Islands, islands, islands Discover alternative pursuits to beach-bumming or shopping

from The Y' Yachting Itineraries 2019 - by Estela Superyacht Agency

by 'The Y' Yachting Itineraries by ESTELA Superyacht Agency

Our Balearic backyard

sardinia

Sardinia lies outside the circuit of civilisation, D.H. Lawrence observed in his 1921 travel book, ‘Sea and Sardinia’. No ancient occupiers ever subdued the island’s intrinsic character, the author continues, slipping through the net of the old European civilisation. Indeed, Sardinia is different.

A staple on the superyacht trail since the 1960s, Sardinia’s enduring appeal is as clear as the waters that surround it. Unspoilt white beaches, a lush, rustic interior and a sense of exclusivity keep yacht owners and guests returning here season after season. A rich cultural legacy dating back to the Bronze Age includes Catalan, Phoenician, Carthaginian, Roman and Piemontese occupation, providing plenty of historic interest and remnants to explore. Its rugged, unspoilt hinterland is home to some four million sheep, the last wild horses to be found in Europe and a herd of albino miniature donkeys, but it’s the coast that most visitors come for.

The jewel in Sardinia’s crown is Costa Smeralda, where most yachts tend to be found during their visit, though there is plenty else to explore. Not least, Sardinia’s scuba diving is among the very best in the Mediterranean. Rich in sea life, some interesting wrecks and formations and, thanks to the abundance of Posidonia sea grass, great visibility, attracting divers of all levels of experience.

Tip: Our friends at Seastar Shipping are on hand to provide any support you require and make any necessary arrangements on the spot. +39 349 2456184 info@seastarshipping.it

Tip: For your stop on Sardinia’s west coast, MARINA ALGHERO, established in 1998, offers 60 berths up to 70m, offering all the finest facilities our clients expect.

alghero

The former Catalan colony of Alghero is a popular stop on the north western side of the island, with a charming historic centre nestled behind a lively port, on a beautiful stretch of coast. The centre of town comes alive in summer, with pretty winding cobbled lanes lined with boutiques, cafés and eateries, and picturesque piazzas with medieval churches. The biggest sightseeing attraction near here is ‘Grotta di Nettuno’, or Neptune’s Cave, featuring spectacular rock formations, lit up for dramatic effect. The caves date from the Neolithic age and extend some 4 km, though are only partially accessible to the public. For guided access, take a boat trip from Alghero marina, or arrange a transfer to the clifftop and walk the 650 steps down the

‘goats stairway’. Worth a passing glance by tender, at least.

Having soaked up the sun and wandered around the lanes in the early evening, take a walk along the old sea walls around the edge of town and catch the spectacular sun set over the tall cliffs of Capo Caccia.

DINING out

There is a profusion of touristic restaurants in Alghero, but the best in town is LA LEPANTO (Via Carlo Alberto 135, +39 079 979116), where the lobster is a speciality on the mostly seafood menu. More rustic, but also rated are IL PAVONE (Piazza Sulis 3, +39 079 979584) for seafood and pasta, and AL TUGHURI (Via Maiorca 113, +39 079 976772) with meat and fish dishes prepared on an open grill, while it also offers a decent vegetarian menu.

North West

La Pelosa beach

Stintino is a small village founded only in 1885 by fishermen originally from

La Pelosa Beach 40°57‘59.8“N 8°12‘37.1“E

Asinara, a small island off the northwestern tip of Sardinia, which is now predominantly inhabited by blue-eyed, miniature albino donkeys.

The main draw to this part of the island is La Pelosa beach, the first of a series of white, open beaches in this area, and its sands are regarded as the finest Sardinia has to offer. Shallow, azure waters resemble a natural swimming pool, attracting large crowds in the high season. If you plan on coming ashore for some beach time, officious wardens will insist on a mat or base under your towel.

Next up is Le Saline, named after the nearby salt marshes in the Gulf of Saline. This beach is layered with crushed pebbles and is a popular spot for sailing and windsurfing. It can get crowded in places, but the 9km long stretch towards Fiume Santo means there’s always somewhere to get away from the unwashed. If you’re an early morning walker/runner, this is the place to come. At Ezzi Mannu, the beach turns pebbly and tends to be quieter at peak times.

The area is popular with birdwatchers, particularly in the autumn when migrating species are passing through. Flocks of flamingos can reach a hundred or more, alongside resident birds of prey and a wide variety of waders. For flamingos in particular, visit the World Heritage Site at Molentargius in the south near Cagliari, where they congregate in greater number.

At the northern tip of this part of the island is the rugged headland of Capo Falcone, named after the peregrine falcon that nests here. From the Falcone tower, built in 1537, there are stunning views of Isola Piana, a nature reserve islet, to the south west, and of Asinara just to the north.

Skirting east along the Gulf of Asinara, passing the popular wind and kite-surfing beach of Platamona, we reach Castelsardo, a picturesque historic town. As the name would suggest, its primary feature is the 12th century Castello dei Doria and its fortifications.

Passing more beaches inhabited by wind-seekers and family daytrippers, we work our way around to glamorous northeastern parts.

North East

Maddalena Archipelago

This exclusive pocket of Sardinia, in the Strait of Bonifacio, is as though it was made for yachting. Comprising seven main islands and fifty-five ‘isolotti’, Maddalena Archipelago has been a Unesco World Heritage site since 1994, preserving its stunning natural beauty. With umpteen unspoilt coves, lagoons and beaches to explore, many accessible only by boat, guests are able to play and relax away from prying eyes. Head for Budelli, Razzoli and Santa Maria if it’s privacy you seek.

There has been some development of tourism here since the closure of NATO’s naval base on La Maddalena eleven years ago, though not enough to spoil things for the elite traveller. In fact,

thanks to having become accustomed to US naval personnel and their dollars over the decades, service levels are higher here than in many parts of Italy.

Costa Smeralda, named after the emerald colour of its waters, stretches some 50 km from Cannigione in the Golfo di Arzachena, north around Capo Ferro, and south to Cugnana in the Golfo di Cugnana. It is where you come to rub fenders with the highest of rollers.

Largely undeveloped, aside from Port Cervo in the centre and, to a lesser extent, Porto Rotondo, Smeralda is about exclusivity and privacy, in contrast with the brash showing off for which, say, St Tropez or Monaco are renowned. Here, any hard partying —‘bunga bunga’ style or otherwise— mostly takes place on board at anchor, or in private villas, tucked discreetly away in´land.

Daytimes are for relaxing on a beach, one more beautiful than the next, and enjoying watersports in the clearest waters. But if it’s shopping you crave, most of the designer ‘usual suspects’ are found around the marina and in the town. Labels include Bvlgari, Dolce & Gabbana, Versace, Valentino, Prada, Gucci, Tod’s, Louis Vuitton, Roberto Cavalli, Missoni, Trussardi, Rossetti and Cartier. There is even a branch of Harrods and many exclusive lesserknown boutiques where you might get a made-tomeasure bikini, or even a tailored get-up for your Chihuahua; a visit to Porto Cervo is a wonderful opportunity to give the black card a real caning.

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DINING out

La Maddalena has many lively bars, cafés and trattorias, but for higher-end dining, head back over to Costa Smeralda. There are three Michelin-starred restaurants in Sardinia; one in Porto Cervo and the others in the south of the island. DAL CORSARO* in Cagliari and S’APPOSENTU* in Siddi. Perhaps it’s surprising that there aren’t more, given the clientele here, though Sards are different, after all.

East Sardinia

While many visitors don’t venture far beyond the Costa Smeralda during their stay, Sardinia’s east coast offers much more beautiful coastline, with many secluded beaches and coves for those who want to get away from it all. At ‘The Y’, we don’t do superlatives when photographs can do the talking, so here is some coastal imagery to entice you.

Spiaggia del Principe 41°05‘19.5“N 9°33‘49.3“E

Cala Capriccioli 41°04‘45.2“N 9°33‘14.8“E

Pevero 41°06‘58.9“N 9°32‘40.8“E

We can arrange for multi-lingual medical support on board, 24/7

MEDICAL ASSISTANCE

Support at every stage of your journey

Suffice to say, Sardinia is simply one of the finest coastal places on Earth.

The eastern coastline is protected from Sardinia’s westerly winds, making it perfect for paddle boarding or kayaking. Venturing inland, towns, villages and hamlets are small, rich in folkloric heritage and characteristic, gritty architecture. There are plenty of ancient ruins, typical murals, old churches and small museums that document their colourful history, but most visitors tend to stay on or near the water. olbia

Olbia is regarded as the gateway to northern Sardinia, with the island’s second airport and its busiest ferry terminal being closest to Costa Smeralda and other popular resorts. It is also a useful embarkation point for yachts, with Marina di Olbia being a stone’s throw from the airport, while our partners, First Bunker, are close by to supply fuel and lube.

However, there is more to Olbia than meets the eye, with a charming old town and pleasant shopping streets leading off Piazza Regina Margherita. There are plenty of boutiques and decent restaurants to while away a few hours in transit, if not a destination in their own right. The surrounding countryside is lovely, with the nearest attraction, the Nuraghic settlements of Nuraghe Riu Mulinu, found on the northern outskirts of the city and the Giant’s Grave of Su Monte de s’Abe to the south.

Tip: The large Auchan hypermarket in Olba (on the SS125, past the airport) is useful for provisions or ad hoc requirements and is open 7 days)

DINING out

Cala Coticcio 41°12‘54.9“N 9°29‘02.9“E

There are plenty of decent restaurants and trattorias in Porto Cervo to choose from, but just one is Michelin-starred, CONFUSION* (Promenade du Port, +39 340 1209574), so booking well ahead is strongly advisable. The only other establishment rated by the guide here is MADAI (Promenade du Port, +39 0789 91056).

Cagliari

If transiting through Cagliari airport with time on your hands, Italy’s Capital of Culture for 2015 is a pleasant enough place to explore. This hilltop town was once an important outpost in Roman times, while 13th century Pisans too stamped their personality on the city. The Castello neighbourhood, at the top of the hill, has a medieval feel and here you will find a number of museums documenting the town’s rich history.

Wandering down towards the port, along the warren of lanes, there are many churches and faded palazzi to enjoy, while the shopping district and the sea front around Poetto beach are lively with many bars, cafés and restaurants. Behind Poetto, to the east of the city, lie the lagoon of Santa Gilla and Molentargius Saline nature park, rich with birdlife. In addition to pink flamingos, cormorants and herons that are among the 70odd bird species that nest here, an estimated two hundred varieties pass through these wetlands.

Asinara

If blue-eyed, miniature, white albino donkeys are your thing, get across to Asinara, at the northwestern tip of Sardinia. A maximumsecurity penal colony for mafiosi and Red Brigaders until twenty years ago, the only inhabitants of Asinara now is a herd of some 120 small, wild donkeys, of which the majority are white albino. There are many theories as to how they arrived here, though favourite is that they are descendant

of Egyptian donkeys, brought over by Tunisian settlers. Quite why they were reared by the island’s farming community is unknown, but they stayed behind after King Umberto di Savoia ordered their keepers off the island in 1885, to build the prison.

Hiking and Climbing

Sardinia’s rugged, sparsely populated interior means great hiking trails and climbs. The Barbagia mountains in the east feature challenging trails for experienced hikers, while on the western side, near Montevecchio are mountainous paths more suited to walkers, offering stunning coastal views, of course. Its forests meanwhile offer beautiful waterfalls, rock formations and flora to explore.

In all instances, it’s advisable to book a local guide, as some of Sardinia’s terrain can be very challenging and unaccompanied explorers regularly require rescuing.

For climbers, Sardinia has some 6,000 sport climbing routes. One of the outstanding favourites is the 148m high Aguglia rock at Cala Goloritzè, a free-standing limestone formation presenting a superb slab climb.

Horse riding

Sardinia has a deep equestrian tradition and offers lots of riding possibilities for riders of all abilities, ranging from complex trails to bareback riding on the beach.

In the north, the Valledoria area has many paths for experienced riders, while more relaxing trails in the north-east take in the Gallurese coast, with its stunning land- and seascapes. There are many riding centres around the island, though one of the biggest is the Horse Country Resort in western Arborea, offering a full range of lessons and guided tours for all ages and abilities.

Hunting

Alongside Sardinia’s population of four million sheep, indigenous wild boar, or ‘cinghiale’, are abundant and hunted only between November and January. A staple of Sardinian cuisine, these wild pigs can weigh up to 100 kg, roaming around the millions of cork oaks, feeding on acorns. Out of season, there are practice hunts that visitors can join. If wanting to combine cruising and shooting, consider coming during September or October.

Hunting is an intrinsic part of life here and hare, Sardinian partridge, woodcock, snipe, wild rabbit, lark, pigeon and quail are among the many varieties found.

Hunting in Italy is tightly regulated, but there are a number of local lodges that can facilitate visitors, providing batters, dogs, guns and equipment. For non-participants, there are alternative country pursuits such as lake fishing, hiking and clay shooting. and mushrooms. Other parts of Italy are larger producers, but varieties such as ovolo, gallinaccio and porcino nero, are abundant here, as well as a range of truffles.

Particularly in the woods around Laconi, you can join organised forages, with dogs, to seek the prized white truffle, though you are more likely to come away with black summer or winter truffle, depending on what time of year you visit.

Scuba diving

Foraging

For hunting of a different kind, dense forests here are fertile ground for truffles With some 1800 km of coastline and crystal clear waters, Sardinia offers some of the very best diving in the Mediterranean. In summer there is a thermocline at 12 metres, where temperatures drop to around 15C or so, while winter temps are around 13C, rising to 24C by late summer. The sea remains above 20C throughout October, though weather can be changeable. May offers the best visibility, up to 40 metres, but waters are on the cool side.

Sardinia is a wonderful place to dive, either for experienced divers or novices, with well lit dives down to 70 metres and

a great variety, including caves, corals and crustaceans. Because of the island’s position along busy strategic shipping lanes, surrounding waters are also littered with a variety of wrecks.

Predictably, the north east part of the island is the busiest, with the archipelago of La Maddalena and Bonifacio Strait boasting some forty dive sites. Its granite rocks, drop offs, overhangs, swim-throughs and caves are fertile habitat for a large variety of fish, molluscs and crustaceans. Moray eel, stone fish, bream, conger eel, barracuda, grouper, octopus, crab, lobster and lots of nudibranches are typical.

If you’re a fan of friendly grouper, Lavezzi is the dive site for you. This area of the protected marine park is commonly known as ‘Grouper City’, where these wonderful fish flourish. Accustomed to divers, they get up close and tend to follow you around closely. Snapper, sea bass and barracuda are also common sight here.

Further south, down the east coast, the islands of Tavolara and Molara offer another 20 dive sites, including a wreck and sea-life including barracuda, snapper and large octopus. Snorkelers here will also see large schools of chromis and wrasse. Dive sites Papa Bank 1 and 2, to the east of Tavolara, have beautiful coral and you may see large mobula rays and moray eels tucked in among yellow cluster anemones.

The Molara wreck is one of two ships sunk in 1941 during WWII just off Tavolara, 70 metres long and lying at 35m, where there are always schools of saddled sea bream, red mullet and snapper, as well as grouper, eels and lobsters. Il Grottone is a great leisurely dive; a shallow, wide cavern no deeper than 15m and well lit, filled with colourful

algae and sponges, while fish are plentiful in the surrounding area.

Over on the western side, off Alghero, Sardinia’s shoreline caves are replicated underwater, with some of Europe’s largest caves found at Capo Caccia, in a system of over a hundred caverns in its limestone cliffs. Rare red coral can be found here at only 10 metres.

Among them are Nereo’s Cave, aka the ‘Old Man of the Sea’, the biggest marine cave in the Mediterranean, featuring a system of arches, tunnels, air chambers and caves deep inside the mountain.

Falco’s Cave leads to a dry chamber where divers can take off their gear and look around its stalactites and stalagmites, while the cave is teeming with hermit crabs. Deer Cave is a partially submerged cavern named after a an ancient deer fossil found there, thought to be 100,000 years old.

gulf of naples and isles

ponza

If venturing inland to Rome and Castelli Romani doesn’t tempt you, consider instead exploring some tiny islands in the Pontine Archipelago, to the south of Anzio. Ponza is where modern day Romans come for long weekends and short breaks, though the likes of Beyoncé and Jay Z, Bruce Springsteen and Rihanna have been spotted here too in recent times.

Just a short hop from Anzio, or on the way to the mainland from Sardinia, at merely 7km square, Ponza is the largest of six small volcanic islands in the Tyrrhenian Sea, that were once a penal colony. Caligula’s eldest brother, Nero Caesar, was deported and killed here in 29 AD, followed by two of the emperor’s sisters ten years later, for plotting to overthrow their brother.

These days, you’ll find mostly Italian residents or visitors, here to enjoy the tranquility and natural beauty that the island and its surroundings offer. Ponza is low-key, without any fancy shopping or posing, so if you’re looking to get ‘papped’ on the back of your Lürssen, this isn’t the place for you.

The island itself is a crude rock in crystal clear waters, not offering much in terms of landscape, but it is the surrounding seascape that is the main attraction. Visitors all take to the water during their stay, but there are ample limestone coves and crags to explore and for it not to get overcrowded. Some have beaches buzzing with revellers on a day out, while others are deserted and peaceful. Volcanic waters are ethereal and perfect for snorkelling or just paddling around. Young children enjoy splashing in the tide pools.

There are a dozen sites for scuba divers to explore, with a well-preserved WWII landing ship, USS ‘LST 349’ wreck at 25m, and numerous rock and wall dives with stunning formations, rich in fish such as bream, groupers and a range of organisms.

Given the predominance of fussy Roman eaters, food is of excellent quality, whether you seek just-caught simplicity in a basic café, or the Michelin-starred elegance of ‘ACQUA PAZZA’ (+39 077 180 643), in the old port.

ventotene

Even smaller than Ponza, also in the Pontine Archipelago, is Ventotene. Just 1.54 km square, this island has less than a thousand permanent inhabitants and, like its neighbour, is primarily a weekend retreat for Romans and Neapolitans.

Ventotene’s first claim to fame is that emperor Augustus had a large villa built here, not as a holiday home, but as somewhere to incarcerate family members. Its first regal occupant was his own daughter, Julia the Elder, Caligula’s grandmother, banished for ‘excessive adultery’. Later, Agrippina the Elder, Caligula’s mother, would be sent here too by emperor Tiberius, after she accused him of having her husband, Germanicus, murdered. The subsequent death of her brother brought her own sons in line for succession, though her banishment wouldn’t prevent her younger son, Caligula, from acceding.

The island was inhabited intermittently over the centuries, but would only become a permanent place to live once the small town was established in the 18th century. A formal prison was also built on the neighbouring islet

of Santo Stefano, which became the involuntary home of anti-fascist intellectuals, Altiero Spinelli and Ernesto Rossi, during WWII. Here, they would write a document entitled ‘Per un’Europa libera e unita’, now better known as the ‘Ventotene Manifesto’. It set out the concept of a federalised Europe and was the kernel that led to the formation of the European Union.

Ventotene is a thin reeflike ridge, some 3km long, with a single town at the northern end, a small port for fishing and private vessels and a terminal for cruise liners, plus a heliport. Like Ponza, its waters are great for swimming and snorkelling, while half a dozen dive sites have a rich variety of sea life, as well as the wreck ‘Santa Lucia’ at 43 metres, a passenger ferry sunk in 1943. Particularly recommended are the ‘Secca dell’Archetto’ tunnel at 50m, full of sponges and anemones, as well as ‘Punta dell’Arco’, up to 40m, with two caves rich in plant life.

While no Michelin inspectors have probably visited Ventotene, there are a number of informal restaurants and eateries to choose from, serving locally-caught fare alongside standard Italian classics. The highestrated is ‘IL GIARDINO’ (+39 0771 85020), a familyrun restaurant that has a loyal following of returning visitors.

ischia mineral springs and its picturesque coastline. It is less glitzy than the smaller

As though spun Capri at the southern end off from the top of the Bay, regarded more of the Bay of as a quiet health resort Naples, Isola d’Ischia made for spending is an ancient isle first a leisurely few days. colonised by the Greeks in the 8th century BC. The Ischia’s naturally heated volcanic, mountainous thermal water can be rock is home today to enjoyed in a number of some 60,000 Neapolitans, thermal parks throughout whose lives revolve spring and summer, or around tourism, agri- and you can dip into the warm viticulture, while many waters of Sorgeto all year commute to Naples. round. Sorgeto is a coastal inlet accessible from the The greatest attractions westerly village of Panza, are Ischia’s famous thermal though beware the very hot pebbles! Islanders have been cooking on them for centuries, preparing complete meals at this spot, using free heat provided by Mother Earth. And as you luxuriate in the hot, salty seawater bath, enjoy the most glorious sunset. At the eastern end, the stretch from Ischia Porto towards the waterfront at Ischia Ponte is a wonderful area to explore on foot, with colourful buildings, parks, shops, cafés and restaurants along tree-lined rambling

lanes. The quayside overlooks crystal blue waters towards Procida and the mainland in the distance.

‘Ponte’ refers to Ponte Aragonese bridge that leads to a small bulbous peninsula, home to Castello Aragonese. Its fortifications date back to the 5th century BC when the castle was named ‘Castrum Gironis’, passing through the Middle Ages as ‘Insula Minor’ before emerging in the Renaissance as ‘Castello Aragonese’, after the dynasty of Alfonso I of Aragon in the 15th century AD. The castle remains in private hands and stages cultural events all year round.

Just 12km across the island on the western edge lies Forio, the largest town on Ischia. A favourite destination for Tennessee Williams and Truman Capote in the 1950s, Forio is well known for its beautiful botanical gardens, four fine beaches and excellent restaurants.

Worth a look is the whitewashed little church perched right at the tip of the island, Chiesa del Soccorso. Its origins date back to 1350, when it was an Augustinian Monastery, though it was rebuilt after an earthquake reduced it to rubble in 1883. It’s an evocative little building in a stunning location that has been known to move visitors to tears at sunset.

To the south lies Sant’ Angelo, where you will find understated chic boutiques in old fishing cottages and piazzas lined with great places to eat and drink, while watching the world go by.

The largest beach on the island lies to the east of Sant’Angelo, Maronti Beach, stretching 2 km across to the village of the same name. The village itself has little to offer but places for sustenance and rehydration after a hot day at the beach.

Scuba Diving

Ischia is popular with hikers, with its mountainous terrain offering stunning views at every turn, which can also be enjoyed on horseback. But offshore, its crystalline volcanic waters contain some superb dive sites. Punta Campanella has deep ancient wrecks for advanced divers, but for beginners and leisure divers this site is rich in marine life. Fish varieties found here include large gorgonians, anthias, amberjacks and tuna, while the sea bed is a carpet of sponges.

Mitigliano has an easily navigated corridor adorned with corals, with many fish and red shrimp feeding there, leading to a cavern full of sea anemones. Further, there are wall dives, drift dives, a large statue of the Virgin Mary on a coral-covered floor, with lots of sea life all around.

Dining out

Ischia boasts four Michelinstarred restaurants, with the most inventive being DANÌ MAISON** (+39 081 993 190, Via i Traversa Montetignuso 28) in the centre of Ischia town, in the east. Opened in 2016 in the house that belonged to his parents and grandparents, chef Nino Di Costanzo opened a small, romantic dining room surrounded by a beautiful Mediterranean garden. IL MOSAICO* (+39 081 994 722, Piazza Bagni 4). Creative cooking, elegant dining rooms and terrace. INDACO* (+39 081 994 322, Piazza Restituta 1, Lacco Ameno) Creative seafood, quayside, overlooking a mushroomshaped rock for which the town is famous.

If it’s a view you’re after, hop across the water to the tip of the mainland at Miseno, where you will find CARACOL* (+39 081 523 3052, Via del Faro 44, Bacoli), just up from the lighthouse. Perched at the top of the cliff, diners enjoy traditional regional cuisine with a modern twist, overlooking Procida and Ischia.

procida

Next up, towards the Bay of Naples, is Procida. Another volcanic island, no bigger than 4km square, this effective ‘suburb’ of the city is densely populated, with 10,000 inhabitants.

Outside the colourful town, Procida is a naturally attractive place with stunning views, dotted with villas belonging to affluent Neapolitan weekenders. Procida’s main USP seems to be that it is generally overlooked by visitors to nearby Ischia, which in fairness has more to offer as a tourist destination. Procida, on the other hand is modest and authentic as a place to live and work, not having been spruced up for visitors. It’s a bit shabby, but charming, like Capri but without the cash.

The island’s main attractions are the quay

at Marina Corricella, in the northeast, and the town behind with a maze of narrow streets. There is a large leisure marina to the north and a smattering of beaches, of which the best is Lido di Procida, on the southwestern coast, near natural Marina Chiaiolella.

In August, the world and its mother comes here from the mainland, though the rest of the year Procida makes a pleasant stop without the hordes. There aren’t an enormous amount of attractions or must-see monuments on Procida, but a trek up to Terra Murata is worthwhile. This fortified settlement has been a monastery and a prison and is the highest point of the island, giving wonderful view of the Bay and nearby islands.

To the south, you will see the islet of Vivara, a protected nature reserve accessible to the public via a footbridge, only open from Friday to Sunday. Its thousands of paths are lined with a wide range of lush vegetation and rare plants, and it is home to wild rabbits and migrating birds. The only building here is the ‘Bourbon Hunting Lodge’ built by Duke De Guevara in 1681.

For Michelin dining, head over to Ischia or to the mainland at Bacoli, but here you will find plenty of welcoming bistros and bars that pass muster. For a sweet snack with your coffee, try the local ’Lingue di Procida’ (Tongues of Procida), a patisserie made of puff pastry filled with custard.

Scuba Diving

While the waters between Ischia and Ventotene are richer in marine mammals, the protected waters around Procida and Vivara contain some great dive sites.

At the northern end, volcanic cliffs, canyons and caverns down to 28m contain lots of flora and fauna, with yellow and white anemones, sponges, morays, octopus, scorpion fish and suchlike. To the south, a wall dive extends to 70m, with bigger fish including barracudas and large amounts of red coral teeming with wildlife.

capri

We skip across the Bay of Napoli to Capri, less than a quarter the size of Ischia and with many more zillionaires per square inch. While other islands in the vicinity are very much about getting away from it all, this small limestone rock is about being in the heart of the action. Capri has been pulling in the jet set for decades, but many hundreds of years before jets were even dreamt about, emperor Tiberius first put it on the map. He built a dozen villas here, completing the most famous, Villa Jovis, in 27 AD on top of Monte Tiberio, 330 metres up.

The island fell dormant after the emperors passed, but found favour again in the 19th century when writers, artists and poets rediscovered its charms. The glitz came from the 1950s and 60s onwards when the likes of Audrey Hepburn and Jackie Onassis

would be seen gracing Capri’s cobbled lanes. Today, you’re as likely to run into Taylor Swift or Leonardo diCaprio, as Valentino and ‘King’ James Lebron.

Rule number one about visiting Capri is to avoid August entirely, as it is day-tripper hell. If you know your way around, there are quiet refuges to be found, but if your intention is to see ‘the sights’, just don’t. Not in August, anyway.

Capri is split in two, with sassy Capri Town on the eastern side and Anacapri in the west, where ‘normal’ residents live, usually farmers, fishermen or working in tourism. The two sides are separated by a wall of cliffs and the only way to get around Capri on land is either on foot or by quirky stretched open top taxi.

Staying on the water is an excellent way to enjoy its rugged beauty, as the craggy limestone coastline and surrounding seascape are what make it so special.

Coming ashore, stepping off at Marina Grande, make your way due south to the Piazzetta, the heart of the city where everyone comes to see and be seen. From morning coffee until late-night negroni, its four café terraces provide some of the finest peoplewatching on the planet.

From the town square, walk along Via Tragara and on to Belvedere di Tragara, leading to a terrace with a phenomenal view of the Faraglioni, the famous landmark rocks off Capri’s south-eastern tip, with three limestone spurs pointing out of the sea.

From this vantage point, there is a footpath leading around the south-eastern corner, eventually bringing you out overlooking Arco Naturale (1.5km, 30 mins walk), giving you stunning views all along the coastline.

Alternatively, head west from Belvedere di Tragara and walk the hairpinned Via Krupp, passing a bust of Lenin, down to the water’s edge at Marina Piccola and stop off at

La Canzone del Mare

beach club, which is a great place for a sunbathe and a swim. If you enjoy a hike, there are some great trails to explore the island, but its beauty is best enjoyed from the water. Taking the tender around, you will find secret coves and caverns and villas perched prone on perilous cliff edges above. The deep blue waters take on a whole new dimension inside the two grottos on the island, with Grotta Verde on the south coast and the larger, more famous, Grotta Azzurra in the north.

To enter, you will need to transfer to a smaller rowing boat, which may

involve a wait, but it also possible to swim inside when it’s quiet, though technically it is forbidden. The cavern is 60m long and 25m wide at its widest point, lit by the most ethereal blue light, almost a surreal experience. Tiberius had built a quay in the cave around AD 30, complete with a shrine to the water nymph, a nymphaeum. The carved Roman landing stage a the back of the cave remains visible.

Villa Jovis

Back on land, among the main sights are the ruins of Emperor Tiberius’s Villa Jovis, a pleasant half-hour walk east out of town. The view from here was famously described by novelist Graham Greene as “some of the loveliest scenery on earth”. The author had a home on the island for forty years, despite describing it as “not really my kind of place”. One wouldn’t think Capri to be the kind of place for Vladimir Lenin either, though he famously holidayed here, visiting Maxim Gorky in 1908.

The remains of the villa are sufficient to give a sense of its palatial scale, while fine views over the Sorrento peninsula explain why Tiberius chose to rule

from here. At the top of the cliff, ‘Salto di Tiberio’ (Tiberius’ Leap) was also the perfect spot from which the ruthless emperor would throw enemies and subjects to their death. Villa Jovis was his largest and most sumptuous residence, said to stand over 50 metres tall, with extensive gardens and a bathing complex designed for the kind of debauchery that would make Caligula blush. Villa Lysis

If art nouveau design is your thing, proceed from Villa Jovis to neighbouring Villa Lysis, known locally as Villa Fersen, on the northeastern tip of the island. The villa was built in 1905 by French industrialist and poet, Jacques d’Adelswärd-Fersen, after he exiled himself following a Parisian sex scandal involving schoolboys and naked static models [there is a theme developing here...].

The villa, originally named ‘La Gloriette’, had been dedicated by the poet to the ‘youth of love’, but it was the love of youth, rather, that had gotten him into hot water. Now owned by the local authority, the villa has lost some of its former splendour and is virtually empty, but its views are

undiminished and it holds a fascinating history of a tortured soul. As an opium addict, Fersen died of suicide in 1923, taking a fatal dose of cocaine mixed with Champagne, drunk from a silver cup. In the basement, the baron’s smoking den housed a collection of 3,000 opium pipes and was decorated with all manner of symbolic motifs, including a Sanskrit fylfot (swastika) to signify wellbeing.

Villa San Michele

Another grand house worth a visit is Villa San Michele, in Anacapri on the northern side of the island. Take the Seggiovia del Monte Solaro, the old-fashioned chairlift, on a breathtaking 13-minute ride to the top of Capri’s tallest peak. Here, you will find Villa San Michele di Axel Munthe, to give it its full unofficial title, built on the site of the ruins of another Roman villa, by Swedish doctor, psychiatrist and author, Axel Munthe.

Munthe had first visited Capri as a teenager and later managed to acquire a ruined chapel

on the site, rebuilding it into a sumptuous villa with glorious views. A ferocious collector, Munthe assembled what is now a museum full of more than a thousand art objects from antiquity up to the 20th century. From June onwards, the museum also stages classical concerts in the gardens.

Chiesa di San Michele Arcangelo

If you walk from Villa San Michele back towards the chairlift, walk five minutes further and visit the Church of San Michele Arcangelo, whose unique feature is an 18th century glaze-tiled floor depicting Adam and Eve in the Garden of Eden, with a range of weird and wonderful creatures. For the best view of the floor, there is a small viewing gallery up the spiral staircase.

Capri Town

Life in Capri Town is mostly about shopping, sauntering along its narrow, winding lanes and more shopping, interspersed with drinking and eating on one of its many terraces, watching everyone else do the same.

The luxury shopping triangle goes from Piazza Umberto I to Via Camerelle and Via Le Botteghe. The usual suspects are ready to help you flex your plastic, including Cavalli, Ferragamo, Armani, Valentino, Gucci, Pucci, Louis Vuitton, Cartier, Dolce & Gabbana, Miu Miu, Moschino, Tod’s, and so on. There are a number of stores that are ‘musts’ for Capri-specific shopping, such as Le Parisienne, Mariorita, Grazia e Marica Vozza, Amina Rubunacci

and l’Arte del Sandalo Caprese, for clothing and sandals. For fragrance Carthusia and for jewellery Chantecler, La Campanina, and La Perla Gioielli are your go-to for Caprese gifts. Or, depending on taste, there is also Capri Watch. Luckily, there remains room for independent ateliers and boutiques, for that one-off or rarelyspotted item. If it isn’t labels you are after, consider nipping across to Anacapri, where life, and the shopping, is much more low-key.

Weary shoppers can take refuge from retail madness in Giardini di Augusto, the gardens near Certosa di San Giacomo, founded by Emperor Augustus. Its flowered terraces themselves are pleasant if unremarkable, but they climb to a superb vantage point from where to view the Faraglioni.

Dining out There is one Michelin two-starred establishment on the island, with three more within easy reach on the mainland. In Anacapri, L’OLIVO** (+39 081 97 80 111, Via Capodimonte 2) serves creative mediterranean cuisine, such as its signature dish of lemonscented tagliolini with burrata cheese, red prawns and sea asparagus. The island is also home to two one-star restaurants, with MAMMÀ* (+39 081 837 7472, Via Padre Serafino Cimmino, 6) a two-minute stroll from Piazzetta, and IL RICCIO* (+39 081 837 1380, Via Gradola 4) a taxi or tender ride away in the Capri Palace hotel, on the cliffs of Anacapri.

pompeii

If you are in the area, stopping off at Pompeii, for even a few hours, is a must. This site continues to reveal insights into ancient city life in Campania, with excavation expected to last for many more years. As we write in March 2019, there were reports only this week of an ancient ‘fast food’ counter having been found, so now we know that the Romans liked fingerlickin’ chicken too.

The other side of Mount Vesuvius, some 20 km south-east of Naples, Pompeii had been a city of 20,000 inhabitants when an earthquake virtually leveled the area, leading it to be almost entirely deserted in 62 AD. By the time a violent eruption of Mount Vesuvius finished the job in 79 AD, a remaining population of 2,000 people perished under a layer of pumice stone and ash to a depth of seven metres. The surviving Greco-Roman buildings and monuments that had survived the quake were pristinely preserved, protected from the elements, looting and vandalism, not to be found until 1,500 years later. Excavation has been ongoing for almost 300 years. First mentioned in 310 BC, Pompeii’s history has seen it founded by Neolithic descendants, occupied by Greeks, Etruscans, the Greeks again, and Samnites, before Rome conquered Campania and subjugated Pompeii’s reluctant occupants in 88 BC.

Fast-forwarding to the present day, Pompeii is an amazing assembly of ruins, mosaics, artefacts and sculptures documenting everyday life in Roman times. There are also eerie casts of people who died under the rubble, made from cement poured into the cavities left in the volcanic ash, where human remains had decomposed.

A number of villas, temples, tombs, colonnades and bath houses are well preserved, while there are many mosaics, frescoes and inscriptions that provide an insight into GrecoRoman life in the region. Perhaps more telling are the hundreds of private dwellings, documenting the domestic lives of the populace, rather than just those of the elite. There are bakeries, complete with mills, kneading machines and ovens, as well as tooling shops, garum factories and food and wine shops. Eyeopening in particular are the remains of a Roman brothel, the ‘Lupanare’, containing fascinating and surprisingly explicit sexual imagery and artefacts.

Pornographic frescoes were designed to provide ‘visual inspiration’ for clients, before proceeding to one of the five bedrooms on the ground floor, complete with stone bed and latrine. Declarations of love and hope are inscribed in the rooms’ walls by the establishment’s workers.

Fresco in Villa of the Mysteries

Lupanare, the most famous ruined brothel

Tip: To get the most out of your visit to Pompeii, we can arrange your transfer and private tour.

sorrento

Sorrento is more of a gateway to elsewhere than a destination in its own right, given its position central to attractions such as Pompeii and Herculaneum to the north, Amalfi and Positano to the south, and the nearby islands. However, Greeks, Etruscans, Byzantines, Longobards, Normans, Aragons, Oscans and Romans all left their mark on this place, making it an essential stop on the ‘Grand Tour’, the 17th and 18th-century pilgrimage made by European nobility in search of cultural enrichment.

Literary and artistic greats including Byron, Keats, Tolstoy, Dickens, Goethe, Wagner, Ibsen and Nietzsche too spent time in Sorrento, inspired by its deep and colourful cultural history.

Today, Sorrento remains worth a visit, as a picturesque stop on a Tyrrhenian itinerary along the Gulf of Naples. Narrow cobbled lanes, pastel-coloured old buildings, faded palazzos and churches tucked down the narrow back streets make this an atmospheric town that has perhaps retained its integrity, more than other popular spots on the peninsula.

Stepping off at one of the town’s two marinas, make your way up towards the central square, Piazza Tasso, from where you can take a left down the newly pedestrianised main street, Corso Italia. Sorrento’s main avenue is lined with both high street and designer names, as well as individual boutiques, cafés and bars. But it is down the side streets where you will find small shops and ateliers making and selling marquetry, ceramics, leather goods, antiques and limoncello, of course, for which the town is famous. In between the shuttered photogenic houses are tucked away the occasional church, small square and palazzo. Sorrento is an Instagrammer’s paradise to explore at leisure.

Sheer cliffs plunging into azure waters is what makes the region so beautiful and Sorrento’s best views are to be had from Villa Comunale park. The park itself is unremarkable, but a small bar and, in the summer, live classical music make the sunset especially romantic. If you prefer to take in the sunset in more comfort and away from T-shirted crowds, head instead for an aperitivo on the fabulous terrace of the art nouveau Grand Hotel Vittoria.

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Around town, there are some notable churches such as the Duomo, built in the 11th century, rebuilt in the 15th century in Roman style, with an exterior fresco and elegant majolica clock. The interior features typical local marquetry and unusual 16th century bishop’s throne. Another is the Basilica di Sant’Antonino, named after Sorrento’s patron saint, credited with a number of miracles including the rescue of a boy from a whale’s stomach, marked by two whale ribs displayed inside the entrance. The saint’s remains lie in the crypt beneath the church’s beautiful floor, while the display of silver coins from grateful sailors, devoted to the saint are worth seeing.

Heading away from the coast, behind Piazza Tasso, there is a striking deep valley, dating from a volcanic eruption some 36,000 years ago. Looking down from Via Fuorimura, the ground below was home to 13th

century flour mills, operating until 1866. Now overgrown, the ruins of Vallone dei Mulino are a dramatic sight.

Two museums worth a visit are Museo Correale di Terranova housing the family art collection of Count Terranova, comprising a wide range of Neapolitan paintings and artefacts and large collection of 18th century European clocks. The palazzo also has beautiful gardens with many rare plants and flowers, as well as glorious views of Vesuvius and Naples. The other is Museo

Bottega della Tarsia

Lignea, which is mainly devoted to the local art of marquetry, but also holds a series of paintings by Italian and other 19th century artists, such as Carelli, Pitloo, Volpe, Colemann and Scedrin.

Dining out

There are a host of single Michelin-starred restaurants either in town or within striking distance. But for two-star excellence, consider

DON ALFONSO 1890**

(+39 081 87 80 026, Corso Sant Agata 11, Sant Agata), a 20-minute drive south, for creative Mediterranean cuisine in a luxurious dining room and a wine cellar housed in extraordinary caves. By tender, head for Port of Seiano, where

TORRE DEL SARACINO**

(+39 081 80 28 555, Via Torretta 9, Marina Equa) stands next to a military watchtower overlooking the bay, showcasing distinctive southern Italian cuisine.

positano

One of the most picturesque places on Earth, Positano’s appeal is obvious. Pastel coloured houses almost defy gravity as they perch, stacked on top of one another, against the sheer cliffs of this most glorious piece of coastline. Positano is mostly about aesthetics than a cultural destination, though Greeks and Phoenicians were early visitors, while the Roman ruling classes built grand villas here. Its name stems from the Greek god, Poseidon. This former fishing village of only 4,000 inhabitants is now mainly about tourism and has been an essential part of any Amalfi itinerary for decades, since the American Nobel and Pulitzer-winning author, John Steinbeck, put it on the map. In a 1953 essay in Harper’s Bazaar he wrote of Positano, “It is a dream place that isn’t quite real when you are there and becomes beckoningly real after you have gone.”

Before Steinbeck’s intervention, the village had fallen from grace, with much of its wealth dissipated since its glory days as a major trading centre in the Amalfi Republic up to the 17th century. But from the 1950s onwards, the great and the good from stage, screen and music have been regular visitors here. Nowadays, it also an essential stop for yachts, of course, at anchor in the bay.

Making your way ashore, you will pass the Sirenuse archipelago, also known locally as Li Galli (the Cocks). It is a trio of small islands, mythically once occupied by sirens including Parthenope, Leucosia, and Ligeia, responsible for tempting weak-kneed sailors onto the rocks. In the real world, however, it was a former monastery, then a prison. Russian choreographer and dancer Leonide Massine purchased Gallo Lungo in 1922, converting the prison into a villa. It was acquired by his friend, Rudolf Nureyev, in 1988, who lived here until his death in 1993.

Positano’s beaches, Spiaggia Grande and Spiaggia del Fornillo are about their views and crystal waters, rather than beautiful sands, while its shopping is more boutiquey, arty, crafty than high-end label.

Positano was the first place in Italy to stock bikinis in the 1960s and swimwear fashion remains a strong tradition. It’s just a fabulous place to relax, wander about and soak up the ambience.

Positano isn’t pristine and doesn’t have the glitz of Capri; it feels like ‘old money’ and is more low key. So, if you seek atmosphere with fewer paparazzi lurking in the wisteria, this is the place for you.

Dining out

There are umpteen Michelin-rated eateries to choose from in the vicinity, particularly with a tender at your disposal. However, for dining in Positano itself, there are two excellent single-starred establishments to decide between.

LA SPONDA, (+39 089 875 066, Via Colombo 30) in the legendary ‘Le Sirenuse’ hotel, is particularly noted for its sea food menu. A romantic dining room is lit nightly with 400 candles, while its terrace has a wonderful westerly view across the bay, looking out over the Sirenusas archipelago.

LA SERRA (+39 089 811 980, Via Marconi 127) in Le Agavi hotel, is at the opposite end of town, with its terrace looking out in an easterly direction. A young chef here is making waves with cutting edge Neapolitan cuisine, specialising in sea food, but with plenty of choice too for carnivores. For a special dinner-for-two, there is a tiny private terrace with a single table.

Drinking

For an aperitif without a sea view, you could do worse than head for the botanic gardens of PALAZZO MURAT. This grand 18th century hotel’s secluded courtyard bar is a private haven away from prying eyes.

If it’s a sea view you are after with your Prosecco, BUCA DI BACCO (+39 39 089 875 699, Via Rampa Teglia 4) has been an institution for more than a hundred years, with its veranda looking out over the beach. It’s a buzzy spot, from where you can observe the port’s

comings and goings from a discreet distance. Dinner here is informal, but highly commended.

Like everywhere in this part of the world, Limoncello is ubiquitous, but for something particular to Positano, head to snack bar, L’ALTERNATIVA, by the pier. This tiny blue shack is a simple kiosk by day, but turns into a lively, no-frills bar by night, frequented by revellers of all ages. Its claim to fame is a special cocktail named after its proprietor, the L’Albertissimo, made of lemon granita mixed with peach vodka and grenadine, served in plastic cups.

Tip: If you have time, the energy and the appropriate footwear, take a hike up to Montepertuso, perched high above Positano. The views from here are even more stunning, while the terrace of a popular family restaurant,

LA TAGLIATA

(+39 089 875 872, Via Tagliata 32b, Positano) probably has one of the finest dining views in the Mediterranean.

amalfi

“The day of judgment, for the Amalfi people who will go to heaven, will be a day like any other.” Renato Fucini, 1877

The Amalfi coast is only 60 kilometres long, of which Amalfi, the town, is just a tiny part. Today it is a village with a population of 5,000 people, but in its 9th century glory days, the Duchy of Amalfi republic was Italy’s oldest maritime republic.

As a 70,000-strong nation, Amalfi served as a major commercial centre, rivalling Pisa, Genoa and Venice as a major naval trading power with the Byzantine East. It traded grain from the region, salt from Sardinia, as well as slaves and timber, in exchange for Egyptian and Syrian gold coins, with which it used to buy Byzantine silks, to be resold in the West.

The importance of that age is celebrated each June with the ‘Regatta of the Four Ancient Maritime Republics’, competing over a number

of events. Hosting the festival rotates between the four cities and returns to Amalfi in 2020. The coastal region was famous for its schools of law and mathematics, whose student, Flavio Gioia, was considered to have invented the modern compass circa 1300. His statue stands in the town.

Not much of its former naval glory is visible today, having suffered badly at the hands of an earthquake in 1343, which caused much of the town to simply crumble into the sea. Its topography is flatter than neighbouring towns and villages and you can walk the length of the town in 15 minutes.

Amalfi has been a popular holiday destination for esteemed visitors since the 19th century and it became popular in the 1920s with the British aristocracy. The only two attractions of note are its Byzantine cathedral and a small paper museum, as the town was one of the first centres of handmade paper (‘bambagina’) making in Europe, a skill Amalfitans learned from the Arabs. Amalfi is worth a stop, for a saunter along its pretty promenade, with smaller crowds of visitors than its neighbours.

ravello

Moving along the coast, Ravello, suspended 300 metres above the sea, is a green and peaceful hanging garden, whose views are probably the finest in all of Amalfi.

For this reason, Ravello is home to many grand villas, the most famous of which is Villa Rufalo, built on the ruins of the 13th century ruins of a noble palace. Visiting its gardens in 1880, Richard Wagner was inspired to complete his final opera, Parsifal, with which he had toiled for twenty years. He stayed in Ravello long enough to complete it, just three years before his death. Gore Vidal held court in his villa, ‘La Rondinaia’ (The Swallow’s Nest), which he called his ‘perch’.

The town repaid Wagner’s homage by creating the annual Ravello Music Festival, also referred to as the Wagner Festival. Staged in the grounds of

Villa Rufalo, the festival has hosted the likes of the London Symphony Orchestra, St. Petersburg Philharmonic Orchestra and conductors such as Daniel Barenboim and Zubin Mehta. The busy summer programme, from June to midSeptember, also includes other genres, having featured jazz greats such as Herbie Hancock and Wayne Shorter in recent years. Programmes are published at the end of April, so we were unable to include the 2019 lineup here; for details, visit www.ravello.com/events/ ravello-festival. Other artists who have drawn inspiration from Ravello include DH Lawrence, who wrote ‘Lady Chatterley’s Lover’ here, while Nobelwinning author, André Gide observed that “Ravello is closer to the sky than the sea.” Greta Garbo, who famously said that she wanted to be alone, was another visitor. You may not be entirely alone during your visit to Ravello, but it does draw fewer tourists than its coastal neighbours.

Dining out

For dinner with a glorious view, consider the Michelinstarred ROSSELLINIS* in Hotel Palazzo Avino (+39 089 81 81 81, Via San Giovanni del Toro 28). If you have had your fill of beautiful views, Rossellinis also has a Chef’s Table for four, next to the kitchen. For wine and cheese lovers, the Sommelier’s Table is a romantic candlelit dinner for two in the ‘Wine Library’, set in a small cave.

atrani

Atrani feels like authentic Amalfi, a fishing village with a population of under a thousand, seemingly untouched by mass tourism. The townlet is a warren of narrow, winding lanes, marked by alleyways, arches, small courtyards and steps. Its only landmark, Collegiate Santa Maria Maddalena, is a large, 13th century baroque church, standing tall above the water’s edge with fabulous views. Ornately decorated and well maintained by locals, it is worth climbing its steps for a closer look.

minori

Dating back to its earliest known settlement in 1 AD, Minori is the oldest town on the Amalfi coast.

Less picturesque than its better known neighbours, it is today a working village that has its roots in the manufacture of handmade pasta. Minori has a pleasant enough beach and attractive seafront, but it is its food heritage that is perhaps its greatest appeal.

In the 18th century, many of the flour mills and pasta factories that had set up along the Reghinna Minor river upped sticks to Gragnano, but the pasta-making tradition remained. The town’s speciality is scialatielli, which

Minori

many local restaurants serve up with enormous pride. Another dish from the region is ancient ‘ndunderi’ (pron. doon~der~ee), which are gnocchi-like dumplings originally made with spelt flour and curdled milk.

The river is the primary reason for the splendid ‘Villa Marittima Romana’ to be located here, one of the most important monuments on this coastline. Dating back some 2,000 years, the impressive villa is thought to have been the seaside residence of a member of the imperial court, choosing this spot along the Reghinna Minor to fill its swimming pool and baths. It retains a number of original frescoes and mosaics.

Minori’s cathedral, dedicated Santa Trofimena, was restored in the 19th century and has three light-filled aisles and a 17th century marble pulpit. The lower basilica houses the relics of the town’s patron saint. Pastry lovers should flock to ‘Sal de Riso’, named after the eponymous pastry chef, who is somewhat of a celebrity in Italy. His award-winning pastry workshop has won international recognition, famous for its lemon desserts, and setting new standards for desserts ranging from doughnuts to tiramisù. Should you find yourself in the area during the second week in September, the town’s ‘GustaMinori’ food festival is a good time to visit.

maiori

Two of the best beaches to be found on the Amalfi coast are in Maiori. Due to a disastrous flood in 1954, much of the historic centre was destroyed, giving the rebuilt town a more modern look than surrounding places.

As Maiori is no stranger to the package holiday industry, it is definitely worth avoiding its sandy charms in peak season. Though also for this reason, should you have bored youngsters in your party, the town is livelier and has more entertainment on offer than other Amalfi destinations. Dining out

For dining in the immediate area, head east from Maiori to the headland of Capo d’Orso, where the elegant IL FARO DI CAPO D’ORSO* (+39 089 87 70 22, Via Diego Taiani 48, Maiori) offers Michelin-starred cuisine and service, matched by views the length of the Amalfi coast, with Capri visible in the distance.

Using the best florist at our disposal we can make sure that your floral arrangements are prepared with the finest quality flowers, specifically to your design