Accursed Mountains - The most scenic Valleys, Villages and Hikes of the Albanian Alps

Accursed Mountains The most scenic valleys, villages and hikes of the Albanian Alps

Discover the highlights of the Accursed Mountains and hike the best trails of Albania and Montenegro. An 9-day cross-border trekking trip that includes the cultural sights of Northern Albania.

Overview The itinerary covers parts of Montenegro and Albania. Visit the vibrant capital Tirana, historic Kruja and charming Shkoder. Walk in five of the most remarkable valleys of the Dinaric Alps: Kelmend, Grbaja, Ropojana, Theth and Valbona and finish your journey with a scenic ferry ride across the Koman Lake.

“Accursed Mountains” Highlights:     

Climb Mt. Arapi (2.217m) – The Matterhorn of Albania experience traditional mountain lifestyle and hospitality in family-run guesthouses Hiking Beyond Borders – cross twice between Albania & Montenegro on foot Three magnificent transfers hikes: Grbaja, Peja & Valbona Pass a tranquil ferry ride on fjord-like Lake Koman

Start/Finish: Tirana, Albania (or alternatively Podgorica) Duration: 9 days Group Size: 6-12 (possibility for private departure starting from one person) Accommodation: simple, clean family-run guesthouses and middle-class city hotels Difficulty: 2/4 + one longer hike, exception optional climb of Mt. Arapi (more details in the FAQ) Walks: 6x | 5 ½ h average walking time - almost all can be shortened/extended Luggage transfers: yes, by horse and car

Tour Facts Services included:       

3x accommodation in comfortable hotels, private rooms with en-suite bathroom 4x accommodation in alpine guest houses, shared facilities and rooms with 3-6 beds full board (meals in restaurants and picnics) English, German, Italian or French speaking guide (inquire for others) all transports within Albania incl. transfers from/to airport, ferry trip and for luggage border crossing permits entrance fees

At your own:   

airfare insurance (compulsory for every participant) tips and personal expenses for drinks or souvenirs

Hikers should bring the following equipment: Hiking boots, gaiters (if hike is in May), light rainwear (90% of rain falls in winter), sun protection (cream, hat, glasses), 20-35 liters backpack, 1.5 liters water gear, towel and swimsuit (optional).

Suitcases are not suitable for transport on horses and only one piece of baggage with maximum weight of 15kg is included.

Visitors are expected to respect the wildlife, leave what they find, dispose of their waste properly and to be considerate with locals.

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Arrival in Albania and Visit of Shkodra Historic capital and gateway to the Alps

Rendezvous at Tirana airport, during the transfer (85km/90min) to the hotel close to Shkoder’s center we gather first impressions and the country is introduced. After check-in and time permitting we can swim in one of the villages at the shores of the Balkans biggest lake, visit the Rozafa Castle to learn about local legends and enjoy fabulous views of the Alps before we return to explore the city center. The cafÊs bust with people that flock for a stroll to the pedestrian area that swells Italian atmosphere and is lined with bourgeoisie town houses, reminder of the cities rich past. We immerse in the buzz of the bazaar or the past of Albania captured on film at the Marubi photo library, can sip an espresso with the locals or meet an artisan before the daylight fades over a traditional dinner on the first eventful day.

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Into the Mountains – Kelmend and the Cemi Canyon Untouched highland villages and summer pastures

14km

925m

350m

6:00h

Eager to reach the mountains we travel by car along the lake’s shore and inside the Cemi Canyon up to the highlands (75km/2:45h). Panoramic views await us at its entrance where the road plunges to the turquoise waters below and small villages lie scattered on the craggy slopes above.

In Tamara we stop for refreshments and shake of any remaining fatigue before the first outing starts. From the edge of the canyon a well-trodden path leads us to the shepherd settlement Jeshnica (1.560m) where we meet local families. It seems that a day after our departure we have entered a different world and traveled back in time. From the huts we continue across blueberry fields to Mt. Greben (1.840m), a majestic viewpoint of the region close to the central massif that we are excited to cross during the next days. On soft slopes and with a wonderful panorama we descend to Lepushe where our host family awaits us for dinner in the family-run guesthouse.

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Grbaja – Sheer Mountains Madness Dramatic entrance to Montenegrin Prokletije

11km

775m

900m

6:00h

The route into Montenegro’s Grbaja Valley is among the most beautiful of the Balkans. We wish farewell to the friendly villagers and head through varied landscape to the blueberry fields and alpine meadows below the ridge that forms the border. Still hidden on the other side remains Karanfil (2.461m), one of the most impressive peaks of the Accursed Mountains and dream of many mountaineers. We climb to the summit of Mt. Taljanka (2.057m) from where its walls seem almost within our reach. Descending on a ridge that plunges into the valley below, the views keep amazing us. We take a last joyful look from Mt. Can (1.863m) before entering the ancient oak forest that takes us to the bottom of the valley where we take up quarters and celebrate our great hike with cold drinks.

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Hiking Beyond Borders in the Accursed Mountains Cross-Border trek with opportunity to climb Mt. Arapi (2.217m)

11km

550m

900m

6:15h (+3h)

On a 4wd vehicle we drive to Vusanje, another village in the Prokletije NP, to visit the Grlja Waterfall or Eye of the Skakavica. The ice-cold little river is born from the snows high up in the mountains and surfaces here as a pupil-shaped spring. The mountain framed Ropojana Valley leads to a lake where we cross back into Albania, a weathered border stone is the only reminder of the once sealed boundaries. Several shepherd huts, some shacks others abandoned military posts, line the scenic trail that take us to the heart of the Alps. The canine tooth of Mt. Arapi (2.217m) is visible from afar, reaching the Peja Pass (1.711m) your guide will decide if the summit can be tackled. The ones that decide to pass the challenging peak, suitable for the experienced only, rest at the pass. The isolated location of the mountain provides breathtaking views. A steep descent on a well-trodden caravan path followed by a short ride take us to the village Theth.

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Theth – In the Heart of the Albanian Alps Kanun & Blood Feud | Grunas Waterfall & Canyon | Blue Eye

9km

100m

375m

3:00h (+3h)

We explore on a walk through the village the vicinity of Theth, visit the iconic church, former Ethnographic Museum and enter the lock-in tower. The “kulla” offered protection for men threatened by blood feud, the perfect place to dive into not too recent history and elaborate on the highland law code called “kanun”, its origins, impact and present day relevance. At the highest waterfall of Albania often a rainbow can be found, below we rest at an archaeological site where stone-aged terraces have been discovered and gaze down the Grunas Canyon, a 50m deep ravine.

A bridle path takes us to Nderlysa where a family invites us for lunch on their farmstead. Join your guide for a walk to the “Blue Eye”, a karst spring where the bravest can take a dip into the icy waters while butterflies swirl around us – truly a hidden oasis, marvel about the bizarre rock formations created by glacial mills or swim. A minibus takes us back to the previous guesthouse.

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The Grand Crossing: Hike from Theth to Valbona On par with the Mountains on Valbona Pass (1811m)

11.75km

1125m

725m

6:30h

Accompanied by mules that carry our load we set out for the transfer hike across Valbona Pass (1.815m) – a highlight of each journey. The initial walk to the higher terraces reveals the village’s full extent when the hamlets lie spread below. The fairy-tale beech forest provides cover from the sun while we gain height, we pause to take a breath and for the views on meadows and near springs. On the pass the surrounding peaks appear on par and sweeping views of both valleys fascinate even the seasoned traveler. Weather permitting we take our lunch break ahead of the descent to Rragam where a vehicle will pick us up for the final leg through the mighty dried up riverbed that leads to the guesthouse. When the daylight fades we watch the alpine glow on the rugged peaks over dinner in the idyllic garden.

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Valbona – Queen of the Mountains Hamlet Kukaj, colorful Meadows and hospitable Shepherds

10.5km

700m

700m

5:00h (+2h)

Refreshed we start our hike to Kukaj, an isolated hamlet where only two families reside. The windy path takes us over lush meadows ablaze with colors of different spring flowers to a shepherds hut on 1.650m. The buildings was used as a military barrack in communist period when this was a nogo area. We admire the wild and romantic jagged mountain scenery, can sample fresh milk products and opt to climb higher to an ancient crossing at the Montenegrin border or to stay and enjoy the views. At above 2.000m a weathered border pyramid remains as a reminder of the isolation Albania once endured, from here views reach to the most dramatic parts of Montenegrin Prokletije. On a similar path we return to the guesthouse, visiting bunkers that protected the border and catching another glimpse at the Alps highest mountain, Jezerca (2.694m).

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Lake Koman, Kruja and Tirana Tranquil Ferry Ride, the old and the new Capital

We rise early for the transfer to the ferry dock in Fierze (43km/90min). The picturesque Koman Reservoir loops similar to a Norwegian fjord through sheer rock walls and is considered another highlight of the Albanian Alps. The ferry stops at several points to pick up locals from remote villages before arriving at the Koman Dam (46km/3h). By car we continue back to the coastal plain and the hilltop town Kruja (120km/2:15h). The castle was national hero Skenderbeg’s capital for his cause against the Ottoman invaders, Enver Hoxha’s daughter designed a museum in honor of his legacy. After lunch and visiting bazaar, castle and a museum we continue to the capital Tirana.

From our centrally located hotel we dive into the turmoil of the vibrant city, admire historic buildings of all periods and explore the “blloku” district which once the living quarters of politburo elite turned now into a chic upmarket neighborhood packed with boutique shops and cafes. The last day showed us yet another, modern and western-aligned side of Albania. Our memorable tour concludes with a dinner, we reflect the past eventful days and you have the opportunity to individually spend time in the night life district afterwards.

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Tirana & Farewell A great Journey in Albania & Montenegro ends

If time permits we may visit after breakfast the National History Museum, Art Gallery or other sights of the city prior to departure. Our multi-faceted then journey ends with a single timed transfer to the airport (25km/30min) where we wish each other farewell.

During the flight you recall the past week of traveling on a multi-faceted and memorable journey through Albania.

Looking for more? Extend your stay by adding days at the beaches of the Riviera, join a tour in Southern Albania or explore the other Balkans nations on a trip to the neighboring Montenegro, Croatia, Kosovo or Macedonia.