KYIV
K Y I V HISTORY
ARCHITECTURE
TRADITIONS
baltia
DRUK
Contents
Development of Self-Government in Kyiv
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Foundation of Kyiv
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The city of Volodymyr
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The city of Yaroslav
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Kyiv under Izyaslav
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Traditions of city self-guvernment under the Lithuanian rule
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Kyiv under the Polish rule
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Kyiv as a city within the Russian Empire
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Dear Reader, This book will tell you a lot about Kyiv —about major and minor historical events, about Kyiv’s architectural landmarks, its streets and parks. The book traces Kyiv’s development as a city from its earliest times and down to the present day. They usually say about ancient cities like Kyiv, «It’s old — and yet it is eternally young.» A lot has been written about Kyiv: dry statistical reports and poetic pieces; stories written about it and stories that went deep to discover its true essence; scholarly papers written about it and comic stories written with good humor, novels, memoirs and short stories. Kyiv can afford to be written about in any way imaginable. The Kyiv-born Russian writer Mikhail Bulgakov referred to Kyiv as «The City», with a big capital «C». For many people it is indeed The City. Some feel comfortable living in Kyiv, others only come to visit. Kyiv is a hospitable town, it treats its guests well. Kyiv is known for its mild character. Some people find it to be charmingly provincial, others appreciate its parks more than anything else. It is a likable place. A stroll through Kyiv streets or along the alleys of its parks invites a quiet reverie and unhurried contemplation, even though Kyiv, like any other modern metro polis, is a bustling place and at the rush hours its pace is as hectic as elsewhere. Architectural landmarks and abundance of architectural decor turn a stroll into a trip through the ages. Kyiv can become a good friend, not just a place boasting golden domes, palaces, multistoried offices and seats of government. Though Kyiv is a capital and thus the seat of all the branches of central government, it does not seem quite fit for the role of an administrative center — it is rather a place that can tell wonderful tales, and it is worthwhile to listen to these tales. This book will provide some answers to the questions that you might want to ask Kyiv. Welcome to Kyiv!
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Kyiv in the 19th–21th centuries
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Pechersk Lavra Monastery in Kyiv — a religious Center of Eastern Europe
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The other orthodox churches of Kyiv
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Cultural diversity
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Architectural Landmarks in the Center of Kyiv
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Architectural Complexes of Kyiv
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Streets of Kyiv
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Theaters, Museums and Parks
102 Tourism and Sports
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The National Museum of History of Ukraine is located on Starokyivska Hora
Monument to the legendary founders of Kyiv — Kiy, Shchek, Khoryv and Lybid (designed by sculptor V. Boroday and architect N. Fashchenko, and erected in 1982)
Foundation of Kyiv Archeological finds throw light on the problem of Kyiv’s foundation and its further development. The unearthed artifacts which date from the 5th 6th centuries CE, helped establish cultural links with later periods known from the finds made at Starokyivska Hora (Old-Kyiv Hill) and Zamkova Hora (Castle Hill). The available archeological evidence suggests that Kyiv began as a «proto-town», or Hrad Kiya (Kyi’s Town) which sprang up on Starokyivska Hora, and that Hrad Kiya was rather well fortified. Starokyivska Hora had very steep slopes on three sides, and its natu ral defensive potential was supplemented by artificial fortifications on the southern side of the hill. A deep moat (about 12 feet deep) and earthen fortifications were part of the defensive works. This ancient Hrad Kiya occupied a territory of about 2 hecta res (5 acres). Archeological finds suggest that at the earliest stages of its development Kyiv must have played the role of a political, administrative and religious center of the Slavic tribes that inhabited the area known as Seredne Podniprovye (the lands on both sides of the Dnipro River ). Hrad Kiya was the nucleus of the citadel which dominated over other settlements that could be found within the borders of the ancient town (a model of the citadel can be seen at the National Museum of History of Ukraine). In the very center of the place that was occupied by the citadel, several buildings (evidently dwellings and houses used for other purposes) were discovered as well as ceramics of the Korchtska culture type and a pagan shrine made of sandstone (the shrine was discovered by the archeologist V. Khvoyka in 1908). At the actual site of the shrine its reconstruction can be seen.
According to legend, Ascold was buried at a site now known as Ascoldova Mohyla (Grave or Tomb); a church was built there some time after Ascold’s death — Ascold is believed to have been a Christian; the Church of St Mykola which stands at Ascoldova Mohyla now was designed by architect A. Melevsky and built in 1810
View of Starokyivska hora Hill from Kiselyovka, also known as Zamkova hora
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The shrine is believed to have contained the altar of the pagan god Svetovid. According to some historians, the continuous history of Kyiv can be traced starting from the end of the last quarter of the 5th century. The date for celebrating the 1500th anniversary — May 1982, was chosen arbitrarily but it can be safely said that Kyiv is one of the oldest Slavic towns and that its history does span fifteen centuries. In the period from the 5th century to the 8th century Kyiv was a political center of Polyansky Knyazivstvo (a sort of a principality) which occupied the territory of today’s Lands of Kyivshchyna and Porosya. At the end of the 8th and in the early 9th centuries, the Polyansky, Derevlyansky and Seversky tribes united around Kyiv, and in Seredne Podniprovye a statelike formation came into being. It is now loosely referred to as «Ruska zemlya» (Land of the Rus). Kyiv became the center of this nascent state. The southern and northern lands formed a political union and the fullyfledged Eastern European state, Kyivska (Kyivan) Rus was thus formed.
A 19th-century engraving, Death of Ascold and Dir (The Year 882); it shows the murder of Kyiv dukes Ascold and Dir, committed on the order given by the Scandinavian military leader Oleh; the little boy that can be seen in the center of the picture is Ihor, a son of the Novgorod prince Rurik, the would-be ruler of Kyiv
In the middle of the 9th century Kyiv was ruled by Princes Ascold and Dir, both of whom are traditionally believed to have been direct descendants of Kiy, the legendary founder of Kyiv; in 860 and in 866, Ascold and Dir carried out raids into Byzantium; the then Byzantine emperor Basil I was forced to establish relations with Kyivan Rus; in 882, the prince of Novgord Oleh invaded Kyiv, had Ascold and Dir killed, and established himself as ruler of Kyiv.
10 A detail of the image of Virgin Mary with Child which was brought to light during the archeological excavations conducted at the site where the Desyatynna Church stood in the 10th century
Baptism of the Rus. A 19th —century engraving (after a drawing by A. Sharleman)
Important dates
The city of Volodymyr Grand Duke Volodymyr Svyatoslavovych (also known as Volodymyr the Great, or St Volodymyr) ruled Kyivan Rus from 980 to 1015. It was a period marked by the consolidation of the Kyivan political strength. The political reform, introduced by the Grand Duke in 988, was aimed at doing away with local tribal dukedoms; it strengthened the central power. But locally, the power remained in the hands of Volodymyr’s sons and his posadniks (governors appointed by the Grand Duke). Also in 988, Volodymyr was converted to Christianity and conver ted the state he ruled to this religion as well. It is believed though that Christianity began to be privately adopted as early as the 9th century, but it was only at the end of the 10th century that it became the official religion of Kyivan Rus. Kyiv at the time of Volodymyr’s rule occupied a comparatively small area. It strectehed from the site where now St Andrew’s stands to the point where Volodymyr Street crosses Velyka Zhytomirska Street, and from the Natio nal Museum of History of Ukraine to the site where upper platform of the Funicular cable railway is located. At the corner of Velyka Zhytomyrska Street one can see the spot at which the Sofiysky Gate used to be situated (the foundation of the gate is marked
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900
8th century emergence of Kyivan Rus; the founders of Kyiv Kiy, Shchek and Khoriv are mentioned in the chronicle, History of Taron, by the Armenian chronicler Zenon Glak. 882 Prince of Novgorord Oleh conquers Kyiv.
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1000
988 according to tradition, Grand Duke of Kyiv Volodymyr had Kyivans baptized on August 14; Christianity becomes a state religion.
1011 according to some Ukrainian historians, the recently conducted research suggests that the foundation of the Cathedral of Holy Sophia in Kyiv dates to 1011 rather than to 1017 or 1037 as was beleieved earlier. A UNESCO commission has accepted this new date as plausible. Holy Sophia of Kyiv was put on the UNESCO World Heritage Sites list in 1990. 1015 Sons of Volodymyr Boris and Hleb were killed by their older brother Sviatopolk, later called the Cursed. The murdered brothers were declared saints by the church.
A detail of a miniature from the Radziwill Chronicle, 15th century, which shows Prince Oleh on the throne of Kyiv
A drawing by the I. Shchedrovsky (19th century) shows Princess Olga mourning over the body of her husband Prince Ihor who was murdered by tribesmen from the Drevlyane tribe during a mutiny
945 Prince Ihor is murdered in a mutiny and his wife Olga becomes ruler of Kyiv.
A monument to Kiy, Shchek, Khoriv and Lybid (sculptor A. Kushch et al.)
Coins minted by Volodymyr I in the 10th century
Volodymyr Baptizing the Kyivans. A detail of a 19th-century mural by the Russian painter V. Vasnetsov in the Cathedral of St Volodymyr in Kyiv
A model of the Church of the Holy Mother of God (Desyatynna), the first stone church to be built in Kyivan Rus
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Details of the floor mosaics of the 10th-century Desyatynna Church (now at the National Historic Preserve Sofiya Kyivska) A detail of the diorama, Kyiv in the Time of Volodymyr I, created by D. Mazyukevych; the diorama is displayed at the National Historic Preserve Sofiya Kyivska (Holy Sophia of Kyiv)
on the ground by red quartzite stones). It was through this gate that the Mongol hordes of Batu, a grandson of Genghis Khan, burst into Kyiv in 1240, and since then the gate was often referred to as Batiyivsky Gate. The total area occupied by Kyiv in the early 10th century was about 10 hectares (25 acres). Similarly to other medieval towns, Kyiv was protected by defensive walls and palings. There were three gates in the defensive walls. The Sofiysku Gate had a stone defensive tower above the actual gate. The gate was about 12 feet wide. The central building of Volodymyr’s Kyiv was the Desyatynna Church (Church of the Tithes) which was built in 989–996, soon after the adoption of Christianity. A short distance away from the church, to the east, south and west of it, Volodymyr had his palaces built. The church was lavishly decorated with frescoes and mosaics, marble columns and capitals, and its floors were paved with colorful decorative plates. In one of the medieval chronicles, the Desyatynna Church is referred to as «the marble church». In December 1240, as the Mongols stormed into the city, the Desyatynna Church was destroyed with the city’s defenders and refugees dying in it. Adjacent to the Desyatynna Church was Babiy torzhok, the central square of Upper Town of Volodymyr’s Kyiv. The trophies that Volodymyr had brought from the city of Korsun (Chersoneses) in the Crimea — a quadriga of bronze horses and antique statues — were displayed at Babiy torzhok.
The first stone church to be built in Kyivan Rus, was erected during the reign of St Volodymyr in 989-996; the church was dedicated to the Most Holy Mother of God. Grand Duke Volodymyr is said to have allotted one tenth of his revenues (tithe) to the maintenance of the church; because of that the church was often referred to as Desyatynna, that is «of the Tithes» Volodymyr the Great and his wife Anne were buried in the church.
This marble sarcophagus of the the Desyatynna Church (now at the National Historic Preserve Sofiya Kyivska)
A miniature from the Radziwill manuscript of the 15th century shows Yaroslav on the throne
14 A portrait of Yaroslav the Wise (facial reconstruction on the skull by M. Gerasimov)
Altar of St George in the Cathedral of Holy Sophia
The city of Yaroslav
One of Grand Duke Volodymyr’s sons, Yaroslav who earned the byname of «Wise,» became ruler of Kyiv in 1019. Yaroslav’s rule, which ended with his death in 1054, was marked by a further expansion of his state and suppression of attempts of local rulers to overthrow Kyiv’s domination. Under Yaroslav the Wise, Kyiv grew in size and acquired many new churches and other buildings. A special emphasis was laid on architectural magnificence. New fortifications were built to strengthen Kyiv’s defensive works. The territory which under Volodymyr, was still «a field beyond the walls» was developed and included into the city limits. An imaginary line drawn from the spot where Velyka Zhytomyrska Street crosses Volodymyrska Street, then along Volodymyrska Street to Zoloti Vorota-Golden Gate, and from there along Yaroslaviv Val Street to Lvivska ploshcha Square and back to the starting point along Velyka Zhytomirska Street, will describe the circumference of Kyiv under Yaroslav. The defensive walls stretched downhill from Mykhailivska Hora along the present-day Kostelna Street to Maydan Nezalezhnosti (Independence Square) and then went back uphill to Zoloti vorota. Along the sturdy walls ran a deep moat; three gates — Zhydivsky (at today’s Lvivska ploshcha), Lyadsky (at today’s Maydan Nezalezhnosti) and Zoloti (in Volodymyrska Street) provided entrances to the city which had acquired all the features of a major medieval capital. The total length of the city walls reached 3.5 kilometers (over two miles) and at some places the walls rose to a height of 16 meters (over 50 feet). Kyiv occupied a territory of 80 hectares (200 acres). The city’s center was dominated by the Cathedral of Holy Sophia. This church was built in the first half of the 11th century (concentrated either in 1017 or in 1037). Close
In 1062, a small wooden church was erected above a cave which was dedicated to the Assumption of the Holy Mother of God. The images of the founders of the Pechersk Lavra Monastery can be seen in the 13th-century icon Svenska-Pecherska of Virgin Mary with Antony and Feodosiy.
A detail of the diorama, created by D. Mazyukevych,shows a view of ancient Kyiv as seen from the Zoloti vorota Gate (National Historic Preserve Sofiya Kyivska)
1050 1019–1054 Yaroslav’s reign 1051 The Pechersk Monastery is founded by Antony and Feodosiy; the monastery was to become a major Christian center of Kyiva Rus. First half of the 11th century — Grand Duke Yaroslav establishes
St George on a 12th-century icon; St George is known to have been Yaroslav’s patron saint
1086 Princes Anna Vsevolodna establishes a school for girls at the Andriyivsky Nunnery, the first school of its kind in Kyivan Rus 1088 The Mykhaylivsky (St Michael’s) Cathedral of the Vydubetsky Monastery is built under the auspices of Prince Vsevolod Yaroslavych of Kyiv
A miniature from the Radziwill manuscript of the 15th century shows Yaroslav as founder of a library at Holy Sophia
SS Antony and Feodosiy, founders of the Pechersk Lavra Monastery in Kyiv
a library at the Cathedral of Holy Sophia, Kyiv; one of the churches built close to the cathedral was dedicated to St Iryna.
Ruins of the Church of St Iryna. A drawing by V. Timm. 1858.
Family of the prince, drawing from the book Izbornyk Svyatoslava
1073 Izbornik Svyatoslava, a collection of texts put together for Kyiv’s prince Svyatoslav, Yaroslav’s son 1073–1089 The Mykhaylivsky (St Michael’s) Cathedral of the Vydubetsky Monastery is built under the auspices of Prince Vsevolod Yaroslavych of Kyiv
The Mykhaylivsky Cathedral of the Vydubytsky Monastery
A model of the Cathedral of Holy Sophia which shows how the church could have looked like in the 11th century (created by Yu. Aseyev, V. Volkov and N. Kresalsky)
An inside view of the Zoloti vorota Gate with fragments of 11th-century walls
to the cathedral, three other churches were built in a style similar to that of Sophia’s., but considerably smaller in size. One of these churches, Heorhiyivska, was dedi cated to St George who was Yaroslav’s patron saint, and another to St Iryna (the Christian name of Ingigerd, Yaroslav’s Scandinavian wife). The Zoloti vorota (Golden Gate) was designed for solemn occasions. There was a church, Blahoveshchenska (Annunciation), towering right above the gate itself. The width of the gate was 6.4 meters (21 feet) and with a length of 12 meters (40 feet) and a golden domed church above it was indeed a magnificent sight. The Cathedral of Holy Sophia of Kyiv was a seat of the Metropolitan of Kyivan Rus. Also, solemn ceremonies, such as enthronization of grand dukes, receptions of high-ranking foreign delegations, and other civil and religious occasions that required pomp, were held in the church. Certain occasions of state importance required the presence of veche — a general gathering of the people of Kyiv, who crowded around in Holy Sophia to collectively decide important issues. It is known that Yaroslav established a library, the first of its kind in Kyivan Rus, at the cathedral. The library contained hundreds of books, a considerable number for those times; at the library books were copied and translated. Grand Duke Yaroslav was buried in the cathedral, as well as his son Vsevolod and grandson Rostyslav.
A miniature from the Radziwill manuscript of the 15th century shows the tomb of Vyacheslav, Yaroslav’s grandson, in the Cathedral of Holy Sophia
Traditions of city selfgovernment under the Lithuanian rule
Grand Duke of Lithuania Aleksandr (ruled 1492-1506) who gave Kyiv privileges and more selfgovernment rights
The seal of Grand Duke Aleksandr. 1503
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Grand Duke of Lithuania Aleksandr gave the city of Kyiv some privileges and more rights in selfgovernment; tributes and taxes paid by Kyiv were reduced; later, Kyiv was granted the Magdeburg Law which further expanded the rights of self-gover nment. In May 1499, the rights of self-government stipulated by the Magdeburg Law, were confirmed. In 1514, the granting of the Magdeburg Law was once again confirmed; it gave the local population more rights in dealing with the Kyiv voivode (gover nor); the burghers of Kyiv were made subject only
The Magdeburg Law Column erected in 1802 in Kyiv (designed by A. Melensky)
A compendium of the privileges granted to the Mahystrat in Kyiv in the years 1544–1569 by the Grand Dukes of Lithuania and Kings of Poland
A slate tablet from the Assumption Church of the Pechersk Lavra Monastery in Kyiv (1470)
to the Magdeburg Law and were exempted form «obeying any other laws, be it Polish, Lithuanian or Rusky.» But still the burden of the many rules and laws remained heavy, the compulsory military service in particular. In 1516, Grand Duke of Lithuania Sigismund I granted Kyiv the Magdeburg Law in its fullest extent; merchant guilds were made subject only to the city jurisdiction and the locals were allowed to run taverns and trade in alcoholic beverages. Within the period from 1363 to 1569, Kyiv, then under the Lithuanian rule, was granted the self-government rights under the Magdeburg Law a dozen times, with 47 privileges and special rules issued 47 times. The self-government increased its sphere of influence at the expense of the governor’s power.
1350 1362 First half of the 14th century — emergence of Lithuania on the political arena. 1362 Grand Duke Olgerd defeats the Tetras at the Battle of the Blue waters and occupies Kyiv. The Duke installs his son Vladimir in Kyiv who ruled until 1394. The Kyiv lands was incorporated into the Lithuanian state with Kyiv as center of a new Kyiv province.
Grand Duke Olgerd (ruled 1344–1377?); from an 18th century engraving after a drawing by Ya. Orzemblowski
A silver coin (obverse and reverse) of Vladimir Olgerdovych (1367–1384) unearthed during excavations at Zamkova hora, Kyiv
1450 1370s–1380s Vladimir, son of Olgerd, builds a wooden castle on one of the hills of Kyiv; the hills is referred to as Zamkova, that is Castle’s Hill. At the castle were minted silver coins. 1440–1470 the Rule of the descendants of Olgerd. 1471 Kazimierz IY, Polish king and Grand duke of Lithuania, turns the Kyiv province into voivodstvo (governorship).
End of the 15th — early 16th centuries Kyiv is granted the Magdeburg Law and develops its self-government.
Aleksandr (Olelko) Vladimirovich, prince of Kyiv from 1440 to 1450 (a copy of a lost original)
The seal of Kazimir Yagaylovych
A medal of Grand Duke of Lithuania Sigismund I (1506-1544)
The years grandson of Olgerd, prince Alexander Vladimirovich (1440–1455) and his son Semen (1455–1470) ruled was a period of stabilization of political life of the region, as well as cultural and economical revival of Kyiv, which became a significant center of craftsmanship and trade. The restoration of the stone architecture of the old-Rus times, especially of the Assumption Cathedral of the Kyiv Pechersk Monastery in 1470, renewed economical strength indicated that Kyiv’s economy was reviving.
Sigismund the Old. A painting by Ya. Smuhlevych A view of a Lithuanian castle at Zamkova hora and of Podil. Based on a drawing by A. van Westerfeld. 1651
In 1482, during the raid led by the Crimean Khan Mengli-Hirey, the castle was captured and burned down; in 1532-1545, the castle was rebuilt; after the reconstruction, the castle had 15 defensive four-tiered towers
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There is some connection between the name of one of Kyiv hills, Zamkova hora (this hill was also referred to as Kyselevka or Florovska) and the old saying, You may consider lost what has fallen from the wagon; the thing is that the Lithuanian Castle that stood on Zamkova hora had a customhouse, and merchants who arrived at the castle with their goods had to go through the customs. According to some notes made by S. Herbertstein in 1549 and A. Cellarius in 1659, the import duty that was to be paid by the merchants depended on the number of the merchants’ wagonloads and the merchants tried to pack their goods in such a way so as to reduce the number of wagons carrying them; whatever fell from the wagons on the bumpy road, was confiscated by the customs officers and delivered to the governor.
The Lithuanian Castle at Zamkova hora (reconstruction by S. Klymovsky and V. Shcherbyna):
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A view of Podil and the Left Bank of the Dnipro from the top of Zamkova hora Hill
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1. Kryvy Bridge that connected Klynets hora Hill and Zamkova hora Hill; 2. Drabsky gate; 3. horodni (defensive works and place of storage); 4. a church of the Eastern rite; 5. the governor’s house; 6. a tavern; 7. konovyaz; 8. a Catholic chapel; 9. Voyevodsky gate with a clock tower; 10, 12. churches of the Eastern rite; 11. rooms of the castle garrison; 13. horodni (defensive works and place of storage).
KYIV. EVENTS AND FACTS
1801 - 1882 1834, January 7 The master plan of «municipal improvements» in Kyiv is approved.
1801 Russian Emperor Alexander I issues a confirmation of the Magdeburg Law rights for Kyiv. 1802–1808 The monument to the Magdeburg Law is erected in Kyiv (architect A. Melensky).
A page from the Statute of the First Hymnaziya (School) for Men, which was approved by the Russian Emperor Alexander I
1803 The first theater is built in Kyiv (architect A. Melensky). It was built of wood at the site where now stands the Ukriyinsky Dim Culture Center. 1809 The first hymnaziya school for boys is founded and its charter is endorsed (1811). The official opening ceremony was held at the Klovsky Palace in 1812.
The first theater in Kyiv. Drawing by N. Zakrevsky
Kontarktovy Dim (office where contracts were signed) in Podil
University of St Volodymyr. A 19th-century photo
One of the old telescopes of the University Observatory
1834, July 15 Official opening of the University of St Volodymyr 1837–1842 Construction of the central building of the University of St Volodymyr, designed by the architect V. Beretti 1838 The Institute of Girls from Noble Families is opened
1811, July 8 A conflagration sweeps through Podil, destroying several secti The 19th- century Anatomical Theater ons of that part of town and most (National Museum of Medicine) of the buildings and churches there.
1838 Baykove Cemetery is opened at Baykova Hora (the place was named after General S. Baykov who owned a little village which was situated at the site of the would-be cemetery; the village was bought from S. Baykov by Horodska Duma (municipal authority) in 1833). Many prominent statesmen, military commanders, artists, scholars and scientists were later buried at this cemetery
1812 A plan for the reconstruction and development of Podil is worked out.
1841–1845 Construction of the University Astronomical Observatory
P. Kulish and the title page of his Grammar
1842 The University Botanical Garden is laid out 1848–1853 Construction of the Chain Bridge across thr Dinipro River. 1851–1853 Contruction of the University’s Anatomical Theater. 1857 P. Kulish publishes his Ukrainian Grammar which, among other things, codifies the Ukrainian orthography. In 1856–1857, P. Kulih published two volumes of Zapiski o Yuzhnoy Rusi (Notes about Southern Rus) which played a significant role in the cultural life of Ukraine. The Chain (Mykolayivsky) Bridge across the Dnipro. 1872. Photo
The Moskovski Gate of the New Pechersk Fortress
1860 The first school for girls is opened (in 1862 it was given the status of hymnaziya). 1870 Construction of the railroad terminal. A railroad bridge across the Dnipro is put into operation.
1817 Construction of the Kontrakovy Dim (House of Contracts) is completed in Podil.
Ruins of the Desytynna Church. 1887. An engraving by E. Pannemaker
Ruins of the Golden Gate. A 19th-century photo
1830 Russian Emperor Nicholas I approves the construction of the New Pechersk Fortress. A considerable number of buildings in the part of town known as Pechersk had to be demolished in the process of clearing the land for the fortress. 553 houses were pulled down so that the ground in front of the fortress was clear of any obstructions (over 270,000 rubles, a great sum at that time, was paid to the owners of the torn down houses). The people were moved to the valley of the River Lybid and this new settlement within the city became known as Lybidska. 1824–33 Archeologist K. Lokhvytsky conducts excavations at the sites of the ancient Desytynna Chruch, St Iryna’s Church and the Golden Gate.
1872 A centralized water supply system is introduced. The first railroad terminal in Kyiv. A 19th-cntrury photo
1875 The Oleksandrovska Hospital is opened 1862–1882 Construction of St Volodymyr’s Cathedral
The railroad bridge across the Dnipro River. A 19th-century photo
The old building of the City Telegraph Office
1882 Kyivskaya Starina (Kyiv Antiquities) historical and ethnographic magazine begins to be published. The first issue contained an article by the wellknown Ukrainian historian V. Antonovych, Kyiv, Its Destiny and Importance from the 14th to the 16th century (1362–1569). Among the contributors to the magazine were prominent historians, ethnographers, culture and public figu res (N. Kostomarov, A. Krymsky, D. Bahaliy and others). The magazine closed down in 1902 but its publication was resumed 1992.
1883 - 1922
Electric street lamps at the Opera House. A 19th-century photo
A streetcar at Oleksandrovsky (now Volodymrsky) Uzviz
1883 Telegraph begins to function. At the initial stages, the Kyiv Telegraph Office sent and received about 500 messages a day. 1883 The Svyato-Voznesenska Church at Demiyevka is consecrated (now the address is 54 Holosiyvsky Prospekt).
1912 — Construction of the Besarabsky Rynok market place (designed by the architect H. Hay) 1913 — The All-Russia Industrial and Agricultural Exhibition is held in Kyiv (the exhibition stayed open from June to October)
The National Music Academy (conservatory)
1913 — First taxicabs in Kyiv; the Kyiv Taxicab Society had at that time 20 cars (Fords, Dodges and Cases)
A draft design of the State Emblem of the Ukrainian People’s Republic
1886 — Telephone service begins to function.
1913 — Kyiv Conservatory is founded (in 1940 it was named for the Russian composer P. Tchaikovsky; now it is the P. Tchaikovsky National Music Academy at 1/3 Horodetsky Street)
1888, June 23 Unveiling of the monument to Bohdan Khmelnytsky. The central building of the Polytechnic Institute in Kyiv
The City Museum of Antiquities and Arts
1890 The first electric power station is put into operation. By the end of the 19th century over 400 electric streetlights were installed in Kyiv. 1892 The first streetcar line starts to function.
Members of the government of the Ukrainian People’s Republic
1917 — The Russian Empire collapses; Ukraine proclaims its independence; in 1917-1919, Kyiv is the seat of several successive governments (Tsentralna Rada, Hetmanat and Direktoriya)
Academician V Vernadsky
The monument to Hetman Bohdan Khmelnytsky in Sofiyska Square
1894 The centralized sewers system is put into operation (at the start, only the central parts of Kyiv were included into the system). Khreshchatyk, central street of Kyiv, in the early 20th century
The Troytsky narodny dim (now the Operetta Theater)
Bessarabka Rynok (market place)
The mansion that used to belong to the Tereshchenkos, industrialists and patrons of art
1897 The All-Russia Industrial and Agricultural Exhibition is held in Kyiv at Troyitska Square. 1898, August 15 The Kyiv Polytechnic Institute (now the University of Kyiv Polytechnic) is opened. 1899 The City Museum of Antiquities and Arts is unveiled.
A fair held at the Kontraktovy dim in Podil A street car in Kyiv in the first half of the 20th century
End of the 19th — early 20th century Construction boom in Khreshchatyk, the central street of Kyiv.
Pavilions of the All-Russia Industrial and Agricultural Exhibition
1901–1902 Construction of the Troyitsky Narodny Dim Culture Center (architect H. Antokolsky).
The Kyiv Film Studio. A 20th-century photo
1917 The Ukrainian State Art Academy is founded (among the founders were M. Hrushevsky, Ukraine’s first president, artists Vasyl and Fedir Krychevsky, A. Murashko. A. Manevych, H. Narbut). 1918, November The Ukrainian Academy of Sciences is founded; the first president of the Academy was the geologist and geochemist V. Vernadsky, a prominent scientist and thinker. 1919 The art collection of Bohdan and Varvara Khomenko is nationalized and an art museum of Eastern and Western art is set up on the basis of this collection (now it is the Bohdan and Varvara Khanenko Art Museum). 1922 The Kyiv Picture Gallery is opened in the mansion that used to belong to the industrialist F. Tereshchenko.
Pechersk Lavra Monastery in Kyiv — a religious
Center of Eastern Europe 32 Copy of the miracle-working icon of the Dormition of the Most Holy Mother of God. 17th cent.
Monastery seal. 1571
The founders of the monastery are believed to have been the monks Antoniy and Feodosiy who, in the year 1051, chose to live in the caves on a hill facing the Dnipro River. With the passage of time, the number of monks increased, the caves were connected with corridors. Later, the construction of churches and other buildings began on the ground. The Kyiv Metropolitan Illarion, the author of the Sermon on Law and Grace, played a significant role in turning the Pechersk Monastery (pechersk — from the word pechery, that is caves, as reference to the monastery’s origins) into a major religious center which contributed a lot to the spreading of Christianity and Christian morals in the Eastern Slavic lands,
Pechersk Monastery in Kyiv. A copy of a drawing made by A. van Westerfield in 1651
as well as to the development of culture. The monks were engaged in copying religious books, doing translations, writing chronicles, painting icons and murals. The word lavra (or laura, which in Greek means «lane») which is part of the monastery’s name, is an indication of the monastery’s great size and significance — there is only one other lavra monastery in Ukraine. In the Pechersk Lavra Monastery, there are two major underground systems of caves and connecting tunnels and corridors, known as Far Caves
Nestor the Chronicler. A drawing by L. Tarasevych. 1702
Page of Kyiv Pechersk Paterikon. 1661
The title page of the book of works of John Chrysostom (with caves and churches of the Pechersk Monastery in Kyiv in the background of the picture). 1623
and Near Caves, in which one can see underground churches and coffins of those monks who were honored with burial in the caves in the course of a one-thousand years of the monastery’s existence. Among the 118 monks thus honored are Nestor the Chronicler, Agapit the Healer, Alipiy (Alimpy) the Icon-painter who lived in the 12th century. The monastery maintained the continuity of traditions, both religious and cultural, which was of a particular importance during the times of internal political strife, invasions, revolutions and instability. The decline in the Pechersk Lavra Tombs of Martyrs Feodor and Vasiliy. Near Caves, in the Pechersk Lavra Monastery
Monastery’s importance as a cultural center began in the eighteen century though it continued to remain a great religious center. The archeological landmarks in the monastery which covers a large territory with many buildings dating from various times, include the Uspensky (Assumption) Cathedral (which was destroyed during WWII and recently rebuilt) and the Big Bell Tower that stands next to the cathedral. A view of the Pechersk Lavra Monastery
The icon of Antoniy Pechersky, founder of the Pechersk Monastery, in the underground system of corridors and caves known as Blyzhni Pechery — Near Caves; Antoniy’s burial place is behind the iconcase
Monk and icon painter Alipiy of the Pechersk Lavra Monastery. The memorial plaque. Sculptor Yu. Skoblikovv. 1982 The Church of All Saints
The other orthodox churches of Kyiv
The Kyrilivksy Monastery in the vicinity of the village of Kurenivka. A water color by F. Solntsev
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The Church of St Cyril used to be a part of the Kyrylivsky Monastery which was dedicated to St Cyril of Alexandria. It was built at a place called Dorohozhychi, not far from Kyiv, in 1139 under the auspices of the Grand Duke of Kyiv Vsevolod Olhovych. His wife, Princess Mariya Mstyslavovna had a church, St Cyril’s, built in the monastery in about 1150. The church became a burial places of the Princes Olhovychy. In 1194, the Grand Duke of Kyiv Svyatoslav Vsevolodovych, one of the protagonists of the great Slavic epic poem the Lay about Ihor’ Host, was buried in St Cyril’s. The church was
The central nave of the Church of St Cyril (viewed from the choir)
Archangel Gabriel. A detail of The Annunciation by M. Vrubel. Kyrilivska Church. 1884
reconstructed in the 18th century, when the whole monastery was restored and reconstructed after a big fire of 1734. The church of the monastery was decorated with stuccowork and the western façade acquired a new pediment. A new bell tower was built (at the spot where wooden buildings had once stood), as well as a refectory and a new gate. But very little of the original monastery (a part of the wall, two buildings, and a tower) has survived except for St Cyril’s. The murals in the interior of the Church of St Cyril were created in the mid-12th century and some of them have survived. They were painted over in later times and were discovered under the layers of paint during the restoration of 1860. The subjects of the murals dif-
The Angel Rolling the Sky Up (at the end of the world). A 12th-century fresco in the Kyrilivska Church
The melancholy-looking angel with a scroll in his hands is an image of the end of the world inspired by the Apocalypse: «The sky vanished, as a scroll is rolled up» (Rev. 6:14)
Last Judgment. A 12th-century fresco (painted over in oils in the 19th century). Kyrilivska Church
43 The Lamentation by M. Vrubel. 1884 The Kyrilivska Church
fer from what was usually painted in Orthodox churches - one of them was — Last Judgment, with scenes from the Apocalypses with very graphic depiction of hell. Extensive restoration work was carried out in the church in 1881–1884 with a number of teachers and students from the Murashko Art School in Kyiv taking part (among them — I. Izhakevych, I. Seleznev, Kh. Platonov and N. Pymonenko) under the general supervision of A. Prakhov, a professor of St Volodymyr University in Kyiv and prominent culture figure. The remarkable Russian painter M. Vrubel also made his contributions to the decoration of the church with paintings. Some of the surviving 12th-century frescoes were restored and others were painted over in oils. The walls on which the original frescoes had not survived were decorated with murals painted in oils. Vrubel was responsible for The Descent of the Holy Spirit and Angels with Labara on the vaults of the choir. He also painted icons for the iconostasis using suggestions of A. Prakhov — Jesus Christ, St Cyril, Virgin Mary with Child and St Athanasius.
The Holy Warrior. A 12th –century fresco in the Kyrilivska Church
The Descent of the Holy Spirit by M. Vrubel (in the Kyrilivska Church). 1884
The interior of the Kyrilivska Church is famous for its partially preserved frescoes of the 12th century and for paintings executed by the Russian painter Mikhail Vrubel at the end of the 19th century during the restoration work which was carried out in the church under the supervision of A. Prakhov. Vrubel’s Descent of the Holy Spirit is among his bestknown works
48 St Volodymyr’s in the early 20th century St Volodymyr. A mural in the Cathedral of St Volodymyr by V. Vasnetsov. 19th century
Cultural Diversity Kyiv has long been a city of diverse cultures, of many faiths and of deferent ethnics. The Cathedral of St Volodymyr (20 Taras Shevchenko Boulevard) is a remarkable architectural landmark of the nineteenth century. In 1852, an initiative was launched to have a new major church built to be dedicated to the Grand Duke of Kyiv Volodymyr who, after his own conversion to Christianity, converted the people of the lands he ruled in 988. It was proposed that the completion of the construction should coincide with the planned celebrations of the 900th Anniversary of the Baptism of Kyivan Rus in 1888. The foundation of the new church was laid in 1862 and the construction took over twenty years to complete. In the course of construction several changes were introduced into the original design. Several architects were commissioned to provide the design — I. Strom, P. Sparro, A. Beretti, R. Bernar and V. Nikoayev, the architect who actually brought the construction to completion. In 1885 the work on the interior decoration of the church began. The choice of subjects for the murals and overall supervision was entrusted to Professor A. Prakhov. A number of painters were commissioned to execute the murals. Among them were Russian painters V. Vasnetsov, M. Vrubel and M. Nesterov; Ukrainian painters — N. Pymonenko, S. Kostenko, and V. Zamraylo; and Polish painters P. Swiedomski and V. Katarbinski. Most of the work was done by V. Vasnetsov. The reaction to the interior decoration, completed in 1896, of the public was mixed, but most agreed that the church
Most of the murals were executed by the Russian painter V. Vasnetsov who was responsible for painting a total of three thousand square meters of wall surface which include 15 thematic compositions and 30 separate figures. The central image is that of the Virgin Mary with Christ Child in her arms. The figure, 10,5 meters tall (over 30 feet) is to be seen in the central apse of the church.
St Olga. A mural in the Cathedral of St Volodymyr by V. Vasnetsov. 19th century
Initially, the architect V. Nikolayev planned to make the design of the church rather simple and even modest, but Professor A. Prakhov insisted that the church must be richly decorated. He commissioned the best artists available and was able to find funds necessary for the execution of decorative work.
The Cathedral of St Volodymyr
49 Icon painter Alipiy. A mural in the Cathedral by V. Vasnetsov. 19th century
The interior of the St Volodymyr Cathedral
was indeed a worthy creation of the arts of architecture and painting. The purely ornamental murals created by V. Vrubel were highly praised. Among those who appreciated them was A. Benois, a Russian art historian, critic and cultural figure. He wrote: «They [the ornaments] are pure and inspired music that sounds from the walls… They are absolutely amazing. They do not follow any particular style — they have a style of their own. They are like wonderful carpets, not at all inferior to the best Persian or Arab carpets. Looking at them, I became convinced that Vrubel is a genius — and I went to see his work in St Cyril’s Church.» In the 1930s, St Voldymyr’s was shut down by the Soviet authorities and later it was turned into a museum of anti-religious propaganda. In 1941, during the Nazi occupation of Kyiv, the religious services were resumed. In 1944, after Kyiv’s liberation form the German occupation, the church was given the status of a cathedral of the Metropolitan of Kyiv and Halychyna. In the 1990s, it became Interior of the Uspenska Church (Church of the Old Believers)
The bell tower of St Nicholas’s Church. 18th century (6 Pokrovska St)
Old Believers (those Christians who refused to accept the Russian Orthodox church reforms of the seventeenth century and continued to stick to the old rituals) began to drift into Kyiv probably at the beginning of the nineteenth century.At first, the Old Believers who settled down in Kyiv, were mostly merchants. They donated money towards the construction of Old Believers’ churches and chapels. One of such churches is to be seen in Podil. It was built in 1897 to the design provided by the architect N. Kazansky (26, Pochaynytska Street). At first, it was used by private persons, but in the early twentieth century it began to be used by the whole community of Old Believers in Kyiv.
98 The building of the National Philharmonic Society (formerly the House of Merchants’ Guilds) at Evropeyska Ploshcha (Europe Square)
The Pinchuk Art Center Gallery at Besarabska Square
something of the 18th- century style in them. It was in Khreshchatyk that ceramic tiles in housing construction began to be used on a wide scale. The new appearance of Khreshchatyk combined ceremonial monumentality and lyrical, park-like grace provided by the numerous horse-chestnut trees. The reconstruction of Khreshchatyk after the most terrible of wars, was felt to be symbolic of a revival of hope for a better life. Of the three squares that are linked by Khreshchatyk, the central one, Maydan Nezalezhnosti, saw many political events and mass rallies — in 1905–1906, in 1917–1918, in the early 1990s, and then in late 2004-early 2005 (the square changed names several times — Dumska, Kalinina, Zhovtnevoyi revolutsiyi; now it is called Maydan Nezalezhnosti which translates as Square of Independence). The building at 2 Khreshchatyk, facing Yevropeyska ploshcha Square, was converted after Ukraine’s independence from the Lenin Museum into an art and business center, Ukrayinsky Dim where important political and business meetings are held, as well as large-scale exhibitions. At the other end of Khreshchatyk, at Pinchuk Center, contemporary art is shown at many exhibitions regularly held there. The Ukrayinsky Dim Culture and Business Center
The Independence Monument in the central square of Kyiv
THEATERS, MUSEUMS AND PARKS
Pectoral (breast decoration). 4th cent. A.D. The Museum of Historical treasures
The funicular (cable railway) in the early 20th century
99 The Operetta Theater (53 Velyka Vasylkovska Street)
The Taras Shevchenko Museum (8a Shevchenka provulok)
The Mystetsky Arsenal Art Center The Lilacs Alley in the M. Hryshko Botanical Garden of the National Academy of Sciences of Ukraine
Kyiv offers a lot of sites to see — and a lot of place where you can «chill out». There are many shady parks in Kyiv which provide ample opportunities for rest and relaxation. Culture tourists may spend a relaxing hour in one of the museums, and theater goers are welcome to any of the many theaters in town. There are two botanical gardens in Kyiv. A smaller one is situated right next the Metro Station Universytet. The garden was founded in 1839 near the then recently opened university. The bigger garden (Central Botanical Garden of Kyiv) was opened for the public in 1964.
The International Culture and Arts Center (1 Instytutska Street)
The Museum of Historical treasures (in the territory of the Lavra Monastery)
In the Bohdan and Varvara Khanenko Museum The National Ukrainian Decorative Folk Museum
In the National Literature Museum of Ukraine
Athletes on a parade through Kreshchatyk Street. 1970s.
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a) buskers in Kreshchatyk Street; b)a horse-driven carriage in Kreshchatyk Street for tourists; c) amateur bike stuntman
A badge released to mark the victory of the soccer club Dynamo Kyiv at the UEFA Supercup in 1975
The River Terminal in Kyiv at the Dnipro River
Tourism and sports
Booking and ticket offices can be found in many places of Kyiv, not only at the theaters. Millions of tourists visit Ukraine and Kyiv annually. Kyiv with its long and eventful history, vibrant culture, its picturesque hills and other attractions has a lot of attractions for tourists. Sports are widely practiced in Kyiv too. Soccer, Rugby and handball clubs, track-and field athletes and gymnasts are among those who have won many international and domestic competitions. There are several stadiums in Kyiv, many sports grounds, swimming pools, fitness centers and other facilities which provide a wide spectrum of sports activities to choose from. Kyiv is often referred to as «an eternal city.» Though it is not as old as Rome, but it is old enough to be on a par age-wise with Paris or other old European cities. Kyiv is a living organism, it is not static, it is developing, it is dynamic in its development but at the same time it keeps its core essence intact.
The Palats Sportu Sports Center which is also used as a venue for music concerts and rock gigs
The scale model of the reconstructed Stadium Olimpiysky, the biggest stadium in Kyiv, is being reconstructed to meet the requirements of the European soccer championship Euro-2012 to be held in Kyiv
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New generations are born, they bring with them their youthful vigor, they seek beauty and harmony. It is for them to decide what architectural changes will occur in Kyiv, how it will look in the future. Today’s children, young people, students will determine the destiny Kyiv, the capital of the ancient state of Kyivan Rus, in the years to come. The bicycle stadium at 58 Bohdan Khmelnytsky Street was built in 1913
At Maydan Nezalezhnosty
The colonnade at the entrance to the Dynamo Stadium
Valery Lobanovsky, the legendary Dynamo Kyiv coach (left), and the Dynamo Kyiv soccer squad in the early 1980s
The Dynamo Football Club of Kyiv is well known not only in Ukraine but abroad as well. Dynamo Kyiv’s coach Valery Lobanovsky was a legendary figure who led his club to many a victory, both as a leading player and coach. The club was founded in 1929.
Sail ship race on the Kyiv See