Yankee Magazine May/June 2015

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Coast Guard Beach, Eastham, Massachusetts: one of six swimming

64 /// The Beach That Saved the Cape Cape Cod National Seashore protects miles of dunes, beach, and wild lands in the heart of one of the most popular summer destinations in the country. text by Ian Aldrich, photographs by Christopher Churchill

78 /// Forgotten Islands

One of the best-kept secrets in the National Park system—ideal for walkers, paddlers, campers, and lovers of history and unexpected scenery—awaits just beyond the Boston skyline. by Stephen Jermanok

86 /// A Nation’s Gifts

A sampling of don’t-miss national parks and historic sites around New England, New York, and nearby Canada. compiled by Zinnia Smith, Sean McGlynn & Lila Trowbridge

94 /// The Big Question

“Place is so powerful”: Ranger Ethan Beeler, based in Boston, tells us what it’s like to work at an urban national park. interview by Joe Bills

McLoon’s Lobster Shack on Spruce Head Island, off the coast of South Thomaston, Maine. Island vistas, bay views, fresh seafood: It’s our “Best Hidden Lobster Shack.” For more of this year’s Bests, start on p. 101. photograph by Carl Tremblay

beaches along Cape Cod National Seashore’s 40-mile coastline.

GARDEN GREENS and CASH.

The finest ingredients.

Deliciously tangy flavor. And all our profits go to charity. The perfect way to take your salad (and your generosity) to the next level.

THE GUIDE

180

home

38 /// An Insider’s Guide to Brimfield

Held three times a year in a little town east of Springfield, Massachusetts, the country’s largest antiques fair is a treasure seeker’s paradise, if you know where to go.

by Annie Graves

50 /// Open Studio

Zoe and James Zilian design their agrarian-inspired pottery, kitchen accessories, and home décor in a stylish space in Woodstock, Vermont. by Christie

Matheson

food

54 /// Muffins, Sweet and Savory

They’re easy to make and guaranteed to please. by Molly

Shuster

60 /// Local Flavor

On Nantucket, Black-Eyed Susan’s offers a slice of the good life, thanks to a comfortable ambience and delectable breakfasts and dinners. by Amy

Traverso

62 /// Recipe with a History

Mashed spuds are the secret ingredient in needhams, Maine’s favorite chocolate-covered candy.

by Aimee Seavey

departments

8 ON THE WEB

10

INSIDE YANKEE

Treasures by Mel Allen

12

MARY’S FARM

The Big Sleep by Edie Clark

16

LIFE IN THE KINGDOM

When Everything Seems New Again by Ben Hewitt

22

FIRST LIGHT

Sunrise over Maine’s Cadillac Mountain in Acadia National Park … making summer memories at Tanglewood … all about Del’s Lemonade … tips for building your own outdoor wood-fired oven … and other goings-on around New England this season.

180

COULD YOU LIVE HERE?

Winter Harbor, Maine by Annie Graves

188

HOUSE FOR SALE

The Yankee Moseyer visits a historic home in Francestown, New Hampshire.

200 FROM OUR ARCHIVES

Lucerne-in-Maine

Winter Harbor, a fishing village on Maine’s Schoodic Peninsula, also home to the quiet side of Acadia National Park.

GRILLS

1121 Main St., P.O. Box 520, Dublin, NH 03444 603-563-8111, editor@YankeeMagazine.com

PUBLISHER : Brook Holmberg

EDITORIAL & PRODUCTION

EDITOR: Mel Allen

ART DIRECTOR: Lori Pedrick

MANAGING EDITOR: Eileen T. Terrill

SENIOR LIFESTYLE EDITOR/ FOOD, HOME & GARDEN: Amy Traverso

SENIOR EDITOR: Ian Aldrich

PHOTO EDITOR: Heather Marcus

ASSOCIATE EDITOR: Joe Bills

ASSISTANT EDITOR: Aimee Seavey

INTERN: Taylor Thomas

CONTRIBUTING LIFESTYLE EDITOR: Christie Matheson

CONTRIBUTING EDITORS: Annie Card, Edie Clark, Tim Clark, Jim Collins, Annie Graves, Ben Hewitt, Justin Shatwell, Ken Sheldon, Julia Shipley, Caroline Woodward

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS: Julie Bidwell, Kindra Clineff, Sara Gray, Corey Hendrickson, Matt Kalinowski, Joe Keller, Joel Laino, Jarrod McCabe, Michael Piazza, Heath Robbins, Kristin Teig, Carl Tremblay

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DIGITAL

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SALES IN NEW ENGLAND

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DIRECT RESPONSE: Steven Hall, SteveH@yankeepub.com

CLASSIFIED: Bernie Gallagher, 203-263-7171, classified@yankeepub.com

SALES OUTSIDE NEW ENGLAND

NATIONAL: Susan Lyman, 646-221-4169, susan@selmarsolutions.com

CANADA: Alex Kinninmont, Françoise Chalifour, Cynthia Jollymore, 416-363-1388

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For advertising rates and information: 800-736-1100 x149 YankeeMagazine.com/adinfo

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CONSUMER

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ADVERTISING

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PUBLIC RELATIONS

BRAND MARKETING DIRECTOR : Kate Hathaway Weeks

NEWSSTAND

VICE PRESIDENT: Sherin Pierce

DIRECT SALES MARKETING MANAGER: Stacey Korpi

YANKEE PUBLISHING INC.

established 1935

PRESIDENT: Jamie Trowbridge

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF: Judson D. Hale Sr.

VICE PRESIDENTS: Paul Belliveau Jr., Jody Bugbee, Judson D. Hale Jr., Brook Holmberg, Sherin Pierce

CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER: Ken Kraft

CORPORATE STAFF: Mike Caron, Linda Clukay, Sandra Lepple, Nancy Pfuntner, Bill Price, Christine Tourgee

BOARD OF DIRECTORS

CHAIRMAN: Judson D. Hale Sr.

VICE CHAIRMAN: Tom Putnam

DIRECTORS: Andrew Clurman, H. Hansell Germond, Daniel Hale, Judson D. Hale Jr., Joel Toner, Cor Trowbridge, Jamie Trowbridge

FOUNDERS

ROBB & BEATRIX SAGENDORPH

MY Maine MEMORIES

My lucky clam. Is it really that different from a rabbit’s foot? I’ve been coming north to Maine for what grandpa used to say was “neigh onto four and thirty” years. Found my lucky clam the day I met Molly, when I was 11. Had it in my pocket the day we were married. It has seen the pine wilderness of the Eastern Trail, and each year it gets a fresh sea bath. And soon it will have a place of distinction on the front porch of our home at CAPE ARUNDEL COTTAGE PRESERVE.

Eight-month, two-bedroom cottages starting in the low $200s. Details at capearundelcottages.com

PEARL SEAS CRUISES (SENT SEP.)

Curious how Yankee put together its “Best of New England” list? Use your smartphone to scan the photo of Mel Allen to find out.

Treasures

his year the word anniversary pops up frequently in these offices. In our library, tucked away in a corner of a small conference room, are bound copies of 80 years of issues, beginning with the first inauspicious, even homely, one in September 1935. Our founder, Robb Sagendorph, believed that New England needed a magazine that told the region’s story, a magazine to keep its values and traditions alive. So he created one, and each year another bound volume squeezes onto the shelves. One day we’ll need a bigger room.

This issue gets a head start on another anniversary—one that you’ll be hearing about in the months ahead in the national media. It was on August 25, 1916, that President Woodrow Wilson approved legislation creating the National Park Service within the Interior Department. The National Park Service will celebrate its centennial with a year-long series of events and programs (nps.gov/subjects/centennial/index.htm) ; with more than 400 national parks and thousands of national historic sites, landmarks, and monuments, nearly everyone in America will be close to one of these treasures that have been preserved for us and for everyone who comes after. “A Nation’s Gifts” (p. 86) highlights some of the most intriguing of these treasures, nearly all with a park ranger on hand to add to the experience, not only in the six New England states, but just beyond our borders into New York and neighboring Canada, as well. National Park sites may be the best travel bargains of all. While Acadia is the only designated national park in New England (“Sunrise on Cadillac Mountain,” p. 22), these pages also explore Cape Cod National Seashore (“The Beach That Saved the Cape,” p. 64) and the still-overlooked Boston Harbor Islands National Recreation Area (“Forgotten Islands,” p. 78).

This issue also reveals our annual “Best of New England” selections (p. 101), each a traveler’s treasure waiting to be discovered. A team of writers who know their turf as well as anyone help us sift through the many possibilities: Hilary Nangle (ME); Annie Graves (NH); William Scheller (VT); Patricia Harris and David Lyon (MA); Kara Baskin (Boston); and Kim Knox Beckius (CT and RI). Their ability to find the local secrets, little-known gems, and classic places that have stood the test of time make this section an invaluable guide for anyone wanting to roam about the region. And when that urge to roam strikes, don’t miss Massachusetts’ incomparable carnival devoted to antiques and collectibles hunting (“An Insider’s Guide to Brimfield,” p. 38). After strolling the endless outdoor paths, each one leading to tables and tents of objects you never knew you needed until you held them in your hand, you’ll want to find a shady nook, open something cold to drink, and stretch out with this issue. I hope it will prove the best treasure of all.

SNEAK PEEK INSIDE OUR NEXT ISSUE

Sandcastles: places to stay just steps from the beach. Noted travel writer Chris Tree combs the New England coast to find beachside lodging, from campgrounds to timeless cottages.

Mel Allen, Editor editor@YankeeMagazine.com

In an issue covering the treasures of the National Park Service, it seemed like a good time to recognize several people whom our editors regard as treasures too: our interns. Pictured here (from top) are Lila Trowbridge, a graduate of Clark University; Zinnia Smith, a student at St. Lawrence University; and Sean McGlynn, from Plymouth (NH) State University. Their efforts over the past year helped us put together our “Best of New England” and Canadian and New York “Editors’ Choice” sections, as well as our nationalparks special, for which they compiled a list of several hundred landmarks and historic sites. (Massachusetts alone has some 187 National Historic Landmarks.) You’ll see the results of their work throughout this issue.

Mel Allen

A Most Unusual Gift of Love

THEPOEMREADS:

Dear Reader,

The drawing you see above is called The Promise. It is completely composed of dots of ink. After writing the poem, I worked with a quill pen and placed thousands of these dots, one at a time, to create this gift in honor of my youngest brother and his wife.

Now, I have decided to offer The Promise to those who share and value its sentiment. Each litho is numbered and signed by hand and precisely captures the detail of the drawing. As a wedding, anniversary or Valentine’s gift or simply as a standard for your own home, I believe you will find it most appropriate.

Measuring 14" by 16", it is available either fully-framed in a subtle copper tone with hand-cut double mats of pewter and rust at $135*, or in the mats alone at $95*. Please add $14.50 for insured shipping and packaging. Your satisfaction is completely guaranteed.

My best wishes are with you.

All major credit cards are welcomed. Please send card name, card number, address and expiration date, or phone between 10 a.m.-6 P.M. PST, Monday through Saturday. Checks are also accepted. Please allow 5-10 business days for delivery.

*California residents- please include 8.0% tax

Please visit my Web site at

“Across the years I will walk with you— in deep, green forests; on shores of sand: and when our time on earth is through, in heaven, too, you will have my hand.”

The Big Sleep

When a room becomes your world, every sight, every sound, matters.

ast spring when I was ill and confined to bed, a friend mailed me a little book called The Sound of a Wild Snail Eating, by Elisabeth Tova Bailey. In her thirties, Bailey was overtaken with a mysterious viral illness that left her almost motionless. She needed help even to turn in bed. A friend brought her a pot of violets, which she placed on the bedside table, at eye level. Another friend, while walking in the woods, captured a snail and brought it to her. The snail attached itself to the flowerpot, and a new world opened up for Bailey. Incarcerated by her newly narrowed existence, she fell into the world of the snail.

I was not quite so immobilized, but for long weeks my bed became my world, the room my universe. Fortunately, it was a universe I had created. This house, which was once a rooming house, had seven bedrooms when I first came here. I needed only two. So I consolidated a lot of the smaller rooms into bigger spaces. In the back of the house, there were two tiny bedrooms with an odd shared closet, accessible from both rooms—a Yankee solution to an old problem. We gutted this entire space, which was transformed into a spacious room with windows east and west, letting in an abundance of light, a blend of both rising and setting suns. At the north end of the room, we built closets, and bookcases lined the rest of the walls—my idea of paradise. I painted the walls a mustardy yellow and hung cream-colored curtains. I added art created by friends. Eventually, my great-aunt’s cannonball fourposter bed, full of memories with long reach, joined the milieu. It was a place where I expected to spend a lot of time, but I never thought it would become a room of convalescence.

It was April when I succumbed to this paralyzing and mysterious illness. April is a month many of us here would prefer to miss. We chafe at the slow rise of temperature and occasional subfreezing night. What felt normal a couple of months ago is suddenly unbearable. The mud roads yank the steering wheel from our hands and pull us left and right as if by some strange magnetic force. We slither. We slide. We curse. It’s April! The warmth we crave continues to escape us.

My big sleep ran through April and on into May. It became a time of intense gratitude as friends and family members brought me food, groceries, mail, and medicine. I just about slept through it all while they mowed my lawn and tilled my garden, took my dog, Harriet, for walks, did my laundry, swept my floors. The graciousness went on and on. I was amazed by how much it takes just to keep one human being going. Like Elisabeth Bailey, I lay on my side and watched the fields green and the daffodils release their yellow and the bare sticks of my apple trees turn white as snow. In her book, Bailey’s world constricts so tightly that she can hear the sound of her snail eating the moss off the side of the flowerpot, a sound she compares to that of a small child munching celery. In my case, it wasn’t so much what I heard (though eventually, the windows were thrown open, admitting the comical, almost deafening birdsong and the guttural welcome of the peepers) as what I saw, my beloved world, every single leaf and blade of grass, waiting for me to emerge.

Edie Clark’s latest book

is What There Was Not to Tell: A Story of Love and War

Order your copy, as well as Edie’s other works, at: YankeeMagazine.com/store or edieclark.com

When Everything Seems New Again

Spring comes to the Hewitt homestead, at first gently, then in a torrent, as the land turns green in pastures and forests. Third in a series.

he reluctant departure of winter means that the pasture remains brown and sere at the outset of May. Heavy frost still comes most nights, riming the ground, and we begin each day with a small fire in the cookstove, just enough to make coffee and chase away the morning chill. If we had more wood, we might stoke the fire once again midmorning, but the woodshed is down to a handful of oddball sticks, the runts and funnyshaped rejects we could afford to discard when the shed was better stocked. On a couple of occasions I consider going into the woods in search of a deadfall, but scrounging for firewood in May whispers of a desperation I can’t quite admit to, so instead we let the fires go out and don woolen hats until the sunshine filtering through the windows warms the house enough to take them off.

Despite the lingering cold, the excitement of the season has us firmly it its thrall. In May, anything and everything seem possible. This is good, because there’s much to be done. The gardens must be prepped, winter mulch pulled off the beds to let the soil warm. As always, there

PHOTOGRAPHS BY PENNY HEWITT

CABOT

are fences to repair. We’d moved the chickens into one of the greenhouses for the winter so that we could demolish their old, dilapidated coop; this was a wise and necessary task, but now we need the greenhouse for tomato starts and have no place to move the chickens. I begin constructing a new coop but soon run out of lumber, so I spend a precious half-day tinkering with the sawmill and the other equally precious half pulling balsam-fir logs from the woods with the tractor.

The animals seem to feel the excitement, too. They pace their respective paddocks, sensing that soon they’ll be turned out to the first tender shoots of grass. We’ll have to turn them out earlier than is ideal; in the extreme cold of this unrelenting winter, they ate more than usual, and our hay has held up no better than our firewood. Sure, we could buy more, but hay is expensive, and such purchases can’t be made lightly.

The days pass so quickly that they feel liquid. One minute we’re waking up, the next we’re tucking in, and whatever happened in between already feels as though it happened in another life, maybe even to someone else. We rise early, aided and abetted by Fin and Rye’s fervent desire to get a wild turkey into the freezer. Vermont’s turkey season begins on May 1, and every morning the boys are up before 5:00, dressing in camo and rubbing

one another’s cheeks with cork they’ve charred in the fire. “Papa, do you see any bright spots?” they ask me, tilting their expectant faces into the light for inspection.

I rub the cork over the places they missed, and they head out the door to the blind they built out of leaves and branches at the fringe of our neighbor Melvin’s back pasture. They know there’s a flock roosting nearby. They’ve seen where the birds have scratched the forest floor in search of grubs and

insects. They’ve heard the males gobbling. Penny and I stand at the kitchen sink and watch them disappear down the pasture, their footprints just visible in the frost-white grass. Three hours later they return home, and I don’t have to ask whether they’ve had any luck, because we’d have heard the shot. This happens morning after morning, and to my great surprise, the boys don’t seem discouraged. I’m not a hunter; I can’t fathom their patience, but I’m glad for it.

One morning after they return from the turkey blind, Fin takes the season’s first swim. It’s not an auspicious day for a first swim—raw and blustery, no more than 50 degrees—but Fin has never experienced cold the way most people do. He strips naked and throws himself into the frigid water, whooping, while Rye watches from the shore, cloaked in wool. “Come on, Papa, come on!” Fin calls from the pond, and for a second I actually consider joining him, if only for bragging rights. But common sense prevails.

Finally, the weather breaks for real, and the slow march of spring’s arrival becomes a sprint. The transformation is almost breathtaking in both speed and force. Suddenly everything is green—and not the pale green of April’s tentative foliage, but a shade so deep and verdant I think I might be able to taste it. Then it rains; the pasture grows by inches each day, and I no longer think I can taste the green—I know I can. I exhale a heavy breath I didn’t know I’d been holding.

OPPOSITE : The author hauls hay onto the tractor, where his sons, Fin and Rye, await two of the 1,000 bales they’ll store in the barn by summer’s end. THIS PAGE , TOP : Wild-turkey season brings high hopes for Rye, but no dinner. BOTTOM : Rye helps plant the potato crop: two rows down, a dozen more to go.

The days pass so quickly they feel liquid. One minute we’re waking up, the next we’re tucking in, and whatever happened in between already feels as though it happened in another life.

BY BEN HEWITT

On May 15, with three bales of hay remaining in the barn, the sheep go onto grass. The new lambs have never set foot on pasture, but they know just what to do. On May 16, we release the cows from their winter paddock. They run and cavort with lumbering bovine glee, tails streaming in the air behind them.

Sometimes I think about how our lives have come to be defined by the seasons, and how each season provides in its own particular way. In winter, we rest until we become restless, at which point we cut firewood and plan for spring, making extensive lists of ambitious projects that in our fevered imaginations we truly believe we’ll accomplish: Build chicken coop. Start new barn. Roof over sawmill. Plant orchard.

In spring, we sugar and seed, our energy building like the sap rising in the trees. Heady in our optimism, we add to the list: Fix front stoop. New plastic on small greenhouse. Clear lower side of farm road.

“I know,” Penny says, “let’s build a sauna, right by the pond.”

“Why not?” I say. “Everyone needs a sauna by a pond.” She adds Build sauna to the list. Our enthusiasm knows no bounds.

And now, finally, comes the release, the days we’ve anticipated for months, although suddenly, in the midst of planting and fencing and sawing and building, we realize how foolish we’ve been. A sauna?! Ha! So silly. We cross Build sauna off the list. Maybe next year. Start the new barn?! Who are we kidding? We cross off Start new barn. We plant a few apple trees, but an orchard?! Not even if we squint. Not even close. So we cross that off, too. We finish the chicken coop and get the plastic on the greenhouse and decide

FROM TOP : A walk in the woods surrounding the Hewitt homestead means pheasant-back mushrooms, fiddlehead ferns, and wood nettles; the pond lures the Hewitt boys on the prowl for crayfish.

that the front stoop and the sawmill roof can wait until fall. Surely we’ll have time then. Surely.

May comes and goes. The boys don’t get a turkey. But that’s okay, and besides, the brookies are biting in their favorite fishing hole. They carry them home two and three and sometimes even four at a time, and we fry them in butter. The boys eat everything, even the heads.

I go looking for morel mushrooms to add to the pan, but my usual hotspot is cold. Four days later I return there, expecting nothing, but there are mushrooms everywhere, a carpet of them. I’ve brought no bag or basket; instead, I fill my ball cap to overflowing and then make a pouch of my shirt. We eat morels for three meals straight and then they’re gone. It’ll be nearly a year before we eat them again, and even then, who knows? Morels are tricky; they offer no guarantees.

The gardens are more reliable, and now they’re planted in full, row after row of fledging starts, enough to grow

a year’s worth of vegetables and some surplus to barter with friends. The blueberries flower and set fruit. A good crop. The chickens seem pleased with their new coop, and the small greenhouse is given over to tomatoes. From the big greenhouse, we harvest early salads of lettuce, sorrel, and spinach. We haven’t had fresh greens

winter’s worth of feed for our animals. The season will provide. It always does.

On a cool Saturday morning in early June, I walk down the field to find a new calf wobbling at its mother’s side. It’s hours old and still unsure of itself, tottering as it nuzzles for a teat. I pull up short and stand for a minute

for months, and we eat them ravenously, absence having made our tastebuds fonder. Up the road, Jimmy takes his first cutting of hay, and I know it won’t be long before we’re stacking bales on the wagon behind our friend Martha’s old John Deere. We’ll fill our barn with 1,000 or more bales of hay, and then we’ll run to the pond and leap in, gratefully exhausted. Another

to watch. I want to see the calf nurse, partly because seeing it nurse is the best antidote to my lingering concern that it might not nurse, but also because watching a newborn calf nurse is one of the small pleasures of rural life. At 42, I still need to remind myself not to let these pleasures pass me by.

The air is thick with mist, and moisture collects on my skin. It’s cool

Saturday, June 20, 2015, 1pm–4pm

Suddenly everything is green—and not the pale green of April’s tentative foliage, but a shade so deep and verdant I think I might be able to taste it.

enough that I shiver a bit in my T-shirt, and I will the calf to find its mark so that I can begin to move again, to warm myself with my own pumping blood. The calf wobbles some more, its pursed mouth finding everything but its target. It suckles at its mother’s leg. It suckles at her flank. It suckles at the air. Finally, just as I’m about to press forward to offer assistance, it finds a teat and begins to drink. I can hear the slurping from 20 yards away, and I pause for just a moment longer, standing at the far end of our pasture as the day lightens around me, my skin goosebumped, my boots soaked through from the dew-wet grass, watching the newborn calf nurse.

I’ve seen it a hundred or more times before. I’ve crossed our pasture tenfold times more than that. No, twentyfold. More. But I’ve never seen this calf nurse on this morning. I’ve never crossed our pasture on this day, the mist lifting in precisely the way it’s lifting now, like a slow curtain, revealing the sun. Everything feels new again.

Yankee’s editors and author Ben Hewitt understand that the term “Northeast Kingdom” popularly refers to Orleans, Essex, and Caledonia counties in northern Vermont. We’ve taken a bit of artistic license in asking Ben Hewitt to write about his family and fellow Vermonters who may live outside those boundaries, because the term “the Kingdom” captures perfectly the mindset and singular way of life that Yankee has always respected.

Ben Hewitt’s newest book, The Nourishing Homestead: One Back-to-the-Land Family’s Plan for Cultivating Soil, Skills, and Spirit, was published in February by Chelsea Green.

FROM TOP : Feeding time for a day-old bull calf, a milking shorthorn/Jersey cross; Fin takes a break from stacking bales to catch up on his reading.

Soon we’ll fill our barn with 1,000 bales of hay. The season will provide. It always does.

John Woodmansee

First LIGHT

ACADIA

PHOTOGRAPHS BY CARL TREMBLAY

NATIONAL TREASURES

Sunrise on Cadillac Mountain

sunrise isn’t so much an event as an experience, I’m thinking on this morning, and there’s not a single sunrise but an infinite number of them, as they’re viewed and experienced continuously, in every moment, around the world. But here and now, on Cadillac Mountain in Acadia National Park, overlooking the Gulf of Maine, Frenchman Bay, and Bar Harbor, we have the first sunrise in the United States—and it’s very clear that this is an important experience for the hundreds of people gathering here day after day to witness this particular rising.

We arrive at 4:45 a.m. on this day in October, and there are about a half-dozen cars in the parking lot. Sunrise itself is almost two hours away, at 6:42, but some people, such as Cindy Paisner, from Massachusetts, have come early enough to see “first break,” the first changing of the light. “And God said, ‘Let there be light,’” Cindy says, and then repeats the words in Hebrew. Cindy isn’t particularly religious—she’s actually in Bar Harbor for hiking and biking in addition to the sunrise experience—but she’ll call her rabbi when she returns home for confirmation that what she has witnessed is shacharit, the time when, in the Jewish faith, there’s just enough light for morning prayers. We walk together on a pathway to the highest point, where Cindy and her partner, Jim, soon sit down and huddle under a blanket on a rocky knob, alone for a few minutes but amid a crowd within an hour and a half.

Whether climbing on foot to the summit of Acadia National Park’s Cadillac Mountain on hiking trails, or by car on the twisting 3.5-mile road, hundreds of visitors, wrapped warmly against the early chill, arrive in the dark to be among the first in the continental U.S. to witness sunrise. (From October to early March, the sun strikes Cadillac Mountain first; at other times Mars Hill in Aroostook County claims the first-light crown.) Cadillac Mountain is one of more than 20 mountains on Mount Desert Island, and at 1,530 feet, it’s the highest point along the North Atlantic seacoast.

Each day before dawn, hundreds of pilgrims make their way to Acadia National Park’s highest point, eager to claim being the first to feel the glow.

BY DOUGLAS WHYNOTT

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My wife and I walked on the path that loops around this mountaintop, taking in what light there was overhead, from a moon a week beyond full, casting a silvery sheen on the water. The islands in Frenchman Bay were in dark relief against the bright water. Bar Harbor was alight below, but to a limited degree, since there happens to be a light ordinance there to protect views of the night sky. The moonlight also shone upon the lichens on the granite rocks, giving then a soft neon glow. Arriving here at first break, we had the feeling that we were getting more out of the day, that we were up and alive while others were sleeping, that special privilege.

As a peach glow appeared—or rather, broke—on the horizon 50 miles away, one thing that became clear was that the pleasure of this event wasn’t so much about what was happening in the sky as how the light was playing upon the water. As clouds passed over, the silver sheen turned to a leaden gray, and as the sky suffused with a dark apricot, the sea took on that light too.

In the darkness we saw other people spreading over the rocks, and often, the glow of a camera, with a figure next to a tripod. This was certainly a photographers’ event, and these folks had come here to be productive, which was apparent in the firm set of their jaws and the purpose in their eyes as they hunted out their spots—the “tripodistas,” we began calling them. One set up behind Cindy and Jim and soon said, “Will you be standing up?” (though he did provide them with a nice shot of a blanket over two heads, a yellowish light in the distance).

I think it’s important to note that the time from first break to sunrise, from 5:10 to 6:42 on this day, is the duration of the show, that hour and a half when the curtain stirs to the final applause and exit from the theatre. That’s when light comes, shapes, and forms, and climactically appears unmasked. But not everyone arrives on time, and I could hear cars and the hum of tires coming up the mountain road. By 6:00 the sizable parking lot was approaching full. By 6:25, 17 minutes from climax, cars were

Lady Captain’s Ring

streaming by fast, searching for parking spaces, and you’d want to be very careful crossing that lot. There must have been 300 people by then. Some were running.

We’d taken a short hike on the North Ridge Trail in the dark, the moonlight enough to show us the way, and the balsams in night mode as fragrant as I’d ever smelled. But we quickly turned back, not wanting to miss the show. We stood among a crowd and heard one woman say, “We didn’t know about this; we just heard about it. But we decided we had to come, because we wanted to be first.”

Because of the clouds there was no true sunrise that day, only a vertical band of yellow-gold light behind the haze. Checking their watches or phones, people immediately began turning for their cars at 6:43, or maybe it was 6:45. But it was certainly beautiful nevertheless, with the day warming and the sky full of light. I wondered if there would be applause the next day, with its forecast of clear skies.

The following morning the temperature was 40 degrees at 5:00 a.m., but a brisk wind made the air feel much colder. The many more people who scaled the mountain that day also brought many more blankets and found places in the rocks to huddle,

Greeting the sun in the morning is likely built into whatever within our souls touches upon the ancient: sun gods, sun worship, the belief that our proper actions brought forth the sun.

or to curl up together in hollows. And again, despite the big crowd, which must have reached 400, the mountaintop held the same feeling of quiet. The parking lot filled earlier, and eventually cars were parked on both sides of the road leading down the mountain.

The tripodistas were the same, scampering for their views. One was from Pensacola, Florida, and set up with his friend on the same rock that Cindy and Jim had inhabited the day before. Nearby were their two wives, who had prepared for the cold on this Northern vacation, bringing parkas and headbands. “My husband just loves to take photographs,” one woman remarked, and she and her friend shivered.

First break was a clearer statement, as was the approaching sun, south of due east. (The only time the sun rises directly due east is the equinox.) You could see that golden, molten glow in the moments before it actually happened.

I wondered: Is there any reverence here? I didn’t go about asking that question (“Are you reverent, or have you been feeling reverent today?”), but

I suppose there was, because this act of greeting the sun in the morning is likely inherent in us, built into whatever within our souls touches upon the ancient and upon our ancestors, this act going back to our earliest conscious moments. Sun gods, sun worship, the belief that our proper actions brought forth the sun.

As the sun appeared and lifted, one mixed group of Chinese and American students formed letters with their bodies and took pictures, while a girl jumped up in the air to be caught above ground, and another had his photo taken with the sun in his hand.

But even before the sun had fully risen over the horizon, people had turned for the parking lot and their cars, to beat the traffic, I figured.

I was curious about the man who had reached for his backpack and pulled out a little gift-wrapped box. He gave it to his girlfriend, her head covered by a sweatshirt hood. She laughed, then cried, and then threw her arms around him. I walked away, to give them their private moment. By then the sun was fully above the horizon, and I had the feeling that a thousand sunrises were following in quick succession.

For maps and info: 207-288-3338; nps.gov/acad/index.htm

For a selection of best attractions in Acadia National Park and the towns of Mount Desert Island, see p. 106. See more stunning photos at: YankeeMagazine.com/Acadia

The summit view of Frenchman Bay is punctuated by the Porcupine Islands. As the sun rises slowly over the Schoodic Peninsula, visitors can plan the day ahead. Acadia National Park is one of America’s most popular parks, with miles of carriage roads and hiking trails. Bustling Bar Harbor and coastal villages such as Northeast Harbor and Southwest Harbor await nearby.

Douglas Whynott is the author of five books, all centered on New England life. His most recent, The Sugar Season, is an unforgettable look at one family’s maple operation in New Hampshire. He is an associate professor of writing at Emerson College.

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Learn why this celebrated op-ed columnist for The NY Times and commentator for PBS Newshour, NPR’s All Things Considered, and NBC’s Meet the Press sees an engaged inner life as a prerequisite to a life of meaning and fulfillment.

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A Black Fly Primer

Your guide to New England’s perennial pest.

BY KEN SHELDON

lack flies belong to the genus Simulium , which includes hundreds of different species. Among those found in New England are: S. piscaggravatum, which tends to hover around fishermen; S. gardannoyia , the bane of gardeners from Calais to Connecticut; S. trekinterruptus , the hiker’s nemesis; and S. brahminium , which prefers the blue blood of Beacon Hill residents.

Light Lunch

Black flies feed in the daytime. (At night, they hang out at black-fly bars and tell stories about “the big guy that got away.”) Thus, one way to avoid them is simply to do all outdoor activities—such as raking, gardening, and picnicking—at night. (Activities that involve sharp objects and motorized vehicles are not recommended.)

Location, Location, Location

Black flies tend to bite where the skin is thin, such as the nape of the neck, the ears, and the ankles. Knowledge of these prime locations is passed on from generation to generation in schools, where young flies are also taught to “Just say no” to DEET.

Bug Off

In times past, hunters and fishermen used a variety of homemade concoctions to repel black flies, including a mixture of kerosene and mutton tallow, which might have kept the bugs away but didn’t do much for their love lives.

Breed Easy

Black flies lay their eggs in running water (mosquitos had already locked up the still-water franchise). In 1899, Miss R. O. Phillips at Cornell U. provided a detailed analysis of the breeding habits of black flies as part of her graduating thesis, a study that earned her the title of “Girl You Least Want to Be Paired With at a Mixer.”

Facial Attraction

Black flies tend to swarm near the face because they’re attracted to the carbon dioxide in people’s breath. Therefore, one obvious way to avoid them is simply to stop breathing. If that seems excessive, you could also purchase a gas mask, available at all fine survivalist outfitters.

Gobbling Gourmets

Only female black flies bite, while males dine on plant nectar. The female prefers blood because “I’m eating for several hundred, you know.” Even those that don’t bite can be annoying, as they swarm in large numbers, like motorists on holiday weekends.

Shift Work

Activity peaks from 9 to 11 a.m., after which black flies take a coffee break, and union flies don’t return to work until about 4 p.m. In 1987, an ill-fated swarm of black flies stayed out past curfew and spent the entire night trying to draw blood from a plastic wading pool, an embarrassment to the black-fly community to this day.

Bug Potion #9

Over the years, enterprising Yankees have peddled a wide variety of creams and lotions designed to fend off black flies. In the 1800s, A. S. Hinds of Portland, Maine, touted his Black Fly Cream as “not objectionable even to the most fastidious,” though he declined to say what was in it. The only substance proven to repel black flies is DEET (diethylmermanol), which, despite some people’s concerns, is perfectly safe as long as you don’t put it on your skin.

Floral Force Fields

A wide variety of plants have been alleged to repel black flies, including marigolds, citronella, eucalyptus, parsley, sage, rosemary, and thyme. Apparently if you surround yourself with such vegetation you’ll be black fly–free. Of course, you’ll also smell like an organic food store, and hemp fanatics will try to recruit you.

Gone With the Wind

The average black fly weighs about as much as a snowflake, which means that a good stiff breeze tends to disperse them. Thus, if you really want to avoid the little buggers, take a trip up Mount Washington, which basically invented the “stiff breeze.”

Black Fly Boutique

Conventional wisdom calls for light-colored clothing and head nets to keep black flies away. Real Yankees put the finishing touch on with duct tape to seal the deal.

NEW ENGLAND By the Numbers

COMPILED BY JULIA SHIPLEY

USEFUL STUFF FROM 80 YEARS OF YANKEE

Sayings of the Oracle

MAY 1951

Vermont: Dear Oracle: … It is a trend of extravagant times, I maintain, that the old-fashioned pincushion is no longer in the home! Old Yankee thrift dictated the slogan: “See a pin and pick it up.” … Today miles of brass are lost and thrown away as pins! —D. deP.

Answer: You’re right, by Judas! We remember cleaning out the old house where our grandparents lived and finding half a dozen pincushions filled with

pins. We also found a ball of string the size of a nail keg, a pickle barrel twothirds full of cork stoppers, and five barrels of empty bottles. A box stall in the barn was half-full of old shoes, broom handles, rusty baling wire, and the remains of 14 pairs of old overalls, all saved through the years by these thrifty souls, and we wonder what the devil for!

MAY 1957

Michigan: Dear Oracle: … What does the expression “hoss chestnut weather” mean?

Answer: Old-timers used to believe that if a man carried a hoss chestnut in his pocket it would stave off rheumatism. Our old grandfather, who would be about 120 years old today if he were alive, would always grunt that “a man needed his hoss chestnut” if the weather got cold and damp. Get more good advice at: YankeeMagazine.com/ Oracle

WE WERE RIGHT ALL ALONG

TWO

ways (on ground and by water) the DUKW explores Boston; DUKW is derived from General Motors

terminology: D (designed in 1942), U (utility), K (all-wheel drive), W (dual real axles)

21,000 number of DUKWs built by General Motors during WWII

1994

year the Duck Tour was launched in Boston

FORTY

percentage of all over-beach supplies in Normandy delivered by DUKWs, a.k.a. “Ducks,” in WWII

conDUCKtors

ZERO

cost for a WWII veteran to ride the Duck Tour

number of DUKW replicas in the fleet conducting the part-terrestrial part-aquatic tour of Boston

TWENTY ONE

mechanics on staff keeping DUKWs running

—Mollie Beattie (1947–1996). The first woman to head the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, Mollie Beattie was lauded as “the strongest single voice for wildlife conservation” in the Clinton administration. She studied forestry at the University of Vermont and public administration at Harvard and became a forceful voice in Vermont conservation before being chosen to head the FWS. After three years, illness forced her to resign from the service, and she died in Townshend, Vermont, at age 49. The Mollie Beattie Wilderness in the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge is named for her.

36 number of passengers who can ride in each vehicle

EIGHTY percentage of energy for the Boston Duck garage generated from solar panels

100 percentage of the Duck Tour fleet running on biodiesel

600,000 number of passengers carried by the Duck Tour fleet each year

BOSTON DUCK TOURS

“What a country chooses to save is what a country chooses to say about itself.”

Ancient Ovens

A master of outdoor wood-fired ovens shares some tips.

BY JOE BILLS

f you’ve ever wanted to have a wood-fired earthen oven in your backyard—whether for making homemade pizza or bread or simply because it’s really cool to have one—there’s no better place to start than with one of Stu Silverstein’s books or workshops. A native of New Haven, Connecticut, Stu moved to northern New England years ago, and was disappointed to find little beyond “supermarket mush” at his local stores. He set out to make great bread, but fell in love with outdoor ovens. He’s a master of the form and loves to teach. If you think having an outdoor oven sounds like fun, Stu has some recommendations about where to start your thought process.

Keep It Legal

Start by talking with your local code-enforcement officer. In most places, ovens are treated as outdoor fireplaces, and usually that’s allowed, but not always. Some places permit wood burning only on certain days. If there are good reasons not to have an outdoor oven, don’t.

Budget

With a little scrounging, you can build a mud oven for free. You’ll need some old bricks, some clay and sand, and maybe a stray piece of sheet metal for a cover. Your oven can be grand or primitive—the food really doesn’t care. Whatever the cost, the baking principles don’t change. The skill of the baker determines the quality of the result, so be prepared for some bumps along the way. Don’t get discouraged—even “mistakes” are often tasty.

It Takes a Village

You can build an oven in a weekend, but it’s a lot of work, so you’ll want to involve as many people as you can. Kids of all ages will love working the clay with their hands. When you’re done, you’ll have a new reason for get-togethers. You’ll have people over whom you haven’t seen in ages (perhaps including some you may not want to see, so plan accordingly).

Cover Up

Putting a roof over your oven is a good idea. Once fired, it will get very hard and tough, like ceramic. But an earthen oven that gets wet too often can easily forget about being an oven and go back to being mud. Properly protected, an outdoor mud oven can

be used year-round and should last for many years.

Size Matters

The bigger the oven, the more labor is involved. You want room to maneuver breads and pizzas around, and you need space to build a fire, but extra space also means more time to heat and more wood consumption. “For me,” Silverstein says, “an oven with a 31½-inch-diameter floor is perfect. It’s not too big, it’s not too small, and it works for either bread or pizza. You can cook other things, too. After the bread comes out, the temperature is just about right for roasting chickens. Know what you’re looking to do, and build appropriately.”

Get Comfortable

Your efforts will be wasted if you don’t enjoy using your oven, so consider your comfort. “I have a concrete pad in front of mine,” Silverstein says, “because I’m in a wet area, and I don’t like standing in mud. Ovens can be built right on the ground, but adding a stone or concrete base will save your back. I’d suggest a height between 36 and 48 inches. I’m 6 feet tall, and my hearth height is 40 inches. Having an outdoor oven is pretty spectacular, and a little extra thought up front will make your experience more pleasant for years.”

For lots more tips, go to: stusilverstein.com

ASK

Music with a View

At Tanglewood, “summer home of the Boston Symphony Orchestra,” the only thing better than the music and the scenery is enjoying both at once.

BY AIMEE SEAVEY

s there a better way to spend a warm summer evening than at Tanglewood? You can walk its 250 acres in the lush Berkshire Hills of western Massachusetts as the breeze carries the notes of musicians warming up. Here, concertgoers ditch fancy dress for blue jeans, dinner reservations for picnic baskets, and the best seats in the house are the cheapest if the weather’s cooperating, on the grass and under the stars. It’s this dreamy combination of artistry, community, and nature that has made Tanglewood a favorite destination for more than 350,000 visitors each year, not to mention some of the world’s finest performers.

The Tanglewood tradition dates back to 1936, when the Boston Symphony Orchestra (BSO) gave its first outdoor concerts in the region. That same year, the donation of the Tanglewood estate in Lenox (named for the 1853 Tanglewood Tales by Nathaniel Hawthorne) paved the way for then-conductor Serge Koussevitzky to officially found in 1937 the festival we know today: summer home of the BSO and the place that has nurtured so many musicians over the years. Here the Tanglewood Music Center began in 1940 as a place where young performers could benefit from the richness of the orchestra’s resources. Who wouldn’t want to learn here? In fact, an estimated 20 percent of today’s American symphony-orchestra members once spent their summer days being inspired at the Tanglewood Music Center.

Sounds of a summer night, from late June through Labor Day, may be classical, pop, folk, or jazz. Do you love Mozart and Beethoven? You can hear it all here. James Taylor wouldn’t miss his July 4th concert. There’s a week-long Festival of Contemporary Music in July and a John Williams Film Night with the Boston Pops—all in a setting beautiful and serene. Choosing just which show to see (or hear, as the case may be) is the hard part, but once that’s settled, all that’s left for you to do is to walk toward the fan-shaped, open-air Kousse vitzky Music Shed and the lawn beyond as the sun sets. The heady combination of beautiful music, picnic food eaten on a grassy lawn that seems to stretch forever, and the amiable company of fellow music lovers is enough to rival any frontrow seat in America.

TANGLEWOOD. 297 West St., Lenox, MA. To mark the 75th anniversary of the Tanglewood Music Center, the 2015 season will include special performances and the début of more than 30 new works commissioned for the occasion. 888-266-1200 (tickets); bso.org. Planning an elegant picnic?

Check out our tips at: YankeeMagazine.com/Tanglewood

TOP : Tanglewood founder Serge Koussevitzky, 1946. LEFT : A 1941 “Gala Benefit” for the USO and British War Relief.

THE GREAT LOBSTER GIVEAWAY FROM TRENTON BRIDGE LOBSTER POUND & YANKEE MAGAZINE

Enter the Great Lobster Giveaway between April 27 and May 11 for your chance to win a 10-pound package of lobsters from Trenton Bridge Lobster Pound! The winner will receive eight 1.25-pound lobsters PLUS a graniteware stock pot, a cracker, and 4 picks, delivered right to their door anywhere in the continental U.S. Enter daily online at: YankeeMagazine.com. For additional entries go to: Facebook.com/YankeeMagazine

TASTE OF BAR HARBOR FOOD FESTIVAL

MAY 14-17, 2015

BAR HARBOR, ME

Enjoy the best that Bar Harbor has to eat and drink at its annual food festival, the Taste of Bar Harbor. This festival celebrates the rich culinary traditions of our region, and explores the exciting industries that are shaping the new fl avors of Bar Harbor.

www.barharborinfo.com

207-288-5103

PROGRESSIVE DINNER VIA TROLLEY

SUNDAY SERIES:

MAY 31, JUNE 21, OCT. 25, NOV. 15, & DEC. 6 KENNEBUNKPORT, MAINE

A unique dining experience. Hop aboard the trolley for a tour of Kennebunkport area restaurants! One course & drink at each stop. Different dining experiences each date. Tour starts & ends at The Nonantum Resort, 95 Ocean Ave. Free parking.

Overnight packages available.

First LIGHT | UP CLOSE: DEL’S LEMONADE

The “ade” suffix indicates that the drink isn’t 100 percent juice. The earliest known lemonade was called qatarmizat by the Egyptians, who concocted it in 500 A D A lemonade variation made with sparkling water and honey was all the rage in Paris in the 1630s.

Feeling under the weather?

Have a lemonade. In the 1800s, hot “flaxseed lemonade” was considered a cold remedy. According to an 1881 article, the Shakers considered lemonade among “the healthiest and most refreshing of all drinks,” prescribing it for the treatment of digestive disorders.

In 1993, coffee milk edged out Del’s Lemonade in a competition to be named the official state beverage of Rhode Island.

Frozen lemonade made its first appearance in 1840 in Naples, Italy. Family lore has it that around that time, Franco DeLucia’s father started storing ice in hayinsulated caves, where it would last until the summer lemon crop ripened. His combination of lemon juice, sugar, and shaved ice was a hit at the local market.

Franco DeLucia brought the family recipe with him to Rhode Island around the turn of the 20th century. Franco worked for machine-tool maker Brown & Sharpe and sold lemonade at pool

halls in his spare time. Franco’s son Angelo later owned the Oak Hill Bowl-Away in Cranston. Looking to diversify his business during the slow season, Angelo developed a machine for mixing

frozen lemonade and opened the first Del’s Lemonade stand in 1948. By 1955, the business was so successful that he sold the bowling alley to focus on Del’s.

At first, Del’s was sold from pushcarts. Soon after, the company started using trucks to take the beverage anywhere that Rhode Islanders tended to congregate. The first Del’s Lemonade vehicles were modified Table Talk Pies trucks.

In a typical summer, Del’s juices about 300,000 lemons. Other vendors have slushies or smoothies, but Del’s prefers that its signature product be identified as “soft frozen lemonade.”

According to Joe Padula, Del’s executive VP, there’s a right way and a wrong way to drink a Del’s. The wrong way? Use a straw to suck all the juice out, leaving yourself with a cup of ice. The right way? Hold the drink and let the heat from your hand melt it a little bit, then sip. Shaking the cup gently from side to side between sips also helps release the flavor.

Rhode Island–raised filmmakers Bobby and Peter Farrelly have shown Del’s in their movies There’s Something About Mary and Me, Myself and Irene. Del’s has also been featured in the TV shows Providence and Maybe It’s Me, and in an episode of Family Guy, in which a banner reading “Enjoy Del’s Frozen Lemonade” trails behind an airplane.

—compiled by Joe Bills

Read about Rhode Island’s other signature drink: Yankee Magazine.com/CoffeeMilk

Founded by Angelo DeLucia in 1948, Del’s remains a family business, now employing a fifth generation of DeLucias. But with 25 franchises in five states, Del’s is a secret no more, having grown into one of Rhode Island’s signature brands.

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The GUIDE HOME

The New England Motel field: Capitol Salvage at left, Z’s Antiques across the aisle on the right.

antiques

The country’s largest antiques fair is a treasure seeker’s paradise, if you know where to go.

AN I N S I DER ’S GU I DE BRIMFIELD

BY ANNIE GRAVES

PHOTOGRAPHS BY JOEL LAINO

hey come seeking old linens, antlers, and vintage marquee lights. City stylists and Brimfield regulars make a beeline for their favorite vendors, while the crowds part whenever Oprah, Martha, Ralph, and their assistants sweep through. It’s a three-ring circus, a sprawling mass of temptation, and all of us—seasoned pros, gawkers, VIPs, and the wide-eyed uninitiated—stand in awe of the spectacle that is Brimfield. Like our one-name celebrities, it stands alone.

This mother of all antiques markets bursts upon us three times a year: in May, July, and September. For six

manic days, 6,000 dealers spread over 23 fields, on a one-mile stretch of Route 20 that cuts through the farm country east of Springfield, Massachusetts. The rules of engagement are tricky. Some fields are free; some charge admission. Gates swing open at 6:00 a.m., or even sunrise, or noon, accommodating every sleep pattern. Opening days are staggered; some fields are open every day, others only for one day.

It’s the Colosseum of flea markets, chaotic and steamy and loud and crazy. But is there—in the midst of all this madness—a thread of order? We asked Brimfield veterans, walked the fields, and tried to extrapolate. Before we knew it, there was a map. A treasure

map, of sorts, and a few modest groupings. Enough, in any case, to get you oriented for your own Great Brimfield Adventure.

2015 DATES

May 12–17

July 14–19

September 8–13

Yankee staffers will be at Brimfield on May 12. For tips on preparing for your own treasure-hunting trip, go to: YankeeMagazine.com/Brimfield

Annie Graves is a Yankee contributing editor. anniegraves.com

A QUICK GUIDE TO THE FIELDS

Every field at Brimfield sells a bit of everything, but some vendors do cluster together. Our map gives you the lowdown on what you’ll find at our favorite fields.

The Meadows: Midcentury and industrial finds

Quaker Acres: Shabby-chic, cottage, vintage

Hertan’s: Imported linens, country furnishings

Midway: Old-time canoes and boats, camp-style goods

Shelton’s: Exotica, including Buddhas, ropes of beads, etc.

Mahogany Ridge: Retro jewelry, vintage clothing

THE ESSENTIALS

» WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW WHEN YOU GO ...

1. Invest in one of the ubiquitous (and invaluable) $35 rolling carts for small purchases.

2. Bring a notebook to record where you bought those bocce balls. (You never know when you’ll want to retrace your steps, and you may think you’ll remember. You won’t.)

3. Carry sunscreen and drink lots of water. (If you hear a siren, it’s probably heat stroke.)

4. Wear comfy shoes and a hat, and layer your clothing. You’ll probably broil in July, but September has been known to heat up, too.

MAP ILLUSTRATION BY RYAN O’ROURKE

ASK THE EXPERT

WE ASKED

SOME

EXPERIENCED BRIMFIELD SHOPPERS—A DEALER, A STYLIST, A DESIGNER, A SHOP OWNER, EVEN A CHEF—FOR THEIR BEST INSIDER FIELD-SURVIVAL TIPS.

SUSAN BATES

25+-YEAR BRIMFIELD EXHIBITOR

I love Quaker Acres. It’s very eclectic, from rustic to high-end. I’ve tried a lot of fields; it takes time to find your place. Some fields empty out later in the week and there’s no one around you. Everyone stays at Quaker Acres.

Recommended Fields

New England Motel for midcentury furniture; Hertan’s for Eastern European linens; Quaker Acres for garden accents.

Strategy

Make a list ahead of time, with measurements. Try to stick to your list—Brimfield is vast, and there are many distractions!

Tips

Make sure the field you want to go to is open on the day you’re there. Show openings are staggered, and some shows are open only for a day.

THE STYLIST KELLY M CGUILL

PRINCIPAL, KELLY MC GUILL HOME, WALPOLE, MASS.

Often the same dealers come back to the same spots each year. Main Street has some of the best dealers, from vintage furnishings to antique African art. It lures you in and gives your heart those pangs of excitement.

Recommended Fields

J&J for architectural garden elements and sports memorabilia.

Strategy

Take each field one at a time. There are so many diamonds in the rough; one field might seem as though it has nothing of interest, and then all of a sudden you come across an amazing booth with fabulous finds.

Tips

May is the best time to find that perfect something; it’s rife with amazing new pieces. Be kind to the dealers and they’ll reward you.

JILL

Brimfield is an awesome place. You spend money on this stuff, but it holds its value.

Recommended Fields

Mahogany Ridge, Quaker Acres, and The Meadows for vintage kitchen and decorating items.

Strategy

I usually come looking for something specific: wooden boxes, bar items, or something food-related.

Tips

The nicer the tent, the less likely the deal. But in September [the last show of the year] you can get some really good deals. (see “Profile of a Buyer,” opposite)

MICHELLE CARTER

Recommended Fields

Quaker Acres for shabby-chic; Central Park for Maine camp–style vintage.

Strategy

I go only on opening day, when a majority of “pay” fields aren’t open. For those of us who go every year and to every show, we know who has what, and what we’re looking for.

Tips

I do know that the shabby-chic stuff tends to be at Quaker Acres, but, honestly, I find that in the free fields it really is a good mix.

I’ve seen whole antique airplanes and some amazing repurposed auto parts. Lindsey [my daughter and business partner] and I bought big chunks of broken kiln glass last year— gorgeous aqua pieces. They hammered it into pieces and sold it by the pound.

Recommended Fields

New England Motel for vintage French textiles; The Meadows for industrial.

Strategy

Paying to park in the large fields behind Shelton’s is worth the $10; it’s the most accessible for bringing things back to the car.

Tips

Bring cash—it’s better to haggle with. Always haggle—vendors expect it.

THE DEALER

THE CELEBRITY CHEF

STEVE ‘NOOKIE’ POSTAL

CHEF/OWNER, COMMONWEALTH, CAMBRIDGE, MASS.

THE AWARD-WINNING INTERIOR DESIGNER

GOLDBERG

OWNER, HUDSON INTERIOR DESIGNS, BOSTON, MASS.

THE ANTIQUES & HOME DÉCOR SHOP OWNER

INGATHER AT BOWERBIRD, PETERBOROUGH, N.H.

JOEL LAINO (SUSAN); JOEL BENJAMIN (KELLY); SEBASTIEN ROUMEAU (NOOKIE); ERIC ROTH (JILL)

PROFILE OF A BUYER

CHEF/RESTAURATEUR NOOKIE POSTAL

A chef knows his tools. And Steve “Nookie” Postal comes to Brimfield fully equipped, sporting a backpack and toting a cart on wheels. His Cambridge, Massachusetts, restaurant, Commonwealth, opened in November 2013, and he outfitted the rooms with Brimfield finds and family heirlooms, including his great-grandmother’s enamel stove from the 1900s. “Everything is reclaimed, repurposed,” he says. “We’re right in Kendall Square, the heart of biotech, super-modern. Lots of metal, glass, cold—I wanted to get away from all that.”

Today he’s looking for a nice vintage ice bin. Or anything printed with the word Cambridge or Commonwealth As we troll through the fields, his banter strikes the perfect tone, a born bargainer. “I like negotiating,” he says. “It’s my favorite.” At Shelton’s Field, he finds a cluster of Patriots glasses: $3 each. “The customers will love them,” he grins. “Would you do 10 for $20?” And the dealer does. He recalls a Cambridge soda box that he passed on one year: “The guy wouldn’t go lower than $15; I wouldn’t go higher than $10. I still regret it.” The lesson here: If you love it, buy it or lose it.

He scores some Smurf merchandise for his three kids (ages 7, 4, and 1) and is about to head back to Boston to gear up for the evening meal when he spots a green metal box the size of a sink, on legs, in The Meadows. It came from the Bulova watch factory in Connecticut, says exhibitor Amy Shebell-Lapointe (Booths #83, 84). The box, complete with a scary-looking motor, was once used to dry sawdust. “I clearly don’t need a sawdust box,” Nookie says, but he’s intrigued. She’s asking $125; he offers $80. “How about $90?” she says. It’s a deal. Nookie mentions that he’ll probably use it as a beer cooler. That’s what Amy was thinking of, too. “Killer,” she says. Her parting words: “I’m glad you love it like I did.”

Models on Display

FEATURED BRIMFIELD BOOTHS

» JUSTIN POMERLEAU & EMILY SAWICH (Viant Vintage)

QUAKER ACRES BOOTH #119

Wit and verve characterize this next generation of Brimfielders, a group of talented young friends in their twenties who’ve gathered under the banner “The Traveling Spectacular.” Justin and Emily, the new kids on the Brimfield block, first set up in 2013. This year they’ve expanded “and invited friends to vend with us,” Emily says. All together, they bring energy and an eclectic assortment of vintage clothing and memorabilia that draws clusters of people to their booth. “I like that Brown’s Beach Jacket action,” one was overheard commenting as he flipped through the clothing rack.

» SUSAN BATES

QUAKER ACRES

BOOTH #69

Susan Bates calls her booth “an oasis, a little touch of beauty.” A steady stream of people drop by to say hi on Brimfield’s opening day; with her little dog, Teddy, curled up on a stuffed sofa under the tent canopy, it’s like being in someone’s outdoor living room. “I have regulars who make this worthwhile,” she smiles. Last year, her cottage-type furniture, pretty plants, and stenciled boxes attracted a group of buyers for Ralph Lauren, who came by her booth twice. “I’ve sold to them before,” she says. “It made me very happy, very affirming, as I chose a soft palette of silver, green, purple, and burgundy for my summer containers.” On a scorching summer afternoon, it was a shady respite indeed.

FEATURED BRIMFIELD BOOTHS

» JON MAGOUN (Magoun Brothers) MIDWAY

ROUTE 20

(OPPOSITE NEW ENGLAND MOTEL FOOD COURT)

“You can’t ever predict how the day’s going to be,” says Jon Magoun, a 30-year Brimfield veteran, whose card reads Ferocious Buyers & Sellers of Adirondack Boats. Behind him, vintage canoes and boats lie beached on green grass. “A few years ago we had four rainy days in a row,” he recalls. “Tommy Hilfiger comes through; we’re like drowned rats. He says, ‘I’ll take this side [of a double rack of canoes].’ A woman standing nearby gets nervous, and she says, ‘I’ll take this one.’ And then another woman comes along—I sold 10 canoes just like that.” Jon shakes his head: “In 20 minutes [the Hilfiger team] spent $23,000.”

Jon’s booth is located front-and-center on Route 20. “That’s a Chestnut Canoe from the mid-’40s,” he notes as he points to a pretty little boat with its sail raised. “I bought it in West Bath, Maine, the other day.” Has he taken it out? “I like to canoe, but I never have enough time,” he says ruefully.

» WALTER M. FURPAHS

THE MEADOWS

BOOTH #216

If The Meadows is characterized by a hefty assortment of office, workshop, and factory furnishings and paraphernalia, then Walter Furpahs’ sprawling tents and king-size displays of reclaimed materials are the poster children for the industrial-décor movement. You’ll feel like Alice in this outsized world of giant urns, metal cabinets, reclaimed coffee tables, and massive mill carts, offset with a sizable collection of midcentury-modern lamps.

FEATURED BRIMFIELD BOOTHS

» JOHN & CAROL McINNIS

HERTAN’S

BOOTH #189

(SEPTEMBER BOOTHS #206–207)

Mounds of Eastern European linens are stacked alongside 19th-century country-home items, a dreamy bazaar from another time. Traveling from Cobourg, Ontario, east of Toronto, John and Carol McInnis have set up at Brimfield for a decade, building a reputation for fine linens. They return to Eastern Europe four or five times a year to replenish their stock.

“We’re constantly looking for new sources,” John says. The McInnises have dealt in antiques for 41 years— typically 18th- and 19thcentury formal furniture— but for Brimfield they focus on country items. “Ten years ago, when we first brought linens to Canada, there wasn’t an enthusiastic market for them,” John recalls. “But here at Brimfield, it seemed as though every other person who stopped at the booth was asking, ‘How much?’ We follow the market as it evolves, but if you were to ask me for a used car battery from Eastern Europe, I’d bring you that, too.”

» LOTHAR GREINER (German Favorite Antiques)

THE MEADOWS

BOOTHS #92–100

Lothar Greiner surveys the stacks of beer-garden tables from Munich spread out beyond his tent. The only things missing from the inviting scenario are trays of foaming beer steins. This former D.C. resident has just moved back to Wiesbaden, Germany, all the better to fill the 40-foot containers of inventory he ships over each year, some of it destined for Brimfield. “Stuff flies out,” he grins. His Irish friends are in the adjoining tent behind his—establishing a mini-European Union in central Massachusetts.

Farmhouse Pottery

A creative couple handcrafts agrarian-inspired products in a stylish Vermont space.

BY CHRISTIE MATHESON

HENDRICKSON

very piece on display at the Farmhouse Pottery store—the ceramic bowls dipped in milkywhite glaze, the satiny maple rolling pins, the stoneware pitchers carved to resemble roughhewn beams—looks like Vermont. A streamlined, art-directed vision of Vermont, yes, but also organic and austere in the way of birch trees, church steeples, and old barns.

Farmhouse Pottery’s retail store and workshop opened in Woodstock just last summer. But owners Zoe and James Zilian have been designing and crafting products together for more than a decade.

Five years ago, while James was working as the design director for Vermont glassmaker Simon Pearce, Zoe began making a line of candles with scents like “birch,” “pine,” and “maple,” and selling them at shows and fairs, calling on skills she’d learned in earlier sales and marketing jobs. Then to her own products she added a line of maple syrups and Maine sea salts, plus garden accessories and wood pieces. When James agreed to add his pottery— hand-dipped in a glaze called “organic milk”—it quickly became the heart of the brand.

Farmhouse Pottery bowls, pitchers, tumblers, and crocks are finished in a uniformly neutral milky glaze, letting the handmade quirks of each piece shine.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY COREY

Use your smartphone to scan for a video tour of Farmhouse Pottery.

“We use Old World techniques,” James says. “It’s all wheel-thrown. This is one of the few handmade-pottery places of this scale in the country.”

Made in Vermont

Zoe and James met in Maine and always knew they would settle in northern New England. “We love Vermont—the farmers’ markets, the weathered barns, the mountains,” James says. “We were interested in

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slowing down and living in a lessis-more way. We have kids running around, and we’re making beautiful things by hand. People can’t believe we get to do this.”

Workspace

After outgrowing the basement of the Zilians’ Woodstock home, the business spread to other rooms and then “took over half our garage,” James says. They moved the business into a former Bible bindery on the west side of town and carved out an inviting retail space, design studio, and workshop with three potter’s wheels and three kilns. Today, visitors can see into the windows of the workshop from the store—or go right in and talk to the potters. There’s

“We love Vermont— the farmers’ markets, the weathered barns, the mountains … We’re both from New England, and we’re inspired by the values and aesthetic of this place.”

even a table for kids who want to play with clay. In back, Zoe says, “we have an espresso maker, beer on tap, and a wine fridge—so everyone stays happy.” As the couple’s business grows, they’re gradually taking over more of the large building.

Workday

“Running the retail store is a whole new dynamic that we’re just learning,” Zoe says. She’s the jack-of-all-trades, running the store, coordinating the potters, organizing orders, managing social media, answering phones, and loading the kilns—along with working on her designs. For James, it’s about his hands. “I spend about twothirds of my day making things,” he says. “I love making pots and practicing my craft. When I put my apron on, it’s the most exciting thing.”

Inspirations

“We’re both from New England, and we’re inspired by the values and aesthetic of this place,” James says. He hails from Portsmouth, Rhode Island. Zoe is from Camden, Maine. “My hometown is a huge part of who I am,” she says. “It’s where the idea came from for our Arcadian canvas collection,” a line of table linens, bags, and accessories. And chances are, the couple will be returning to open more stores in (or near) their hometowns. “We’ll pop them up in places where we’d want to live,” James says. “Places where people go to relax and get away from the fast pace of their lives.”

FARMHOUSE POTTERY

1837 West Woodstock Road (U.S. Route 4), Woodstock, VT. 802-774-8373; farmhousepottery.com

FROM TOP : James Zilian spends more than half of his time at the wheel alongside his fellow potters in the workshop; James and Zoe take a quick break from designing, crafting, and selling their Vermont-made wares.

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The GUIDE FOOD

Muffins, Sweet and Savory

One of the easiest, fastest breads for the home cook to make is also one of the most popular.

by Molly Shuster

PHOTOGRAPHS BY

MELISSA DiPALMA

FOOD AND PROP STYLING BY MOLLY SHUSTER

Some experts attribute it to the 10th-century Welsh; others believe it comes from the German muffen , the plural of muffe, meaning “small cake.” The French point to the term moufflet, which refers to the soft texture of bread. Meanwhile, the British writer Hannah Glasse included a “muffin” recipe in her 1747 cookbook, The Art of Cookery. In all likelihood, muffins themselves evolved separately in different places as small, sweet cakes, and the names merged as cooking traditions cross-pollinated the Continent.

We do know that it was traditional in Victorian England for muffins to be sold house to house from street carts. The vendors, or “muffin men,” rang bells heralding their arrival, enticing folks nearby to purchase their freshly baked goods. Although this tradition has long since faded, it lives on in the beloved children’s song “Oh, Do You Know the Muffin Man? ”

We also know that muffin recipes and baking techniques have naturally evolved. Original European recipes describe a small bread leavened with yeast, but as time passed, cooks began to replace yeast with chemical leaveners, whipping up easy batters instead of doughs. This transition has, no doubt, contributed to muffins’ ubiquity in home and commercial kitchens in the U.S. (Five states have even gone so far as to name an official state muffin: blueberry in Minnesota and Virginia, apple in New York, coconut in Hawaii, and corn in Massachusetts.) The muffin tin gives these treats their trademark shape of a smaller base and burgeoning, browned top. Inside, the cake remains soft and moist with a tender crumb.

But yeast varieties haven’t entirely disappeared, and in fact are quite popular on these shores. Despite their moniker, “English” muffins were invented right here in the United States; Samuel Bath Thomas, a British immigrant, created those famous “nooks and crannies” in his New York City bakery. First sold in 1880, the English muffin has stood the test of time. Its British counterpart, the crumpet, a dense, hole-ridden griddle cake, is more popular in the U.K. but can also be found in markets around the U.S.

Whether you’re fond of the yeast variety or sweet American-style cake muffins, these simple treats are a great way to brighten a morning. They’re also one of the easiest, fastest breads to make at home. Try our recipes, with flavors that run from hearty bran–carrot nut muffins to blueberry–oat with streusel topping, from savory bacon–scallion corn muffins to the classic British crumpet. Get more great recipes at: Pinterest.com/YankeeMagazine

2 teaspoons poppy seeds

2 teaspoons sesame seeds

Preheat your oven to 400° and set a rack to the middle position. Line the cups of a standard 12-cup muffin pan with paper liners or grease them lightly with butter.

Using a standing or handheld mixer, cream the butter and brown sugar in a large bowl until light and fluffy. Beat the eggs into the butter mixture one at a time, beating well after each addition. Add the vanilla and stir to combine.

In a separate large bowl, whisk together the all-purpose flour, bran, whole-wheat flour, baking powder, cinnamon, and salt.

Add one-third of the flour mixture to the butter mixture and beat until smooth. Add half of the buttermilk, mixing gently until combined. Add another third of the flour mixture and beat until smooth. Add the remaining half of the buttermilk and mix gently. Finish by adding the remaining third of the flour mixture. Then stir in the carrots, raisins, and walnuts until just mixed through. Divide the batter evenly among the muffin cups.

Now make the topping, if desired: Stir the finely chopped walnuts together with the poppy and sesame seeds. Sprinkle the topping over the batter in each cup.

BRAN–CARROT NUT MUFFINS

TOTAL TIME : 50 MINUTES ;

HANDS- ON TIME : 25 MINUTES

These little cakes are enriched with whole grains and sweet carrots and raisins, but have a lighter texture than the bran muffins you may have tried in the past.

FOR THE BATTER:

2 sticks unsalted butter, at room temperature, plus more for pan

1 cup light-brown sugar

2 large eggs

1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour

1 1/4 cups coarse wheat bran

2/3 cup whole-wheat flour

1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon baking powder

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon table salt

1 cup buttermilk, divided

1 1/4 cups grated carrots (from about 3 large carrots)

1/3 cup golden raisins

1/3 cup chopped walnuts

FOR THE NUTTY TOPPING (OPTIONAL):

1 1/2 tablespoons very finely chopped walnuts

Bake until muffins are set and lightly golden at the edges, 25 to 30 minutes. Let them cool slightly before unmolding. Yield: 12 muffins

BLUEBERRY–OAT MUFFINS

TOTAL TIME : 50 MINUTES ; HANDS- ON TIME : 25 MINUTES

What can improve on a classic blueberry muffin? A little heft from rolled oats and a decadent streusel topping.

FOR THE STREUSEL TOPPING:

3 tablespoons salted butter, melted, plus more for pan

1/

cup all-purpose flour

cup rolled oats

As with many matters of culinary history, the origin of the word muffin is up for debate.

CRUMPETS (recipe on p. 58)

BACON–SCALLION CORN MUFFINS (recipe on p. 58)

RASPBERRY–PEACH MUFFINS (recipe on p. 58)

BRAN–CARROT NUT MUFFINS (recipe opposite)

1/4 firmly packed light-brown sugar

1/4 teaspoon table salt

FOR THE BATTER:

2 cups all-purpose flour

1/3 cup rolled oats

1 tablespoon baking powder

1/4 teaspoon table salt

6 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted and cooled

3/4 cup whole or 2% milk

1/3 cup granulated sugar

1/3 cup firmly packed light-brown sugar

1 large egg

3/4 teaspoon vanilla extract

1 pint (12 to 14 ounces) blueberries

Preheat your oven to 375° and set a rack to the middle position. Line the cups of a standard 12-cup muffin pan with paper liners or grease them lightly with butter.

First, make the streusel: In a small bowl, use a fork to combine the melted butter, flour, oats, brown sugar, and salt until crumbly. Set aside.

Now make the batter: In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, oats, baking powder, and salt. In a separate bowl, whisk together the melted butter, milk, sugars, egg, and vanilla.

Pour the wet ingredients into the dry ingredients, and stir, just until combined. Gently fold in the blueberries. Divide the batter evenly among the prepared muffin cups. Sprinkle the streusel topping evenly over each.Bake until the top is crisp and lightly golden, about 25 minutes. Let cool slightly before unmolding. Yield: 12 muffins

RASPBERRY–PEACH

MUFFINS

TOTAL TIME : ABOUT 45 MINUTES ;

HANDS- ON TIME : ABOUT 20 MINUTES

Berries, peaches, and citrus lend a fruity freshness to this recipe, while sour cream gives richness and a little zing to these tender corn muffins.

2 cups all-purpose flour

1 cup cornmeal

1/2 cup granulated sugar

1/2 cup firmly packed light-brown sugar

1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon baking powder

1/2 teaspoon table salt

12 tablespoons (1 1/2 sticks) unsalted butter, melted and cooled, plus more for pan

3/4 cup whole or 2% milk

1/4 cup sour cream

2 large eggs

Zest and juice from 1 lemon

Zest from 1/2 orange

6 ounces raspberries

3/4 cup frozen sliced peaches, thawed and cut into 1/2 -inch pieces

Demerara sugar, for sprinkling (optional)

Preheat your oven to 400° and set a rack to the middle position. Line the cups of a standard 12-cup muffin pan with paper liners or grease them lightly with butter.

In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, cornmeal, sugars, baking powder, and salt. In a medium-size bowl, whisk together the butter, milk, sour cream, eggs, lemon zest, lemon juice, and orange zest.

Pour the wet ingredients into the dry ingredients, and stir, just until combined. Gently fold in the raspberries and peaches until mixed throughout.

Divide the batter evenly among the prepared muffin cups and sprinkle with demerara sugar, if using. Bake until lightly golden, about 25 minutes. Let cool slightly before unmolding.

Yield: 12 muffins

BACON–SCALLION

CORN MUFFINS

TOTAL TIME : 55 MINUTES ; HANDS- ON TIME : 30 MINUTES

Who says muffins have to be sweet? Inspired by the savory scones that have become ubiquitous in bakeries and cafés, we created these hearty corn muffins studded with little bits of bacon and green onion. Serve alone or with eggs, soup, or salad.

5 strips bacon, cut crosswise into 1/2 -inch pieces

1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour

1 1/2 cups cornmeal

1/3 cup granulated sugar

1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon baking powder

3/4 teaspoon table salt

1 1/3 cups buttermilk

1 stick unsalted butter, melted and cooled, plus more for pan

2 large eggs

3 scallions, green parts only, thinly sliced crosswise

Preheat your oven to 375° and set a rack to the middle position. Line the cups of a standard 12-cup muffin pan with paper liners or grease them lightly with butter.

In a large skillet over medium heat, cook the bacon, stirring, until crisp. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to paper towels and discard the drippings.

In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, cornmeal, sugar, baking powder, and salt. In a medium-size bowl, whisk together the buttermilk, butter, and eggs. Pour the wet ingredients into the dry ingredients and stir to combine. Fold in the scallions and reserved bacon. Divide the batter evenly among the prepared muffin cups. Bake until lightly golden, about 25 minutes. Let cool slightly before unmolding.

Yield: 12 muffins

CRUMPETS

TOTAL TIME : ABOUT 2 HOURS 45 MINUTES ; HANDS- ON TIME : 40 MINUTES

With a little advance planning to let the dough rise, crumpets are as easy to make as pancakes, but they’ll elevate any brunch menu or turn a simple Sunday morning into a celebration.

Note: You can use English-muffin or crumpet rings (metal rounds 3 to 4 inches in diameter) for this recipe. A large metal biscuit cutter also works well.

2 1/4- ounce packets active dry yeast

1 3/4 cups plus 2 tablespoons warm water, divided

1 cup whole or 2% milk, lightly warmed

3 1/3 cups all-purpose flour

3 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted and cooled, plus more for greasing pan and rings

(see “Note,” opposite, bottom)

1 teaspoon granulated sugar

1 teaspoon table salt

1 teaspoon baking powder

1 teaspoon baking soda

Sprinkle the yeast over ¼ cup warm water. Let stand until foamy, about 5 minutes.

Add 1½ cups of warm water and 1 cup of warm milk to the yeast mixture. Add the flour, butter, sugar, and salt, and beat 5 minutes. Cover with a clean kitchen towel and let rise in a warm place until doubled in size, about 1 hour. The mixture should be very bubbly.

Dissolve the baking powder and baking soda in the remaining 2 tablespoons of warm water. Stir into the crumpet batter and mix until combined. Cover and let sit 20 minutes.

Heat a large griddle or cast-iron pan over medium-low heat. Grease the pan and rings lightly with butter. Pour a scant ½ cup of batter into each ring. Turn the heat to low and cook until holes have formed and the top is dry, about 10 minutes.

Unmold (use an offset spatula to run around the edge of the ring, if needed) and flip to the other side. Cook until lightly golden, about 1 minute. Transfer to a cooling rack. Repeat with the remaining batter.

Serve warm or toasted with plenty of butter. Yield: 15 crumpets

Molly Shuster is a food stylist, writer, and recipe developer in Boston and New York. mollyshuster.com

Black-Eyed Susan’s

PHOTOGRAPHS BY BOB PACKERT

Nantucket locals and tourists agree: If you can get a seat at this island hotspot, the beach can wait.

BY AMY TRAVERSO

icture a diner—let’s say in Laconia or Worcester or Bangor. It’s small and, despite the florescent lights and chrome and Formica, cozy. Maybe it’s the smells that make it cozy, or the familiarity. There are eggs and hashbrowns on the griddle and servers juggling plates. Customers are unfussy, hunched over stoneware mugs of coffee, wearing flannel, jeans, beards. This is the archetypal diner, but it’s a real place you’ll find in towns from Stamford, Connecticut, to Irasburg, Vermont.

Now consider Black-Eyed Susan’s in Nantucket’s busy cobblestone district, which, for many summer visitors, constitutes the closest thing to a diner. (The Downeyflake, located mid-island, is diner-esque in spirit, but café-like in layout.) There are eggs and hashbrowns on the griddle, and framing the grill is a long counter where customers sit on chrome pedestal stools. They, too, are hunched over mugs of coffee and unfussy in their own way. But here in the land of the One Percenters, that means gingham instead of flannel, crisp denim shorts precisely cuffed, and two-day beards. An actress-pretty blonde at a table near the opposite wall isn’t wearing makeup, but she keeps her big black sunglasses on, despite the dim light. Men are scruffier in the island uniform of Nantucket Red shorts

and old regatta T-shirts. Here, donning the costume seems to be the way movers and shakers downshift into island mode.

The restaurant is closed for lunch— without air conditioning, it’s too hot midday—but at dinner, it morphs into a bistro serving upscale dishes such as linguini with local quahogs ($18 for a half portion) and “Swordfish au Poivre on French Green Lentils, Roasted Field Tomato, Garlic & Pistachio Romesco Sauce, Maitre d’hotel Butter, Chervil” ($27). Owners Susan Handy and Jack Worster also own the beloved French restaurant Chanticleer over in ’Sconset, and Worster has serious chops to exercise, even at this little lunch counter.

So Black-Eyed Susan’s is a diner and it isn’t. Instead of chrome lights, there are amethyst cut-glass chandeliers. But in the morning, we’ll brave the line (or get up early) to dig into a breakfast of eggy Pennsylvania Dutch–style pancakes with Jarlsberg cheese and real maple syrup. Or the thick-cut French toast made with Worster’s own sourdough. Or huevos rancheros under a pool of creamy just-hot-enough chile sauce. On warm summer mornings, the heat from the grill can blast customers away from the counter stools, but it’s a great place to watch the action and chat with the staffers, who, like most seasonal workers here, hail from Jamaica, Eastern Europe, and Central America. They speak in Spanish and lilting English, juggling orders and egg pans. “How do you stand the heat?”

I ask one cook as he plates an egg scramble with linguiça. He smiles as he searches for the words. “Very,” he says.

Out in the alleyway between the restaurant and the art gallery next door, two lucky families are soaking up the shade at tables on the makeshift patio area. There’s a cool breeze and those pancakes, fresh off the griddle. Who cares how many houses the guy sitting next to you owns? Everyone gets a taste of the good life here.

More columns from this series at: YankeeMagazine.com/Flavor

Each month, we profile an iconic New England eatery in our “Local Flavor” column. We’re looking for venues with great stories that capture the spirit of a place. Got a favorite you’d like to share? E-mail editors@yankeepub.com and put “Local Flavor” in the subject heading.

OPPOSITE : Nantucket’s own cozy hometown eatery. THIS PAGE , FROM TOP : Black-Eyed Susan’s seasonal staffers hail from all four points of the compass; sizzling huevos rancheros; founder Susan Handy.

The Need for Needhams

Potatoes are the Maine ingredient in this favorite old-fashioned candy.

BY AIMEE SEAVEY

PHOTOGRAPHS BY MELISSA DiPALMA FOOD AND PROP STYLING BY AIMEE SEAVEY

n a state where the local wild blueberries make their way into awardwinning salsa and lobster is an ice-cream flavor, it’s fair to say that Mainers practice an enthusiastic interpretation of the idiom “swallow your pride.” Notwithstanding crustacean-infused dairy products, the most famous example of “local edible infusion” might be the state’s favorite candy, a darkchocolate-covered coconut-cream treat known as “needhams.” The Maine ingredient? Potato.

Supposedly named after a popular late-19thcentury evangelist preacher, needhams (sometimes called just “potato candy”) are a mystery to most Americans but a staple in Maine, where potato production, at one time the highest in the country, is still a way of life in Aroostook County. The mashed spuds add no detectable flavor but are as crucial to making “real” needhams (whether they help cut the sweetness of the sugar, as some claim, or not) as the cube of salt pork is to baked beans—it’s tradition.

Of course, not just any potatoes will do. Sue Hight of Sue’s Needhams, one of the state’s few commercial operations, says they’ve got to be from Maine. Like many, Hight grew up making needhams at Christmas, but in other seasons had a hard time finding them anywhere but the cases at fancy specialty shops—so she began making and selling them herself. Twentyfive years later, orders are still coming in from homesick Mainers all over the country.

“People always tell me they taste like what their grandmother made,” she says, “and that they bring back great memories.” Just goes to prove that what’s little known isn’t always least loved, and that as long as there are potatoes in Maine, there’s going to be a need for needhams.

For the best homemade needhams, be sure

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to start with warm (not hot) mashed potato for a smooth filling, and don’t be afraid to return the chocolate to the heat for a moment or two if it starts to cool and thicken while you’re still dipping the squares.

NEEDHAMS

TOTAL TIME : 2 HOURS 45 MINUTES ;

HANDS- ON TIME : 45 MINUTES

1 2-pound bag confectioners’ sugar

3/4 cup plain mashed potato, warm

1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, melted, plus more for pan

1 14-ounce bag sweetened flaked coconut

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

1/2 teaspoon table salt

4 ounces unsweetened chocolate

1 12-ounce bag semisweet chocolate chips

2 tablespoons vegetable shortening

Butter a rimmed 15½x10 ½-inch baking pan (we use a jellyroll pan) and set aside. (A 9x13-inch pan will also do, but the needhams will be thicker.) In a large bowl or the bowl of a standing mixer, add the sugar, potato, melted butter, coconut, vanilla, and salt. Mix on low speed (mixture will be very

dry at first) until a thick paste forms; then increase the speed for 30 seconds, or until all of the sugar is completely incorporated.

Transfer the mixture to the prepared pan, and press down evenly. Let the mixture set and firm up at room temperature, about 1 hour. Then cut into small, even squares.

Melt the chocolate and the chips in a double boiler until smooth; then remove from the heat and add the shortening, stirring vigorously until shiny. Now place one coconut/potato square onto the tines of a fork and lower into the chocolate until coated; lift it and let the excess chocolate drip back into the pot. Transfer the square to a sheet of parchment to harden, about 1 hour. Repeat with the remaining squares. Store in an airtight container for up to two days for best flavor and appearance. Y ield: about 60 pieces

The Beach That Saved the Cape

Cape Cod National Seashore protects miles of dunes, beach, and wild lands in the heart of one of the most popular summer destinations in the country. Today visitors can still find what Eugene O’Neill described in 1919: “A grand place to be alone and undisturbed.”

BY IAN ALDRICH

Photographs by Christopher Churchill

Coast Guard Beach in Eastham. In eliminating development along the Outer Cape, the Seashore’s creation opened up a tourist economy beyond anything even the park’s early proponents could have imagined. Today, more than 4.5 million people visit the Seashore each year.

The weathered dune shack

appeared like a beacon, rising out of the sand as though it had been waiting for me. Maybe it had. For the past 45 minutes I’d hiked under an intense July sun, through the sandy landscape in a southern section of the Province Lands, a barren, beautiful, 3,000-acre piece of Cape Cod National Seashore in Provincetown, Massachusetts. It had been a meandering journey, slow and uncertain as I traipsed around scrubby trees and wavy patches of dune grass, climbed and scampered down small hills of sand, all in an effort to make it to the sea. Along the way I didn’t see another soul, a welcome solitude.

For two days I’d navigated traffic and tourists: the throngs of fellow visitors on Provincetown’s Commercial Street; the afternoon jam of cars packing Route 6 in Wellfleet; the army of beach seekers at Marconi. “The Cape in summer,” a longtime Eastham resident told me, with the resignation of someone who’d given up hope that the pressure would ever ease. “You just have to learn to deal with it.”

But there was another Cape, he told me—one you could find if you were willing to trek off the touristed path. An empty beach, a quiet forest, an endless expanse of sand and weather-beaten shacks. You just had to look for it.

I was. Which is how on a weekday afternoon, I parked at the Snail Road access trail off Route 6 in Provincetown and began walking. I arrived without a plan or a map, venturing along a short path that cut through a thick forest, which eventually led me to the base of a large dune. I galloped up the sand to find a stretch just like it all around me, an expansive brown landscape that seemed like another galaxy away from Provincetown’s crowded center but in reality was only a few miles from the souvenir shops, bars, and restaurants.

“A grand place to be alone and undisturbed,” is how the playwright Eugene O’Neill described the Province Lands in 1919. The area became his muse. He bought a dune shack, hunkered down in the silence, and set out to write Anna Christie and The Hairy Ape, two of his most famous works. Other artists and writers soon followed and never stopped: Harry Kemp, known as the “poet of the dunes”; E.E. Cummings; Jack Kerouac; Mary Oliver; Jackson Pollock; Willem de Kooning; and, perhaps most important, Henry Beston, whose 1928 book, The Outermost House , brought attention to the sheer wild beauty among the sweeping dunes. They squatted on the unwanted sands or slept in the shacks, and mastered the light and the mood. It continues today.

The Seashore’s Province Lands area, which has been under government protection since 1714, has for more than a century attracted artists and writers for its seclusion, light, and mood. Early visitors squatted on the unwanted sands and built the simple dwellings that still dot the landscape. The dune shacks came under control of the National Park Service when the Seashore was created and were entered on the National Register of Historic Places in 2012.

The fact that it can is not some lucky accident. On August 7, 1961, President John F. Kennedy

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The Old Harbor Lifesaving Station in Chatham, built in 1897, served as headquarters for the U.S. Life Saving Service, later known as the Coast Guard. After the building came under ownership of the NPS, it was moved by barge to Provincetown, where today it operates as a museum.

Formation of the Seashore represented a new kind of park-building for the NPS, which allowed for homes built before September 1, 1959, to remain in private hands. The 200-acre Small family farm in North Truro was eventually donated to the Seashore.

formally concluded a debate that had roiled the Cape for nearly 30 years when he signed into law the creation of Cape Cod National Seashore. In the infancy of a development boom that still has not relented, the new park set aside what would become more than 43,600 acres of prime Outer Cape property for public use: beaches and dunes, freshwater ponds and forests, nearly 40 miles in all of untouched Atlantic coastline from Chatham to Provincetown. In an era when the summer vacation became an obsession, in a densely populated part of the country that was starved for public lands, the National Seashore opened nature up to the masses and invited visitors to experience a different kind of seaside: unpolished and undeveloped.

Did the Seashore make the Cape a tourist destination? Hardly. But it did transform it, maybe even saved it, by creating the opportunity for anyone on a beautiful summer day to strike out along a stretch of coastline and feel as though he has an entire chunk of oceanfront to himself.

The water has always been the Cape’s calling card. Fishing built towns like Truro and Provincetown, and then, over time, the ocean became more than just something to work. In the mid-19th century, Henry David Thoreau paid four visits to the Cape, traveling by rail to Sandwich, then by stagecoach to Orleans, before hoofing it to Provincetown. Like Eugene O’Neill more than a halfcentury later, he marveled at its solitude. “A man may stand there and put all of America behind him,” he wrote in Cape Cod , a collection of his pieces published in 1865, three years after his death.

By the late 1800s rail service was bringing wealthy Bostonians to the grand hotels that had sprung up near the Cape’s shores. But it was the automobile that would bring this coastal destination closer to Bostonians and New Yorkers. In 1901, a Centerville businessman named Charles Ayling followed a shoddy network of horse paths to complete the first car trip to Provincetown, and a decade later construction crews laid down the first paved roads. By 1936, a year after the Bourne and Sagamore bridges went up, more than 55,000 cars were crossing onto

the Cape on a typical Sunday in summer. From there it wasn’t hard to decipher the Cape’s future trajectory.

“Last summer, as most of us observed, Cape Cod was overrun by hordes of barbarians possessed of a dirty shirt and a two-dollar bill, and a disinclination to change either,” the Cape Cod Beacon, an early proponent of a seaside park, moaned in an editorial at the time.

But the National Park Service, too, had concerns. With the establishment of the big Western parks already behind it, the government had turned its focus to the East and the challenge of creating public lands in a more densely populated area of the country. Beaches became an obvious focus, and when a 1930s Park Service study revealed that only 6 percent of the coast was open to the general public, it moved to identify the areas that stood a chance of being incorporated into a National Seashore. The Outer Cape, located only a day’s drive from nearly a third of the nation’s population, was at the top of the list.

“It had a few things going for it,” says Bill Burke, the National Seashore’s cultural-resources program manager and park historian. “The land was still cheap—estimates were around $10 an acre—and it was still only lightly developed, with a 40-mile stretch of beach from Chatham to Provincetown.”

The very seeds of this conservation effort had been planted in 1928, with the publication of Henry Beston’s book, The Outermost House. A Boston native and frustrated writer, Beston had arrived at a little house he’d built on the sands of Eastham for a two-week vacation in September 1926. But then two weeks turned into a month, and a month into a year. “The beauty and mystery of this earth and outer sea possessed and held me that I could not go,” he wrote.

Stationed in his little house, which he called “Fo’castle,” Beston’s observations of the sea and the land revealed a shifting, delicate landscape, raw and untamed. This careful chronicling of migratory birds and plant life, storms and tides, was in stark contrast to the unnatural world that industrial life embraced, and his work awoke Cape Codders and outsiders alike to a landscape that needed protection. Massachusetts governor Endicott Peabody would later tell Beston, “Your book is one of the

Passage of the Seashore bill was propelled by President John F. Kennedy’s ( ABOVE , with First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy) Cape roots, as well as the inspiration he drew from Henry Beston, INSET BOTTOM , whose 1928 book, The Outermost House, BELOW, revealed a delicate, natural world that needed protection.

Cape Cod National Seashore opened nature up to the masses and invited

reasons that the Cape Cod National Seashore exists today.”

And yet, with the economy still reeling from the Depression and then the onset of World War II, talk of creating a National Seashore was shelved. It would take another two decades, a revamped postwar economy, and a young senator from Massachusetts with Cape ties for the idea to be revived.

In 1955, a first-term Senator Kennedy sponsored a bill that would largely serve as the framework for the Seashore legislation he would later sign as president. Like so many others with long ties to the Cape, Kennedy had seen the coastal retreat he’d grown up with become discovered, built up, more heavily populated. In 1920, the Cape boasted just under 27,000 residents. By 1950 that number had nearly doubled; in another 10 years it would double again. Tourists came, too—hundreds of thousands of them each year. All this new blood wanted what the Cape offered: its rural character, its unfettered access to the sea. But in coming, they changed the very thing they were seeking. They needed houses and hotel rooms, restaurants and shops, bigger roads and bigger amenities. “Land on the Cape is better than the stock market,” one Hyannis real-estate broker gushed. “It’s boomtown all over.”

Farther north, in Provincetown, Boston developer Van Ness Bates had his eye on the Province Lands, which had been under government protection since 1714, when colonial leaders, fearing the deforestation that had already decimated the Outer Cape’s woodlands, restricted tree cutting to keep the sands of its northern tip from blowing into the harbor. Now Ness wanted to pull 1,500 acres into the private sphere in order to execute his big ideas: a heliport, a triple-decker garage, houses, perhaps even a bridge from Provincetown to Plymouth.

“You could see the development rolling toward us like a cancer,” recalls Dana Eldridge, a Chatham native whose family lineage goes back to the Cape’s early European settlers. “Dennis, Harwich, these small little towns that didn’t have a chance to support all this development. Marshes were being filled in. People like my parents and myself saw that as a real detriment to the Cape as a whole.”

Eldridge, 82, is a retired teacher; he lives in Eastham in a house that overlooks a small body of water that flows out to the Atlantic. During the first few decades of his life, he witnessed the full arc of the Cape story. In the early 1900s his grandfather, a local storeowner, bought 600 acres of land on Monomoy Island, just off Chatham, for $10 to settle a

As public use of the Seashore takes many forms, so does work to protect the area. Today, Bill Burke, the Seashore’s culturalresources manager ( OPPOSITE, BOTTOM RIGHT ), and his team oversee 230 different sites, which have yielded more than half a million artifacts, from arrowheads to stone tools.

visitors to experience a different kind of seaside: unpolished and undeveloped.

The Seashore offers 11 self-guided nature trails within its borders, including a quarter-mile walk along Buttonbush Trail, which crosses through forest and offers different kinds of water views.

debt. By the time Eldridge was in his teens, his grandfather wanted nothing to do with the land.

“He’d tell me that he’d give it away if he could,” says Eldridge, who has worked as a guide at the Seashore for the past two decades. “He hated paying the taxes on it, as little as they were. Land was useless back then. We knew it was beautiful, but it wasn’t worth anything.”

And then it was.

The Marconi parking lot packs an assorted mix of cars: Beamers and Volvos, beat-up pickup trucks and minivans. The scene below, near the water, is much the same: young families and retired couples, single dads and teens, all of them here to be by the sea on a July afternoon. This beach, an unending stretch of sand and water located just a few miles from downtown Wellfleet, isn’t so much crowded as well-attended. Blankets, chairs, and umbrellas press to the water, but there’s real estate in between these carefully selected spots, room to breathe and move around.

And so many of the visitors do. A father throws a football to his young son, while a young couple keep a watchful eye on their toddler. A good 20 feet from them, two teenage boys have recruited their girlfriends to bury them up to their necks. Out in the water families jump the gentle waves that curl toward the others.

It’s a scene that illustrates the Seashore’s democracy. For a $15 vehicle pass or a $45 season ticket, anyone can have access to this pristine beach. Its blue Atlantic. Its long sands. Its commanding 40-foot-high bluffs. This isn’t a gated property, and you don’t need a trust fund to get access to it. It’s there for all of us—which is what its creators had in mind.

It’s an easy narrative to build the story of the Seashore’s creation around its two most prominent backers: Kennedy and his Massachusetts colleague from across the aisle, Senator Leverett Saltonstall. But that would overlook the groundwork that an army of local believers did to ensure its passage. In Provincetown the fight in the 1950s and ’60s to keep the Province Lands protected and to make it part of the proposed park was led by the painter Ross Moffett and his friend and biographer Josephine Del Deo.

At stake wasn’t just a piece of land but a very way of life. Like O’Neill decades before, the two had found inspiration in the landscape, pulling words and figures out of the barren sands and uninterrupted ocean views. Under Moffett’s leadership, they banded together with other artists and writers to form the Emergency Committee for the Preservation of the Province

Lands. There were long nights of meetings and letter writing, phone calls, and general lobbying of fellow residents to secure something that could never again be retrieved if it went under a bulldozer. “We would have lost the Cape, and we would have lost the town,” Del Deo told me.

She said this as I sat with her at a long dining table in the Provincetown home she shares with her husband, the painter Salvatore Del Deo. It’s a sprawling house, with big livingroom windows that open up to a forest of tall red oaks, and a décor that heavily reflects the couple’s passion for books and art.

The Provincetown that the Del Deos discovered when they first moved here in the early 1950s was one that was in the last throes of its old maritime identity. Fishing boats still stocked the harbor, while in town five cold-storage plants ran without rest. Intermixed with this hardworking community was a thriving artistic community that was captivated by the light and the water. The Del Deos became part of that population, and in between childrearing and community work, spent as much time as they could in a little dune shack they rented from a family friend. More than 50 years on, that little building is still a part of their life.

“As a writer there isn’t anything that equals solitude, and as a painter the landscape is so gorgeous, how could you do better?” said Josephine, who had recently completed The Watch at Peaked Hill, a memoir about her life and work in the Province Lands. “We’d go out there and feel this liberation from our civic responsibilities—having to answer the telephone, having to attend meetings. We could just go out and create. We didn’t have to worry about people bothering us, and for artists that’s a very big thing. The chance to do nothing but think about their art.”

Josephine, who’s short, with big green eyes and a preference for punctuating her words with her hands, still speaks with the kind of force and precision she used to push for passage of the park nearly six decades ago. At times, she slapped the table to hammer home her point.

“A lot of people hated the idea of the park because they knew goddamned well it would stop development,” she said. “And you had these developers come in and tell us that we really had to turn over a part of the Province Lands because there wasn’t enough room for the town to grow. ‘You have all

this space,’ they said. ‘You should build out there.’ Baloney. Who was going to benefit? The developers. The little guy on Brown Street wasn’t going to even smell that land.”

Down Cape it was much the same, as business owners warned of an economic Armageddon if the park went through, while conservative selectmen railed against the idea of turning even a single grain of sand over to the federal government. “Local feeling ran so strong against the plan,” the late Speaker of the House Thomas “Tip” O’Neill once recalled, “that [Congressman] Eddie [Boland] and I were booed out of Town Hall in Eastham and were hung in effigy in Truro.”

But Del Deo, Moffett, and others pushed on. At the Provincetown Town Meeting on March 13, 1961, voters came down on the side of handing over the Province Lands to the proposed park, 144 to 61. Four months later, President Kennedy used 27 different pens to sign the Seashore legislation and turn it into law.

As for Del Deo, a look of relief came over her face as she recounted the victory, as though she were experiencing the outcome for the first time. “When the Seashore went through, we were all so overjoyed,” Del Deo told me. “None more so than Ross. This wonderful man had sacrificed a great deal to do this.” She paused, then closed her eyes for a brief moment as she remembered her old friend.

“He was this great American painter, at the end of his life, who poured a few important years of his life into protecting this place. There were many heroes in this fight, but Ross Moffett made a major contribution.”

More than 50 years after it was created, the legacy of the Seashore is still being written. That’s because the strength of the park is that it is many things. It’s an expansive beach. It’s an empty plain of sand. It’s a bike path. It’s a trek through an oceanside forest. It’s a lighthouse tour. It’s an old military site. It has preserved the Outer Cape without locking it away. In fact, it has done quite the opposite: It has ensured the Cape’s survival by keeping its doors open and providing an up-close opportunity for visitors to find the same kind of beauty and wonder that first attracted Thoreau, O’Neill, and Beston.

Along the way it has transformed the Cape’s economy, but not in the manner its early opponents expected. In the summer

Key to the establishment of the Seashore was the hard work done by Provincetown artists to push for the inclusion of the Province Lands. The fight was led by writer Josephine Del Deo ( OPPOSITE , photographed inside her dune shack) and her close friend, the late painter Ross Moffett.

They were fighting to secure something that could never again be retrieved if it went under a bulldozer. “We would have lost the Cape and we would have lost the town.”

Scan the photo with your smartphone to listen to Del Deo reading from her upcoming memoir, The Watch at Peaked Hill.

of 1964, the second full season the Seashore was open, hundreds of thousands of visitors streamed through it each month. Today, it’s among the top 10 most visited national parks, with more than 4.5 million people trekking through it every year. It has filled restaurants and motels, crowded downtowns and roadways—adding nearly $187 million each year—all without destroying the untamed beauty that defines the Outer Cape.

That was more than apparent as I slowly moved closer to that Province Lands shack that I’d fixed my eyes on. A full afternoon sun was right on top of me as I worked along a rough trail, a flat stretch of sand that eventually crossed a narrow dunebuggy road. I scampered up a small hill and there it was, nestled into the earth as though it had fully accepted its fate: that one day it would be consumed by the sands. A mix of vegetation—small shrubs and unwieldy patches of

dune grass—framed the building, whose weathered door and beaten cedar shingles gave it an inviting appearance. A rusted lock kept the old door shut.

A good 20 yards in front of the shack were a table and two chairs, positioned perfectly to take in the view before it: a wide strip of sand and a softly rolling Atlantic. Not a single other person was in sight. I took a seat and settled into this moment, when it felt as though I had one of New England’s prized summer destinations all to myself.

It was the Cape in summer.

Editors’ note: Walkers and hikers who use the Province Lands should stay on established paths to avoid causing erosion. The National Park Service also suggests that visitors keep a respectful distance from the dune shacks so as not to disturb the occupants.

See more photos at: YankeeMagazine.com/CapeCod

GEORGE YATER/PROVINCETOWN ART ASSOCIATION AND MUSEUM ARCHIVES (MOFFETT)

ABOVE : Ross Moffett (center) with friends and fellow painters Edwin Dickinson (left) and Karl Knaths on the steps of the Provincetown Art Association. BELOW : The Seashore is more than a beach; its landscape includes forests, freshwater ponds, historic properties, and dunes.

Traveler’s Primer: Cape Cod National Seashore

With six swimming beaches, 20 (warmer) kettle ponds, a forest that invites exploration on foot or bike, scenic outlooks, lighthouses, dune-buggy tours, and ranger-led events, there’s plenty to do without leaving the National Seashore.

BEACHES

The Seashore’s 40-mile coastline encourages endless walking, sunbathing, and swimming. All six swimming beaches have showers, restrooms, changing rooms, and lifeguards in summer. Day parking fee is $15; season pass is $45. Call ahead (508-771-2144) or visit the website (nps.gov/ caco) to check for fee updates. Coast Guard Beach marks the beginning of what Thoreau called “the Great Beach.” Historians believe that this is where the crew of the Mayflower first spied land in 1620. The beach is wide, with sand dunes, marshland, and pounding waves. No parking in summer, but free transportation is provided via a shuttle bus at the Little Creek parking area in Eastham; it runs every 5 to 10 minutes. The beach is handicapped accessible and also rents out beach wheelchairs.

Nauset Light Beach is broad, with a beautiful view of the sea from the parking lot. (You might spot some seals, too.) A steep walk over a dune separates the lot from the beach. Nauset Light Beach and Marconi Beach have the biggest waves, great for surfing or boogie boarding.

Marconi Beach is wide, with an observation platform at the Marconi Station site. You get an overview of the Outer Cape, including both ocean and bay. Note that you’ll have to negotiate stairs to reach the sand.

Head of the Meadow Beach is often less crowded, but again, visitors must walk over a sand

dune. Although storms alter the sandbars every year, last year a sandbar near this beach attracted hundreds of seals.

Herring Cove Beach and Race Point Beach are considered among the finest on the East Coast. Race Point Beach, on the Cape’s outermost point, can sometimes have a strong undertow and is best for experienced swimmers. The Old Harbor Live Saving Station & Museum holds public demonstrations here. Herring Cove Beach faces the bay, with its calmer waves. It’s also handicapped-accessible and offers beach wheelchair rentals.

KETTLE PONDS

Kettle ponds formed when the ice sheets retreated around 18,000 years ago. They’re ideal for children and are usually around 10 degrees warmer than the ocean. Most are operated as town swimming beaches. Great Pond, Gull Pond, and Long Pond are the more popular bodies of water, set right off main roads. Visitors can also rent canoes, kayaks, or stand-up paddleboards to use here.

BIKING

Three bike trails wind through the National Seashore. Province Lands Bike Trail is a paved 5.5-mile scenic loop with views of open dunes, forest, and beach. Nauset Bike Trail’s 1.6-mile stretch ends at Coast Guard Beach and is peppered with views of salt marshes and forest. Head of the Meadow Trail is a 2-mile unpaved route that takes riders on a bumpier jaunt to Head of the Meadow Beach.

HIKING

There are 12 self-guided hiking trails through the National Seashore, ranging from 15-minute strolls to hour-plus walks, with one three- to five-hour hike for the most ambitious. Buttonbush Trail in Eastham is a 15-minute rope-guided hike that winds through forest and crosses over Buttonbush Pond, great for kids. The Nauset Marsh Trail loop takes about an hour and winds along the edge of saltwater ponds and Nauset Marsh. The 30-minute Pilgrim Spring Trail leads to a site representative of where Pilgrims are thought to have drunk their first fresh water in New England.

DRIVES

Ocean View Drive in Eastham hugs both sea and marsh, and leads to historic lighthouses. Many scenic outlooks offer cellphone interpretive programs, providing 24/7 access to some of the park’s most compelling stories and resources. Topics include the history of Fort Hill and information about seals and shipwrecks. The most adventurous Seashore drive lets you take the passenger seat on a scenic off-road excursion with Art’s Dune Tours, in business since 1946 (artsdunetours.org).

RANGER TIME

Park rangers lead programs through the Seashore’s two visitors’ centers, Salt Pond in Eastham (508-255-3421) and Province Lands in Provincetown (508-487-1256). Learn the basics of saltwater fishing, explore the tidal flats of Coast Guard Beach, take a canoeing lesson, do yoga on the beach, or join the rangers for a two- to four-hour cardiovascular-workout hike. You can go snorkeling or birdwatching, sit around a campfire on the beach, or take part in a scavenger hunt.

—compiled by Taylor Thomas

Nauset Light Beach in Eastham is a great vantage point for seal watchers.

Little Brewster Island, at the eastern side of the National Recreation Area, is home to Boston Light, established in 1716, the oldest continuously operating light station in the U.S. The current tower dates to 1783. The Park Service offers a three-hour narrated cruise and tour.

OPPOSITE , CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT : Massachusetts Conservation & Recreation ranger Corey Schiller kayaks between islands; a view of the Boston skyline from the harbor; day visitors disembark on Spectacle Island, which was reshaped using soil excavated during the city’s Big Dig.

FORGOTTEN ISLANDS

One of the best-kept secrets in the National Park system— ideal for walkers, paddlers, campers, and lovers of history and unexpected scenery—awaits just beyond the Boston skyline.

BY STEPHEN JERMANOK

PHOTOGRAPHS BY BRIAN WEDGE

NATIONAL TREASURES

x Boston Harbor Islands National Recreation Area

he summer morning was already hot by the time Captain John arrived at the Hingham docks in his small yellow boat. Couples, families, and a group of college students hauled their camping gear aboard the ferry, excited to spend a night or two in a peaceful setting, just a stone’s throw from urbanity. We passed large commuter ferries bringing their loads from the South Shore to the toils of work in downtown Boston, while we were headed in the opposite direction, toward Boston Harbor Islands National Recreation Area—to play, to breathe salty air, to relax our shoulders, and to smile, knowing that we’d made a wise choice.

Less than 15 minutes later, we arrived at Grape Island, our home for the day and night. A grassy trail led from rocky shores past vines of wild roses and sumac bushes to a handful of camping sites shaded by pines and tall birch trees. Unlike the other Boston Harbor Islands and their storied history of housing forts, hospitals, casinos, and barracks, 54-acre Grape has been used only for agriculture and thus retains a genuine wilderness feel. After putting up our tent, I took a short walk along a trail atop a knoll, which rewarded me with vistas of the harbor. Then I turned around … and I could almost touch the big buck and his massive rack. He looked at me, uninterested, and continued to feed on blueberries while I walked away, delighted with the unexpected encounter.

Boston Harbor has made a remarkable turnaround since the 1988 presidential race, when then–Vice President George Bush ran an ad that blamed Massachusetts governor Michael Dukakis for dumping “500 million gallons of barely treated sewage” into the water each day. Unfortunately, Bush’s assessment of conditions was correct. Ever since Europeans colonized the region in the early 1600s, residents had been dumping waste into the harbor. By 1988, a decades-old waste-treatment plant on Deer Island was still dumping millions of gallons of sewage, 25 percent of it untreated, into the water. The result was that most city beaches were closed for at least half the summer.

A federal court mandated that Boston clean up its harbor by 2000, funded by a multibillion-dollar public-works project. A state-of-the-art treatment facility was built on Deer Island, resulting in plummeting pollution levels and a restored, even replenished, ecosystem. Seals, porpoises, and fish returned in great numbers; beaches, staffed by lifeguards, are now open all summer. In November 1996, Congress passed legislation that made Boston’s watery front yard a part of the National Park system. Yet, unlike most national parks, the Boston Harbor Islands still feel underutilized. Each year only about 130,000 visitors arrive on their shores via ferries.

“Although not everyone in New England knows about the islands,

word is slowly catching on,” notes Jessica Renehan, park coordinator at the Massachusetts Department of Conservation & Recreation, Islands District. One of the major deterrents is accessibility. Only six of the 34 islands can now be reached by ferry. If you want to visit one of Renehan’s favorite islands, Calf, you’ll need your own boat. For folks who make the effort to sample one of the islands, however, it’s like turning over a rock to uncover a purple starfish: a surprising blend of Civil War–era forts, centuries-old lighthouses, drumlins, and rugged shoreline, guaranteed to entice the budding historian or those of us who yearn for a slice of solitude.

LEFT,

: A ranger holds of shard of sea glass found on Spectacle Island; a collection of “sea marbles,” bits of pottery and glass weathered by saltwater; a tranquil summer island vista as seen from the ferry as it heads back to Hingham. You can’t take your beachcombing finds home with you, but you’re welcome to leave them for display at the island visitors’ center.

“I’ve been living in the Boston area for 20 years and I’ve never been out here? Why?” says Arlington’s Chris Scypinski, echoing the thoughts of many. We’d just returned from an hour-long sea-kayaking jaunt led by Grape Island ranger Nick Ferry. He guided us across a short channel and then circumnavigated neighboring Slate Island, lined with seagrass and striated rock. Nick stopped to pick up an innocuous cup jellyfish, and, on the opposite shore, pointed out a common eider, the bird’s head crowned black like some superhero of the duck world.

We returned to our campsite to dine on curried chicken salad and coleslaw, then wandered over to the back of the island to light a bonfire on the beach and watch the sun set over the Boston skyline. As waves rolled ashore and the splintering of kindling could be heard and seen down the shoreline, the Prudential Building was bathed in a reddishpink glow. The setting was surreal: so close to the pulse of the city, yet adrift on an island, roasting marshmallows.

That night, I slept peacefully in the cooler air, listening to the sound of foghorns moaning in the distance. I awoke to seagulls squawking and the sun rising over Slate Island, as the first lobster-

x A Look Back Long Island

A classroom at the turn of the 20th century. Over the years, the island saw many uses: It was the site of a conscript camp during the Civil War; later, resort and fishing communities were established on the island. An almshouse, a hospital, and a nursing school also once functioned here. Most recently it was home to various city social services; today there is no longer any access to the island, as the bridge has been dismantled.

x Getting There

x Ferries operate from May to October from Long Wharf North in Boston and in July and August from Hingham Shipyard in Hingham and Pemberton Point in Hull. Inter island ferries connect Georges and Spectacle to Grape, Bumpkin, Peddocks, and Lovells.

x Boston Light is open for ranger-led tours from late June to October. For schedules and fares: 617-2238666; BostonHarborIslands.org

x Rangers lead tours on eight of the islands: Bumpkin, Georges, Grape, Little Brewster, Lovells, Peddocks, Spectacle, Thompson.

x Camping is allowed on Grape, Peddocks, Lovells, and Bumpkin. Only Peddocks has fresh water and electricity. Book your site: 866422-6762; reserveamerica.com

x Download a printable page-size PDF of the map at left: nps.gov/ hfc/carto/PDF/BOHAmap1.pdf

The setting was surreal: so close to the pulse of the city, yet adrift on an island, roasting marshmallows.

The Boston Harbor Islands are a blend of Civil War–era forts, centuries-old lighthouses, drumlins, and rugged shoreline, guaranteed to entice the budding historian or those of us who yearn for a slice of solitude.

x A Look Back Peddocks Island

This 1944 aerial view shows Fort Andrews, active in harbor defense from 1904 through the end of World War II. Several structures remain, including a gym, a firehouse, stables, a POW barracks, and more, though today most are closed to the public.

In this pre–World War II shot by Boston Herald Traveler photographer Leslie Jones, soldiers at Battery Frank Whitman are gathered around the facility’s 12-inch mortars. The fortification was named for a Kansas army major who had served in the Spanish–American War.

Peddocks boasts the longest shoreline of all the Boston Harbor Islands. The land had been farmed since the 17th century and then served as a military outpost. Hiking trails take visitors past a marsh, a pond, and coastal forests. There’s also a small private-cottage colony during the summer. RIGHT, FROM TOP : Peddocks is one of four islands where overnight camping is permitted; each of the island’s yurts is furnished with bunkbeds (bring pillows and sleeping bags), a table with benches, lighting, and an electrical outlet.

men headed out into the harbor’s calm waters. I looked up to see the morning flights leaving Logan Airport and sat on a grassy patch under a weeping willow; judging from its expansive web of branches, I figured it must have been rooting here since the Wright brothers’ first flight. After a sumptuous breakfast of homemade banana bread and fresh peaches, we cleared our campsite and waited for Captain John to pick us up again.

Another bright, sunny day ideally suited for exploring four additional Boston Harbor Islands. First stop was Bumpkin, where some of the trails were paved,

a result of a children’s hospital that once stood here at the turn of last century. During World War I, 56 additional buildings were erected on the island to house some 1,300 sailors. You can see the crumbling remains of the buildings, along with a stone farmhouse that was built in the latter part of the 19th century. Most of the drumlin is now overgrown with regenerated forest, with yellow warblers escorting us around the island to a barrier beach extending almost to the mainland.

More than twice the size of Bumpkin, Peddocks Island was once home to Fort Andrews, a World Wars I and II training facility. You can walk around the numerous boarded-up barracks, play a game of croquet on the parade ground, or take a stroll high above the East Head cliffs to look down at “the Gut,” a nasty current between the island and the town of Hull that wreaks havoc on sea kayakers who try to paddle across.

Spectacle and Georges islands are the two main hubs of the Boston Harbor Islands. Spectacle had its heyday in the 1840s as a casino and upscale resort. In 1857, the property was closed when police discovered a brothel on the island. In the 20th century, Spectacle was simply a dumping ground for Boston’s garbage. It would have remained an eyesore if it hadn’t been for the shrewd idea to take the 6.3 million tons of excavated dirt unearthed during Boston’s Big Dig and use it to reshape the island, providing topsoil for more than 2,400 trees. Now Spectacle boasts the highest point on the Eastern Seaboard south of Maine and more than five miles of trails that lead walkers down to the beach.

Georges Island, our final stop, has an equally alluring history. Construction of Fort Warren was started in 1833 to defend the United States against a possible invasion. However, it wasn’t until the Civil War that Georges gained

notoriety as a training ground for Union troops and the site of a prison camp for more than 2,000 Confederate soldiers; the vice president of the Confederacy, Alexander Stephens, was also interned here. We arrived on its shores to find a relatively new Visitors’ Center adjacent to an outdoor patio eatery serving clam chowder, lobster rolls, burgers, and other casual fare from Boston’s beloved Summer Shack restaurant.

We were met by former ranger Jerry McCor mack, dressed in the garb of a Union army sergeant, about to lead a small group on a guided tour of the fort. McCormack’s father was foreman on this island for 26 years, so he has fond memories of growing up here. “Every year on Halloween, we held a haunted house, where my role was to crawl into the large bread ovens,” McCormack says with a laugh. “Then they’d pull me out wincing and screaming and say, ‘Nope, he’s not done yet!’”

To enter this impregnable defense system, you walk across a moat on a drawbridge and slip through an iron gate leading to a parade ground more than two football fields long. All of the hand-cut granite and brickwork is original. High-ranking Confederate officers were housed in spacious cells, each equipped with a chandelier, a fireplace, and rooms for servants. Despite the bitterness of the war, the Union was also kind enough to allow the visiting families of Confederate officers to stay with them inside the prison.

LEFT, FROM TOP : Georges Island is the harbor transportation center; Jessica Renehan, park coordinator with the Commonwealth’s Department of Conservation & Recreation.

OPPOSITE , FROM TOP : On Georges Island, many of Fort Warren’s original buildings and defensive structures remain; Spectacle Island is home to a marina, visitor center, café, swimming beach, and trails that lead to panoramic views.

Taking the steps up to the ramparts, you can peer down at the stately horsechestnut trees lining the grounds. But most visitors will be gazing out to sea to view the white edifice that stands tall on Little Brewster Island. Dating from 1783, Boston Light is the oldest continuously manned lighthouse in America. Beyond it you can just make out the gray form of Graves Light, rising at the head of the Boston Harbor entrance, nine miles from the city. A private owner purchased the lighthouse in 2013 for $933,000, renovating it both to create a family retreat and to preserve a historic landmark.

Far more affordable is a night camping on Grape Island, where you can watch the never-to-be-forgotten sight of the sun rising over the Atlantic and setting over the Boston skyline.

More photos at: YankeeMagazine.com/ Islands

x A Look Back Georges Island

A Civil War–era image shows the interior of Fort Warren. The federal government acquired Georges Island in 1825 and built massive fortifications there; by the time Fort Warren was dedicated in 1847, it had already been surpassed by newer military designs, but was used as a training site. During the Civil War, a prison here housed Confederate troops—as well as the Confederate VP, Alexander Stephens.

A frequent contributor to Yankee, Steve Jermanok is one of America’s most prolific travel writers, with more than 1,500 bylines— the result of having visited 80 countries.

Spectacle Island boasts the highest point on the Eastern Seaboard south of Maine and more than five miles of trails that lead walkers down to the beach.

Built in 1858, Maine’s Bass Harbor Head Light perches atop the rocky southern shore of Mount Desert Island; today it’s part of Acadia National Park. Although the tower and house are not open to the public, trails on either side offer spectacular views.

A NATION’S GIFTS

A sampling of don’t-miss national parks and sites in New England, New York, and nearby Canada.

IN CELEBRATION OF ITS UPCOMING 100TH ANNIVERSARY IN 2016, THE NATIONAL PARK SERVICE IS KICKING OFF THE FESTIVITIES THIS SPRING WITH ITS “FIND YOUR PARK” CAMPAIGN, INVITING EVERYONE TO DISCOVER OUR REMARKABLE HERITAGE. FOR MORE INFORMATION, VISIT: FINDYOURPARK.COM. FOR ADMISSION PRICES, SEASONAL SCHEDULES, AND HIGHLIGHTS, VISIT INDIVIDUAL PARK WEBSITES.

Massachusetts

Adams National Historical Park: Quincy

Two U.S. presidents born 75 feet away from each other—that’s something you’ll be hard-pressed to find anywhere else in the United States! Peruse the building that was home to four generations of the Adams family over 200 years, and soak up a singular family history

while viewing more than 12,000 original books still housed in the Adamses’ library. 617-770-1175; nps.gov/adam/index.htm

Boston National Historical Park: Boston

Echoes of rifle blasts, secret meetings, and fiery meetinghouse speeches come back to life during the dramatic hourlong Freedom Trail tours

led by rangers from Boston National Historical Park. This in-depth exploration of the birthplace of the American Revolution will make you question just what was in those baked beans that generated so many firebrands, including William Bainbridge and Joseph Warren. 617-242-5642; nps.gov/bost/index.htm

Lowell National Historical Park: Lowell

Looking at photos of Lowell’s mill workers, it’s hard to believe that by 1850, they were annually producing enough cloth to circle the earth twice. Jump aboard a canal boat or a replica trolley and return to the time when Lowell was the textile production hub of the Industrial Revolution. 978-970-5000; nps.gov/lowe/index.htm

Minute Man National Historical Park: Concord & Lexington

Hitch up your breeches and don your tricorn hat to join the masses for a giant reenactment of the Battle of Lexington and Concord on Patriots’ Day. Or, if you’re not up for the costume, celebrate the famous battle by strolling the grounds or listening to one of the storytelling events regularly offered by rangers. 978-369-6993; nps.gov/mima/index.htm

New Bedford Whaling National Historical Park: New Bedford

There’s nothing like a 66-foot whale skeleton to get you jazzed to learn more about

COMPILED BY ZINNIA SMITH, SEAN MCGLYNN & LILA TROWBRIDGE

NATIONAL TREASURES

Lewis Hine photographed these Lowell, Mass., textile workers in 1911. Today Lowell National Historical Park offers tours of the restored Boott Mills complex and many related sites commemorating the lives of the men and women who powered America’s Industrial Revolution.

New Bedford, the 19thcentury whaling capital of the country. Or, if you’re interested in mammals more your own size, the museum offers invaluable information about the lives of the town’s famed inhabitants, including Frederick Douglass and Herman Melville. 508-996-4095; nps.gov/nebe/index.htm

Salem Maritime National Historic Site: Salem

With more than 17 miles of rigging line, the tall ship Friendship at Salem captures the spirit of craftsmanship and discovery that this port city’s famed maritime hub must have exuded in the 18th century. Visit Salem’s slew of wharves, warehouses, and historic homes and conjure Hester Prynne back to life in the house where Nathaniel Hawthorne wrote The Scarlet Letter 978-740-1650; nps.gov/sama/index.htm

Museum of African American History: Boston

Boston’s road to the abolition of slavery wasn’t a straight one, so it’s fitting that tours along the Black Heritage Trail aren’t either. Examining all the nooks and crannies you’d never have seen on your own, this rambling exploration passes by old stops on the Underground Railroad and the homes of famous abolitionists and ends at the African Meeting House, a gathering place for such legendary antislavery activists as Frederick Douglass

and William Lloyd Garrison. 617-742-5415; afroammuseum .org

John Fitzgerald Kennedy National Historic Site: Brookline

If you haven’t seen Jack’s original bassinet and porringer— or if you have no idea what

those words mean—it’s high time you make a visit to the family home preserved in JFK’s honor. Meander through the house that his father purchased in 1914, and then take a look at the surrounding North End neighborhood through Kennedy’s eyes by jumping onto one of the ranger-led tours. 617-5667937; nps.gov/jofi/index.htm

Longfellow House/ Washington’s Headquarters National Historic Site: Cambridge

It’s hard to beat the credentials of 105 Brattle Street. As the very site where George Washington took command of the Continental Army during the American Revolution, the place where the first anesthesia for childbirth was administered, and the longtime home

of poet Henry Wadsworth Longfellow, this old house will surprise you with a plethora of unexpected discoveries. 617-876-4491; nps.gov/long/index.htm

Saugus Iron Works National Historic Site: Saugus

The traditions of the Pawtucket people under their fearless female leader Great Squaw Sachem, widow of Nanepashemet, once clashed and intermingled with the advent of bog-ore mining in unforeseen ways here. Rewind the clock at the birthplace of the American iron and steel industry while strolling among the waterwheels, hot forges, mills, and 17th-century homes and herb gardens. 781-233-0050; nps.gov/sair/index.htm

Springfield Armory National Historic Site: Springfield

Stretching over two city blocks and employing 14,000 workers in its heyday, the hulking giant that was once the Springfield Armory supplied weapons to the U.S. military for close to 175 years. With an enormous collection of small arms on exhibit, this site bears homage to one of the United States’ most enduring and profitable products. 413-734-8551; nps.gov/spar/index/htm

Rhode Island

Roger Williams National Memorial: Providence

Roger Williams was no ordinary fellow; this was a man who spoke seven languages and upon his death was laid to rest three times! Banished from the Massachusetts Bay Colony for his religious beliefs, Williams founded the settlement that would become Rhode Island in 1636. Visit this memorial to the remarkable man who began a new society based on the idea that one’s religious practices should be determined by the individual, not the state. 401-521-7266; nps.gov/rowi/index.htm

Springfield Armory National Historic Site, Springfield, Massachusetts. “From floor to ceiling, / Like a huge organ, rise the burnished arms,” wrote Henry Wadsworth Longfellow.

New Bedford Whaling National Historical Park, New Bedford, Massachusetts

Roosevelt Campobello International Park, a Treasure Beloved by Two Countries

ot even a polio diagnosis during the summer of 1921 could keep Franklin Delano Roosevelt from returning to Campobello Island, his family’s beloved summer vacation home of 56 years. Today, 2,800 acres of this remote nine-mile island in New Brunswick, accessed by the toll-free FDR Memorial Bridge from Lubec, Maine, have been preserved as Roose velt Campobello International Park, a memorial to our 32nd president and a symbol of peace between the United States and Canada. It’s the only national park in the world owned and administered by two countries.

Visitors may tour Roosevelt’s 34-room, 1897 Dutch Colonial cottage, where authentic furnishings, tableware, and artifacts such as a model sailboat, playing cards, and toys strewn across the playroom, are on view,

while guides shed light on the lives of the Roosevelts. And the park isn’t just about FDR. When you arrive, reserve seats for “Tea with Eleanor” at the Visitors’ Center; then sit down to tea and cookies, free of charge, while learning about the accomplishments of one of America’s most extraordinary first ladies.

Outside the mansion, with eight miles of walking trails, manicured gardens, and waves breaking on the cliffs, it’s easy to feel the pull that this landscape exerted on the Roosevelts. If the tide is right (at 28 feet, the island’s six-hour range is one of the largest in the world), you may even spot a humpback whale or a pod of seals swimming in the bay below. Don’t forget your passport, as you’ll need it to gain access to the island. 877-851-6663; fdr.net

— Sean McGlynn

Connecticut

Weir Farm National Historic Site: Branchville (Ridgefield/Wilton)

Feel the creative juices flow as you step onto the grounds of this 200-year-old farm, which has influenced generations of artists. The only National Park site dedicated to American painting, rangers offer tours of the historic Weir House and welcome visitors to explore the property’s 60 acres of forest and farmland. 203-834-1896; nps.gov/wefa/index.htm

New Hampshire

Saint-Gaudens National Historic Site: Cornish Sculptor Augustus Saint-Gaudens created more than 150 works in his lifetime, 100 of which are on display on the grounds of his regal home and gardens. Honor the artist who created Boston’s Robert Gould Shaw Memorial and other famous public monuments by taking a tour, or meandering through the gardens to

the “Temple” where his remains lie. 603-675-2175; nps.gov/saga/index.htm

Maine

Acadia National Park: Mt. Desert Island, Isle au Haut, Schoodic Peninsula

Named “the island of barren mountains” by French explorers because of its rugged character, Mount Desert is home to the

highest point on the North Atlantic coast. The majesty of this place has drawn visitors for centuries, creating a rich cultural history of Wabanaki inhabitants, French explorers, English fishermen, and American artists from the Hudson River School. Since 1916, more than 47,000 acres of land and shoreline in three locations have been preserved to create a pristine landscape for outdoor

enjoyment. Whether it’s kicking back on a sandy beach at sunset or climbing Cadillac Mountain at sunrise (see “First Light,” p. 22 in this issue), there’s no reason not to join the long line of wanderers who have looked to Acadia as a place of solace and adventure. 207-2883338; nps.gov/acad/index.htm

Vermont

Marsh–Billings–Rockefeller

National Historic Site: Woodstock

“Don’t just appreciate nature from afar—get in there and muck around!” That’s approximately what conservationists George Perkins Marsh, Frederick Billings, and the Rockefeller family would say if they could join you at their beloved park today. So honor these pioneers by participating in myriad year-round outdoor activities, including snowshoeing, hiking, horseback riding, or just sitting under a 400-year-old tree. 802-4573368; nps.gov/mabi/index.htm

(JORDAN POND); SARA GRAY (WEIR FARM)

At Weir Farm, ranger Andrew Lowe holds an image of a portrait of Impressionist painter J. Alden Weir by John Singer Sargent.

The tranquil beauty of Jordan Pond, with North and South Bubbles in the background, Acadia National Park, Mount Desert Island, Maine.

Magnificent National Parks to Explore in New York, the Canadian Maritimes, and Quebec

New York

Saratoga National Historical Park: Stillwater

A must stop for Revolutionary War buffs, as you stroll the battleground by the Hudson River where, in the autumn of 1777, a victory by American forces became a turning point in the conflict. Historians say that this is one of the most important military sites in the country. nps.gov/sara/index.htm

New Brunswick

Fundy National Park: Alma

This is a wilderness paradise for campers, hikers, and photographers—a place with rugged coastal scenery, more than 20 waterfalls, and a setting on the Bay of Fundy, where one of the highest tidal surges in the world washes fishing boats out to sea and returns them in a timeless rhythm. pc.gc.ca/eng/pn-np/ nb/fundy/index.aspx

Kouchibouguac

National Park:

Saint-Louis-de-Kent

About an hour’s drive from Moncton, Kouchibouguac’s bike trails, beaches, and lagoons are a year-round park for nature lovers. Off-season you may well have a beach or bike trail to yourself. pc.gc.ca/eng/pn-np/nb/ kouchibouguac/index.aspx

Nova Scotia

Cape Breton Highlands

National Park: Ingonish

With the famed scenic Cabot Trail highway winding through the park, visitors find themselves pulling off the road every few minutes to photograph the beautiful highlands and seascapes. pc.gc.ca/eng/pn-np/ns/ cbreton/index.aspx

Kejimkujik National Park and National Historic Site: Caledonia

Filled with forest hiking trails and beautiful beaches to explore, this park is also a magnet for paddlers who take to the rivers and Kejimkujik Lake. pc.gc.ca/eng/pn-np/ns/ kejimkujik/index.aspx

Quebec

Forillon National Park: Gaspé

Gaspé is a fishing village set beside rugged mountain vistas overlooking the sea. A 10-hour drive north of Quebec City, it’s a haul from the States, but once there it’s as though you’ve come to another world. pc.gc.ca/eng/ pn-np/qc/forillon/index.aspx

La Mauricie National Park: Saint-Mathieu-du-Parc

Only two hours from the sophisticated urban delights of Montreal lies a national park with 150 lakes and bogs, surrounded by lush green forest. pc.gc.ca/eng/pn-np/qc/ mauricie/index.aspx

Prince Edward Island

Prince Edward Island National Park: Miltonvale Park

The landscape that inspired the setting for Anne of Green Gables, Prince Edward Island National Park comprises more than 5,000 acres of beaches, sand dunes, barrier islands, cliffs, and forests. The ocean water is famed for being among the warmest in Canada and New England. pc.gc.ca/eng/pn-np/pe/ pei-ipe/index.aspx

A boardwalk leads to Covehead Harbour Lighthouse in Prince Edward Island National Park.

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“There’s so much more to explore. There’s the history of the Bunker Hill Monument itself, which wasn’t easy to get built. And then there’s Charlestown, which was rebuilt after much of it was burned in the battle. The stories intertwine as subtexts to the stories of the park.”

Ethan Beeler: “It’s an honor to be the keepers of this history. There’s never a dull moment.”

National Park Service Ranger

OPPOSITE , INSET : Bunker Hill Monument, Charlestown, Massachusetts.

We ask Ethan Beeler …

What Is Life Like for an Urban National Park Ranger?

INTERVIEW BY JOE BILLS | PHOTOGRAPHS BY DANA SMITH

Ethan Beeler started working for the National Park Service as a college student in the 1980s. Since 1991, he’s been a ranger based at Boston National Historical Park, where his territory includes the Bunker Hill Monument, the Charlestown Navy Yard, the U.S.S. Constitution, Faneuil Hall, and other iconic downtown sites. We caught up with Beeler at his Navy Yard office.

ne of the greatest things about our national parks is that every one is different; that’s part of the justification for creating them. Boston National Historical Park is in a shared environment. In a wilderness park like Acadia, there’s a fixed boundary, within which the rangers are in charge. They help visitors and also serve as law enforcement. We can’t control our properties the same way. At Bunker Hill, we’re part of a neighborhood. There are houses across the street. That requires a different approach.

“These parks are classrooms. The slope of Bunker Hill is made up of houses now, but that was where British soldiers were actively engaging Colonists. And the height of [Breed’s Hill], where the monument is, was where the hand-to-hand fighting occurred and where Joseph Warren died. Place is so powerful—to be able to be at the exact spot, on this ground.

“At the busier [National Park] sites, where you’re dealing with lots of school visits, you don’t get to focus on one age group. How to communicate to each and make it come alive for them? You can’t prepackage the story; you have to know your audience and adapt to them. How do you tell a complex political story to a group that includes kids and adults and people who have no knowledge of our history? How do you make it come alive for them?

“There are many common misconceptions about these sites. We get visitors who think that the Colonists fired on the British from the openings at the top of the Bunker Hill Monument. We get the ‘Bunker Hill or Breed’s Hill’ question over and over. Even if people come with the wrong ideas about things, if that’s what compels them to visit, it’s good. It usually leads to a great conversation.

“The park’s downtown sites aren’t owned by the National Park Service. The City of Boston owns the Old State House and Faneuil Hall. The Old North Church is owned by its congregation. At the Navy Yard, we have multiple entities we work with, including the Navy. Navy culture and Park Service culture

can be very different. Both are government entities, but we’re very different in how we do things. We’re collaborators at most of our sites, and we’re collaborating with partners who don’t [all] necessarily have the same goals. We have to be adaptable.

“At Bunker Hill, my job was very heavily community-based. I went to community meetings and met with the neighbors. One regular visitor was a Charlestown resident who grew up in the Great Depression and used to give tours of the monument for a nickel when he was a kid. Sometimes there’d be calls, often from members of that older generation, wanting to know what we were going to do about the dogs, or the sunbathers, which were ‘an offense to [their] eyes.’ They’d complain that when they were kids, they weren’t allowed on the grass; I’d hear stories of the policeman who was stationed there to shoo them off the lawn. As things change, there are always people who are happier about the changes than others. But I loved the knocks on the back door from the neighbors. That interaction with the community is an important part of the job.

“We’re still interpreting Bunker Hill. There are so many stories and accounts that are being unearthed all the time by descendants of people who are believed to have been at the battle. There’s so much more to explore. Like Salem Poor, an African American who fought at Bunker Hill [and] who was, to our knowledge, the only soldier to have 14 officers from the Battle of Bunker Hill sign a proclamation recognizing his great bravery during the battle. But we still don’t know exactly what he did.

“These sites and these stories are important to people. I got a call just yesterday from the second person in three weeks who wants to propose to his girlfriend at the top of the monument. I’ve been fortunate enough to meet leaders and actors and all manner of interesting people who come to the park and want to visit. It’s just wonderful, even after all these years, to be able to walk across the hall and look out at the Constitution. It’s an honor to be the keepers of this history. There’s never a dull moment.” More information at: nps.gov/bost

Make Your Memories Last Forever

Our Timeline Growth Rules are hand crafted in Maine using traditional materials and methods continuously practiced since 1869. The rules are heirloom quality. Each 6ft 6in blade is milled from select Sugar Maple, markings are engraved into the blades and filled with pigment, and the inlaid ends are machined from solid brass.

Record your child’s growth as it happens directly onto the face of the rule and record milestones and special events on the back.

Your child’s formative years pass quickly. The growth and personal history recorded on the rule will become a symbol and celebration of your child, a memento made more precious by time.

A truly unique shower gift or birth acknowledgement.

$79 .00

Shipped free in contiguous 48 states

SKOWHEGAN WOODEN RULE, INC. (207) 474-0953

www.skowheganwoodenrule.com

Lobsterman’s Wife’s Maine Sea GlassBracelet

Saw an ad in Uncle Henry’s: “100 Pounds of Sea Glass For Sale”... that’s all it said. We called, then visited. She was delightful. She said she and her daughters, and then grandchildren, had been picking up sea glass on the beaches around her home forever.

The walls in her basement were lined with coffee cans and glass jars. It was beautiful. This was the definitive collection of Maine sea glass. We bought it all.

Each bracelet is guaranteed a nice bright blue.

The and accessories Cape Cod Bracelet *

Available in Sterling with one 14K Gold Ball, all Sterling Silver or all 14K Gold. S-M-L.

Seaside Stackers™

Made with hand-selected genuine pearls, Gold & Sterling Silver accents.

Heart Bracelet

Sterling Silver Bracelet with 14K Gold Heart Birthstone of your choice! Also available as a pendant with 14K gold chain.

Turks Head Knot Bracelet available in Sterling or 14K Gold. S-M-L.

Claw Pendant & Bracelet

14K Gold Lobster Claw pendant and 14K Gold Lobster Claw and Sterling Silver bracelet. Birthstone can be added to the claw of the pendant or bracelet.

554 Rte. 28, Harwich Port, Cape Cod, MA 02646

Lighthouse

The light, pure silver Sweeping, reaching into the night.

These are real Maine sea glass, collected by a mom and her two young sons. Cut, polished, and assembeled by the dad right here in Maine.

Sky-blue top, medium-blue sea, living green and rich earth below.

silver

*Cranberry Jewelers is not affiliated with Eden Hand Arts of Dennis, MA., the creator of the Cape Cod Screwball® bracelet. Items shown are not actual size.

Watermelon Patch Maine Tourmaline

A heart of pink, a rind of green, Held securely by curling tendrils of precious gold.

14K yellow gold with 18" chain $485.00 - $985.00 Now

Sitting on a thick wallet all day is a great way to ruin your back. So we created a better wallet with a patented shape to better fit your front pocket.

in sterling silver starting at $285.00

Over 30 designs, ranging from ballistic nylon to Made in Maine bison leather. Satisfaction guaranteed. Rogue

Lady Captain’s North-South, East-West Blue

Rings

Not merely a ring. It’s a lady in command. This morning you have two choices: north-south or east-west. The direction chosen determines destiny for years to come.

Perfect size 5x7mm oval royal blue sapphire. Lovely presence on the hand. Lady Captain’s Ring design. 14K yellow gold.

State-by-state listings of what to eat, where to stay, and what to do (including the best bargains and historic highlights) … MAINE ................................. 102

HAMPSHIRE ...............117

.............................136 MASSACHUSETTS .............. 144 GREATER BOSTON ................157

.................... 162

ISLAND .................. 170

PLUS … a few “Editors’ Choice” selections from beyond our borders …

................................ 177 NEW YORK ........................... 178

Be sure to call ahead or visit venue websites to check seasonal schedules, admission and parking fees, ticket info, registration or reservation requirements, and the latest rates and prices. Lodging rates are per night double occupancy (spring/summer season rates) unless otherwise noted; call or check venue websites for additional travel packages, other special pricing, and off-season rates. “Entrées” refers to dinner pricing unless otherwise noted.

2015 TRAVEL GUIDE TO NEW ENGLAND SPECIAL ISSUE

OUR PICKS FOR THE BEST FOOD, LODGING, AND THINGS TO DO

West Quoddy Head Light, South Lubec, Maine (“Best Lighthouse,” p. 102). This bold brick structure has been standing sentinel above Quoddy Narrows, at the easternmost point of the continental U.S., since 1857 (replacing a wooden tower dating from 1808).

MAINE

ATTRACTIONS

BEST BREWERY TOURS

THE MAINE BREW BUS, Greater Portland & Beyond

Leave the driving to Lenny, the Maine Brew Bus, as you sip and tour Southern Maine breweries, brewpubs, wineries and distilleries. Tickets includes transportation, tours, tastings, and gratuities. Most tours depart from The Craft Beer Cellar on Commercial St. 207-200-9111; themainebrewbus.com

BEST MARITIME MUSEUM

MAINE MARITIME MUSEUM, Bath

Spread out on 20 riverside acres are five original 19th-century buildings from the Percy & Small Shipyard, a late-Victorian home, a contempo-

rary museum, and plentiful hands-on exhibits detailing Maine’s rich seafaring heritage. Reserve in advance for a Bath Iron Works yard tour. 243 Washington St. 207-443-1316; maine maritimemuseum.org

BEST RAILWAY MUSEUM

BOOTHBAY RAILWAY VILLAGE, Boothbay

All aboard! Ride a narrow-gauge steam train through a rural village setting, view more than 60 antique vehicles, and explore informative exhibits in historic buildings at one of Maine’s oldest railway museums. 586 Wiscasset Road (Route 27). 207-633-4727; railwayvillage.org

BEST GIFT STORE GALLERY

GIFTS AT 136, Damariscotta

Maine-made fine and folk art and crafts in all price ranges, along with Maine-made choco-

lates, make for intriguing browsing and delicious buying at this downtown shop. 136 Main St. 207-563-1011; giftsat136.com

BEST WINDJAMMER FOR WINE LOVERS SCHOONER STEPHEN TABER , Rockland

Sips ahoy! Not only does the Taber serve wine with dinner every night, it also offers three- to six-day wine-themed cruises, with guided discussions and tastings. From $618 per person inclusive. Windjammer Wharf. 800-999-7352; stephentaber.com

» HISTORIC HIGHLIGHT

BEST LIGHTHOUSE WEST QUODDY HEAD, Lubec (1858)

Visit the exhibits in the keeper’s house and climb the candy-striped tower; then picnic overlooking Grand Manan and hike the trails over the cliffs and around the bogs as you watch for birds and whales. South Lubec Road. 207-733-0911; westquoddy.com

» HISTORIC HIGHLIGHT

BEST CEMETERY TOUR MOUNT HOPE CEMETERY, Bangor (1834)

America’s second-oldest garden cemetery is the final resting place for luminaries including Vice President Hannibal Hamlin, painter Waldo Pierce, and gangster Al Brady as well as a filming location for Stephen King’s Pet Sematary. Download a map for a self-guided visit, or join one of the Bangor Historical Society’s guided tours. 1048 State St. 207-945-6589; mthopebgr .com. 207-942-1900 (Bangor Historical Society); bangormuseum.com

BEST DIVA DIVERSION

NORDICA HOMESTEAD MUSEUM, Farmington

Turn-of-the-20th-cenutry American Wagnerian opera star Lillian Nordica comes to life through artifacts, jewelry, musical scores, costumes, and props displayed in her birthplace. 120 Nordica Lane. 207-778-2042; lilliannordica .com

BEST HIDDEN LOBSTER SHACK: M C LOON’S LOBSTER, Thomaston (listing on p. 114)

Photo by Sueanne Hodges

Poland Spring Resort

3 Inns & 10 Cottages

3 Restaurants & 3 Pubs

Donald Ross 18 Hole Golf Course & Driving Range

Swimming Pool & Tennis

Hiking Trails & Boating

Nightly Entertainment Oxford Casino nearby & much, much more!

207-998-4351

*See vacation package rates at www.PolandSpringResort.com

Enjoy great sailing by day and cozy anchorages at night. Your adventure includes delicious meals, shore trips, wildlife and spectacular scenery. Choose from 8 historic windjammers sailing from Camden and Rockland on 3- to 6-day cruises. Prices start at $400. 1-800-807-WIND www.sailmainecoast.com

Be gin a tradition in the heart of Ogunquit.

Experience the heart of Ogunquit at your door every season of the year—lobsters and lighthouses, sandy beaches and sunsets, world class dining and relaxation.

Let us help you begin a Maine tradition today.

» HISTORIC HIGHLIGHT

BEST HISTORIC PERFORMING-ARTS HALL DEERTREES THEATRE & CULTURAL CENTER, Harrison (1936)

Stars ranging from Rudy Vallee to Henry Winkler have performed at this 1936 theatre, built of rose hemlock and renowned for its acoustics. Concerts, plays, and arts events keep it humming. 156 Deertrees Road. 207-583-6747; deertrees-theatre.org

DINING

BEST FARM-TO-TABLE FINE DINING

JOSHUA’S, Wells

Soft lighting, fine art, and tablecloths in a meticulously restored 1774 house are the background for Chef Joshua Mather’s made-fromscratch fare, with much of the produce grown on his family’s nearby organic farm. Don’t skip his signature dish: pan-roasted Atlantic haddock with caramelized onion crust, paired with wildmushroom risotto and chive oil. Entrées: from $23. 1637 Post Road (Route 1). 207-646-3355; joshuas.biz

BEST LOCAVORE RESTAURANT

VINLAND, Portland

Local. Organic. Maine. That sums up chef/ owner David Levi’s philosophy at Vinland, where indigenous food traditions are celebrated and all ingredients are from Maine. The small-plates menu might include Portland strip steak with whey-poached parsnip, wild porcini mushroom, and parsley gremolata, or lobster with wild black-trumpet mushroom emulsion, nori, and radish. Small plates: from: $13. Five choices: $60. 593 Congress St. 207-653-8617; vinland.me

BEST CHINESE FOOD CART

LI’S CHINESE EXPRESS, Freeport

China-born Li Jin whips up wok dishes, such as rice noodles, lo mein, and fried rice, and dishes out crab Rangoon and spring rolls from her food cart, parked on Bow Street about a block from L.L. Bean’s mothership. Entrées: from $5. Bow St. 347-323-5341

BEST ASIAN FUSION

LONG GRAIN, Camden

Do make reservations to score one of the few seats at this storefront restaurant where Bangkok-born Ravin Nakjaroen creates flavor-rich homestyle pan-Asian fare. Knockouts include mussels in spicy coconut–lemongrass broth, Maine crab-fried rice, and the house-made noodles with kimchi and pork belly. Don’t miss the coconut flan. Entrées: from $10. 31 Elm St. 207-236-9001

SPOTLIGHT: MOUNT DESERT ISLAND

ATTRACTIONS

BEST LOBSTER-BOAT CRUISE

LULU LOBSTER BOAT RIDE, Bar Harbor

Why are shedders a little sweeter? What’s the biggest lobster ever caught in Maine’s cold waters? Captain John Nicolai answers these questions plus a whole lot more. Climb aboard the Lulu , a traditional Down East–style lobster boat, for a humor-filled twohour cruise covering everything you wanted to know about Maine’s tasty crustacean. The seal sightings and breathtaking coastal beauty aren’t bad, either. 55 West St. 207-963-2341; lululobsterboat.com

BEST FAMILY HIKE

SHIP HARBOR NATURE TRAIL, Acadia National Park, Southwest Harbor

Pick up a trail guide at the park visitors’ center and pack a picnic. This gentle 1.2-mile figureeight hike passes through varied ecosystems, from moss-laden woods to pink granite ledges. Route 102A. 207-288-3338; nps.gov/acad

» HISTORIC HIGHLIGHT

BEST MOUNTAIN BIKING

CARRIAGE ROADS, Acadia National Park (1913)

Pedal into the heart of Acadia National Park on 45 mapped and signposted miles of car-free, crushed-stone carriage roads, punctuated by 17 handsome granite-faced bridges and two gatehouses. 207-288-3338; nps.gov/acad

LODGING

BEST PARKSIDE B&B

THE BIRCHES, Southwest Harbor

Built as a summer cottage in 1916, the stately Birches combines gentle summer ease with a location that puts the Flying Mountain, Acadia, and St. Sauveur trailheads and Valley Cove fire road within easy walking distance. Rates: from $249. 46 Fernald Point Road. 207-244-5182; thebirchesbnb.com

BEST BIRDWATCHING

SEAWALL MOTEL, Southwest Harbor

It’s possible to see shore-, freshwater, marsh, and woodland birds, and maybe even an eagle, from guestrooms in this family-owned, budget-friendly motel overlooking the rare freshwater pond/saltwater shore combo. Rates: from $80. 566 Seawall Road (Route 102A). 207-244-3020; seawallmotel.com

BEST PET-FRIENDLY LODGING WONDER VIEW INN, Bar Harbor

Furry guests are welcomed to these motelstyle accommodations on estate-like grounds with a bowl, a treat, and recommendations for places to go, things to do, and dog-friendly al fresco restaurants. Rates: from $89, $20 per pet. 50 Eden St. 888-439-8439, 207-288-3358; wonderviewinn.com

DINING

BEST FINE DINING WITH A VIEW

XANTHAS, Claremont Hotel, Southwest Harbor

Linen-draped tables, candles, and fresh flowers set the tone in the dining room, where big windows frame views over the manicured lawn, croquet courts, and Somes Sound. In the background: Acadia’s peaks and Frenchman Bay’s outer islands. Entrées: from $24. 22 Claremont Road. 207-244-5036; theclaremont hotel.com

BEST BISTRO FARE

MACHE, Bar Harbor

Come hungry. Hanger steak to duck confit, Atlantic scallops to lamb shanks, might be on Chef Kyle Yarborough’s daily-changing menu, featuring traditional French cuisine with Mediterranean accents. Entrées: from $20. 321 Main St. 207-288-0447; machebistro .com

BEST TWOFOLD FOOD STOP

SWEET PEA FARM, Bar Harbor

Twofer! Enjoy breakfast, lunch, or dinner from the wood-fired oven at Sweet Pea Café and purchase Maine-made wine, beer, and chocolates at Bar Harbor Cellars Winery, both located on Sweet Pea Farm. Entrées: from $10. 854 Route 3. 207-801-9078 (café), 207-288-3907 (winery); barharborcellars.com

BEST MOUNTAIN BIKING: CARRIAGE ROADS, Acadia National Park (listing above, far left)

BEST BISTRO FARE: MACHE, Bar Harbor (listing at right)

BEST PIZZA AL FRESCO SEAL COVE FARM, Lamoine

On a fine day, mosey over to Seal Cove, a goat farm best known for its artisanal cheeses, for a handcrafted pizza made from fresh ingredients and baked in an outdoor wood-burning oven. Afterwards, browse the fresh and aged chèvres, goat’s-milk feta, and mixed cow- and goat’smilk cheeses in the pint-size shop; cap off your meal with a goat’s-milk gelato. Pizzas: from $10. 202 Partridge Cove Road (Route 204). 207667-7127; mainegoatcheese.com

BEST MEXICAN TAKEOUT

VAZQUEZ MEXICAN, Milbridge

Authentic Mexican in Down East Maine? Ayuh. Expect scratch-made tortillas along with generous tacos, gorditas, tostadas, guaraches, burritos, tamales, and other traditional dishes. Entrées: from $4. 38 Main St. 207-5988141

BEST LAKESIDE SNACK SHACK

BRESCA & THE HONEY BEE

AT OUTLET BEACH, New Gloucester

Renowned chef Krista Kerns Desjarlais closed her Portland restaurant and now owns this food shack on Sabbathday Lake, serving fresh and local foods ranging from hot dogs to a duck-egg pressed sandwich. Sandwiches: from $5. 106 Outlet Road. 207-926-3388; brescaandthehoney bee.com

BEST FINE DINING

IN THE WESTERN MOUNTAINS

COPLIN DINNER HOUSE, Stratton

Savor light fare, such as fish tacos or burgers, or heftier entrées, like rack of lamb or chargrilled hanger steak, in a beautifully restored farmhouse. Don’t miss the blueberry pie with cinnamon ice cream. Entrées: from $12. 8252 Carrabassett Road (Route 27). 207-246-0016

BEST FARM-STORE RESTAURANT

MISTY MEADOWS ORGANIC FARM, Grand Isle

Comfort foods, including traditional Acadian dishes, are prepared from farm-fresh, organic ingredients and served in a rustic, familyfriendly combo café/farm store. Entrées: from $5. 1164 Main St. (U.S. Route 1). 207-3166959; dionnefarms.com

LODGING

BEST WALK-TO-EVERYTHING LOCATION

2 VILLAGE SQUARE, Ogunquit

Walk to shops, galleries, restaurants, the beach, and the Marginal Way, if you can tear away from the heated pool, hot tub, or rolling ocean views. Rates: from $239. 14 Village Square Lane. 207-646-5779; 2vsquare.com

photo by Leo Garza Photography www.leogarza.com

BEST SEA CAPTAIN’S MANSION

CAPTAIN LORD MANSION, Kennebunkport

This grand, Federal-style inn immerses guests in a 200-year-old, sumptuously decorated sea captain’s mansion but pampers them with 21stcentury amenities, including complimentary WiFi, iPhone docks, and in-house spa services. Rates: from $239. 6 Pleasant St. 207-967-3141; captainlord.com

BEST WATER VIEWS

TOPSIDE INN, Boothbay Harbor

The aptly named Topside caps an in-town hill with sigh-producing views over the inner and outer harbors. Rooms in the three buildings are bright and airy, with contemporary nautical décor. Rates: from $175. 60 McKown St. 207633-5404; topsideinn.com

BEST ANYTIME PIE

BERRY MANOR INN, Rockland

Not only do guests enjoy an expansive breakfast, but they also have access to pantries stocked with Maine-made Gifford’s ice cream and the inn’s renowned homemade pies, such as to-die-for blueberry, mixed berry, and apple. Rates: from $145. 81 Talbot Ave. 207-596-7696; berrymanor inn.com

BEST IN-TOWN COUNTRY INN

HARTSTONE INN, Camden

Choose from rooms, all decorated with French country flair, in the main mansard-roofed inn, the Manor House (tucked behind), or The Hide-

away, about a block away. Even better: Downtown Camden is just footsteps away. Be sure to make reservations for dinner. Rates: from $135. 41 Elm St. (U.S. Route 1). 800-788-4823, 207236-4259; hartstoneinn.com

» HISTORIC HIGHLIGHT

BEST CLASSIC MAINE INN

PENTAGÖET INN, Castine (1894)

Step back in time in Castine, a serene coastal Maine town with a turbulent history. With lacy curtains, floral wallpapers, and period antiques, the Queen Anne–style Pentagöet complements its historic downtown setting while pampering guests with contemporary amen ities (organic mattresses and free WiFi, to name a few) and an excellent dining room. Rates: from $135. 26 Main St. 207326-8616; pentagoet.com

BEST HOMESTEADING HOSTEL

DEER ISLE HOSTEL, Deer Isle

Communal dinners are drawn from the organic gardens in front of this rustic, off-the-grid, hand-built hostel designed to replicate a 17thcentury timber-frame home. Rates: from $25. 65 Tennis Road. 207-348-2308; deerislehostel.com

BEST RIVERSIDE RETREAT

THE OLD SACO INN, Fryeburg

Peace and tranquility are yours on this 65-acre riverfront property, with trails meandering through woods and across fields, and canoes and kayaks available for paddling. Add comfy rooms, hearty breakfasts, and a cozy pub, and you may

never leave. Rates: from $125. 125 Old Saco Lane. 207-925-3737; oldsacoinn.com

» HISTORIC HIGHLIGHT

BEST LAKE & MOUNTAIN INN

RANGELEY INN & TAVERN, Rangeley (1909)

Rangeley Lake is out the front door, Haley Pond is out the back, and mountains frame the views from this recently renovated, downtown Victorian inn. Rates: from $100. 2443 Main St. 207-864-3341; the rangeleyinn.com

BARGAINS

BEST PORTLAND ART IMMERSION

FIRST FRIDAY ART WALK, Portland

On the first Friday of every month, Portland’s art community opens its doors, with gallery and museum events, street performances, and more. Free. firstfridayartwalk.com

BEST TWOFER LOBSTER ROLLS

TRACEY’S SEAFOOD, Sullivan

Tracey’s serves big portions of ultra-fresh lobster, chowders, and fried seafood at low prices: Think two-for-$10-or-$14 lobster rolls, plus weekend fish fries and clam fries with free seconds for $10.95. Don’t miss the homemade pies. 2717 U.S. Route 1. 207-422-9072

(continued on p. 112)

BEST SUMMER STOCK: OGUNQUIT PLAYHOUSE, Ogunquit (listing on p. 112)

HAPPY HEALTHY

Focus on the vows you take and thememoriesyou make. We invite you to celebrate your marriage at TheWestin Portland Harborview.

FOR MORE INFORMATION, VISIT WESTINPORTLANDHARBORVIEW.COM OR CALL207.517.8890.

For a better you.™

©2011–2014 Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Preferred Guest, SPG, Westin and their logos are the trademarks of Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc., or its affiliates. For full terms & conditions, visit westin. com/portlandharborview

lanPort Po

INTHESHOPPING VILLAGE OF FREEPORT, 2 BLOCKS TO L.L.BEAN

TWOGREAT RESTAURANTS WITH LOCAL,ORGANIC&ALLNATURAL MENUITEMS

FULLRANGEOFGLUTENFREEAND LOWGLYCEMIC MENU CHOICES 84 ROOMS AND 9 TOWNHOUSES INDOOR HEATED POOL CERTIFIED “ENVIRONMENTAL LEADER”BYTHESTATE OF MAINE FULLY HANDICAPPED ACCESSIBLE PETFRIENDLY FAMILY OWNED

MAINE

(continued from p. 108)

BEST FAMILY ART & MUSIC FESTIVAL GRAND LAKE STREAM FOLK ART FESTIVAL, Grand Lake Stream

Two days of great music and folk art, plus a quilt show, kids’ activities, and canoe and cultural exhibits. $8 one-day pass, $12 weekend. Always the last full weekend of July; at the baseball field. Water St. 207-796-8199; grandlake streamfolkartfestival.com

BEST THROWBACK BURGER JOINT

BURGER BOY, Caribou

Retro Burger Boy has been serving fresh ground burgers, fried chicken and seafood, house-made fries, ice cream, and delicious shakes since 1968. Eat in the jukebox-themed dining room or opt for the drive-through. Burgers: from $2. 234 Sweden St. 207-498-2329.

BEST HISTORY MUSEUM

MAINE STATE MUSEUM, Augusta

Four floors of engaging permanent and temporary exhibits detailing Maine’s history, heritage, and environment. Displays in the Back to Nature exhibit range from commemorating the extinction of the passenger pigeon to tourmaline mining. Plus, you can’t beat the price: $2 adults; children under 18 $1. 230 State St. 207-287-2301; mainestatemuseum.org

CLASSICS

» HISTORIC HIGHLIGHT

BEST SUMMER STOCK

OGUNQUIT PLAYHOUSE, Ogunquit (1933)

Catch a musical in the 675-seat Ogunquit Playhouse, operating every summer since 1933. Over the years, stars such as Sally Struthers, Lorenzo Lamas, and Rue McClanahan have performed here in productions including The King and I, The Full Monty , and Crazy for You . In addition to Broadway hits, the Playhouse stages regional premieres, as well, including Billy Elliot and The Addams Family. Get the inside scoop on a backstage tour. 10 Main St. (U.S. Route 1). 207-646-5511; ogunquitplayhouse.org

» HISTORIC HIGHLIGHT

BEST ART & ARCHITECTURE

PORTLAND MUSEUM OF ART, Portland (1911)

Explore three centuries of works, including a top-flight collection of paintings by American Realist and Impressionist masters (Rockwell Kent, Andrew Wyeth, and Marsden Hartley, to name a few) and fine and decorative arts. 7 Congress Square. 207-775-6148; portlandmuseum.org

*Photo by Bob Dennis

Photos by Darren Setlow

BEST HIDDEN LOBSTER SHACK

M C LOON’S LOBSTER, Thomaston

It’s a little extra work to find McLoon’s, hidden on causeway-connected Spruce Head Island, but it’s worth it for the ultra-fresh lobster paired with breathtaking views over a working wharf and spruce-fringed islands. Don’t like lobster? Enjoy crab cakes, burgers, hot dogs, and the homemade desserts. Sandwiches: from $5. 327 Island Road. 207-593-1382; mcloonslobster.com

BEST RESORT HISTORY LESSON

POLAND SPRING RESORT

& PRESERVATION PARK, Poland

Get an up-close look at the history of Poland Spring, learning about the water, the grand resort, the celebrities who frequented it, and the Ricker family, while touring historic buildings and sites. Donations requested. 640 Maine St. 207-998-4351, polandspringinns.com

OUTDOORS

BEST COASTAL FARM

WELLS RESERVE AT LAUDHOLM, Wells

A National Estuarine Research Reserve, based at historic Laudholm Farms, known in the 1920s for its progressive agricultural practices. Hike

seven miles of trails winding through 2,250 acres of woods, beach, and coastal salt marsh; explore exhibits at the Maine Coastal Ecology Center and the Laudholm farmhouse; and take part in programs ranging from lectures to nature walks. $4 adults; maximum $12/car. 342 Laudholm Farm Road. 207-646-1555; wellsreserve.org

» HISTORIC HIGHLIGHT

BEST COASTAL STATE PARK

REID STATE PARK, Georgetown (1946)

Crashing surf, two beautiful sand beaches, a lagoon (10 to 15 degrees warmer than the open ocean), tidepools, hiking trails, sand dunes, and marshlands—Midcoast’s 610-acre Reid State Park, on Georgetown Island, has it all, along with shower rooms, picnic tables, and a snack bar. Don’t miss Griffith Head, a rocky outcrop overlooking the park, and a great vantage point for viewing lighthouses, islands, and sweeping sea vistas. Birdwatchers will note that portions of Reid’s beaches are also nesting areas for least terns and piping plovers, as well as stopover spots and feeding areas for other shorebird species as well. 375 Seguinland Road. 207-371-2303; maine.gov/dacf/ parks/index.shtml

BEST TOWN-OWNED WILDERNESS PARK MATTAWAMKEAG WILDERNESS PARK, Mattawamkeag

Hike, camp, swim, paddle, mountain-bike, picnic, fish, and play at this 1,000-acre park on the Mattawamkeag River, complete with recreation hall, camp store, hot showers, playground, and laudromat. Day use $3 per person or $7 per car. Campsites: from $22. 1513 Wilderness Park Road. 207-290-0205; mwpark.com

BEST MOUNTAIN PLAYGROUND

SUNDAY RIVER ADVENTURE PARK, Newry

Play for an hour or all day, choosing from liftassisted mountain biking, scenic lift rides, zipline tours, twin zips, outdoor climbing wall, disc golf, and a bungee trampoline. Day pass: $25. 15 South Ridge Road. 800-543-2754; sunday river.com

BEST FAMILY HIKE

BALD MOUNTAIN, Oquossoc

Moderate effort is required to reach Bald Mountain’s 2,443-foot summit, capped by an observation tower delivering spectacular 360-degree lake and mountain views. Find the trailhead on Bald Mountain Road, 0.8 mile off Route 4, across from Bald Mountain Camps. mainetrailfinder .com

BEST MARITIME MUSEUM: MAINE MARITIME MUSEUM, Bath (listing on p. 102)

TOP 20 MAINE EVENTS

THRU JUNE 6: BANGOR, Andy Warhol: Photographs & Screenprints. Celebrities and consumerism abound in the work of this icon of American pop art. At the University of Maine Museum of Art. 207-561-3350; umma.umaine.edu

MAY 2: KENNEBUNK, May Day Festival. Familyfriendly fun throughout the downtown: Make your own May basket, see the parade, stroll through the book sale, art exhibit, farmers’ market, and crafts booths, and enjoy wagon rides, demonstrations, and more. kennebunk maine.us

MAY 14–17: BAR HARBOR, Taste of Bar Harbor. Featuring local establishments committed to creating epicurean delights, the festival presents cooking classes, brewery tours, and tastings. Experience the dessert-night competition, the pub tour, the popular chef’s table, waiter wars, and the local producer’s showcase. barharborinfo.com

MAY 15–17: DEER ISLE, Wings, Waves & Woods. This annual bird-migration festival calls to those who love nature and art with gallery openings featuring works by more than 40 area artists, guided bird walks and identification lectures, boat and kayak tours, painting classes, locally sourced meals, and more. 207-348-6124; deerisle.com

MAY 15–17: FRYEBURG, Northern New England Home, Garden, & Flower Show. Home improvement and gardening inspiration abound as Fryeburg Fairgrounds is transformed into a showcase of ideas and services: More than 300 booths, plus seminars, cooking demonstrations, garden and landscape displays, irresistible fair food, and more. 800-359-2033; homegardenflowershow.com

JUNE 14: PORTLAND, 42nd Old Port Festival. The city kicks off the summer season with a downtown celebration featuring live music on multiple stages, locally made arts and crafts, tempting food items, kids’ activities, and more. 207-772-6828; portlandmaine.com

JUNE 19–21: NAPLES, Maine Blues Festival. Naples is singing the blues over Father’s Day weekend with musical performances at a variety of locations, as well as concerts at the Naples Green on Saturday, alongside throngs of artisans, food vendors, and kids’ activities. mainebluesfestival.com

JUNE 21–27: BOOTHBAY HARBOR, Windjammer Days Festival. There are few more serene and beautiful activities than watching windjammers sail into the harbor. Meanwhile, races, pancake breakfasts, waterfront concerts, a craft fair, a hometown street parade, a golf tournament, an antique boat parade, and fireworks over the water ensure that the whole family has a great day. boothbayharbor.com

JUNE 25–28: BRUNSWICK, Curtis Friends Library Book Sale. Brunswick Junior High School is bulging with more than 70,000 items for sale, including books, CDs, DVDs, games, and

puzzles, sorted into more than 30 categories for your bargain-hunting pleasure. 207-7255242 x301; curtislibrary.com

JUNE 27: DOVER/FOXCROFT, Whoopie Pie Festival. Celebrate the state’s signature treat with a day of fun, music, and sweet snacking, as dozens of bakers present thousands of Whoopie Pies for your enjoyment. And don’t forget to vote for your favorite in the Big Whoop competition. mainewhoopiepiefestival.com

JUNE 27: KINGFIELD, Kingfield POPS. Start with the art festival downtown, then peruse the offerings of fine area artisans while listening to a lineup of musicians, including popular Portland rock band Rustic Overtones. Spend the evening at Kennedy Farm for the main concert, featuring the Bangor Symphony Orchestra. kingfieldpops.com

JUNE 28–JULY 26: BAR HARBOR, Bar Harbor Music Festival. You’re certain to hear something new at the Bar Harbor Music Festival, nationally recognized for its mission of providing essential performance opportunities for outstanding up-and-coming talent. barharbor musicfestival.org

JULY 2–5: BATH, Bath Heritage Days. A weekend of fanfare, with fireworks, live music, comedy shows, dance performances, tasty foods, a strongman competition, and much more throughout the downtown area. bathheritage days.com

JULY 3: BLUE HILL, 25th Annual Blue Hill Pops Concert. Presented by the Bagaduce Music Lending Library, the show will be headlined by folksinger Noel Paul Stookey, formerly of Peter, Paul & Mary, at the George Stevens Academy gymnasium. 207-374-5454; bagaduce music.org

JULY 4: BETHEL, Bethel Art Fair. Quirky meets classy at Bethel Common, where live music, fine culinary fare, and the unique offerings of dozens of artists and artisans are on display.

MAY 22–25: WHITING, Down East Spring Birding Festival. Identified as one of the most important avian areas in the U.S. by the American Bird Conservancy, the Cobscook Bay region offers a special birding experience, with independent explorations as well as professionally guided hikes, sightseeing boat rides, and sunset cruises—plus expert-led lectures. 207-733-2233 x330; cclc.me/birdfest

Events like the “11th Annual Shy, Novice & Closeted Art Show” ramp up the fun. 207824-3575; mahoosucarts.org

JULY 10–12: LISBON FALLS, Moxie Festival. Join in for three days of “wicked cool” fun, as this unique soft drink is celebrated in its home state. Plenty to drink, plus a concert at the MTM Center, a car show, a recipe contest, a parade, a 5K race, an ATV charity ride, and more. 207-992-8997; moxiefestival.com

JULY 10–19: WATERVILLE, Maine International Film Festival. Representing the best of both American independent and international cinema, this 10-day festival showcases nearly 100 films, spotlighting some of New England’s most exciting and innovative moviemakers, many of whom will be on hand for the festivities. 207-861-8138; miff.org

JULY 17–19: YARMOUTH: 50th Annual Clam Festival. Since 1965, this free-admission festival has been operated by and for area nonprofit groups. The fun starts early, when the carnival rides and games open midweek prior to the festival, which includes a parade, fireworks, live music on three stages, arts and crafts shows, road races, and of course, lots of good food, all at various locations around the town center. clamfestival.com

JULY 24–AUG. 2: BANGOR, 165th Bangor State Fair. Bangor’s fairgrounds play host to one of the state’s largest agricultural and family-fun festivals, featuring 4-H competitions (including a dog show, a sheep show, and horse judging) plus a midway, crafts, commercial exhibits, a flower show, great fair food, and lots more. 207-561-8300; bangorstatefair.com

Call ahead to confirm dates, schedules, and admission prices. To submit an event for possible publication, go to: YankeeMagazine.com/submitevent

FOR HUNDREDS OF FAIRS, FESTIVALS, EXHIBITS, SHOWS, AND OTHER FUN ACTIVITIES, GO TO: YANKEEMAGAZINE.COM/EVENTS

NEW HAMPSHIRE

ATTRACTIONS

BEST LAKE CRUISING FOR FAMILIES

M/V MOUNT SUNAPEE II, Sunapee Harbor

History floats on this classic 90-minute narrated tour of Lake Sunapee—a painless way to learn about the charming harbor and the spiritualists who camped out at Blodgett Landing in the 1800s. Kids often get to steer the ship as it cruises the 10-mile-long mountain lake, past eight islands and three lighthouses, with plenty of leeway if they should take a wrong turn. Town Dock. 603-938-6465; sunapeecruises.com

BEST COVERED-BRIDGE PHOTO OP

NORTH STAR CANOE & KAYAK RENTALS, Cornish

A knockout when viewed from dry land, just imagine what the 449-foot Cornish–Windsor Bridge looks like from the water. Drift or paddle down the Connecticut River, courtesy of the oldest private outfitter on the waterway, to admire the longest 19th-century wooden covered bridge in the U.S., linking New Hampshire

and Vermont. 1356A Route 12A. 603-542-6929; kayak-canoe.com

BEST CURIO SHOP

RAVENWOOD CURIO SHOPPE, Jackson

“Curio” is defined as an interesting and unusual object. You’ll find plenty of fodder for your curiosity inside this handmade hobbit house, stuffed to the rafters with sparkly gifts, but it’s the backyard that truly dazzles, with a maze of fencing, plants, statues, and fountains, winding into secret nooks. 60 Main St. 603-383-8026; ravenwoodcurio.com

BEST GEOLOGY LESSON

RUGGLES MINE, Grafton

An endless back road digs deep into the landscape, but nothing prepares you for this “mine in the sky,” with its towering cliffs, canyons, mysterious holes, and dramatic overlooks to Mount Cardigan. Sam Ruggles kept his 1803 discovery a secret, but the ground still glitters with leftover mica, quartz, and 150 other intriguing minerals, while everywhere the tap-tap-tap of hopeful hammers rings out. Underhill Road. 603-5234275; rugglesmine.com

BEST COUNTRY DECORATING

TWIN ELM FARM, Peterborough

Thirty handpicked dealers fill Louise York’s carefully curated antiques shop, where country chic meets garden vintage, with a nod to midcentury. The pretty farmhouse and barn are strewn with airy white linens, shabby-chic cupboards, and metal garden furniture—enough to inspire a serious case of cottage envy. 133 Wilton Road (Route 101). 603-784-5341; twinelmfarm.com

BEST CRAFTS FAIR

ANNUAL LEAGUE OF NH CRAFTSMEN FAIR, Newbury

Craftspeople overrun the foothills of Mount Sunapee for this annual crafts-fair blowout, oldest and best in the country. For nine days in August, 350 of the country’s best artisans pitch a tent city and show us everything they’ve got. 1398 Route 103. 603-763-3500; nhcrafts.org

BEST RESTORED THEATRE

THE COLONIAL THEATRE, Keene

Just cruising past its 90th anniversary, the historic 1924 stage has embraced performers and celebrities of every stripe, from vaudevillians to Amelia Earhart. A dedicated restoration brought this grande dame back to life, and since 1995 it’s hosted more than 350 live performances, entertaining us with the likes of Lyle Lovett, NPR royalty, dance ensembles, and first-rate films. 95 Main St. 603-357-1233; thecolonial.org

LODGING

BEST HISTORIC AMC HUT CARTER NOTCH HUT, Wildcat Mountain, Jackson

The Appalachian Mountain Club calls this rustic beauty in a wildly pretty setting its best-kept secret. This year it turns 100—making it the AMC’s oldest hut. From a steep climb up Carter Dome to trout fishing in nearby Wind Lakes, the hut is ideally sited for your exploration of Wildcat and the Carter range. We only hope to be this lovely, inside and out, when we hit our centennial. Summer rates: from $81 AMC members, $98 nonmembers. 603-466-2727; outdoors.org/lodging/ huts/carter

BEST COVERED-BRIDGE PHOTO OP: NORTH STAR CANOE & KAYAK RENTALS, Cornish (listing above)

BEST FARMHOUSE LUXURY

HIGHLAND LAKE INN B&B, Andover

Porch sitting could become a habit here, and strolling a full-time occupation. The Northern Rail Trail skims by, with miles of walking, biking, and cross-country skiing at hand, plus a private beach. Pretty grounds and an indulgent breakfast make this 1767 B&B everything a gentleman farmer could hope for. Rates: from $170. 32 Maple St. 603-735-6426; highlandlakeinn.com

BEST NORTH WOODS SPORTING CAMPS

CABINS AT LOPSTICK & TALL TIMBER LODGE, Pittsburg

The Great North Woods deserves equally great pit stops (that is to say, rugged and beautiful). The lakeside “cabins” at these two sporting camps pull out the stops when it comes to rustic chic: great views, grills, satellite TV. With professional guides on hand, you’re never far from moose, fly fishing, paddling, or hiking. Rates: from $100 Lopstick, $65 Tall Timber. Lopstick, 45 Stewart Young Road. 800-538-6659; cabinsat lopstick.com. Tall Timber Lodge, 609 Beach Road. 603-538-6651; talltimber.com

BEST FAMILY RETREAT BY A POND

LOCH LYME LODGE, Lyme

For nearly 100 years, generations of families have frolicked on Loch Lyme’s large lawn and

small beach, sheltering in the property’s 20 shingled cabins and dining in a clapboard lodge, making memories and stirring up nostalgia from May to October. Rates: from $160. 70 Orford Road. 603-795-2141; lochlymelodge.com

BEST B&B ESCAPE

COLBY HILL INN, Henniker

Part inn, part highly regarded restaurant, with a little romance stirred in, this historic 1797 property operated as Bartlett’s Tavern. More recently (since 2003), it’s been a consistent Wine Spectator Award of Excellence winner. A touch of rusticity meets comfy elegance in the inn’s décor, especially in the carriage-house suites, complete with whirlpools and decks. Rates: from $155. 33 The Oaks St. 603-428-3281; colbyhillinn.com

BEST CAMPGROUND SWIMMING

WHITE LAKE STATE PARK, Tamworth

New Hampshire has plenty of reasons to thank the glaciers, but White Lake ranks high, with some of the best swimming in the White Mountains, a wide and sandy beach, big playgrounds, and a family campground. Our Yankee lake critic says, “I’m a total lake snob. I can’t swim in most lakes. This one I could.” Camping rates: from $25. 94 State Park Road. 603-323-7350; nhstate parks.org

BEST HISTORIC INN & FARM VACATION

THE INN AT VALLEY FARMS, Walpole

Here’s a 105-acre family-friendly organic farm with guestrooms, cottages, and even a rental farmhouse. Get a taste of the farm experience (gather eggs! pet cashmere goats!) and then retire to your pretty, antiques-filled bedroom. In the morning, get fortified with a candlelit, three-course, farmto-table breakfast. Rates: from $195. 633 Wentworth Road. 603-756-2855; innatvalleyfarms.com

DINING

BEST BURGER

TUCKAWAY TAVERN & BUTCHERY, Raymond

The burgers are crafted of Angus beef, ground fresh each day—but there’s no skimping on BBQ, pork, bacon, bison, or steak tips, either. Hearty fare is what you get—poutine, smashed potatoes, beerbattered onion rings, baked beans—with alternatives such as roasted veggies drizzled with fontina. Burgers: from $9.50. Entrées: from $14. 58 Route 27. 603-244-2431; thetuckaway.com

BEST THIN-CRUST PIZZA

CRUSH PIZZA, Nashua

A superhot wood-fired oven (900°) bakes these ultra-fresh custom pies in 90 seconds. Super-

model-thin crust, fresh veggies from local sources, mouth-watering toppings like truffle cream, and ingredients from Italy yield soft (not cracker-like), oozy goodness and yummy char on the dough. Pizzas: from $8.95. 449 Amherst St. 603-5217440; crushpizza.com

BEST FARM CAFE

HILLTOP CAFÉ, Wilton

You can’t get more farm-to-table than at this café/farm tucked into a warm 1765 house, with its stunning hilltop setting, roaming chickens, and flaky croissants. Sidestep the modern rush with fresh yogurt and deliciously creative dishes, like Israeli eggs, plus friendly owners who keep the young, happy vibe alive. Breakfast/lunch: from $6.50. 195 Isaac Frye Highway. 603-6542223; hilltopcafenh.com

BEST GELATO

MORANO GELATO, Hanover

We’re in trouble. Or would be, if we lived within a 20-mile radius of such heavenly temptation. The freshly-made-each-morning Sicilian gelato here comes in bright flavors that are shockingly delicious: Florentine cream, hazelnut, pistachio, and dark chocolate, with sorbettos like raspberry and Concord grape that startle the tongue. Our professional opinion: Sample many and often. Small gelato (two flavors): $3.25.

57 South Main St. 603-643-4233; moranogelato hanover.com

BEST SUNDAY BRUNCH

THE RESTAURANT AT BURDICK’S, Walpole Filmmaker Ken Burns calls this pretty village home, and the elegant restaurant here rivals any Brooklyn hotspot. With Burdick’s award-winning chocolate shop attached to this Parisian-style eatery, it’s perfect for lingering over the Sunday Times and a plate of charcuterie. Entrées: from $13. 47 Main St. 603-756-9058; burdickchocolate.com

BEST OLD-WORLD DINING

OMNI MOUNT WASHINGTON RESORT, Bretton Woods

With views of its namesake peak and the Presidential Range, you barely need to squint to re-imagine the days of Gilded Age splendor at this massive 1902 luxury resort. Much that’s served in its airy palazzo-style main dining room is locally sourced, but it’s also worth a trip down under to The Cave —a Prohibition-era speakeasy that doubles as a sports bar. Entrées: from $32. 310 Mount Washington Road. 603-278-1000; omnihotels.com

BEST NEW BREW SCHILLING BEER COMPANY, Littleton “Bready,” “toffee”—just a few notes that have beer nerds toasting this cozy, urbane brewery over-

hanging the Ammonoosuc River. The converted mill building is strung with lights, bright umbrellas dot the balcony like mixed-drink decorations, and the wood-burning oven releases a happy procession of Neapolitan flatbread pizzas. But it’s the artisanal brews—smoked-wheat beer or Foy IPA—that keep the fans hoppy. Pizzas: from $8. 18 Mill St. 603-444-4800; schillingbeer.com

BEST NEW CHOCOLATIER

VICUÑA CHOCOLATE FACTORY & CAFÉ, Peterborough

Food Network winner, chocolatier, and pastry chef Neely Cohen has traveled to Europe and the Amazon to study chocolate, and what she shares with us—handcrafted salt-, yellow chili–, and nibsflavored chocolate bars—is food of the cacao gods. The café setting is as delicious as the 70% organic Fair Trade bars, created from scratch in her onview “factory” in the back. Bars: $10 each. 15 Main St. 603-924-2040; vicunachocolate.com

BEST BISTRO

LIBBY’S BISTRO & SAALT PUB, Gorham

The Gorham streets are alive with ATVs, but traffic slows around the pretty block that shelters this super-hip bistro. Chef/owner Liz Jackson was a 2012 James Beard semifinalist, but

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she just wants to “cook good food for people.” French mussels, Turkish eggplant, and Faroe Island salmon are a small, lively sample. Entrées: from $12 (pub), $25 (Libby’s, three courses). 111 Main St. 603-466-5330; libbysbistro.org

BARGAINS

BEST SEASONAL BARGAIN BOOKSHOP

KYES–SAGE BOOK SHOP, Peterborough

As laid-back as a hammock, Kyes–Sage turns its lights on from April to November, three days a week. Housed in a historic New Englander with Gothic flourishes beside the town’s library, and staffed by volunteers, the shop prices most books at $2 or less, making it a beach reader’s bonanza. 14 Concord St. 603-203-1794

BEST FREE MUSEUM

HOOD MUSEUM OF ART, Hanover

Dartmouth shares its art—65,000 pieces from one of the largest college collections in the U.S.—without charging a dime. With works ranging from ancient to modern, Asian to American to West African, plus stunners such as José Clemente Orozco murals and 9th-century Assyrian reliefs from the palace of Ashurnasirpal II. 4 East Wheelock St. 603-646-2808; hoodmuseum.dartmouth.edu

BEST DISCOUNT BRITISH CLOTHING

BARBOUR OUTLET, Milford

Deep discounts plus no sales tax bring this classic, 120-year-old British clothing line well within reach of sporty mortals. Scoop up waxed jackets and wellies (just like Duchess Kate’s) at the U.S. headquarters, which houses an outlet store, a warehouse, and a repair shop where devotees send their coats from around the country. 55 Meadowbrook Drive. 603-673-1313; barbour.com

BEST RAINY-DAY FLEA MARKET

FAIRGROUNDS ANTIQUES, Swanzey

On any given day, you’ll find bargains galore at the Cheshire Fairgrounds collective, where 85 dealers create enough chaos to keep antiques hounds busy for hours. But you’ll score serious deals in the weeks before the Cheshire Fair in mid-October, when dealers have to pack up their booths for the incoming fair exhibits. 249 Monadnock Highway. 603-352-4420

BEST NEW OUTLET BARGAINS MERRIMACK PREMIUM OUTLETS, Merrimack

The state’s newest super-outlet offers savings of up to 65% on 100 brand names, including Nike, J.Crew, and Under Armour. But besides the standard New Hampshire bonus of no sales tax, Merrimack Outlets offers a VIP coupon book to veterans, military, and their families, and a

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Glass Vase by Robert Burch

SPOTLIGHT: SEACOAST

of the ancient fireplace. Rates: from $149 midweek, $199 weekends. 17 Newmarket Road. 603-868-7800; threechimneysinn.com

BEST GARDEN LOVER’S B&B

MARTIN HILL INN, Portsmouth

A 19th-century antiques-draped B&B with hidden gardens tucked in the back, this warm retreat will test your knowledge of perennials and provide inspiration for your own backyard. The mixed neighborhood of historic residences and convenience stores is a short walk from town—and the inn’s creative breakfast, from banana-nut waffles to gluten-free options (request in advance), will stoke you up for the easy stroll. Rates: from $180. 404 Islington St. 603-436-2287; martinhillinn.com

ATTRACTIONS

BEST SUMMER CONCERTS

PRESCOTT PARK, Portsmouth

Music meets water at Portsmouth’s waterfront on the Piscataqua River, and outdoor concerts fill the night air with the sweet sounds of Taj Mahal, Mary Chapin Carpenter, and an impressive roster of summer headliners. 105 Marcy St. 603-436-2848; prescottpark.org

BEST COASTAL STATE PARK

ODIORNE POINT STATE PARK

& SEACOAST SCIENCE CENTER, Rye

Rocky coasts, remnants of old World War II bunkers, and a kid-centric science center with a dangling humpback whale skeleton populate this gem of a park, with 330 trail-crossed acres on the ocean. Picnics are practically mandatory, and tidepool explorations a must. 570 Ocean Blvd. 603-227-8722; nhstateparks.org

BEST HARBOR TOUR

PORTSMOUTH HARBOR CRUISES, Portsmouth

Small, intimate cruises aboard M/V Heritage condense 400 years of harbor history into an hour and a quarter. Leaving from the downtown, cruising past lighthouses, historic forts, and mansions, to the edge of the Atlantic and back, here’s history the way we all want to learn it, flavored with humor and scenery. Sunset cruises and monthly wine tastings, plus longer cruises to the Isles of Shoals, nine lore-ridden islands six miles off the coast, are also on tap. 64 Ceres St. 603-436-8084; portsmouthharbor.com

BEST COASTAL BOTANICAL GARDEN

FULLER GARDENS, North Hampton

If variety is the spice of life, it also makes for an eye-catching botanical garden at this turn-

of-the-last-century summer estate in a neighborhood of mansions just off scenic Route 1A, which hugs the Atlantic. Former Massachusetts governor Alvan T. Fuller liked his formal English perennials and masses of roses, but he was fond of Japanese gardens, too. There’s also plenty of inspiration for sculpted hedges, and a gift shop that sells take-away summer memories. May to October. 10 Willow Ave. 603-9645414; fullergardens.org

LODGING

BEST HISTORIC MANSION

THE HOTEL PORTSMOUTH, Portsmouth

Formerly the Sise Inn, this 32-room 1881 mansion was rehabbed by the former owners of Portsmouth’s Ale House Inn and newly reopened in April 2014. Dulcet tones of taupe and gray, the clean lines of modern furniture, and a luxuriously stress-free B&B vibe, all just a few blocks from Market Square and the breezy waterfront, would surely have caught the eye of its original owner, ship merchant John Sise. Rates: from $199 (deluxe queen in season). 40 Court St. 603-433-1200; thehotel portsmouth.com

BEST REALLY OLD WORLD CHARM

THREE CHIMNEYS INN, Durham

A profusion of armoires, oriental rugs, carved fireplaces, and ornate canopy beds … This 1649 homestead is the oldest in Durham, and just a five-minute walk to the University of New Hampshire campus. With 23 ornately pretty rooms divvied up between the main inn and the 1795 carriage house, expect massive beams, wide-board pine floors, and an onsite tavern that occupies two floors, with a massive chimney running through. On a cold night, ask for the intimate nook downstairs in front

DINING

BEST FARM-TO-TABLE ELEGANCE

BLACK TRUMPET BISTRO, Portsmouth

Brick-warm ambience, artful cuisine, and a Wine Spectator Award of Excellence make this cozy Mediterranean bistro/wine bar on pretty Ceres Street an inviting nook where you can nibble on foraged mushrooms, local seafood, and assorted paellas that flirt with Moroccan, Turkish, and Spanish influences. Medium dishes: from $10. Entrées: from $18. 29 Ceres St. 603-431-0887; blacktrumpetbistro.com

BEST GRAND-RESORT LUNCH SPOT

SALT KITCHEN & BAR, New Castle

Glittering like an ocean liner, the legendary Wentworth by the Sea resort has dominated this bluff overlooking the water since 1874. Far more modern is its take on cuisine at SALT, an elegant study in deep-sea and powdery blues that’s surprisingly affordable. Dine under the rotunda or out on the deck, or cluster at the sleek bar, but do indulge in “hand-spun” pasta, or a rustica pizza that oozes mozzarella, pesto, and grilled chicken. Flatbreads: from $13. Pasta (half portion): from $13. 588 Wentworth Road. 603-422-7322; wentworth.com

BEST CLAM SHACK

MARKEY’S LOBSTER POOL, Seabrook

Owner Tom Markey presides over the deepfryers and steamers, cooking up fresh lobsters, clams, scallops, shrimp, and haddock since 1971. Bring your fiercest appetite and dine on a deck over the tidal Blackwater River, where you’ll spot locals digging for clams. You don’t have to abstain in winter: open Friday to Sunday in the off-season. Boxed fried clams: from $11.50. Seafood plate: $22.50. 420 Route 286. 603-474-2851; markeyslobsterpool.com

BEST HARBOR TOUR: PORTSMOUTH HARBOR CRUISES, Portsmouth (listing below)

PHOTO: ROB KAROSIS

» HISTORIC HIGHLIGHT

BEST OLD-TIME SUMMER STOCK

OOR

BEST BERRY PICKING

MONADNOCK BERRIES, Troy

10% discount on Tuesdays at stores like Banana Republic and Le Creuset if you’re over 50. Age has its benefits. 80 Premium Outlets Blvd. 603424-0050; premiumoutlets.com

CLASSICS

» HISTORIC HIGHLIGHT

BEST CLASSIC AMUSEMENT PARK

CANOBIE LAKE PARK, Salem (1902)

From its early days as a “pleasure resort” in 1902, with canoeing and a botanical garden, Canobie Lake has evolved into a classic amusement park with 85 rides, games and attractions, and actual fear-factor ratings. Thrill rides, such as the Corkscrew Coaster and the Starblaster (shuttle lift-off meets bungee jumping) demand intrepid commitment; family rides like Crazy Cups and Dodgem bumper cars let your pulse rate recover. 85 North Policy St. 603-893-3506; canobie.com

» HISTORIC HIGHLIGHT

BEST EASY SCENIC WALK

THE FLUME, Lincoln (1808)

The setting is certainly dramatic: 90-foot cliffs, cascading falls, and the cool dampness of a primordial forest. But there’s also something appealingly Swiss Family Robinson –like about the network of cliff-hugging boardwalks clinging to the walls of this deep granite beauty at the base of Mount Liberty. 852 Daniel Webster Highway. 603823-8800; cannonmt.com/flumegorge.html

» HISTORIC HIGHLIGHT

BEST WHITE-KNUCKLE VISTA

MOUNT WASHINGTON AUTO ROAD, Gorham (1861)

New England’s highest peak—6,288 feet— Mount Washington claims some of the world’s worst weather and the second-highest wind speed ever recorded. The eight-mile drive to the top is a hair-raiser; drop-away vistas on fair-weather days are stupendous, with visibility up to 130 miles and views of New York and the Atlantic. Bonus: The summit’s Extreme Mount Washington museum at the Mount Washington Observatory explores the nitty-gritty of the mountain’s subzero, hurricane-force drama. Road open May to October, depending on weather. 603-466-3988; mountwashington autoroad.com; mountwashington.org/education/ extreme

THE BARNSTORMERS THEATRE, Tamworth (1931)

The Barnstormers is one of the oldest professional summer theatres in the country, operating since 1931, and it’s the only one that goes for a breakneck eight plays in eight weeks. Classics (The Glass Menagerie), kids’ fare (Toad of Toad Hall ), and comedy (Ken Ludwig’s Be My Baby) are this company’s “stock” in trade, and the old converted Main Street storefront rings with laughter and applause during the July/August marathon. 104 Main St. 603-323-8500; barn stormerstheatre.org

» HISTORIC HIGHLIGHT

BEST PANCAKE & MAPLE EXPERIENCE

POLLY’S PANCAKE PARLOR, Sugar Hill (1938)

Pancakes, views, and most especially views of pancakes: You’ll be in blueberry buckwheat heaven at this family-owned institution, which has been flipping delectable discs for 75 years. Polly’s has come a long way from its humble beginnings in a woodshed, and inaugurates a new building in 2015 to accommodate the 58,000 pilgrims who make the trek to tiny, aptly named Sugar Hill each year. Six 3-inch pancakes: $7.99. 672 Sugar Hill Road (Route 117). 603-823-8849; pollyspancakeparlor.com

The expansive setting, with majestic Mount Monadnock in the foreground, is as delicious as the grape-sized blueberries clustered on row after row of bushes. The rustic café/gift shop provides a quick pick-me-up before you hit the outdoors for a full range of PYO delectables: gooseberries, currants, and blackberries, oh my. 545 West Hill Road. 603-242-6417; monadnock berries.com

BEST MOOSE WATCHING MOOSE ALLEY, Pittsburg

The state’s most impressive inhabitants are often found in some of its prettiest, wildest countryside in the White Mountains and Great North Woods. For best chance of a sighting, follow the Moose Path Trail: Take Route 16 north from Gorham to Errol; then Route 26 to Dixville Notch; then U.S. 3 north to Pittsburg. Professional guides will be happy to take you out, too.

BEST FOLIAGE RETREAT

SQUAM LAKE INN, Holderness

When fall blazes across the countryside, it’s like a clash of beautiful titans, a riot of red, orange, yellow. Pick a spot, any spot, but why not the Lakes Region? How about a setting so gorgeous that On Golden Pond was filmed there? Bingo, Squam Lake—second-largest in the state. And there’s no better base camp than the Squam Lake Inn, renowned for its gourmet breakfasts and a restaurant that’s open to the public for lunch and dinner. Fresh local ingredients elevate the menu, but homemade ice-cream sandwiches make the perfect fall treat. 28 Shepard Hill Road. 603-968-4417; squamlakeinn.com

BEST BIKE TRAIL

NORTHERN RAIL TRAIL, Lebanon to Boscawen

Kudos to this 50+-mile stretch: It’s been added to “100 Top Trails in the U.S.” by the Rails-toTrails Conservancy in Washington, D.C. The longest rail trail in the state and still growing, thanks to its devoted volunteers, it glides past farms, orchards, lakes, mill sites, and covered bridges, with possible moose sightings in Grafton and Orange. northernrailtrail.org

BEST YEAR-ROUND

CHRISTMAS-TREE FARM

THE ROCKS ESTATE, Bethlehem

Balsam firs stretch to the horizon at the 1,400acre Rocks Estate, a Christmas-tree farm extraordinaire in the White Mountains, and former home of International Harvester co-founder John Jacob Glessner. Though the two mansions are long gone, many historic buildings remain. His heirs deeded the estate to the Society for the Protection of New Hampshire Forests, which today offers programs on everything from vernal pools to wild turkeys to maple sugaring—plus tours, carriage rides, and trail open year-round. 4 Christmas Lane. 603-444-6228; therocks.org

BEST BERRY PICKING: MONADNOCK BERRIES, Troy (listing above, top right)

TOP 20 NEW HAMPSHIRE EVENTS

MAY 3 & 8, JUNE 3: PORTSMOUTH, Writers on a New England Stage. Bestselling authors David Brooks, Sue Monk Kidd, and Diana Gabaldon present their latest books and are interviewed live on stage at The Music Hall by New Hampshire Public Radio host Virginia Prescott. 603-436-2400; themusichall.org

MAY 9–10: DEERFIELD, Annual Sheep & Wool Festival. The Deerfield Fairgrounds host sheep and breed shows, shearing, knitting, and weaving demos and competitions, along with more than 100 select fiber-related vendors, good food, music, and more. nhswga.org

MAY 15–17: CENTER HARBOR, 33rd Winni Fishing Derby. Anglers of all ages compete for the biggest catch on Lake Winnipesaukee. More than $50,000 in cash and prizes will be awarded, and even the “losers” come away with great stories of the ones that got away. 603-848-3474; winniderby.com

MAY 16: PETERBOROUGH, 2 2nd Children & the Arts Festival. The downtown streets are closed to vehicles but bustling nonetheless with activities for anyone who loves art and children—including a giant puppet parade, music, dancing, an art walk, and great food, of course. childrenandthearts.org

MAY 16: WINDHAM, Searles Castle 100th Anniversary. A gala evening of history, dinner, and dancing marks the centennial of the completion of the castle, where such dignitaries as Calvin Coolidge and Henry Cabot Lodge were once entertained. 603-890-0458; searles castlewindham.com

MAY 24: JACKSON, Wildquack Duck River Festival. Put your money on one of 3,500 rubber duckies floating downriver in a race to the finish line. Plus, don’t miss the children’s duck parade and pony rides, the silent auction, the bake sale, the “Cake Boss” competition, the obstacle course, and other activities, all within Jackson Village Park. jacksonnh.com

MAY 30–31: MOUNT WASHINGTON VALLEY, Herb, Food & Beer Tour. Savor the flavors of spring in the White Mountains during this tour of breweries, farms, a chocolatier, and 10 of the area’s premier inns, with demonstrations, information, instruction, and lots of samples. countryinnsinthewhitemountains.com

JUNE 6: PORTSMOUTH, 31st Annual Chowder Festival. You be the judge as you sample more than a dozen offerings: some 500 gallons of chowder in all at this signature event at Prescott Park. Great eats, live music, and a gorgeous seaside setting make for a winning combination. prescottpark.org

JUNE 6: PORTSMOUTH, Old House Festival. Workshops, demonstrations, and presentations on the grounds of the historic Moffatt–Ladd House will cover a range of conservation and restoration topics, with kids’ activities, an heirloom plant sale, and even a free concert, as well. 603-430-7968; moffattladd.org

JUNE 6–21: FRANCONIA NOTCH, 22nd Annual Celebration of Lupines. Tour the blooming lupine fields on foot or in a horse-drawn wagon and take in art exhibits, concerts, walking tours, an open-air market, specialty dinners at local inns, and a variety of promotions at local businesses and museums. 603823-5661; franconianotch.org

JUNE 13: PORTSMOUTH, Market Square Day. This single-day event celebrates the renovation of downtown Portsmouth and attracts quite a crowd. More than 60,000 people are expected for a day of fun, food, and entertainment, courtesy of more than 100 artisans, merchants, crafters, and musicians. 603-4334398; proportsmouth.org

JUNE 13–21: LACONIA, Motorcycle Week. Enjoy breathtaking motorcycle rides along winding roads, past stunning lake vistas, and atop historic byways such as the Kancamagus Highway, with all roads leading back to Weirs Beach for concerts, special ride events, races, vintage bike shows, and more, all week long. laconiamcweek.com

JUNE 17–AUG. 19: NELSON/SULLIVAN, Apple Hill Chamber Concert Series. Take in a free Tuesday evening concert at the Nelson campus barn. Featuring the Apple Hill String Quartet and its renowned summer-workshop faculty. 603847-3371; applehill.org

JUNE 18–20: HAMPTON, 15th Master Sand Sculpting Competition. What do you get when 10 world-class sand sculptors put their creativity to the test on Hampton Beach? You just have to see for yourself. For a real treat, come late and enjoy the sculptures illuminated for night viewing. 603-926-8717; hamptonbeach.org

JUNE 24: PORTSMOUTH, Taste of the Nation. Eat well, and for a good cause, as restaurants come together beneath big-top tents on the

JUNE 6–7: CHARLESTOWN, French & Indian War Encampment. The sights and sounds of the 18th-century conflict come alive at the reconstructed Fort at No. 4. Visit French, British, and Native camps, observe mock battles and military drills, and learn from blacksmithing, spinning, and cooking demonstrations. 603-826-5700; fortat4.org

grounds of Strawbery Banke Museum for a celebration of the Seacoast’s best food and drink. ce.nokidhungry.org/events/taste-nationportsmouth

JUNE 26–28: LINCOLN, New England Brewfest. At the Lincoln Village Shops, tap into more than 100 exceptional beers and ales from 33 breweries. Enjoy live entertainment and craftbeer educational presentations, plus delicious foods and exhibits offering brew paraphernalia and souvenirs. nebrewfest.com

JUNE 27–28: GILSUM, 50th Rock Swap & Mineral Show. Come rain or shine, the weather is always right to pan for minerals, visit the diamond dig, and enjoy an old-fashioned New England ham-and-beans dinner. More than 65 dealers offer gems, jewelry, and minerals from around the world. Held at the Elementary School and Community Center. gilsum .org/rockswap

JULY 9–12: HILLSBOROUGH, Hillsborough Balloon Festival & Fair. In the mood for a high-flying adventure? Check out the hot-air balloons piloted by regional enthusiasts at the fairgrounds off Henniker Street. Plus, don’t miss the additional festivities, including artisans, a hometown parade, fireworks, and more. 603-464-0377; balloonfestival.org

AUG. 1–9: NEWBURY, 82nd League of New Hampshire Craftsmen’s Fair. Mount Sunapee Resort hosts a show of fantastic works by 350 juried League members, with demonstrations, interactive activities, music, and a variety of food vendors to boot. 603-224-3375; nhcrafts .org

Call ahead to confirm dates, schedules, and admission prices. To submit an event for possible publication, go to: YankeeMagazine.com/submitevent

FOR HUNDREDS OF FAIRS, FESTIVALS, EXHIBITS, SHOWS, AND OTHER FUN ACTIVITIES, GO TO: YANKEEMAGAZINE.COM/EVENTS

VERMONT

ATTRACTIONS

BEST ONE-STOP SAMPLING

NORTHEAST KINGDOM TASTING CENTER, Newport

In the state that practically coined the term “locavore,” here’s the place for sampling and buying edibles and potables from throughout the Northeast Kingdom. From ice cider to artisanal cheeses, maple-flavored rum to exquisite pastries, it’s all here in downtown Newport. Don’t miss the Newport Ciderhouse Bar & Grill on the premises. 150 Main St. 802-3341790; nektastingcenter.com

BEST LAKESIDE RESORT: BASIN HARBOR CLUB, Vergennes (listing on p. 142)

» HISTORIC HIGHLIGHT

BEST YEAR-ROUND THEATRE

DORSET THEATRE FESTIVAL, Dorset (Playhouse, 1929)

It’s two playhouses in one: In summer, the Dorset Theatre Festival calls on professional Broadway talent to stage recent Tony winners, old favorites, and world premieres; off-season, the Dorset Players continue a nearly 90-year tradition of fine amateur theatre in this posh but laid-back village. 104 Cheney Road. 802-867-2223; dorset theatrefestival.org; dorsetplayers.org

BEST MUSEUM MAKEOVER

BENNINGTON MUSEUM, Bennington

What do folk artist Grandma Moses and abstract artist Helen Frankenthaler have in common? How about a 1920s Martin Wasp automobile and works by contemporary sculptor Sir Anthony Caro? They’re examples of the museum’s new direction, dubbed “creative collisions,” which juxtapose traditional with modern, bringing the two together in lively confrontation. 75 Main St. 802-447-1571; bennington museum.org

BEST HORSE FARM

UNIVERSITY OF VERMONT

MORGAN HORSE FARM, Weybridge

Vermont’s state animal has a special home near Middlebury, where the strong, clean-limbed descendants of Justin Morgan, the first Morgan horse, are bred and trained. Take a guided tour of the stables; you may want to take a Morgan home, as several are always for sale. 74 Battell Drive. 802-388-2011; uvm.edu/morgan

BEST AUTO RACING

THUNDER ROAD SPEEDBOWL, East Barre

Vermont may be the land of prim little hybrids and mini-SUVs, but it does boast at least one spot where raw power rules. From late April through early October, families pack the stands at Thunder Road as some of the region’s best drivers compete in a full schedule of stock-car races. 80 Fisher Road. 802-244-6963; thunderroadspeed bowl.com

BEST INTERNATIONAL CRUISE

NORTHERN STAR CRUISES, Newport

All aboard for a cruise on big, border-straddling Lake Memphremagog. Passengers may select from a variety of cruises (no passport required) or one that includes a chairlift ride up Quebec’s Mont Owl’s Head (bring your passport). Newport City Dock. 802-487-0234; vermontlake cruises.com

BEST DOG DESTINATION

DOG MOUNTAIN, St. Johnsbury

Let your best friend romp leashless through the fields and take a plunge in the pond; then pause for a moment of reflection at Stephen Huneck’s incomparable Dog Chapel. 143 Parks Road (off Spaulding Road). 802-748-2700; dogmt.com

VERMONT INN to INN WALKING TOUR

WALK

INN-TO-INN AND SEE VERMONT AT 10 MILES A DAY

The “Vermont Inn-to-Inn Walking Tour” is a four-day, selfguided walk averaging 10 miles a day, mainly through old country roads of gravel and through the villages of Chester, Weston and Ludlow. The four historic inns–Inn Victoria, Old Town Farm Inn, Combes Family Inn, and The Colonial House Inn–are linked by their owners’ shared love of Vermont and a commitment to their under-the-radar walking tour. The oldest and longest running tour of its kind in the state, Vermont Innto-Inn Walking Tour is well established and focused on guest safety and comfort.

It’s simple and efficient. The innkeepers transport your bags door to door, Vermont sherpa-style; greet you at the end of the day

PART 1: (9 1 miles)

INN VICTORIA TO OLD TOWN FARM INN

INN VICTORIA 321 Main St., Chester, VT 802-875-4288 InnVictoria.com

PART 2: (10 7 miles)

OLD TOWN FARM INN TO COMBES FAMILY INN

OLD TOWN FARM INN 665 Route 10, Chester, VT 802-875-2346

Otfi.com

with refreshments and a home-cooked meal; and, in the morning, send you on your way with a hearty breakfast,snacks for the road, a map of your walking route, and best wishes for a pleasant day.

A final feature that sets this tour apart from so many others? You’re on your own, so you can set your own pace. Walk alone or with friends; do as much or as little of the walk as you like. Basically, the tour is as idiosyncratic as the state in which you’re walking. Join us from mid-May through the end of October.

www.VermontInntoInnWalking.com 802-228-8799 or 802-875-4288

PART 3: (9 6 miles)

COMBES FAMILY INN TO THE COLONIAL HOUSE INN

COMBES FAMILY INN 953 East Lake Road, Ludlow, VT 802-228-8799 CombesFamilyInn.com

PART 4: (11 2 miles)

THE COLONIAL HOUSE INN TO INN VICTORIA

THE COLONIAL HOUSE INN 287 Route 100, Weston, VT 802-824-6286 CoHoInn.com

“It’s a meditative walk. Long before the village of Chester appears and I’ve come full circle, I realize that my life has become breathtakingly simple in the last few days. I walk; I look at wildflowers; I avoid poison ivy; I take a deep breath and listen to nature singing; I wonder what’s up ahead; I try to remember to look back from time to time. Occasionally I hum–and then try to get the song out of my head.

“And then I take another step. Am I closer or farther away? It’s my path, my walk. I get to decide.”

–Annie Graves, Yankee Magazine,

LODGING

BEST MOUNTAIN VISTAS

TARADEN, North Bennington

Nestled on 20 acres overlooking the Taconic Range and Green Mountains, Taradan offers three spacious suites with private baths, including one in a separate cottage. Enjoy pond and pasture views from the glassed-in breakfast room, and then climb aboard a horse-drawn carriage for a scenic tour. Rates: from $165. 183 Park St. 802-447-3434; taraden.com

BEST B & “BEE”

GOLDEN STAGE INN, Proctorsville

Julie and Michael Wood’s passion for innkeeping is evident in their loving restoration of the eight rooms of this historic lodging. They also share a love of cooking and serve homemade soup daily as well as Michael’s signature “Saturday Night Chocolate Cake” as long as it lasts. Julie’s other passion is beekeeping, and guests are served honey fresh from her hives at breakfast. Rates: from $129. 399 Depot St. 802-2267744; goldenstageinn.com

BEST SMALL RESORT

CRISANVER HOUSE, Shrewsbury

This gracious resort, complete with its own tennis court and outdoor pool, sprawls across 120 acres at a lofty 2,000 feet, offering spectacular views of the Green Mountains. The magnificently restored 200-year-old main house stands amid manicured grounds. Chef/owner Carol Calotta incorporates estate-grown herbs and vegetables into her eclectic dinner menu. Rates: from $185. 1434 Crown Point Road. 802-492-3589; crisanver.com

BEST FARM B&B

HOLLISTER HILL FARM B&B, Marshfield

Bob and Lee Light moved to Vermont in the 1970s back-to-the-land era, and in 1983 settled on this 205-acre farm. Today they milk Jersey cows, grow organic produce, operate a farm store … and welcome guests to their 1825 home. Accommodations include two sunny double rooms and a family suite, plus the “Little House” with full kitchen. Rates: from $115. 2193 Hollister Road. 802-454-7725; hollisterhillfarm.com

BEST PET FRIENDLY B&B

THE INN AT BUCK HOLLOW FARM, Fairfax

A restored 1790s carriage house with antiques and four-poster beds doesn’t sound petfriendly—but companion animals are welcome (extra fee) at this 400-acre estate 35 minutes from Burlington. There’s a 40-foot outdoor pool and jacuzzi; dinner (pizza, pasta, chili, fondue) is available by prior arrangement. Don’t miss the antiques shop. Rates: from $125. 2150 Buck Hollow Road. 802-849-2400; buckhollowcom

BEST BORDERLAND B&B

CLIFF HAVEN FARM B&B, Newport Center

Set on 300 delightfully out-of-the-way acres overlooking Lake Memphremagog (the road dead-ends just ahead at the Canadian border) this 1800s farmhouse offers four spacious rooms (three with gas fireplaces); there’s also a private pond for swimming. Rates: from $80. 5463 Lake Road. 802-334-2401; cliffhaven.net

DINING

» HISTORIC HIGHLIGHT

BEST NEW OLD STORE

J. J. HAPGOOD GENERAL STORE & EATERY, Peru (1827)

Back in 1827, J. J. Hapgood didn’t serve pizza—at least not with arugula or feta. With the store’s latest incarnation, you’ll find wood-fired pizzas, sandwiches, salads, and homemade desserts, along with breakfast, local produce, cheeses, and Vermont microbrews, all served in the beautiful shadow of Bromley Mountain. Outdoor seating is available. 305 Main St. 802-8244800; jjhapgood.com

BEST HORSE FARM: UNIVERSITY OF VERMONT MORGAN HORSE FARM, Weybridge (listing on p. 136)

BEST NEW OLD STORE: J. J. HAPGOOD GENERAL STORE & EATERY, Peru (listing below)

SPOTLIGHT: LAKE CHAMPLAIN

ATTRACTIONS

BEST PLACE TO LEARN THE LAKE

ECHO LAKE AQUARIUM & SCIENCE CENTER, Burlington

America’s “Sixth Great Lake” and environs are the focus of this waterfront resource, where visitors come face to face with Champlain’s denizens. Learn about the area’s ecological history, shipwrecks, and of course the legendary monster, “Champ.” (The name stands for Ecology, Culture, History, and Opportunity.) 1 College St. 802-864-1848; echovermont.org

BEST BROWSING

BTV FLEA, Burlington

The city’s burgeoning South End Arts District hosts a bustling flea market on the third Sunday of each month from May through October, featuring antiques, handicrafts, artwork, brewery tours and tastings, and lots of food. 180 Flynn Ave. 802-488-5766; vintageinspired.net

BEST BICYCLING

BURLINGTON & COLCHESTER

BIKE PATHS

Cyclists skirt the city shoreline, cross the Winooski River, and connect with suburban Colchester’s own bike trail. The fun really begins as the route heads out onto Lake Champlain along a 3½-mile former railroad causeway. A seasonal bike ferry links with scenic roads threading the Champlain Islands. 802-8640123; enjoyburlington.com/parks/bikepath1.cfm (Burlington Dept. of Parks & Recreation). 802861-2700; localmotion.org (ferry information and bike rentals)

LODGING

BEST HISTORIC HOSTELRY

SHOREHAM INN & PUB, Shoreham

Not all guests arrive by bike, although this 200+-year-old inn draws cyclists enjoying gentle Champlain Valley terrain. Vermont crafts and furnishings fill 10 cozy rooms and suites, and a British-inspired gastropub is provisioned by local suppliers of everything from apples to ale. Rates: from $145. 51 Inn Road. 802-897-5081; shorehaminn.com

BEST NEW B&B

MADE INN VERMONT, Burlington

Luxe B&B or micro-hotel? Burlington’s newest inn blends 19th- and 20th-century styles —including for-sale Vermont artworks—in a classic, cupola-topped Victorian mansion.

Enjoy gel-topped mattresses, in-room fridges stocked with local delicacies, a sauna, and an outdoor hot tub. Beer and wine are available. Rates: from $225. 204 South Willard St. 802399-2788; madeinnvermont.com

» HISTORIC HIGHLIGHT

BEST INN ON THE ISLANDS

NORTH HERO HOUSE, North Hero (1891)

No small inn sits closer to Lake Champlain than this serene spot, in business since 1891. Twenty-six rooms and suites feature amenities such as fireplaces and screened-porch hammocks. Fine and casual dining options include a new lakeside “Steamship Pier” bar and grille. Rates: from $125. 3643 Route 2. 802372-4732; northherohouse.com

DINING

BEST LOCAVORE MENU STARRY NIGHT CAFÉ, Ferrisburgh

The emphasis on local sourcing here extends even to floral centerpieces and hand-blown glassware—but most important are the local produce, meats, and dairy products that go into one of the region’s most creative menus. Succulent pork loin is brined in Vermont cider before grilling; beef is from Grass Roots Farm in nearby Charlotte. Entrées: from $25. 5371 Route 7. 802-877-6316; starrynight cafe.com

BEST SPOT AT SUNSET SPLASH AT THE BOATHOUSE, Burlington

To end the day or start the evening, order a drink and an appetizer and watch the sun set over Lake Champlain and the Adirondacks at the Queen City’s only floating waterfront restaurant. Order a couple of the house-special “Rock the Docks” cocktails and you might even see the Caribbean-green flash. Entrées: from $10.95. College St. 802-658-2244; splash attheboathouse.com

BEST ISLANDS BISTRO

BLUE PADDLE BISTRO, South Hero

Phoebe Bright and Mandy Hotchkiss have made this intimate, casual spot a Champlain Islands destination. Favorites include coffeecrusted pork tenderloin and butternut squash–stuffed ravioli. There’s also a lighter bar menu. Entrées: from $15. 316 Route 2. 802-372-4814; bluepaddlebistro.com

BEST ISLANDS BISTRO: BLUE PADDLE BISTRO, South Hero (listing above right)

BEST LOCAVORE MENU: STARRY NIGHT CAFÉ, Ferrisburgh (listing below left) BEST ISLANDS BISTRO:

PADDLE BISTRO, South Hero (listing right)

BEST BAKERY LUNCH

CRAZY RUSSIAN GIRLS BAKERY, Bennington

It’s more than a bakery. Fresh-from-the-oven rolls might cradle a Vietnamese chicken bánh mì sandwich; there’s also maple-sauced pulled pork and Vermont cheddar–stuffed soft baguettes. Desserts are fantasies of pastry, chocolate, and butter cream. Friday is Peasant Lunch Day, featuring hearty Eastern European fare. 443 Main St. 802-442-4688

BEST FRENCH FARE

BRASSERIE L’OUSTAU, Manchester Center

The earthy, satisfying cuisine of Provence will keep you coming back for seconds at this alwayswarm and intimate authentic brasserie. Favorites include coq au vin, stewed rabbit, house-cured duck confit … and of course, steak frites. Plats du jour and three-course prix fixe offered. Entrées: from $25. 1716 Depot St. 802-768-8538; brasserie loustau.com

BEST ECLECTIC DINING

THE LOBBY, Middlebury

Local meats, produce, and baked goods, plus a downtown location right on Otter Creek, all play starring roles here. Try a báhn mì pork burger at lunch; dinner might build around ricotta gnocchi or lemon-roasted game hen. You’ll find lots of vegetarian options, and a well-crafted wine list that tops out at $35 per bottle. Entrées: from $16. 7 Bakery Lane. 802-989-7463; lobbyrestaurant vt.com

BEST CARIBBEAN CUISINE

MELAZA CARIBBEAN BISTRO, Woodstock

Woodstock meets the islands. The Puerto Rico–born chef at this cheery little spot serves up empanadas, plantain chips, and entrées such as mussels in Cuban creole sauce, jerk mahi-mahi, and pork shank with guava glaze. Rum, naturally, rules the cocktail lineup. Outdoor seating is available. Entrées: from $17. 71 Central St. 802-457-7110; melazabistro.com

BEST STOWE DINING

BISTRO AT TEN ACRES LODGE, Stowe

It’s a casual bistro at a popular lodging spot that boasts mountain views and a fireside lounge, but the real draw is a menu ranging from barbecued pork shank to Vietnamese grilled shrimp. Burgers? Buns, chips, even mustard and pickles are all house-made. Fresh-pressed cocktails are a house specialty. Entrées: from $18. 14 Barrows Road. 802-253-6838; tenacreslodge.com

BEST SEASONAL MENU

MICHAEL’S ON THE HILL, Waterbury

Thirty local farms supply provender, and chef

Michael Kloeti brings his Swiss homeland’s exacting standards to this award-winning restaurant in an 1820 farmhouse. Menus follow the seasons and might include house-made duck prosciutto or chicken with heirloom tomatoes and foraged mushrooms. Finish with a Vermont

artisanal-cheese plate. Entrées: from $27. 4182 Waterbury–Stowe Road (Route 100). 802-2447476; michaelsonthehill.com

BEST OCEAN FRESH FARE

JEFF’S MAINE SEAFOOD, St. Albans

Proving that a landlocked state doesn’t have to fall short when it comes to seafood, Jeff’s has been serving ocean-fresh fish and shellfish for 25 years. Favorites include clam chowder, grilled swordfish, and pecan-crusted salmon. Meat, poultry, and pasta, too. Entrées: from $20. 65 North Main St. 802-524-6135; jeffsmaine seafoodrestaurant.com

BARGAINS

» HISTORIC HIGHLIGHT

BEST OUTDOOR CINEMA

SUNSET DRIVE-IN, Colchester (1946)

Updates at the Queen City’s only drivein theatre, a family favorite since 1946, include four giant screens showing the first-run double feature, which begins at dusk. Mini-putt golf and a playground help amuse the kids, and the snack bar serves classic drive-in fare. Across the street, tired moviegoers can stay at the recently opened Starlight Inn, which features 11 different movie-themed rooms. Adults $8; children 12 and under $2.50. 155 Porter Point Road. 802-862-1800; sunsetdrivein.com

BEST FREE CONCERT SERIES

JACKSON GORE SUMMER MUSIC SERIES, Ludlow

Pack a picnic and chairs for Okemo Mountain Resort’s free Friday-night summer concerts, featuring music by local and regional bands. They’re held in the courtyard of the Jackson Gore Inn; gates open at 5:00 p.m. 111 Jackson Gore Road. 802-228-1600; okemo.com

BEST STATEWIDE WEEKEND

VERMONT DAYS

Take a big bite of Vermont without even nibbling at your wallet: Free admission is offered at all of Vermont’s state parks (day use), historic sites, and the Vermont History Museum in Mont pelier on June 13 and 14 this year; fishing is license-free on Saturday. 800-837-6668; vermontdays.com

BEST ANNUAL SALE

BURTON SNOWBOARDS TENT SALE, Burlington

Boarders and non-boarders alike camp out in the parking lot Thursday night to get first crack at equipment and clothing savings of up to 70 percent. The sale runs for three days on a lateAugust weekend; check the Web site for exact dates. 80 Industrial Way. 802-862-4500; burton .com

BEST FREE ART GALLERY

YESTER HOUSE, Manchester

The works of hundreds of regional artists are exhibited and for sale in the 10 elegant galleries and hallways of this Georgian Revival mansion, which serves as headquarters for the Southern Vermont Arts Center. Annual and invitational exhibitions are also launched here, and admission is always free. 930 SVAC Drive (off West Road). 802-362-1405; svac.org

CLASSICS

» HISTORIC HIGHLIGHT

BEST LAKESIDE RESORT

BASIN HARBOR CLUB, Vergennes (1886)

As timeless as a resort can be: Familyowned for more than 100 years, with a matchless location on Lake Champlain, the Club offers cottage or inn accommodations, water sports ranging from paddleboarding to cruising in a vintage Chris-Craft, a private golf course, and fine formal and informal dining. There’s even a private landing strip. Rates: from $220. 4800 Basin Harbor Road. 802-475-2311; basinharbor.com

» HISTORIC HIGHLIGHT

BEST HISTORIC FARM

BILLINGS FARM, Woodstock (1871)

What was rural Vermont like circa 1890? Find out at Billings, a model working farm, with draft horses, oxen, sheep, chickens, and Jersey cattle. Watch afternoon milking, tour the restored farm manager’s house and barn exhibits, and enjoy activities such as wagon rides and harvest-season cooking demonstrations. 69 Old River Road. 802-457-2355; billings farm.org

» HISTORIC HIGHLIGHT

BEST ART & AMERICANA

SHELBURNE MUSEUM, Shelburne (1947)

A spectacular collection of American artifacts—folk art, tools, clothing, carriages, furniture, and much more—and fine art fill historic buildings throughout this sprawling, beautifully landscaped site. Highlights include circus figures and posters, and the restored steamboat Ticonderoga , high and dry but set for a circa1920s Lake Champlain voyage. 6000 Shelburne Road. 802-985-3346; shelburne museum.org

BEST CHAMBER MUSIC

YELLOW BARN CONCERTS, Putney

Students and resident artists from around the world gather here each summer to refine their mastery of the chamber-music repertoire and to perform at more than 20 intimate concerts from mid-June to early August. 63 Main St. 802-3876637; yellowbarn.org

» HISTORIC HIGHLIGHT

BEST SMALL CITY MUSEUM

FAIRBANKS MUSEUM, St. Johnsbury (1889)

It’s a window on the wide world, Victorian-style. The Romanesque Revival Fairbanks boasts an astoundingly eclectic hoard of natural science, ethnology, and Vermont-history treasures—an old-style “cabinet of curiosities” writ large. Upstairs, the state’s only public planetarium offers state-of-the-art star shows. 1302 Main St. 802-748-2372; fairbanksmuseum.org

OUTDOORS

BEST HALF-HOUR HIKE

MOUNT PHILO STATE PARK, Charlotte

If you’re not quite ready to notch Mount Mansfield or Camel’s Hump into your hiking stick, Mount Philo offers a gentle ascent to a 986-foot summit with spectacular views of Lake Champlain, the Adirondacks, and those more challenging Vermont peaks you’ll tackle next year. Ten campsites are available. 5425 Mount Philo Road. 802-425-2390; vtstateparks.com/htm/ philo.htm

BEST PLACE FOR A PLUNGE DORSET QUARRY, Dorset

In a state famous for out-of-the-way swimming holes, one of the most popular and accessible is this former marble quarry, the oldest (1785) in the U.S. Plunge into clear, 60-foot-deep water, where stone for the New York Public Library was cut. No lifeguards; not recommended for children. Route 30 (park on Kelly Road)

BEST HIKE & BIKE MILLSTONE TRAILS, Barre

Once home to more than 75 small quarries, Millstone is now a 1,500-acre preserve laced by more than 70 miles of scenic mountain-biking and hiking trails. Magic Wheel (magicwheel vt.com) at the touring center rents bicycles. 34 Church Hill Road. 802-277-0144; millstone trails.com

BEST NATURE TOUR

SISKIN ECOLOGICAL ADVENTURES, East Charleston

Field ecologist Jason Brueck provides a fascinating narrative as he leads hikers and canoeists through his favorite haunts in the Northeast Kingdom, identifying unique birds such as Bicknell’s thrush and blackback woodpeckers, as well as mammals and rare plants. Ten Mile Square Road. 802-673-5638; travelthekingdom.com

BEST VIEWS WITH THE LEAST EFFORT

BARR HILL NATURAL AREA, Greensboro

You don’t even have to hike to the loftiest part of the 250-acre preserve for spectacular views— gorgeous panoramas open up right at the trailhead. But two gentle, self-guided loops (a third of a mile and four-fifths of a mile) at this Nature Conservancy gem offer their own rewards. Barr Hill Road. 802-229-4425; nature.org

BEST ART & AMERICANA: SHELBURNE MUSEUM, Shelburne (listing at left)

TOP 20 VERMONT EVENTS

MAY 2–3: ESSEX JUNCTION, 19th Spring Craft & Fine Art Show. Held in conjunction with the Vermont Antique Expo & Sale, this art and craft show at Champlain Valley Expo brings together a bevy of the area’s top artisans. Don’t miss the gourmet-foods marketplace. 802-879-6837; vtcrafts.com

MAY 2–3: WOODSTOCK, Sheep Shearing & Herding with Border Collies. At Billings Farm & Museum, enjoy a weekend devoted to Southdown sheep and their Border-collie friends, with shearing and herding demonstrations, a children’s art show, and a lunch to benefit the volunteer fire department. 802-457-2355; billingsfarm.org

MAY 10, JUNE 21, JULY 19: SHELBURNE, Shelburne Museum Family Days. From lilacs on Mother’s Day to a Father’s Day scavenger hunt and a circus spectacular at the height of summer, Shelburne Museum’s Family Days offer ageless fun. 802-985-3346; shelburnemuseum.org

MAY 23: BENNINGTON, Mayfest Arts & Crafts Festival. Visit the downtown area and discover the fine crafts of more than 125 artisans, delicious ethnic foods and classic fair treats, plus a farmers’ market offering demonstrations and samples, kids’ activities, games, music, and more. betterbennington.com

MAY 23–24: STATEWIDE, Vermont Artisans’ Open Studio Weekend. Vermont craftspeople open their workspaces to the public. Visit with your hosts, learn about how they do what they do, and maybe make a purchase or two. See the website for a map of participating studios. vermontcrafts.com

MAY 23–24: WOODSTOCK, Cheese & Dairy Celebration. Celebrate Vermont’s dairy heritage at Billings Farm & Museum with a weekend devoted to sampling delicious New England cheeses and meeting local cheese makers. Don’t miss the dairy-education programs and cheese-, ice cream– and buttermaking instruction. 802-457-2355; billings farm.org

JUNE 5–7: BRATTLEBORO, Strolling of the Heifers & Slow Living Summit. Start your weekend at the Friday-evening street festival and gallery walk; then on Saturday, watch scores of sweet-faced calves all decked out in flowers as they parade down Main Street. Head over to the Live Green Expo on the common for food, music, dance, demonstrations, exhibits and fun, all dedicated to the mission of sustaining Vermont’s family farms. Sunday’s Tour de Heifer bike ride (register ahead of time to participate) and a driving tour of area farms round out the festivities. 802-2587070; strollingoftheheifers.com

JUNE 5–14: BURLINGTON, Burlington Discover Jazz Festival. Jazz headliners descend on the City by the Lake for free and ticketed concerts throughout the week, plus street parties, cruises on Lake Champlain, artist meet-and-

JUNE 19–20: QUECHEE, Hot Air Balloon, Craft & Music Festival. Book a ride on one of more than 20 hot-air balloons taking flight over the town green, or stay grounded and enjoy the crafters’ and artisans’ booths, music, food, an obstacle course, and the bounce house. 802-295-7900; quecheeballoon festival.com

greet events, workshops, and films. 802-8635966; discoverjazz.com

JUNE 6–7: MANCHESTER, Antique & Classic Car Show. Now in its 29th year, this prestigious show, held at Dorr Farm, provides a spectacular display of old cars, plus raffles, flea-market vendors, a car parade, fun activities, music, food, and more. 800-362-6313; manchester carshow.com

JUNE 6–7: WEST DOVER, Tough Mudder at Mount Snow. Tough Mudder’s Mount Snow obstacle course will test your strength, stamina, grit, and camaraderie. Not for the faint of heart. toughmudder.com

JUNE 12–14: STOWE, Wine & Food Classic. A gala event held at the magnificent Trapp Family Lodge, with wine sampling, pairings, an auction, a multicourse dinner, seminars, and demonstrations. 888-683-2427; stowewine .com

JUNE 18–21: BONDVILLE, Wanderlust Festival. Come to Stratton Mountain for a celebration

of environmentally and spiritually conscious living, featuring an extensive selection of yoga classes led by renowned instructors, plus musical performances, a farm-to-table dinner, speakers, guided hikes, meditations, and more. stratton.wanderlustfestival.com

JUNE 20: BURLINGTON, Burlington Wine & Food Festival. This annual event showcases hundreds of fine vintages from near and far, paired with artisanal cheeses, creations from Vermont’s top chefs, and live jazz on the shore of Lake Champlain. burlingtonwineandfood festival.com

JUNE 20–22: LAKE CHAMPLAIN, Lake Champlain International Father’s Day Fishing Derby. Set your hooks for an angling tradition on beautiful Lake Champlain. Pick the division most appropriate for you and compete for a variety of awards. 802-879-3466; mychamplain.net

JUNE 25–28: ESSEX JUNCTION, Vermont Quilt Festival. New England’s largest quilt event opens on Thursday night with a champagne and chocolate preview. More than 80 vendors from across the country display hundreds of beautiful quilts, both antique and contemporary, at Champlain Valley Expo Center. Take part in classes, demonstrations, and appraisals, and learn from the “Textile Detectives.” 802-872-0034; vqf.org

JUNE 25–28: TUNBRIDGE, Jenny Brook Bluegrass Festival. This multiday musical extravaganza takes over the fairgrounds with stage shows featuring award-winning bands, meet-theartists sessions, and children’s activities, surrounded by the scenic Green Mountains. 802-380-4106; jennybrookbluegrass.com

JULY 5–11: MIDDLEBURY, 37th Summer Festivalon-the-Green. This free, family-friendly community event hosts a series of musical performances in the bucolic town center, come rain or shine. Don’t miss Saturday’s street dance finale. festivalonthegreen.org

JULY 18–AUG. 16: MARLBORO, Marlboro Music Concerts. Talented musicians rehearse for weeks to provide dynamic and memorable performances on Saturday evenings and Sunday afternoons, plus two Friday-night dates, all at Marlboro College’s Persons Auditorium. Reserve tickets in advance. 802-2589331; marlboromusic.org

JULY 24–26: WOODSTOCK, Bookstock. Meet prizewinning and emerging writers among the 20-plus regional authors as they present their work and talk with audiences in intimate venues throughout the village center. A vintagebook sale, kids’ activities, good food, and live music round out the fun. bookstockvt.org

Call ahead to confirm dates, schedules, and admission prices. To submit an event for possible publication, go to: YankeeMagazine.com/submitevent

FOR HUNDREDS OF FAIRS, FESTIVALS, EXHIBITS, SHOWS, AND OTHER FUN ACTIVITIES, GO TO: YANKEEMAGAZINE.COM/EVENTS

MASSACHUSETTS

ATTRACTIONS

BEST ART MUSEUM CAMPUS

CLARK ART INSTITUTE, Williamstown

The opening last year of the Clark’s new Visitor Center was a capstone in the reinvention of this already-excellent small museum. The 19thcentury French works collected by Sterling and Francine Clark remain the centerpiece, but the new and renovated buildings now conjure a broader artistic vision that links the art to the museum’s bucolic grounds, laced with hiking trails. 225 South St. 413–458–2303; clarkart.edu

BEST SUMMER THEATRE

BARRINGTON STAGE COMPANY, Pittsfield

With a 520-seat renovated main stage (a former vaudeville hall) and a modest 99-seat contemporary theatre, Barrington offers venues for splashy musicals as well as intimate plays. The company has had a long commitment to developing new musical theatre and typically premieres at least two musicals each summer season. 30 Union St. 413–236–8888; barringtonstageco.org

BEST THRILL RIDE

NEW ENGLAND SKYSCREAMER, Agawam

The name says it all. Dual swing chairs dangle on cables from the 400-foot-high top of the New

England SkyScreamer, and when the machine starts to spin, riders are slung almost perpendicular 40 stories above the ground. The views are great—if you can scream and look at the same time. Six Flags New England, 1623 Main St. 413–786–9300; sixflags.com/newengland

BEST BIRDWATCHING

ARCADIA WILDLIFE SANCTUARY, Easthampton/Northampton

With its diverse terrain, a mix of wetlands, meadow, and woodlands at the oxbow of the Connecticut River, Arcadia’s rich environment supports dozens of bird species over its 723 acres. Typical midsummer sightings along five miles of trails range from bald eagles, kestrels, and redtailed hawks to blue-gray gnatcatchers, Eastern bluebirds, and black-billed cuckoos. Great blue herons nest communally in the Ned’s Ditch wetland. 127 Combs Road. 413–584–3009; mass audubon.org

BEST ARMOR COLLECTION

WORCESTER ART MUSEUM, Worcester

The suits of medieval armor adopted from the now-shuttered Higgins Armory Museum shine all the more brightly in the Worcester Art Museum’s context of art and history. Always one of the world’s great collections of armor, these masterpieces of the smith’s craft can now be fully

appreciated as beautiful works of art. 55 Salisbury St. 508–799–4406; worcesterart.org

BEST MARITIME ART

CAPE ANN MUSEUM, Gloucester

No artist ever painted sea and sky as luminously as Fitz Henry Lane of Gloucester. His canvases glow even more brightly in the museum’s renovated galleries, which augment Lane’s oil paintings with his drawings and lithographs. Upstairs, two small ships and a first-order Fresnel lens help cele brate Cape Ann’s fishing and maritime history. 27 Pleasant St. 978–283–0455; capeannmuseum.org

» HISTORIC HIGHLIGHT

BEST HISTORIC FARM

SPENCER–PEIRCE–LITTLE FARM, Newbury (1638)

Just off busy Route 1A, this historic farm rolls back the clock to a simpler era. Genial goats, handsome horses, and immense pigs rush to the fences for attention, and guides offer tours of the 1690 manor house and attached 19th-century farmhouse. Many weekends see vintage games of the Essex Base Ball Association. 5 Little’s Lane. 978–462–2634; historicnewengland.org

BEST ART MUSEUM CAMPUS: CLARK ART INSTITUTE, Williamstown (listing below left)

BEST CHILDREN’S ATTRACTION

LEGOLAND DISCOVERY CENTER, Somerville

No adults are allowed without a child escort — probably so the old folks don’t hog the interlocking bricks. Geared to ages 3 to 10, this builder’s delight includes an “academy” where kids get construction tips from experts, as well as a gallery of Somerville and Boston buildings and attractions made from LEGO bricks. 598 Assembly Row. 866–228–6439; legolanddiscovery center.com/boston

» HISTORIC HIGHLIGHT

BEST PRESIDENTIAL HOMES

ADAMS NATIONAL HISTORICAL PARK, Quincy (1947)

The birthplaces of John Adams ( POTUS #2) and John Quincy Adams ( POTUS #6) tell compelling tales of learned men of principle and one brilliant, tough-minded first lady named Abigail. A National Park trolley makes the rounds of the two modest birthplaces and the grander family manse. Visitors’ Center, 1250 Hancock St. 617–770–1175; nps.gov/adam

BEST SPORTS MUSEUM

HALL AT PATRIOT PLACE, Foxborough

For football fans who have perhaps forgotten that there was a New England Patriots team before the Brady/Belichick era, this facility adjacent to Gillette Stadium contains the team’s Hall of Fame and galleries that tell the Pats’ tale from the early days to the four Lombardi Trophies. You can even try on uniforms in a replica locker room. 1 Patriot Place. 508–698–4800; thehallatpatriotplace.com

BEST WINERY LUNCH

TRURO VINEYARDS & CRUSH PAD, North Truro

Before touring the winery, you can picnic on the grassy lawn with Niman Ranch burgers, skirtsteak tacos, and lobster rolls from the Crush Pad food truck (a mobile offshoot of Truro’s Blackfish restaurant). The winery bar sells Truro wines by the glass to complete the experience. Sandwiches: from $7. 11 Shore Road. 508–487–6200; trurovineyardsofcapecod.com

BEST ARTIST’S HOME

EDWARD GOREY HOUSE, Yarmouth Port

Much as artist and author Edward Gorey (1925–2000) loved the macabre, his pen-and-ink drawings of all matters horrific were always touched by whimsy, including the animated tombstone opening credits for the PBS Mystery! series. The house preserves the artist’s mishmash collection of books, artifacts, beach stones, and curios—and his enduring, ultimately droll vision. 8 Strawberry Lane. 508–362–3909; edwardgorey house.org

LODGING

BEST MOUNTAIN LODGING

JIMINY PEAK MOUNTAIN RESORT

COUNTRY INN, Hancock

Don’t let the “country inn” moniker fool you. These hotel suites, each with kitchenette, kingsize bed, and queen-size sleeper, are contemporary ski-slope digs. The summer Adventure Park offers thrills and spills, but the pool and hot tubs might be enough for many travelers. Rates: from $169. 37 Corey Road. 413–738–5500; jiminypeak.com

BEST INN LANDSCAPE

SEVEN HILLS INN, Lenox

A manor house, carriage house, and motel share 27 acres of rolling lawns and country gardens and the elegant public rooms and patio of this classic Berkshires “cottage” property. No weddings are booked during the summer, but there are cabaret performances most evenings. Rates: from $125 motel, $145 carriage house, $145 manor house. 40 Plunkett St. 413–637–0060; sevenhillsinn.com

BEST B&BS

ALLEN HOUSE VICTORIAN INN & AMHERST INN, Amherst

These sister inns are near the Dickinson Homestead, and unapologetically emulate the full-on

Victorian style that would have made Emily feel right at home. But guests still get WiFi and radios (albeit antique style), and modern downtown Amherst is a short stroll uphill. Rates: from $105. 599 Main St., 257 Main St. 413–253–5000; allenhouse.com

BEST CAPE ANN MOTEL

CAPTAIN’S BOUNTY ON THE BEACH, Rockport

Location, location, location—each of the 24 rooms at this three-story wooden motel built in the 1960s has either a private balcony or a patio on Rockport’s Front Beach. Downtown shops and restaurants are a short stroll away. All of the impeccably maintained rooms have a minifridge, microwave, and coffeemaker; efficiencies have full stoves. Rates: from $165. 1 Beach St. 978–546–9557; captainsbountymotorinn.com

BEST INN RESTORATION

INN AT HASTINGS PARK, Lexington

One block from the green where the American Revolution began, the three buildings of this boutique luxury inn, which opened in 2014, echo the domestic history of the 18th and 19th centuries. Many of the spacious rooms boast gas fireplaces, and rates include breakfast from the menu of the inn’s excellent locavore restaurant, Artistry on the Green. Rates: from $255.

2027 Massachusetts Ave. 781–301–6660; innat hastingspark.com

BEST LUXURY RV PARK NORMANDY FARMS RV RESORT, Foxborough

Even city slickers could become converts to camping at this RV resort with bike park, fitness center, fishing pond, 18-hole disc-golf course, sauna, Jacuzzi, four swimming pools, and wellness center with massage treatments. Bring your own RV (or even a tent). Sites range from most basic (no services) to premium (water, septic, cable, high-amperage electric). Rates: from $41 per night, $279 per week. 72 West St. 866–673–2767; normandyfarms.com

BEST CHATEAU LODGING

MIRBEAU INN & SPA, Plymouth

New England doesn’t have real French chateaux, but the newly built Mirbeau inside The Pinehills, an upscale residential development, will do quite nicely for a French-inspired getaway. The selling points include a spa, large rooms with fireplaces and luxury beds, and a French-inspired restaurant with prix-fixe menus in three, five, or seven courses. Rates: from $240. 35 Landmark Drive. 877–647–2328; mirbeau.com/pinehills

BEST CHILD- & PET-FRIENDLY MOTEL HARBOR HOTEL PROVINCETOWN, Provincetown

Simple décor with retro touches is a reminder that this beachfront motel was originally built as a Holiday Inn. Rooms are set aside for pet owners, and various configurations, including connecting rooms, ease family sleeping arrangements. Bring sticks and marshmallows to toast at the firepit. Rates: from $99. 698 Commercial St. 855–447–8696; harborhotelptown.com

BEST CAPE COD BOUTIQUE INN

PLATINUM PEBBLE BOUTIQUE INN, West Harwich

Brits Annabelle and Simon Hunton transformed an erstwhile Victorian sea captain’s home into a breezy, modern getaway of seven rooms with king beds (some with gas fireplaces), one with a queen. Delightful grounds around the pool include an English rose garden. Breakfast is served in your room, and the innkeepers provide parking passes for the nearby Harwich beaches. Rates: from $245 (king), $199 (queen). 186 Belmont Road. 508–432–7766; platinumpebble.com

BEST HARBORFRONT MOTEL

VINEYARD HARBOR MOTEL, Vineyard Haven

Walk out of the courtyard of this 40-room motel and you’ll find yourself on a private beach. Every

simply decorated room has a refrigerator, and several feature full kitchens. The Steamship Authority ferry dock is a 10-minute walk away, even if you’re rolling a suitcase. Rates: from $215. 60 Beach Road. 508–693–3334; vineyard harbormotel.com

BEST ISLAND INN

76 MAIN, Nantucket

Sensitive restoration maintains the Nantucket authenticity of this former sea captain’s home while making way for the comforts and technology that 21st-century guests expect on the toniest of Massachusetts islands. A courtyard with firepits has a BYOB cocktail mixer bar, and an on-site café can steam lattes and cappuccinos to order. Rates: from $259. 76 Main St. 800–626–8825; 76main.com

DINING

BEST FARM-TO-TABLE DINING

PRAIRIE WHALE, Great Barrington

Wunderkind restaurateur Mark Firth was thriving with farm-to-table restaurants in Brooklyn, but he decided to get much closer to the food sources and moved to the Berkshires. Now he raises Prairie Whale’s pigs, sheep, and laying hens in nearby Monterey and buys

the restaurant produce locally. Start with fried green tomato and goat cheese, then savor roast chicken with baby turnips. Entrées: from $14. 178 Main St. 413–528–5050; facebook.com/ PrairieWhale

BEST SMALL PLATES

BRAVA, Lenox

Brava unites the best of Spanish and Italian small plates with exemplary selections of wine by the glass and beer on tap. Reservations aren’t accepted, but you can usually find a place at the bar to nibble on the likes of bruschetta with wild mushrooms, goat cheese, walnuts, and fig jam, or to tuck into a plate of lollipop lamb chops. Entrées: from $9. 27 Housatonic St. 413–637–9171; bravalenox.com

BEST COLLEGE-TOWN DINING

30 BOLTWOOD, Amherst

The principal dining room at the Lord Jeffery Inn serves straightforward—dare we say, simple —food in a convivial atmosphere with relaxed but attentive service. Roast pork loin might come with a side of smoked corn risotto; a Delmon ico steak with steamed beans and braised collard greens. The ricotta tart with cornmeal crust and seasonal fruit is always a dessert favorite. Entrées: from $22. 30 Boltwood Ave. 413–835–2011; 30boltwood.com

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BEST POLISH FOOD SMIAROWSKI FARM STAND & CREAMERY, Sunderland

From the first asparagus to the last Blue Hubbard squash, Smiarowski Farm Stand offers all the bounty of the Connecticut Valley. Instead of burgers and hot dogs, the take-out food window serves homemade specialties like cabbage rolls and sandwiches of grilled kielbasa slathered with horseradish and served on dark rye bread. Try them all on the Polish Power Plate ($12). Pastries and sandwiches: from $4. 320 River Road. 413–665–3830

BEST BLUEBERRY DOUGHNUTS ADAMS DONUTS, Greenfield

Adams opens at 5:00 a.m. (6:00 a.m. on Sundays), and many of the doughnut varieties are sold out well in advance of the noon closing. The moist, slightly crumbly blueberry doughnut represents the perfect balance of cake and glaze. No wonder Adams has served Greenfield for more than 50 years. Doughnuts: from $1. 348 Federal St. 413–774–4214; adamsdonuts.com

BEST CUPCAKES

SWEET PASTRY SHOP & DESSERT BAR, Worcester

Sweet leads a double life as a daytime cake shop and an evening bar with lots of cocktails and both sweet and savory small plates. A cupcake sampler will introduce you to buttery treats with dense frosting. In the evening, you can even get a cupcake with your cosmo. Cupcakes: from $3.25. 72 Shrewsbury St. 508–373–2248; sweet worcester.com

BEST LOCAL CATCH SHORT & MAIN, Gloucester

The entrée menu isn’t written on the chalkboard until the fishermen land their catch, but you can count on dayboat seafood from Gloucester’s fleet. The stunning raw bar is stocked from clam flats and oyster beds on both Cape Ann and Cape Cod. Entrées: from $14. 36 Main St. 978–281–0044; shortandmain.com

BEST RETRO DINING

17 STATE STREET CAFÉ, Newburyport

The embossed tin ceiling, tile floors, and booths of a former soda shop and newsstand strike just the right note for this old-fashioned restaurant, which serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Pancakes rule breakfast, while 17 burger variations are served from noon on. Dinner gets marginally fancier, with seared tuna, barbecued ribs, and fried chicken. Entrées: from $14. 17 State St. 978–358–8664; 17statestreetcafe.com

BEST NEAPOLITAN PIZZA

PIZZERIA POSTO, Somerville

The first establishment in New England to pass the stringent requirements of Italy’s Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana, Posto bakes hand-kneaded pies in a domed, wood-fired oven for about 90 seconds—just as the Naples pizzerias do. Purists stick to the Margherita, but the

daring among us opt for a pie topped with fennelroasted pork and oozy fontina. Pizzas: from $11. 187 Elm St. 617– 625–0600; postoboston.com

BEST AIRPORT FOOD NANCY’S AIRFIELD CAFÉ, Stow

Chef Nancy MacPherson’s cooking represents her globetrotting ways, from Middle Eastern hummus to classic American burgers. Many diners are recreational pilots who keep their planes at this small airstrip, visible through the restaurant’s big windows, but the general public is welcome, too. Saturday and Sunday brunches are popular with families. Brunch: from $12. Dinner entrées (Fridays and Saturdays): from $21. 302 Boxboro Road. 978–897–3934; nancys airfieldcafe.com

BEST BEER LIST

THE NEW WORLD TAVERN, Plymouth

It’s a beer drinker’s nirvana, offering more than 30 craft brews on tap and another 120 in the bottle. But it’s worth stopping by for the dining as well. Besides the usual pub grub, chef Johnny Sheehan makes inventive beer-friendly dishes like green papaya with crisp pork belly and ramen soup with duck confit. Entrées: from $10. 56 Main St. 508–927–4250; thenewworldtavern.com

BEST GASTROPUB QUICKS HOLE TAVERN, Woods Hole

This tavern next to the ferry landing gives Woods Hole a much-needed injection of yearround casual contemporary cooking with small plates like house-pickled vegetables, quahog fritters, and fried oysters, as well as fancier offerings such as black-pepper fettuccine with grilled radicchio. Big windows let diners watch the ferries come and go. Entrées: from $18. 29 Railroad Ave. 508–495–0048; quicksholewickedfresh.com

BEST SEAFOOD IN THE ROUGH

MAC’S ON THE PIER, Wellfleet No matter how long the lines are at the order counter, there’s always a picnic table free on the adjacent sand when your number is called. This is the spot to indulge in steamers, lobster, fried fish, onion rings, or even a fish taco. The sunset is free, and you can crown the evening with ice cream—soft-serve or scooped. BYOB. Sandwiches: from $5. Seafood plates: from $14. Wellfleet Harbor, 265 Commercial St. 508–349–9611; macsseafood.com

BEST HARBOR DECK DINING

TIN PAN ALLEY, Provincetown

Just across from Town Hall, this New American bistro takes its name from the antique tin ceiling and the repertoire played at the piano bar nightly from 9:00 p.m. The long, narrow dining room, which passes the open kitchen, leads all the way back to an exquisite deck for al fresco dining on dayboat scallops or steak-of-the-day while overlooking the harbor.

Entrées: from $17. 269 Commercial St. 508–487–1648; tinpanalleyptown.com

BEST CRAFT COCKTAILS

BEETLEBUNG CAFÉ, Oak Bluffs

The quirky home-goods and clothing boutique group has spawned a delightful café—coffee bar by day, snazzy cocktail bar and small-plates hangout after dark. Chill with a tall blackberry lemonade with Rittenhouse rye, while slurping littlenecks steamed in red, yellow, and green Thai curries. Plates: from $8. Cocktails: from $14. 53 Circuit Ave. 508–696–0053; beetlebung .com

BEST GLOBAL DINING

THE PROPRIETOR’S BAR & TABLE, Nantucket

Those Quaker whalers who made the first Nantucket fortunes picked up a taste for the exotic as they chased their quarry around the globe. Honoring that tradition, this contemporary American restaurant borrows techniques and spices from Asia and Europe to make the most of New England meat and fish. A crispy chicken roll, for instance, might be served with kimchee mayo and sweet chili sauce, while fried oysters get some heat from Tabasco remoulade. Entrées: from $34. 9 India St. 508–228–7477; proprietorsnantucket.com

BARGAINS

BEST WALKING TOUR

TANGLEWOOD WALKING TOURS, Lenox

In July and August, stroll the Tanglewood grounds to learn the history of the property and the Boston Symphony Orchestra’s summer tenure here. Hour-long tours visit the Koussevitzky Music Shed and Ozawa Hall as well as the photoand memorabilia-filled Visitors’ Center. Free tours offered Saturday, Sunday, Tuesday, and Wednesday. 297 West St. 413–637–5393; bso.org

» HISTORIC HIGHLIGHT

BEST BOTANICAL GARDEN

THE BOTANIC GARDEN OF SMITH COLLEGE, Northampton (1894) Smith students live and study inside a botanical showcase. Frederick Law Olmsted’s landscape-architecture firm helped lay out the scientific gardens here in the late 19th century, and there’s almost always something in bloom among this collection of more than 6,000 plants. Don’t miss the Lyman Conservatory greenhouses. Free. 16 College Lane. 413–585–2740; smith.edu/ garden

BEST FLEA MARKET

RAYNHAM FLEA, Raynham

You never know what kind of treasure you’ll unearth at this massive flea market of more than 500 dealers indoors and hundreds more outside—from antiques and collectibles to electronics and toys to fishing tackle and baseball caps, and everything in between—plus plenty of food onsite to keep you going. Held every Sunday except Easter, Raynham Flea charges just $1 for adults, 50¢ for seniors. Kids 12 and under get in free. 480 South St. West. 508–823–8923; raynhamflea.com

» HISTORIC HIGHLIGHT

BEST BAND CONCERTS

CHATHAM BAND, Chatham (1931)

Just as they have for more than 60 years, the members of the Chatham Band don their red uniforms and break out their sheet music at Kate Gould Park on Friday nights from July to September. They literally strike up the band at 8:00 p.m., but most concertgoers arrive early to buy sweets at Chat ham Candy Manor before claiming their spots on the grass. Free. Off Main St. and Chatham Bars Ave chatham band.com

BEST FREE FRIDAYS

FREE FUN FRIDAYS FROM HIGHLAND STREET FOUNDATION, Statewide

Your family can enjoy a smorgasbord of art, history, and nature on “Free Fun Fridays” between late June and late August. Each week at least five organizations—from museums to zoos to gardens and nature centers across Massachusetts—welcome visitors with free admission. Check the website for a full list of organizations. 617-969-8900; highlandstreet.org

CLASSICS

» HISTORIC HIGHLIGHT

BEST OLD-TIME BASEBALL

WAHCONAH PARK, Pittsfield (1919)

Watching the Pittsfield Suns is like going back to the future, or in this case, the Futures League for college players. Organized baseball has been played in Pittsfield since 1892 (and college ball since 1859), and Wahconah Park itself—one of the last remaining parks with a wooden grandstand—dates from 1919. 105 Wahconah St. 413–445–7867; pittsfieldsuns.pointstreak sites.com

» HISTORIC HIGHLIGHT

BEST MODERN ARCHITECTURE

GROPIUS HOUSE, Lincoln (1938) Bauhaus simplicity and efficiency dovetailed neatly with New England traditions, so when former Bauhaus director Walter Gropius built his home in 1938, the radical architecture wasn’t completely out of place. Revolutionary in its use of innovative materials, this boxy home has become a classic seven decades later. 68 Baker Bridge Road. 781–259–8098; historicnewengland.org

BEST DRIVE-IN

MENDON TWIN DRIVE-IN, Mendon

When the Mendon Drive-In opened in 1954, outdoor screens around the nation trembled at the sight of Them , a race of giant ants spawned by a radiation accident. Mendon added a second screen in 1998 and is now an enduring reminder of a nostalgic era of American car culture—and the double feature. 35 Milford St. 508–473–4958; mendondrivein.com

BEST WHALING HISTORY

NEW BEDFORD WHALING

NATIONAL HISTORICAL PARK, New Bedford

Until the discovery of petroleum, New Bedford lit the nation’s candles and lamps and greased the wheels of industry with whale oil. The museum recapitulates the history, but the city’s buildings also tell the tale. See the church where the seamen prayed, the wharves where the vessels set sail, the counting house and the Custom House, and a mansion where whaling merchants lived in luxury. 33 William St. (Visitors’ Center). 508–996–4095; nps.gov/nebe

BEST AFTERNOON TEA

DUNBAR TEA SHOP, Sandwich

Afternoon tea is the most civilized of meals. At this tearoom in a Colonial-era carriage house, finger sandwiches, extravagant pastries, and scones are served on Blue Willow china,

BEST LOCAL CATCH: SHORT & MAIN, Gloucester (listing on p. 150)

BEST TREETOP ADVENTURE: RAMBLEWILD, Lanesborough (listing opposite)

along with a pot of freshly brewed tea. In nice weather, you can opt for a table on the outdoor patio. Afternoon tea: from $15. 1 Water St. 508–833–2485;dunbartea.com

OUTDOORS

BEST TREETOP ADVENTURE

RAMBLEWILD, Lanesborough

Climb, walk, and zoom through the forest canopy on Ramblewild’s eight trails, each color-coded like a ski slope from yellow to double black diamond. The courses cover 17 acres with more than 100 elements—logs, nets, ziplines, rope bridges, ladders, tunnels—on a self-guided system with clip-in harness. All visits start with a short orientation for safety and technique. 110 Brodie Mountain Road. 844–iRAMBLE; ramblewild.com

BEST RIVER TUBING

DEERFIELD RIVER PORTAGE, C onway

It’s hard to think of anything more refreshing than bobbing down a cool river on a hot summer’s day. Deerfield River Portage provides the tubes and the transportation for a hassle-free trip along a pristine stretch of this scenic waterway. Bring your own sunscreen, river shoes, and snack. 617 Hoosac Road. 413–282–7678; drportage.com

BEST DISC-GOLF COURSE

MAPLE HILL DISC GOLF COURSE, Leicester

Ready to move beyond Ultimate Frisbee? Try the challenging sport of disc golf at this former family farm, complete with woodsy holes and multiple water hazards. Rated as one of the top 10 courses in the world, Maple Hill hosts several tournaments, but has color-coded approaches to each hole rated from novice to expert. 132 Marshall St. 508–754–3472; maple hilldiscgolf.org

BEST LLAMA HIKE

PINETUM FARM LLAMAS, Granby

One- or two-hour llama-accompanied hikes on this 50-acre farm on the south side of the Holyoke Range feel a lot like taking a very big dog for a walk. Llamas can weigh 400 pounds, but these gentle creatures make good company. Because they’re cold-weather critters, most hikes take place in spring and fall. 7 Harris St. 413–467–7146; pinetumfarm.com

BEST SURF LESSONS

SACRED SURF SCHOOL, Wellfleet

Sacred Surf holds that riding a wave is much more than an athletic thrill: It’s a mystical connection to the beauty and power of the ocean and the confidence of trusting your own capabilities. The Cape’s most consistent breaks happen just offshore from Marconi Beach, making this the perfect spot to learn. Marconi Beach Road. 508–514–1555; sacredsurfschool.com

The Very Best of Cape Cod and Martha’s Vineyard

The Very Best of Cape Cod and Martha’s Vineyard

GREATER BOSTON

ATTRACTIONS

BEST BOSTON MEMENTOS

MAKE WAY FOR DUCKLINGS STORE, Boston

The classic children’s book has its very own shop, run by Adam and Jamie Hirsch, the duo behind Harvard Square’s Curious George store. Find children’s books by hometown authors, plush storybook characters, and literary-themed kids’ clothes—particularly those with duckling motifs. 8 North Market Building, Faneuil Hall. 617-573-9888; makewayforducklings.com

BEST HISTORICAL LANDMARK

JOHN F. KENNEDY MUSEUM, Boston

2015 is a banner year for the museum, with the arrival of 500 hours of restored historical footage and the adjacent Edward M. Kennedy Institute. There’s also a new exhibit devoted to Jacqueline Kennedy’s years in the White House, highlighted by her own narration and never-beforeseen artifacts. Columbia Point. 617-514-1600; jfklibrary.org

BEST OUTDOOR STROLL

ROSE M. KENNEDY GREENWAY, Boston

There are many things to love about this 15-acre public park: rotating public-art installations,

an old-fashioned carousel ($3 a spin), seasonal outdoor markets, and plenty of food trucks, to name a few. This year, Boston Public Market will arrive to anchor this lush landmark, offering fresh produce from local farmers, grab-andgo meals, and cooking demonstrations by noted chefs. rosekennedygreenway.org

» HISTORIC HIGHLIGHT

BEST INDIE HANGOUT

THE BRATTLE THEATRE, Cambridge (1949)

In a changing Harvard Square, the ageold Brattle endures, showing a blend of obscure, indie, and foreign films. Quirky authors and filmmakers such as David Lynch often appear for readings and screenings. You can almost smell the pipe smoke of bygone intellectuals. 40 Brattle St. 617-876-6837; brattlefilm.org

BEST PLACE TO GEEK OUT

THE MUSEUM OF SCIENCE, Boston

A rite of passage for generations of children, the museum recently introduced an immersive 4-D movie hall that simulates sensory effects like rain, snow, and earthquakes. There are films for

adventurers, like Planet Earth: Shallow Seas, plus kid-friendly flicks like Happy Feet. (Sorry, no Frozen yet.) 1 Science Park. 617-723-2500; mos.org

BEST WAY TO SIGHTSEE

FREEDOM HILL RUNNING TOUR, Boston

Finally, a way to take in Boston’s sights while increasing your heart rate. On the 5K, two-hour guided course, you’ll catch your breath at landmarks including the Old North Church and the USS Constitution. Wind down with a ferry from Charlestown back to Long Wharf. Jct. Park & Tremont Sts. 617-398-0611; freedomtrailrun.com

DINING

BEST PIZZA

PICCO, Boston

All the pies at this South End stalwart are terrific, but we’d argue that the best pizza of all is Picco’s “Alsatian” pie, which tops a crisp and pillowy long-fermented crust with caramelized onions, crème fraîche, bacon, and Gruyère. No, this isn’t health food, but a small pizza for two ($14.50) is so good, it leaves your stomach satisfied and your dignity intact. 513 Tremont St. 617927-0066; piccorestaurant.com

BEST OUTDOOR STROLL: ROSE M. KENNEDY GREENWAY, Boston (listing below, far left)

BEST BAGELS

BAGELSAURUS, Cambridge

At $4 a pop (with cream cheese), these bagels might come with a side of sticker shock, but trust us: They’re worth it. One bite of the cracklingly crisp exterior and the moist, chewy center will remind you that all those so-called bagels you’ve been eating are really just sandwich rolls with holes. Don’t miss the breakfast sandwich ($6): a just-cooked jumbo egg with extra-sharp cheddar and mustard butter. 1796 Massachusetts Ave. 857-285-6103; bagelsaurus.com

BEST BURGER

KIRKLAND TAP & TROTTER, Somerville

At his fine-dining restaurant, Craigie on Main, Tony Maws earned a cult following for a grass-fed burger, served only at the bar, made from three different cuts of locally sourced meat. At Kirkland, his more-casual tavern, the burger ($16) has the same deeply flavored, perfectly cooked beef with updated accents: Emmental cheese and a zingy kimchi Russian dressing. Even the bun and ketchup are homemade. 425 Washington St. 857-259-6585; kirklandtapandtrotter.com

BEST AFFORDABLE WATERFRONT DINING KO AT THE SHIPYARD, East Boston

We’re letting you in on a little secret here: The best waterfront views of Boston Harbor aren’t in Boston. They’re in up-and-coming East Boston. And the best view is from Piers Park, a refurbished waterfront idyll with incredible views of the city skyline. Just a short walk from the park, you’ll find the Boston Harbor Shipyard, a working marina where KO Catering & Pies operates a small café. KO’s food is inspired by both the home flavors and world travels of Australian owners Sam Jackson and Kara Butterfield. The menu includes savory beef pies ($6.25), piri piri chicken ($9), and sticky date pudding ($8). So grab some food to go and bring it to the park, where a summer concert series provides the soundtrack and the sunset provides the magic. 256 Marginal St., Building 16. 617-418-5234; kocateringandpies.com

BEST ROMANTIC SPOT BONDIR, Cambridge

Jason Bond is a culinary romantic, expressing his passion for New England ingredients in menus laced with wild beach plums, Cape Cod oysters, Delicata squash, and local pasture-raised chicken (all entrées $30). His food is sensuous in the purest sense. His partner, Monica Higgins, brings the same aesthetic to the dining room, stoking the fireplace in season, arranging little floral still lifes here and there, and greeting customers with genuine warmth. In short: There’s no

MICHAEL PIAZZA (KIRKLAND TAP & TROTTER); LIZA VOLL PHOTOGRAPHY (ICA)

BEST BURGER: KIRKLAND TAP & TROTTER, Somerville (listing below center)

BEST NIGHT AT THE MUSEUM: THE INSTITUTE OF CONTEMPORARY ART, Boston (listing on p. 160)

SO MANY REASONS TO VISIT AGAIN AND AGAIN

For your next getaway, call 1-800-215-9805 or visit us at www.merrimackvalley.org

deCordova Sculpture Park and Museum

Established in 1950, deCordova Sculpture Park and Museum is the largest park of its kind in New England. The 30-acre Park hosts a constantly changing landscape of 60+ outdoor sculptures; the Museum features a slate of rotating exhibitions and interpretive programming. 51 Sandy Pond Road, Lincoln, MA 781-259-8355 www.decordova.org

Lowell National Historical Park

Explore Lowell National Historical Park and discover the human stories of America’s Industrial Revolution. Join a ranger for a boat tour on Lowell’s canals, take a ride on a vintage trolley, and experience the sights and sounds of the Boott Cotton Mill’s working weave room. Your historical adventure awaits. 978-970-5000, www.nps.gov/lowe Facebook.com/LowellNPS

Lowell Folk Festival

The Longest Running “Free” Folk Festival in America celebrates 29 years on July 24 – 26, 2015 on five stages in Downtown Lowell, MA. Join us for Traditional Music & Dance from National & International Cultures, enjoy Ethnic Cuisine, learn from Master Crafters. www.lowellfolkfestival.org

The UMass Lowell Inn & Conference Center

Located in the heart of downtown Lowell! Within walking distance are historical landmarks, major event venues, galleries, shops and a bustling downtown. The hotel offers 250 overnight guest rooms, a full-service restaurant & lounge, plus 15,000 sq feet of meeting space.

Toll Free: 877-886-5422 978-934-6920 www.uml.edu/icc

Provincetown

better place to spark a new flame or rekindle an old one. 279A Broadway. 617-661-0009; bondir cambridge.com

BEST SUSHI

UNI SASHIMI BAR, Boston

A caveat: This is not your go-to place for spicy tuna takeout. But if you’re interested in sushi as real cuisine, Ken Oringer’s small eatery in the lower level of the Eliot Hotel pairs exquisite fish (and pork belly, and foie gras …) with an international palette of flavors. That means Maine lobster tempura with Singapore black-pepper chili sauce ($20), sea urchin with quail eggs and caviar ($16), and Little Rhody fluke with pomegranate, curry, and raita ($18). There’s also late-night ramen Fridays and Saturdays after 11:00. 370 Commonwealth Ave. 617- 536-7200; unisashimibar.com

LODGING

BEST NEW HOTEL

THE VERB HOTEL, Boston

This kitschy lair was once the Fenway Motor Lodge, and it has retained a nostalgic, only-inBoston vibe. Local rock memorabilia line the walls, and the staff is quick with helpful insider suggestions on what to see and do. The house restaurant, Japanese pub Hojoko, serves sushi, tempura, and grilled meats; a heated outdoor pool lends an indulgent touch. Rates: from $250. 1271 Boylston St. 855-695-6678; theverbhotel.com

BEST HOTEL VIEWS

THE COLONNADE, Boston

Here you’ll find Boston’s only rooftop pool, where a 2014 makeover resulted in cabanas and a full bar. Upscale French restaurant Brasserie Jo is a year-round treat; so are the rooms’ floorto-ceiling windows, offering lovely city panoramas. The site is unbeatable: You’re centrally located among Back Bay, the South End, Copley Square, and several museums. Rates: from $399. 120 Huntington Ave. 617-424-7000. colonnade hotel.com

BEST HOTEL AMENITIES

THE CHARLES HOTEL, Cambridge

This regal Harvard Square hideaway has two superb restaurants (Henrietta’s Table and Rialto), a spa that incorporates herbs from the hotel’s garden, a lap pool with children’s hours, Regattabar, a beloved jazz club, and even care packages for traveling pets. In the winter, there’s a skating rink. Rates: from $259. 1 Bennett St. 617-864-1200; charleshotel.com

BEST B&B

MARY PRENTISS INN, Cambridge

This Neoclassical lodging within walking distance of Porter and Harvard squares blends historic charm (high tea) with modern niceties (free parking, wireless). A hot breakfast is served every morning with local specialties like banana–nut waffles and Vermont maple syrup.

Try to reserve Room 9, which boasts a woodburning fireplace. Rates: from $129. 6 Prentiss St. 617-661-2929; maryprentissinn.com

BARGAINS

BEST LATE-NIGHT SNACK STRAIGHT LAW, Brookline

This gin joint is tucked inside Brookline’s exceptional and cozy tapas parlor, Taberna de Haro. Some of Boston’s finest mixologists helm the bar, and gin cocktails hover around $8. Tapas are $4, and bocatas—fresh baguettes tucked with meats, cheeses, or pâté—are $5.50 after 10:00 p.m. 999 Beacon St., 617-277-8272; tabernaboston.com

BEST NIGHT AT THE MUSEUM

THE INSTITUTE OF CONTEMPORARY ART, Boston

The space-age beacon on Boston’s waterfront offers free admission on Thursday evenings after 5:00 p.m.; on the first Friday evening of every month, a $15 “Artist’s Voice” lecture finds notables such as Jim Hodges and Matthew Ritchie discussing their work. 100 Northern Ave. 617478-3100; icaboston.org

BEST AFFORDABLE WAY TO SIGHTSEE

CULTURAL CONNECTOR, Boston

Daytrippers can cruise to various wharves near major destinations like Faneuil Hall, the Boston Children’s Museum, and the New England Aquarium on this ferry shuttle. A one-way pass is $5; an all-day pass is $15. The shuttle stops at Central Wharf, Fan Pier, and Fort Point Channel. It’s a budget-friendly, scenic way to absorb the city. 617-227-4321; bostonharborcruises.com

BEST SPOT FOR BOOKWORMS

BRATTLE BOOK SHOP, Cambridge

On a crooked little downtown street, this Dickensian shop is a three-floor wonderland of rare, used, and out-of-print gems. Devoted staff will help you unearth your pleasure; an outdoor sale area showcases best-sellers and curiosities for as little as $1. 9 West St. 617-542-0210; brattlebook shop.com

BEST BUDGET FASHION

DEW LUXE, South Boston

This Southie shop stocks a dazzling, fairly priced range of new and consigned designer duds from labels including Gucci, Burberry, Valentino, Chanel, and Tom Ford, plus a range of swank accessories, such as Christian Lacroix stationery and Hermès cuffs. Expect to find outerwear starting at $10 and Jimmy Choo shoes for as little as $60. Frequent sales mean that prices are often knocked down another 25 percent or more. Owner Michaela Bavis rotates her inventory every two weeks, so there’s always something new. She’s a helpful stylist, too, with a loyal clientele. 36 A St. 617-315-7531; dewluxe.com

TOP 20 MASSACHUSETTS EVENTS

MAY 1–31: CAPE COD, Annual Cape Cod Maritime Days. This month-long event includes guided kayak excursions, lighthouse tours, walking tours, nautical-art exhibits, the 19th Annual Cape Cod Maritime History Symposium at the Cape Cod Museum of Natural History, and other maritime-themed activities. capecod maritimedays.com

MAY 10: BOSTON, Duckling Day. Throngs of children dressed as characters from the wonderful children’s classic Make Way for Ducklings descend for a day of face painting, music making, clowns, and a dramatic reading of the charming Robert McCloskey book, before marching parade-style across Boston Common. friendsofthepublicgarden.org

MAY 10: BOSTON, Lilac Sunday. Harvard’s historic Arnold Arboretum celebrates beauty with a day of festivities, including tours of the grounds, featuring more than 170 types of lilacs, plus performances, picnics, and other family fun. 617-524-1718; arboretum.harvard.edu

MAY 12–17, JULY 14–19, SEPT. 8–13: BRIMFIELD, Brimfield Antique Show. From kitsch to furniture, jewelry, and garden and home décor, and so much more, if you can’t find it here it probably doesn’t exist. One of the largest outdoor antique shows in the country, with thousands of dealers setting up shop amid the 20 fields and half-mile strip on Route 20. brimfield show.com

MAY 13–17: NANTUCKET, Wine Festival. More than 50 events are scheduled over five days, each intended to delight wine and food enthusiasts. Wine tours, chefs’ demonstrations, seminars, wine dinners, and food tastings. 617-527-9473; nantucketwinefestival.com

MAY 23–25: NORTHAMPTON, Paradise City Arts Festival. The works of some 260 prominent artists and crafters are showcased at 3 County Fairgrounds, with cuisine prepared by Northampton’s best chefs and live performances by nationally and regionally acclaimed musicians. paradisecityarts.com

MAY 23–25: STURBRIDGE, Wool Days. The kickoff weekend for Old Sturbridge Village’s 1830s-style summer games just happens to coincide with haircut time for the sheep. Play and learn, as historians demonstrate how wool is processed, from shearing, scouring, and carding, to dyeing, spinning, and weaving. 800-733-1830; osv.org

MAY 28–31: GREAT BARRINGTON/PITTSFIELD, 10th Annual Berkshire International Film Festival. Dozens of films will be featured at Triplex Cinema, Beacon Cinema, the historic Mahaiwe Theatre, and other area venues, as the festival provides entertainment, education, discussions, and inspiration for filmmakers and film lovers alike. 413-528-8030; biffma.org

JUNE 5–JULY 12: ROCKPORT, Rockport Chamber Music Festival. The Shalin Liu Performance

JUNE 13–AUG. 30: BECKET, Jacob’s Pillow Dance Festival. Called “the dance center of America” by the New York Times, this much-anticipated summer tradition is America’s longestrunning dance festival, featuring more than 50 dance companies and some 200+ performances, talks, exhibits, films, classes, tours, and community events. 413-243-9919; jacobspillow.org

Center provides the magical setting for the rich and lively concerts of this 34th season. Visit the website for details and schedules. 978-546-7391; rockportmusic.org

JUNE 6: BROOKLINE, 37th Coolidge Corner Arts Festival. Established and emerging artists convene at the Devotion School to display works in an array of media: jewelry, fiber, glass, ceramics, photography, watercolor, and more. When you’ve worked up a hunger, hop over to the adjacent food festival, which supports the local food bank. coolidgecornerarts festival.com

JUNE 13–14: NEWBURYPORT, 36th Annual Garden Tour. Take a stroll through some of the area’s finest gardens, each unique in its own way, with English or French influences, water features, butterfly areas, and more. A fundraiser for the Historical Society and Cushing House Museum. 978-462-2681; newburyhist .org

JUNE 19–21: COHASSET, South Shore Art Center Arts Festival. This quintessential New England festival celebrates its 60th year on Cohasset Common, with some 90 juried craft artists, a fine-art tent, live music, children’s art and activities, and local churches selling

lobster rolls and strawberry shortcake. 781383-2787; ssac.org

JUNE 19–AUG. 22: LENOX, Tanglewood Concerts. There’ll be something for everyone at Tanglewood this year, as the summer home of the Boston Symphony Orchestra also welcomes a varied lineup, including Wynton Marsalis, Sheryl Crow, Huey Lewis, Garrison Keillor, Bernadette Peters, Lady Gaga and Tony Bennett, and more. 617-266-1492; bso.org

JUNE 20–21: CAPE ANN, Cape Ann Artisans Spring Studio Tour. A unique opportunity to tour the beautiful coastline from Gloucester to Rockport while visiting the home studios of more than 20 artists working in disciplines such as painting, pottery, photography, weaving, and more. capeannartisans.com

JUNE 20–21: SALISBURY, The Vintage Bazaar. More than 175 dealers offer antiques, nostalgia, architectural salvage, rusty junk, repurposed goods, and more at Pettengill Farm, with plenty of food, live music, and free family activities. 978-518-0128; mybazaarlife.com

JUNE 30–AUG. 23: WILLIAMSTOWN, Williamstown Theatre Festival. A 2002 “Best Theatre” Tony Award winner, this festival has been drawing America’s finest actors, directors, designers, and playwrights to the Berkshires since 1955. See the website for the lineup. 413-458-3200; wtfestival.org

JULY 2–6: BOSTON, Boston Harborfest. Highlighting the Commonwealth capital city’s role in our country’s founding, this is America’s biggest birthday bash. Events on the waterfront and in downtown areas include a concert series and chowderfest, children’s activities, walking tours of historic sites, lectures, reenactments, and, of course, a dazzling fireworks show. 617-227-1528; bostonharborfest.com

JULY 10–12: GREENFIELD, Green River Festival. Come for the music—performed on multiple stages—and the dancing, but don’t miss the delicious local food offerings, craft show, hot-air balloon launches, and more, on the grounds of Greenfield Community College. 413-733-5463; greenriverfestival.com

AUG. 1–2: STURBRIDGE, Redcoats to Rebels. Old Sturbridge Village presents the region’s largest military reenactment, with nearly 1,000 soldiers portraying British, Irish, Spanish, Scottish, French, and Colonial troops. See the Village transformed into a military camp from the time of the War of Independence, and learn what it was really like for those who fought to win America’s freedoms. 508-3473362; osv.org

FOR HUNDREDS OF FAIRS, FESTIVALS, EXHIBITS, SHOWS, AND OTHER FUN ACTIVITIES, GO TO: YANKEEMAGAZINE.COM/EVENTS

CONNECTICUT

ATTRACTIONS

BEST FARM EXPERIENCE

SUNFLOWER MAZE AT LYMAN ORCHARDS, Middlefield

Sunflowers—350,000 of them—tower above your head, their wall-to-wall angelic faces glowing with daylight. This room without a roof is the happiest place you’ve ever been lost. The annual Sunflower Maze makes August the best month to visit the Lyman family’s agritainment complex, with pick-your-own fields, the Apple Barrel market, even 45 holes of golf. Maze proceeds benefit the Connecticut Children’s Medical Center’s pediatric-cancer unit. 32 Reeds Gap Road. 860-349-1793; lymanorchards.com/events/ sunflower-maze

BEST FREE MUSEUM

SUBMARINE FORCE MUSEUM

& HISTORIC SHIP NAUTILUS , Groton Climb down into the narrow passageways of the USS Nautilus and imagine a submerged voyage to the North Pole aboard this record-shattering, Connecticut-built vessel. Self-guided audio tours of the world’s first nuclear-powered submarine—which made science-nonfiction headlines by journeying 20,000 leagues under the sea—are

the highlight of visiting this U.S. Navy museum. 1 Crystal Lake Road. 860-694-3174; ussnautilus.org

» HISTORIC HIGHLIGHT

BEST CONCERT VENUE

INFINITY MUSIC HALL & BISTRO, Norfolk (1883)

Infinity has a new big sister in Hartford now, but the original 300-seat music hall still hosts the state’s most memorable concerts. Architecturally fabulous and acoustically superb, the venue is so intimate, it feels as though living legends are performing just for you. There’s even a chance that you’ll bump into performers in the bistro after the show. 20 Greenwoods Road. 866666-6306; infinityhall.com

BEST NEW DOWNTOWN STORRS CENTER, Storrs

Connecticut is rightfully proud of UConn’s academic and athletic accomplishments, and the all-new dining and shopping district that’s sprung up steps from campus is the place to embrace Huskymania. Tour the university’s colorful, free Ballard Institute & Museum of Puppetry. Shop for UConn gear at the Co-op.

Dine at Geno’s Grille, and take home the Hall of Fame women’s basketball coach’s almost-asfamous pasta sauces. 9 Dog Lane. storrscenter.com

BEST SHOE STORE

SHOENIVERSE, NORWICH

A 20,000-square-foot showroom with equivalent warehouse space below makes Shoeniverse New England’s largest shoe store. More shoes than you’ve ever imagined—in an insane range of styles and sizes for all—make it a shoe lover’s Shangri-la. Everything’s discounted even before the frequent sales. Owner Judy Legare is on a mission to make shoes an affordable indulgence: “like an ice cream cone.” 315 West Main St. 860886-0070; shoeniverse.us

BEST SPECIALTY WINES

ARRIGONI WINERY, Portland

Want to pair wine with pancakes or pumpkin pie? Arrigoni’s specialty wines are subtly crafted, and your tasting favorites may surprise you. Chocolate Love, a red blend, has just hints of the chocolate infused at the end. Smashed Pumpkin is a crisp, autumnal white made with locally grown fruit. And maple-syrup-sweetened Sugar House belongs on your breakfast table. 1287 Portland–Cobalt Road. 860-3421999; arrigoniwinery.com

BEST GARDEN REINCARNATION: THE GLEBE HOUSE MUSEUM & GERTRUDE JEKYLL GARDEN, Woodbury (listing opposite, top left)

» HISTORIC HIGHLIGHT

BEST GARDEN REINCARNATION

THE GLEBE HOUSE MUSEUM & GERTRUDE JEKYLL GARDEN, Woodbury (1925)

Famed horticulturist Gertrude Jekyll designed more than 400 gardens in Europe. She lent her touch to only three in the U.S., and Connecticut’s is the sole survivor. Garden lovers are enthralled by the story of how Jekyll’s plans for the Glebe House grounds were lost, then rediscovered after a half-century and brought to life. 49 Hollow Road. 203-263-2855; theglebehouse.org

BEST NOSTALGIC PICNIC SPOT

FROG ROCK REST STOP, Eastford

The boulder that State Representative T.J. Thurber painted in 1881 was a popular picnic backdrop for generations. But when Route 44 was straightened, Frog Rock was no longer roadside, and the site became overgrown and vandalized. In 2013, new landowner Joe Lernould repainted the quirky attraction and opened an antiques shop and food truck. It’s worth the drive for buttery hot dogs, lobster rolls, and photo ops. 212 Pomfret Road. 860-942-0131; frogrockreststop.com

BEST AUCTIONS

CANTON BARN, Canton

Forget eBay. Get in on the old-fashioned action, as auctioneer Richard Wacht and his partner, Susan Goralski, disperse estates before your eyes most Saturday nights. Order a slice of homemade pie, grab a seat cushion, and raise your hand to bid. There’s no buyer’s premium and no reserve. From fine furnishings to quirky possessions, everything’s going home with new owners. 75 Old Canton Road. 860-693-0601; cantonbarn.com

» HISTORIC HIGHLIGHT

BEST UNDERGROUND DESTINATION

CENTER CHURCH CRYPT, New Haven (1814)

Duck down into the basement of Center Church for a spine-tingling encounter with New Haven’s early settlers. Visiting hours on Thursdays and Saturdays April through October introduce you to the crypt’s inhabitants, who perished between 1687 and 1812. Notables include Benedict Arnold’s first wife and Rutherford Hayes’s ancestors. Colonial epitaphs still stir emotions. 311 Temple St. 203-787-0121; newhavencenterchurch.org/history.html

LODGING

BEST FAMILY CAMPGROUND

BEAR CREEK CAMPGROUND, Bristol

A day at Lake Compounce, America’s oldest amusement park, is doubly fun when you’re just

a short tram ride away from marshmallow toasting and movie nights. An on-site campground is Lake Compounce’s newest thrill. Bring your own tent or RV, or rent a cabin or handcrafted tipi—with electricity. Tent sites: from $35. 185 Enterprise Drive. 860-583-3300; campbear creek.com

BEST MOTEL MILESTONE INN, Woodbury

It’s a motel by definition: Doors open to the outside world. But once you’re behind closed guestroom doors at this affordable lodging option in the heart of antiques country, you’ll swear you’re staying at a fine country inn. Rates: from $80. 146 South Pomperaug Ave. 203-405-6261; milestoneinnct.com

BEST COLONIAL INN LATHROP MANOR, Norwich

When a house has stood longer than the U.S. has been a nation, its 12-over-12 windows still intact, its hand-hewn wood beams testament to colonial builders’ talents, its wide floorboards lovingly restored, it’s bound to pack some history. Sit down to breakfast at the period table that Marco Middleton crafted in his woodshop, and be wowed by course after course made with farm-fresh ingredients. Middleton, who owns this 1744 inn with wife, Sheryl, helmed kitchens at five-star resorts out West. 380 Washington St. Rates: from $150. 860-204-9448; lathropmanor.com

BEST GUEST HOUSE

THREE STORIES AT SAYBROOK POINT INN & SPA, Old Saybrook

The Saybrook Point Inn’s owners couldn’t bear to watch the 1892 Italianate mansion across the

street crumble. Their rescue effort, completed in 2014, has made eight designer rooms—themed to honor prominent locals, including Katharine Hepburn’s mother—available to adult guests. Alluring common areas include a rooftop deck, a Yale-themed lounge, and a billiards room with an intricately carved antique table. Rates: from $349. 2 Bridge St. 860-395-2000; saybrook.com/ rooms/three-stories

BEST WATERSIDE LUXURY

VILLAS BY THE SEA AT WATER’S EDGE, Westbrook

You can’t stay closer to the water in Connecticut than these 20 sleek, spacious two-bedroom suites outfitted with gourmet kitchens and gas fireplaces. Built in 2013 for eventual sale as private beach condos, the newest accommodations at the multifaceted and enduring Water’s Edge Resort sleep six and are rentable by the night or the week. Rates: from $750. 1525 Boston Post Road. 860-399-5901; ownwatersedge.com

DINING

BEST SUSHI

MIYA’S SUSHI, New Haven

Don’t expect tuna: This is futuristic sushi for the adventurous! Chef Bun Lai is so passionate about sustainability that he maintains his own seaweed and shellfish beds and trains his team to dive and fish. Do your part to rid the world of pests by selecting from the invasive-species menu. Ordering Kanibaba, a dish made with Asian shore crabs, is the tastiest thing you can do to clean up Long Island Sound. Sushi rolls: from $3. 68 Howe St. 203-777-9760; miyassushi.com

BEST BIG-CITY DINING IN COW COUNTRY: ARETHUSA AL TAVOLO, Litchfield (listing on p. 164)

Powerful Dramatic Unforgettable

BEST FLATBREADS

QUERCIBELLA, New Hartford

Chef Carl Rynecki is reinventing flatbread pizzas at this convivial little out-of-the-way eatery. The only thing more enticing than sampling his delectably quirky, farm-to-table-inspired topping combos, such as Marwin Farm duck sausage, d’Anjou pear, cranberry, goat cheese, arugula, and candied pecans, is perusing the enormous list of specialty and locally sourced ingredients and inventing your own wood-grilled sensation. Flatbreads: from $14. 280D Main St. 860-238-4261; quercibella.com

BEST BAR FOOD

ENGINE ROOM, Mystic

Want bacon-fat caramel popcorn with that “BIG stack” double cheeseburger with smoky secret sauce? That’s an easy decision compared with choosing from 50+ rare and wideranging bottled and draft beers. The team that catapulted Mystic’s Oyster Club to acclaim has transformed the riverside Lathrop Marine Engine factory into the home of grown-up happy meals. Entrées: from $12. 14 Holmes St. 860-415-8117; engineroomct.com

BEST HIDDEN LOBSTER SHACK

LOBSTER LANDING, Clinton

Situated down a narrow drive, this marina-side shack is tricky to find. Don’t bother searching online; they don’t have a website. What they do have—headlining a menu board that typically features only three items—is toasted sub rolls loaded with a quarter-pound of freshly shelled, lemon-spritzed, butter-slathered lobster. A heated tent extends the season through December. Lobster rolls: $16. 152 Commerce St. 860-669-2005

BEST BIG-CITY DINING IN COW COUNTRY ARETHUSA AL TAVOLO, Litchfield

Arethusa Farm owners and Manolo Blahnik execs George Malkemus and Anthony Yurgaitis added a restaurant to their agrarian empire in 2013. Chef Dan Magill styles dishes such as Foraged Mushrooms & Arethusa Camembert Ravioli with primo ingredients, including dairy delights from Arethusa’s famously pampered cows. Service is extraordinary; the vibe unpretentious. You’ll wish that every meal of your life ended as blissfully with a shot glass of milk and a cookie. Entrées: from $25. 828 Bantam Road. 860-567-0043; arethusaaltavolo.com

BEST LOCAVORE EXPERIENCE COMMUNITY TABLE, Washington

Yes, that’s a beehive out back: Taste the honey in a Bee’s Knees cocktail as you’re indoctrinated into the practice of mindful dining. Chef Joel Viehland sources raw materials from a who’s who of local, ethical growers, foragers, and producers. The black-walnut tables were made from trees cut down in the back yard and the hand soaps in the restrooms are made by the pastry chef.

(continued on p. 167)

SPOTLIGHT: THE GOLD COAST

ATTRACTIONS

BEST ADULTS-ONLY MUSEUM

CONNECTICUT AIR & SPACE CENTER, Stratford

Connecticut’s own mini-Smithsonian runs on devotion. Thanks to volunteers’ painstaking efforts, remarkable aircraft and artifacts that tell the tale of Connecticut’s preeminent place in aviation history are preserved within this living museum, where you can observe helicopter and airplane restoration work in progress. Its current location inside a federal installation necessitates visitors be age 18 or over. 550 Main St. 203-380-1400; casc stratford.wordpress.com

BEST RELAXATION

SALTANA CAVE, Ridgefield

Her asthmatic daughter benefited from time in a man-made salt cave in Poland, so Anna Husted built a sanctuary with tons of Himalayan salt rocks. Within this glowing pink cave, you’ll experience utter tranquility while drifting away in a zero-gravity chair. Even if you doubt salt’s therapeutic powers, you may be tempted to head immediately back in for another 45-minute session. 590 Danbury Road. 203-969-4327; saltanacave.com

BEST TOWN BEACH

JENNINGS BEACH, Fairfield

Plentiful parking, a “sandcastle” playground, a patriotic pier lined with American flags snapping in the breeze, a skate park, a con-

cession stand with affordable fare, including tender fried shrimp with zingy cocktail sauce … Oh, and the town’s largest public beach, where lifeguards watch over swimmers and warm sand lulls sunbathers to sleep. Parking: $20 weekdays, $50 weekends and holidays, Memorial Day through Labor Day. 880 South Benson Road. 203-256-3191; fairfieldct.org/ content/2765/2783/3418.aspx

LODGING

BEST GOURMAND GETAWAY

HOMESTEAD INN/THOMAS HENKELMANN, Greenwich

This Euro-sophisticated escape earns accolades for both Thomas Henkelmann’s exquisite, contemporary French cuisine and Theresa Henkelmann’s impeccable eye for bold, inviting interiors. Masterfully married ingredients and exotic design elements achieve the couple’s objective of enchanting and transporting guests. Rates: from $350. Entrées: from $38. 420 Field Point Road. 203-869-7500; homesteadinn.com

BEST INN ON THE SOUND

THE INN AT LONGSHORE, Westport

Situated between a stunning curve of shoreline and a historic public golf course built as an exclusive private club in 1929, the Inn at Longshore has a dozen rooms. Often occupied by wedding guests on weekends, they’re quite a value midweek and off-season. Rates: from $139. 260 South Compo Road. 203-2263316; innatlongshore.com

BEST DOG-FRIENDLY HOTEL

DELAMAR GREENWICH HARBOR, Greenwich

It’s happened: Humans have actually ex pressed jealousy over the pampering that dogs receive at this stylish waterside hotel. From treats at check-in to their own cuddly beds to bottled mineral water at turndown, pups enjoy every creature comfort on designated dog-friendly floors. Walking and grooming services are available, and a portion of the nightly pet fee supports Adopt-a-Dog. Rates: from $299; $50 pet fee. 500 Steamboat Road. 203-661-9800; delamargreenwich.com

DINING

BEST GARDEN LOVER’S RESTAURANT TERRAIN GARDEN CAFÉ, Westport

Tucked inside Terrain, a shop that’s pure Eden for gardeners, is an equally divine indoor/outdoor restaurant, where the conservatory-like setting and seasonally evolving fare soothe and satisfy the senses. Chef Alissa Svorka builds a five-course tasting dinner, which can be ordered as a feast for two with 10 different dishes, using the epitome of locally procurable ingredients, from heirloom carrots to Stonington scallops. Entrées: from $19. 561 Post Road East. 203-226-2742; shopterrain.com/westportrestaurant

BEST GOLD-COAST MEAL DEAL VALENCIA LUNCHERIA, Norwalk

Never had arepas ? Neither had television host Guy Fieri when he put this tiny, strip-mall Venezuelan beach-food restaurant on the map. Now in larger digs with a “Beach Patio”for outdoor diners, it’s a budget-conscious place to load up on Latin American comfort foods. Pair arepas—corn cakes fried and filled with everything from beef to bananas—with freshsqueezed juices. Arepas: from $3.75. 164 Main St. 203-846-8009; valencialuncheria.com

BEST LOADED HOT DOGS SUPER DUPER WEENIE, Fairfield

Put America’s favorite tubular food in the hands of a Culinary Institute of America grad, et voilà! People drive miles to get their hands (and you’ll need both, plus extra napkins) on chef Gary Zemola’s meals on a bun. The New Englander—a butter-grilled dog piled with sauerkraut, bacon, mustard, homemade sweet relish, and raw onion—is legendary. Specialty hot dogs from: $3.75. 306 Black Rock Turnpike. 203-334-3647; superduperweenie.com

BEST TOWN BEACH: JENNINGS BEACH, Fairfield (listing above)

Entrées: from $24. 223 Litchfield Turnpike. 860868-9354; communitytablect.com

BEST CUPCAKES

HARDCORE SWEET CUPCAKES, Watertown

He plays guitar in a hardcore punk band and rocks at rolling fondant. She went from baking for their kids’ parties to inventing decadent grown-up treats like Drunk Jack Balls (beerfudge and pumpkin-ale cake truffles). Since winning Cupcake Wars in 2013, Jeremy and Nicole Braddock’s edgy, irreverent sweets have been all the rage. 20 Main St. 860-417-6660; hardcoresweetcupcakes.com

BEST SPORTS BAR

BOBBY V’S RESTAURANT & SPORTS BAR, Windsor Locks

Connecticut native and former Major League Baseball manager Bobby Valentine’s latest venture isn’t fandom central just because the largest of its 70+ indoor and outdoor TVs is 17 feet wide. Culinary Institute of America–trained chef Jordan Stein hits a home run with filet mignon sliders and nachos grande enough to be a meal. Entrées: from $9. 11 Schoephoester Road. 860-627-5808; bobbyvsrestaurant.com

BEST MEATLESS CAFÉ

THE MUSICAL FOREST CAFÉ, North Haven

Think meatless dining isn’t satisfying? Try the vegan-bacon mac-and-cheese panini at this tiny tiki bar inside the Music Center of North Haven. When owner Mark Minotti’s serious illness responded positively to a macrobiotic diet, he decided to share his newfound knowledge. Burgers, Philly cheesesteak, and Costa Rican empanadas are all on the menu, as are vegan baked goods. Minotti handmakes all of the “meats.” Lunches: from $6.95. 473 Washington Ave. 203-234-8865; musiccenternorth.com/ Stagetime-Cafe.html

BARGAINS

BEST BYOF (BRING YOUR OWN FOOD) FIREFLY HOLLOW BREWING, Bristol

Brewmaster Dana Bourque, who started homebrewing with his dad and “couldn’t stop,” has concocted more than 30 different beers since he and 10 partners opened this 10-barrel microbrewery in an old warehouse in October 2013. The taproom’s hyperfocus on pouring what’s fresh from the tanks means that you’re encouraged to bring whatever food pairings you crave. The trendy BYOF policy will save you money on food and tips, so you can bring a growler of beer home. 139 Center St. 860-8458977; fireflyhollowbrewing.com

Hear tales of the artists who stayed here a century ago. Discuss art in the galleries. Have lunch on the veranda. Stroll the gardens or even recreate them on our Make-a-Painting Sundays. A day of simple pleasures will certainly be had.

BEST FREE RIDE

SIMSBURY FREE BIKE, Simsbury

Launched with six loaners in 2011, Connecticut’s largest bike share now offers more than 50 bicycles at 14 locations in five Farmington Valley towns, with access to a vast network of paved trails. A $10 refundable deposit lets riders 18 and up borrow bikes, helmets, and locks for up to 24 hours. simsbury.bike

BEST FREE ANIMAL ATTRACTION

RAY OF LIGHT FARM, East Haddam

Ever felt an instant bond with a shelter cat or dog? The same sense of joy and attachment fuels repeat visits to this nonprofit haven for hard-luck livestock. Wander among the rescued horses and barnyard menagerie (daily except Wednesday); there’s no admission, not even fistfuls of food to buy. Donations and $10 kids’ pony rides (Thursday to Saturday) fund the farm’s rehab and adoption efforts and therapeutic riding programs. 232 Town St. 860-873-1895; rayoflightfarm.org

BEST AFFORDABLE ANTIQUES

PRIME FINDS, Salisbury

Attractive window displays lure curious browsers, and once inside, the price tags make their eyes pop. This is a thrift shop—but stocked with antiques—where generous homeowners’ fine castoffs are sold at bargain prices to fund Prime Time House, a nonprofit that helps individuals with serious mental illness regain independence. 2 Main St. 860-435-9709; prime timehouse.org/prime_finds.asp

BEST FREE CONCERTS

MOHEGAN SUN WOLF DEN, Uncasville

Ask anyone in Connecticut to share ultimate concert experiences, and you’ll likely hear about the Wolf Den. The list of recording stars who’ve played this cave-like, 300-seat venue at the heart of Mohegan Sun’s original Casino of the Earth is astounding, considering that nightly shows are free. Alums include Frankie Valli, Peter Frampton, Duran Duran, Blake Shelton, and Matt Nathanson. 1 Mohegan Sun Blvd. 888-226-7711; mohegansun.com/poi/venues/wolf-den.html

CLASSICS

» HISTORIC HIGHLIGHT

BEST CLAMS

THE PLACE, Guilford (1940s)

They arrive at your table in a bath of buttery cocktail sauce, still on a grill grate, straight off the wood fire. Instantly you understand why folks have been pulling off Route 1 to savor roasted littlenecks here since 1971. Actually, this casual, seasonal clambake restaurant’s origins stretch back to the 1940s, and one other thing has never changed: tree stumps for seats. 901 Boston Post Road. 203453-9276; theplaceguilford.com

» HISTORIC HIGHLIGHT

BEST THROWBACK BAR

THE OWL SHOP, New Haven (1934)

A drink and a smoke? It’s outlawed just about everywhere except at this warm, masculine, well-ventilated cigar bar, where live jazz packs the house on Tuesday and Wednesday nights. Why? This landmark’s long history as a tobacconist exempts it from smoke-free statutes. Joe Lentine has handcrafted the shop’s aficionado-caliber tobacco blends since 1964. 268 College St. 203-624-3250; owlshopcigars.com

» HISTORIC HIGHLIGHT

BEST ARTS HUB

FLORENCE GRISWOLD MUSEUM, Old Lyme (1947)

Florence Griswold’s boardinghouse became the epicenter of American Impressionism when she hosted preeminent painters in the early 20th century. This 11-acre museum complex strives to remain Creativity Central, with a packed calendar of programs like Make-a-Painting Sundays, Art Bar happy-hour workshops, outdoor festivals, and changing exhibits. 96 Lyme St. 860-434-5542; florencegriswold museum.org

» HISTORIC HIGHLIGHT

BEST ART-HOUSE CINEMA

BANTAM CINEMA, Bantam (1927)

The first moviegoers to escape reality inside this barn-like, two-screen theatre watched silent flicks with organ accompaniment. That was 1927, and Connecticut’s oldest continuously operating movie house finally ditched its 1930s-vintage equipment for a digital projection system in 2013. If they ever abandon real butter, those who adore the popcorn and eclectic films will surely revolt. 115 Bantam Lake Road. 860-567-1916; bantamcinema.com

» HISTORIC HIGHLIGHT

BEST CENTURY-OLD RIDE

BUSHNELL PARK CAROUSEL, Hartford (1914)

Hartford’s treasured merry-go-round, with its 48 meticulously restored, hand-carved wooden horses—one of fewer than 200 survivors of carousels’ golden age—turned 100 in 2014. This year, she receives a fitting gift. The pavilion that houses this antique ride has been renovated with heat and indoor restrooms to enable year-round operation. Spins on this work of art remain $1. 1 Jewell St. 860-585-5411; thecarouselmuseum.org

OUTDOORS

BEST MINIATURE GOLF

MINI-GOLF AT SAYBROOK POINT, Old Saybrook

If your putting’s not up to par, you’ll love this picture-perfect course, where distracting views of Long Island Sound and shorebirds soaring overhead are a convenient excuse when you miss a shot. Rebuilt in 2013 following the destruction wreaked by Superstorm Sandy, its features are modeled after town landmarks like Saybrook Breakwater Lighthouse and Fort Saybrook. 154 College St. 860-388-2407; oldsaybrookrec.com

BEST BLUEBERRY FARM

OLD BARN FARM, Goshen

Grab a blue pail, and try to resist the urge to race like a kid toward the meticulously cultivated rows of bushes at this solar-powered pick-yourown farm, which grows just one crop exceedingly well: blueberries. With 19 early-, mid- and late-season varieties of these antioxidant-rich gems, a long harvest season typically runs from July through early August. 300 Bartholomew Hill Road. 860-491-0017; oldbarnfarmct.com

BEST CAR BUFF’S NIGHT OUT MARK’S CLASSIC CRUISE, East Granby

A ’28 Plymouth sedan. A ’68 Camaro Z/28. A ’14 Corvette Stingray. Monday nights May through September, a 25-acre plot becomes a field of dreams for automobile enthusiasts. At 20 years old, New England’s largest weekly cruise night is already a classic. Admission’s free, and more than 800 heart-stopping vehicles turn out on perfect-weather evenings. Russell Road. 800842-7490; markscruisenight.com

BEST 9-HOLE GOLF COURSE HOTCHKISS SCHOOL GOLF COURSE, Lakeville

Perhaps you never had the wherewithal to attend a classic New England prep school in the Berkshire foothills. But if you have $15, you can play nine challenging holes at this campus course designed by Seth Raynor. It’s open for public play daily after 11:00 a.m. 40 Interlaken Road 860-435-4400; hotchkiss.org

BEST FLY-FISHING OUTFITTER UPCOUNTRY SPORTFISHING, Pine Meadow

In-the-know anglers realize that active stocking and thoughtful management have made the Farmington River’s West Branch home to the state’s densest population of big trout. Ideally situated on the Farmington’s banks, UpCountry offers gear, bait, fly-tying instruction, expert guide service, even a $100-a-night three-bed apartment for visitors eager to chase 20-inch fish. 352 Main St. 860-379-1952; farmington river.com

TOP 20 CONNECTICUT EVENTS

MAY 1–3: HARTFORD, 34th Annual Fine Art & Flowers. The Wadsworth Atheneum Museum of Art’s premier spring fundraiser features floral arrangements and garden designs inspired by works of art in the museum’s collections. Special events, tours, and a marketplace featuring hand-made goods by local vendors round out the festivities. 860278-2670; thewadsworth.org

MAY 2: SOMERS, New England Regional Chili Cook Off. The International Chili Society sanctions this competition as a benefit for the local fire department, held at Pleasant View Golf Center. Hot-pepper and hot-wings eating contests, lots of music, good food, and more. chilict.com

MAY 8–9: FARMINGTON, May Market. The annual plant and craft emporium brings more than 70 exhibitors to the beautifully landscaped grounds of Hill–Stead Museum. This treasure trove of hard-to-find perennials also offers hints from Master Gardeners, gardening and cooking demonstrations, fine artisanal wares, kids’ activities, and more. 860-677-4787; hillstead.org

MAY 9: COVENTRY, Connecticut Glass Museum’s 11th Annual Antique Glass & Bottles Show & Sale. On the grounds of the historic Coventry Glass Works, stroll exhibits of antique glass and chat with collectors offering items for sale. Admission includes a tour of the Turner House and site of the future museum. 860633-2944; glassmuseum.org

MAY 22–24: STAMFORD, Connecticut Salsa Fest. The 11th annual fundraiser for St. Jude Children’s Hospital features live salsa bands, dance showcases, workshops for both beginning and more-advanced salsa dancers, plus a free community party on Saturday, all at Stamford Marriott Hotel & Spa. 203-9186910; ctsalsafest.com

MAY 23–25: MYSTIC, Annual Lobster Days. Mystic Seaport’s lobster celebration serves up lots of yummy fare, and you can partake with a clear conscience, since proceeds are distributed to local charities. Purchase a combination ticket for food and museum for the best deal. 860572-0711; mysticseaport.org

JUNE 6–7: WEST HARTFORD, Celebrate West Hartford. This community fair combines a festival with business, civic, and charitable engagement. At the center of the action is a juried arts and crafts show featuring the work of more than 170 artisans. Carnival rides, gourmet cuisine, and festival-food favorites, a 5K race, local music, and exhibits by businesses and nonprofits round out the fun. 860-5617512; celebratewesthartford.com

JUNE 13: MIDDLETOWN, Strawberry Fest. Lyman Orchards celebrates the first fruit of the season with a day that includes music, free tastings of strawberry treats, pie-eating contests, horse-drawn wagon rides, hamburgers, hot

JUNE 11–14: MYSTIC, 36th Sea Music Festival. Mystic Seaport hosts performers from around the globe who carry on the classic musical traditions of the Golden Age of Sail. A two-day “Music of the Sea” symposium is set for the nearby Connecticut College campus, along with concerts, kids’ shows, instructional workshops, and plenty of sea music performed aboard the Museum’s historic vessels. 860-572-0711; mysticseaport.org

dogs, ice cream, and more. 860-349-1793; lymanorchards.com

JUNE 13–27: NEW HAVEN, International Festival of Arts & Ideas. Ambitious music, dance, and theatre programs fill New Haven with renowned international stars and newly discovered artists performing in concerts on the town green, plus additional activities throughout the city. 203-498-1212; artidea.org

JUNE 14–SEPT. 27: FALLS VILLAGE, Music Mountain. Looking for a unique musical experience? Make plans to attend a concert of classical, jazz, or even country music amidst the beautiful and inspiring setting of Gordon Hall. Check the website for the schedule. 860-824-7626; musicmountain.org

JUNE 22–28: CROMWELL, Travelers Golf Championship. More than 150 of the world’s top golfers converge on TPC River Highlands to compete for more than $6 million in prize money. An interactive Fan Zone and familyfriendly events round out the fun. 866-8408821; travelerschampionship.com

JUNE 26–28: MYSTIC, Mystic Blues Festival. Now in its third year, this festival showcases an array of blues legends at the beautiful

Mystic Shipyard, all in support of a good cause (The Center for Hospice Care). mysticblues festival.com

JUNE 28: STATEWIDE, Historic Gardens Day. Distinctive historic sites and gardens across the state, from Roseland Cottage to the Florence Griswold Museum and more, celebrate with special activities and events. Hours, activities, and prices vary by location. cthistoric gardens.org

JULY 4–5: NIANTIC, Arts & Craft Show and Lobsterfest. On the grounds of the Niantic Town Hall, quality artwork and good food share center stage as the Lions Club presents its annual cookout featuring lobster, barbecued chicken, corn on the cob, hot dogs, burgers, curly fries, ice cream, and more, in tandem with the club’s 55th juried art show. 860-739-2805; nianticlions.org

JULY 11: HARTFORD, Riverfest. The largest free one-day fireworks celebration in Connecticut takes place at Riverfront Plaza and Great River Park: live bands, clowns and street entertainers, kids’ activities, and of course, a dazzling fireworks show over the river. 860713-3131; riverfront.org

JULY 17–19: HARTFORD, Greater Hartford Festival of Jazz. Since it was launched by bassist Paul Brown in 1992, this festival has played host to many of the biggest names in jazz, along with up-and-comers from the New England scene. Bushnell Park; admission is free. hartford jazz.com

AUGUST 7–9: LEBANON, Lebanon Country Fair. Now in its 56th year, this true community event returns to the fairgrounds on Mack Road. Music, competitions, and kids’ events, plus fine food offerings, sponsored by the local Lions Club. 860-642-6012; lebanon countryfair.org

AUGUST 8–9: MYSTIC, 58th Outdoor Art Festival. This excellent show features 250 fine artists exhibiting oils, watercolors, photography, pastels, sculptures, and acrylics, plus another 60 or so craftsmen offering creative works for sale. Enjoy delectable food offerings, kids’ activities, and more, all across town. 860-5729578; mysticchamber.org

AUGUST 15: MILFORD, Milford Oyster Festival. Celebrate the town’s legacy with a wide variety of oysters to eat and purchase, plus a shucking contest, while bands take the stage at Fowler Park. Recent headliners have included Bret Michaels, Blues Traveler, and Kansas. Artisans, kids’ rides and games, a vast selection of foods, and much more round out the family fun. 203-878-5363; milfordoysterfestival.com

Call ahead to confirm dates, schedules, and admission prices. To submit an event for possible publication, go to: YankeeMagazine.com/submitevent

FOR HUNDREDS OF FAIRS, FESTIVALS, EXHIBITS, SHOWS, AND OTHER FUN ACTIVITIES, GO TO: YANKEEMAGAZINE.COM/EVENTS

RHODE ISLAND

ATTRACTIONS

BEST DISTILLERY

SONS OF LIBERTY SPIRITS CO.,

South Kingstown

Southern makers have the whiskey market cornered, but don’t underestimate Yankee ingenuity. Whiskey begins as beer, and Sons of Liberty’s founder realized that seasonal and craft brews could yield unique spirits. Try “Pumpkin Spice”—it’s made with locally harvested pumpkins and was named “best-flavored” at 2014’s World Whiskies Awards. Tours offered. 1425 Kingstown Road. 401-284-4006; solspirits.com

BEST ENCHANTING BOAT RIDE

LA GONDOLA, Providence

It’s an authentic Venetian gondola ride without the plane ticket. As serenading boatmen steer these graceful river craft, many an endearment has been whispered. Bring your own bottle of bubbly to sip as the city’s sights light up at night.

WaterFire evenings—the ultimate in romance— are booked far in advance. From $89 for two.

1 Citizens Plaza. 401-421-8877; gondolari.com

BEST OVERLOOKED MUSEUM

MUSEUM OF WORK & CULTURE, Woonsocket

Step into the lives of the French Canadian and other immigrants who poured into the Blackstone River Valley as the textile industry boomed. Walk-through, multimedia, and hands-on exhibits show how people—not just machines— powered America’s Industrial Revolution. 42 South Main St. 401-769-9675; rihs.org/museums/ museum-of-work-and-culture/

BEST ON-SITE ARTISANS

DOWNTOWN DESIGNS, Newport

Rhode Island was the first state to exempt citizens’ creative works from sales tax. But your joy in purchasing one-of-a-kind beaded jewelry, paintings, photography, pottery, and upcycled artwork from this weekdays-only gallery won’t

stem from tax savings. You’d never guess— until you meet the artisans—that they’ve overcome disabilities to craft their livelihoods. 7 Dr. Marcus F. Wheatland Blvd. 401-845-9661; downtowndesignsnewport.com

» HISTORIC HIGHLIGHT

BEST OPEN-AIR MUSEUM

SWAN POINT CEMETERY, Providence (1846)

It’s where the tormented mind of Providence’s own horror master, H.P. Lovecraft, lies at rest, and where Edgar Allen Poe’s beloved rejected his marriage proposal: a 200-acre plot on the Seekonk River’s banks populated by angels with bowed heads. And yet, this 169-year-old garden cemetery is a lush park for the living, where every turn on a walk, drive, or bike ride unveils moving art and epitaphs. 585 Blackstone Blvd. 401-2721314; swanpointcemetery.com

BEST MANSION FOR KIDS: THE BREAKERS, Newport (listing opposite, top left)

BEST MANSION FOR KIDS

THE BREAKERS, Newport

“I don’t like to brag, but I’m the biggest one,” says the voice on the family audio tour at the Vanderbilts’ 70-room “cottage” on mansion row. Yes, the Breakers is speaking to you. And the same children who rolled their eyes about touring an old house are instantly enthralled. By the time you reach the kitchen, they’ll be sad to relinquish their headphones. 44 Ochre Point Ave. 401-847-1000; newportmansions.org/explore/ the-breakers

LODGING

BEST PET-FRIENDLY

INN

THE DARIUS INN, Block Island

Dogs travel free on the Block Island Ferry, and island beaches are open to leashed puppies. But where will you stay? Easy! Vibrant, casual, energetic, fun—all describe can-do sisters Christy and Becca Zendt and the centrally located, shabby-chic beach house they run, where five first-floor suites are pet-friendly. Rates: from $95. 62 Dodge St. 401-465-6357; dariusblock island.com

BEST RETREAT HOUSE

PARADISE FARMHOUSE AT NORMAN BIRD SANCTUARY, Middletown

A thoughtful renovation and update, in keeping with its National Register of Historic Places status, has transformed a centuries-old structure into a bright, airy, six-bedroom refuge on the grounds of Newport County’s largest wildlife sanctuary. Reserve the farmhouse for a private eco-escape or retreat of your own design, or find rooms available by the night in conjunction with birding programs hosted at this 325-acre site. 583 Third Beach Road. 401-846-2577; norman birdsanctuary.org/farmhouse

BEST CAPITAL DIGS

THE DEAN, Providence

Think European hostel meets minimalist, midcentury American home inside an art professor’s apartment, and you’ll intuit the vibe at Providence’s sleek new boutique hotel. Yes, you can snooze in bunk beds if you choose. Karaoke in The Boombox is also optional. The staff’s genuine desire to assist makes this the ideal crashpad for city newcomers. Rates: from $99. 122 Fountain St. 401-455-3326; thedeanhotel.com

BEST BEACH VALUE

THE ANCHOR MOTEL, Narragansett

A family beach vacation is within your budget. This clean, comfy motel is just steps across the street from Rhode Island’s most popular sandbox, Scarborough State Beach. All 15 rooms boast ocean views. Kids 10 and under stay free; parking’s free; beach admission’s free. Coffee and doughnuts? Also free for guests in the B & B rooms. Rates: from $99. 825 Ocean Road. 401792-8550; theanchormotel.com

SPOTLIGHT: NARRAGANSETT BAY

ATTRACTIONS

BEST PETTING ZOO

BIOMES MARINE BIOLOGY CENTER, North Kingstown

If it inhabits Narragansett Bay, chances are you can observe it and maybe even touch it at this private marine-education center. Devoted staff and volunteers have assembled the most diverse collection of New England marine life you can see anywhere, and open tanks invite you to pet stingrays, skates, sea urchins, horseshoe crabs, sharks, and a tortoise. 6640 Post Road. 401-885-4690; biomescenter.com

BEST RAIL TRAIL

EAST BAY BIKE PATH, Providence to Bristol

Sights, sounds, and scents of the bay accompany your walk or ride along any or all of this 14.5-mile shoreside path from Providence’s India Point Park to Independence Park in Bristol. Possible stops include photo ops, a Crescent Park Carousel ride, wildlife watching at Audubon’s Environmental Education Center, and Del’s frozen lemonade at Colt State Park. dot.ri.gov/community/bikeri/ eastbay.php

BEST EQUESTRIAN ADVENTURES

C & L STABLES, Warwick

Horseback riding on the beach is affordable for the whole family at this busy barn, operating year-round within Goddard Memorial State Park. Pony rides for young horse lovers and hour-long bridle-trail rides are options, but the peak experience—even for beginners—is a 90-minute or two-hour bayside beach ride with an enthusiastic professional guide. 1095 Ives Road. 401-886-5246; candl stables.info

LODGING

BEST FAMILY HIDEAWAY

WYNDHAM BAY VOYAGE INN, Jamestown

From the outdoor pool, you can gaze at sailboats sliding across Narragansett Bay and feel much farther than 5 miles from the hubbub of Newport. A convenient retreat for families, this all-suite property offers modern comforts while retaining its original Victorian feel. Rates: from $180. 150 Conanicus Ave. 401-423-2100; wyndhambayvoyageinn.com

BEST BAY-VIEW INN

3 ROYAL WATERFRONT SUITES, Warwick Effervescent innkeeper (and avid baker) Daneish Hazard has made over her home on

Narragansett Bay as a couples’ haven with a trio of spacious, yet intimate bedchambers. A decadent, customized morning meal is served en suite, but guests almost never eat breakfast in bed when they can savor bay views from their private porches. Rates: from $139. 3 Royal Ave. 401-323-3290; 3royal.com

BEST HOTEL ALTERNATIVE SLEEP ABOARD, Providence

Just upriver from the bay, globetrotting sailor and motorcyclist Neil Malik has discovered a port adventurous enough to call home, and he’s amassing a petite fleet of floating accommodations to share the experience of urban marina living. Choose a houseboat, modern MetroShip, or stunning 61-foot Hendel yacht for a memorable overnight stay. Rates: from $220 for 4. 525 South Water St. 617-2337161; sleep-aboard.com

DINING

BEST PAIRINGS

JAMESTOWN FISH, Jamestown

Quadrilingual chef Matthew MacCartney is as meticulous about building his wine and beer lists as he is playful with his alwaysevolving menu of ingeniously spiced and artfully plated local seafood. And he’s practically giddy when connoisseurs of either beverage recognize and order one of the limited-edition beers or rare bottles of wine he’s acquired. 14 Narragansett Ave. 401-4233474; jamestownfishri.com

BEST SEAFOOD ON THE BAY QUITO’S, Bristol

A trio of chowders … a heaping plate of scampi loaded with shrimp, littlenecks, lobster, mussels, or calamari … Fresh seafood meets Italian cooking’s flair for overabundance at this casual, boisterous, seasonal eatery. Whether you’re sittin’ on the dock overlooking the bay or inside by the fireplace on cool evenings, you’ll be wishin’ you never had to leave Rhode Island. Entrées from: $13. 411 Thames St. 401–253–4500; quitosrestaurant.com

BEST FISH CHOWDER

MELVILLE GRILLE, Portsmouth

Boat or drive to the marina-side restaurant at East Passage Yachting Center for the staff’s Portuguese fish chowder. Chef/owner Scott Cowell loads this decadent, paprika-pink soup with scallops, shrimp, cod, and mild chouriço. It’s twice been named seafood-chowder champ at Newport’s prestigious Great Chowder Cook-Off. Cup: $4.95. 1 Lagoon Road. 401-683-4400; melvillegrille.com

» HISTORIC HIGHLIGHT

BEST VILLA-STYLE STAYS

WATCH HILL INN, Watch Hill (1845)

With all the amenities of its acclaimed sister property, Ocean House, just a short walk away, this lavishly remodeled allsuite, coastal-chic property gives families and small groups a luxurious option for extended stays. With ultra-modern kitchens, in-room laundry, waterview terraces, and designer touches, these 650- to 4,000-square-foot accommodations feel like dream homes. Rates: from $455. 38–44 Bay St. 401-584-7400; watchhillinn.com

DINING

BEST FULL ALL-DAY BREAKFAST

CORNER CAFÉ, Newport

Imagine: a breakfast sandwich so enormous you can’t hoist it, even though it’s cut in half. Or Portuguese sweet-bread so heaped with scrambled eggs, chouriço, red peppers, and feta you may never find it. Locals know that this cramped but cheery Euro-café is the place to overfill for under

$10. Breakfast: from $4.75. 110 Broadway St. 401-846-0606; cornercafenewport.com

BEST DOUGHNUTS

PAYNE’S DONUTS, Block Island

Payne’s proves that doughnuts don’t have to come in a gajillion flavors to be crave-worthy every day. This tiny walk-up window isn’t exaggerating its “Home of the Killer Donuts!” claim, even though selection is limited to sugar, cinnamon, and plain. These tender homemade orbs, crisp and warm on the outside, are a beloved a.m. treat. Doughnuts: $1 each. 1 Ocean Ave. 401-466-5758

BEST ROOFTOP BAR

ROOFTOP AT THE PROVIDENCEG, Providence

A seven-story elevator ride lands you among the chic locals and in-the-know out-of-towners nibbling raw-bar selections and eclectic small plates while sipping cocktails with high-altitude prices. It’s the cost of admission to mingle on this posh patio with sparkling nighttime views. Small plates: from $10. 100 Dorrance St. 401-632-4904; providenceg.com/venues/rooftop-at-the-providenceg

BEST NEWPORT NEWCOMER

REVOLVING DOOR, Newport

A new chef every two to four weeks: No, it’s not a restaurant owner’s worst nightmare. It’s the

concept that ensures that Albert and Sarah Bouchard’s latest venture will perpetually be Newport’s most buzz-worthy dining experience. Short stints by well-vetted guest chefs challenge barman Jason Kindness to continually invent rum-centric cocktail pairings, too. Entrées: from $24. 509 Thames St. 401-846-0400; revolvingdoor ri.com

BEST FEAST

NORDIC LODGE, Charlestown

It’s the buffet to beat all buffets, where even seawater-boiled whole lobsters are all-you-can-eat. Owned by the Persson family for more than 50 years, the formula here is equal parts quantity and quality. The price to feast on 100+ menu items is steep, but it’s free to walk or nap off your meal on the picturesque grounds. Adults: $91. 178 East Pasquiset Trail. 401-783-4525; nordiclodge.com

BEST INVENTIVE BAKED GOODS

NORTH BAKERY, Providence

A pastry chef without a sweet tooth? Kelly Dull admits that it’s the pastry world’s artistry that inspired her studies at Johnson & Wales. Here, savory muffins, scones, and hand pies coexist with sugary treats. Salt-dusted chocolate-chip cookies outsell them all. Pastries: from $1 each. 70 Battey St. 401-421-4062; northbakery.com

travel

BARGAINS

BEST DINING DEAL

PROVIDENCE RESTAURANT WEEKS, Providence

Providence is the rare New England destination where summer is the low season, so restaurants entice diners away from beaches and back into the city during Restaurant Weeks, July 12–25 this year. Nearly 100 venues in the state’s northern half participate, offering three-course lunch and dinner menus at value prices. Lunch: $14.95. Dinner: $29.95 or $34.95. providencerestaurantweeks.com

BEST CHEAP NIGHT OUT

MISQUAMICUT DRIVE-IN MOVIE NIGHT, Westerly

At the retro price of $10 per carload, drive-in movies at Wuskenau Town Beach are affordable for your whole crew. Favorite classic movies such as E.T., Jaws, Goonies, Saturday Night Fever, Jurassic Park, and The Wizard of Oz will be screened on Friday nights from May 15 through June; Thursday nights in July and August, plus Friday, July 3; and Friday nights in September and October. 316 Atlantic Ave. 401-322-1026; misquamicut.org

BEST NO-FRILLS BREWERY

WHALER’S BREWING COMPANY, Wakefield

It’s like chilling in the basement with your best buddies—only these three guys are perfecting complex, robust ales and can’t wait for your feedback. With their brewery aspirations propelled by a Kickstarter home run, Whaler’s owners are creating a destination for beer connoisseurs, while ramping up local distribution. Your $8 souvenir tulip glass lets you taste everything on tap, including signature Hazelnut Cream Stout and potent 9.5% alcohol American Strong Ale, plus all their latest experiments. 1070 Kingstown Road. 401-284-7785; whalersbrewing.com

BEST PLACE TO KICK UP YOUR HEELS

MISHNOCK BARN, West Greenwich

Don’t know your lindy from your rocking chair? Country-dance instructors Dan and Kelly Albro will have you burning up the floor on Beginners’ Nights Monday through Wednesday. It’s just $9 for an adults-only evening out that beats your usual workout—unless your gym has a bar. The foot-stompin’ fun heats up on Fridays and Saturdays, and admission’s only $8; a smidge more when there’s a live band. No cover charge on Band Nights, the first Thursday of every month. 200 Mishnock Road. 401-397-3505; mishnock barn.com

» HISTORIC HIGHLIGHT

BEST FREE TOUR

RHODE ISLAND STATE HOUSE, Providence (1904)

On guided weekday tours of this stunning structure, you’ll stand beneath the world’s fourth-largest self-supported marble dome and see treasures like Rhode Island’s original 1663 royal charter and Gilbert Stuart’s iconic Washington portrait. Free. 82 Smith St. 401-222-3983; sos.ri.gov/publicinfo/tours

CLASSICS

» HISTORIC HIGHLIGHT

BEST FAMILY FUN

SPRING LAKE ARCADE, Glendale (1931)

Bring all of your spare change. America’s oldest penny arcade really has penny, nickel, and dime machines—mechanical precursors to today’s electronic video games, which you can pump with quarters. You’ll keep gravitating back to the low-tech yet superclever challenges devised by the nerds of the 1900s. There’s also a lakeside beach right outside. Beach admission: $5. 52 Old Hillside Drive. 401-568-8288; springlakearcade.com

» HISTORIC HIGHLIGHT

BEST ITALIAN LIKE GRANDMA MADE

ANGELO’S CIVITA FARNESE, Providence (1924)

Fried peppers, antipasto, tripe, braciola, meatballs and gravy: There’s a section of the menu at this Federal Hill institution that’s unchanged since 1924, when Angelo Mastrodicasa opened a restaurant to sustain his hardworking fellow immigrants. Veal and peppers simmer for four hours until they’re as tender as the moments when grandson Bob Antignano hears a tearful customer say, “You brought my grandmother back to life.” Entrées from: $5.25. 141 Atwells Ave. 401-6218171; angelosri.com

» HISTORIC HIGHLIGHT

BEST VIEWS

THE CLIFF WALK, Newport (1880)

New England’s most celebrated seaside pathway, a 3.5-mile trail that threads between Gilded Age mansions and the tumbling Atlantic, received a $5.5 million upgrade in 2014. While most of the investment repaired stretches of the Cliff Walk damaged by Superstorm Sandy, funds also allowed for enhancements, including one that can make or break a romantic stroll or outing with kids: restrooms. Adopting the Parisian tradition, couples have adorned new fencing with “love locks.” Memorial Blvd. & Eustis Ave. visitrhodeisland.com

» HISTORIC HIGHLIGHT

BEST CLAM CAKES

AUNT CARRIE’S, Narragansett (1920)

It’s been 95 years since Ulysses and Carrie Cooper opened a restaurant to meet the demand for her deep-fried invention: clam cakes. Aunt Carrie’s descendants still turn out these amorphous, goldencrisp, doughnut-type balls filled with tender clam bits. They’re Rhode Island’s number-one comfort food: a meal in their own right or the tastiest part of a complete shore dinner. Half dozen: $4.15. 1240 Ocean Road. 401-783-7930; aunt carriesri.com

BEST RETAIL REVIVAL

THE ARCADE, Providence

America’s oldest indoor shopping mall has a hip new identity following a 2014 makeover. Home to 48 micro-loft apartments, boutique shops, and locavore eateries, this Greek Revival National Historic Landmark is the place for clothing fashioned by local designers and cocktails mixed with regional spirits. 65 Weybosset St. 401-454-4568; arcadeprovidence.com

OUTDOORS

BEST SURF LESSONS

PETER PAN SURFING & SUP ACADEMY, Narragansett

Peter Panagiotis, better known as the wave-riding world’s legendary Peter Pan, is as passionate about introducing people to water sports as he was in 1976 when he opened his first Narragansett surf shop. His top-notch instructors provide group and private lessons seven days a week yearround and will meet you at Narragansett Town Beach with all the gear you need. 74 Narragansett Ave. 401-575-0003; peterpansurfingacademy .vpweb.com

BEST CLAMMING

POINT JUDITH SALT POND, Galilee

Pop into Benny’s (688 Kingstown Road, Wakefield) to purchase a metal rake, a plastic pail, and your $11 tourist shellfishing license if you’re from out of state, and you’ll have everything you need to harvest your own clams for two weeks. An hour before low tide, set out into the mudflats and look for telltale holes in the muck. Then dig like mad for quahogs and soft-shell clams. Whether you steam them or make stuffies, you’ve never tasted better, fresher seafood. Galilee Escape Road

BEST KITE FLYING

BRENTON POINT STATE PARK, Newport

Along this windswept point of land at the juncture of Narragansett Bay and the Atlantic Ocean, kites lift effortlessly thanks to the same vigorous breezes that earn Newport its “Sailing Capital of the World” designation. Watch stunt and giant kites compete during the free Newport Kite Festival, July 11–12 this year. Ocean Drive. 401-849-4562; riparks.com/Locations/LocationBrentonPoint.html

BEST HIDDEN BEACH

CALF PASTURE POINT BEACH, North Kingstown

Pack a blanket and a romantic picnic, park on Marine Road inside Quonset Business Park, and bike or walk 1.4 miles northeast along Quonset Point Bike Path. The reward is a mile-long crescent that you’ll have practically to yourselves. 401-294-3331; visitrhodeisland.com

BEST SHORT HIKE

BLACK POINT, Narragansett

Don’t breeze past the fishing-area parking lot, even if you’re not equipped to surfcast for blues. An easy, half-mile, wildflower-lined path follows a boulder-strewn stretch of shore south toward Scarborough State Beach. Scrambling out onto the rocks to listen to crashing surf and spy on sea creatures in the tidepools is a pastime that predates the Civil War. Ocean Road

TOP 20 RHODE ISLAND EVENTS

MAY 8–10: WESTERLY, Misquamicut Springfest. “Pondfire” is the centerpiece, with firepits in and around the water, creating the perfect setting to enjoy BBQ and an outdoor food court, beer from crafters and commercial vendors, a Ferris wheel and other rides, fireworks, a petting zoo, a car show, pony rides, and more at Misquamicut State Beach. 401-322-1026; misquamicutfestival.org

MID-MAY to MID-JUNE: KINGSTON, Kinney Azalea Garden. Created by Lorenzo and Eliza beth Kinney, who also developed several varieties of New England–hardy blooms, this sixacre garden boasts more than 800 types of azaleas and rhododendrons, many for sale. Blossoming peaks from mid-May to midJune. 401-783-2396; ebac.us/garden_club/ kinney.htm

MAY 16: BRISTOL, Rhode Island Wool & Fiber Festival. Craftspeople demonstrate traditional and contemporary fiber arts on the grounds of the Coggeshall Farm livinghistory museum. Purchase textile supplies, equipment, and gifts, watch sheep-shearing demonstrations, and try your hand at some 18th-century textile and farm work. 401-2539062; coggeshallfarm.org

MAY 23–24: WESTERLY, “Virtu” Art Festival. More than 100 select artists will display their works for sale at beautiful Wilcox Park, with live music nearby and plenty of fine food for sale. Don’t miss the kids’ craft area, entertaining the younger set. 401-596-7761; westerly chamber.org

MAY 29–31: BLOCK ISLAND, Taste of Block Island. This three-day event highlights activities around Block Island, with gallery openings, wine and beer tastings, shopping discounts, and restaurant specials. 401-466-2474; block islandchamber.com

MAY 30–31: NORTH KINGSTON, National Guard Open House & Air Show. Visit Quonset State Airport for exceptional aerial and static displays, along with activities for all ages. Don’t miss the high-flying maneuvers of the U.S. Navy’s Blue Angels. riairshow.org

JUNE 12–14: WARWICK, Gaspée Days Parade & Weekend. Commemorating the 1772 burning of the British revenue schooner HMS Gaspée by American colonists, the Gaspée Days event features one of the most exciting and patriotic parades in the country, complete with colonial fife-and-drum corps, Civil War–era reenactor units, modern-day drumand-bugle corps, and more. 401-781-1772; gaspee.com

JUNE 13: RICHMOND, Rhode Island Scottish Highland Festival. Scotland comes to the Ocean State at Washington County Fairgrounds. Enjoy traditional music and dance, Scottish food, sheepdog demonstrations, Highland sports competitions, children’s activities, and more. riscot.org

JUNE 19–21: NEWPORT, Flower Show. Visit historic Rosecliff Mansion, birthplace of the ‘American Beauty’ rose, and discover the mysteries of Asian lands as this year’s exotic theme brings gardens, treasures, traditions, and native plants together to celebrate the simple, stunning beauty of the Far East. 401847-1000; newportflowershow.org

JUNE 20: NORTH KINGSTON, Strawberry Festival at Smith’s Castle. One of the oldest houses in the state, Smith’s Castle pays homage to the wild strawberry, a favorite of both the area’s early colonists and the native Narragansetts. Enjoy the family fun, but save plenty of room for strawberry shortcake! 401-294-3521; smithscastle.org

JUNE 20: WESTERLY, Chorus of Westerly Summer Pops Concert. In this much-anticipated annual concert, now in its 35th year, the Chorus of Westerly teams with the Boston Festival Orchestra under the stars in lovely Wilcox Park. Fireworks, the thunder of cannons, and the pealing bells of Christ Church will all play a role in the breathtaking finale. 401-5968663; chorusofwesterly.org

JUNE 27–28, AUG. 29–30: NEWPORT, 2nd Annual Newport Art Festival. This two-weekend community festival features more than 100 contemporary American artisans, local food, entertainment, music, children’s crafts, and a community art project. festivalfete.com

JUNE 27–28: NARRANGANSETT, Narragansett Art Festival. Veterans Park, overlooking Narragansett Beach, provides the setting for this gathering of more than 100 fine-art exhibitors, now in its 33rd year. wakefieldrotary.com

JULY 11–12: WICKFORD, 53rd Wickford Art Festival. The tree-lined streets of the downtown are filled with 200 fine artisans exhibiting their work. Shop for one-of-a-kind items, and take a chance on a raffle. 401-294-6840; wickfordart.org

JUNE 13: PROVIDENCE, 36th Annual Festival of Historic Houses. Some of Providence’s most interesting homes, gardens, and converted industrial mill spaces open themselves to visitors, highlighting Providence’s post-industrial heritage. Hear stories of each property’s origins and inhabitants, while viewing firsthand the modern-day living spaces in the capital city’s prized historic properties. 401-831-7440; ppsri.org

JULY 11–19: NEWPORT, Campbell’s Hall of Fame Tennis Championships. Take in a game at the only pro event in North America played on grass courts. On Saturday the 18th, the Hall of Fame will induct its 2015 class. 401-8493990; tennisfame.com

JULY 17–19: KINGSTON, 37th South County Hot Air Balloon Fest. An annual gathering of community, music, and more than a dozen hot-air balloons at the University of Rhode Island Athletic Fields, with kids’ events, food, and fun for all ages. southcountyballoonfest.com

JULY 24–26: MIDDLETOWN, Newport Antiques Show. St. George’s School hosts a premier gathering of more than 40 of the country’s top dealers. Attend an expert-led lecture, and search for treasures among the offerings: paintings, furniture, folk art, jewelry, and much more. 401-846-2669; newport antiquesshow.com

AUG. 12–16: RICHMOND, 49th Washington County Fair. The state’s largest agricultural fair presents daily concerts, a giant midway, horse and tractor pulls, arts and crafts, a farm museum, delicious foods, and much more, all at the county fairgrounds. 401-539-7042; washingtoncountyfair-ri.com

AUG. 20–23: NEWPORT, A Weekend of Coaching. Authentic 19th-century horse-drawn coaches return to Newport for this triennial event. Colorful and historic vehicles drive the streets of Newport and the grounds of a selection of Newport’s grand historic homes, celebrating and preserving a centuries-old tradition. 401847-1000; newportmansions.org

Call ahead to confirm dates, schedules, and admission prices. To submit an event for possible publication, go to: YankeeMagazine.com/submitevent

FOR HUNDREDS OF FAIRS, FESTIVALS, EXHIBITS, SHOWS, AND OTHER FUN ACTIVITIES, GO TO: YANKEEMAGAZINE.COM/EVENTS

QUEBEC

ATTRACTIONS

BEST COUNTRY DRIVE CHEMIN DU ROY, Montreal–Quebec City

Roadside fruit stands and the steeples of historic churches glow in the afternoon light as you drive along the banks of the St. Lawrence River on the Chemin du Roy, Canada’s first carriage road. Dating all the way back to 1737, the “King’s Highway” stretches 160 miles between Montreal and Quebec City. Make what was once a religious pilgrimage a cultural one, stopping along the way in quiet villages to stroll the farmers’ markets before tucking in at a country B&B. 800-5677603; lecheminduroy.com

BEST QUEBEC CITY VIEW

QUEBEC CITY–LÉVIS FERRY, Quebec City

It’s almost too good to be true: The spectacular view from the ferry and the breeze off the St. Lawrence as you cross the river cost only $7 for a two-way ride. Treat yourself to an ice cream in Lévis, the town on the other side of the river, and walk among the shops until you’re ready to head back across. If you board at twilight, you can stand at the rail of the ferry and watch the famed Château Frontenac light up just as the sun’s evening glow hits the castle. 10 rue des Traversiers. 877-787-7483; traversiers.com

BEST URBAN AFTERNOON

RUE SAINT-DENIS, Montreal

Lively cafés, boutique shops, and trending fashions combine on this prominent boulevard near the center of Montreal. This is your opportunity to bring home some of Quebec’s best fashion styles, jewelry, home décor, and self-care products. After you’ve shopped to your heart’s desire, slip into a chair at a bistro or coffeehouse and listen to the happy chatter of University of Quebec students as they get out of class at the end of the street and head out for an evening with friends. 514-563-0697; ruesaintdenis.ca

BEST TRULY QUÉBÉCOIS ADVENTURE

VIEUX QUÉBEC, Quebec City

Your heroic storybook fantasy of scaling the city walls has never been more possible than in 400-year-old “Vieux Québec,” founded by Samuel de Champlain in 1608, and the only remaining fortified city north of Mexico. Ramble along the three miles of ramparts to see what was once Upper Town, a cluster of convents, churches, historic homes, and stately buildings, including the Citadel and the Château Frontenac, that graced the old religious and administrative center. 12 rue Sainte-Anne. 877-783-1608; quebec region.com

BEST ART & ARCHITECTURE

MUSÉE NATIONAL DES BEAUX-ARTS DU QUÉBEC, Quebec City

History buffs and art critics alike will revel at Canada’s National Museum of Fine Arts, a collection of more than 37,000 works. Unique exhibits on Inuit art and contemporary Canadian painters fill the halls, but the buildings of the museum itself have their own, distinct stories as well; one of them, in fact, is the old Quebec City prison. With a new addition on the way, this museum continually invites visitors to explore Canada from the artist’s perspective. National Battlefields Park (Plains of Abraham). 418-643-2150; mnbaq.org

BEST LAKESIDE SCENERY

LAKE MEMPHREMAGOG AT ABBAYE

SAINT-BENOÏT, Saint-Benoït-du-Lac

The view from the top of the abbey isn’t easily forgotten. In fall, the surrounding hills shine with brilliant foliage, reflected in Lake Memphremagog, a 39-square-mile glacial basin that shares a border with Vermont. But the scenery isn’t the only reason to visit the abbey; this century-old building still houses a Benedictine community, whose renowned Gregorian chants, along with the monks’ cheese and cider products, satisfy both stomach and soul. 1 Main St. 819-843-4080; st-benoit-du-lac.com

LODGING

BEST HISTORIC RESORT

MANOIR HOVEY, North Hatley

Grand yet inviting, historic yet modern, five-star Hovey Manor celebrates its historic beginnings while simultaneously offering top-notch service and contemporary comforts. Inspired by George Washington’s home in Virginia, Mount Vernon,

this grand mansion spreads along the peaceful waters of Lake Massawippi. Visitors will thrill to the award-winning cuisine, spa, heated pool, clay tennis courts, and panoramic views. 575 rue Hovey. 800-661-2421; manoirhovey.com

BEST MONTREAL LUXURY

HÔTEL GAULT, Montreal

Hip, sophisticated, and fashionably rebellious, the Gault’s interior contrasts with its Old World stone façade. Even though its location offers easy access to cultural hotspots in “Vieux Montréal,” guests will be hesitant to leave their luxurious accommodations. Built out of what used to be a cotton warehouse in the 1800s, the Gault takes that industrial framework and makes it groovy, offering airy rooms with private terraces, heated floor tiles, and funky, futuristic décor. 449 rue Sainte-Hélène. 514904-1616; hotelgault.com

OUTDOORS

BEST WINE-INSPIRED BIKE RIDE

LA ROUTE DES VINS, Eastern Townships

There’s only one thing that can make the experience of biking the picturesque vineyards here better, and that’s wine tastings along the way. Quebec’s 87-mile Wine Route links 21 vintners to create a rambling exploration of the region’s most delicious beverage. Not only will cyclers encounter wines at great prices, but they’ll muse on delicate blends of pinot noir, ice wine, and rosé with the very families who have been producing them for decades. 888-811-4928; laroutedesvins.ca

BEST TRULY QUÉBÉCOIS ADVENTURE: VIEUX QUÉBEC, Quebec City (listing below, bottom left)

NEW YORK

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ATTRACTIONS

BEST SPORTS SHRINE

BASEBALL HALL OF FAME, Cooperstown

With multimedia installations and artifacts galore, the Baseball Hall pays moving tribute to celebrated and unsung heroes of a game deeply entwined with American culture. Visit Cooperstown July 25–26 this year and instead of seeing their plaques on a wall, you can wave to more than 50 Hall of Famers during Saturday’s Parade of Legends. Pedro Martinez, Randy Johnson, John Smoltz, and Craig Biggio join their ranks during Sunday’s induction ceremony, open free to fans at Clark Sports Center. 25 Main St. 607-547-7200; baseballhall.org

BEST NATURAL WONDER

HOWE CAVERNS, Howes Cave

Lester Howe’s cows tipped him off that something cool was hiding beneath his farm in 1842, and his amazement is now duplicated 363 days a year. Descend 16 stories to walk and boat through a wonderworld of glistening, evocative rock formations. If you haven’t visited this six-millionyear-old attraction recently, much is new: family flashlight and other themed tours, gemstone mining, an outdoor adventure park, even caveaged cheese. 255 Discovery Drive. 518-296-8900; howecaverns.com

BEST BREWERY TOUR

BREWERY OMMEGANG, Cooperstown

Ommegang’s Belgian-style ales have exploded in popularity, but this farmstead brewery in North America’s former hops-growing epicenter retains its mystique. The addition of Café Ommegang solidifies its status as a place of pilgrimage. After a free tour and sampling of six beers for $5, including a souvenir glass, pair chicken and waffles or moules et frites with brewmaster Phil Leinhart’s latest limited-edition releases. 656 County Highway 33. 607-544-1800; ommegang.com

LODGING

BEST FAMILY RESORT WHITEFACE LODGE, Lake Placid

It’s been 35 years since medals were handed out in Lake Placid, but Whiteface Lodge deserves gold. Built in 2005 by Olympic luger Joe Barile, this 85-suite resort, crafted of hand-milled timber and fieldstone, reimagines backwoods opulence for a new era. Every conceivable amenity makes a family vacation fun and weatherproof. Rates: from $277. 7 Whiteface Inn Lane. 518-523-0500; thewhitefacelodge.com

BEST NOSTALGIC STAY

GREAT CAMP SAGAMORE NATIONAL HISTORIC LANDMARK, Raquette Lake

The Adirondack “camps” built for America’s wealthiest vacationers at the turn of the 20th century were architectural masterpieces of wood and stone, their rustic appearance merely an illusion. Stay at the Vanderbilts’ 27-building wilderness retreat, and time slows to the pace of a paddled canoe. With no TVs, phones, or cell service, guests spend languid days porch sitting, exploring, waiting for the dinner bell, and watching the stars burn holes in a pitch-dark sky. Rates: $175 per person, including meals. Sagamore Road. 315354-5311; greatcampsagamore.org

DINING

BEST ALL-DAY BREAKFAST NOON MARK DINER, Keene Valley

The locals’ go-to place for pies is equal parts bakery and diner—so when you have a sudden hankering for breakfast after a vigorous day outdoors, you’ll find fruit-loaded pancakes, freshly baked cinnamon buns, and eggs with homemade toast at this roadside stop. Jars of the strawberry jam are the Adirondacks’ most addictive souvenir. Breakfast: from $1.85. 1770 Route 73. 518576-4499; noonmarkdiner.com

BEST SOFT-SERVE

DONNELLY’S ICE CREAM, Saranac Lake

Peter Donnelly remembers sampling the second or third ice cream that swirled from the machine that his dad and aunts acquired in 1953. Today, fans drive from as far away as Burlington and Montreal to taste the flavor of the day. Made with an original recipe that’s been tweaked over the years, the secret is the still-cranking 1953 equipment: “What you’re tasting is ice cream instead of air.” 1564 State Route 86.

OUTDOORS

BEST CRUISES

LAKE GEORGE STEAMBOAT COMPANY, Lake George

Collecting iconic New York experiences? Steamboating on crystal-clear Lake George is a must. Launched in 1817 to provide commercial service, Lake George Steamboat Company still operates three graceful ships. The sternwheeler Minne-Ha-Ha is the lake’s only remaining steam-propelled vessel, and tunes tooted out on her calliope enchant passengers. The 107-yearold Mohican and replica Lac Du Saint Sacrement also provide themed, sightseeing, and dining cruises. 57 Beach Road. 518-668-5777; lakegeorge steamboat.com

adirondack vacation rentals with two bedrooms and two full bathrooms.

Could You Live Here? | WINTER HARBOR, MAINE

TOP : Lobster boats rest up in the working harbor.

BOTTOM , FROM LEFT : A cyclist skims the 12-mile loop from town around the contours of the Schoodic Peninsula, the “other” Acadia; a scenic ferry ride from Winter Harbor whisks you to bustling Bar Harbor in 30 minutes.

WINTER HARBOR

On the edge of the quiet side of Acadia National Park sits a fishing village with perhaps the best ocean-view housing deals in New England.

BY ANNIE GRAVES

inter Harbor sits snugly on the edge of Maine’s other Acadia National Park—the lesser-known, wild and quiet spread on the mainland’s Schoodic Peninsula. A mere 30 minutes by ferry from Mount Desert Island, where the core of the park is concentrated, and the bustling town of Bar Harbor, the houses in this small fishing village of 516 people are faded just about right. Lobster traps are stacked in tidy yards, and sharp blue tidal waters course in and out of the in-town boat launch. The air is crisp enough to bite.

It’s a working fishing village, as you’ll quickly discover if you walk a short distance down Harbor Road. In the early morning, a small armada of lobster boats scatter like water bugs, heading out to drop their traps. As dusk and the mist settle in, so do the boats, huddling together for the night.

Winter Harbor feels like shelter from the storm. Settled in the late

1700s—and so named because the harbor didn’t freeze—the town today is laid-back, friendly. Pretty, the way the forgotten villages of Down East Maine should be, and with a real 5&10. Artist-friendly, too, with studios and shops featuring the painting, pottery, and glasswork of local folks. Maybe it’s the pointed firs, or the tangy salt, seasoning the air. But something about this rugged, enchanting peninsula makes you want to draw the sharp Maine air deeper into your lungs, filling them like sailcloth. Is it really possible, or are we dreaming? A coastal fishing village beside a stunning national park— with houses under $100,000?

The Setting

Winter Harbor backs onto the only chunk of Acadia National Park that’s on the mainland. And because it’s

separate from the rest of Acadia, this 2,366-acre swath of tucked-away beauty feels like a secret. Every table has a sea view at the Frazier Point picnic area, and the cycling (or driving, for that matter) along a six-mile, oneway loop is unparalleled, with water edging the road to Schoodic Point, a rocky plain towering over sea and islands. Winter Harbor itself is water-splashed: boat launch, Bar Harbor ferry landing, and harbor. Beyond the town center, the “cottages” of Grindstone Neck were Philadelphia’s answer to Newport, Rhode Island, with a golf course, yacht club, and distractingly pretty views. How pretty? Cathy Carruthers is town manager (also treasurer, tax collector, town clerk, road commissioner, notary public, and author of the annual report), plus her mom was born here, so the roots go deep. “My uncle drives around Schoodic three times a day because he

Expansive water views around Schoodic Point inspire plein-air artists.

WINTER HARBOR

wants to,” she says. “And he tells me, ‘Cathy, you should, too.’”

Social Scene

The friendliness factor can’t be overstated. A quick stop at the lovely stone Winter Harbor Public Library (built as a Unitarian chapel in 1888) uncorks a conversation with Bob Buckner, a part-time resident who extols Schoodic Arts for All—a rich community program of affordable concerts, theatre, and workshops, bolstered by 110 volunteers.

If, however, you aspire to be a hermit, Winter Harbor might not be the best fit. Wendilee Heath O’Brien lives and works at Whopaints Studio & Gallery, and amid the riot of paintings dangling from her walls, she states, “The people who like being here are the ones who like stepping out the door and knowing everyone, and where there’s no traffic light for 30 miles. The fishermen stop us every morning to ask, ‘Where’s the yellow dog?’ if we don’t bring her on our walk. I love that. You’ve got to

like witnessing each other’s life in a very caring way.”

Eating Out

There’s a tidy nest of four or five eateries in and around town, but on a

sea-scrubbed, blue-sky day, it’s hard to imagine anything tastier than fresh lobster at the Winter Harbor Lobster Co-op, down Pendleton Road. “They’ll cook it for you,” Cathy says. “Take it out to Frazier Point—it’s the perfect place to eat it.” All you do is bring a bib. (In August, crustaceans have their own event: the 51st Annual Lobster Festival, with boat races, a crafts fair, and a parade.)

Shopping

At the Winter Harbor 5&10, Peter Drinkwater sells everything from

DownEast & Acadia True Maine

“aspirin to zippers,” plus he’s the local real-estate agent, chairman of the planning board, and “will tell you more than you ask,” Buckner says. A handful of pretty shops around town sell sea-glass jewelry and antiques, and the local IGA, across from the boat launch, sells all the fixin’s for a summer’s night.

Real Estate

“We worked our way up the coast until we could afford waterfront,” says Bob Buckner from his rocky front yard, with Mount Desert’s soaring Cadillac Mountain ahead. “The best part about living here … People don’t even know about this part of Schoodic. I didn’t want to be somewhere where it would take me all summer just to back out

(continued on p. 186)

There’s only one part of Maine that is home to Acadia National Park, Roosevelt Campobello International Park, an island mountain that looks over the sea, more than 25 lighthouses, a coastline dotted with charming towns and villages, an outdoor recreation playground filled with sweet smelling fir and spruce and what seems like a million ponds, lakes and streams. Historic sites, state parks, shops, galleries, museums and kid’s attractions await in what many say is the most scenic and authentic part of Maine.

Learn more, including upcoming events by calling 1-877-458-3278 or by visiting DownEastAcadia.com

“The best part about living here … People don’t even know about this part of Schoodic.”

Portland

Bangor

DownEast & Acadia Region

(continued from p. 183)

of the driveway.” While you can certainly shell out major clams for waterfront, “Winter Harbor is one of the more affordable towns because of the Navy base closing,” Peter Drink water explains. (Operating on Schoodic Point since 1935, the NSGA Winter Harbor base closed in 2002, halving the town’s population and leaving a surplus of properties.) Right now, he’s offering a two-bedroom condo in the Misty Harbor compound for $91,500, with 32 additional properties available.

“I sold a piece of land while you were here,” he confesses. “An acre, within 200 yards of the water, with a right of way to Frenchman Bay, for $22,500.”

Resident Perk

When you’re ready for a change of tempo, hop the seasonal ferry from Marina Pier for a seven-mile, 30-minute cruise to

Bar Harbor, with its upbeat, Key West–meets–Nantucket vibe. Why wrestle with Route 1 traffic? If you live here, the fare is half-price.

General Perk

In season, the Island Explorer Bus is a free hourly service taking passengers from Winter Harbor to Schoodic Point, Birch Harbor, and Prospect Harbor.

Getting Your Bearings

The Winter Harbor Inn hosts people and their dogs, and will groom your pet while you stroll. 298 Main St. 207562-7837; winterharborinn.com

A Sidenote

Acadia National Park was named “America’s Favorite Place” in a Good Morning America viewer poll in July 2014, where it was described as “one of the crown jewels of Maine, with nearly 50,000 acres of jaw-dropping beauty.” But you can bet that most voters were thinking of Mount Desert Island, with its towering Cadillac Mountain —not our hidden pearl.

More photos at: YankeeMagazine.com/ WinterHarbor

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP : Shady picnic nooks are tucked in along the Schoodic Peninsula; paintings rise floor to ceiling in Wendilee Heath O’Brien’s studio in the center of town; who couldn’t live here?

The elm tree in front of the three-story Gregg–Montgomery House is about 200 years old.

INSET : The surrounding garden, with benches and stone walls, is on 3 acres, with an additional 12 in conservation.

One Way to Value a Historic Home

During the 1990s, a New Jersey couple walked through more than 50 New England homes before deciding to purchase this one in beautiful Francestown, New Hampshire. Time goes on, though, and now they’re looking at retirement communities—but not before writing us one of the funniest ‘House for Sale’ letters we’ve seen in a long time …

eople often ask us how we go about choosing properties to feature in “House for Sale.” Well, it varies. Sometimes simply a letter convinces us. The following, received recently, is a case in point …

Dear Yankee,

Yankee likes to mosey around and see, out of editorial curiosity, what you can turn up when you go house hunting. We have no stake in the sale whatsoever and would decline it if offered.

We’re offering for sale a 200-year-old tree that’s very valuable because it’s an American elm that the Elm Research Institute calls “historic.” With the elm we’ll include several 150-year-old locusts as well as two acres of gardens (part of a total of 15 acres), called by various garden writers as “extraordinary,” surrounding a beautiful, stream-fed, quarter-acre pond. Oh yes, also a 1779 three-story center-chimney Georgian Colonial, known as the Gregg–Montgomery House, recently accepted for inclusion on the New Hampshire Register of Historic Places, as well as a two-car garage/barn and a garden cottage with pergola and greenhouse. The price for the elm and the locust trees is $500,000. (Try buying and planting these!) The pond, barn, garden house, and surrounding gardens are priced at $150,000. The 1779 house is free.

(signed) Leonard and Meredith Allen

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We couldn’t resist. A week after receiving the letter, we were relaxing on lovely wicker furniture with Leonard and Meredith in their large garden room, with cathedral ceilings and three walls of windows (adorned with oodles of plants) overlooking the pond, the bluestone terrace, and those extensive flowers/shrubs/rockwall gardens that will be coming to life this month of May. Also with us (that is, on Meredith’s and Leonard’s laps) were Josie, an adorable poodletype dog; Felicity, a Siamese cat, who later, on a leash, accompanied us on our walk around the property; and another cat, a big furry “Russian” one named Niko. We felt so at home with them all. As for getting to know Mere dith and Leonard, well, we learned that they have two grown daughters living elsewhere and four grandchildren (who, incidentally, love to swim in the pond when they visit).

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Leonard, before retiring, was, as he put it, in “manufacturing” all his life. They’re both passionate about old houses, having owned no fewer than four over the years; they’re both obviously also passionate about gardening; and, finally, they recently turned over to their daughters their beloved “fishing shack,” as they referred to it, out on Maine’s famous and wonderfully remote Monhegan Island.

Eventually, accompanied by the Allens, with Josie and Felicity (Niko had other things to do—like napping), we toured all of the impeccably restored rooms on the three floors as well as those gorgeous gardens and outbuildings next to the pond. In short, the entire place is impressive. Maybe “elegant” would be a better descriptive word. In all, there are four bedrooms (including the lovely corner master bedroom suite and bath on the second floor), four bathrooms, a new

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Owners Meredith and Leonard Allen, with Josie. Passionate about old houses, the couple has owned four over the years. They spent four years searching for their current Georgian Colonial, now included on the NH Register of Historic Places.

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kitchen, and five working fireplaces. We particularly loved the one in what they call the “keeping room.” It’s six feet four inches wide, with a bake oven, a raised-panel chimney piece, and five of the most charming little warming cupboards.

Of course, after spending three years searching for and finally finding this property and then working so hard in the ensuing time restoring and enhancing the place, the Allens hate the thought of leaving. But nothing remains the same forever. So a couple

of years ago they began looking at retirement communities around New England.

Believe it or not, they inspected no fewer than 40 of them before settling on a certain one in nearby Peterborough, New Hampshire, the very one, in fact, we recently moved into ourselves! (We love the idea of continuing our new “House for Sale” friendship with them.) But, of course, they must first sell that historic elm tree. The locust trees, gardens, and pond, too. The house? Still free.

Contact Country Brokers Real Estate, P.O. Box 10, Francestown, NH 03043. 603-547-6333; office@countrybrokers .com; countrybrokers.com

Read classic HFS stories from our archives at: YankeeMagazine.com/ house-for-sale

We toured the impeccably restored rooms on the three floors, and those gorgeous gardens and outbuildings next to the pond. The entire place is impressive.

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YANKEE classifieds

BRASS NAMEPLATES

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ORMOND BEACH, FL. Gated Community. 2,552 Sq Ft, Upscale Kitchen. 3BR, 3 BATHS + 2nd Floor Loft. Details: 386672-3814 or email: dawnj@earthlink.net

Fitzwilliam, NH. 1820 Restored 7 BR7 BA Lodge/B&B $399,000. Visit our website: www.hannahdavishouse.com. Sandy Cormier Greenwald Realty 603-721-1949

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ROQUE BLUFFS, ME

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SEBASTIAN, FL

Beautiful 55+ community. Voted 2012 “Best of Sebastian.” Manufactured Home Community. New homes starting at $84,900. 4 mi to the ocean.

REAL ESTATE cont.

EAST SANDWICH, MA

7-acre Cape Cod property. Farming, nature, private setting. Hour’s drive from Boston. Home needs renovation.

$599,000 Kinlin Grover Real Estate Broker: Robert Norton 508-367-2023

CONVERTED BARN TO HOME Antique Hewn Beams throughout. 4,000 Sq. Ft. 5 BDR, 3BA. On 2.9 acre. Designated Scenic Road in beautiful N.H. Lakes Region. $420,000 Details/Photos Call:1-603-279-4583 Email: katetkach@aol.com

EXETER, NH, $595,000 21+/- acres, beautiful prime property. Open rolling fields and conservation land. Equestrian/estate setting. Vibrant equestrian community. Minutes to downtown Exeter, 50 minutes to downtown Boston. 617-721-9002 or e-mail: britt@post.harvard.edu

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Established 1958

Land of Lakes

This distinctive corner of Down East Maine reminded visitors of Switzerland’s dramatic vistas.

n the craggy northeastern shore of serenely beautiful Phillips Lake, home to plentiful populations of bass, trout, and landlocked salmon, and sometimes a family or two of loons, sits the poetically named village of Lucerne-in-Maine, a resort community within the town of Dedham. At its heart is the landmark Lucerne Inn, which last year celebrated its 200th birthday as a lodging place for visitors and vacationers. Constructed for John Phillips on a parcel of land granted him in thanks for his service in the Revolutionary War, this early Federal home, originally called “Lake House,” was situated midway along the old stagecoach route connecting Bangor and Ellsworth; in 1814 it began hosting weary travelers, providing food,

spirits, and overnight accommodations. Today the inn is on the National Register of Historic Places, the old stage road is U.S. 1A, and a two-centuries-old tradition endures: long summer days on the many lakes tucked into the mountains and foothills that blanket the landscape here, a place of rest and relaxation for generations past and generations to come.

—Eileen Terrill

Historic New England is now the keeper of a collection of more than 2,000 images of New England life, mostly glass-plate negatives, amassed by Yankee founder Robb Sagendorph in the 1960s. The collection dates from the 1890s to the 1930s; many of the images are attributed to photojournalist Alton H. Blackington (1893–1963) and landscape photographer Martha Hale Harvey (1862–1949). In 1994, Yankee donated the archive to Historic New England. See more shots from the collection at: historicnewengland.org

Phillips Lake, Lucerne-in-Maine, c. 1923–28