun 8:00AM-2:30PM

Messinn at Grandi

The restaurant is located in an old fishing area close to the city center and offers a relaxed atmosphere and a great view, overlooking the Reykjavík Harbor.

If you want the best fish in Reykjavík, look no further

M

essinn by the Reykjavík Harbor is a new fish buffet restaurant that offers pan fried fish served in cast iron skillets, emphasizing fresh quality material in every way. The restaurant is located in an old fishing area close to the city center and offers a relaxed atmosphere and a great view, overlooking the Reykjavík Harbor. Another Messinn restaurant, located in the city center offers similar dishes and is rated as one of the top five restaurants in Reykjavík on TripAdvisor. The most popular courses are the fried Arctic char with honey and almonds, the Atlantic wolffish in a creamy mushroom sauce and the plaice fried with tomatoes, capers, lemon and butter.

Messinn I Grandagarður 8 and Lækjargata 6b I Tel: +354 562 1515 I messinn.com

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WOW Power to the people

ICELAND FROM ABOVE The culture and the landscape of Iceland have been shaped by isolation and the extreme forces of nature. Commonly referred to as “The Land of Fire and Ice,” Iceland is a country of sharp and striking contrasts.

by Nejra Mesetovic Photos: Elías Arnar and courtesy of Atlantsflug

Flying over Iceland elevated my experience of the island from gorgeous to breathtaking!

TAKE FLIGHT Atlantsflug is one of the few companies that can offer you this experience. Operating since 2004 from their private airstrip near Skaftafell National Park, Atlantflug will soon be offering flightseeing tours all year-round. Flights varied from 20 minutes to 75 minutes, and customized longer trips all over the island are also an option. Also provided are specialized personal photography flights, both for professional and amateur photographers with windows opened for picture-taking.

Their location in Skaftafell allows easy access to the untouched highlands and glaciers and excellent viewing opportunities.

After the pilot gave us the safety instructions, we left from Skaftafell Airport and flew over the black sands of Ingólfshöfði where the first settler of Iceland arrived. From there we surveyed Skaftafell National Park and Svartifoss Waterfall which is a part of Vatnajökull National Park. Vatnajökull National Park is home of Vatnajökull, the largest glacier in Europe (outside of the Arctic region), at which we gazed and gaped. Then we went over the area of Lakagígar a crater chain forged in 1783 by one of the most massive volcanic eruptions in recorded history. Next, it was Langisjór, a remote lake in Iceland’s Highlands, 670 m above sea level. And then there was the ever-popular Landmannalaugar, famous for its colorful rhyolite mountains and accommodating hot springs. On the way back, we flew over Mýrdalsjökull Glacier and then back to Skaftafell.

Flights varied from 20 minutes to 75 minutes, and customized longer trips all over the island are also an option. Also provided are specialized personal photography flights, both for professional and amateur photographers with windows opened for picture-taking.

ICELAND FROM A DIFFERENT PERSPECTIVE “Elated“ is a perfect way to describe how I felt flying over Iceland’s glaciers, waterfalls, lakes, craters and volcanos.

And “free“—not only from the earth we traverse day after day but free from the cares and concerns of a life that affords few such opportunities to see another perspective and a chance to touch the incredible and make it one‘s own.

We would recommend this tour to everyone that visits the Vatnajökull Region. It‘s poetry in motion.

For more information and bookings, go to visitvatnajokull.is.

You can also follow the Vatnajokull Region on social media: www.facebook.com/visitvatnajokull.is www.instagram.com/visitvatnajokull https://twitter.com/vatnajokull_reg

Issue five 67

Ísafjörður

Stykkishólmur

Borgarnes Akranes Geysir

Gullfoss

Hveragerði Reykjavík Reykjanesbær Kópavogur 2 stores

Garðabær Hafnarfjörður Mosfellsbær

Selfoss

Seljalandsfo

20 stores

S

HOURS

OPENING

Vestmannaeyjar

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WOW Power to the people

Monday-Thursday Friday Saturday Sunday

11:00 - 18:30 10:00 - 19:30 10:00 - 18:00 12:00 - 18:00

Dettifoss Akureyri 2 stores

FIND YOUR

Egilsstaรฐir

STORE

Jรถkulsรกrlรณn

oss

Skรณgafoss Reynisfjara

32

Discount Stores around Iceland

Issue five 69

WOW Designs

HILDUR YEOMAN’S BRILLIANT CREATIVITY

Award-winning fashion designer Hildur Yeoman is best known for her ultra-feminine statement pieces, each a testament to her fertile imagination, brilliant creativity and sublime talent for illustration.

by Gerður Harðardóttir Photos: Íris Dögg, courtesy of Hildur Yeoman

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WOW Power to the people

B

ehind each collection lies elaborate and often time-consuming research which eventually turns into a new and exciting story of intriguing universes. Tailored in are intricate and finely detailed patt­­­­erns, beautiful fabrics and traditional Ice­­­landic handcraft techniques such as crochet or em­­broidery that come together in exquisitely made clothes characterized by a distinctive and personal aesthetic.

TALES OF STRONG WOMEN Hildur’s first ready-to-wear collection launched in 2005 and was inspired by her great-grandmother Yulia Yeoman, a New Jersey housewife who in the 1940’s up and left her family to join a motorcycle gang tearing through the US. Following the “Yulia” collection, subsequent Yeoman collections have sought inspiration from for example the magical powers of the Icelandic flora, witchcraft and the strong and often prominent Icelandic women who love and wear Hildur’s creations.

Through her creative career as one of Iceland’s leading fashion designers, Hildur has collaborated with The Icelandic Dance Company, outdoor clothing company 66°North and singer/songwriter Björk, who wore a Yeoman dress powered by electricity and made of optical fibers for her performance at the Royal Albert Hall in London in 2016. Hildur’s accessories also featured in Taylor Swift’s music video for her infamous Look What You Made Me Do single, released last year.

Through her creative career as one of Ice­­­ land’s leading fashion designers, Hildur has collaborated with The Icelandic Dance Company, outdoor clothing company 66°North and singer/ songwriter Björk.

For more information, check out her Instagram feed @hilduryeoman and hilduryeoman.com or visit the Yeoman flagship store at Skólavörðustígur 22B.

BUY DIRECTLY FROM THE PEOPLE WHO MAKE THEM HANDKNITTED IN ICELAND

Skólavörðustígur 19 & Borgartún 31

t: +354 552 1890

handknitted.is

Issue five 71

WOW entrepreneurs

Omnom sets the bar higher Despite growing neither cocoa beans or sugar Icelanders are mad for chocolate and make quite a lot of it. One of the youngest producers in Iceland is Omnom, a small batch, artisan chocolate maker based in Reykjavik, whose delicious chocolate and great design have taken sweettoothed Icelanders and visitors by a storm.

F

ounded by chef Kjartan Gíslason and his childhood friend Óskar Þórðarson, the Omnom adventure began with sheer curiosity on Kjartan’s behalf; He wanted to know how chocolate was made. “I talked it over with Óskar and, both being food lovers, we started to really think about this. We tried finding tools and equipment for pro­­ ducing chocolate and after several attempts fin­­­ally had something in our hands that you could call choco­­late,” says Kjartan. Then they got designer André to design the look and feel of the Omnom label and packaging. “When we had that we saw that we were on to something special,” Kjartan adds.

“How we source and buy our raw materials really matters, and not just to us. We have done extensive research into the producers of our cacao and sugar. We buy from responsible farmers and distributors and love supporting social change through buying power,” says Kjartan. You can read about all of Omnom’s raw materials and how they’re sourced on Omnom’s webpage, www.omnomchocolate.com.

SWEET DREAMS Icelanders have a serious sweet tooth and we already had a few big chocolate and candy manufacturers on the island fulfilling our penchant for sweets. How did it feel to produce for a market that seemed so well catered for already?

“To tell you the truth, we never thought about the size of the market when we were starting out. We simply wanted to make high-quality chocolate with the best available raw materials. On the other hand, we did have dreams and aspirations about our chocolate someday being sold in specialty gourmet stores like Dean and Deluca in New York and I’m proud to say that this dream has become a reality. We have a distributor in the US and Canada and Omnom Chocolate can now be found all over the world.”

AWARD-WINNING GOODNESS

“When we start­ ed this journey we tried beans from all over, from Papua, New Guinea to Tanzania.

Today we use beans from Tanzania, Nicaragua and Mada­­gasc­ar."

The reception of Omnom chocolate has exceeded Kjartan’s most optimistic expectations. Since selling the very first chocolate bar, Omnom has produced 11 different types of chocolate as well as their crunchy, chocolate-covered malt balls. “Our chocolate bars have won over 50 awards at the European Bean-ToBar Competition and the International Chocolate Awards. Our latest chocolate bar, Black n’ Burnt Barley won the gold medal at the European Bean-To-Bar this August. This is a tremendous achievement and encourages us to keep on making high-quality chocolate,” says Kjartan.

In addition to Omnom’s core production, they also make seasonal bars and the next one will be out in November. To date, their most popular chocolate in Iceland is Liqorice + Sea Salt, but if you are not a liqorice lover try the Caramel + Milk bar.

You can buy them onboard any WOW air flight. Indulge!

FROM BEAN TO BAR From the start, Kjartan and Óskar knew they wanted to make their chocolate from scratch, or from bean-to-bar as the industry calls it. Omnom is actually the only bean-to-bar chocolate producer in Iceland. “When we start­ed this journey we tried beans from all over, from Papua, New Guinea to Tanzania. Today we use beans from Tanzania, Nicaragua and Mada­­ gasc­ar. The Madagascar beans are actually the reason we fell in love with chocolate. They are fruit-forward and packed with the right punch of acidity. The flavor is so exciting that we just had to try adding Icelandic milk to it and to this day our Milk of Madagascar bar is our most awarded chocolate.”

After starting small, Omnom has grown and so has the production, introducing new technology.

“We were using old equipment and technology to make our chocolate and have switched to a more modern one but our focus is always on the key ingredients being of the highest quality,” Kjartan explains.

COCOA-CONSCIOUS From experimental roasting and grinding beans at Kjartan’s house to finding an abandoned gas station in Seltjarnarnes where they made their first finished product, Omnom has now grown to employ over 20 people, having their own factory store and offering a daily factory tour. But their core values have never faltered and both Kjartan and Óskar are proud by the standards they have set and kept through­out the build-up of their company.

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Go to www.omnomchocolate.com for more info and delicious chocolate and follow Omnom on Facebook and Twitter so you won’t miss out on their latest bars.

www.n1.is/en

facebook.com/enneinn

instagram.com/enneinn

Tank up at N1 on your way around Iceland

95 locations around Iceland

Complimentary

Wi-Fi

at selected N1 service stations

COFFEE & Croissant

LAMB soup Traditional Icelandic meal

Treat yourself

Buy prepaid fuel cards and fill up on the go!

With 95 locations around Iceland, N1 is always nearby. Find your nearest location and plan your trip at www.n1.is/en.

burger & fries Classic meal

Keep moving Issue five 73

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av Mini tr

Mini photographer He loves directing shots!

flyer equent Minor fr ves to travel. lo id k This

Destination everywhere!

Cloudy with a chance of travel.

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Don’t leave home without these budget-friendly essentials when traveling with little ones

Yay, it’s time to travel and the kids are ready to go. Say hello to distant lands, new cultures and travel pains.

Whether you’re a parent or fellow traveler, we’ve all witnessed over-exhausted parents and children suffer through torrential meltdowns.

And who can blame them? Travel ain’t easy! However, packing the perfect FUN BAG can preserve your sanity, spare your children from being scarred for life, and is easy on the wallet.

PACK SMART Every age can be distracted with the right programming. Success begins with smart packing. Avoid high airport fees and pay for luggage in advance. Keep in mind, picking up necessities once you’re gone can be expensive and possibly a real hassle to come by.

Most important, pack the essentials as efficiently and light as possible.

You will more than likely be responsible for carrying the fun bag, along with your bag, and the child

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WOW Power to the people

you’re traveling along with during your journey.

CARRY ON! Meds – Nip cold and allergy flares in the bud quickly and keep your travel on target for stress-free-fun.

Don’t leave home without vapor rub, acetaminophen, Ibuprofen, an expectorant, and kids Benadryl.

(Always consult your pediatrician prior to travel and discuss possible health hazards, warnings, and best practices).

On the go hygiene – When traveling you pass through so many public spaces that are basically germ hubs.

Wipes and hand sanitizer help to avoid the cold-causing germs.

Gum & tissue – Our little one’s ears are fragile and their noses run for no reason at all. Make sure you have plenty of G&T at your disposal.

CALLING ALL TOTS Snacks – Probably the most important peacekeeping tool when dealing with our little bosses.

Keeping them full is the first step.

Small portion finger-foods are a treasure for long hauls.

Pop-up stroller – Invest in an easyto-fold lightweight stroller. Walks to the gate can be miles long and carrying sleeping children can feel like hauling bricks.

KINDER FRIENDLY Give your children something to do besides drive you nuts. Learning games and arts/crafts are the keys to friendly skies.

Watch, compass, & maps – Provide your little explorer with the tools to chart your trip. My son gets so excited when the needle moves as the plane makes it course during ascension.

It’s also a great opportunity to get familiar with the geography.

Disposable camera – Yes, they still make them and develop film. It may sound ancient, but it’s a wonderful way to capture a child’s perspective and experience when they are in control of the camera. My mini-globetrotter loves being a photographer and reliving the trips with friends and family.

Play-Doh – Be creative and brush up on motor skills with a classic. Even parents can enjoy this activity. My son and I built a small city on our way to Reykjavik.

As your child grows, develops new interests, and becomes more travel savvy, the contents of the bag will change. Be wise, stay prepared and breath!

Follow on Instagram/Twitter @myghtyink

Refuel at Olís We welcome you to our service stations around Iceland where you can refuel and enjoy our services.

Great variety of tasty food and beverages and everything else you might need on the road.

Visit us at olis.is/travel

FRESH

COFFEE & PASTRY

Wide range of fresh GRAB & GO

FREE FUEL DISCOUNT CARD

FREE COFFEE WITH DISCOUNT CARD

Servicing travellers since 1927

FREE WI-FI

Issue five 75

me up

HOW HIGH WOULD YOU GO FOR MORE COMFORT? You can now fly in even more style to your destination. The WOW me up service makes it easy for our guests to bid on a seat upgrade before a flight.

T

o check if you are eligible for an upgrade and read the terms and conditions, go to wowair.us/wow-me-up and insert your booking number and last name. Bid on a BigSeat, XXL or XL seat, stating what you would be willing to pay for the upgrade. As soon as we’ve received your bid, you will get an email confirmation. At least 24 hours prior to your flight we will let you know whether your offer has been accepted. Easy-peasy right?

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WOW Power to the people

HERE’S WHAT YOU ARE BIDDING FOR

* BigSeat + meals and drinks The spacious BigSeat is our most comfortable and luxurious seat available. The seats are extra wide and offer lots of legroom with their 37-inch pitch. Only two seats per row mean more personal space and the WOW premium onboard service and catering is included if you win the bid. To secure a BigSeat for your trip, you can, of course, add it to your flight or book the WOW premium option all the way.

* Extra legroom seats These seats may be normal but the pitch is out of this world. Treat your legs to more space on board for an even more comfortable journey.

You can bid on seat pitch from XL-XXL (32-35 inches) but to secure such abundant legroom you must add it to your flight or book the WOW comfy option.

PRICE: FROM

2,300 ISK

ONE WAY

Pay less with Airport Express

Siggi is one of our experienced drivers

Quick and convenient airport transfer

Free Wifi on board

Tickets available directly on the bus or online

Comfortable, modern coaches

Book now at airportexpress.is or call us in +354 540 1313 (24/7)

Issue five 77

rm

s Declaration Fo

The U.S. Custom

Pour remplir ce formulaire, utilisez uniquement des majuscules. Si vous faites une erreur, notre personnel vous donnera un nouveau formulaire.

Chaque voyageur entrant ou chef de famille entrant doit fournir les informations suivantes (UNE SEULE déclaration par famille)

What is this and why do I need to fill this out?

Before you arrive in the U.S., you will need to fill out the US Customs Declaration Form. If you‘re traveling with your family only the head of the family needs to fill out the form. When you arrive on US soil you will hand this form to the U.S. Customs agent.

Français Le formulaire de déclaration en douane américaine

Qu’est-ce que c’est et pourquoi dois-je en remplir un?

Avant votre arrivée aux États-Unis, vous devrez remplir le formulaire de déclaration en douane américaine. Si vous voyagez avec votre famille, seul le chef de famille doit le remplir. Lorsque vous arrivez sur le sol américain, vous donnez ce formulaire aux autorités douanières américaines.

Si vous voyagez avec des fruits, nous vous recommandons de les jeter avant ou pendant votre vol vers les États-Unis mais que se passe-t-il si vous répondez « oui » à l’une de ces questions ? Ce n’est pas aussi terrible que ça en a l’air et dire la vérité vous évitera pas mal d’ennuis et une amende pouvant aller jusqu’à 300 $. Consultez la page 80 pour obtenir plus d’informations si vous répondez « OUI ».

browse and shop over 870 ICELANDIC BRANDS tax and duty free

1.

Nom, Prénom, Initiale du deuxième prénom.

2.

Date de naissance Jour/Mois/Année.

3.

Nombre de personnes voyageant avec vous.

4.

(a) Adresse Aux États-Unis (Destination ou nom de l‘hôtel) (b) Ville (c) Etat

5.

Lieu de délivrace du passeport (nom du pays)

6.

Numéro de passeport

7.

Pays de résidence

8.

Pays visités pendant ce voyage avant l‘arrivée aux aux Etats-Unis

9. Ligne aérienne / numéro du vol / Nom de vaisseau 10. Vous voyagez pour raison d‘affaires: OUI/NON 11.

Je suis / nous sommes porteurs de (a) fruits, plantes, produits alimentaires, insectes: OUI/NON (b) viandes, animaux, produits provenant d‘animaux ou d’animaux sauvages: OUI/NON (c) agents pouvant causer des maladies, cultures cellulaires, escargots: OUI/NON

(d) terre. J‘ai / Nous avons visité une exploitation agricole en dehors des Etats-Unis: OUI/NON

Deutsch

12. J‘ai / nous avons touché ou traité du bétail: OUI/NON 13.

Je suis / nous sommes porteurs d‘espèces ou d‘instruments monétaires d‘une valeur équivalente en monnaie des États Unis ou de tout autre pays (Voir définition d‘instruments monétaire au verso) á plus de 10 000$ US: OUI/NON

14.

Je suis / nous sommes en possession de marchandises commerciales (articles des tinés à la vente, échantillon de démonstration ou tout autre article autresque des effets personnels): OUI/NON

15.

Résidents - la valeur totale des biens, y compris la marchandise commerciale, que j’ai/nous avons achetés ou acquis à l’étranger (y compris les cadeaux pour une autre personne, mais pas les articles envoyés aux États-Unis) et que je/ nous rapportons aux États-Unisest de: montant en USD

Die US-amerikanische Zollerklärung

Was ist das und warum muss ich dieses Formular ausfüllen?

Vor der Ankunft in den USA müssen Sie das Formular der US-Zoller­ klärung ausfüllen. Wenn Sie mit Ihrer Familie unterwegs sind, braucht nur das Familien­ober­haupt dieses Formular ausfüllen. Wenn Sie US-Boden betreten, übergeben Sie dieses Formular dem US-Zoll.

Wenn Sie auf Ihrer Reise Obst mit sich führen, empfehlen wir Ihnen, dies vor oder während dem Flug in die USA zu entsorgen. Aber was geschieht, wenn Sie eine dieser Fragen mit Ja beantworten? Das ist nicht so schrecklich, wie Sie vielleicht denken, und Ehrlichkeit spart Ihnen eine Menge Ärger und eine mögliche Geldstrafe von bis zu 300$. Siehe Seite 80 für weitere Informationen zur Antwort JA. Bitte verwenden Sie beim Ausfüllen dieses Formulars nur Großbuchstaben.

Falls Sie einen Fehler machen wird Ihnen unsere Crew ein neues Formular geben.

Jeder ankommende Reisende bzw. jedes verantwortliche Familienmitglied muss die folgenden Angaben machen (es ist pro Familie nur EINE schriftliche Erklärung erforderlich)

Visiteurs - La valeur totale de tous les articles qui resteront aux États-Unis, y compris la marchandise commerciale est de : USD Signez sur la ligne pour déclarer que votre déclaration est véridique.

1.

Familienname, Vorname, Zweiter Vorname

2.

Geburtsdatum / Tag/Monat/Jahr

3.

Anzahl der mit Ihnen reisenden Familienmitglieder

4.

(a) Adresse/genaue Anschrift in den USA (Name des Hotels/Reiseziel) (b) Stadt (c) Staat

KEF airport is the busy place to be.

And because it’s the only shopping centre in Iceland that allows suitcases, you can skip waiting and start shopping.

Be fashionably early.

W W W. K E FA I R P O R T. I S

Issue five 79

rm

s Declaration Fo

The U.S. Custom 5.

Pass ausgestellt von (Land)

6.

Passnummer

7.

Ständiger Wohnsitz (Land)

8.

Auf dieser Reise besuchte Länder vor Ihrer Ankunft in den USA

(c) Krakheitserreger, Zellkulturen, Schnecken: JA/NEIN

(d) Erde, oder waren Sie auf einem Bauernhof/

einer Ranch/ Weide: JA/NEIN 12. Ich war (wir waren) in unmittelbarer Nähe von

Vieh/ Nutztieren (z.B. Anfassen oder Umgang

damit): JA/NEIN

9. Fluggesellschaft/Flugnummer oder Name des Schiffes 10. Der Hauptanlass dieser Reise ist geschäftlich: JA/NEIN 11. Ich (wir) führen folgende Waren ein:

(a) Früchte, Pflanzen, Lebensmittel, Insekten: JA/NEIN

(b) Fleisch, Tiere, Tier- oder Wildprodukte: JA/NEIN

13.

Ich führe (wir führen) mehr als $US 10,000 in Bargeld oder Zahlungsmitteln oder den Gegenwert in anderen ausländischen Währungen mit (Siehe die Definition von Gegenstände zum persönlichen Gebrauch gelten): JA/NEIN

14. Ich führe (wir führen) kommerzielle Waren mit.

(Verkaufsware, Muster zur Werbung von

Aufträgen oder Artikel, die nicht als Gegenstände zum persönlichen Gebrauch gelten): JA/NEIN

15.

US-Bürger - der Gesamtwert aller Waren, einschließlich Handelswaren die ich/wir erworben habe(n) oder im Ausland erworben habe(n) (einschließlich Geschenke für andere, nicht aber Sendungen in die USA) und in die USA einführe(n) lautet: Betrag in US-$ Besucher - der Gesamtwert aller Artikel einschließlich Handelswaren, die in den USA verbleiben ist: $

Auf der Linie unterschreiben, um zu erklären, dass Sie eine wahrheitsgemäße Erklärung abgeben.

What happens if you say “Yes”?

Sometimes we just want to avoid trouble and think that saying NO to everything will make things easier. That’s not the case and in fact, it can even cause more problems, delays and even fines. Be truthful on your Customs Declaration form and all will be good. Worst case scenario they’ll confiscate your banana but we promise you can buy a new one once you’re out of the airport.

Yes to 11 (a), (b) or (c) Your customs officer will refer you to an agricultural specialist who will ask you additional questions and might ask to inspect your food items. In many cases, you’ll be allowed to take your food with you. This often depends on where you got the food and how it’s been processed. Fruits, vegetables and raw meats are usually confiscated. You can research ahead of time at canibringit.com which is a U.S. Government run site.

Yes to 11 (d) and/or no. 12: An agricultural specialist will ask to inspect the soil or clothes, shoes or luggage that has been in contact with livestock or farm soil to determine if they contain any dangerous organisms. If they find potentially dangerous substances they will disinfect your items before allowing you to bring them in. For bringing soil into the US, you need a permit.

Yes to no. 13 or 14: If you are carrying currency worth over $10,000 you will simply be given a special form to fill out for the Treasury Department.

For items intended for sale, you should have already filed a “formal entry” before embarking on your journey. You could do so “on the spot” but these matters are subject to many rules and regulations and can be complicated.

Français

Deutsch

Le formulaire de déclaration en douane américaine

Die US-amerikanische Zollerklärung

Que se passe-t-il si vous répondez « OUI » ?

Was passiert, wenn Sie JA sagen?

Certaines personnes semblent penser que répondre « non » à toutes les réponses leur évitera des ennuis. Ce n’est pas le cas et en fait, cela peut même vous causer plus de problèmes, des retards et des amendes. Dites la vérité sur votre formulaire de déclaration en douane et tout ira bien. Dans le pire des cas, ils confisqueront votre banane mais promis, vous pourrez en acheter une nouvelle à votre arrivée à l’aéroport.

Einige Leute nehmen an, dass sie keinerlei Ärger bekommen, wenn sie überall NEIN sagen.

Das ist nicht so. Tatsächlich kann dies sogar mehr Probleme, Verzögerungen und sogar Geldbußen verursachen. Seien Sie bei Ihrer Zollerklärung ehrlich, und alles wird gut. Im schlimmsten Fall konfisziert man Ihre Banane, aber wir versprechen Ihnen, dass Sie sich eine neue kaufen können, sobald Sie den Flughafen verlassen haben.

Oui aux questions 11 (a), (b) ou (c) Votre agent douanier vous dirigera vers un spécialiste agricole qui vous posera des questions supplémentaires et qui pourra inspecter vos fruits. Dans de nombreux cas, vous sera autorisé à garder votre nourriture. Cela dépend souvent de la provenance la nourriture et de la façon dont elle a été transformée. Les fruits, les légumes et la viande crue sont généralement confisqués. Vous pouvez faire des recherches avant de partir sur le site canibright.com qui est un site du gouvernement américain.

Oui aux questions 11 (d) et/ou 12 : Un spécialiste agricole inspectera la terre ou les vêtements, les chaussures ou les bagages qui ont été en contact avec du bétail ou le sol d’une ferme pour déterminer la présence d’organismes dangereux. S’il trouve des substances potentiellement dangereuses, il désinfectera vos objets avant de vous laisser les garder. Pour importer de la terre aux États-Unis, il vous faut un permis.

Oui aux questions 13 ou 14 : Si vous transportez des devises d’une valeur supérieure à 10 000 $, vous devrez simplement remplir un formulaire spécial pour le ministère des finances.

Pour les objets destinés à être vendus, vous devriez déjà avoir rempli un « formulaire d’entrée officielle » avant de prendre votre vol. Vous pouvez faire cela sur place mais ce genre de chose est soumis à de nombreuses règles et règlementations et peut être compliqué.

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Ja zu 11 (a), (b) oder (c) Ihr Zollbeamter wird Sie an einen Spezialisten für landwirtschaftliche Produkte weiterverweisen, der Ihnen zusätzliche Fragen stellen wird und evtl. darum bittet, Ihre Lebensmittel inspizieren zu dürfen. In vielen Fällen wird man Ihnen erlauben, Ihr Essen mitzunehmen. Oft hängt es davon ab, wo Sie die Lebensmittel erworben haben und wie sie verarbeitet wurden. Obst, Gemüse und rohes Fleisch werden in der Regel beschlagnahmt.

Sie können vor Abflug auf der Website der US-Regierung canibringit.com nachlesen, was erlaubt ist.

Ja bei 11 (d) und/oder Nr. 12: Ein Spezialist für landwirtschaftliche Produkte wird Sie darum bitten, die Erde oder die Kleidung, Schuhe oder das Gepäck inspizieren zu dürfen, welche(s) in Kontakt mit Tieren oder landwirtschaftlichem Boden war, um zu bestimmen, ob diese gefährliche Organismen enthalten. Wenn er potenziell gefährliche Stoffe findet, werden Ihre Gegenstände desinfiziert, bevor Sie die Erlaubnis erhalten, diese einzuführen. Für das Einführen von Erde in die USA benötigen Sie eine Genehmigung.

Ja bei Nr. 13 oder 14: Wenn Sie Bargeld im Wert von mehr als $10.000 mit sich führen, erhalten Sie einfach ein besonderes Formular, das Sie für das US Finanzministerium ausfüllen müssen.

Für Gegenstände, die für den Verkauf vorgesehen sind, sollten Sie bereits vor Ihrer Abreise eine „formelle Einfuhrgenehmigung“ einholen. Sie tun könnten dies auch „vor Ort“ erledigen, aber diese Vorgänge unterliegen vielen Regeln und können sehr kompliziert sein.

NATURE PARADISE IN BREIDAFJORDUR AND VESTMANNAEYJAR ICELAND'S LARGEST & SMALLEST INHABITED ISLANDS

brjánslækur flatey stykkishólmur

reykjavík

landeyjahöfn vestmannaeyjar

Issue five 81

Chemin du terroir

A tasty tour of Canada The Chemin du Terroir (Route of the Earth) is an agrotourism trail that meanders along 140 miles (226 kilometers) of country backroads and byways of the Laurentian Mountains of Canada. Just an hour from Montreal, the trail runs between the Lake of Two Mountains (Lac des Deux Montagnes in French), the Ottawa River, and the Riviere du Nord.

by Judy Colbert Photos: Courtesy of Tourisme Leurentides

T

he Lake of Two Mountains is at least the third name for this body of water and the referenced moun­­­tains are Calvaire Mountain and Saint-Josephdu-Lac Hill, the two tallest peaks facing the lake from the north. The picturesque lake is roughly eight miles (13 kilometers) long by six miles (10 kilometers) wide or approximately 37 acres (150 square kilometers). Its deepest point is 31 miles (50 kilometers).

SLOW TRAVEL The self-guided trails of the Chemin du Terroir are an exploration of the country­­ side where you could spend a day or a week discovering small towns, heritage, culture, history, romance, food (cheeses, breads, apple orchards, honey and maple products), and beverage (wine, beer, vermouth, gin, mead, port and cider). The route’s suggestions include activities and tastings, regional cuisine, local products, and accommodations. Throw two or more interests together and you have a perfect combination and a great escape from the

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WOW Power to the people

Quebec is the world’s leading producer of maple products (responsible for 70 percent of the world’s production), from syrup to candy and beyond. The Federation of Quebec Maple Syrup Producers boasts over 7,000 producers scattered across Quebec.

city, whether it’s you and your family, just the two of you, or you’re wandering solo.

SWEET DELIGHTS AND GRAPE ADVENTURES Started in October 2010 the trails are indi­­­ cat­­ed by signs (e.g., three bottles in a circle mark the wine and spirits trail) to help you find your way as you reconnoiter around the area. As an example, you can taste your way through the “Maple Gourmet Road.”

Remember, that there is a maple leaf on the Canadian flag and it is there for a reason.

Native Americans introduced the French to the goodness of maple syrup when they arrived on the continent. Now, more than 100 maple masters are located throughout the province. Quebec is the world’s leading producer of maple products (responsible for 70 percent of the world’s production), from syrup to candy and beyond. The Federation of Quebec Maple Syrup Producers boasts over 7,000 producers scattered across Quebec.

The trees are 30-40 years old before they’re tapped for syrup and continue to please the world’s taste buds until they’re as much as

100 years old. While tapping the syrup is a March to April thing, many sugar shacks are open all year and may offer a short tour and explanation of the maple trees’ process as well as a shop full of goodies to taste and take home (maybe a Quebecois meat pie drizzled with maple syrup or a maplesmoked ham). As a special bonus, you’ll find family recipes that date back to the first maple trees.

Another suggested topic for investigation is the Brome-Missisquoi Wine Route (La Route des Vins), running along the eastern townships which explores the cradle of viti­­culture in Quebec. The soils and micro­­ climate have combined to create an area perfect for grape growing. Eighteen estate wineries are ready to welcome you, whether you’re new to wines or an oenophile. Stop for tastings and learn how grapes are grown in Quebec. Or, you can stop at a u-pick farm and collect your own delectable treats.

LOCAL FOOD There’s no question that Quebec has some of the best food in the best restaurants in

the world and now you can sample the farm part of “farm to fork” in the Terroir et Saveurs part of the trail and the restaurants that use the local food (www.terroiretsaveurs. com). A collaboration among Aliments du Quebec, the Association de l’Agrotourisme, and Tourisme Gourmand lists more than 450 locations where Quebec food is grown, prepared, or served.

For a summer foodie experience, follow one of five suggested routes along the Outaouais Gourmet Way (Parcours Outaouais Gourmet). You’ll have a choice of farms, restaurants, public markets, gourmet boutiques, and kitchen shops filled with the cooking utensil you didn’t realize until now that you need.

NATURE PROVIDES Should you be here in the winter and you love a snowy wonderland, you’re in for a super treat beside the warm welcome you’ll receive at local restaurants, attractions and establishments. The continent’s first ski lift was built here in 1931. Skiing took off and trainloads of Montreal skiers flocked to the area by the end of the decade. The mountains and valleys are gentle with more than 9,000 lakes and cute postcardperfect mountain towns. Besides downhill skiing, there’s cross-country skiing, snowboarding, dogsledding, and snowboarding. If snow isn’t your thing, wait a few weeks and try

the rafting, canoeing, hiking, golf and camping. The 143 miles (232 kilometers) of train tracks that used to carry hundreds of adventure seekers here from Montreal is now the bed for Canada’s longest linear park, Le P’tit Train du Nord.

Depending on the season, you can bike or stroll, or glide along on in-line skates or cross-country skis. Along the way is a plethora of small towns and villages where you can explore railway stations, restaurants, art galleries and boutiques.

STAY AWHILE

For a summer foodie experience, follow one of five suggested routes along the Outaouais Gourmet Way (Parcours Outa­ ouais Gourmet).

You’ll have a choice of farms, restaurants, public markets, gourmet boutiques, and kitchen shops filled with the cook­ ing utensil you didn’t realize until now that you need.

A huge selection of accommodations include exquisite resorts, hotels and inns, cottages, condos, tourist homes, bed and breakfast places, campgrounds and outfitters are available according to your tastes and budget, so you don’t have to worry about exploring the area and having to return to Montreal in one day.

Once you’re home and you realize, “Oh, we should have bought …” this or that, you can always check out Quebec-made products at the online shop: www.terroiretsaveurs. com. There is an enormous range of products available from dehydrated blueberries to lobster oil with fresh vanilla.

Venture into the province of Quebec and seek out its many attractions.

It’s an experience that will fill you with fond memories for many years to come.

Astounding nature, great food and nice people. That’s Canada for you, eh?!

WOW air offers cheap flights to both Montréal and Toronto in Canada, all year round. Find your flight and a WOW stopover in Iceland at wowair.com.

Issue five 83

Chicago’s three coolest hoods

Wicker Park, Bucktown & Logan Square Just a stone’s throw from Chicago’s city center are three neighborhoods well worth a shopping visit.

by Cindy-Lou Dale

W

icker Park seamlessly melds into Bucktown, its neighbor to the north acquiring its name at the turn of the last century when immigrant families kept goats in their front yards. Today, Wicker Park is polished and chic while Bucktown is arty and laidback. Similarly, the leafy neighborhood of Logan Square, an uber-ethnical cultural mix is on the verge of being gentrified.

Between the three neighborhoods, you’ll find top fashion lines and indie boutiques, gourmet restaurants, artisan grab-andgo spots, live music, art galleries—all delivered in an innovative vibe. Pick a direction and you’re bound to find an indie music store, a new cocktail, or a lifechanging taco—probably all in one shop!

WALK AROUND TOWN

Make the most of your visit and book a free walking tour with Chicago Greeters.

It’s a popular Chicago-wide service operated by local volunteers who’ll take you on a two to four-hour excursion uniquely customized to your particular inter­ests. My Chicago Greeter, Laurel, gave me the insider view of Logan Square, Wicker Park and Bucktown, and intro­­duc­­ ed me to a host of interesting shops.

We picked at a few sample items at Goddess and Grocer an upscale gourmet shop and full-service deli in Wicker Park, then tried on a few hats at Goorin Brothers, a men’s hat shop and did a bit of more picking at Lil’ Guys who sells all things homemade and gourmet. We looked in at Piece Brewery for a pint of something nice and immediately got the munchies when we spotted their thin crust New-Haven styled pizza. Another craft beer followed it at Revolution Brewing. For vintage-inspired shopping hit Havlan & West. I found arty shoes at Bucketfeet, and at Psychobaby there’s a bit of rock-n-roll attitude in children’s wear. We rounded the day off with an elegant cocktail at the dimly lit Violet Hour, with its high-backed chairs, marble bar and crystal chandeliers.

For hot vintage from the 80s and 90s, Chicago’s No 1 source is Kokorokoko Vintage. You’ll find vinyl records at Bucket of Blood, and at Logan Square Hardware Arcade I indulged my inner child with their vintage arcade games.

Square’s green space. At Your Happy Place Liquors, David explained his concept of art-meets-booze-meets-cigars-meetsneighborhood-hangout. His shop features rotating local artists and a selection of liqueurs, wine, and beer that you’ll struggle to find anywhere in Chicago; for a kick in the pants, try his Icelandic schnapps, Brennivin!

Wolfbait & B-girls is not only where Chicago shops, but where Chicago sells local talent. It’s a one-stop shop for unique and practical clothing, playful accessories, and one-of-a-kind handcrafted treasures. Then there’s Uncharted Books, a laid-back used bookshop bursting with must reads. Take your time to dig, then have a seat at the vintage table. Shop owner Tanner McSwain, and the shop dog, Ramona, host occasional author events.

VINTAGE HIPSTERISM For hot vintage from the 80s and 90s, Chicago’s No 1 source is Kokorokoko Vintage.

You’ll find vinyl records at Bucket of Blood, and at Logan Square Hardware Arcade I indulged my inner child with their vintage arcade games. For bowlers, there’s the Fireside Bowling Alley, and for those looking to explore aerial and circus disciplines, there’s Aloft Circus Arts, housed inside a church.

Should you be in the mood for southeast Asian fusion, try Fat Rice. Alternatively, there’s Trike, sushi and Thai restaurant, or Park & Field, a former car repair workshop turned trendy eatery. Otherwise, there’s tapas at Azucar, which is directly beside a comic book store. Your dessert must be a wedge of key lime pie at Bang Bang Pie Shop, followed by a “Tusk at Dusk” soda at the Same Day Café, a trendy a soda bar and hipster eatery with a 1950s farm to fork menu. Finally, have yourself a long drink and take the rest of the night to enjoy Rosa’s Blues Bar. www.chicagogreeter.com

LUNCH AT LOGAN SQUARE Lula’s Café is a pioneer in the farm to fork movement. Their young, mostly self-taught

chefs have taken to cooking outside the boundaries. Sometimes it’s risky, yet always grounded. There’s no pretense about this Bohemian, slightly disheveled, bistro which overlooks Logan Square’s park. Some twenty years ago, they opened a small storefront with a four-burner home stove and a dented collection of thrift shop pots and pans. Now they stretch across three storefronts and have upgraded their pots.

As a card-carrying vegetarian for +22 years, I critically examine the menu, seeking out options I could eat. Then I smelled it—the deep, warm and comforting aromas of garlic and chili. A sullen waiter wafts past, delivering a plate with what looks like a crispy pancake with an egg on top to the table in the shop-front window.

“I’ll have one of those,” I said as the waiter made his retreat. “What does it contain?” He brightens up and clears his throat, pleased to deliver good news. “That, madam, is a Potato Crepe on top of beef short-rib that’s been massaged with chilies and garlic then slow cooked for 24 hours using the sousvide technique. It’s prepared with sautéed cauliflower florets, fennel confit and Manchego cheese. Our chef then places a wafer-thin potato crepe on top and a sunny egg on top of that.”

I felt foolish for asking but had to inquire after a vegetarian option of the same dish.

Of course, there was none—the beef was the star of the show. I looked at my fellow diner’s plate, sought solace from the Norwegian Lutheran church beyond, then threw caution to the wind. “Oh, what the heck, bring it on!”

I ease the oozing, dark, luscious meat onto my fork. On my tongue, its succulence melts away. It tastes exactly as it smells— spicy, salty, sweet, comforting. This is a religious experience—one that converts the reformed.

Of course, I’d literally dropped a cluster bomb in my stomach and paid for my sins later—but it was worth every delicious morsel. www.lulacafe.com

ART, BOOZE AND MORE At Logan Square, we took in a show at the art-deco Logan Theater, and then visited the Comfort Station, a tiny multidisciplinary art spot in the heart of Logan

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WOW Power to the people

WOW air offers cheap flights to Chicago every day of the week, all year round. Book your flight and a WOW stopover at wowair.com.

If you want to be cool, go to Chicago. They know how to do it. www.ChooseChicago.com

Issue five 85

Winter in Washington, D.C. and Baltimore

Photo: Ken Stanek / kenstanek.com

Let it snow, let it snow Winter is a perfect time to visit Baltimore and Washington, D.C. Oh, the weather can be cold and snowy, but you can see and do things in the winter that you can’t during other times of the year, and there aren’t nearly as many tourists.

by Judy Colbert Photos; iStockphoto.com

MIRACLE ON 34TH STREET Starting in Baltimore, there’s the worldfamous “Miracle on 34th Street,” a short block of row houses in the Hampden section of Baltimore where owners decorate almost every visible inch of every home, roof, and yard with lights and animations. Look for the 10’ tall hubcap Christmas tree by artist Jim Pollock, the bike rim snowman, an outdoor train garden, and the big red-lit crab. Sign the guestbook on the porch at the home of Bob and Dar Hosier. The lights are on from about 6-11 pm the weekend after

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WOW Power to the people

You’ll see the Washington Monument in the Mount Vernon section of the city, Fells Point, Harbor East, Canton, and, of course, the Miracle on 34th Street.

Thanksgiving through January 1, except for December 24 and 31 when they’re on all night. There is no admission fee for this neighborhood celebration. www.christmasstreet.com

HOLLY JOLLY TROLLEY Next, take the two-hour narrated ride on the seasonally decorated Holly Jolly Trolley ride where you’ll learn about the history of Charm City. You’ll see the Washington Monument in the Mount Vernon section of the city, Fells Point, Harbor East, Canton, and, of course, the Miracle on 34th Street. The tour

ARTECHOUSE. Photo: Hasnain Bhatti

is offered twice a night, at 6 and 8:30, Thursday through Sunday in December.

Check www.zbestlimo.com/baltimore-trolley-tour for tickets.

CLASSIC WINTER FUN For a Currier & Ives memory of Baltimore spend an hour or so ice skating at the Pandora Ice Rink at the top of the amphitheater. Whether a midday break or an evening date, you’re in the middle of everything that’s happening at the Inner Harbor.

On the one side is the Science Center and Visitor Center and to the other is the World Trade Center, the historic ships, and the National Aquarium. The rink is open from November 10 through January 15 with special programming and events scheduled regularly. Rental skates are available. baltimore.org/article/ice-rink-baltimores-inner-harbor.

ADVENTURES BY THE WASHINGTON WATERFRONT Just 40 miles southwest of Baltimore is Washington, DC where two new attractions have opened. Katie Bianco has written the second edition of 100 Things to Do in Washington, D.C. Before You Die and says the Wharf in Southwest Washington “is relatively new, but it’s already become one of my go-to weekend spots. My kids love being by the water and eating at Shake Shack, and my husband and I can do date night there at one of the sit-down restaurants.” The Wharf, in a revitalized section of DC’s historic Southwest Waterfront section, is home to the nation’s longest continually operating open-air fish market. The Anthem is a 6,000-seat concert venue, surrounded by more than 20 restaurants and bars (including

"My kids love being by the water and eating at Shake Shack, and my ­hus­band and I can do date night there at one of the sitdown restaurants.”

The Wharf, in a revitalized section of DC’s historic Southwest Waterfront section, is home to the na­tion’s longest continually operat­ ing open-air fish market.

chefs Fabio Trabocchi, Kwame Onwuachi, and Cathal Armstrong and his wife Meshelle), with choice waterfront views and an array of cuisines. “Politics and Prose” is a new location for a DC destination bookstore and is only one of many shops and boutiques. www.wharfdc.com/wharf/

DIGITAL DELIGHTS In a city filled with incredible art galleries ranging from pre-historic to contemporary, ARTECHOUSE (art, tech, house) is at the crossroads of art, science, and technology, ARTECHOUSE is a first-of-its-kind innovative art space dedicated to showcasing experiential and immersive large-scale installations by artists who are forerunners of the new age in arts and technology. Their goal is to create interactive, multi-sensory art experiences and a digital playground for all ages. And then there’s the bar that offers drinks with augmented reality.”

This fall (2018) at ARTECHOUSE, step into a colorful digital menagerie of natureinspired creatures and plant life that will react in real-time to your gestures and actions. New Nature is the first solo exhibition for Polish-born, San-Franciscobased digital artist Marpi. The highly interactive exhibit inspired by early gaming platforms explores our organic world through immersive audio-visual experience, incorporating responsive technology, computer learning (A.I.), and music. www.dc.artechouse.com

ART AND ICE When you want to combine art and exercises, head to six-acre Sculpture Garden for D.C.’s rink on the Mall. Skating to recorded music, you can look at the sculptures, and take in a panoramic view of the Mall. The large-scale contemporary sculptures are by such notable artists as Louise Bourgeois, Sol LeWitt, Roy Lichtenstein, Roxy Paine, and Tony Smith. A self-service Pavilion Café has indoor and outdoor seating.

Rental skates are available. The rink is open, weather permitting, from November through mid-March.

Get into the festive spirit and taka a winter trip to Washington, D.C. and Baltimore.

WOW air offers cheap flight to Baltimore-Washington International airport every day of the year, all year round.

LET’S TACO ‘BOUT IT

HY HEALT LOCAL OOD FAST F CHAIN

Mexican food that is a true fiesta for your taste buds!

We are at eight locations in the Reykjavik area and one in Akureyri: The N1 service stations at Hringbraut and Bíldshöfði. The shopping malls Kringlan and Smáralind and Akureyri center among other places.

Issue five 87

Detroit

One of two Tiffany clocks at the Guardian building.

The Guardian building.

Native American motifs at the Penobscot building.

City of Amazing Architecture Detroit, Michigan, has been called City of Trees, Hitsville, The Motor City Motown, the Paris of the Midwest, the Renaissance City, and most recently, a well-deserved America’s Comeback City. With its skyline and streetscape filled with extraordinary historic buildings, many of them completed in the late 1920s, perhaps it should also be called the City of Amazing Architecture.

by Judy Colbert Photos: Bill Bowen

S

ome buildings stand tall and grand, some elaborate, and others just jaw-droppingly beautiful. A number have been designated as National Historic Landmarks. Some are open for tours are others are limited to an outer view. Interior tours are offered at the Fisher Building and the Fox Theater. Other tours are available through various companies; their names are at the bottom.

Here are some of the stellar examples THE GUARDIAN BUILDING Exemplifying art deco architecture per­­­fec­­ tion, the Guardian Building was designed by Harvard-educated architect Wirt C. Rowland, a member of the prestigious architectural firm of Smith Hinchman & Gryllis. Promoted as “the Cathedral of Finance,” it incorporates Native American, Aztec, and Arts and Crafts styles. The painted murals and ceilings, the mosaics, marble fixtures, tiles and other artistic details were created by a mere 40 arti­­sans. It’s said the red marble came

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WOW Power to the people

from a mine in Tunisia, Africa that had been closed for more than 30 years. It was reopened to quarry this marble for the 1929 building and has been closed ever since. The two back-to-back Tiffany clocks in the lobby came from New York and are said to be the only ones of this design left in the country.

Plan to spend a lot of time looking at the exquisite mosaics.

THE PENOBSCOT BUILDING When the 47-story Penobscot Building, also by Wirt C. Rowland, was built in 1928, it was the tallest building in Michigan, the fourth tallest building in the United States, and the eighth tallest building in the world.

Named in honor of the powerful Penobscot a Native American tribe from Maine, the building features an Art Deco style, including the “H” shape that allows more natural light into the building than if it were square or rectangular, and Native American motifs created by architect Corrado Parducci. Look at the entrance and in the lobby for notable

The Women’s Rights Move­ ment officially began here with the first Convention on Women’s Rights at the Wesleyan Chapel on Fall Street.

examples of his work. According to Dan Austin of Historic Detroit, “There is an urban legend that the building’s 100-foot tower with its winking red orb was once used as a port for a blimp. In truth, this “blazing ball of fire,” as one newspaper article described it at the time, was simply an aviation beacon.” The ball is 12’ in diameter and on a clear night can be seen 40 miles away.

THE FISHER BUILDING Designed by industrial architect Albert Kahn (who also designed Cranbrook House and the Dearborn Inn in Dearborn), the Fisher Building was finished in 1928 and is considered the city’s largest art object. It’s built of limestone, granite and several types of marble, and houses the iconic Fisher Theatre. For those who “are of an age,” this is the Fisher family of Body

by Fisher in General Motors cars. It was designated a National Historic Landmark on June 29, 1989. Free tours are offered most weekend days where an expert guide will tell you about the family, business, and

Conservatory of Music, and New York’s World Trade Center in 1972. Exterior lighting on the building is red and green during December and red, white and blue around July 1 and July 4 (Can­­ ada Day and U.S. Independence Day).

FOX THEATRE With spectacular Siamese Byzantine (interior) and Beaux Arts (exterior), Fox Theatre opened on September 21, 1928, and was the crown jewel of the city’s theater district. It was the flagship theater in the Fox Theatres chain, designed by C. Howard Crane, a theater architect. Louis Armstrong, Cab Calloway, Frank Sinatra, Sammy Davis Jr., Stevie Wonder, Elvis Presley and Diana Ross are just a few of the famous performers who entertained sold-out audiences in the 5,000-plus theater. After massive deterioration in the 1970s, the theater was meticu­ lously restored by Michael and Marian Ilitch, with a gala reopening on November 19, 1988. Notably, 80 percent of the original surfaces were saved.

The Fisher Building

the architects involved in the design and construction. Marvel at the exquisite design and ornamentation of the interior arcade, including one-of-a-kind mosaics, painted ceilings, art deco chandeliers, and fine craftsmanship in stone, brass and bronze. You also have exclusive access to the third floor of the grand arcade and the building’s 22nd floor On the 22nd floor, you’ll get a 360-degree view of Detroit so bring your camera. Check with the Pure Detroit store on the ground floor be­­ fore going up.

ONE WOODWARD AVENUE One Woodward Avenue was design­ed

by Minoru Yamasaki, a Japa­nese­ American architect who moved to Detroit in 1945 and joined the firm of Smith, Hinchman and Grylis. He’s responsible for Detroit office build­­ ings, houses of worship, edu­­­cational institutions, homes, and this one, his first skyscraper, in 1962. Note the top and bottom of the window open­ings that meet in a stylized arch that Yamasaki would use again in his IBM building in Seattle, the Oberlin

NORTHERN LIGHTS

BY BOAT

THE ORIGINAL NORTHERN LIGHTS

BY BOAT TOUR

As a temptation to get you to visit, the grand lobby is six stories tall, the chandelier in the auditorium is 13’ in diameter, and the gold-embellished decorations came from around the world. The theater was listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1985 and was designated a National Historic Landmark in 1989 for its architecture. Tours are offered for groups of 15 or more, for a fee. Or, you can just look when you catch a show from their long list of performances.

TOUR COMPANIES OFFERING ARCHI­­TECTUR­AL TOURS

ALSO TRY

WHALE WATCHING

Feet on the Street enjoythed.com Fox Theatre www.fowtheatredetroit.net Submit request online Detroit Urban Adventures www.detroiturbanadventures.com/ Detroit-tours Preservation Detroit www.PreservationDetroit.org Detroit Experience Factory detroitexperiencefactory.org Pure Detroit shop.puredetroit.com About the author: Judy Colbert is the author of 100 Things to Do in Baltimore Before You Die and Chesapeake Bay Crabs cookbook.

Look up, look around, and go to town on those architectural gems in Detroit.

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Issue five 89

WOW air in Florida

Orlando: The perfect holiday spot Few places in the world are better equipped to entertain a large family with varied interests. That is, if everyone in the family likes nice weather, of course. The sunshine state of Florida is a sunny and happy place and it’s packed with fun activities for young and old.

by Guðrún Baldvina Sævarsdóttir Photos: istockphoto.com

WALT DISNEY WORLD Those who have never been to Walt Disney World might think it’s just a Mickey Mouse version of an amusement park. But that’s not the case. We’re talking 4 enormous amusement parks and 2 water parks, complete with roller coasters, slides, rides, musical entertainment and all the fun in the world. And it will likely be the only topic of discussion in your household for a long time because this is a real-life adventure.

Not to mention the rides and the slides and all the wonderful entertainment.

It doesn’t hurt that the Legoland in Florida is the second largest Legoland in the world. Let your inner child go free.

Pretend you’re doing it for your kids and “Leg Godt”!

The Kennedy Space Center is a great destination where you can experience life outside the ozone layer, see actual space shuttles face to face and gain a deeper understanding of NASA’s space program.

This is an otherworldly experience if there ever was one.

•

The amazing Grand Cypress with 45 holes has been the home of many big tournaments.

This is a place of luxury so have an abundant breakfast, stretch those arms of potential and play the best golf of your life. It’s now or never.

•

Waldorf Astoria Golf Club is another one of those glorious courses in the Orlando area.

It was designed by the renowned Rees Jones and has received numerous awards. It’s also been named as one of America’s top golf courses open to the public.

•

Reunion Resort is a very popular destination among golfers and for good reason. There are three golf courses here, designed by golf legends Jack Nicklaus, Arnold Palmer and Tom Watson. No wonder Reunion Resort was chosen as one of Florida’s six best golf destinations by Golf Digest Magazine.

WHITE SANDS If the fun is getting overwhelming and golfing isn’t your thing, just head to the beach and set yourself on relaxation mode Orlando is in the middle of Florida and there is an abundance of beaches east, west and south of the city. Go east to catch the sunrise by the Atlantic Ocean, west for a beautiful sunset on the Gulf of Mexico or south for a lovely lakeside experience.

UNIVERSAL STUDIOS Meet Harry Potter, ride a bike to the moon with E.T. and sit back on the Simpson’s couch in virtual reality.

Universal Studios is a place where you can step into make belief, meet your heroes and above all, have some serious fun all day long.

TO OUTER SPACE! The Kennedy Space Center is a great destination where you can experience life outside the ozone layer, see actual space shuttles face to face and gain a deeper understanding of NASA’s space program. This is an otherworldly experience if there ever was one.

LEGOLAND Who doesn’t love Lego? Who doesn’t love giant Lego-models of famous places?

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ALL THE GLORIOUS GOLF You can’t talk about Orlando without mentioning the golf, cause if there’s one thing the good people of Florida know, it has world-class golf courses. You can’t throw a rock in this state without it ending up on a golf course so be sure to do your homework to find the right course to suit both your ability and budget. In the meantime, here are three amazing courses, all a stone’s throw away from the airport, in case you’re in a real rush to tee off:

Don’t miss out on the vacation of a lifetime for the whole family in Orlando, Florida this winter.

WOW air offers cheap flights to Orlando, Florida this winter.

From December through April 2019.

Icelandic wool

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Highland fling

Motorcycling Scotland's North Coast 500 I powered uphill toward a sharp-curved summit near Drumbeg and stopped in awe at the spectacular view of rugged isles and craggy peninsulas fringed by alabaster-white beaches. Beyond, glacier-scoured mountains surged towards the untamed northwest extreme of Britain; then a red fox trotted across the road. As I raised my camera she turned bushy tail and merged into the gorse like a ghost.

by Christopher P. Baker

M

y second day riding the North Coast 500 route was proving wilder than my wildest dreams as it twined through the Scottish High­­ lands like fine whisky pouring through heather. In 2005 Prince Charles’ non-profit North Highland Initiative conceived this iconic touring itinerary stitching together various roads around the coastal edge of the Highlands. Carving a tortuous course via John O’Groats and the Northwest High­­lands, the “NC500” forms a 500-mile loop that begins and ends in Inverness.

Epic scenery and breathtaking wilderness, plus castles, whisky distilleries, and saltyaired seaside villages are some of the reasons this journey is hailed as one of the world’s most spectacular drives.

LIKE BEES TO BERRIES Four wheels will give you a memorable journey—two will make it unforgettable.

Combining the classic road trip desire for adventure and freedom with exhilarating switchbacks and twisties, the route is as thrilling a motorcycle journey as any in Britain. No wonder bikers are drawn to the NC500 like bees to berries. So, I arranged through Saltire Motorcycles, in Edinburgh, for a 2017 Indian Roadmaster—a deluxe “heritage” tourer with vast fairing and windshield to protect against being drookit (drenched) if it rained.

After a night at Edinburgh’s artsy G&V Hotel, I fired up the big V-twin and set course north via Cairngorms National Park—gateway to the Highlands—for Inverness. The chance of a stag leaping in front of your vehicle is a distinct possibility. Sure enough, outside Pitlochry a sign warned “Deer for 4 miles.” Moments later I consorted with a deer running parallel almost within fingertip reach.

Suddenly it skewed right and bolted in front of me. As I jerked on the brake, the panicked buck hit the deck with hooves flailing. Nature seems so much closer from the seat of a saddle!

BOUND FOR THE HIGHLANDS “When you’re in the saddle the forecast will be the skies in front of you. In Scotland, there’s little point in looking any further ahead,” Calum Murray, owner of Saltire Motorcycles had told me. I departed Inverness’s Rocpool Reserve

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Combining the classic road trip desire for adventure and freedom with exhilarating switchbacks and twisties, the route is as thrilling a motorcycle journey as any in Britain. No wonder bikers are drawn to the NC500 like bees to berries.

hotel—a chic conversion of a 19th-century manse—in light rain. It didn’t let up, the seascape barely visible throughout my day’s ride to Wick.

This section offers plenty of intriguing sites at which to duck the dreich weather: Neolithic burial chambers dating back 5,000 years, Pictish stone stelae with enigmatic engravings, and—a de rigueur stop— Dunrobin Castle, the Duke of Sutherland’s dramatic French-style chateau, pinned by fairytale towers like a piece of the Loire Valley transplanted. Don’t miss the twice-daily falconry display in the gardens below. Then I warmed up with a wee dram at the historic Clynelish Distillery after a fascinating factory tour. Thankfully, the clouds cleared as I drew up to 15th-century Ackergill Tower, a baronial-style estate hotel with crenellated ramparts rising drama­­ tically over the tidepools of Sinclair Bay. BREATHTAKING GRANDEUR Beyond John O’Groats, the circuit cranks up the drama as the A836 scrolls through a vast expanse of heather-carpeted moor and bog, augers down past Castle Varich to lovely Loch Eribol, then swoops past picture-post­

card beaches with Caribbean-blue seas.

It’s the stuff of coastal-ride dreams. You’re never far from melancholic history, however.

The route is studded with long-abandoned crofts dating back to the Highland “Clear­­ ances,” when wealthy landowners evicted tenants for more profitable sheep grazing.

Lambs litter the road.

Cutting south from Durness, the NC500 slingshots through a wild, minimalist land­­ scape of wind-ruffled lochans and domeshaped mountains rising sheer from moors cloaked in heather and gorse. Oncoming cars and campervans courteously pulled over for me at Passing Places, spaced on average every 100 meters. Crossing the curving Kylesku Bridge I turned west onto the snake-thin B869. This “wee bad” section circling the remote Assynt Peninsula is a writhing roller-coaster that left me still smiling as I pulled up to the Inver Lodge Hotel, perched over Loch Inver. You could never have so much E-ticket fun in a car.

WEST COAST DELIGHT Next morning, I looked out on a cold horizon, the loch buried beneath a charcoal sky. But ensconced in a well-heated saddle and dry

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Highland flink

At the hamlet of Applecross, the route turns inland to claw its way to 626 meters over the third highest road pass in Britain. The Beleach na Bà (“Pass of the Cattle”) also claims the UK’s steepest prolonged ascent, with gradients of 1 in 5 on the hairpins.

behind the fairings, I accepted Scotland’s famously fickle weather with a smile.

From Lochinver, the NC500 ripples east past Loch Assynt and turns south for Ullapool, a lovely fishing port nestled on the shores of Loch Broom. I was treated to staggering views of Suilven, Cul Mor and Stac Pollaidh—dark brooding inselbergs, inconceivably old—silhouetted by golden streaks slicing down through the clouds.

These sandstone “sugarloafs” rise from a plinth of three-billion-year-old Lewisian gneiss. Speeding along the NC500’s two-lane sections seems at odds with the ancient geological languor. Take it slow.

Shifting westward as the A896, the route whittles down to a sliver and slices down through Glen Torridon, hemmed specta­ cularly by sheer terraced mountains. I admired the archetypal Highland land­­ scape from the warmth of The Torridon, a sumptuous former hunting lodge at the head of an eponymous sea loch. This corner of Scotland has plenty of delicious dining, from venison to fresh-caught lobster and Scrabster salmon. At The Torridon I savored hand-dived scallops, succulent lamb rump with turnips and kale, and a divine white chocolate semifreddo with strawberries and almonds.

ULTIMATE HIGH Beyond Torridon, the route—now an un­­ marked one-laner—hugs the shore of the Applecross Peninsula. Sport bikes flew by. No wonder! The 24 miles to Applecross unfurl a non-stop, grin-inducing combo of tight corners, whirling twisties, and wide-open clifftop straights. It’s a perfect warm-up for what’s considered the apogee

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of the NC500. At the hamlet of Applecross, the route turns inland to claw its way to 626 meters over the third highest road pass in Britain. The Beleach na Bà (“Pass of the Cattle”) also claims the UK’s steepest prolonged ascent, with gradients of 1 in 5 on the hairpins.

As I throttled uphill from Applecross a stag appeared on the hillside. Then an entire herd dashed from the woods and across the road. A thrilling reminder for caution!

Within minutes I was amid a swirling cloud. The summit viewpoint lost in fog.

Still, the ride was sublime, corkscrewing in precipitous hairpins then sluicing downhill through a U-shaped valley to Tornapress and a fast, eastbound beeline for Inverness.

As I closed in on the finish, sunbeams broke through the clouds to the north, tempting me to ride the NC500 again.

HELPFUL HINTS Tours and Bike Rental: Saltire Motorcycles www.saltiremotorcycles.com Accommodations: G&V Royal Mile Hotel www.quorvuscollection.com Rocpool Reserve www.rocpool.com Ackergill Tower www.ackergilltower.com Inver Lodge Hotel www.inverlodge.com The Torridon www.thetorridon.com

THE NORTH COAST 500 ROUTE Although it’s possible to complete the route in two days in a rush, it’s better to do it over four or five days at a relaxed pace.

With so many sites to see—breweries, whisky distilleries, cultural centers, etc.—one week isn’t too much. It can be ridden either clockwise or counterclockwise. The latter is best, as the increasingly spectacular scenery builds up the drama of the Beleach Na Bà switchback. However, unless you’ve already made hotel reservations, it may be best to check the forecast and take whichever direction promises the best weather. Much of the route is on single-track road, with regular passing places. Fuel stops are few and far between and those on the West Coast close on Sunday.

The route has its own website with interactive maps: www.northcoast500.com.

About the author: Christopher P. Baker is a professional travel writer, motojournalist and tour leader.

Scotland’s magnificent countryside is just what the doctor ordered.

Throw in a bit of whiskey tasting just for good measure. Cheers!

WOW air offers cheap flights to Edinburgh, Scotland, 3-4 times a week. Book your flight and a WOW stopover in Iceland at wowair.com.

“The Icelandic Museum of Rock 'n' Roll is as eccentric in its telling as the tale it celebrates.”

David Fricke, Rolling Stone.

THE ICELANDIC MUSEUM OF ROCK 'N' ROLL

Visit Iceland's largest music museum and enjoy our history of Icelandic rock and pop music.

Browse through the timeline of Icelandic pop and rock music with the Rock 'n' Roll app on Ipads, spend time in our soundlab, cinema, karaoke booth, gift store, exhibitions or simply grab a cup of coffee at our café (free wifi!).

The museum is located in Keflavík only 5 minutes away from Keflavík International Airport.

Open daily from 11am - 6pm For more go to rokksafn.is

The Icelandic Museum of Rock 'n' Roll

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Amsterdam

Escape the maze Don’t believe everything you’ve heard about Amsterdam. We’re here to tell you that this city is so much more.

by Thorbergur Kristjánsson

A

msterdam has been notoriously famous for its liberal views on marijuana use and prostitution for years. Even the city’s coat of arms, found on every public transport station, reads “XXX Amsterdam,” a symbol most commonly associated with “explicit adult content” (and occasionally “hugs and kisses”). But put that adult entertainment aside for a minute and explore what you can find if you manage to escape the maze that the center so famously can become, especially after a puff or two.

A MELTING POT OF DIVERSITY Amsterdam’s entire city center seems organized around offering people servic­­es that other parts of the world have crimi­­­ nalized. Whether it’s entering a coffee shop for the first time or taking a stroll through the Red Light District, you’ll find a unique combination of full frontal confrontation with all things sex-related and one of the most commonly smoked drugs known to man, cannabis. Luckily, however, there’s more to Amsterdam than meets the eye. As a home to over 180 nationalities, the different areas of the city have characters of their own and given this capital’s relatively small size, getting from place to place on a bicycle is by far the most convenient option, even for those who haven’t stepped on a bike since childhood. The city’s infrastructure is wholeheartedly built around cyclists, so as long as you stick to the right, everything will be fine.

THE BEST OF THE WEST Pedaling west of Dam Square leads you to Jordaan, where Anne Frank famously stayed in hiding during the Second World War. Here, along with the famous Nine Streets, you’ll find some of the most photo­­­genic canal views of the city. The area is buzzing with cafés, secondhand shops and design workshops, a real treat for window-shopping aficionados.

Jord­aan is a UNESCO World Heritage Site with some buildings dating back over 500 years. Look up, and pay attention to how some of the buildings have started to tilt over the years.

The Jewish Quarters are the most adora­ ble part of the city, and most defi­­nitely a sight to see. Cycle further west and you will reach the Oude Barsjees or the Old

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Amsterdam’s entire city center seems organized around offering people servic­­es that other parts of the world have crimi­­­nalized.

Whether it’s en­­ tering a coffee shop for the first time or taking a stroll through the Red Light District, you’ll find a unique combination of full frontal confrontation with all things sex-related and one of the most commonly smoked drugs known to man, cannabis.

West neighborhood. Some of the best restaurants in town are around here, where the locals know they get the best value for their money. The West is home to both Vondelpark and Rembrandtpark, for vast amounts of greenery and birdlife.

A tad bit further you’ll find a large lake, Sloterplas, in which you can take a swim on a hot summer day.

HEAD EAST FOR HIP BAR-HOPPING Southeast of the center, right behind the Heineken Experience, lies De Pijp, which incidentally, bears the name of a common smoking device, a pipe. It’s a popular bar-hopping destination for the locals and home to the largest street market in the city, the Albert Cuyp Market. The rugged rawness of this area has a charm of its own, making it the most popular place for young people to rent a room. Prices for food and drinks drop considerably compared to the city center, making it an attractive option for anyone looking to make the most of their budget while hitt­ ing the town.

This area hosts a considerable amount of hip wine bars, some organic, others vegan, all original attempts at finding a niche in the market, separating themselves from the stiff competition. East of De Pijp you find Amsterdam East, which much like Amsterdam West has numerous rest­­aurants worth visiting and the city’s botani­cal gardens and zoo.

interesting concepts and sustainability initiatives on this side of town, especially close to the NDSM Werf area.

MORE THAN MEETS THE EYE Amsterdam is a city with plenty more to offer than the sex-tourism-driven maze that the city center seems to represent at night. And although misleading at first glance, the city’s coat of arms has everything to do with cultural heritage, rather than serving as an advertisement for the Red Light District. In fact, several theories have evolved around what the triple X symbol signifies, including the traditional three kisses that the Dutch exchange when greeting or the three obstacles the city has repeatedly overcome throughout history; floods, fires, and Black Death. The most reputable theory, however, indicates that the three crosses represent the three towns that the wealthy Persijn family once owned, Amsterdam, Ouder-Amstel and NiewerAmstel, with the black line running through the crosses representing the Amstel River, which today separates Amsterdam East from De Pijp.

It’s time to relive your childhood, do like the Dutchies, step on that bicycle and start exploring beyond the maze. Have a break by the canals with your favorite beverage in hand and enjoy the adorable cosmopolitan city that Amsterdam is and always will be.

GET INSPIRED ACROSS THE NORTH SEA CANAL Bring your bike on the ferry free of charge for a complete change of scenery in Amster­dam North, location of the former shipping docks of the capital, where arts and creativity fill up the formerly ind­­­us­­­ tri­a­­lized part of town. This area is now home to an abandoned Soviet sub­­­marine from the Cold War, a restaurant made of shipping containers and the bigg­­ est secondhand market of Europe, the IJ-­Hallen. The newly risen A’DAM Tower with Europe’s highest over-the-edge swing and the EYE Film Museum are also to be found here. Rest assured, you will find Fun, interesting and fully legal, Amsterdam will amaze you when you get out of the maze.

WOW air offers cheap flights to Amsterdam every day of the year. Book your flight at wowair.com.

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Amazing India

Holi festival:

A celebration of colors

Holi festival, better known as the Holica is one of the greatest festivals held in India and Nepal. Festive energy is expressed by layer upon layer of colorful powder spray, coupled with loud songs, dances and parades from morning to late night.

by Gilad Fiskus

FINDING THE FRINGE Children and teenage boys chase and spray colored powder or liquid upon anybody they come across. No one is off limits, especially elegantly dressed people, who are targeted without mercy.

The colored powder spray custom is called Gulal, and together with colored water blasting and bonfires, this is how Hindus celebrate the approach of the fresh spring season. Additional traditional acts are prayer, alcohol consumption and bhang lassi drink­ ing, which is marijuana blended with hot milk.

A ROWDY AFFAIR Teenage drummer groups march from place to place, sing, dance and drag people into the festivities.

Influenced by the alcohol and “hidden from the eyes of the gods” thanks to the colored clouds, women are warned to pay attention and stay away from groups of men. Many intoxicated gangs move together, shout loud ‘Happy Holi’ and attempt to hug everyone, especi­ally young women.

Holi is celebrated at the end of the winter, on the last day of the month Phalgan.

Phalgan in the Hindu calendar coincides with the period in between midFebruary and mid-March.

Above all, what makes Holi so unique is the boundary removal of the social castes and free crowd mixing. Men and women, young and old, poor and rich and members of different castes are all happily celebrating together.

It is customary to wear white clothing during Holi so that the variety of colors will be distinctly displayed. One way or the other, at the end of the day everyone is covered with colors from head to toe. Therefore, it is recommended to hit the streets with minimal carry on and make sure your more precious belongings are well protected with tightly sealed plastic bags. The Holi experience is worth the effort and it is strongly recommended to have fun and flow with the commotion.

THE LEGENDS ASSOCIATED WITH THE FESTIVITIES Holi festival is a Hindu religious celebration indicating the beginning of the spring season and in accordance with the mythology, the victory of good over evil. The colors symbolize vitality and the festivity represents the triumph of life, love and passion. The main legend that explains Holi tells us about Vishnu, one of the three major gods in Hinduism, who killed Hiranyakashipu’s young brother.

Beside his desire for revenge, the evil Hiranyakashipu wanted to govern the skies, earth and the world of darkness. Equipped with almighty power, Hirayakashipu felt undefeatable and commanded all mortals to worship only him. His son, Prahalad, opposed his view and remained loyal only to Vishnu.

At a moment of uncontrolled anger, the cruel tyrant decided to kill his son with the help of his sister Holika known for her fireproof superpower. A pyre was lit and Holika sat on it, crushing her nephew, Prahalad, underneath her.

Surprisingly, with the generous help of Vishnu, Prahalad escaped the fire unharm­ ed, while Holika the evil was burnt to ashes. The evil Hiranyakashipu was killed eventually by the good lord Vishnu, and that is the message of the triumph of good over evil. Holika’s legend is restored annually by costumed actors, and many bonfires are lit to symbolize the elimination of evil spirits.

THE COLOR OF KRISHNA AND RADHA Holi is celebrated at the end of the winter, on the last day of the month Phalgan.

Phalgan in the Hindu calendar coincides with the period in between mid-February and mid-March. Festivities commence on the evening before Holi, with bonfire rituals called Holika Dahan. Large crowds gather around the bonfires and embark on services, glorifying the burning of Holika, the source of evil, and hoping for the elimination of all evil as was done by Vishnu.

In Braj County in Uttar Pradesh State, the Almighty God according to Hinduism is Krishna. The source of Holi celebrations revolves around his image and his beloved, Radha. Krishna means in Sanskrit, dark blue and the legend tells us that as a baby he developed dark skin, caused by poisonous milk from his nursemaid, Putana.

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Amazing India From a young age, Krishna rejected his dark skin, his main fear was that the light-skinned Radha and her girlfriends would reject his courting. One day Krishna shared his frustration with his mother. How unjust nature was, creating Radha so beautiful and light skinn­­ed while he was dark and not attractive. To calm him down, Krishna’s mother advised him to color Radha’s face in a variety of colors. Equipped with a mischievous mood, Krishna visited Radha unexpectedly and smeared her face with intense colors, so that she would look like him. Over the years this legend evolved into a popular tradition, sweeping the whole country to a carnival of color spraying and water jets called Pichkaris, which symbolize the total eternal love of Krishna to Radha.

WHERE TO CELEBRATE HOLI The Holi celebration is practiced all over India, Nepal and even in some western countries such as the United Kingdom and the USA. However, it is recommended to experience the celebrations in the northern part of Uttar Pradesh in the villages of Mathura and Vrindavan, Nandgaon, Barsana, located about 50 km north of Agra and 145 km southeast of Delhi.

Krishna was born in Mathura and grew up in Vrindavan. That is why the celebrations, parades and happiness in these villages are the greatest and go on for the entire week. In the towns of Barsana and Nandgaon, the festival starts prior to Holi and is unique to these places. It is called Lathmar Holi which means, the act where women beat with sticks.

FESTIVAL DO’S AND DON’TS Holi 2019 will be held on March 21st, meaning that the bonfire cele­­brations commence the evening before. The Holi events in Uttar Pradesh State will start a week in advance, at around March 15. Exact schedule and locations will be advertised on the internet; however, there’s a bit of confusion in online advertising. Therefore, it is highly recommended to double check the exact dates with local tourism boards.

HOLI IS A VERY POWERFUL EXPERIENCE AND IT IS IMPORTANT TO KEEP IN MIND A FEW SAFETY RULES: 1. Holi celebrations commence in the morning and go on until late afternoon. In some places, the stores and restaurants are closed.

It is therefore advisable to stock up on essential supplies—food in particular.

2. During the festival, it is customary to wear white clothi­ng so that the color spray will clearly be visible. Normally it can be purchased in local stores a day before. Chances are that the clothes will get wet and somewhat transparent, therefore it is best to wear an additional layer beneath.

3. Places, where Holi is celebrated, are packed with local and foreign tourists. It is advisable to reserve accom­modation well in advance.

4. When going out to the streets, it is advisable to carry minimal items, well wrapped in a waterproof bag and an emphasis on expensive cameras and smartphones. For personal safety during the powder blasting keep your mouth closed, head covered and eyes protected with glasses.

5. Enjoy yourselves but note the local celebrants. This instruction applies to all genders, but female tourists are a primary target for harassment during Holi. Many locals drink alcoholic beverages and some consume cannabis, which can lead to wild behavior. That doesn’t mean every­­one behaves that way; on the contrary, most men behave appropriately, but this is a day prone to trouble. When going out to the streets, women should be accompanied by trusted men.

Stay attentive and follow your gut feeling.

About the author Dr. Gilad Fiskus is an expert in culture photography around the world. You can check out more of his photos at www.fiskus-photos.com.

Take the most colorful vacation of your life and experience culture and celebration in New Delhi.

WOW air will start flying to New Delhi, India in December 2018. Find your New Delhi flight at wowair.com.

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A WARM WELCOME Fur store and workshop Feldur is a family run fur brand that specializes in design and production of high quality fur products.

The shop and workshop is located in the heart of ReykjavĂ­k where you will find a wide collection of fur products. Inside you can also see the furrier at work, altering and repairing old fur coats and making new products.

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Store and Workshop | Snorrabraut 56, 105 ReykjavĂ­k | Collection and online shop www.feldur.is

Adventures in Italy

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Foodie bolt holes in the EmiliaRomagna region Italy is about detail—the cuffs, the collars and the positioning of buttons on a garment.

It’s also about tradition, the gargoyles, the quiet crevices and moss-softened corners, the grandness, and piety of old stone, and of course, food—really good food.

by Cindy-Lou Dale

D

riving through Italy’s storied countryside it became evident that being a European, demands much of its citizens. You need to drive a small car, be designer label conscious, live in an ancient town filled with cavernous and gothic cathedrals where your little home is buried under roses, or in an apartment where washing hangs like banners between balcon­ies. And, it goes without saying, you must love soccer and supercars.

On route to Parma, I encounter gothic cathedrals, medieval towns and ancient village—each with a network of cobbled alleyways filled with delis. I bypass the second-rate tourist trap eateries in the cities and instead seek out genuinely affordable gourmet bolt holes loved by the locals.

CHEESE, BREAD AND WINE

Just 30km north of Parma is Antica Corte Palla­ vicina, a grand 15th-century palace in Poles­ine.

Once owned by Giuseppe Verdi, the palace, now turned boutique hotel-come-cook school, is argua­ bly one of the most unique in Italy.

Adjacent to the palace and the River Po is Risto­rante Al Cavallino Bianco, a highend restau­rant housed in a character property. The palace provides the majority of Chef Massimo Spigaroli’s raw produce—ParmigianoReggiano cheeses, bread, salamis and wine. Chef Massimo’s all-time classic tortelli stuffed with creamy ricotta and bitter greens is a local favorite, so too, is his Semi­freddoa—nutty ice cream cake. This intimate restaurant is a gastronomic must-dine; and on a chilly night, after feasting at one at one of Italy’s finest restaurants, there’s nothing more indulgent than returning to a hotel room glowing in a soft yellow light emanating from the log fire.

Here rural Italian tables groan with the pleasures of traditional tasty food merged with modest roots and a cultured gastronomy.

WHAT PORTION CONTROL? I blast off towards the medieval mountain village of Compiano, found at the foot of the centuriesold Castello di Compiano. It’s chocolate-box quaint­ness within a network of narrow cobbled streets filled with old-timers gossiping in sculpted doorways of shops where cheeses the size of car tires are sold and where strings of sausages are hanging in the windows and slices of smoked ham lie stacked in pink piles. The bakery’s window showcases a delirium of marzipan fruits, hyper­ ventilating cream cakes and other frothy delights.

My lunch date is at La Vecchia, right on the cobbled village piazza. After taking in the views of the valley,

I enter the restaurant which is a little temple of great food and ambiance complete with light music of a refined nature and the tink of cutlery on china and of ice water being carefully poured. I feast on chestnut gnocchi with ricotta created by Chef Peppino Biolzi, who then went on to create a local favorite— Tagliolini ai funghi porcini—homemade pasta with nut sauce. A luscious quantity appears before me.

A ROYAL AFFAIR The accommodation at Castello di Compiano is unique too. In recent years HRH Prince Albert II of Monaco slept in the castle. In fact, it’s said the Grimaldi’s (Monaco’s royal family), have their roots here. The suites are all bespoke—some boasting original 16th-century fireplaces, wooden floors, ceiling and doors, complete with royal crest. A marble plate hung on the wall denotes all the royal families that have inhabited the castle since 800AD. To experience arguably the world’s best pasta, I’m heading to the Pedroni family’s balsamic vinegar vineyard in Modena where their busy restaurant, Osteria di Rubbiara is filled with noisy locals. The food, lovingly prepared by Senyora Pedroni and her daughter, is rustic and hearty; the pasta, light, delicate and buttery, is served family style by Señor Italo and his son, Giuseppe. Be sure to indulge in their wines as well as their homemade liqueurs.

VILLAGE DREAMS I make regular stops in areas of quiet prosperity, all rooted to an ancient past; charming and dreamy Italian villages where houses disappear into treetops. I walk past small shops with their doors and shuttered windows open, and sidewalk cafes were people sit almost motionless with their news­papers and little espressos. Each time I return to my car, I need to thread my way through the crowd that has gathered around it.

Up a high mountain road in the Emilia-Romagna region, is the hamlet of Albareto, a sympathetically restored former peasant village. It takes some finding, but it’s worth every wrong turn as here, Chef Marco Marsili, has tamed the assertive local flavors and finely adapted them to the spirit of the spa and health resort the restaurant is attached to (Borgo Casale). Lavagetti’s sweet Verdi of potatoes, duck sauce and pistachios draw dining enthusiasts from across Italy.

I end my trip here, with new retirement dreams of owning a moss-covered cottage somewhere near a good eatery, of quiet, unhurried mornings and good wine, and, of course, an aircraft-inspired supercar always near at hand to keep things interesting.

With great food and grand countryside, Italy is the dream, and that dream could become a reality for you, real soon.

WOW air now offers cheap flights to Milan, Italy all year round. Bring your skis along for the ride for an epic winter adventure in the Italian Alps.

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The art of Copenhagen

City of sculpture gardens, monuments, and museums Køpenhavn will always hold a special place in my heart. Here I discovered my favorite band, drank wine at a diner for the first time, had a travel crush, and fell in love with Tivoli. I was sixteen, on tour in Scandinavia, completely clueless, a semi-adult, and having the time of my life. The question isn’t “Why should you go to Copenhagen?” It’s “Why haven’t you gone already?”

by Myla Twillie Photos: iStockphoto.com

T

he Danish capital is one of the most beautiful cities in the world. Steeped in Viking history dating back to the Middle Ages, the coastal city is the heart of Danish culture. Centuries-old art, archi­­tecture, fortifications, castles, royal compounds, and museums are arranged throughout the city and made accessible to all wanderers. With my five-year-old in tow, I set out to rediscover the art of Copenhagen. Our adventure would last for forty-eight short hours. We’d get lost, discover brilliant art, find our path by green pastures, walk through palace ruins, consume sweet delectables and sail the harbor at high tide.

STORYBOOK LANDSCAPES Outstanding urban planning, enchanting park grounds, and decadent art create the most captivating settings throughout the city center. We stepped out of our walletfriendly hotel and into a scene from one of H.C. Andersen’s fairy tales.

Formerly a Viking fishing village, the capital region is a flatland surrounded

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by a network of residential districts. The neighborhoods are beautifully garnished with botanical gardens, public squares and tree-lined promenades. Serving as man-made peaks, spires, towers and the power plant are the only vertical dis­ ruptors. You don’t need a car to explore the city. Copenhagen’s labyrinth of canals, narrow-winding streets and metro service are designed for robust human movement.

Some of the most stunning sights are best accessed on foot.

TIME TRAVEL Gothic stone masonry, cobbled street mosaics and hanging street lamps directed our path through architectural history. Medieval, Renaissance, Rom­ anesque, and 21st-century designs are maintained throughout the regional districts. You can literally walk through time in Copenhagen. Missing our intended bus stop for a canal tour, we tried retracing the bus route starting along the outer sidewalk of Kastellet, the stunning star fortress. Built in the early 1600s, the former fortification includes a park, sculpture garden, windmill, lakes and

Steeped in Viking history dating back to the Middle Ages, the coastal city is the heart of Danish culture.

tons of beauty as far as the eye can see.

Continuing southeast, we strolled into the 18th-cent­ury preserved municipality of Fred­eriks­berg. The posh neighborhood is known for green spaces, village living, sidewalk cafes, and Neoclassicism/ Baroque architecture. We passed Frederik’s Church just as the morning sun kissed the marble dome.

Completing the Golden Circle

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Issue five 105

The art of Copenhagen

At some point, I lost track of the bus route and my navigation took us on yet another detour past the Royal Danish Theatre. Although I managed to confuse the spires of Church of Our Lady with Børsen, we were only 1.5 kilometers from our embarkation for the harbor tour. Once onboard, we sailed from the 17th-century stock exchange to the 21st-century’s fantastical Copenhagen Opera House. The impressive, modern building sits on the shoreline just opposite the main castle of the Amalienborg Palace compound.

Copenhagen’s parade of architectural design is like a living museum.

STREET ART Our tour included a sighting of The Little Mermaid. Words can’t describe what it’s like to see in person something you’ve read in a book and seen in countless web galleries. My little one could not believe how tiny she was, nor could he reason why we were braving such frigid temperatures to see her. To say Copenhagen’s water­front in November was brisk is an under­­­state­ ment. However, even with the Baltic Sea chill, we enjoyed Copenhagen with its cele­­bration of antiquities and the presence of art in everyday life. The city is replete with public art on full exhibition. Statues, fountains, and monuments fill the squares, while sculpture goblins and spires adorn brick structures that are themselves great works of art. Without even trying, a walk is a magical experience. Following the locals, we made the Glyptotek Garden our shortcut from the main drag to our hotel, which was nestled in the residential area behind the museum. The garden is home to the iconic sculpture cast of the Thinking Man along with other life-capturing works.

Town Hall Square, prominently located on Hans Christian Andersen Boulevard, faces

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the main entrance of Tivoli Gardens. The square is home to the gold-ornamented Copenhagen City Hall building, the Dragon Fountain, and a host of outdoor events.

We stumbled onto a football pre-game celebration which meant plenty of beer, games, food and good times for everyone, even us curious passersby.

NORDIC DINING There’s a lot to discover in the Nordic cuis­ ine and Copenhagen does it well. From sidewalk bistros and local breweries to the Michelin Star restaurants, there is plenty of good grub to go around. Our first order of business was to get a Danish in Denmark from a Dane! There are no words other than WOW, book your ticket and have one!

If great art has a taste or flavor, it’s defi­ nitely a Danish Danish! The best part, you don’t even have to go to a fancy bakery for a mouthwatering pastry. We stopped in at a convenience store and grabbed a bag of the freshest, oven-hot, melt in your mouth delights. The Danish also know beer. While I don’t usually drink beer, I made sure to sample local favorites, relying on my serv­ ers to guide me. I must admit, I enjoyed every sip of the journey.

At times dining with a little one may be a pain, but you can find a happy medium in central Copenhagen; Hint, hint—It’s in a pint glass. Surprisingly my favorite meal was breakfast. Our hotel hosted a traditional Scandinavian breakfast—fresh meats, vegetables, grains, and CHEESE! The Danes have given the world cultural treasures like Legos, fairy tales, amusement parks and dangerously yummy desserts. However, what’s most amazing about Copenhagen is the sustainability of past cultural influences in present day living and the city’s bright, happy future.

Danish Danishes, good beer and great works of art await you in Denmark’s capital.

WOW air offers cheap flights to Copenhagen every day of the year, all year round.

www.naturebaths.is #myvatnnaturebaths Issue five 107

A cheesy tour of Europe

The atmospheric town of Richmond in Swaledale is one of the main towns in cheese making country.

PHOTO CREDIT: Andrew Marshall.

Cheese,

glorious cheese Andrew Marshall takes us on a cheesy tour around Europe’s best regions for this dairy delight.

Gastro-tourism is big business now. It seems many of us are no longer just satisfied with visiting well-worn cities and sites, and we’re taking the requisite Instagram photos to prove it. Now we want something else from our journeys, an authentic experience that isn’t just about seeing, but smelling and touching and tasting too. The cornerstone of this epicurean exploration movement is the lure of discovering ­delicacies at their source. Perhaps no other food lends itself to such consideration—and adoration—as cheese. From gargantuan wheels of Parmesan to chunks of rustic Wensleydale to creamy, oozy Camembert, tracking cheese’s journey from paddock to plate transports the traveler to bucolic country idylls and through centuries of tradition and practice. It also provides ample opportunity to sample the wares!

by Andrew Marshall

ENGLAND – The Yorkshire Dales The Yorkshire Dales is a region of time­­ less beauty symbolized by limestone walls that climb its brooding hills, end­­­lessly varying patterns of grey against green marching up impossibly steep slopes until they disappear into the heather-cloaked moorland on the summits. It played a starring role in the drama of the 2014 Tour de France, but there’s so much more to the area than cycleways and scenery.

For centuries people have been churning cheeses here; it’s thought that the origins

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of local cheese making lie with Cistercian monks who arrived from Normandy and settled in the local abbeys in the 11th century. They passed on their techniques to the farmers of Swaledale and Wensleydale and a local industry was born. Despite the steady decline in bespoke cheese making during the 20th century, there’s been a resurgence of interest in local handcrafted cheese around here in recent years.

The cornerstone of this epicurean exploration movement is the lure of discovering delicacies at their source. Perhaps no other food lends itself to such consideration—and adoration—as cheese.

Andy Swinscoe cuts some cheese inside The Courtyard Dairy in Settle. Photo Credit: Kate Moseley

A fine example is The Swaledale Cheese Company perched high above the attractive market town of Richmond. The signature Swaledale cheese was originally made with the milk of Swaledale sheep or goats

and it wasn’t until the 17th century that dairy cows were introduced.

Now the recipe and methods for both its Traditional Swaledale and Swaledale Ewe’s Cheese are protected and accredited with PDO (Protected De­signa­tion of Origin) status. Its Swaledale Blue was a Super Gold winner at the presti­gious World Cheese Awards.

Cutting & blocking the cheese in the Wensleydale Creamery, Hawes. Photo Credit: Wensleydale Creamery.

A selection of cheeses from Shepherds Purse.

PHOTO CREDIT: Shepherds Purse.

Cheese grader at work, Wensleydale Creamery, Hawes.

From Richmond, head west through the quintessential Swaledale villages of Gunnerside, Muker and Thwaite, over the wild, irresistibly named Buttertubs Pass into Wensleydale and Hawes, home to the Wensleydale Creamery, where this mild and creamy cheese with a honeyed aftertaste and a crumbly, flaky texture is still made to a time-honored recipe. Watch the cheese being made, then visit the shop to pick up a sustaining slab of Yorkshire’s finest—perhaps an Oak Smoked Wensleydale or one combined with apricots or cranberries. For something different try Wensleydale, the Yorkshire way, with a slice of apple pie or fruitcake.

Look out for other Yorkshire cheeses­— Shepherd’s Purse of Thirsk make Harrogate and Yorkshire Blue, and the Swaledale Cheese Company in Richmond produces a fine array of cheeses including Traditional Swaledale (made from cow’s milk) and

a cheese flavored with Theakston’s Old Peculier ale. Not to be missed is the award-winning Courtyard Dairy in Settle, run by Andy Swinscoe, a specialist cheese monger with an apprenticeship in affinage (cheese aging) in France.

This specialist cheese shop champions small independent farmers and stocks a range of unusual and exquisite artisan farmhouse cheeses, like the tangy Dale End Cheddar from Botton Creamery near Whitby, and the cloth-bound Richard III Wensleydale made to a traditional pre-war recipe

by Andy Ridley in Richmond.

In the half-light of a cheese house near Parma, a Consortium master checks the progress of the Parmesan cheese for aging. PHOTO CREDIT: Karin Riikonen

ITALY – Parma, Emilia-Romagna Parma, a quintessential Italian city in the northern Emilia-Romagna region, has a rich culinary tradition: the cheeses, hams, salamis, handmade pasta, balsamic vinegar and wines made in the area are among the world’s most sought-after, making this a perfect getaway for the gourmet traveler. But undoubtedly, the most famous product of the province is Parmigiano Reggiano, better known to spaghetti Bolognese lovers everywhere as parmesan cheese. This “king of Italian cheeses” has been in existence for around 700 years and is so valuable that it was once accepted as currency.

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Issue five 109

A cheesy tour of Europe

Farm building on the outskirts of Parma. PHOTO CREDIT: Karin Riikonen

Normandy cows graze in an apple orchard in the Pays d’Auge. The cows supply the milk for cheese making and the apples are the important ingredient for making calvados, cider and pommeau. Please Credit: Atout France.

The beginnings of Parmesan cheese in a cheese house near Parma.

Milk from the area is skimmed and then heated in big copper vats and mixed by a giant whisk. PHOTO CREDIT: Karin Riikonen

Dotting the hills and valleys around Parma are the dairies and cheese houses where the prized wheels are made by a method little changed over the cent­uries. A visit to a cheese house is a fascinating day out, observing the cheesemakers gathering the curd into cheesecloth and being dwarfed by the thousands of golden wheels in the warehouse.

The Parmigiano-Reggiano Cheese Consortium conducts guided tours to cheese making dairies in the area free of charge.

What makes Parmigiano Reggiano so outstanding is its long and careful aging process, with each wheel of cheese aged for an average of 24 months, during which time important changes take place that gives the cheese its distinctive flavor, texture, aroma and nutritional value. At some point to­ w­ards the end of each Parmi­­giano’s maturation, professional tast­­ers take to each cheese with a small hammer. An expert ear can pick up faint yet distinctive hollow sounds, a sign of faults or cracks in the cheese. If a wheel doesn’t meet a particular standard, it’s rejected.

While here you absolutely must sample the genuine article (look for the distinctive Parmigiano Reggiano mark­ings burnt into the rind) because, although copied the world over, nothing even comes close to the real thing. Eaten with a drizzle of olive oil or a few drops of balsamic vinegar, it’s a simple ­pleas­ure of almost regal proportions.

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For a closer insight into cheese-making, visit Fromagerie Graindorge, a cheese producer in Livarot that offers free tours and tastings. On display are old cheese-making implements, milk churns, cheese molds and a re­­ plica of the world’s largest Livarot cheese, measuring around one meter in diameter; it was made from 1165 liters of milk and shared between the very satisfied residents of the town on a special fiesta day in 2008."

FRANCE – Pays d’Auge, Normandy Normandy’s Pays d’Auge region is a picturesque landscape of small villag­es, rolling meadows dotted with grazing cattle, russet-colored apple orchards and half-timbered farmsteads; a land where creamy cheeses rule and a quartet of France’s finest are made: Camembert, Pont l’Évêque, Livarot and Pavé d’Auge.

Display inside the Graindorge cheese fabriqué in Livarot. PHOTO CREDIT: Paul Marshall.

With its oozy golden-yellow center, creamy-white rind and buttery flavor reminiscent of wild mushrooms, the circular Camembert is the signature Normandy cheese. Its origins are relatively young in cheese-making terms: Marie Harel, a local farmer’s wife is said to have invented it during the time of the French Revolution, selling it in the market of Vimoutiers (where excellent farmhouse Camem­ bert is still available today). Folklore has it that one of Marie’s descendants took advantage of meeting Napoleon III, presenting him with a Camembert and thereby assuring the future of this most French of cheeses.

While Camembert is a relative new­ comer, soft cheese has in fact been made in Normandy since the 11th century. Two lesser-known and much older cheeses are Pont l’Évêque, an

uncooked, unpressed cow’s milk cheese that is square in shape, and Livarot, an ancient and noble cheese that dates back more than 700 years, originating with the monks. During the 19th century, Livarot became the go-to cheese in Normandy and was dubbed “the workman’s meat.” One of the most complicated cheeses to make, it sits in a cellar for up to six weeks and the rind is periodically was­hed with lightly-salted water.

For a closer insight into cheesemaking, visit Fromagerie Graindorge, a cheese producer in Livarot that offers free tours and tastings. On display are old cheese-making implements, milk churns, cheese molds and a re­­plica of the world’s largest Livarot cheese, measuring around one meter in diameter; it was made from 1165 liters of milk and shared between the very satisfied residents of the town on a special fiesta day in 2008.

In one of the final stages of making a livarot cheese, each one is bound by hand with 5 strips of a traditional reed. Because of these five imprinted strips on its rind, livarot is often referred to as the ‘ colonel.’ PHOTO CREDIT: Paul Marshall.

Livarot cheeses inside the Graindorge cheese fabriqué awaiting the next stage of production.

PHOTO CREDIT: Paul Marshall.

After observing the stages of cheese production, sample some of the cheeses, beautifully displayed in color­ful boxes inside the shop. Keep an eye out for Le Grain d’Orge with Calvados (local apple brandy). During

Manager Elisa Leveau talks about the importance of the Normande breed of cattle on a tour of the Graindorge cheese fabriqué.PHOTO CREDIT: Paul Marshall.

matur­ation, the rind is care­­fully washed in brine and then brush­ed with Calvados so it gradually be­ come­s infused with the full flavor of apples—a delicious fromage with a soft, golden texture.

THE ICELANDIC

PENIS MUSEUM We

Dicks!

WOW air offers cheap flights to Europe from the USA and Canada all year round.

But don’t just fly there… rent a car (we have those too at cars.wowair.com) and drive around to really experience this wonderfully weird continent.

This might sound cheesy but WOW! Get yourself to Europe and taste all of this golden goodness right now! Or, you know, wait awhile, that’s what a cheese would do.

The Icelandic Phallological Museum is one of the most informative, humorous, and unusual museums in the world.

The world famous “Penis museum” in Reykjavik is the only museum in the world to contain a collection of phallic specimens belonging to all the various types of mammal found in a single country. The founder, Sigurður Hjartarson started the collection 40 years ago and made it first accessible to the public in 1997 with the opening of the museum.

The Icelandic Phallological Museum contains a collection of more than 220 penises and penile parts belonging to all the land and sea mammals that can be found in Iceland.

There is also a foreign section that holds more than forty examples and a folklore section that has some twenty pieces on display. All in all, more than 380 biological examples. In addition to the biological section of the museum, visitors can view a collection of about 350 artistic oddments and practical utensils related to the museum’s chosen theme.

The museum is in a 250 square meter location on the upper part of Reykjavik’s main shopping street, Laugavegur, only a 10 minutes walk from the city’s centre.

There is a souvenir corner with a small exclusive selection of things related to the museum’s theme.

Seeing is believing!

No pornography or offensive material in the museum.

Laugavegur 116 • 105 Reykjavík • Tel.: (+354) 561-6663 (+354) 690 3774• phallus@phallus.is • www.phallus.is Opening hours: Summer: Daily from10 am - 6 pm • Winter: Daily from 11 am -6 pm • Next to Hlemmur bus station Issue five 111

WOW destinations

You want more?

WOW! We’ve got so many destinations we don’t have room for articles about all of them. WOW air now has over 30 destinations and will continue to add more as well as increase flight frequency to top destinations such as London, Paris and California. You can check out all our flight destinations and low fares at wowair.com.

WOW air offers cheap flight to Dallas-Forth Worth, Texas.

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ALICANTE

DUBLIN

PARIS

Warm up by the Mediterranean Sea and taste the best of Spain.

Dublin has become a modern European city without losing the grip on its Irish roots and just a stone’s throw away is the spectacular Irish nature.

The city of lights sparkles with art, culture and culinary delights.

Experience the passionate Paris and all it has to offer. Just say Oui!

WOW air offers cheap flights to Alicante with available connections from USA and Canada, 2-4 times a week* from April to October.

WOW air offers cheap flights to Paris from USA, Canada and Iceland every day of the week*, all year round.

WOW air flies to Dublin every day of the week*, all year round with available connections from USA and Canada.

PITTSBURGH

DÜSSELDORF

Pittsburgh is fast becoming the city everyone is talking about. With a charming small town feel and friendly atmosphere this big city is a travel destination on the rise.

This great city on the Rhine is famous for its art and culture, luxury fashion and lifestyle.

BARCELONA Barcelona truly is the perfect destination; tasty tapas, seaside promenades and mind-blowing architecture.

WOW air flies to Düsseldorf, Germany from Iceland, with available connections from USA and Canada, 3 times a week* during the summer season.

Getting there is the easy part.

WOW air offers 2-4 flights a week* to Barcelona from Iceland, with available connections from USA and Canada.

Hop onboard. WOW air offers cheap flights to Berlin, Germany from USA, Canada and Iceland, every day of the week*, all year round.

FRANKFURT

LYON

Frankfurt am Main, aka “Mainhattan” is Germany’s most cosmopolitan city but that doesn’t mean history isn’t appreciated there. When you visit Frankfurt don’t miss out on the Mosel Valley for a taste of Germany’s best wines. Prost!

Experience the gastronomic capital of France with all its history and vibrant cultural scene.

WOW air offers cheap flights to Frankfurt am Main from USA, Canada and Iceland, every day of the week*, all year round.

GRAN CANARIA

BOSTON The city that’s famous for Cheers and good shopping.

WOW air offers cheap flights to Boston from around Europe all days of the week* all year round.

BRUSSELS A trendy hot-spot with a wide range of tourist attractions, Brussels, Belgium is a perfect destination for a fun family vacation or a short city break. Known for fine chocolate, tasty waffles, premium beer and mussels this cool destination will surprise you.

WOW air offers cheap flights to Brussels 4-7 days a week,* all year round.

The City of Angels, also known as L.A. is eclectic, progressive, trendy, laid-back and retro all at once. Great beaches, Rodeo Drive and famous people, need we say more?

WOW air offers cheap flights to Pittsburgh from Europe 4 times a week*.

WOW air offers cheap flights to Los Angeles, California 3-5 times a week*.

BERLIN The capital of cool and quirky is one of our most popular destinations.

With history on every corner, a nightlife scene that truly lives up to its name and great shopping for everyone, Berlin won’t let you down.

LOS ANGELES

The city of Las Palmas in Gran Canaria is warm all year round so it’s a perfect destination for both the chilly and the chill.

WOW air flies to Lyon 4 times a week* during the summer, (from May to September 2019) with available connections from USA and Canada.

NEW YORK The most famous city in the world just got a little closer. The Big Apple is perfect for romantic getaways as well as family vacations filled with fun activities.

Get into a New York State of mind. WOW air offers cheap flights to New York’s Newark airport, every day of the week*, all year round.

SALZBURG Looking for that perfect winter destination? European ski resorts are known for being budget friendly and the Austrian Alps’ best ski resorts are just a short drive from Salzburg Airport.

Pack your skis; WOW air offers weekly* flights to Salzburg from Iceland from the end of December to the beginning of March 2019.

WOW air offers weekly* flights to Gran Canaria from December through April.

LONDON London has been on our schedule from the beginning and for good reason. This sprawling metropolis is a popular destination all over the world. It’s sort of like a rite of passage for travelers; you have to visit at least once. And if you’ve already been there you can go the other way from Gatwick airport and visit the beautiful Brighton.

WOW air now offers cheap flights to London Gatwick every day of the week*, all year round and also to London Stansted from May to September 2019.

DALLAS-FORTH WORTH Big houses, big hats, big cars, big portions and big ideas …

Welcome to Dallas, Texas!

WOW air offers cheap flight to Dallas-Forth Worth, Texas, from around Europe 3 times a week* during the summer season.

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WOW destinations

ST. LOUIS From the world renowned symphony orchestra and the magnificent Gateway Arch monument to the home of the Budweiser and the Cardinals, St. Louis might surprise you. Meet your there?

WOW air offers cheap flights to St. Lois, Missouri, from Europe 3-4 times a week*.

STOCKHOLM The capital of Sweden is a city of contrasts, an urban paradise full of fun and history but with a relaxed and modern atmosphere.

WOW air flies to Stockholm Arlanda airport, from USA, Canada and Iceland, offering 3-4 flights a week*, all year round.

TENERIFE Relaxing on a tropical island sounds like a dream and Tenerife is a dream come true.

WOW air offers 2-3 flights a week* to Tenerife Sur from Iceland all year round.

TEL AVIV For sunny fun and great food, Tel Aviv is the city to visit. Known for its lively and vibrant nightlife, welcoming and relaxed atmosphere and amazing history and architecture, the city of Tel Aviv will be a pleasant surprise.

Get ready for a whole new experience. WOW air flies to Tel Aviv, Israel, three to 4 times a week*, during the summer season.

WARSAW The capital of Poland has some historic charisma and is a great destination if you’re on a budget.

WOW air offers flights to Warsaw from Iceland, with available connections from USA and Canada, 2 times a week* during the summer season.

The WOW Stopover When flying between North America and Europe take advantage of our WOW Stopover option.

The WOW Stopover allows you to visit Iceland on your way to your destination. It’s kind of like getting two vacations instead of one.

Find out more at wowair.com

* Note that the availability of connecting flights between USA and Europe/Asia may vary depending on the flight frequency to each city. Our flight schedule is subject to change.

WOW air connects London, Edinburgh, Dublin, Berlin, Düsseldorf, Frankfurt, Copenhagen, Amsterdam, Brussels, Paris, Lyon, Stockholm, Alicante, Barcelona, Las Palmas, Tenerife, Milan, Warsaw, Tel Aviv and New Delhi to New York, Boston, Chicago, Dallas-Fort Worth, Detroit, Washington, D.C., Pittsburgh, Orlando, St. Louis, Los Angeles and San Francisco in the US and Toronto and Montréal in Canada.

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JERSEY & BEANIE 11.990 kr

This and that …

mostly this

by Evan Lewis / Photos: iStockphoto.com and from private collections

Lost but now found Baejarins Beztu, Reykjavik’s premier hot dog stand, has finally moved back to its original location at the corner of Tryggvagata and Posthusstraeti. The re-migration took place after 13 painful months across the street, in front of the Raddison Blu Hotel, where it was temporarily placed for construction purposes.

While away, Reykjavik entered a state of panic and uproar as tourists and residents alike scurried frantically around the city looking to get their fix of the original Icelandic pylsur. Ok, not really but all of Reykjavik can now relax and tourists of the city can rest assured that this esteemed institution, which has been decorating hot dogs since 1937, is back where Google Maps says it is.

People visiting Raufarhólshellir, one of Iceland’s longest caves. In the future we will all be living beneath the ground on another planet.

Iceland space age A group of scientists at 4th Planet Logistics has launched a new initiative in Iceland to prepare for humankind’s migration into space. In cooperation with several Icelandic organizations, the U.S.-based space logistics start-up has chosen the Stefanshellir Lava Tunnel in West-Iceland as the site of a subterranean research facility that will serve as the launching pad for a project that explores the concept of using caves as primary habitat locations on the Moon and Mars. The primary benefits of inhabiting caves are that they serve as a natural shield from radiation and storms and drastically reduce the cost of having to transport shelter to another planet. The team at 4th Planet Logistics determined that the Icelandic lava tunnels would best suit the project’s demands as life hardly thrives in them and their maze-like structure makes it ideal for trying out how to map caves with robots. It seems that Iceland will play a key role as the world enters the new space age.

Not even a new location could come between the people of Reykjavik and their beloved hot dogs.

Auto immune city With a keen eye towards what’s trending in other Euro­­­pean cities, The Reykjavik City Council has passed a measure that will permanently close Laugavegur and Bankastraeti, downtown Reykja­­­ vik’s two main arteries, to all non-pedestrian traffic. The streets will be turned into walkways and opened to pedestrians, bikers, strollers, and skaters all year round. The legislation was unanimously approved by the city council, along with a proposal that calls for a redesigning of the streets in order to promote safety, quality of life, and accessibility for all. Reykjavik has dabbled in shorter-term street closures before, barring cars on a stretch of streets in its city center for special occa­­sions. A recent poll conducted for the city of Reykjavik shows that a majority of residents are in favor of pedestrian streets with the opposition being strongest among merchants and real estate owners.

Iceland’s fossil fuel phase-out The Icelandic government has unveiled plans to fight climate change and make Iceland fully

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carbon-neutral by the year 2040.

The state aims to increase the number of electric vehicles imported and sold in the country, as one of the major endeavors outlined in the plan is a complete ban on diesel and petrol vehicles by the year 2030. Exemptions will be put in place, however, that would allow for diesel and petrol fueled vehicles to be used in remote areas, where necessary.

Better public transportation and the creation of more cycling and walking paths are also deemed necessary for the government’s new plan of action.

NO NEED TO WAIT FOR YOUR BAGS if you do what the locals do and pick up some duty free goods in the arrival store before your luggage www.dutyfree.is

THE DUTY FREE ALLOWANCE IS 6 UNITS OF ALCOHOL, ANY WAY YOU LIKE IT Use the duty free allowance calculator on our website, www.dutyfree.is, to determine how to make the best use of your allowance.

Issue five 117

This and that …

mostly this

by Evan Lewis / Photos: iStockphoto.com and from private collections

Winter wonderland Not only is winter coming, but a new ice-art gallery is opening on Laugavegur that will surely freeze your ears off—as if things couldn’t get any cooler in the world’s northernmost capital. Magic Ice Reykjavik is part of a Norwegian franchise that has locations in different countries around the world. The museum will feature ice-carvings inspired by the Icelandic sagas and Viking history, and sculpted by world-renowned artists. The chic venue will come complete with a full-length ice bar, and a restaurant serving local food. Can you imagine drinking an ice-cold beer at an ice bar in an ice museum in Iceland!? Magic Ice Reykjavik plans to open at the beginning of the year.

The Magic Ice museum is of course not ready but it we imagine the bar could look something like this.

Carnivore carnival Carnivores prepare to celebrate—a new restaurant has opened in downtown Reykjavik that truly is a meat-lover’s paradise. Reykjavik Meat boasts a drool-inducing menu that showcases the Icelandic meat scene as well as an extensive selection of wines from vineyards all over the world. With meat selections inspired by local butcher, Jón Örn at Reykjavik’s KjötKompaní, tourists and locals alike can be assured of an authentic experience. They also serve a collection of “Sashi steaks,” from Danish meat producers Jn Meat, which recently won an award for World’s Best Steak at the 2018 World Steak Challenge. While they do not offer mac and cheese as a side dish, they still have a savory selection of accompaniments including foie gras and bone marrow. Don’t worry there are also vegetarian options.

Photo: Allan Sigurdórsson

Icelandic oysters make their debut!

Photo: Björn Árnason

A new restaurant in downtown Reykjavik, Skelfiskmarkaðurinn (The Shellfish Market) opened its doors in August and is the first restaurant in the city with a menu that focuses mainly on shellfish—specifically, Icelandic oysters. Until now, Iceland and oysters have rarely been used in the same sentence. The frigid subarctic waters surrounding the country are generally not conducive to the breeding of this saltwater delicacy. However, success has been found in the quaint northern town of Húsavík, where the Gulf Stream warms its waters to a temperature that allows for the oyster’s growth and reproduction.

While the Icelandic oyster is still in its infant stage, Skelfiskmarkaðurinn is the launching pad from which it will be introduced to the world. Though its novelty is surely appealing, don’t let it draw your attention away from the other delectable savories and sweets offered on their menu.

Yes, we know it’s a tacky stock photo but it was just too fitting not to include.

Quality of life matters Type in the coordinates for social progress and you will arrive at Iceland. A new assessment on welfare and quality of life around the world, spearheaded by the Social Progress Imperative Agency, has ranked Iceland 2nd out of the 146 nations evaluated this year (only behind Norway by .02 points).

Of the 51 indicators used to measure social progress, Iceland scored the highest in 12, including tolerance tow­­ards homosexuals and minority groups, infant and maternal health, and ac­cess to proper nutrition. Although Ice­land scored well overall, the country performe­d poorly in the environmental protection category. Perhaps, if the government were to have invested more of their efforts in matters that deal with safeguarding the environment, Iceland would have come out on top.

The perfect souvenir Recently opened, Gallery Korka is a beautiful art gallery on Skólavörðustígur 4a where 12 local artists and crafts folk collaborate to sell their designs and art.

From unique oil paintings, sculptures and ceramics to jewelry, wooden crafts, photography and wool, this is the place to go if you’re looking for that one souvenir to remember your visit to Iceland by or find the perfect one-of-akind gift for a loved one.

Although Korka is not really a souvenir shop but an art gallery you can be sure that each item sold at Korka has been lovingly made and designed in Iceland, by an Icelander and that they are of the highest quality. This is the chance to take home something completely different and really make your friends jealous that you went to Iceland.

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Issue five 119

This and that …

mostly this

by Evan Lewis / Photos: iStockphoto.com and from private collections

Portraits of the Icelandic nation This year, Icelanders cele­­brate the Centenary of Icelandic independence and sovereignty, 1918-2018. The Icelandic journalist/writer Svava Jónsdóttir had an idea: To write a book where there would be photos of Icelanders born 1918-2018 - one for each year - and where they, except the youngest children of course, would answer one question: What does Iceland mean to you?

Icelanders really dislike putting up warning signs. When they do, however, take note, they really mean it!

Reflections of a Century: Icelanders 1918-2018. Portraits of a Nation is a beautiful book with photos of 101 Icelanders and text in Icelandic and English. In the book there are also a lot of landscape photos taken in Iceland.

Some of the participants are well known for example one of two former presidents of Iceland, the Prime Minister, other politicians, people in the business sector and artists. And of course the models on the book cover are the oldest and youngest participants wearing the traditional national Icelandic costume. She was born in 1918 and he was born in 2018.

Tourist happenings The rise of the tourism industry in Iceland has brought with it several unfortunate incidents involving happy-go-lucky tourists throwing caution to the wind. Recently, a group of tourists in search of the Northern Lights, found themselves stranded on the Reykjavik islet of Grótta. The islet is a hot spot for people looking to see the auroras while in Reykjavik and, though, reachable by foot on low-tide, it becomes an island at hightide. Signs and instructions abound, but, in this case were ignored and the group ended up having to be ferried back to the mainland.

In a separate incident, a tourist was recently cited for illegally camping out in a small house used for birdwatching in Seltjarnarnes. Going to budget-biting

More than just a wasteland Volcanoes. Glaciers. Vikings. Fissures.

Shipwrecks. Murderers. Sheep. Toponomy. Öræfi. A bestseller immediately upon publication and critical smash, sweeping Iceland’s major literary prizes, Öræfi: The Wasteland is European Union Literature Prize-winning Ófeigur Sigurðsson’s English debut, a stunning, audacious, irreverent hymn to the desolation of Iceland’s most isolated region, as bare and perilous as it is alluring. Öræfi: The Wasteland presents the mystery of Bernharður Fingurbjörg, an Austrian toponymist who had come to study the unique Icelandic names for the natural features of Öræfi, a region so barren after a 1362 volcanic eruption that its name literally means “wasteland” in Icelandic.

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extremes, the culprit admitted that he was just trying to save money.

On a more tragic note, a group of tourists stumbled upon a man who had fallen to his death at the popular landmark, Kirkjufell on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula, after being separated from a group of hikers. The site of the accident was in a very steep part of the mountain away from the designated walking path.

Sometimes not heeding instructions can have fatal consequences. Iceland is a country that puts nature on display in all of its rough and raw splendor. Enjoy all of the exhilaration that it has to offer, but by all means stay informed, stay focused, and stay safe.

As the novel opens, Bernharður crawls off the glacier and into the Visitor Center at Skaftafell National Park in southern Iceland, bloody and barely alive. How did he get the severe bite on his leg? Where had he been, and why was he here? Bernharður’s dizzying story of bitter ice storms, wild sheep, death metal, and sinister assailants spans the breadth of Icelandic history, mixing true stories and real people with legends, myths, sagas, and hearsay, all unfolding in the pages of a medical report written by his caretaker: the heroic, oddball veterinarian Dr. Lassi.

All is not what it seems: within Bernharður’s feverish web of secrets lies the troubled volcanic history of the Icelandic psyche wherein, amid forgotten place names and the collision of tradition and modernity, a buried violence dwells.

“This is epic literature.” — Jón Gnarr, former mayor of Reykjavik “Sigurðsson is without a doubt one of the best writers of his generation.” — Fréttablaðið

High Life focuses on a group of miscreants on a mission to reach a black hole in search of an alternate energy source.

Happy nightmares: Robert Pattinson in High Life Fresh from a world premiere at the Toronto International Film Festival, acclaimed French director Claire Denis’ new film, sci-fi drama High Life, boasts a spaceship designed by Olafur Eliasson. Denis, best known for her lauded films including existential Foreign Legion drama Beau Travail (1999), avant-garde vampire flick Trouble Every Day (2001) and more recently White Material (2009) starring the ever brilliant Isabelle Huppert, has made her first English-language film that is also Denis’ foremost foray into science-fiction.

High Life stars Robert Pattinson, of Twilight fame, French icon Juliette Binoche and Mia Goth, who debuted in Lars von Trier’s Nymphomaniac Vol. 2 (2013).

High Life focuses on a group of miscreants on a mission to reach a black hole in search of an alternate energy source.

Danish-Icelandic artist Eliasson, renowned for The Weather Project (2003) at London Tate Modern and Reykjavík’s Harpa concert hall, designed the spacecraft for the film. It is Eliasson’s first work on a feature film and his second collaboration with Denis.

Eliasson and Denis made a short film Contact in 2014 that explored themes of black holes and abstraction. Denis and Eliasson’s mutual fascination for this phenomena is evident in High Life, a story that Denis has been nurturing for 15 years.

High Life opens in November.

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Find out more on www.eastwest.is Issue five 121

Hey

look!

What ’s going on over here?

Quite a lot actually, and if you know where to go you can live each night in Iceland like there’s a full blown festival going on.

by Evan Lewis Photos: From respective events

A movie lover’s paradise Pashn playing at Gaukurinn at Iceland Airwaves 2017. Photo: Ásta Sif Árnadóttir

WHAT: Iceland Airwaves 2018 WHEN: November 7 - November 10 WHERE: Various locations in Reykjavik Each November, Iceland hosts a music festival that permeates the city of Reykjavik, putting its vibrant and healthy music scene on full display. This 4-day sonic block party boasts a tantalizing showcase of local and international musicians. With musical performances all over the capital, discover established and new artists playing in the snug jukes of downtown Reykjavik and in showcase venues around the city. You will find performances in local churches, coffee shops, museums, hostels, as well as the state-of-the-art concert hall, Harpa. Iceland Airwaves features a truly diverse lineup with more than 200 acts from over 30 countries performing in more than 20 venues. This is one of Iceland’s premier events, and you won’t want to miss it!

Located in the heart of downtown Reykjavík, Bíó Paradís is a nonprofit organization run by Iceland’s professional filmmaking guilds. Screening the latest art house releases from all around the world as well as cult films and Icelandic film, it is Iceland’s first and only art house cinema. The theater provides a warm, cozy environment for film lovers of all kinds—both in its three-screen theater and its well-stocked bar.

Events in October and November

icelandairwaves.is

“The Dude,” Lebowski, mistaken for a millionaire.

WHAT: Friday night party screenings WHEN: Every Friday night at 8 PM

WHAT: Farts in Paradis WHEN: Monthly Thursday night screenings at 8 PM

Dancing and singing, disasters and gore! Films everyone needs to see, at least once! All films in English!

These are monthly movie screen­ ings curated by artist Hugleikur Dagsson, where he will screen the best/worst movies throughout history; movies that are so bad that they actually turn out to be amazing! Hugleikur invites a special guest for discussion after each movie.

October 12: The Big Lebowski “The Dude,” Lebowski, mistaken for a millionaire, seeks restitution for his ruined rug and enlists his bowling buddies to help get it.

Celebrate the 20-year anniversary of this fantastic cult-classic from the Coen brothers!

November 9: Muriel’s Wedding A young social outcast in Australia steals money from her parents to finance a vacation where she hopes to find happiness, and perhaps love. A classic romanticcomedy that fits perfectly for a party screening with BFFs!

WHAT: Lighting of the Imagine Peace Tower WHEN: October 9 WHERE: Viðey Island, Reykjavik Conceived by the great visionary and peace advocate, Yoko Ono, the Imagine Peace Tower symbolizes world peace and stands as a memorial to her late husband, John Lennon. The monument features 15 lights converging to form a tower of blue beams that pierce the clouds and light up the sky above. Inscribed on the tower’s base are the words “IMAGINE PEACE” written in 24 different languages.

There is also a wishing well that contains thousands of wishes for world peace collected by Ono in her travels around the world. The light shines from October 9 to December 8, as well as on New Year’s Eve and for the Spring Equinox. Yoko Ono chose Iceland as the home for this work of art because of its eco-friendly policies and dedication to renewable geothermal energy. She worked closely with Reykjavik Energy’s construction of the project and stated that Iceland is the perfect place for it because of the country’s beauty and uniqueness. We agree with her. imaginepeacetower.com

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WHAT: Black Sundays WHEN: Every Sunday night at 8 PM On Black Sundays, Bíó Paradís’ special team of experts screen old cult classics. The program is curated by Hugleikur Dagson the famous cartoonist/comedian, renowned author Sjón and Sigurjón Kjartansson one of Iceland’s bestknown screenwriters/comedian/ musician.

The film of the week is announced on their Facebook page: www.facebook.com/ SvartirSunnudagar

WHAT: The Guilty (Den skyldige) WHEN: New film premieres October 26 A police officer assigned alarm dispatch duty enters a race against time when he answers an emergency call from a kidnapped woman. An extremely gripping Danish thriller that keeps you on the edge of your seat till the very end!

WHAT: Everybody Knows WHEN: New film premieres November 9 Laura returns to her hometown outside Madrid with her two children to attend her sister’s wedding. However, the trip is upset by unexpected events that bring secrets into the open. Penélope Cruz and Javier Bardem star in this mystery-filled movie!

bioparadis.is

Issue five 123

Hey

look!

What’s going on over here?

Quite a lot actually, and if you know where to go you can live each night in Iceland like there’s a full blown festival going on.

WHAT: Iceland Noir WHEN: November 16-18 WHERE: IÐNO Cultural Center, Reykjavik Festivals focusing on crime fiction are be­­ coming increasingly popular and it doesn’t stop in Iceland. For any lover of literature who has an aching desire to explore Ice­­ land’s rising crime fiction landscape, this festival is for you. Events include two full days of interviews and panel discussions with several international crime fiction authors and popular Icelandic writers such as Ragnar Jonasson, Yrsa Sigurðadottir and Lilja Sigurðadottir. There will also be, for the first time ever, a “drunken writers’ panel.”

Happenings will take place throughout the city and an Icelandic Crime Disco Night will also be held on Saturday starting at 8 pm.

Come to see how a country with virtually no crime rate does crime fiction right. icelandnoir.weebly.com

WHAT: Imogen Heap & Guy Sigsworth (Frou Frou) WHEN: October 9 (8 PM) WHERE: Háskólabíó Electronic alt-pop queen, Imogen Heap, will grace the stages of Háskólabíó for the first time along with her musical counterpart Guy Sigsworth. The two began crafting

Icelandic stage art group Marble Crowd will perform “Moving Mountains” at the big stage of the National Theatre. Tickets are available at tix.is.

WHAT: Everybody’s Spectacular International WHEN: November 14-18 WHERE: Various venues in Reykjavik The queen of Icelandic noir and the scariest author on the scene, Yrsa Sigurðardóttir will be at the Iceland Noir. Photo: Sigurjón Ragnar

music together under the moniker “Frou Frou” in 2002, but have since disbanded to go their separate ways musically. In a lucky twist of fate, they have reunited for the first time in 9 years for a world tour that will take them to 40 different cities. If you’re in the area make sure you don’t miss this experimental electronic duo.

Spectacular is an international performance festival that was birthed as a merger of two powerhouse festivals hosted by the city of Reykjavik, LÓKAL International Theater Festival and The Reykjavik Dance Festival. It seeks to bring the general public into discourse with talented artists around

Tickets are available at tix.is

WHAT: Cycle Music and Art Festival – Inclusive Nation WHEN: October 25 - October 28 WHERE: Multiple venues in Reykjavik and Kópavogur This year, Iceland observes its 100th year as a sovereign state.

the topic of contemporary performance. Lasting 5 days, local and international artists converge on the city of Reykjavik to showcase their theater and dance arrangements. This high energy extravaganza boasts an array of discussions, parties, and striking performances for all to enjoy. Expect to see new pieces by artists from all over the world, as well as some by the city’s local theater and dance performers. www.spectacular.is

In recognition and celebration of the country’s independence from Denmark in 1918, the festival serves as a platform for artists to engage with the public in contemplation of the history of Danish colonialism and the current relationship between the country and its past subjects.

With several workshops, talks, film screenings, concerts, performances, and art exhibitions the festival’s aim is to exhibit new artwork and open dialogue between artists and the public. If you’re into art, history and cute elfin creatures, this one’s for you. www.cycle.is

WHAT: Northern Wave International Film Festival WHEN: October 26 – October 28 WHERE: Freezer Hostel and Theater at Rif, Snæfellsnes Peninsula Not only is the Snæfellsnes Peninsula one of the most breathtaking destinations in Iceland, but this year it is hosting an International Film Festival that’s one for the books. The Northern Wave International Film Festival seeks to revive filmmaking as an art form by showcasing avant-garde short films and fostering dialogue between experienced and on-the-rise filmmakers. For the first time ever, the festival

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will also feature new music video screenings. The Freezer Hostel is a charming venue with homey theater space and a cozy bar. It also offers affordable accommodation for those looking for a place to stay during the festival. The town of Rif will be hosting several events and concerts during the weekend, as well as a fish soup competition at the local fish market. www.northernwavefestival.com/

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All the watches are designed and assembled by hand in Iceland. Only highest quality movements and materials are used to produce the watches and every single detail has been given the time needed for perfection.

www.jswatch.com

Issue five 125

ber 2018

October-Novem

ARIES 21 MARCH - 19 APRIL

SCORPIO

Your long-harbored conspiracy theory will be proven this week. Unfortunately, no one will care about it and life will go on.

24 OCTOBER - 21 NOVEMBER

TAURUS 20 APRIL - 20 MAY That spider that you tried to kill earlier will contact her lawyers, in which case, you will be involved in a drawn-out court trial that will not end well.

GEMINI 21 MAY - 21 JUNE Tonight, is the night. You will begin to get over your obsession with YouTube and finally go to sleep at a reasonable hour.

You will wake up feeling rejuvenated.

This month you will eat a lot of ethnic food from cultures that you don’t understand. We hope that your stomach is ready for it.

SAGITTARIUS 22 NOVEMBER - 21 DECEMBER You are always up for the challenge No matter if you are wrestling a polar bear or walking to the bathroom in the middle of the night with the lights out.

Ironically, there will be no challenges for you in the near future. Everything will go swimmingly.

CAPRICORN 22 DECEMBER - 19 JANUARY

CANCER 22 JUNE - 22 JULY Do you have the gut feeling that your sign is the best one of all? Well, you should trust that feeling. Let’s be honest. God is probably a Cancer.

LEO 23 JULY - 22 AUGUST You have serious mood swings so we’re going to play it safe and not risk saying anything that might anger you.

VIRGO 23 AUGUST - 22 SEPTEMBER We know that you’re a neat-freak and that you’re always demanding perfection in an imperfect world. We just wanted to point out that wherever dirt, chaos, and dust you may have noticed, they are all inevitable elements of the macrocosm.

Enjoy your flight.

LIBRA 23 SEPTEMBER - 23 OCTOBER This month will be full of oysters, black truffles, and fine champagne to satisfy your expensive tastes. Just please don’t throw shade at the people who prefer Domino’s and fast food.

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Let’s be real, you are very impatient.

You should pat yourself on the back for making it to page 126. Either you’re really bored, or our magazine is just THAT good.

Probably the latter.

AQUARIUS 20 JANUARY - 18 FEBRUARY A human will come into your life today whom you will exchange a few words with.

They will then exit your life and you will never see them again.

PISCES 19 FEBRUARY - 20 MARCH You and a Cancer will come together to work on a creative project that, when completed, will gain international recognition. The Cancer will do most of the work, but you will be right there to cheer them on!

Disclaimer: This horoscope is total and utter nonsense. Any accuracy, real or imagined, is purely accidental.

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Issue five 127

WOW SUDOKU

REALLY, REALLY BORED? HERE ARE A FEW SUDOKUS TO MAKE TIME FLY.

BUT HOW DO I DO IT? The object is to insert the numbers in the boxes to satisfy only one condition: Each row, column and 3x3 box must contain the digits 1 through 9 exactly once. What could be simpler?

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WOW Power to the people

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Issue five 129

THE TRAVELING INQUISITION

New wisdom and the Icelandic Viking philosophy Last year, Gunnar Andri Þórisson published Message From The Middle Of Nowhere where he mixes new wisdom with ancient Viking philosophy. Here on this page, you can read a little about this book as well as Gunnar’s favorite places in Iceland and abroad.

by Svava Jónsdóttiron

F

or over 20 years, Gunnar Andri Þórisson has been prominent in the business of sales in Ice­­ land, specializing in per­­­­­sonal development for both individuals and orga­­niza­­tions, managing sales initiatives and offer­­ing training, seminars, and lectures for thousands of students.

“Last year I published Message From The Middle Of Nowhere, a book to inspire readers in their own life struggles by showing that anything is possible. In the book, I mix new wisdom with our ancient Viking philosophy and represent my own story of success and failure in the art of sales… and the art of life, too.

“It is also a curious narrative for foreign readers, since I touch upon many aspects of Icelandic nature, culture, and society—elves, huge trolls, the thirteen Icelandic Yule lads and other mystical creatures—while trying in a way to explain the Icelandic psyche in the dramatic landscape we are so used to—volcanos, earthquakes and glaciers.

“I really enjoyed writing this book. Even though my story isn’t more remarkable than the story of the next person, I felt that the path I had chosen had led me into somewhat unusual circumstances, and I wanted to share with others what I had learned from dealing with these situations. Being an avid reader of personal development books for many years, I felt that my experience had real value for others.”

THE WESTMAN ISLANDS AND SKAGAFJÖRÐUR The author is asked about his favorite place in Iceland and he says that it’s a really tough task, so he’s forced to name two; the Westman Islands and Skagafjörður. “I have family connections to both of these places and both places have also had a lasting influence in my life. One chapter in my book, “When The Eruption Starts, Location Is Everything,” revolves around the 1973 eruption on Heimaey of the Westman Islands, where half of the town was covered in lava fields and all 5000 inhabitants had to be evacuated in the middle of the night. The Westman Islands have an amazing landscape; it’s a place where you can, to this day, sense the forces of nature right under your feet.

“My other favorite is Skagafjörður in North Ice­­ land; a wide and beautiful farmland area with a spectacular ocean view. Skagafjörður is the unoffici­al horse capital of Iceland and a place that always makes time stand still for me. I spent a

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Gunnar Andri Þórisson published Message From The Middle Of Nowhere.

lot of time there as a young kid, gazing out to the dramatic Drangey Island. According to Icelandic folklore, Drangey was created in ancient times when two trolls were leading their huge cow over the ocean. When the sun came up, all three were turned into stone—Drangey being the cow itself, forever fixed in the landscape in the form of this rocky island.”

magical and filled with big and small adventures— and I probably would have moved back there if circumstances had been slightly different at the time. Who knows… maybe I’ll end up spending my retirement years in beautiful Greece?”

Yes, who knows? Maybe there will also be few other Vikings lying on a Greek beach. Everything can happen nowadays.

GREECE Gunnar Andri says he has traveled a lot and fallen in love with many different places and cities worldwide. “If I have to pick one favorite, I would always pick Greece. There are many reasons to love Greece, but the main reason is that 23 years ago I lived in Thessaloniki. Upon arrival, I got the distinct feeling of “coming home” and although I have Viking blood running through my veins I thrived well in the blazing sun. My time in Greece was

“Last year I published Message From The Middle Of Nowhere, a book to inspire readers in their own life struggles by showing that anything is possible. In the book, I mix new wisdom with our ancient Viking philosophy and represent my own story of success and failure in the art of sales… and the art of life, too.“

s n a p c h a t /c i n t a m a n i . i s

+

f a c e b o o k /c i n t a m a n i . i c e l a n d

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b a n ka s t rรฆt i + k r i n g l a n + s m รก ra l i n d + a u s t u r h ra u n + a k u rey r i + w w w.c i nt a m a n i . i s

Issue five 131

A design studio & retailer of carefully selected fashion brands & products from around the world.

132 WOW Power to the people MEN: Skólavörðustígur 16. WOMEN: Skólavörðustígur 7 & Kringlan. HOME: Skólavörðustígur 12. GEYSIR: Hafnarstræti, Akureyri and Haukadalur. Geysir.com