Follow in the most famous frogman’s wake

antigua

As the ‘sailing capital of the Caribbean’, Antigua is no stranger to most yachting folk. At Estela Yachting, we are there each winter for the

Antigua Charter Yacht

Show, which is getting bigger and better with each passing year. The six-day event —next held December 4th-9th in 2019— has no exhibition stands, with the focus entirely on chartering for the duration of the event, including a final ‘Sail Day’, enabling brokers to experience a ‘microcharter’ around the Caribbean.

Other staples in Antigua’s events calendar are

Antigua Classic Yacht

Regatta in April, followed directly by Antigua Sailing Week, rounding off the Caribbean season before the Mediterranean season kicks off again. A newer fixture, earlier in the calendar, is the RORC Caribbean 600 Race in February. In 2019, the 11th edition of this nonstop 600-mile race around eleven Caribbean islands attracted 76 teams from 21 countries.

As testament to the islands’ seafaring heritage, in January of 2019 a team of four Antiguan women successfully completed the 3,000-mile crossing from the Canary Islands to Nelson’s Dockyard in the Talisker Whiskey Atlantic Challenge. Elvira Bell, Christal Clashing, Samara Emanuel and Captain Kevinia Francis —‘Team Antigua Island Girls’— were the first black women to row across the Atlantic, completing the journey in 50 days.

Facilities

In case you haven’t visited for a while, here is a reminder of what Antigua has to offer. Well-equipped marine facilities make the island a terrific base from which to explore the wider Caribbean region. As the region’s main port of call when coming into or departing these waters, Antigua’s English-speaking population means easy communication around service and repairs. There are resident engineers, sailmakers and other service providers here, that all work to the highest standard. Another benefit of Antigua over many of its neighbours is the absence of a lagoon, with Falmouth Harbour Marina and Antigua Yacht Club Marina, both in Falmouth Harbour, accessible at all times to the largest of both sailing and motor yachts. Meanwhile, the island’s VC Bird Airport is wellconnected to both Europe and North America.

Less easy for captains and yacht managers to navigate in Antigua are its Customs and Immigration procedures, as the country is not part of any customs union or FTZ. Estela’s partner for all agency services, including bunkering, clearing, crewing, berthing or on-shore services are

Anchor Concierge and Super Yacht Services

on +1 268 734 1865, www.anchorcsys.com

Antigua as a destination

While for many owners Antigua is a point of transit, the island itself is an inviting destination. ‘Waladli’ or ‘Wadadli’ (sic), as the local population sometimes refer to the island, not only has its famous 365 beaches, but retains historical monuments and buildings that attest to its naval and colonial past.

Things to do

Nelson’s Dockyard

National Park has been in continuous operation since 1745. Declared a Unesco World Heritage site in 2016, the Georgian marina now houses restaurants, hotels and businesses. From 1784 for three years it was home to (then) Captain Horatio Nelson, who was reluctantly stationed here, referring to it as “an infernal hole” and a “vile spot” where he was besieged by mosquitos.

Another historical naval military point of interest is Shirley Heights, a restored lookout and gun battery, names after St Thomas Shirley, the first Governor of the Leeward Islands. The Blockhouse retains vestiges of officers’ quarters and a powder magazine, while on a clear day Montserrat and Guadalupe are visible from here.

The Victorian Wallings Dam & Reservoir was built around 1900, though the reservoir ran dry during a drought shortly afterwards and was reforested. Now dense with a large number of tree varieties, the area is fertile ground for birdwatchers, with broad-winged hawks, hen harriers, bananaquits and redstarts often seen here.

Another attraction, particularly during the mating season in Spring, is the Barbuda Bird Sanctuary, with thousands of frigate birds congregating here in the lagoon when they aren’t in the Galapagos.

Beaches

With 365 beaches to choose from, you won’t have to cruise far to find one to your liking, but here are some of our favourites. Rendezvous Bay, on the south coast west of Falmouth and a 30-minute walk away from the nearest car parking.

Half Moon Bay, on the eastern tip of the island, is protected from open sea by a crested reef and from winds by surrounding woodland. Beyond the reef water can be choppy and is therefore popular with (wind)surfers. It gets busy at weekends, but is worth a visit during quieter times.

Green Island, as the name would suggest, is a small private island off Antigua’s eastern coast and is only accessible by boat, making it one of the quieter spots. There are a number of sandy beaches to choose from, all offering great snorkelling, soft sand and little else.

Less secluded is Carlisle Bay, with the upscale Carlisle Bay Hotel nearby. As it offers the best snorkelling for tropical fish lovers without taking to a boat, it can get busier than others.

Hawksbill Bay, to the west, near the island’s capital, St John, has four beaches to choose from, one of which is the only nudist beach on the island.

Deep Bay boasts a wreck as a point of interest for snorkelers and divers, while turtles are often spotted around here.

guadeloupe

If you are spending time around Antigua, consider dropping 50 nautical miles south to Guadeloupe, for a taste of Les Antilles Françaises.

Guadeloupe’s archipelago contains a dozen islands with a familiar Caribbean topography of white beaches and soaring mountains, though the cultural flavour here is truly French. ‘Gwada’ as the locals know it, combines rich Créole culture with a ‘joie de vivre’ that is distinct from other parts of the region.

Geographically, Gwada’s mainland resembles a butterfly, with emerald wings that are conjoined by swampland. Located between Montserrat and Dominica, these large wings and a southern cluster of islets of course have stunning beaches, but also waterfalls and rainforests that are worth exploring. Guadeloupe is particularly well geared up for climbing, hiking, paragliding and all manner of watersports.

To the west, Basse-Terre is mountainous and covered with dense tropical vegetation, home to the Guadeloupe National Park, topping out at La Soufrière volcano. To the east lies Grande-Terre, a vast limestone plateau, which draws most of the islands’ tourism, crested with white sandy beaches and hotel resorts. While tourism has increased in recent years, with more direct flights from the US and UK traffic also up —thanks in part to Gwada being the setting for UK hit television series, ‘Death in Paradise’— there remains plenty of room to keep away from crowds and enjoy some unspoilt nature. With 70% of its territories classified as a Natural Reserve and listed since 1993 as a UNESCO World Biosphere Reserve, the Guadeloupe Islands are well protected from over-development. South of the mainland lie three smaller islands, La Désirade, Les Saintes and Marie-Galante.

Tip: The west coast has almost no land-based tourism and yacht-based visitors generally have the islands’ best beaches to themselves

La Désirade

Of Guadeloupe’s 380,000 population, only 1,700 people live on La Désirade, sharing its 22 km square with thousands of iguanas, including endangered varieties. It is a short hop east from the mainland, has just one road and glorious beaches on the south coast of the island, which are shady and protected by coral reefs.

Les Saintes

Les Saintes comprises nine unspoiled tiny islands, only two of which are inhabited. Listed by UNESCO as one of the world’s most beautiful bays, Les Saintes Bay is located on the northwest coast of the easterly island of Terre-de-Haut. Three forts were built overlooking the bay and the French and English enjoyed many battles here during the 17th and 18th centuries. It was also a spot favoured by pirates. Our local friends in the know prefer the beach at Le Pain-de-Sucre.

Marie-Galante

Of the islands on the Guadeloupe archipelago, Marie Galante was the first one reached by Christopher Columbus during his second voyage, in 1493. He named the island after his flagship, Maria Galanda, having been formerly known by Carib Indians as ‘Aichi’ and before that by the Arawaks as ‘Touloukaera’.

The third largest island in Guadeloupe is mostly flat and offers more glorious beaches on its west and south coast, making it easy to find a quiet spot to your liking. Our local partner’s favourite is Plage de la Feuillèr. The island has a small town, Grand-Bourg, and two fishing villages, making it feel almost deserted in places.

Introduced to Guadeloupe by Columbus and cultivated here by Brazilian colonists, sugar cane plantations sprung up across the island, followed by the commensurate rhum distilleries. Of five original

Tip(ple): Blend in with the locals and try Gwada’s answer to the American Old-Fashioned cocktail, the Ti’ Punch. Pronounced ‘tee~paunch’ it is a generous dose of Guadeloupe rhum agricole, rounded out with touch of lime juice and a splash of cane syrup. Salut! plants on Marie-Galante, three remain, producing a legendary 59% proof tipple. There are five further distilleries to be found on the other islands.

What’s more, is that without ‘Appellation’ certification, Gwada’s distilleries are able to mix things up a little. They produce, among others, molasses-based varieties and blends made from black cane, aged in armagnac barrels, concocting a rhum with a sweet, grassy flavour that is quite unique.

Cane harvesting is still done in places with oxen, crushed in windmills, which makes rhum from Guadeloupe, and MarieGalante particularly, something quite special.

The shell of a colonial villa, Habitation Murat, remains standing, hinting at Marie-Galante’s rhuminfused glory days.

Image credit: Yvan Zedda

Route du Rhum

Organised by OC Sport, the ‘Route du RhumDestination Guadeloupe’ is a 3,542-nautical mile solo transatlantic yacht race which takes place every four years, starting from Saint-Malo in Brittany and finishing in Pointe-à-Pitre in Guadeloupe.

The race was first held in 1978 and in its 40th anniversary year in 2018, the race celebrated a record number of entries, with 123 male and female skippers, in six classes, taking to the start line.

Image credit: Alexis Courcoux

Scuba diving

The islands are surrounded by a network of coral reefs and volcanic substrate. The most popular area for diving is the western coast of BassTerre, which is the site of the Cousteau Marine Park. Most diving is at depths of 10 to 20 metres on reefs with sponges and coral growths, though deeper and more challenging dives are also available.

Jacques Cousteau claimed that Pigeon Island was one of the best diving spots in the world and the Cousteau Underwater Reserve is not to be missed, just off the centre of Basse-Terre’s western coastline.

Though there are plenty of sites for all experience levels, a couple of sites are reserved for Advanced Open Water Divers only. A particular favourite is La Grotte aux Baracudas, a gorgeous blue cave with plenty of huge barracudas, described locally as “XXL”.

As you would expect, waters here are regular stomping ground for dolphins and whales, while turtles, small sharks, eels, coral and all manner of tropical fish are common. Not so common is a large bronze bust of Jacques Cousteau himself down in the ‘Coral Garden’, donning his trademark red woolly hat. (Now there’s a selfie to collect!)

Other spots known for turtles are near Bouillante, a little down the coast, while the protected reserve around Petite- Terre, on the eastern side of the archipelago are musts, described as an open-air aquarium, including rays, lemon sharks and more fish than you can shake a stick at.

Guadeloupe is a French overseas region and is in the EU (and Schengen), with the same visa rules applicable. Its currency is the euro and its hypermarkets’ shelves resemble those in Europe.

antigua·dining·out

Antigua’s diverse population is reflected in its cuisine, with ubiquitous staples including roti, curries, conch fritters, shawarma, and the national dish, Fungee and Pepperpot. This hearty meat stew served with a cornmeal and okra side is probably something you may prefer to leave to the locals, so here are some dining suggestions that may be more appealing.

SHEER ROCKS AT COCOBAY RESORT

(+1 268-562-4510, Ffryes Beach, Valley Road, St. Mary’s). The cliff-edge restaurant here is generally regarded one of the best in the Caribbean. While it won’t guarantee one of its six tables with uninterrupted views, these are the ones to secure. JACQUI O’S BEACHHOUSE (+1 268-5622218, Sir Andy Roberts Drive, Crab Hill, St. Mary’s) is a relaxed British-owned beachfront restaurant set on one the best beaches in the area. Commended for its cocktails, cuisine is Frenchinspired with a Caribbean twist.

SUN RA (+1 268-720-3826, Dockyard Drive, English Harbour). Accessible by dinghy, Sun Ra is an unassuming wooden house on the water, serving fresh, homemade Mediterranean style cuisine.

CLOGGY’S (+1 268-460-6910, Dockyard Drive, Antigua Yacht Club Marina, Falmouth). In a new location, Dutch-owned Cloggy’s is one of our favourites in Antigua, voted ‘World’s Best Yachting Bar 2018’ in Scuttlebutt’s annual sailing survey.

ABRACADABRA RESTAURANT AND

DISCO-BAR (+1 268 460 27 01, Dockyard Drive, English Harbour, St Paul’s). This Italian restaurant and nightclub remains a firm favourite for yacht guests and crew alike, for great food, wine and for a dance when the volume is turned up. CATHERINE’S CAFÉ (+1 268-460-5050, Pigeon Point Beach, Falmouth Harbour) is an institution, on Pigeon Beach for over twenty years. Now managed by the same team behind Sheer Rocks, Catherine’s continues to delight its regulars who return time after time for its Provenceinspired menu and quality wine list.

CAMBUSA (+1 268-562-2226, Rodes Lane, Falmouth). Italian restaurant in a quiet, seafront location. Classic dishes prepared from the freshest local ingredients, made in front of diners in its show kitchen.

PAPA ZOUK (+1 268 464 6044, Hilda Davis Drive, Dickenson Bay Street, St John). In an unlikely suburban setting, this colourful shack-like restaurant stocks some 250 varieties of rum to accompany its fish and seafood repertoire.

guadeloupe·dining·out

No Michelin stars in Guadeloupe, but there are some decent, rustic local options available. Service, as in parts of France, can be quite variable…

AU BON VIVRE (+590 590 94-1984, 31 Rue Jean Calot, Terre-de-Haut) serves French cuisine, to a good standard and in smarter surroundings than average.

UN TI BÓ DOUDOU (+590 590 98-5667, 58 Rue Benoit Cassin, Terre-de-Haut) in a restored Créole building overlooking the beach and serves a range of French, Caribbean and sea food. TI KAZ LA (+590 690 65-5228, 10 Rue Benoit Cassin, Terre-de-Haut) is a fun and arty terrace on the beach. French, Caribbean, European cuisine with flair. The mango soufflé dessert is a speciality and must be ordered in advance.

CAFE DE LA MARINE (+590 590 99-5378, 19 Rue Jean Calot, Terre-de-Haut) as the name would suggest, is sea food restaurant, serving fresh catch overlooking the dock.

COULEURS DU MONDE (+590 590 92-7098, 33 Rue Jean Calot, Terre-de-Haut) is a beach shack in a terrific setting. Basic, but charming, good food, with plastic chairs.