Six states, endless possibilities. Come along with Yankee ’s editors and experts to explore the best of New England.
PLUS: State-by-state listings that include weekend travel spotlights, classic attractions, and new and buzzy ideas for what to see and do in 2024.
Photography duo Jarrod McCabe and Dominic Casserly, aka Giant Giants, follow the call of summer’s waters.
After spending nearly 50 years crisscrossing New England on assignment for Yankee, editor Mel Allen reveals his most unforgettable travel experiences. The best part? You can try them all yourself.
Craftsmanship meets innovation to create barns your grandfather never could have dreamed of.
Centuries after the first farms sprang up in New England, the classic wooden barn still endures as a symbol of tradition and craftsmanship. Indeed, New England is home to some of the oldest barns in the U.S. Yet these days it’s also home to some of the most innovative, thanks to The Barn Yard. Founded in 1984, this family-owned Connecticut building company specializes in timber frame barns created for a modern lifestyle. Their appeal is timeless, but their possibilities are endless, as company vice president Chris Skinner explains.
How did you get started in timber frame barns? It was something my brother, Everett [who serves as company president], and I wanted to do when we got into the business that our father and grandfather had founded. The biggest thing we strive for is to have a barn with traditional wood joinery: mortise and
tenon, oak peg connections. But we brought in new technology, like using precise CNC machines instead of cutting timbers by hand. It’s turned out great— saving time and increasing quality.
What else brings your traditionalstyle barns into the 21st century?
Traditionally, timber frames were handsketched and cut by hand, with fewer options and limited engineering. Today, it’s all about the design and engineering. Our full-time staff of designers and engineers provides a full set of plans for the client so they can get the design 100 percent dialed in, to make sure that we’re giving them exactly what they want and ensure the structure lasts well into the future.
Who is buying timber frame barns, and why? Fifteen or 20 years ago, working barns were most common: for livestock, for storing tractors, farm equipment, and cars. But for clients
today, our barns are multi-use spaces: entertaining, hobby showcases, getaways, even guest space and living space. Being in the barn brings our clients back to when they were a kid—maybe even when their own grandfather had a barn.
Our standard barn models provide lasting value, which goes right back to the way we do our production.
How have you seen the barn adapted to different uses? Many of our clients still want barns for storage in one way or another, but they may add couches and a TV up in the loft space, making it a comfortable place where they can spend some time. And then we’ve built actual “party barns” that have full kitchens, bars, and bathrooms, and are set up with things like ping-pong and foosball tables. Those are really an extension of their home. In fact, a lot of people tell us they like the barn more than they like their home!
To read more from our interview and to see an array of The Barn Yard’s timber frame creations—including two stunning new party barns— go to newengland.com/the-barn-yard
Builders of Quality Barns & Garages Since 1984
BarnYard.com | 1-800-628-2276 | Made in Ellington, CT
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BOARD OF DIRECTORS
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Finding a home at Taylor means more than access to a stunning new cottage or apartment – it means receiving the keys to present and future peace of mind.
Taylor Community is located in the beautiful Lakes Region of New Hampshire with campus locations in both Laconia and Wolfeboro. Whether you prefer an active lifestyle lled with tness classes and an extensive lineup of social and recreational opportunities, or would rather enjoy a ne dining experience with friends after a day spent by the lake... Taylor is the place for you!
LIVING
▲ Best Scenic Drive in Every State
Get the most mileage out of your New England escape with Yankee’s favorite drives in every state.
FOOD
Best Ice Cream in New England
No matter where you are in New England, these ice cream stands and scoop shops add cold, creamy sweetness to hot summer days.
Under-the-Radar Food Towns
Portland, Providence, and Boston are wonderful, but these small towns are poised to become New England’s next foodie getaways.
Photo Spotlight
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Every season is unforgettable at Omni Mount Washington Resort. Spend warmer days perfecting your game on two golf courses surrounded by the White Mountains. When the leaves begin to turn, enjoy Mother Nature’s tapestry as it unfolds to stunning grandeur. Gondola rides with 360° views, thrilling zipline tours through the trees, and a relaxing 25,000 square foot spa make for memorable moments any time of year.
he day after I graduated from high school, I headed west. I was 17. My friend Bobby’s sister lived in California, in what then was a small coastal town on Santa Monica Bay, and she and her husband had a small travel trailer parked outside their house where Bobby and I could stay. We rode to Chicago with another friend, then hopped on a Greyhound. Day turned to night and back again, twice. I watched endless freight trains race past us on their tracks across the prairies. We stopped often along the way, sometimes for a few hours. These were places I had only known from books. I said their names with a sort of reverence. North Platte. Cheyenne. Salt Lake City. Las Vegas at midnight blazed like fireworks.
This was long ago, but the memory of that long, rolling ride never left. The thrill of travel, of being somewhere different, of noticing small things, like cowboy hats in a Wyoming store window. It never grew old.
That’s why when we plan our annual New England travel issue, we focus on the delight of discovery. We want this beautiful, compact region to hold your own special moments and days. In these pages, we share many favorite attractions to visit, delicious foods to taste, restful places to sleep. We asked ourselves: If we had a few days in some of the most soughtafter summer destinations, what would we most want to see and do?
To discover new lures in each state, we also made sure to find out what people are talking about now. A few months ago, two of our editors were in Bethlehem, New Hampshire, on assignment. They came back with their story, but they also raved about a new “tiny batch” ice cream shop that turned a local farm’s
rich milk and cream into flavors like cranberry gingersnap and coffee cardamom; turns out the James Beard Awards also found it irresistible [see p. 116 in “Best of New Hampshire”]. And in the village of Arlington, Vermont, new owners have refreshed the inn that used to be Norman Rockwell’s home. It overlooks a lovely river, and there may be no more special place to bring your imagination—and watercolors [see p. 126 in “Best of Vermont”].
Food editor Amy Traverso invites you into New England neighborhoods filled with multicultural flavors [“Gastro Hubs,” p. 52]. Senior editor Ian Aldrich brings you along on a bike ride whose scenic beauty may spoil you for future rides [“The Bike Ride That Has It All,” p. 50]. And I take a look back over my 45 years of Yankee stories to share the most memorable destinations and things I have experienced—all of which you, too, can find today [“Put Yourself in My Places,” p. 80].
Guiding this special issue was Kim Knox Beckius, our travel editor, who has been writing about New England for more than 25 years. She and her team of contributors are among those travel writers who still actually put their feet on the ground, seeing and doing and forming their own impressions to be sure that readers who follow their recommendations will one day look back on their own New England travels with joyful memories of discovery. I hope you come along with all of us, to see where we call home.
Mel Allen
JARROD MCCABE & DOMINIC CASSERLY
Working as the photography duo Giant Giants, these two Massachusetts natives say it’s a dream come true to bring their passion for great New England swimming spots to the pages of Yankee [“In the Swim,” p. 72]. When they’re not traveling for work or on assignment, there’s nothing they love more than taking their kids (Dom’s three plus Jarrod’s one) to discover more of these epic swim holes. “If you see us out and about, come say hey and take a dip with us!”
CHRIS WOODSIDE
Having climbed her first peak at age 3, Woodside discovered backpacking at 23, hiked the entire Appalachian Trail at 28, and has been walking through or writing about New England landscapes ever since [“To Hear a Forest,” p. 16]. A journalist for four decades, Woodside recently published her third book, Going Over the Mountain: One Woman’s Journey from Follower to Solo Hiker and Back (Appalachian Mountain Club Books). She lives in Deep River, Connecticut, with her husband, Nat.
ANDREW COLLINS
For Yankee’s “Summer Travel Guide,” this veteran travel writer and editor describes an ideal weekend getaway to New Hampshire’s Lakes Region [p. 62]. He says his own relationship with the region got off to a rocky start, when he was sent off to summer camp there at age 12. But then, “after a few weeks of hiking and sailing, I quickly fell in love with Lake Winnipesaukee.” He now spends much of his time at a cabin on a small New Hampshire lake with his partner, Fernando.
KARIN DAILEY
Since pivoting to photography after nearly a decade in biotech, Dailey has worked for publications such as Boston, Barron’s, and now Yankee. Assigned to photograph Freedom Trail interpreters for the “Summer Travel Guide” [“Follow-Worthy,” p. 54], she says she enjoyed getting to know her subjects and their diverse backgrounds. “One was immersed in law school, another was pursuing a career in comedy. Each conversation was a cool exploration of their individual journeys.”
JOHN S. DYKES
Over the course of 35 years, Dykes has worked on more than 5,000 illustrations for hundreds of clients, earning recognition and awards from top industry associations. His latest Yankee assignment? Capturing editor Mel Allen’s most memorable New England adventures [“Put Yourself in My Places,” p. 80]. Dykes, who lives in Boston, says he can relate as someone who’s also made the most of New England’s great outdoors, from hiking and camping to rafting and snowmobiling.
KIM KNOX BECKIUS
In her quest to find the best of New England for this year’s “Summer Travel Guide” [p. 48], Yankee’s travel editor ascended the nation’s tallest lighthouse, climbed down into a World War II–era tank, and held on tight for a wild golf cart ride with chef Andy Teixeira to see the fields where many of his sublime dishes get their start. Beckius, who also coauthored Frommer’s New England 2024, says she’s grateful for all her road trip companions, especially her daughter, Lara.
We were delighted to see Julia Shipley’s coverage of UMaine’s Advanced Structures and Composites Center and the BioHoME 3D project [“The House with 3D Vision,” March/April]. However, we would like to provide some clarification. While we believe this technology could greatly help with the housing shortage in Maine, and around the world, we do not believe it will displace the construction labor force.... This innovative use of wood residuals —a byproduct that currently costs the lumber industry money to dispose of—is meant not only to create benefits for the environment and affordable housing production, but also to help the timber, lumber, and construction industries that have always played a key role in Maine’s economy and identity.
Mark C. Wiesendanger, director of development, MaineHousing Habib Dagher, executive director, Advanced Structures and Composites Center, University of Maine
• Formerly located in Stonington, Maine, the acclaimed restaurant Aragosta relocated to Deer Isle in 2019 [“TV Dinners,” March/April].
• The images for “Flower Power” [March/April] should have been credited to Emily Elisabeth Photography (emilyelisabeth.net).
• “Best Places to Live” [March/ April] should have specified that the population and median home price for Ridgefield, Connecticut, referred to the neighborhood of Ridgefield... which is located within a town of the same name.
Your Columbia & Snake Rivers Cruise Includes:
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Follow Lewis and Clark’s epic 19th-century expedition along the Columbia and Snake Rivers aboard the newest ship in the region. Enjoy unique shore excursions, scenic landscapes, and talented onboard experts who bring history to life.
One warm morning I took a break while hiking near Mount Cardigan in western New Hampshire. I sat on a tent platform in an empty campsite and swung my boots over the edge. The leaves began to rustle, first faintly, then louder and louder, the way they do when the wind kicks up. I looked up and watched the leaves and branches sway and vibrate.
I did a little experiment. I took off my hearing aids, first the right and then the left, careful not to drop them through the platform’s wide cracks. I looked at the trees. The rushing sound was gone, as if smothered beneath a giant pillow. I heard ringing, which my ears do now.
I tried the same test later on a wet Saturday near my home, while trudging on one of my favorite lakeside paths. Rain spattered on my umbrella, rattling louder with wind bursts. I stopped, tugged out my hearing aids, and slid them into my pockets. Silence—well, just ringing. No pattering. No wind. No sparrow peeps such as I’d admired a moment before.
One very faint blue jay squawk.
Reclaiming the sound—and joy—of life in the natural world.
Without hearing aids, the forest to me seems a bit like a science fiction movie. A world without wind, without animal rustlings, without birdsong: the auditory version of prison.
At age 3 and 4, before my hearing began to go, I would run around outside on dusky evenings, listening to crickets. As my hearing gradually declined through my younger years, I began thinking the crickets themselves had declined. But it was me.
I said nothing to my parents, or anyone, about my missing sounds. I guessed at what people said, and failed algebra in eighth grade (the teacher had her back to us). Finally a school hearing screening caught my problem. A doctor told my parents they could do nothing.
When I was 28 and thru-hiking the Appalachian Trail, my three companions placed me in the middle of the line so I could converse. Then, I still heard birds: the whippoorwill’s nervous loop, the banter of the wood thrush.
Through my 30s, speech and the sounds of nature faded more. I finally got a diagnosis: otosclerosis. The morning after removing the bandage following my first successful ear operation at age 37, I went for a walk. A rushing sound distracted me where they had operated on my right ear. Leaves rustling in the high oak trees. I cried.
A second operation on the left followed. A few years later: my first hearing aids. But while backpacking with friends, if rain began to fall I’d remove the aids and stash them in a Ziploc bag. I’d call, “Going into radio silence.”
Until I discovered hats, the evocative, delicious sound of falling water and distant rolling thunder stayed with me as a memory storm. Sometimes at home I’d listen to recordings of rain while up late writing.
I quickly learned to leave in those hearing aids unless I was immersing myself in a body of water or about to nod off for the night. I was determined to live fully in the world of sound, which includes the natural world, the place I observe and write about. Where life happens.
On the fourth morning of a solo backpacking trip through the Carter Range of the White Mountains, I had a half hour to pass waiting for a bus. I lingered on the bank of the Nineteen Mile Brook and just listened (with my hearing aids on, of course).
The water crashed, murmured, and gurgled at the midrange of frequencies. As I waited, I began to hear other things. I stared at the water rolling over giant rocks. The sounds were like someone humming a tune I had never heard before, and they were coming from the water and around the water. A full song. I had no one to tell, but I didn’t need to talk. I was listening.
The Mountaineer offers a supremely scenic journey over Crawford Notch.
• Experience classic train travel on the Valley and Sawyer River Trains or take a scenic journey over Crawford Notch aboard the Mountaineer.
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Experience the art of unplugging at Maine’s Attean Lake Lodge.
KBY IAN ALDRICH PHOTOS BY COREY HENDRICKSONarl Thomsen has some stories about the power of Attean Lake Lodge. For nearly two decades, the Maine native and Registered Maine Guide has worked for this family-oriented wilderness retreat in Jackman, just north of Moosehead Lake. Specifically, it’s located on a 24-acre rocky outpost in Attean Pond called Birch Island—and it’s not a place you just stumble across. Up and up you go, three hours north of Portland, before you even find the township. There are dirt roads to navigate,
Spanning roughly 2,800 acres and speckled with some 40 islands, Attean Pond exudes the romance of the Maine wilderness. One of the few structures in this largely undeveloped area is Attean Lake Lodge, now run by Barrett and Josie Holden (shown at far left with two of their three kids and their Alaskan malamute, Dakota).
followed by a boat ride to the lodge. It takes some effort to get here, says Thomsen, and then a change of mindset to really experience the place.
“People coming here for the first time aren’t sure what to expect,” he says. “All they know is that it’s remote, there’s no cell service, and the cabins don’t have electricity. So they get out of the car and they look stiff; they look anxious about what they’re about to experience.
“Then you see them a week later and they’re like com-
pletely different people. The tenseness is gone. Their socks don’t match. Their hair is messed up. They’re smiling.”
And more often than not, they come back. “They invite their friends or bring other family,” he says.
It’s been like that almost from the beginning. The story of Attean Lake Lodge starts in the late 1800s, when Birch Island was opened to city-dwelling sportsmen seeking space and peace amid the Maine wilderness. In 1904, the sometimes faltering enterprise was rescued by the Holden
family, whose roots trace back to Jackman’s earliest European settlers. The resort has remained in the family ever since, and today guests are greeted by fourth-generation owners Barrett Holden and his wife, Josie.
As with the Holdens before him, Barrett’s life has been defined by the business. By the age of 10 he was working alongside his parents, running boats and delivering firewood to the guests. He was on site to watch his father erect a new lodge in the 1990s, a mammoth undertaking that required the elder Holden to truck 74 loads of lumber across the winter ice. It’s here where Barrett first met Josie, who’d come to work for the summer, and today the couple has integrated the flow of Attean life into the lives of their three young children.
“It was fun growing up here,” says Barrett. “It wasn’t all that unlike it is now. A lot of the same people would come back year after year. As a kid I’d look at the guest list before each season and get excited about who I’d see again.”
Attean’s strength comes from what it’s not. It’s not big—there are just 14 guest cabins. It’s not easy to get to. And outside the lodge, it’s not
Though the current main lodge was built in 1991, its exposed beams, rugged hearth, and vintage hunting and fishing artwork would make an early-20th-century sportsman feel right at home.
a place with Internet access. What it is, instead, is a direct connection to Maine’s woods and waters. There are boats and kayaks to use, and hiking trails that crisscross the nearby mainland. Guests can fish or lounge on the sandy beach. The days are bookended by big breakfasts and dinners in the lodge; in between, there are opportunities for serious porch-sitting.
The allegiance that many feel with this place is evident. Bookings can go two years out, and many returning families have been making Attean a summer destination for generations.
“We have a woman who’s been coming here for 80 years,” says Barrett, a fact that still manages to surprise even him. “But people find the flow of the place and they get into it. We’ll get calls from people asking if they’ll get bored here. Can you give me some ideas on what we can do to pass the time? But they don’t need much help. They quickly discover what this place is all about, and that’s pretty cool to see.”
Stay and play in the great outdoors at these woodsy New England lodges and resorts.
QUIMBY COUNTRY
Averill, VT
One of the Northeast’s original family resorts, Quimby sprawls across more than 1,000 acres and includes two lakes. Private cabins, a big lodge, and a varied lineup of family programming add to the allure of this remote retreat. quimbycountry.com
ROCKYWOLD
DEEPHAVEN CAMPS
Holderness, NH
There’s never a dull moment at this more-than-a-century-old Squam Lake destination, where the days brim with hiking, yoga, kayaking, nature walks, and other screen-free diversions. Participate as a family, or savor a little adult R&R by signing your kids up for things like play groups, island picnics, and scavenger hunts. rdcsquam.com
QUISISANA RESORT
Lovell, ME
At this all-inclusive, cottage-style family resort edging nine-milelong Kezar Lake, diversions like swimming, sailing, kayaking, and hiking share the spotlight with the talented young staff, who stage nine live performances each week. So who knows? Your waiter might just be a future Broadway star. quisisanaresort.com
DEER MOUNTAIN LODGE & WILDERNESS RESORT
Dummer, NH
On the doorstep of this refreshed 1920s-built sporting lodge is the 1,000-mile-plus Ride the Wilds trail network, ready to be explored by ATV or snowmobile; equally accessible are fishing spots on the Androscoggin. The resort’s rustic tavern is your place to swap North Country stories. deermountainlodge.com
MEDAWISLA LODGE & CABINS
Greenville, ME
Rebuilt and reopened in 2017 with features that make a remote getaway handicapped-accessible, Medawisla (“loon” in Abenaki) carries on Maine sporting camp traditions deep in the heart of the state’s 100-Mile Wilderness. outdoors.org/destinations/maine/ medawisla-lodge
One of the oldest insect repellents in the country keeps blackflies away and memories alive.
“Black ies, no-see-ums, deer ies, gnats and mosquitoes were instituted by the devil to force people to live in cities where he could get at them better….” —Ernest Hemingway
emingway wrote that line in 1920, but the Pilgrims could have related. They sent a letter to their London sponsors in 1623 reporting they were “much annoyed by mosquitoes” and hoping to relocate their settlement. Lots of so-called solutions were tried over the years, but things like sweetgrass necklaces and bear fat salves never really caught on. Trekking through Maine in the 1850s, Henry David Thoreau used an ointment made from oil of turpentine, spearmint, and camphor. After applying it to his face and hands, he decided he preferred the bites of Maine’s tiny but voracious blackflies.
Little did Thoreau know that the very state that hosted such relentless tormentors would, half a century later, produce one of New England’s most enduring defenses against them.
Ole Time Woodsman Fly Dope, as the company story goes, was born in 1910 after an angler named Obie Sherer was driven from a favorite Maine fishing hole by blackflies and mosquitoes. Research led him to an 1882 recipe for a concoction used by hunters to disguise their scent, which he then adapted for his own use to keep insects at bay.
One day a logging crew saw Sherer fishing in peace and wanted to know his secret. He made them a batch of his “fly dope,” and when they came back
clamoring for more, Sherer saw a business opportunity. And in honor of his first customers, he named his product “Ole Time Woodsman.”
While the exact recipe is a closely held secret, the ingredients are not. “It’s a mixture of pine tar, petroleum distillates like mineral oil, and essential oils,” explains Maine native Ken “Skip” Theobald III, the company’s owner since 2010. The fly dope is made by hand, mixed in small batches in Theobald’s garage.
The label lists pine tar, paraffin, citronella, liquid smoke, camphor, pennyroyal, and oil of bay as active ingre-
dients; the other 55 percent is white mineral oil. Its pungent aroma is hard to describe. “The smell of a primal pine forest,” Theobald says, adding, “If the bugs can’t find you, they can’t bite you.” In any case, the scent is downright ambrosial for those who find that it disguises them from biting insects.
And in some devoted users, Ole Time Woodsman also stirs up beloved memories. As one fan wrote: “That aroma reminds me of the many hours I spent fishing with my grandfather…. I can’t wait to rub some on and imagine he’s right there fishing with me again.” —Joe Bills
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No garden? No problem. A White Mountains flower workshop provides a much-needed nature escape.
BY AIMEE TUCKER
When it comes to gardening these days, any desire I may have to put something into the ground is quickly drowned out by the demands of work and parenthood. I buy those pretty seed packets…but never plant them. I research plans for a pollinator garden…but never buy the supplies. I want to grow my own vegetables…but shopping at the local farm stand is faster (and hey, it lets me support my neighbor farmers!).
Basically, I have the interest but not the time. So what’s a busy garden lover to do? Turn to the Internet, naturally.
After searching for “garden classes near me,” I waved good-bye to my family and headed up to Tarrnation Flower Farm in Sugar Hill, New Hampshire, for a four-hour workshop on dahlias. Tarrnation is a family farm, and instructor Vanessa Tarr is the ultimate farmer: hardworking, resourceful, and blessed with an infectious passion for everything she grows. Her father, Reggie, bought the seven-acre property from a potato farmer in 1997, and Vanessa spent her childhood learning the ropes. She later worked for a local floral designer and on flower farms as far away as Washington and Spain.
When Reggie stepped back from running the farm 10 years ago, it was
the perfect opportunity for Vanessa to lead Tarrnation into becoming the floral paradise it is today. In addition to hosting a farm stand, Tarrnation offers spring and summer “flower shares,” is a regular at the nearby Littleton farmers’ market, hosts workshops like the one I had signed up for, and styles fresh, in-season flowers for weddings and other special events.
from top left: Shears in hand, a workshop attendee goes on the hunt for flowers among Tarrnation Flower Farm’s lush crops; a 150-yearold barn serves as both farm stand and floral design studio; committed to growing perfect blooms without pesticides, the Tarrnation team finds creative ways to keep bugs at bay—like protecting tender young dahlias with inexpensive organza bags.
Late summer is peak dahlia season, and I was amazed to see how many colors and sizes grew on the farm. Some had tight, spherical blooms with neat curls of petals, while others were huge by comparison (earning them the nickname “dinner-plate dahlias”), with petals that were softer, like a peony’s. As we strolled the open-air beds and greenhouses, clipping blooms for
our arrangements, Vanessa cheerfully fielded questions about when to deadhead and how to prevent bug damage without pesticides.
Back in the workshop, she walked us through the steps for creating a show-stopper display, aided by an enormous “flower bar” of bonus blooms to use as we pleased. Using the same materials, nine of us came up with nine totally different arrangements—a lovely reminder of the endless possibilities of nature’s palette.
I had arrived that day knowing only that dahlias have lots of petals and come in lots of colors, but I left brimming with inspiration from an afternoon of learning, creating, and, frankly, just putting my phone down and getting my hands dirty.
I kept my flowers on my kitchen counter until the last petal fell. Every time I looked at them, I remembered the thrill of selecting and snipping each bloom. The satisfaction of finding the perfect spot in the vase. The joys of nature, even in small sips. These days, that’s just the kind of gardener I am. And it’ll do.
tarrnationflowerfarm.com
Flower arranging doesn’t have to be intimidating. With just a few supplies, you can create something beautiful to gift a friend or enjoy yourself for days to come. Start with fresh flowers from the garden, a farmers’ market, or even your local florist. Along with showstopping blooms, make sure you have a variety of greenery and a supporting cast of secondary flowers in different shapes and colors. Then, with the help of some chicken wire and the perfect vase, you’ll be ready to arrange like a pro.
Craving a handson gardening experience? These farms, garden centers, and floral design studios are just a sampling of the many places in New England where you can learn, plant, arrange, and share the joys of nature.
Cedar Circle Farm EAST THETFORD, VT
As part of its larger agricultural educational mission, the nonprofit Cedar Circle Farm offers classes in “plants with a purpose” (think pollinator, medicinal, and edible) and maker-related themes such as createyour-own bouquets, using natural dyes, and crafting macrame plant hangers. cedarcirclefarm.org
Cross Street Flower Farm NORWELL, MA
With more than 50 varieties of cut flowers, Cross Street Flower Farm hosts regular pick-your-own events throughout the season, including weekly sunset sessions, along with floral design workshops and even yoga classes held in the flower fields. crossstreetflowerfarm.com
Foxglove Farmhouse YORK, ME
This small-but-mighty flower farm in coastal Maine teams up with nearby Slack Tide Sea Salt to lead unique summer workshops that pair guided floral arrangement with a custom sea-salt blending activity. foxglovefarmhouse.com
Learn from the pros at Greenlion Design, named
one of the top floral design studios in the country by Martha Stewart Weddings
Seasonal workshops teach how to create natural-looking arrangements using floral “frogs,” plus garden-to-vase instruction using flowers and foliage from your own yard.
it the ideal spot to learn about garden fundamentals, design and planting plans, watercolor journaling, and flower arranging. hollisterhousegarden.org
Snug Harbor Farm KENNEBUNK, ME
Packed with fresh ingredients, these easy, hearty sandwiches are perfect for a summer outing. BY AMY TRAVERSO
Once you’ve settled on the perfect sandwich, find the perfect place to enjoy it: newengland.com/summerpicnic-destinations.
his is the first menu of sandwich recipes I’ve ever created, and it presented an interesting challenge: What makes a sandwich worthy of a written recipe? A PB&J is hardly a recipe. Who wants a grilled cheese in summer? In the end, my goal was to create recipes that were worth a little effort, but easy enough to make in 30 minutes or less. And I wanted them to feel familiar, but with a twist.
These recipes ask you to make just one or two things. A batch of bacon for the bacon, lettuce, avocado, and tomato sandwich. A Green Goddess dressing for the chicken salad. Some sweet-and-sour peppers for the mozzarella and prosciutto sub. The roast beef sandwich has two prepared elements: fried shallots and a pimento cheese sauce. And the chicken Milanese sandwich involves frying a cutlet and topping it with a garlic-lemon-honey butter. But everything is very simple, and I guarantee your efforts will be rewarded.
Enjoy these sandwiches at home, on a picnic, or on your next road trip. Let our “Summer Travel Guide” [p. 48] inspire your plans, then get yourself a sturdy cooler and some cold packs—and know you’ll be well fed as you make your journey.
Agrodolce is an Italian condiment made with vinegar, sugar, and sometimes wine. It may have dried fruit mixed in, or pine nuts, or vegetables. In any case, the contrast of the sweetness and the acidity is what makes it special. Here, sweet-and-sour peppers, onions, and raisins jazz up a sandwich made with mozzarella, basil, and prosciutto. Vegetarians can always eliminate the meat—it’s delicious either way.
3 tablespoons olive oil, plus more for drizzling bread
2 red peppers, stemmed, seeded, and cut lengthwise into ½-inch-thick strips
½ medium red onion, peeled and cut lengthwise into ½-inch wedges
3 tablespoons raisins (preferably golden)
2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar, plus more for drizzling bread
½ teaspoon kosher salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
²⁄ 3 cup water
1 tablespoon granulated sugar
4 fresh, crusty ciabatta or sausage rolls, split lengthwise 8–12 slices fresh mozzarella
8 slices prosciutto (optional)
½ cup basil leaves
In a medium skillet, warm the oil over medium-high heat. Add the peppers and onion and cook until they begin to soften, about 5 minutes. Reduce heat to medium. Add the raisins, balsamic vinegar, kosher salt, and black pepper, and cook, stirring often, until the peppers begin to look glazed, about 2 minutes. Add water and cook, stirring occasionally, until the water reduces to a glossy sauce. Add the sugar and stir until dissolved. Remove from heat.
Drizzle the rolls lightly with oil and vinegar on both sides. Layer enough mozzarella on the bottom halves of the rolls to cover the bread surface.
Top each with 2 slices of prosciutto, if using. Top prosciutto with equal portions of the pepper mixture and some basil leaves. Top with bread, slice in half, and serve. Yields 4 sandwiches.
SANDWICHES WITH GARLICLEMON-HONEY BUTTER
Chicken Milanese is a favorite weeknight meal: an easy chicken cutlet, breaded and pan-fried and served with a lemony arugula and Parmesan salad. It also makes a great sandwich. You just need to boost the flavor by adding a lemony garlic butter with a little bit of honey; meanwhile, thinly sliced radishes provide crunch and color. This recipe will produce more of the butter than you need, but the leftover amount is great to have in the refrigerator to put on toast or grilled fish or chicken.
2 large boneless, skinless chicken breasts
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more for sprinkling
4 slices fresh white sandwich bread, crusts removed (about 4 ounces)
½ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
½ cup all-purpose flour
2 large eggs, beaten Vegetable or olive oil, for frying
8 tablespoons (1 stick) salted butter, softened
2 medium cloves garlic, minced
2 slices lemon, about ¼ inch thick
2 teaspoons honey
4 fresh, crusty ciabatta or sausage rolls, split lengthwise and lightly toasted
1¹⁄ 3 cups packed baby arugula leaves
¹⁄ 3 cup thinly sliced pink radishes Lemon wedges, for serving
Lay the chicken breasts on a cutting board. Put your hand on top of one
breast to hold it in place, then use a knife to carefully slice the breast in half lengthwise so that you now have two pieces of chicken that are half as thick as before. Repeat with the second breast. Sprinkle the meat all over with pepper and 1 teaspoon salt. Use a meat mallet or rolling pin to lightly pound each to a 1/3-inch thickness. Set aside.
In a blender or food processor, pulse the bread slices until they form fluffy bread crumbs. Add the Parmesan cheese and pulse just to combine. Transfer the mixture to a shallow bowl. Put the flour in another shallow bowl. Put the eggs in a third shallow bowl.
Dip one piece of chicken in the flour and turn to coat both sides. Next, dip it in the egg, coating both sides. Finally, dip it in the bread crumbs to coat both sides, pressing the crumbs into the meat. Repeat with remaining
three chicken pieces. Set aside (you can do this up to 6 hours ahead of time and refrigerate, covered).
Fill a skillet with oil to a depth of about 1/3 inch. Warm over mediumhigh heat until a pinch of bread crumbs dropped in the oil sizzles and browns nicely. Cook the chicken, making sure not to crowd the pan, until browned and cooked through, 2 to 3 minutes per side. Transfer to a wire rack to cool and lightly sprinkle with more salt.
To make the garlic butter, use a standing or immersion blender to puree the butter, garlic, lemon slices (including the peel), and honey until smooth.
To make the sandwiches, butter each cut side of the halved and toasted rolls with the garlic butter. Lay the chicken on the bottom halves, then top with equal amounts of arugula
and then radishes. Top with bread and slice in half. Serve warm, accompanied by lemon wedges to squeeze over the radishes and arugula just before eating. Yields 4 sandwiches.
I love Green Goddess dressing. It sounds so luxurious, and it makes a salad feel like a special event. The original Green Goddess recipe goes back to San Francisco’s Palace Hotel in 1923, though that recipe included anchovies and tarragon. I like the flavors of this version, as well as the nutritional boost lent by the spinach. Adding walnuts to the chicken salad and then layering the sandwich with apple slices brings to mind a Waldorf salad, another luxury hotel creation, this one from the late 1800s.
(Continued on p. 86)
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Embrace a signature taste of spring with these tempting rhubarb dessert recipes.
BY AMY TRAVERSO
he rhubarb plant that grows in my garden next to the raised bed was a mistake. I wasn’t careful about choosing the variety, and this one comes in celery green rather than cherry red. Plus, I planted it directly into the ground, in soil that was likely contaminated over the years by the lead paint on my 1918 house. (I keep meaning to get it tested.) The plant comes up when the ground is still brown and gray, unfurls dramatically, then bolts, sending up prehistoriclooking flower stalks…and remains unloved and uneaten.
This year, I vow to test my soil. And I will plant a new, bright red variety of rhubarb, which I will harvest and use in the following recipes. Both make excellent use of rhubarb’s signature tartness, softening it with sugar and butter (or cream). Great rhubarb recipes are all about contrast.
The British classic known as Eton mess— a rustic parfait of whipped cream, fruit compote, and meringue—is one of my favorite desserts for summer entertaining. You can make most of it ahead of time, it requires minimal effort, and it makes a big impact. A friend in London served it to me last summer and assured me that most Brits use store-bought meringues, rather than making their own. Why spend two hours making something that you’re only going to crumble up and soak in whipped cream and fruit compote?
Imagine for a moment you’ve gone for a hike in Maine’s western Mountains and like the two kids in Paris, Maine in 1820, you see a tree blown over, roots on one side hanging six feet in the air and a pink crystal gleaming in the spring light is a flash of pure pink. What would you do? Would you take a closer look?
Yes our western mountains are world famous for some of the finest tourmaline ever found on planet earth. Yes. We have the definitive collection of honkin’ monster awesome Maine Tourmaline. If you think it will last forever, think again. All gem finds have a beginning and all gem finds have an end. These gems were found over a half century ago. We collected and saved choice Maine tourmaline. This could be your final opportunity. If you find this piece intriguing call us, because you could be the winner. For so many pieces there is just one. Yes, just one, so don’t wait.
“Monday, October 23, 1972 – It rained hard today, but we continued to work and developed the pocket found the previous night. Dug out many large and rather nice tourmalines. Appears that this pocket may be larger than we thought......”
Continue reading the whole story on our website. Scan this QR Code with your smartphone camera to go directly to the story on our website.
1¼ pounds (7–9 stalks) red rhubarb, chopped (4–5 cups)
½ cup plus 1 tablespoon granulated sugar
2 strips fresh lemon peel (optional)
2 tablespoons water
2 cups heavy cream
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
Pinch of salt
3 cups crushed meringue cookies (about 15 cookies)
30 raspberries
In a medium saucepan, stir together the rhubarb, ½ cup sugar, lemon peel (if using), and water. Cover and set over medium heat. When the water starts to simmer, stir and cook for 2 more minutes. Remove lid and cook, covered, stirring occasionally, until the rhubarb is fully cooked down and has thickened slightly, 10 to 12 minutes. Transfer to a bowl, remove lemon peel (if used), and let cool to room temperature.
Just before serving, whip the cream with the remaining 1 tablespoon sugar, vanilla extract, and pinch of salt to form medium peaks. Reserve ¾ cup of the crushed meringues for the topping.
To assemble, divide the whipped cream among 6 bowls, alternating in layers with the rhubarb compote and the crushed meringues and ending with whipped cream. Top each bowl with 5 raspberries and some of the
reserved crushed meringues. Serve immediately. Yields 6 servings.
My mom was a regular baker of 1970sstyle pineapple upside-down cakes. I loved the way the tartness of the fruit bumped up against the buttery caramel topping. With that in mind, I created this dramatically striped cake, giving it a thicker layer of brown sugar caramel on top. The candied ginger is optional, but very nice.
FOR THE TOPPING
6–8 stalks rhubarb
4 tablespoons salted butter
²⁄ 3 cup brown sugar
FOR THE CAKE
8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, softened
²⁄ 3 cup granulated sugar
2 large eggs, at room temperature
¹⁄ 3 cup finely chopped candied ginger (optional)
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1½ cups (210 grams) all-purpose flour
1½ teaspoons baking powder
¾ teaspoon table salt
²⁄ 3 cup milk, at room temperature
Start with a 9-inch cast iron or other heavy-bottomed, oven-safe skillet. Lay the rhubarb stalks closely together on a
cutting board, set the skillet on top of them, and use a knife to trim the rhubarb to fit the skillet. (Pressing down on the skillet while cutting will prevent the rhubarb from moving around.) The number of rhubarb stalks you need will vary by their size.
Preheat your oven to 375°F and set a rack to the middle position.
Melt 4 tablespoons butter in the skillet over medium heat, brushing some of the butter up onto the sides of the skillet. Add the brown sugar and whisk together just until smooth. Remove from heat and give the pan a shake to ensure the mixture evenly coats the bottom of the pan. Carefully lay the rhubarb stalks in the pan, rounded side down (a bit of space between each is OK).
Now, make the cake batter: Using a stand or handheld mixer, beat the butter with the sugar in a large bowl for one minute. Scrape down the sides and the bottom and beat for 1 minute. Repeat this step two more times. Add the eggs, one at a time, mixing well after each. Add the ginger (if using) and vanilla and beat to combine, scraping down the sides of the bowl as needed.
In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, and salt. Add the dry ingredients to the butter mixture in three batches, alternating with the milk, and mixing after each on low until just combined. Use a spatula to scrape the sides and bottom of the bowl to ensure it is thoroughly mixed. Using a large spoon, add the batter to the skillet in large dollops, covering the rhubarb. Smooth with a spatula and bake the cake until it is set in the center and golden brown, 25 to 30 minutes.
Let the cake sit for just 5 minutes, then run a knife around the cake edge and set a plate on top of the pan. Using oven mitts, flip the pan over so the cake drops onto the plate. Let cool for 10 minutes before serving. Leftovers may be wrapped and stored in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. Bring to room temperature or warm before serving. Yields 8 servings.
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SIX STATES, ENDLESS POSSIBILITIES. COME ALONG WITH YANKEE’S EDITORS AND EXPERTS TO EXPLORE THE BEST OF NEW ENGLAND.
Water, water everywhere —plus views to the far horizon—provides cyclists with an unforgettable backdrop on Vermont’s Island Line Trail. Read more, p. 50.
VERMONT’S ISLAND LINE TRAIL IS A 14-MILE STUNNER.
By Ian AldrichThe magic of exploring a place on two wheels instead of four comes into full focus on Vermont’s Island Line Trail, a bike ride that’s a lesson in the art of going slow. Sure, you could cover this relatively flat, relatively easy distance in a couple of hours, but why? This is a journey made for meandering and stopping. And then stopping again. The views, after all, include both Lake Champlain and the Adirondack Mountains, not to mention sailboats, lighthouses, and killer sunsets. And the sights are as varied as the terrain. You’re in a city. You’re on a paved path. You’re on an island. You’re on…the water? In a sense, yes.
Stretching from Burlington and along four miles of the city’s waterfront, the trail is made up in part by the Burlington Bike Path and the Allen Point Access Trail. But the stop-in-your-tracks photo op comes on the Colchester Causeway, a three-mile path flanked by huge marble boulders that extends into Lake Champlain, the largest lake east of the Great Lakes and the sixth-largest freshwater body in the country.
Some riders have described the causeway experience as gliding atop the water. You’re certainly crossing it, and come summer you can catch a lift to the final stretch of the trail, on the island of South Hero, via a seasonal ferry operated by the Burlington bike nonprofit Local Motion. As on the other Champlain islands, biking on South Hero isn’t merely a tolerated activity—it’s part of the culture. Signs for the Lake Champlain Bikeways, a 1,600mile network that runs through Quebec and New York, are everywhere you look (as are patient drivers, even on busy main roads). If you’ve got the pedal power, you can muscle your way back to Burlington for proper adult refueling and some stunning end-of-day colors over New York’s Adirondacks. For a map and ferry information, go to localmotion.org.
2:
ARocket Science 3: Airstream Interplanetary Explorer and, in the background, Rocket Science
You could drive past the entrance to Hogpen Hill Farms in Woodbury, Connecticut, a thousand times and never guess that it held 234 wavy acres seeded with a crop found nowhere else on earth. Some specimens are more than 30 feet tall. They’re all the product of Edward Tufte’s fertile mind, skilled hands, and contemplative eyes.
Plant yourself beneath an 84-foot-long sculpture of a vintage Airstream, taillights aglow, held aloft on a beam so high that it appears poised to launch into the stratosphere. Marvel at massive rock compilations more intricate than Stonehenge. Wander through a bamboo maze. Or stand in stillness, mesmerized by the wind-nudged spinning of a 12-foot aluminum fish.
There was a time when Tufte opened his sculpture park only
one day each year. In 2020, when so many of us yearned for outdoor experiences, he offered the property as refuge, and expanded access continues. But mystery remains about this year’s open dates, as well as Tufte’s plans to provide public access to these wondrous grounds in perpetuity. It’s ironic, considering the octogenarian former Yale professor is revered for his leading-edge work transforming data into something we can see.
To learn which summer and fall weekends you can visit, check Tufte’s website or subscribe for updates. The per-car admission is steep, though not when you share the expedition to the park with up to five other art lovers. We’d tell you more, but Tufte has posted a highway-style sign that cautions: Old words deform new seeing So go and see. As only you can. edwardtufte.com
THE LANGLAIS ART TRAIL, MAINE
From Kittery to Eastport and inland as far north as DoverFoxcroft, plot a course to find as many of Bernard Langlais’s rustic wood sculptures as you can. Hint: There are more than a dozen at the Langlais Art Preserve in Cushing. langlaisarttrail.org
LEMON FAIR SCULPTURE PARK, SHOREHAM, VT
When heading out to view this park’s 50 large-scale
sculptures, bring your checkbook—not because there’s an admission fee, but just in case you find one that would look excellent in your own backyard. lemonfairsculpturepark.com
“MANY CULTURES, ONE HEART,” FRAMINGHAM, MA
In a city famous for a landmark study on heart health, find 32 painted heart sculptures and launch videos with QR codes to hear the diverse artists talk about their creative processes. framinghamcentre common.org/many-culturesone-heart-2
1. THAI: Downtown Portland, ME
Portland has the best Thai food in New England, but that’s due not so much to a pattern of immigration as a constellation of talent. From street food and dumplings to crispy chicken, noodles, and curries, it’s an embarrassment of riches for a city this size. Just outside downtown, Saeng Thai House, Vientiane Market, and Mitr are also worth seeking out. Top stops: Boda, Crispy Gai, Dok Mali, Esaan, Green Elephant, Little Pig, Mi Sen, Mitr, Sabieng, Saeng Thai House, Thai Tree, Vientiane Market
2. PORTUGUESE: Columbia Street, Fall River, MA
Home to the largest concentration of Portuguese Americans in the U.S., Fall River has a food scene to match. Around Columbia Street you’ll find restaurants serving bacalhau (salt cod), grilled octopus, wine-marinated pork with littlenecks, and caldo verde. Bakeries turn out iconic pastéis de nata (custard tarts), massa sovada (sweet bread), and malasadas (doughnuts). Just on the other side of I-195, Portugalia Marketplace is an absolute must, with a dazzling array of Portuguese foods and a whole room devoted to salt cod. Top stops: BarCa, Barcelos Bakery, Caldeiras, Caravela, Europa Pastries, Lou’s Bakery, Michael’s Provision Co., Portugalia Marketplace, Sagres
3. CAMBODIAN: Cambodia Town, Lowell, MA
Lowell’s community of 20,000 Cambodian immigrants and Cambodian-American citizens supports a thriving food scene centered on Pailin Plaza that radiates out to include markets, restaurants, snack shops, and a Southeast Asian Water Festival every August that draws tens of thousands of visitors. If Cambodian food is unfamiliar to you, start with loc lac (marinated beef), kuy teav (noodle soup), and nom kong (Khmer donuts). Top stops: Heng Lay, Kao’s Kitchen, Le Petit Café, New Pailin Market, Peephuptmei, Phnom Penh, Red Rose, Simply Khmer, Yummy Express
4. PERUVIAN: Lower Eagle Hill, East Boston, MA & Chelsea, MA
East Boston’s Lower Eagle Hill neighborhood has the highest concentration of Peruvian gems, with Rincon Limeño and Pollos a la Brasa Beto’s leading the charge. But Chelsea also earns a spot on our list because it’s the home of Tambo 22, where chef Jose Duarte serves up excellent ceviches, lomo saltado (beef stir fry), and grilled trout with saffron butter. Top stops: Frio Rico, Pollos a la Brasa Beto’s, Rincon Limeño, Tambo 22, Tutti Frutti
5. MIDDLE EASTERN: Watertown & West Cambridge, MA
The draw here isn’t restaurant density but market density. Watertown has the third-largest Armenian population in the country, and while Armenia is not part of the Middle East, it shares many of its culinary traditions. At the four main markets—Arax, Sevan, Massis, and Eastern Lamejun—you’ll find shelves and refrigerated cases loaded with spices, pita, labneh, hummus, olives, dates, feta, and pastries. Nearby Sofra does superlative farm-to-table sweets and savories inspired by Middle Eastern flavors. Top stops: Arax Market, Eastern Lamejun Bakers, Fastachi, Fordee’s Falafel & Deli, Massis Bakery, Sevan Bakery, Sofra
6. CHINESE: Chinatown, Boston
This choice may seem obvious, but what’s remarkable is the vitality and variety to be found in a community that has survived for 150 years. From the modern fusion cooking and technicolor cocktails of Shojo to the stellar Peking duck at recent arrival Jiang Nan—not to mention any number of ramen, bubble tea, dim sum, and bakery spots—this beautiful corner of the city is worth exploring again and again. Top stops: Friendship BBQ, Hei La Moon, Ho Yuen Bakery, Jiang Nan, Nan Xiang Express, Peach Farm, Shojo, Taiwan Bakery, Taiwan Café, Winsor Dim Sum Café
7. ITALIAN: Federal Hill, Providence, RI
Begin your food crawl at DePasquale Square to take in the dolce vita vibes, followed by a walk through Venda Ravioli, where boxes of fresh pasta cry out to be consumed with the house-made bolognese, a shower of parmigiano, and thin slices of mortadella. After that, choosing a restaurant is tough. Camille’s has held court for 110 years, while Massimo serves a great carbonara in midcentury-modern digs and Costantino’s does wood-fired pizza. Be sure to end with sweet sfogliatelle from Scialo Brothers.
Top stops: Angelo’s Civita Farnese, Camille’s, Caserta Pizzeria, Cassarino’s, Costantino’s, Massimo, Pane e Vino, Scialo Brothers Bakery, Venda Ravioli
8. WEST AFRICAN/AFRICAN DIASPORA: Nubian Square, Roxbury, MA
There’s a new energy in Nubian Square (formerly Dudley Square), long the center of Black culture in Boston—particularly with the opening of Nubian Markets, a combination grocery store, halal butchery, café, and community space. A short stroll through these streets will bring you the flavors of West Africa, Jamaica, Ethiopia, and the soul food of the American South.
Top stops: Fasika Café, Maxine’s on Saint James, Nubian Markets, P&R, RedRed Kitchen, Slade’s Bar & Grill, Suya Joint
9. BRAZILIAN: The Hollow, Bridgeport, CT
About 20 percent of Connecticut’s Brazilian population lives in Bridgeport, and the epicenter can be found in this neighborhood northwest of downtown. Many restaurants are churrascarias, where charcoal-grilled meats are served alongside buffets loaded with pão de queijo (cheese rolls), feijoada (bean, beef, and pork stew), and salads—but save room for flan.
Top stops: Don Raphael, Pantanal, Rancho Pantanal, Terra Brasilis
The job of a Boston Freedom Trail interpreter isn’t for the faint of heart. Encompassing 16 nationally significant sites in an hour and a half, the tours can’t just be a dry history lesson. The work clothes—aka colonial costumes—are a complicated affair. And when tour groups can number nearly 100 at a time, expert guidance through Boston’s creative traffic patterns is essential. Here are five who have answered the call.
CHRIS JOAZARD
AGE: 25 | FROM: Brockton, MA
YEARS ON THE JOB: 6 | PORTRAYS: Crispus Attucks, the first person killed in the Boston Massacre
“The minute I put on the costume and walk outside, I feel like I’m representing the city. When you’re wearing regular clothes people don’t notice you, but when you’re in this outfit people see you. And I embrace that, because when tourists come to Boston, they’re looking for that colonial history. I wave, I smile, I strut down the street. I walk around like I own the clothes, like I’m going out to a nice party.”
JOSH RUDY
AGE: 49 | FROM: Randolph, MA
YEARS ON THE JOB: 13 | PORTRAYS: Captain Daniel Malcolm, merchant and smuggler
“Your audience’s knowledge of American history really varies. Sometimes people know nothing. Others know quite a bit. But most fall in between, where things are fuzzy. Maybe they remember something about the Stamp Act or something called the Boston Massacre, but it’s all not connected. That’s what the tours do: They make those connections and give the events context. This event leads to the next event, and then what you get is revolution. History begins to click into place.”
AGE: 24 | FROM: Arlington, MA
YEARS ON THE JOB: 2 | PORTRAYS: Mercy Otis Warren, writer and historian
“Boston is unique because its historic sites and the modern day are really close together, and even integrated. One of my favorite tour stops is the Old Corner Bookstore, which is now home to a Chipotle. People don’t like to see that, but I’m like, No, this is what makes Boston special: It’s a city that people live in and it’s always changing. People have been building upon the past for hundreds of years…and I think that makes the history feel more relevant.”
AGE: 40 | FROM: South Boston, MA
YEARS ON THE JOB: 7 | PORTRAYS: Henry Knox, Revolutionary War captain
“I’m, like, a fat guy and Knox was a historical fat guy, and so I commiserate with him that way. I can also say it’s the best job I’ve ever had. I’m outside, leading people around Boston, and I’m meeting folks from all around the world. It gives me a chance to learn about where they come from and what their cultures are like, and to see Boston through their eyes. That’s really special.”
AGE: 42 | FROM: Dorchester, MA
YEARS ON THE JOB: 7 | PORTRAYS: Phillis Wheatley, poet
“My favorite spot to point out on the tour? It’s actually the monument to Chevalier de Saint-Sauveur [a high-ranking French officer killed in a Boston riot in 1778]. City leaders had promised to build one but didn’t until the French ambassador comes in 1916 and asks to see it. They say, ‘Yeah, yeah, no problem—come back tomorrow.’ And they throw this thing up overnight. The cement is still wet when the ambassador is there, but everyone is like, Better late than never.”
WITH 45 ACRES AND TENS OF THOUSANDS OF OBJECTS ON DISPLAY, VERMONT’S SHELBURNE MUSEUM IS NEW ENGLAND’S BEST TREASURE HUNT. HERE ARE SEVEN HISTORIC JEWELS TO DISCOVER.
By Mel Allen
To someone who has never visited Shelburne Museum: Forget what you think a museum is. Instead, imagine driving a winding country road. Encountering sights both stunning and unexpected, you want to stop around every curve. You planned to go for an hour or two, but—not wanting to miss anything—you keep driving. And in the end, you’re sorry when it’s time to turn for home. That is what exploring Shelburne Museum’s campus of awe-inspiring art and history feels like.
Founded in the town of Shelburne in 1947, the museum is the singular creation of Electra Havemeyer Webb, who was driven to collect—and display—everything and anything that caught her eye. Raised in an opulent New York home with European masterworks on the walls, she found inexhaustible delight in carvings, decoys, and dolls. She loved whimsy (where else can you see the world’s largest collections of glass canes and trivets?) and exquisite crafts. In creating what she called “a collection of collections,” she pursued art, architecture, and artifacts until her death in 1960. “Some people have the place and find the piece,” she once said. “Not I. I buy the piece and find the place.” Her vision. Your gift.
Circus Building miniatures. Behold two magnificent obsessions with making a tiny world. Roy Arnold’s 500-foot-long circus parade showcases his 30-year devotion to hand-carving 4,000 tiny figures in intricate detail (the wagon wheels even have working brakes). Sharing space is Edgar Kirk’s 3,500-piece miniature three-ring circus, crafted with a penknife and a jigsaw over nearly half a century.
Electra Havemeyer Webb Memorial Building. A “masterpiece” theater unfolds in an intimate setting. In these seven rooms re-created from Webb’s Park Avenue apartment, you can get close to works by the likes of Monet and Rembrandt. (Art lovers will also want to drop into the nearby
uncommon talents to make their way into a male-dominated world of arts and crafts. One highlight among many: Patty Yoder’s contemporary hooked rugs portraying life on her Vermont farm.
Webb Gallery of American Art to spy one of Webb’s final acquisitions, Andrew Wyeth’s heart-stopping Soaring.)
Ticonderoga. Yes, that is a real 220-footlong paddle-wheel steamboat that plied Lake Champlain more than a century ago. In one of Webb’s most improbable pursuits of an eye-catching relic, the “Ti ” arrived in 1955 after a months-long journey of being hauled, foot by foot, across two miles of rugged terrain.
The Dana-Spencer Textile Galleries at Hat and Fragrance. If quilters and embroiderers had a hall of fame, it would look a lot like this. In addition to more than 700 quilts, the collection includes fine examples of samplers, hooked rugs, and woven coverlets, revealing how women used
Stagecoach Inn folk art. Grandma Moses herself celebrated her 100th birthday at this temple of folk art—Webb’s truest love—set in a 1783 Vermont inn. Beginning with a cigar-store figure she bought at age 19, Webb acquired a lifetime trove of weathervanes, trade signs, and regional artwork long before they were considered collector’s items.
Dorset House decoys. Nature and art become one in these 1,400 wildfowl decoys created by the most accomplished 19th- and 20th-century crafters. Webb’s collection played a major role in such decoys being recognized as unique American art.
Round Barn carriages. Inside the 1901 Shaker-style Round Barn lies Shelburne Museum’s origin story: After her husband’s family gifted her 28 elegant horse-drawn carriages in 1946, Webb wanted to preserve and display them for the public. Gaze at the
gold satin-lined interior of an 1890 Million et Guiet Berlin Coach, and imagine riding like royalty. Then stroll among the barn’s nearly 200 horse-drawn wagons, stagecoaches, and sleighs to see how ordinary New Englanders moved around, too. shelburnemuseum.org
Newport (RI) International Polo Series
BEGINS JUNE 1
Prescott Park Arts Festival
Portsmouth’s annual party by the Piscataqua kicks off with a chowder fest—just a taste of what’s to come between now and September in an unforgettable 50th anniversary season of concerts, movies, live theater, and more. Portsmouth, NH; prescottpark.org
BEGINS JUNE 1
Newport International Polo Series
Held on Saturdays through September, this horsey tradition
hits the family trifecta: affordable (free lawn seating for kids under 15); dog-friendly (leashed, please); and fun (let the divot stomping commence!). Newport, RI; nptpolo.com
JUNE 4 - 6
Jimmy Fund Scooper Bowl
Grab a spoon and get your game face on for the nation’s largest all-you-can-eat ice cream festival. The cherry on top: Proceeds go to cancer care and research. Boston, MA; jimmyfund.org
JUNE 8 - 9
Vermont Days
It’s a free-for-all weekend in the Green Mountain State, with 60-plus state parks and historic sites open sans admission. (Casting around for more deals? Free Fishing Day is June 8.) fpr.vermont.gov
“WHAT, ME WORRY? THE ART AND HUMOR OF MAD MAGAZINE”
Hello, Neuman…and Fonebone, Kaputnik, and all the rest from MAD’s seven silly, subversive decades. With 150 original cartoons and illustrations, the Norman Rockwell Museum hosts this dive into a visual kiddie pool with grown-up depth. Opening weekend 6/8 – 6/9; runs through 10/27. Stockbridge, MA; nrm.org
JUNE 9
Boston Hong Kong Dragon Boat Festival
Watch some 2,000 paddlers at the oldest dragon boat festival in the nation. Soak up some culture, too, from classical Chinese music to martial arts demonstrations and origami-making. Boston, MA; bostondragonboat.org
JUNE 22 -23
NASCAR Weekend
Radio-controlled cars, kid-size electric cars, DIY Lego cars,
and video-game cars will keep youngsters plenty revved up for Sunday’s big NASCAR Cup Series race at the New Hampshire Motor Speedway. Loudon, NH; nhms.com
JUNE 23 - 29
Windjammer Days
Maine’s historic sailing fleet inspires a packed-to-the-gills schedule that includes pirate antics, a cod relay race, fireworks, and a harbor-spanning tugof-war. Boothbay Harbor, ME; boothbayharborwindjammerdays.org
Aroostook County. Fort Fairfield, ME; mainepotatoblossomfestival.com
JULY 26 - 28
JULY 4
Bristol Fourth of July Parade
“America’s most patriotic town” shows off its star-spangled bona fides with a parade that draws some 200,000 spectators and caps off the nation’s oldest Independence Day celebration (est. 1785). Bristol, RI; fourthofjulybristolri.com
JULY 13 - 21
Potato Blossom Festival
Potato sack race, check. Potato picking contest, yep. Mashed potato wrestling? We did not have that on our bingo card, but it’s here, along with dozens more events that make up this nine-day spud-tastic party in the heart of
Lowell Folk Festival
Take your kids on a world vacation at the country’s longest-running free folk festival, where the music, dancing, crafts, and food might hail from any of the seven continents except one. Sorry, Antarctica. Lowell, MA; lowellfolkfestival.org
JULY 26 - AUG. 4
Vermont Blueberry Festival
The Deerfield Valley’s annual fruit-palooza is filled with so many all-ages activities, families will be left feeling positively (blueberry-) glazed over. See website for locations; vermontblueberryfestival.com
JULY 31 - AUG. 4
Maine Lobster Festival
More than 10 tons of lobster is claws for celebration in Rockland, where the feasting is punctuated by such events as the lobster crate race, downtown parade, and sea goddess coronation. Rockland, ME; mainelobsterfestival.com
AUG. 2 - 4
Festival of Fools
Street performances of circus arts, music, and comedy run nonstop in downtown Burlington. Worried that you’ve missed seeing a knockout act? The grand finale has ’em all. Burlington, VT; vermontfestivaloffools.com
AUG. 3 - 4
Redcoats & Rebels
Back-in-time goes over the top as hundreds of folks in Revolutionary War costume descend on Old Sturbridge Village for the largest military re-enactment in New England. Sturbridge, MA; osv.org
AUG. 12 - 16
Hampton Beach
Children’s Festival
New Hampshire’s iconic beach town invites waves of youngsters
with free magic shows, mini golf, storytelling, ice cream, and a huge costume parade where everyone gets a prize. Hampton Beach, NH; hamptonbeach.org
AUG. 24 - 25
Schemitzun
Be welcomed into sights, sounds, and flavors of indigenous culture at the Mashantucket Pequot Tribal Nation’s annual harvest celebration, as one of America’s oldest Indian reservations showcases the talents of today’s native performers, artists, and craftspeople. Mashantucket, CT; schemitzun.com
I’ve lived in and around Boston for more than 20 years, and I love its constant interplay between old and new, history and innovation, cityscape and sea. Here’s my idea of a perfect summer weekend, with pleasures at every price point. Let’s start with your lodging.
This Dutch hotel chain promises affordable luxury by offering small rooms with king beds, great sheets, and rain showers, plus art-packed common spaces for hanging out, working, and sipping coffee or a cocktail with a city view. A new Back Bay location is scheduled to join the original North Station hotel this summer. (Note: Prices can spike when TD Garden is hosting playoffs or concerts, so plan ahead.) Boston; citizenm.com
The Whitney Hotel
The Whitney’s iconic Beacon Hill location comes with Charles River views and Charles Street right outside your door. After a day’s sightseeing, luxurious touches (excellent linens, soaking tub and/or rain shower, in-room dining from house restaurant Peregrine) welcome you home. Boston; whitneyhotelboston.com
A 20-minute hike from either hotel brings you to Downtown Crossing and your first adventure.
Yes, you should also walk the Freedom Trail through Boston’s Revolutionary history. But this path from Boston to Cambridge celebrates local cutting-edge achievements such as the invention of the telephone, the first surgery under anesthesia, and the decoding of a large part of the human genome. Visit 20 sites on a self-guided walk, or join a seasonal tour. Boston and Cambridge; theinnovationtrail.org
From Cambridge, cross back over the Longfellow Bridge and head to Charles Street to browse, read, and enjoy a cup of tea. Later, a stroll across Boston Common leads to a terrific dinner destination.
Beacon Hill Books & Café
Both literally and metaphorically, Beacon Hill Books is a storybook shop. Set in a restored brick townhouse and boasting five stories of books, abundant reading nooks, author events, and a cozy café serving breakfast, lunch, tea, and after-work snacks (reservations recommended), this is an essential stop. Boston; bhbooks.com
Mooncusser & Moon Bar
In the mood for seafood? This is Boston—of course you are! Chef Carl Dooley has a genius for seafood and tasting menus. Upstairs, Mooncusser serves a prix fixe menu with treats like oysters with bloodorange granita, roasted beet tortellini with duck, and glazed shrimp with harissa butter. Downstairs, Moon Bar offers shareable plates and cocktails with a Latin accent. Boston; mooncusserboston.com
By now, you’ve earned your rest. Retire to your comfy bed, and get ready to start tomorrow right.
Puritan & Company
Pulling off a great brunch is a test for both pastry team and savory team—and it just so happens that the Puritan is all starters and no bench. Brian Mercury turns out the passion fruit brioche, chocolate croissants, and sourdough, while chef-owner Will Gilson makes the shrimp and grits, smoked brisket hash, and brown butter pancakes. After a three-year hiatus, the Puritan brunch is back, and we couldn’t be happier. Cambridge; puritancambridge.com
Break out the sunblock, walking shoes, and maybe even a swimsuit, because now you’re off to hit the water.
The Boston Harbor Islands National Park remains one of Boston’s best—and most underutilized—summer destinations. Among 34 islands, Spectacle stands out for its natural beauty, accessibility, and amenities (read: real bathrooms). After taking the 30-minute ferry from Long Wharf, hike up either of the two drumlins for views of the
city skyline in one direction and historic Boston Light in the other. Take a dip or search for sea glass on the beach (but leave your treasures where you found them—it’s the law). On select summer nights, the park brings in food and drinks and hosts live jazz concerts. Boston; bostonharborislands.org
You’ll return to the mainland a bit salty and fully refreshed. Time to start thinking about dinner. For that, I have three recommendations, each one distinct.
Eastern Standard Kitchen & Drinks
Our hearts broke when Eastern Standard closed in 2020. For more than a decade, it had been the place to celebrate an anniversary or grab drinks before a Red Sox game. The team of Garrett Harker and Jackson Cannon made us all feel welcome and well fed. But now, hurrah! They’re back, in new digs right around the corner. Favorites like the bone marrow, the roasted half-chicken with grilled sourdough, and the butterscotch bread pudding are as good as we remember. Welcome home. Boston; easternstandardboston.com
Jiang Nan
Jiang Nan has become a cult favorite in New York, expanding out of its original Flushing location to Manhattan, Brooklyn, and beyond. Happily, its growing footprint—which includes this Boston outpost, opened last year—hasn’t diluted the impressive cooking. Most popular is the Peking duck, but we’re also crazy for the tapas-style snacks menu, the soup dumplings, and the silky eggplant in spicy garlic sauce. Boston; jiangnanny.com
Urban Hearth
Eating at this 24-seat restaurant feels like being invited into the home of your most talented foodie friend. Chef-owner Erin Miller treats dining as a communal event: warm service; a friendly, open kitchen (go for the tasting menu at the chef’s counter); deep relationships with local farmers and producers. The menu changes seasonally, but always start with the buttermilk biscuit and then follow your appetite. You can’t go wrong. Cambridge; urbanhearth.net
Anchored by New England’s third-largest lake, Winnipesaukee, this aptly named vacation playground contains more than 250 freshwater pools. Scenic cruises, leisurely hikes, and culturally and culinarily vibrant downtowns appeal to visitors of all ages. Start your adventure on the southern tip of Winnipesaukee in America’s oldest summer resort town, Wolfeboro.
Lake Wentworth Inn
This smartly updated brick motel offers simple but tastefully appointed rooms, some with kitchenettes. The best thing about the cheerful, pet-friendly property is its location: just steps from Albee Beach, on the shore of pristine Lake Wentworth, and two miles from charming downtown Wolfeboro and its lively waterfront on Lake Winnipesaukee. Wolfeboro; lakewentworthinn.com
Pop’s Clam Shell
Celebrate the start of your vacay with a seafood feast. All summer long you’ll see happy diners on the second-floor deck of this 1940s restaurant watching seaplanes take off and land on Alton Bay while they devour baskets of whole fried clams, cheeseburgers, haddock sandwiches, and lobster rolls. Place your order at the window, and don’t forget to add a side of crispy onion rings. Alton; popsclamshell.com
Spend your first day getting to know rippling Lake Winnipesaukee by plying its waters or visiting some lofty viewpoints around its shoreline.
SIGHTSEEING
Mount Washington Cruises
For spectacular views of the lake and surrounding hills—plus a lesson in the region’s colorful history and folklore—take a scenic 2½-to-3-hour narrated cruise around Lake Winnipesaukee on the stately MS Mount Washington. The seasonal
cruises depart daily from Weirs Beach and most days from Wolfeboro, too. Brunch and sunset dinner cruises are also great fun. Laconia; cruisenh.com
Castle in the Clouds
Built in 1914 to the then-astounding tune of $7 million, this fabulously opulent stone mansion crowns a 5,200-acre estate with miles of wooded hiking trails. Learn about the eccentric original owner on a colorful guided tour, and savor a delicious lunch or live-music dinner (offered three nights a week in summer) on the Carriage House terrace, with its sweeping lake panoramas. Moultonborough; castleintheclouds.org
HIKE
Mount Major
For a dazzling aerial view of Lake Winnipesaukee, lace up your hiking boots and embark on the rugged but rewarding 3.6-mile loop trek to the top of this 1,786-foot-elevation mountain. The ascent is precipitous but well-marked and comfortably shaded, and you can see the White Mountains from the rocky summit, which is also a lovely perch for a picnic. Alton; forestsociety.org/property/mountmajor-reservation
After burning off some calories with a hike or whetting your appetite on a scenic lake cruise, reward yourself with a scoop of fresh-made ice cream or perhaps a pint or two of local ale.
Social Club Creamery
This newcomer opened in 2023 near the south end of Paugus Bay, in historic downtown Laconia and just a 10-minute drive from the kid-approved amusements of Weirs Beach. Social Club serves small-batch ice cream in distinctive flavors like roasted strawberry and maple latte (a collaboration with nearby Wayfarer Coffee Roasters). Laconia; socialclubcreamery.com
BEST SIGHTSEEING:
Mount Washington Cruises, Laconia
Twin Barns Brewing Co.
Named for its location inside two striking mid-19th-century red barns in the resort community of Meredith, this first-rate brewery has ample seating in the highceilinged taproom and outside in the sprawling biergarten. Regulars swear by Twin Barns’ roasty Burlwood Porter, full-bodied Lake Cruiser DIPA, and crisp Blackey Cove, a Schwarzbier-style beer. The kitchen serves tasty gastropub fare. Meredith; twinbarnsbrewing.com
From the town of Meredith, at the northwest end of Lake Winnipesaukee,
it’s less than a 10-mile drive to smaller, quieter Squam Lake, which served as the filming location for the 1981 Fonda/ Hepburn tearjerker, On Golden Pond.
Walter’s Basin
With both dockside seating and an expansive dining room, this casually stylish restaurant offers unobstructed views of Little Squam Lake and its forested shoreline. The eclectic cuisine is terrific, too, from ahi tuna wontons to a decadent lobster mac and cheese that’s almost impossible for one person to finish. Holderness; waltersbasin.com
The Inn on Golden Pond
The young owners of this 1875 country inn near the shore of Little Squam Lake have given the guest rooms a contemporary makeover, creating an atmosphere that’s both upscale and uncluttered. Rates include a bountiful full country breakfast, and it’s just a two-minute stroll to the inn’s private beach, where guests can borrow kayaks and paddleboards. Holderness; innongoldenpond.com
Squam Lakes Natural Science Center
This remarkable 210-acre environmental
education center situated on the western shore of Squam Lake abounds with engaging, family-friendly activities. You can view enclosures inhabited by native fauna (bears, foxes, river otters, bobcats, and more), amble through gardens and on guided nature walks, and hit the water on loon and eagle cruises narrated by knowledgeable naturalists. Holderness; nhnature.org
Summer days in the city by the sea are a tonic you’ll wish you could bottle and drink up. Squeeze in as many of these can’t-gowrong experiences as you can.
WATERFRONT HOTEL
The Brenton Hotel
Like a ship perched at the edge of possibility, the Brenton sits at the gateway to Newport’s bustling wharves and historic neighborhoods, making it the ideal base for a car-free vacation. Rooms are generously sized, and the best look out at pleasure boats in the harbor. The dreamiest views, though, are reserved for everyone: Just head to the rooftop bar for a citrusy cocktail. Newport; brentonhotel.com
HISTORIC HOTEL
The Vanderbilt
Alfred Gwynne Vanderbilt’s 1909 mansion, later Newport’s YMCA, has been a hotel since the ’90s, but it’s only been this fabulous and photogenic since a top-tobottom renovation in 2022. Book a stay for access to indoor and courtyard pools, spa treatments, and experiences like a scrimshaw class or tea leaf reading. Or pop in for drinks and oysters—or a memorable meal—in settings that exude grandeur. Newport; aubergeresorts.com/vanderbilt
One thing you’ll notice on your first evening in town is there’s typically a breeze: This is America’s sailing capital. Didn’t pack an extra layer? Make a quick stop before dinner.
Whether it’s “Cabernet and Equal Pay” or “Hot Girls Eat Bread,” you might as well sport an attitude when you need to toss a crewneck sweater over your outfit. This flagship brick-and-mortar store from Overseasoned has a feminist bent, but there’s plenty here for anyone who likes to cook. Or who’s raising young girls to be Ruth Bader Ginsburg–level strong and ambitious. Newport; matriarchri.com
As you walk north on Thames Street, other fun shops like the Black Dog General Store and Bite Me Bait will lure you in with sweatshirts and more. But don’t be late for your early dinner reservation.
The Mooring
These tables are so close to the water you’ll hear it splash against the docks as you’re sipping fruity drinks and passing the lobstershrimp fritters. The Mooring’s 40-plus-year presence reflects Newport Restaurant Group’s focus on food and experience. You’ll taste it in the fresh, locally sourced fare from land and sea and feel it in the genuine service provided by team members, most of whom are employee-owners. Newport; mooringrestaurant.com
Ghosts of Newport
For after-dinner “boos,” step into the night on a spine-tingling tour with a theatrical, lantern-toting guide. On a 90-minute Olde Town Ghost Walk, you’ll tread through cemeteries, stroll the city’s creepiest street, and take your best shot at capturing a ghost image with your phone camera. The ghosts of Newport aren’t camera-shy, and their stories will stay with you long after your tour. Newport; ghostsofnewport.com
Wake early for a visit to the grandest of Newport’s mansions, which has been having a star turn in HBO’s The Gilded Age series, followed by a lunch at one of the city’s newest eateries.
The Breakers
Self-guided audio tours, available in five languages, feature a variety of perspectives: You’ll hear from Vanderbilt family members and immigrant staff who kept this 70-room palace and its oceanfront grounds flawless. Want a deeper dive? Book the guided underground tour “Beneath
The Breakers” to see how stuff worked. Newport; newportmansions.org/mansionsand-gardens/the-breakers
Mother Pizzeria
Opened in 2023, Mother slices a unique niche for itself with a sourdough crust (that’s the “mother”), quality toppings (the Notorious F.I.G., capped with figs and prosciutto, is a summer favorite), and a bar serving small-production Italian wines and craft cocktails. The bartenders here love a challenge—prompt them with an ingredient
or two, and they’ll create a drink to match your personal tastes and whatever’s on your plate. Newport; motherpizzeria.com
On a blue-sky summer afternoon, be sure to get out on the water. An island jaunt will whet your appetite for a stellar dinner.
Rose Island Lighthouse
Experienced paddlers can reach Rose Island in a kayak or canoe, but most travelers eager to collect a U.S. Lighthouse Society Passport stamp hop aboard the Jamestown Newport Ferry. Once ashore, there’s more than the 1870 light tower and museum to explore. Learn about the island’s military history, stretching back
to 1780, on a tour of the Fort Hamilton barracks. After August 15, when birdnesting season concludes, you can walk the island’s entire perimeter and trails that probe the interior refuge. A few hours here will convince you to return for an overnight stay. Newport; roseisland.org
A 2024 James Beard Award semifinalist for the Northeast’s best chef, Andy Teixeira is a food artisan who puts his hands in the dirt, makes everything from scratch, relishes the simplicity of early New England cooking methods, and imparts his passion to those working in his three kitchens. With even more fresh produce since Newport
Vineyards added greenhouses and growing fields to the estate, his ever-shifting menus offer a true taste of Rhode Island’s bounty. Teixeira is at his pinnacle during summer’s annual Fire Dinner: cooked over open flames, served among the vines. Middletown; newportvineyards.com
Before departing, check out the eclectic shops and dining spots along Broadway, a district locals dub “six blocks of awesome.”
On Saturdays and Sundays, Broadway’s destination for jerk chicken, red bean stew, and rasta pasta becomes the
place to wake up your taste buds. Sip a honey-sweetened mango and passion fruit smoothie or pour coffee from your own pot while you wait for breakfast favorites like tropical pancakes, chicken and waffles, and egg-topped pork belly bowls. With every dish served on this island, Jamaican husbandand-wife team Dezna Bowen and Abraham Parkes honor their Caribbean homeland’s sunny disposition. Newport; hummingbirdnewport.com
Hot buttered lobster rolls, seaside strolls, and natural beauty await on a two-day meander through this storied region where the Connecticut River meets Long Island Sound.
Madison Beach Hotel,
Curio Collection by Hilton
Check into this stately resort with its own private beach, and you’ll find plenty to please even the most well-traveled guest. The storied hotel was reimagined and rebuilt a dozen years ago with three floors of deluxe rooms, many with balconies and water views. Take a dip in Long Island Sound or unwind in the spa, then dine beachside at The Wharf. Madison; hilton.com/en/ hotels/mpecuqq-madison-beach-hotel
Cristy’s Madison
Set in an 1800s building that once served as a girls’ school, this eatery comprises two cozy, wood-paneled dining rooms with a bar between. In addition to eggs, hash, and sausage plates, there are more than 40 types of pancakes, festooned with fruits, grains, and candies of your choosing. Each stack is topped with generous dollops of butter and snowy sprinklings of powdered sugar. Madison; cristysmadison.com
Hammonasset Beach State Park
You can spend hours exploring two miles of pristine, sandy beach and miles of strolling and biking paths—or unfurl a towel and do precious little. But you don’t want to miss the Meigs Point Nature Center, which offers engaging displays of local flora and fauna, along with explanations of the park’s fragile ecosystem. Madison; ctparks.com/parks/ hammonasset-beach-state-park
Hunger pangs? The best beach-day eats are just outside the park on U.S. Route 1.
The Clam Castle
This old-school stand, a Connecticut shoreline gem since the mid-1960s, serves
up copious baskets of fried seafood, as well as tacos and burritos. Two types of chowder and the lobster bisque make for great openers. Then go for the deep-fried whole-belly clams or the meaty lobster roll. You know you want the jumbo version. Madison; clamcastlect.com
You may regret overindulging, though, when you see what’s for dinner.
She’s a Chinese national, and he’s from nearby Madison, Connecticut. Together, Hu Ping and Jonathan Dolph created a Chinese restaurant that draws food lovers from across the shoreline and beyond. Taste of China specializes in Szechuan cuisine with an inventive menu that includes crispy sesame beef, sizzling shrimp and scallops, and Chengdu duck. Choose from nearly a dozen varieties of Belgian beer, the owners’ favored beverage. Clinton; clintontasteofchinaus.com
Start your second day by motoring up U.S. Route 1 to the classic shoreline town Katharine Hepburn called home.
The Pursuit of Pastry
From croissants and scones to locally famous baked doughnuts, you’ll start the morning sweetly here. There’s a full line of coffees and teas to jolt you awake, too. Enjoy your repast inside the brightly colored café, or head over to nearby Founders Memorial Park, which has photogenic views of the mouth of the Connecticut River. Old Saybrook; pursuitofpastry.com
Harkness Memorial State Park
No visit to the shoreline is complete without a walk through this park’s Jazz Age mansion, Eolia, and its formal gardens and waterfront grounds. The 42-room mansion may be toured on weekends in the summer; the surrounding gardens, created by landscape architect Beatrix Farrand in the 1920s and early ’30s,
may be enjoyed anytime. And there are 242 acres of lawn, pathways, and beachfront for strolling, biking, or just enjoying the panoramic view of Long Island Sound. Waterford; ctparks.com/ parks/harkness-memorial-state-park
Captain Scott’s Lobster Dock
Situated on a thin strip of land between railroad tracks and a pleasure-boat harbor, Captain Scott’s is hard to find but tough to beat when it comes to fresh seafood. Lobster rolls come in both hot and cold varieties, and the deep-fried seafood is plentiful and top-notch, especially the fish-and-chips. Picnic tables radiate out from this funky shack, and there’s often live music on weekends. BYOB—and a tablecloth and flowers if you want to feel fancy. New London; captscottsnl.com
Continue east to Connecticut’s top tourist town, where you may want to bed down for several nights if you’ve never visited headliners like Mystic Seaport Museum and Mystic Aquarium before. Only have one night? It can still be unforgettable.
The Taber Inne and Suites
Just a half mile from downtown Mystic, this sprawling, 12-building property offers a wide variety of accommodations, as well as the area’s largest indoor swimming pool. Each white clapboard building has its own characteristics. Choose from spacious two-story units, a one-story carriage house, or standard hotel-type rooms. Some units have gas-jet fireplaces, Jacuzzis, and private balconies. Mystic; taberinne.com
Shipwright’s Daughter
Chef David Standridge has created a restaurant that stands head and shoulders above most others in food-crazy Mystic. In his bistro at the Whaler’s Inn, the James Beard Award nominee for the Northeast’s best chef may be seen orchestrating the open kitchen and putting the finishing touches on every dish. The seafood comes almost exclusively from nearby docks. Unusual native species like dogfish, scup, sea robin, and monkfish are transformed into plates of seafood wonderment. Mystic; shipwrightsdaughter.com
Acadia National Park is the draw here, but between driving the Park Loop Road, hiking, pedaling, and ogling the eyecandy scenery, you’ll want to take in more highlights of the Acadia region. First, you need a place to stay.
Salt Cottages
These adorable white clapboard cottages with red accents overlook Hull’s Cove, and they’re just a half mile from the park’s visitor center and the start of the Park Loop Road. Refresh with a dip in the oceanview heated pool or a Ping-Pong match in the clubhouse, refuel with light fare from Picnic, and savor s’mores by the firepit. Bar Harbor; saltcottagesbarharbor.com
Bar Harbor Inn
Keep an eye on the harbor action from this oasis of classic elegance and calm with a primo oceanfront location. Only the Shore Path separates it from the rippling waters of Frenchman Bay. Now add two excellent restaurants, a lounge with live entertainment, a spa, and an ocean-view pool with a bar, and you’re truly staying in style. Bar Harbor; barharborinn.com
Once you’re checked in, drive the Park Loop Road at an hour when most park visitors are calling it a day. After catching the sunset from Cadillac Mountain (you’ll need a reservation to drive to the summit), return to town for dinner and dessert.
Havana
This Latin-inspired restaurant has earned raves ever since opening 25-plus years ago. Even then, the menu featured organic and naturally raised meats, sustainably harvested native seafood, and local organic produce. Sit inside or on the covered patio, sip a mojito, and splurge on the lobster moqueca or paella. Bar Harbor; havanamaine.com
Mount Desert Island Ice Cream
With both familiar flavors and innovative ones (cinnamon-cardamom, lemon poppy jam), it’s no wonder MDI Ice Cream always has a line out the door. Before calling it a night, indulge in this high-butterfat treat, scratch-made in five-gallon batches using fresh ingredients and with an emphasis on sustainability. Bar Harbor; fearlessflavor.com
After a restful sleep, explore downtown Bar Harbor’s shops and sights while the crowds head to the park. In the West Street Historic District, admire mansions that survived the Great Fire of 1947. The Bar Harbor Historical Society owns the grandest of these.
La Rochelle Mansion & History Museum
Experience the grandeur of the Gilded Age inside this 41-room Georgian Revival waterfront mansion dating from 1903. Fascinating exhibits focus on Bar Harbor’s cultural and economic history, the lives of year-round and summer residents, and key events such as the Great Fire. Bar Harbor; barharborhistorical.org
Downeast Deli & Boxed Lunch Co.
When the weather’s fine, you won’t want to spend an hour inside at lunchtime. Solution: Picnic in the park or along Bar Harbor’s waterfront. Bypass the line by ordering in advance (you can call until 8 p.m. the day before). Your bagged or boxed lunch includes a hefty sandwich of your choice accompanied by chips, a cookie, and water. The chowder, lobster rolls, and blueberry pie are all top-notch. Bar Harbor; downeastdeli.com
Before heading out for the rest of the day, grab a fleece, a windbreaker, a flashlight, and a telescope or binoculars if you have either. You’ll be thankful later when the sun goes down.
Mount Desert Land & Garden Preserve
Most island visitors know about Thuya, an English garden, and Asticou, a Japaneseinfluenced garden. But there’s more to discover on this 1,400-acre preserve salted with woodlands, streams, and a pond. Trails make it easy to cobble together hikes taking in a variety of wild and cultivated landscapes. You’ll need reservations to view the Beatrix Farrand–designed, Asian-themed Abby Aldrich Rockefeller Garden in Seal Harbor. Northeast Harbor; gardenpreserve.org
After working up an appetite, wander around Somes Sound, a rare fjard, and over to MDI’s quiet side. Mosey through
downtown Southwest Harbor, loop over to Bass Harbor Light, then continue around the base of Bass Harbor and out to Bernard, a traditional Maine fishing village.
Thurston’s Lobster Pound
What makes Thurston’s superlative? Is it the dreamy harborside location? Watching lobstermen unload their catches? Knowing the lobster on your plate came from one of those boats? Maybe it’s breathing in the brine-scented air or catching a fiery sunset from the covered and screened dining decks. Perhaps it’s knowing that Thurston’s is under fifth-generation management. Or it just might be all of the above. Bernard; thurstonforlobster.com
Acadia National Park
Seawall Picnic Area
Marvel at Acadia’s unobstructed dark skies from Seawall, a cobblestone beach offering exceptional views of planets, constellations, and the shimmering Milky Way. It’s nature’s sound and light show, with waves rolling ashore under star-spangled skies. If you’re lucky, perhaps you’ll see a shooting star or even the northern lights. Southwest Harbor; nps.gov/thingstodo/ stargazing-seawall.htm
To truly appreciate Maine’s Acadia Region, you must see it from the sea—and taking a morning cruise before you depart is a fine way to do so.
Dive-In Theater with Diver Ed Hop aboard the Starfish Enterprise for a two-hour cruise that’s equally fun and educational. Diver Ed explores the ocean floor with his undersea camera and Mini Ed (an action-figure toy) and communicates with those above watching the action on a big screen. After rounding up sea critters, he surfaces and shares his finds in touch tanks before returning them to the sea. Bar Harbor; diveintheater.com
Vermont’s southwestern corner was the state’s original tourism draw. In this region dubbed “the Shires,” superlative experiences abound along and around Route 7. Start on Route 11 just east of Manchester, though, with an invigorating ride down a Green Mountains slope.
Bromley Mountain Alpine Slide
It was too good a mountain to save just for winter. Bromley’s ²⁄3-mile-long Alpine Slide invites summer fans of the vertical drop to pilot wheeled sleds down one of the world’s longest runs. There are three tracks, the most thrilling of which takes riders through a snaky series of banked turns. Yes, there are brakes. Peru; bromley.com
The Little Rooster Café
A favorite spot for locals and visitors alike, this cheery diner near the outlet malls is the place to fuel up for the rest of your day’s ramble. Hearty is the word here—look for stacks of pancakes with Vermont maple syrup, corned beef hash with béchamel sauce, and sandwiches including a terrific Reuben. Manchester; Facebook
There’s much more to Manchester than outlet shopping. Two stately summer homes invite you in.
Southern Vermont Arts Center
Treasures from the American Regionalist movement have no better home than this 120-acre museum complex, created by and for Vermont artists. Ten galleries in a 1917 mansion show off a permanent collection of 1,000-plus paintings, etchings, and sculptures. The center also hosts rotating exhibitions, concerts, and theatrical performances and maintains the largest sculpture garden in Vermont. Manchester; svac.org
Hildene
One summer sojourner lured by southwestern Vermont was Robert Todd Lincoln, Abraham Lincoln’s son. The railroad car executive chose Manchester as the site for Hildene, his 1905 neoGeorgian retreat. Unlike many mansions
By Bill SchellerThe Equinox Golf Resort & Spa
Behind the colonnade on Route 7A stands
of the era, this one seems cozily livable. It’s furnished in period style, from parlors to servants’ quarters, and is graced by formal gardens. A sumptuously restored 1903 Pullman sleeping car is preserved on-site. Manchester; hildene.org
Options for overnighting abound in the Shires. Go big at a legendary resort, or head a short way up Route 30 for cozy quarters and live theater.
Vermont’s earliest grand hotel, evolved from a pre-Revolutionary inn to a 1,300-acre resort with a full-service spa, an 18-hole golf course, and exhilarating recreational options including a Land Rover driving experience. Dine at the Chop House, where steak and seafood star, or the informal Marsh Tavern, an homage to the resort’s colonial origins. Manchester; equinoxresort.com
Dorset Inn
Vermont’s oldest hostelry in continuous operation has welcomed guests since 1796.
Several of the 24 rooms and suites are located in the original building facing the village green. Many have gas fireplaces, four-poster beds, and whirlpool tubs. Breakfast and dinner, served indoors or on the patio, reflect the inn’s membership in the Vermont Fresh Network, committed to forging relationships between farmers and chefs. Dorset; dorsetinn.com
Dorset Theatre Festival
Nearly a century ago, theater lovers summering in Vermont cobbled together a playhouse out of two 18th-century barns and began a tradition of presenting new plays and repertory favorites. Since 1977,
the Dorset Playhouse has been home to a professional equity festival committed to that tradition and dedicated to nurturing more than a dozen new works each year. Dorset; dorsettheatrefestival.org
Yesterday, you rocketed down one mountainside; now ascend another at a statelier pace.
Mount Equinox Skyline Drive
Drive to the pinnacle of the Taconic Range on a 5.2-mile paved road. Vistas along the way and at the 3,848-foot summit reach east toward Vermont’s Green Mountains, south into Massachusetts and the
Berkshires, and west to the Adirondacks in New York. The mountain is owned by Carthusian monks, whose granite charter house is visible along the drive. Arlington; equinoxmountain.com
Continue south to one of Vermont’s oldest settlements, a town that gave its name to a turning-point battle in the American Revolution.
Bennington Battle Monument
The 1777 Battle of Bennington was actually fought just across the New York border. But it was an American supply depot here that the British unsuccessfully sought—thus the name, and the 306foot limestone obelisk dedicated in 1891. Other than communication and wind turbine towers, it’s the tallest structure in Vermont, and the top is accessible by elevator for views extending into New York and Massachusetts. Bennington; benningtonbattlemonument.com
Nearby, seek out Robert Frost’s poetic gravestone at Old First Church. Then, tuck yourself in just north of Bennington after a hearty dinner at a lively local spot.
LOCAL HANGOUT
Madison Brewing Company
Thirty years on, this college-town stalwart remains a template for the Vermont brewpub idea: Start with a solid line of well-crafted brews ranging from thirst-quenching lagers to powerful stouts and porters (and, of course, IPAs), and add a menu built around burgers, big sandwiches, and comfort-food standbys like pot roast and fish-and-chips. There’s a full bar, too. Bennington; madisonbrewingco.com
The Arlington Inn & Spa
An 1848 Greek Revival mansion is the centerpiece of this three-building complex. Several rooms in the Main and Carriage houses have gas fireplaces; two Parsonage units feature private patios; all accommodations include a continental breakfast in a sunny solarium. Relax with a craft cocktail in Deming Tavern or with a solo or couple’s massage. Arlington; arlingtoninn.com
Ten years ago, Jarrod McCabe and Dominic Casserly, working as a photo duo then known as Little Outdoor Giants, joined an expedition to follow Thoreau’s journey through Maine’s North Woods to mark the 150th anniversary of his essay collection The Maine Woods. What they brought back after 16 arduous days of paddling and portaging canoes became one of Yankee’s most heralded photo stories, and one I will never forget.
Later they hiked and photographed nearly 70 miles of the most rugged terrain in the East: New Hampshire’s Presidential Traverse. They crossed 11 summits and slept in eight high-mountain huts. The images they published in Yankee brought readers right into the comradeship, physical pain, and beauty and wonder that they experienced.
Now working under the name Giant Giants, McCabe and Casserly combine creativity with uncommon stamina and a determination to ignore crushing fatigue in pursuit of their outdoor photos. These pages, however, show another side of the duo’s work: the gentleness of a summer day by the water.
The photos are taken from a decade-long selfdescribed “passion project.” McCabe and Casserly first met on a Massachusetts lake, and ever since then they have sought out river pools, waterfalls, lakes, ocean beaches, water parks they knew as children—anywhere they can plunge in and feel the joy of water.
At times it seems they embark on their adventure treks just for the bliss of finishing the trip with a swim. And in fact, Casserly likes to end his days with a twilight dip in his local Massachusetts lake, “a magical thing to get to do, day in and day out, and see the moods of New England…some swims are glassy pristine, others stormy with whitecaps.”
Let yourself sink into these images. Imagine the summer heat, the bracing splash, the quick intake of breath. The feel of waves rippling against skin. Join these two gifted photographers in rediscovering the delightful buoyancy of being a child again, and just jumping in. —Mel Allen
captions
previous spread: “This image is of our good friend and fellow Massachusetts native Hannah Koski. It was shot at Dom’s all-time favorite lake, his hometown lake, which we’re going to keep secret here. Like most New England town lakes, it has a beach, a swim area with a dock in the summer, a bit of forest and shade, a dirt parking lot, and a public boat launch. Dom learned to swim here and then lifeguarded for years, and now he swims across the lake every evening at sunset. It’s nothing special by lake standards, but to be able to come here on a hot summer day to cool off makes it the jewel of the town.”
this spread: “This stunning ocean view from the ‘old’ parking lot at the Beachcomber restaurant, overlooking Cahoon Hollow Beach on the Cape Cod National Seashore, is a great example of why we love the Cape. Sure, it can get crowded, but not as bad as some other New England beaches—plus the chilly beauty of the Atlantic against the sweltering sand makes lugging your beach kit up and down the steep dunes worthwhile. And at the end of the day, you can enjoy some stiff drinks and fresh oysters before you head home.”
above: “Even though we love quiet nature swims and secluded waterfalls, there’s something truly special about spending a day at Water Country in Portsmouth, New Hampshire. When the wave pool gets going, it’s wild—you can bring a tube and enjoy being a kid again!” below: “Dom floats amid the cascades coming off Cannon Mountain in New Hampshire’s Franconia Notch State Park. There’s hundreds of little granite pools like this one along I-93 and the Pemigewasset River, and we’ll frequently stop on the way back from a White Mountains hike to frolic and slide along the waterfalls into the cooling waters.”
above: “For a commercial job we spent a few days in Vermont documenting life at a classic New England summer camp, the kind of place where they build forts out of sticks, pump their own drinking water, and cool off in this river-fed puddle of a pond. It’s everything we look for in a swimming hole: quiet, natural, without pretense.” below: “This is a shot from another commercial job, where the project was for us to pitch our ‘most summery day.’ So we took some friends to a private dock on one of the clearest, cleanest Massachusetts lakes we’ve swam in, Sherborn’s Farm Pond.”
“We captured this image during a glorious end-ofsummer wedding day on Chappaquiddick Island just off Martha’s Vineyard. The wedding was small and intimate, and we were hanging out having a simple backyard barbecue with fresh seafood. It was a hot day, so we donned our swimsuits and made our way down to the home’s private pier. Without any fanfare, a family friend who knew the property well climbed on top of one of the pilings and proceeded to land this perfect backflip. One of our all-time favorite summer shots, this photo just says everything that we’re about here in New England.”
To see more of Jarrod McCabe and Dominic Casserly’s work, go to giantgiants.com.
cabin, where I heated it on the always-stoked woodstove. I lived at one end of the lake, and, after writing all morning, I would walk across the ice to visit with Alice Rounds, the postmistress and owner of L.R. Rounds General Store, the village’s social hub. The store was separated from the post office by short swinging doors, and Alice’s cry, “I’ll be right there!” bounced back and forth between the two. I had never sent stories to magazines before that year, and whenever I delivered something I’d written into her hands, Alice would wish it a fruitful journey. In a Maine vil lage where locals took their time warming up to newcomers, she skipped the preliminaries and became a friend.
I tell you this because one of those stories had landed at Yankee . It was published in the October 1977 issue, my first byline in this magazine. I wrote about Waterford— the lake, a scenic moun tain hike, orchards, a gem of a restaurant, and worthy sites overlooked by most trav elers. The story ran without pho tos. Only black type on white paper. Yet within a few days of Yankee ’s arrival in their mailboxes, readers came to Waterford to see for themselves. A local cidermaker told me people brought their copy and asked for his autograph. The chefowner of the small French restaurant said he was taking reservations for days. Alice’s store had never seen so many new people at one time. Yankee had said, Here is what you can see and do here. And so they came.
I never forgot that trust that readers have in us. So, in setting out to describe my most unforgettable places and experiences over these past decades, I combed through memories as if choosing from hundreds of family photos, knowing I can frame only a precious few. What exactly sears a place into memory is undefinable. It may be the power of a beautiful landscape or the exhilaration of a risky adventure; sometimes, it’s simply the people I met whose stories touched me. And in making my choices, I wanted to be sure that these experiences are still out there today—for you, the readers, who may be looking to make memories of your own.
erhaps because I was raised as far from wilderness as you can imagine, I sought stories in places so remote that sometimes you needed a bush pilot to get there. No wonder I was drawn to the North Woods of Maine. If you have never set foot in Chesuncook Village…or canoed on the West Branch of the Penobscot River, where moose browse in the shallows…or had a Registered Maine Guide take you miles out onto West Grand Lake… or traveled to the end of the road in Allagash Village, you may not know how far the cry of coyotes can carry, how close the stars can seem on New England’s darkest nights. One winter when my son Dan was still a baby, I strapped him onto my lap in a floatplane that took off from Moose head Lake. We soon put down on the ice of Chamberlain Lake. That’s where I found Patty Nugent and her Nugent’s Camps, one of the most famous sporting camps in the state. Patty, then 81, met us with a snowmobile and a “driver” to carry us through deep snow to the cabins that she and her husband, Al, had carved from the forest 50 years earlier. And over the next four days, while baby Dan was passed hand to hand among the small winter staff like a puppy, Patty told me their story.
It began in the summer of 1936, when Patty and Al stowed all their belongings on a handmade raft and paddled across Chamberlain Lake until they reached its eastern shore. This was back when you could stake claim to
wild lands, and they had planned to build a sporting camp for fishermen and hunters. She told me about how they found the perfect location as if the memory had been preserved under glass for her to admire the rest of her life.
“We started up the lake in a canoe, looking for a camp site,” she said. “Went up one side, came down the other. I looked across and saw a little green knoll. Nuge said it was located where the prevailing wind would keep the flies away. He put his arm on my shoulder and said, ‘Just right, little girl. This is just right.’” Years later, after the Nugents had gained national fame for their sporting camp, Al died of a heart attack while clearing wood. Patty put a stone on his grave with the words “Just Right.”
Suddenly the dusk sky was filled with a torrent of great blue herons coming home to roost, the sounds of their rookery making me feel as if I had wandered into a secret prehistoric society.
The biologist was crawling into the dens of bears he had radio-collared months earlier. His task was to monitor how they were faring. I crawled in after him to watch as he jabbed a tranquilizer dart into one mother, her cubs snugged up against her; he would need her to stay docile as he took each youngster outside the den to weigh and measure it. I’ll never forget the dank closeness of that space, or the life lesson I learned not long after exiting it: When a bear biologist hands you a net to drape across a den to ensure mother and babies stay separated, remember to ask, Are you sure you gave her enough tranquilizer? This particular bear, protecting her home, erupted from the den. A clamped jaw on my gloved hand and then my leg revealed her raw power, even though she had not eaten for months. It was worth the follow-up tetanus shot to always keep the memory of a bear living a life “forever wild” in the flesh.
At the end of the four days, Patty bid us good-bye as we waited for the floatplane to pick us up. And I can still hear her parting words: “I’d give everything back in a minute for just one night to do over. The night me and Nuge pushed off and floated so slow up the lake, and in the dawn I looked across and saw that little green knoll.”
f I could have chosen where I’d want to be when a mama black bear bit me, it would’ve been right where I was: in the snowy depths of Baxter State Park, alongside Maine’s black bear biologist. The park’s 200,000-plus acres are the most revered stretch of wilderness in New England, and to me the grandest place to step away from the comforts of daily life. (If you don’t know Baxter, look on a state map for the big green patch about 85 miles north of Bangor.) Former governor Percival Baxter spent more than 30 years buying up these mountains, rivers, lakes, and dense forests before giving it all to the people of Maine to be kept “forever wild.”
he beauty of the New England coast rivals any in the world. After sailing Maine’s Penobscot Bay on a windjammer, I wrote about the tight quarters and the need for nighttime earplugs to dampen fellow passengers’ snores—yet also about the intimacy that we felt with the bay and its islands, a feeling no ocean liner could ever give. I have witnessed sunsets around the world, but never one that could compare to when we anchored off a small island, color spreading so intensely across the sky that everyone fell silent.
And how do I choose one beach? I have walked Maine’s Popham Beach at low tide to Fox Island, then scampered back when the tide started to rise; ridden across the windswept dunes of the Cape Cod National Seashore; inhaled the solitude of Rhode Island’s Napatree Point. With New England’s hundreds of miles of beaches, I cannot explain why a barely half-mile stretch of sand eight miles south of Portland remains special to me, except I think Higgins Beach has always been where I’d want to live, looking out to the twinkling lights of Prouts Neck at night. It was here that I slept in my all-time favorite room: the Tower Room at The Breakers, a modest inn, as comfy as a favorite sweater, that’s been family-run since 1957. The room came with inconveniences (third floor, low ceiling), but its eight windows let in light and breeze, and the breaking of the waves sounded as clear as if I were lying on the sand. I awoke to the sunrise and settled before the windows in a rocking chair. There had been a storm, so the sea boomed. Just beyond a window, the flag waved. All the while I sat listening, almost as if waiting for the cry to hoist sails.
ne of the gifts that Yankee ’s longtime editor, Jud Hale, gave me was his blessing to find adventures. I was only the second journalist to join Wayne Hockmeyer, Maine’s whitewater rafting pioneer, in plunging through the ferocious rapids of the Kennebec Gorge. I will always carry the mix of fear and adrenaline I felt when Hockmeyer told us, “A river gives no guarantees. If you are careless, you can go out.”
Eight years later I coaxed my sister, Anita, and her 12-year-old son, Adam, to join me. Anita was just a year older than me, but she was a city girl. To her, “outdoor adventure” meant a drive in the country. I told her about The Forks and its community of rafting companies with their lodges, hot tubs, and restaurants; I left out Magic Falls and its 12-foot drop, where the pressure on the raft can shoot you like a champagne cork into the waiting Kennebec.
When Anita fell ill some years after, and we both knew the outcome, we would talk about all the things we had done together, from childhood to then. And we always found a way to laugh, remembering how no matter how afraid she had been, she had done it. And she had not wanted it to end.
Before we climbed into the raft, she grew quiet. “I’m not sure I can do this,” she told the guide. “I’m an indoor person.” The guide replied, “This is the outdoor adventure for indoor people.”
Right from the start, we were drenched by the river as the raft buckled and felt as if it were being sucked into a hole. Anita held on. When we pulled into shore, her face glowed. She promised to return—and not be fearful.
f all my stories, the one with the most apt title was about my foray into sled dog racing: “The Worst 30 Minutes of My Entire Life.” The near-six-mile race was on Rangeley Lake, and just as my five-dog team was about to start, a blizzard flew at us out of nowhere. As the snow swirled, I watched the team ahead of me—whose driver, I had been assured, would look out for my team—disappear into the whiteout. The confidence I had gained from two days of training drained out of me, along with any sense of writerly adventure. Even now, I recall how my heart pounded as the dogs strained forward and the starter counted down, “Four, three, two, one….” I was conscious of two shouts before all noise faded into the wind. One was from the starter: “DON’T LET GO OF THE SLED!” And the other was from my dogs’ frantic owner: “WE MADE A MISTAKE!”
I did everything wrong that first day, including getting
(Continued on p. 135)
I was conscious of two shouts before all noise faded into the wind. One was from the starter: “DON’T LET GO OF THE SLED!” And the other was from my dogs’ frantic owner: “WE MADE A MISTAKE!”
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Forrest Pirovano, artist 781-858-3691
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Roger’s sculpture covers the gamut from fine art to whimsy including functional garden elements, weathervanes, birdbaths, gates, fountains and more. Given the sculptures unique eclectic qualities, they work in sophisticated to comfortable environments.
(Continued from p. 40)
1 cup plus ¼ cup chopped parsley leaves
½ cup mayonnaise
½ cup sour cream
¹⁄ 3 cup thinly sliced scallions
½ cup plus ½ cup baby spinach leaves
¼ cup chopped basil leaves
1 large garlic clove
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
¾ teaspoon kosher salt
2½ cups chopped cooked chicken
3 stalks celery, diced
¼ cup chopped walnuts
4 ciabatta rolls, split lengthwise and lightly toasted
1 large green apple, cut into thin half-moon slices
In a blender, combine 1 cup parsley, mayonnaise, sour cream, scallions, ½ cup spinach, basil, garlic, lemon juice, and salt. Blend until smooth.
In a medium bowl, combine the chopped cooked chicken with the dressing. Add the celery, walnuts, and remaining ¼ cup parsley and stir until combined.
To make the sandwiches, layer the bottom halves of the ciabatta rolls with generous scoops of the chicken salad. Divide the remaining ½ cup baby spinach leaves and green apple slices among the sandwiches. Top with bread and slice in half. Yields 4 sandwiches.
ROAST BEEF SANDWICHES WITH PIMENTO CHEESE SAUCE AND FRIZZLED SHALLOTS
It feels a bit sacrilegious to add a Southern staple like pimento cheese to a New England sandwich. But why argue with perfection? This roast beef sandwich contains three primary elements: meat, fried shallots, and a loose mixture of pimento cheese that drizzles just a little. I added an atypical dollop of honey mustard to the sauce simply because it tasted great.
6 large shallots, peeled and thinly sliced crosswise
1 cup vegetable or olive oil
¼ teaspoon kosher salt
1 cup packed grated cheddar cheese
¼ cup (2 ounces) cream cheese
¼ cup mayonnaise
3 tablespoons milk
1 tablespoon pimentos (optional)
2 teaspoons honey mustard
½ pound good-quality roast beef, thinly sliced
4 onion kaiser rolls, split in half and lightly toasted
First, make the frizzled shallots. Put shallots and oil in a small saucepan, then set the pan over medium-low heat and cook, checking often, until the shallots turn golden brown, 20 to 25 minutes. Immediately remove from heat and drain on paper towels. Sprinkle with kosher salt and set aside.
Using a standing or immersion blender, combine the cheddar, cream
Tasting Boxes, Gifts, Gift of the Month Clubs I Leave the Sending to Us!
Tasting Boxes, Gifts, Gift of the Month Clubs I Leave the Sending to Us!
The people who choose to live at Wake Robin are forever looking forward. Whether it’s making new friends in this Life Plan Community, exploring new activities and hobbies, or learning new skills, the good stuff lies in front of you. If that sounds like you, come see for yourself. Wake Robin. It’s where you live.
WakeRobin.com
802-264-5100
cheese, mayonnaise, milk, pimentos, and mustard. Blend until smooth.
To make the sandwich, divide the roast beef among the bottom halves of the kaiser rolls. Top with the frizzled shallots, then generously spoon the cheese sauce over that. Top with bread. Yields 4 sandwiches.
BACON, LETTUCE, AVOCADO & TOMATO (BLAT) SANDWICHES (Photo, see p. 37)
A sandwich of garden-fresh tomatoes with mayo on white bread is a thing of beauty. Add some bacon and lettuce, and it’s also wonderful. Add some avocado to that, and while I can’t say it’s better, it’s a lovely variation. Just be sure to use the freshest, sweetest tomatoes you can get. And don’t skip salting the tomato slices while you build the sandwich—it makes a difference.
8 slices thick-cut bacon, uncooked
¹⁄ 3 cup mayonnaise
1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
8 slices Pullman-style or white sandwich bread, lightly toasted
4 ¹⁄ 3 -inch-thick slices of beefsteak tomato
Flaky sea salt
8 pieces butter lettuce, trimmed to fit sandwich
1 ripe avocado, pitted, peeled, and sliced
Preheat your oven to 425°F. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper and lay the bacon slices on the paper. When the oven is hot, bake until the bacon is browned and crisp to your preference, 12 to 18 minutes. Remove sheet from oven and let cool.
Meanwhile, in a small bowl, stir together the mayonnaise and Worcestershire sauce. Spread a scant tablespoon of the mayo mixture on each slice of bread. Top each of the bottom slices of bread with a tomato slice, then sprinkle with sea salt. Top the tomato with 2 pieces of lettuce, then 4 or 5 avocado slices, then the bacon. Top with bread, mayo-side down. Cut in half and serve. Yields 4 sandwiches.
BYOB RESTAURANT
Black-Eyed Susan’s, Nantucket
The glass rental fee is steep, so BYOG in addition to toting your favorite bottle of vino to this island restaurant, beloved for more than 30 years. Devotees who spent all of 2022 fearing for the intimate eatery’s life were delighted to reclaim their patio tables and stools overlooking the open kitchen when experienced new owners (Orla and Michael LaScola of The Proprietors) reopened the doors last summer. Chef Todd Edwards is back in the saddle, resurrecting favorites like tuna tartare while interjecting dishes that marry local seafood with flavors from afar. blackeyedsusansnantucket.com
The Baldwin Bar/The Baldwin & Sons Trading Co., Woburn
You can’t swing a bar spoon in Boston these days without hitting a Ran Duan project. Just since 2018, the superstar mixologist has launched Blossom Bar and Ivory Pearl, both in Brookline, and Birds of Paradise in Brighton— each uniquely themed, all quickly acclaimed. But his creative roots lie in the ’burbs, where a 20-something Duan first gave his parents’ Sichuan restaurant a creative spin on the classic tiki lounge (the Baldwin Bar), then took things to the literal next level with a more refined second-floor bar (the Baldwin & Sons Trading Co.). Whether you opt for the freshest of tropical libations downstairs or the clever, cutting-edge creations upstairs, rest assured you’re catching Duan’s original buzz. thebaldwinbar.com
Woodman’s of Essex, Essex
This 110-year-old restaurant makes a very credible claim as the birthplace of the fried clam, so you know where to start your order. But don’t stop there. The clam chowder is terrific, and you can’t go wrong with the Down River Combo (a mix of fried clams, shrimp, scallops, and fish). There’s also an extensive menu of food made to be gluten-free—a process the kitchen takes very seriously. woodmans.com
The Dream Away Lodge, Becket
After a period of closure and uncertainty, a rollicking farmhouse at the edge of a deep woods is once again adding to its musical legend. Made famous when Bob Dylan and pals Arlo Guthrie, Joan Baez, and Allen
Experience a variety of cultures through food and festivals in our sister cities of the South Coast - Fall River and New Bedford. for more information and events visit each on social media
Of course you’ll want to be on the beach, taking a swim and getting some sun. How about seeing a concert, going for a hike, or attending a cultural festival all on the same day? See the world’s largest in-water Naval Museum at Battleship Cove, as well as whaling history at the New Bedford Whaling Museum. You’ll definitely love the largest Portuguese Feast in the world. Art, music and fun abound. If you’re a foodie, you’ll want to be savoring our Cape Verdean or Portuguese flavors you won’t find anywhere else. Do NOT miss all there is to SEE and DO in SEMass .
Ginsberg stumbled upon it in 1975, the Depression-era brothel and speakeasy that Mama Maria Frasca transformed into the Dream Away is everything that faithful fans recall from their twisted-road travels to its front-porch door. The bar is a psychedelic light show; dinner is an eye-popping display of local Berkshires bounty. Polish off dessert in time to nab a cushion or couch seat in the living room, where the evening’s talent might be a local combo, a literary voice, a touring recording artist, or even Arlo’s daughters. thedreamawaylodge.com
19 1/2 Washington Square North Salem, Massachusetts 01970
Clark Art Institute, which is just a short drive from the heralded Williams College Museum of Art. Back at your home away from home, amenities are at your fingertips, including a generous breakfast spread to start your day and a luxurious sauna and pool to help you finish it. porches.com
Hawthorne Hotel, Salem
The Porches Inn at Mass MoCA, North Adams
Take the or the Salem Ferry.
978.744.1692
salemwitchmuseum.com
In a region prized for its arts scene, the Porches Inn drops you smack-dab in the middle of it. Its 47 guest rooms are located in a cluster of artfully converted Victorian row houses across from contemporary art colossus Mass MoCA, which opened 25 years ago. Inn guests can score two free tickets to the museum or to the
At nearly a century old and gracious as ever, the Hawthorne Hotel is the perfect home base during visits to Witch City all year, not just at Halloween, thanks to its location right downtown. Just be sure to keep your eyes and ears alert for things that go bump in the night: The hotel is rumored to be haunted. (Your pet can come along to protect you.)
hawthornehotel.com
Longfellow’s Wayside Inn, Sudbury
There are no TVs in the guest rooms, but who needs them? The History Channel’s prime-time lineup pales next to the immersive
thrills of America’s oldest continuously operating inn, opened in 1716. Depending on when you go, you may see locals in breeches and tricornes practicing their musket skills; meanwhile, a replica of an 18th-century grist mill churns out vintage photo ops as well as flour for the inn’s baked treats. The two oldest of the 10 rooms look much as they would have a few centuries ago—good enough for the inn’s purported ghost, apparently. With its wood-beamed ceiling and expansive fireplace, the 1707 Old Bar is the place to order a “Coow Woow” (purported to be the fledgling nation’s first cocktail) and drink it all in. wayside.org/dine-stay
Wequassett Resort & Golf Club, Harwich
At just a year shy of its 100th birthday, Cape Cod’s premier beach, pool, and golf resort is showing o new tricks under new ownership. is was the rst winter season the property did not shutter, bolstering the Cape’s e orts to sustain a year-round workforce and tourism economy. We have to admit, though: Summer’s still the time to experience this magical spot on Pleasant Bay at the crest of its energy and elegance. Between morning walks and evening s’mores, there’s a daily menu of curated activities with a real sense of place. Grab a pastry to go at e Sill, a new bakery inspired by Henry David oreau’s penchant for swiping pies from neighbors’ windowsills. Go clamming or shing. Sip wine on a sunset sail. Dine indoors or out on beautifully plated seafood at Twenty-Eight Atlantic. You’ll sleep knowing you’ve made the absolute most of your Cape getaway. wequassett.com
Richardson’s Candy Kitchen, Deerfield
Celebrating 70 years, Richardson’s makes the kid inside everyone squeal, regardless of actual age. Purveyors of original-recipe fudge and nostalgia-loaded penny candy like malt balls, spearmint leaves, sour belts, butter rum sticks, and Dad’s root beer barrels, they’re best known for handmade chocolates such as a dozen varieties of nutstudded dixies (many folks would call them turtles) and, in June, chocolate-dipped strawberries. richardsonscandy.com
Tanglewood, Lenox
If classical music were a sport, the Boston Symphony Orchestra would be hanging
“Presidential Summers: The Kennedys on Cape Cod”
Learn why their lives were centered in this one place.
397 Main Street, Hyannis H 508-790-3077 H jfkhyannismuseum.org
Check out our new schedule of walks & talks
championship banners from the rafters of the Koussevitzky Music Shed, the main openair venue at the orchestra’s summer home in the Berkshires. Purchase a lawn pass book, and it brings the cost of seeing 11 concerts down to just $22 apiece. Lawn tickets for most orchestral concerts are free for children under 18, making this the ideal place to show young students who’ve just picked up an instrument at school where practice and dedication can take them. This year, the BSO will honor Tanglewood founder Serge Koussevitzky’s 150th birthday, but it’ll be James Taylor’s 50th anniversary of performances at the venue that will fill every inch of the lawn with picnicking 3rd and 4th of July revelers. Once you’ve experienced a concert under the sun or stars in this glorious green setting, it will become your own annual tradition. tanglewood.org
Old Schwamb Mill, Arlington
Since 1864, the wood turners in this unassuming red clapboard building have crafted exquisite oval and circular picture frames, which today can be found in major museums the world over and in prestigious collections at Buckingham Palace, the White House, the Vatican, and the like. Located on the oldest continuously operating mill site in the country, Old Schwamb has served dual purpose as a living history museum since 1970. It hosts a diverse lineup of exhibitions and is open for free tours (donations accepted) and shopping on Tuesdays and Saturdays. oldschwambmill.org
Harvard Alpaca Ranch, Harvard
Load everybody up for a country-roads drive to this sweet farm. You’ll pet the herd and hear these gentle animals’ cute humming on a free tour with a knowledgeable guide. Advance reservations and donations are appreciated, as are purchases. e soft goods in the Alpaca Shop—everything from socks to yarns to stu ed animals—are touchably irresistible. harvardalpacaranch.com
EAT & DRINK
CHEAP EATS
Rubato HK Café, Quincy
Newly minted James Beard Award semifinalist Laurence Louie offers a taste of modern Hong Kong. The fun, mostly smallbites menu features fluffy bolo baos (sweet buns) stuffed with fried chicken or barbecued pork, stuffed French bread with condensed
At the Farmstead Creamery at High Lawn Farm, the homemade scoops get their delectable creaminess from a resident herd of Jersey cows.
milk and cookie crumbs, congee, and a terrific baked pork chop with tomato sauce and fried rice. rubato-food.com
The Farmstead Creamery at High Lawn Farm, Lee
Part farm store (you can buy fresh milk and cheese), part food boutique (pick up locally made charcuterie, bread, honey, and jams), and part scoop shop (the homemade ice cream is some of the best in New England), the Farmstead Creamery is our dream of a country store. Browse the shelves, then enjoy a cone at a picnic table while taking in the view of pasture, rolling hills, and the farm’s signature hexagonal clock tower. highlawnfarm.com
Lehrhaus, Somerville
This welcoming tavern serves modern takes on Jewish foods from across the diaspora— and offers classes on everything from Jewish
sci-fi and fantasy to Hebrew calligraphy. With chef Michael Leviton in the kitchen, the menu is a delightful mix of mac-andcheese kugel, bourekas (savory pastries), smoked fish spreads, and terrific fish-andchips. lehr.haus
Nightshade Noodle Bar, Lowell
Chef-owner Rachel Miller has kept her restaurant small, focused (it’s tasting menu–only, though you can choose the number of courses), and consistently noteworthy since
From family fun and ocean adventures to ecclectic dining and cultural sites, this oh-soclose region has so much to offer. To learn more about North of Boston cities, towns and villages, visit us online or follow us at @VisitNorthofBoston
PLAN YOUR NEXT GETAWAY AT NORTHOFBOSTON.ORG
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opening just before the pandemic. Miller takes her inspiration from French and Vietnamese cuisine, with an emphasis on seafood and noodle dishes, but that can mean shrimp toast with white sesame, Cajun shrimp bisque, or handmade noodles with caramelized garlic sauce. nightshadenoodlebar.com
The Homeport Restaurant & Oyster Bar, Menemsha
Long beloved for its stunning sunset views, the Homeport has found new life in the hands of seasoned restaurateur Seth Woods. Try the steamed mussels with coconut and ginger, the bass and clam chowder, the stuffed quahogs, or the seared scallops. Or let them prepare a takeaway clambake with all the fixings. thehomeportmv.com
Granville House, Great Barrington
When a great chef is told, “Just make what you’d like,” it can yield delights that the diner never thought of. In the same way, Granville House (opened in 2020 by two former New York restaurant pros, as it happens) feels like an irresistible expression of what owners
MUSEUM HOURS:
Sunday–Friday 10:00 am to 4:00 pm
Plan your visit at yiddishbookcenter.org
Terry and Terri Coughlin like best. Classic vinyl records, from Nina Simone to the Sex Pistols. Eclectic stacks of food, music, and art books. A sassy mix of vintage and modern decor, with nods to Terry’s travels in Italy and highlights from his autograph collection (yes, that’s a Star Wars lunch box signed by Mark Hamill). All set in a renovated 1825 house, this is as personal—and memorable—as a B&B gets. granvillehouseinn.com
COASTAL STAY
Addison Choate, Rockport Watch one video @addisonchoate on TikTok or Instagram, and you’ll already know that overnighting at this coastal B&B will be a playful treat. Marshall and Courtney Tulley have styled common spaces and seven rooms—including the two-floor Dog Watch suite with its pine floors, pops of turquoise and coral, and full kitchen—to wake up your imagination. After a bagged breakfast on the porch, you’ll be all fired up for the short walk to Bearskin Neck with your easel and paints or to Shalin Liu for a concert with an ocean view. addisonchoate.com
Margaritaville Resort Cape Cod, Hyannis
Jimmy Buffett was no stranger to Cape Cod—the late singer name-dropped
Briar Barn Inn reimagines rustic comfort in a quaint New England setting, just 30 miles north of Boston. From our exquisitely appointed guest rooms to our spa and restaurant, Grove, Briar Barn Inn provides all the essential elements for a relaxing stay. Mention YANKEE when booking for a special welcome amenity.
WWW.BRIARBARNINN.COM
978.653.5323 | 101 MAIN STREET, ROWLEY, MA 01969
Boston’s not one of those gridarranged cities; you’ll appreciate its distinctive layout from the elevated perspective of View Boston.
Buzzards Bay in his 1979 song “Volcano”—and this summer his Margaritaville Resorts brand puts its toes in New England sand. The former Cape Codder Resort, which already boasts a popular indoor water park, is getting a $30 million makeover for this summer’s reopening. The 272-room hotel will feature dining outlets such as the LandShark Bar & Grill and 5 o’Clock Somewhere Bar. And plenty of palm trees, plus Cape-inspired artwork and decor. Fins up!
margaritaville-resort-cape-cod
Gillette Stadium Lighthouse Experience, Foxborough
How much would you pay to ascend the tallest lighthouse in America? What if the 22-story elevator ride also came with digital photos of your crew from two angles once you reached the 360-degree observation deck? Plus
views of forested hills (particularly pretty in the fall), two city skylines (Providence and Boston), and the hallowed field where the Patriots play? The newest attraction at Gillette Stadium is definitely worth a fiver. Your kids 10 and under can join you for free. patriot-place.com/lighthouse
View Boston, Boston
You’re not among the clouds, but you’re close when you ascend to the Prudential Tower’s 52nd floor, a completely reimagined use of the once-famed Top of the Hub restaurant and the two levels below it. The resulting $182 million overhaul is View Boston, an observatory, open-air terrace, and immersive virtual tour that whisks visitors through the city’s nearly two dozen neighborhoods. The on-site bar and restaurant, Stratus, will keep you looking and lingering, while metal sculptures made in partnership with the Perkins School for the Blind are designed to be touched, allowing those with visual impairments to experience the same landmarks the observatory overlooks. viewboston.com
American Heritage Museum, Hudson
The ground shudders; artillery blasts. You’re in a World War I trench, and this next-
Fly, drive or take the train to Central MA this summer for a getaway you’re sure to enjoy.
Don’t miss our Lavender Farm Fest in June, explore Worcester breweries, and catch a baseball game. Stay overnight so you can visit shops, horseback ride wooded trails and hike. For upcoming events, visitor tips, & so much more, consider us your local guide to the heart of Massachusetts.
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level-immersive museum is about to spark gratitude in your heart for those who have fought for Americans’ freedoms, from the Revolution through today. Opened in 2019, the 66,000-square-foot facility was designed to house Jacques M. Littlefield’s collection of massive armored vehicles, yet stories told by Vietnam POWs make an even bigger impression. For a premium, you can ride in a World War II–era tank or even learn to take the controls. americanheritagemuseum.org
WNDR Boston , Boston
You know the rules when it comes to museums: Don’t touch the work. Unless you’re touring WNDR, a fully interactive space opened this year that beautifully marries art and technology. WNDR’s sister locales include Chicago and San Diego, but its Downtown Crossing home is its largest, and its immersive exhibits—from an infinity mirror room to a rolling simulated thunderstorm (you can leave your rain jacket at home)—offer up sensory experiences you won’t find at more traditional institutions. Watch for monthly WNDR After Dark events that add drinks and tunes to the mix. wndrmuseum.com
Samuel Slater Experience, Webster
If you haven’t heard of the man for whom this new historic attraction is named, you’re in for quite the introduction to the traitor-hero. Opened in 2022, this museum has artifacts, sure. But as you journey across the Atlantic with Slater, who smuggled secrets that launched America’s Industrial Revolution, it’s the multisensory effects that will wow you. Get ready to talk to holograms, hear the sounds of a re-created textile mill, design your own fabrics (maybe even register for a weaving course), and board a trolley for a virtual ride down Main Street in 1910, when Webster was a boomtown thanks to the Slater-built mills’ wild success. samuelslaterexperience.org
Salisbury Beach Carousel, Salisbury
There was a time when no self-respecting New England beach town was complete without a merry-go-round, and a carousel is once again an essential part of Salisbury’s summer allure. Housed in a classically designed post-and-beam pavilion that was opened in 2023, the 1909 Looff-Mangels carousel—the town’s first since its original
Gibby’s Famous Ice Cream features 70+ Flavors of delicious ice cream, frozen yogurt and all the traditional treats. Homemade brownies for our sundaes, hand cut fresh strawberries and real Maine blueberries for our toppings, real pineapple on our famous banana splits. Over 20 soft serve flavors. Try a Wizard, root beer float or old fashioned ice cream soda! Gibson Farms has been delivering fresh milk & ice cream since 1923 in the Worcester area. Come visit us .... open noon to 9 pm, 7 days.
GibsonsDairy.com
508-753-1095
50 Sunderland Rd. • Worcester, MA
Butterfly Conservatory & Gardens
Been in business since 2000
Visit Magic Wings and marvel at the beauty of nearly 4,000 butterflies, as they fly around you in our tropical indoor conservatory. Also home to lizards, tortoises, frogs, and Koi fish
Open 6 days a week year round. Closed on Mondays.
413-665-2805
281 Greenfield Road, South Deerfield, MA
www.magicwings.com
was sold off in the 1970s—enchants a new generation of sand-encrusted kids with 44 hand-carved horses; whimsical interlopers like goats, giraffes, and a zebra; and a pair of ornate chariots that accommodate riders with mobility limits. Rides are $4. Kiddos shorter than 42 inches ride free with an adult. salisburybeachcarousel.org
Moraine Farm, Beverly
In 1880, the famed landscape architect Frederick Law Olmsted transformed 275 acres of worn-out farmland and a ridge of rocky glacial debris into a beautiful landscape of natural woodlands, ponds, meadows, and wetlands enhanced with carriage roads, hiking paths, lawns, and stone walls and terraces. Thanks to a recent acquisition by The Trustees, the core 76 acres of the former gentleman’s farm will open to the public in time for summer. Highlights also include connecting trails to the neighboring J.C. Phillips Nature Preserve, community gardens, and views of the Tea House and other elegant buildings composing the Estate at Moraine Farm, a popular wedding venue. thetrustees.org/place/moraine-farm
Hello 2023!
We've been pleased to host high school college and professional group tours and welcome you to book early Based on availability, we can work to accommodate your needs
Click for dates or email info@publichealthmuseum org
BOOK A TOUR
from Al DeMaria, Jr , MD, president
The Public Health Museum wishes all its friends and supporters the very best in the New Year The museum is moving forward into this new year with enrichments to exhibits in the nursing room and planning for in-person and virtual educational programs, Planning for the 11th year of our program for high school students, Outbreak! has already begun
We expect to complete a formal evaluation of how to improve our storage capacity for the collection and archives through a Feasibility and Technical Assistance Grant from the Massachusetts Cultural Council
We hope to open the museum even more as pandemic coronavirus seems to become endemic coronavirus Our wonderful cadre of volunteers have been guiding numerous visitors and school groups through the museum, generating more demand through word-ofmout h communication about the excellence of the experience
Medford Tech's students visited the museum in December
The museum is seeking indoor and outdoor volunteer guides Training is available The museum is open Thursdays and Saturdays at this time info@publichealthmuseum org
Follow us on Facebook and Twitter for the latest information and programming
We have also been considering how best to commemorate the COVID-19 Pandemic experience We d like to collect clean masks and create a display If you have a clean mask with a particular logo or message you have acquired and would like it to be part of an exhibit commemorating the pandemic, then please send it to the museum with a note of its significance
The Public Health Museum depends on your generous support, If you are not already a member, please become one Donations of any amount are very much appreciated And, please visit the museum Our website is full of
We'd l and create a displa with a particular lo acquired and woul exhibit commemo please send it to th significance The Public Health generous support, member, please be amount are very m visit the museum information publichealthmuse
A real 18th-century house, Pickity Place is reminiscent of the grandmother’s house in “Little Red Riding Hood”: somehow enchanted, sprinkled with magic dust, and with an ancient ash tree out front that adds just the right touch of fairy-tale foreboding.
Illustrator Elizabeth Orton Jones, a longtime Mason resident, used the house as a model for her artwork in the 1948 Golden Book retelling of the story. Today it is a hot spot for gardeners, foodies, and anyone looking for inspiration and relaxation. There’s a gift shop, a gourmet restaurant, Old English gardens with brick paths perfect for exploring, and an herb shop in a rustic barn. Not to worry, though, the Big Bad Wolf is occupied elsewhere. pickityplace.com
Petey’s Summertime Seafood & Bar, Rye
Founded in 1990 by Petey Aikens Jr., this seaside staple has operated at its current Ocean Boulevard location for nearly a quarter century, serving steamed, broiled, and fried seafood in a casual setting. Nothing fancy here—you’ll be eating that cup of clam chowder in a paper bowl with a plastic spoon. (We recommend sitting at the bar.) Don’t be fooled by the “Summertime” in the name, as Petey’s is open year-round. It also ships fresh lobsters, steamers, mussels, and lobster meat “anywhere you want.” peteys.com
Omni Mount Washington Resort, Bretton Woods
While this historic hotel touts all the luxury you would expect from a world-class resort, its most prized attribute is its location. The simple pleasure of sitting on the hotel’s back porch and gazing at the Presidential Range—after a brisk hike at Arethusa Falls, say—trumps all the other amenities. In the summer, those include gondola rides, golf, horseback riding, mountain biking, and ziplining. omnihotels. com/hotels/bretton-woods-mount-washington
The NASWA Resort, Laconia
The Makris family has been hosting visitors on the shores of Lake Winnipesaukee since 1935. Steeped in bright, rustic charm, their resort invites you to unplug from your busy life for a relaxing summer stay. Rooms, suites, and
cottages offer private balconies, lake views, and wake-up service. Some are even pet-friendly. Amenities with local flair include a dock space for you to BYO boat, a private beach, kayaks and paddleboards, a bistro, and the “world-famous” NazBar & Grill, so a refreshing cold beer or tasty boat drink is never out of reach. Experience a piece of history and know that no matter if it’s your first visit or your 10th, you’ll always be treated like family. naswa.com
Piscataquog Trail and Goffstown Rail Trail, Manchester and Goffstown
Take this 15-mile round-trip ride from Delta Dental Stadium in Manchester for an urban bike trek that crosses the Merrimack River on the east side and heads west toward Goffstown. You’ll pedal through tree-lined neighborhoods along the Piscataquog River and spy boaters gathering along the shores of Glen Lake. The trail ends at Goffstown, where restaurants like the Village
“The Classics” listings for New Hampshire are by the editors of New Hampshire Magazine , a Yankee Publishing Inc. company.
Trestle will welcome you to refill your water bottle and stay for lunch (and a cold beverage) before your return trip. nhrtc.org
Polar Caves, Rumney
Formed during the last Ice Age, the Polar Caves take you on a thrilling adventure into the distant past. There are nine granite caves to explore, each formed by boulders that were deposited by glaciers hundreds of thousands of years ago. The negative space left between boulders formed exciting passageways that are ready for you and your family to explore. Follow designated walkways through the illuminated caves, and don’t miss the animal park (even though there are no polar bears). polarcaves.com
(Continued on p. 116)
Around here, no two vacations ever feel quite the same. Whether it’s a relaxing week on the lake, a spontaneous night out on the town, or a memory-making family vacation to the mountains, New Hampshire offers so much to do, see, and experience that you can getaway anyway you choose.
Enjoy the beach during your summer vacation at NH’s only resort on the sand. Celebrating more than eighty years as a favorite family destination.
SeasideVillageResort.com
603-964-8204
the Whites,
Washington,
603-846-5501
up
Welcome back to Forest Society North at The Rocks in Bethlehem!
New Visitor Center • Exhibits Educational Events • Wildlife Vacation Rentals • Weddings Walking Trails • History Tour
forestsociety.org/therocks
“Oldest Summer Resort in America”, your year-round destination.
• Unique Shops and Restaurants
• Vacation Rentals, Hotels and Motels
• Lakeside Concerts in the Park
• Boat Rides and Rentals
• Trolly Tours • Beaches
• Mountain and Trail Adventures
• Golf, Fishing, Hiking and Biking
(Continued from p. 105)
Grafton County
Named for an early-19th-century Seminole leader, this 4,340-foot peak near Waterville Valley offers a 6.2-mile round-trip trek with moderate difficulty for hikers of all ages and abilities. The popular trail is easy to access from I-93 at Tripoli Road in the south or from the Greeley Pond Trail northeast of the mountain. We recommend a post-hike celebratory beverage and bite at Gypsy Café in Lincoln. visitwatervillevalley.com/hikes/mount-osceola
Hampton Beach Casino Ballroom,
When Elvis Costello played the Casino Ballroom last summer, he made note of the iconic artists who have performed there over the past century, some of whose images adorn the walls, including Duke Ellington, Led Zeppelin, and U2. The venue along the Hampton Beach boardwalk books marquee musical acts like Joe Bonamassa and Bonnie Raitt and top-shelf comedians like Pete Davidson (all appearing this summer). casinoballroom.com
Hobo & Winnipesaukee Scenic Railroads, Lincoln, Meredith, and Weirs Beach
During the 1880s, wealthy sightseers from Worcester, Lowell, and beyond took the Boston, Concord & Montreal Railroad to reach the White Mountains and their grand hotels in elegant fashion. The tradition continues with scenic rides along Lake Winnipesaukee and the Pemigewasset River. The Hobo & Winnipesaukee Scenic Railroads system offers excursions from stations in Meredith, Weirs Beach, and Lincoln. Experience a taste of old New Hampshire aboard restored vintage cars and revel in the splendor of the changing seasons. Or, skip the trains and ride the rails yourself on a rail bike adventure tour. hoborr.com
Maddy’s Food Hub, Concord
Flag Leaf Bakery, Antrim
If the line snaking down the sidewalk isn’t hint enough, the relieved looks on those leaving with their aromatic bags is full testament to the power of masterful baking. Cheesy pull-aparts break into fragrant, buttery cloves; swirls of cruffins are dusted in sugar and plumped with Earl Grey pastry cream. Hearty whole-grain hearth loaves, including sourdough with cracked pepper and Parmesan, jostle alongside croissants, bialys, and jalapeño popper Danishes. Prepare to gain a pound on entry. Open Friday/Saturday. flagleafbakery.com
Muse Bistro, Keene
Sometimes you just need to sink onto a midcentury-modernish sofa strategically located on the sidewalk outside a stylish boîte serving tasty tapas. When that happens, you’ll be sorely tempted to order an icy sangria and pair it with crunchy fried goat-cheese croquetas, or a dish of citrus-garlic marinated olives, while watching the life of a college town stroll by. There are fullblown meals, too, served outside or in, like the Benten’s Bowl (a medley of seared ahi, radish, and cold soba noodles) and the barbacoa slowroasted beef taco with lime crema. musekeene.com
Super Secret Ice Cream, Bethlehem
It’s no secret we New Englanders love our ice cream, but we also love the unpredictable. This farm-to-cone discovery blends local cream with ingredients that read like poetry for the taste buds: cranberry gingersnap, coffee cardamom, Meyer lemonade pistachio, “swirly strawberry jam jam.” The “tiny batch made from scratch” ethos guarantees satisfaction. The ice cream flight of six cuts down on decision-making. A 2024 James Beard Awards semifinalist nod is the cherry on top. supersecreticecream.com
Rambling House Food & Gathering, Nashua
We will send you our brochure... EDC@Wolfeboronh.us www.WolfeboroChamber.com
• So Much Ice Cream Too! Brought to you by wolfeboronh.us
Wolfeboro Economic Development Committee
“Work and Live Where You Love to Play”
Warm aromas of jerk chicken intermingle with those of jollof rice (a flavor bomb of rice, tomatoes, chilies, and spices) in this authentic African restaurant, where Patty Sabol conjures East and West African cuisines. Savory combos of fried plantains and tender curried goat drift by. Whitefish draped with onions and peppers vies with African barbecue spareribs. The spices in the beans with snapper crackle with flavor. But that orange patty of jollof rice is like transport to other worlds. maddyfoodhub.com
From the outside, this family-owned enterprise looks like a tiny Irish pub. Inside, time and space expand, with views of the Nashua River and its mill buildings. Nesting-doll style, there’s more to unpack. Four levels feature a craft brewery, a tasting loft, a cocktail bar, dining rooms, outdoor decks, and hearty dining options, like a starter of local mussels cooked in hard cider…a rugged shepherd’s pie oozing lamb and veggies from the family’s own Claddagh Hill Farm…a vegan stuffed acorn squash that’s a picnic in a gourd. All with brews that live up to the promise of that tiny pub storefront. ramblingtale.com
CrowBar Hardware Store, Claremont
Remember the good old days of speakeasies? Of course you don’t, but the allure of past
forbidden things reaches out irresistibly from behind boarded-up windows. “We will not confirm or deny that this location serves craft cocktails with an amazing menu,” states the CrowBar’s Facebook page. This “not” hardware store is an open secret—a switch and a bell gain you entrance to the glamorous retreat plucked from the Prohibition era. The vibe is Roaring Twenties; the crafted cocktails are anything but dated. Duck in for a citrusy French Blonde; stay for some local charcuterie. Facebook
The Artisan Hotel at Tuscan Village, Salem Walking paths, firepits, a luxury outdoor pool, and a rooftop bar are all on offer at this sleek, 165-room boutique hotel, where guests can also duck into the on-site Tuscan Kitchen restaurant or the Caffé Artisan espresso bar. The surrounding Tuscan Village offers pedestriancentric shopping, a lively beer garden, and La Scuola Culinaria, a cooking school where Mary Ann Esposito filmed the 30th season of Ciao Italia . Dabble in pasta-making, craft a cocktail, take your kids to pizza class. Seabiscuit ran here in 1935, when the 170-acre property was
Rockingham Park, the legendary racecourse. A winner. theartisanhotelattuscanvillage.com
The Davenport Inn, Portsmouth
If the Davenport offered time-traveling tours of Portsmouth—the state’s first capital—it would whisk us back to its 1758 origins and the heyday of seafaring antics. Built by wealthy merchants, the handsome building at various times housed a silversmith and a boarding house, and it was the governor’s headquarters during the War of 1812. It wears its antiquity well, with a newly renovated layer of modern luxury. It is also happily berthed at the heart of this captivating city, not far from the Piscataqua River and all that history. thedavenportinn.com
Alpine Garden Village and Winery, Bartlett White Mountains, check. Hobbit houses, cabins, and treehouses, check. Handcrafted? Of course. Romantic? Off the charts. An on-site winery and a heated pool? Yes, please. This is glamping but at its tip-top best, redolent with charm. Owls hoot. Hiking and biking trails abound. The Conway Scenic Railroad chugs by. You’re in a cradle of scenery, where beauty comes to be born. alpinegardenglamping.com
Living Shores Aquarium, Glen
Who wouldn’t want to touch a stingray, explore tidepools, and marvel at otters? Next door to Story Land—that perennial favorite—this indoor year-round aquarium brings nature and its sea wonders to interactive life, with an emphasis on family fun and education. Opened in 2019, it is the state’s first aquarium, constantly morphing as new exhibits are added. livingshores.com
The Maple Station Market, Temple
If there is such a thing as a maple whisperer, it’s Ben Fisk. A fifth-generation sugarmaker, Fisk was 5 when he became obsessed with making syrup, winning Best in State when he was 15. His newly opened Maple Station—a 16,000-squarefoot wooden-beamed emporium—offers shelves laden with Fisk’s own syrup, and treats made with his syrup including cotton candy, popcorn, and barbecue sauce. Other maple offerings run the gamut from Sudsy Cow Maple Cream soap to Vintage Maine Maple potato chips and Sap! maple seltzer. Don’t miss the fresh maple doughnuts— perfect halos dusted in sugar, still warm, the stuff of maple dreams. bensmaplesyrup.com
EAT & DRINK
Chase’s Daily, Belfast
A family farm since the early 1970s, Chase’s Daily added a restaurant in 2000. Recently, it transitioned from full-service to a seasonal counter-service spot. But much of the market/ eatery’s charm is that it continually evolves, adding soft-serve ice cream, brewing a new hot sauce, streamlining the menu, pooling tips for fairer pay. The Chase family reminds us that with change comes opportunity (and Friday pizza nights). chasesdaily.me
Primo, Rockland
To spend a day around chef-owner Melissa Kelly and her team is to realize that old-school farm-to-table cooking means endless hard work (when we last saw Kelly in September, she was going on six months without a day off). This was
Maine’s first modern-era restaurant with a real animals-and-vegetables farm on-site. And in the 24 years since Primo opened, the pasta craft has only gotten better, the pork saltimbocca more succulent, the farm-grown tomatoes sweeter and more varied. primorestaurant.com
Miyake, Portland
Freshly renovated in 2022, and with new owners, Miyake remains a destination with such uniformly high standards that we strongly advise putting yourself in chef Bounahra Kim’s hands and ordering the omakase (tasting menu), a comparative deal for fish this fresh. Prefer à la carte? Try the scallops with yuzu-miso sauce or the spicy Maine crab roll. miyakerestaurants.com
BED & BREAKFAST
Pentagöet Inn, Castine
Matt Powell, a chef, and George Trinovitch, an interior designer, became this turreted Queen
Anne Victorian’s new owners in 2022. They’ve combined their talents and passion for history to restore the inn’s yesteryear grandeur (think handsome antiques and delightful historical ephemera with an emphasis on comfort) without sacrificing contemporary must-haves. The dining is excellent, the pub is fun, and the organic gardens are dreamy. pentagoet.com
OneSixtyFive The Inn on Park Row, Brunswick
When a fire charred the main structure, innkeeper Eileen Horner created the inn of her dreams within an 1848 Federal overlooking Brunswick’s town green. She updated the decor, opting for brighter neutral paints and wallpapers, restored hardwood floors previously hidden by carpeting, and added eclectic furnishings. Guests can mingle over breakfast in the front parlors or cocktails and snacks in Pub165. Independent-minded guests can stay at the self-check-in Carriage House. Those with a dog can book the cottage. onesixtyfivemaine.com
The Waterford Inne, Waterford
Eager to get away from it all? Choose this attractively renovated 19th-century farmhouse—complete with hand-hewn beams and wide-plank pine floors—on 25 rural acres with fields, gardens, forests, and a pond. Feast on hearty farm-fresh breakfasts, laze in Adirondack chairs, toast marshmallows over the firepit, and enjoy light fare and drinks in the humongous red barn, which also hosts a seasonal dinner series. waterfordinne.insideout.com
South Solon Meeting House, South Solon
This classic white-clapboard building sits on a quiet rural corner amid farmlands and forests. The exterior appears as it did when it opened in 1843, but step inside, and wow! Nearly every surface is frescoed with colorful, nondenominational religious scenes painted by 13 artists from the Skowhegan School of Painting & Sculpture in the 1950s. web.colby.edu/southsolonmeetinghouse
Maine Maritime Museum, Bath
Delve into Maine’s seafaring heritage at the Percy & Small Shipyard, part of this museum’s 20-acre campus on the Kennebec River. View indoor history exhibits, then visit the boat and blacksmith shops and the Victorian Donnell House, gawk at the full-size structural representation of the largest wooden sailing vessel built in North America, and hop aboard a daily cruise. mainemaritimemuseum.org
Maine State Music Theatre, Brunswick
Summer theater is an enduring tradition in Maine, and if you haven’t seen a professional musical at Bowdoin College’s Pickard Theater, you’ve been missing out since 1959. June through August, Maine State Music Theatre presents four elaborately costumed Broadway musicals, three concerts featuring the songs of popular artists, and three family productions. During the season, behind-the-scenes tours are offered at both Pickard Theater and the nearby rehearsal building. msmt.org
Twelve, Portland
As the Forest City fully established itself as the Foodie City, it began attracting more chefs from away who’ve opened the kinds of artful, personal restaurants they couldn’t have done
BELFAST is where charm, creativity, and community come together.
BELFAST is where charm, creativity, and community come together.
BELFAST is where charm, creativity, and community come together.
BELFAST is where charm, creativity, and community come together.
BELFAST is where charm, creativity, and community come together.
Visit our historic and walkable downtown, enjoy the sights along the harborwalk and footbridge, or follow the Rail Trail up river.
Visit our historic and walkable downtown, enjoy the sights along the harborwalk and footbridge, or follow the Rail Trail up river.
Visit our historic and walkable downtown, enjoy the sights along the harborwalk and footbridge, or follow the Rail Trail up river.
Visit our historic and walkable downtown, enjoy the sights along the harborwalk and footbridge, or follow the Rail Trail up river.
Visit our historic and walkable downtown, enjoy the sights along the harborwalk and footbridge, or follow the Rail Trail up river.
Summer abounds with wonderful events for the family, eclectic shops, amazing food and drinks, places to get outdoors and on the water.
Summer abounds with wonderful events for the family, eclectic shops, amazing food and drinks, places to get outdoors and on the water.
Summer abounds with wonderful events for the family, eclectic shops, amazing food and drinks, places to get outdoors and on the water.
Summer abounds with wonderful events for the family, eclectic shops, amazing food and drinks, places to get outdoors and on the water.
Summer abounds with wonderful events for the family, eclectic shops, amazing food and drinks, places to get outdoors and on the water.
Make Belfast, Maine your new favorite summer destination!
Make Belfast, Maine your new favorite summer destination!
Make Belfast, Maine your new favorite summer destination!
Make Belfast, Maine your new favorite summer destination!
Make Belfast, Maine your new favorite summer destination!
Don’t miss out on all the amazing places and activities our surrounding towns and harbors have to offer, too!
Don’t miss out on all the amazing places and activities our surrounding towns and harbors have to offer, too!
Don’t miss out on all the amazing places and activities our surrounding towns and harbors to offer, too!
Don’t miss out on all the amazing places and activities our surrounding towns and harbors have to offer, too!
Don’t miss out on all the amazing places and activities our surrounding towns and harbors have to offer, too!
Plan your getaway today! Visit our website at www.belfastmaine.org
Plan your getaway today! Visit our website at www.belfastmaine.org
Plan your getaway today! Visit our website at www.belfastmaine.org
Plan your getaway today! Visit our website at www.belfastmaine.org
Plan today! our website at www.belfastmaine.org !
Belfast Area Chamber & Information Center
33 Main St.
Belfast Area Chamber & Information Center
Belfast Area & Information Center
Belfast Area Chamber & Information Center
Belfast Area Chamber & Information Center
33 St.
33 Main St.
33 Main St.
Belfast, ME 04915
33 Main St.
Belfast, ME 04915
Belfast, ME 04915
Belfast,
207.338.5900
207.338.5900
Belfast, ME 04915
207.338.5900
207.338.5900
207.338.5900
MAINE
in, say, New York. Such is the case with Colin Wyatt, who cooked in top Manhattan kitchens before decamping to Maine. Halibut with a Ritz-cracker crust and bone marrow jus is the sort of high-low fusion that we love. And pastry chef Georgia Macon is a rising star on a national level. Don’t miss any of her breads, including her gingerbread. twelvemaine.com
Café Louis, South Portland
Portland’s little sister to the south has lately become the belle of the ball, and this Costa Rican/Caribbean-inspired eatery is well worth the trek across the Casco Bay Bridge. Just about everything is made in-house, save for a few condiments. And much is sourced locally. When you bathe Bangs Island mussels in coconut milk with lime and green curry, you have a whole new way of appreciating what’s on hand. Don’t miss the house-ground brisket burger with house-cured bacon queso chihuahua or the slushy rum drinks. cafelouis.me
The Alna Store, Alna
What was once a general store with a gas pump out front is Maine’s most-talked-about new eatery. Here, customers can still buy beer or tag a deer, but they can also sit down to a
Maine-style Italian sandwich or a plate of local scallops, kale, and celeriac with citrus and chili oil. Chef Devin Dearden changes the menu every two weeks, inspired by everything from local produce to Korean noodles to Provençal stews. In short, the Alna Store brings the world to a small town. thealnastore.com
Rosella KPT, Kennebunk
Rosella is a sustainable sushi restaurant from New York’s East Village, but this is not some overlooked satellite location. Chef Matt Kramer came to Maine with real intention to eschew overfished species in favor of what’s bountiful here: oysters, bluefin tuna, bluefish, amberjack, lobster, scallops, and crab. There’s still spicy tuna and avocado, but nothing that’s flown in. And with such artful preparation (the Kennebunkport Cali roll balances sweet Jonah crab with crunchy radish, creamy avocado, and jalapeño), you won’t miss the neon-orange salmon of old. rosellakpt.com
The Federal, Brunswick
Captain Daniel Stone and his daughter, Narcissa, must be smiling down on their former home, an 1810 Federal within easy walking
distance of Main Street. Renovated and furnished in vintage-meets-contemporary style, the dog-friendly hotel reopened in 2022 with 30 rooms and suites split between the Stones’ original home and the newer East Wing. At 555 North, where acclaimed chef Steve Corry prepares farm-to-table fare. thefederalmaine.com
Lockwood Hotel, Waterville
Downtown Waterville is undergoing an artsy revival, and the pet-friendly Lockwood Hotel, opened in 2022, puts visitors at the heart of it. Built by Colby College, the 53-room property displays original works by Maine artists throughout. The inviting lobby, bookended by fireplaces, has a buzzy bar and furniture arranged for cozy conversations. Local farmers and fishermen power a Maine-y menu at the hotel restaurant, Front & Main. lockwood-hotel.com
The Norumbega, Camden
New owners unveiled a calmer, brighter vision for Camden’s 1887 castle by the sea in 2023, opting for comfort and simplicity while emphasizing the Victorian’s architectural charms such as gleaming wood floors and mahogany woodwork. Numerous public spaces make it easy to find a private niche in the
intimate bar, on a balcony or porch, or in the huge backyard. Afternoon treats and a breakfast fit for royalty are included. norumbegainn.com
Cobscook Shores, Lubec
Explore 20 beautifully designed and maintained waterfront preserves in and around Lubec. Created by a family-funded charitable foundation, these tracts offer free walking, hiking, picnicking, camping, paddling, birdwatching, and nature study amid miles of undeveloped shorefront including beaches, islands, and coves. All have restrooms, and most have screened picnic pavilions. cobscookshores.org
Portland by the Foot, Portland
Historian Dugan Murphy makes poking around Portland quirky-good fun. A natural performer, he brings the past to life on two-hour “hidden histories” and Black history tours weaving through the Old Port, Waterfront, and East End neighborhoods. You’ll cover about 1½ miles and learn about Maine’s indigenous Wabanaki, European colonizers, women of note, and the city’s unsung heroes. portlandbythefoot.com
Leunig’s Bistro, Burlington
An Édith Piaf song in the Church Street Marketplace? It’s wafting out from Burlington’s little bit of Paris. Onion soup, foie gras, salade Niçoise, beef bourguignon, and steak frites—all the French comfort classics are here, along with American cuisine with a continental flair and an emphasis on Vermont cheeses. Tables spill out onto the brick walk, bringing bistro charm en plein air. leunigsbistro.com
Simon Pearce, Quechee
Yes, fine glassmaking comes to mind first, but the riverside mill transformed by master craftsman Simon Pearce also houses a celebrated dining establishment. Watch the Ottauquechee River rush by while enjoying shepherd’s pie, sesame chicken, or seared salmon and perhaps a selection of Vermont artisan cheeses. After lunch or before dinner, linger at the cozy bar, or head downstairs to watch glassblowers at work. simonpearce.com
Three Penny Taproom, Montpelier
The tiniest American capital’s favorite bar/ restaurant pours some two dozen drafts— including Hill Farmstead’s celebrated brews— and nearly as many bottles and cans. The menu is built around shareable bar snacks (pair the roasted corn fritters with a sturdy brown ale), burgers, wings, and honest, filling entrees. threepennytaproom.com
Rabbit Hill Inn, Lower Waterford
Located just a stroll from the Connecticut River, which once carried travelers to the inn’s antecedents, Rabbit Hill exemplifies B&B luxury. Tucked behind the grand columns are rooms and suites with amenities such as gas fireplaces and private balconies; a favorite is the Adirondack-style Cedar Glen, with its massive, hewn-log four-poster bed. Dine at the candlelit 24 Carrot, or enjoy drinks and pub fare at Snooty Fox. rabbithillinn.com
Woodstock Inn & Resort, Woodstock
“Casual elegance” is the watchword at this inn facing the town green in one of
Vermont’s handsomest villages. Heir to a 230-year innkeeping tradition and rebuilt by Laurance Rockefeller in the 1960s, it boasts contemporary amenities such as an expansive spa, an 18-hole golf course, tennis courts, and tavern and fine-dining options. Book one of the two Rockefeller suites, and you’ve punched your ticket to the high life. woodstockinn.com
Basin Harbor, Vergennes
The fullest full-service Vermont resort commands a spectacular Lake Champlain location. Guests at 74 individual cottages and lodge accommodations choose from a wide array of sporting options including 18-hole golf, tennis, croquet, and pickleball. You’ll want to leave land: Paddleboard, perhaps, or kick back on a narrated cruise. Dine on full American, MAP, European, or B&B plans at a selection of restaurants. There’s even a private airstrip. basinharbor.com
Blueberry Hill Inn, Goshen
Vermont’s favorite cross-country ski lodge, deep in the Moosalamoo National Recreation Area in the Green Mountain National Forest, is an all-season destination inn. Among the guest quarters are a pair of family-friendly double-level loft rooms and
a former blacksmith shop with a full kitchen. Rates include a generous breakfast, and fixedprice BYOB dinners are served. Just don’t fill up first on homemade cookies, provided all day. blueberryhillinn.com
Windham Antique Center, Bellows Falls
A warren of rooms sprawling across two floors and 7,000 square feet, this is a place where it’s easy to get lost in centuries past. It’s packed with vintage furniture ranging from colonial through Victorian, porcelain and silver tableware, heirloom jewelry, lamps, and restoration hardware. An unexpected sideline is a natural history collection that includes geodes bursting with color. windhamantiquecentervermont.com
Billings Farm & Museum, Woodstock
Frederick Billings’s 19th-century model farm lives on as a working dairy with a herd of prize Jersey cattle, along with draft horses, sheep, goats, and other farm critters. The museum features reconstructed interiors of a general store and rural farmhouse. Hands-on activities abound, and late-summer visitors get an added mood boost while wandering
The “Vermont Inn-to-Inn Walking Tour” is a four-day, selfguided walk averaging 10 miles a day, mainly through old country roads of gravel and through the villages of Chester, Weston, Proctorsville and Ludlow. The four historic inns–Colonial House Inn & Motel, Inn Victoria, Golden Stage Inn, and The Governor’s Inn are linked by their owners’ shared love of Vermont and a commitment to their under the radar walking tour. The oldest and longest running tour of its kind in the state, Vermont Inn-to-Inn Walking Tour is well established and focused on guest safety and comfort
It’s simple and efficient. The innkeepers transport your bags door to door, Vermont sherpa-style; greet you at the end of
PART 1: (13 miles)
INN VICTORIA TO GOLDEN STAGE INN
INN VICTORIA
321 Main St., Chester, VT 802-875-4288
InnVictoria.com
your day with refreshments and a home-cooked meal; and, in the morning, send you on your way with a hearty breakfast, snacks for the road, a map of your walking route, and best wishes for a pleasant day. Its a large circle divided by four Inns; you end up back at the same inn you started at four days earlier. A final feature that sets this tour apart from so many others? You’re on your own, so you can set your own pace. Walk alone or with friends; do as much or as little of the walk as you like. Basically, the tour is as idiosyncratic as the state in which you’re walking. Join us from early-May through the end of October.
833-Inn-2-Inn (833-466-2466)
www.VermontInntoInnWalking.com
PART 2: (10.7 miles)
GOLDEN STAGE INN TO THE GOVERNOR’S INN
GOLDEN STAGE INN
399 Depot St., Proctorsville, VT 802-226-7744
GoldenStageInn.com
PART 3: (6 7 miles)
THE GOVERNOR’S INN TO THE COLONIAL HOUSE INN
THE GOVERNOR’S INN
86 Main St., Ludlow, VT 802-228-8830
TheGovernorsInn.com
PART 4: (11.8 miles)
THE COLONIAL HOUSE INN & MOTEL TO INN VICTORIA
THE COLONIAL HOUSE INN 287 Route 100, Weston, VT 802-824-6286
CoHoInn.com
“It’s a meditative walk. Long before the village of Chester appears and I’ve come full circle, I realize that my life has become breathtakingly simple in the last few days. I walk; I look at wildflowers; I avoid poison ivy; I take a deep breath and listen to nature singing; I wonder what’s up ahead; I try to remember to look back from time to time. Occasionally I hum–and then try to get the song out of my head.
“And then I take another step. Am I closer or farther away? It’s my path, my walk. I get to decide.”
–Annie Graves, Yankee Magazine, May/June 2012 | To read more, visit: NewEngland.com/Inn
Nestled in Vermont’s pristine landscape, Rabbit Hill Inn beckons with luxurious charm. Unwind in premier accommodations, savor outstanding cuisine at 24 Carrot, and embrace outdoor adventure. Your retreat awaits amidst mountains, streams, and tranquility. Lavish Vermont-made breakfast included with every stay!
Featuring 400+ Vermont artists and local products in the largest artisan gift gallery in Vermont. Discover fine art originals, handcrafted jewelry, pottery, maple syrup, chocolate, and more. Family-friendly and just a short scenic drive between Burlington and Stowe.
This modern small resort in a historic village o ers luxury accommodations and a stylish restaurant serving inventive farm-to-table cuisine. An elegant Inn with small cottages, it’s set in a lovely mountain valley, with a saltwater pool, racquet courts, and hiking, fishing, and biking nearby.
Photo: Courtesy of Vermont Tourism
Your home away from home for northern New England’s many attractions. Tucked in the center of historic St. Johnsbury, Vermont, this Victorian Colonial Revival home is a short walk to churches, museums, and downtown shopping. Enjoy our comfortable rooms and amazing breakfasts!
Visit Stratton Mountain, where everything you love about summer is right outside your door. Enjoy scenic lift rides to the summit of southern Vermont’s tallest peak, 27 holes of championship golf, hiking, mountain biking, music, village dining, and more with special lodging o ers.
A Little of Austria…a Lot of Vermont®! Family fun and outdoor adventures await you across our 2,600-acre mountain resort run by the family that inspired The Sound of Music. Spectacular mountain views, history, farm and brewery tours, and European-style and New England cuisine featured across four restaurants.
Perfectly situated on 700 acres, Mountain Top Resort o ers luxury lodge rooms, cabins and guest houses, indoor/outdoor restaurant and tavern, pool, lake, private beach, horseback riding, 60km of trails, skiing/snowshoeing, sleigh rides, spa, spectacular views, and so much more!
When was the last time you touched the soft coat of a baby horse? Experience living history at this National Historic Site and University of Vermont teaching farm. Open May-Oct. for guided tours and special events. 74 Battell Drive, Weybridge, VT.
On the Dorset Green since 1796, Vermont’s oldest operating inn has been updated with elegant rooms and fireplace suites with jetted tubs. Its historic Tavern and Restaurant o er an award-winning wine cellar and superior cuisine in a refined setting. The charming village is also famous for outdoor pursuits and cultural activities.
A reinvented luxury farmhouse bed & breakfast for sophisticated, social travelers. Twenty-three rooms and suites, cozy tavern, seasonal heated saltwater pool, outdoor patios with firepits, and pop-up events just walking distance from town! Also specializing in customizable events.
Enjoy a vacation for the history books at our historic whole-house rentals, including Rudyard Kipling’s 1892 estate, an 1849 farmhouse overlooking our heirloom apple orchard, an 1802 retreat on 30 private acres, and a charming sugarhouse. Your stay supports the preservation of historic places.
The Boston Globe describes Fat Sheep Farm as “a magical place” o ering amazing views from modern cabins. Soak in the sunset by the firepit, taste the farm’s bounty, try your hand at milking sheep, or attend a cheese-making or sourdough workshop.
Celebrate live performance in Weston — your home for exceptional theater in Vermont! From the rollicking rise of the sensational Jersey Boys, to the magical quest of Pippin, Season 88’s wonderous and exciting lineup is not to be missed. For tickets and information, visit our website or call the box o ce.
This renovated farmhouse style B&B is in the heart of Woodstock. Stroll downtown through the covered bridge, hike the nearby National Park, visit Billing’s Farm or the Quechee Gorge, and enjoy walking to dinner each night. Guests rave about the breakfast in bed!
The idyllic Vermont retreat for couples, families, and adventurers. Enjoy cozy log cabins, luxury homes, mountain views, on-site spa services, endless trails, a private outdoor pool and pond, wedding and event spaces, and connection with nature.
through the largest “sunflower house” in the country. billingsfarm.org
Vermont History Museum, Montpelier
A series of expertly organized galleries in the capital city’s Pavilion Building takes visitors on a vivid 300-year tour, beginning with a facsimile of a bark-covered Abenaki dwelling. Progress through colonial upheavals, the rise of family farms and dairying, and the state’s discovery by skiers, vacationers, and the ’60s émigrés who helped create today’s Vermont. vermonthistory.org
BREWPUB
Bent Hill Brewery, Braintree
This destination brewery has long fascinated beer lovers with its bold flavorings—dill, blood orange, rhubarb, currants, graham crackers, and maple have all gone into the fermenters. Since 2021, the hilltop pub has offered a vegetarian menu that’s just as inventive, with things like pesto gnocchi, fried cauliflower tacos, and black
bean quesadillas to pair with fresh brews. benthillbrewery.com
Onion City Chicken & Oyster, Winooski
Someone had to bring the two together—on the menu, not the plate. The eponymous celebrities here are plump, fresh-shucked oysters and fried chicken from Vermont’s Misty Knoll Farm. Also on the card are cheddar beignets, lobster rolls, fish-and“crisps,” and the option to go low with a hot dog or high with osetra or beluga caviar or both with tater tots topped with trout roe, smoked char, and chive crème fraîche. onioncityvt.com
A Vermont Table, Brattleboro “Locally sourced” are the magic words for Vermont eateries these days, and this downtown Brattleboro newcomer sticks with the program, featuring the region’s meats and produce in its dinner and brunch menus. Look for grass-fed beef, Upper Connecticut Valley pork, and seasonal vegetables from area farms—even soy from Vermont beans. We’ll forgive the chefs for shopping elsewhere for white anchovies and bottarga. avermonttable.com
Tälta Lodge, Stowe
Styled as a “boutique base camp,” Tälta is at the center of outdoor action. Stowe Mountain Resort is nearby, as are the Long Trail, the Stowe Recreation Path, mountain-view golf courses, and mountain bike rentals. “Lodge” may sound rustic, but rooms range from fourperson bunk accommodations up to deluxe kings with patios. There’s also an indoor pool, a sauna, and a bar offering craft cocktails and light bites. bluebirdhotels.com/hotels/talta-lodge
Rockwell’s Retreat, Arlington
It’s not just a name. This was Norman Rockwell’s residence, where he painted many of his Saturday Evening Post covers. His homestead has been adapted as an inn, with accommodations divided between the main house, where rooms (one overlooks the Battenkill River) all have gas fireplaces, and studios in two outbuildings, one of which housed Rockwell’s workspace. All this history and inspiration comes with a full breakfast. rockwellsretreat.com
Blind Tiger, Burlington
Formerly the Willard Street Inn, this 1881 Queen Anne brick mansion harks back to the
days when Burlington nabobs made the Hill Section the city’s toniest neighborhood. No two of this boutique property’s 14 plushly furnished rooms are alike; choose from garden or Lake Champlain views, the best of which are from the Treehouse, located in a top-floor tower. larkhotels.com/hotels/blind-tiger-burlington
Quincy Hotel, Enosburg Falls
Small-town railroad hotels have mostly vanished—but not the 1876 Quincy, steps from the Enosburg Opera House and the Missisquoi Valley Rail Trail. Accommodations at this freshly revamped charmer with rocking chairs on its front porch include four one-bedroom and three two-bedroom suites, all with oversize windows and restored vintage furniture. Kathy’s Tavern serves homemade comfort food at phenomenally low (well, not 1876 low) prices. quincyhotelvermont.com
STATE PARK
Taconic Mountains Ramble State Park, Hubbardton
The centerpiece of one of Vermont’s newest state parks is a gorgeous Japanese garden created by Hubbardton residents Carson and Mickie Davidson, who bequeathed it and the rest of the future park property to the state in 2016. The Zen masterpiece incorporates dramatic rock outcrops, small serene ponds, a trickling waterfall, and floral plantings. It’s set amid 200-plus acres of gentle hills laced with hiking trails. vtstateparks.com/taconic.html
Downtown Murals, Rutland
Most of downtown Rutland’s two-dozenplus murals were painted in the past five years. From lively animal depictions to inspirational themes to a rural scene enlivening an alleyway and a striking portrait of climate activist Greta Thunberg, they make for a fun connect-the-dots walking tour of the city. Also discover downtown sculptures and BenchART Project’s vibrantly decorated benches. Maps available online. downtownrutland.com
ArtHound Gallery, Essex
This hound knows no bounds, gathering up as wide-ranging a selection of Vermont products as any gallery in the state. Jewelry, toys, housewares, artisan foods and beverages, and quirky creations share this space in a former shopping mall rebranded as the Essex Experience. ArtHound also represents original work by Vermont painters, printmakers, and photographers. arthoundgalleryvt.com
Ted’s Steamed Cheeseburgers, Meriden Connecticut is about the only place in the world where steamed cheeseburgers are found, and Ted’s is the ultimate place to try one. This modest eatery has a few booths and several stools inside, with a couple of picnic tables out front. Check out the stainless-steel steam boxes behind the counter: one for burgers, the other for gooey cheese. After several minutes in the heat, beef and cheese are united on a hard roll. So simple. So good. tedsrestaurant.com
Abbott’s Lobster in the Rough, Noank
The Connecticut Shore’s most famous lobster shack wows patrons with its slow-steamed lobsters, four types of lobster rolls (including the LOL, with a full pound of meat), and ringside seats to watch pleasure boats glide by on the Mystic River. In addition to all the lobster goodies, there are freshly steamed clams and mussels, chowders and bisques, stuffed clams, crab cakes, and steamed artichokes. Oven-roasted chicken and ribs are available for the seafood-phobic. BYOB is still the way to go. abbottslobster.com
Shady Glen, Manchester
Step back into the 1950s at this roadside ice cream parlor and restaurant best known for its Winged Cheeseburger. Waitresses don crisply ironed white aprons, and griddle cooks look dapper in white paper hats: a dress code that hasn’t changed in more than 70 years. Try some deep-fried seafood or the egg salad sandwich if you’re not in the mood for a meat patty with curled, crisp cheese splayed around the bun. Shady Glen’s homemade ice cream shines best with its seasonal sundaes. 860-649-4245
Old Lyme Inn, Old Lyme
You’ll have the Florence Griswold Museum, Lyme Art Association, and Roger Tory Peterson Estuary Center for neighbors when you check into this 1865 farmhouse turned inn. You’ll also have some extra money in your pocket, because it’s possible to score a $200 room here even at the height of summer. Good thing, since you’ll want to splurge on splendid offerings like Saturday afternoon tea, bubbly in the art-graced bar, a
prix fixe dinner on the tree-shaded patio, and groovy, big city–caliber performances at the Side Door Jazz Club. oldlymeinn.com
1754 House, Woodbury
Rescued from the brink by chef Michael BatesWalsh, who’s cooked at some of New England’s top properties, Connecticut’s oldest inn is looking spry of late. Sure, this 18th-century structure, which houses nine of 10 rooms (there’s a king suite in the Carriage House), has early-American architectural details, and the tavern speakeasy and restaurant’s convivial colonial surroundings intrigue guests as they dig into cast-iron skillets of mac and cheese with house-cured bacon. But today’s wanderers find comforts unimaginable 270 years ago—plus caramel corn on arrival. 1754house.com
ART MUSEUM
New Britain Museum of American Art, New Britain
Set in a scenic park, this family-friendly gem is the oldest museum in the country dedicated solely to American art. In its 120 years, it has amassed a collection that includes works by colonial portrait painters; Hudson River School artists; 20th-century luminaries like Thomas Hart Benton, Norman Rockwell, and Georgia O’Keeffe; and today’s groundbreakers. This summer’s blockbuster exhibition, curated by the National Gallery of Art, brings together works by more than 50 contemporary Native American creators. nbmaa.org
HISTORY MUSEUM
Connecticut Museum of Culture & History, Hartford
Known as the Connecticut Historical Society Museum until last fall, this institution hasn’t just rebranded as it preps to mark its 200th anniversary in 2025. It has made bold moves to be more relevant, inclusive, and interactive. From true crime–themed events to major exhibitions like “Connecticut’s Bookshelf,” which runs through September 8 and celebrates the state’s role in birthing Webster’s dictionary, the first fugitive-slave narrative in print, American cookbooks, and comics, it’s a place to think and do—not just view. connecticutmuseum.org
Gillette Castle, East Haddam
Looking like something out of a Tim Burton movie, this eerie landmark on the Connecticut
River continues to impress visitors, especially in the summer months when the 1914 fortress is open for tours. The brainchild of William Gillette, an actor best known for portraying Sherlock Holmes, the 24-room castle is filled with unusual furnishings such as built-in couches, a movable table on tracks, and 47 uniquely carved wooden doors. River-view picnic grounds and walking trails abound. ctparks.com/parks/gillette-castle-state-park
THEME PARK
Lake Compounce, Bristol
Your day or season pass at America’s oldest amusement park is a bit more valuable when there’s a concert booked on the floating stage, which made its debut last summer. It’s an addition that harks back to the park’s origins: A bandstand gazebo was the first attraction. And it’s especially appealing for visitors who shy away from big-thrill wooden coasters like Wildcat, expected to be back in action this summer and smoother than ever following a multiyear restoration. lakecompounce.com
Hoodoo Brown, Ridgefield
Follow your nose to this most excellent barbecue stand on the outskirts of tony Ridgefield. Hoodoo Brown specializes in authentic Texas-style barbecue, slow roasting its meats in large barrel smokers scattered around the low-slung building. Beef brisket pairs nicely with a side of pit beans and a slab of homemade cornbread. Pulled pork, spareribs, and crackling pork belly are other pit standouts. hoodoobrownbbq.com
Ore Hill, Kent
If you’ve followed Tyler Anderson’s meteoric career and perhaps, like Sir Paul McCartney, traveled hours to dine at one of his restaurants, then heads up: The celebrity chef is hanging out on the Connecticut–New York line these days, serving as culinary director for the only Connecticut restaurant to make The New York Times ’s current list of America’s 50 best restaurants. The building, a revamped 18th-century farmhouse, is as stunning as the tasting menu plates crafted with meticulously selected, just-harvested produce from farms on both sides of the border. Whether or not you opt for paired wines, it’s a tipsy
treat to dine this well so far from city lights. orehillandswyft.com
Gioia Café and Bar, New Haven
It takes courage to open a restaurant on Wooster Street, home of Pepe’s, Sally’s, and other classic Italian eateries. Yet two savvy restaurateurs did so in 2023. Gioia (pronounced JOY-ah) is a marvelous eating and drinking establishment with top-flight Italian fare, including comfort stalwarts like garlicky white bean soup and gnocchi cacio e pepe. An open kitchen is the scene-stealer in the bright, cheery dining room. On summer nights, head up to the rooftop café. gioianewhaven.com
29 Markle Ct., Bridgeport Bridgeport has been on the foodie map since chef and co-owner Damon “Daye” Sawyer, a Fairfield County native, launched his first restaurant at the tail end of 2022. A new finedining restaurant is a rarity these days, but Sawyer has been earning high praise for his eclectic American menu with lots of smoky flavor. Most ingredients are gathered from local sources, and the colorful dining space is lined with historic photos of Bridgeport and bold portraits of jazz greats. 29marklect.com
Trigo Wood Fired Pizza, Willimantic
In a state where pizza is a religion, this 2023 newcomer is having a moment with its twin wood-burning ovens churning out artisanal California-style pies. Owner Patrick Griffin adorns each one with fresh ingredients from brother Phil’s farm in nearby Lebanon. Try Trigo’s famed Nightshade pizza with smoked scamorza cheese, fresh shallots, arugula pesto, and a thin, blistered crust. Or go for the more conventional mushroom pie with scamorza, caramelized onion, and bacon. trigokitchen.com
The Surfside Hotel, Stratford
When Doug and Daneen Grabe rebooted this longtime motel and restaurant into the Surfside, they raised the prominence of Long Island Sound even more at their 27-room boutique gem on Connecticut’s Gold Coast. Water views overfloweth, and there’s easy access to the sands directly in front of the hotel. Stretch out for some beach yoga, then reward yourself back at your sunny base camp with stellar in-room services, from massages to four-course customized dinners. Paddleboards and complimentary
bicycles are available, and because the Surfside is pet-friendly, Fido won’t miss a beat of your adventure. thesurfside.com
Getaway Machimoodus, Moodus
Provision up for a stay in the woods that’s regal compared with tent camping, cozy compared with your first apartment, and therapeutic compared with whatever life’s been handing you lately. In this complex of 45 tiny house–style cabins on the quiet side of the Connecticut River, the one you receive a code to unlock just two hours before arrival will feel like a window-walled realm all your own. Sequester your phone in the provided box (really)—at least until the flames in your firepit falter, your belly’s full of s’mores, and you want to play your song on the Tivoli Audio Bluetooth radio. getaway.house
The Bruce Museum, G reenwich
Who says bigger isn’t better? Having wowed visitors with its world-class exhibitions of art, science, and natural history for more than a century, the Bruce upped the ante last year, thanks to a $67 million renovation that more than doubled its size, adding state-of-the-art gallery, education, and community spaces, as well as a new sculpture garden, museum store, and restaurant. Works by Picasso, Matisse, and Renoir are just a few of the more than 15,000 astonishing treasures found here. Which is to say, you’re gonna need another visit. brucemuseum.org
Yale Peabody Museum, New Haven
Dinosaurs once again roam Whitney Avenue as Yale’s natural history museum gradually reopens after four years of major renovations. The main galleries were revealed this spring, allowing visitors to take in the dramatic changes and enhancements that have been made to the museum’s core. Exhibit space has increased by 50 percent, and the building’s layout is completely new. peabody.yale.edu
American Mural Project, Winsted AMP is, above all else, a visual phenomenon. The 120-foot-long, five-story mural celebrating American workers is the world’s largest indoor collaborative work. More than 15,000 students and adults helped artist Ellen Griesedieck create it. And even as you ascend to higher viewing levels via elevator or stairs, you can never quite take it all in. In its second full year, AMP is counting on you to guide its next phases. How? By voting with your presence at concerts, talks, writing workshops, teen theater productions, and other events, you’ll inspire more of the same. americanmuralproject.org
Jigger’s Diner, East Greenwich
Shoehorned between larger buildings on East Greenwich’s scenic Main Street, this baby-blue Worcester diner car has been lovingly restored. All-day-breakfast and lunch dishes here have distinctly Rhode Island touches. Try the cornmeal johnnycakes or one of the dozen-each versions of eggs Benedict and omelets. Meaty torpedo sandwiches are daily lunchtime specials, along with healthy salads. Rhode Island coffee milk is the beverage of choice. jiggersdiner.com
Angelo’s, Providence
Owned by the same extended family from the beginning, this classic red-sauce restaurant celebrates its 100th anniversary in 2024. Angelo’s prides itself on being the “workingman’s” Italian eatery, serving basic fare at affordable prices. Start with the unique meatballs-and-fries combo, introduced during the Great Depression to give customers a little extra starch in their diets. The main show features endless combinations of pastas and sauces, plus traditional favorites such as braciola and stewed veal with peppers. angelosri.com
O Dinis, East Providence
A top gathering spot for East Providence’s Portuguese-American community (and those in the know), this neighborhood eatery is worth a detour. Experience authentic Portuguese cuisine like steamed littleneck clams in white wine and garlic, spicy chouriço sausage, grilled salted cod, and pan-seared sirloin steak in a beer and garlic sauce. Monday-night patrons are serenaded by Portuguese crooners, singing songs from the old country. odinisrestaurant.com
Evelyn’s Drive-In, Tiverton
There are two compelling reasons to visit this enduring Rhody food stand: its authentic eastern Rhode Island seafood and the tranquility of Nanaquaket Pond. Evelyn’s has been offering both since 1969. Start with broth-based Rhode Island clam chowder and puffy clam cakes. Then move on to a plate of deep-fried clams or calamari. For those feeling adventurous, there’s lobster chow mein, an Evelyn’s original. Sunsets on the water are a better finale than dessert. evelynsdrivein.com
Newport Harbor Island Resort, Newport Newport’s most prominent hotel has lived several lives, and it’s being reborn again this year thanks to a $50 million makeover that showcases local artists. Rooms and public spaces are freshly dressed in organic materials and a subdued, floral-inspired color palette. You’ll also find a newly launched restaurant that recalls Goat Island’s past as a center for manufacturing torpedoes for the U.S. Navy—helping to restore a sense of place to a resort that’s just a short bridge away from one of America’s most historic seaports. newportharborisland.com
Ocean House, Watch Hill
There will always be echoes of 1868 at this lemon drop–colored Victorian overlooking the tumbling sea. But since the historic hotel was rebuilt in 2010, it’s achieved a level of modern luxury unequaled in New England. Yes, it costs a pretty penny to stay, particularly during the summer high season, when beach cabanas, yachting adventures, and rounds of croquet are on offer. But you don’t need a room key to nab a table on the veranda for drinks and local oysters. Just toss on a swishy sundress or crisp slacks, and go live the life. oceanhouseri.com
General Stanton Inn, Charlestown
After nearly three centuries of feeding and sheltering travelers along the Boston Post Road—including George Washington and some other guests who supposedly stuck around as ghosts—the General Stanton Inn was feeling its age by the time history-loving husbandand-wife team David and Jackie Moore bought the landmark. Before reopening in 2022, they trimmed down to 14 guest rooms and added niceties like air conditioning and private baths while retaining ceiling beams and other 18th-century elements. The attached tavern, refocused on locally sourced seafood, was named a top South County restaurant within a year of its debut. thegeneralstantoninn.com
Misquamicut Beach, Westerly
Three miles of soft sand and a moderate offshore break for bodysurfing are the draws: Many ocean lovers take up residence for a night, week, or month in modest oceanfront hotels and vacation rentals within a wagon tote of the shore. Seafood
restaurants, beach bars, and music venues like the Windjammer and Paddy’s, plus an old-school amusement park, round out the quirky scene, along with a full calendar of events that includes drive-in movies, classic car shows, a free concert series, and full-blown festivals to open and close the summer season. misquamicut.org
WaterFire, Providence
The Capital Center district has literally grown up around WaterFire since Barnaby Evans staged his first fiery art installation 30 years ago. Providence Place Mall, residential high-rises, and restaurants have risen along the rivers and cove basin where dozens of bonfires flicker on select “lighting” nights, accompanied by an ethereal musical score. There’s no charge to immerse yourself in the romance of it, but you may want to splurge on a tour by gondola or flat-bottomed boat, or support local food and craft vendors. waterfire.org
North Burial Ground, Providence
For more than 300 years, thousands of people from all walks of life have been interred at this 110-acre resting place set in the undulating hills north of downtown Providence. There are dozens of pathways meandering through the grounds, ideal for invigorating, enlightening strolls among a vast array of tombstones and other monuments. Events and tours occur throughout the year, bringing a hallowed public property to life and stirring inspiration from those who came before us. providenceri.gov/parks/north-burial-ground
Myrtle, East Providence
This funky neighborhood bar opened its doors last fall and has been a godsend to locals and out-of-towners alike. Myrtle is equal parts watering hole, music venue, and thrift shop— all passions of the owners, who blend the three businesses under one roof. The bar specializes in serving locally made spirits and Portuguese wines; there is live jazz, rock, or folk music nearly every night; and a side room is loaded with vintage garb for sale. givemyrtle.com
Audrey’s Coffee House and Lounge, South Kingstown
Check out Audrey’s if you like your latte served with a side of romance and reality TV.
Owners Jared Haibon (a Rhode Island native) and Ashley Iaconetti (who has 1.2 million Instagram followers) met on season 2 of Bachelor in Paradise, fell in love, married, had kids, and opened Audrey’s together in 2021. As you might expect, the branding, social media, and viewing-party game at this bright and inviting gathering space are all on point, but you don’t have to be a celebrity stalker to appreciate the big menu of hot and cold coffee drinks, served alongside breakfast and lunch sandwiches. Evening’s “After the Final Rose” menu features cocktails, charcuterie, and flatbreads. audreysri.com
122 Sakonnet Point Rd, Little Compton, RI | 401-635-2222
www.newportexperience.com
Maven’s Delicatessen , Pawtucket
This newcomer wows with authentic Jewish food and a true deli atmosphere. The long, cavernous room is lined on one side with tables and booths for noshing and on the other by a deli counter stocked with meats, salads, and baked goods, including bialys and several types of bagels. The cured corned beef and pastrami, latkes, matzo ball soup, and homemade kugel complete the full-on New York–style deli experience. mavensdeli.com
Wake gently with the sun, and find breakfast bites almost too pretty to eat. Stretch by swimming laps or in yoga class. Wander through a walled garden or among the vines. Order a charcuterie tower and a flight of estate wines. Retreat to the softness of your room for a snooze. If it all sounds like a Tuscan villa escape, you’re not wrong (just about 4,000 miles off). This winery and 26-room destination inn awaits in South County, where beaches and seafood beckon, too. Stay in the gracious stone manor or in contemporary rooms fashioned out of a former girls’ boarding school. shepherds.run A
The Kitchen @ Surf Shack , Narragansett
A native of Côte d’Ivoire and graduate of Rhode Island’s own Johnson & Wales culinary school, chef Momo Camara has burst onto the scene with a sneakily sophisticated menu that’s not what you would expect at a beach shack that’s also a six-room B&B. As you sip a frothy purple cocktail (that’s ube extract giving the coconut cream and tequila a summery hue), agree to share an assortment of small and main plates with your surfboard-shaped-table mates. Polynesian-inspired head-on prawns, local clams tossed with udon noodles and spicy Szechuan chili sauce, and a Japanese take on mussels frites are a good place to start. surfshacknarragansett.com
Shepherd’s Run, South Kingstown
Dragons & Mythical Creatures, Providence
This spring and summer, Roger Williams Park Zoo will be home to an amazing display of life-size animatronic creatures from myths around the world. Dragons from European and Asian folklore, as well as mermaids, squidlike krakens from Scandinavia, and other legendary creatures, come to life in this walk-through exhibit containing more than 60 luminescent beings. Step right up, buy a ticket (zoo admission not included), and prepare to be wowed by this entertaining, limited-run experience. rwpzoo.org/dragons
Level99, Providence
This isn’t some ’80s shopping mall arcade. Located atop the Providence Place Mall, Level99 is an escape room on steroids with 50 teamwork-oriented mental and physical challenges with distinct themes. The difficulty level is set just high enough to keep you coming back until you solve them all. Some are straight brainteasers, while others include elements of ropes courses and obstacle course races, such as dodging a swinging set of cartoony giant axes. The biggest surprise? Excellent food and local beer at Night Shift Kitchen & Tap, including some of the best Detroit-style pizza east of the Motor City. (In Massachusetts? There’s a Level99 at the Natick Mall.) level99.com
In Your Ear, Warren
Owner Chris Zingg’s record store, founded in Providence in 1985 and relocated to Warren’s Market Street in 2008, is still a hit with audiophiles. Bin divers now have a second vast collection of new, used, and collectible LPs and CDs to browse at the new In Your Ear on Child Street, where there’s also a bar and restaurant offering live music and, when bands aren’t playing, a chance to spin your newly acquired vinyl on the sound system. A pending 180-seat theater promises to add to the aural ecstasy. iye.com
Trolls at Ninigret Park, Charlestown
Famed Danish artist and environmentalist Thomas Dambo is set to install two of his beloved troll sculptures in scenic Ninigret Park just in time for summer visitors. These much-larger-than-life figures bring a sense of whimsy and wonder to Rhode Island for all to see, free of charge, anytime the park is open. Dambo makes his sculptures out of reclaimed natural materials and uses local volunteers to help build them and give them local character. southcountyri.com
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entangled with not one, but two other dog teams. But I somehow struggled to the finish line, and the second day, under blue sky, we raced along as if I had been doing it my whole life. For days afterward, I would return to those moments when we passed other teams, and the heads of the dogs would snap to the side, and sometimes there would be a low growl and a fleeting nip…and then we would be past.
nd still, more memories seem to speak: Tell them about me , they say.
How can I not include my winter weekend atop Mount Washington in the depths of winter, wind howling outside the weather observatory, the otherworldly rime ice coating the buildings, the feeling of how thin the line is between safety and peril in such harsh yet beautiful surroundings?
Or the summer night when I joined thousands of people along the banks where Providence’s rivers flow together to see the stunning WaterFire installation? Music cascaded all around, and fire tenders glided past, setting bonfires alight. Every molecule of my body seemed to absorb the sounds, the light, the smoke rising from the water.
Or the day at Mystic Seaport when I climbed down into the hold of the Charles W. Morgan, the last surviving wooden whaling ship, and felt what it must have been like to be a whaler, living at sea for months, even years, filling that hold with blubber and whale bones?
Or when the owner of the North Hero House in the Champlain Islands, one of my favorite places on earth, said he wanted to show me a place few of his guests ever saw? We turned off a dirt road just minutes from the inn, and suddenly the dusk sky was filled with a torrent of great blue herons coming home to roost, the sounds of their rookery making me feel as if I had wandered into a secret prehistoric society.
I want to end with my newest “forever” travel memory. In late October my wife, Annie, and I, along with Rudy, our old Jack Russell, spent a week on Cape Cod in a tiny shingled cottage in North Truro. The cottage was called Lil Rose, and in the mild ocean air, roses still bloomed. The beach stretched to Provincetown, and each morning we walked a mile or two before Rudy grew tired and I picked him up and carried him, his head resting on my hands. We then drove to P-town and took in the heady mix of people and shops and endless bicycles swerving in and out along the narrow streets. Each day ended at Race Point Beach. The sunsets there draw an audience every evening, but it was in the cool air of late afternoon that the seals bobbed past us, only a few feet away, diving through the waves. I watched them swim farther west until they vanished. I picked Rudy up, and as the sun began to set and the seals headed back to whatever bit of land they knew as their home, so, too, did we.
n Waterford, ME: Stay at the Waterford Inne or Bear Mountain Inn, and see why this Maine village is remembered so fondly. thewaterfordinne.com; bearmtninn.com
n Nugent’s Camps: Patty and Al Nugent’s legacy is continued today by the Thornton family. Chamberlain Lake, ME; nugentscamps.com
n Baxter State Park: Let the bears be, and find adventure on the park’s 220plus miles of matchless wilderness trails. Millinocket, ME; baxterstatepark.org
n Maine Windjammers: Cruise magnificent Penobscot Bay on a historic sailing vessel. Camden, ME; sailmainecoast.com
n Higgins Beach/The Breakers: Open during the off-season, the inn closes during July and August. Scarborough, ME; thebreakersinn.com
n Whitewater Rafting: Northern Outdoors reigns as Maine’s original whitewater rafting company. The Forks, ME; northernoutdoors.com
n Dogsledding: Two leading outfits are Muddy Paw Sled Dog Kennel in New Hampshire and Mahoosuc Guide Service in Maine. dogslednh.com; mahoosuc.com
n Mount Washington: Book an overnight EduTrip at the summit with the Mount Washington Observatory. Jackson, NH; mountwashington.org
n WaterFire: Then and now, a sensory experience not to be missed. Providence, RI; waterfire.org
n Mystic Seaport Museum: Explore New England’s maritime heritage from stem to stern. Mystic, CT; mysticseaport.org
n Heron Rookery/North Hero House: The rookery is noisy as ever, minutes from the refurbished lakefront inn. North Hero, VT; northherohouse.com
n Race Point Beach: Part of the Cape Cod National Seashore—home to seals, whales, and even white sharks. Provincetown, MA; nps.gov/places/ race-point-beach.htm
Also known as Nantucket Light
Forrest Pirovano’s painting “Great Point Light” shows a lighthouse on the Northernmost point of Nantucket
Great Point Light is located on the northernmost point of Nantucket Island. It sits on a thin spit of beach where the currents of the Atlantic Ocean and Nantucket Sound meet. The original wooden tower, built in 1784, was destroyed by fire in 1816. A stone tower was erected the following year, which stood until it was toppled in a storm in March 1984. The lighthouse was reconstructed in 1986 and remains standing today. Modern additions include solar panels to recharge the light’s batteries and a sheet pile foundation and thick concrete o mat to help withstand erosion. Visiting the famed lighthouse is a highly recommended activity when visiting Nantucket.
This exquisite print is bordered by a museum-quality white-on-white double mat, measuring 11x14 inches. Framed in either a black or white 1 ½ inch deep wood frame, this limited-edition print measures 12 ¼ X 15 ¼ inches and is priced at only $149. Matted but unframed the price for this print is $109. Prices include shipping and packaging.
Forrest Pirovano is a Cape Cod artist. His paintings capture the picturesque landscape and seascapes of the Cape which have a universal appeal. His paintings often include the many antique wooden sailboats and picturesque lighthouses that are home to Cape Cod.
P.O. Box 1011 • Mashpee, MA 02649
Visit our studio in Mashpee Commons, Cape Cod
All major credit cards are welcome. Please send card name, card number, expiration date, code number & billing ZIP code. Checks are also accepted.…Or you can call Forrest at 781-858-3691.…Or you can pay through our website www.forrestcapecodpaintings.com
which to participate—such as gardening, which
Gardener: Find Empowerment in Creating Your Own Food Security (Cool Springs Press, 2022). Our gardens are bringing us together, both physically and virtually. “The power of social media allows growers from all walks of life to connect over common passions like gardening,” adds Thomas.
Far more than just plants, gardens are integral to our own health and that of our neighbors, community, and the world around us—and they are cropping up in unexpected places. “Therapeutic gardens continue to grow in number,” reports Diane Blazek, executive director of the National Garden Bureau. Hospitals and rehabilitation centers are finding that gardens keep patients calm, while schools are finding that gardens boost students’ social and cognitive skills.
• a partially open gate, which is welcoming
• chairs that can be easily moved (for group seating) or a bench with a view
• an accessible path (free of obstacles or hindrances), which allows for a departure from worldly concerns
• shrubs and flowers that can be touched or smelled and/or herbs for tasting
• trees or bushes that host birds, which add motion and music to the scene
• a water feature, which when still lends calm and reflects cloud motion and when running adds music and masks noise
An adjustable leather lined Mary Jane, made for every moment. For relaxed days in seasonal colours, for dressier occasions in eye-catching nubucks and for fun-packed weekends in bold shades.
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Red Leather
(Continued from p. 144)
push-up pops, a TV (with remote control!), takeout from Kentucky Fried Chicken, a ride on the combine. Maybe even a visit to the mall, for new and fashionable clothes of my own. And I remember visiting in the winter, and how when it snowed, my uncle would tie a plastic sled to the back of his Honda three-wheeler and tow my cousins and me around the farm until we got too cold or someone fell out and started crying.
with a bowl cut and secondhand jeans from an odd little place far, far away). And the landscape: To my young eyes, the topography was featureless and flat, fields of corn and soy everywhere you looked, all the roads laid out in a grid. It seemed to me you could drive for miles with your eyes closed and perhaps the worst that would happen is you’d end up in someone’s cornfield. So maybe I had not yet fully assimilated the truth that no place is insignificant. Maybe it’s just that with time, the significance erodes. Or we think it does, anyway. Maybe that’s what compelled my mother to leave her hometown after graduating from college, eventually making her way to Vermont, and to my father.
Sometimes we would stay for weeks, and that’s when I started to become bored, having gotten my fill of creamsicles and game shows (my grandmother particularly loved The Price Is Right and its effortlessly dapper host, Bob Barker) and 20-piece buckets of extra-crispy chicken with sides of slaw and mashed potatoes. Maybe I even got a little bored with my cousins, too (who must also have grown weary of me, an odd little boy
I haven’t been back to Iowa since my grandmother’s funeral, nearly 30 years ago. The farm has long since been sold. My uncle has died, my cousins moved away: Chicago. Omaha. Phoenix. My aunt has remarried, and she and her husband built a beautiful new home where my grandparents’ old house once stood. So
much has changed, yet many of the fields my ancestors first cultivated still produce crops. The small towns I used to ride through in the back of my grandparents’ Buick (a Buick! of course) are still there, quietly enduring under that vast Midwestern sky, full of people whose lives are just as complicated, challenging, rich, rewarding, and uncertain as my own.
This summer, my mother and I are going back. She’s 83, and I think she knows this might be her last visit to the place where she was raised, and to the people she was raised among. Or the ones who remain, anyway. I have a fantasy that we’re going to drive: I’ll rent some behemoth SUV (in my mind, a Chevy Suburban), shiny black with tinted windows, and she can recline in the cavernous back seat while I take the wheel, the miles piling up behind us like so much cordwood. I like driving, and I have an unusual endurance for long stints (carrot sticks and black coffee—that’s my secret). We won’t talk much, because my mother doesn’t hear much, and we’ll stop only for gas and bathroom breaks. I’ve already Google-mapped it: 1,239 miles. Eighteen hours and 47 minutes. Hell, we can just about be there in time for dinner.
the poem reads:
“Across the years I will walk with you— in deep, green forests; on shores of sand: and when our time on earth is through, in heaven, too, you will have my hand.”
Or maybe we should take the train: We’ll reserve one those fancy sleepers, though we’ll spend our waking hours in the lounge car, eating salted peanuts and watching the world rush by. I know my mom won’t be able to hear a thing over the hum and clack of the train, so I’ll pass her notes and communicate in exaggerated charades.
Truth is, we’ll probably fly. And that’s OK, too. I still get a rush every time I feel those big engines kick in. I still marvel at the ingenuity of it all, and how in only a few hours you can trade one world for another. In this case, the hills and hollows of Vermont for the sweeping expanse of Iowa, and that sense of unlimited space, like now you can finally breathe in a way you didn’t even know you weren’t breathing before. And in between, far, far below us, all those cities and towns and people within them with so many stories of their own.
Dear Reader,
The drawing you see above is called The Promise It is completely composed of dots of ink. After writing the poem, I worked with a quill pen and placed thousands of these dots, one at a time, to create this gift in honor of my youngest brother and his wife.
Dear Reader,
“Across the years I will walk with you— in deep, green forests; on shores of sand: and when our time on earth is through, in heaven, too, you will have my hand.”
Now, I have decided to offer The Promise to those who share and value its sentiment. Each litho is numbered and signed by hand and precisely captures the detail of the drawing. As a wedding, anniversary or Valentine’s gift or simply as a standard for your own home, I believe you will find it most appropriate.
The drawing you see above is called “The Promise.” It is completely composed of dots of ink. After writing the poem, I worked with a quill pen and placed thousands of these dots, one at a time, to create this gift in honor of my youngest brother and his wife.
Measuring 14" by 16", it is available either fully-framed in a subtle copper tone with hand-cut double mats of pewter and rust at $145*, or in the mats alone at $105*. Please add $21.95 for insured shipping. Returns/exchanges within 30 days.
My best wishes are with you.
Now, I have decided to offer “The Promise” to those who share and value its sentiment. Each litho is numbered and signed by hand and precisely captures the detail of the drawing. As a wedding, anniversary or Valentine’s gift or simply as a standard for your own home, I believe you will find it most appropriate.
Sextonart Inc. • P.O. Box 581 • Rutherford, CA 94573 (415) 989-1630
Measuring 14" by 16", it is available either fully framed in a subtle copper tone with hand-cut mats of pewter and rust at $110, or in the mats alone at $95. Please add $14.50 for insured shipping and packaging. Your satisfaction is completely guaranteed.
All major credit cards are welcomed. Please call between 10 a.m.-5 p.m.
Pacific Standard Time, 7 days a week.
My best wishes are with you.
Checks are also accepted. Please include a phone number.
*California residents please include 7.75% tax
Please visit our website at www.robertsexton.com
MASTERCARD and VISA orders welcome. Please send card name, card number, address and expiration date, or phone (415) 989-1630 between noon-8 P.M.EST. Checks are also accepted. Please allow 3 weeks for delivery.
“The Promise” is featured with many other recent works in my book, “Journeys of the Human Heart.” It, too, is available from the address above at $12.95 per copy postpaid. Please visit my Web site at www.robertsexton.com
Taking a parent back to her childhood home reminds us that every town is special to someone.
ILLUSTRATION BY TOM HAUGOMAT
y maternal grandparents were born in southeast Iowa in the early 1900s, in a place and era that strongly suggested a life forever tied to the land. My grandfather was an only child, but my grandmother compensated by being one of 12, and you can be sure that each of those children knew what it meant to put in a day’s work. You can be sure that each of them knew the value of a dollar, and that no one complained about the patches on their clothing, or about sharing a room with their siblings. Or that if they did, it was the first and last time they complained.
When I was young, we would fly or take the train to visit my grandparents on their farm in Iowa, just a stone’s
throw from the Missouri and Illinois borders. I preferred the train, though I sure did love the moment of takeoff, the thrust of the jet engines, the impossible speed just before the plane nosed into the air. But I loved those long Amtrak lounge cars even more. I loved sitting and watching the landscape blur by, all those fields and forests and little towns that can seem so insignificant to passersby, but which serve as a container for the minutiae of the complicated lives of the people settled within. I think that somehow even as a boy I understood this: No place is ever truly insignificant, because no one is ever truly insignificant. Perhaps no thing is ever truly insignificant, either.
I both loved those visits and found them excruciatingly boring. I loved seeing my cousins, who lived across the narrow, two-lane road from my grandparents, and whose lives seemed exciting, even exotic, to me. All three were girls, and they wore their hair in stylish ways and dressed in fashionable clothes from the mall. I didn’t know much about stylish hair or fashionable clothes. Malls, either, come to think of it. Of course, I loved seeing my grandparents, too, but I was young, and probably what I loved most was all the things that seeing my grandparents meant: a freezer full of ice cream sandwiches and creamsicle
(Continued on p. 142)
The gull is serene. The gull is smooth. Give him a coast, a cliff and a sea breeze and he can glide forever. If suddenly gulls became rare like one in a thousand. If there was a sighting of a gull the Audubon crowd would call one another, grab their binoculars and nd places on the shore to catch a glimpse.
We have captured the pose. We have captured the serenity. We have the morning glide in out stretched wings studded with diamonds. And at the very center we place a gem; blue sapphire, green tourmaline, purple amethyst and more. Each Gull ring is pure magic as it sails along the coast.
Check out our website. We have dozens of Gull rings that sit low, close, comfortable. Twenty minutes online and you can nd your favorites and choose one.
