Where streets really are paved with gold

“Omnes viae Romam ducunt”

lazio

Just 30km inland, the Eternal City is the perfect superyacht destination as part of any western Italian itinerary. Cosmopolitan, steeped in culture, a gourmet’s dream and a shopping nirvana, Rome is arguably the finest city on Earth. ‘Caput Mundi’ (Capital of the World) boasts more historical treasures and cultural riches than anywhere else on the planet.

Even if Rome’s ancient architecture or the arts don’t entice you, the birthplace of la dolce vita offers plenty for those who prefer il dolce far niente, the art of doing sweet nothing. Whether it’s shopping, strolling, eating and drinking, there is no more atmospheric place to linger than this magnificent city.

It was dubbed the ‘Eternal City’ by ancient Romans, in the firm belief that Rome would endure no matter what the future held. Today, more than two thousand years on, many of its origins remain visible, as testament to the most glorious empire ever created.

How to get there

Moor at Porto Turistico, at the mouth of the River Tiber near Fiumicino, where the marina is conveniently located only ten minutes’ drive from Rome’s main international (Leonardo da Vinci) airport, and a 35-minute drive into the city.

To avoid the traffic into the city entirely, you could, of course, take the on-board helicopter to Vatican City or the centre of Rome. Mere mortals can ride the lessglamorous metro from Ostia Antica directly into town, taking 45 minutes. Further away, along the coast north of Rome, lies Civitavecchia, the city’s original port. This ancient port was planned in 106 BC and designed by grand architect Apollodorus of Damascus, at the behest of emperor Trajan.

Civitavecchia was created as an important trading hub for the empire and while much of its historic port remains intact, today

it is mostly a stop-off point for cruise ships. The drive from here into Rome takes some 75 minutes.

Equidistant to the south lies Anzio, Caligula’s birthplace, but more famous in modern history as the site of a crucial landing by Western Allies during WWII, as depicted in the 1968 movie ‘Anzio!’, starring Robert Mitchum and Peter Falk.

Map data ©2019 Google Beach of Anzio

In Roman times, ‘Antium’ was a popular retreat away from the city, where the philosopher Cicero founded his library and where many of Rome’s elite had private coastal villas.

Emperor Nero was also born here and the town thrived after he commisioned the port and later built the grand ‘Villa di Nerone’, the imperial villa used by all subsequent emperors.

Tip: As the coastline between Anzio and Civitavecchia is the least appealing aspect of this region, guests may prefer to disembark at one port and re-embark at the other, following their visit to Rome.

ostia·antica

Often overlooked by visitors who flock to Rome by air, Ostia Antica is must-see, particularly if the yacht is moored nearby. A former bustling town with 60,000 inhabitants, Ostia was founded in 620 BC and became Rome’s primary commercial sea port and naval base in 400 BC.

Its salt beds were used in meat preservation, though after the fall of Rome, as it flooded to become swamp land, these were instrumental in preserving the town’s remains, which rival Pompeii for quality.

Many BC remnants of the city remain, with excavations ongoing and continuing to uncover fascinating detail of Roman life. Beautiful black and white mosaics are all around, including a pool floor featuring Neptune riding a chariot through the sea. Grain was Ostia’s main import and it was famous for its bread, while oils and wine passed through, stored in large buried urns that remain today. Imports would be stored here before being sent to Rome.

The small, local museum houses a collection of beautiful second- or thirdcentury Roman copies of Greek original busts and marbles, and is worth a visit, with many cupids and gods on display, as well as some interesting local citizens.

Civitavecchia

The official ‘Port of Rome’ may lack the charm and architectural remains like those found in Ostia and Anzio, though its history is no less colourful. On the face of it, Civitavecchia today is just a major terminus for cruise ships and commercial shipping, though its port was designed by Leonardo da Vinci, as documented in drawings in the Codex Atlanticus. At the entrance to the port is Fort Michelangelo (also ‘Fortress Giulia’), built on the orders of Pope Sixtus V in the 16th century, in order to fortify the home of the papal fleet. The city started life as an Etruscan settlement before emperor Trajan constructed the large port around its rocky inlets in 106 AD. Named ‘Centumcellae’, the port city thrived during the Roman empire’s heyday, before falling under the Byzantine Empire and then the papacy from 700 AD, which covered swathes of what is now Italy and a slice of France.

Civitavecchia was heavily bombed by Allied Forces in WWII, though thankfully many of its ancient monuments and churches survived intact. A stroll around the town should include Piazza Leandra and the small Church of the Star (1688), from where you can walk through a ninth century ‘archetto’, a small passage leading to the quaintlynamed ‘Church of Death’ in Piazza Aurelio Saffi.

Castello di Santa Severa

Twenty minutes by car south of Civitavecchia lies the castle of Santa Severa, dating from the 14th century. Considered to be of great historical and cultural significance, the castle was built on the site where the young Christian martyr, Severa, was killed in 298 AD in the Etruscan city of Pyrgi. She perished here with her brothers Calendino and Marco, during the reign of emperor Diocletian. Having undergone various modifications, the castle stands on the site of a 5th century church dedicated to Severa, remains of which have been unearthed only in recent years, as well as artefacts from the Bronze Age. It was a refuge for Roman noblemen and a number of popes before Sixtus IV donated it to the Order of the Holy Spirit in 1482.

Having fallen into decay over hundreds of years and even served a stint as a strategic military holdup for the German army in 1943, the castle has now been revamped by the local authority into a thriving cultural centre.

A visit to the Maritime and Ancient Navigation Museum is recommended, where you will see a slice of the Etruscan history of Pyrgi. The museum, one of five here, also features the remains of Etruscan and Roman ships discovered not far from the coast.

Tarquinia

Another site of great significance, 20 minutes north of Civitavecchia, is Tarquinia, until 1922 known as Corneto. The cradle of Etruscan civilisation, Tarquinia is a lovely medieval town full of fascinating architecture and historical features. However, the greatest attraction here is the Necropolis of Monterozzi.

This UNESCO World Heritage site contains more than two hundred tombs, with well-preserved or restored frescoes providing an important insight into Etruscan life. The paintings depict colourful scenes of funeral banquets, dancers, musicians and jugglers, dating back to the 7th century BC.

Also worth a stop is the National Etruscan Museum of Tarquinia, located inside Palazzo Vitelleschi. Built by Cardinal Giovanni Vitelleschi in 1436, the palazzo itself is a typical example of Renaissance architecture and now houses the largest collection of Estruscan remains, recovered in the region.

A12th century French proverb first mused that Rome wasn’t built in a day, though it is possible to breeze through its most famous landmarks in one day, if you really must. However, Rome is worth taking your time over, for two or even three days (in which case, see our guide to the best hotels).

The dome of Saint Peters Basilica seen through the famous keyhole at the the gate of the Priory of the Knights of Malta.

vatican·city

If you haven’t visited before, be warned that the Vatican complex is huge and in order to ensure you see the best artworks and features, it’s advisable to book an early-access tour with an art history expert. These tours start an hour before opening to the general public, at 08:00hrs.

Highlights include Michelangelo’s

Sistine Chapel

ceiling masterpiece, commissioned by Pope Julius II, completed over four years and unveiled to the public in 1512. The museums are packed with world-famous works, though the Raphael Rooms and the 1932 Bramante-inspired spiral staircase are particularly noteworthy, with the latter located inside the gift shop.

The original double helix staircase, by Donato Bramante in 1505, is located in the Pio-Clementine Museum and is open only to guided tours. It was designed as a gently graded ramp to enable Pope Julius II to go up by horse-drawn carriage to his private apartments.

Another must is a visit to St Peter’s Basilica (closed Wednesdays). The 551step climb to the top of the dome, standing at 136

metres tall, is an arduous trek up a narrow, spiral staircase, but the view is worth it.

Laid out in front of you is St Peter’s Square, where you may catch a glimpse of the pope for his General Audience on Wednesdays (free tickets required) or on Sundays, at noon (no ticket required). For details about tickets and scheduled appearances, check the website: www.papalaudience.org

Enter via Città del Vaticano, in Viale Vaticano, at the top of the map.

Tip: Don’t even think of visiting attractions such as the Colosseum, Pantheon and Vatican Museums without prior reservations. Have your butler or yacht agent arrange frictionless entry in advance.

It is closed on Wednesdays.

To avoid Rome’s extreme heat and the hordes, steer clear of the peak summer months. Setting off from the Vatican towards the city centre across the river Tiber to the east, you could stop by Castel Sant’Angelo.

Originally commissioned by emperor Hadrian as a mausoleum, it has been used as a papal fortress and a prison, but is now a museum.

The adjacent Ponte Sant’ Angelo is one of the most beautiful bridges in Rome, which was also the scene of Audrey Hepburn’s famous guitarsmashing scene in ‘Roman Holiday’.

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Spanish Steps

Spring is the best time to see the world-famous ’Spanish Steps’, named after the nearby Spanish Embassy to the Holy See, lined with blooming azaleas.

Climbing up to the Trinità dei Monti church at the top gives a lovely view of Piazza di Spagna beneath, featuring the ‘Fontana della Barcaccia’, one of several striking Roman works by sculptors Pietro Bernini and his son, Gian Lorenzo. One of many papal commissions, the fountain is shaped like a boat to commemorate a flooding in 1598, when the Tiber broke its banks and swept a boat to this spot.

From the top of the staircase, if you turn left up the hill, you will arrive at Villa Medici. Once home to the Tuscan grand duke, Ferdinando de’ Medici, Napoleon acquired it in 1801 for the French Academy, whose home it remains to this day.

Its outbuildings are now made available to French artists and scholars, though its most famous resident once was the physicist and astronomer, Galileo, held here between 1630 and 1633 during his trial for having ‘heretic thoughts’. In taking this walk, you will be

retracing the steps of the young English poet, John Keats, who had taken up residency in the house immediately to the right of the Spanish Steps, at Piazza di Spagna 26. Before succumbing to tuberculosis in 1821, Keats lived in what is now Keats-Shelley Memorial House, taking regular walks along here with his artist friend, Joseph Severn, often accompanied by Pauline Borghese, Napoleon’s sister.

The small museum is an essential stop for lovers of second generation English Romantic poetry, having been home not only to Keats, but to PB Shelley, Mary Shelley and Lord Byron, among others. Aside from beautifully-maintained rooms and artefacts, its library of Romantic literature numbers more than 8,000 volumes.

Fashionistas, meanwhile, may struggle to focus on Rome’s cultural assets at this point, as the Spanish Steps lead directly onto Via Condotti, the city’s top luxury shopping avenue.

The biggest names in couture are here, including Gucci, Prada, Hermes, Versace, Fendi, Bulgari, Dolce & Gabbana and many others. (See ‘Shopping’ for more details).

Trevi fountain is best enjoyed basking in the afternoon light, or lit up after dark. Fontana di Trevi

Just a short walk from the Spanish Steps is the Trevi Fountain, one of the world’s most famous water works, located on the spot where three roads meet and the end point of the underground Acqua Vergine Antica aqueduct.

The duct was built in 19 BC by Caligula’s maternal grandfather, Agrippa, to feed water to his public baths at the Pantheon from a spring 20 km away. It was restored in 1570 and still feeds the fountains of Piazza Farnese, Piazza di Spagna, and Piazza Navona.

Salvi’s Baroque masterpiece was reopened in 2015 after a €2.2 million refurbishment, paid for by fashion house, Fendi. Initially funded by a papal state lottery and finally completed in 1760, the fountain features the Titan god, Oceanus

—not Neptune, as many guides erroneously claim— accompanied by sea horses and Tritons, which are half men, half mermen.

Trevi can get extremely crowded, as throwing coins over the shoulder into the water is a must for any visitor to Rome. Sailors started the tradition, believing that a coin tossed into Trevi ensured a safe return from their travels. Today, the superstitious throw in two coins for love, three for marriage; little wonder, then, that the fountain accumulates some €3,000 per day, which is collected and given to charity daily.

Tip: Leave the stilettos on board to avoid becoming too closely acquainted with Rome’s cobblestone streets. Wear your most comfortable walking shoes.

Noon on a sunny day is the best time to admire the Pantheon’s extraordinary interior.

Taking its name from the Greek words, ‘pan’ (all) and ‘theos’ (gods), the Pantheon was constructed some 2,000 years ago. The commonly held belief, from 1892 until 2007, was that this unique construction had been a monument to the gods, created by Agrippa, whose name adorns the façade. However, using the latest dating technology, scholars now suggest this long-held theory to be wide of the mark, asserting that the original building was conceived by Hadrian and, after twice being destroyed by fire, Trajan replaced it with the enlarged monument standing today.

The Pantheon is considered one of the eight ancient wonders of the world. Michelangelo famously observed that it appeared more the

work of angels than man. Its 28 coffers (sunken panels) below its dome were considered to signify a ‘perfect number’ with mystical meaning connected to the cosmos, though it may have been merely intended as a tribute to Trajan’s forefathers.

Its only source of internal light is the oculus, a six-metre open window at the zenith, allowing the sun to beam down onto a sundial, with any incoming rainwater designed to drain away from its curved marble floor.

Whatever the truth of its origins and purpose, the Pantheon is an architectural masterpiece, built onto a concrete base in incrementally lighter materials, designed to withstand millennia. To ensure that you can withstand an entire day of sightseeing, the very best coffee in Rome is available from two rival coffee shops, each a stone’s throw away;

Sant’Eustachio Il Caffè

to the south-west and Tazza d’Oro to the northeast of the piazza.

If it’s refreshment you need in the shape of a gelato, head for Giolitti, 5 mins walk due north, in Via degli Uffici del Vicario.

Piazza Navona

Built on the site where chariot races were once held, Piazza Navona is a grand open space paved over in the 15th century, featuring the Fountain of the Four Rivers in the centre, designed in 1651 by Bernini Jr.

Other features in the piazza are the Fountain of Neptune, as well as the Obelisk of Domitian, today surrounded by bars, cafés, restaurants and tourist shops dotted around what is a popular gathering place. An imposing building overlooking the square is the 17thcentury Baroque church of Sant’Agnese, while art lovers should enter Chiesa di San Luigi dei Francesi.

Its Contarelli Chapel has three 1602 Caravaggio paintings on display, collectively known as the St Matthew Cycle; Vocazione di San Matteo, Martirio di San Matteo and San Matteo e l’angelo.

Largo di Torre Argentina

Often cited as the place where Julius Caesar was stabbed to death, Largo Argentina has some of the oldest temple remains in Rome, dating from between the second and fourth centuries BC. Today, the site is a busy transport hub, surrounding what is now a cat sanctuary.

The name ‘Argentina’ has no bearing on the Latin American country, but is a derivation of the Latin name for what is today Strasbourg, the hometown of a papal chronicler, Johannes Burckardt, nicknamed ‘Argentarius’. Burckardt’s 15th century palace occupied a large site in the area.

The actual site of Caesar’s demise is a 5-minute walk from here, where the ruler was ambushed and assassinated in 44 BC on the Ides of March (15th in the modern calendar) on the steps of the Theatre of Pompeii.

Piazza Venezia & Capitoline Hill

Immortalised for its chaotic traffic in a 1960s comedy about a hyperactive traffic cop, Piazza Venezia lies right in the heart of Rome, where four major roads meet.

However, its greatest claim to fame is the grand Il Vittoriano monument, also known as the ‘Altar of the Fatherland’, or, less flatteringly, the ‘Wedding Cake’, built to celebrate Italian unification around the turn of the last century. At its foot is the ‘Tomb of the Unknown Soldier’. Looking across the piazza from the ‘Wedding Cake’, to the left lies San Marco Church, founded in 1336 by Pope Marco, rebuilt in 1833. Next to the church sits Palazzo Venezia, once a residential papal palace for Pope Paul II, from where Mussolini would later deliver his rabble-rousing speeches.

Opposite is Palazzo Bonaparte, which was the home of Napoleon’s mother, Letizia Ramolino, until her death in 1818, and is now occupied by an insurance company.

Nearby, a landmark worth a closer look is Trajan’s Column, to the right (south-east) of the square. The monument was erected in 110 AD by the Roman emperor Trajan, with the ruler’s tomb located in the base. Surrounded by the remnants of Trajan’s Forum, the 38-metre high marble column itself recounts tales of victory over the Barbarians —anyone not Roman or Greek, in other words— in 155 scenes intricately chiselled in a spiral all the way down the structure.

Piazza deL Campidoglio

Walk up Capitoline Hill, directly behind the Il Vittoriano monument, for the best view of the Roman Forum (as seen in the photo below). The Temples of Jupiter and Juno once stood here, in Piazza del Campidoglio, designed by Michelangelo.

The beautiful square itself is home to the Capitoline Museum, the world’s first public museum. Its three separate buildings house hundreds of sculptures, including a bust of emperor Caligula, as well as paintings by Caravaggio and Battista. However, its most famous asset is the original statue of the Capitoline Wolf. A second copy is located on top of a column by the nearby Palazzo Senatorio and there are copies of this iconic work to be found in many countries around the world. The 16th century statue became the symbol of Rome when the twin halfgod founders of the City, Romulus and Remus, were added to it, depicted as babies suckling from the she-wolf.

Take the glass, panoramic elevator to the roof of Il Vittoriano for a phenomenal view of the Colosseum, the Roman Forum and the surrounding city. Roman Forum

Making your way from Piazza Venezia, or from Piazza del Campidoglio, towards Rome’s most famous landmark, the Colosseum, walk along Via dei Fori Imperiali for a good view of the Roman Forum. The site originated in 500 BC, though over the centuries it was extended by successive rulers looking to outdo their forebears.

A collection of ruins remains of what was once the beating heart of Rome’s glorious empire, including Basilica Ulpia, the Forums of Julius Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Vespasian, the stock exchange, the Temple of Venus and Roma, Arch of Septimius Severus, the Arch of Titus and the House of the Vestal Virgins.

The great and the good of Rome would tread its cobblestoned corridors of power, being the centre for politics, trade and religion.

Fun fact; the word ‘arena’ is Latin for sand, which was spread on the theatre’s wooden floor to keep gladiators from slipping and to soak up spilt blood. Nice.

Tip: Security at the Colosseum is tight and any bags larger than an average handbag are banned, with nowhere to check them, so keep belongings to a minimum. Colosseum

Almost 2,000 years old, the Colosseum’s Flavian amphitheatre is where gladiators fought with lions and other wild animals, or with each other, for the amusement of a baying crowd.

Built on swamp land over eight years, opened in 80 AD, the Colosseum was a feat of engineering, clad in limestone and covered by a velarium —a sophisticated canopy system of ropes, winches and awnings— to keep out the daytime heat. Tiered seating set above a subterranean complex of animal cages and stage sets provided seating for 60,000 Romans to be entertained. The arena’s opening 100 days and nights of games saw the slaughter of an estimated 5,000 animals, though emperor Trajan later surpassed this with an extravaganza that lasted four months and killed 10,000 animals, plus 9,000 gladiators.

The Colosseum is Italy’s top tourist attraction, so don’t think of going without a prior reservation. A pre-booked private guided tour is strongly recommended. Better still, take the tour at night.

rest·of·rome

Having listed Rome’s ‘Greatest Hits’ in a oneday walking itinerary, doesn’t mean that any of the city’s remaining highlights are any less visit-worthy. For a second and third day, there remain plenty of interesting ancient attractions to enjoy. Most are still in walking distance of each other in the centre, though some are a taxi ride to the outskirts of the city.

di Nerone’ statue of Nero that stood next to it. Circus Maximus dwarfed the Colosseum and, at 600 metres long with 250,000 seating capacity, was the largest Roman hippodrome ever built.

The Circus had its origins in the sixth century BC and was redesigned, enlarged and rebuilt over the ensuing centuries by

Circus Maximus

Someday soon, augmented reality goggles may bring this site to life, though for now, visitors need to use their imagination to envisage this grassy banked expanse as the gigantic stadium it once was. The nearby Colosseum wasn’t so named because it was colossal; it was named after the huge ‘Colosso

subsequent emperors. The venue was conceived by Romulus as a stadium for chariot races, though before the erection of the Colosseum, it was also used for gladiatorial contests and processions.

Made for entertainment, the earliest Romans also used their stadia to abduct unmarried women, in order to take them for their wives, while their male companions were engrossed in the bloody spectacle. Unlike other venues, including the Colosseum, men and women were able to sit together here. panem et circenses

By the time of Augustus, 17 days of racing were held each year, with ten or twelve races scheduled per day. Caligula, never one to do things by half, doubled the number of races during his reign, also increasing the number of festive days of races in honour of his mother and one of his sisters.

In contrast with enslaved gladiators whose destiny was almost certainly a public death, for the delectation of Rome’s finest, the most successful free charioteers were able to win vast fortunes. Bags of gold and thousands of sesterces (silver or brass coins) were won each race, either as a driver for a team or as freelancers.

Diocles, a charioteer from what is now Lamego, Portugal, was the greatest champion of all. Legend has it that he took part in his first professional race at 18 and retired at 42, in 146 AD, having won or come second in almost 3,000 out of 4,257 events. His total gold and prize money haul would in today’s money be worth in the region of some $15 billion, making him easily the highest paid sports star in ancient history and unsurpassed since.

Diocles was preceded by another chariot superstar, Scorpus, an enslaved rider with 2,000 victories, riding for Rome’s ‘Green Faction’. He too amassed great wealth for his masters and himself, with the crowd throwing

him money in their appreciation. Even though Scorpus eventually became a ‘libertus’ and bought his own freedom, he was unfortunate enough to die at the Circus at only 26. However, in one ‘naufragia’ —or ‘shipwreck’, as the Romans called these crashes— the adulated Scorpus was unable to prevent being trampled to death.

Riders used to wrap reins around themselves in order to use their bodyweight for leverage in controlling the horses, carrying knives to cut themselves loose in case of an accident.

“Oh! Sad misfortune! That you, Scorpus, should be cut off in the flower of your youth, and be called so prematurely to harness the dusky steeds of Pluto. The chariot-race was always shortened by your rapid driving; but O why should your own race have been so speedily run?”

“O Rome, I am Scorpus, the glory of your noisy circus, the object of your applause, your short-lived favourite. The envious Lachesis, when she cut me off in my twenty-seventh year, accounted me, in judging by the number of my victories, to be an old man.”

Martial, Epigrams, 98 AD Mouth of Truth

Bocca della Verità, or ‘Mouth of Truth’, is more a curio than an artefact of genuine cultural significance.

This famous marble carving of a bearded face is a staple on the Roman visitor circuit, which, myth has it, used to bite off the hand of those who failed to tell the truth.

There is no definitive provenance, though the widely accepted theory is that the mask, a depiction of Oceanus, may have been part of a fountain or a drain cover in the nearby Temple of Hercules Victor.

It was placed in the portico of Santa Maria in Cosmedin Church in 1632.

While most visitors don’t make it beyond the church’s biggest draw outside, the original 6th century building was positioned on the site of the former ‘statio annonae’, once Rome’s food-distribution centre.

The charming, dim interior boasts a number of interesting frescoes and mosaics, but its most infamous asset is the fractured skull of a 3rd century bishop of Terni, better known as St. Valentine, patron saint of lovers. The bishop was martyred and buried on February 14th in 278 AD, having been clubbed to death on the orders of Claudius II, for defying a ban on marriages.

For reasons best known to pope Gregory XVI and Irish preacher, Father John Spratt, the rest of St Valentine’s remains were gifted to Dublin in 1836, where they are enshrined in a casket in the Carmelite Whitefriar Street Church.

Castel Sant’Angelo

Along the main route between Vatican City and Rome’s centre lies this distinctive castle on the west bank of the Tiber.

The fortified structure was commissioned in 134 AD by emperor Hadrian as a mausoleum for him and his family, was converted into a papal fortress in the 6th century and has functioned as a prison. Its walls are said to have seen more than 1800 An imposing statue of the angel stands on the roof, which today houses a café and offers magnificent views of the city.

Highlights of the museum are the ‘Passetto’, Renaissance interiors and Raphaelite frescoes, the prisons and the beautiful papal baths of Leo X and Clemente VII, as well as a large collection of paintings, sculpture, military memorabilia and medieval firearms.

years of blood, wars and death, giving it a very colourful history. As a militarised fort, it was connected in 1277 to the Holy See in the Vatican via an 800-metre long elevated corridor, the ‘Passetto di Borgo’, which remains intact.

The castle got its name from a vision pope Gregory the Great had of Saint Michael the Archangel during the plague in 590.

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Appian Way

For a long walk or cycle out of town, to the south of Rome lies the ancient Appian Way, the oldest Roman road in existence. Construction started in 312 BC, eventually stretching almost 500 km to Brindisi on the Adriatic coast. The road was named after Rome’s consul, Appius Claudius Caecus, who oversaw the laying of the first 90 km. Designed to connect the city to key military and commercial settlements to the south, the road dubbed ‘Regina Viarum’ (Queen of Roads) was a desirable avenue along which prominent Romans built their villas. The first part of the road e-lined with many monuments to admire, making for a beautiful, peaceful retreat from Rome’s frenetic centre. However, the stillness belies a bloody past, as its catacombs beneath

Tours around Rome by golf cart are available and can include Appian Way

are the final resting place for generations of popes, soldiers and slaves. In 71 BC Spartacus was crucified here and his slave army of 6000 soldiers killed and interred.

One of the best-preserved structures is the Tomb of Caecilia Metella, at the 5 km mark, who was the daughter of Rome’s wealthiest consul and the wife of one of Caesar’s top generals.

Passing through Porta San Sebastiano, you will soon arrive at the 17th century small church Domine Quo Vadis, built on the site of ancient temples, where the Apostle Peter supposedly lived. It is here that Peter purportedly had a vision of Christ as he fled Nero’s troops in 64 AD. “Quo vadis, Domine?” (Where are you going, Lord?) Peter had asked Jesus. Jesus responded that he was heading to Rome to be crucified again and a stone inside the church is claimed to bear Christ’s footprints. Another 2 km along the road lies Circus Maxentius, one of the best-preserved chariot racing stadia.

Baths of Caracalla

Located near the start of the Appian Way are the impressive ruins of ‘Terme di Caracalla’, the remains of a spectacular thermal baths complex completed in 216 AD under emperor Caracalla.

Visiting communal baths was a favourite Roman pastime, to socialise, maintain their hygiene and exercise in gyms, with Caracalla hosting some 8,000 bathers daily.

The 11-hectare complex also contained libraries, gardens, shops and temples to worship the god, Mithras.

The baths had a sophisticated system of ducts supplying water heated by wood-fired ovens, as well as heating the ornately marbled walls and floors. Its 10 km plumbing network was maintained by hundreds of slaves, of course. Its patrons meanwhile would luxuriate through a sequence of rooms after entering via the apodyterium (dressing room); first the frigidarium (cold room) with its tank of cold water, the tepidarium (warm room), and finally the caldarium (hot room). Next in the sequence they returned to the tepidarium for a massage and scrub. Finally, they would unwind in the laconium (a dry resting room).

The complex closed in 537 after barbarian Visigoths destroyed the city’s aqueducts, before an earthquake destroyed much of the derelict structure in 847 AD.

Introduced in 2018, Caracalla offers virtual reality goggles, enabling visitors to see the past splendour of each of its spaces

Teatro Marcello Roman Ghetto

Only a stone’s throw from the Colosseum, this is a smaller, open air theatre, planned by Julius Caesar, though its construction began only after the emperor’s demise on the Ides of March in 44 BC. Completed in 12 BC, the theatre was inaugurated and named after the favourite nephew of the incumbent emperor, Augustus.

An open air theatre for music and dance performances, Theatrum Marcelli had a capacity of 20,000 spectators, constructed in similar style and materials as its much more famous neighbour. A new architectural element was the first use in Rome of fired brick, which had been a Greek innovation.

In the 16th century, a ‘palazzo’ was added on top of the concrete structure, restored in the 1930s, containing apartments that remain occupied today, while the theatre continues to function as a summer venue for evening performances. Between Campo de’ Fiori and Piazza Venezia lies one of the oldest Jewish quarters in Europe. Rome’s first Jewish settlers were traders, followed by enslaved Jews brought to the city after Roman conquests in Judea in 63 BC and Jerusalem in 68 AD. However, the Ghetto itself stems from a period of official papal intolerance, declared in 1555.

Pope Paul IV —a sadistic, combative fellow, by all accounts— issued his bull “cum nimis absurdum”,

subjecting Jews to various restrictions and humiliations. Having enjoyed the liberty of living where and how they pleased, Paul IV mandated that Jews would now only be allowed to live in a squalid, walled quarter of the city that was prone to flooding. The quarter’s only two entry points would be locked at night.

Before Jews could move into the Ghetto, they were required to go through an annual ritual, involving a ‘carnival of humiliation’ at the start of Lent. The main event was a sequence of races, with contestants required to run naked through the streets, with only a loin cloth for modesty. To add to spectators’ entertainment, they were encouraged to throw mud and fruit at the runners, who would often stop to vomit after being required to gorge themselves pre-race. Only upon conclusion of the carnival and after payment of a tax, would new arrivals be permitted to take up residence. Commercial activity was prohibited, with the exception of trading in textiles —unless they were doctors, in which case they were still forbidden from treating Christians— and its residents were forced to wear identifying yellow badges or head cover. They were not permitted to own property and only one synagogue would be left standing, for prayer.

By the time the Ghetto was officially abolished and the walls demolished in 1882, its original two gates had increased to eight. Until then, the only way to add accommodation had been to build higher, making it feel taller and more claustrophobic than surrounding neighbourhoods.

Today’s Ghetto

The neighbourhood feels distinct from the rest of the city because of its concentration of Jewish restaurants, shops, and

bakeries, but it is now one of the most desirable areas of Rome.

Enter the area on Via Monattanara, around the corner from Teatro Marcello, and walk straight until you reach the enchanting turtle fountain in Piazza Mattei. From here, take a left onto Via di S. Amrogio, where you will notice around a dozen gilded cobblestones in the pavement, commemorating residents who perished at Auschwitz during the Holocaust. In a poignant installation in 1992, by Berlin artist Gunter Demnig, some 200 of these are dotted around Rome, not exclusively in the Ghetto.

Continue to the end and turn left, towards Portico d’Ottavia, where many studios, boutiques and kosher eateries create a lively atmosphere. The typical delicacy to try is deep-fried artichoke and fried stuffed zucchini flowers, which you’ll get from famous local restaurants, Nonna Betta and Ristorante Piperno. Don’t miss the distinctive nearby synagogue, Tempio Maggiore, before moving on.

Image courtesy of Sara Ceresa ©

Isola Tiberina

Making your way from the Jewish Ghetto to Trastevere is an opportunity to take in the small Tiber Island, in the middle of the river, connected by two bridges. Pass the arts and crafts sellers as you cross the water and pause halfway

to take in the tranquility of this picturesque spot. Only 269 metres long and 67 metres across at its widest point, the island itself is fairly unremarkable, but in the summer the area is alive with bankside stalls and places to eat and drink.

Legend has it that islet was formed from a mound of grain, formed unintentionally from excess crops dumped into the river on the orders of the last king of Rome, the luxuriously named Lucius Tarquinius Superbus, in 509 BC. The islet is home to a functioning 16th century hospital, founded on the site where a temple had once stood, to honour the god Aesculapius, erected two years after an outbreak of the plague in the city. Dignitaries had been despatched to Epidaurus in Greece, a medicinal centre, in order to bring back a statue of Aesculapius to aid the sick. By boat, they returned in 292 BC, not with a statue but with live serpent, considered to have divine healing powers. The snake found its way onto the island, with the spot becoming a shrine to healing and medicine.

Shrines to other gods were subsequently built here, though aside from the hospital and a basilica, and some small squares, there doesn’t remain anything remarkable to see. It’s a pleasant place for a stroll, flanked by flowing water, and a drink or bite to eat.

Trastevere

If it’s atmosphere you seek, Trastevere, a former working class district on the western side of the river, has it in spades. This colourful neighbourhood is home to pretty, faded façades, narrow cobbled streets and delightful squares and parks to wander around. Trastevere is sometimes likened to New York’s Greenwich Village, or the bohemian Left Bank in Paris; best enjoyed at a terrace table with a glass of something local, watching the world go by.

Much of the area’s attraction lies in its bars, cafés, trattorias and boutiques, but there are some worthwhile cultural sights to be enjoyed too. The two largest and lively piazzas are also home to two stunning churches, containing several masterpieces each. In a corner on the western side of Piazza di Santa Maria stands the unassuming 12th

century Basilica di Santa Maria, with a glittering, gilt mosaicked interior by Pietro Cavallini. In Piazza di Santa Cecilia, the

Basilica di Santa Cecilia

was built on the site where the eponymous saint’s house once stood. In 230 AD she was condemned to torture and death by the ruling bishop for burying Christians, which was forbidden. Tip: The outside gates to Basilica di Santa Cecilia are sometimes locked, but someone should eventually let you in. Don’t miss the crypt below the church, containing several Cavallini 13th century frescoes, which nuns will show you for a small fee if you ring the bell.

Legend has it that she survived being burned before being finally decapitated at the third attempt, after which she took three days to die. Santa Cecilia is the patron saint of musicians, having sung to the Lord in heart while reluctantly being married off by her father.

Near the botanical gardens on the banks of the river stands Villa Farnesina, an opulent Renaissance villa by Baldassarre Peruzzi, commissioned in the 1500s as a private residence. The interior is decorated with frescoes by Raphael Sanzio and a host of other Italian masters. En route to the botanical gardens, stop by Palazzo Corsini, a baroque palace with a stunning collection of 16th and 17th century Renaissance works, including pieces by Titian and Caravaggio.

Wander through the botanical gardens up the hill, lined with monuments commemorating Giuseppe Garibaldi, the 19th century French-born Italian guerrilla leader, and his ramshackle army, in their battle with French troops on this spot in 1849.

The republican General was instrumental in Italian unification and is honoured with a large statue at the top of Rome’s eighth hill, in Passeggiata del Gianicolo. It’s quite a climb to the summit, but your reward is the finest panoramic view of the city and is worth the trek. Along the way, Fontana dell’Acqua Paola merits a stop. Not as ornate as Trevi fountain, this monument was commissioned by Pope Paul V and completed in 1612, marking the end of the Acqua Paola aqueduct restoration project.

Paid for by the pontiff via a special tax on wine, in order to bring fresh water from Lake Bracciano to residents on the hill, one could say that Paul V turned wine into water, which didn’t make him too popular at the time.

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where·to·stay

“Hotels? In a superyacht travel guide?”

we hear you ask. Well, if you are planning on spending a couple of days or more in Rome and don’t fancy the schlep to and from the boat, you’ll want somewhere to stay. There are many excellent hotels to choose from, so here are just some of the very best.

JK PLACE ROMA Via di Monte d’Oro 30 +39 06 982 634

Centrally located, just a short stroll from the Spanish Steps. A stylish 30-room boutique townhouse hotel. Understated Dolce Vita style, cool design and the finest quality materials throughout the salons, restaurant and bedrooms are complemented by the highest standards of service.

THE ST REGIS ROME Via Vittorio Emanuele Orlando 3 / +39 06 47091

First opened in 1894 by César Ritz, this glorious Belle Époque building has just completed a €40-million restoration, designed by world-famous interior designer, Pierre-Yves Rochon. The result is a stunning, contemporary grand hotel with 23 suites and 138 guest rooms.

HOTEL EDEN Via Ludovisi 49 +39 06 478 121

Reopened after a complete renovation in 2017, under the umbrella of The Dorchester Collection, Hotel Eden is a Roman classic. Eden’s location adjacent to Villa Borghese park is superb and is best appreciated from the rooftop lounge.

HOTEL DE RUSSIE Via del Babuino 9 +39 06 32 888 830

For understated chic, head for Rocco Forte’s Hotel de Russie on the Piazza del Popolo. This classic modern hotel is home to the infamous Stravinskij Bar, which is the cocktail bar of choice for Rome’s beautiful people. Dubbed “paradise on earth” by Jean Cocteau in 1917, its tiered ‘Secret Garden’ houses the Jardin de Russie restaurant.

PORTRAIT ROMA Via Bocca di Leone 23 +39 06 693 80 742

If designer shopping is your thing, this discreet hideaway in the heart of Rome’s exclusive shopping area may be just the ticket. As part of the Lungarno Collection, a Ferragamo familyowned chain of hotels and restaurants, Portrait Roma is a townhouse comprising just 14 suites and studios. Guests have access to a ‘Lifestyle Team Member’, who will satisfy your every whim or desire.

HASSLER ROMA Piazza Trinità dei Monti 6 +39 06 699 340

The Hassler is a favoured grande dame on Rome’s deluxe hotel scene, located near the top of the Spanish Steps. Mixing styles from Belle Époque to outré Art Deco, its 91 rooms and suites vary greatly in decor, though the top floors all have wonderful views of the city. Personality and gracious service. The Michelin-starred restaurant, Imagò, has been wowing diners for the past decade.

shopping

For the cleric or regular member of your family, papal socks are a popular gift to bring back from Rome. Outfitters to the Vatican, Gammarelli (Via di S. Chiara 34), stock all the ecclesiastical attire you might dream of; from bishop’s rings to red velvet capes and mitres, this tailor has it all. Small wonder, then, that Pope Francis was named “Best Dressed Man of 2013” by Esquire magazine.

Another store unique to Rome is Saddler’s Union (Via Margutta 11), a purveyor of the highest quality, understated, leather bags, goods and accessories that first opened its doors in 1957. Its famous clientele once included Audrey Hepburn, Gianni Agnelli, Jack Lemmon and Jacqueline Onassis and it continues to create pieces to order for the cognoscenti.

The biggest labels in couture and luxury are to be found in the ‘Tridente’ district, where fashionistas should head for serious retail therapy. Start at Via Condotti, where there is the highest concentration of big name boutiques and flagship stores, while smaller shops are dotted around Via Borgognona, Via della Vite, Via delle Carrozze, via Frattina, Via Vittoria and Via del Babuino, famous for its antique dealers.

dining·out

Sometimes dubbed, ‘the city of eternal heartburn’, Rome is of course one of the world’s great food capitals. Michelin lists one 3-star, one 2-star and as many as seventeen 1-star restaurants, with a further 44 eateries highly rated by the guide.

LA PERGOLA*** (Mediterranean)

Via Cadolo 101 / +39 06 35092152 romhi.lapergolareservations@waldorfastoria.com www.romecavalieri.com

IL PAGLIACCIO** (Creative)

Via dei Banchi Vecchi 129 / +39 06 68809595 info@ristoranteilpagliaccio.com www.ristoranteilpagliaccio.com

AROMA* (Mediterranean)

Via Labicana 125 / +39 06 97615109 booking@aromarestaurant.it www.aromarestaurant.it

MARCO MARTINI RESTAURANT*

(Creative) Viale Aventino 121 / +39 06 45597350 info@marcomartinichef.com www.marcomartinichef.com

MOMA* (Creative)

Via San Basilio 42 / +39 06 42011798 info@ristorantemoma.it / www.ristorantemoma.it

La Terrazza* (Modern)

Via Ludovisi 49 / +39 06 47812752 terrazza.her@dorchestercollection.com dorchestercollection.com

IMÀGO* (Modern)

Piazza Trinità dei Monti 6 / +39 06 69934726 imago@hotelhassler.it / www.imagorestaurant.com

ENOTECA AL PARLAMENTO ACHILLI*

(Creative) Via dei Prefetti 15 / +39 06 86761422 ristorante@enotecalparlamento.com www.enotecalparlamento.com

GLASS HOSTARIA* (Creative)

Vicolo del Cinque 58 / +39 06 58335903 infoglass@libero.it / www.glasshostaria.it

IL CONVIVIO-TROIANI* (Modern)

Vicolo dei Soldati 31 / +39 06 6869432 info@ilconviviotroiani.com www.ilconviviotroiani.com

PIPERO* (Creative)

Corso Vittorio Emanuele 246 / +39 06 68139022 info@piperoroma.it / www.piperoroma.com

PER ME GIULIO TERRINONI* (Creative)

Vicolo del Malpasso 9 / +39 06 6877365 perme@giulioterrinoni.it www.giulioterrinoni.it

ACQUOLINA* (Seafood)

Via del Vantaggio 14 / +39 06 3200655 info@acquolinaristorante.it www.acquolinaristorante.it

ALL’ORO* (Creative)

Via Giuseppe Pisanelli 25 / +39 06 97996907 booking@ristorantealloro.it www.ristorantealloro.it

ASSAJE* (Modern)

Via Ulisse Aldrovandi 15 / +39 06 3223993 assaje@aldrovandi.com / www.aldrovandi.com

ENOTECA LA TORRE* (Modern)

Lungotevere delle Armi 22 / +39 06 45668304 enotecalatorre@villalaetitia.com www.enotecalatorreroma.com

METAMORFOSI* (Creative)

Via Giovanni Antonelli 30 / +39 06 8076839 info@metamorfosiroma.it www.metamorfosiroma.it

TORDOMATTO* (Modern)

Via Pietro Giannone 24 / +39 06 69352895 info@tordomattoroma.com www.tordomattoroma.com

BISTROT 64* (Mediterranean)

Via Guglielmo Calderini 64 / +39 06 3235531 info@bistrot64.it / www.bistrot64.it If you love black truffles, you can indulge your passion at RISTORANTE LIFE, with its gastronomic ‘Menu Tartufo Nero’

Via della Vite 28 / +39 06 69380948 info@ristorantelife.it / www.ristorantelife.it

Pizza

When in Rome and it’s pizza you’re after, these are among the best…

For an on-the-go quick bite, BONCI PIZZARIUM (Via della Meloria 43) is first among equals, for taglio slices like nowhere else. For an ‘old school’ basic Roman experience straight from the 50s, the harshly-lit PIZZERIA AI MARMI (Viale di Trastevere 53) is unique. Locally, it’s nicknamed ‘the Morgue’ owing to its marble interior. PIZZERIA DA REMO (Piazza di Santa Maria Liberatrice 44) offers somewhat more comfort, but for comfort and creativity at a higher level, IN FUCINA (Via Giuseppe Lunati 27) is the place. Vegetarian/Vegan

Of the Michelin-starred restaurants, IL PAGLIACCIO is especially commended for its vegetarian options. Established 30 years ago, IL MARGUTTA (Via Margutta, 118) is the oldest vegetarianonly restaurant in Italy. Located right by Termini station is RIFUGIO ROMANO (Via Volturno, 39/41), a 30-seater bistro that is not exclusively vegan/vegetarian, but boasts an impressively large selection of vegan dishes, earning rave reviews. A fine pizzeria noted for its vegan options is EMMA (Via del Monte della Farina, 28), while both branches of GINGER also cater to a high standard for vegans and omnivores alike (Via Borgognona 43 and Piazza Sant’Eustachio 54). As the name would suggest, SOLO CRUDO PRATI (Viale Federico Cesi 22) is an inventive raw food restaurant that comes highly recommended. MATER TERRACE (Largo Febo 2) offers the most picturesque views and Sicilyinspired vegan and organic dishes, on the 5th floor of the ‘bio’ Hotel Raphael by Piazza Navona.

drinking

Romans have been drinking wine for over two thousand years, so the grape still rules in this town. But the high-end cocktail scene is up and coming, so here is a selection of the best that have already arrived.

STRAVINSKIJ BAR

Hotel de Russie, Via del Babuino 9

Easily the smartest watering hole in town, the Stravinskij Bar in the courtyard of Hotel de Russie’s luscious Secret Garden draws many of Rome’s ‘beautiful’ people. Best avoided if you seek privacy from prying eyes, this is a notoriously chic spot to see and be seen, offering exclusive luxury cocktails such as the Stravinskij Spritz, the Bellini derivative ‘Rossini’, or ‘The Ancient Romans Gin Tonic’ ft. VII Hills Gin, Celery, Sage and Black Pepper. If you’re feeling peckish, the bar menu ranges from a cheese toastie to Beluga caviar, and everything in between.

THE JERRY THOMAS

PROJECT, Vicolo Cellini 30

For something different, this small, smoke-filled ’speakeasy’ emulates a style from the Prohibition era. Inspired by a pioneer of the art of mixing drinks, ‘Professor’ Jerry Thomas, a bartender from San Francisco who authored America’s first Bartenders Guide in 1862, this bar has some quirks.

Booking in advance is obligatory, as is a token €5 membership and a peek at its website (or app) ahead of your visit, to obtain the password after answering a question. You are given the day’s password online which you must speak into the intercom to gain access.

Your reward for this rigmarole is a great 1920s atmosphere with personality, live music and a wide range of expert cocktails based on a large selection of gins, some homemade. It’s not great for large groups, nor for people who dislike smoking, nor vodka lovers (it’s banned). But otherwise, this bar is highly recommended.

THE GIN CORNER, Via di Pallacorda 2

Should you find yourself craving gin in the vicinity of the Spanish Steps and Trevi Fountain, pop into Hotel Adriano’s casual lobby bar, with its selection of more than 80 varieties. Styled as Italy’s sole ‘gin only’ bar, The Gin Corner offers probably the greatest range of juniperinfused spirits anywhere. Even the most ardent ginthusiast is likely to discover something new.

CHORUS CAFÉ, Via della Conciliazione 4

To the east of Vatican City, close to Castel Sant’Angelo, lies another smart drinkery. On the second floor of the beautiful art deco ‘Auditorium Conciliazione’, this former Vatican choir room is a sophisticated marble and glass cocktail lounge. Tended by celebrated mixologist, Massimo D'Addezio, Chorus Café’s menu is James Bond-inspired, with a range of homegrown martinis and inventive concoctions.

ZUMA, Via della Fontanella di Borghese 48

To indulge a passion for couture with cocktails, this Japanese-themed rooftop bar on Palazzo Fendi, the fashion label’s flagship store, might be just the place. This swanky bar and restaurant is another of Rome’s current hotspots to see and be seen, with a rooftop overlooking the city. Perhaps offering less variety in cocktails than its contemporaries listed here, Zuma’s excellent Asian cuisine is another draw, though service can be inconsistent.

ENOTECA BULZONI, Viale dei Parioli 36

If it’s the grape you crave, the place to head for is this newly revamped wine emporium that first opened its doors in 1929. Bulzoni started as a modest wine and oil shop, but run today by the third family generation, it’s like a wonderland for oenophiles. Surrounded by over a thousand different wines displayed wallto-wall, tables are dotted around for tasting, drinking and buying, guided by two brothers who really know their onions.

Wines are categorised by method, as Moderno, Vini Come Una Volta and Vini Estremi, produced entirely organically and in a dedicated tasting room all of their own. To sustain the ‘tasting’, sustenance comes in the form of tapas, pintxos and a grand selection of locally-sourced meats and cheeses, though larger plates are available too. If you’re looking to re-stock the galley or the cellar at home, Bulzoni ship throughout Europe, and doubtless your yacht agent can arrange for delivery on-board.