Yankee Magazine May/June 2019 by Yankee Magazine

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May/June 2019

CONTENTS 64

102

At Vermont’s Quimby Country, one of the Northeast’s original family resorts, new owners help families unplug with a summer destination that’s for, but not of, the 21st century. By Ian Aldrich

96 /// Välkommen to Midsommar

Swedish culture comes alive in Maine’s North Country. By Katy Kelleher

102 /// The Cog Turns 150

A climb to the summit of Mount Washington aboard this steam-powered train is unlike any other ride in America. By Leath Tonino ON THE COVER

Photograph by Mark Fleming; styling by Korey Seney. Special thanks to the Cape Cod Beach Chair Company, Dr. Gravity’s Kite Shop, and the Almquist family.

2019

M AG

TRAVEL

Need some great summer travel ideas? You’ll find nearly 200 of them in our annual guide to dining, lodging, and attractions that are well worth the drive. MASSACHUSETTS ......................................... 110 NEW HAMPSHIRE .......................................... 126 MAINE .......................................................... 142 VERMONT ..................................................... 152 CONNECTICUT .............................................. 158 RHODE ISLAND ............................................. 161

ONLINE EXTRA! See our editors’ picks for the top 10 summer events in each state at newengland.com/summerevents2019.

Yankee (ISSN 0044-0191). Bimonthly, Vol. 83 No. 3. Publication Office, Dublin, NH 03444-0520. Periodicals postage paid at Dublin, NH, and additional offices. Copyright 2019 by Yankee Publishing Incorporated; all rights reserved. Postmaster: Send address changes to Yankee, P.O. Box 422446, Palm Coast, FL 32142-2446.

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M A R K F L E M I N G ( B E AC H , T R A I N ) ; G R E TA R Y B US (G I R L)

92 /// Disconnect to Connect

From whale watching to timeless villages to miles of soft, sandy beaches, this fabled Massachusetts peninsula and its island neighbors have it all.

S’ CH

NEW ENGLAND N

64 /// 63 Reasons Why We Love the Cape and Islands

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More Contents

departments 10 DEAR YANKEE, CONTRIBUTORS & POETRY BY D.A.W.

INSIDE YANKEE Celebrating the twin gifts of a New England vacation: the bliss of escape and the comfort of continuity.

14 FIRST PERSON People say the heart is a symbol of love. But for this do-it-yourself Maine farm family, it’s a pair of hands. By Erin Rhoda

20 FIRST LIGHT With every foal born here, the University of Vermont’s Morgan Horse Farm carries on the legacy of a not-sopromising colt that grew into the horse that changed America. By Julia Shipley

32 40

28 KNOWLEDGE & WISDOM A recipe that only weedeaters could love, surfacing some trivia on the mighty humpback whale, and wise words from Maine author Linda Greenlaw on charting your life’s course.

32 /// Sea World Step inside the Maine cottage that reflects the inspiration behind the designs of Sara Fitz. By Annie Graves 40 /// Open Studio

On Portland’s working waterfront, Sea Bags makes waves with totes crafted from recycled sails. By Annie Graves

188 TIMELESS NEW ENGLAND Meredith, New Hampshire, lays claim to a favorite fictional son.

food

48 /// Tour de Fork Take to the streets on these culinary walking tours, and discover the heart of New England’s food scene. By Sandra Miller 60 /// Mixing It Up with Tamworth Distilling A behind-the-scenes look at a New Hampshire highlight from season three of Weekends with Yankee. By Amy Traverso 4 |

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1121 Main St., P.O. Box 520, Dublin, NH 03444. 603-563-8111; editor@yankeemagazine.com EDITORIAL EDITOR ART DIREC TOR DEPUT Y EDITOR MANAGING EDITOR SENIOR EDITOR/FOOD HOME & GARDEN EDITOR ASSOCIATE EDITOR PHOTO EDITOR DIGITAL EDITOR DIGITAL ASSISTANT EDITOR CONTRIBUTING EDITORS

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

Mel Allen Lori Pedrick Ian Aldrich Jenn Johnson Amy Traverso Annie Graves Joe Bills Heather Marcus Aimee Tucker Cathryn McCann Kim Knox Beckius, Ben Hewitt, Rowan Jacobsen, Krissy O’Shea, Julia Shipley Adam DeTour, Megan Haley, Corey Hendrickson, Little Outdoor Giants, Michael Piazza, Greta Rybus

PRODUCTION PRODUC TION DIREC TORS SENIOR PRODUC TION ARTISTS

David Ziarnowski, Susan Gross Jennifer Freeman, Susan Shute

DIGITAL VP NEW MEDIA & PRODUC TION DIGITAL MARKETING MANAGER

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PUBLISHER

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ADVERTISING: PRINT/DIGITAL/TELEVISION VICE PRESIDENT/SALES

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SALES IN NEW ENGLAND TR AVEL, NORTH TR AVEL, SOUTH TR AVEL, WEST DIREC T RESPONSE

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JOURNEY

NO. 34

MIDCOAST REG ION

I left the simple life for the big city. And then I came back. To my senses. To everything I missed. This place on the island with no shopping centers or stoplights. Where we live off the land. Grow our own food. And open our doors to visitors who yearn for so many of the same things. Grace and charm. Time and space. A simpler path. And something to share with the next generation. This is North Haven. I’ve seen other places. But this is me.

Connect with New England | B E Y O N D T H E P R I N T E D P A G E

NewEngland.com

Exploring the Flume Gorge, one of the natural wonders of the White Mountains.

Travel: Guide to Summer in the White Mountains

Recipes: New England Cookout Classics

Events: Summer Celebrations You Won’t Want to Miss

Food: Best Lobster Rolls

Plan your perfect vacation with our roundup of great places to eat, stay, and play.

Church supper slaw, baked beans, and wild blueberry pie for your backyard feast.

New England’s best craft fairs, concerts, fireworks, food festivals, and more.

We munched our way across the region to discover who’s serving the tastiest crustacean sandwiches.

NEWENGL AND.COM/ WHITES -SUMMER

NEWENGL AND.COM/ C O O K O U T- D I S H E S

NEWENGL AND.COM/ SUMMER-E VENTS

NEWENGL AND.COM/ B E S T- R O L L S

ISLAND ESCAPES After checking out our travel feature “63 Reasons Why We Love the Cape and Islands” [p. 64], come follow along as our TV show, Weekends with Yankee, visits Nantucket in season three. We take a cruise on a tall ship, meet best-selling novelist Elin Hilderbrand for an island insider’s tour, and get a tutorial in a signature New England style from the author of The Official Preppy Handbook. For episode details and station listings, go to: COHOST AMY TRAVERSO

WeekendsWithYankee.com

COHOST RICHARD WIESE

Social Media: Facebook.com/yankeemagazine, Instagram.com/yankeemagazine, Twitter.com/yankeemagazine, Pinterest.com/yankeemagazine

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Dear Yankee | O U R R E A D E R S R E S P O N D Rhody to Rumble JOH N S. DY KE S “Recently I’ve been spending more time on the Cape, so doing the research for this felt like a nice jump on summer fun,” says Dykes, who provided the playful illustrations for “63 Reasons Why We Love the Cape and Islands” [p. 64]. A New York native who now lives and works in Boston, Dykes has contributed to such publications as The Wall Street Journal, Entertainment Weekly, and The Atlantic. K AT Y K E L L E H E R The ways in which people celebrate nature have long fascinated Kelleher, who immersed herself in the summer solstice festival in New Sweden, Maine, for “Välkommen to Midsommar” [p. 96]. The Aroostook County landscape also wasn’t lost on Kelleher, who lives outside Portland: “There’s something magical about the lupines and the pines, how fields turn purple to match the mountains around you.” ALEX GAGNE For proof that the tradition of community bands is alive and well on Cape Cod, look no further than Gagne’s diverse images of Chatham Band members [p. 81 in “63 Reasons Why We Love the Cape and Islands”]. “I felt lucky to take portraits of musicians who ranged from age 20 all the way to age 90!” says Gagne, a commercial and editorial photographer based in Franklin, Massachusetts. ERIN RHODA The 2016 Maine Journalist of the Year and editor of the Bangor Daily News team for in-depth projects, Rhoda drew on her own family history for the essay “A Father’s Gift” [p. 14]. “As a journalist I rarely write about my personal experiences, but this story—about my father’s expressions of love—was too moving to keep to myself,” she says. “Everyone deserves a parent like him.” B E N O I T D E N I Z E T- L E W I S An associate professor at Emerson College and longtime contributor to The New York Times Magazine, Denizet-Lewis says his Yankee assignment [p. 77 in “63 Reasons Why We Love the Cape and Islands”] couldn’t have suited him better. “Provincetown and people-watching are two of my favorite things in the world, so to combine them in one piece is a kind of small journalistic miracle.” McCANDLISS + CAMPBELL This award-winning art direction team—aka Trevett McCandliss and Nancy Campbell—show their versatility in this issue: For “Välkommen to Midsommar” [p. 96], the duo took inspiration in part from designs used in Viking stone and wood carvings, while “Disconnect to Connect” [p. 92] saw them calling on Scrabble tiles and Polaroid photos to evoke the nostalgic feel of a family summer camp. 10 |

I can’t tell you how dismayed I was to learn that someone had decided that there were only two towns in New England—Portland and Boston— even worthy of “New England’s dining crown” [“Food Town Showdown,” March/April]. I have dined hundreds of times in Burlington, hundreds of times in Providence, 50-plus times in Boston, and dozens of times in Portland. And in my humble opinion, your comparing Burlington to Providence is absurd: Burlington has 42,000 people, Providence 180,000. In keeping with the same ratio of population, Providence has four good restaurants to Burlington’s one. (And three to Portland’s one.) For this current Rhode Islander and former Vermonter, when it comes to cuisine, Providence is a very close second to Boston, not a candidate in a runoff with a city (albeit a great one) in the middle of nowhere with 23 percent of Providence’s population. Mark Arnold Riverside, Rhode Island

Worth Checking Out Glenn Stout’s story about the Boston Public Library [“The Mother Library,” March/April] was outstanding! As an undergraduate I was a college library worker, so much of what he wrote resonated personally. Being set free among stacks gave us a wonderful wanderlust—and that’s something true for libraries everywhere, not just Boston. Tom Martella Washington, D.C.

Deep-Seated Tradition We at the North Adams Museum of History and Science were delighted to read Leath Tonino’s recollection from Vermont, “The Joys of Jack Jumping” [ January/February]. Jumpers were popular in the Berkshires as well. In fact, we have several on display, some with the local Ski ’n Sit trademark NEWENGLAND.COM

G R E TA R Y B US ( K E L L E H E R ) ; B I L L G AG N E (G AG N E ) ; I N D I A N H I L L P R E S S ( “ S O N GS O F J U N E ” )

CONTRIBUTORS

SONGS OF JUNE Singing birds and humming bees Perambulate the peonies So glad to find the month of June full They’ve resolved to make it tuneful. —D.A.W.

label showing they were manufactured in North Adams. Thanks again to Leath, photographer Oliver Parini, and Yankee for bringing back fond winter memories. Justyna Carlson, secretary North Adams Museum of History and Science North Adams, Massachusetts

Author, Author Just a shout-out to two of your most gifted writers: Ben Hewitt and Julia Shipley. I always look forward to their contributions, which keep me subscribing to Yankee after many years. Their stories capture life in this part of the world so beautifully, with honesty, humor, and wonderful visuals. Margaret Ramsdell Craftsbury Common, Vermont Write us! Send your comments to editor@yankeemagazine.com. Please include where you live. Letters may be edited for length and clarity.

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Inside Yankee | M E L A L L E N

Tests of Time t is human nature to explore, to want to discover the new, and then to celebrate when we find it. This is why we travel. But there is also pleasure in those places and experiences that have stood the test of time, where what you see and feel has been seen and felt in almost the same way by someone long ago. Henry David Thoreau was a bit of a prophet when, after a three-day walk along the outer Cape in 1849, he predicted, “This coast will be a place of resort for those New Englanders who really wish to visit the seaside.” He would be astonished at how Cape Cod and its islands, Nantucket and Martha’s Vineyard, have become some of the most recognized destinations in the country, but much of what he described remains today: The waves broke on the bars at some distance from the shore ...10 or 12 feet high, like a thousand waterfalls, rolled in foam to the sand. There was nothing but that savage ocean between us and Europe. Our “63 Reasons Why We Love the Cape and Islands” [p. 64] is filled with suggestions on how to enjoy these storied places, just as visitors have been doing for so long. In putting this package together, we sought out locals such as writer Kate Whouley, who for more than two decades has played flute in the Cape Cod Concert Band, and Kim Grant, whose many travel books on the Cape and Islands have guided tens of thousands. A summit ride aboard the Mount Washington Cog Railway [“The Cog Turns 150,” p. 102] remains one of the most memorable train excursions anywhere. The views and intermittent gasps of awe as the Cog climbs the steep mountainside would likely have been shared by President Ulysses S. Grant in the summer of 1869 when he, too, rode the new train to the top. When Yankee deputy editor Ian Aldrich brought his 7-year-old son, Calvin, to the classic Vermont camp known as Quimby Country, he was following the tradition of families who have vacationed there since the 1890s [“Disconnect to Connect,” p. 92]. Vacations like these can feed our desire to escape while also providing the comfort of continuity. More than anywhere else, as these stories show, New England gives these twin gifts of summer. One final note: Wherever you travel this season, look for a new book close to my heart, a collection of stories by Geoffrey Douglas titled The Grifter, the Poet, and the Runaway Train. Each of its stories has graced this magazine and stood the test of time. They are among the very best we have ever published. Safe travels. Try to get lost on winding roads, and let our editors’ picks [p. 109] lead you to adventure and unforgettable moments in this region we are lucky enough to call home.

Mel Allen editor@yankeemagazine.com 12 |

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First Person | E R I N R H O D A

A Father’s Gift hen I picture my grandfather, he is refilling the wood stove on his farm in Milo, Maine. He is turning over a row of potatoes with a potato digging fork. When the Piscataquis River f looded my grandparents’ home, he rebuilt the walls himself. For each of his grandchildren, he hand-made a pine desk and chest. I remember few things he said, as he was quiet, but I remember what he did. Today, I still see my grandfather in my father, who inherited the same creased eyelids, downward smile, and affinity for hard labor, stubbornness, and doing things yourself. The Rhoda family milked about 30 cows and ran a farm stand, all while my grandfather also worked for the American Thread Company and the railroad. My father told me that when he was little, he had to work outside with his father if he wanted to spend time with him. My grandfather instilled in my father a love of the land and the need to make something out of it. When my mom and dad bought a 75-acre farm with a red farmhouse in 1977 in Washington, Maine, my grandfather asked them why they would do such a thing when they could get by without all the work that a farm entails. I asked my father the same thing, years later. It’s not about making a living, he said. It’s about a way of life. rm in the family fa on a, od Rh s My parents’ red farmhouse, situated ar Paul ch—many ye her father, barn in whi , age 2, w ith e d. or th rie th is ar au m em e be th next to an old Wolf River apple tree and Th ld hind entually wou n, Maine . Be ing—she ev Washing to ild bu re of t overlooking t wo massive maple trees, ter a lo later and af fields, and woods, was my introduction to my family’s definition of Maine. The day I learned to tie my shoes, I ran outside to tell my father, who was measuring out straight rows in his garden using pieces of wood and string. That’s great, he told me. Now you can help me tie the string around this stake. My parents still chop and stack several cords of firewood and hay their fields twice a summer. They have kept a number of animals—sheep, goats, chickens, turkeys—and grow their own vegetables (including too many tomatoes and hot peppers). And sometimes, my father surprises me with a gift: a tall bookcase made from my grandfather’s pine, an outdoor picnic table with benches, a picture with a handmade wooden frame. People say the heart is a symbol of love. For my family, it’s a pair of hands. This is perhaps why it was so difficult for Matt and me to find a place to be married several years ago. All the wedding venues we looked at felt empty and meaningless—intimate spaces 14 |

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too easily bought. After months of searching, Matt said, “Why don’t we just get married on your parents’ farm ? ” He k new what I wanted before I realized it myself. I walked the property, trying to see where we could f it nearly 100 people. There was plenty of space in the fields, but the ground was too hilly for chairs. The cement pad in the upper back field was workable, but it was covered in logs and farm equipment and surrounded by prickly nettle. It became clear that the best

My father worked almost every day on the project, sometimes late into the night, the blazing barn lights competing with the stars.

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and only spot would be facing the Wolf River apple tree, where guests would have views to the horizon. The problem was that next to the apple tree stood an 1830s barn covered with dirty, peeling green asphalt-shingle siding. It was sinking in places and was filled with manure, spiders, and decades of accumulated junk. No problem, my parents said. We’ ll just clean the inside and replace the asphalt siding. In March, with crowbars and hammers, we started removing the outer layer of the barn’s face, followed by the black tar paper that covered the wooden planks. But once we reached the underpinnings, we realized we had a problem: Many of the beams and boards were rotten. Five months before the wedding, we were going to have to rebuild the entire front side of the three-story barn. My father never considered hiring professiona ls. He borrowed NEWENGLAND.COM

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scaffolding from a friend, and I held the ladder as he climbed up 25 feet to bolt the legs in place. Nearly every weekend, Matt and I traveled home to help. We stripped away siding, demolished door and window frames, hammered out weak boards, and trucked it all to the dump. My father worked almost every day on the project, sometimes late into the night, the blazing barn lights competing with the stars. He planned out the new design, bought materials, leveled the structure as much as he could with his father’s railroad jack, and orchestrated our every move. He taught us everything: how to use the circular saw and sawzall, perfect the f lashing around handmade windows, construct and hang level doors, and edge the new pine siding. The one week he was away for work, he left us a 10-page PowerPoint presentation, complete with photo diagrams and precise board lengths and angle cuts. We f inished the barn two days before the wedding. My grandfather would have been proud. The f irst thing I heard on our wedding day was the buzz of heat bugs. It was scorching. I found my father tending to the tomatoes in the garden near the ceremony spot and cleaning caterpillar webs out of the apple tree, a knife on his belt, ready for anything. My father showed his love and honored our love with every swing of his hammer. Fittingly, he cut the trim at the barn’s peak into the shape of a heart. We f inished the barn two days before the wedding, and I know my grandfather would have been proud. Each year since, my parents have tack led another side of the barn. Sometimes I visit and find them high above the ground, yelling at each other through their earplugs, trying to extend the barn’s life with simple materials and hard work. This is how I’ll always remember them. NEWENGLAND.COM

“JFK’s Victura” A moment in history

Forrest Pirovano’s painting, “JKF’s Victura”portrays young JFK and Jackie sailing in the wind. John F Kennedy’s beloved sailboat, “Victura” is a 25foot Wianno Senior classic gaff-rigged sloop, built on Cape Cod. It was given to John by his parents in 1932 on his fifteenth birthday. Although through the years JFK owned larger boats, “Victura” remained his favorite boat for the rest of his life. This beautiful limited edition print of an orignal oil painting, individually numbered and signed by the artist, Forrest Pirovano, captures the detail of the painting and gives the subject a sense of time and place. This exquisite print is bordered by a museum-quality

white-on-white double mat, measuring 11x14 inches. Framed in either a black or white 1½ inch deep wood frame, this limited edition print measures 12¼ X 15¼ inches and is priced at only $149. Matted but unframed the price for this print is $109. Prices include shipping and packaging. Forrest Pirovano is a Cape Cod artist. His paintings capture the picturesque landscape and seascapes of the Cape, which have a universal appeal. His paintings often include the many antique wooden sailboats that grace the surrounding waters.

FORREST PIROVANO, artist P.O. Box 1011 • Mashpee, MA 02649 Visit our studio in Mashpee Commons, Cape Cod All major credit cards are welcome. Please send card name, card number, expiration date, code number & billing ZIP code. Checks are also accepted.…Or you can call Forrest at 781-858-3691.…Or you can pay through our website www.forrestcapecodpaintings.com

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At the University of Vermont’s Morgan Horse Farm, the world’s oldest continuous Morgan horse breeding herd continues with the likes of Avenger, a colt born last spring and shown here with equine specialist Sarah Fauver.

The Horse That Changed America UVM’s Morgan Horse Farm shows how its namesake breed is far more than a storybook legend. BY JULIA SHIPLEY

PHOTOGR APHS BY

HE AT HER M ARCUS

here are any number of ways to wind up at the magisterial white barn at the University of Vermont’s Morgan Horse Farm in Weybridge, Vermont, a 127-acre propert y t ucked bet ween the Green Mountains and the silver trough of Lake Champlain. If you’re a horse, chances are you were born here, one of many offspring in the longest continuous breeding program of Morgans in the nation, one devoted to perpetuating the traits of a horse that changed America. You are the descendant of a not-sopromising colt that begat a worldfamous breed. If you’re 25-year-old equine specialist Kim Demars, you were first a kid who longed for a Morgan horse, and now, thanks to mysterious providence, you’re helping ensure the future of the breed. But let ’s say you’re one of the farm’s 10,000 annual visitors, which means you followed increasingly remote roads before

finally turning up Battell Drive, where a pair of weeping willows drape like horses’ manes, to reach this historic farm. So you’ve parked your car on this June morning, and now you’re strolling toward this stately barn, with its fancy cornices and cupola, at the end of a sprawling lawn. It’s serene and silent. You may be wondering, Is anyone here? but inside it’s a veritable equine hive: home to 40 horses, more if you count the ones in vitro. Wander into the vestibule, festooned with ribbons and photographs of dark-eyed champions, and you’ll meet the person staffing the gift shop. Just a hay bale’s toss away from the cash register there’s a long hall of box stalls, each with a 1,000-pound Morgan watching your approach. Down one f loor you’ll find more stalls, and tucked into a corner there’s a chestnut mare with bright white socks standing in the crossties as an apprentice brushes her flanks, preparing her to meet some visitors. | 21

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Beyond is the indoor riding area, where a horse the color of molasses trots in earnest circles around a woman with her blond hair pulled into a ballerina bun—this is Demars, the farm manager. Within the hour they’ll clear out so a stallion can arrive and occupy the area for breeding purposes. His material will be examined and packed into containers in a nearby laboratory: It’s a side room no bigger

than a pantry, but it contains everything necessary to perpetuate the genetics of a horse that never lived in a barn as grand as this one. — The Morgan breed originated with Justin Morgan, a Vermont music teacher who in 1792 fortuitously accepted a debt repayment in the form of two horses—a stallion and a colt—instead of cash. In the days

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT : A view of the grand 1878 barn built by the farm’s founder, Colonel Joseph

Battell; farm manager Kimberly Demars with Havana, one of the Morgan broodmares; Havana stretching her legs with her filly, named Admiration; Demars at work in the barn.

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when almost everyone and everything moved around on or behind a horse, Morgan’s colt, named Figure, became legendary. “This is the story of a common, ordinary little work horse who turned out to be the father of a famous family of American horses” is how Marguerite Henry begins Justin Morgan Had a Horse, the book published in 1945 that won a Newberry Honor award and a lot of youngsters’ hearts. Though small in size—reportedly 14 hands and about 900 pounds—Figure accomplished astonishing feats. He cleared timber and hauled stones to establish fields and pastures throughout north-central Vermont. In 1795 (or thereabouts), he raced against two horses in Brookf ield—one after the other—and won both times. Almost a decade later, he won a pulling contest in St. Johnsbury. Then, in July 1817, Figure bore President Monroe through the streets of Montpelier— leaving little doubt as to why the breed later became Vermont’s state animal, as “it could outdraw, outrun, and outtrot any other horse.” Justin Morgan kept his “rugged little stallion” for only a handful of years; he advertised his breeding services, leased him out as a workhorse, and then sold him. Figure went on to have 11 owners during his lifetime. Even so, the horse came to be known by Morgan’s name, as did the breed, secured by Figure’s accomplished progeny. In a lithograph portrait of Justin Morgan, his eyeglasses perch on his forehead and his face registers a look of sober surprise, as if he’d just heard, Hey, mister, long after you’re gone, people will utter your name daily, because it will become the moniker for a breed that will carry thousands of men through the coming wars, haul families out West, and will even set a record as the fastest trotter in the world. And all because one late summer day Justin Morgan went out to collect a debt and brought that little colt home. NEWENGLAND.COM

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| THE HOR SE

— Two hu nd red yea rs later, K im Demars’s parents brought a little filly home, a Morgan named Tanner. Tanner was 4 and feisty; Kim was 7. They matured together. Then Kim left for college, and Tanner went to another farm. So Kim assumed that the Morgan portion of her life was over. But then one day after college, as she was working as a receptionist, the director of the Morgan Horse Farm, Steve Davis, phoned asking her to stop by to chat about a job opportunity. Did that just happen? she asked herself afterward. Soon, she was learning to breed Morgans at a 19th-century

Demars watched her first foal—a filly— unfold her jumble of slick limbs, then rock herself upright, and stand. farm founded by Colonel Joseph Battell, a man smitten with the breed. W hat horseman wouldn’t be ? Figure’s descendants had accompanied prospectors to California for the Gold Rush in 1848 and hustled mail across the dangerous West with the Pony Express. They had served both a Confederate general and a Union general during the Civil War, and after the war they were chosen for the U.S. Cavalry. They inspired Battell, a bachelor philanthropist from Middlebury, who commissioned this handsome facility to house some of the finest Morgans as well as established the Morgan Horse Registry. In volume I of his American Stallion Register he wrote, “ W hen such men … who had progressive ideas … to improving the horse stock of the country

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have died, they have left no sons who were interested to carry out their ideas, hence their choice animals have been dispersed and their efforts in measure been lost.” To counteract this, when Battell died in 1907 he left his barn and the Morgan-stocked property to the U.S. government, which turned it into the cavalry remount station Battell had envisioned. “ With a government breeding establ ishment managed by honest competent men who are practical horsemen, and who have made the subject of heredity careful study, it will be different,” he wrote. “When one set of men drop out, others will be found who will take their places and continue to carry out the original idea, generation after generation.” — In 2013, a few months into her new job, Demars bred her f irst mare. Donning a long plastic glove, she administered a whisker-thin cylinder containing genetics of a carefully chosen stallion into the mare, thereby accomplishing the risk-free equivalent of a romp in the hay. Then she waited as first-cut hay was baled and stacked away … as zinnias were planted and clapboards painted … as busloads of visitors toured the premises … as geldings trotted in circles, preparing for horse shows … as second-cut hay was baled and stored … as the older foals were weaned … as water buckets froze and Battell Drive had to be salted and plowed. Then finally, 330 days later, the mare gave birth. In that late April chill, Demars watched her first foal—a filly—blink her wide, sober eyes; unfold her jumble of slick limbs; then rock herself upright, and stand. Whereas many of the farm’s Morgans have dark coats, this foal’s was a bright chestnut, and above her hind hoofs were white socks. Over the following months and years, visitors praised the distinct beauty of the f illy, who was named Valencia. “She was true to the Morgan type,”

The oldest existing image of Figure, the founding stallion of the Morgan horse breed, published as a frontispiece illustration in The Morgan Horse and Register by Joseph Battell (Middlebury, 1894).

explains Margot Smithson, operations coordinator at the farm. “Her parts all fit together; her face was so pretty, and as far as her temperament was concerned, she was as kind and sweet as they come.” In this way, Valencia embodied the qualities of her famous ancestor, Figure. The U.S. government concluded its remount program in 1951—by which point automotive technology had made horses nearly obsolete— and subsequently the property was acquired by the University of Vermont. Over the years a series of “honest competent men” have continued the Morgan breeding program on the premises, f inancing the enterprise through selling horses, offering breeding services, and welcoming tourism. Mor e r e c e nt l y, w om e n h a v e assumed leadership roles at the farm. On this June day Demars and her apprentice, Hannah Bevilacqua, are working inside the lab. As Bevilacqua analyzes a stallion’s semen under the microscope, Demars assembles the containers for f illing breeding dosages. For the past six weeks they’ve attended the deliveries of eight foals. NEWENGLAND.COM

COURTESY OF THE VERMONT HISTORIC AL SOCIET Y

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As well, they’ve been breeding other mares to carry on the next generation. In a nearby corral, the newest horses, some just a month old, nuzzle and bump against their mothers. The colts are alert and inquisitive, adhering to the mares like mischievous shadows. One nibbles your bare elbow, and then sniffs opportunistically at your wrist. Then it reaches out to nip another foal, reminding you of backseat shenanigans between siblings. Just before noon, a couple arrives at the farm. A month ago, they took the five-dollar tour that begins outside by the bronze statue of Figure. By the time they steered their car back down Battell Drive, they, too, were smitten with the breed. Today they are hoping to meet a special horse, one they can ride across the open fields of Vermont. After greeting the couple in the barn’s vestibule, Demars leads them past the preserved skeleton of Black Hawk, a famous Morgan trotter, and the black-and-white photos of prizewinning government Morgans. She takes them down the corridor of Battell’s beautiful barn to the box stall at the end, where she stops, her hand on the latch of the stall. Then she slides open the door to reveal a 5-year-old mare with a shiny chestnut coat and pretty white socks standing patiently. “This,” she says, “is Valencia.”

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| KNOWLEDGE & WISDOM USEFUL STUFF FROM 83 YEARS OF YANKEE

Pesto Change-o Beset by dandelions? Channel your inner weed-eater.

e curse them. We tug them out, and they return in what seems like minutes. Ah yes, that invasive and pervasive pox: the dandelion. But I say, befriend this persistent perennial, and—if you don’t treat your lawn with harmful chemicals (and I really hope you don’t) —cook ’em up. Dandelions are rich in vitamins A, B, C, and D, plus a wide variety of minerals and other beneficial nutrients. First, I experimented with a traditional tea, but I didn’t care for the bitter f lavor. Dandelion wine was fun, but the brewing and the bottling was all too much work. For me, the answer was pesto: the delicious Italian basil-based paste that can be stirred into cooked pasta, used as a layer for pizza, or eaten with a smear of goat cheese on crackers.

So mix up a big batch of dandelion pesto—it’s easy. And come winter, you may even be longing for a yard dotted with those tenacious “weeds.” DANDELION PESTO 2 cups packed dandelion leaves, rinsed and dried 1 dozen large basil leaves 2 garlic cloves 1 cup lightly toasted hazelnuts (skins removed) ½ cup olive oil ½ cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese Kosher or sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Pulse together dandelion leaves, basil, garlic, and nuts in a food processor. Scrape down the sides. Add olive oil and process until a smooth paste forms. Pulse in cheese, and season to taste with salt and pepper. —Adapted from “Early Risers” by Annie B. Copps, May/June 2009

UNCOMMON SENSE

—Linda Greenlaw (born December 22, 1960, in Stamford, Connecticut). As a 30-year-old swordfishing captain, Greenlaw survived the deadly 1991 tempest made famous by Sebastian Junger’s The Perfect Storm. But the event still changed her life, since as a result the Isle au Haut, Maine, resident wrote her first book, The Hungry Ocean—published 20 years ago this spring—and launched a second career that has yielded five nonfiction best-sellers, two cookbooks, and four mystery novels (and counting ).

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Humpback Whales 7 Months in New England’s whale watching season (April–October)

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1986 Year that humpback whales “saved” humans from extinction (in Star Trek IV: The Voyage Home)

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For Now And Ever A Most Unusual Gift of Love

THE POEM READS:

“There is no moment of my life when you are not a part of me; you hold my heart; you guard my soul; you guide my dreams so tenderly. And if my will might be done, and all I long for could come true, with perfect joy I would choose to share eternity with you.”

Dear Reader, The drawing you see above is called For Now and Ever. It is completely composed of dots of ink. After writing the poem, I worked with a quill pen and placed thousands of these dots, one at a time, to create this gift in honor of the the love of two of my dearest friends. Now, I have decided to offer For Now and Ever to those who have known and value its sentiment as well. Each litho is numbered and signed by hand and precisely captures the detail of the drawing. As an anniversary, wedding, or Valentine’s gift for your husband or wife, or for a special couple within your circle of friends, I believe you will find it most appropriate. Measuring 14” by 16”, it is available either fully-framed in a subtle copper tone with hand-cut double mats of pewter and rust at $145*, or in the mats alone at $105*. Please add $18.95 for insured shipping. Returns/exchanges within 30 days. My best wishes are with you.

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Home | P R I V A T E T O U R

SE A WOR LD

OPPOSITE : Sara Fitzgerald O’Brien, namesake and cofounder of the lifestyle and design brand Sara Fitz. THIS PAGE : With its ample natural light and sandy hues, the O’Briens’ living room epitomizes coastal casual.

P H OTO G R A P H S BY B R E A M c D O N A L D ; I L LUS T R AT I O N C O U R T E S Y O F S A R A F I T Z

A M A I N E C O T TAGE R E F L E C T S T H E PA S SION A N D A E S T H E T IC BE H I N D T H E DE SIGNS OF S A R A F I T Z . BY A N N I E GR AV E S

MAY | JUNE 2019

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“Nantucket is just in me,” says Sara Fitzgerald O’Brien, as we drift from the living room to her art studio, in the home she shares with her husband, Miles, and their boys, Everett, 8, and Oliver, 6, in York, Maine. The sea feels tangible here, the mood like quiet water at twilight. Foamy color washes the walls; furnishings f lash pale turquoise, ocean blue. Bleached pine cupboards and tables— antique chunks of them—are strewn about like driftwood. Sea creatures would not be out of place here. It’s easy living the beach dream when your home is actually on a beach. Fortunately, even if it’s not, there are ways to get around that. This slice of ocean calm is, in fact, a 10-minute walk from the water—although Long Sands Beach is visible seasonally through plastic bin34 |

oculars secured to the poop deck of the boys’ wooden pirate ship in the backyard. “We didn’t even know there was a water view when we bought this house,” Sara says. “In the morning, Miles and I come out here and we just smell the salt air. The boys look at us like, what are you doing?” Therein lies the paradox of this pretty, redshingled cottage. It shares its breezy tranquility—abundantly ref lected in Sara’s luminous watercolors for her Sara Fitz collection of note cards, wallpaper, fabrics, wedding invitations, and art prints—with two lively young boys. And let’s be clear: “Our boys are all boy, all the time,” says Miles. “Umm, don’t look too closely at the walls,” Sara warns. “These boys are high-energy, they love to play. We’re definitely casual!” NEWENGLAND.COM

M A R K F L E M I N G (K I TC H EN , B AC K YA R D); B R E A M c D O N A L D ( P L AT E S , D I N I N G A R E A)

Home | P R I V A T E T O U R

CLOCKWISE FROM FAR LEFT : Sara and husband Miles in their York, Maine, kitchen with sons Everett and Oliver; a selection of Sara Fitz dishware; the boys’ one-of-akind backyard hangout; the kitchen nook’s farmhouse table and hutch, both family heirlooms; a vintage dresser provides an oceanic splash of teal.

The O’Briens chased this house for more than a year, while waiting for their York Village home to sell. “I cried so many nights,” says Sara, afraid they would lose the 1988 cottage with its requisite “good bones.” But there was something more. “I have a weird thing with this house,” she muses. “I’m very inspired by it, the light, the trees around us, the doors open to the breeze, the salt air. The second we walked in—it was like our house. It felt like part of our family right away.” By 2012, it was. Before they moved in, the couple made one dramatic change, which, says Miles, transformed everything. They tore down the wall between the kitchen and the dining/living room, opening up the entire back length of the house. After that, it was cosmetic tweaks, although extensive ones: MAY | JUNE 2019

replacing every light fixture, for example, and changing paint colors. “We knew we wanted a light palette for the walls,” says Sara, so they opted for “crisp linen white,” mixed specially at the local hardware store. The wall-towall carpet came up; heart pine f loors went down. “It dents, but it’s got so much character,” she says. “Like the marble counter in the kitchen—I wanted our family’s living here to show.” It does, in a carefree yet beautiful beachliving way, even on the walk-out lower level, where Miles runs the business end of Sara Fitz, and the boys get cozy in reading nooks that feel like ship’s bunks. Both Sara and Miles were inspired by summers growing up on Nantucket, where they met in their early 20s. The click was practically audible (both mothers had | 35

P R I VAT E TO U R

M ARK F LEMING (STUDIO); BRE A McDONALD (GIF T WR AP)

been interior designers—“He knew what ‘chalking a pillow’ meant,” she remembers, with a smile); their 2007 wedding took place on the island, naturally. And the delicate watercolors that Sara hand-painted for their own wedding invitations when she couldn’t f ind anything she liked eventually launched a business that has, over time, morphed into the Sara Fitz items that I see scattered around her studio. Coastal-inspired fabrics dangling on twine near a basket of Sara Fitz gift wrap, and art prints lined up like pickets on a fence. A world of spindly anchors, striped sailor shirts, poetic lobsters, and the bluest hydrangeas, in wispy watercolor. And yes, each of these whimsical images—from whales to old-timey life jackets—is different, but they’re also intrinsically complementar y, an intentional design decision that allows customers to create their own

| Home

OPPOSITE : Props from Sara Fitz photo

shoots and coastal treasures collected over years fill the shelves in the studio. THIS PAGE : Sara Fitz wrapping paper designed for year-round giving.

original combinations of fabrics, prints, and wallpapers, tilted toward casual coastal living. Not surprising, really, because the same ethos applies in the O’Brien home.

“It’s not matchy-matchy,” Sara observes about the vintage furnishings that inhabit their home, a mix of the Nantucket pieces they each grew up with, including a long, primitive harvest table in the kitchen nook, and an English pine hutch where they often stage Sara Fitz photo shoots. “But I think they work together because they’re all things that have meaning for us, that were part of our families.” She pauses to consider. “And I love that our boys are growing up with them too.” For more information or to buy online, go to sarafitz.com.

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Backyard Living From the ﬁrst robin sighting in early spring to the colorful tumble of leaves in autumn, New Englanders savor every day they get to spend outdoors. With winter jackets now packed away and a breeze blowing through open windows, it’s the perfect time to maximize your outdoor space to make the most of the season—whether you’re limited to an apartment balcony or expanding into acres of property. Nothing beats fresh veggies to brighten up a meal, so stock up on planters, tools, and storage to get your garden into tip-top shape. Bring your entire cooking and dining experience into the sunshine by setting up a grill and a new patio furniture set. Want to enjoy a juicy burger on rainy days too? With Kenyon’s Floridian Electric Grill and Cart, you can easily move the entire barbecue inside! Get ready to revel in seasonal splendor by creating an outdoor living space that’s perfect for your family. For easy inspiration, check out our picks for New England Backyard Living.

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SANDWICH LANTERN Our onion lanterns have been handcrafted on location for over 30 years using solid brass (shown) or solid copper to withstand even the harshest coastal climates. Whether you need a wall mount (shown), or a post top mount, we have options to help light up your backyard!

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Every Bag Has a Story On Portland’s working waterfront, Sea Bags makes waves with totes crafted from recycled sails. BY ANNIE GR AVES PHOTOGR APHS BY

G R E TA RY B U S

COURTESY OF SEA BAGS (ANCHOR BAG)

uck down an inconspicuous alley in the Old Port, and you’ll find yourself on Portland’s historic Custom House Wharf. Weather-beaten buildings lean into each other, and the sharp ocean air and occasional fishy smell put you on notice: You’ve stumbled onto a working waterfront, with lobster boats lashed to the back side of the pier and fishermen bringing in their catch. ¶ The old wharf is home to a colorful mix of tightly packed neighbors. The Harbor Fish Market, a landmark since the 1800s, is like bait for photographers. The Porthole Restaurant & Pub has been a mainstay for 90 years. And then there’s Sea Bags. ¶ The small, shingled storefront stands over the harbor on long, lanky piers. Step inside the 20-year-old enterprise, and you’re swept into a world of wind and water. Rugged totes line the walls of a 200-square-foot shop, sporting the insignias of sails that have traveled the world. A low-level clatter from the room next door draws my eye: Nineteen sewing machines whir away, transforming vintage and retired sails into high-end bags. Last year alone, Sea Bags kept 7,000-plus sails out of landfills, converting them into something handcrafted, beautiful, and Maine-made. “My dad was a Bath Iron Works guy,” says Beth Shissler, co-owner of Sea Bags, instantly cementing her CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT : Sea Bags

cofounder Beth Shissler and CEO Don Oakes; Portland’s Custom House Wharf, where the bags are designed and sewn; a bag begins to take shape in the skilled hands of Vannlang Thy, a two-year Sea Bags veteran; rolled sails, ready for their transformation.

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Maine roots. She remembers the early days of the enterprise with her friend, Hannah Kubiak, who founded the business in 1999 but sold her share in 2013. Back then, Kubiak did all the sewing. “In a good year, she might have sold 45 bags,” says Shissler. When Shissler came on in 2006, she took care of everything else, putting her business background to good use. But from the start, she had a vision of what it could be. It’s easy to see why. Every sail has a story. And those stories, in the hands of skillful makers, are crafted into something both romantic and rugged (not to mention practical). Materials might come from dinghies or massive yachts, like the Athena. There are spinnakers, and mainsails, and sometimes a tell-

tale attached (it looks like a tadpole). If you’re well-heeled, you could end up with a rare insignia or a vintage material like tanbark. Faced with walls of bags, each clamoring to tell its tale, some shoppers take hours to make a decision. But it’s a major leap from those early days to the 160,000 handmade Sea Bags created last year. Staffers track down sails, cut them into panels, choose each piece and bring the design together (“kitters” sign their names inside), sew the bags and rope handles, and finally ship every last one of them from this wharf. It sounds, in fact, like Shissler’s early vision. “I knew it could be like this,” she says firmly. “But I didn’t have the skill set.” Enter Don Oakes, CEO, and | 41

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another Mainer by way of L.L. Bean. He gestures around the bright, airy shop, with its view overlooking the lobster boats. “Up until 2013, everything happened in this room,” he says incredulously. And it is hard to believe, after roaming the spacious quarters, including the adjacent sewing room, storeroom, and upstairs offices and workrooms. Because since 2013, business has tripled, now employing 140 people in 18 stores up and down the East Coast— all while staying true to the company’s handmade ethos, not to mention achieving next-level recycling. Try to imagine what 600 tons of reclaimed sails might look like—the amount Sea Bags has saved from landfills since its beginning. “Sustainability wasn’t really trendy back in 2003,” Oakes remarks. “But it’s our business. Without recycled sails, we have no business.” Like boats coming home, the sails find their way. They arrive in bundles, packed into the back of a Sea Bags van that’s gone collecting. Or donated by loving owners who receive a Sea Bag in trade. “One woman had lost her husband recently,” Shissler remembers. “She brought in a sail he’d had since he was a child, and we made a bag from it. When we gave it to her, she clutched it to her heart.” Oakes nods. “Every sail has a story.” And they do endure. “Here’s one of our originals,” Shissler says, proudly showing me a battered white bag with triple-strand rope handles. It has weathered many storms, but it’s still sturdy. “One of our local fishermen carried it forever,” she says. And that’s where it comes full circle, back to this wharf, the sailors and the fishermen, who’ve been good to Sea Bags, right from the start. “They’ve grown with us over time,” says Shissler. “They’re good friends, good protectors when we need it. We’re part of this awesome community.” For more information or to buy online, go to seabags.com. NEWENGLAND.COM

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This is the stuff movies are made of… The Clipper Ship Trade Wind Jewelry Collection Early December, 1868 – A man left Gardiner, Maine, traveled to New York City, boarded his clipper ship, sailed it as its captain around the tip of South America up to San Francisco, then on to Java, Burma, and China. Almost two years later with his ship laden with sugar and tea, he returned home first to New York then to Gardiner, Maine, and his loving family as he had done many times before. Captain Drew kept an unusually detailed handwritten account of his journeys. We have the captain’s log, a beautifully written document also illustrated by the captain. We are serializing this story on our website. The captain’s log was loaned to us by the captain’s great-great-grandson Keith, who goes on gem-buying expeditions to the Orient each year to aquire gems in the cutting centers of the world. Keith brings these gems back to New England where he creates beautiful jewelry, making monthly additions to our Clipper Ship Trade Wind Jewelry Collection. We have the journal and Keith’s jewelry collection. Visit our website, then visit our store to see the entire Trade Wind Jewelry Collection.

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Visual appetizers from the North End Market Tour, which explores Boston’s Little Italy with visits to such landmarks as Bricco Salumeria, Polcari’s Coffee, Monica’s Pasta Shop, and—for dessert—Maria’s Pastry Shop (presided over by namesake owner Maria Merola, far right).

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Take to the streets on these culinary walking tours, and discover the heart of New England’s food scene. By Sandra Miller PHOTOGR APHS BY ADAM DETOUR • FOOD AND PROP ST YLING BY CATRINE KELT Y

Food | T R A V E L

I’m sitting at a long wooden table in the rustic brick-walled dining room of New Haven’s Skappo restaurant with 22 strangers, belting out “La Bella Polenta,” a rousing Italian folk song that celebrates the humble cornmeal dish. We are locals and tourists, recent graduates and retirees, and we’re on the fourth stop of our Taste of New Haven culinary walking tour. I’ve come here to dive deep into the city’s food scene, and halfway through the tour it’s clear that I’ve found the perfect vehicle for discovery. The concept is simple and delicious: In the course of a few hours, a guide introduces local fare through on-foot visits to a variety of food establishments, while also showcasing history, architecture, culture, and lore. Inspired, I spend the next several months taking tours all over New England, ranging from the mom-andpop shops of Boston’s North End to sustainability-minded bistros in Portland, Maine. The following represent five of my favorite tours, all of which are open to the public. And if you can’t take one of these tours yourself, we’ve included some recipes to bring their flavors into your own kitchen.

North End Market Tour Boston, MA Eight of us, including a couple from Wales and a local woman celebrating her 50th birthday with friends, are crowded into Bricco Salumeria, an old-world Italian deli and pasta shop in Boston’s North End, ogling fragrant trays of antipasti and fresh pasta. Here, in the city’s oldest neighborhood, it feels as if we’ve struck culinary gold. On her tour, Italian food expert Michele Topor introduces guests to the shops and markets that uphold the traditions of the Italian immigrants who settled here in the early 1900s. “It’s not a neighborhood of high-rise 50 |

buildings,” says Topor, who has lived in the North End since 1970. “It has soul, vibrancy, and warmth.” In a time of grab-and-go food, every one of our stops—from Polcari’s Coffee, chockablock with Italian products, to the cannoli mecca Maria’s Pastry Shop—is like a trip to the old country. When a plate of mozzarella appears in front of us at Bricco, it becomes a communion of sorts. The freshly made cheese is warm and creamy, a distillation of fresh milk and a revelation to us all. Michele Topor’s Boston Food Tours: 888-774-8303; bostonfoodtours.com — PROSCIUTTO-WRAPPED MOZZARELLA Inspired by the little Italian delis where herb-marinated mozzarella is often sold by the pound, Michele Topor created this simple appetizer. She marinates small mozzarella balls, called ciliegine, in olive oil, lemon, garlic, chives, and chili flakes before wrapping them in sweetsalty prosciutto. It’s an easy, addictive antipasto presentation. ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil Juice of ½ medium lemon 2 tablespoons minced fresh chives 1 garlic clove, minced ¼ teaspoon crushed red chili flakes 30 small fresh mozzarella balls 15 thin prosciutto slices

In a medium bowl, whisk together the olive oil, lemon juice, chives, garlic, and chili flakes.

Drain the mozzarella and add it to the marinade. Marinate at room temperature for at least one hour, or cover and refrigerate overnight. Just before serving, cut the prosciutto slices in half lengthwise. Wrap each piece of mozzarella with a slice of prosciutto. Arrange on a platter, drizzle with marinade, and serve. Yields 8 to 10 servings.

On 9 Tour New Haven, CT Because my Italian husband grew up in New Haven’s Wooster Square, and my father-in-law still lives just steps away from the best brick-oven apizza, I thought I knew this cit y’s food scene well. But on his On 9 Tour of the Ninth Square Historic District, Colin Caplan—author, architect, and native son—shows me what I’ve been missing. Ref lecting the Elm City’s diverse population, the tour’s stops include G Café Bakery for German bread and pastries, Tikkaway Grill for savory bowls of Indian food, and Skappo, where (in addition to voicing our love for “La Bella Polenta”) we learn that New Haven has the largest population of Italian Americans per capita of any U.S. metro area. The Italian-ness of the city is important to the food scene, according to Caplan. “When your Italian grandma’s home cooking is delicious,” he says, “the restaurants have to be worth the price.” Caplan points to another inf luence, too: the thousands of Ya le NEWENGLAND.COM

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Food | T R A V E L Universit y st udents and scholars from around the world, who bring a knowledge and expectation that sets a high bar. “They are the nayers and yayers of the downtown restaurants,” he says. At Skappo, sitting down to plates of pesto basilico, fresh bread, and wine, we are all yayers. Taste of New Haven: 888-975-8664; tasteofnewhaven.com

Downcity Providence Food Tour Providence, RI

We start our tour with generous portions of crisp, beer-battered fish and fries at Dune Brothers, a cherry-red shack with outdoor picnic-table seating. It’s the kind of place you’d expect to find in a seaside tourist town, not in a bustling capital. But after New England natives Jason Hegedus and Nicholas Gillespie recognized that the Providence food scene was taking off, they opened their sustainably sourced seafood shack in 2017

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in the arts and culture district known as Downcity. Paula Silva, founder of R hode Island Red Food Tours, launched her Downcity tour in 2015. “Four years ago, I wouldn’t have been able to run one in this neighborhood,” says Silva, “but all of a sudden there’s a high concentration of great places to eat.” Our tour visits six spots, including Ellie’s Bakery, where we savor crostini with rare roast beef, bourbon aioli, and peach compote. Later we’ll stop at the bakery’s fine-dining sister restaurant, Gracie’s, for dessert: a ginger blondie with matcha Chantilly, shoyu caramel, and sesame ice cream. Alane Spinney, senior barista at Ellie’s, points to the nearby College of Culinary Arts at Johnson & Wales University as a driver of Providence’s thriving and eclectic food scene. “Young culinarians from around the world—India, Canada, Barbados— incorporate their foodways into ours,” she says. “They’re adapting their recipes to what’s seasonally available here.” Which means that this small city is home to a world of flavor. Rhode Island Red Food Tours: 866-736-6343; rhodeislandredfoodtours.com — LEMONY BEER-BATTERED FISH Seeking to capture the magic of the New England fish shacks they loved as children, Dune Brothers owners Jason Hegedus and Nicholas Gillespie serve updated seafood classics drawn from the local catch. Here, crisp, well-seasoned white fish pairs with homemade tartar sauce and an elevated take on coleslaw. 2 cups all-purpose flour, divided 1 large egg, lightly beaten 12 ounces (1 bottle) lager or not-too-bitter ale 1 teaspoon kosher salt Canola oil or vegetable oil, for frying 2 pounds white fish, such as hake, cod, haddock, pollock, or tilapia, portioned into 8 to 10 pieces Lemons, for serving

Flaky sea salt or kosher salt, for sprinkling

Put 1 cup flour on a rimmed plate and set aside. Line a baking sheet with paper towels and set aside. In a wide, shallow bowl, combine the remaining flour, the egg, the beer, and the salt. Whisk together until batter is almost smooth (some small lumps are OK). Set a large skillet over mediumhigh heat and add oil to a depth of 1 inch. Bring oil up to a temperature between 360˚ and 375˚. Pat the f ish dry, then dredge in flour. Dip the floured fish into the batter to coat, then shake off any excess. Fry the fish in batches, a few pieces at a time, until golden brown (3 to 5 minutes, depending on thickness). Use tongs to transfer the fish to the lined baking sheet to drain. Serve hot with a squeeze of lemon and a sprinkling of sea salt or kosher salt. Yields 8 to 10 servings. TARTAR SAUCE

2 cups mayonnaise 1 cup chopped cornichons ½ cup chopped brined capers, drained 2 tablespoons chopped herbs, such as chives, parsley, and marjoram 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice ½ tablespoon Worcestershire sauce 2 dashes Tabasco sauce Zest of 1 lemon Salt to taste

In a medium bowl, combine all ingredients. Taste and add salt as needed. Yields about 3 ½ cups. HERBED COLESLAW A lemony dressing replaces the traditional mayonnaise in this seafood shack classic, while fresh herbs add layers of flavor. 2 teaspoons granulated sugar 3 tablespoons white wine vinegar ½ cup thinly sliced shallots ½ head of green cabbage (about 1½ pounds), finely shredded NEWENGLAND.COM

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Food | T R A V E L 1 small fennel bulb (white parts only, halved lengthwise, cored, and very thinly sliced) 2½ large radishes, very thinly sliced ¼ cup packed, finely chopped herbs, such as chives, parsley, chervil, tarragon, and marjoram 1⁄ 3 cup fresh lemon juice ¼ cup olive oil 1 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste

In a small bowl, whisk the sugar into the vinegar until it dissolves. Add the shallots and let them marinate for 10 to 15 minutes. Meanwhile, in a large bowl, use clean hands or tongs to toss together the cabbage, fennel, radishes, and herbs. In a small bowl, whisk together the lemon juice, oil, and salt, then drizzle over the cabbage mixture and

toss again. Let sit for at least 30 minutes before serving. Just before serving, add the shallots, along with their liquid, and toss to combine. Taste and add salt as needed. Yields 8 to 10 servings.

Land, Sea to Fork Tour Portland, ME At Scales, a restaurant in Portland’s Old Port, our tour group is bent over bowls of Bangs Island mussels perfumed with shallots, garlic, and thyme as executive chef Fred Elliott explains how Maine’s cold, oxygen-rich waters and jagged coastline create the conditions for excellent seafood. By way of agreement, we are using slices of French bread to sop up every last drop of buttery golden broth. A bona fide dining mecca, Portland is home to more than 400 restaurants that not only serve the city’s 67,000

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residents but also attract visitors from around the globe. “We have a wide array of food choices here,” says our guide, Bryce Hach, cofounder of Maine Food for Thought Tours, “so what we put on our plate is a ref lection of our values.” Leading us to six standout restaurants that feature local, sustainably sourced ingredients, Hach shares his deep knowledge of Maine’s complex food system at each stop. “We want our guests to walk away with a full belly and a fuller understanding about where our food comes from.” Our tour wraps up at Piccolo, an intimate Italian restaurant where pastry chef and co-owner Ilma Lopez presents us with dessert-size Mason jars of fresh Maine blueberries topped with vanilla cake and mascarpone mousse. With such a short growing season in the state, restaurants are constantly shifting their menus— another lure for visitors with curious palates. Maine Food for Thought: 207619-2075; mainefoodforthought.com — STRAWBERRIES WITH MASCARPONE MOUSSE Piccolo’s Ilma Lopez makes this dessert with fresh local berries in June, which means they rarely need sweetener. If you’re using supermarket berries, however, macerating them in a bit of sugar will bring out the juices, which Lopez brightens with sherry vinegar and lime zest. Paired with a creamy mascarpone mousse, the result is both simple and decadent. FOR THE MOUSSE

1 cup mascarpone 1 cup heavy cream 6 large egg yolks ¼ cup granulated sugar

FOR THE BERRIES

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4 cups sliced fresh strawberries 2 teaspoons sherry vinegar 1 teaspoon loosely packed fresh lime zest 1–3 tablespoons granulated sugar, as needed NEWENGLAND.COM

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Food | T R A V E L In a large bowl, beat the mascarpone and cream together with an electric or stand mixer until medium peaks form. Set aside. Fill another large bowl with a few inches of ice water and set aside. Set up a double boiler and bring to a boil, then reduce heat to medium-low. Whisk the egg yolks and sugar together in the bowl until they turn pale in color and thicken noticeably—the temperature should measure 165° to 170° on an instant-read thermometer. Remove from heat immediately and transfer the bowl with the egg mixture to an ice water bath to stop cooking. Working in four batches, gently fold the egg mixture into the whipped cream mixture until evenly mixed. Div ide the mousse among eight 8-ounce jars or ramekins and refrigerate until set, at least 2 hours and up to overnight. About 30 minutes before ser v-

ing, combine the strawberries with the vinegar and lime zest. Taste the berries and add sugar as needed. Let the mixture macerate until you are ready to serve, then top the mascarpone mousse with the strawberries and serve cold. Yields 8 servings.

Best of Portsmouth Tour Portsmouth, NH With one of the nation’s highest concentrations of eateries per capita, Portsmouth is a food lover’s town. “There are more restaurant seats here than there are residents,” jokes our guide, Colleen Westcott, cofounder of the tour company Portsmouth Eats. “What makes Portsmouth special is that the chefs, farms, and restaurants work together to support each other in a collaborative way.”

The Best of Por tsmouth Tour takes us through six top-rated restaurants in this port city of 21,000, and each place we visit feels intimate and welcoming. Many, like the Library— originally the Rockingham, where both George Washington and John F. Kennedy dined—also hum with the vibrant history of this onetime shipbuilding hub. Our last stop, the River House, f inds us seated at high tables overlooking the Piscataqua, the swiftest navigable river in North America. Pleasure boats move in and out of the expansive harbor, and the air smells briny and alive. As we dip into bowls of t heir awa rd-w inning sea food chowder, my husband and I exchange a nod: The creamy broth brimming with fresh haddock and shellf ish tastes just like summer by the sea. Portsmouth Eats : 603-571- 3287; portsmouth-eats.com

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Food | W E E K E N D S W I T H Y A N K E E

Mixing It Up with Tamworth Distilling A behind-the-scenes look at a New Hampshire highlight from season three of Weekends with Yankee. BY A MY TR AVER SO

Amy Traverso is Yankee’s senior food editor and cohost of our TV show, Weekends with Yankee (weekendswithyankee.com).

PHOTOGR APH BY ADA M DE TOUR S T Y LING BY C AT RINE KELT Y

MAY FLOWERS FIZZ

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hich is more beautiful: the full bloom of spring or the pea k of fa l l ? If you’re partial to the former, you’re in your element right now—and a tast y cocktail known as the May Flowers Fizz is a terrific way to celebrate blossom season. This recipe was inspired by a visit to Tamworth Distilling, a small-batch spirits producer located in the idyllic village of Tamworth, at the southern edge of the White Mountains. The Weekends with Yankee crew filmed a segment there in mid-October, and between the mountain views, the beauty of Tamworth’s 19th-century architecture, and the Technicolor glory of peak foliage, that day could’ve converted any spring loyalist to the autumn camp. Our guides were master distillers Matt Power and Jamie Oakes, both local boys who left town for school and work, only to have the good fortune to f ind their dream jobs back at home. They were hired by founder Steven Grasse, a marketing guru from Philadelphia who had launched such brands as Hendrick’s Gin and Sailor Jerry Rum, which afforded him a vacation property in Tamworth not far from where his family had summered every year of his childhood. With a supply of fresh water from the Ossipee Aquifer, Grasse created a line of spirits infused with the f lavors of New Hampshire. As much as possible, all of Tamworth NEWENGLAND.COM

W EEK EN D S W I T H YA N K EE

Distilling’s ingredients come from within a 150-mile radius of the distillery, and grains are milled on-site. Beets for infused vodka are grown in the garden and at a local farm, mushrooms are foraged locally, and balsam buds are picked fresh in the surrounding woods. Power and Oakes took us on a hike to a beautiful overlook where a stand of balsams offered those very buds for picking. Then we headed back to Power’s test kitchen, where he uses a rotary evaporator to distill the buds into their component f lavor compounds and selectively recombine those elements with other f lavors to make, say, Tamworth’s line of seasonal gins. In the tasting room, one of those gins stood out for its unexpected blend of juniper, grapefruit, geranium, and elderf lower. Called Flora, it had us thinking of fresh spring

mornings—which in turn led to this cocktail, which is fragrant with aromas of ginger, lime, and rose. As is, the recipe serves two, but it can be easily scaled up to serve a crowd. MAY FLOWERS FIZZ First, a few notes on the ingredients: Rose water is available at many Whole Foods stores, gourmet markets, and Middle Eastern and Indian groceries. As for the ginger syrup, you can make it by simmering 1 cup each of water, sugar, and peeled sliced ginger until it’s reduced by a third. And to avoid pesticides on the flower petals used in this cocktail, use only organically or home-grown blooms—or simply garnish just before serving, so the flowers have limited contact with the drink. 2 ounces (¼ cup) gin 1 ounce (2 tablespoons) ginger syrup

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¾ ounce (1½ tablespoons) fresh lime juice 2 teaspoons rose water Splash of plain seltzer Fresh rose petals, for garnish

Combine gin, ginger syrup, lime juice, and rose water in a shaker, fill two-thirds of the way with ice, and shake v igorously for 30 seconds. Strain into a coupe, top with a splash of seltzer, garnish with rose petals, and serve cold. Yields 2 servings.

TUNE IN FOR MORE! Follow Amy Traverso’s culinary adventures on our public television series, airing nationwide and online at weekendswithyankee.com

REASONS WHY WE LOVE T HE CAPE AND ISLANDS FROM WHALE WATCHING TO TIMELESS VILLAGES TO MILES OF SOFT, SANDY BEACHES, THIS FABLED MASSACHUSETTS PENINSULA AND ITS ISLAND NEIGHBORS HAVE IT ALL. ILLUSTRATIONS BY JOHN S. DYKES

BASS HOLE BOARDWALK, GRAY’S BEACH, YARMOUTH PORT

YOU CAN WALK ON WATER

The many boardwalks across the Cape protect the fragile wetland places—the shallows, salt marshes, and bogs. And taking a stroll on one can feel miraculous: the teeming ecosystem beneath your feet, the shorebirds preening nearby, the wide-open view. Like this.

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Cape Cod

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REASONS WHY WE LOVE

DAV I D T R I F I L E T T I (P R E V I O US SP R E A D); J U L I E T R E M B L AY (D U N E SH AC K )

The Splendid Solitude of the Outer Beach

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he old dune shack rose out of the sand as though it had been waiting for me. Maybe it had. For nearly an hour I’d hiked under an intense July sun, through the sandy landscape in a southern section of the Province Lands—a barren, beautiful 3,000-acre piece of the Cape Cod National Seashore in Provincetown. I traipsed around scrubby trees and wavy clumps of dune grass, wandered up and down hills of sand, all in an effort to make it to the sea. Along the way I didn’t see another soul. For the past two days I’d navigated traffic and tourists, but there was another Cape, a longtime Eastham resident told me—one you could find if you were willing to trek off the busy path. An empty beach, an endless expanse of sand and weather-beaten shacks. You just had to look for it. I arrived at the Snail Road access trail off Route 6 in Provincetown and began walking. I galloped up one dune to find an expansive natural landscape that seemed a galaxy away from the Cape’s crowds but in reality was only a few miles from souvenir shops, bars, and restaurants. A full afternoon sun was right on top of me as I strolled along a rough trail, a ribbon of sand that eventually crossed a narrow dune-buggy road. I made my way up a small hill, and there it was, the dune shack I’d fixed my eyes on, nestled into the earth as though it had fully accepted its fate: that one day it would be consumed by the sands. A mix of vegetation— mostly shrubs and unwieldy patches of dune grass—framed the building, whose worn cedar shingles gave it an inviting appearance. A rusted lock kept the old door shut. A good 20 yards in front of the shack were a table and two chairs, positioned perfectly to take in the view: a wide strip of sand and a softly rolling Atlantic. Not a single other person was in sight. I took a seat and settled into this moment, when it felt as though I had one of New England’s prized summer destinations all to myself. —Ian Aldrich

3. FEATHERED FRIENDS FLOCK HERE Cape spring is signaled not by robins but by ospreys, whose arrival is doubly welcome: After declining to a single pair here in the ’70s, these sea hawks have become a big conservation success story, with about 350 nesting pairs expected this year. They’re among some 400 bird species you can spot on the Cape or just offshore, where pelagic birds such as shearwaters and storm-petrels are a whale-watching cruise bonus.

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PROVINCETOWN’S PILGRIM MONUMENT

REASONS WHY WE LOVE

SHINING SEA BIKEWAY, WOODS HOLE

M A R K F L EMING (MONUMEN T ); DA N CU T RON A (BIK E T R A IL)

4. The Pilgrim-Inspired Panorama Traversing 60 ramps and 116 steps may sound daunting, but summiting Provincetown’s Pilgrim Monument takes only about 10 minutes at a leisurely pace (longer, if you pause to examine the many interior stones inscribed with the names of U.S. cities that donated them). At the top of the 252-foot tribute to the Pilgrims’ first landing in the New World, in Provincetown, you’ll be rewarded with a vista that on clear days stretches all the way to Boston. pilgrim-monument.org

5. A Bike Trail as Beautiful as America’s Song

trailhead at Depot Avenue, take a glorious spur trail from Woods Hole to Sippewissett, and make a tiny detour to Nobska Light, commanding a perfect picnicking perch. falmouthmass.us/402

A 10.7-mile paved trail from Falmouth to Woods Hole, the spectacular Shining Sea Bikeway traverses unspoiled beaches, cranberry bogs, harbors, marshes, and bird sanctuaries and offers spectacular views of Vineyard Sound. Named in honor of Falmouth native Katharine Lee Bates, composer of “America the Beautiful,” the trail evokes the last line of her song: “from sea to shining sea.” Park at the Falmouth

6. You Can Tell Time Like a Mariner

WHO NEEDS A GROUNDHOG WHEN YOU HAVE A QUAHOG? Beginning in 2009, Doug the Quahog has emerged from his figurative shell on the first day of summer to predict how many beach days the Cape will have that year. This year the crusty little soothsayer—who speaks in secret clam language to his trusted human interpreter, the pirate Johnny Quahog—will deliver his forecast June 21 at the Sea Crest Beach Hotel in North Falmouth (though of course he’s also on Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram). capecodchamber.org/ cape-cod-quahog-day

The clock at the First Congregational Church in Wellfleet is the only town clock in the world that strikes ship’s time. Listen for the chimes every 30 minutes: twice at the top of the hour, once at the half hour.

8. Jam-Packed Summer Stages

9. It’s Easy to Tune In to the Community

10. The Cape Cod National Seashore

From the birthplace of modern American theater (the Provincetown Playhouse), to the storied stage where Henry Fonda and Bette Davis first honed their acting chops (the Cape Playhouse in Dennis), to the nation’s only continuously operated theaters in the round (the Cape Cod Melody Tent in Hyannis and the South Shore Music Circus in Cohasset), the Cape’s wealth of venues are just the ticket for visiting culture vultures.

Home to such local-interest programs as Fishing News and The Weekly Bird Report, award-winning public radio station WCAI gets hyperlocal with the supershort audio clips it sprinkles throughout the day. With titles like “Scalloper,” “Bakesale,” and “Dogs and Boats,” these so-called sonic IDs typically feature someone talking about a uniquely local phenomenon— or as WCAI puts it, “little fragments of life as lived by our neighbors.” capeandislands.org

Created on August 7, 1961, with JFK’s presidential pen stroke, this 43,600acre national park gave everyone access to one of the most treasured stretches of coastline in the East— and in doing so, helped save it. Read the whole story: newengland.com/ the-beach-that-saved-the-cape

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REASONS WHY WE LOVE

11. THERE’S NO BETTER PLACE TO DIP A PADDLE Each of Cape Cod’s 15 towns has lovely and diverse places to kayak, but one spot rises to the top: the protected, calm waters of Pleasant Bay and Nauset Marsh. From swooping seabirds to vibrant green marsh grasses and endless barrier beaches, the view changes with each passing hour. (Pay attention to the tide, though—you don’t want to get caught too far out when it ebbs.) The experts at Goose Hummock in Orleans are a go-to for navigational advice, kayak rentals, and instruction. Parking is limited at the town landings in Orleans and Eastham, but it’s free. goose.com

12. THE CAPE COD HOUSE When a kid draws a house, what emerges will likely look a lot like the simple, sturdy dwelling known as a Cape Cod. Visit the Cape today, and you can see 17th-century originals and marvel at how they still fit seamlessly into the landscape. “[Capes] are as unpretentious as they are livable,” observed famed Boston architect Royal Barry Wills. “Carping critics may poke fun at their rambler roses, picket fences, and stately elms, but such things spell home to most of us.”

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It Rewards

WA N D E R I N G

Puzzling out directions on Cape Cod isn’t easy: To go “down Cape,” you travel north toward Provincetown; to go “up Cape,” you head south and west toward Bourne and Falmouth. So keep a map handy, but be open to serendipity. The Cape’s 400 square miles are packed with summer hot spots—some of which you might discover only by letting yourself get lost.

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World-Class

LIFEGUARDS

REASONS WHY WE LOVE

Not all Cape waters are smooth waters. Some of the most powerful surf on the East Coast can be found on the Outer Cape’s east-facing beaches. But know this: When you’re riding the waves along the Cape Cod National Seashore, you’re being watched over by an elite crew of lifeguards whose basic training is supplemented by 30 hours of preseason training and sharpened by daily workouts throughout the summer. Plus, many National Seashore lifeguards have years or even decades of experience. You may never need these pros, but in this unforgiving part of the Atlantic, you’ll be glad they’re here if you do.

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1 The Gifts of the Glaciers On a map of Cape Cod, blue swatches are everywhere you look. These are kettle ponds, the legacy of glaciers that scoured the land thousands of years ago. Clear and mostly shallow, these pleasingly warm respites from ocean waves are often tucked into woods and require a walk or a bike ride, or even a paddle, to reach. There are supposedly 365 kettle ponds—Nickerson State Park alone has eight, while Wellfleet and Truro claim nearly 20—but you need only discover your favorite. Ask for recommendations at town information booths, and you’ll soon see a whole new side to Cape Cod. NEWENGLAND.COM

REASONS WHY WE LOVE 16. Delicious Dueling French Bakeries The Cape Cod food scene owes a debt to French pastry— specifically, two pâtisseries whose success heralded a wave of next-level dining here. It all began in 2009 with Wellf leet’s PB Boulangerie Bistro, where Philippe Rispoli and Boris Villatte first turned out their Paris-perfect baguettes and croissants. Alas, the partnership soured, and Villatte went on to open Maison Villatte in Falmouth. But happily, Cape diners now have two great spots to choose from. pbboulangeriebistro.com; Facebook

19 IT’S EVEN PRETTIER FROM ABOVE THE CHURCH OF THE TRANSFIGURATION, ORLEANS

17. Watching the Catch Come In at the Chatham Fish Pier

MARK FLEMING (KET TLE PONDS AND PREVIOUS SPREAD); ROBERT BENSON (CHURCH); SHUT TERSTOCK (BIPL ANE)

Get a front seat to the hustle and bustle of the small-boat fishing industry—not to mention a sweeping harbor view—as the daily catch is unloaded at the Chatham Fish Pier. Seasoned fishermen called “pier hosts” are usually stationed at the observation deck, ready to chat with visitors, between 10 a.m. and 1 p.m. Fridays through Mondays. And talk about local flavor: Right next door is the Chatham Fish Pier Market, which serves some of the

best chowder we’ve ever tasted. capecodfishermen.org/pier-program

18. The Artistry of Faith With so much natural wonder to be found on Cape Cod, it may come as a surprise to walk into the Church of the Transfiguration in Orleans and be almost overcome by the richness of what human hands have made: the mosaic floor, the painted frescoes. And when you attend an organ concert here, the church’s unique surround sound will create a memory that will stay with you forever. churchofthetransfiguration.org

Take off from the grass runway of Cape Cod Airfield in Marstons Mills aboard a replica 1930s biplane, or if you prefer, depart from Provincetown Airport in a renovated original biplane from 1940. Either way, you are in for an unparalleled perspective on the Cape’s history and landscape—and with a little luck, you may even spy a whale or two amid the sparkling waves offshore. Tours range from 15 minutes to half an hour or more. For a special treat, schedule a sunset ride. capecodairfield.com

20. T he Outside-the-Box Stores

TAKE A VACATION FROM YOUR RETAIL RUT AT LOCAL FAVES THAT PUT THE “SPECIAL” INTO SPECIALTY SHOPS. HERE ARE FIVE TO GET YOU STARTED:

Atlantic Spice Co., North Truro Discover a literal world of herbs and spices (more than 250 in all, from Egyptian chamomile to Greek oregano) at wholesale prices. atlanticspice.com

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Bird Watcher’s General Store, Orleans One of the first-ever birding specialty stores (c. 1983), this place has gear, gifts, guidance—and a great sense of humor. birdwatchersgeneral store.com

Cape Cod Beach Chair Co., Harwich

Marine Specialties Store, Provincetown

Dr. Gravity’s Kite Shop, Harwich Port

Outside: a selfie-ready 10-foot-tall beach chair. Inside: scaled-down but equally impressive handcrafted woodframed seaside seating. capecodbeachchair.com

This vast space isn’t so much stocked as encrusted with eclectic wares that span decades: military surplus, world flags, dishes, flip-flops.... Allow plenty of time to take it all in. Facebook

Here’s your one-stop not only for every kind of kite—sport, parafoil, box, delta, diamond—but also for beach supplies and toys. (Plus: candy!) drgravitys.com

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People-Watching in Provincetown

A D A M D E TO U R , S T Y L I N G B Y C AT R I N E K E LT Y ( C A P E C O D D E R )

ILLUSTRATION BY NIGEL BUCHANAN

am a person who forgets things— There was a large man in a harness carrynames, the dates of essential historiing a small man in a Speedo. There was a cal events, where I was two Christstreet performer playing the piano. There mases ago. I blame this partly on were teenagers from the suburbs, grown genetics (my dad is famously forgetful) and men from Dallas, a shirtless Jamaican on partly on the drugs I experimented with in a skateboard, a painter lugging his supcollege, some of which I remember. plies, an activist shouting to be heard, and a But I haven’t forgotten the first time I handsome man who seemed like trouble. (I visited Provincetown. I was a 27-year-old would come to learn that my instincts were Californian who had recently relocated to correct: He was running away from many Boston, a city I found beautiful but not as things, including quite possibly the authorinteresting as San Francisco, ities. People come to P-town the once-quirky place where to lose themselves and to find I FELL IN LOVE I grew up. A few months into themselves.) WITH THE PLACE my new New England life, I fell in love with ProvIMMEDIATELY.... I was told by gays, writers, incetown immediately, and I P-TOWN IS and an opinioned grandhave spent part or all of every ADDICTIVE; IT mother from South Boston summer there since. I have that I must visit a place called also braved the town in FebBEAR-HUGS YOU P-town, at the tip of a place ruary, when it feels so desolate AND DARES YOU TO called Cape Cod. Norman that even the proudest introTRY SUMMER Mailer also recommended verts sometimes wander the SOMEWHERE ELSE. it. “There could be no other streets in search of a party town like it,” he wrote. that isn’t happening. P-town I arrived by boat in July (as one does), is addictive; it bear-hugs you and dares and after a short walk along a pier I found you to try summer somewhere else. It has myself on Commercial Street, the town’s many appeals, of course, but I spend a good main drag, where a seemingly unusual portion of each day there watching people. but actually quite common P-town sumPartly this is because I’m a writer who fanmer scene played out before me. There cies himself a sociologist, and partly this is was John Waters on a bicycle. There was a because I’m a gay man who fancies handdrag queen with terrific posture laughing some men. about something with a family from Ohio. But mostly it’s because I have found no There was a tank top–wearing young man better place to people-watch in New Engon a moped stopping (too abruptly!) to land. Though P-town has changed some flirt with tank top–wearing young men in the past decade (like so many unconon a balcony. There were townies just tryventional places, it’s been altered by coning to get to the post office. There was a ventional people with money), it remains middle-aged lesbian couple talking to their a magical summer escape, a summer camp dog. There was an older man (in his 50s) for seemingly disparate adults who gather and a younger man (in his 20s) walking each season, like clockwork, in the greatest together and smiling, and I couldn’t be beach town on earth. sure if they were lovers or father and son. —Benoit Denizet-Lewis

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22 THE CAPE CODDER In the beginning there was the Rangoon Ruby, which begat the Bog Fog. Never mind that they were precisely the same: vodka, cranberry, squeeze of lime. Cocktails are fickle like that— they exist for a time, and then someone anoints them with a new name. So, sometime in the 1960s, the drink got yet another name: the Cape Codder. This was in part due to savvy marketing by Ocean Spray, which was looking to encourage cranberry consumption on days that didn’t begin with “thanks” and end with “giving.” But it was also a drink for the times. Vodka was ascendant, and the Cape Codder was a simple and tasty way to mix it. It became a hallowed standard of bars everywhere—especially on Cape Cod, possibly because the drink was as elemental as the Cape, which itself has three key ingredients: sand, sky, and sea. The Ocean Spray website features a Cape Codder recipe that specifies five minutes’ prep time. Can it really take that long to mix three things? Is this a typo? No. It’s just proof that in summer, near the beach, with drink in hand, time slows down. —Wayne Curtis

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YOU’LL NEVER RUN OUT OF GREAT PLACES TO EAT

From avant-garde farm-to-table dining in Falmouth to chic seaside bistros in P-town, from clam shacks to artisan ice cream shops, the Cape has a flavor for every vacation. For a tour of Yankee senior editor Amy Traverso’s favorite food destinations on the Cape, go to newengland.com/ cape-dining-guide

THEY’RE HAPPY TO SCHOOL YOU ON SHARKS

As the only site in the North Atlantic where great white sharks reliably gather, Cape Cod has long known the importance of understanding these fearsome and fascinating summer visitors. A leader in separating fact from fiction is the Atlantic White Shark Conservancy, which not only conducts research but also works for public safety and education. Stop in at its Chatham Shark Center to take a virtual-reality swim with sharks, snap a selfie in a diving cage, and support the conservancy’s mission with a one-of-a-kind souvenir from its gift shop. (Our pick? The drink cozy that reads “You’re Going to Need a Bigger Beer.”) atlanticwhiteshark.org PJ’S FAMILY RESTAURANT, WELLFLEET

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27. All Dogs Go to Heaven in Provincetown

MARK FLEMING (FOOD, MINI GOLF )

PIRATE’S COVE ADVENTURE GOLF, SOUTH YARMOUTH

25. Ah, Those Links to Childhood

an ear. And the magical moment when the ball disappears into a hole with a single stroke? A giddy joy that never gets old.

Looking much the same today as it did in the 1950s or ’60s—or will do, years into the future—a summer day at a mini golf course is part sport, part performance art, as players of all ages do battle with kitschy windmills and lighthouses. Cape Cod is mini golf central, offering over a dozen courses that differ wildly in theme and scope. But at each, the heart of the game remains: children clutching little clubs, parents holding scorecards with a stubby pencil tucked behind

26. Museums That Put the Odd in Cape Cod Though generally not known for the outlandish, the Cape does have a few worthy oddities among its attractions. The Cahoon Museum of American Art, a seemingly run-of-the-mill farmhouse in Cotuit, is filled with whimsical paintings by the late neoprimitive artists Martha and

Ralph Cahoon (think: mermaids on a Ferris wheel). Yarmouth Port’s Edward Gorey House, where the famed artist with the Gothic sense of humor lived until he died in 2000, bursts at the seams with his quirky illustrations. And last but not least, the Susan Baker Memorial Museum in North Truro is the entertaining creation of a noted local humorist-painter who decided not to wait until her death for a museum of her own. cahoonmuseum.org; edwardgoreyhouse.org; Facebook

Three reasons P-town is one of the nation’s most dog-friendly towns: 1) Dogs can go off-leash on town beaches mornings and evenings through the summer and fall, then all day long in the off-season. 2) The Pilgrim Bark Park invites dog play amid a backdrop of locally created sculptures. 3) July 2020 sees the return of the popular Paw Palooza festival, which includes a “radar run” to answer your burning question: Just how fast does my dog run when chasing a tennis ball?

28. It’s Deep-Fried Nirvana

29. This Supremely Snackable Tour

30. Dinners You Can Really Dig

Clams, scallops, French fries, onion rings— guilt-free if you’re on vacation, fried food just tastes better outdoors. You can’t go wrong with a classic roadside shack like PJ’s in Wellfleet, but if you want to up the ante with a water view, try the Barnacle by Craigville Beach, Sesuit Harbor Café in Dennis, or Osterville Fish, Too, overlooking the salt marsh by Barnstable Harbor.

When backseat munchkins beg for bags of chips, you can give them something better: a whole factory filled with dancing potato slices. Monday through Friday year-round, self-guided tours of the Cape Cod Potato Chips factory in Hyannis demystify the process that transforms potatoes into all-natural, crunchable delights before they hip-hop along conveyor belts and into bags. Best of all for families on a budget, tours and samples are free. capecodchips.com

Grab that clam rake and bucket: Many Cape towns offer both temporary and seasonal shellfishing licenses, meaning you can treasure-hunt for mussels, oysters, scallops, and clams. Properly refrigerated, most will keep a few days—but we bet you won’t want to wait that long.

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31. SCIENCE IS HAPPENING!

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Although Woods Hole boasts one of the nation’s most photographed lighthouses (Nobska), its true wonder is the scores of scientists who come here to further our understanding of the ocean and the life it holds. Their work at such places as the Marine Biological Laboratory and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution will help the world make crucial decisions about climate change. Guided tours give a glimpse of the men and women engaged in research that has never been so important. whoi.edu; mbl.edu

32. HANGING AT THE DRIVE-IN Having first flickered to life in 1957, the Wellfleet Drive-in Theatre is a time capsule, yes, but still very much an essential part of summer. Finding the right parking spot is an art form, as is the proper beach chair and picnic setup. People mill around, tossing Frisbees and footballs, and hitting up the concession stand. Then dusk descends, and a community of strangers comes together to watch a very big screen against the night sky. Forget streaming services and multiplexes: The best moviegoing experience on the Cape still happens at the Wellfleet. wellfleetcinemas.com

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Old-School Summer Band Concerts

t’s all about claiming a prime spot for were serving in WWII). While most Friday night concerts by the Chasummer bands tend toward khakis and tham Band. At 5:15—nearly three polo shirts, the Chatham Band dresses up hours before the music starts—we in spiffy blue and gold peaked caps and set our chairs on the rim of the grassy bowl crisp red jackets—a tribute to the Red in Kate Gould Park. Below us is a crazy Men’s Hall, where they were granted free quilt of beach blankets around a traditional rehearsal space in the late 1930s. white bandstand. Nobody’s here, because This most venerable of summer bands after you anchor your blanket or unfold opens with its own theme song: “It’s Band your chairs, you’re all set till Time in Chatham.” Conducshowtime. Time to grab dintor Tom Jahnke, sporting a ner on Main Street. deep blue jacket festooned SUMMER BAND Two hours later, the park with gold buttons—an homCONCERTS WERE is packed with families, age to John Philip Sousa— ONCE THE ULTIMATE strikes up the band. Some and new arrivals are claimIN UNPLUGGED ing their spaces on the far of the regulars sing along. ENTERTAINMENT hillside. We see youngsters There must be a thousand of fencing with light sabers, us here, and there’s an electric IN NEW ENGLAND and girls turning cartwheels TOWNS. ON CAPE COD, energy in the air. When it’s on a strip of unblanketed time for the first marchTHEY STILL ARE. grass. We see teenagers— around, a few hundred conyes, teenagers—unpacking certgoers join the parade. (A their coolers, taking selfies, march-around is exactly what and eating to-go burgers and fries. it sounds like: Holding the hands of any On town commons across New affiliated children, you high-step it around England, summer band concerts were once the bandstand.) Tonight, and every Friday, the ultimate in unplugged entertainment. we can count on two march-arounds, two On Cape Cod, they still are. If the weather dance-arounds, and a bunny hop. The proholds, you can see six town bands—Hargram changes weekly—everything from wich, Barnstable, Sandwich, Brewster, Mary Poppins to Bruno Mars. But wait, Chatham, and Falmouth—in just eight here’s a remarkable debut: “My Shot” from days. You’ll hear marches, Broadway Hamilton, featuring rapper J.P. Sousa, aka showstoppers, pop tunes, classical hits, Tom Jahnke. and big band spectaculars. All outdoors, The Chatham Band closes every conaccompanied by the setting sun, under the cert with “The Star-Spangled Banner.” gaze of gliding great gulls. Many musiBut just before the patriotic finale, Jahnke cians, all volunteers, play in more than one thanks everyone for coming. “That feelband, and within each ensemble you’ll ing you are feeling now is Chatham Band find musical families: couples, kids, parlove,” he says, suggesting we hold on to it ents, grandparents. all week. Will it last that long? I’m not sure. In Chatham, the crowds have been But rising for the national anthem, I know coming since the summer of 1932 (with a this: To feel the love, you have to show up few years off, when many band members early. —Kate Whouley NEWENGLAND.COM

ALEX GAGNE

REASONS WHY WE LOVE

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KARL FEHRLE

SALLY DAVOL

FRANK TOPPA

JEREMY CADRIN

JULIAN PETRALIA

MOLLY DAVOL

BRUCE ANDERSON

STEPHEN DAVOL

IRIS LEIGH

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REASONS WHY WE LOVE

Tours That Make

A BIG SPLASH Six miles out to sea from Provincetown lies Stellwagen Bank National Marine Sanctuary, a massive nutrient-rich mesa that offers a smorgasbord for humpbacks, finbacks, and minkes. From spring to fall you can see these gentle giants up close on a whale-watch tour departing from Nantucket, Hyannis, or P-town (home to Dolphin Fleet Whale Watches, which lays claim to being the originator of East Coast whale watching).

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35 36. The Private Garden That’s an Eden for Everyone

From the pounding drums of the Mashpee Wampanoag Powwow (July 5–7) to the pounding feet of the Falmouth Road Race (August 18), from the floral delights of the Cape Cod Hydrangea Festival (July 12–21) to the aural delights of Pops by the Sea (August 11), the Cape summer is chock-full of can’t-miss events. See our full list of 2019 calendar highlights: newengland.com/ cape-events-2019

Worthy gardens dot the Cape, including the granddaddy 100-acre Heritage Museums & Gardens in Sandwich, but Spohr Gardens in Woods Hole is an unparalleled waterfront oasis that feels like a hidden treasure. Thanks to benefactors Charles and Margaret Spohr, this spectacular six-acre private garden is yours to wander, free. More than 100,000 daffodils bloom in spring, followed by lilies, azaleas, magnolias, and hydrangeas. Heading down to the iris garden by the water, you’ll share the wide paths with geese and ducks. spohrgardens.org

37. Cruising the Dunes

THERE’S ALWAYS SOMETHING TO DO

What Art Costa launched more than seven decades ago with a 1936 Ford Woody, son Rob still runs today (albeit with modern SUVs) as the only company permitted to give driving tours of the Cape Cod National Seashore. Based in Provincetown, Art’s Dune Tours offers a variety of outings with guides who are steeped in local history and ecology. Put another way: You’ll get your Instagram photos, but you’ll also come to appreciate what inspired Art Costa so many years ago. artsdunetours.com

38. Pirates! Wrecked off Cape Cod in 1717 while carrying treasure from 50 plundered ships, the Whydah Gally was discovered in 1984 by underwater adventurer and Provincetown resident Barry Clifford. And at the Whydah Pirate Museum in West Yarmouth, you can see the booty! Coins, cannons, handmade weapons, and even a leg bone are part of a fascinating collection drawn from the more than 200,000 artifacts Clifford and his team have recovered. And if you’re really into the undersea-adventure angle, check out the Expedition Whydah Sea Lab and Learning Center in P-town, which serves as the headquarters for the ongoing exploration. discoverpirates.com

YOU CAN REALLY GET YOUR LICKS IN

Choosing a favorite homemade ice cream on Cape Cod is like choosing a favorite child. That said, here are three to get you started on finding that superlative summer scoop: Sundae School Ice Cream in Dennis Port, an old-fashioned parlor with a marble soda fountain, doles out ginormous portions of coffee-based Bass River Mud, among other

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delicacies. At Four Seas Ice Cream, at Centerville’s Four Corners, family-owned since 1934, make a beeline for the coconut, mint chip, or fresh strawberry. And Twin Acres Ice Cream, set in a little oak grove in Sandwich, dishes up banana boats, hot fudge sundaes, and scoops of such perennial favorites as blueberry parfait and pumpkin.

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REASONS WHY WE LOVE

Catching the Action on a Field of Dreams s twilight descends, the glow of stadium lights marks the fields where teams from 10 towns play in the Cape Cod Baseball League, the country’s elite summer league for college players. They are the chosen ones, the best of the best, each athlete on the cusp of a dream to one day play under the lights at a major league park. And the drama is real: More than 300 current and former MLB players spent at least one summer on the Cape, including Hall of Famers Jeff Bagwell

MAY | JUNE 2019

and Carlton Fisk and current Red Sox stars Chris Sale, Jackie Bradley Jr., and last year’s World Series MVP, Steven Pearce. The games are free, and you may even end up sitting beside a scout whose judgment could determine a young man’s future. The players know each game is an audition, and you are close enough to see the dream play out on their faces. Best for families: Each team holds youth clinics throughout the summer where youngsters can begin their own dream. capecodbaseball.org

EVERY DAY THERE’S A BOAT PARADE

Hanging by the canal, checking out marine traffic? Yup. It’s a thing. On an average summer day, between 200 and 300 boats will pass through the Cape Cod Canal—from a 20-foot skiff to a cargo carrier. You’ll see tugboats, barges, fishing vessels, and pleasure yachts. Cruise ships, too. They usually pass through at night, when they’re all lit up. The paved pathways that run along both sides of the canal are wheelchair-, stroller-, bicycle-, and pedestrian-friendly.

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REASONS WHY WE LOVE

You can count on the typical Martha’s Vineyard garden—pink roses, blue hydrangeas, white picket fences—to delight the eye. To feed the soul, though, spend an afternoon in the very untypical garden of Mytoi, a Japanese-style gem on Chappaquiddick. Nearly destroyed by a 1991 hurricane, this 14-acre landscape of intimate gardens, winding paths, and hidden nooks was rejuvenated by the Trustees of Reservations (which also owns the nearby Cape Poge Wildlife Refuge and the nature reserve Wasque, two oases in their own right). thetrustees.org

43. We Can’t Tear Ourselves Away from Oak Bluffs From beaches and boutiques to historic houses and a classic carousel, the town of Oak Bluffs has an almost ridiculously long list of things to keep visitors occupied. Just steps from the ferry is Inkwell Beach, perfect for those looking to jump right into a day of sunbathing; beach ramblers, meanwhile, can head down the road to the two-mile-long Joseph Sylvia State Beach. At the foot of the main thoroughfare, 86 |

Circuit Avenue, is the oldest platform carousel in America, the Flying Horses Carousel (kids will delight in the chance to grab at an honest-to-goodness brass ring). After browsing the shops lining the avenue—and maybe indulging in a scoop of Mad Martha’s ice cream—it’s off to the Oak Bluffs Campground, a neighborhood of wee 19th-century cottages painted in all colors of the rainbow. Lush greenery and the shade of a gazebo await at Ocean Park, an ideal spot for a walk, a game of Frisbee, or a picnic lunch. And for those who inevitably while away the entire day in Oak Bluffs, the delicious aroma of gourmet pastries will lead the way to Back Door Donuts, a landmark bakery whose “back door” opens from 7 p.m. to 1 a.m.

best enjoyed right on the beach, before one of the grandest sunset views on the East Coast.

44. Seafood and Sunsets in Menemsha

Martha’s Vineyard has more lighthouses (five), in more diverse styles, in close proximity than anywhere else in the country. And for good reason: The island has long been known for treacherous tides, rocky shores, sandy shoals, and the underwater reefs dubbed the Devil’s Bridge, off Aquinnah, where the steamship City of Columbus was wrecked in January 1884. Vineyard lighthouses stretch from sunrise (Cape Poge, on Chappaquiddick’s northeast point) to sunset (Gay Head on the southwest), and you can visit all but one (West Chop). Little-

Generations of local fishermen have peddled their briny wares on the docks of this village, which remains seafood central on the Vineyard. From the landmark fish markets Larsen’s and Menemsha, the classic shack Menemsha Galley, or the Home Port Back Door, you can procure a takeout banquet of steamers, fried clams, lobsters, and more—a bounty that is

45. This Beach Makes You Work for It A narrow, bumpy dirt road is the only way in or out, and parking is scarce. Who cares? You were smart enough to walk or bike the mile from Vineyard Haven to Lake Tashmoo Town Beach, which borders both a 270-acre coastal pond and the ocean. It’s great for swimming, sunbathing, surfcasting … but not for multitudes.

46. It’s a Beacon for Lighthouse Lovers

known fact: There’s actually a sixth lighthouse, in a manner of speaking. The original 1854 Fresnel lens used in Gay Head Light is now at the Martha’s Vineyard Museum’s new home in Vineyard Haven, where it stands sentinel—in spirit, anyway—over Lagoon Pond.

47. Reel Earnings Yes, the Martha’s Vineyard Striped Bass and Bluefish Derby draws anglers from all around the world in September. But bluefish start running in May, and you can catch a good striper during most of the summer. You could try asking a local for the best place to catch a fish, but they probably won’t tell you—so just know that with 100-plus miles of shoreline to choose from, casting from nearly any spot is a good bet.

48. Island Flavors from Island Farms For an island with such coveted real estate, the Vineyard retains an impressive cache of agricultural land, thanks to forward-thinking groups like the Martha’s Vineyard Land Bank. There are about three dozen produce farms, cheese makers, a mushroom farm, and even pastured cattle. Find a range

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42. Serenity Now

Martha’s Vineyard

of home-grown treasures at such places as the superlative farm stand at Edgartown’s Morning Glory Farm, the small but mighty Larder in Vineyard Haven, and the must-visit West Tisbury Farmers’ Market. Or stop by any number of self-serve farm stands, like the Grey Barn and Farm, an award-winning cheese operation in Chilmark, or West Tisbury’s Blackwater Farm, where kids can pet the animals.

taste of this tradition, act now: At the end of this year the beloved up-island confectionary will close for good, making its Vineyardinspired handmade treats—like Chappy Chewies, Squibnuggets, and Tashmoo Truffles—nothing but sweet memories. Facebook

49. The Everything-toEveryone Store

Unlike the busy party circuit of that other East Coast summer getaway for A-listers, the Hamptons, Martha’s Vineyard gives celebrities a break from velvet ropes and flashing cameras. Aside from the occasional splashy event—island regular Spike Lee previewed BlacKkKlansman at the Strand Theatre last year, for instance—the stars who come here mostly embrace the laid-back roles of small-town residents. (Of course, the Secret Service detail is a dead giveaway for the most famous visitors of recent years, the Obamas.) A sampler of some of the famous folks going about their days here: Meg Ryan at the dog show at the Martha’s Vineyard Agricultural Society Fair … Bill Murray having lunch in the parking lot at the Menemsha town beach … Mary Steenburgen and Ted Danson at the Martha’s Vineyard Playhouse …

Since opening its doors in 1858, Alley’s General Store in West Tisbury has been the central meeting point for natives, tourists, and wash-ashores who need a gallon of milk, penny candy, pet shampoo, the latest Vineyard souvenir T-shirt, or a large coffee and some valuable porch time in one of the store’s rockers. Facebook

50. Last Call Never Tasted So Sweet For more than three decades, candy lovers have journeyed to Chilmark Chocolates like pilgrims to the Holy Land. Only the shop’s offbeat hours (closed in August?) could leave them disappointed. But if you want a

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Larry David at 7a Foods in West Tisbury (where he’s been known to order the Liz Lemon sandwich) … David McCullough at the West Tisbury Free Public Library … Peter Farrelly at Offshore Ale Co. in Oak Bluffs … Skip Gates

pedaling his three-wheeled bike on the path along Beach Road … Seth Meyers on the porch at the Chilmark General Store … Caroline Kennedy and Carly Simon at the West Tisbury Farmers’ Market.

51. You Never Know Who You’ll Run Into

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Nantucket

In a welcome contrast to most of New England’s ocean communities, virtually all of Nantucket’s 110-mile coastline is free and open to the public— including 80 miles of some of the world’s most beautiful beaches.

53. Big Sails Of all the celebrities summering on Nantucket, none are as welcoming to paparazzi as the tall ship Lynx, a handsome replica of a topsail schooner that sailed as a privateer during the War of 1812. Snap a photo as it glides through Nantucket Harbor in July and August—or better yet, climb aboard for a trip back into maritime history. eganmaritime.org/tall-ship-lynx

54. Nantucket Reds You can be on a dude ranch in Wyoming and step out in your favorite faded red-to-pink trousers, and immediately everyone knows where you’ve been—and a little something about who you are. The island’s signature clothing line began in the 1960s not long after Philip C. Murray took over his father’s Main Street clothing shop. Today, Murray’s Toggery Shop remains the only place on the world that’s 88 |

legally allowed to claim it sells authentic Nantucket Reds attire. nantucketreds.com

55. The Ultimate Summer Beer Garden There’s a party every day at Cisco Brewers, located in the small agricultural “heartland” southwest of town. Starting at 11 a.m. (noon on Sunday), visitors can grab a seat in the breezy courtyard, enjoy house-made beer, wine, or spirits, and find a nosh among a rotating lineup of food trucks (we love Raw Bar Yoho’s oysters and bluefish pâté). Live music starts at 3, then the whole thing wraps up ... until the next day. ciscobrewers.com

56. Local Lore Is a Whale of a Tale For the better part of a century, Nantucket was the world’s whaling capital. The dangerous

but lucrative industry made it one of the wealthiest communities in America and left every captain’s house, lighthouse, and harbor with a tale worth telling. Learn even a few of them at the Nantucket History Association’s Whaling Museum, and your sense of the island will be transformed. nha.org

57. This Island’s Made for Biking On Nantucket, cycling routes fan out from downtown in every direction. To Madaket. To Surfside Beach. To Wauwinet. Of the 30-odd miles of paved paths here, the longest (and arguably most scenic) is an 18-mile roundtrip that begins downtown and heads east, parallel to Polpis Road, to the sea. Bring your bike or rent from a number of local outfitters—most notably Young’s Bicycle Shop, overseen by thirdgeneration owner Harvey Young just steps from the ferry landing. youngsbicycleshop.com

58. Dream Weavings Want a souvenir that skews a bit more heirloom than an “ACK” sticker? Nantucket’s signature lightship baskets, first made by crews on the island’s 19th-century floating beacons, are still available today from local artisans (a good place to start: Four Winds Craft Guild). Another onlyon-Nantucket find: ultrafine throws and blankets handwoven at Nantucket Looms since 1968. fourwindscraftguild.com; nantucketlooms.com

59. Breakfast We’ll Gladly Get Out of Bed For Given the homemade doughnuts at the Downyflake, comfort-food classics at Black-Eyed Susan’s, and budget bites at the old-school Nantucket Pharmacy lunch counter—you may be on vacation, but you definitely won’t want to sleep in. thedownyflake.com; black-eyedsusans.com; Facebook

HOT DATES GALORE Nantucket may be laid-back, but its outsize slate of special events means it’s anything but sleepy. Among the standouts are the Nantucket Book Festival (June 14–16), whose featured authors include Susan Orlean; the Nantucket Film Festival (June 19–June 24); and the Nantucket Comedy Festival (July 11–13). Martha’s Vineyard has plenty of high-profile celebrations, too, such as the magical Grand Illumination night (August 14). See a full list of the islands’ summer highlights: newengland.com/islands-events-2019

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52. No Lines in the Sand

REASONS WHY WE LOVE

The Prettiest

I S L A N D WA L K Beginning in the picturesque fishing village of Siasconset and ending at the Sankaty Head Light, the mile-long ’Sconset Bluff Walk offers up different identities. Here, you’re on a narrow village road. Next, you’re cutting through scrubby forest. Now, you’re strolling across the manicured backyards of tony seaside estates. There are beach roses and birds, hydrangeas, and, of course, stunning views of an endless Atlantic.

REASONS WHY WE LOVE

62. LODGING THAT’S WORTH CHECKING IN TO A sampler of Cape and Islands overnights from our Best of New England* archives. Family-Friendly

Wequassett Resort & Golf Club, Harwich A pirate-ship playground, oldschool ice cream truck, and activity-packed Children’s Center (scavenger hunts, movie nights)— what’s not to love? wequassett.com

Walk to Everything

Worth a Splurge

On the Water

Salt House Inn, Provincetown

Chatham Bars Inn, Chatham

Inn on the Sound, Falmouth

A leafy side street two blocks off P-town’s main drag is home to this 15-room inn that exudes beachcottage chic. salthouseinn.com

A private beach and a secluded spa add to the feeling of exclusivity at this venerable (c. 1914) beachside resort that sprawls over 25 acres. chathambarsinn.com

Just steps away from Falmouth Heights Beach, you’ll find 11 comfortably elegant rooms offering panoramas of Nantucket Sound. innonthesound.com

This upscale collection of rooms, suites, and cottages on four prime sandy acres is Nantucket’s purest “on the beach” experience. cliffsidebeach.com

With five swimming pools, biking on the Cape Cod Rail Trail, and the Cape’s only Nicklaus Design golf course, this is what “something for everyone” looks like. oceanedge.com

76 Main, Nantucket The island’s only boutique hotel set directly on Main Street is a former sea captain’s home replete with 21st-century style and amenities. 76main.com

Belfry Inn & Bistro, Sandwich Winnetu, Edgartown Antique fire truck rides and an oversize outdoor chess set? Fun. The “family beach survival kit” with towels, a kite, sand castle supplies, and more? Genius. winnetu.com

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A Victorian painted lady, a Federal-style home, and a 1902 church make up this unique B&B complex in the heart of the Cape’s oldest town. belfryinn.com

The Charlotte Inn, Edgartown Gilded mirrors, pastoral oil paintings, and elegant English antiques set the tone at the only Relais & Châteaux hotel located on Martha’s Vineyard. thecharlotteinn.com

Wauwinet, Nantucket Pampering is a foregone conclusion at this elite retreat, where the staff-to-guest ratio is nearly 3 to 1. wauwinet.com

The Lighthouse Inn, West Dennis Nine acres on Nantucket Sound plus a private pocket beach and an “Old Cape Cod” vibe have made this a classic for 80 years. lighthouseinn.com

*To see this year’s Best of New England winners for Massachusetts, including the Cape and Islands, see p. 110.

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MARK FLEMING (LIGHTHOUSE); ROSEMARY TUFANK JIAN PHOTOGR APHY (WINNETU); ALL OTHERS COURTESY OF MANAGEMENT

Cliffside Beach Club, Nantucket Ocean Edge Resort, Brewster

Race Point Beach

AT S U N S E T

There’s an unmatched quality to the light in the Cape and Islands, a special glow where sea meets the sky. But when daylight recedes, the real drama begins. Before sunset at Race Point Beach in Provincetown, people arrive with blankets, and those with permits stoke bonfires. As the sun sinks into the sea, the sky flames red and orange; on the beach, embers leap skyward. Soon darkness settles in. The sky fills with stars. A perfect summer day comes to an end.

t was in the middle of Big Averill Lake, a cold, clean body of water located in the eastern tip of Vermont’s Northeast Kingdom, that my 7-year-old son, Calvin, began lamenting our departure. We’d idled away the past five days amid exquisite summertime weather at Quimby Country, a family resort in the tiny town of Averill (population 24). We’d hiked, paddled, ridden our bikes, played tennis, battled at Ping-Pong, sat by campfires, and even managed to win at bingo. Calvin had made friends with a couple of other boys his age, and together they roamed around with a casual freedom that seemed lifted from some kind of idealized version of a child’s summer. They’d hunted for crayfish, gorged on s’mores, navigated shoreline rocks under an evening sky, and slept out under the stars. There had been impromptu soccer games, archery lessons, and bike races. “I wish we didn’t have to leave,” Calvin said, dipping a hand in the water. I wasn’t sure how to respond, because frankly, I didn’t want to either. QQQ EVEN BY NORTHEAST K INGDOM STANDAR DS ,

At Quimby Country, the rhythms of outdoor life make it easy for new guests to form friendships with those who’ve been coming to the resort for most of their lives. Here, the author’s son, Calvin, negotiates a raft docking for his kayak.

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Quimby is remote. Averill, after all, is not a place you stumble upon. Up and up you go, past St. Johnsbury and Burke, practically scraping the Canadian border, before you arrive. Quimby land extends more than 1,000 acres and includes two lakes. It practically is Averill. In addition to all those woods and waters, Quimby Country includes a lodge, a clubhouse, and 19 lakefront cottages. You’re in the back-

woods but in cottages with kitchens, full baths, and wood stoves. They extend like a ribbon from the main building, where guests gather for three big meals a day and a lot of porch-time reading in between. Staffers serve the meals; cleaning crews turn over the cottages each morning. Ever ything’s rustic but not uncomfortable—and at times it can even feel a little sophisticated. It’s like one-stop vacationing. There are bikes and boats to use, counselor-led biking and fishing sessions for kids, and evening games for everyone. I fired up my car only once, and that was because I’d forgotten to bring enough saline solution for my contacts. In some ways, the rhythm of our days was not that different from that of guests who had been coming here for generations. The story of Quimby Country begins in 1893, when Charles Quimby, a local hardware store owner, took on half-ownership of the property in lieu of payment for the materials used to build it. Cold Spring House, as it was then known, catered to anglers and hunters from around New England, the earliest of whom slept in platform tents. Just getting there was an ordeal: a long train ride, then a horse-and-buggy NEWENGLAND.COM

escort. The journey’s length no doubt explains why visitors often stayed a month or two. In 1904, Charles Quimby bought out his partner, built the f irst nine cottages, and changed the name to Cold Spring Camp. But the big change came when Quimby’s 29-yearold daughter, Hortense, inherited the property 15 years later and set forth a vision for the place that far exceeded anything her father ever imagined. Hortense transformed the camp from a retreat for men who wanted a respite from indoor life into a new kind of vacation for a growing class of Americans with more leisure time. She built more cottages, added horse stables, constructed a clay tennis court, and hired staff to manage children’s activities. For weary city folks who wanted a shot of true Vermont, there was no better place. Over the next halfcentury, Hortense was the face of what became known as Quimby Country. She was a forceful, MAY | JUNE 2019

confident woman who knew how to push her ideas through even when others weren’t ready to accept them. She was a conservationist long before that ethos was in vogue, and a successful businesswoman at a time when there was little tolerance for that kind of thing. “She built the place up all alone … without the help or encouragement of anyone,” wrote Robert Pike in his 1959 classic, Spiked Boots, which chronicled life in the North Woods. “It must have near broke her heart more than once, but the tougher the sledding, the harder she pulled. She never quit.” The loyalty she inspired was evidenced by what came next. When illness and age prevented Hortense from managing the camp any longer, she sold it in 1965 to a group of longtime guests. Over the next 50 years, they

Quimby Country has Forest Lake on its doorstep, Big Averill Lake in its backyard, and a setting of mostly wild and wooded land—more than 1,000 acres all told. The camp has been a fixture of Vermont’s Northeast Kingdom since being founded as a sportsman’s retreat in 1893 by hardware store owner Charles Quimby.

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Adaptations of folkdräkt—Swedish folk costumes that represent where one’s family hails from—lend color to the Midsommar festivities. Here, Suvi, left, and Ziva Peterson wear outfits made by their mother, Kristi.

swedish culture comes alive in maine’s north country. BY K AT Y K E L L E H E R • P H OTO G R A P H S BY G R E TA R Y B U S

TYPOGRAPHY BY MCCANDLISS & CAMPBELL

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N A FIELD ENCIRCLED BY TALL PINES, a group of volunteers are spread out and hunched down, backs bent in labor, sun beating down on necks. The air thrums with pollinators. We’re not collecting ingredients for food or objects for sale—we’re here to pick flowers. As I work, I hear an engine spark to life, and an old blue truck begins making its way across the grass toward the bumpy country road. The bed is filled with buckets of lupines. If you were to bury your head in one of them, you’d be submerged in a cloud of honey scent, intoxicating and light as a summer breeze. It’s late June and the sun won’t set for hours, but I’m already tired. I arrived in Aroostook County late last night after spending six hours cruising up I-95 and down country roads. Situated at the height of Maine, Aroostook is a far-flung destination, more than 300 miles distant from Portland. I’m here for the Midsommar Festival, a three-day event that takes place annually in the tiny villages of Stockholm and New Sweden. Midsommar is a holiday with deep roots in Europe. People have been gathering flowers and lighting bonfires to mark the summer solstice since the sixth century, but it wasn’t until the Victorian era that Midsommar became a particularly Swedish event. While modern Midsommar festivals in Sweden have evolved with the times (many of them now include alcohol and contemporary music), the festival at the Maine Swedish Colony, an area that includes New Sweden and Stockholm, has remained staunchly—and rather charmingly—traditional. “The settlers came from Sweden in 1870, and we’ve never really changed how we celebrated,” explains festival cochair Brenda Näsberg Jepson. “To modern-day Swedes, our Midsommar seems quaint and old-fashioned.” This steadfast adherence to form is exactly why visitors come from all over the world to take part in this solstice celebration. There is something transformative about the event (Jepson says it’s like “walking into a time warp,” and I’m inclined to agree). Although there are only some 800 attendees, this is a large turnout for a town with only 610 residents. Here’s how it unfolds: On Friday, children and local adults come together to gather flowers and prepare the food. That evening, everyone descends on the American Legion hall in Stockholm to enjoy a feast of Swedish meatballs, mashed potatoes, lingonberry jam, and sweet pickles. There is live music and cheerful, anticipatory gossip. On Saturday, they gather in traditional dress outside the New Sweden Historical Society Museum to deck the maypole in lupines, watch the Little Folk Dancers twirl and clap around the towering cross covered in blossoms, and participate in such activities as flower crown making and Dala horse painting. Throughout the weekend, there are demonstrations at the forge, games of kubb on the church lawn, and vendors selling food, crafts, and souvenirs to tourists and townsfolk alike. On Sunday, the revelers attend church services at Thomas Park. There is more eating, more dancing, more music. And throughout it all, there is endless talk about heritage, that elusive concept that ties one generation to the next, one group of displaced people back to their homeland. Heritage, I’m 98 |

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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT : A traditional Midsommar flower wreath, or midsommarkrans; a group of Swedish descendants including Lukas Lagasse, left, who is

helping pass folk dancing customs on to the next generation; Suvi Peterson outside the Lindsten Stuga, a log house typical of the early Maine Swedish colonists; a dinner plate starring the most celebrated of Swedish foods, the köttbullar (meatball). OPPOSITE : Alan Jepson and Brenda Näsberg Jepson at their cabin on Madawaska Lake, which is a hub of Maine Swedish Colony activity in the summer.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT : Wearing a traditional red Laplander hat, Sven Bondeson works on the festival’s Majstång (maypole); the bright colors of Ilsah Peterson’s outfit signify a folk costume from the Swedish province of Dalarna; children dancing around the maypole; violinist Stephen Boody, who has been accompanying the New Sweden Little Folk Dancers since the 1990s. OPPOSITE : Sweet rolls like these, made by Brenda Näsberg Jepson and Susie Anderson, are a signature treat not only at Midsommar but also at New Sweden community gatherings year-round.

reminded at Midsommar, is something to celebrate and treasure—not something to protect or hoard. “Everyone is Swedish here.” It’s a phrase I hear time and again as I wander the grounds. I’m not Swedish—I’m Irish and Czech and German, a typical American mutt from Massachusetts—but as I sit in the kitchen of Jepson’s log cabin, the air rich with the yeasty scent of baking kanelbullar and the fresh aroma of pine, I begin to pretend. For the past 24 hours, I’ve been hearing stories of the people who came over from Sweden to form the New Sweden colony in Maine, tales told by their modern descendants. The first settlers were invited by the state of Maine to come, till the rocky soil, plant potatoes and grow them, help fight famine. After Jepson relays her family’s well-worn story to me, she says, “It kind of kills me to see what’s happening now.” Under her crown of braided hair, her face is slightly pained. She’s expressed her worries about whether Midsommar will continue, since there are so few young people involved in the festivities, but this pain is deeper than that. “We’re here because the state of Maine needed immigrants,” she says after a pause. “It needed people to replace those farmers. Now, we still need people. We want kids to go to the school here, and to celebrate with us.” Midsommar is a festival of lightness, flowers, warmth, and food. It’s also a celebration of the natural moveis a feeling,” ment of people. People take a lot of lagasse tells me. “ pride in the stories of how their greatgrandfathers and great-great-grandand comfort and of mothers wound up living in north. understanding and ern Maine, but there’s also a sense of latent worry. Aroostook County is a place that’s dwindling in population, and it has been for years. For these Mainers, immigration isn’t a problem to be solved. It’s a necessity. At the New Sweden Historical Society, Lynn Johnson helps people trace their lineage. A New Sweden native, Johnson now lives in California, but she makes the pilgrimage back to Maine every year to “collect and share information about the community,” she explains. The amateur genealogist has indepth information on more than 6,000 people and has helped track down the Swedish relatives of more than 1,000 Americans. “It’s my obsession,” she says. “I will plan to do it for a half hour, and 13 hours later I haven’t showered or gotten dressed, and I’m still trying to piece together this giant jigsaw puzzle.” The 51 immigrants who first made the arduous journey from Sweden to Maine in the summer of 1870 reproduced, their influence ballooning outward, spreading across the country as Olssons and Nelsons and Larssons and Anderssons married and moved. Johnson seeks to make sense of this human diaspora, figure out what connects this world traveler, that Maine farmer. For Johnson and Jepson, information about your heritage—be it genealogical history or family tales of immigration and struggle—works to help “fill in your gaps,” as Jepson puts it. “It makes you feel whole,” she adds. I hear a similar sentiment from Lukas Lagasse, a University of Maine college student who has single-handedly revived Swedish folk dancing among Aroostook County’s kids. (“I noticed the number of people who knew the steps was dwindling each year,” he says. “I wanted to make sure we remember them.”) For Lagasse, the purpose of Midsommar is less about lupines and cinnamon rolls and more about “feeling connected.” “We have a saying up here,” he tells me. “If you are not Swedish by genealogy, you can be Swedish by association. Swedishness is a feeling. It’s a feeling of community and comfort and understanding and appreciation.” Really, he says, “it’s just about being welcoming.” It’s a big-hearted sentiment, as sweet as lingonberry jam, but coming from Lagasse, a bona fide member of Generation Z, I’m inclined to believe it. Midsommar is a relic from the past, but perhaps it’s also a symbol of our shared future.

“ S we d ish ne ss

I t’s a feeling

c om m u n i t y

ap pr ec ia tion

”

New Sweden’s Midsommar will be held June 21–23. Visit facebook.com/newswedenhistoricalsociety. MAY | JUNE 2019

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G O C E T Hn

TURNS

A CLIMB TO THE SUMMIT OF MOUNT WASHINGTON ABOARD THIS STEAM-POWERED TRAIN IS UNLIKE ANY OTHER RIDE IN AMERICA.

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OK, I’ll say more. At an elevation of 6,288 feet, it’s the apex of New Hampshire’s Presidential Range and the most prominent peak east of the Mississippi. It’s also home to some of the world’s worst weather, a place where surface winds have been clocked at 231 mph and the mercury has plunged to nearly 50 below zero. An indifferent killer, infamous for dispatching novice hikers and veteran alpinists alike, the mountain has been the site of some 150 fatalities since record keeping began in 1849. Even during summer, the environment above the tree line is raw and rugged, beautiful in its wildness, wild in its beauty. But let me say this, too: All aboard! Actually, what I meant to say was Cog. As in the Mount Washington Cog Railway. As in locomotives pushing vintage-style coaches brimming with camera-wielding tourists up an improbable track, essentially a ladder three miles long pinned to the mountain’s western f lank. (The namesake cog gear grips the rungs of the ladder track, which lies between the two rails and, as one historian put it, “won’t let go”). That this unrelenting slope of stunted conifers and stony wastelands is awe-inspiring in the Biblical sense of “dread mixed with admiration or veneration”—that it should, seemingly, have nothing whatsoever to do with a cute little choo-choo train—is the allure and the excitement. Without fail, casual Cog chitchat makes reference to The Little Engine That Could—or perhaps that should be The Little Engine That Still Can and Still Does. The first trip with paying riders (think billowy black dresses and trim suit coats, thin cigarettes lit behind cupped hands, a kind of Victorian panache) was August 14, 1868; after railroad construction finally reached 104 |

the summit, the Cog officially opened to the public on July 3, 1869. With a nod to that very first run, I chose August 14, 2018, for my own personal introduction to a train that runs out from the distant past, crossing 29 presidencies (and counting), its daily chuffing effort interrupted by winter, the occasional world war, and not much else.

ABOVE : Though the tracks were still being built,

in 1868 the railway began its first trial runs with passengers, who rode on a no-frills open platform. PREVIOUS SPREAD : Steam engineer Joe Eggleston at the helm of a c. 1908 coalpowered locomotive dubbed “Waumbek.”

Waiting in line at the Marshfield Base Station ticket counter, inspecting a wall map bristling with thumbtacks left by visitors—Congo, Finland, Uzbekistan, Greenland, New Caledonia, New Jersey—I’m reminded that the Cog is one of the Granite State’s truly iconic attractions (120,000 passengers in 2017 alone). This, in turn, reminds me of my apprehension about being mechanically conveyed, without having to break a sweat or raise a blister, to Mount Washington’s summit. My Presidential Range résumé is varied, featuring knock-you-down gales and untold miles slogged—what some

call “earning it.” Simply put, I’m in love with the bigness of mountains, with the way they make me feel small, and thus I tend to avoid contraptions that reduce the topography’s scale. Then again, denying this particular topographical feature’s rich sightseeing heritage is, arguably, just another form of reductionism. “The Cog railroad was not built for mining, not built for logging—it was built for tourism,” says Peter Crane, curator at the Mount Washington Obser vator y, in the documentary Mount Washington Cog Railway: Climbing to the Clouds. The Cog’s founder, Sylvester Marsh, a New Hampshire farm boy who amassed a fortune inventing machinery that revolutionized the grain-drying industry, wanted to comfortably and safely share with visitors the beauty of his native landscape. Maybe there’s something to be learned by seeing this familiar-tome place from a Cog’s-eye view. And anyway, life’s too short to pass on a party, especially a sesquicentennial. The 9 a.m. “steamer” (one of two throwback steam engines powered by coal amid a fleet of seven biodiesel engines) will be departing soon. The ascent will last about an hour. The descent will last about 45 minutes. All aboard!

have no clue what the sky was doing back in 1868, so let’s imagine the conditions like so: low scudding clouds, intermittent drizzles, the arrow-straight track shooting upward into gray oblivion. With the summit obscured, a mood of mystery prevails, as if the mountain might go and go and go—the lost Everest of the Northeast. I enter the coach and settle in the rear, noting handlebars built (continued on p. 174) NEWENGLAND.COM

COURTESY OF THE NEW HAMPSHIRE HISTORIC AL SOCIET Y

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MY New England

MAINE WINDJAMMER DAYS June 23-29, 2019 | Boothbay, ME Boothbay Harbor Windjammer Days is a celebration of maritime history. From the Grand Gathering of the Windjammer Fleet to pirate duels and ﬁreworks, this week-long festival has something for everyone. There’s a tug-of-war across the harbor, golf tournament, road race, food events, live concerts, kids’ activities, lobster eating contest, codﬁsh relay, and much more! Like parades? Spend the week and catch the Antique Boat Parade, Blessing of the Fishing Fleet, Street Parade, and Lighted Boat Parade. Best of all, many events are free! Join us June 23 through 29, 2019 for the 57th Boothbay Harbor Windjammer Days. BoothbayHarborWindjammerDays.org

NANTUCKET WINE & FOOD FESTIVAL

MARTHA’S VINEYARD FOOD & WINE FESTIVAL

May 15-19, 2019 | Nantucket, MA

October 23-27, 2019 | Martha’s Vineyard, MA

This Nantucket event spotlighting world-class food and wine is sure to leave a lasting impression. The ﬁve-day Nantucket Wine & Food Festival combines gourmet ﬂavor with Cape Cod beauty through tastings, dinners, and seminars. Events include a walk-around Gala and a wine tasting with New York Times chief wine critic Eric Asimov, as well as plenty of downtime for attendees to check out the local and regional vendors in the Culinary Tent.

Don’t miss this quintessential food and wine festival on one of New England’s most beautiful islands. Located on picturesque Martha’s Vineyard, this festival is a fourday celebration of local talent and tradition working alongside globally recognized guest chefs and vintners to create a uniquely delicious experience. MVFoodandWine.com

NantucketWineFestival.com

106 |

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Celebrating the people, destinations, and experiences that make the region and Yankee Magazine so unique. Follow along @YANKEEMAGAZINE #MYNEWENGLAND

CAPE COD HYDR ANGEA FESTIVAL July 12-21, 2019 | Cape Cod, MA The Cape Cod Hydrangea Festival is an annual celebration of the region’s blue, pink, and white signature ﬂowers and everything gardens on Cape Cod! This ten-day festival’s main attractions are the daily tours of private gardens, each designed and maintained by the individual homeowners and carrying a unique charm. Enjoy workshops and lectures by leading international horticulturalists during the third annual Hydrangea University, presented by the Cape Cod Hydrangea Society and Heritage Museums & Gardens. Discover promotions at participating nurseries and home centers or take a class to learn proper hydrangea pruning techniques. Stop in at participating local restaurants along the Hydrangea Festival Cocktail Trail and try hydrangea-inspired cocktails. CapeCodHydrangeaFest.com

PORTLAND WINE WEEK

INDEPENDENCE DAY BEACH BALL AT OCEAN HOUSE

June 17-23, 2019 | Portland, ME

July 5, 2019 | Watch Hill, RI

Portland Wine Week brings pairing events, performances, and more to restaurants all over Maine’s beloved foodie city. If you’re looking to hone your palate and better understand varietals, check out classes and seminars that will have you tasting and pairing wines like a pro. You can also explore new ﬂavors with tastings ranging from fresh Maine oysters to Burger Night.

Celebrate the birth of our nation in style at Ocean House’s ninth annual Independence Day Beach Ball, featuring an incredible buffet-style menu, live music, and dancing with the Atlantic as the backdrop. A traditional New England lobster boil is the star attraction, offering the best of fresh summertime seafood, inspired sides, and innovative barbecue fare. And true to American tradition, the evening’s grand ﬁnale is some colorful ﬁreworks displaying over the Atlantic Ocean.

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MAY | JUNE 2019

| 107

A celebration of sea, farm & vine October 23-27, 2019 • mvfoodandwine.com

2019

SUMMER TRAVEL GUIDE Where to Eat, Stay, and Play

MASSACHUSETTS

110

NEW HAMPSHIRE

126

MAINE

142

VERMONT

152

CONNECTICUT

158

RHODE ISLAND

161

Best of New England

COREY HENDRICKSON

From Greater Boston to the Maine coast to the White Mountains, Yankee’s annual travel guide offers inspiration for the ultimate New England summer getaway.

MAY | JUNE 2019

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BEST OF NEW ENGL AND

MASSACHUSETTS DINING BAKERY, BREAD BERKSHIRE MOUNTAIN BAKERY, HOUSATONIC

Richard Bourdon is a bread celeb, and to miss the sourdough-based loaves he and his team handcraft at this old mill shop while you’re in the Berkshires would be folly. Made in the European tradition in which he was trained, these naturally fermented breads are crusty, tangy, and bubbly. And they’re so well priced, you’ll want to try top-selling variations including cherry pecan, which toasts like a dream, and oh-so-decadent Bread & Chocolate (one-third of each boule’s weight is Belgian dark chocolate). 413-274-3412; berkshiremountainbakery.com BARBECUE THEODORES’ BOOZE, BLUES & BBQ, SPRINGFIELD

Fans of smoky-satisfying Southern barbecue would keep this place feeling 40 years young even without real-deal musicians onstage and local brews like White Lion’s Galaxy IPA on tap. Dunk spicy-crisp crawf ish poppers in honey mustard; slather house-made bourbon barbecue sauce on caveman club–size beef short ribs; try the Super Bad-Ass Sweet Daddy Slap Your Pappy Hot Sauce if you dare. Some folks drive unimaginable miles for brisket, collards, and what may well be the best Key lime pie north of Key West. 413-736-6000 ; theodoresbbq.com BRUNCH CUSHMAN MARKET AND CAFÉ, AMHERST

At this resuscitated 1892 general store, Sundays are what Sundays used to be: relaxed and rejuvenating for the soul. This college town’s talent pool is so vast, different jazz artists set the mood each week. And diners from all demographics hobnob over challah French toast, hobo bowls, and two dozen egg-on-a-roll variations. Don’t miss the shrubs—icy beverages made with vinegared fruit and herb concentrates—which are a delicious taste of colonial New England. 413-549-0100; cushmanmarket.com DINER AGAWAM DINER, ROWLEY

Known for fruit, cream, and angel pies—and also upside-down chicken pies mountaintopped with mashed potatoes—this stainless steel classic built by the Fodero Dining Car Company in 1954 is kept humming by a family whose diner-owning roots run deep in Massachusetts. Bring cash and your biggest appetite: 110 |

MORE ONLINE! Find editors’ picks for the best summer events in Massachusetts at newengland.com/ma-events-2019.

First-rate fried seafood and all-day breakfast favorites such as the homemade hash omelet would tempt you even if the prices weren’t so reasonable. 978-948-7780 FARMERS’ MARKET GREAT BARRINGTON FARMERS’ MARKET, GREAT BARRINGTON

Hosted in makeup pioneer Jane Iredale’s manicured parking lot, this weekly Saturday gathering has unmatched radiance. Location is key: The market’s at the nucleus of a walkable downtown (ExtraSpecialTeas and SoCo Creamery are worthy detours) and commingles premier vendors from both sides of the New York– Massachusetts line. Yes, it’s a place to buy meats, cheeses, breads, and fresh-harvested produce, but it feels more like an outdoor brunch party, with tent seating, live music, locally roasted coffee, and Off the Shelf ’s cheesy, zesty, onion jam–slathered egg sandwiches, which alone are worth the trip. greatbarringtonfarmersmarket.org FRIED CLAMS CLAM BOX OF IPSWICH, IPSWICH

Let’s give Mother Nature her due: The best fried clams begin with uncommonly sweet, grit-free, and delicious Ipswich clams, hand-dug from the mud flats along the Essex River. For more than 80 years, this clam box–shaped shack with a perpetual line out the door has worked a bit of extra magic with its local treasure. Fresh-shucked whole bellies are bathed in evaporated milk, lightly f loured, and—only when ordered— twice fried in a bubbling-hot blend of vegetable and beef oil to emerge crisp, golden, and flavorful. 978-356-9707; clamboxipswich.com GENERAL STORE HARVARD GENERAL STORE, HARVARD

Like general stores of yore, this community hub in drowsy little Harvard multitasks: It’s a breakfast spot, wine shop, burger joint, farmers’ market, gift emporium, vegetarian restaurant, bike shop, and entertainment venue. When a bold sign above the front windows read “Concord General Store” for a few days last fall, the 1850 building was playing its coolest role yet. Look for it late this year when Little Women, starring Emma Watson and Meryl Streep, hits the big screen. 978-430-0062; harvardgeneralstore.com

ICE CREAM GIBBY’S, WORCESTER

Gibson’s Dairy still home-delivers glass bottles of milk, and its big red barn ice cream stand is equally an anomaly. You’ll forget you’re within Worcester city limits as you savor butter pecan scoops loaded with whole pecans while your wide-eyed kids dig into enormous, old-school banana splits. Some 60 dairy-made flavors, perfected over more than 75 years—plus dozens of soft-serve, sherbet, and frozen yogurt options— can be mixed, sprinkled, and sundae-f ied to your specs. Amanda Gibson’s puppet-andcreature-filled art studio across the parking lot is a bonus treat. 508-753-1095; gibsonsdairy.com LOBSTER ROLL QUAHOG REPUBLIC WATERFRONT EATERY, ONSET

There’s a gargantuan amount of fresh-shelled claw and tail in the Monsta Lobsta roll at this indoor-outdoor eatery, ideally sandwiched between Onset Beach and the town band shell. With a side of truff le fries, it’s a meal for two, so don’t flinch at the price. You’re going to want to snap souvenir photos with this beast before you drizzle on drawn butter and devour every morsel. When this outpost closes for the season, you can still slay the King Kong of lobster rolls at the Quahog Republic Dive Bar in Falmouth. 508-295-9300; quahogrepublic.com NEW RESTAURANT REUNION, NORTH GRAFTON

Order a f light, and settle back to sample four brews from the LOL-funny craft-draft menu. It’s obligatory to try one of three anything-butroutine poutines and a warm-from-the-oven Wicked Twisted pretzel, too. The cofounders and the landlord of North Grafton’s own gourmet pretzel bakery have teamed to bring this allages-friendly, rustic-steampunk tavern to life. From here, your meal is off on flights of seasonally inspired comfort-food fancy. Pair innovative favorites such as a maple-brined, whiskeyglazed pork chop with some of New England’s edgiest beers. Generous portion sizing means you can anticipate a reunion with leftovers. 774-293-5501; reuniontap.com

LODGING B&B NOBNOCKET BOUTIQUE INN, VINEYARD HAVEN

In a sequestered, estate-like setting with an up-island feel, yet just a half mile from the ferry

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COME SEA WHAT YOU’VE BEEN MISSING

CAPE COD MARTHA’S VINEYARD

NANTUCKET

If you’re longing for escape, beauty, beaches and fun, then Cape Cod, Martha’s Vineyard and Nantucket welcome you to come see what you are missing. For accommodations, upcoming events and hot deals, visit:

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Stay at one of VRI’s 13 beautiful condominium style resorts

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dock and Vineyard Haven’s hopping Main Street, Simon and Annabelle Hunton strive year-round to convince guests they’re not staying at a B&B. The innkeepers’ personal guidance unravels the mysteries and diversity of Martha’s Vineyard. Ultra-contemporary, Zenlike interiors create the sense you’ve crashed an elite designer’s secret sanctuary. Spend your day wandering the gardens, borrowing bicycles, and exploring the island. You’ll return to your expansive room unwound, refreshed, wiser. 508-696-0859; nobnocket.com CAMPGROUND SHAWME-CROWELL STATE FOREST CAMPGROUND, SANDWICH

Sandy shore and tranquil forest—both sides of Cape Cod can be your playground all week for less than you’d pay for a single night at a family resort. So pack up your kids, the dog, and a tent (or reserve a yurt if you’re new to camping) and enjoy evenings by a campfire at your private site after days of hiking this 700-acre preserve or swimming in relatively warm bay waters. It’s a little-advertised perk that campers here enjoy free access to nearby Scusset Beach. And even more obscure that mushroom foragers love these woods. 508-888-0351; mass.gov ECO-FRIENDLY LODGING INN ON BOLTWOOD, AMHERST

The 90-something Lord Jeffery Inn has a new, culturally sensitive name in 2019, completing a makeover that also earned this Amherst College–owned property a level of green certif ication rare for a historic hotel. Many of this decade’s environmentally attuned updates are invisible to guests: geothermal heating and cooling, energy-recovery ventilation, eff icient plumbing. But one is so obviously cool, you’ll wonder why it’s not in use everywhere. When you exit and take your key, all but the outlets you need to charge devices will automatically power down. 413-256-8200 ; innonboltwood.com HISTORIC VIBE CONCORD’S COLONIAL INN, CONCORD

redjacketresorts.com 112 |

800-CAPECOD 800-227-3263

As you climb the main inn’s stairs to your room or sip spiced rum and cider in the dark woodpaneled Village Forge Tavern, your senses will detect the invisible residue of momentous people and events. The oldest of interconnected inn buildings has overlooked Monument Square since 1716, and at the time of the Battle of Concord it was home to Dr. Minot, who tended to wounded minutemen. Rooms have details that have persisted through myriad renovations: You might walk the original wide-plank pine f loors or dream beneath a hand-hewn post-and-beam ceiling. The choicest suite was once Henry David Thoreau’s residence. 978-369-9200; concordscolonialinn.com MOUNTAIN GETAWAY BRIARCLIFF MOTEL, GREAT BARRINGTON

There are so many efficiencies to staying at this mod, clean, hospitable motel. No fumbling for

NEWENGLAND.COM

MASSACHUSE T TS

keys: Just punch in your room access code. No Yelping for breakfast: A creative spread including homemade granola and locally roasted coffee is included. The woodsy-chic common area is stocked with borrowable games and DVDs. You don’t even have to go hunting for mountain highs. Sit by the fire pit out front and watch the sun dip behind Monument Mountain. If you’d like to climb this manageable hill, the trailhead is right across the street. 413-528-3000; thebriarcliffmotel.com NEW HOTEL MGM SPRINGFIELD, SPRINGFIELD

The name may scream Vegas, but this 250room hotel’s design celebrates its location in New England’s most literary valley. Whimsical light fixtures pay homage to Springfield native Dr. Seuss. Spruce-green walls are graced with story-prompt prints and propped-open books. Hallway carpets woven with Emily Dickinson stanzas make the Amherst-born poet sound like an ahead-of-her-time online reviewer: “How mighty t’was, to stay / A guest in this stupendous place.” Standard rooms are spacious ; suites, including some with private rooftop garden access, are high roller–worthy. And the $960 million resort’s gaming, dining, spa, and entertainment enticements are an elevator ride away. 413-273-5000; mgmspring field.com

PET-FRIENDLY LODGING HAWTHORNE HOTEL, SALEM

WALK-TO-EVERYTHING LODGING HARBOR LIGHT INN, MARBLEHEAD

Would you really visit Salem without your black cat? Of course not. So it’s crucial to know that pets of all stripes are welcome in this landmark 1925 hotel’s lobby and sixth-floor guest rooms. Noisy toys to bat around await arriving cats. Dogs get extra-special treatment, including snacks baked by Salem’s New England Dog Biscuit Company and a room service menu featuring chef-cooked entrées. You’re steps away, too, from dog-friendly outdoor-seating restaurants like the Lobster Shanty and Gulu-Gulu Café. 978-744-4080; hawthornehotel.com

If you were spun dizzy and plopped in Marblehead, you might initially think you’d landed in a European village. Then you would start to walk narrow streets—past sherbet-colored shops and galleries, historic homes, seafood restaurants—and wonder why this now-obviously-New-England town seems so uncrowded. The best discovery? You’re staying at a B&B as romantically authentic as these just-outside-the-door delights. There’s a pub, a pool, an expansive breakfast buffet, so stash your car keys—you won’t need them. 781-6312186; harborlightinn.com

UPDATED INN THE GROTON INN, GROTON

A 2011 f ire left the building unsalvageable and a community bereft of its storied hub: a 1678 hotel whose threshold was crossed by Paul Revere and several presidents. The allnew Groton Inn, which debuted in May 2018, resembles and memorializes its predecessor while exciting travelers with its contemporary, homey rooms; indoor and outdoor social spaces; and high-energy, open-kitchen Forge & Vine restaurant with its eight-foot-long wood grill. Splurge on a Gibbet Hill–view room, and gaze out at serene farmland dotted with Black Angus cows. 978-448-6600; thegrotoninn.com

WATERFRONT LODGING THE LAKE HOUSE GUEST COTTAGES OF THE BERKSHIRES, LANESBOROUGH

At four years old, this collection of cottages still has the cheery smack of newness, and with layouts that sleep six to 14 people, you can rent one or all—including the Lake House Lodge, with its chef ’s kitchen and wraparound porch—by the night or week, then invite your expanded circle to join you. Bring your own boat or Jet Ski, or hop aboard the resort’s water shuttle for a mountainview mini voyage across Pontoosuc Lake to the restaurant at sister property the Proprietor’s Lodge. 413-446-0017; berkshirelakehouse.com

Escape toSoutheastern Massachusetts... Attleboro Area Industrial Museum, Inc.

Destination New Bedford

42 Union St. Attleboro, MA 02703

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508-222-3918 www.industrialmuseum.com

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Greater Attleboro | Greater Fall River | Greater New Bedford | Greater Taunton | Tri-Town

Come and relax on the south coast of Massachusetts. Enjoy a day on one of our many beautiful sandy beaches basking in the sun. Visit historic sights and experience a cultural festival. You can take a ferry to the islands for the day, followed by a romantic dinner & show. Food/ Drink/ Art/ Culture .. we have that. It’s all so close to Boston, and so far from the crowds. We have a place waiting for you by the ocean. photo “Clarks Cove” at sunset • image by badmonkeypics@outlook.com

visitsemass.com • ph: (508) 999-5231 ext 108

Funded in part by the Massachusetts Ofﬁce of Travel & Tourism

MASSACHUSE T TS

ATTRACTIONS BEACH CRANE BEACH, IPSWICH

Once you’re on the ocean side of the texturedgreen dunes, you won’t see cars or many signs of civilization. The rushing sounds, the foam swirls, the four miles of natural sand … they haven’t changed much in 500 years. With dune trails to hike, Crane Outdoor Adventures programming, and the Crane Estate with its Inn at Castle Hill to explore, unplugged never means bored at this beach. 978-356-4351; thetrustees.org BREWERY EXPERIENCE CISCO BREWERS, NANTUCKET

It’s a nonstop party at this dog-and-kid-friendly mini village, where Nantucket’s only craft brewery and its winery and distillery sisters showcase their liquid artistry. Bike the 2.5 miles inland or catch the free seasonal shuttle from downtown, and join locals and tourists who know they’ll f ind live music and the island’s best food trucks here (mmm … Millie’s tacos). Seats at beer hall–style communal tables under the sun are quickly claimed by fans of Cisco’s unique beers, which include Gripah, a grapefruit IPA that drinks easy as a day at the beach. 508-325-5929; ciscobrewers.com

DAY AT THE FARM IOKA VALLEY FARM, HANCOCK

KID-FRIENDLY ATTRACTION EDAVILLE FAMILY THEME PARK, CARVER

The cuteness factor runs high at this seasonally morphing agri-tainment destination. A working dairy from 1936 to 1996, its prescient owners realized that keeping these mountain-view lands in the family required diversif ication. Now, the sugarhouse and breakfast Calf-A lure maple lovers each spring. Barnyard animals, a farm-themed playground, racing rubber ducks, wiggle cars, and hands-on activities keep kids giggling gleefully on summer days … until parents drop the news it’s time to leave. 413-7385915; iokavalleyfarm.com

Sma l l fr y around the world are gaga for Thomas the Tank Engine, so don’t be surprised to hear accents and languages from far away when you visit the home of North America’s largest Thomas-themed attraction. What’s hooked generations on this manageably sized amusement park, though, is its blend of rides and outdoorsy activities: everything from fishing to trekking the Dino Land trail to see lifesize animatronic dinosaurs. Character visits and holiday events add fresh excitement, as will this summer’s debut of a cooling splash pad. 508-866-8190; edaville.com

HISTORICAL EXPERIENCE BOARDING WITH THE BIXBYS AT OLD STURBRIDGE VILLAGE, STURBRIDGE

Were you born in the wrong century? Dress in vintage garb, from bonnet to petticoat or tall hat to trousers; forge a keepsake in the blacksmith shop; slop the pigs; knead dough; mull apple cider with a red-hot poker; roast meat over a roaring fire; swap stories; f lop down on your rope bed for the night; wake early to milk the cows. By the time you smell green coffee beans roasting in a pan, you’ll have your answer. These 19th-century overnights are available on select dates for up to six participants 10 and up. 800-733-1830; osv.org

MINI GOLF PIRATE’S COVE, SOUTH YARMOUTH

No yo-ho-holiday on Cape Cod is complete without a competitive round of putting for family supremacy at this photo op–filled adventure course. There are two 18-hole options—one with ramps, one with stairs—and each takes you deep into a land of shipwrecks, rapscallions, and sharks. Along the way, you can blast water cannons, duck beneath waterfalls, and brush up on your New England pirate lore. The swashbuckling soundtrack will supercharge your appetite for ice cream at the arcade and gift shop o’ pirate bling. 508-394-6200; piratescove.net

Two Islands. Two Hotels. One Memorable Vacation. Stay at Nantucket & Martha’s Vineyard’s Best Resorts.

One of the Top Hotels in the USA & World.

“Best Hotel on Martha’s Vineyard”

2019 TripAdvisor Travelers’ Choice Awards

2019 US News & World Report

Each hotel features upscale accommodations, Children’s Programs, spa services, heated pools, yoga, Tennis Club with pro at the Winnetu, ﬁtness club at The Nantucket & award-winning restaurants

For Reservations: vineyardnantucketresorts.com | 866-335-1133 (Toll-Free, USA only), 508-310-1733 | reservations@winnetu.com “Sea for Yourself” Our Two-Island Adventure Package. Vacation on both Islands, stay at each of our Resorts. We’ll handle all the transportation & transfer logistics for you.

MASSACHUSE T TS

NEW CULTURAL ATTRACTION CAPE COD CHAMBER ORCHESTRA, HARWICH PORT

See a need; fill it. That formula has catapulted many 20-something entrepreneurs to greatness. And yet Matthew Scinto’s 2018 startup seems particularly gutsy. A Cape Cod transplant with a newly minted doctoral degree in conducting, he’s assembled a dynamic young cadre of professional musicians and already forged collaborative inroads with local arts organizations. Concerts at acoustically superb Pilgrim Congregational Church feature rousing reinterpretations of classics and fresh works by a composer-in-residence. You can’t listen without feeling moved and awed by this effort to make chamber music a 21st-century living thing. 508-432-1668; capecodchamberorchestra.org OUTLET STORE MATOUK FACTORY STORE, FALL RIVER

You may know Matouk ’s exquisitely f ine, hand-detailed linens from luxury hotel stays or decor magazines. As this third-generationowned business celebrates 90 years of fashioning dream-quality bedding, towels, robes, and home accessories, gift yourself these status goods without paying luxury prices by going straight to the source. Outside and in, where you can observe whirring looms and artisans

at work through glass walls, this solar-powered factory is astonishingly clean and pretty. Savings of 20 to 60 percent off retail and free-withpurchase incentives soften the cost of softening your world. 508-742-1500; matouk.com QUIRKY MUSEUM FRUITLANDS MUSEUM, HARVARD

Just over a century ago, Clara Endicott Sears began transforming the site of a short-lived Transcendentalist utopia into a museum of eclectic things: Shaker and Native American artifacts, Hudson River School landscapes, middle-class American portraits. You’d have to go to Colonial Williamsburg to see a larger collection of creepy-eyed, folk-art folks. But why would you, when Fruitlands’ buildings are set on 210 trail-looped acres with mesmerizing mountain views right from the cafe? Since inheriting the property in 2016, the Trustees of Reservations has introduced new enticements, from Native American flute-making classes to night hikes. 978-456-3924; fruitlands.thetrustees.org THRILL RIDE THUNDERBOLT MOUNTAIN COASTER AT BERKSHIRE EAST, CHARLEMONT

Don’t let the tranquil motion of the ascent fool you. Once your coaster car’s set loose and gravity is boss, those trees you admired on the

WHERE HISTORY COMES ALIVE!

Outdoor exhibits open 9:00 a.m. - 5:00 p.m. through November 137 Warren Ave Plymouth, MA (508) 746-1622 plimoth.org

1,580-foot climb will blur in a leafy kaleidoscope. Kids as young as 9 can drive, as young as 3 can ride, and hand brakes do allow you to slow down as you dip, twist, corkscrew, and dive. But hurtling down North America’s longest mountain coaster track at what feels like luge-gone-wild speed is easiest on your backside. 413-339-6617; berkshireeast.com

Boston + Cambridge DINING BRUNCH LINCOLN TAVERN, BOSTON

No restaurant works harder to earn your brunch f idelit y than Lincoln Tavern. Not only do they have separate weekday and weekend brunch menus, but there’s also a special “brunch test kitchen” on Fridays where they preview the next batch of addictive additions. The famous Fruity Pebbles pancakes got their start there, as did the short rib poutine and a boozy Cinnamon Toast Crunch milkshake.

WAMPANOAG HOMESITE • 17TH-CENTURY ENGLISH VILLAGE • CRAFT CENTER • WATERFRONT EXHIBIT SHOULD I STAY OR SHOULD I GO? • PLIMOTH GRIST MILL • PLIMOTH BREAD COMPANY

Come for the history, come for the fun...then relax at an ocean harbor inn.

Where will

County

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visit begin?

Paragon Carousel

the Centerpiece of Nantasket Beach for Over Years!

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to Boston

Hull

One of only 150 hand-carved historic carousels left in the U.S. Experience the magic of this treasure, uniting generations. Available for birthdays and special events.

Quincy Scituate

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Plymouth Middleboro to Cape Cod

Funded, in part, by the Massachusetts Office of Travel & Tourism

Middleborough

PLYMOUTH

Harbor views from every room Idyllic seaside village location Indoor heated pool Steps to downtown shops, restaurants, movies, marinas, spas and more View our live webcam of Scituate Harbor anytime!

Perfectly “Scituated” halfway between Boston and Cape Cod

7 Beaver Dam Road Scituate Harbor, MA 02066

877-477-5550

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BOSTON + CAMBRIDGE

The vibe is laid-back and neighborly—just what you want on an easy Sunday morn. 617765-8636; lincolnsouthboston.com FOOD HALL BOW MARKET, SOMERVILLE

The one thing Boston’s restaurant scene lacks most is affordable space for chefs who have limited capital to test new concepts. The Bow Market in Union Square is a fresh solution: a mix of tiny indie restaurants and shops in a converted former storage facility, all arrayed around a centra l cour t yard to encourage browsing and one heckuva food crawl. Start your evening at natural-wine bar Rebel Rebel or Remnant Brewing, nosh on Jaju pierogi or Buenas empanadas or South Shore–style bar pizza from Hot Box. For dessert: Maca macarons and Gâté Comme des Filles chocolates. bowmarketsomerville.com FRIED CLAMS NEPTUNE OYSTER, BOSTON

The difference between great fried clams and merely good ones comes down to three things: the clams, the breading, and the fry. Neptune gets its sweet Ipswich clams from Massachusetts’s famed Great Marsh, considered the Grand Cru tidal flat for bivalves. They’re tossed in a simple seasoned f lour crust and fried until

crisp and golden in fresh Canola oil (you’d be surprised what a difference it makes when someone’s willing to empty out the Frialator on the regular). House-made tartar sauce is the clincher. 617-742-3474; neptuneoyster.com ICE CREAM GRACIE’S, SOMERVILLE

Boston has so many great ice cream shops, from Toscanini’s to Christina’s to Forge to Morano Gelato. But we tip our cap to Gracie’s for its ultracreamy texture and, most important, its sui generis flavor combinations. Perennial favorites like chocolate, salty whiskey, and mint chip are always on offer, but the wild-card f lavors are the kicker: f luffernutterbutter, black sesame and honey, rummy gingersnap, and—wait for it—pickle. 617-764-5294; icecreamgracies.com SPECIAL-OCCASION SPLURGE UNI

You’ll find plenty of small plates at Uni—from pork belly steamed buns to a mushroom katsu roll—that cost $10 or less. But the omakase, or chef ’s choice menu, is an occasion unto itself: 11 courses for $135, or 15 for $195. Chef-partner Tony Messina is working at the top of his game, with a palette of f lavors that pulls together foie gras, tuna, pear, chili, and black walnut in a single inspired sashimi plate.

There are playful moments, too, such as a “steak bomb” steamed bun filled with rib-eye, miso onions, and peppers. When chefs are this good, just let them take the wheel. 617-5367200; uni-boston.com

LODGING BOUTIQUE HOTEL THE KENDALL HOTEL, CAMBRIDGE

At this stately brick hotel housed in a former fire station, you don’t have to choose between Cambridge and Boston: Walk a mile east via the impressively restored Longfellow Bridge, and you’ll be oohing and aahing at Beacon Hill brownstones, or stroll less than two miles west to rub elbow patches with academics in Harvard Yard. But this Kendall Square inn on the National Register of Historic Places also gives you some solid reasons to stay put: namely, the nightly wine reception in the rooftop lounge and the homey vibe (must be all the folk art). 866-566-1300; kendallhotel.com ECO-FRIENDLY LODGING LENOX HOTEL, BOSTON

Recycling bins and HEPA air purif iers in every guest room, low-f low toilets and soap

Best of Massachusetts, 2018 Editors’ Choice Awards YANKEE MAGAZINE

An iconic Cape Cod inn up the street from Nauset Beach. •Restored, 200-Year-Old Sea Captain’s Home •17 Distinctively Decorated Rooms •1.5 Acres of Gardens • Pool • Patio • Fire Pit • Modern Amenities with Old World Charm

186 Beach Road, East Orleans, MA 508-255-1312 www.ShipsKneesInn.com

120 |

NEWENGLAND.COM

“Our most basic common link is that we all inhabit this small planet. We all breathe the same air... And we are all mortal.”

VISIONARIES NEVER GO OUT OF STYLE

JFK Presidential Library and Museum

See why visitors rank the JFK Presidential Library as the #2 museum in Boston* “Amazing – a walk through history! . . . an unforgettable journey through the life of a truly remarkable man.” “This museum is one of the best I have ever seen . . . located on the water with spectacular views. This is not to be missed on a trip to Boston.”

“Best Attraction in Boston – a stunning treasure trove of artifacts, audiovisuals . . . If you have time to see only one thing in Boston this is the one.” “Best Museum Visit – it was literally one of the best choices on a trip we’ve made.” “Fantastic! – Went with our son who we were visiting at college . . . We all loved it.” “Amazing tour – Each room has a story . . . This is a must to see!”

“Covers so many details of the lives of him and his family – home movies with Caroline, John Jr and Jackie” “Building stunning– Loved seeing the pictures of Jackie’s outﬁts . . . this was a highlight of our holiday.” “Gorgeous views of Boston– My family enjoys going to Presidential Libraries . . .[this] is my favorite so far.” “Excellent videos – The one on the Cuban Missile Crisis is outstanding.”

G E T I N S P I R E D AT T H E

JFK PRE SIDENTIAL LIBR ARY THE #2 RANKED MUSEUM IN BOSTON !

*Based on TripAdvisor ranking as of February 2019.

BOSTON + CAMBRIDGE

Experience an American Icon

dispensers in every bathroom, filtered waterand-ice stations plus LED hallway lighting on every f loor … it’s no surprise Travel + Leisure named the family-owned Lenox as the “Ultimate Green Hotel.” And this sustainable ethos extends beyond the front door: to the roof, where beehives and a garden supply the on-site City Table and City Bar with honey and herbs, and to eco-friendly transportation options (book a ride in the courtesy hybrid SUV or grab a loaner helmet and directions to the nearest bike-share kiosk). 617-536-5300; lenoxhotel.com

115 Derby Street Salem, M A 01970 978-74 4-0991 7gables.org

NEW HOTEL THE ROW HOTEL AT ASSEMBLY ROW, SOMERVILLE

Five-year-old Assembly Row, which transformed barren fields on the banks of the Mystic River into a shopping and lifestyle enclave, just keeps getting better. Alongside the chain and indie restaurants, high-end f itness studios, and the f irst new MBTA stop in more than 25 years, the newest kid on the block is the 58-room Row Hotel, part of Marriott’s boutique-leaning Autog raph Col lection. The luxe amenities (pillow-top mattresses, C.O. Bigelow bath products) make for a nifty contrast to callbacks throughout the hotel to

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Antique Lovers

this area’s former life as a Ford Motor plant (note the reclaimed auto parts in Feliciano Béjar’s Magiscope lobby sculptures). 617-6281300; therowhotelboston.com PET-FRIENDLY LODGING KIMPTON ONYX, BOSTON

Breadless double cheeseburger or chicken breast with kibble? Those are just two of the entrées on the “Pampered Pooches” room service menu, ostensibly curated by an Australian Labradoodle named Rocco, aka Kimpton Ony x’s director of pet relations. There are also Boston-inspired, f leece-topped dog beds in the rooms and locally made treats, but the best part? There’s no extra charge—or weight limit—for furr y friends. (“If your pet f its through the door, we’ll welcome them in.”) 617-557-9955; onyxhotel.com UPDATED HOTEL THE RITZ-CARLTON, BOSTON

This lion of the Boston hospitalit y scene recently under went a $13 million top-tobottom renovation that modernized its 193 guest rooms (adding more outlets, USB ports, and Telkonet EcoSmart System thermostats), as well as freshened up the 3,500-square-foot ballroom and the already exclusive top-f loor

TAKE NOTE

BRIMFIELD STARTS TUESDAY • MAY 14 th 5,000 Dealers of

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Country Market!

The Amazing World of

Dr. Seuss Museum

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Enjoy A Unique Shopping Experience Where Old Time Customer Service Is An Everyday Treat.

Discover an authentic New England village DS

historic-deerfield.org · 413-775-7214

Apples • Famous Cider Donuts Maple Syrup • Homemade Candy Delicatessen • Scratch Bakery & More! FLAGSHIP STORE: AT THE CORNER OF

ROUTE 116 & BAY ROAD • SOUTH AMHERST, MA

Tel. (413) 253-9528 or (800) 594-9537

www.atkinsfarms.com

VISIT OUR SATELLITE STORE: 113 COWLS RD. NORTH AMHERST

ART • HISTORY • SCIENCE • SEUSS IN SPRINGFIELD

SpringﬁeldMuseums.org •

30 Boltwood Avenue · Amherst, MA 01002 413.256.8200 · innonboltwood.com

Get Your FREE Western Mass Guide • 800-723-1548

Club Lounge. While the pros behind the project—New York architecture f irm Rockwell Group—are internationally known, they took care to infuse the Ritz-Carlton Boston with local f lavor: See suites that pay homage to hometown literary heavyweights Edgar Allan Poe and Ralph Waldo Emerson, as well as historic materials throughout. 617-574-7100; ritzcarlton.com/boston

MARCONI-RCA WIRELESS MUSEUM North Chatham, MA

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ATTRACTIONS

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ART-HOUSE MOVIE THEATER THE BRATTLE THEATRE, CAMBRIDGE

The tagline says it all: “Boston’s unoff icial film school since 1953.” Indeed, this Harvard Square stalwart is ground zero for esoteric and indie cinema and a specialist in repertory programming, i.e., films from a particular director, genre, or subject shown over the course of a week or on the same day throughout the month. Recent series have included “New Noir: Chinese Crime Films” and “Ingmar Bergman 100”—the latter featuring rarities by the revered Swedish filmmaker that originally premiered at the Brattle (!). 617-876-6837; brattlefilm.org

CELEBRATING 100: 1919 - 2019

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TripAdvisor Recommended

My Place

so much to see... so much to do

MAIN STREET HOSPITALITY PRESENTS A RED LION INN PRODUCTION STARRING THE STAFF

GUESTS OF THE RED LION INN THE RED LION INN DANCERS AND INTRODUCING MAJORA – THE RED LION GIRL

CINEMATOGRAPHY COURTESY OF THE MAJESTIC ROLLING HILLS OF THE BERKSHIRES ADVENTURE AND OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES BY THE HIKING TRAILS, CREEKS AND RIVERS OF WESTERN MASSACHUSETTS INDOOR FUN PROVIDED BY FOUR RESTAURANTS, LIVE MUSIC, A GIFT SHOP AND LOTS AND LOTS OF FASCINATING ANTIQUES AND KNICK KNACKS RELAXATION COURTESY OF A YEAR-ROUND

SWIMMING POOL AND THE FRONT PORCH FOOD FROM THE RED LION INN’S FABULOUS FARM-TO-TABLE MENU MUSIC PROVIDED BY THE SOFT, DULCET TONES OF THE BERKSHIRES

EDITED FROM A MILE LONG RED LION INN “THINGS TO DO” LIST PRODUCED BY THE RED LION INN’S UNIQUE AND QUIRKY SETTING DIRECTED BY ONE OF OUR FAVORITE REPEAT GUESTS FILMED ENTIRELY ON LOCATION AT THE RED LION INN AND IN THE BERKSHIRES’ PICTURESQUE NATURAL SURROUNDINGS

www.redlioninn.com

Welcome To America’s Oldest Restaurant

A National Historic Landmark On The Freedom Trail One Block From Historic Faneuil Hall

Specializing In Hearty Portions Of Yankee Style Seafood, Fresh New England Lobster And Grilled Meats 617-227-2750 41 Union Street • Boston

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BOSTON + CAMBRIDGE

BOOKSTORE BROOKLINE BOOKSMITH, BROOKLINE

As the story goes, Brookline Booksmith—née Paperback Booksmith—was one of the first stores to display books by category and organize them alphabetically by author. And the beloved 58-year-old independent continues to be on the cutting edge with starry author appearances (Abbi Jacobson, Jeff Tweedy, Barbara Kingsolver), eclectic book clubs (such as the Transnational Literature Series, focusing on “books concerned with migration, displacement, and exile, with particular emphasis on works in translation”), and a killer used-book selection. 617-566-6660; brooklinebooksmith.com BREWERY EXPERIENCE LAMPLIGHTER BREWING CO., CAMBRIDGE

With a stacked events calendar, vintage games aplenty, and an endless parade of buzzy food vendors—Manoa Poke, Saus Poutine—this über-hip brewer y in the old Metric Systems auto repair shop between Central and Inman squares is always the place to be. It helps that Lamplighter’s beer is among the best being crafted in Greater Boston right now: funk y New England IPAs, barrelaged sours, and other brews, all with rock ’n’ roll names such as New Slang, Stardust, and Lawyers, Guns, and Honey. 617-945-0450; lamplighterbrewing.com HISTORICAL EXPERIENCE FENWAY PARK TOUR, BOSTON

Start with

Salem’s Most Visited Museum Because...History Matters

Even if you’ve been to Fenway dozens of times, you’ve never seen it quite like this. To start, you don’t have to contend with 37,000-plus fans as you follow a guide behind the scenes at one of America’s oldest ballparks. Listen to tales of late Sox greats while seated in the grandstand, then get a whole new perspective settled on the Green Monster stools or peering down on the asymmetrical field from the press box. And what good’s a Fenway tour if you don’t come away with bragging rights? For one, the Sox beat the New York Highlanders (now the Yankees) in the first game played at Fenway in 1912—the Curse of the Bambino aside, we’ve been besting the Bronx Bombers since day one. 617-226-6666; mlb.com/redsox/ballpark/tours PADDLING ADVENTURE PADDLE BOSTON’S BOSTON SKYLINE & SUNSET KAYAK TOURS, BOSTON

Open Year Round

19 1/2 Washington Square North Salem, Massachusetts 01970 Visit us on Shop at our museum store onsite & online!

978.744.1692

salemwitchmuseum.com 124 |

Seen from the water, the glittering Boston skyline is a special sight indeed—and one we never tire of. Launch your rented double kayak from Paddle Boston’s T-accessible Kendall Square dock, and cross the Charles River to glide past the gold-capped State House and the Citgo sign (long may it glow) in this guided two-hour tour. You’ll probably return to land with the Standells’ “Dirty Water” stuck in your head—that’s an old-fashioned notion, of course, as the river recently earned an impressive A- for bacterial water quality from the Environmental Protection Agency. 617-965-5110; paddleboston.com

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DISCOVER WILLIAMSTOWN

A unique village where art, culture, and natural beauty thrive.

Fall Foliage from Stone Hill

williamstownchamber.com 413.458.9077 destinationwilliamstown.org Annual Holiday Walk’s Reindog Parade

Matthew Broderick in The Closet, Williamstown Theatre Festival 2018, photo by Carolyn Brown.

photo by Michael Lavin Flower

Clark Art Institute

An American Craftsman NEW LenoxNEW Gallery Lenox Gallery 22 Walker St.

(look left at St. Church St.) 22 Walker (at Church St.) Lenox, | 413.298.0175 Lenox, MA | MA 413.298.0175 AnAmericanCraftsman.com AnAmericanCraftsman.com

“…The Colonial Theatre is the go-to for summer musicals”

1ĉTH

-Yankee Magazine, Best 2017 Summer Stock

www.BerkshireTheatreGroup.org (413) 997-4444

JULY Ć-Ĉ • 175 ARTISTS

Ski Butternut, Rt 23 | Great Barrington, MA

“The Berkshires Premier Summer Art Event”

BerkshiresArtsFestival.com | ONLINE TICKET DISCOUNT

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NEW HAMPSHIRE DINING BAKERY, BREAD FIRE DOG BREADS, KEENE

MORE ONLINE! Find editors’ picks for the best summer events in New Hampshire at newengland.com/nh-events-2019.

Since relocating from Oklahoma two years ago, husband-and-wife team Sam Temple and Bridget Love have been wowing Cheshire County carb seekers with their French- and German-inspired breads and pastries—first as regular vendors at the Keene farmers’ market and now from their new downtown storefront. Fans of savory treats will delight in the sourdough and rye loaves (many made with local heirloom grains), while those with a sweet tooth will prize the chocolate babka and that sugary, buttery Breton favorite, kouign-amann. 603-903-3205; firedogbreads.com

his creative raw bar, fresh pasta, and f lair for vegetables. Brunch is an elevated affair: Consider the grilled toasts topped with short ribs, poached eggs, kale, squash, and poblano vinaigrette or—for something a little lighter— homemade granola with berries, local Greek yog ur t, and lavender honey. Plus, ever ything tastes better with views of the oh-sopastoral Dartmouth Green. 603-646-8000 ; pineathanoverinn.com

BAKERY, SWEETS YUM YUM SHOP, WOLFEBORO

DINER THE HUNGRY DINER, WALPOLE

When this lakeside institution didn’t open for the summer of 2017, locals and vacationers alike mourned. Thankfully, Spencer and Ashley Samuelian brought the Yum Yum Shop back from the brink, retaining the famed Kelly family recipes—doughnuts, pastries, and cookies galore—but modernizing the space with fresh branding and a blue and white motif. We’re happy to report that the frosted gingerbread men are as snappy and spicy as ever. (The best way to order them when the mercury climbs? As the bread in an ice cream sandwich festooned with sprinkles, bien sûr.) 603-5391919; yumyumshop.com

This is no down-and-dirty greasy spoon. The dishes here are literally pasture-to-table, as the meat used in the stellar tacos, hot wings, and burgers is sourced from the Hungry Diner’s sister business, Walpole Family Farms, located a mere five miles down the road. Take your plate outside to a dog-friendly front yard where you can play a round of cornhole or hang at a picnic table, sipping one of more than a dozen craft beers on tap (from of-the-moment breweries such as Kelsen, Banded Brewing, and Springdale) or a maple milkshake. 603756-3444; hungrydinerwalpole.com

BARBECUE GOODY COLE’S SMOKEHOUSE, BRENTWOOD

Heralded by a sign claiming it has the “Best Butts in Town” (true), this roadside barbecue joint helmed by Southern expats dishes out succulent ribs and melting, thick-cut brisket f lanked by slabs of buttery cornbread and sides that hold their own. The owners care about their sauces, too, offering everything from mustard and vinegar barbecue to sweet-andspicy and extra-hot. Count on a line when you arrive, and head straight to the barrel of complimentary shell-on peanuts to keep hunger pangs at bay. 603-679-8898; goodycoles.com BRUNCH PINE RESTAURANT, HANOVER

Given the steady stream of parents and prospective students that come to stay at the Dartmouth-owned Hanover Inn, on-site restaurant Pine could certainly rest on its laurels. Yet chef Justin Dain continues to dazzle with 126 |

FARMERS’ MARKET DERRY HOMEGROWN FARM AND ARTISAN MARKET, DERRY

After the long-running Derry farmers’ market disbanded in 2015, members of the community worked together to launch the Derry Homegrown Farm and Artisan Market for the 2017 growing season. Held in downtown Derry (specif ically, 1 W. Broadway) on Wednesday evenings from June to September, the market features more than 20 vendors from across the Merrimack Valley (Abbot Hill Creamery, Valencenti Pasta Farm, and Farmer Palmer Garlic, to name a few), as well as children’s activities, live music, and artist demos—all bef itting of the Granite State’s fourth-largest municipality. 603-548-3935; derryhomegrown.org FRIED CLAMS PETEY’S SUMMERTIME SEAFOOD AND BAR, RYE

The only way to end a perfect New Hampshire beach day is with a box of fried whole clams

at Petey’s, where the light, crispy breading lets the creamy bellies shine. Tangy tartar sauce is a f ine accompaniment, but a squirt of lemon is really all you need. And while the upstairs deck with its ocean glimpses is always bustling, we prefer to grab no-fuss takeout and park our sandy feet in the buoy-strewn picnic area overlooking the marsh. Ah, summer. 603-433-1937; peteys.com ICE CREAM KIMBALL FARM, JAFFREY

The first annual pilgrimage to the Jaffrey outpost of this regional scoop-shop chain is a harbinger of summer for devotees across the Granite State. The recipe for good old-fashioned fun starts with a comically large serving of farm-fresh ice cream that comes in f lavors you may have forgotten or believed extinct: buttercrunch, grape-nut, maple walnut, rum raisin. A visit here also includes dashes of puristapproved fried seafood, an idyllic rural setting next to the small Silver Ranch Airpark, and the Cruise Night auto show, which runs Wednesdays from June to September. 603-532-5765; kimballfarm.com/jaffrey LOBSTER ROLL GENO’S CHOWDER & SANDWICH SHOP, PORTSMOUTH

From the cheery yellow gingham tablecloths to the open-air patio perched above the Piscataqua River, seasonal Geno’s Chowder & Sandwich Shop might just be the platonic ideal of a New England seafood shack. Don’t dither, just ask for the house special: one of the excellent chowders and a regular lobster roll. Tender lobster is tossed with butter or mayonnaise to order—a request for little mayo yielded more than two tails’ worth of lightly dressed meat on a toasted, utilitarian hot dog bun with no filler (celery, onion, spices, whatever). Simple, and simply good. 603-4272070; genoschowder.com VEGETARIAN DINING LANEY & LU CAFÉ, EXETER

Jennifer Desrosier’s sweet Laney & Lu Café in downtown Exeter serves up the casual veggieforward food that America is craving right now, such as vibrant smoothie bowls, “big-a**” salads (their term, our edit), avocado toasts, and heav y-on-the-greens grain bowls and egg sandwiches—otherwise known as Instagram catnip (get a taste: @laneyandlucafe). But it’s not all shoots and leaves. May we suggest a vegan blueberry doughnut, sweet potato brownie, or almond cookie to go with your nitro cold brew or maca matcha latte? 603-580-4952; laneyandlu.com

NEWENGLAND.COM

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LODGING

need for a week (or weekend) in the woods. 603-968-3313; rdcsquam.com

B&B PICKERING HOUSE INN, WOLFEBORO

LUXURY STAY WENTWORTH BY THE SEA, NEW CASTLE

Wolfeboro residents Peter and Patty Cooke spent two years lovingly rehabbing the c. 1813 Yellow House, a crumbling local landmark across from Brewster Academy, thus saving it from almost-certain demolition. Restored to its former glory and renamed the Pickering House Inn, this 10-room bed-and-breakfast now features heated bathroom f loors, Frette robes, and rain showers, as well as the Barn, a r ustic-chic event space. 603-569-6948 ; pickeringhousewolfeboro.com

With almost 360 degrees of ocean and river vistas from its perch on New Castle’s Great Island, Wentworth by the Sea is a grand hotel in every sense of the word. A longtime summer stopover for East Coast socialites and highlevel politicos, Wentworth’s guest rooms are awash in light and water views. The hotel spa offers full-body makeovers (will it be the couples’ massage, the chocolate peppermint body scrub, or both?), its two restaurants make for delectable dine-in options, and, for those who really want to splurge, the expansive Marina Suite ups the fancy ante with access to a private pool. 603-422-7322; wentworth.com

CAMPGROUND DOLLY COPP CAMPGROUND, GORHAM

Named after backwoods folk hero Dolly Copp and partly situated on the farmstead that she ran with her husband, Hayes, in the midto-late-1800s, this hallowed 177-site campground—the largest in the White Mountain National Forest—puts visitors at the doorstep of the Presidential and Carter-Moriah ranges, while the nearby Daniel Webster Scout Trail leads hikers straight to the northeast base of Mount Washington. For f irst-time visitors to the Whites, there’s no better outdoor stay. 603-536-6100; fs.usda.gov/whitemountain HISTORIC VIBE HANCOCK INN, HANCOCK

An anchor of the nationally recognized Hancock Village Historic District, the homey Hancock Inn has been welcoming guests since George Washington’s first term. Though that particular founding father didn’t lodge there, Franklin Pierce, the only president hailing from New Hampshire, was a frequent guest. There are rooms named for both men, as well as for primitive artist Rufus Porter (his c. 1865 murals line the walls, so you can sleep literally ensconced in history). Daydream while rocking in one of the chairs on the inn’s front porch, or lose yourself in nature: The nearby Harris Center for Conservation Education offers mellow hikes, which are all but required when foliage season rolls around. 603-5253318; hancockinn.com KID-FRIENDLY LODGING ROCKYWOLD DEEPHAVEN CAMPS, HOLDERNESS

There’s never a dull moment at this century-old Squam Lake retreat, where the days brim with hiking, yoga, kayaking, nature walks, and other screen-free diversions. Participate as a family, or savor a little adult R&R by signing your kids up for age-appropriate activities, such as the Wee Campers play group for ages 3 through 6, island picnics for middle schoolers, and scavenger hunts and boat trips for teens. And leave the coolers and tents at home: The cabins, cottages, and lodges come equipped with bucolic charm and just about everything you and yours could 128 |

MOUNTAIN GETAWAY HIGHLAND CENTER LODGE, CRAWFORD NOTCH

At tent ion, outdoors y t y pes : T h is lodge nestled in idyllic Crawford Notch is the perfect jumping-off point for all your W hite Mountain adventures. Choose from a private room—with or without en suite bathroom— or a bunk room, and enjoy the included meal service as well as free guided hikes and ranger programs. And before you hit the trail, stop by the L.L. Bean Gear Room, which is stocked with rental equipment and clothing (daypacks, rain pants, gaiters, etc.) that would make your most diehard thru-hiking pals envious. 603466-2727; outdoors.org NEW HOTEL THE GLEN HOUSE, GREEN’S GRANT

Come for the view—a wall of windows in the lounge offers a Presidential Range panorama—and stay for the creature comforts at this new 68-room hotel at the base of Mount Washington. The f ifth iteration of the Glen House and the f irst property on the site in more than 50 years, it features an outdoor deck with a fire pit perfect for aprés-ski lounging, an indoor saltwater pool, and the Notch Grille. Add in thoughtful design touches evoking the area’s history, such as clean Shaker lines, artifacts from the local Abenaki tribe, and granite accents, and there’s a new mustvisit destination in the W hites. 603-4663420; theglenhouse.com WALK-TO-EVERYTHING LODGING THE SAILMAKER’S HOUSE, PORTSMOUTH

In 2017, local restaurateurs Jay and Amanda McSharr y transformed the Inn at Strawbery Banke into the Sailmaker’s House. The painstak ing renovation breathed new life into the inn’s original pine f loors, quirky layout, and other period details of the c. 1800 Greek Revival South End building, which sits smack-dab downtown and within easy walking distance of Prescott Park, the scene

at Market Square, and the city’s thriving (and growing) restaurant scene. 603-380-3447; sailmakershouse.com WATERFRONT LODGING INN AT PLEASANT LAKE, NEW LONDON

Steep sides, narrow flat / patch on top— / you are clear to me / like the memory of one day, the late U.S. poet laureate Donald Hall once rhapsodized about Mount Kearsarge. Get an eyeful of the majestic peak just beyond Pleasant Lake at this inn, which marked its 150th birthday in 2018. You almost can’t escape the view: Seven of the 10 rooms, the patio, and the refurbished Oak & Grain dining room all overlook the namesake lake. After a hearty breakfast, cross a country lane to access the private community beach, where kayaks, rowboats, and canoes promise adventure. A lso on offer? Beach chairs—snag one, and you and a good book can eschew activity altogether until cocktail hour. 603-873-4833; innatpleasantlake.com WELLNESS RETREAT OMNI MOUNT WASHINGTON RESORT, BRETTON WOODS

With golf and tennis in the summer, hiking in the spring and fall, and skiing in the winter, this is indeed a resort for all seasons. From the moment you breathe in the fresh mountain air and enter the historic Great Hall, replete with soaring ceilings and stone fireplace, you’ll fall under the Omni Mount Washington’s spell. Especially magical is the 25,000-square-foot spa, featuring rooms with views of the surrounding peaks and a long menu of facials, wraps, and seasonal treatments—including the intriguing Mountain Mu-xing Therapy, a deep-tissue massage administered with warm bamboo and rosewood tools. 603-278-1000 ; mountwashingtonresort.com

ATTRACTIONS ART-HOUSE MOVIE THEATER WILTON TOWN HALL THEATRE, WILTON

Don’t let the throwback vibe at this beloved c. 1886 movie house ($7 tickets, real buttered popcorn, cash only) fool you. It has a real focus on challenging, cutting-edge indie fare that you don’t often see outside the big city. Consider the special events, such as the donation-based Silent Sundays film series and the annual showing of It’s a Wonderful Life, and you have a true cinematic gem in this cozy little corner of the world. 603-654-3456; wiltontownhalltheatre.com BEACH WALLIS SANDS STATE BEACH, RYE

As you drive along coastal Route 1A, buzzing Hampton Beach and its boardwalk give way to North Hampton’s and Rye’s handsome estates overlooking the ocean. You’ve arrived—to Wallis Sands State Beach, that is. A family favorite that on clear days provides views of the Isles of Shoals, this sandy strip boasts

NEWENGLAND.COM

Summer Happiness...

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##### Over 100 Free Events... • 100 Free Nightly Concerts • 16 Spectacular Fireworks Displays Every Wed. Night & Holidays • Free Movies on the Beach Monday Nights • World Class 19th Annual Master Sand Sculpting Competition $15,000 in prizes • Country by the Coast Week • Beach Volleyball Tournaments • Children’s Festival • Talent Competition • Seafood Festival

SUPER STAR BEACH earns top honors for clean water

5 STAR RATING: Rated in the top 5 beaches in US and in the top 10 values for resorts in America for water quality and safety by the National Resources Defense Council.

Hampton Beach is rated 1 of 4 beaches in water cleanliness of all beaches in U.S.A.! as awarded by The Surfrider Foundation & Sierra Club’s “The Cleanest Beach Award”.

For a FREE Hampton Beach Vacation Guide and to View our Beach Cam, Visit www.hamptonbeach.org or call 1-800-GET-A-TAN. MAY | JUNE 2019

Bienvenue Hampton

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Actually Fly a bird!

NE W HAMPSHIRE

a large bathhouse, a snack bar, a grassy picnic area, tide pools, and a rare commodity this close to the sea: plentiful parking (one of 500 spots can be yours for $15 a day). 603-4369404; nhstateparks.org BOOKSTORE PORTSMOUTH BOOK & BAR, PORTSMOUTH

MAKES A GREAT GIFT!

Kevin Talbot Photography *KRVWŴ RZHUV FRP

Touch the wild in a way you never dreamed possible! Located in the beautiful, accessible hill-country of Southern NH.

NHSchoolofFalconry.com Call Nancy Cowan 603-464-6213

Email: falconers@comcast.net

DISCOVER NEW HAMPSHIRE’S CREATIVE SIDE

Embrace your inner Charles Bukowski at this used-book store and watering hole opened by three retail pros—John Petrovato, owner of Raven Used Books; Jon Strymish, former manager of the New England Mobile Bookfair; and David Lovelace, onetime co-owner of the Montague Bookmill—in Portsmouth’s rehabbed historic Custom House. Sip a Smuttynose Shoals pale ale and browse the eclectic fiction and nonfiction selection sandwiched into every nook and cranny, or share small plates and settle in for live music or a reading—this place is made for lingering. 603-427-9197; bookandbar.com BREWERY EXPERIENCE SCHILLING BEER CO., LITTLETON

When this northern New Hampshire brewery f irst opened in 2013 on the banks of the Ammonoosuc River, its continental European taps blew us away. And when it started pouring delicious American pale ales and double IPAs as part of a New World–focused side project, we wondered: Is there anything this brewery can’t do? As a testament to its success, Schilling unveiled a 7,500-square-foot expansion last summer housing a 20-barrel brewhouse, cellaring areas, and a shop, just steps away from the original gristmill brewpub. We can only hope this means more second-to-none Schilling suds out in the world. 603-444-4800; schillingbeer.com DAY AT THE FARM NEW HAMPSHIRE FARM MUSEUM, MILTON

Art By: Glen MacInnis

SHOP OUR EIGHT NH FINE CRAFT GALLERIES:

Concord, Hanover, Hooksett, Littleton, Meredith, Nashua, North Conway, Center Sandwich

Visit Our Exhibition Gallery, Permanent Collection Museum

49 S. Main St, Suite 100 | Concord, NH Exhibition Schedule at NHCRAFTS.ORG 86th Annual

Craftsmen’s Fair August 3-11, 2019

Mt.Sunapee Resort, Newbury, NH

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Encompassing two adjoining farmsteads on 50 acres, this Milton museum has something for everyone: history, heritage-breed animals, even hiking (more of a short ramble to an old family cemetery, but still). The mission here is to educate visitors about three centuries of agrarian tradition through guided tours, demos, and events such as sheepshearing, butter churning, and barn scavenger hunts. Leave feeling connected to the land—or at least toting cheese and other products from the land, procured at the country store. 603-652-7840; nhfarmmuseum.org DAY HIKE CARTER DOME LOOP, PINKHAM NOTCH

This 10-mile loop brings you up two high summits—Mount Hight and Carter Dome, which each approach 5,000 feet—and through Carter Notch, an impossibly beautiful mountain pass that’s home to two mirrored lakes and a secluded Appalachian Mountain Club hut serving up tasty soups and snacks. To be sure, the hike via the Nineteen-Mile Brook, Carter-Moriah, and Carter Dome trails is a rigorous one, but the varied terrain and breathtaking scenery are, as the kids say, #worthit. outdoors.org

KID-FRIENDLY ATTRACTION SEE SCIENCE CENTER, MANCHESTER

Calling all budding scientists, doctors, and biotech moguls: This Manchester museum recently launched “BiologYOU,” a permanent exhibit focused on the human genome, made possible by a $50,000 grant that SEE won from the Entrepreneurs’ Fund of New Hampshire. Its interactive stations on hereditary traits and secrets of the genetic code join the museum’s “Moonwalk ” experience, as well as the Lego Millyard Project, a minifigure-scale installation depicting the city’s Amoskeag Millyard as it might have looked circa 1900. For the 21-and-over crowd, there’s “Science on Tap,” a regular lecture series at nearby Stark Brewing Company. 603-669-0400; see-sciencecenter.org MINI GOLF CHUCKSTER’S, HOOKSETT

While the Chichester outpost of this fun-park chain has 15 attractions—including something called Chuckcycles—serious swingers should head straight to the Hooksett location, which has two 18-hole mini golf courses sans distractions. Both the Cave and the Fire Tower courses feature challenging, choose-your-ownadventure holes with multiple routes to the cup, but only the latter boasts the “World’s Longest Hole,” which starts atop a fire tower and goes 200 feet down from there. Post-links, treat yourself to a few Blake’s scoops in the ice cream barn, where the gross-out “Upchuck ” f lavor (a bilious-green cake batter base with cookie dough, white chocolate chips, and marshmallows) is a hit with the middle school set. 603210-1415; chucksters-hooksett.com NATURE EXPERIENCE ELC OUTDOORS LAKE UMBAGOG WILDLIFE TOUR, ERROL

There aren’t many regions as authentically New Hampshire as the Great North Woods. ELC Outdoors now offers visitors a family-friendly wildlife cruise aboard a 24-foot pontoon boat on Lake Umbagog, one of the most pristine (and fun-to-say) natural features in this wild and woolly place. So polish those binoculars and kick back: Your only job on this three-hour tour is to spot the local fauna, including bald eagles, black bears, loons, and perhaps an elusive moose or two. 603-215-0002; elcoutdoors.com PICK-YOUR-OWN ALYSON’S ORCHARD, WALPOLE

There’s no better place to get your autumn on than A lyson’s Orchard : Sit uated atop a drumlin, it has incredible big-sky views across verdant hills (no wonder it’s a soughtafter wedding venue) and a sweet store hawking fresh-baked pies and more. There are 50 types of apples on offer—including the prized Honeycrisp variety—spread across 450 acres, plus lawn games, wagon rides, and goats. The pick-your-own fun extends to peaches, berries, plums, and pears, too, which are ripe for plucking at various times in the summer and fall. 603-756-9800; alysonsorchard.com

NEWENGLAND.COM

Historic Theater: 28 Chestnut Street, Portsmouth, NH Loft: 131 Congress Street, Portsmouth, NH B2W Box Ofﬁce: 603.436.2400 • TheMusicHall.org

/MusicHall @MusicHall /MusicHallNH WRITERS ON A NEW ENGLAND STAGE IS A PARTNERSHIP BETWEEN:

PRESENTING SPONSORS:

WRITERS ON A NEW ENGLAND STAGE

JARED DIAMOND

Thu., May 9 • 7pm • Historic Theater Don’t miss hearing from the author of the landmark bestsellers Guns, Germs, and Steel and Collapse about his new book looking at how and why some nations recover from trauma and others don’t.

WRITERS ON A NEW ENGLAND STAGE

TOMMY ORANGE

MEDIA PARTNER:

Thu., May 16 • 7pm • Historic Theater

N E W

Extraordinary breakout Native American author Tommy Orange’s There There is the story of twelve unforgettable characters, Urban Indians living in Oakland, California, who converge and collide on one fateful day.

E N G L A N D ’ S

M A G A Z I N E

SERIES SPONSOR: Piscataqua Landscaping & Tree Service

Savor local flavor.

THANKS TO OUR PARTNERS

A BENEFIT FOR

SEPTEMBER 14, 2019 nhpbs.org/passport

MAY | JUNE 2019

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48 PEAKS OVER 4,000' AND NO END TO ADVENTURE IN SIGHT. HIKING

MOUNT WASHINGTON

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THE BEST WAY TO WAKE IS ON THE WATER.

B OAT I N G

LAKE SUNAPEE

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All Aboard!

LOCH LYME LODGE

Experience old-fashioned train rides, all departing from our 1874 Victorian Station in North Conway Village, NH.

“Get back to the basics” 20 cabins with ﬁreplaces Restaurant Late June – Labor Day Play, swim, boat, ﬁsh, hike, bike, and relax by the lake in Lyme, NH

Choose from two Valley routes or the legendary Notch Train First Class dining on both trains Excursions from 1 to 5½ hours though December 31

Open May to October • Pet-Friendly

A White Mountains Attraction

800-423-2141 www.LochLymeLodge.com

ConwayScenic.com 800-232-5251 • (603) 356-5251

~since 1923~

Historic estate. Unmatched views.

Open

Year

Roun

Made from Scratch Pancakes, waffles, French toast, soups, sandwiches, quiche, ice cream, pies and more. Open Daily 7 am

Historic mansion tours • Dining with a view Horseback riding • Programs and events Giant Rainbow Trout pond • 28 miles of trails and waterfalls

Open Daily May 25-Oct 27 134 |

603.476.5900 • castleintheclouds.org Rte. 171, 455 Old Mountain Rd | Moultonborough, NH

I-93, Exit 38 672 Rte. 117 Sugar Hill, NH 603-823-5575 www.PollysPancakeParlor.com NEWENGLAND.COM

HAMPTON BEACH,NH Rediscover the #1 rated U.S.A. Super Star Beach!

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• 100 Free Nightly Concerts • 16 Spectacular Fireworks 2019 Wednesday Nights & Holidays • Master Sand Sculpting Competition: June 20-21-22 • Country by the Coast: July 7-8-9-10-11 • Children’s Festival: Aug. 12-16 • Talent Competition: Aug. 23-24-25 • Seafood Festival: Sept. 6-7-8 For FREE Travel Guide or to view our the ocean with our live Beach Cam,

visit www.hamptonbeach.org

COACH LOFT OUTLET MICHAEL KORS CHAMPION CHICO’S EDDIE BAUER SKECHERS

Yarns Looms Classes Fiber Art Kits O

4 Mill Alley, Harrisville | 603-827-3996 | harrisville.com

MAY | JUNE 2019

TA LB OT S

Tax-free shopping at 80+ brands! Public art, foot soak spa, and 13 restaurants & eateries. settlersgreen.com 888-667-9636 | 135

GOING WITH THE FLOW DOESN’T ALWAYS MEAN FOLLOWING THE CROWD.

K AYA K I N G

ANDROSCOGGIN RIVER

VISITNH.GOV

ANTI UES •

Your Visit to Wolfeboro Can Be… …Whatever You Want It To Be Waterfront Shopping. Dining & Lodging. Free Public Beaches. Boat Rentals. Golf. Art Galleries. Sunsets. Paddleboarding.

Concerts. Cruises. Trolley Tours. Theatre . Scuba Diving. Four Museums. Kayaking. Jet Skis. Farmers’ Market. Fishing .

You can do everything… ...or nothing at all. Ask for a FREE brochure! at wolfeborochamber.com 603-569-2200 Sponsored by wolfeboronh.us Wolfeboro Economic Development Committee “Work and Live Where You Love to Play”

O N ELM

A GROUP SHOP •

Group Antique & Vintage Shop with100 dealers Open 7 days a week

PARKER’S MAPLE BARN

A family establishment since the late 1960s serving hearty breakfasts and lunch. One of New Hampshire’s Top Ten Restaurants. We make our own maple syrup. Visit our sugar house & gift shop in Mason, NH, or visit our online store.

603-878-2308 parkersmaplebarn.com De l ig h t ing in t he pa s t Follow 300+ years of history in the heart of downtown Portsmouth, NH. Architectural gems, heirloom gardens, costumes role-players and traditional crafts make sense of time and place. Open May through October

603-606-1736

AntiquesOnElmManchester.com 321 Elm St. • Manchester, NH 03101 AntiquesOnElm@comcast.net

The Largest Arcade In The World!

• 600 Games for All Ages! • Bowling • Mini-Golf • Bingo • Zip-Lines • Ice Cream Stand • Tavern • Restaurant

23(1 $// <($5 Strawberybanke.org 14 Hancock Street Portsmouth, NH 03801 603.433.1100

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Rt 3, Weirs Beach, NH • FunspotNH.com NEWENGLAND.COM

Stay at the Lake. A lifestyle, leisure and event resort dedicated to providing a quintessential New England experience…

•s Historic 15-acre estateAND andGARDENS gardens (ISTORIC ACRE ESTATE •s 41 rooms, COTTAGES cottages and suites ROOMS SUITES •s Restaurant andPUB Pub 2ESTAURANT AND •s Full-service Aveda#ONCEPT Concept3PA Spa &ULL SERVICE !VEDA •s Indoor pool, HOT hotTUB tubAND andlTNESS ﬁtnessCENTRE centre )NDOOR POOL •s Outdoor pool AND andPOOL poolBAR bar /UTDOOR POOL •s Weddings, and private events 7EDDINGS elopements, EVENTS

Christmas Farm Inn & Spa 3 Blitzen Way, Jackson, NH 03846 1-800-443-5837 info@christmasfarminn.com christmasfarminn.com

Harman’s Cheese & Country Store Unique Store and Mail-Order with our “World’s Greatest” Cheddar Cheese, aged two full years. A tradition for 64 years. Open year ´round. Free tasting samples 1400 Rte. 117, Sugar Hill, NH 03586

603-823-8000 www.HarmansCheese.com

MAY | JUNE 2019

4 Inns • 5 Restaurants • 10 Shops Event Spaces • Cascade Spa & Salon Lake Winnipesaukee

312 Daniel Webster Highway Meredith, NH . (844) 482-7077 . PLOOIDOOV FRP

Bringing You Nearer to Nature

Save $3 Limit two. Cannot be combined with any other offer. Expires 11/1/19. YNK

Dinosaurs

www.nhnature.org Route 113, Holderness, NH

July through September

on trail admission

alive!

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ALL OUR ROADS EVENTUALLY GO OFF THE BEATEN PATH.

BIKING

BARTLETT

SALMON FALLS

STONEWARE

Traditional New England Salt-Glaze Pottery Handmade by Local Artisans

VISITNH.GOV

Step Back In Time

Poore Family Homestead Historic Farm Museum Living History

Drive • Tour • Explore MOUNT WASHINGTON Just 20 minutes north of North Conway

Regular Museum Hours: June – Sept. • Sat. & Sun. 11 am to 3 pm (or as posted)

25th Annual Open Barn & Celebration • July 6th

Celebrating Kenneth’s 134th Birthday

Open to the public 11 am – 4 pm

FREE Birthday Cake & Lemonade will be served Live Music: On the Front Porch also demonstrations of Weaving, Spinning, Soap Making, Tanning Hides, Pewter Casting & more. Audience participation is encouraged!

DRIVE YOURSELF

Sat., August 10, 2019 Poore Farm Concert Open Every Day 9am - 5pm 75 Oak Street, Dover, NH

(603) 749-1467 www.SalmonFalls.com

The White Mountains of New Hampshire are a wonderful place to escape, explore and create unforgettable memories. Experience towering peaks, stunning scenery, spectacular waterfalls, limitless recreation and 17 legendary attractions that have provided a lifetime of memories and cheer for generations of visitors.

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An afternoon performance at the Poore Farm Amphitheater & Stage Venue, just off NH Rte 145 Watch for Signs

Admission to either event: $10 Donation/adult Accompanied Children Under 12 are FREE

www.PooreFarm.org

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of New Hamspire “Forgotten. Buried. Denied. No More.” Experience Portsmouth’s rich Black history. Hear stories of Ona Marie Judge’s escape from George Washington. Visit the wharf where Africans were unloaded as cargo. See the memorialized site of a Colonial African burying ground, and more.

603-570-8469 • blackheritagetrailnh.org

The 2019 Frost Place Summer Reading Series Experience free poetry readings featuring world-class contemporary poets. All events are open to the public.

June 22-26 // July 6-12 // August 4-9 The Frost Place | 158 Ridge Rd. Franconia, NH 03580 Readings begin at 7:30 pm frostplace.org | frost@frostplace.org | 603-823-5510

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AYERS LAKE FARM

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497 Washington St. • Barrington, NH 03825

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PIZZERIA ĭ RISTORANTE Lunch and Dinner Daily Live Musical Entertainment Nightly! Award-winning Italian Menu Featuring all Your Favorites! Two Bars and an International Wine List! Join us in THE GROTTO AT GIUSEPPE’S for Karaoke, Thursdays at 10 p.m. and DJ and dancing, Fridays & Saturdays 10 p.m.–1 a.m. Take-out • Delivery (within 5 miles) Reservations highly recommended Corner of Routes 3 & 25 Mill Falls Marketplace, Meredith, NH

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BEST OF NEW ENGL AND

MAINE DINING

BAKERY, SWEETS TWO FAT CATS BAKERY, PORTLAND

The iconic pies of the Pine Tree State couldn’t be more different. Maine blueberry pie celebrates the tart juiciness of wild blueberries as it bubbles through the slits of a f laky crust. At the other end of the wholesomeness spectrum, the whoopie pie cements together two slightly rounded cocoa sponges with a sugary “creme” that soothes your inner child by satisfying even the most extreme sweet tooth. Two Fat Cats does them both to perfection. 207-347-5144; twofatcatsbakery.com BRUNCH ONDINE, BELFAST

Chef Evan Mallett emerged as a champion of locavore cuisine at the Black Trumpet in Portsmouth, New Hampshire. When it came time to open a second restaurant, he planted Ondine in Belfast, Midcoast Maine’s ground zero for farms and fishermen. During warm weather, he augments dinners with a great à la carte Sunday brunch (the free-range eggs and braised greens on polenta are worth the trip alone). A can’tmiss brunch pairing here? Maine oysters with a mimosa. 207-338-3318; ondinebelfast.com DELI ROSE FOODS, PORTLAND

The Back Cove location doesn’t deter those with a jones for authentic New York deli fare. Rose does a booming lunch business with corned beef or egg salad on house-baked caraway-seeded rye, while couples often gravitate to the “Fishermen’s Feast for 2,” which gathers all the housecured fishes (including lox cured with pastrami spices) onto a single platter with pickles, onions, capers, cream cheese, and fresh golden bagels. In a nod to bubbes everywhere, one dining room wall is papered with a recherché rose pattern. 207-835-0991; rosefoods.me DINER PALACE DINER, BIDDEFORD

The Palace proves that everything old can be new again if you’re true to your roots. Built in 1927, this 15-seat Pollard diner served generations of Biddeford mill workers; now it feeds discerning foodies. Co-owners Greg Mitchell and Chad Conley understand the appeal of the honest, uncomplicated comfort food that made diners iconic. Their now-famous tuna melt has the 142 |

MORE ONLINE! Find editors’ picks for the best summer events in Maine at newengland.com/me-events-2019.

perfect angled slab of iceberg lettuce with tuna salad on grilled eggy challah bread, showing that top-quality ingredients trump fussy flourishes. 207-284-0015; palacedinerme.com FRIED CLAMS BOB’S CLAM HUT, PORTLAND

A roadside staple in Kittery since 1956, Bob’s built its fame on two styles of fried clams: “Bob’s,” which are dipped in a mix of unseasoned f lours and fried to light crispness, and “Lillian’s,” which make two passes through the f lours with an egg wash in between, creating a crunchier clam. The double-barreled magic has transplanted perfectly to Portland’s East End. The glass-walled modernist box that houses the restaurant is an urban analog to the funky roadside original, complete with picnic tables. 207536-7608; bobsclamhut.com ICE CREAM SMILING HILL FARM, WESTBROOK

Few ice cream destinations offer kids as much fun as Smiling Hill. A pioneer of cow-to-cone farmstead ice cream, this 12th-generation family farm makes a bevy of traditional and novelty flavors using the milk from its Holstein herd. In all, more than 40 types are on tap, including the very New England-y Indian pudding. Enjoy a cone at the picnic tables overlooking rolling pastures and the big red milking barn, then spring for a visit to the Barnyard, where small fry can meet llamas and alpacas, and pet baby goats. 207-775-4818; smilinghill.com NEW RESTAURANT ELDA, BIDDEFORD

Nearly a decade after scoring national attention (and a slew of James Beard Award nominations) for his work at Forage in Salt Lake City, chef Bowman Brown has made himself at home on Biddeford’s Main Street. Portland foodies will drive the extra half hour to get here, because Brown goes the extra mile to rethink Maine seafood: a local oyster graced with buttermilk snow and lemon oil, smoked monkf ish with meltingly soft caramelized cabbage, kimchimarinated mussels. From his old-fashioned pickling of vegetables (including sea veggies) to

his unrestrained use of open flame, Brown packs his plates with a symphony of strong f lavors. Maine’s next great chef has arrived. 207-4948365; eldamaine.com SPECIAL-OCCASION SPLURGE NATALIE’S, CAMDEN HARBOUR INN, CAMDEN

The dining room has the elegant design hallmarks of an upscale Parisian bistro, but the sweeping view of mast-filled Camden harbor definitely anchors this night out in Maine. And the menu makes the best of the state’s signature luxe ingredient. If you think the only thing to do with Maine lobster is to dip the meat in butter, consider coconut-lobster bisque graced with a pickled pepper or a lobster salad with crunchy jicama and spicy nasturtium leaves. Either or both could show up on the legendary five-course lobster tasting menu. Co-chefs Shelby Stevens and Chris Long build seasonal menus around superb local ingredients such as foraged spruce tips, vegetables and herbs from the inn’s gardens, and fish off their neighbors’ boats. 207-2367008; nataliesrestaurant.com UPSCALE LOBSTER ROLL PEARL KENNEBUNK BEACH AND SPAT OYSTER CELLAR, KENNEBUNK

Idyllic childhood summers in Kennebunkport, complete with shore dinners, inspired Rebecca Charles to open Pearl Oyster Bar in New York’s Greenwich Village. Recently, she came full circle back to Kennebunk with this polished Maine seafood venue. The lobster roll ingredients are no secret—she published them years ago. But the devil is in the details: how much lemon to add to the Hellmann’s, how to cook the lobster to the perfect texture, how long to grill the bun with how much butter. It’s an art, and she’s an artist. 207-2040860; pearloysterbar.com/pearl-maine WATERFRONT DINING TERRACE GRILLE, BAR HARBOR INN, BAR HARBOR

The front-lawn tables at the casual Terrace Grille have the best setting in Bar Harbor. They provide sweeping views of the maritime comings and goings on Frenchman Bay. The Maine lobster stew in sherry cream served in a hollow of bread is a summer favorite—though many diners opt for the full lobster bake with potatoes, corn on the cob, and blueberry pie. No reservations are accepted, so go early for drinks and stay to dine. 207-288-3351; barharborinn.com

NEWENGLAND.COM

LARGE GROUPS WELCOME In the heart of Portland’s historic waterfront district

Join Us On The Dock & Get Crackin’

Voted Portland’s Best Seafood The Portland Phoenix & Lobster Roll Wine - Local Beers - Live Music Open Everyday - Eat In or Take Out

The perfect lunch/dinner spot on the water.

In the “Old Port” at Long Wharf 180 Commercial Street, Portland, Maine

maineshakers.com

www.portlandlobstercompany.com 207-775-2112

Maine’s home for wicked good fun, with 24/7 casino action and our convenient hotel and pub!

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“THIS IS AN EXTRAORDINARY MUSEUM.”

MAINE MARITIME MUSEUM Bath, Maine • 207-443-1316 • www.MaineMaritimeMuseum.org

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M A INE

LODGING B&B CAPTAIN FAIRFIELD INN, KENNEBUNKPORT

With its high ceilings and strong Yankee lines, this 1813 sea captain’s mansion has always been one of the most gracious lodging choices in Kennebunkport. New owners have deftly modernized it with clean-lined furniture, saturated colors, and a lively interplay of patterns. (Eight of the nine rooms feature gas fireplaces, too.) A tapas-style breakfast of sweet and savory small plates will fortify you for the beach or for shopping around Dock Square, a five-minute walk away. 207-967-4454; captainfairfield.com CAMPGROUND SEBAGO LAKE STATE PARK, CASCO

It’s surprising that with a depth of 316 feet and a surface area of more than 45 square miles, Sebago Lake doesn’t have its own mythical sea monster. What it does have, though, are resident populations of landlocked salmon and lake trout, more than 100 miles of shoreline, and this 1,400-acre campground, now in its ninth decade, revered by the families who return year after year to the 250 wooded sites set back from the water. Hiking trails crisscross the surrounding woods, but most campers come to swim and bask in the piney surroundings. 207-693-6613; maine.gov/dacf/parks ECO-FRIENDLY LODGING THE CHADWICK, PORTLAND

Here’s proof that a light env ironmenta l footprint can go hand in hand with creature comforts. When you’re luxuriating on the comfortable mattresses or feasting at breakfast on the signature lobster eggs Benedict, you’d never give a thought to the Chadwick’s staunchly green philosophy. The B&B composts all organic materials, uses low-energy LEDs, avoids printed communications, and is equipped with low-f low toilets, showerheads, and sinks. The Gilchrist & Soames body products even help support honeybee research—proof that doing good can also feel good. 207-774-5141; thechadwick.com HISTORIC VIBE HIGGINS BEACH INN, SCARBOROUGH

For nearly a century, this voluminous whiteshingled inn has quietly reigned over the tranquil Higgins Beach summer community. From the crest of a small rise, the property looks one block down Ocean Avenue to the broad seaside light overspreading the sandy curl of Higgins Beach. New owners didn’t f ix what wasn’t broken, keeping the timeless simplicity of the 23 bright rooms with their simple beds and wicker chairs. The biggest nod to modernity was to stain the wood-paneled walls to match the painted plaster and to update the bathrooms. As at many traditional beach hotels, most rooms here are compact, but there are a handful of spacious suites suitable for family getaways. 207-883-6684; higginsbeachinn.com

MAY | JUNE 2019

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MAINE

KID-FRIENDLY LODGING LAFAYETTE’S OCEANFRONT RESORT, WELLS

Rolling surf and squawking gulls may muff le the joyful squeals of children running down the mile-plus strand of Wells Beach, but that doesn’t mean they’re not having fun. This compound of motor inns and cottages dominates the beach end of Mile Road, which means guests step out their doors to the beach instead of hiking down from the other side of the marsh. Cottages and some motel efficiency units have kitchens for preparing family meals. For large family gatherings, some units can sleep up to 10 in multiple bedrooms. But the point of staying here is to enjoy the kid-friendly beach, where gentle waves and gradual f lats just below the resort make good, safe swimming for beginners. 207-646-2831; wellsbeachmaine.com MOUNTAIN GETAWAY KAWANHEE INN, WELD

THE

B runswick Inn

Authentic New England Charm & Elegance

What makes a perfect getaway?

The woodsy environs around mountainringed Webb Lake leave no doubt as to why Maine calls itself the Pine Tree State. The forest supplied the timber to build the inn and accompanying cabins as staff housing for a nearby summer boys’ camp. Now the log-andshingle structures, pine-paneled rooms, and massive stone fireplaces bring the mountainlake summer camp experience to all. Staffers provide trail maps for hiking Mount Blue and Tumbledown Mountain, where a technical rock climbing trail is one option for the ascent. There are no classes in weaving gimp lanyards anymore, but the inn does loan canoes and kayaks. 207-585-2000; kawanheeinn.com NEW HOTEL THE FRANCIS, PORTLAND

Come see for yourself ...

Conveniently located in the heart of downtown on historic Park Row. The picturesque village green is our front yard, and downtown is just steps away.

165 Park Row Brunswick, ME 04011 207-729-4914 800-299-4914 thebrunswickinn.com 146 |

Originally a private home, this 1881 West End mansion stood abandoned for a decade before the current owners rescued and restored the property to create one of Portland’s most appealing lodgings. Vintage stained glass, a tiled fireplace in the parlor, and f loors with striking inlaid patterns provide the historic framework for contemporary decor in muted grays and tans. A second-story spa enhances that low-key serenity with a choice of massages and full-body scrubs. 207-772-7485; thefrancismaine.com PET-FRIENDLY LODGING GRAND HARBOR INN, CAMDEN

141 Port Road Kennebunk, Maine

englishmeadows.com 207-967-5766

Fido need not stay home when you check into the only waterfront lodging on Camden’s yacht-filled harbor. The luxury hotel extends an “open paws” welcome for canine traveling companions in five of the 10 guest rooms and suites. There’s a maximum of two dogs per room, but no size limitation. You get the private balcony, Jacuzzi tub, and gas fireplace. Your best friend gets food and water bowls, a f leece-lined doggie bed, biscuit treats, and a welcoming scratch behind the ears. 207-2307177; grandharborinn.com

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Be gininathetradition heart of Ogunquit. WALK-TO-EVERYTHING LODGING ACADIA HOTEL, BAR HARBOR

Driving through the narrow streets of Bar Harbor can be exasperating—and unnecessary, if you opt to settle in at the Acadia Hotel on the town green. It’s steps from the Shore Path, close to most of the restaurants and shops, and about two blocks from the pick-up spot for Acadia National Park tours. The modern, simple guest rooms are modestly priced, and the hotel has loaner bicycles available for getting anywhere you don’t want to walk to. 207-288-5721 or 888-876-2463; acadiahotel.com

Experience the heart of Ogunquit at your door every season of the year—lobsters and lighthouses, sandy beaches and sunsets, world class dining and relaxation. Let us help you begin a Maine tradition today.

WATERFRONT LODGING GREY HAVENS INN, GEORGETOWN

Every guest room but one has a partial or full ocean view in this marvelously old-fashioned shingle-style inn situated just down the road from the beaches of Reid State Park. If you can’t get enough of that view, splurge on an overnight in one of the turret rooms for a 270-degree panorama of sea and shore. The inn faces east for fantastic sunrises. White rockers on the long front porch are tailormade for rhythmic rocking and reading or just watching the lobster boats come and go. 207-371-2616; greyhavens.com

Ogunquit, Maine I 800-633-8718 I reservations at: meadowmere.com

SUMMER ADVENTURES BEGIN IN BAR HARBOR

Your 3.5-hour journey from Maine to Nova Scotia now begins, once again, in Bar Harbor. Experience an adventure 96% of travelers recommend to friends.

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Bar Harbor & Acadia National Park

MAINE

…where the views are always memorable.

ATTRACTIONS ART-HOUSE MOVIE THEATER RAILROAD SQUARE CINEMA, WATERVILLE

Having celebrated its 40th birthday in 2018, the Railroad Square Cinema is a true comeback tale: After burning to the ground in 1994, it was rebuilt and reopened the following year thanks to the dedication of its founders and the local community. Then in 2012 it was bought by the Maine Film Center, the nonprof it parent organization of the Maine International Film Festival, which has been based at Railroad Square since its launch in 1998. In its weekly schedule the three-screen theater mi xes f irst-run independent and international films with classics of world cinema, and serves up what it calls “the best popcorn in the known universe.” 207-873-6526; railroadsquarecinema.com

At lantic Ocea n side

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An iconic Maine destination for over 130 years.

A water view balcony in each room.

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Mile Beach is a rarity on the Maine coast: a long sandy beach backed by dunes instead of marshes. Stretching between Griffith Head (where you f ind the main parking, concessions, and rest rooms) and Todd’s Point, Mile displays a pristine majesty when viewed from atop its high dunes. Currents change with the season, sometimes creating sand bar lagoons good for warm, shallow swimming. But when the wind whips up, there are also several curling breaks for surfers. 207-371-2303; maine.gov/dacf/parks BOOKSTORE PRINT, PORTLAND

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PACKAGES START AT

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41 Elm Street Camden, Maine 207.236.4259

True indie bookstores have become nearly as rare as phone booths, but a few brave souls keep opening these shrines to the literary life. Along with best-sellers and general fiction, Print champions Maine authors, poetry, small presses, and young adult literature. It also hosts myriad readings, signings, and book discussions. R ichard Russo novels account for about three feet of the Maine shelves—natural enough, given that daughter Emily is a co-owner here. 207-536-4778; printbookstore.com BREWERY EXPERIENCE ALLAGASH BREWING COMPANY’S GRAND CRU TOUR, PORTLAND

Beer geeks lust after the kind of experience offered on the Grand Cru Tour, but only a dozen are allowed on each three-hour sojourn. Go behind the scenes to see brewing, aging, and bottling. Each tour differs but count on barrel tastings, samples of rare beers, and a visit to the “coolship,” where wild yeasts kick off the lambics. A member of the tech staff pops in on every tour. You’ll glean inside trade information—but not the name of the secret spice in Allagash White. All

NEWENGLAND.COM

proceeds go to local charities. Reservations essential. 207-878-5385; allagash.com HISTORICAL EXPERIENCE SABBATHDAY LAKE SHAKER VILLAGE, NEW GLOUCESTER

Few places embody the term “ living history” as beautifully as this final active Shaker community. For 225 years, members of the United Society of Believers in Christ’s Second Appearing have eked out a living on this western Maine farm. A “Friends” group helps the remaining two Shakers with farm chores, runs the store that sells Shaker seeds and wool, and gives tours that provide a poignant and palpable feeling for Shaker life. 207926-4597; maineshakers.com KID-FRIENDLY ATTRACTION MAINE WILDLIFE PARK, GRAY

It’s hard to know whether to look first at the majestic moose browsing on alders or the playful black bears splashing around their water feature. The big cats—bobcats, lynx, and cougars—alternately den up or lounge on elevated platforms in this Department of Inland Fisheries and Wildlife sanctuary for animals unable to live in the wild. Patient youngsters might count as many as 30 species, most native to the Maine woods, in an afternoon. Pack a lunch to enjoy at a picnic table on the park like grounds. 207-6574977; mainewildlifepark.com MADE-IN-MAINE SHOP ARCHIPELAGO, ROCKLAND

Whether crafting birdhouses that resemble lobster buoys or knitting baby booties modeled on the L.L. Bean duck boot, Maine’s artisans are a creative lot. This shop, associated with the Island Institute, gathers the work of more than 200 makers who live on the state’s islands and in remote coastal communities. There’s no better place to find the perfect memento of Maine. For a real treat, invest in a Swans Island blanket. 207-5960701; thearchipelago.net

Own a piece of Maine Paradise...

MAY | JUNE 2019

Freeport Maine’s Premier Hotel

Shorelands.com Kennebunkport 1-800-99beach Seasonal Studio & One-Bedroom Beach Cottages for Sale from $109,000

NEW CULTURAL ATTRACTION “INTO THE LANTERN” EXHIBIT, MAINE MARITIME MUSEUM, BATH

At night, a mariner lives by two rhythms: the lapping of waves on the hull and the periodic winking of the lighthouses that triangulate the boat’s location. This new permanent exhibit at the Maine Maritime Museum— which is already a sprawling showcase of local seafaring heritage situated on 20 acres on the Kennebec River—captures the experience of the Cape Elizabeth Two Lights lantern room as its beacon brings sailors home. Video projections simu late the ever-chang ing ocean, while the centerpiece of the exhibit is the original second-order Fresnel lens that magnif ied and concentrated a lantern so it could be seen far out to sea. 207-443-1316; mainemaritimemuseum.org

The Harraseeket Inn

info@shorelands.com

This family-owned, 93-room luxury inn features two great restaurants, 23 fireplaces, an indoor heated pool and is fully handicapped accessible. Select pet-friendly rooms available. Walk to the best shopping on the Maine coast and the Amtrak Downeaster train station. Ask about our Yankee Getaway Package. Book direct for complimentary breakfast and afternoon tea.

162 Main Street • Freeport, ME 04032

800-342-6423 www.harraseeketinn.com On our home page, Click to learn more about owning a cottage at Shorelands.

MEETINGS WEDDINGS OCCASIONS TO 250 PEOPLE OPEN ALL YEAR

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♦

BOOTHBAY HARBOR ♦

M A INE

WINDJAMMER DAYS

PADDLING ADVENTURE MAINE ISLAND KAYAKING TOURS, PEAKS ISLAND, PORTLAND

57th Annual Festival Celebrating Maine’s Maritime Heritage JUNE 23-JUNE 29, 2019

19th Century Charm Luxury accommodations & stunning landscapes await you at the heart of Maine’s lakes & mountains... Downtown and waterfront Renovated guestrooms & suites Walk to shops and restaurants Fishing - Kayaks - Canoes ATV/snowmobile trail access

For a complete schedule of events visit WWW.BOOTHBAYHARBORWINDJAMMERDAYS.ORG

207-864-3341 www.therangeleyinn.com 2443 Main St. • Rangeley, Maine

If you’re itching to go beyond simple f loat-toy kayaks to maneuver a true sea kayak in gentle surf and find soft landing spots on rocky shores, these half- and full-day tours should be right up your alley. Athletic beginners are also welcome to join the explorations of the Casco Bay archipelago, which begin at Kayak Beach next to the island ferry dock. Two-hour sunset tours reveal a glowing city skyline hard to see from any other vantage. 207-420-0333; maineislandkayak.com THRILL RIDE SEA VIPER AT PALACE PLAYLAND, OLD ORCHARD BEACH

Palace Playland, New England’s only beachfront amusement park, has boasted several roller coasters since it f irst opened in 1902. The compact footprint, however, constrains the size of thrill rides. By rising twice as high, to a height of more than 70 feet, the Italiandesigned $4 million Sea Viper packs more than a quarter mile of track into the space once occupied by the slower Galaxi. Real speed is only a little over 40 mph, but riders’ screams attest that it’s plenty fast enough. 207-9342001; palaceplayland.com

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....for a weekend or a lifetime.

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4th of July z Bastille Day z Plein Air Festival z Yacht Races

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You Might Be Surprised… …by what we are discovering right now in the Western Mountains of Maine – tourmaline, exquisitely beautiful tourmaline crystals which we have made into jewelry. Visit our store to see over 400 pieces of fine Maine tourmaline jewelry. Preview our collection on-line and be sure to stop in to see the real thing.

Cross Jewelers 570 Congress St. Portland, Maine Visit us Monday-Friday 9:30am to 5:00pm www.CrossJewelers.com 1-800-433-2988

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BEST OF NEW ENGL AND

VERMONT DINING BAKERY, BREAD GREEN RABBIT BAKERY, WAITSFIELD

Suzanne Slomin’s solar-powered bakery began years ago to supplement her farm business at Warren’s Kingsbury Market Garden. In 2014, she moved operations to a dirt-road homestead in Waitsfield. There, at the edge of the forest, in the shadow of Mount Alice, she works alone, blending organic grains with salt, starter, water, and time. Her burnished, split-eared loaves come studded with olives and rosemary, Jack cheese and chives, cinnamon and raisins. For those living in the bakery’s modest delivery radius, the breads offer a regular taste of mountain living at its finest. 802-224-6431; greenrabbitvt.com BAKERY, SWEETS SWEET SIMONE’S, RICHMOND

Richmond’s community bake shop isn’t big: just a coffee counter, a few pastry cases, and a handful of tables. Yet for many locals, breakfast means daily stops for baker Lisa Curtis’s ooeygooey cinnamon buns, puffed up and warm from the oven. Lunchtime brings brisket or tempeh Reubens, chopped salads, and hearty soups. But don’t let those distract you from the cream puffs, shrouded in molten chocolate ganache, or palmsized tarts of lemon curd topped with fresh fruit or meringue: Sweets are this shop’s reason for being. 802-336-2126; sweetsimones.com BARBECUE VERMONT MAPLE BBQ, RANDOLPH

For years, Vermont Maple BBQ owners Pauline Poulin and David Langhans dished out their superlative sweetwood-smoked meats, pulledpork quesadillas, and poutines from a trailer near I-89 in Randolph. Then, after locals begged them to open a restaurant, they moved into a village storefront in December 2015. Brisket, ribs, and down-home sides flew out the door in unprecedented amounts—that is, until a fire leveled the place four months later. With help from regulars, the duo recommissioned their little red trailer, which can be found parked close to their Route 12 home when the weather’s warm. 802-282-1012; vtbbq.com BRUNCH KISMET, MONTPELIER

When perusing brunch menus, it’s easy to get lost in a sea of French toast, home fries, and crab 152 |

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cake Benedicts. But Kismet chef Crystal Maderia stocks her larder with uncommon, usually organic produce from local farmers, many of whom grow special crops just for her. At brunch, that might manifest as smoked vegetable hash or a bubbling skillet of Portuguese baked eggs with garlicky tomato sofrito and handmade ricotta. 802-223-8646; kismetkitchens.com DINER CHELSEA ROYAL DINER, WEST BRATTLEBORO

At this 1938 Worcester Lunch Car diner, as at any good dinette, the servers are friendly and quick with a coffee top-off, but the low prices and starchy fare belie the fact that much of the food is local. The eggs come from the owner’s backyard flock; the chicken-fried cutlet on a blue plate special hails from a nearby farm. And the ice cream at the diner’s roadside summer stand? That’s handmade in-house, just like everything else. 802-254-8399; chelsearoyaldiner.com FARMERS’ MARKET NORWICH FARMERS’ MARKET, NORWICH

Along the Vermont–New Hampshire border, the Connecticut River is a ribbon of blue bordered by fertile bottomland farm fields. Over the years, the Upper Valley’s agricultural locus has evolved from sheep to dairy to organic vegetables. In Norwich, a bustling Saturday market showcases the area’s finest, freshest food, with displays from 50-plus vendors. Start your tour with buttery croissants from Umpelby’s Bakery & Café, then sample the farmhouse cheeses from Woodcock Farm. For dessert? Just-picked fruit from Four Corners Farm, which keeps the strawberries coming from June through October. norwichfarmersmarket.org ICE CREAM CANTEEN CREEMEE COMPANY, WAITSFIELD

When chef Charlie Menard ditched his longtime gig at the upscale Inn at Round Barn Farm to open a creemee stand, he wasn’t looking to sling premade ice cream and frozen hot dogs. At Menard’s year-round snack bar, the handmade dairy confections range from basic

f lavors—chocolate, vanilla, maple, lemon—to exotic cones topped with extravagant clouds of maple cotton candy. Our pick? The chocolatedipped banana-cream waffle cone sundae—with or without hunks of cocoa-covered bacon and banana chips. 802-496-6003; canteencreemee.com NEW RESTAURANT THE DAILY CATCH, WOODSTOCK

In 2018, Vermonters became privy to a fact that Bostonians have been in on for years: The Freddura family knows its fish. Paul Freddura’s original “calamari café,” the Daily Catch, opened in Boston’s North End in 1973; these days, it’s a line-out-the-door spot for things like superfresh crispy-fried squid and perfect linguine whiteclam. Maria Freddura opened a village outpost in Woodstock last September, and already the kitchen hums like a well-oiled machine. The seafood—hand-picked and processed on Boston’s docks—is clean and fresh, the pastas al dente and riddled with garlic, and the service casual yet efficient as ever. 802-332-4005; thedailycatch.com SPECIAL-OCCASION SPLURGE SIMON PEARCE, QUECHEE

In a historic mill above the Ottauquechee River Falls, one could spend hours watching Simon Pearce’s artisans shape, turn, and twist molten glass into tumblers, bowls, candlesticks, and pitchers. In the atelier’s polished upstairs dining room, that glassware goes to work, corralling wines from the restaurant’s inspiring 20-page list along with inventive cocktails. The artistry extends to the kitchen, where chefs plate approachable favorites—steak frites and panseared trout—and creative, occasion-worthy fare such as hay-roasted lamb shoulder with herbed tagliatelle, and glowing white halibut crusted in hazelnuts. 802-295-1470; simonpearce.com WATERFRONT DINING FIRE TOWER PIZZA, ELMORE

In summer, a state park draws visitors to tiny Elmore, where the only place to eat is the general store—specifically, Fire Tower Pizza, tucked into the back of the retail space. Elmore Mountain Bread’s Blair Marvin supplies the pizzeria with tangy raw sourdough, and at the oven, chef Jimmy Kalp spins it into thin-crust pies topped with cured meats and fresh veggies from Jupiter Farm, right across the street. And while the pizza alone is well worth a visit, it’s even better when eaten on the back deck, with views of Lake Elmore and the ridgeline beyond. 802-8882296; firetowerpizza.com

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ADVERTORIAL

INN to INN WALKING TOUR

MAP ILLUSTR ATION BY M I C H A E L B Y E R S

VERMONT

WALK FROM INN-TO-INN AND SEE VERMONT AT 10 MILES A DAY The “Vermont Inn-to-Inn Walking Tour” is a four-day, selfguided walk averaging 10 miles a day, mainly through old country roads of gravel and through the villages of Chester, Weston, Proctorsville and Ludlow. The four historic inns–Colonial House Inn & Motel, Inn Victoria, Golden Stage Inn, and The Pettigrew are linked by their owners’ shared love of Vermont and a commitment to their undertheradar walking tour. The oldest and longest running tour of its kind in the state, Vermont Innto-Inn Walking Tour is well established and focused on guest safety and comfort

your day with refreshments and a home-cooked meal; and, in the morning, send you on your way with a hearty breakfast, snacks for the road, a map of your walking route, and best wishes for a pleasant day. Its a large circle divided by four Inns; you end up back at the same inn you started at four days earlier. A ﬁnal feature that sets this tour apart from so many others? You’re on your own, so you can set your own pace. Walk alone or with friends; do as much or as little of the walk as you like. Basically, the tour is as idiosyncratic as the state in which you’re walking. Join us from mid-May through the end of October.

It’s simple and efﬁcient. The innkeepers transport your bags door to door, Vermont sherpa-style; greet you at the end of

833-Inn-2-Inn (833-466-2466) www.VermontInntoInnWalking.com

THE WALK PART 1: (13 miles)

PART 2: (9 miles)

PART 3: (6.8 miles)

PART 4: (11 miles)

INN VICTORIA

GOLDEN STAGE INN

THE PETTIGREW INN

THE COLONIAL HOUSE INN

13 Pleasant St., Ludlow, VT 802-228-4846 PettigrewInn.com

287 Route 100, Weston, VT 802-824-6286 CoHoInn.com

INN VICTORIA TO GOLDEN STAGE INN 321 Main St., Chester, VT 802-875-4288 InnVictoria.com

GOLDEN STAGE INN TO THE PETTIGREW INN 399 Depot St., Proctorsville, VT 802-226-7744 GoldenStageInn.com

THE PETTIGREW INN TO THE COLONIAL HOUSE INN

THE COLONIAL HOUSE INN & MOTEL TO INN VICTORIA

“It’s a meditative walk. Long before the village of Chester appears and I’ve come full circle, I realize that my life has become breathtakingly simple in the last few days. I walk; I look at wildﬂowers; I avoid poison ivy; I take a deep breath and listen to nature singing; I wonder what’s up ahead; I try to remember to look back from time to time. Occasionally I hum–and then try to get the song out of my head. “And then I take another step. Am I closer or farther away? It’s my path, my walk. I get to decide.” –Annie Graves, Yankee Magazine, May/June 2012 | To read more, visit: NewEngland.com/Inn

March 23–August 25

VERMONT

LODGING

F R E E DOM I N T H E W I L DS

B&B FOUR CHIMNEYS INN, BENNINGTON

Towering pines punctuate the grounds at this welcoming inn, which dates back to a 1783 parsonage. Though fire razed that structure over a century ago, a wealthy New England businessman erected the current home, with its bay windows façade and many fireplaces, in 1910. It’s hard to imagine a morning meal more picturesque (and tasty) than just-flipped flapjacks drowning in maple syrup in this light-flooded dining room. 802-447-3500; fourchimneys.com

Early Adirondack paintings, selections from the artist’s Stone Series, diaries, and related ephemera illuminate the connection between the human spirit and nature.

shelburnemuseum.org

Harold Weston, Sunrise from Marcy (detail), 1922. Oil on canvas, 16 x 22 in. Private Collection. © Harold Weston Foundation. Photography by Andy Duback.

CAMPGROUND BRIGHTON STATE PARK, ISLAND POND

Deep in the craggy Northeast Kingdom, scrub oak and native blueberry bushes hem in the edges of Brighton State Park’s Spectacle Pond. On the pond’s western shore, 54 tent sites, 23 lean-tos, and f ive rental cabins play host to overnight visitors. Seeking extra serenity or easy lakefront access? Hit the high-numbered sites in the park ’s northern loop, where the peace and quiet are interrupted only by the loon’s trill. 802-723-4360; vtstateparks.com ECO-FRIENDLY LODGING VERMONT TREE CABIN, WATERFORD AND COVENTRY

A relaxing retreat for all seasons

75 Main Street 802-447-1571 Bennington, Vermont

ART HISTORY INNOVATION

Fields of Change: 1960s Vermont June 29 November 3

Color Fields: 1960s Bennington Modernism June 29 December 30

Marilou and Andrew Kozak take tiny-house living to new heights with their canopy-level cabins. Ascend a long staircase to experience life in the trees at the hillside abode in Waterford, or climb the yellow birch steps that spiral to a bedroom loft in the Coventry cabin on Walker Pond. Both feature decks with views and a cedar hot tub—cold Vermont beers, optional. 802-473-6303; vermonttreecabin.com HISTORIC VIBE THE INN AT WEATHERSFIELD, PERKINSVILLE

This inn is known best for culinary offerings that include a white-tablecloth restaurant, cooking classes, and larders stocked from the on-site gardens. But history buffs staying in the 12 rooms will also note the original pine floors, burnished by 225 years of footsteps, and the sawyers’ marks on the beams overhead, cut in 1792. Modern updates—whirlpool tubs, luxe linens, f lat-screen TVs—mean you can soak in the history without living like a colonist. 802-263-9217; weathersfieldinn.com KID-FRIENDLY LODGING TYLER PLACE FAMILY RESORT, HIGHGATE SPRINGS

ALSO ON VIEW

Contemporary and Outsider Art • 20th Century Modernists Paintings by Grandma Moses • Early Vermont History 717 Maple Street | Stowe, VT 05672 | 802-253-2229 brasslanterninn.com | info@brasslanterninn.com

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benningtonmuseum.org for full exhibition schedule Vietnam Moratorium Rally, 1969 (detail). Photograph by Greg Guma Paul Feeley (1910-1966). Untitled (Green Eye), 1962 (detail). Oil-based enamel on canvas, 48 x 60 inches. Private Collection

This all-inclusive resort near the top of Lake Champlain offers water sports for bigger kids and adults, story time and age-appropriate play for toddlers, and everything needed to accommodate infants. And when you’re ready for a vacation from the kids? Book a staff sitter and mingle with other grownups during a nightly booze cruise. 802-868-4000; tylerplace.com

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LUXURY STAY THE LODGE AT SPRUCE PEAK, STOWE

Just steps from the ski lifts, the Lodge at Spruce Peak sets a posh but down-to-earth standard for luxury lodgings. Rooms in the sprawling timber-frame structure complement creature comforts with hop-to-it service and homegrown touches … and if you’re lucky, someone might just slip you an invite to the supersecret subterranean Line House speakeasy for an evening of hobnobbing and custom cocktails. 802282-4625; sprucepeak.com NEW HOTEL MAIN & MOUNTAIN, LUDLOW

IT ’S MORE TH A N A DES TIN ATION .

IT’S A TR A DITION. This summer, start your own tradition with us. BasinHarbor.com • 800-622-4000

travel

Old-school accommodations take on a polished sheen at Ludlow’s hip boutique motel. Wood-slab headboards lend rustic charm to standard queen rooms, while family accommodations include bunk beds for kiddos and suites that sleep up to seven. There’s no restaurant, but food trucks frequent the patio year-round, and weekend patio parties put a cool spin on the campfire jams of yore, with live music and seating around a masonry fire pit. 802-242-1608; mainandmountain.com PET-FRIENDLY LODGING DERBY LINE VILLAGE INN, DERBY LINE

WALK-TO-EVERYTHING LODGING HOTEL VERMONT, BURLINGTON

Hotel Vermont guests could spend many happy, well-fed days while barely leaving their Cherry Street environs: On the hotel’s ground floor, Hen of the Wood offers some of the best food in town, and the hotel lobby provides a fine people-watching scene. Then again, all of the Queen City’s amenities are just steps away. So why not don your walking shoes to windowshop on Church Street, sip a beer on the patio at the Farmhouse Tap & Grill, or head to City Hall Park for the Saturday farmers’ market? 802-651-0080; hotelvt.com

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6308 Shelburne Rd. (Rt. 7) • Shelburne, VT

WELLNESS RETREAT WOODSTOCK INN & RESORT, WOODSTOCK

In quiet, light-filled rooms where Rockefellers once walked, spa visitors disrobe for Swedish and Himalayan hot-stone massages, detoxify with espresso-laced volcanic mud treatments, and recalibrate their systems with Reiki and reflexology sessions. At the inn’s farm-to-table restaurant, they refuel with thoughtfully crafted meals. And when the day is done? Cedar-sauna steam baths, followed by a dip in the patio whirlpool. 888-338-2745; woodstockinn.com

MAY | JUNE 2019

vermont

Dog bowls on the front steps bid “Hallo” to four-legged visitors, who care less for the antique furnishings in the five well-appointed, country-chic rooms than they do for a romp on the inn’s expansive lawn. And on the off chance you don’t f inish your supper of handmade jägerschnitzel or pasta Piemontese at chef Fritz Halbedl’s Austrian-inf lected on-site restaurant, you won’t have to travel far with the doggy bag. 802-873-5071; derbylinevillageinn.com

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Shop • Tastings & Tours • Events • Wine Club

ShelburneVineyard.com

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Burlington, VT

g nin & joi hard d t e a rc us th rm O e Tr t i n Vis tt Fa Sto o e Sc Th

VERMONT

ATTRACTIONS BEACH WILLOUGHBY LAKE BEACH, WESTMORE

Rudyard Kipling slept here. You can too!

Memorable Vacations in Five Authentically-Restored Historic Vermont Homes The whole house is yours!

LandmarkTrustUSA.org Dummerston, VT 802.254.6868

Few Vermont locales are more iconic (or more often photographed) than the Willoughby Gap. Though the glacier that cleaved the dueling facades of Mount Pisgah and Mount Hor has long melted away, f jordlike Lake Willoughby remains, with pristine water and stunning views. At the north end of the spring-fed lake is a natural quarter-mile beach, clean and sandy and made for high-summer sunbathing and shallow-water children’s play. The scenery’s all right, too. fpr.vermont.gov BREWERY EXPERIENCE FOAM BREWERS, BURLINGTON

In 2017, RateBeer named Burlington’s funloving Waterfront Park brewhouse one of the world’s 10 best new breweries. Inside the cavernous brick space—a former door factory built in 1853—brewers Todd Haire and Bobby Grimm craft small-batch beers using Champlain Valley grains malted at Bristol’s Peterson Quality Malt. Steps from the brew kettle, drinkers sip resinous IPAs, delicate saisons, and barrel-aged sours f lavored with summer fruits and herbs, while tapping their toes to the live bands that play several nights a week. 802399-2511; foambrewers.com DAY HIKE MOUNT MANSFIELD VIA BUTLER LODGE TRAIL, UNDERHILL

Vermont’s Most Beautiful Address Family First — No more “are we there yets,” never another “how much longer?” Everything you need for a perfect family vacation is right here. The Woodstock Inn & Resort is New England’s most luxurious family destination.

866.400.7551 Woodstock, Vermont www.woodstockinn.com 156 |

There are many ways to climb Vermont’s highest peak. For hikers who love life above the tree line, one of Mansfield’s lesser-traveled paths offers a straight shot to the ridge. From the trailhead on Stevensville Road in Underhill, Butler Lodge Trail warms up with a half mile through hardwoods before shooting steeply uphill. After 1.8 miles and 1,600 vertical feet, the trail arrives at its namesake structure. Pause for a snack, then enter the krummholz via the Wampahoofus Trail. From the Chin, ambitious hikers can tag Mansfield’s many summits via the Long Trail, or enjoy lunch on high before heading back down again. vtstateparks.com HISTORICAL EXPERIENCE JUSTIN MORRILL HOMESTEAD, STRAFFORD

Among the legislative achievements of U.S. Senator Justin Morrill (1810–1898) were establishing the Library of Congress and earmarking public lands for formal education. In Strafford, the statesman’s 1851 Gothic Revival home offers a window into life c. 1850. During hourly home tours, curator Emily Howe leads visitors through Morrill’s rooms, noting details: a nursery window to look in on a napping baby, the nation’s oldest intact wall-to-wall carpeting, hand-painted murals on window screens. As the tour goes on, it starts to feel personal—like a stroll down a great man’s memory lane. For the historically inclined, it’s a trip worth taking. 802-765-4288; morrillhomestead.org

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KID-FRIENDLY ATTRACTION JAY PEAK PUMPHOUSE, JAY

Together is our favorite Vacation Spot.

No matter the weather outside, at Jay Peak’s 50,000-square-foot indoor water park it’s always a balmy 87 degrees. Serpentine water slides deliver revelers from a high catwalk to the pool, adrenaline junkies can catch a buzz in the Chute (a 20-second thrill-slide with a 360-degree turn), and little squirts find fun in the kid zone. 802-988-2710; jaypeakresort.com MADE-IN-VERMONT SHOP FROG HOLLOW, BURLINGTON

Community activist Allen Johnson founded Frog Hollow as a shared artisan workspace and gallery in Middlebury in 1971. The organization added a Burlington gallery in 1991; since then, the latter has become a destination for handmade Vermont wares. A juried application process ensures that everything—from stoneware bowls to jewelry, furniture, and more— exemplify the finest craftsmanship the state has to offer. 802-863-6458; froghollow.org PICK-YOUR-OWN OWL’S HEAD BLUEBERRY FARM, RICHMOND

Local musicians strum ballads in the gloaming on midsummer nights, as pickers wander the long, high-bush rows, filling baskets with plump fruit. At the checkout stand, farmers Rachel and Ryan Gray are quick with a friendly dinner recommendation or scenicroute directions as foragers head homeward. 802-434-3887; owlsheadfarm.com

This is our spruce Peak.

AT SPRUCE PEAK

With room for everyone, the exclusive 1-, 2-, and 3-bedroom Penthouses at Spruce Peak are now accepting reservations for family journeys of an elevated nature.

www.sprucepeak.com/yankee | 844.382.2838

QUIRKY MUSEUM THE MUSEUM OF EVERYDAY LIFE, GLOVER

From the side of Route 16, the Museum of Everyday Life looks like any other derelict old barn. But inside the homespun object-archive, “chief operating philosopher” Clare Dolan and her team of plebeian curators—many connected with Glover’s Bread & Puppet Theatre—build illuminating exhibitions around everything from dust to safety pins, matches, keys, and mirrors. The space is cluttered, as one might expect, and dust mite–phobes should probably beware. But where else could one go to learn, in vivid detail, the soup-tonuts human history of, say, the toothbrush? museumofeverydaylife.org SMALL-TOWN BOOKSTORE SANDY’S BOOKS & BAKERY, ROCHESTER

Walking into Rochester’s bookstore-café is like wandering into an old house, except that—as in a dream—the rooms are filled with books. There’s a little café off to the side, with freshbaked scones and croissants and people at tables drinking espresso and talking about a hundred different things. But it’s not a dream. It’s real life, and—given owner Sandy Lincoln’s love of food and the written word—many of the books are sustenance-related. That means cookbooks, but also tomes on food politics, agriculture, and homesteading. Things don’t get much more Vermont-y than that. 802-767-4258

MAY | JUNE 2019

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BEST OF NEW ENGL AND

CONNECTICUT DINING BARBECUE BEAR’S SMOKEHOUSE AT THE STACK, NEW HAVEN

This is one BBQ behemoth, with seating for 200 indoors, another 250 in the biergarten, and hundreds more on the lawn of the amphitheater, where local artists will perform this inaugural summer season. Come hungry for favorites perfected at Bear’s three Hartford-area outposts (such as the stack of cornbread, mac and cheese, and smoky meat known as the Bear Attack), plus New Haven–made Lamberti’s sausages given the low-and-slow treatment. And come thirsty, too: The in-house brewery is a test lab for collaborations with regional brewers. 203-350-9060; bearsbbq.com/new-haven BRUNCH FRESH SALT, OLD SAYBROOK

It takes two rooms to contain this every-Sunday spread, so settle into a marina-view indoor or outdoor table and don’t expect to be back to your car—or boat—for hours. There’s no compromising when it comes to this gustatory odyssey that can hardly be called a buffet, so much is sliced or cooked to order before your eyes at the waff le, omelet, pasta, and carving stations. For seafood fans, the heaping raw bar alone is worth the allyou-can-savor price. 860-388-1111; saybrook.com DINER O’ROURKE’S DINER, MIDDLETOWN

The next-level fare that springs from the tireless mind of chef-owner Brian O’Rourke makes the battle for diner supremacy in Connecticut no contest (think: bacon vs. candied jalapeño bacon). Beloved dishes such as Irish soda bread French toast are available all day, but once lunchtime kicks in, steamed cheeseburgers are the “when in Connecticut” choice most folks gravitate toward—even 2018’s surprise visitor, Harrison Ford. 860-346-6101; orourkesmiddletown.com FARMERS’ MARKET STONINGTON VILLAGE FARMERS’ MARKET, STONINGTON

Something’s fishy about this Saturday morning tradition—that’s what makes Stonington’s farmers’ market distinct in a sea of over 100 statewide. Bring an ice-filled cooler, because you’ll be tempted by Stonington Seafood Harvesters’ famous Bomster scallops before you even reach the field beside the town dock, where freshcaught fish is as enticingly displayed as the seasonal produce. Village walking tours depart from 158 |

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the market at 11 a.m. June through August. 860405-5434; sviastonington.org/farmers-market FRIED CLAMS THE SANDPIPER RESTAURANT, EAST HAVEN

It’s a chicken-or-egg dilemma: whether to praise first the plump, pillowy whole bellies or their light, translucent-gold batter. Generous plates of these crisp-fried, oceany mouthfuls give you time to ponder if it’s one, the other, or just this restaurant’s “X” factors that make its clams second to none on the Connecticut shoreline. There are, after all, certain advantages to being open and on your fried-fare game year-round. 203469-7544; sandpipereasthaven.com ICE CREAM FERRIS ACRES CREAMERY, NEWTOWN

This fifth-generation farm has grown something new since 2003: a devout crop of ice cream fans. They come to milkshake away their cares in this folk-art scene of red barns and stone-walled cow pastures. There are frozen treats for all, including nondairy and allergen-free options, and prices are so down-to-earth you may be tempted to stack up scoops of everything from the s’mores-inspired Campfire to the cherrystudded chocolate-almond Bada Bing. 203426-8803; ferrisacrescreamery.com LOBSTER ROLL LOBSTERCRAFT, FAIRFIELD

Lobster and steak cuddled up in one bun is such a “Eureka!” taste combo, you’ll wonder why it took so long for surf and turf to get together under a light cover of garlic aioli. If you’re a purist, no sweat: Mike Harden—lobsterman turned food truck owner turned restaurateur—perfected Connecticut’s signature sweet-butter-soaked hot lobster roll before retooling it. The tastiest variation of all? The sushi-style California, sharpdressed in cucumber, avocado, and wasabicharged soy sauce. 203-292-5350; lobstercraft.com NEW RESTAURANT PORRÓN & PIÑA, HARTFORD

Telegenic restaurateur Tyler Anderson of Top Chef fame opened this dual-concept restaurant in 2018: Porrón is a gustatory journey to Spain, while Piña is a gourmet doughnut and coffee

shop by day and a craft cocktail bar by night. Launch into your day with Connecticut-roasted Giv coffee and pastry chef Kristin Eddy’s playful breakfast sweets. Stop back in the eve for freshshaved ham bar selections and cervezas, or convene over colorful tapas plates in the brick-walled restaurant. Dishes such as smoked, sherry-glazed duck legs with spiced yogurt honor the spirit, color, and flavor of the Iberian peninsula while departing for intriguing places you can only get to from here. 860-904-2101; porronandpina.com

LODGING B&B THE RIVERWIND INN, DEEP RIVER

Nab a front porch rocker. Plunk the piano keys. Congregate with not-for-long strangers over plates of pesto-splashed poached eggs Caprese on homemade English muffins. Kick back by the fire pit. Make country-cozy living spaces your own. Innkeepers Stacie and Mike DiNello didn’t spend 10 years scouring the East Coast for the right opportunity to have your stay be anything less than stellar. In just two years, they’ve given a tired 1854 inn a facelift and a jovial, warm new heart. 860-526-2014; riverwindinn.com HISTORIC VIBE SPRING HILL INN, STORRS

Embrace the creak of old floorboards or fire up the noise-canceling machine—this inn, where lodgers have slumbered for centuries, is simultaneously modern and authentically colonial. In reviving this “UConn country” landmark and its restaurant, owners Diane and Lee Lambert have preserved details like wavy window glass and peg-joined timber columns. Four of the six guest rooms are in the c. 1734 section, but all have down comforters—so taking scratch-baked breakfast goodies back to bed is tempting. 860477-1199; springhillinnct.com LUXURY STAY MAYFLOWER INN & SPA, WASHINGTON

Subtle changes make Connecticut’s most iconic luxury property a place to rediscover. Participate in such bespoke experiences as a cheese-making class at a family farm, or unwind in this 58-acre estate’s new outdoor lounge areas. Staffers seem to almost intuit guests’ needs, delivering a poolside lunch or appearing with a snuggly wrap as soon as it gets chilly on the garden-view dining terrace. And it’s not unusual to have the worldclass spa practically to yourself. 860-868-9466; gracehotels.com/mayflower

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NEW INN GRAYBARNS ON THE SILVERMINE RIVER, NORWALK

The long-shuttered Silvermine Tavern, where Elizabeth Taylor, Spencer Tracy, and Lauren Bacall ducked the spotlight, has been reconstructed and reinvented by the Glazer Group, and the result is stunning and nostalgic. The most primo of the c. 1810 inn’s six rustic-ritzy king suites have decks overlooking the river, which once powered the property’s mill (now a four-bedroom vacation rental). In-room wellness treatments and complimentary bars make staying in appealing, but the riverview tavern beckons. It’s a sunlight-splashed, homey space for cocktails and seasonally inspired fare. 203-489-9000; graybarns.com

Spend the Day Hear tales of the artists who stayed here a century ago. Discuss art in the galleries. Have lunch on the veranda. Stroll the gardens or even recreate them on our Make-a-Painting Sundays. A day of simple pleasures will certainly be had.

PET-FRIENDLY LODGING INTERLAKEN INN, LAKEVILLE

Do your canine companions relish lake dips, canoe rides, and woodland hikes? Give them the good news: This 30-acre resort with its own beach and boat dock on Lake Wononscopomuc has eight pet-friendly, ground-level, outdoor-access rooms at Woodside House. Each has a queen bed, sleeper sofa, and cushy pet bed, so the whole family can rest easy. And creature comforts for you—including a heated outdoor pool, spa, and restaurant—are steps away. 860-435-9878; interlakeninn.com

96 Lyme Street, Old Lyme, CT Exit 70 off of I-95 FlorenceGriswoldMuseum.org • 860.434.5542

UPDATED HOTEL HOTEL HI-HO, FAIRFIELD

The red neon MOTEL HI-HO letters are six feet tall—you can’t miss ’em from the Merritt Parkway—so calling this 40-room property a hidden gem is a stretch. And yet even those who heigh-ho off to work this way don’t realize the 1960 motel has undergone a metamorphosis: classy outside, with a whitewashed facade and ornate railings, and groovy and high-tech inside, with rooms outfitted with Andy Warhol quotes and Roku devices. Virtual check-in means you’ll arrive hassle-free; complimentary breakfast and a tapas bar mean you won’t go hungry. 203-259-5264; hotelhiho.com WATERFRONT LODGING INN AT HARBOR HILL MARINA, NIANTIC

As Niantic’s stature has swelled to rival Mystic’s, this perfectly situated B&B has expanded too. You’ll love breakfasting with a view of boats heading out of the harbor: Take homemade treats like ricotta pancakes and pistachio cake outside to the wraparound porch or patio. Then select one of the innkeepers’ secret-filled itineraries hanging from the main staircase, and set out on a coastal escapade. 860-7390331; innharborhill.com

BYOB

Open Friday, Saturday, Sunday 11:30am-7pm as of May 3 Open Daily starting Memorial Day Weekend 11:30am-9pm 117 Pearl Street, Noank 860-536-7719 abbottslobster.com

BYOB

WELLNESS RETREAT MOUNTAIN VIEW GREEN RETREAT, NORFOLK

Tech entrepreneur Wendy Roberts’s latest brainchild is a place to reboot your operating system. With husband Michael Dillon, she opened this seven-room hideaway in 2018, softening the Victorian decor of the former

MAY | JUNE 2019

Open Friday, Saturday, Sunday 11:30am - 7pm as of May 10 Open Daily starting Memorial Day 11:30am – 8:30pm 145 Pearl Street, Noank 860-572-2779 costellosclamshack.com | 159

CONNECTICUT

Mountain View Inn with Zen touches. Customcrafted breakfasts—featuring fresh-squeezedjuice drinks and organic hot and raw dishes— recharge guests, as do garden walks and the petite spa’s eclectic treatments. 860-542-7941; mountainviewgreenretreat2.com

ATTRACTIONS BREWERY EXPERIENCE KINSMEN BREWING, MILLDALE

When this brewery opened two years ago in a 19th-century factory with one couch and a bring-your-own-glassware policy, nobody was deterred—the beers were that good. Fastforward to now, and the taproom resembles an Arthurian lair. Beer fans stay for hours, playing games and sharing Sauced’s gourmet pizzas (the soppressata-and-honey-topped Hot Lips is the one to try). The Farmington Canal Trail runs right past the patio, and only cyclists with extraordinary willpower can resist popping in for a pint. 860-578-4778; kinsmenbrewing.com HISTORICAL EXPERIENCE WIGWAM ESCAPE AT THE INSTITUTE FOR AMERICAN INDIAN STUDIES, WASHINGTON

The instructions seem basic: Load your backpack with water, two cooked meals, and medi-

cine for your ailing neighbors. But this is 1518. And like the native peoples who inhabited the woodlands surrounding this museum complex, you’ll need intuition, patience, knowledge, and collaborative skills to gather and hunt for necessities. This hourlong escape-room immersion for three to seven players aims to attract teens and adults ready to solve problems the ancient-school way. 860-868-0510; wigwamescape.com KID-FRIENDLY ATTRACTION BRADLEY MOUNTAIN FARM, SOUTHINGTON

Playing with goats makes everyone feel like a kid, so don’t feel bad if you’re secretly more excited about “Goats N’ Pajamas” than your offspring are. You’ll all love brushing and feeding these frenetic animals, wriggling them into jammies, and reading a story (just try not to let them munch on Goodnight Moon). With free Open Farm Sundays and more signature experiences—including goat yoga, walks, soap-making workshops, and even Goatee Academy for would-be farmers—it’s no wonder some families opt to become official Goat Nannies, for the perks and the joy of sustaining this 200-year-old farm. 860-385-4628; bradleymountainfarm.com MADE-IN-CONNECTICUT SHOP MYSTIC KNOTWORK, MYSTIC

“Knotwork is a book with no last page,” said the late Alton Beaudoin in a 1964 Yankee interview.

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He had not yet completed his masterpiece: a fancywork frame that hangs in the larger of two open-to-the-public workshops where grandson Matt and fellow artisans create expertly tied rope bracelets, wreaths, and other nautical wearables and home accents. Your purchases—and photos you share of Alton’s sennit frame, a five-year labor made with more than 110 miles of cordage—keep the story flowing. 860-889-3793; mysticknotwork.com NATURE EXPERIENCE HUMMOCK ISLAND OYSTER TOURS, WESTPORT

A quick boat trip on a tidal pond, and you’re in the midst of an unimaginably alluring artisanal oyster farm, where you’ll learn how the Northrop family has reactivated their ancestors’ 18th-century shellfishing grounds using 21st-century sustainable aquaculture practices. This 90-minute adventure also includes shucking instruction and unlimited raw oysters to pair with whatever you’ve BYOB’ed. 203-3401311; hummockisland.com NEW CULTURAL ATTRACTION NEW ENGLAND MOTORCYCLE MUSEUM, VERNON

Housed in an old textile mill gorgeously restored with high-gloss wood floors and distressed brick walls, this is the East Coast’s largest museum devoted to two-wheeled transportation. Dreams for the 150,000-square-foot factory complex are even bigger, and with more than 100 vintage and modern bikes already in the collection and acquisitions ramping up, there’s excitement to burn. 860-454-7024; newenglandmotorcyclemuseum.org QUIRKY MUSEUM WITCH’S DUNGEON CLASSIC MOVIE MUSEUM, BRISTOL

Like the Creature from the Black Lagoon— whom you’ ll meet in life-size 3-D —this museum of monsters and movie magic surfaces from out of nowhere each year for the month leading up to Halloween. Founded in 1966, when horror-bilia collector Cortlandt Hull was just 13, the former backyard museum now takes up residence in the Bristol Historical Society. Hull runs the projector, screening black-andwhite flicks; film buffs point out original props, including the last surviving E.T.; and gothcostumed guides lead spine-tingling walks through darkened rooms filled with legendary villains. 860-583-8306; preservehollywood.org THRILL RIDE HIGHFLYER ZIPLINE, MASHANTUCKET

At Foxwoods Resort Casino, you can step off a rooftop 350 feet in the air and f ly at a dizzying 60-plus mph over the lush treetops of an ancient cedar forest. Connecticut’s biggest zipline, which debuted last year, speeds you nearly a mile to your safe landing spot at the Mashantucket Pequot Museum. If ever there were a time to wear a GoPro camera, this is it. 860-312-3597; foxwoodshighflyer.com

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RHODE ISLAND DINING BAKERY, SWEETS SIN, PROVIDENCE

Sin is a lively space—all white-washed brick, ductwork, and wood with a full bar and lookthrough window to the bakery—but it’s quite all right if you only have eyes for the guilty pleasures it displays. By day, you’ll want an oversize pastry, savory biscuit, or whoopie pie with your tea or coffee, which can be flavored with house-made syrups such as smoked honey. At night, seven seasonal dessert-and-cocktail pairings are as sinful as their names (Greed, Lust, Envy, etc.) suggest. 401-369-8427; eatwicked.com BARBECUE GREAT NORTHERN BBQ CO., PROVIDENCE

Park your preconceptions at the curb: This isn’t Southern, Texas-style, or Midwestern barbecue. Jimmy James Caruso—chef, master of the flames, and unapologetic carnivore—is brazenly creating New England’s own slow-smoked cuisine with a spice profile unlike anything on the map. (That’s sumac, for example, giving the rib rub its mysterious zing.) Wow-sized specials, like the 46-ounce tomahawk steak, butter-aged for 45 days, and 10-hour confit local pig head with house-made molé are worth a road trip if you have a few adventurous friends with big appetites. 401-421-1513; greatnorthernbbqco.com BRUNCH CHAPEL GRILLE, CRANSTON

Want to coax a smile from a chef who’s been juggling frying pans for hours? Say “Cook me your best pasta,” and watch the penne, shrimp, chicken, and veggies dance in a vodka sauce bath. This all-you-can-eat Sunday brunch—served beneath the chandeliered ceiling of an architecturally magnificent 1891 stone church—has understandably devout fans. It’s part cooking theater, with chef-staffed omelet and carving stations, and part “Wow, I want to try all of this” buffet. And for $9.99 more, it’s practically sacrilegious not to tack on unlimited made-bythe-glass sangria, mimosas, and bloody Marys. 401-944-4900; chapelgrilleri.com DELI MOUSIE’S DELI, WARWICK

You’re gonna need a bigger mouth... For 35 years, this strip-mall deli has been overfilling tummies with “Mousie’s Mighty Mouthfulls” sandwiches. Wrapping your brain around the under-$9 price is as tricky as attacking colossal

MAY | JUNE 2019

MORE ONLINE! Find editors’ picks for the best summer events in Rhode Island at newengland.com/ri-events-2019.

creations like the Brando, loaded with hot roast beef, cream cheese, lettuce, onion, and Mousie’s own horseradish sauce. Even a “half ”—which is actually a whole sandwich with more modest contents—is a handful. You’ll need a fork if you go big, especially for hot sandwiches: Meat and cheese come out of the antique hand-pumped steamer tender and oozy-licious. 401-737-3696 DINER MODERN DINER, PAWTUCKET

Simultaneously a trailblazer and one of the last of its kind, this zippy-looking Sterling Streamliner diner has been a community hub and source of pride since 1941. The “Modern” name may seem oxymoronic for a cash-only, all-daybreakfast spot with a perfectly retro interior, a nostalgic soup-to-meatloaf menu, and National Register of Historic Places status. But wait till you see the playful specials concocted in chef Nick Demou’s scratch kitchen—linguica hash omelets, lobster grits, butterscotch coconut almond pancakes, bacon-garnished breakfast cocktails—each one a visual and gustatory treat that explains the out-the-door lines. 401-7268390; moderndinerri.com FRIED CLAMS TWO LITTLE FISH, WESTERLY

On a sun-drenched day, you can’t beat sitting on the deck of this seasonal shack with a plate of crunchy-fried, sweet whole bellies or strips and hand-cut onion rings, especially if you have nothing more to do than watch Wuskenau Beach dune grasses ripple. Beloved for its reasonable prices and community-mindedness, this family business’s commitment to serving wild-caught, sustainable, close-to-home seafood is so strong, on rare occasions when wild weather keeps clam boats ashore, you may find this menu item MIA. 401-348-9941; twolittlefishseafood.com ICE CREAM THE ICE CREAM MACHINE CO., CUMBERLAND

Your eyes will pop when you see how much homemade ice cream is plopped on kiddie cones at this roadside stand, and it all gets gloriously bigger from there. Waff le cones are epic; sundaes (try the hot apple crisp) look like an explosion of cherry-topped whipped cream. Act fast

to capture snaps of colorful ice cream f lavors like Dinosaur Crunch and Purple Cow. Inside, there’s a wall of penny candy bins and case of fresh-made fudge in 16 flavors—and these takehome treats, thankfully, won’t melt. 401-3335053; icecreampie.com NEW RESTAURANT BIG KING, PROVIDENCE

In the tunnel-like 21-seat space where James Mark incubated his acclaimed restaurant, North (now in roomier Dean Hotel digs), the irreverently brilliant chef-preneur is back with a Japanese-inspired dining experience that is all about trust. You won’t find menus online. Make reservations anyway. Then, spend languid hours allowing well-choreographed chefs to deliver four or six courses or à la carte choices, with or without sake pairings. Dishes du jour are handscribbled in a notebook, whose back pages taunt foodies with missed opportunities: Salt Pond oysters, grilled pork and daikon, rock crab rice, almost-raw lobster. bigkingpvd.com WATERFRONT DINING WATERMAN GRILLE, PROVIDENCE

On-the-water dining isn’t a three-month phenomenon at this fine-casual restaurant moored in a brick Victorian bridge gatehouse. Heaters and awnings extend the al fresco season on the wraparound deck, and there are Seekonk River views from practically every indoor table, too. Brown University owns rights to this stretch below the Henderson Bridge, and that keeps the river quiet save for crew boats. It’s the perfect calming ambience for savoring brunch or surf-and-wood-grilled-turf dinner specialties and selections from extensive beer and wine lists. 401-521-9229; watermangrille.com

LODGING B&B MARGIN STREET INN, WESTERLY

Long-time artist and newly minted innkeeper Sarah Cooper’s eye for aesthetics and gift for making guests feel at home has quickly turned this year-old 10-room riverside B&B into yet another diamond in Chuck Royce’s Westerly hospitality portfolio. Like his larger projects— including Ocean House and Watch Hill Inn— the two mid-19th-century mansions that make up Margin Street Inn were just a preservation effort away from renewed elegance. Guests enjoy homemade breakfast spreads, lounging in the shade of the six-acre estate’s enormous | 161

beech trees, and nibbling cheeses and locally cured Soupy in the sunroom. 401-348-8710; marginstreetinn.com

The Newport Home of Doris Duke

680 Bellevue Avenue Newport, RI 401–847–8344

newportrestoration.org/roughpoint Free parking on-site Wheelchair accessible

MURDER

YSTERY

Dinner Train

Newport, Rhode Island’s, rolling speakeasy for food, fun, and felonies!

Follow the clues, question the suspects, and solve the crime. Climb on board our custom-designed theater train for an interactive show and ride along Aquidneck Island. Trains run April to November.

A Aboallrd !

For tickets and information:

www.TrainsRI.com Call 401-295-1203 Wed‐Fri 162 |

CAMPGROUND ASHAWAY RV RESORT BY ZEMAN, BRADFORD

Just 10 miles inland from ocean beaches, yet with so much on-site fun you might not leave once you park, Ashaway is the newest member of Zeman Homes’ RV resort collection. That doesn’t mean changes are afoot, though. Oh sure, there’ll be some new campfire entertainers on Saturday nights. But this eye-pleasing f ive-year-old property’s distinctive amenities—including a mini golf course, radiocontrol car track, kiddie train, and pool—are exactly what appealed to its new owner. Rent a cottage if you’re RV-less and want in on the fun. 401-377-8100; ashawayrvresort.com ECO-FRIENDLY LODGING FORTY 1° NORTH, NEWPORT

Built and operated with respect for its sensitive harborfront location, Rhode Island ’s first hotel to achieve LEED certification has environmental best practices in its very bones. Most eco-conscious touches are subtle, so guests notice only the coolness of thoughtful features like newspapers delivered via iPad, luxuriously thick towels engineered to dry quickly, and a mesmerizing entryway mural made of a sustainable material: seashells. 401-846-8018; 41north.com NEW INN FIREHOUSE INN, NEWPORT

There’s a breakfast lounge now behind the wide arched doors that f iref ighters once charged through to battle Newport blazes. T h is preser vat ion-minded c it y has yet another landmark—the red-brick, slateroofed Newport Fire Department Hose Co. # 6—turned one-of-a-kind inn. Five rooms and a studio are outf itted in contemporary neutrals with just a pop of fiery orange. While architectural details will remind you of the c. 1888 building’s working past, gourmet breakfasts prepared before your eyes, in-room spa services, and chartered outings aboard the motorboat Razzmatazz sound the siren: You’re on vacation. 401-845-9400; firehouseinnri.com PET-FRIENDLY LODGING HOTEL PROVIDENCE, PROVIDENCE

Imagine how tail-waggingly happy traveling canines are to find a pair of plush pet beds in this swanky boutique hotel’s lobby. But the Doggie Lounge, with its perpetually full jar of biscuits, is a mere hint of things to come. Rooms in this arts-and-literature-themed reinvented landmark are outfitted with snuggly beds and treats at check-in. And Yappy Hours in the restaurant’s courtyard on summertime Mondays feature specialty cocktails for you, a bottomless water bowl for your pooch. 401-861-8000; hotelprovidence.com

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RHODE ISL AND

UPDATED HOTEL THE HOTEL MARIA, WESTERLY

WATERFRONT LODGING WEEKAPAUG INN, WESTERLY

Superstorm Sandy’s wrecking of Maria’s Seaside Café and its handful of overnight rooms was a catalyst for the Bellone family to sink their Miscquamicut Beach hospitality roots even deeper. Late matriarch Maria would have adored the rebuilt restaurant and this cheery 31-unit boutique hotel, which opened last July across the street from prime sand. You’ll adore it too: Rooms are cottage-chic and spacious, breakfast is free, cute custom bikes are yours for the borrowing, and your beach bag and towels are waiting. Plus, you’re steps from your pillow if you overindulge on homemade ravioli … or margaritas. 401-622-4000; thehotelmaria.com

With freshwater serenity all around and a nearly two-mile private beach a stroll away, even a brief escape here will whisk you light years from everyday life. Plus, a f leet of watercraft, from a humble pedal boat to the captained Quonnie Queen, make leaving terra firma behind a breeze. Naturalist Mark Bullinger’s rich programming includes crabbing outings for kids, bird-spotting beach walks, and even a weekly chance to turn found seashells and stones into jewelry: a souvenir that will remind you to inhale deeply. 855-679-2995; weekapauginn.com

WALK-TO-EVERYTHING LODGING MILL STREET INN, NEWPORT

Tucked away on an elegant side street, this 1890 millwork factory creatively repurposed as an all-suite hotel couldn’t be more ideally situated. From the rooftop deck, you can survey your good fortune: Newport’s bustling harborfront is a block away, while attraction-lined Bellevue Avenue is a half-mile walk. You can even be at Easton’s Beach and the Cliff Walk in 20 minutes on foot. Breakfast is free, and so is a spread of teatime snacks that’s worth the hike back. 401-849-9500; millstreetinn.com

WELLNESS RETREAT OH! SPA AT OCEAN HOUSE, WATCH HILL

Imagine the healing power of a walk on the beach multiplied until you achieve pure, mindless relaxation. That’s the aim of the OH! Spa therapists, who will work to ensure you feel practically hypnotized from the moment you’re ensconced in this ivory-and-ocean-hued sanctuary. The saltwater lap pool and 24-hour fitness center are reserved for resort guests, but immersive spa experiences—including Wellness Wednesdays, featuring a yoga class, fitness workshop, hour-long massage, facial, and array of personalized well-being tips—are available to day visitors. 401-584-7000; oceanhouseri.com

ATTRACTIONS BEACH BALLARD’S BEACH, BLOCK ISLAND

Even if your budget is more ferry boat than cruise ship, you can savor a Caribbean-style escape this summer. Yup, we’re talking pristine sand, turquoise water, tiki bars, and seafood that spent last night in the Atlantic. Ballard’s is so close to Block Island’s ferry dock, it’ll be no time before you’re grasping a booze-filled pineapple and grooving to live music, playing volleyball with new friends, or ordering local oysters and lobster rolls for delivery to your blanket. Be sure to bring a few extra bucks to rent cushy lounge chairs and an umbrella. 844-405-3275; ballardsbi.com/ballards-beach BREWERY EXPERIENCE TILTED BARN BREWERY, EXETER

It’s been not quite f ive years since Kara and Matt Richardson, Rhode Island’s f irst 21stcentury commercial hops growers, added a brewing operation at her family’s farm. They’ve made such waves with IPAs and other hopyardto-glass ales—poured from 10 taps sold in limited can allotments—it’s taken an epic effort to meet the demands of fans undeterred by the dirt entry road. More expansion is on the horizon,

GET LOST in the

Blackstone River Valley National Heritage Corridor Yes…there is a guide for that! Å Wicked Good Eating… Å The Getting Lost Bucket List… Å Where to Crash… Å Getting Lost on the Wild Side… Å Immersion Shopping… Å Inspiring Stories and… Å Interesting Places to Get Lost! All in the Blackstone River Valley in central Massachusetts and northern Rhode Island, the Birthplace of the American Industrial Revolution.

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RHODE ISL AND

so get there while the experience is still so rustic that a barn cat might drop down from the rafters to see what you’re sipping. 401-500-6765; tiltedbarnbrewery.com DAY AT THE FARM COGGESHALL FARM MUSEUM, BRISTOL

Anyone who’s seen Hamilton knows what the founding fathers were up to in the nationbuilding years following the American Revolution. But what about everyday folks? At this

living history museum anchored in 1799, you’ll step into the world of tenant farmers who eked out a living on the marshy shores of Narragansett Bay. Come prepared to lend a hand with planting heirloom seeds, tending endangered livestock breeds, and cooking over the hearth. 401-2539062; coggeshallfarm.org DAY HIKE LONG POND WOODS WILDLIFE REFUGE, HOPKINTON

This 220-acre Audubon Society of Rhode Island property is not a hiking destination for newbies. Your exertion will be rewarded, though, with bird sightings and views that have graced the big screen. From the Canonchet Road trailhead, follow the yellow-blazed trail about four miles out and back. A jungle of wild rhododendrons, steep natural and man-made steps, and glacial boulder scrambles stand between you and a Long Pond overlook that appeared in Wes Anderson’s 2012 film Moonrise Kingdom. 401-949-5454; asri.org KID-FRIENDLY ATTRACTION ROGER WILLIAMS PARK ZOO, PROVIDENCE

America’s third-oldest zoo has been on an evolutionary fast track since a 20-year master plan was finalized in 2015. The latest addition: a glassenclosed rain forest where exotic birds f ly free, sloths dangle, howler monkeys wail, and giant

Pretty. Amazing.

river otters Fernando and Romo steal the show. No matter how you’ve traveled to this remarkably interactive zoo, you’ll leave with a critical understanding of the role you play in protecting our planet’s diversity. 401-785-3510; rwpzoo.org MINI GOLF MULLIGAN’S ISLAND, CRANSTON

Take it from Todd Campbell, this multifaceted facility’s PGA pro: “The mini golf course is evil.” The degree of difficulty has an upside: Even if you play only one of two meticulously maintained 18-hole courses, you’ll probably get to see the volcano erupt in a wild display of f ire, heat, and watery spray more than once. Play after dark under the lights for the best spectacle. With Par 3 and pitch-and-putt courses, a driving range with 60 all-weather and outdoor stalls, and batting cages too, you won’t mind being stranded on this island. 401-464-8855; mulligansisland.com OUTLET STORE COLONIAL MILLS FACTORY OUTLET, PAWTUCKET

Why pay catalog prices for rugs manufactured afar when you can hand-select Rhode Island–made braided rounds and oblongs at prices that are practically a steal during monthly sales? For 42 years, Colonial Mills has preser ved traditional rug-mak ing in the city where the American textile industry was born; last year, it represented Rhody at the White House’s “Made in America” product showcase. It’s bliss just to admire the colors and designs displayed in the wideopen showroom, where you’ll be tempted by braided baskets and accessories even if you’re the wall-to-wall-carpet type. 401-724-6840; colonialmills.com/factory-outlet PADDLING ADVENTURE PROVIDENCE KAYAK CO., PROVIDENCE

Flame-colored kayaks are back on the city’s rivers for the third season, evidence that the Providence and the Woonasquatucket are the cleanest they’ve been since the industrial revolution. Paddling on your own or with a guided group isn’t just the most active and unusual way to admire Providence’s architecture and graceful bridges: If you scoop up five pieces of trash along the way, you’ll save $5 on your next rental … and keep the momentum to revitalize these celebrated waterways flowing. 401-8291769; providencekayak.com THRILL RIDE HELIBLOCK, WESTERLY AND BLOCK ISLAND J U S T 12 M I L E S O F F THE RHODE ISLAND M A I N L A N D.

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@blockislandinfo

Doors on or off? It’s your call when you book a sightseeing or point-to-point f light out of Westerly or Block Island state airports aboard a Robinson R44 helicopter. The 15-minute Block Island Experience and 10-minute Watch Hill tour are popular with f irst-timers, but this is the rare thrill you can customize. The ultimate option? A romantic dinner trip to Winfield’s with a sunset swoop around Block Island. 401-859-1001; heliblocktours.com

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Disconnect to Connect (continued from p. 95) both expanded and adhered to her original vision. In early 2018 the camp again came under new ownership, as Lilly and Gene Devlin, two Vermonters with a background running wilderness and school programs, took over. In this age of hyperconnectivity, the Devlins, who are in their mid-40s and

the parents of three teenage boys, are attempting something ambitious: to build an experience that’s for, but not of, the 21st century. There’s no cell service, and while Wi-Fi exists here, the Devlins make it available only briefly in the mornings and evenings. The effect is vacation time that allows for more serendipity. Oh sure, there are structured activities—canoe trips on the Connecticut River, hikes up nea rby Brousseau Mounta in, archery lessons, baking classes for

kids, Friday massages for the parents—but there are also wide-open stretches of the day to explore, to play. I saw a 12-year-old girl sitting quietly on a rock by the water, writing in her journal. Later, a jolt of excitement ran through the camp after a teenage boy helped a counselor rescue a lost loon and return it to the lake. Calvin and his buddies organized their own tennis matches, bike races, and soccer games. They built a fort. They kayaked. They swam. Just a little bit of time away from a screen created a surprising distance from any kind of digital connection. Not once did he ask if he could watch something. The Devlins know that gone are the days when families had the time and resources to block out weeks of vacation—work is always calling, kids’ sports schedules can be all-consuming. But they believe that even a short break from some of these pressures can make a big difference not just in what parents and kids do together, but also in how they relate to one another. “We want this to be a place where families can take a real vacation,” Gene told me, “where they can truly spend time with one another in a way they can’t in the rest of their life.” He gestured toward some parents who were trading turns at the new archery area while their children waited to go next. “This is what we want. People getting out of their conf ined roles. Kids doing something new because they see their parents doing something new.” QQQ IT WAS MIDAFTERNOON ON A SATURDAY

Quimby Country began its 125th year in 2018, just as Lilly and Gene Devlin came on as managers and co-owners. The pair, both graduates of the University of Vermont, previously headed up a nearly-century-old camp in the Adirondacks.

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in late July when Calvin and I arrived at Quimby Country. Inside the main lodge, a few other guests were already checking in. “We should just be parents by committee,” joked one mother to another. “I’ll take them for 12 hours and then you do the same.” Around us were all the hallmarks of a world that had not changed much since Hortense Quimby’s time. A large f ieldstone f ireplace anchored a seating area; just beyond was a sprawling dining area f lush with natural light. In a part of the building that served as a sort of headquarters, NEWENGLAND.COM

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a bookshelf was lined with photo albums that went back to Quimby’s earliest years. On a back wall were wooden mail slots for each of the cabins, all named after Hortense’s favorite f ly-f ishing ties: Ginger Quill, Silver Doctor, Parmachenee, Brown Hackle. An old chest freezer f illed with cold drinks and candy hummed. Guests were instr ucted to w rite down their purchases in a credit log, which was tucked into a weathered leather bound book. As I registered

with Lilly Devlin, Gene showed my son the cooler. Calvin looked over at me in bewildered amazement. All of this? Anytime I want? he seemed to ask. Within a couple of days he and his new crew of friends would make a freezer stop a regular part of their midafternoon itinerary. We soon found our days stocked with such gentle familiarities. Easy routines filled our easy days: runs and bike rides and reading on the front porch. On Sunday evening the Devlins

Calvin and his friends Bowie (right) and Saxon Frank pedal the half-mile trail from the main camp to Big Averill Lake. At Quimby, developing a sense of independence is as much a part of the kids’ experience as exploring the outdoors and trying new activities.

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hosted the camp’s customary welcome cocktail hour. On Wednesday there was the annual Quimbledon tennis tournament; those who didn’t play sat on a lawn bank to cheer on the action. Families competed in a high-stakes Olympics (archery! slingshots! scavenger hunts!) on the final full day, then gathered around a large lobster bake. As it was for other parents and kids, entire chunks of the day would pass before I’d see Calvin again. He’d be under the watchful eye of another adult as he splashed around in the lake, or sitting in the shade with a fellow guest who showed him how his drone worked. It’s probably the closest I’ve comfortably and willingly come to communal living.

Many of the families we met had ties that went back decades—generations, even—and often chose the same weeks each summer so they could join their Quimby friends. One guest told me she’d never been to her young grandson’s birthday because it always fell on her Quimby week. “He lives only a mile from us, so we do see him—but I’m still not sure my daughter understands it,” she said. The pull was the same for others. There were the Martins, Ginny and her husband, Dick, a retired AT&T executive, who live in New Jersey. They’d started coming in the early 1980s, when their kids were young. Now those children were grown with kids of their own, and they were all NEWENGLAND.COM

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here together. The same was true for Chris Dotterer and Richard Butcher, a pair of Pennsylvania physicians who were visiting with their two adult sons. Richard, who’s 71, experienced his first Quimby summer when he was 10. “This is where my dad and I took up fishing,” he told me. “I’d buy him lures, and this is where we’d use them. My dad was pretty shy, but up here he had more friends and was more outgoing. I saw a different side of him.” Not far from Richard and Chris’s cabin were the Patakis, who had taken over several cottages. Lou and Jane of New York City had committed to nearly three weeks at Quimby for what basically amounted to a rolling family reunion. It was their summer center point, a legacy that had begun in the early 1950s when Jane was a young girl. She introduced Lou, an astronomy professor at New York University, to the camp in 1966, after they married. Both their kids, Jon and Daisy, eventually worked as camp counselors. Now, with two sets of children of their own, Jon’s and Daisy’s families were here, too, with Daisy traveling all the way from London to keep her tradition going. Altogether, there 170 |

were 17 Patakis vacationing with us. “I came up here with a couple of things to do,” Lou told me as we sat out on the lodge porch during the Sunday evening cocktail. He shook his head and took a sip from his drink. “I did one of them and then said to hell with the rest. It can wait until I’m back home.” QQQ A CONFESSION : I ’D ARRIVED AT QUIMBY

with a skeptical eye. I enjoy staying connected (and being on my phone) far more than I like to admit. What if I missed a headline, a tweet, a text, or an email? And just how were Calvin and I going to fill our days? But then something kind of marvelous happened: I made do just fine without my phone for much of the day. The world marched on without me. I also learned a few things, such as: My son is probably going to beat me in Ping-Pong in a couple of years, but it’s going to be a little longer before he takes me in tennis. Other things: He really likes building forts, tag is an endless obsession of his, and an expensive mountain bike is most likely in his future. Gene was right. At Quimby, I saw Calvin—and my relationship with him—in a completely different way.

Under the late-day sun, young campers in kayaks and on paddleboards create a mini flotilla on Big Averill Lake.

There was something else, too. Calvin was absolutely enchanted with the freedom he had. He roamed with total confidence, blazing down the camp roads on his bike, securing his own breakfast while I went for a run, formulating his own games and schedule without some micromanaging adult to mess up his plans. He owned his days, and he couldn’t get enough of it. After we returned home, Quimby was the very first thing he talked about when he was asked about his summer. It continued for months afterward. Over breakfast last December I asked Calvin what he wanted to do most in the new year. He thought about it for a moment. “I really want to go back to Hawaii,” he finally answered, recalling a memorable family trip we’d taken a few years before. Then he paused again. “Actually, Quimby Country,” he said. “That’s where I want to go. Not Hawaii.” I couldn’t really argue with him. We plan to return this July. NEWENGLAND.COM

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The Cog Turns 150 (continued from p. 104) into the metal frame of each padded bench. Save for this design feature (to aid wobbly aisle wanderers) and some wood ribs that arc across the ceiling (similar to an overturned boat), the coach is basically a school bus. As tends to be the case on a school bus, we “kids” are raring to go. My fellow Coggers, around 50 in total, span a spectrum of age and preparedness. An octogenarian with bushy white muttonchops (oddly reminiscent of Sylvester Marsh’s own facial hair) is outfitted for a squall on a trawler in the Bering Sea, whereas a smartphone-gripping adolescent wears sandals and a floralpatterned dress. Next to me, three Italian women who have donned translucent plastic ponchos appear confused by the sloppy, gloomy morning. Asks the signorina from Milan: “How does the color come out on the

mountain, not much?” “Sorry, it’s no Mediterranean,” I say, “but believe me, this really is an awesome part of the United States.” Eager to play tour guide, I ramble on. “When Sylvester Marsh proposed to build the Cog, skeptics disparaged it as ‘the Railway to the Moon’ ... and the Pilatus in Switzerland is the only mountainclimbing railroad steeper ... and until recently they used this cog-and-ladder technology to yank ships through the Panama Canal locks....” Alas, the language barrier proves to be impenetrable. Better to focus on Tommy, our brakeman, who looks the part in a dapper vest, tie, and conductor’s cap, his ponytail tucked into a neat little bun. Originally from New York, Tommy emigrated to the White Mountains for the skiing. He’s worked 14 seasons on the Cog (April to November) and appreciates, among other aspects of the job, the dynamic nature of, well, nature—the way that four laps in eight hours equates, typi-

cally, to 16 distinct types of weather. “We’re going to climb about 3,600 feet,” Tommy says into his microphone. “The average grade is 25 percent, and the max grade is 37.41.” He pauses for effect. “And that’s the fun part.” The numerical Cog is not the visceral Cog—the Cog that vibrates your backside, that chatters your teeth— but the stats are nevertheless impressive. Fireman Pete will shovel a ton of coal (literally) into the engine’s firebox, and we’ll stop midclimb at a water tower to refill the tender (capacity is 700 gallons, but it takes 1,000 gallons to get up the mountain). Engineer Joey needs 150 psi of steam to keep the Cog cranking, and while maintaining that pressure might sound challenging, it’s a cinch compared with the era of wood-burning boilers: park the train, go out with an ax, gather additional fuel from the subalpine thickets. A yesteryear ascent required three or four hours and, presumably, 3,000-calorie breakfasts for all involved.

With the shrouded peak of Mount Washington in the background, Waumbek begins its slow climb up the second-steepest railway in the world.

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“It’s a nonsmoking coach,” Tommy says, concluding his spiel. “But if you feel the dire need, just open the window and take a hit off the engine.” About that: A 110-year-old antique, up close the thing is less cute choo-choo than angry dragon hybridized with the Industrial Revolution. Though the engine is 10 feet behind me (remember that it pushes rather than pulls the coach), a dense black plume of exhaust tangled with silvery steam almost wholly obscures the view. Glimpses, that’s what I get. The stubby smokestack shuddering. Cinders popping out, littering the trackside. Joey, with thick mustache and oversize protective earmuffs, leaning from his stool at the controls, gesturing to Tommy with a wave: We’re ready. Sha r p a nd sudden, a wh ist le sounds—and we’re on the move.

uite understandably, the Cog steamer is noisier than your Prius, your F-350 dragging a trailer of baying bloodhounds, your D9 Caterpillar bulldozer, whatever. The layers of grinding, groaning, grumbling, bursting, hissing, and shrieking would have been familiar in the 19th century, when tourists from Boston and Manhattan arrived at the foot of Mount Washington via steam locomotive, but in the 21st century they make a decidedly foreign music. For a while, I lose myself in the crescendos, the avant-garde symphony. Tommy’s narration, despite the microphone, comes through only in snippets. “Hurricane of 1938 … track flipped … steel twisted like a ribbon.” “Seventy miles per … our cutoff … few weeks ago gusting 85.” “Think I’m joking … hold on to your hats and children … tumble away.” Some minutes pass, and when I next hear Tommy’s voice break into audibility he’s saying that people often ask, earnest in their confusion, why the trees are growing on an angle. Indeed. The Cog’s-eye view is disorienting, a geometric riot reminiscent of an M.C. Escher print. Birches and spruce bordering the right-of-way—a 99-footwide swath cut from the otherwise dense forest—jut out, reach out, tilt

176 |

out. Precipitation slants, diagonals, bounces. Mist swirls, curls, unfurls. My brain struggles to make sense of a world canted, tipped on its side. At around 4,40 0 feet, hav ing knocked off Cold Spring Hill, Waumbek Tank , and Ha l f way House, we leave behind the dense, matted k rummholz— German for crooked wood—and access the alpine zone proper. Visibility is 50 feet at best. Blocks of lichen-splotched schist, fringed with dripping brown grasses, extend into foggy murk. Man-size cairns ghost out from that murk, as does a backpacker on the Jewell Trail. I consider how, from his vantage, framed by the edges of a raincoat’s hood, we’re the ghosts, the surreal apparitions. The Cog offers an aural and visual experience, certainly, but it likewise offers a vigorously somatic experience, a reminder that your body is encountering the mountain’s body. Facing forward, I notice that wise Tommy has swapped his conductor’s cap for a baseball hat, his spiffy brakeman’s uniform for a trusty yellow-brown slicker. He’s balancing with the poise of an Olympic gymnast in the open doorframe that leads to a minuscule deck extending from the coach’s snout, unperturbed by the jouncing. Something about his wide stance inspires me: It’s arrived … the time … to stand. Dozens of foot and leg muscles twitch madly to keep me steady as I labor—and labor is undoubtedly the correct term—up the aisle, toward him. Handlebars, thank you. In the front row: Dang, it’s really spitting! An elderly couple—golf windbreakers, khakis, hair helmetlike with dampness—huddle together. I ask Tommy if his passengers gripe about the unpredictable and, let’s just say it outright, profoundly crappy conditions on Mount Washington. If, in other words, they assume this to be an amusement park ride as opposed to a journey into uncontrolled and uncontrollable elements. “Some folks whine,” he says. “But on the whole, most are in it for the adventure.” The elderly couple, whose collective lap I nearly fall into as I turn back to my seat, are smiling. Huddling and smiling. At once.

ltimately, what emerges from a trip on the Cog is the same thing that emerges from the physical act of hiking Mount Washington. Yes, the train gives us history: the illustrious (President Grant and his family rode to the summit), the progressive (Ellen Crawford Teague became the world’s first female railway president in 1967), the violent (eight were killed when an engine derailed and a coach slid into a rock). This little engine has been going strong for 150 years, which is impressive—but 150 years in the lifespan of geology, of upthrust earth? If the Cog’s-eye view gives us anything, it gives us the bigness of mountains I have always so valued. By celebrating the Cog’s longevity, we are actually celebrating landscape, the incontrovertible and unyielding backdrop against which all human time spans are measured, sesquicentennials included. Interrupting these ruminations, the whistle that initially set us in motion sounds again. Now the tone is elongated, varying in pitch and volume over 20 seconds. It’s almost animate, I think, an animal bellowing in joyous pain, in agonized triumph: I’m hurting! I’m going to make it! Grrrrrr! A similar cry has issued from my own hoarse throat during the final heaving, heart-exploding minutes of a summit push. Regardless of your constitution—whether you’re made of flesh and blood or steel and steam—climbing Mount Washington demands serious grit. We pull in at the tip-top, and the track—ends. Nowhere else to go except, as the skeptics meanly quipped, the moon. My fellow Coggers file out, Tommy and Joey and Pete helping them from the coach, pointing them toward the Sherman Adams Visitor Center, 100 paces away. I’m the last to exit, and when I do, the cold wind is enlivening. I mill around in the rain for a while, unwilling to trade the intensity of the place for a gift shop and snack bar. An hour later, on the descent, the clouds part, and the Presidential Range glistens, simultaneously newborn and ancient. The view is, as it has been and will forever be, huger than huge. Need I say more? NEWENGLAND.COM

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Our advertisers support Yankee Magazine, so please support them.

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SUBSCRIBER ALERT

L-OMA Buckwheat Pillows ........183

Yankee Magazine has learned that some of our subscribers have received deceptive renewal QRWL¿FDWLRQV IURP VHYHUDO unauthorized companies.

Leon Levin......................................183

Only Yankee Magazine is authorized to issue renewal QRWL¿FDWLRQV IRU RXU VXEVFULSWLRQV The return address on the envelope provided with your subscription renewal will read: P.O. Box 422447 Palm Coast, FL 32142-2447

Neptune’s Harvest Organic Fertilizer.........................................187

Yankee Magazine DOES NOT contract with third parties to solicit or receive subscription payments. If you receive a renewal and are unsure of its authenticity, please call our subscriber services department: 800-288-4284

Shuttercraft ...................................184

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From the Editors of Yankee Magazine and Globe Pequot Press. • Hundreds of Yankee’s favorite travel ideas in one go-to guide • Where to eat, stay, play, and explore • Full-color photos and a wealth of insider tips • Perfect for a day trip, weekend getaway, or vacation

PHOTO: ISTOCK Distributed by NATIONAL BOOK NETWORK 800-462-6420

MAY | JUNE 2019

| 187

Timeless New England | C L A S S I C I M A G E S O F O U R R E G I O N

Forever Archie Meredith, New Hampshire, lays claim to a favorite fictional son.

Although other writers and artists worked on various Archie properties, Montana is most often credited with shaping the characters. Many believe that Archie’s pals were patterned after kids that Montana knew in high school in Haverhill, Massachusetts. What is certain is that Montana’s strips were often stocked with landmarks and characters from the Meredith area. For more than 75 years, Archie and his Riverdale pals have reflected something essential back to their audience. Now, a life-size bronze rendition of Montana’s creation sits and seemingly contemplates it all, with a welcoming smile and plenty of bench space for visiting Bettys to sit on one side and Veronicas on the other. —Joe Bills

Shown at left is the clay model for Meredith’s Archie statue, sculpted by Valery Mahuchy, a native of Belarus who now lives in Bethlehem, New Hampshire.

MICHAEL SEAMANS

he exact location of the fictional town of Riverdale may never be determined, but its most famous resident, Archie Andrews, has nonetheless come home. Last summer, as part of Meredith, New Hampshire’s 250th anniversary celebration, a statue of the comic book star was installed on a bench in Community Park—right across the street from the former studio of the man who helped create Archie, artist Bob Montana. When a young Montana was hired by MLJ Comics in 1941, one of his first assignments resulted in a four-page story that was published in Pep Comics No. 22. The plot revolved around a high schooler named Archie and his friends Jughead and Betty (Veronica, Betty’s frenemy, would come along later). A number of Archie shorts followed. When it became clear that Archie was popular enough to warrant a full comic book of his own, Montana rented a cottage on Meredith’s Lake Waukewan and got to work. By 1946, the Riverdale gang was so popular that MLJ changed its name to Archie Comics. The following year, Montana—who was by then a full-time resident of Meredith—launched a syndicated Archie comic strip that would eventually appear in more than 700 newspapers.

188 |

NEWENGLAND.COM

<MFǹǪǾȥW ǹǭJ \ǪȜǹǭJW the performances are still incredible.

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