The new Nordic kitchen
DEEP ROOTS IN THE MODERN AGE The leaders of Reykjavik’s food scene look to the past, local farmers and Icelandic nature for contemporary culinary inspiration, which is fueled in part by tourism. Meanwhile, Mediterranean flare and cooking classes are heating up the city’s kitchens. by Krista Connor Photos: Courtesy of Salt Eldhús/Hákon Davíð Björnsson, Sumac Bar&Grill and ÓX. Photos of Hrefna Sætran and Fiskmarkaðurinn by Karl Petersson.
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or some time, a cuisine resurgence has been simmering in the northernmost capital of the world, growing now to a steady boil. But as with all things connected to Reykjavik and Icelandic cuisine, you must first trace backward to under stand the present.
It started with New Nordic Cuisine, a restaurant movement begun in Copenhagen in the early 2000s which spread throughout Scandinavia, eventually reaching Iceland. The New Nordic concept, promoting an upscale return to local, seasonal dishes, is nothing new; chefs all around the globe are digging into the past, embracing culinary roots. But Iceland’s story is comprised of a patriotic movement sprung up unexpectedly, birthed by necessity, now nurtured by pride—and tourism. According to the renowned chef and restaurant owner Þráinn Freyr Vigfússon, most known for his Reykjavik boutique restaurants Sumac Bar & Grill and ÓX, the Icelandic culinary rebirth began with the economic crash in 2008. He says this was a huge wakeup call for Icelanders. “At the time, the Icelandic market demanded mostly imported food,” says Vigfússon, “and generally, had little awareness about the significance of traditional, local foods. The crash pushed us to look closer at our spending and not import all kinds of garbage.” The shift had begun.
“I wanted to bring something new to the Icelandic food scene,” says Vigfússon. “We focus on Icelandic products, like fish, meat, vegetables, and dairy, and use some of the more interesting spices from abroad.”
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WOW Power to the people
HOW TOURISM HELPS SHAPE THE CULINARY SCENE What began as a necessary shove to import less and produce more evolved into a national culinary identity. Lured by the promise of elves, lunar landscapes—and exotic national dishes, Iceland emerged on the world stage, and travelers began to flock to this mystical land. “After the financial crisis, tourists came and helped turn the market back around to Icelandic produce rather than imported products,” says Vigfússon. Since then, Iceland has come far by enhancing the New Nordic Cuisine, opening more restaurants and improving culinary tastes, according to Vigfússon. “The food scene has developed a lot with the help of a huge number of tourists.”
