WOW magazine issue 4 2017 by WOW air

e azin mag ISSUE FOUR 2017

BRINGING HOME THE HORSES

PLUS: THE WINNER OF WOW CYCLOTHON 2017

Y O U R F R E E C O P Y -TA K E M E W I T H Y O U

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Directly opposite of the geothermal area of the great Geysir & Strokkur

litli Geysir hotel Experience a wonderful stay with a front row seat to the unique Geysir area.

Geysir Glima restaurant – Coffee house with freshly ground coffee – Sweet ice creams & cakes – Traditional Icelandic meat soup – Fish soup & vegetarian soup – Local food WWW.GEYSIRGLIMA.IS

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Beautiful Nature & Fun activities

Elegant Restaurants • Design Shop • Hotel • Souvenir Shop • Soup Vegan Restaurant • Snack Shop • Camping Area

Welcome to Geysir ONE OF THE GREATEST NATURAL ATTRACTIONS OF ICELAND

GEYSIR THE BEST PLACES TO PHOTOGRAPH ON THE PLANET POPPHOTO.COM

THE GEYSIR CENTER Directly opposite of the geothermal area of the great Geysir & Strokkur

GEYSIR CENTER • HAUKADALUR • WWW.GEYSIRCENTER.IS +354 480 6800 • GEYSIR @ GEYSIRCENTER.IS Issue four 5

Descend 120 metres into a volcano

of twenty places “in One the world you must see before you die. ” - CNN 6

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& explore an underground world. The world feels a little “ more remarkable having seen the inside of its machinery. ” - Financial Times -

BOOK YOUR ADVENTURE AT: INSiDE

No Words can “ properly describe the awe in this experience! ” - Trip advisor review -

�VOLCANO.com

Standing inside “ a volcano is a strangely emotional experience.” - The Guardian Issue four 7 InsideTheVolcano.com

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Pre-booking is required. Book online at bluelagoon.com

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IN THIS ISSUE

POWER TO THE PEOPLE – ISSUE FOUR 2017

14 A LETTER FROM THE CEO

16 BREATH OF ICELAND A photography project that started out as a hobby but soon turned into something much more.

Bringing home the horses

20 TRAILS OF FIRE Step off the beaten track and onto a hiking trail to Iceland’s Hot River Valley. Bring your bathing suit. 24 WOW CYCLOTHON Ingvar Ómarsson, Iceland’s only professional cyclist, was a key element in CCP’s victory during this year’s WOW Cyclothon.

A LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

COZY TIMES AHEAD I may have written an editor’s letter like this before, but I’m going to do it again because this is my favorite time of the year! End of summer—be ginning of autumn. Hello to the old routine: back to school, fully manned teams at the office and time to get organized and make plans for the winter. Autumn is my true New Year’s Eve, and in concurrence, nature puts on the most amazing firework show of all, the fall colors. This is when I love Icelandic nature the most, with its blueberries and crowberries, its colors, and the flocks of white sheep being rounded up for the winter. Amid all the fall colors and berry picking, don’t forget to check the forecast before heading out for drives or hikes. Winter is coming, and it often likes giving previews of things to come. Enjoy the end of summer and beginn ing of fall in Iceland.

ma gaz

THE FOOD HOME ISSUE THE HORSES WOW MAGAZINE – BRINGING

ine

Happy travels, Guðrún Vaka Helgadóttir Editor in chief

ISSUE FOUR 2017

BRINGING HOME THE HORSES

On the cover

POWER TO THE PEOPLE three2017 2015 Issue four

PLUS: THE WINNER OF WOW CYCLOTHON 2017

Y O U R F R E E C O P Y -TA K E M E W I T H Y O U

Photographer and journalist Christ ina Hauschildt booked an unusual experience in Iceland last autumn. Instead of being driven around to various waterfalls and lava fields she opted for a trip to the horse round-up in Víðidalur where she got to participate as a rider with the Icelandic farmers and join in the festivities after.

32 HORSE HOMES Seeking something different for your Icelandic vacation? Try a unique accommodation in the countryside, with horses and all!

36 BRINGING HOME THE HORSES The horse round-up is a time honored tradition still being practiced here in Northern Iceland. Journalist Christina Hauschildt got to experience it firsthand. 44 THE FLYING WOW FAMILY Here at WOW air, we give our aircraft some unusual registration names. 48 ICELANDIC BEAUTY – FROM TOP TO TOE Discover some of the exciting brands and beauty products coming out of Iceland. 52 WOW CITYBIKE WOW air has brought WOW citybikes to Reykjavik and they’re kind of a big wheel! 56 THE WOW WORD OF ADVICE Hiking is a popular and wonderful way to explore Iceland, but such a close encounter with Iceland’s rugged nature demands preparation for any weather regardless of the season 74 HEARTSTONE Gudmundur Arnar Gudmundson’s first full-length film Heartstone has now won 37 international awards. It’s safe to say that this young screenwriter and director is going places.

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126 WOW HOROSCOPE What’s in your future? WOW air’s famed astrologist has the answer.

WOW Destinations 88 The Holy Land’s best budget bites Skip the tourist traps and explore Tel Aviv like a local.

84 THE U.S. CUSTOMS DECLARATION FORM What is this? Why do I need to fill it out?

128 BORED ON BOARD? Solve these sudokus.

130

90 Explore Florida by canoe Is there a more perfect way to see a shark than a swirl of fins and tail next to your canoe? 94 Let Brighton lift your spirits Ten years in the planning, and Brighton now has a new icon; as distinctive and enticing as the city itself. 94 Good ole’ England Ninety minutes east of Gatwick Airport is the glorious countryside and stunning coastline of England’s Romney Marsh. 98 We’ll always have Paris The word “souvenir” means “memory” in French. Here are a few ways to create unforgettable souvenirs in the City of Lights.

130 THE TRAVELING INQUISITION We apprehended the Icelandic queen of burlesque, Margrét Erla Maack, who’s crazy cabaret shows have caught our attention.

WOW MAGAZINE STAFF

100 Celebrate in Montréal This summer and autumn in Montréal are going to be hotter than ever!

Editor in chief: Guðrún Vaka Helgadóttir

102 The dish on Baltimore Baltimore is increasingly gaining recognition for its incredibly delicious culinary scene.

Proofreading: Paul Michael Herman

104 Brunch is best in the Burgh From the boozy to the vegan and beyond, Pittsburgh has a brunch option for everyone.

78 WOW DESIGN Designer and artist Bryndís Bolladóttir has become known for successfully implementing sound absorbers and diffusers aimed to improve the acoustics and ambiance of interior spaces. 80 THE VATNAJOKULL REGION Filled with contrasts, the Vatnajökull Region is a great destination all year round.

116 THIS AND THAT ... ... mainly this. 122 WHAT’S GOING ON? …quite a lot, actually.

34 TO MEAT OR NOT TO MEAT If you are a vegetarian, breathe easy as you set sail on your Icelandic sojourn.

Attention advertisers! Will your company be in our next issue? Contact our advertising representative and he’ll make it happen. He’s just that good! halli@wow.is

116 THIS AND THAT …mainly this.

Design and layout: Ivan Burkni ivanburkni@gmail.com Contributing writers: Eygló Árnadóttir, Shaun Busuttil, Stephanie Huff, Sonia Sahni, Christina Hauschildt, Gerður Harðardóttir, Susanne Masters, Maria Hart, Theadora Brack, Judy Colbert, Joy Frank-Collins, Christopher Kanal, Cindy-Lou Dale

WOWAIR.COM Tel: 00 354 590 3020 E-mail: magazine@wow.is Oddi environmentally certified printing company All rights reserved. Reprinting, direct quoting or recapitulation prohibited except with a written permit from publisher.

108 Bowie’s Berlin David Bowie’s Heroes one of pop’s great est anthems is 40 years old this August. We head for a birthday celebration in Bowie’s Berlin. 110 Edinburg festival fervor Celebrating its 70th birthday this August, the Edinburgh International Festival provides a great excuse to visit the charis matic Scottish city. 112 You want more? Check out our other WOW destinations. Where do you want to go?

P.S. WOULD YOU LIKE YOUR VERY OWN COPY OF WOW MAGAZINE? Take this one with you or contact us through magazine@wow.is and we’ll send you a printed copy. You can also check out WOW magazine online at wowair.com.

Waiting for summer.

Keeping Iceland warm since 1926

66north.com Issue four 13

A letter from the CEO

Me and my daughter, Thelma Mogensen, with our catch of the day in Þverá River, Borgarfjörður.

Dear friends, It’s hard not to fall in love with Iceland in the summer. To get out of the city and experience the wilderness, the incredible colors and reflections from our many glaciers, the smell of freshness everywhere, the sound of the waterfalls or the ocean and not to mention the endless summer nights. Even the locals are inspired as we hike, bike or drive around the country exploring the vastness in search of the perfect spot or moment. The great news is that you don’t have to go far to feel as if you’re on another planet. Iceland is full of unique little places that haven’t been explored and are often just a short hike off the beaten track. With only 350,000 inhabitants and 100,000 square kilometers, Iceland has one of the lowest population per km out of the 246 countries in the world. Naturally, with the incredible growth of tourism in Iceland, some of the most obvious spots are getting a bit crowded during peak season. However, there is so much more to be seen and do. One of my favorite things to do is to go by car up along the West Coast to Snæfellsnes where I take the Baldur Ferry from Stykkisholmur on my way to the West Fjords. The West Fjords are a place where you can easily get lost and feel as if you are completely one with nature. Another favorite is to go salmon fishing in the far east of Iceland where we have plenty of incredible salmon rivers literally in the middle of nowhere. There again you will find yourself in an otherworldly landscape with no artificial sound or light to distract from pure nature. Both regions offer simply spectacular scenes and WOW moments that always amaze me. Enjoy the ride! Thank you for choosing WOW air and I hope to see you on board again soon.

Sincerely, Skúli Mogensen Founder and CEO of WOW air

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HÚSAVÍK

ORIGINAL

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watching ECO-FRIEND ECO-FRI ENDLY SINCE SI NCE 1995

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Enjoy whale watching on board Andvari, our silent electric boat. The tour is noise free with minimum disturbance to whales and nature.

Get closer to the whales

There is nothing like getting close to the magnificent giants of the seas. You feel somehow thankful and happy. Join us for an unforgettable meeting.

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of things to Do in húsavík 2016

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Out and about

BREATH OF ICELAND Founded by couple Guðjón Svanur Hermannsson (aka Gaui H) and Lilja Dögg Schram Magnúsdóttir, the Breath of Iceland project started as a hobby but turned into something much more. Together they take photos and write about amazing places in Iceland in the hope of reaching as many people as possible. Photos: Gaui H, Breath of Iceland

he project started a year and a half ago when Gaui H and Lilja went on a trip to the south coast of Iceland. They stayed in a cabin for a weekend and took pictures and videos and had so much fun they decided to do much more and share their photos and videos with the world. They are very passionate about their project, and because of their excellent work combined with their passion, in the last few months, their followers on Facebook have gone from 590 to 90,000. Also, their website and Youtube channel have a steady stream of visitors. SHARING THE BEAUTY “We go on trips as often as possible, mostly using the weekends since we both have day jobs, devoting as many hours to this project as we can. Usually, we plan our destination during the week, but sometimes the weather dictates where we end up. Photographers often talk about the golden hour when the light is perfect for photography, but we use all hours of the day. Interesting shots can be taken in all light and weather conditions,” says Gaui H who is the main photo- and videographer. Lilja is his assistant, as well as taking behind-the-scenes photographs and making sure he doesn’t forget his camera in the middle of nowhere or fall off a cliff. “Our vision for this project is reaching as many people around the world as we can and sharing the beauty of our home country with them. We are always looking for ways to improve, so we hope that people who see our pictures and videos, comment and let us know what they think, what they like and what they would like to see more of,” Gaui H adds. THE TEAM Gaui H has been taking photographs since he was a child. His grandfather and grandmother gave him his first camera when he was nine, and after that, he was hooked. As an adult, he became more interested in digital photography and tried many types of cameras, but today, he only uses Sony. Besides doing nature videos, Gaui has worked with a lot of Icelandic bands, doing music videos and photoshoots, such as Dimma, Kontinuum and Himbrimi. He also does photoshoots for Zo-on, an Icelandic company that makes outdoor clothing made for Icelandic weather. However, Gaui H’s primary job is for Þórsgarður. Þórsgarður owns, among other properties, Kvosin Hotel, a small and very cozy hotel in downtown Reykjavík. If you stay there, you will get to enjoy Gaui H’s photography, for in every room hangs a photograph by him, from his Reykjavík life series. Lilja is the other half of this team. Lilja and Gaui are engaged to be married, and between them they have five children and even one grandchild. Lilja is a preschool teacher with a BA degree in English literature and a diploma in museum studies.

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A FAMILY AFFAIR Lilja and Gaui got engaged last year. Gaui popped the question behind Kvernufoss, a beautiful waterfall close to Skógafoss. They make a good team and like working together (which is a good thing, since they probably would never see each other if they were not always together on projects). “We try to involve as many family members in our projects as possible. For example, Lilja’s stepfather and brothers are composing music for the project,” says Gaui. Beautiful photographs and fantastic videos are what guests can expect when

The beauty of the mountains rising from the sea is unlike anything else, and the people there are the most wonderful people in all of Iceland.” Of course, Gaui would say that, being born and raised in the Westfjords.

visiting the Breath of Iceland website. “We try to put new photographs online regularly, and a new video every month. We will be on the road for most of this summer, so there’s lots of new material on the way.” PLAYING FAVORITES The Westfjords are Gaui’s favorite part of Iceland because of the untouched and pure nature there. “The beauty of the mountains rising from the sea is unlike anything else, and the people there are the most wonderful people in all of Iceland.” Of course, Gaui would say that, being born and raised in the Westfjords. The majestic Mount Vestrahorn is another one of his favorites. “It is one of the most photographed mountains in Iceland, however, it is always breathtaking to see it and feel the energy and atmosphere surrounding it. Every time I go there I try to find a different angle to shoot,” he says. Strandir, which is way up north, is Lilja’s favorite part of Iceland. “The drive from Hólmavík to Djúpavík (a very small but incredibly charming village) is just beautiful. There is no place on earth more beautiful. The waterfall, Gljúfrabúi is another one of my favorite places. It is a waterfall inside a cave. One of my favorite memories from our travels around the country, is when the car broke down and we were stuck by Gljúfrabúi for hours, waiting for someone to pick us up. There is just a fabulous atmosphere in that cave,” says Lilja. TIPS FOR PHOTOGRAPHING IN ICELAND When Gaui and Lilja are asked if they have any tips for those who want to visit Iceland and snap some photos they’re more than

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willing to share. “Bring your camera and a tripod. If possible, use different kinds of filters, and you can never have enough memory cards. Always remember to try different angles and don’t worry about the weather. You can still get a good picture even in terrible weather.” They recommend taking the Ring Road around Iceland, and if you possibly can, take your time. “Remember to bring extra socks when you are out and about. Something Lilja learned the hard way; wet feet are not fun. The weather is unpredictable, and there are dangers, so don’t ignore warning signs. But mainly, always be well prepared, anything can happen in Iceland,” Gaui adds. Finally, they say: “Be adventurous. Don’t just go to the typical tourist places. Take the road to you don’t know where. You might discover something spectacular.” v

Find the Breath of Iceland online at breathoficeland.is and on www.facebook.com/ThebreathofIceland. Also, find their videos on Youtube by searching for Breath of Iceland.

COLLECT MOMENTS - NOT THINGS! “Iceland had always been one of my dream vacations. The island’s untamed and beautiful landscape make it the perfect destination for a nature enthusiast. Not only did I finally get to come to Iceland, but I also decided to take my first ever helicopter ride. I flew with Nordurflug Helicopter Tours and they made all my wildest flight dreams come true. Not only did they have lots of tour options, but they were super flexible with working around my travel schedule. I ended up choosing the Geothermal Tour at 49.900 ISK per person. The pricing was comparable to other activities in Iceland, but this experience allows you to see the country from the sky!

"it was just us and nature." Unlike being in an airplane, the takeoff in a helicopter is smooth. If I had any nerves about the flight, they immediately vanished at the sight of the stunning landscape. I was amazed by how quickly the scenery changed from the city skyline, to lava fields and volcanic craters. Being up in a helicopter gives you a true perspective of the country as a whole. The experience was worth every penny and more.

“we actually got to land on an old volcano and were able to witness up close the untamed power of geothermal energy” As if flying wasn’t enough, we actually got to land on an old volcano and witness the untamed power of geothermal energy. I got to stand right next to the boiling mud pots and hot springs without other tourists blocking the view and no safety ropes holding us back… it was just us and nature. Our pilot was very personable, knowledgeable about the country, and a veteran pilot. I was amazed to find out he has done aerials for some big film productions like Star Wars and Oblivion. Needless to say, he kept our tour very interesting! Once we got back to the office, it took me awhile to actually “get back on the ground”. This experience was so thrilling and incredible, I had to let it all sink in! It’s no wonder that Nordurflug is one of Trip Advisor's top-rated Iceland experience. I will definitely be recommending this to anyone visiting Iceland!" Use the promo code WOWAIR for a 5.000 ISK discount of the Geothermal Tour when booking on our website www.helicopter.is.

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Trails of fire

HIKING TO A HOT RIVER Stepping off the beaten track and onto a hiking trail in Iceland promises more than just moments of awe and adventure minus the crowds. In the end, you may be rewarded with a rejuvenating soak in a hot river. Text and photos: Shaun Busuttil

drop my backpack onto the wooden platform, strip down to my boxers and shimmy into my swimsuit while trying not to freeze. A quick dash later I’m dipping my feet into the volcanically heated water. It feels like a soothing hot bath, the kind I love to take back home, and soon enough I wade in deeper until up to my neck. I’m soaking in a hot river at the Reykja dalur Hot Springs just outside the small town of Hveragerdi in Iceland’s southwest. Just a 45-minute drive from Reykjavik followed by a 3-kilometer hike, the land

Hengill’s numerous hiking trails and hot springs have also made the area popular with travelers, especially the half-day hike to the Reykjadalur Hot Springs.

scape in this particular part of the Land of Fire and Ice is about as raw and fiery as you can get. Sulfuric smoke billows out from cracks in the earth like dry ice, giving the area a rather hellish appearance, while gurgling pools of mud and boiling water are only just a footstep away: one wrong move, and you’re toast. BIRTH BY FIRE Roughly translated as Steam Valley, Reykjadalur is located within the Hengill volcanic mountain range and geothermal field. Despite not having blown its top in over 2,000 years, the vast 100 km² region surrounding Hengill is still highly active and consists of a series of basaltic fissure vents, crater rows and small shield volcanoes. The geothermal activity here is, in fact, an important energy source for the nearby Icelandic capital, feeding the Nesjavellir and Hellisheiði Power Stations, both operated by Reykjavik Energy. Hengill’s numerous hiking trails and hot springs have also made the area popular with travelers, especially the half-day hike to the Reykjadalur Hot Springs. Taking me less than an hour to reach the bathing area, this beginner-friendly trek promises a relaxing soak in a volcanically heated river at the end, and the chance to soak up incredible vistas of an untamed land along the way. STICKING TO THE PATH Setting off from the carpark at about 11 am on a chilly December day, I cross a small bridge over a river and start hiking on a serpentine gravel trail twisting its way up the mountain; immediately this gets my heart-pumping. It doesn’t take long until I’m sniffing the sulfuric air while passing boiling mud pools and scattered steaming fissures that reveal the land’s active geology. Without any protective barriers cordoning off these 100-degree Celsius hot pools and vaporous openings, it goes without saying that you should never

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Trails of fire

venture off the designated path—Iceland is a wild and unforgiving land that merits your utmost respect. It’s also important to wear proper foot wear (such as hiking boots or well-treaded running shoes) and pack appropriate clothing. Even the summertime weather can dramatically change, so be prepared. As you’ll be swimming in the hot river, don’t forget to pack your swimsuit and a towel too. TALES AND WATERFALLS Iceland is known as much for its majestic landscapes and waterfalls as for its mythological sagas and folk tales. It is a country in which age-old stories are inextricably woven into the fabric of the land; a country that has inspired countless fictional works. After a steady 20-minute slog uphill to the top of the trail, I turn a corner and meet a bunch of hikers from Norway, seated on a rock and absorbing the calming vistas of rolling green volcanic hills. They tell me they’ve just come from the Snæfells nes Peninsula in West Iceland, most famous for being the inspiration behind Jules Verne’s 19th-century sci-fi novel Journey to the Center of the Earth. In the novel, the peninsula’s 700,000-yearold stratovolcano, located beneath the Snæfellsjökull Glacier, is thought to have been the entrance to a passageway that led to the center of the earth. As I survey the steaming vents and gurgling pools belching vapor around me, I can’t help but think that I’m en route to hell. But Hell never looked so good. Halfway through the hike, I spy the gushing Djúpa gilsfoss Waterfall cascading down the mountain and into a gorge that feeds a river in the valley below, its white water churning like thick cream. Off the path—a place I dare not tread—the land reveals hillsides of volcanic rock, black sand and heathland plants, while vents of steam release clouds of sulfur that eventually merge with the clouds above. All this is bathed in the soft light of the winter sun, compelling me to whip out my camera again and again.

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THE HARD SLOG But I need to push on. It’s early December, and with only about five hours of daylight, I don’t have time to sit around and stare. It’s frustrating to have so much beauty before you and so little time to appreciate it. For this reason, I promise myself to return during the height of midsummer. Cracking on, I thread my way through the steaming valley. Occasionally I pass other travelers on the trail—either on a day trip from Reykjavik or stopping by on an extended tour around the country. But we’re all focused on reaching the hot river, and so return to our own little worlds after brief attempts at small talk. After crossing a warm river and spotting bathers on their way back, I know I’m getting close. The trail starts to incline again, and within minutes I come to a wooden bridge completely enveloped in steam. Fed by hissing sulfuric vents embedded in the craggy rock below, the whole area smells like rotten eggs, and I can’t see further than my outstretched hand. On my right, I pass a baby blue colored, bubbling pond looking like a small version of the Blue Lagoon. And surrounding me are gurgling hot pools that resemble cauldrons. At any moment, I expect a wicked witch to emerge from behind some rocks to give them a stir. Unfortunately, this doesn’t happen. A HEAVENLY SOAK Rounding a bend in the trail, the bathing area of the hot river is finally revealed to me, and the soak I’ve been waiting for is now imminent. Excitement fuels me along the elevated wooden walkway that has only recently been built around the river to protect the area’s delicate nature and its endangered species of plants. In 2016, an estimated 100,000 people visited Reykjadalur. With Iceland becoming such a popular destination, it’s important we do our part to preserve this pristine slice of bathing paradise for future generations. As the saying goes, we should only leave our footsteps behind, and in this case, those footsteps should only be on the wooden walkway.

The Reykjadalur geothermal area is a noncommercial attraction. Entrance is free and anyone can go there at any hour. That also means there is no staff, no safety guards and no proper facilities such as toilets, showers or waste bins. Guests enter at their own risk and are expected to leave the area as they found it, or better.

After changing into my swimsuit and soothing my weary bones with a 10-minute soak in the warm water, I decide to turn up the heat and wade further upstream. Eventually, I reach the confluence of the river where the volcanically heated water gushing out of the earth meets the cold water traveling downstream from higher up the mountain. In this part of the river, I’m able to find the perfect temperature by lying on my back and making slight adjustments—right for more heat, left for more cold—all while peering at the slow-moving clouds above. As I lie there, I think to myself, the trail to the Reykjadalur Hot Springs isn’t the pathway to hell, it’s the stairway to heaven. Now the only hard thing left to do is leave. v

Proudly Making Iceland a Hot Destination. We could talk forever about how interesting our clean energy production at Hellisheidi is. But, instead, let’s see what some of our guests at the Geothermal Exhibition have to say on TripAdvisor: “A must see activity”, “Bucket List”, “... interactive and inspiring”, “Now I’m impressed!”

ENNEMM / SÍA /

N M 76 5 3 5

We hope to welcome you too on your trip to Iceland at the most powerful exhibition in the world.

Only 20 min. drive from Reykjavík. A perfect stop on your way to or from the city.

Issue four 23 The exhibition is open every day from 9:00-17:00. Please direct any inquiries to exhibition@on.is Tel: (+354) 591 2880 www.geothermalexhibition.com

GOING THE DISTANCE WOW Cyclothon

WOW Cyclothon is a unique ultra-cycling race around Iceland that continues right through the midnight sun. Teams of four or ten cyclists race amongst themselves to see who can out cycle and outsmart the others. This year was no exception. Two teams, CCP and Zwift, led the race almost until the end where it came down to the teams’ key cyclists and race strategy to see who would be first to the finish line. Photos: Rut Sigurðardóttir and Hari

One of the key cyclists for winning team CCP is 28-year-old Ingvar Ómarsson who not only is a professional cyclist and Iceland’s number one, he’s also taken part in every WOW Cyclothon from the beginning except one and is sponsored by WOW air. GOING PRO Ingvar, who just won his 12th Icelandic Championship title, started cycling in 2015 but says he didn’t start racing to a serious degree until 2011. “My introduction to bikes came very late, as I didn’t really like them when I was a kid, but one day I got curious, and the curiosity is still with me. From playing around on BMX bikes to throw

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ing myself off cliffs and, sometimes, houses, on downhill bikes, today I’m a cross-country mountain biking specialist. I still do road racing when I’m in Iceland, and in the winter I race cyclocross; it’s probably the most fun way to train during the winter,” says Ingvar. After racing in Iceland for a few years, Ingvar was lucky to get the help needed to become a professional in 2015. Now in his 3rd season as a pro cyclist, he says he’s learned a lot but has a lot more left to do. “When I went from amateur to pro, I needed a different environment, with bigger challenges and a more manageable training arrangement. I

One of the key cyclists for winning team CCP is 28-yearold Ingvar Ómarsson who not only is a professional cyclist and Iceland’s number one, he’s also taken part in every WOW Cyclothon from the beginning except one and is sponsored by WOW air.

lived in the Netherlands for just over a year with my girlfriend Iðunn, before moving to Denmark last year, where we live now. It was one of the most important changes for full-time cycling, because every athlete needs to keep chasing a bigger challenge, bigger goals, to stay hungry for more. My biggest fear as an athlete was hitting a plateau in racing and training, so I needed to make a big change to keep getting better.”

WOW Cyclothon is a magnificent race around Iceland in the midnight sun that takes riders by some of Iceland’s best known natural wonders.

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WOW Cyclothon

Cycling at an elite level sometimes looks like an eternal vacation, especially to the untrained eye. Sure, there are training trips in the sun, exciting locations where big races are held, and tons of expensive and exciting equipment to enjoy, but that’s only part of it. The amount of training that goes beyond cycling for fun, the sacrifices needed in the cyclist’s personal life, as well as hours and hours of planning, scheduling, reviewing and analyzing the training plans, the racing plans, and future goals are countless. “That’s not even including the work around sponsors, financial planning, something that barely matters to the amateur, but dictates everything the professional can do, and can’t. I’m good at planning, and I value the time put into everything that keeps my dream alive, so I get to enjoy every training ride, and every trip to a race, big or small,” says Ingvar.

it’s all worth it. The joy I get from racing my bike all over the world is worth the sacrifice. WOW air plays a big role in every part of this, and for the past three years they have assisted me with flights to and from Iceland, to locations all over Europe and North America.” Being a mountain bike specialist, you may not see Ingvar at the Tour de France, but every year he makes it to some of the biggest mountain bike races in the world. Last year he participated in the World Champion ships as Iceland’s first competitor ever, and he also gets to race a World Cup every once in a while. “Being part of races at this level is very special, and can’t be compared to anything else I’ve experienced. It barely matters where I end up in the results, just having raced with the best in the world, and survived, is enough for me to feel successful. But I always want more.”

COMPETING WITH THE BEST

COMPETING IN WOW CYCLOTHON

Most of Ingvar’s time is spent either on the bike training or off the bike recovering from training or racing. “It’s a very simple life, really, and mostly consists of eating, training, sleeping and repeating. I travel a lot, with around 30-40 flights per year, and my bike goes with me wherever I go. And

It’s amazing to think that of all the people who have taken on the Ring Road around Iceland, Ingvar has taken part in every WOW Cyclothon race bar one. “The WOW Cyclothon is a unique event, held in a unique landscape. And even though I finish the race every

HARD WORK

Shortly before the finish line Ingvar (far left) and his CCP teammates rode the amazing landscape surrounding Lake Kleifarvatn.

E A R LY B I R D C AT C H E S After her time in Iceland, Naomi arrives early at the airport so she can enjoy her last hours there before continuing her journey.

GIVE YOUR SELF MORE TIME TO SHOP

F I N D F U R T H E R I N F O R M AT I O N AT W W W. K E FA I R P O R T. I S/ E A R LY

Arrive early at Keflavík Airport and we will greet you with open arms. All passengers travelling with WOW, Icelandair and Primera can check-in from midnight. We have increased our services so you can have a lovely last Icelandic experience. Shops and restaurants open all night in june so you can embrace the last drops of Icelandic taste and feel — and of course Tax and Duty Free.

year thinking I don’t want to do this again, there’s a magnetic force that pulls me back every year. I don’t know if it’s the pure satisfaction of racing around the entire country of Iceland, the excitement of racing as part of a team, or the companionship of staying in one vehicle with your teammates for 30-40 hours, but there is some magic at work in this race. And each time I’ve been part of it, I’ve been on the podium. That’s two golds, two silver and one bronze. In 2014 my 4-man team, racing for Kria Cycles, whom I race for personally, we won the race in a 2-team sprint, after racing for close to 40 hours. It was a spectacular finish after a nail bitingly close race, and still is one of my favorite races ever.” RACE GOALS This year Ingvar raced for CCP, one of Iceland’s biggest companies and a world renowned video game developer. “Birgir Már Ragnarsson, a member of the board of directors at CCP and one of my most important personal sponsors, assembled the team and wanted me to be a part of it. To me, this was a perfect opportunity to give the 10-man team race another go and be a part of a powerful and impressive team. We had very experienced Icelandic racers, combined with a couple of Americans and one guy from Serbia, all three of which are very strong cyclists,

From WOW Cyclothon 2014. Here Ingvar can be seen beating his rival, Hafsteinn Ægir Geirsson from Team Örninn, by the mere front wheel of his bike, after the most exciting final sprint in WOW Cyclothon history. Photo: Kristinn Magnússon

Being a mountain bike specialist, you may not see Ingvar at the Tour de France, but every year he makes it to some of the biggest mountain bike races in the world.

MOM R EO R TE I MTEI M E F O RF OS RH OS PHPOIPNPGI N G

and a big part of the international cycling community. Along with the Zwift team, our goal was simple but ambitious: win the race, and beat the course record.” As Ingvar’s team got closer to the start of the race, they created a simple plan to work with the Zwift team and control the race from the beginning. “The starting kilometers, in the beautiful Hvalfjörður, were stressful, to say the least. The action heated up quickly once we reached the first climb, a very short, but comfortably steep incline for a climber to make a difference. I took my turn at the front of the group and put in enough speed to reduce the group to only about five teams or so. These teams stayed together until we reached Holtavörðuheiði Heath.”

MORE TIME FOR SHOPPING

E X P E C T E D R U S H H O U R S AT C H E C K I N XT PE D C TREUDS R R SCAT H EI N CK IN EXPEC HUHSOHUHROSUAT HECK

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To remember her time in Iceland, she brings back home unique souvenirs that she bought To remember her time in Iceland, she brings To remember her time in Iceland, she brings at the airport. back home unique souvenirs that she bought back home unique souvenirs that she bought the airport. at theatairport.

Winners! The finishing sprint was wet but nothing could dampen the spirit for Ingvar and his team.

PUNCTURED ATTACKS Holtavörðuheiði is a unique location for a team willing to take a chance. And this is where Ingvar tried his second attack of the race. “When I got out of the car, just before the climb started, I noticed my rear tire was soft, so I grabbed a floor pump and started filling it with air. As the group of riders got closer and closer to the car, I heard a loud pop coming from my bike. My rear tire had a puncture and had to be replaced with a spare wheel, which I luckily had. With a

new wheel, I jumped on the bike just in time to join the group and replace my teammate. Then I was ready to do what I do best—attack in the climb. “As we got closer to the top of the climb, I made my move and quickly rode away from the group, making sure not to spend too much energy, but still enough to get rid of at least one team. But the plan backfired when I noticed the guy riding for Zwift getting left behind. Because we had a plan going with Zwift, I couldn’t leave him behind, and once the other teams noticed this, the cyclists from teams Orkan and TRI kept going as I waited for him. I decided to drop back to him, and help him rejoin the others. By the time we reached the bottom of the descent, we were all back in the same group but it was noticeable that my attack had taken its toll on them.” WHEN TWO BECOME ONE Only a few hours later there was a split in the group; the CCP team and the Zwift team were alone at the front of the race, an ideal position and quite fitting to their plans. What followed were hours and hours of racing as a team, with each team putting one guy on the road at a time and both teams agreeably working together. They raced

WOW Power to the people

BREYTTUR TOLLKVÓTI OG MEIRI SVEIGJANLEIKI

DUTY FREE ALLOWANCES IN ARRIVAL STORE

6 1

einingar og þú raðar þeim saman eins og þú vilt. units of alcohol, any way you like it. eining = 25 cl af sterku áfengi eða 75 cl af léttvíni og léttum líkjörum eða 3 l af bjór, síder eða gosblöndum. unit = 25 cl strong spirits or 75 cl wine and aperitif or 3 l beer, cider and alcopop.

FYLLA TOLLKVÓTANN MEÐ EINUM VÖRUFLOKKI? ALL YOUR DUTY FREE ALLOWANCES FROM ONE CATEGORY? STERKT ÁFENGI SPIRITS 22—55%

LÉTTVÍN OG LÍKJÖRAR WINE AND APERITIF <22%

BJÓR, SÍDER OG GOSBLÖNDUR BEER, CIDER AND ALCOPOP

6 einingar/units – 1,5 l

6 einingar/units — 4,5 l (6 flöskur/bottles 75 cl)

6 einingar/units — 18 l (36 dósir/cans 50 cl)

TILLÖGUR AÐ SAMSETNINGUM MIX & MATCH SUGGESTIONS STERKT ÁFENGI

BJÓR, SÍDER OG GOSBLÖNDUR

SPIRITS 22—55% 1 FLASKA 1 BOTTLE

4 einingar/units — 1 l

BEER, CIDER AND ALCOPOP

STERKT ÁFENGI

4 einingar/units — 1 l

WINE AND APERITIF <22%

LÉTTVÍN OG LÉTTIR LÍKJÖRAR WINE AND APERITIF <22% T.D. 3 FLÖSKUR E.G. 3 BOTTLES

3 einingar/units — 75 cl

2 einingar/units — 50 cl

LÉTTVÍN OG LÉTTIR LÍKJÖRAR

SPIRITS 22—55% 1 FLASKA 1 BOTTLE

12 DÓSIR 12 CANS

T.D. 2 FLÖSKUR E.G. 2 BOTTLES

2 einingar/units — 75 cl

BJÓR, SÍDER OG GOSBLÖNDUR BEER, CIDER AND ALCOPOP

18 DÓSIR 18 CANS

3 einingar/units — 50 cl Issue four 29

Ingvar leading the race in Hvalfjörður and trying to stretch out his group of competing cyclists.

through the windy North, up and down the gravel roads in the East, and finally reached the South, with its flat and long roads, and icy headwinds from the glaciers of Iceland. When strong collaborating teams reach the South Coast, the question always becomes the same: When will the teams stop working together, and race for the win? “The two teams came to an agreement, that close to the finish line, about 20-30 km, the teamwork would end. My team considered two possibilities, one being a sprint for the line with 300 meters to go, and the other being a long range attack with about 20 km to go; we decided to go for the second option. It was safer, suited our team well, and gave us time to

recover if it would fail. I was tasked with making the attack, to split the group and get our team in a position to ride alone for the win.” When the time came for Ingvar to get back on the bike, he faced a big challenge: “The Zwift team had decided to put almost the entire team out on the road, to make sure it had a big group, capable of controlling the race. I had two teammates with me when we started our shift, against 8 of the Zwift guys. It didn’t take very long for their guys to start boxing me in, keeping me from a position to attack. When they tried to split the group apart, to force me to do some work at the front, I used the opportunity to attack, by sprinting

When strong collaborating teams reach the South Coast, the question always becomes the same: When will the teams stop working together, and race for the win?

as hard as I could, followed by a long effort, putting everything I had into the pedals. The attack was successful, as I peeked behind my back to see a huge gap growing, and the Zwift team split into small groups, with a few guys riding alone, desperately trying to catch me. A few minutes later, I was joined by a few of my teammates, and soon I got to go back into the car for a short recovery after a big effort. The next 40 minutes of racing were as exciting as they get, both teams trying everything to go as fast as possible, swapping riders every few minutes. In the end, my team was in the final kilometers, every rider on the road, and our gap had grown to about 60 seconds. We never slowed down, and never looked back, only watched as the finish line got closer and closer, until we reached it, victorious. 36 hours and 13 minutes of racing, destroying the previous course record, and taking the gold, we had won the race in the best way possible.” AGAIN?

Ingvar (center) and his CCP teammates at WOW Cyclothon’s award ceremony. Photo: Sigurjón Ragnar

WOW Power to the people

“Every year when I finish this race I’m exhausted, empty and desperate for sleep. A few people usually hear me say ‘I’m not doing this again,’ and yet every year I’m back for more. Even though I have victories in teams of 4 and 10, I have no doubt I’ll be back to race around Iceland again.” When asked about doing the solo competition, where cyclists do the whole race in one go, Ingvar says he tries not to sound too negative. “Although I have no interest in doing it now. Maybe in 10 years, who knows?” v

RE04

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BSÍ Bus Terminal • 101 Reykjavík •

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The Golden Circle

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FOR FURTHER INFORMATION on our tours and services please consult our brochure located in the seat pocket in front of you.

Issue four 31

Iceland road trip

Horse homes Perhaps best known for its wild and untouched beauty, Iceland is a rapidly growing tourist destination among backpackers and luxury travelers alike. Text and photos: Stephanie Huff

As the nation’s tourism industry continues to climb steadily and more iconic photos and travel itineraries are shared online, those interested in going “off the beaten path” will have a harder time finding it. So if you are seeking something that‘s different for your Icelandic vacation, look no further. A unique accommodation which far exceeds the “typical” homestay can be found in the countryside – horses and all!

coastal cliff, promising gorgeous glacier views and a private beach sound? Pretty amazing right? Now imagine yourself sipping your morning coffee as you gaze out over lush, rolling fields with grazing Icelandic horses. Visualize a peaceful night where you’re dreamily staring up into the night’s sky, while watching the Northern Lights dancing sprightly. Tucked away in the serene Snæfellsnes Peninsula, I did just that!

UNIQUE HOLIDAY

THE RURAL EXPERIENCE

Take a break from exploring Reykjavik’s city life and try an interesting twist to the traditional accommodation. How does staying on a horse farm situated on a

Iceland is an easy to navigate road-trip destination; the country is small enough to make its many remarkable sites reachable in relatively little time, and

WOW Power to the people

So if you are seeking something that‘s different for your Icelandic vacation, look no further. A unique accommodation which far exceeds the “typical” homestay can be found in the countryside – horses and all!

owned property which can be found between the quiet villages of Ólafsvík and Grundarfjörður. Just like most historic places, the horse home has an interesting and unique story behind it. The legend goes that centuries ago, the farm was cursed to remain desolate and barren. Over the decades, the property was never able to yield crops, and eventually its ownership changed. The new owners took little heed of the myths and tried everything to cultivate the land, yet to no avail. After final attempts of a harvest, the farm’s tractor sunk in mud and was eventually destroyed, spurring the farm to be sold yet again! Today under current ownership, the farm remains crop-free, enabling the land to flourish with lush, wild grass—perfect for grazing horses. HORSES AND HILLTOPS I pulled into the horse farm late in the afternoon on a chilly winter day, eager to check into my guest cottage and warm up. To my delight, I saw how the farm was situated on the edge of a coastal cliff, offering unobstructed views of the Snæfellsjökull Glacier in the distance. Despite the cold, the scenery was simply too lovely to go inside just yet. With permission from the owners, I explored the property with my camera in tow.

the views are incredible in all directions and every season. The road trip to the Snæfellsnes Peninsula has its own special allure, offering adventure, wonder and beauty. The view, driving from Reykjavik, yields jagged coastal cliffs, towering sea stacks and unique rock arches. Now and then, snow-capped mountains or gushing waterfalls can be spotted from the highway, volunteering themselves for stunning pictures. The countryside has a rustic appeal that combines astonishing natural beauty and “no-frills” architecture. Tiny farms and cottages can be spotted in the distance at the base of mountains with backdrops of tall but narrow waterfalls rushing down through the craggy terrain. In other areas, bright cabins add a splash of colorful contrast to a broad field or group of rolling hills. I could hardly resist stopping to take photos along the way, but nothing would prepare me for the picture perfect farm I would reach. THE HISTORY Just a few hours outside of Reykjavik, the Brimilsvellir Farm is a cozy, family-

As the sun began to set, I couldn’t help but feel like the luckiest person to have found this beautiful farm and to have a private encounter with these beautiful horses!

Just a short distance down from the guest cottage, I spotted something that made me freeze in my tracks. I had read that the property was home to Icelandic horses and had been hoping for an opportunity to photograph them—and here it was. The majestic creatures saw me and stopped grazing, perhaps deciding what to do while a stranger watched them. Then something strange happened; they started galloping towards the fence to get closer to me! The horses’ manes whipped in the wind as I snapped eagerly with my camera. When they arrived on the other side of the fence, we were at a stalemate; standing face to face, we looked into each other’s eyes. The Icelandic horses have become somewhat of a phenomenon on social media. It has influenced tourists from all over the world to visit the countryside in hopes of spotting them and perhaps even snapping a photo or two. As the sun began to set, I couldn’t help but feel like the luckiest person to have found this beautiful farm and to have a private encounter with these beautiful horses! FINDING PEACE AND QUIET There are many scenic places in Iceland for one to seek peace in nature, and this horse farm was certainly one such place! After my experience meeting the horses, I imagined that the solitude of the farm would make the perfect place for spotting the famed aurora borealis. With no city lights to detract from the “sky show,” all one needs to do is simply look up and wait for the otherworldly event. Though there are many Northern Light bus tours from Reykjavik, I‘d rather be out in the countryside. On the farm, the moment I first saw the lights was very personal; a memory that is solely mine to treasure! On the property, just a few hundred meters from the guesthouse there’s an old church and a cemetery. In the morning light, I took a walk down to the church to admire its rustic architecture. One can almost feel the spiritual energy from the building. Beyond the church, are the farm’s very own “bird cliffs” and a private beach. Many tourists are drawn to Iceland by the charm of its unique black sand beaches, so how fortunate was it that this horse farm had its very own. Back at the guest house, I geared up for another day of driving to complete my road trip through the Snæfellsnes Peninsula. I sipped on my coffee under the soft morning light as I gazed out the window. Past the cliffs, the sunshine glinted off the Snæfellsjökull Glacier in the distance. Just out of the corner of my eye, I could see something moving. The horses were running again; their bodies moved in sync with each other, while the coastal wind whisked their hair out wildly behind them. It was just magnificent. v

Issue four 33

To meat or not to meat

THE CHOICE IS YOURS If you are a vegetarian, breathe easy as you set sail on your Icelandic sojourn. The country has more than enough to please your taste buds and satisfy your hunger. by Sonia Sahni Photos: Gló Restaurant

Reykjavik is home to vege tarian-friendly restaurants like Gló, Aalto Bistro, Shalimar and Cafe Babalú.

While Iceland is famous for its traditional meat soup, most of its restaurants also have the option of a vegetarian soup, which is usually thick and creamy.

Icelanders love burgers, and so do the million plus tourists that visit the country every year. Iceland is one of the few countries that does not have a McDonald’s outlet.

However, if you are craving something that needs a little bit of crafting, most chefs will be happy to tweak a non-vegetarian dish and add a vegetarian supplement.

WOW Power to the people

Iceland has a lot to offer to the vegetarian soul. Greenhouses are mushrooming all around, gearing things up to please your palate.

squared and makes an ideal tea time snack along with some strong, sweet coffee. BURGERS

JUST ASK Reykjavik is home to vegetarian-friendly restaurants like Gló, Aalto Bistro, Shalimar and Cafe Babalú. Most restaurants, even in the interior of the country, have at least a couple of vegetarian options to ensure that you can enjoy the natural sights of Iceland after a warm and hearty meal. Whether you are touring the Golden Circle, enjoying Nature’s bounty in North Iceland or walking on glacial ice at Vatnajokull, the below mentioned vegetarian options will be available to you at most restaurants… all you need to do is to ask. Bon Appetite!

SOUP A warm bowl of soup with some crusty bread is a great way to begin a meal. While Iceland is famous for its traditional meat soup, most of its restaurants also have the option of a vegetarian soup, which is usually thick and creamy. In many self-service restaurants the soup portion, along with bread and butter, is unlimited, so you can take a second or even third helping as you like. If you’re exploring the Golden Circle, the soup of the day (tomato, mushroom or asparagus) at Cafe Gullfoss, is highly recommended (and don’t forget the refills of this flowing goodness). PANCAKE AND EGG Conventionally, pancakes are served with either maple syrup, chocolate sauce or fruit preserve. However, in Iceland, thick, slightly sweet pancakes, with a layer of cheese and some boiled egg are available as a snack in most supermarkets. The mild cheese and eggs adding the protein element much needed in the Icelandic climate well complement the sweet ness. Typically, each serving is about 4 inches

Icelanders love burgers, and so do the million plus tourists that visit the country every year. Iceland is one of the few countries that does not have a McDonald’s outlet. Possibly, the reason for this is the excellent quality of burgers available at restaurants around the country. Food connoisseurs rave about the juicy meat patties that they feast on when they are in Iceland. Vegetarians need not feel left out. Every restaurant that offers a meat burger also offers a vegetarian burger and usually, an egg burger too. The burgers come along with a generous helping of fries and make a fulfilling meal. A delicious burger, stuffed with a smoking just-off-the-grill patty is such a welcome sight on a cold evening. If you are in Reykjavik and are in the mood for a burger, Hamborgarabúllan is a great burgercentric place, which offers vegetarian options that delight many. They also have vegan options. SANDWICHES AND SALADS Sandwiches and salads are two of the most customizable dishes in the world and allow vegetarians to sample local produce as per their dietary requirements. Most restaurants offer a couple of vegetarian options for sandwiches and salads. However, if you are craving something that needs a little bit of crafting, most chefs will be happy to tweak a non-vegetarian dish and add a vegetarian supplement. The Hali Country Hotel Restaurant at Hofn, near Jokulsarlon, serves some excellent grilled sandwiches with oozing cheese and fresh herbs along with a fresh salad. The food is delicious, and views of the rolling hills and the ocean make the place an ideal lunch spot. DESSERTS If you have a sweet tooth, you will surely have a ball in Iceland. There are plenty of desserts to choose from; every cafe has a range of cakes and pastries that will make you indulge ever so often. To devour a warm chocolate delight guilt-free, remind yourself that Iceland is a cold country and that the calories will keep you warm. The chocolate cake at Cafe Babalú in Reykjavik is moist, made with quality cocoa and is the perfect way to end a meal! v So if you’re a vegetarian and coming to Iceland, fear not! You’ll not only survive… You’ll survive with a smile!

Issue four 35

Horse roundup in Víðidalur

WOW Power to the people

BRINGING HOME THE HORSES For the past hour the valley has been filled with silence. Only the fresh air and a slight wind are felt. I am constantly debating myself, whether I am in the right position to capture this many horses at once. But suddenly, as the distant rolling thunder breaks the silence, I know, I will have to trust my instinctsâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; rising is the sound of 2,400 horse hooves trotting, tĂślting and galloping along the winding gravel road. Text and photos: Christina Hauschildt

Issue four 37

Tourists are welcome to participate in the final part of the roundup.

he huge herd is leaving behind the natural grass and mountain herbs before snowfall makes it impossible to forage there. In long rows, the mares, foals and young horses travel towards their destination— paddocks in the valley, where many hours of work are to be spent separating them and eventually handing each Icelandic horse over to its rightful owner. NO HORSE LEFT BEHIND The horse round-up is a time honored tradition still being practiced here in Northern Iceland. Every fall, on the first Friday of October, 15 riders set out for the mountains where the horses have enjoyed a summer of complete freedom. At first, the riders spread out in smaller groups searching a 30-kilometer-wide area. Making sure that no animal is left behind, they drive the many separate herds together. The riders contact each other using cell phones, with fingers crossed that the weather conditions will treat them kindly. Fog, wind and snow can create dangerous situations and cause the great roundup to be postponed. But this year things go as planned. The small herds are gathered, and we meet them as they travel in one impressive group of 650 Icelandic horses through the beautiful valley.

For a whole day, this smaller herd is driven through the valley from the western part of the mountains. Here they wait to join the rest of the group

Breaks are mandatory as the speed is sometimes high. During these breaks, the horses relax, and many of them are yawning

RUNNING LOOSE Tourists are welcome to participate in the final part of the roundup. Danish Marianne Louise Hansen was one of the lucky riders. “While the sound and sight that the galloping herd, in a medley of colors, coming toward us from the mountain through spectacular surroundings were impressive, the highlight was riding among all these horses running loose. I was genuinely fascinated to observe these beautiful, free animals up close.”

WOW Power to the people

TAKING A BREAK Breaks are mandatory as the speed is sometimes high. During these breaks, the horses relax, and many of them are yawning. The leading riders set the pace, and they need to remain in front of the herd at all times. Thus, at times they have to increase the speed to a maximum.

Issue four 39

Bridges are crossed with the greatest of ease. Most horses have done this many times before, and by following the mare, the foals naturally learn that the sturdy bridges are not to be feared. They develop their social skills and become very good at traveling on the rocky ground. When we go out hacking, it is obvious to us, which horses have spent time in the mountains and which have not.” The riders in the back make sure that no horse breaks out or is left behind. If they stray,the riders need to move fast to drive them back.

Like pearls on a string, the horses travel along the winding roads. “As long as nothing frightens them, it is usually not a problem to keep them together. Young horses often follow older horses, and many of the older mares have done this many times before. They know the routine,” says Steinbjörn Tryggvason. But still, the riders need to be very alert. If one horse decides to break out more will follow.

MASTER OF THE ROUNDUP Steinbjörn Tryggvason on his beautiful white mount is réttarstjóri (roundup master). The title of réttarstjóri means Steinbjörn is responsible for managing the final separation of the horses. “Spending a summer in the mountains is very educational for the young horses,” he says. “They develop their social skills and become very good at traveling on the rocky ground. When we go out hacking, it is obvious to us, which horses have spent time in the mountains and which have not.”

WOW Power to the people

COME TOGETHER The riders who initiate the roundup choose their mounts wisely. The animals need to be well trained and quick on their feet. They also have to accept the rider leading another horse on his side. A horse without a rider is used to carry supplies and as a replacement in case of an injury to the first horse.

Icelandic wool

Issue four 41

Horse roundup in Víðidalur

The day comes to an end, and all the horses are driven into a large paddock. Here they rest, forage and spend the night before the separation, which takes place the following morning. While the horses settle in the paddock, owners, riders and spectators come together for a festive meal.

LET THE ROUNDUP BEGIN!

The horse round-up is a time honored tradition still being practiced here in Northern Iceland. Every fall, on the first Friday of October, 15 riders set out for the mountains where the horses have enjoyed a summer of complete freedom.

It is Saturday at 10 am. Réttarstjóri Steinbjörn Tryggvason gets ready to open the gate, letting the 650 horses out again. Now there is only a short distance to the venue, where the separation takes place.

A NIGHT OF SONG AND DANCE It takes almost all day to separate the horses. Then the owners bring them home to their farm. From all corners of the field expressions of joy and relief are uttered. The horses all arrive home safely. Now they can look forward to a winter’s supply of hay and shelter. The festivities can now begin. The roundup is celebrated with singing and dancing until the early hours of the morning. v

Want to ride along? Eva-Lena Lohi and Steinbjörn Tryggvason arrange travels to the horse roundup in Víðidalur, and you are welcome to join in on horseback for a unique experience. More info on www. steinbjornshorsetrips.se.

The end is in sight. Before nightfall, all horses will be turned over to their owners on one of the 25 farms participating in this old tradition. In former times it was not unusual for farmers to quarrel over ownership. Today all horses are microchipped leaving no room for error.

Want to see the roundup? If you would like to experience the horse roundup “from the ground” we recommend staying at the nearby Gauksmýri Lodge. If you fancy going on a ride in the spectacular landscape, the hotel offers its own riding facilities as well. More info on www.gauksmyri.com There are multiple horse and sheep round-ups all around Iceland every fall. They are usually held around the second week of September, some large and other small. They are not only an age old tradition and a necessity but also a very fun social gathering for farmers and farm raised cityslickers alike.

WOW Power to the people

ble ub

Glo om

Fred

M Ma iss dd

FOR ALL THOSE WHO ARE YOUNG AT HEART Come and meet the Tulipoppers in our magical flagship store in central ReykjavĂk or find them in boutiques around Iceland. Learn more about the Icelandic Tulipop world and browse the Tulishop online www.tulipop.com. Issue four 43

T E E L F W O W THE

E L P R U P Y K PAINT THE S

TF-WOW was the first aircraft registration name acquired by WOW air. It now adorns one of our Airbus A330 wide-body jets which was added to the WOW fleet early summer 2016.

TF-WOW

TF-MOM Type: A321-200 - YoM: 2014 - Seats: 200 Everyone loves their mom right? The second aircraft to get a WOW registration was TF-MOM; it was also the first aircraft bought and delivered to WOW air in March 2015. TF-MOM is also known as Freyja (The Nordic goddess of love) and is currently the only aircraft in the WOW fleet that has a name beyond its registration code.

TF-DAD Type: A321-200 - YoM: 2014 - Seats: 200 If you register a TF-MOM, it goes without saying that you should have a TFDAD too. For a time TF-DAD was the only aircraft in the WOW fleet that was painted white and had a smile and sunglasses, following WOW air’s old livery. That all changed last May and TF-DAD is now just as purple as the rest of them.

Type: A330-300 - YoM: 2015 - Seats: 343 TF-WOW was the first aircraft registration name acquired by WOW air. It now adorns one of our Airbus A330 widebody jets which was added to the WOW fleet early summer 2016. WOW air’s A330s are the largest aircraft used on commercial flights to and from Iceland and are mostly used to service our routes to California, Florida and other long distance routes. TF-WOW has 13 BigSeats.

TF-GMA Type: A321-200 - YoM: 2016 - Seats: 220 TF-GMA is a short name for Grandma, but don’t let the name fool you, she’s actually very young. The matriarch joined the WOW fleet at the end of May 2016, straight out of the box.

TF-GPA Type: A321-200 - YoM: 2016 - Seats: 220 Also straight-out-of-the-box, TF-GPA, aka Grandpa, joined the WOW fleet in August 2016. Together Grandma and Grandpa fly our guests to both North America and Europe.

Airbus A330300 widebody

WOW Power to the people

TF-BRO

Type: A320-200 - YoM: 2010 - Seats: 174 TF-BRO has been servicing WOW air since September of 2015, flying to various destinations around Europe.

rding to lly and not acco fu re ca ry ve ft ra in a big way. mes of each airc ey represent us registration na e th th as s n se fu oo be ch r to mes nes WOW ai a look. registration na Unlike most airli exception. Take et. We like our no ab is ft ph al ra e rc ai th us of rb es OW family of Ai standard practic d the growing W an ue iq un is ily Every fam

TF-SIS Type: A320-200 - YoM: 2010 - Seats: 174 TF-BROâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s twin sister was delivered to WOW air at the same time as TF-BRO, in September 2015, and works really hard carrying our guests to Europe.

TF-KID

Type: A321-200 - YoM: 2013 - Seats: 200 Delivered to WOW air in February 2016, TF-KID carries guests to both Europe and North America.

Airbus 320-200 Airbus 321-200

TF-SON Type: A321-200 - YoM: 2013 - Seats: 200 TF-SON, like his sister TF-KID, services both Europe and America. The SON was delivered to WOW air in March 2016.

TF-LUV Type: A330-300 - YoM: 2015 - Seats: 343 We love everyone, so naturally, we had to have a TF-LUV. This wide-body jet was delivered to WOW air early summer 2016. TF-LUV has 13 BigSeats.

If you register a TF-MOM, it goes without saying that you should have a TF-DAD too.

TF-GAY Type: A330-300 - YoM: 2010 - Seats: 338 TF-GAY is the out and proud member of the WOW family. A free spirit at heart, he visits San Francisco as often as he can. TF-GAY was delivered to WOW air in June 2016. TF-GAY has 14 BigSeats.

TF-JOY Type: A321-200 - YoM: 2016 - Seats: 220 Just before Christmas 2016 we received TF-JOY straight-out-of-the-box from Airbus. It was the best holiday present ever! Issue four 45

ET THE WOW FLE Y PURPLE

PAINT THE SK

Airbus A320-200 neo TF-NEO (New Engine Option) has brand new CFM LEAP-1A engines that are more economically and environmentally friendly than any other on the market

TF-NEO

TECHNICAL INFO

Type: A320-200 neo - YoM: 2017 - Seats: 180 TF-NEO (New Engine Option) has brand new CFM LEAP-1A engines that are more economically and environmentally friendly than any other on the market. TF-NEO’s added flight range means it can fly our guests all the way to Canada in addition to servicing our shorter European routes.

TF-PRO Type: A321-200 - YoM: 2017 - Seats: 218 Say hello to one of our young professionals of the sky. All of our aircraft are total pros, but this one gets to be TF-PRO. Delivered in May 2017 with newly designed interior in WOW air’s style, it gives genuine comfort and is truly amazing.

TF-WIN

Airbus A330-300

Max takeoff weight: 235,000 kg, Range: 11,750 km, Engines: 2xRR-Trent700, Cruising speed: Mach 0.82

Type: A321-200 - YoM: 2017 - Seats: 218 We like winning, and TF-WIN well represents our ambition. Delivered in May 2017 with newly designed interior, WIN serves both our European and North American destinations.

TF-NOW

Airbus A321-200

Max takeoff weight: 93,500 kg, Range: 7,400 km, Engines: 2xCFM-56, Cruising speed: Mach 0.78

Type: A321-200 - YoM: 2017 - Seats: 218 Make sure you are present in the NOW and fly with TF-WOW in glamorous style. Delivered to WOW air in June 2017 with newly designed interior, TF-WOW travels to both Europe and North America.

TF-SKY

Airbus A320-200

Max takeoff weight: 77,000 kg Range: 6,480 km Engines: 2xIAE-V2500 Cruising speed: Mach 0.78

Type: A321-200neo - YoM: 2017 - Seats: 218 The sky is the limit for some, but for WOW air we aim further when it comes to technology. TF-SKY was delivered in June 2017 and has a brand new CFM LEAP1A engine. WOW air is the first airline in Europe to operate the A321 neo aircraft. It offers A321 operators exceptional technical, economic and environmental performance, with a 15% reduction in fuel consumption and CO2 emissions versus current engines and a 50% cut in NOx emission. TF-SKY’s added flight range means it can fly our guests all the way to Tel Aviv in the Middle East and most of our destinations in North America as well.

WOW Power to the people

Airbus 320-200 neo

Max takeoff weight: 79,000 kg Range: 6,850 km with Sharklets Engines: 2xCFM LEAP-1A Cruise Speed: Mach 0.78

Refuel at OlÃs We welcome you to our service stations around Iceland where you can refuel and enjoy our services. Great variety of tasty food and beverages and everything else you might need on the road. Visit us at olis.is/travel

FREE FUEL DISCOUNT CARD

FREE COFFEE WITH DISCOUNT CARD

FREE WI-FI

OPEN 24 HOURS

Since 1927

Issue four 47

Icelandic beauty – part I

FROM TOP TO TOE Y IT ON BU

Algae, fish scale, hand-picked wild blueberries and leftover coffee grinds; these are just a few of the natural ingredients the relatively new Icelandic beauty business relies on in its quest for the Holy Grail of beauty. Discover some of the exciting brands and beauty products coming out of Iceland. Text: Gerður Harðardóttir

BO ! ARD

BLUE LAGOON The Blue Lagoon is without a doubt the best-known tourist attraction in Iceland, so popular in fact that pre-booking a visit for a dip in the lagoon is now required. The algae and silica that give the lagoon its distinctive azure blue color are rich in nourishing minerals and ingredients that soften, calm and nourish the skin. The Blue Lagoon skin

WOW Power to the people

The algae and silica that give the lagoon its distinctive azure blue color are rich in nourishing minerals and ingredients that soften, calm and nourish the skin.

care line was first introduced back in 1993 with products specifically made for treatment purposes as the lagoon had already become well known for its miraculous healing effects on serious skin problems such as psoriasis and eczema. The Blue Lagoon skin care line follows the highest mandates of eco-friendly sustainability with each product vegan, cruelty- and paraben-free. The Silica Mud Mask composed of the Blue Lagoon’s iconic white mud that visitors love to smear on their faces while swimming in the lagoon, is by far the Blue Lagoon’s most popular product. www.bluelagoon.com

Y IT ON BU

BO ! ARD

VOR VOR organic skincare line is made by herbalist Margrét Sigurðardóttir and is, by choice, only available at selected hair and beauty salons in Iceland where they are used during customers’ pampering sessions. Products include facial cleansers, masks, toners, serums, lip salves, day- and night creams with each product mainly based on pure Icelandic water, nourishing seaweed and wild blueberries, handpicked fresh each summer. Some of the VOR products contain active components such as hyaluronic acid for anti-aging effects, but all of them are non-GMO and made without parabens or synthetic perfume. Staying clear of plastic containing harmful chemicals such as BPA, phthalates, PVC or polycarbonate, Margrét exclusively uses glass packaging for her products.

Some of the VOR products contain active components such as hyaluronic acid for anti-aging effects, but all of them are non-GMO and made without parabens or synthetic perfume.

www. vororganics.is

The Age Rewind Skin Therapy capsules improve the skin from the inside as does the Amino Marine Collagen, a hydrolyzed collagen powder and an excellent ingredient to add to delicious and nutritious smoothies, juices, teas and beverages.

FEEL ICELAND The idea for Feel Iceland was born one day as Hrönn Margrét Magnúsdóttir, founder of the company, watched her father-in-law’s daily boatload of freshly caught fish being brought to shore and prepared for the market. What caught Hrönn’s attention, in particular, was how much of the fish by-products were thrown away, including the fish scales. Surely, Hrönn thought, these could be utilized somehow. The result: three unique Feel Iceland products based on 100% pure marine collagen derived from wild fish caught in the clean Atlantic Ocean surrounding Iceland. The Feel Iceland products work together on strengthening and beautifying the skin from the inside out. The Age Rewind Skin Therapy capsules improve the skin from the inside as does the Amino Marine Collagen, a hydrolyzed collagen powder and an excellent ingredient to add to delicious and nutritious smoothies, juices, teas and beverages. Be Kind Age Rewind, an intensive anti-aging serum helps deliver a variety of significant improvements to the skin. All the products are non-GMO, additive and gluten free and do not contain soy, wheat, lactose, starch, yeast, or artificial flavors. www.feeliceland.com

Issue four 49

Horse roundup in Víðidalur

Verandi’s mission is to protect the environment for a better future and to work with nature instead of against it by reusing highquality raw materials that are normally wasted.

VERANDI When Verandi’s very first product, a coffee/seaweed/salt body scrub hit the shelves in October last year, it became such an instant hit that by Christmas its first batch had completely sold out. Its main ingredient, surplus coffee grinds, are collected from coffee shops and blended with magnesium-rich Icelandic sea salt, seaweed, almond oil and deliciously pure essential oils. The oils and the seaweed soften the skin while the coffee grinds and the salt exfoliate. Fittingly, Verandi started over a cup of coffee at a café in Reykjavík, when Rakel Garðarsdóttir, the CEO of Vesturport, Icelandic Film and Theater Production company, and Elva Björk Barkardóttir, a lawyer and founder of Litla Gula Hænan, a free-range chicken farm, noticed how the coffee grinds were being thrown away. A few months earlier, Rakel had founded Vakandi, an organization that fights waste. Constantly thinking about ideas on how to minimize waste she instantly knew that this was something worth looking into. After some experimentation in the privacy of their bathrooms, Rakel and Elva Björk hit on the perfect blend and their deliciously smelling (and effective) coffee scrub was born. Verandi’s mission is to protect the environment for a better future and to work with nature instead of against it by reusing high-quality raw materials that are normally wasted. Rakel and Elva Björk are currently developing new products such as ones made from surplus cocoa beans from Omnom Chocolate manufacturer and surplus organic Icelandic barley from Móðir Jörð, both high-quality materials that work miracles for the skin. Verandi was recently nominated for the 2017 Nordic Council Environment Prize. www. verandi.is

Nature and science unite in Taramar’s ultra-pure bioactive skin care line. With unusually few ingredients per product, mainly derived from sustainably harvested Icelandic seaweed and organically grown medicinal herbs, handpicked in Iceland, each ingredient is traceable to its origin, organically certified or coming from a confirmed pure wild source.

TARAMAR Nature and science unite in Taramar’s ultra-pure bioactive skin care line. With unusually few ingredients per product, mainly derived from sustainably harvested Icelandic seaweed and organically grown medicinal herbs, handpicked in Iceland, each ingredient is traceable to its origin, organically certified or coming from a confirmed pure wild source. Behind Taramar is Dr. Gudrun Marteinsdottir, a professor at the University of Iceland, who since 2005 has been interested in the science of cosmetics. After personally experiencing discomfort from mainstream skin care products she initiated research into the safety of cosmetic ingredients. Through her work on the biology of marine organisms, Gudrun became increasingly inspired by the hidden healing potential of marine compounds derived from seaweed and other marine organisms and spent the next 9 years on research and development before the Taramar products hit the shelves. Products include an ultra-pure bioactive serum made with Icelandic seaweed, a purifying treatment for skin firming and a potent algae cleansing oil. Taramar does not use conventional preservatives, is nonGMO, 100% vegan and does not test on animals. www. taramar.is

VILLIMEY Villimey started out as a hobby over twenty years ago, at the kitchen table of Aðalbjörg Þorsteinsdóttir, better known as Alla, in a small fishing village in the West Fjords. Today, Villimey remains a thriving cottage industry. Built on strong family traditions of using herbs and balms to treat illnesses and ailments, Alla started out using remedies that had been passed on by word of mouth from generation to generation, on family members and herself only. Encouraged by the results, she decided to expand and today, under the brand name Villimey, produces a line of skin care products, made by the strictest requirements for hygiene and quality practices. Villimey skin care is granted with the International Organic Certification and recommended by doctors. The products are excellent for treating ailments such as joint pain, swelling, skin rashes, stretch marks, diaper rash and for effectively healing wounds. The

WOW Power to the people

natural oils balms and salves are made from wild Icelandic herbs collected when the herbs are most potent. They come from the largest certified organic picking area in Iceland, the pure and unspoiled nature of the West Fjords. All of the products have been thoroughly tested and their potency confirmed. The first product to hit the market, the Muscle and Joint Charm is still one of Villimey’s best sellers, known to be effective for wounds healing from surgery. Villimey products are 100% certified organic and contain no added preservatives, fragrance or color. The natural preservative properties are derived from the herbs themselves. www.villimey.is

Villimey skin care is granted with the International Organic Certification and recommended by doctors. The products are excellent for treating ailments such as joint pain, swelling, skin rashes, stretch marks, diaper rash and for effectively healing wounds.

W E L C O M E

O N

B O A R D !

Elevate your encounter with Iceland! Amazing helicopter tours around Iceland for individuals or groups. You can choose from a 20 minutes city sightseeing tour up to a whole day journey and everything in between. AirTaxi! We are often available on short notice! Your wish is our command! The fleet is made up of the most modern and meticulously maintained helicopters on the market. The pilots are trained to the highest standards, experienced, friendly, multi-lingual individuals with great knowledge of Iceland’s spectacular nature. They will make your journey unforgettable. Safety and comfort of our customers is always our main priority. • We operate from Reykjavik (city) Airport. • We offer free transport services within Reykjavik city area in connection with our flights. • We can, on the other hand, arrange for a pick up and/or drop off from and to just about anywhere in the country. • You can either pick one of our tours or simply design your own. • We are flexible.

Our service team is on duty 24/7 and will happily assist you at any time. Check out our tours and prices on our website. E-mail to info@rehe.is or call (+354) 589 1000 www.reykjavikhelicopters.com

Issue four 51

WOW-on-wheels!

WOW CITYBIKE – IT’S KIND OF A BIG WHEEL This summer WOW air started a brand new side venture in Reykjavik, a city-bike service, giving the citizens and guests of Reykjavík a chance to better explore the capital of Iceland on their own. Photo: Garðar Ólafsson

noise and air pollution. We wholeheartedly recommend riding around Reykjavik while taking in the sights.

F is

k is

ló

Skarfabakki Harbor

REYKJAVÍK'S OLD HARBOR

LÆKJARTORG SQUARE

The Pond

Sæbr aut ug

ave

Borg artú n

KLAMBRATÚN PARK

sb ra ut

WOW Power to the people

bra

rla

in g

ðu

Bicycling is an eco-friendly way to sight-see wherever you go as it reduces traffic congestion,

HÚSDÝRAGARÐURINN PARK AND ZOO

M ik

Reykjavík Domestic Airport

la b

ra u

Bú st

NAUTHÓLSVÍK BEACH

THEY SEE ME ROLLIN’ Find your WOW citybike station and start riding. For more information go to www.wowcitybike.com

LAUGARDALSLAUG SWIMMING POOL

HLEMMUR SQUARE HALLGRÍMSKIRKJA CHURCH

We hope to see everyone riding bikes in Reykjavik this summer, using them as an environmentally friendly mode of transportations to sightsee in Reykjavik. v

citybike

Renting a WOW citybike is easy. Go to any WOW citybike station and use your credit card in the kiosk to sign in and get a code. Use your code to take out a bike and ride as you please, for up to 30 minutes for only 350 ISK. Before your half hour is up, return the bike to any WOW citybike station and wait at least 2 minutes before you take the bike out again, if you have time left, or get another 30-minute credit for 350 ISK. You can do this all day long but if you decide to go for a longer ride on a WOW citybike each half hour added will cost 500 ISK.

City bike rentals are well known all over the world. From USA and Canada to the UK and China, the simple idea of a city bike-sharing system has taken root in most big cities and the bikes are well used. It was time the bike-sharing got to Reykjavik too and WOW air, an airline proud of its bike-friendly culture (not to mention the WOW Cyclothon), is happy to be the one to offer this user-friendly bike rental to the people of Reykjavik and their visitors. This June WOW air set up eight WOW citybike stations in and around downtown Reykjavik providing affordable access to bikes for short distance trips. This gives riders the chance to forgo motorized transport while still traveling quickly from A to B where they can return the bike and then take it out again when it’s time to move on to the next exciting destination. This affordable option is more fun than a bus or a taxi and an easy way to get to know Reykjavik.

Só

This June WOW air set up eight WOW citybike stations in and around downtown Reykjavik providing affordable access to bikes for short distance trips. This gives riders the chance to forgo motorized transport while still traveling quickly from A to B where they can return the bike and then take it out again when it’s time to move on to the next exciting destination.

WOW air now offers 100 bikes divided between eight kiosk stations.

að av

eg ur

Issue four 53

Be Iceland

The ultimate travel companion Finding all those secret spots in Iceland that no one even thinks to look for can be a daunting task but we have something that can make your vacation in Iceland a lot easier.

With over 2600 GPS POIs you‘ll have a hard time not making a few detours. Be Iceland is an informational website and a phone app designed to make your traveling in Iceland easier. PLAN TO BE THERE As soon as you land, you can book your Flybus transfer to Reykjavik through the app instead of standing in line at the ticket office. Because all the Flybuses have free wifi, the journey will also give you a great opportunity to find and book tours on your way to Reykjavik. When traveling in Iceland, the Be Iceland app will help you find interesting places nearby and help you locate most of Iceland‘s amazing natural attractions and historic places, towns, hotels, shops and restaurants. The app will also help you find ATMs and recycling stations should you need them and it lets you filter everything down to better fit your plans.

WOW Power to the people

THE TRAVELER‘S SECRET WEAPON The Be Iceland app is easy to navigate and has several categories to choose from such as Eat, Sleep, Discover, Enjoy and Shop, to name a few. The Discover category is especially handy, giving you directions to places known for their natural or historical significance close to your location. Filtering the results by your interest can lead to the discovery of something great, like a little known natural gem, a conveniently located hiking route or a historical site where you learn something interesting. If you‘re a budget traveler, this feature will become your ultimate secret weapon when planning your trip as almost all of these places are free of charge. Inside all other categories, you can filter the results to find exactly what you need with information that would never fit inside any guide book. Looking for a swimming pool? Go to the Enjoy category and filter the results to swimming pools, you‘ll find the

When traveling in Iceland, the Be Iceland app will help you find interesting places nearby and help you locate most of Iceland‘s amazing natural attractions and historic places, towns, hotels, shops and restaurants.

The Be Iceland app is free of charge and available for ios and Android through their respective stores. You can also check out the Be Iceland website, beiceland. is. It‘s a great place to start if you‘re planning a vacation in Iceland.

closest one first but you might also find one that‘s too unique to pass by. In the Enjoy category, you can find nearby tours too and book them directly. EVERYTHING YOU‘RE LOOKING FOR AND MORE Hungry? Select the Eat category and browse the closest restaurant. Or decide what you‘re hungry for and filter the results. From vegan or vegetarian to steaks and sushi and almost everything in between, the Be Iceland app‘s got you covered. For those looking for that perfect item to complete their wardrobe or a quirky souvenir, the Shop category will be a dream come true. Filter the results by fashion or design to find real Icelandic clothes or select souvenirs to find the one item that will complete your collection. v

Spend the night at a snow-powered hotel In Iceland, all electricity is generated from renewable sources; falling water, the heat of the earth and the force of the wind. Welcome to the land of renewable energy. landsvirkjun.com/visitus

Issue four 55

A WOW word of advice

Be prepared for any kind of weather whenever you venture into the wild. Avoid wearing cotton or denim on a hike; as those materials get cold, dry slowly and lose their insulation capabilities when wet.

Hiking in Iceland Hiking is a popular and wonderful way to explore Iceland, but such a close encounter with Iceland’s rugged nature demands preparation for any weather regardless of the season. by Eygló Árnadóttir Photos: iStockphoto.com / vitaliymateha

Like it says in an advert from one of our oldest clothing company’s, “There is this one place in Iceland you absolutely must dress in warm clothes, it’s called, outside.” The term “að verða úti” (literally meaning “to get stranded outside”) refers to dying from cold and exposure; a common death in the old days when most people lived on isolated farms and could only get around on foot or horseback. But sadly this still happens, often because people underestimate the weather and don’t dress appropriately. HARSH WEATHER Iceland actually isn’t as cold as you might think; the climate is mild, so winters rarely get far below freezing. Weather conditions, however, can be extremely harsh and unpredictable. Heavy storms are common and can be fierce with sudden blasts of cold wind, rain and snow. The mild climate extends into summers which are relatively cool, so not even during the summertime can you count on being safe in the wild nature. Few things in the world are more unstable

WOW Power to the people

112

In case of an emergency call 112. Download the 112 Iceland app to your phone, where pressing one button calls for help while sending your location by text.

www.safetravel.is

than the Icelandic weather; sunshine can turn into a snowstorm in a heartbeat. The ever changing weather makes it vital to check the weather forecast regularly. Just because the weather is fine where you are now, it won’t necessarily be fine in an hour or good where you are headed. Never disregard the weather forecast. DRESS RIGHT! Be prepared for any kind of weather whenever you venture into the wild. Avoid wearing cotton or denim on a hike; as those materials get cold, dry slowly and lose their insulation capabilities when wet. Bring layers of wool and/or fleece, and wear good hiking shoes (leather shoes are a big no no). It is also a good idea to wear a brightly colored hat. If you do get lost and rescue parties will have to search for you, brightly colored clothing will stand out, especially on glaciers and snowy mountains. OFF THE BEATEN TRACK These precautions are especially important while travelling in the Highland. Extending over 40,000 square kilometers, this uninhabited wilderness ranks among Europe’s largest unpopulated areas, so you won’t find much shelter. Snowstorms are more likely to take place in the Highland (even in the summer), and fog can get very thick. Before venturing into the wilderness without professional guidance, leave your travel plan with our heroes at ICE-SAR, the Icelandic search and rescue teams. This can be done through the 112 app or at www.safetravel.is. In case something happens on your trip, thousands of highly trained volunteers will then have the necessary information to start search or rescue. Please take note; places such as glaciers and ice caves should not be explored without proper guides. v

BOOK HERE

AIRPORT EXPRESS Quick• Frequent• Convenient

KEFLAVÍK AIRPORT

REYKJAVÍK

Tickets available at the arrivals hall Terminal to Terminal Price:

Price:

2,400 ISK

2,900 ISK

Price:

3,900 ISK

4,900 ISK

One Way

Return

Contact information: Holtagarðar, 104 Reykjavik Tel. +354 540 1313 | iceland@grayline.is | airportexpress.is | grayline.is

One Way

Return

Issue four 57

Promotion

Burro / Pablo Discobar Veltusund 1 by Ingólfstorg Square 101 Reykjavik Tel: +354 552 7333 E-mail: burro@burro.is www.burro.is

Burro and Pablo Discobar

Where you’ll find the locals Burro Tapas + Steaks is a new favorite on the Icelandic restaurant scene, having opened in the fall of 2016 in downtown Reykjavik. Icelanders were quick to claim this hidden gem, and from the start, it has been a local favorite.

urro Tapas + Steaks is a new favorite on the Icelandic restaurant scene, having opened in the fall of 2016 in downtown Reykjavik. Icelanders were quick to claim this hidden gem, and from the start, it has been a local favorite.

Fun and quirky with a history Burro is located in the center of Reykjavík in a hist orical building designed by Rögnvaldur Ólafsson, often dubbed “the first architect of Iceland.” To design the interior of Burro, the owners recruited designer Hálfdán Pedersen to help them use as much as possible of the house’s original plans as well as portray their fun and quirky spirit.

Best shared with friends All food at Burro is prepared with high-quality Icelandic ingredients by master chefs and served by the very helpful waiting staff. Everything they serve comes with a modern Latin twist and all of the dishes are made so they can be shared with the whole table, creating a more festive atmosphere. Every night at Burro will feel like it’s the weekend; it’s fun, it’s relaxed and the staff makes sure all of their guests are having a good time.

Dinner and disco Before or after enjoying dinner at Burro, we recommend a visit to Burro’s weird brother on the

BURRO Opening hours: Sun-Thu: 5-11 pm and Fri-Sat: 5-12 pm PABLO DISCOBAR Opening hours: Sun-Thu: 4 pm – 1 am and Fri-Sat: 4 pm – 3 am Happy our every day from 4-6 pm

WOW Power to the people

floor above the restaurant. Pablo Discobar has happy hour from 4-6 PM every day. Pablo Discobar will make you some of the best cocktails in town, and of course he will play you some disco music as well but beware, he doesn’t like it when people steal his pelicans. v

Burro Tapas + Steaks is a new favorite on the Icelandic restaurant scene, hav ing opened in the fall of 2016 in down town Reykjavik. Icelanders were quick to claim this hidden gem, and from the start, it has been a local favorite.

Promotion

Kaldi Bar Laugavegur 20 b 101 Reykjavik Tel: +354 581 2200 www.facebook.com/KaldiBarCafe

A breath of fresh air

Cool as Kaldi KALDI BAR IS ONE OF ICELAND’S MOST UNIQUE BARS. AN OASIS IN CENTRAL REYKJAVÍK.

t might not be spacious but it makes up for it with great relaxing atmosphere in a rustic setting. Besides the congenial atmosphere, there’s a great outside seating area in a cozy backyard. Known for its wide collection of local micro brews both on draft and in bottles, Kaldi Bar is very popular among locals who check in at happy hour to get their fill of the unfiltered Kaldi brew. Drop by and get to know everybody, they might even give you some good tips on how to become a local. v

Kaldi Bar is one of Iceland’s most unique bars. An oasis in central Reykjavík. It might not be spacious but it makes up for it with great relaxing atmosphere in a rustic setting.

KALDI BAR Opening hours: Sunday-Thursday: 12:00 noon - 01:00 am Friday & Saturday: 12:00 noon - very late / Price list Beer on draft 0.5 – 1,100 IKR Glass of vine – 1,200 IKR / Happy hour 16:00-19:00 / Beer on draft 0.5 – 650 IKR / Glass of vine – 650 I

Promotion

Kol Restaurant Skólavörðustígur 40 101 Reykjavík Tel: +354 517 7474 www. kolrestaurant .is

Cocktails and feel good food at Kol Restaurant BE PREPARED FOR A MEMORABLE NIGHT OUT AT KOL RESTAURANT.

ituated at Skólavörðustígur 40 in Reykja vík, Kol Restaurant’s design concept is a mixture of warm modern Icelandic feel with international touches and the furniture of designer Tom Dixon playing the central role. The restaurant is on two floors with an open kitchen and a mighty bar. Both floors are divided into spaces with cozy leather couches and a variety of different table settings. Kol Restaurant centers on the bar where the country’s best cocktail bartenders serve craft cocktails from the best ingredients available

and offer an ambitious cocktail list to begin and complete the dining experience. The selection is feel good comfort food with a twist on classic cuisine. The menu offers a variety of finger food, salads, fish, steaks and dess erts. The head chefs, Einar Hjaltason and Kári Þorsteinsson, have over 20 years of experience at Reykjavik’s best restaurants as well as work experience in several known restaurants in London, for example Le Manoir Aux Quat’ Saisons, Dabbous, Noma, 28/50 and Texture. Don’t miss out on this

KOL RESTAURANT Opening hours: Monday-Friday 11:30-23:00 / Saturday-Sunday 17:30-23:00

WOW Power to the people

brand new gem on the Reykjavik restaurant scene. This is a great place to begin a fun evening. v

Kol Restaurant centers on the bar where the country’s best cocktail bar tenders serve craft cocktails from the best ingredients available and offer an ambitious cocktail list to begin and complete the dining experience.

Promotion

American Bar Austurstræti 8-10 101 Reykjavik Tel: +354 571 9999 Mobile: +354 697 9003 Find us on Facebook/AmericanBarIceland

American Bar American Bar captures the American spirit; land of the free, home of the brave with a unique selection of beer and a simple yet delicious menu. American Bar is a must-visit when in Reykjavik.

Beer selection second to none With more than 50 different kinds of beer you are sure to find the beer that suits your taste. There’s beer made in the Hawaiian Islands as well as beer made from the famous Icelandic water.

Location and experience Located at the heart of Reykjavik, American Bar is easy to find. Once inside you’ll feel at home right away, especially if you’re an American; with decorations like football helmets (find your favorite team) and the American flag.

Live music, live sport and the Wheel of Fortune Live music every night brings the right atmosphere and if you want to shake it up a bit you can hit the

dance floor on weekends and dance into the crazy Reykjavik night. If you are feeling lucky you can always spin the Wheel of Fortune. Must see that game in the English PL or the Champions League? You will be well taken care of at the American Bar. HD-screens and TVs in every corner make sure that you won’t miss one second of your favorite sport.

Inside and out—all day long With more than 100 seats inside and a great outdoor area on the sunny side (for those wonderful sunny Icelandic summer days) you will always find a seat at a good table. The outside area is truly remarkable, overlooking Dómkirkjan Cathedral and Alþingi (Parliament House). When you think of central Reykjavik this is it! The menu

is simple, yet delicious. The hamburgers, ribs and chicken wings are well-known to the locals for being unique and tasty. Lunch or dinner, live music or dancing, beer or cocktails; the American Bar has it all and is truly worth the visit! v

Life is short—Drink early! Located at the heart of Reykjavik, American Bar is easy to find. Once inside you’ll feel at home right away, especially if you’re an American; with decorations like football helmets (find your favorite team) and the American flag.

AMERICAN BAR Open: Mondays to Thursday from 11:00 am - 1:00 am - Fri - Sat: 11:00 am - 4:30 am - Sun: 11:00 am - 1:00 am

Issue four 61

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The English Pub Austurstræti 12 101 Reykjavik Tel: +354 578 0400 Mobile: +354 697 9003 www.enskibarinn.is.

The English Pub – Save water, drink beer For years, Iceland has enjoyed a diverse selection of restaurants and often sophisticated bars. However, one tiny grumble occasionally surfaced from the country’s A nglophiles – simply that there was no proper “pub”.

nd so the English Pub was born. From modest beginnings it has built a hearty reputation, seeking out, with the advice and guidance of its dedicated customers, the finest ale available to mankind. Today it offers its enthusiastic clientele the chance to try a great variety of beers, foreign brands, as well as many local beers that are a must try.

Whisky galore Not content to rest on its laurels, the English Pub has ventured north of its virtual border and also offers the finest selection of whiskies anywhere in the country. Acclaimed assortment of malts includes many of Scotland’s finest, ensuring numerous Icelanders and worldly travelers make

the pilgrimage to the pub’s humble door. Located at the very heart of downtown Reykjavik, the walls of the English Pub are adorned with hundreds of photographs – like an album of the city’s history just waiting to be explored over a quiet beer.

A sporting chance Live sporting coverage is amply catered for, with a choice of six big screens and two TV screens. Inside the pub there is room for up to 150 people, and an outdoor terrace can accommodate plenty more on those balmy Icelandic evenings! Whether it is football (Premier and Champions League), rugby or golf, there are always special offers when live events are being broadcast. Live music every night adds

to the atmosphere. In addition to the happy hour from 4-7pm every day, and for the ones feeling lucky, there is the Wheel of Fortune. Regulars like nothing more than to spin the wheel and chance a “Sorry” or preferably, win what used to be called a Yard of Ale. These days, it’s inevitably known as a meter of beer, but the winners don’t seem to mind! v

Located at the very heart of downtown Reykjavik, the walls of the English Pub are adorned with hundreds of photographs – like an album of the city’s history just waiting to be explored over a quiet beer.

THE ENGLISH PUB Opening hours: Sun-Thurs: 12:00 - 01:00 Fri-Sat: 12-04:30 | Open at 11 am from May 1st to September 1st.

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The Lebowski Bar Laugavegur 20 a 101 Reykjavik Tel: +354 552 2300 email: info@lebowskibar.is www.lebowskibar.is

Lebowski Bar THE REYKJAVIK VENUE THAT ROCKS! Walking into this American retro bar, is stepping back in time. And right away you know it’s the right bar for a few White Russians and a real good time. With carefully chosen music from the 50s to the 80s, the atmosphere in Lebowski Bar comes together giving the good vibration that the Dude would definitely abide by! Just walk in to see what condition your condition is in…

ll kinds of people come here,” the staff proudly explains. “Icelanders, tourists, everybody. With food and music that suits everyone, our customers range from age 20 to 85.” On those rare, but beautiful “warm” days in Iceland, Lebowski is the place to be: the huge outdoor terrace opens whenever the temperature rises above “a steamy 5°C.” But even with all this going for it, what Lebowski Bar prides itself most on is its delicious, diner-style menu with one-of-a-kind burgers, thick and creamy milkshakes, and oh yeah— White Russians. White Russians. Lebowski Bar has over 23 different variations of White Russians, the most popular one being the Cocaucasian, a regular White Russian topped with Cocoa Puffs. Some call it the brunch of champions, others Cocoa Puffs Russian … Either way, it’s delicious!

Where’s the Burger, Lebowski? Made with 150 grams of beef—that’s more than a quarter pound, for the metrically-challenged— Lebowski Bar’s classic burgers always hit the spot and boast a tempting array of toppings and sauces, from chili-marinated bacon to Japanese mayo.

With its perfect balance of sweet and savory, the Honey Boo, a honey-glazed bacon and BBQ-sauce burger, has been called “the best bacon burger in town” (and there are a lot of them to choose from). The Other Lebowski, a steak burger made from extra juicy beef tenderloin, is a staff favorite. Wanna go big? Check out the “Burger of the Month” specialty offerings. Past specialty burgers have included the Once Upon a Time in the West, made with steak tenderloin marinated in La Trappe Quadrupel Ale and served with Jack Daniels BBQ Sauce and caramelized onions, among other tasty toppings. Another limited-time option was the Sgt. Pepper’s Lonely Hearts Club Band, a piquant patty served—appropriately enough—with pepper cheese and chili sauce. Burgers are clearly the house specialty here. For non-beefy options, Lebowski Bar has something for you, too. Try the Bunny Lebowski Chicken Burger, which was declared “gorgeous” by one happy visitor on Trip Advisor, or The Stranger Veggie Burger. And if you’re looking for something lighter, there are plenty of bar snacks—from cheese-stuffed jalapeños to onion rings—to enjoy with your beer.

You’re not wrong, Walter. Lebowski Bar opens 11 am for lunch and there is a DJ every night from 9 pm. All big sports events are shown on all 5 Full HD screens. “This Reykjavík place is mind-bending,” Trip Advisor user Graham enthused after a recent visit. “The burgers are massive, the chips chunky and the beers and White Russians flow. There’s a happy hour to bring down Iceland’s high prices, and regular bands playing to bring the film’s rockin’ ethos to life.” Sounds good to us. But you know, that’s just, like, his opinion, man. v

Wanna go big? Check out the “Burger of the Month” specialty offerings. Past specialty burgers have included the Once Upon a Time in the West, made with steak tenderloin marinated in La Trappe Quadrupel Ale and served with Jack Daniels BBQ Sauce and caramelized onions, among other tasty toppings.

FIND IT ON FACEBOOK and Twitter Twitter: @LebowskiBar - Instagram: #LebowskiBar - Opening hours: 11:00 – 01:00 Sun-Thurs and 11:00 – 04:00 Fri/Sat Issue four 63

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Hressingarskálinn Austurstræti 20 101 Reykjavik Tel: +354 561 2240 www.hresso.is facebook.com/hressingarskalinn

Coffee house, restaurant & night club Hressingarskálinn is a warm place with plenty of seating and a great location in down town Reykjavik. It’s one of the few places that open at 9 AM to serve breakfast for hungry travelers or locals. Hressingarskálinn is a big part of Reykjavík’s history; the house was built in 1802 and the restaurant was established in 1932. The house has hosted Hressingarskálinn since 1932.

itting down for a coffee has a magnetic eff ect on Iceland’s most talented artists and writers. Smokers can have a seat on a heated patio with service all day. Over the summer, this place really comes alive. The yard is completely sheltered from the wind, allowing you to enjoy food and beverages in the bright sunlight. Thursday to Sunday is usually packed with people from all over the world. It’s a great place to meet strangers for

some interesting story sharing. Live bands play on Fridays and Saturdays, guaranteeing a crowd before all the popular DJ’s hit the floor with party tunes from 01:00-04:30 AM. The menu consists of great selections and offers everything from breakfast to a fantastic dinner. Hressingarskálinn offers Icelandic food for curious visitors. You can always try the traditional Icelandic meat soup. If not, there’s lamb or the fish stew – You won’t be

HRESSINGARSKÁLINN Opening hours: Mon-Thu: 9:00 am - 1:00 am Fri-Sat: 10:00 am - 4:30 am Sun: 9:00 am - 1:00 am

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disappointed. Hressingarskálinn is stylish and old at the same time, a history well preserved. Check out Hressingarskálinn for great prices and awesome fun! v

The menu consists of great selections and offers everything from breakfast to a fantastic dinner.

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Sakebarinn Laugavegur 2 101 Reykjavík Tel: +354 777 3311 www.facebook.com/Sakebarinn

The one and only choice for Sushi & Sticks …SO YOU CAN CHECK IT OFF YOUR BUCKET LIST Located in a loft on Laugavegur, the main shopping street, in one of Iceland’s oldest buildings (1886) is a great new restaurant with a great view and an amazing atmosphere called Sakebarinn. In its beautiful location, surrounded by windows that look down on Austurstræti, (an extension of Laugavegur leading to the Old Town) and up Skólavörðustígur (known for its cafés, local boutiques and art shops with native works), Sakebarinn lies in the very heart of downtown Reykjavík. In the winter you can see the Northern Lights from the balcony and in the summer, the amazing summer sunsets over the harbor.

he owners of Sakebarinn have a keen interest for the arts and crafts and a wealth of creative assets to play with. Although Sakebarinn has a strong foundation in pure Japanese cuisine the current style of the restaurant proves that the owners are not afraid to break some of the rules. To them sushi is meant to be an art form. Along with its handcrafted sushi, Sakebarinn also offers a selection of sticks and other meat courses, featuring whale and horse and anything that’s fresh and interesting that day. Why live on an island in the middle of the Atlantic if you’re not going take advantage of the natural fauna? Along with the local seafood, Sakebarinn also carries some more exotic things like octopus, just to keep it interesting, and with a little something for everyone. There’s love on every plate – You will feel

it with each taste. It’s no accident that the place is named Sakebarinn. It does feature the country’s largest selection of sake and a shot before a meal can truly enhance the feel of real Japanese dining. It comes in a surprising range of flavors too, everything from really girly fruit sake to the fire spewing alcohol content of some of the more butch types; potato sake, warm and cold sake and Japanese plum wine. And then of course are the bottles that didn’t make it on to the menu because no one could read the labels and therefore no one knows what they are. Mystery sake! Sakebarinn is a place born to showcase the talents the staff have collected over the years working at their first Sushi restaurant called Sushibarinn, which is located on the first floor in the same house. A year and a wild ride later, this sushi family has incorporated a

bunch of new and talented people with some great new recipes and skills they didn’t know they had and didn’t even know existed. The walls are hand painted by them, the wine selected by them, the menu is designed by them and the place is loved by them. They also love to present food so their clients become part of their love for sushi. The look on your face is what they are aiming for, the look of enjoyment. v

Along with the local seafood, Sakebarinn also carries some more exotic things like octopus, just to keep it interesting, and a little something for everyone.

SAKEBARINN Opening hours: Mon-Sun: 5:00 pm - 11:00 pm Issue four 65

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Den Danske Kro Ingólfsstræti 3 101 Reykjavík Tel: +354 552 0070 www.dendanske.is

When in Iceland, go Danish! A vibrant place on the Reykjavík social scene is Den Danske Kro or “The Danish Pub,” a popular downtown venue with locals with happy hour and with live music every night.

en Danske Kro serves a variety of beers, in addition to familiar names such as Tuborg and Carlsberg, the Danish Pub serves a selection of seasonal beers from both Denmark and Iceland. During the Christmas months, Den Danske Kro is the home of the Tuborg Christmas Beer or “Julebryg,” a popular drink in Iceland during the darkest months.

check out the interior of the pub and you’ll discover an off-the-wall design in its most literal sense! Den Danske Kro is a great place to hang out with friends, play darts, watch sports, enjoy the occasional sun and watch the world go by on the outside terrace. And to get into the spirit of things, we recommend you try a glass of the customary Gammel Dansk bitters, a traditional Danish schnapps.

Cozy Copenhagen style

The place to party

The Danes have a word to describe a cozy, friendly atmosphere—“hyggelig” and that’s something the owners of the Danish Pub have worked hard to create in this home away from home within a pub. Just

Den Danske Kro, as said before, is a popular venue among locals, and as soon as happy hour kicks off, the place starts filling up with people from the neighborhood and others who want to finish the

DEN DANSKE KRO Opening hours: Sun-Thurs 12:00 – 01:00 and Fri-Sat 12:00 – 05:00

WOW Power to the people

workday with a cold beer. Every night there’s live music where you can request your all-time favorite. During the weekend Den Danske Kro is open late. The bartenders will be happy to see you and you are welcome to dance and sing with the guests until the morning. v

Den Danske Kro serves a variety of beers, in addition to familiar names such as Tuborg and Carlsberg, the Danish Pub serves a selection of seasonal beers from both Denmark and Iceland.

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Bar Ananas & SmakkBarinn Klapparstigur 38 101 Reykjavik E-mail: bookings@barco.is Tel: +354 774 4 404

A taste of summer Whatever the season, you can count on it being summer at Bar Ananas and just to make things even more interesting, they’re now offering a brand new tapas experience in a cozy establishment downstairs called SmakkBarinn.

eel the beach in the snow! Or at least have a little flashback while drinking cocktails with pineapple. Yup, it’s a beach bar in Iceland! A tropical theme designed to conquer over the cold winter. How COOL… WARM! is that? So when you don’t feel like doing that northern lights tour or going with all the other tourists into the Blue Lagoon, you can always check out the happy hour at Bar Ananas. Drink some cocktails and have the surroundings constantly reminding you of warm weather and the beach. Unique in Iceland because nobody thought it would work – well, they’ve all been proven wrong. Bar Ananas is a popular spot on the Reykjavik nightlife scene with cool DJ’s all the time. Below is a restaurant called SmakkBarinn which serves Icelandic tapas. You can even order from them and eat it at the beach. No reason to give up a good tan!

SmakkBarinn A cozy place in the heart of Reykjavík, Smakk Barinn and Bar Ananas are just a short walk from Laugavegur, Reykjavik’s main shopping street. SmakkBarinn offers tapas in jars and it’s all Ice landic with many cool combinations of food to try out. For the sake of variety, their menu changes all the time. Eating at SmakkBarinn is one thrill after another; you can taste everything on the menu without having to sell your car. All their tapas dishes are presented in jars perfect both for dining out and also just for getting a snack with some friends and still come out happy you didn’t spend a fortune on a whole meal. The next best part is the beer… Oh yeah! You can taste that too in jars. Whatever you decide to do in Iceland, you might want to try out some Icelandic tapas and party the night away at Iceland’s all season beach bar. v

SmakkBarinn offers tapas in jars and it’s all Icelandic with many cool combinations of food to try out. For the sake of variety, their menu changes all the time. Eating at SmakkBarinn is one thrill after another; you can taste everything on the menu without having to sell your car.

You’ll find both Bar Ananas and SmakkBarinn on Facebook Issue four 67

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Slippbarinn Mýrargata 2 101 Reykjavik Tel: +354 560 8080 Email: slippbarinn@icehotels.is www.slippbarinn.is

Slippbarinn

The birthplace of Icelandic cocktail culture It has already been five years since Slippbarinn opened its doors at the trendy and delightful Icelandair Hotel Reykjavík Marina, but it is still as popular as ever. As it turns out, Reykjavík in 2012 was ripe for a cocktail revolution.

lippbarinn became an instant hit, with its emphasis on fresh ingredients, creativity and high-quality hand-crafted cocktails. Many fine bars have since followed in Slippbarinn’s footsteps, making the Reykjavík scene exciting to any cocktail connoisseur. But no one else quite lives up to the endless innovation, ambition and sheer style of the inimitable Slippbarinn.

subtle, but always deeply satisfying. An everevolving menu consists of dishes that combine fresh and hearty, wholesome and flavorful, with a dash of adventure. Some classics have earned a permanent place, however. Be sure not to miss the legendary charcuterie (created to share), the expertly prepared calamari, or what might be the best fish soup in the entire city!

Bright flavors and bold presentation

Your perfect harbor hangout

In the kitchen as in the bar, Slippbarinn is guided by its philosophy of flux and creativity. Starting with the solid foundation of a classic dish, the chefs bring their own twist, sometimes bold, sometimes

Almost every town in Iceland is a fishing village at heart. At Slippbarinn, you get right in touch with Reykjavík’s roots. Located on the old harbor, in view of a still-operational dock, it’s where you can watch

fishing vessels being repaired. Slippbarinn is the perfect place to while away an afternoon over a whiskey sour and the catch of the day. When it is time for a caffeine fix, head over to Slippbarinn’s baby brother, the adjoined gourmet café Kaffislippur. The pastries will melt in your mouth and you will dream of them ever after.

Slippbarinn is the perfect place to while away an afternoon over a whiskey sour and the catch of the day.

ARTISTS IN THE KITCHEN, ENTREPRENEURS AT THE BAR Opening hours: Sundays to Thursdays: 11:30 am – midnight / Fridays and Saturdays: 11:30 am – 1:00 am / Happy hour: every day from 3-6 pm.

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VOX Restaurant Tel.: +354 444 5050 | www.vox.is

Geiri Smart Restaurant Hverfisgata 30 | Tel.: +354 528 7050 | geirismart.is

EXTRAORDINARY RESTAURANTS FOR FINE DINING OR A CASUAL LUNCH VISIT APPETITEFORICELAND.COM FOR THE BEST WE HAVE TO OFFER

Icelandair Hotel Akureyri Tel.: +354 518 100 | www.aurorarestaurant.is

Satt Restaurant Tel.: +354 444 4050 | www.sattrestaurant.is

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Bazaar Hringbraut 121 101 Reykjavik Tel: 519-3510 www.bazaaroddsson.is Email: hello@bazaaroddsson.is

Karaoke in the middle of a restaurant?

Bazaar How on earth does that work? Well, thankfully, it is 100% soundproof, so you can enjoy your meal in peace while your friends sing their heads off!

azaar restaurant is part of the ODDSSON concept, located at the ODDSSON Hotel in a renovated warehouse not far from downtown Reykjavik. The idea of ODDSSON and Bazaar is to merge design, art, cuisine and culture to create a relaxing yet exciting atmosphere for both locals and guests. The old warehouse is a perfect fit for the concept where original exposed concrete walls are juxtaposed with velvet curtains and retro designer furniture to soften and warm the open space. The large curving windows reveal expansive views of the ocean, the mountains and the breathtaking sunsets.

Dinner and Karaoke Bazaar is an Italian restaurant, offering homemade pasta dishes and wood oven pizzas. Bazaar also

serves fresh fish daily and various meat dishes for meat lovers, but there are also excellent vegan dishes that are becoming quite popular, not only for vegans. The Bazaar burger is a best seller, with crispy parmesan fries and truffle mayo. Bazaar serves both lunch and dinner every day and during weekends there is also an impressive brunch menu.

Last but not least is the wildly popular karaoke room, a mirrored cubicle in the middle of the restaurant, and YES, it is 100% soundproof. You might think karaoke is boring or not for you, but the minute you step into this room, you start fighting for the mike.

BAZAAR RESTAURANT Opening hours: 11:30am-11pm -Happy hour from 2-6 pm.

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Bazaar’s white marble bar in the middle of the space attracts locals for happy hour from 2-6 pm. The bar’s emphasis is on local beers, classic cocktails and local and international whiskeys, bourbons and gins. In the summer, when the sun never sets, the beautiful patio attracts the locals who need to com pensate for the lack of sunlight in the winter! Come and enjoy a meal, or a glass of wine, and mingle on the patio among the locals. Last but not least is the wildly popular karaoke room, a mirrored cubicle in the middle of the restaurant, and YES, it is 100% soundproof. You might think karaoke is boring or not for you, but the minute you step into this room, you start fighting for the mike. Welcome to Bazaar, we look forward to seeing you! v

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Yogafood Hringbraut 121 101 Reykjavik Tel: 519-2290 www.yogafood.is Email: tobba@yogafood.is

Taste the love

Yogafood

Yogafood is a new restaurant located at ODDSSON Hotel in the “JL House,” not far from downtown Reykjavik. Whether you want to grab some fresh red beet juice, a green smoothie to take on your trip or sit down for a healthy lunch, Yogafood has it all.

ogafood serves a variety of healthy breakfast items and offers a delicious lunch menu, all gluten-free and with no added sugar. Yoga food’s atmosphere is quite unique as it is located at ODDSSON Hotel where the designers changed an old warehouse into a haven for furniture lovers, featuring furniture from designers all over the world. Despite original raw concrete walls and bare ventilation ducts, Yogafood offers a cozy environ ment with its thick velvet curtains and colorful furniture.

Nourishing the chakras Yogafood’s concept designer is Thorbjörg, an Icelandic internationally recognized nutritionist and author of many lifestyle books and health

cookbooks. Her latest is about Yoga and Yogafood. She has lived in Denmark for the past 30 years but moved back home last summer to fulfill her dream of opening up her own health food restaurant. The concept of the food is based on vitality and energy including the 7 chakras, which for those who are familiar with yoga, know that all have their specific meaning and qualities. The juices and drinks served at Yogafood, are made with a specific chakra in mind, and you can choose off the menu according to what chakra you want to strengthen. If you don’t know anything about yoga or the chakras, no worries, just come and enjoy the tasty and high-quality food. On the menu, you will, for example, find a Moroc can vegetarian dish, a deeply satisfying vegan Indian dish, a hearty Chili sin carne with a quinoa

salsa salad or a colorful Caribbean veggie mix with coconut-carrot salad. If you want something lighter, grab a gluten-free sandwich with pesto and grilled zucchini and a refreshing sun energy juice to go with it. And don’t miss out on the delectable sugar-free desserts; they look amazing, and taste even better. The aim at Yogafood is for you to TASTE THE LOVE in every bite you take. v

Yogafood’s concept designer is Thorbjörg, an Icelandic internationally recognized nutritionist and author of many lifestyle books and health cook books. Her latest is about Yoga and Yogafood.

YOGAFOOD Opening hours: 7am-5pm Issue four 71

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Kopar Restaurant Geirsgata 3 101 Reykjavik Tel: +354 567 2700 www.koparrestaurant .is / info@koparrestaurant .is

Kopar Restaurant by the old harbor KOPAR RESTAURANT IS SITUATED BY REYKJAVIK‘S ROMANTIC HARBOR, IN ONE OF THE OLD GREEN FISHERMAN‘S HUTS.

he fishing industry still thrives in Reykjavik, so the old harbor is full of life. In the morning, fishermen go out to sea and return later with their catch of the day. As you stand on the pier you can feel the history of Reykjavik and watch the harbor life: fishing boats, fishermen, the catch, and young kids with their rods trying their luck off the pier. Meanwhile passersby are walking about and enjoying life. This fresh and energetic atmosphere of the old harbor is all part of the experience when you dine at Kopar. Kopar is a seafood restaurant

featuring locally caught seafood and crustaceans. They are especially proud of their crab soup, made with Icelandic rock crab from Hvalfjordur. Kopar offers a variety of Icelandic produce, including wild game, although the main emphasis is seafood, the fruit of the ocean. Kopar‘s head chef, Ylfa, is a member of the gold medal winning national culinary team. She pre pares the seafood in a unique and delicate manner, intent on giving you an unforgetable experience. Delight yourself with great service and atmosphere,

delicious food and the best view in town. When visiting Reykjavik, enjoying a night out at Kopar is a must. v

Kopar‘s head chef, Ylfa, is a member of the gold medal winning national culinary team. She prepares the seafood in a unique and delicate manner, intent on giving you an unforgetable experience.

KOPAR RESTAURANT Opening hours: Mondays to Thursday from 11:30-22:30 - Fridays from 11:30-23:30 - Saturdays from 12:00-23:30 - Sundays from 18:00-22:30

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NATURE PARADISE IN BREIDAFJORDUR AND VESTMANNAEYJAR ICELAND'S LARGEST & SMALLEST INHABITED ISLANDS

brjánslækur flatey stykkishólmur

reykjavík

landeyjahöfn vestmannaeyjar

Issue four 73

At the movies

Heartstone When this issue went to print, Gudmundur Arnar Gudmundson’s first full-length film Heartstone had won 37 international awards and his first short film, Whale Valley, had just won its 48th award. It’s safe to say that this young screenwriter and director is going places. Photos: Ingibjörg Torfadóttir and Roxana Reiss, courtesy of SF Studios Production & Join Motion Pictures

We first met Gudmundur in 2013 when his film Whale Valley was about to be premiered at Cannes, where it later won the Short Film Special Distinction Ex-aequo Award. At the time Gudmundur had been named as one of the up and coming directors in Iceland, and he’s certainly lived up to that. FROM FINE ARTS TO FILMS Born in 1982, Gudmundur did not go to an official film school but studied fine arts at the Iceland Academy of the Arts from which he graduated in 2005. “You could say I was self-educated as a filmmaker because I’ve sought out this knowledge from books, courses and by working with other filmmakers,” says Gudmundur. The first films he made were experimental, he says, and were made in connection with his study of the fine arts. Then came his two short films, Ártún and Whale Valley. “I also worked as an assistant to Icelandic screenwriter and director Rúnar Rúnarsson when he made the film Eldfjall (2011). That was the possibly the best film school I could’ve ever enrolled in.” INSPIRATIONAL YOUTH The idea behind Heartstone comes from Gudmundur’s formative years in Þórshöfn, Langanes which is in Northeast Iceland. “It’s inspired by my friends and family, and still it’s fiction

WOW Power to the people

“Ideas come to me in different forms; feelings, short moments that spark interest, nature and dreams.”

because as soon as you start writing the material changes and evolves and the story and its characters take on their own life,” says Gudmundur. The movie is about two teenage boys Thor and Christian that live in a remote fishing village. As one tries to win the heart of a girl the other discovers new feelings toward his best friend. It’s a story about friendship, love and the nuclear family. Gudmundur says he wrote the first draft for a script ten years ago. “I then realized I had to have more experience and trust to make this story into a full length film. That’s

when I started experimenting with short films and developing as a director. You could say that this film has been in the works for ten years, evolving, bit by bit. FIRST DRAFTS Having written the scripts for all of his films, Gudmundur says there’s a certain freedom that comes with that even though it can be a difficult process. “Ideas come to me in different forms; feelings, short moments that spark interest, nature and dreams. To begin the process, I let my mind wander and then write down anything that comes

Born in 1982, Gudmundur did not go to an official film school but studied fine arts at the Iceland Academy of the Arts from which he graduated in 2005. “You could say I was self-educated as a filmmaker because I’ve sought out this knowledge from books, courses and by working with other filmmakers,” says Gudmundur.

up. I have only one rule; I don’t edit or censor myself until I’ve done that first draft, no matter how weird my ideas are. Most often I find the characters first, and then I take a look at their environment. When I start the rewriting phase, I categorize the material and hone in on the connections. Then, once the script is looking more finished, the production process begins, step by step. The only thing I can say to those who are interested in filmmaking, and what has been the most important to me, is to follow your intuition and try to be consistent have only values in everything that you choose, no matter how big or small. The only thing you can control is doing your best in the moment, and that is why filmmaking is so exciting. It’s a living form of art where obstacles have a reputation for being gifts in disguise.” Gudmundur says he seeks inspiration from many great people in the field. “I can’t choose just one role model but what I do admire is when directors take chances and try to broaden that frame of the film industry. That inspires me. SO MANY AWARDS With over 70 awards under his belt, from various film festivals and organizations around the world, Gudmundur says he really enjoys it when people relate to his films. “It’s that feeling of being able to move people. And when films get such a good reputation, it’s easier to get the support needed to make the next one. That may be the most important thing here; to be able to work on the thing you love and that people will relate to the story and its characters,” Gudmundur says. “Heartstone is about human emotions, friendship, love and family. It is something people everywhere can relate to. But it was amazing to witness how the film touched such a broad age group, from kids and teenagers to their grandparents. After Heartstone’s success, Gudmundur has been offered a lot of projects and collaborations which he is reviewing, but he’s also working on a new script of his own. “It’s another coming of age story but very different from anything I’ve done before and that’s very exciting. My dream project is to make a big adventure film and I fully intend for that dream to become a reality in the future. v

Don’t miss it

Heartstone is screened at Bíó Paradís this summer. Go to bioparadis.is to get tickets.

All you need in one place • Skólavör›ustígur 19 tel.: (+354) 552 1890 SWEATERS AND SOUVENIERS, NO KNITTING MATERIAL:

• Radisson Blu, Hótel SAGA tel.: (+354) 562 4788 • Laugavegur 53b tel.: (+354) 562 1890 www.handknit.is

Issue four 75

Base HotelHostel at Ásbrú

STAY OVER

It’s all about the Base The recently opened Base HotelHostel at Ásbrú is a budget accommodation conveniently located near Keflavik Airport on the Reykjanes Peninsula. Base HotelHostel is at a former NATO base used by the US Army until 2006. The hotel is located in two buildings where US Army families once resided and it embraces the 55-year history of the army’s presence in Iceland in its overall theme, with quirky little touches and photographs. “We looked to the area’s history and decided to create a positive concept revolving around that history. A big part of the design process was creating a warm, comfortable and fun space that could hold all the modern art that’s now on display. To add to the challenge, everything we did must be low-cost and to keep costs down we kept a lot of the furniture that was left in the house. A good example of that are the rocking chairs found in most rooms, which were used by the army families during the military’s stay in Iceland,” says Leifur Welding, hotel designer. PERFECT FOR STOPOVERS Base HotelHostel is perfect for short stopovers in Iceland and as a base for exploring the Reykjanes Peninsula and Southwest Iceland. The affordable rooms cater to all types of travelers. “Base Hotel has a lot to offer, the lone traveler

WOW Power to the people

just looking for a place to rest, the couple for a fun place to be, or the family needing more space. With our community kitchen, laundry room, TV lounges, library, game room, 24-hour reception and bar, and shuttle to and from the airport we try to meet everyone’s needs without abandoning our policy of being the most affordable accommodation in the area. The Base is not just a place to stay, it’s a place to live, even if it’s just for a few days,” says Base hotel manager Richard Eckard. At Base HotelHostel you’ll find hostelstyle dorm rooms for the extremely cost conscious, suites for the private but thrifty

Get comfortable and check out www.basehotel.is for more infor mation and booking.

and anything in between for everyone else who just like to stay within their budget but still get a good night’s rest. YOUR BASE IN ICELAND Because the Base HotelHostel is located close to Keflavik Airport a lot of precious time is saved on arrivals and departures for those on a brief WOW Stopover in Iceland. This affords guests more time to explore the Reykjanes Peninsula, a geologically young area displaying Iceland’s magnificent nature. From the Northern Lights to helicopter flights— whale watching to geothermal springs, the Reykjanes Peninsula’s got it all! v

Never mind the chocolate, puffin dolls or the key ring. If you really want a souvenir that will last, a tattoo is the way to go.

WEBSTORE

You can also shop our merchandise and more at our shop or online at www.reykjavikink.is /reykjavikink

/reykjavikink

reykjavikink@reykjavikink.is

We are open Monday – Saturday 12 pm-8pm - We are located on Frakkastíg 7, 101 Reykjavík

Issue four 77

design

Bryndis has exhibited her work in the US, Amsterdam, Tokyo, London, Helsinki, Frankfurt and Reykjavik as well as several times at the prestigious Stockholm Furniture Fair.

Through the noise Since graduating from the Iceland Academy of the Arts with a BA in textiles in 1999, award-winning designer and artist Bryndís Bolladóttir has become known for successfully implementing sound absorbers and diffusers, aimed to improve the acoustics and ambiance of interior spaces. Text: Gerður Harðardóttir Images: Anna María Sigurjónsdóttir

Bryndís’ work effectively exhibits the interaction between functional and esthetically pleasing installations, with an emphasis firmly on playfulness, addressed through various setups and functions. ABSORBING THE SOUND Mainly inspired by architecture, design and art, Bryndís’ best-known project line is KULA, a collection of half spheres of different sizes and colors with a surface layer made of Icelandic wool. The KULA collection of intriguing and colorful sound absorbers and installations has been successfully certified by sound testing laboratories, achieving a “Class A” rating by international performance standards for an effective reduction in reflective sound levels, with sound absorbing and diffusion qualities that can significantly improve the acoustics of a room. The absorbers, coexisting with diffusers, minimize possible acoustical problems often found in large, open spaces. Mounted on walls, mirrors and ceilings, the KULA diffusers have unlimited installation possibilities and can be used by themselves as well as integrated with absorbers, to minimize possible acoustical problems. MORE SPHERES Within the product line of KULA, Bryndís has skillfully played with the round shape of the semi-sphere to create playful and highly original products such as wall mounted hooks, toys, lights and trivets, each made out of small balls of felt. Through her work Bryndis, puts lots of emphasis on working almost exclusively with Icelandic raw materials, mainly the Icelandic wool that has an exceptional insular quality which works beautifully for sound absorbers when applied correctly. The evolution of local resources and excellent craftwork is important to Bryndís. Bryndis has exhibited her work in the US, Amsterdam, Tokyo, London, Helsinki, Frankfurt and Reykjavik as well as several times at the prestigious Stockholm Furniture Fair. She has previously collaborated with the Danish design company Norman Copenhagen on her KULA collection of hooks and trivets. v Bryndís runs her own production studio in Reykjavik. For more information go to bryndisbolladottir.com

WOW Power to the people

eldur Workshop is a family business created and operated by furrier Heiðar Sigurðsson and his wife Kristín Birgisdóttir. They specialize in the design and production of genuine high-quality fur garments and accessories. The main ambition of the business is to produce beautiful designs from prime quality fur that are both classic and modern. Feldur Workshop also provides mending services for fur coats and other fur articles. This service is a part of their desire to make their creations and fur products in general, items that will last a lifetime and even be passed on to the next generation.

The highlight for many visitors is the opportunity to observe the master furrier himself. Feldur Workshop is located at Snorrabraut 56 in downtown Reykjavik. The workshop is both a stylish and cosy, displaying some of the fur products they‘ve designed, while others are handmade on site.

If you are interested in seeing Feldur Workshop’s products, we recommend a visit to the workshop on Snorrabraut 56. Alternatively, there are a number of stores in Iceland that carry a selection of their items which you also can see online at www.feldur.is.

SHOP SNORRABRAUT 56 | T. 588 0488 | FELDUR.IS

The Vatnajokull Region

Where awesome is defined In the Region of Vatnajökull, you’ll find out the real reason why Iceland got its name. The area is dominated by Vatnajökull Glacier, the largest glacier in the world outside the Arctic regions. You’ll also find some of Iceland’s most popular tourist attractions there,such as the spectacular Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon, Skaftafell, the jewel in Vatnajökull National Park and Mt. Hvannadalshnúkur, the highest peak in Iceland and a popular hike. Photos: Jón Óskar Hauksson, courtesy of Visit Vatnajokull

HeThe Vatnajökull Region is filled with striking contrasts with its black beaches, white glaciers, red fiery volcanoes, green birch forest and the blue Atlantic Ocean. Nature‘s dynamism combined with its spellbinding serenity make a visit to the Region of Vatnajökull a never-to-be-forgotten experience. Wildlife is rich in the Region of Vatnajökull, especially in the spring and summer, with thousands of migrating birds such as puffins and Arctic tern passing through. Herds of reindeer are also a common sight, and if you’re lucky you’ll spot a seal at Jökulsárlón or an Arctic fox running through the land. You will also find many companies that offer all sorts of activities year round, diverse accommodation and great restaurants with local food.

Hornafjordur Search & Rescue Team and the Vatnajokull Region. The preparation for the show starts during the day when the organizers sail between the icebergs and place over one hundred candles on them. The candles are lit and the show starts at 11 pm with fireworks shot up from different locations in the lagoon.

Höfn has its complement of lovely restaurants offering this precious product as well as other local specialties all year round. Höfn is also a great base for exploring the magnificent landscape of Vatnajökull National Park, and be sure to drop by the park’s visitor center in Gamlabúð, a beautiful historic building by the harbor.

ADVENTURES “OFF THE BEATEN TRACK”

ACTIVITY, ACCOMMODATION AND RESTAURANTS

The Region of Vatnajökull in Southeast Iceland spans over 200 km of the Ring Road from Lómagnúpur in the west to Hvalnes Peninsula in the east. It covers the accessible southern side of Vatnajökull Glacier, an area particularly delightful to photography enthusiasts with its myriad of magnificent views of its glaciers and mountains

Much of the activity in the Region of Vatnajökull revolves around the glacier and the surrounding nature. You can choose between glacier walks and ice climbing, a thrilling snowmobile ride on Vatnajökull or a comfortable tour of this mighty glacier in a super jeep. The area also offers ATV tours and geothermal baths at Hoffell, reindeer excursions, a visit to Thorbergssetur, a cultural museum, a local mineral stone collection, a handicraft store, the petting zoo at Hólmur and much more. There are various possibilities in accommodations, all of which offer a warm welcome by knowledgeable hosts. And when you are ready for a break, be sure to ask for the local beer Vatnajökull, brewed from icebergs from Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon and the locally sourced Arctic thyme. ACCESSIBLE YEAR ROUND

THE FIREWORKS AT JÖKULSARLÓN The annual fireworks show at Jökulsarlón Glacier Lagoon on August 12th is an outstanding event. Illuminated icebergs bathed in color from the grand fireworks in nature’s most spectacular environment creates an extraordinary experience for spectators. The fireworks show is an annual event held for the 17th time, and through the years the number of visitors has been escalating. The fireworks show is a collaboration between the

WOW Power to the people

in the extended brightness of the summer. Whether kayaking on Heinaberg Glacier Lagoon in Vatnajökull National Park or exploring the Lónsöræfi Nature Reserve, replete with deep, rugged canyons, green valleys and colorful mountains, you will surely enjoy one of Iceland’s largest protected areas. HÖFN Höfn, the only town in the area, is a lively fishing town with a population of 1,800. Known as Iceland‘s lobster capital,

The Vatnajökull Region is well accessible all year due to good weather conditions and frequent transportation. Eagle Air has a daily flight from Reykjavík to Höfn Airport during the summertime and five days a week during other seasons. Buses between Reykjavík and Höfn (Strætó) are scheduled daily throughout the year. There are also three car rental companies in Höfn. For more information, go to www.visitvatnajokull.is

Issue four 81

32 discount stores around Iceland Ísafjörður

Akureyri 2 stores

FIND YOUR Stykkishólmur

STORE Borgarnes Akranes Geysir

Gullfoss

Hveragerði Reykjavík Reykjanesbær Kópavogur 2 stores

Garðabær Hafnarfjörður Mosfellsbær

Selfoss

Seljalandsfoss

20 stores

Skógafoss 82

WOW Power to the people

Vestmannaeyjar

Reynisfjara

Voted most popular company in Iceland

2014 - 2015 - 2016

Chosen by the Icelandic Buisness Magazine

2014

2015

Egilsstaรฐir

HOURS

OPENING

2016

Monday-Thursday Friday Saturday Sunday

11:00 - 18:30 10:00 - 19:30 10:00 - 18:00 12:00 - 18:00 Issue four 83

Pour remplir ce formulaire, utilisez uniquement des majuscules. Si vous faites une erreur, notre personnel vous donnera un nouveau formulaire.

s Declaration Fo

The U.S. Custom

Chaque voyageur entrant ou chef de famille entrant doit fournir les informations suivantes (UNE SEULE déclaration par famille)

What is this and why do I need to fill this out? Before you arrive in the U.S., you will need to fill out the US Customs Declaration Form. If you‘re traveling with your family only the head of the family needs to fill out the form. When you arrive on US soil you will hand this form to the U.S. Customs agent.

Français Le formulaire de déclaration en douane américaine

Qu’est-ce que c’est et pourquoi dois-je en remplir un? Avant votre arrivée aux États-Unis, vous devrez remplir le formulaire de déclaration en douane américaine. Si vous voyagez avec votre famille, seul le chef de famille doit le remplir. Lorsque vous arrivez sur le sol américain, vous donnez ce formulaire aux autorités douanières américaines. Si vous voyagez avec des fruits, nous vous recommandons de les jeter avant ou pendant votre vol vers les États-Unis mais que se passe-t-il si vous répondez « oui » à l’une de ces questions ? Ce n’est pas aussi terrible que ça en a l’air et dire la vérité vous évitera pas mal d’ennuis et une amende pouvant aller jusqu’à 300 $. Consultez la page 86 pour obtenir plus d’informations si vous répondez « OUI ».

Nom, Prénom, Initiale du deuxième prénom.

Date de naissance Jour/Mois/Année.

Nombre de personnes voyageant avec vous.

(a) Adresse Aux États-Unis (Destination ou nom de l‘hôtel) (b) Ville (c) Etat

Lieu de délivrace du passeport (nom du pays)

Numéro de passeport

Pays de résidence

Pays visités pendant ce voyage avant l‘arrivée aux aux Etats-Unis

9. Ligne aérienne / numéro du vol / Nom de vaisseau 10. Vous voyagez pour raison d‘affaires: OUI/NON 11.

Je suis / nous sommes porteurs de (a) fruits, plantes, produits alimentaires, insectes: OUI/NON (b) viandes, animaux, produits provenant d‘animaux ou d’animaux sauvages: OUI/NON (c) agents pouvant causer des maladies, cultures cellulaires, escargots: OUI/NON

E A R LY B I R D C AT C H E S After their time in Iceland, Dan and Sarah arrive early to the airport so they can enjoy the last hours there before continuing their journey.

GIVE YOUR SELF MORE TIME TO SHOP

F I N D F U R T H E R I N F O R M AT I O N AT W W W. K E FA I R P O R T. I S/ E A R LY

WOW Power to the people

This Space For Official Use Only

U.S. Customs and Border Protection Welcomes You to the United States

Each arriving traveler or responsible family member must provide the following information (only ONE written declaration per family is required). The term "family" is defined as "members of a family residing in the same household who are related by blood, marriage, domestic relationship, or adoption."

12. J‘ai / nous avons touché ou traité du bétail: OUI/NON 13.

Je suis / nous sommes porteurs d‘espèces ou d‘instruments monétaires d‘une valeur équivalente en monnaie des États Unis ou de tout autre pays (Voir définition d‘instruments monétaire au verso) á plus de 10 000$ US: OUI/NON

14.

Je suis / nous sommes en possession de marchandises commerciales (articles des tinés à la vente, échantillon de démonstration ou tout autre article autresque des effets personnels): OUI/NON

15.

Résidents - la valeur totale des biens, y compris la marchandise commerciale, que j’ai/nous avons achetés ou acquis à l’étranger (y compris les cadeaux pour une autre personne, mais pas les articles envoyés aux États-Unis) et que je/ nous rapportons aux États-Unisest de: montant en USD

Deutsch

FORM APPROVED OMB NO.1651-0009

19 CFR 122.27, 148.12, 148.13, 148.110, 148.111, 1498; 31 CFR 5316

1 Family Name First (Given) 2 Birth date

MAGNUSSON HAKON 0 2

Month

Was ist das und warum muss ich dieses Formular ausfüllen?

VALUR Year 8 0 2

Middle Day

Die US-amerikanische Zollerklärung

1 7

3 Number of Family members traveling with you 4 (a) U.S. Street Address (hotel name/destination)

Vor der Ankunft in den USA müssen Sie das Formular der US-Zoller klärung ausfüllen. Wenn Sie mit Ihrer Familie unterwegs sind, braucht nur das Familienoberhaupt dieses Formular ausfüllen. Wenn Sie US-Boden betreten, übergeben Sie dieses Formular dem US-Zoll.

BOSTON HARBOR HOTEL 70 ROWES WHARF (c) State MA BOSTON Passport issued by (country) ICELAND Passport number A0182382 Country of Residence ICELAND FRANCE ~ SPAIN Countries visited on this (b) City

5 6 7 8

The transportation of currency or monetary instruments, regardless of the amount, is legal. However, if you bring in to or take out of the United States more than $10,000 (U.S. or foreign equivalent, or a combination of both), you are required by law to file a report on FinCEN 105 (formerly Customs Form 4790) with U.S. Customs and Border Protection. Monetary instruments include coin, currency, travelers checks and bearer instruments such as personal or cashiers checks and stocks and bonds. If you have someone else carry the currency or monetary instrument for you, you must also file a report on FinCEN 105. Failure to file the required report or failure to report the total amount that you are carrying may lead to the seizure of all the currency or monetary instruments, and may subject you to civil penalties and/or criminal prosecution. SIGN ON THE OPPOSITE SIDE OF THIS FORM AFTER YOU HAVE READ THE IMPORTANT INFORMATION ABOVE AND MADE A TRUTHFUL DECLARATION.

Wenn Sie auf Ihrer Reise Obst mit sich führen, empfehlen wir Ihnen, dies vor oder während dem Flug in die USA zu entsorgen. Aber was geschieht, wenn Sie eine dieser Fragen mit Ja beantworten? Das ist nicht so schrecklich, wie Sie vielleicht denken, und Ehrlichkeit spart Ihnen eine Menge Ärger und eine mögliche Geldstrafe von bis zu 300$. Siehe Seite 86 für weitere Informationen zur Antwort JA.

trip prior to U.S. arrival

9 Airline/Flight No. or Vessel Name

WW-125

10 The primary purpose of this trip is business:

Yes

(a) fruits, vegetables, plants, seeds, food, insects:

Yes

(b) meats, animals, animal/wildlife products:

Yes

(d) soil or have been on a farm/ranch/pasture:

Yes

12 I have (We have) been in close proximity of livestock: Yes

x x x x x

Yes

11 I am (We are) bringing

Bitte verwenden Sie beim Ausfüllen dieses Formulars nur Großbuchstaben. Falls Sie einen Fehler machen wird Ihnen unsere Crew ein neues CBP Description of Articles (List may continue on another CBP Form 6059B) Value Use Only Formular geben. Jeder ankommende Reisende bzw. jedes verantwortliche Familienmitglied muss die folgenden Angaben machen (es ist pro Familie nur EINE schriftliche Erklärung erforderlich)

(such as touching or handling) 13 I am (We are) carrying currency or monetary instruments over $10,000 U.S. or foreign equivalent: (see definition of monetary instruments on reverse) 14 I have (We have) commercial merchandise: (articles for sale, samples used for soliciting orders, or goods that are not considered personal effects)

15 RESIDENTS—the total value of all goods, including commercial merchandise I/we have purchased or acquired abroad, (including gifts for someone else but not items mailed to $ the U.S.) and am/are bringing to the U.S. is:

Visiteurs - La valeur totale de tous les articles qui resteront aux États-Unis, y compris la marchandise commerciale est de : USD

VISITORS—the total value of all articles that will remain in the U.S., including commercial merchandise is:

0 0

Read the instructions on the back of this form. Space is provided to list all the items you must declare.

Signez sur la ligne pour déclarer que votre déclaration est véridique.

Signature

Familienname, Vorname, Zweiter Vorname

Geburtsdatum / Tag/Monat/Jahr

Anzahl der mit Ihnen reisenden Familienmitglieder

(a) Adresse/genaue Anschrift in den USA (Name des Hotels/Reiseziel) (b) Stadt CBP Form 6059B (04/14) (c) Staat

Total

PAPERWORK REDUCTION ACT STATEMENT: An agency may not conduct or sponsor an information collection and a person is not required to respond to this information unless it displays a current valid OMB control number. The control number for this collection is 1651-0009. The estimated average time to complete this application is 4 minutes. Your response is mandatory. If you have any comments regarding the burden estimate you can write to U.S. Customs and Border Protection Office of Regulations and Rulings, 90 K Street, NE, 10th Floor, Washington, DC 20229.

I HAVE READ THE IMPORTANT INFORMATION ON THE REVERSE SIDE OF THIS FORM AND HAVE MADE A TRUTHFUL DECLARATION.

X Hákon Valur Magnússon

02/26/2017

Date (month/day/year)

CBP Form 6059B (04/14)

MORE TIME FOR SHOPPING

M O RMEOTRI EM E TIME F O R FSOHROSPHPOI NP GP I N G

E X P E C T E D R U S H H O U R S AT C H E C K I N

E X P EECXTPEEDCRTUES E CCKHIENC K I N DHRH UO SU H RHSOAT URC S HAT

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They use their taxfor free They usetime theirfor time tax free shopping at theat airport beforebefore shopping the airport catching their flight back home. catching their flight back home.

They use their time for tax free shopping at the airport before catching their flight back home.

23.00

Customs Declaration

22.00

(d) terre. J‘ai / Nous avons visité une exploitation agricole en dehors des Etats-Unis: OUI/NON

21.00

U.S. Customs and Border Protection is responsible for protecting the United States against the illegal importation of prohibited items. CBP officers have the authority to question you and to examine you and your personal property. If you are one of the travelers selected for an examination, you will be treated in a courteous, professional, and dignified manner. CBP Supervisors and Passenger Service Representatives are available to answer your questions. Comment cards are available to compliment or provide feedback. Important Information U.S. Residents—declare all articles that you have acquired abroad and are bringing into the United States. Visitors (Non-Residents)—Declare the value of all articles that will remain in the United States. Declare all articles on this declaration form and show the value in U.S. dollars. For gifts, please indicate the retail value. Duty—CBP officers will determine duty. U.S. residents are normally entitled to a duty-free exemption of $800 on items accompanying them. Visitors (non-residents) are normally entitled to an exemption of $100. Duty will be assessed at the current rate on the first $1,000 above the exemption. Agricultural and Wildlife Products—To prevent the entry of dangerous agricultural pests and prohibited wildlife, the following are restricted: Fruits, vegetables, plants, plant products, soil, meat, meat products, birds, snails, and other live animals or animal products. Failure to declare such items to a Customs and Border Protection Officer/ Customs and Border Protection Agriculture Specialist/Fish and Wildlife Inspector can result in penalties and the items may be subject to seizure. Controlled substances, obscene articles, and toxic substances are generally prohibited entry.

Issue four 85

s Declaration Fo

The U.S. Custom 5.

Pass ausgestellt von (Land)

Passnummer

Ständiger Wohnsitz (Land)

Auf dieser Reise besuchte Länder vor Ihrer Ankunft in den USA

(c) Krakheitserreger, Zellkulturen, Schnecken: JA/NEIN (d) Erde, oder waren Sie auf einem Bauernhof/ einer Ranch/ Weide: JA/NEIN 12. Ich war (wir waren) in unmittelbarer Nähe von Vieh/ Nutztieren (z.B. Anfassen oder Umgang damit): JA/NEIN

9. Fluggesellschaft/Flugnummer oder Name des Schiffes 10. Der Hauptanlass dieser Reise ist geschäftlich: JA/NEIN 11. Ich (wir) führen folgende Waren ein: (a) Früchte, Pflanzen, Lebensmittel, Insekten: JA/NEIN (b) Fleisch, Tiere, Tier- oder Wildprodukte: JA/NEIN

13.

Ich führe (wir führen) mehr als $US 10,000 in Bargeld oder Zahlungsmitteln oder den Gegenwert in anderen ausländischen Währungen mit (Siehe die Definition von Gegenstände zum persönlichen Gebrauch gelten): JA/NEIN

14. Ich führe (wir führen) kommerzielle Waren mit. (Verkaufsware, Muster zur Werbung von

Aufträgen oder Artikel, die nicht als Gegenstände zum persönlichen Gebrauch gelten): JA/NEIN

15.

US-Bürger - der Gesamtwert aller Waren, einschließlich Handelswaren die ich/wir erworben habe(n) oder im Ausland erworben habe(n) (einschließlich Geschenke für andere, nicht aber Sendungen in die USA) und in die USA einführe(n) lautet: Betrag in US-$ Besucher - der Gesamtwert aller Artikel einschließlich Handelswaren, die in den USA verbleiben ist: $

Auf der Linie unterschreiben, um zu erklären, dass Sie eine wahrheitsgemäße Erklärung abgeben.

What happens if you say “Yes”? Sometimes we just want to avoid trouble and think that saying NO to everything will make things easier. That’s not the case and in fact, it can even cause more problems, delays and even fines. Be truthful on your Customs Declaration form and all will be good. Worst case scenario they’ll confiscate your banana but we promise you can buy a new one once you’re out of the airport. Yes to 11 (a), (b) or (c) Your customs officer will refer you to an agricultural specialist who will ask you additional questions and might ask to inspect your food items. In many cases, you’ll be allowed to take your food with you. This often depends on where you got the food and how it’s been processed. Fruits, vegetables and raw meats are usually confiscated. You can research ahead of time at canibringit.com which is a U.S. Government run site. Yes to 11 (d) and/or no. 12: An agricultural specialist will ask to inspect the soil or clothes, shoes or luggage that has been in contact with livestock or farm soil to determine if they contain any dangerous organisms. If they find potentially dangerous substances they will disinfect your items before allowing you to bring them in. For bringing soil into the US, you need a permit. Yes to no. 13 or 14: If you are carrying currency worth over $10,000 you will simply be given a special form to fill out for the Treasury Department. For items intended for sale, you should have already filed a “formal entry” before embarking on your journey. You could do so “on the spot” but these matters are subject to many rules and regulations and can be complicated.

Français

Deutsch

Le formulaire de déclaration en douane américaine

Die US-amerikanische Zollerklärung

Que se passe-t-il si vous répondez « OUI » ?

Was passiert, wenn Sie JA sagen?

Certaines personnes semblent penser que répondre « non » à toutes les réponses leur évitera des ennuis. Ce n’est pas le cas et en fait, cela peut même vous causer plus de problèmes, des retards et des amendes. Dites la vérité sur votre formulaire de déclaration en douane et tout ira bien. Dans le pire des cas, ils confisqueront votre banane mais promis, vous pourrez en acheter une nouvelle à votre arrivée à l’aéroport.

Einige Leute nehmen an, dass sie keinerlei Ärger bekommen, wenn sie überall NEIN sagen. Das ist nicht so. Tatsächlich kann dies sogar mehr Probleme, Verzögerungen und sogar Geldbußen verursachen. Seien Sie bei Ihrer Zollerklärung ehrlich, und alles wird gut. Im schlimmsten Fall konfisziert man Ihre Banane, aber wir versprechen Ihnen, dass Sie sich eine neue kaufen können, sobald Sie den Flughafen verlassen haben.

Oui aux questions 11 (a), (b) ou (c) Votre agent douanier vous dirigera vers un spécialiste agricole qui vous posera des questions supplémentaires et qui pourra inspecter vos fruits. Dans de nombreux cas, vous sera autorisé à garder votre nourriture. Cela dépend souvent de la provenance la nourriture et de la façon dont elle a été transformée. Les fruits, les légumes et la viande crue sont généralement confisqués. Vous pouvez faire des recherches avant de partir sur le site canibright.com qui est un site du gouvernement américain. Oui aux questions 11 (d) et/ou 12 : Un spécialiste agricole inspectera la terre ou les vêtements, les chaussures ou les bagages qui ont été en contact avec du bétail ou le sol d’une ferme pour déterminer la présence d’organismes dangereux. S’il trouve des substances potentiellement dangereuses, il désinfectera vos objets avant de vous laisser les garder. Pour importer de la terre aux États-Unis, il vous faut un permis. Oui aux questions 13 ou 14 : Si vous transportez des devises d’une valeur supérieure à 10 000 $, vous devrez simplement remplir un formulaire spécial pour le ministère des finances. Pour les objets destinés à être vendus, vous devriez déjà avoir rempli un « formulaire d’entrée officielle » avant de prendre votre vol. Vous pouvez faire cela sur place mais ce genre de chose est soumis à de nombreuses règles et règlementations et peut être compliqué.

WOW Power to the people

Ja zu 11 (a), (b) oder (c) Ihr Zollbeamter wird Sie an einen Spezialisten für landwirtschaftliche Produkte weiterverweisen, der Ihnen zusätzliche Fragen stellen wird und evtl. darum bittet, Ihre Lebensmittel inspizieren zu dürfen. In vielen Fällen wird man Ihnen erlauben, Ihr Essen mitzunehmen. Oft hängt es davon ab, wo Sie die Lebensmittel erworben haben und wie sie verarbeitet wurden. Obst, Gemüse und rohes Fleisch werden in der Regel beschlagnahmt. Sie können vor Abflug auf der Website der US-Regierung canibringit.com nachlesen, was erlaubt ist. Ja bei 11 (d) und/oder Nr. 12: Ein Spezialist für landwirtschaftliche Produkte wird Sie darum bitten, die Erde oder die Kleidung, Schuhe oder das Gepäck inspizieren zu dürfen, welche(s) in Kontakt mit Tieren oder landwirtschaftlichem Boden war, um zu bestimmen, ob diese gefährliche Organismen enthalten. Wenn er potenziell gefährliche Stoffe findet, werden Ihre Gegenstände desinfiziert, bevor Sie die Erlaubnis erhalten, diese einzuführen. Für das Einführen von Erde in die USA benötigen Sie eine Genehmigung. Ja bei Nr. 13 oder 14: Wenn Sie Bargeld im Wert von mehr als $10.000 mit sich führen, erhalten Sie einfach ein besonderes Formular, das Sie für das US Finanzministerium ausfüllen müssen. Für Gegenstände, die für den Verkauf vorgesehen sind, sollten Sie bereits vor Ihrer Abreise eine „formelle Einfuhrgenehmigung“ einholen. Sie tun könnten dies auch „vor Ort“ erledigen, aber diese Vorgänge unterliegen vielen Regeln und können sehr kompliziert sein. v

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Tank up at N1 on your way around Iceland

Complimentary

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at selected N1 service stations

COFFEE & DONUT

Meat soup Traditional Icelandic meal

Treat yourself!

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burger & fries Classic comfort food

With 95 locations around Iceland, N1 is always nearby. Find your nearest location and plan your trip at www.n1.is/en.

Icelandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s No. 1 Stop Issue four 87

Tel Aviv

The Holy Land’s best budget bites One of the best things about Tel Aviv is its gastronomy; it’s full of eclectic dishes from around the world, some found in tiny eateries hidden in the city’s markets. Text and photos by Cindy-Lou Dale

Tel Aviv can be a pricey city, but hidden in the cracks is a vibrant scene of budget eateries that reflect the diverse cultural and culinary landscape. Skip the tourist traps and explore Tel Aviv like a local—here are 13 tables where you’ll enjoy delicious meals, spending just a few shekels. PORT SAID, STREET FOOD Har Sinai 5 (next to the Great Synagogue) If you are looking for a restaurant that represents Tel Aviv, Port Said is it—a buzzing hipster atmosphere, a DJ tucked into a corner, and a delicious take on middle-eastern food. The menu changes daily and includes sharing portions of freshly-sourced local food, served with dollops of rich and creamy tahini sauce. VITRINA, BURGERS 54 Ibn Gabirol Topped with arugula, purple beet ketchup and creamy, garlic mayo, Vitrina has the best gourmet burger I’ve ever eaten. Their fries are a combination of regular and sweet potato fries topped with herbs, spices and lemon zest. If that doesn’t get your juices going, try one of their 14 varietal sausages. CAFE XOHO, INTERNATIONAL CAFÉ

Some of these are typical “hole-in-thewall” joints; others need finding. When you’re searching for that perfect bite, slow down and look around—you might miss out on something delicious.

restaurant itself makes you feel like you are on a remote Asian beach. The food perfectly satisfies any craving with its extensive menu and great exotic drinks. Best is to go with some friends and order everything to share. HAPIZZA, ITALIAN FOOD Bograshov 51 There is no way you can walk through HaPizza (which is always packed) without getting an instant craving for a cheesy slice. Their thin-crusted pizzas are delicious, perfectly seasoned and dressed in delicious, Italian sauce and contemporary toppings. No wonder they’re known as one of the best restaurants in Tel Aviv.

BENEDICT, ALL-DAY BREAKFAST Rothchild 29 This is a breakfast institution that serves breakfast 24/7. Remember to book in advance or be prepared to queue. Benedict’s is jam-packed with every single comfort food possible: whether it is towering pancakes, eggs Benedict, French toast or shakshuka, here breakfast knows no boundaries. MEZCAL, MEXICAN FOOD Chaim Vital 2 Mezcal is probably the most original Mexican food you’ll get in Tel Aviv (as explained by a fellow Mexican diner). Their food is delicious; their mojitos magical; salsas are just what you want; with fun vibes, set in a casual atmosphere. Try some of their exotic dishes!

Gordon 17 KITCHEN MARKET, FUSION FOOD This is a local gem tucked into a Tel Aviv side-street with laid back funky art, a sleepy house cat and an eclectic chalkboard menu with listing of comfort foods and a juice bar. Their vegan “mushroom bacon” has a bit of a cult following. Be sure to try their delicious all-day breakfast and of course their famous cookies! THAI HOUSE, THAI FOOD Bograshov 8 If you’re looking for an authentic Thai dining experience, this is it. The

WOW Power to the people

12 Hangar, Shuk HaNamal Kitchen Market is a contemporary fusion restaurant found above the farmers’ market in Port. This market-to-table restaurant serves up seasonal dishes bursting with creative gourmet cuisine. MOON SUSHI, SUSHI BAR Bograshov 50 and Pinsker 30 If you are looking for exotic sushi combinations, check out Moon. Their menu is extensive and portions are small so you’ll get to taste many new flavors. Sushi is delivered via a conveyor belt, which is a great solution if you’re not sure what to order, or you don’t want to wait too long. On Sunday’s every conveyor belt dish has a fixed price of 12 NIS.

Tel Aviv

ANASTASIA, VEGAN RESTAURANT Frishman 54 Voted “Best Vegan Restaurant in Tel Aviv,” Anastasia has a delicious and nutritious breakfast with loads of tasty dips, nutritious salads and incredible cakes. Everything is in super-abundance: from space to light, to the healthsavvy staff and the extensive vegan menu. DALLAL, MEDITERRANEAN, Shabazi 10 Dallal, a beautiful hideaway, is known for their special breakfasts. The atmosphere is relaxed and the décor, meticulous. The food choices are simple, but with a delicious gourmet twist that reflects its surroundings. For togo treats, stop at the Dallal Bakery. GOOCHA, SEAFOOD, Dizengoff 171 This is the place for lovers of seafood. The menu ranges from light and fresh to well-seasoned and decadent. It is one of the few places in Tel Aviv where you can get good seafood at a fair price. It’s popular among the locals, so you may need to indulge in some window shopping while you wait for a table. Do Belgium waffles with caramelized bananas for dessert!

THE HOME OF ICELANDIC SEAFOOD AND LAMB APOTEK Kitchen+Bar is a casual-smart restaurant located in one of Reykjavíks most historical buildings. We specialize in fresh seafood and local ingredients prepared with a modern twist.

VONG, VIETNAMESE FOOD Rothschild 15

APOTEK KITCHEN+BAR

Austurstræti 16

101 Reykjavík

apotek@apotekrestaurant.is

apotek.is

As the first Vietnamese kitchen in Tel Aviv, Vong is an authentic addition to the culinary scene. Always with a lively crowd, Vong is full of energy and great food from an extensive menu covering everything from wild and spicy to mild and delicious. Some of these are typical “hole-in-the-wall” joints; others need finding. When you’re searching for that perfect bite, slow down and look around—you might miss out on something delicious. v

Get tasty in Tel Aviv and get your Hebrew on. WOW air now offers cheap flights to Israel from the USA and Canada up to four times a week, all year round. Curious about our new service to Tel Aviv? Go to wowair.com and find out more about our flight schedule and available connections. Our inaugural flight to Tel Aviv is September 12.

Issue four 89

Going to Miami?

WOW Power to the people

Explore Florida by canoe Is there a more perfect way to see a shark than a swirl of fins and tail next to your canoe? Less than 1 meter long it small enough to look both beautiful and cute, instead of scary. Disturbed by our canoe, the shark disappeared across the meadow of sea grass that carpets Florida Bay. Text and photos: Susanne Masters

Paddling in the slightly deeper channel out of Flamingo Camp ground in the Everglades National Park we had seen dolphins leaping ahead of us. These glimpses of wildlife made taking a few hours paddling to reach our accommodation a pleasure. A CHICKEE NIGHT It wasn’t a tropical island luxury cabin over the sea on stilts, but for only $2 a night Shark Point Chickee was one of the most memorable places I have stayed. When the Seminole were pushed into the watery landscape of the Everglades by the United States Army in the 19th century they used chickees—roofed platforms on stilts—as places to cook, eat and sleep. In the wilderness of the Everglades National Park, the park service has a selection of chickees as a camping option that can be reached by canoe, kayak or boat. Located 300 m from Shark Point, the chickee has 360-degree views of the sea. Its only mod con is a Portaloo. We were prepared for bird poo since a platform at sea is an irresistible perch for pelicans, cormorants, gulls and terns. We brought hammocks to sleep in, a fly sheet tent in case of rain and a tarpaulin to tie onto the deck. As well as keeping us and our belongings off the bird poo, the tarpaulin stopped things we dropped from falling through the slats of the chickee deck into the sea below. EXPLORING THE EVERGLADES Beyond the Everglades, a host of rivers and bays across Florida are best explored by canoe. Self-propelled travel by canoe was the easiest way to travel around Florida before the land was drained and roads were built, but there are still many beautiful places that can only be reached by canoe. Navigable waterways are held in public trust. Even if surrounding land is privately owned, these waterways can be used so long as the entry and exit points are accessed via public land. When we paddled down the Blackwater River in northwest Florida signs were dangling from trees warning people to stay off private land, but from the canoe we could experience the river and its surrounding forest without trespassing.

Issue four 91

Going to Miami?

BLACK WATER AND SINGING SAND As the Blackwater River runs through a forest, clear water that feeds the river is tinted dark by tannin from the trees. Its eponymous name is not the only feature of interest on the river. When we hopped out of our canoe to picnic onto a sandbar we stumbled on one of the world’s mysteries—singing sands. There is no consensus on why sand sings. Singing sands are a rare and delicate phenomenon. It is thought that dust and pollution can stop them from singing. Some sand is made to sing by the wind; some sand sings when it is walked on. Humidity and shoe surface can influence their performance. Sand saturated with water does not sing, but small amounts of water raise the pitch of the sound singing sand makes.

Three Sisters Spring is certainly the most beautiful spring in Kings Bay, and during our visit, manatees were milling around at the entrance to the spring run.

Fortunately, we had not planned on camping. With about an hour of paddling left to reach Deaton Bridge, where Blackwater canoe would collect us and our canoe, a heavy Florida rainstorm started. Getting wet was not the concern; our problem was being on the water in a metal canoe and wondering how close the lightning needed to be for us to get electrocuted if it hit the river. We arrived soaking wet and thoroughly reminded that we should check the weather forecast before setting off for a paddle. MANATEE PARADISE

Within Kings Bay on Florida’s west coast, there are over 70 springs of which only one can be reached by land; the rest can only be reached by water. In winter these springs are a warm refuge for manatees, in fact, Kings Bay is one of the best places to see them. These large aquatic herbivores slowly graze their way around the bay. In the ‘Manatee Manners’ video that you must watch before being allowed to head out into the bay in canoes, the only warning for the safety of people around manatees is that during their mating season they can form frenzied groups. Injuries from boat propellers are one of the main threats to manatees, so visiting them by canoe is a gentle way to meet these gentle souls. Against the forest greens and dark rocks of the riverbed, Seven Sisters Spring stands out as a bright turquoise circle. Three Sisters Spring is certainly the most beautiful spring in Kings Bay, and during our visit, manatees were milling around at the entrance to the spring run. We tied up our canoe and got in the water wearing fins and snorkels for a closer look. Finning backward is one way to avoid curious manatees when they swim up to you. As they are not very wary of people, they came so close that we could see filaments of algae growing on their wrinkled skin and feel their gaze when they looked at us. DRIFTING ON

Stepping and scuffing our feet across the sand at the edges of the Blackwater River created sounds like instruments. And since the Blackwater is a pristine sand river (one of the few remaining ones), it is no wonder that the sand is clean enough to sing. Being untamed, the river’s flow fluctuates, which causes its sandbars to move. Some of its shifting sandbars are big enough to accommodate a tent for those who want to stay on the river for a night.

WOW Power to the people

In contrast to the urban surroundings of Kings Bay, paddling around nearby Chassahowitzka River is a journey through a wild forest, back in time. We came upon a man sifting debris from the riverbed. It looked like he was panning for gold but he was looking for old arrowheads and prehistoric sharks’ teeth. Arrowheads are artifacts spanning local culture from the Paleoindians to the Seminole tribe. The sharks’ teeth were shed when rocks were formed out of sediment in an ancient sea. While he looked for treasure, his

dog splashed through the shallow water around Seven Sisters Spring. We drifted downstream. Even knowing we were near the entrance to Baird Creek, we never would have found it without the help of a fisherman who asked us where we were going. He pointed out a gap in the reeds barely the width of a canoe. Only inches deep in places, it provided a path through the forest. Eventually, the canoe ground to a halt in the sandy creek bottom. We walked upstream between palms and fallen tree trunks until we reached a spring called “The Crack.” You had to look underwater with goggles to see that the pool was the lid on a fissure down into the ground. An otherworldly place you can only get to by canoe. v Canoe rental It is easiest to rent canoes at each location as this avoids having to take one in tow, it saves money on launch fees and it means that at each location a local person knows what time to expect you to return from your trip. Unusual accommodation Shark Point Chickee, 1 Flamingo Lodge Highway, Homestead, FL 33034 Camping Apply for backcountry camping permit ($15 in winter, free in summer), pay the camping fee of $2 per person per night at the Flamingo Visitor Center in Everglades National Park and hire a canoe from the boat rental for 24 hours for $46. Backcountry camping permits are contingent on weather conditions so they cannot be booked in advance and it is wise to have an alternative plan. Blackwater River Blackwater Canoe, 6974 Deaton Bridge Road, Milton, FL 32583 - $25 per person for a day trip Kings Bay Captain Mike’s Kayak Rentals, 1610 SE Paradise Circle, Crystal River, FL 34429 $55 for a two-person canoe for the day Chassahowitzka River Chassahoowitzka River Campground 8600 W Miss Maggie Drive, Homosassa, FL 34448 - $35 for a canoe for the day

WOW air now offers cheap flights to Miami, Florida, three times a week, all year round. Go to wowair. com for flight schedule and booking. The sizzling metropolitan of Miami might tempt you, but Florida has awesome nature to explore. Hop on a WOW flight to Miami and experience Florida to your heart’s desire.

“The Icelandic Museum of Rock 'n' Roll is as eccentric in its telling as the tale it celebrates.” David Fricke, Rolling Stone.

THE ICELANDIC MUSEUM OF ROCK 'N' ROLL

Visit Iceland's largest music museum and enjoy our history of Icelandic rock and pop music. Browse through the timeline of Icelandic pop and rock music with the Rock 'n' Roll app on Ipads, spend time in our soundlab, cinema, karaoke booth, gift store, exhibitions or simply grab a cup of coffee at our café (free wifi!).

The museum is located in Keflavík only 5 minutes away from Keflavík International Airport. Open daily from 11am - 6pm For more go to rokksafn.is

The Icelandic Museum of Rock 'n' Roll

Issue four 93

Flying to London Gatwick

Let Brighton lift your spirits Ten years in the planning, and Brighton now has a new icon; as distinctive and enticing as the city itself. by Maria Hart Photos: Courtesy of British Airways i360

The British Airways i360 Tower is a spectacular structure that looks a bit like a Fruit Loop threaded on a pencil, except its stem is metallic and the futuristic looking viewing pod is glass. Between two artfully restored tollbooths, the rounded pod smoothly glides 138 meters vertically into the sky above Brighton Beach, carrying up to 200 passengers to a breathtaking 360-degree pano rama on a clear day. RISING UP While eagerly awaiting their flight, youngsters watch the mechanical gears through the glass floor in the loading area as adults browse the beach building exhibition de picting the construction process through photographs and videos. As guests rise ever higher into the air, the photogenic, skeletal remains of the west pier can be pictured from overhead before gazing out over the endless ocean. Nyetimber Sky Bar, inside the pod, conveniently offers locally sourced alcoholic and non-alcoholic refreshments for purchase while toy seagulls perch on the bar, as high in the air as their real feathered counterparts. Regency Square looks even more impressive from the

WOW Power to the people

As guests rise ever higher into the air, the photogenic, skeletal remains of the west pier can be pictured from overhead before gazing out over the endless ocean.

air above, and on either side of it two buildings, including the Hilton Metropole Hotel, seem to wave to pod passengers with their brightly painted roof tops. LOOKING DOWN The younger set will be tempted by sky blue swimming pools, merry-go-rounds, beach volleyball and basketball stretched along the pebble beach below. Further away, past the kayaks and Stand Up Paddle boards laid out for hire, the famous Brighton Pier juts out into the sea. Further yet, The Lanes and North Laine can even be located from above. These narrow, winding mazes of independent shops exude the pride of Brighton with locally made handicrafts and funky cafes. Here you’ll find everything from chocolate decadence and children’s designer clothing to antiques and pre-loved jewelry. Perhaps it was King George IV who set the tone for Brighton’s distinctive charm with his Royal Pavilion whose onion shaped top can just be seen from the Tower. Like the i360, the extravagant Palace dripping in ornate Oriental design seems to shout “look at me” in daring individualism. TALL AND SLENDER The bold new venture has definitely paid off in boosting Brighton’s renown. The British Airways i360 now boasts the Guinness Record for the World’s Most Slender Tower, with a maximum diameter of just 3.9 meters. It is also the world’s tallest moving observation tower.

Brighton

AND OTHER SEA ADVENTURES FROM REYKJAVIK

“Trip of a lifetime” Reviewed June, 2016

Conceived and designed by Marks Barfield Architects, who also created the London Eye, it was officially opened October 2016 by Prince Phillip—one of his last official duties in the months leading up to his retirement. And just this May, the i360 Tower was honored with three prestigious titles at the South East RICS (Royal Institute of Chartered Surveyors) Awards including “Project of the Year,” “Tourism and Leisure” and ‘Design Through Innovation.’ These awards “showcase the most inspirational regional initiatives and developments in land, property, construction and the environment.”

SEA AN

GLING

EARTHBOUND AGAIN Back down to earth, the experience can be savored in either the 19th century Toll Booth Tea Room or by indulging in a delicious lunch or cocktail made with locally sourced ingredients at the Belle Vue Restaurant, a modern seaside eatery named with a nod to the history of the area. In the 18th century, Regency Square was called Belle Vue Field and even featured in Jane Austen’s Pride and Prejudice. Sitting at the foot of the Tower indoors or on the beachfront terrace, it’s a great spot to people watch or plan your next Brighton adventure. “This is an excellent tourist experience,” said an Australian visitor. “It’s all about experiences nowadays, and they’ve nailed it. The bar at the top, whether you have sparkling wine or sparkling water, makes it a memorable experience.” She left with a huge smile on her face and one of the souvenir toy seagulls poking out of her backpack. v Top Tips: Until December 20, 2017, The Hilton Metropole offers packages that include room, flight and lunch on selected dates. Flight time is 30 minutes including boarding. Arrive early to pass through security Costs are £16.00 per adult or buy advance tickets online for £14.40

WOW air offers cheap flights to London Gatwick from USA, Canada and Iceland. From Gatwick, you can catch a train directly to Brighton or London. Just pick a city! While you’re at it, add a little Reykjavik to your trip by making a WOW Stopover in Iceland.

PUFFIN EXP REYKJAVIK

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BY SEA

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Price: Adults: 10.990 ISK Children (7-15) 50% OFF Children (0-6) FREE

09:00 10:00 13:00 14:00 17:00

09:00 09:00 10:00 13:00 13:00 14:00 17:00* *From 15th May-15th September

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There are bright days ahead in Brighton. Check out www.visitbrighton.com for more information about this Great Britain gem.

Book online www.specialtours.is / info@specialtours.is Call us +354 560 8800, or visit our ticket sale at the old harbour

Issue four 95

Good ole’ England

On the Romney Marsh Artisan Food Trail Ninety minutes east of Gatwick Airport is the glorious countryside and stunning coastline of England’s Romney Marsh; and as one would expect from the Garden of England, it has an amazing array of fresh produce. Text and photos: Cincy-Lou Dale

The care and passion of its artisan food producers have preserved this landscape’s gastronomic heritage for generations. THE MEADOW LADY I was introduced to 230 Friesland dairy cows by third generation farmer Doug Furnival, and his wife Amber, at Honeychild Manor Farm Dairy—a 600-hectare organic working dairy and arable farm in Romney Marsh, England. The cows, milked twice a day, produce around 30-liters of milk each, which remain unpasteurized. Interestingly, I learned that pasteuriz ation not only kills “good bacteria” it does not remove the dead cells. Consequently, the processed milk quickly decomposes, while undesirable germs multiply. But pasteurization’s worst offense is that it makes calcium insoluble which leads to a host of issues related to calcium deficiency. It also destroys 20 percent of the iodine present in raw milk and generally takes from the milk its most vital qualities. All of which goes a long way in explaining the causes of lactose intolerance. Says Amber: “We’re very proud of our girls and we love people to see that they’re happy, loved and respected.” Full fat, raw milk (the real McCoy) is available from the farmyard’s vending machine, along with “honesty box” cream and eggs. Honeychild Manor Farm offers B&B accommodations in their elegant Georgian farmhouse with four comfortable guest bedrooms. Double en suite room rate starts at £75 and includes a farm breakfast. www.honeychilddairy.co.uk

WOW Power to the people

Award winning Romney Marsh Brewery ales are available at good local pubs, restaurants and shops. They’re also found on several pumps in Rye and as guest ales further afield in Canterbury and Hythe.

THE ALE MAN Matt Calais, a former television pro ducer, with strong connections to the Romney Marsh, realized his microbrewery dream in May 2015, when he launched the Romney Marsh Brewery. Following the sale of his London home, he moved to the Romney Marsh and commissioned a bespoke brewery installations firm to design the innards of the brewery. The equipment is smart and modern—a 12-barrel kit, with a mash tun, plus a copper, and a water tank in wood jackets. “I’ve always enjoyed ale,” says Matt, “and began home brewing four years ago, with a view to setting up my own brewery. Now I hand-rear around 1,500 liters—40 percent bottled and 60 percent cask—three times a week here, on the Kent frontier.” Once done with the wheat and barley used in the brewing process, it’s taken to feed the cattle at nearby Honeychild Manor Farm Dairy. “The biggest learning curve is ensuring our bottled beer replicates the taste of our casks. We have six distinctive ales, and the flavor needs to be a constant. Getting the taste just right is a challenge and has me adding more hops to the bottled brew.” Award winning Romney Marsh Brewery ales are available at good local pubs, restaurants and shops. They’re also found on several pumps in Rye and as guest ales further afield in Canterbury and Hythe. www.romneymarshbrewery.com

England THE SLOW SMOKE Joldine Moate, a qualified fashion designer and dressmaker, picked up where her now retired father—an artisan smoker— left off. From her home on the Romney Marsh, she continues the time-honored techniques handed down through generations of fishermen who preserve their catch through salt and wood smoke. “I grew up living right here on Dunge ness Beach,” says Joldine. “Every winter we would kipper and bloat herrings, stick-up spratts and smoke a Christmas ham. My father saw a niche market for smoked produce, which is how it all began.” Compelled to uphold the family name in traditional artisan smokery methods, Joldine explains the process. “The fish is steeped in a salt-water brine mixture; then we air dry them to form a ‘pelicle’ which helps the smoke penetrate and adhere. Once dried they’re placed on racks or hung to smoke above a smoldering cylindrical cone of wood chips in the Herring Hang. I use mostly oak chips, but sometimes it’s damson, blackthorn, maple or apple— the fruit woods give a little more sweetness to the final taste, whereas oak gives it depth and a fuller, stronger flavor. Different products are placed at different positions in the Hang, depending on the wind direction, humidity and temperature both inside and out. When the smoking is done, we quickly chill

the fish and pack them, ready for delivery.” Joldine smokes to order, so her locally-caught fish are always freshly prepared. Her footprint aware customers are a niche group of regulars who seek out her produce from good local pubs, farm shops, butchers and delicatessens. She’s also become a favorite for smoked cheeses like cheddar, Stilton, Parmesan, goats cheese, as well as garlic and gammon. www.facebook.com/thedungenesssmokery

THE EATERY The Dungeness Snack Shack is a modest seafood beach café/ food truck found in the desolate and crow-lonely backdrop of Dungeness Beach. It may be humble, but they serve the freshest ingredients, with outdoor seating in a bizarre,

sometimes surreal, but always beautiful landscape. Fishermen’s rolls or Mexican-style flatbreads are filled with whatever is the catch of the day landed on the beach by the day-boats (which are part of the UKs inshore fleet, commonly referred as ‘day boats’) owned by proprietor Kelly Smith’s family. The family has been in the fishing business for more than

300 years. Now, her brother and uncle each skipper a day boat, and her retired fisherman father, runs the wet fish hut next door. “We use a method called static net fishing,” says Kelly. “It’s a low-impact technique using different sized nets to target specific species of fish. So, who knows what the boys will bring in tomorrow? It could be sole, brill or huss, but it’s always fresh; and if you want to take some home, go see my dad in the fish hut next door.” The Snack Shack is a seasonal business, open from early March until the end of November. Check out their Facebook page for specific opening days/times. www.facebook.com/snackshack.dungenessfish

It’s all about artisan food and craft drink, farm shops and delis, cafes, pubs, roadside eateries and breweries. You can opt to collect the produce from a parked-up farm truck or have it delivered to your door.

WOW air offers cheap flights to England via London Gatwick and Bristol from the USA, Canada and Iceland. For an even greater trip make a WOW Stopover in Iceland on your way across “The Pond.” Britain sure is great. Get yourself over there on a purple plane and enjoy the bountiful offerings of the English countryside

@aurorareykjavik

AURORA REYKJAVÍK

@aurorareykjavik @aurorareykjavik

THE NORTHERN LIGHTS CENTER

EXPLORE

LEARN

DISCOVER

Can’t catch the Northern Lights? Don’t worry, we have already done it for you Visit us and enjoy our multimedia exhibition

OPEN EVERY DAY FROM 09:00 - 21:00

Grandagarður 2 - 101 Reykjavík. Near the old harbour. Tel: (+354) 780 4500 - www.aurorareykjavik.is

Issue four 97

Bringing home memories

We’ll always have Paris If you’re jet setting to the City of Lights, perhaps it’s prime time to re-think the word “souvenir.” In French, it means “memory,” but too often, sightseers associate the word solely with “trinket.” Not that there’s anything wrong with that, says this card -carrying shopping enthusiast. It’s Paris after all, where the wooing stops for no one. Text and photos: Theadora Brack

But why not consider crafting the kind of magic moment that will leave a lasting memory? A real souvenir. Like, for example, a fitness challenge? Something just like this: A new feat while kicking it along the cobblestoned rues? With planning, it is possible to have it all: That bauble you’ve eyeballed and a story to tell. So where to start? Here are few popular activités sportives, high and low key—nobody gets left behind. FLOAT LIKE A BUTTERFLY Maison Popincourt, 16 rue Verneuil Calling all Million Euro Bébés: Get thunderstruck with a session of synchronized aqua cycling on stationary bikes in the pool at Maison Popincourt. At the end of the class, you’ll feel like the world famous Lilly Yokoi (a.k.a. as the “Ballerina on the Golden Bicycle”). Recently the studio started offering aqua boxing. Flying high now, Rocky! WOW factor: Located on rue Verneuil in Saint-Germain-des-Prés, Popincourt is just a jump cut away from where Jean-Luc Godard shot his 1962 My Life to Live flick. Splash forward: While pedal pushing, gaze up at the skylight.

WOW Power to the people

Like the fast grooving class, the view will leave you breathless and yearning for more.

Dance and aerobics in the Opéra Salon and yoga up on the rooftop. Rubbing elbows with the Lycra-clad at the century-old department store is the perfect place to get to know the terrain and flavor of Paris.

Post-session: Keep your inner-boogie going with a purchase of a bougie at the nearby Trudon, the oldest candle shop in Paris. Here coveted showstoppers Marie Antoinette, Napoleon, and the Sun King all hold court in the vitrine. Take heed: It’s difficult to buy just one tapered handdipped candlestick. So keep your head.

WOW Factor: Your heart will swell at the sight of the Tour Eiffel, the Opéra, and Sacré Coeur—even while doing the Downward-Facing Dog. The architectural eye candy will sooth both soul and soles, spurring your spirits on to dizzying heights. Just don’t topple over the edge! Regarding rooftop selfies: #Holdontotheledge Tip: Schedules often change, so visit the website for the current timetable.

Tip: Maison Popincourt provides towels and shoes. However, if you’d prefer to paddle in a pair of your own, make a beeline to Decathlon at Place Madeleine. Besides underwater footwear, you’ll also find trail mix, tank tops, short-shorts, bathing suits, swim caps, and towels—all affordable, adorable, and souvenir-worthy. www.lamaisonpopincourt.com, Per session €31

LOVE ON TOP Galeries Lafayette, 40 Boulevard Haussmann Hold on to those compression capris! Fitting like a dream: Galeries Lafayette has added sports to its events calendar.

Post-Session: Zip on down to Galeries Lafayette’s café, and indulge in a sugar rush. Under the big dome, salute your revived bliss with a macaron in mellow yellow. Wine and Champagne are also available for the popping. Perfect for an encore or two. Because one is never enough, especially when you’re on top of the world. www.galerieslafayette.com, Per session €5+

SO YOU THINK YOU CAN DANCE? Marais Dance Centre, 41 Rue du Temple If so, get to stepping at the Marais Dance Centre. The studios in the 17th-century mansion are still adorned with exposed beams and floor-to-ceiling mirrors, giving a whiff of old-school Parisian glamor. Here, styles range from ballet and danse baroque with Édith Lalonger, to jazz, ballroom and even hip-hop—Beyoncé style. WOW factor: Spirits abound! This is where time travel flourishes, camera-ready for dusty Instagram close-ups. As you perfect a frenetic Bob Fosse-like sidestep or an airy Nijinsky-inspired leap, stop, look and listen. When sunlight beams through the windows, it’s impossible not to float in a most peculiar way.

Paris Tip: Reservations aren’t necessary. The schedule is on the website. Post-session: After working up an appetite levitating on the boards, hoof it over to the café at Bazar de l’Hôtel de Ville. Located just a few Jetés away from the studio, where you’ll find wine, bread and cheese platters. Dine in with the locals, or scoot over to the fountain at the nearby Hotel de Ville for an impromptu picnic. www.paris-marais-dance-school.org, Per session €20

RAISE THE BAR BarreShape, 10 Rue Volney Pirouetting straight to the point: If you’ve ever daydreamed of becoming a prima ballerina, get your fidgety feet to Géraldine Werner’s BarreShape studio, decked out in arched vitrines. You will find a bright nook of paradise as you rendezvous with your center in the center of Paris, smack dab in the ’hood of the Opéra. WOW Factor: This combo of ballet, Pilates and yoga are invigorating. It’s complicated, too. But that’s part of its charm. As you tackle the challenge,

keep in mind that it will take some time to slay the maneuvers while juggling the balls, bands, and weights. Soon enough, though, you’ll be busting the moves like Gene Kelly but with skidproof socks. Tip: Skid-proof socks are for sale at BarreShape. Post-Session: Embrace your feet and twinkle your toes at the Café de la Paix. Its terrace has catbird seats for people-watching, complimentary trail mix, and icy (even if a tad pricey) brews with a view of the Palaïs Opéra—where creative lightning strikes every time the gilded sculptures, Harmony and Poetry, move. Especially at sunset! Enjoy the splurge because life is here and WOW. www.barreshape.com, Per session €25. First class €20

Save on space and carry-on fees by bringing back great memories from Paris. WOW air flies to Paris twice a day, every day, all year round. Don’t just think about it, do it! Book that cheap flight to Paris with WOW air and start filling your mind with precious souvenirs. Go to wowair.com for flight information and booking.

Snæfellsjökull Art, science and history of an Icelandic volcano A unique book by Iceland’s most noted volcanologist.

Haraldur Sigurdsson vulkan@simnet.is Issue four 99

All of Montréal

Come to the party A cosmopolitan destination, a giant birthday celebration and the festive beat of summer. Are you thinking what we’re thinking? That’s right: this summer and autumn in Montréal are going to be hotter than ever! Photos: Maxime Juneau and Jimmy Hamelin, courtesy of Montreal 375 and iStockphoto.com / rmnunes

In addition to sharing its per ennial exuberant color, excite ment and energy, this year the city is cranking up the fun, 375 times over. That’s because, for 2017, Montré al is throwing an exceptional 375th “birthday” that spans the whole year, highlighting a rich history that stretches back thousands of years to Montréal’s origins as a First Nations settlement, French colony, then British stronghold. Fast forward to the present, and today Montréal shines big and bright as one of the most energetic, innovative, cultural and creative metropolises in the world. Here’s a peek at everything going on around town. EXPO 67 Fifty years ago, Montréal hosted Expo67, the “Universal and Interna tional World Exhibition” and solidly established a reputation as a city of the future. It was a blockbuster event for its time, and no one could have predicted the huge impact Expo67

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would have on Montréal or Québec. In celebration of the 50th anniversary of this truly historic extravaganza, the official Expo 67 programming welcomes visitors to relive the energy of the times through immersive exhibitions that shine the spotlight on music, film, fashion, art, photographs, architecture and more. Experience the buzz of excitement, learn how this colossal event came to life and discover the extraordinary impression it left on both residents and visitors; 14 dynamic exhibitions highlight specific aspects of Expo 67 in Montréal’s museums and streets for you to enjoy until October. LA GRANDE TOURNÉE Everyone knows Montréal is a fun and fast-paced urban center that offers oodles of thrills and excitement. But what visitors love most about this tight-knit island city is its warmth, openness and charm. And where does that come from?... Right from its welcoming and friendly

citizens throughout its vibrant and vivacious neighborhoods! Giving everyone an inside peek at the city’s deep sense of community and joie de vivre is La Grande Tournée, presented by the renowned Cirque Éloize. For 19 weeks from May to September, each of Montréal’s 19 boroughs will be celebrating its unique history, places, merchants and artists with a huge outdoor party. Every weekend, a neighborhood park will be host to an array of activities, from street festivals to film screenings, music performances to treasure hunts, art exhibitions to picnics and much more. It’s a superb opportunity to get an authentic taste and up-close look at city life through local and lively celebrations with real Montrealers. LA BALADE POUR LA PAIX From June to October, Montréal again pays homage to Expo67 with La Balade pour la Paix (The Stroll for Peace), an open-air museum at the heart of downtown. This major

Montréal art exhibition and walk for peace was created and organized by the Montreal Museum of Fine Arts, in collaboration with the McCord Museum, and with the support of Concordia University and McGill University. It showcases 67 works of art from world-class Canadian and international artists reflecting the universal values of humanism, tolerance and openness that inspired the world fair. Through artwork and words of peace, it reminds us of our need to live in harmony together— greatly desired in today’s times. In addition to commemorating the 50th anniversary of Expo67 and Montréal’s 375th, this open-air exhibition marks Canada’s 150th anniversary, and will run until October. MONTRÉAL SYMPHONIQUe Later in August, the hill—Mount Royal, that is—will be alive with the sound of music. Our iconic mountain will be setting the stage for Montréal Symphonique, a spectacular symphony concert featuring the city’s three major orchestras—the Orchestre Symphonique de Montréal, the Orchestre Métropolitain and the McGill Symphony Orchestra—in a two-hour, joyous celebration of our city and its seasons. This celebration of music, song and visuals will feature hundreds of musicians, our favorite pop artists and choir singers who promise to dazzle our eyes and ears, plus a unique ambiance created through beautiful tableaux and projections. Don’t miss this oncein-a-lifetime concert! NOMADFEST If country runs in your blood (yes, we’ve also got that too!), you’ll want to check out NomadFest in late August. An urban rodeo, featuring three distinct components of rodeo, food and music, this happening hoedown has plenty in store for cowboys and cowgirls. Some 150 professional riders from cities across North America will be thrilling spectators with dressage and skills competitions, saddle and bareback bronc riding, bull riding, barrel races, rescue racing and exchange rider events. Onstage, you can listen to an exciting line-up of country, new country, bluegrass and folk bands. Leading local chefs

have developed a mouth-watering southwestern culinary theme for the festival, and local food artisans and producers will also be sharing their specialties with the public. A highenergy, toe-tapping, tasty event that takes place in the Old Port!

Your Ticket to

Adventure

ÉLECTRO PARADE Did we mention that Montréal likes taking the party outside? In September, for the very first time in North America, Électro Parade will flood the city with a convoy of floats carrying a cutting-edge sounds system as local and international DJs lay awesome electronic beats and thousands of people dance in the streets to the good times. Inspired by a European craze, this kilometerslong street party turns the asphalt into a dance floor, as limbs loosen and people groove across the urban landscape. So, if you’ve got hip swayers and dance demons in your midst, bring them here for what promises to be an exuberant dance party of music-driven bliss. SUPER MÉGA CONTINENTAL Mid-September, another kind of dance will dominate the streets with the Super Méga Continental, a massive line dance with contemporary undercurrents, led by renowned choreographer Sylvain Émard in collaboration with Le Festival TransAmériques. The concept, which has already toured the world in previous versions, is back in town with a special creation for the city’s 375th, starring 375 amateur dancers of all ages and backgrounds, under the open sky at downtown’s Place des festivals. Watch in wonder as Montrealers celebrate their beloved city in dance. JOIN THE PARTY Innovative, creative, vibrant, daring, dynamic, fearless and fascinating: the list of qualities showcased by the line-up of events for Montréal’s 375th anniversary is long! But to really appreciate all of the fun going on, you have to experience it for yourself. A great way to learn all about everything that’s happening, and find the one’s you’ll enjoy most, head on over to 375mtl.com for all the activities and more, plus it’s where the 375MTL app. can be downloaded. Get on the go and enjoy all of Montréal! v

WOW air offers cheap flights to Montréal from Europe, up to seven times a week all year round. Join the WOW club and get all our deals directly to your inbox. Montréal is the place to be this summer and autumn. Hop on a purple plane to Canada soon and join the party. Tel. (+354) 580 9900 ice@mountaineers.is www.mountaineers.is

Issue four 101

The dish on Baltimore

Charm City’s culinary charms Visit Baltimore, Maryland’s largest city and be prepared for a lip-smacking, yummy-tummy time. Known for its sports, culture and history, Baltimore is increasingly gaining recognition for its incredibly delicious culinary scene. Photos: Judy Colbert and iStockPhoto.com / SeanPavonePhoto

Locals and visitors have long been enjoying its fresh seafood offer ings and what doesn’t come from the sea usually comes from the nearby farms and ranches that provide vegetables, proteins, and dairy (particularly locally produced ice cream). The past few years have brought a burgeoning of new culinary creations served in new restaurants, in addition to some natio nally recognized chefs who work kitchen magic every day. FIRST: SEAFOOD When it comes to food, Baltimore has something for everyone. The obvious first choice is the fresh seafood and shellfish from the Atlantic Ocean, Chesapeake Bay and its tributaries. That means there are crabs and crab cakes (Pappas Sports Bar has recently opened in the Holiday Inn Inner Harbor), oysters at The Thames Oyster House and mussels from Gertrude’s Mussels, both in Fells Point. All are on point in freshness and preparation. EXPERIMENTAL EXPERIENCES Sophisticated, yet friendly food halls have sprouted. R. House, located in the rehabbed old Anderson Body Shop, is home to ten experimental restaurants. The 350-seat food hall has roll-up garage doors, booth and beer hall tables and a great neighborhood bar. Stop by the Remington location where you can find the new home for Connie’s chicken and waffles, the Raw Oyster Bar, a kimchi class, a modern take on vegetarian street food at Stall 11 and arepas (a Venezuelan comfort food made of cornbread pockets stuffed with meats and veggies) at White Envelope. Artisanal food in the artsy Mount Vernon Marketplace is available from more than a dozen venues with gourmet cheeses, sandwiches, charcuterie and vegan options. The Whitehall Mill, an adaptive mixed use facility with a restaurant, market, offices and apartments, has been established in the Hampden area. BAKED GOODNESS Bakeries have a particularly warm and tasty spot in the city. Dangerously De licious Pies in Canton and Hampden, feature sweet and savory selections for carry-out or eat-in. SMOG (steak, mushrooms, onions and Gruyere) and Baltimore Bomb (featuring locally-made

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Wherever you go in Baltimore, you’re sure to find something tasty, and whether it’s traditional or experimental, it will have the Baltimore stamp to it.

Berger cookies) are among the favorite savory and sweet pies. Charm City Cakes gained an international reputation when Chef Duff Goldman and crew were featured on the “Ace of Cakes” TV series and other shows. They make specialty cakes and have cake decorating classes for adults and children. Charm City Cakes goodies are now available at a new retail shop in Harbor East. Historic in its longevity and deliciousness, Hoehn’s Bakery, in Highlandtown oper ated by the third generation of bakers, have been providing basic baked goods (no birthday, anniversary or specialty cakes) since 1927 and you have to arrive early or face empty display cases. BALTIMORE BREWS

downtown on Pratt Street and in Rowland Park (there’s a third store in nearby Annapolis). From mimosas to friend chicken ‘n waffles, you’ll note a southern touch to the menu. However, you also may be tempted by a lox and bagel or a variety of crab cake options.

ART AND EAT

Breweries are virtually (not literally) exploding. Located in the historic Gunt her Brewery complex in Baltimore’s Brewers Hill neighborhood, Gunther & Co provides food and frothy beverages. To get your raw bar fill, there’s the renovated boiler room where you can enjoy the view of the open kitchen and munch al fresco when the weather cooperates. The 16 ‘ living wall provides herbs and spices used to flavor your food.

Baltimore’s renowned art venues are also famous for their dining venues. A fairly new dining establishment on the art scene is Encantata at The American Visionary Art Museum (AVAM). The restaurant is as quirky as this museum that features art by artists with no formal training. What the restaurant does to chickpeas, cauliflower and Brussel sprouts will make your children beg for veggies. Pleasant weather brings al fresco dining and a spectacular view of the 55’ Whirligig by Vollis Simpson.

VARIETY IS KEY

MEALS ON WHEELS

Breakfast, brunch and lunch are owned by Miss Shirley’s Café, with locations

For food on the go, check Baltimore’s food truck locations. Wandering the city

Baltimore like wheeled nomads, here’s where you can try Greek specialties, cupcakes, chicken, cookies, salads, barbecue, pork, seafood, pizza, vegetarian, tacos, Halal kabobs, crabby fries and so much more. FINER THINGS For those who want to experience the fine dining treasures of Charm City, the best of the best includes Cindy Wolf’s Charleston in Harbor East. She mixes French and low-country cuisines that have fans all over the world. Tony Foreman, Wolf’s husband, is the master of the wine selection. Bryan Voltaggio (think season six of Top Chef), who started his culinary empire with Volt, in Frederick, Maryland, has Aggio in Baltimore. The menu features pasta highlighted by goodies from local farmers. Wherever you go in Baltimore, you’re sure to find something tasty, and whether it’s traditional or experimental, it will have the Baltimore stamp to it. v

When you fly to Washington, D.C., get more… Baltimore! WOW air offers flights to BWI airport so you can visit both Washington, D.C. and Baltimore from most of WOW air’s European destinations all year round. And why not try a WOW stopover in Iceland on your way? It’s like getting two vacations for the price of one! Find cheap flights to Baltimore from around Europe with WOW air at wowair.com. Join our club at wowair.com/wowairclub and get all the best deals directly to your inbox.

LET’S TACO ‘BOUT IT

HY HEALT LOCAL OOD FAST F CHAIN

Mexican food that is a true fiesta for your taste buds! We are at eight locations in the Reykjavik area and one in Akureyri: The N1 service stations at Hringbraut and Bíldshöfði. The shopping malls Kringlan and Smáralind and Akureyri center among other places.

Issue four 103

Hungry in Pittsburgh

Brunch is best in the Burgh Look at any list of first rate cities to visit in the United States in 2017, and you’ll find Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania ranked near the top. While it hasn’t quite reached the notoriety of New York, Chicago or Los Angeles, you’d never know it if you’re looking for the perfect spot to enjoy that time-honored tradition of weekend brunch. From the boozy to the vegan and beyond, Pittsburgh has a brunch option for everyone. By Joy Frank-Collins Photos: Joy Frank-Collins and courtesy of respective venues

Pittsburgh is made up of many neighborhoods, each with their distinctive persona lity. Locals flock to the Strip District on weekends to visit its eclectic shops and inventive restaurants and bars.

Pittsburgh is undergoing a trans formation. Once heralded as a hub of metals manufacturing, earning the nickname “The Steel City,” it experienced leaner years as that industry went into decline. AN EVOLVING FOOD CULTURE Like the city’s resilient residents, called Pittsburghers, Pittsburgh has reinvented itself as a center for research, technology and healthcare. One important benefit of that transition was an expansion of the food culture in the city. “For a long time it was hard to find a good lunch here, let alone a good brunch,” says Hal B. Klein, associate editor and food critic for Pittsburgh Magazine. “But now, you’re seeing so many great restaurants open for lunch and brunch, too. And those restaurants that had brunch are starting to hone in and care more about what they are doing.” And it shows. THE STRIP DISTRICT

“For a long time it was hard to find a good lunch here, let alone a good brunch,” says Hal B. Klein, associate editor and food critic for Pittsburgh Magazine. “But now, you’re seeing so many great restaurants open for lunch and brunch, too.”

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Pittsburgh is made up of many neighbor hoods, each with their distinctive persona lity. Locals flock to the Strip District on weekends to visit its eclectic shops and inventive restaurants and bars. For over five years, Bar Marco has been serving an Italian-inspired brunch on Saturdays and Sundays from a restored 1860 firehouse. “It’s a huge deal here in Pittsburgh,” Sommelier Dominic Fiore says. “Restaurants now are almost expected to have an awesome brunch. It keeps the bar high.” Bar Marco’s brunch menu is small by some standards, featuring no more than 15 dishes. “and that’s by design,” says Chef Justin Steel, “because there is so much attention paid to each dish. There really is no weak spot on the menu,” he adds. While the menu varies according to produce in season, they typically feature a Benedict dish, like prosciutto on a homemade biscuit with a baked egg and hollandaise sauce. In keeping with the Italian theme, they regularly feature a

Issue four 105

Pittsburgh and bread to complement creative main dishes like braised octopus mofongo and Puerto Rican girl ramen. ARTFUL PRESENTATION

pasta dish, like Gemelli with green beans and pesto and a sunny side-up egg. Their pastry chef, Dianne DeStefano is also heavily involved in their brunch service, creating zeppoles, pancakes, French toast and quiche. Of course, brunch isn’t brunch without standard brunch cocktails, which Bar Marco makes exceptionally well. But, like many other restaurants in the ‘Burgh, they also like to stretch their boozy wings. “We pay special attention to our drinks. We sell a lot of Bloody Mary’s and Mimosas, but because of our cocktail program being what it is, we feel the need to elevate what we offer.” Tequila drinks are quite popular. Additionally, Fiore always features a bubbly of the day for brunch that the restaurant doesn’t typically offer by the glass.

Getting around Pittsburgh Pittsburgh is a fairly drivable city (watch yourself on the bridges) although parking spaces are sometimes hard to find. It is also served by a metro bus line as well as a light rail system known as the “T.” Uber and Lyft and a variety of cab and car services are also available

Pittsburgh is home to several renowned museums and art galleries. There is no better way to explore them than on a leisurely post brunch walk. Fortunately, patrons don’t have to go far to realize that. Café Carnegie, located in the Carnegie Museum of Art and Natural History in Oakland, is anything but your typical museum snack bar. Directed by consulting chef Sonja Finn, who was twice named a semi-finalist for the James Beard Foundation’s “Rising Star Chef of the Year,” the restaurant features innovative and nutritious salads and beautifully composed plates along with freshly baked bread and excellent coffee drinks. “My favorite thing about Carnegie Café is that whatever you eat from the menu, you leave feeling better for it and it’s always delicious,” says Klein. Café at the Frick is nestled in the garden of the five-acre grounds of The Frick Pittsburgh, an art museum featuring European masterpieces housed in the Henry Clay Frick family mansion. Located in Pittsburgh’s East End neighborhood, the café features contemporary American cuisine at their Sunday brunch, with an emphasis on locally-sourced, seasonal fare. ROCK THE CASBAH Also located in the East End is Casbah. A stalwart from Pittsburgh’s “former life,” they have a Saturday and Sunday prix-fixe brunch menu that includes an appetizer, entrée and cocktail. Their brunch menu winks at their Mediterranean roots while still offering an assortment of sweet and savory items including ricotta pancakes

and Scottish salmon salad. “Casbah was one of the big shots in town 20 years ago, but unlike other restaurants that like to rest on their laurels, Casbah has this steady upward trajectory,” Klein explains. “It’s really impressive. It’s great for a family brunch.”

VARIETY IS THE SPICE OF BRUNCH As Pittsburgh’s food culture continues to evolve, brunch options will too. And they already are, with the trendy Lawrenceville neighborhood boasting an impressive number of hotspots including Coca Café, B52, Smoke, Round Corner Cantina and Spirit. “That’s the great thing about Pittsburgh right now,” Klein says. “There are really a lot of options. You can have everything from a vegan brunch at B52 to something whimsical at Spoon to cool and gritty at Spirit. I think that says a lot about the city. v

Also serving up top notch brunches in the Strip are: Smallman Galley, a 6,000-sq. ft. space that features a coffee bar, cocktail and wine bar and four unique restaurants (new American, Pizza, Vietnamese and Latin American). Eleven, a refurbished warehouse featuring an ever-changing seasonal menu and housecurated brunch cocktails. DiAnoia’s Eatery, an Italian deli and café known for its pastries and coffee drinks.

A SPOONFUL OF WHIMSY Modern American restaurant Spoon, in the East Liberty section of the city, takes great pleasure from their brunch service. “Spoon is a great example of a place that’s having a lot of fun doing brunch,” Klein says. Brunch is a time when pastry chefs have a chance to contribute “something more at the center of the table than at the end of the meal,” Klein says, and Spoon does it exceptionally well. Their brunch includes a variety of delicious house-baked pastries

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Eat your way through the evolving Steel City one restaurant at a time. WOW air now flies to Pittsburgh up to five times a week all year round. Find cheap flights to Pittsburgh from Europe at wowair.com. On your way, why not make a WOW Stopover in Iceland at no additional airfare?

RElax - enjoy - experience

- Welcome TO Mývatnssveit www.jardbodin.is · phone +354 464 4411 · info@jardbodin.is

Issue four 107

Bowie’s Berlin

Just for one day David Bowie’s Heroes one of pop’s greatest anthems, is 40 years old this August. We head for a birthday party in Bowie’s Berlin. Photos of David Bowie: Masayoshi Sukita Photos of Berlin: iStockphoto.com / TomasSereda and Eddygaleotti

Towards the close of 1976, David Bowie left Los Angeles where celebrity, overwork and an engulfing paranoia fueled by a dizzying appetite for cocaine, had driven his world into free fall. The singer and actor, then known for his public persona Ziggy Stardust and the film The Man Who Fell to Earth crossed the Atlantic and escaped into the seductive anonymity of Berlin. “There was light at the end of the tunnel,” Bowie said of his arrival in the then divided city. “And it wasn’t a train.” Bowie, who died in January 2016, regarded the time between 1976 to 1979 as the most creative period of his life. It was in Berlin that Bowie created three albums: Low, Heroes and Lodger with collaborators including Brian Eno and Tony Visconti. As Bowie embraced Berlin, the city returned the compliment; Berlin provided a creative haven for Bowie to reinvent himself. Ever the artistic chameleon, he would not have become the later Bowie without Berlin.

A NEW CAREER IN A NEW TOWN Like Isherwood, Bowie chose Schöneberg as his base—a then and still mainly Turkish working-class district of the city. Bowie’s long term

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IN BOWIE’S FOOTSTEPS Bowie’s favorite local cafe, Neues Ufer (www. neuesufer.de), on Hauptstrasse 157, where he celebrated his 30th birthday, is next door. Relaxed and cozy, Neues Ufer (“New Shore”) is one of the city’s oldest gay cafés and a good place to begin the day with strong coffee. Off Nollendorfplatz you can idle through the galleries and eccentric bookstores like Prinz Eisenherz (www.prinzeisenherz.com) on Motzstraße, and amble along the Landwehr Kanal. Bowie used to cycle here on an antiquated three-gear Raleigh bike. THE BOWIE NIGHT LIFE Heading east into Kreuzberg will bring you to Café Exil on Paul-Lincke-Ufer 44a, now the Horváth restaurant (www.restaurant-horvath.de), that was an early nocturnal haunt of Bowie’s. Today the restaurant serves gourmet Austrian cuisine, but the high ceilings and wood paneled walls give a tantalizing taste of what it was like back in Bowie’s day. Nearby around Oranienstrasse between Heinrichplatz and Mortizplatz, the clothes may have changed—ever style-conscious Bowie used to dress in baggy trousers and wide shirts—but the edgy atmosphere still prevails as does the refreshing local Schultheiss pilsener. On Oranienstrasse one of Bowie’s often-visited clubs SO36 (www.so36.de) is thankfully still thriving and was at the center of Berlin’s punk and new wave scene.

BERLIN IN THE 70S Separated from East Berlin by the Berlin Wall in the Cold War, the two Berlins, while within touching distance of each other, might as well have been different planets. In the 70s West Berlin was fertile ground for alternative subcultures and attracted creative folk from all across West Germany. In West Berlin you were exempt from compulsory military conscription: Rents were also cheap; communal squats had sprung up across the city and Krautrock, an impromptu disco culture uneasily counterbalanced with punk, was flourishing. Life for many Berliners took place almost exclusively after-hours. Berlin is a city where past and present lessons and contradictions of history remain writ large. As one of Bowie’s inspirations in Berlin, the English writer Christopher Isherwood described: “Here was the seething brew of history in the making.”

assistant Coco Schwab found him a simple firstfloor apartment in an Art Nouveau building above an auto-garage. Bowie’s sometime collaborator Iggy Pop, another victim of drugs and creative exhaustion, moved into the same building. The building on Hauptstrasse 155 still stands. There is a white plaque commemorating the singer on the wall outside and a growing local call to rename the street “David Bowie Strasse.”

Bowie, who died in January 2016, regarded the time between 1976 to 1979 as the most creative period of his life. It was in Berlin that Bowie created three albums: Low, Heroes and Lodger with collaborators including Brian Eno and Tony Visconti.

Heading east into Kreuzberg will bring you to Café Exil on PaulLincke-Ufer 44a, now the Horváth restauran (www.restauranthorvath.de), that was an early nocturnal haunt of Bowie’s.

“WE CAN BE HEROES, JUST FOR ONE DAY” Heroes together with the album Low were recorded at the famous Hansa Studios (www. hansatonstudio.de), not far from the Potsdamer Platz on Köthener Strasse. The song is about a young couple who are so determined to be together that they meet every day under the watch towers of the Berlin Wall. The story goes that during the recording of the song, Bowie wanted time alone with his thoughts to write lyrics. His producer Tony Visconti left the studio and walked towards Potsdamer Platz and met backing vocalist Antonia Maass by the Wall. At the time Visconti and Maas were lovers. As they kissed, unbeknownst to them, Bowie was watching from the studio window. Two hours later the song was finished. The Berlin Wall at Potsdamer Platz is long gone, but if you jump onto the S-Bahn and head east, alighting at Warschauer Strasse in Friedrichshain, you will find a remaining mile-long stretch of it at the East Side Gallery (www.eastsidegallery-berlin.de), a memorial with over 100 paintings by international artists. ART INFLUENCES MUSIC The dark, dense, ever-so eerie forest that is Grünewald stretches westwards like the palm of a hand reaching out of Berlin’s periphery. Just before the forest is the Brücke Museum (www. bruecke-museum.de), a frequent haunt of Bowie’s, who regularly visited accompanied by Coco Schwab. The museum has over 400 paintings and thousands of sculptures by members of the “Die Brücke” expressionist movement including Erich Heckel—the latter’s painting “Roquairol” inspired the cover artwork of Heroes.

Berlin Sometimes staying at Das Schlosshotel, an opulent mansion built in 1914 by an affluent confidante of Kaiser Wilhelm, Bowie and his friends would head to the fabled Forsthaus Paulsborn restaurant (www.paulsborn.de), an old game lodge next to Grünewaldsee Lake. After Berlin, Bowie crossed the Atlantic to New York City, which would be his base for the rest of his life. But Berlin was never far away. Of the “Berlin Years” and the albums he made here Bowie reflected: “Nothing else came close. My complete being is within those three. They are my DNA.” v

After Berlin, Bowie crossed the Atlantic to New York City, which would be his base for the rest of his life. But Berlin was never far away.

For more information, check the website www.visitberlin.de

Rock, pop and punk out in Berlin this fall and walk in Bowie’s footsteps. WOW air flies to Berlin up to two times daily, all year round. Find cheap flights to Berlin from USA and Canada with WOW air at wowair.com. Join our club at wowair. com/wowairclub and get all the best deals directly to your inbox.

THE ICELANDIC

PENIS MUSEUM We

Dicks!

The Icelandic Phallological Museum is one of the most informative, humorous, and unusual museums in the world. The world famous “Penis museum” in Reykjavik is the only museum in the world to contain a collection of phallic specimens belonging to all the various types of mammal found in a single country. The founder, Sigurður Hjartarson started the collection 40 years ago and made it first accessible to the public in 1997 with the opening of the museum. The Icelandic Phallological Museum contains a collection of more than 220 penises and penile parts belonging to all the land and sea mammals that can be found in Iceland. There is also a foreign section that holds more than forty examples and a folklore section that has some twenty pieces on display. All in all, more than 380 biological examples. In addition to the biological section of the museum, visitors can view a collection of about 350 artistic oddments and practical utensils related to the museum’s chosen theme. The museum is in a 250 square meter location on the upper part of Reykjavik’s main shopping street, Laugavegur, only a 10 minutes walk from the city’s centre. There is a souvenir corner with a small exclusive selection of things related to the museum’s theme.

Seeing is believing! No pornography or offensive material in the museum.

Laugavegur 116 • 105 Reykjavík • Tel.: (+354) 561-6663 (+354) 690 3774• phallus@phallus.is • www.phallus.is Opening hours: Summer: Daily from10 am - 6 pm • Winter: Daily from 11 am -6 pm • Next to Hlemmur bus station Issue four 109

Edinburgh

Festival fervor Celebrating it 70th birthday this August, the Edinburgh International Festival provides a great excuse to visit the charismatic Scottish city. by Christopher CanalPhotos: Courtesy of “© Edinburgh Festival Fringe Society”, The Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo, PJ HARVEY: © Maria Mochnacz, Nederlands Dans Theater: © Rahi Rezvani, Oresteia: This Restless House: © Tim Morozzo, Meow Meow’s Little Mermaid photo 1: © Pia Johnson, Meow Meow’s Little Mermaid photo 2: © Pia Johnson

For a long, long time Edinburgh has been a capital city of the arts. The temperamental heart of Edinburgh with its Georgian and neoclassical buildings, atmospheric pubs, dark courtyards and stairwells is all set in the shadow of Edinburgh Castle. Enhancing its mythical charm, Edinburgh is transfigured by a very particular kind of northern sunlight that glows in the summer months Edinburgh is a curiosity where con trasts coexist seamlessly. Unsur prisingly this contrast expresses itself most dramatically every August when the largest arts festival on the planet, the Edinburgh International Festival (www.eif.co.uk) and its wayward brother The Edinburgh Fringe (www.edfringe. com) take place. These events offer a great opportunity to savor the unique character of this ancient city.

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The “Edinburgh Festival Fringe’s” humble be ginnings go back 70 years when a fistful of uninvited artists turned up at the festival and performed impromptu

EDINBURGH INTERNATIONAL FESTIVAL

Zinnie Harris’ critically acclaimed take on Oresteia will be performed at the Lyceum Theatre. Photo: Tim Morozzo

Meow Meow’s retelling of The Little Mermaid promises to be a feast for eyes and ears. Photo: Pia Johnson

This year the festival runs from Friday 4 August until Monday 28 August. Over 2,000 artists from 40 countries are performing in what has been billed as the biggest in its history. The line-up includes opera, theater, dance and music from classical to contemporary. The festival will open with “Bloom” a colossal outdoor light and sound installation projected onto the city’s iconic buildings. Renowned Scottish playwright Zinnie Harris is presenting Oresteia: This Restless House, a critically acclaimed modern version of Aeschylus’ Greek family tragedy, and a new interpretation of Ionesco’s absurdist play Rhinoceros. Both plays are being performed at the Lyceum Theatre. The Edinburgh International Festival is renowned for its world premieres and 2017 is no exception. Alan Ayckbourn debuts his new play The Divide, a dystopian drama where a deadly plague has forced men and women to live apart. The eagerly anticipated production involves London’s acclaimed Old Vic theater.

Edinburgh Classical musical renditions come courtesy of the Budapest Festival Orchestra and the Scottish Chamber Orchestra. Contempor ary music is well represented this year. Highlights include renowned English musi cian and singer PJ Harvey who is performing tracks from her acclaimed album The Hope Six Demolition Project. Other musicians performing include Jarvis Cocker from Pulp, The Magnetic Fields, a celebration of the music of Edinburgh’s own The Incredible String Band and Indian sitar star Anoushka Shankar, the daughter of legendary musician Ravi Shankar. Australian chanteuse Meow Meow presents a subversive retelling of Hans Christian Anderson’s Little Mermaid performed as a shimmering underwater cabaret at the Hub throughout the whole of August. From the 4-26 August, over 200,000 people are expected to turn out for the spectacular “Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo” (www. edintattoo.co.uk) which runs concurrently with the festival. The “Tattoo”is a spectacular series of military parades performed with considerable pomp by the British Armed Forces in front of the grand architecture of the Edinburgh Castle. This year the parades will be led by the Massed Bands of the Royal Marines. EDINBURGH FRINGE The “Edinburgh Festival Fringe’s” humble beginnings go back 70 years when a fistful of uninvited artists turned up at the festival and performed impromptu. Since then the “Fringe” as it is affectionately known has

A LOCAL FAVOURITE FOR 17 YEARS

From the 4-26 August, over 200,000 people are expected to turn out for the spectacular “Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo” (www.edintattoo. co.uk) which runs concurrently with the festival.

For more information on things to do in Edinburgh go to www.edinburgh.org.

grown into the largest arts festival in the world with over 30,000 performances. Cities across the world have since shamelessly mimicked it but none of them come close for scale and variety. What makes the “Fringe” unique is that it is open to anyone from amateur theater companies to A-list celebrities who can afford the trip. As expected with such a liberal policy, shows are very much hit or miss. The dire rub shoulders with the brilliant but that is part of the “Fringe’s” enduring charm. The “Fringe” takes place all over Edinburgh. For the uninitiated, the center of the action revolves around the Traverse Theatre, Cabaret Voltaire, The Stand Comedy Club, Assembly Rooms, the Pleasance Theatre and Underbelly. Highlights this year include Gary McNair’s Letters to Morrissey at the Traverse and Sh!t Theatre’s eagerly anticipated Dolly Parton-inspired show DollyWould at Summerhall. v

The Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo parades are a sight to behold. Photo: “The Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo.”

WOW air offers cheap flights to Edinburgh, Scotland from the USA, Canada and Iceland. For an even greater trip make a WOW Stopover in Iceland on your way across “The Pond.” August will be awesome in Edinburgh. Book your flight on a purple plane and get ready to party.

Experience tapas the Icelandic way, made with the freshest local ingredients in an energetic and vibrant atmosphere. TAPASBARINN – A MUST TRY IN ICELAND

late night dining Our kitchen is open until 23:30 on weekdays and 01:00 on weekends

Tapasbarinn | Vesturgata 3B | 101 Reykjavík | Tel: 551 2344 | tapas.is

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WOW DESTINATIONS

You want more? WOW! We’ve got so many destinations we don’t have room for articles about all of them. WOW air now has over 30 destinations and will continue to add more as well as increase flight frequency to top destinations such as London, Paris and California. You can check out all our flight destinations and low fares at wowair.com.

ALICANTE

BRISTOL

COPENHAGEN

Warm up by the Mediterranean Sea and taste the best of Spain.

Mellow and less crowded than the big cities, Bristol is a more intimate affair. Get close and experience the atmosphere of this fun and vibrant city and visit the UNESCO World Heritage Site city of Bath on your way there.

The former capital of Iceland is still a favorite among Icelanders and now’s your chance to find out why.

WOW air now offers cheap flights* to Alicante from Iceland, with available connections from USA and Canada, up to four times a week until the end of October 2017.

WOW air offers cheap flights to Bristol and Bath three times a week until the end of October.

WOW air offers daily flights* to Copenhagen, Denmark from USA, Canada and Iceland all year round. Two flights a day on Mondays and Fridays from June 1st until end of October.

AMSTERDAM A city of art, architecture, cool people and canals, and don’t forget windmills, weird wooden shoes and tulips. Amsterdam is a fairytale and a great place to visit. WOW air offers cheap flights* to Amsterdam from USA, Canada and Iceland daily or two times a day, all year round. BARCELONA Barcelona truly is the perfect destination; tasty tapas, seaside promenades and mind-blowing architecture. Getting there is the easy part. WOW air offers 2-4 flights a week to Barcelona from Iceland, with available connections from USA and Canada, all year round, except in January and April.

BRUSSELS A trendy hot-spot with a wide range of tourist attractions, Brussels, Belgium is a perfect destination for a fun family vacation or a short city break. Known for fine chocolate, tasty waffles, premium beer and mussels this cool destination will surprise you. WOW air offers cheap flights to Brussels every day of the week this summer and four to five times a week come winter.

CORK Ireland’s southern “capital” may be a wee bit smaller than Dublin but it offers picturesque charm and wonderfully welcoming locals. Cork is easy to navigate on foot and just 8 km outside the city you’ll find Blarney Castle, home of the Blarney Stone. WOW air offers cheap flights* to Cork, Ireland from USA, Canada and Iceland, three to four times a week, until the end of October. DUBLIN Dublin has become a modern European city without losing the grip on its Irish roots and just a stone’s throw away is the spectacular Irish nature. WOW air flies to Dublin, Ireland from USA, Canada and Iceland every day of the week, all year round.

BOSTON The city that’s famous for Cheers and good shopping. WOW air offers cheap flights to Boston from Iceland all days of the week all year round. Connecting flights* to Boston are available from most WOW destinations in Europe.

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CHICAGO

DÜSSELDORF

The Windy City has it all; beaches, awe-inspiring architecture, great food, top rated museums, sports, comedy, diverse neighborhoods, a bustling nightlife and so much more.

This great city on the Rhine is famous for its art and culture, luxury fashion and lifestyle.

WOW air now flies to Chicago five to seven times a week, all year round.

WOW air flies to Düsseldorf, Germany from Iceland, with available connections from USA and Canada, three times a week until the end of September.

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MEMBER OF ICEWHALE – THE ICELANDIC WHALE WATCHING ASSOCIATION

FRANKFURT Frankfurt am Main, aka “Mainhattan” is Germany’s most cosmopolitan city but that doesn’t mean history isn’t appreciated there. When you visit Frankfurt don’t miss out on the Mosel Valley for a taste of Germany’s best wines. Prost! WOW air offers cheap flights* to Frankfurt am Main from USA, Canada and Iceland, every day of the week, all year round. GRAN CANARIA The city of Las Palmas in Gran Canaria is warm all year round so it’s a perfect destination for both the chilly and the chill. WOW air offers weekly flights to Gran Canaria from Iceland from the end of November to the first week of April.

WOW DESTINATIONS

MILAN Get ready for high fashion and high culture and don’t forget to feast your eyes on da Vinci’s Last Supper. WOW air flies to Milan, Italy from Iceland, with available connections from USA and Canada, 2-3 times a week from June to September. NEW YORK The most famous city in the world just got a little closer. The Big Apple is perfect for romantic getaways as well as family vacations filled with fun activities.

STOCKHOLM

Get into a New York State of mind. WOW air now offers cheap flights to New York, New York, every day of the week, all year round.

WOW air now flies to Stockholm Arlanda airport, from USA, Canada and Iceland, offering four flights* a week, all year round.

SALZBURG

TENERIFE

Looking for that perfect winter destination? European ski resorts are known for being budget friendly and the Austrian Alps’ best ski resorts are just a short drive from Salzburg Airport.

Relaxing on a tropical island sounds like a dream and Tenerife is a dream come true.

P ack your skis; WOW air flies to Salzburg from Iceland once a week from the end of December to the end of February 2018. SAN FRANCISCO LOS ANGELES The City of Angels, also known as L.A. is eclectic, progressive, trendy, laid-back and retro all at once. Great beaches, Rodeo Drive and famous people, need we say more? WOW air offers cheap flights to Los Angeles, California every day of the week all year round. LYON Experience the gastronomic capital of France with all its history and vibrant cultural scene.

San Francisco is the cultural, commercial and financial center of Northern California. Well known for its liberal attitude and as the birthplace of the “hippie” counterculture, the Sexual Revolution and the Peace Movement, San Francisco is also home to one of the largest and oldest pride parades and the festivities are truly something to witness and be a part of. Free your spirit! WOW air offers cheap flights to San Francisco every day of the week from April to the end of October and five times a week during the winter months.

WOW air flies to Lyon four times a week* during the summer, with available connections from USA and Canada.

The capital of Sweden is a city of contrasts, an urban paradise full of fun and history but with a relaxed and modern atmosphere.

WOW air offers two flights a week to Tenerife Sur from Iceland all year round. TORONTO This hip and happening city is a cultural melting pot where you’ll find world renowned restaurants, a vibrant nightlife and super friendly Canadians. Check out Canada! WOW air offers cheap flights* to Toronto from Europe, several times a week, all year round. WARSAW The capital of Poland has some historic charisma and is a great destination if you’re on a budget. WOW air offers flights to Warsaw from Iceland, with available connections from USA and Canada, two times a week all year round.

The WOW Stopover When flying between North America and Europe take advantage of our WOW Stopover option.

The WOW Stopover allows you to visit Iceland at no additional airfare. It’s kind of like getting two vacations for the price of one. Find out more at wowair.com

MIAMI This vibrant city is famous for its beaches and nightlife and this truly is the city where the heat is on. Miami’s laid back culture and great food blends beautifully with the city’s art and design. Enjoy! WOW air offers cheap flights to Miami, Florida from most WOW destinations in Europe, up to three times a week all year round.

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Go further with Kiwi.com

WOW air’s now offers additional travel options in collaboration with Kiwi.com. You can book connecting flights outside our network at the best possible price. Would you like to fly to South America, Asia or Africa? Our booking engine in collaboration with Kiwi.com will find you the easiest connection. * Note that the availability of connecting flights between USA and Europe/Asia may vary depending on the flight frequency to each city. WOW air connects London, Bristol, Edinburgh, Dublin, Cork, Berlin, Düsseldorf, Frankfurt, Copenhagen, Amsterdam, Brussels, Paris, Lyon, Stockholm, Alicante, Barcelona, Milan, Warsaw and Tel Aviv to New York, Boston, Chicago, Washington, D.C., Pittsburgh, Miami, Los Angeles and San Francisco in the US and Toronto and Montréal in Canada.

THIS AND THAT …

MOSTLY THIS

by Eygló Árnadóttir Photos: Various outlets

Photo: iStockphoto.com / alexeys

Photo: Kristinn Magnússon

Icelandic nature—respect it and fear it

Our delicate moss

When Mother Nature created Iceland, she was in a mood. Getting killed is an actual threat when traveling in the spectacular, yet brutal, Icelandic wilderness. Whether you are traveling on foot or in a vehicle, on your own or with an organized group— explore it safely. Educate yourself on how to stay safe, follow every safety warning and listen to your guide (Icelanders are a relatively laid back bunch, so when they shout danger they mean it).

Marking your stay is nothing new among travelers. Various spots around the world each hold their own tradition in what way guests leave their imprint. In Iceland, this mark has sadly often been in the form of moss “graffiti.” Large moss areas are rare in the world but in Iceland, many plains and lava slopes are covered in thick and luscious moss. These areas are particularly delicate as moss can easily be damaged. Moss takes a very long time to heal and damage can even be irreparable. Whether it’s your name, something sweet or something vulgar— “writing” in the moss ruins Iceland’s fragile nature and getting caught doing so will get you a fine. Tire marks in moss can take decades or even centuries to recover from, which is why off-road driving is illegal in Iceland. Even be respectful when just walking in the moss; follow trails where you can and if you must walk over it, be gentle. Be so kind as not to ruin the unspoiled nature you flew in to see.

Many natural sites in Iceland are more dangerous than they appear, and too often tourists

misjudge their safety. Those beautiful waterfalls are all ac companied by slippery ledges; add to that the crazy Icelandic wind to increase the risk of fall ing. If banging your head on the rocks on the way down won’t kill you, the heavy torrent just might. At the biggest and most popular waterfalls there are railings and warning signs, and yet, we’ve seen tourists climbing over the railings. Near popular attractions, there are safe marked trails anywhere where there is a danger of falling. Never go further than safety railings and never step out of the marked

trails. This warning also applies to geothermal areas, since they are very unstable and the grounds surrounding the hot springs can cause severe burns. In the past few weeks there have been fatal accidents involving hiking tourists, every incident, a different occasion. The natural forces should be respected and feared, Iceland is not the place to get reckless. Although your trip’s backdrop is fascinating, the perfect Instagram travel picture is not worth your life. www.safetravel.is

Make a pledge!

Photo: iStockphoto.com / alexeys

On the road The safety lecture continues. While driving through Iceland, it is inevitable to notice small and seriously cute horses grazing on pastures along the road. Your urge to hit the brakes (or plead with your bus driver to do so) and run out of the car to ooh and ah is totally understandable, yet a very bad idea. Icelandic roads are mostly narrow with little room to pass, and with risky surroundings on each side of the road. Pulling over onto the shoulder can be very dangerous and can interfere with other driver’s sight lines—

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especially in the winter darkness, or when rain or snow diminishes the view. Far too many foreign drivers underestimate the danger and simply pull over to the side whenever something photogenic catches their eye. Don’t do that as it is both dangerous and illegal. There are many side roads, farm entrances and lookout spots where you can pull off. Just wait a bit instead of taking the risk. There are plenty of horses and other breathtaking views ahead.

If you plan on following our WOW advice on how to stay safe in Iceland and how not to ruin the nature, you might as well make it official— and possibly win an all-inclusive trip to Iceland! Website “Inspired by Iceland” has great tips and info for travelers and now pleads with them to sign a pledge to be a responsible tourist. The pledge goes: “When I explore new places, I will leave them as I found them. I will take photos to die for, without dying for them. I will follow the road into the unknown, but never venture off the road. And I will only park where I am supposed to. When I sleep under the stars, I will stay at a campsite. And when nature calls, I won’t answer the call on nature. I will be prepared for all weather, all possibilities and all adventures.” Sign the pledge here: www.inspiredbyiceland.com/icelandicpledge/

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THIS AND THAT …

MOSTLY THIS

Photo: Guðrún Hildur Rosenkjær

A transgender lady of the mountain On Iceland’s Independence Day, June 17th, each commune presents their Fjall kona (Lady of the Mountain). Fjallkona is the female national personification of the country and symbolizes what Icelanders consider to be genuine and purely Icelandic. Ever since Iceland got its independence in 1944, the Ladies of the Mountain have dressed up in national costumes and recited poems

at their hometown’s Independence Day celebration. This year, for the first time in history, a transwoman donned the Lady of the Mountain at an official celebration. In the spirit of rapidly growing rights and recognition of transgender people in Iceland, the town of Hafnarfjörður specifically wanted a transgender Fjall kona this year. Eva Ágústa Aradóttir was the leading lady of the day and had a blast: “It was such an honor and a big step in the fight for equal rights. The Lady of the Mountain is the embodiment of the Icelandic woman and being acknowledged that way, no matter how I look or speak, is fantastic.”

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Photo: Sigurjón Ragnar

Women Just Have To take the bus Strolling through Reykjavík you might come across a white bus decorated with pink flowers and brightly-colored words, quite different than the city’s classic yellow buses. This decoration is the winner of Strætó’s design-a-bus competition: “Make Your Own Masterpiece.” The contest got over 1700 submissions where the bus designs varied from musical to political to comical. The competition ended with a fierce battle between the two top designs—a sarcastic feminist bus, designed by Lena Margrét Aradóttir, and a bus designed by the Icelandic Scout Association. The competition was extremely close for the last few days, as the two designs each got ahead every 10 minutes or so. With 50,000 votes in the whole, in the end, the feminist bus won by 177 votes. The winning bus has a big pink acronym KÞBAVD (translated as WJHT) and a bunch of following phrases. The acronym stands for Women Just Have To… (insert anything), as a response to those saying that gender equality has already been achieved in Iceland and any remaining struggles are simply due to women not trying hard enough. The salary gap, sexual violence, lack of women in media and so on could all be fixed with women just trying a little bit harder. WJHT… stop drinking and dressing sexy. WJHT... ask for a higher salary. WJHT… be more newsworthy. Since so many believe that the inequalities women face is by their own account and not by patriarchy, the bus is a necessary reminder to keep striving for gender equality.

THIS AND THAT …

MOSTLY THIS

Iceland’s first food hall! Thanks to a rapid boom in tourism and expanding dining scene in Iceland, Hlemmur, a former central bus station in the capital will soon be reborn as the nation’s first food hall, inspired by the long tradition of European food halls. The area around the old bus station has largely missed out on last year’s boost to Iceland’s restaurant culture, but with the redesign of this urban landmark, it is set to take on a new role. The food hall will feature, among others, a smørrebrød deli, the celebrated sourdough bakery of Brauð & Co, a New Nordic bar & bistro, a liquid nitrogen ice cream shop and a farm-to-table vegetable grocer. The aim of Hlemmur Mathöll (Food hall) is to help create a selfsustained ecosystem of independent

purveyors with a close collaboration between farmers, fishermen, bakers, and chefs. The hope is that a spirit of collaboration can advance new ways of eliminating food waste and delivering a lower carbon footprint. At Hlemmur, guests can grab seasonal and sustainable farm-to-table produce, sample all that Iceland has to offer and taste authentic international dishes.

ICELANDIC SEAFOOD makes world’s best sushi

Photo: Ómar Sverrisson

The best of Icelandic produce with a nod to Japan and South America. Modern Icelandic flavours, share plates and award winning cocktails.

SOCIALIZE WITH THE LOCALS

From left: Gaël Méheust president and CEO of CFM International, John Leahy COO Customers Airbus Commercial aircraft, Skúli Mogensen and Steven Udvar-Hazy at A321neo delivery ceremony at the 52nd Le Bourget Paris airshow. Photo: P. Masclet / master films © AIRBUS 2017

WOW air’s new baby WOW air recently became the first airline in Europe to operate Airbus’ new A321neo aircraft, when it joined WOW air’s current all-Airbus fleet of 17 aircraft. “We are most honored to be associated with the success and network expansion of this consumer friendly, cost efficient and environmentally conscious Airline. In a short period of time, it has become one of the most innovative air carriers serving Europe and North America,” says Executive Chairman of Air Lease Corporation, Steven F. Udvar-Hazy. The efficient, single-aisle jetliner

will have a configuration of 218 seats. Moving away from WOW air’s tradition to name its fleet after family members, the new aircraft got the name TF-SKY. “This is a significant addition to our fleet that will allow us to service routes of more than six thousand kilometers, a journey that the previous model of A321 could not do,” says Skúli Mogensen, WOW air’s Founder and CEO. “Our passengers will also benefit from the latest onboard technology that will make their journey as smooth and enjoyable as possible.”

Our kitchen is open 17.00–23.00 sun.–thu. 17.00–24.00 fri.–sat. Sushi Social Þingholtsstræti 5 • 101 Reykjavík Tel. 568 6600 • sushisocial.is

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THIS AND THAT …

MOSTLY THIS

by Eygló Árnadóttir

Photo: Still from The Sea Within

This summer, nine tourists were caught in the East Fjords having killed a lamb they stole from a field. Although they first denied it, they later confessed and agreed to pay the farmer for property damage and a fine.

The Sea Within on Netflix The Icelandic documentary The Sea Within (Innsæi) has been around the world since it premiered a year ago. The film had been available on Netflix in South and North America for a few months and is so popular that Netflix has now marketed it in all 190 countries that get the service. It is the first time Icelandic material goes global on Netflix. The documentary is also available on Vimeo on demand in all countries except USA and Canada, and on Amazon Video in the UK, Japan and Germany. The Sea Within offers radical insights on how to re-think the way we think and sense the world today. The world is changing faster than ever before, and new ways of thinking are required. Depression, distraction and violence have become an integral part of our culture, media and entertainment, and we are becoming seriously disconnected from the natural world. In the film, two cultural entrepreneurs go on a global journey searching for a new vision, feelings, empathy and imagination. Just because Icelandic lamb is the most delicious in the world does not mean you should go hunt for it in the wild while in Iceland. Try a restaurant! Photo: iStock / kavram

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In Iceland sheep roam free for the entire summer, eating wild herbs and grass, before being rounded up by farmers in the fall—which absolutely does not mean that lambs are up for grabs! Livestock is farmers’ property so taking an animal is always stealing, no matter where it is grazing. Plus, there are animal welfare laws regarding livestock slaughtering. This summer, nine tourists were caught in the East Fjords having killed a lamb they stole from a field. Although they first denied it, they later confessed and agreed to pay the farmer for property damage and a fine. They will now face charges from the Icelandic Food and Veterinary Authority for animal abuse. The police had never seen such a case before, and hopefully, this will never happen again. Please take note; if you’d like to taste the amazing Icelandic lamb there are easier ways than hunting live ones on foot. Go to any grocery store or restaurant and simply ask for it. Chances are you’ll get an amazing dish that will reevaluate your opinion of lamb meat forever.

Be a Dottir The Women’s European Football Championship took place in the Nethe rlands this July and August. Over the last decade or so the Icelandic national women’s team has fared better than the men’s and this was their third time competing at the European Championship having reached all the way to the quarter finals in 2013a. Unfortunately they didn’t fare as well this year, and lost every game in the group stage. The Icelandic supporters however, showed up for their team and dominated in the stands at every match. So you might just as well say that we won, right? Go DOTTIR!

“Nice experience with Salka whale watching”

Hey

look!

WHAT’S GOING ON OVER HERE? Quite a lot actually, and if you know where to go you can live each night in Iceland like there’s a full blown festival going on. By Eygló Árnadóttir Photos: From respective events or venues

A movie lover’s paradise Located in the heart of downtown Reykjavík, Bíó Paradís is a nonprofit organization run by Iceland’s professional filmmaking guilds. Screening the latest art house releases from all around the world as well as cult films and Icelandic films, it is Iceland’s first and only art house cinema. The theater provides a warm and cozy environment for film lovers of all kinds—both in its three-screen theater and its well-stocked bar. Located in Hverfisgata 54, 101 Reykjavik.

Events in August and September

Every other Thursday this summer, Bíó Paradís hosts free concerts with local bands.

WHAT: Summer concerts series WHEN: Every other Thursday at 22:00 Every other Thursday this summer, Bíó Paradís hosts free concerts with up and coming local bands. There are beer specials and a great summer live show experience! Check out the line-up at bioparadis.is.

Photographer: Ragnar Th. Sigurðsson, Visit Reykjavik

WHAT: Reykjavík Culture Night WHEN: August 19 WHERE: All over Reykjavík Reykjavík Culture Night has become one of the biggest events in Iceland. The festival spans a whole Saturday with hundreds of events going on, all of which are free of charge. Events take place all over the city; out on the streets or in shops, museums, cafés and galleries; even in people’s homes and backyards. The festival’s slogan is after all “Come on in!” referring to some good old-fashioned Icelandic hospitality. The main object of Reykjavík Culture Night is to encourage people to show their art, in whichever form it may be. Anyone can participate in the creation of the program, which results in a diverse and intriguing mix of events. The biggest concert of the day is in the evening, where some of the most popular Icelandic artists perform in open air; It’s a great way to catch a glimpse of the mainstream music in Iceland. The program ends at 11 pm with a spectacular display of fireworks by the harbor. www.culturenight.is

WHAT: Friday night party screenings WHEN: Every Friday night at 20:00 Friday means nostalgia at Bíó Paradís. In August you can catch Mean Girls, A Night at the Roxbury, Blade Runner and a Mamma Mia sing-along show.

WHAT: National Theatre live WHEN: Weekends at 20:00 in August Theaters don’t allow popcorn, so Bíó Paradís offers recorded performances at the National Theatre. Catch the classic Who’s Afraid of Virginia Wolf on August 5, 6, 12 or 13, or Angels in America on August 18, 19 (Part one), 25 or 26 (Part two). Photo: reykjavikpride.is

WHAT: The Nordic Council Film Prize WHEN: September 7-14 A whole week in September is dedicated to the annual Nordic Council Film Prize. Meet Nordic directors and see the five Nordic films nominated this year. All screenings have English subtitles.

WHAT: Russian Film Days WHEN: September 14-17 A carefully curated sample of current Russian cinema—haunting, dramatic and amazing films. All screenings have English subtitles.

WHAT: Reykjavík International Film Festival WHEN: September 28-October 8 Eleven days of current international films with an emphasis on young talent. The Golden Puffin is awarded to a new filmmaker every year. All screenings have English subtitles.

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WHAT: Reykjavík Pride WHEN: August 8-13 WHERE: Reykjavík The Reykjavik Gay Pride is colored by joy and triumph. The festival’s six-day program is very diverse with multiple events ranging from a queer cruise, gallery openings, lectures and a rainbow mass. The festival celebrates every success in the fight for LGBTQI rights and pays tribute to those who have fought for equality. It also reminds the whole nation, sexual orientation aside, to enjoy the freedom us Icelanders have to live peacefully as whoever we are. The Pride Parade (August 12th) is the highlight of the festival with music, dancing and floats that shine with pride and ambition. Each year one-third of the Icelandic population gathers downtown to participate in this colorful expression of love and solidarity. The parade is followed by an outdoor concert with well-known Icelandic performers, and later in the evening; an indoor dance with live music and DJ’s. www.reykjavikpride.is

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WHAT’S GOING ON OVER HERE?

WHAT: Icelandic Sagas: The Greatest Hits WHEN: Several shows a week in August and September WHERE: Harpa, Reykjavik Concert Hall Icelandic Sagas: The Greatest Hits is a fast-paced and hilarious 75-minute theatrical comedy in English that takes you on a journey through Iceland’s literary heritage. The Icelandic Sagas are narratives, mostly based on historical events that took place in Iceland in the 9th11th century. They tell of heroes and anti-heroes, villains, feisty females, betrayal, dispute, love, hate and last but not least, pillaging, plundering and murder. The Sagas are often hilariously grotesque, they hint at homosexuality, make light of gory murders and happen in a world where innocent things, like where to sit at a party, can turn into bloody family feuds and good poems can get you out of trouble with angry kings. This, of course, makes for great theater. Get your ticket to Icelandic Sagas: The Greatest Hits at www.icelandicsagas.com and www.harpa.is.

WHAT: The Night of Lights WHEN: August 30-September 3 WHERE: Reykjanes As the bright nights of summer give way to the shorter days of autumn, the first Saturday of September sees the staging of Reykjanes’ popular family and cultural festival, Night of Lights. Now a fixed event in Iceland’s cultural calendar, the four-day event offers guests a taste of the very best in local culture: art, theater and music. Get your ticket to Icelandic Sagas: The Greatest Hits at www.icelandicsagas.com and www.harpa.is.

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WHAT: Reykjavík Kabarett WHEN: August 10 / September 15 & 16 / November 9, 10 & 11 WHERE: Rosenberg Reykjavík & Þjóðleikhúskjallarinn Reykjavík Kabarett is a cabaret collective whose goal is to strengthen the variety scene in Reykjavík. The group focuses on a variety show with a mix of burlesque and vaudeville. A talented collective of burlesque performers, a clown, a circus performer, a musician, an artist, an actress and a magician form a great variety show where sexuality and humor play a big part. Each production is only shown three to four times. Check out www.reykjavikkabarett.com for information about their next gigs.

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Our Master Watchmaker never loses his concentration

With his legendary concentration and 45 years of experience our Master Watchmaker and renowned craftsman, Gilbert O. Gudjonsson, inspects every single timepiece before it leaves our workshop.

All the watches are designed and assembled by hand in Iceland. Only highest quality movements and materials are used to produce the watches and every single detail has been given the time needed for perfection.

www.jswatch.com

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17 July - August 20

ARIES

LIBRA

You are always a few steps ahead of everyone else. You might think it’s a great advantage and that people envy your energy... but honestly, most of your friends are weirded out by you already having plans for Christmas. But what do they know? Feliz Navidad!

You really should read those Harry Potter books. We know you always feel weird about not having read them like everyone else in the world, so do it already—it’s been 20 years!

21 MARCH - 19 APRIL

TAURUS

20 APRIL - 20 MAY The stars want you to enjoy life more, to seize every moment and kiss the person next to you. But not if you don’t know that person—then you won’t be allowed on this airline again.

GEMINI

21 MAY - 21 JUNE The coming weeks give an opportunity for some emotional housecleaning, especially if you need to deal with skeletons lurking in your closet. An actual housecleaning would also be a good idea, with you having crammed skeletons in your closet and all.

CANCER

22 JUNE - 22 JULY You keep running and running without ever getting ahead. Well, life can be like that. Plus you can only blame yourself—for insisting on spending your days on that huge hamster wheel.

LEO

23 JULY - 22 AUGUST When one door closes, the other doors often slam shut too, because of the draft But no one ever said those doors need to be locked, so just open them and do your thing.

VIRGO

23 AUGUST - 22 SEPTEMBER Your head is spinning and searching for answers... but if you listen carefully, you’ll be able to hear them. The answers to your questions are coming from your seatmate’s earplugs. He’s listening to a great self-help book, so eavesdropping could be bene ficial.

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23 SEPTEMBER - 23 OCTOBER

SCORPIO

24 OCTOBER - 21 NOVEMBER This month the stars urge you to embrace the past. You might enjoy browsing through secondhand shops and buying a vintage item. This does not apply to old boyfriends though.

SAGITTARIUS

22 NOVEMBER - 21 DECEMBER Your week will be full of family drama, with relatives disagreeing with your decisions. That’s always tough, but the stars urge you to be a little more understanding towards your parents needing time to process your plan to travel the Arctic in a hot air balloon.

CAPRICORN

22 DECEMBER - 19 JANUARY Tough choices need to be made this week and a whole lot of soul searching. If you have any chance, try to consult a zebra. They have a knack for seeing both sides.

AQUARIUS

20 JANUARY - 18 FEBRUARY Mixed messages could lead to misunder standings this week unless you make yourself very clear. So stop communic ating in Morse code. It’s cute and quirky but gets you nowhere.

PISCES

19 FEBRUARY - 20 MARCH You’re a big fish in a small pond and your ex couldn’t deal with it. Stop pining. There are plenty more fish in the sea, and you have bigger fish to fry, so stop with the desperate text messages. You’re just fishing for trouble. Disclaimer: This horoscope is total and utter nonsence. Any accuracies, real or imagined by readers, are purely incidental.

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WOW SUDOKU BUT HOW DO I DO IT?

REALLY, REALLY BORED? HERE ARE A FEW SUDOKUS TO MAKE TIME FLY.

The object is to insert the numbers in the boxes to satisfy only one condition: Each row, column and 3x3 box must contain the digits 1 through 9 exactly once. What could be simpler?

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WOW AIR PROMO CODE

WOWHORSES Laxnes Horse Farm is a family owned and operated horse farm offering daily tours since 1968. With a wide range of horses we specialize in short and long tours designed to introduce our customers to the amazing, gentle and one of a kind Icelandic horse. Additionally we offer a variety of combination tours letting you get the most out of your day in Iceland. We offer pickup service in Reykjavik and the farm’s easy to find location just outside Reykjavik makes joining our tours easy if you have a car. “The best way to see Icelandic nature is from the back of a horse. Laxnes is our home and with our horses being part of the family our main goal has always been to combine well organized professionalism with a warm and friendly family atmosphere.” Haukur Thorarinsson Manager

MUST SEE IN ICELAND

VOTED MUST SEE IN ICELAND 2017 ON MUSTSEE.IS

Book your tours in iceland with special promo code LAXNES on mustsee.is

Laxnes Horse Farm 271 Mosfellsbær Iceland Tel: +354 566 6179 info@laxnes.is

Visit us on www.laxnes.is. Connect with us. Follow, like and subcribe to #laxneshorsefarm on social media.

  

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THE TRAVELING INQUISITION

THE ICELANDIC QUEEN OF BURLESQUE Comedy, talents, crazy acts, elaborate costumes, crude humor, magic and a whole lot of wonderful nonsense; that is Reykjavík Kabarett for you—a talented group of performers, led by “Mom” Margrét Erla Maack. by Eygló Árnadóttir Photos: Leifur Wilberg Orrason and Gunnlöð Jóna Rúnarsdóttir

Obviously determined in not having a boring job, Margrét is a dance instructor, a burlesque performer, a DJ, a belly dancer, a columnist and a circus per former… to name a few. She is also one of the founders of Reykjavík Kabarett, a variety talent show which emphas izes on burlesque and takes up most of her working hours these days. Her dive into that scene was funny and coincidental, like so many things in her life seem to be; “In the summer of 2007, I was dumped by a boyfriend and won the lottery in the same week, so I went to New York for three months. Through friends in comedy and drag, I accidentally fell into the burlesque scene. That whole trip was an adventure that shaped me as a person,” Margrét says. Margrét Erla is one of those amazing thirtysomethings that hasn’t quite figured out what she wants to be when she grows up, but still manages to do countless awesome things in the meantime.

CITY GIRL Being a burlesque performer, Margrét Erla travels a lot. Outside of her hometown Reykjavík she mostly performs in New York, regul arly at Slipper Room and a few times at House of Yes. The Lower East Side is now her favorite place abroad, but she also loves Seattle, which she thinks is a lot like Reykjavík—except Seattle has much more variety shows, while that scene is very new in Iceland. Although performing overseas, meeting new people and learning from others is great, the Icelandic queen of burlesque puts her main emphasis on nurturing and representing this new Icelandic burlesque scene. Asked about her favorite spot in Iceland, she does not bring up a natural wonder but downtown Reykjavík; “I live there, all of my jobs are there, and my family is there… I wouldn’t want to live anywhere else.”

THE SEXY, WEIRD AND FUNNY FEMALE BODY Margrét finds it different to perform for Icelanders than Ameri cans; “the Icelandic crowd is not as loud—even when people rave about the show afterward. In American cities, where burlesque is much more established, the audience demands more. They expect the show to be polished, while the Icelandic audience simply wants to see something funny and weird.” In both countries, wo men are a majority of the audience, and they seem to love to see the female body in a funny scenario. “Burlesque isn’t simply about stripping, and it’s never dirty or degrading. We are so used to see ing the female body as sexy and vulnerable. It’s very refreshing to see women not giving a damn about their cellulite or misshaped breasts, and really showing off that all bodies are beautiful and that we can be sexy on our own terms.” Follow Margrét Erla and her Reykjavik Kabarett friends at their website www.reykjavikkabarett.com

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dress code iceland

s n a p c h a t /c i n t a m a n i . i s

f a c e b o o k /c i n t a m a n i _ i c e l a n d

i n s t a g r a m /c i n t a m a n i . i c e l a n d

b a n ka s t rĂŚt i + k r i n g l a n + s m ĂĄ ra l i n d + a u s t u r h ra u n + a k u rey r i + w w w.c i nt a m a n i . i s

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WOW Power to the people– Visit our stores: Skólavörðustígur & Kringlan, Reykjavík. Hafnarstræti, Akureyri. Geysir, Haukadalur. geysir.com –