SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS Three UNESCO Sites and Two Forgotten Valleys
Overview The two week trip provides a complete image of what Southern Albania holds ready for the intrepid visitor. Two treks, hikes to the highest coastal peak, waterfalls and hidden beaches sum up to eleven walking days that are best enjoyed in spring and autumn. Discover the natural and cultural delights along the Ionian Sea, archaeological sites Apollonia and Butrint, villages of Zagoria, Kurvelesh and the Albanian Riviera as well as towns Gjirokaster, Permet, Berat, Vlore and Saranda. “Riviera and Highlands” Highlights:
mixture of nature and culture, mountains and sea, cities and villages three UNESCO world heritage sites: Ottoman cities and Greek colonies treks in two hidden valleys full of true Albanian hospitality swimming at the Gjipea Beach and in the hot springs of Benja walks in the Llogara National Park Peak, to Mt Qorre and the Karaburun Peninsula
Duration: 14 days Group Size: 6-12 (private departure starting from one person) Accommodation: simple, simple clean guesthouses and family-run or historic hotels Difficulty: 2/4 - rocky terrain, long transfer hike on day 10 can be replaced Walks: 11x | 5:30h average walking time Luggage Transfers: yes, by horse and car
Itinerary Outline 1. Saranda – Gjirokaster: Arrival and sightseeing. Hotel [-/-D] 2. Gjirokaster – Limar: Entering the Zagoria Valley. Guesthouse [B/LP/D] 3. Limar – Hoshteve: Transfer walk through villages. Guesthouse [B/LP/D] 4. Hoshteve - Sheper: Shorter walk via religious sites. Guesthouse [B/LP/D] 5. Sheper – Permet: Crossing of Dhembel Pass to Permet. Hotel [B/LP/D] 6. Permet – Berat: Sopot Waterfall, Benja, transfer to Berat. Hotel [B/LP/D] 7. Berat - Vlore: Berat, visit Apollonia, transfer to Vlora. Hotel [B/L/D] 8. Vlora – Terbac: Crossing St. Georg Pass to Shushica Valley. Guesthouse [B/LP/D] 9. Terbac – Kallarat: Transfer walk through rolling hills. Guesthouse [B/LP/D] 10. Kallarat – Qeparo: Grand crossing of the Coastal Mountains. Hotel [B/LP/D] 11. Qeparo – Llogara: Leisure day, coastal villages, secluded beach, Llogara NP. Hotel [B/LP/D] 12. Llogara – Qorre: Climb of 2nd highest coastal mountain, return. Same hotel [B/LP/D] 13. Llogara – Saranda: Hike Karaburun Peninsula, Porto Palermo, Saranda. Hotel [B/LP/D] 14. Saranda – Departure: UNESCO site Butrint, beaches of Ksamil, departure [B/L/-] Are you looking for more? Extend your stay by adding days at the beaches of the Riviera, join a tour in Northern Albania or explore the other Balkans nations on a trip to neighboring Montenegro, Kosovo or Macedonia.
Map View
Tour Facts Services included:
8x accommodation in simple & boutique hotels, private rooms with en-suite bathroom 5x accommodation in guest houses, shared facilities and rooms with 2-4 beds full board (meals in restaurants and picnics) English, German, Italian, Spanish or French speaking guide (inquire for others) all transports within Albania incl. transfers from/to airport, ferry trip entrance fees at cultural sights
At your own:
airfare insurance (compulsory for every participant) tips and personal expenses for drinks or souvenirs
Hikers should bring the following equipment: Hiking boots, gaiters, rainwear (90% of rain falls in winter), sun protection (cream, hat, glasses), 25 to 35 liters backpack, 1.5 liters water gear, towel and swimsuit (optional). Please note that suitcases are not suitable for transport on horses and only one piece of baggage with maximum weight of 15kg is included. Visitors are expected to respect the wildlife, leave what they find, dispose of their waste properly and to be considerate with locals.
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Welcome to Ismail Kadare’s Albania The Blue Eye, “City of Stone” and its Ottoman Mansion
We suggest the 9am departure from Corfu (runs year around) to leave enough time for a visit of Gjirokaster. After meeting at the ferry port we head inland to the "Blue Eye", a magical icy karst spring in a jungle-like environment. With views of our first trekking area, up and down serpentines, the Muzina Pass is crossed before reaching Gjirokastra (90min). Famed for its fortress like Ottoman mansions, the city is also birthplace of Dictator Enver Hoxha as well as Albania's most influential, Nobel-nominated writer Ismail Kadare. Protected by the status of a museum town, the buildings survived the socialist modernization campaign and are today inscribed in the world heritage list. A maze of narrow cobbled streets and Kadare’s book “Chronicles in Stone” connect the splendid mansion we visit, Enver’s birth house that holds the ethnographic museum and also the castle. Inside captured war materials and an American “spy plane” are lined up and one wing was used as a prison, the views from the iconic clock tower are amazing. You could also explore the town and upper neighborhoods individually. Dinner with local specialties like “qifqi” (riceballs) is served at a small tavern and overnight arranged in a historical buildings of the old town district.
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A Forgotten Place between Gjirokaster and Permet The Zagoria Valley – A Place Where Time Stands Still
11km
750m
425m
5:00h
A transfer through the Dropul Valley takes us into the Kelcyra Gorge shaped by one of Europe’s last wild river and to the village Peshtan (45min). Compared to our previous trek in Shushica, the Zagoria Valley is of astonishing different character, most of it remains covered by forest, out of which to both sides mountains rises. The Dhembeli-Nemercka and Lunxheri-Bureto Range encompass and shield off the valley from the outside world. Only on an ancient caravan route we can reach the highest pass and soon the almost deserted village Kala, where only one family remains. The river below Limar is crossed via one of Ali Pahsa’s impressive Ottoman stone bridges and we can spot remains of cobbled road. The views to Mt Strakavec, remote feeling and vernacular stone architecture of Limar leave a lasting impression. A stroll through the village reveals its whole extent and we can learn more about life here from our hosts. Overnight in the house of the teacher who takes care of the 10 pupils that remain in the village.
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Glory of Days Past, Stone Villages and Shepherds Trails Exploring rural life and natural sights on a transfer hike in Zagoria
14.5km
725m
575m
6:30h
The settlements Southbound are connected only by footpaths we use to reach Hoshteve. Passing several traditional villages we have the chance to experience rural lifestyle, meet the locals and admire the mountain splendor above as well as course of the Zagoria River below. Below the village Doshnica a waterfall can be visited at a geologically interesting fold, depending on the water level we may continue along the river or backtrack to the village. Another Ottoman bridge connects Hoshteve with the neighboring villages Nderan and Zhej. The large meadows near the river are used during winter, in summer flocks are driven up the mountain side. Animal husbandry, bee keeping and the collection of medical herbs have been the only sources of meager income, triggering mass emigration to Greece after the turnaround in 1990. Our hosts lived abroad for 17 years, skype daily with their children in the US and opened a bar upon their return. They’re a good example of the diaspora which returns equipped with new skillsets and money to invest. Noteworthy is also the church of the Holy Apostle in Hoshteve, a fine example of Orthodox heritage.
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Hoshteve to Sheper Leaving Zagoria across the Dhembel Pass (1.450m) for Permet
12.5km
600m
550m
5:00h
A shorter and easier route allows for a relaxed walking day accompanied by views of Mt. Cajupi. The villages Vuthuq, Koncka, Nivan and Sheper are connected by roads and their influence visible on the development of the settlements. Nivan is the center of the commune and remains of military installations and storage depots are visible. Its central square is dedicated to William Tilman, a famed British mountaineer who lived here for a year fighting with the resistance in German-occupied Albania during WW2. Tilman was described as “the 20th Century's last true explorer”. Once more the trail takes us to the river, a monastery and the last of Ali Pasha’s stone bridges. Over meadows Sheper is reached where we overnight in a simple guesthouse of an Aroman / Vllach family, nomadic shepherds who were forcefully settled here during communism. Time can be spend with the family or exploring the village, in particular the neglected museum and buildings on which slogans of Marx and Lenin remain.
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On an Ancient Trade Route to the City of Flowers Leaving Zagoria across the Dhembel Pass (1.450m) for Permet
10km
625m
1250m
6:30h
Over the Dhembel-Nemercke Range we return on a caravan route to the outside world. As the drive around takes locals just as long as the walk across, the challenging crossing is still in use. Marveling about the peaks of Mt. Cajupi Mountain’s across the valley, we climb in a crack uphill to the pastures that serve shepherds, who come from as far as Konispol (the southernmost point of Albania), as their summer quarters. It is not uncommon for the flocks to travel more than 10 days in search of fertile meadows. The alpine valley is bare of vegetation, flanked by steep slopes and the Dhembel Pass (1450m) at its end offers views of the Eastern Highlands, across into Greece and to city Permet far below. The long rocky descent requires attention and leads to Leuse, another beautiful stone village with amazing fresco-covered church, probably the most beautiful in Southern Albania. It is then only a 15min walk to reach the city center and our centrally located hotel. For dinner we taste the city’s famous cuisine, sample wines and raki. There’s also a chance for a private screening of a black and white movie in the aged cinema.
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The Unknown Wonders of Permet Sopot Waterfall, Baths & Village of Benja and Berat
10km
500m
500m
< 5:00h
It is only a 40min drive to the trailhead of the Sopot Waterfall, its location at the base of the 650m Nemercka wall and right under the second highest summit of Southern Albania make it one of the most stunning natural monuments around Permet. Another awaits at the entrance of the Lengarica Canyon, the thermal pools of Benje are said to have a healing effect on many ailments. Soak and relax in the sulfuric waters or explore the river canyon, your guide chooses a suitable walk depending on the time of the year. Later we stroll together to the tiny village Benje where we sample raki and gliko, a sweet local delight made from preserved fruits, at a family home. It will take 3:30h to follow the Vjosa River through the Kelcyra Gorge into the coastal plain and to reach Berat. Along the way we stop to admire the Byzantine Monastery Ardenica and stretch the legs. Beratâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Ottoman old town coined the term â&#x20AC;&#x153;The City of Thousand Windowsâ&#x20AC;?, in the evening we scroll through the illuminated maze of cobblestone streets of the Mangalemi and Gorica Quarter before retiring to our hotel in the historic quarter.
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The Castle of Berat and Adriatic Coastline Bektashi Faith, Roman City Apollonia and Coastal Town Vlora
Inside the mighty fortifications many families remain, their mansions and churches date back to the 18th cent, one hosts the Onufri Museum with a collection of beautiful Orthodox icons. Enthroned on a hill the castle overlooks town and affords sweeping views of Mt. Shpiragu and Tomorri. On top of the 2400m peak a Bektashi Shrine was erected, the liberal Sufi order is popular throughout Southern Albania and we visit the richly ornamented temple called tekke. Lunch in a small tavern and optional tasting at the countryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most renowned winery. Through the coastal plain we continue to Vlora (2h). Before the agricultural revolution of the 60s this was a malaria stricken wetland, most of the lagoons were drained and turned into the fertile farmland the Myzeqe Plain is now known for. Fier boasts not only the largest onshore oilfield of Europe but also the remains of the ancient city Apollonia, the Temple of Agonothetes is a delight and exhibits on display within the museum. Soon we drive past salt pans into the quite Adriatic port in the Bay of Vlore, a savory sea-food dinner awaits us at the family run pension. After the a series of Pyramid schemes failed in 1997, the town played a major role in following unrest but today attracts holiday makers with its sandy beaches and pleasant evening stroll called the â&#x20AC;&#x153;xhiroâ&#x20AC;?.
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Journey into the Highlands of Laberia Entering the Shushica Valley via the St. Gerog Caravan Crossing
12.5km
875m
700m
6:00h
The short drive (45min, 30km) along coves and pebble beaches offers views of Sazan Island and the Karaburun’s spine. The peninsula separates the Adriatic from the Ionian Sea and forms the Street of Otronto, the narrowest passage with Italy. The village Dukat is our starting point and embedded in a small side valley at the foothills of the Llogara Natinalpark. On a forgotten caravan route that connected the Roman harbor with inland colonies, now only used by goat herders, we ascend over meadows and through fir to the St. George Pass (1.132m). After lunch we turn a last time towards the sea before descending into the Shushica Valley and Southern Highlands. Panoramic views of the Ceraunian Range’s (Greek for thunder-split peaks) highest tops accompany the descent on a donkey trail which leads us through ancient oak forest and the deserted village Pirgu to Terbac. In the afternoon you can explore the village and remains of communist buildings. Delicious homemade dinner and overnight in a guesthouse of a shepherd’s family.
9
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History and Culture of the Southern Highlands Transfer hike through rolling hills of the Lower Kurvelesh
14.5km
600m
300m
5:00h
A more relaxed walking day, that can be further shortened, takes you from Terbac along the village floor to Kallarat. Passing the lower neighborhoods we cross inside a canyon the turquoise river and rise again for views of Mt. Kendervices (2121m) further inland. Through orchards and light forest, meeting donkey riders along the way, we approach Vranisht, a village situated at the foot of the highest coastal mountain, Cika (2044m). After a café pause and chatting with the locals we continue on dirt road before entering a narrow path that takes us through the hills. Yesterday’s St. Georg crossing as well as the slopes of Mt. Bogonica are visible from the lass pass above Kallarat. As in most of Laberia’s villages many monuments dedicated to the partisan’s anti-fascist struggle can be found here and the locals still keep books and pictures of former dictator Enver Hoxha. There’s a swimming opportunity near the village where we stay overnight with different families, tasting more of the pastoral community’s cuisine, excellent cheese and other milk products.
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14.75
The Grand Crossing of the Ceraunian Range Panoramic Views from Balcony of the Riviera and Pastoral Life
1250m
850m
7:30h
The longest and most challenging walk of this journey traverses the Coastal Mountains and takes us to the Ionian Sea. From the partisan monument the path leads first to the ruined old village. Burned down by Greek troops at the brink of World War I, it is an eerie site with panoramic views. A long climb, partly in the shade, partly on scree, takes us to a series of flat meadows hidden on the plateau. Two groups of shepherds reside here for half the year, in turns the men take care of the flock, wolfs pose a constant danger to it. Our effort is rewarded reaching the highest point on 1400m above the sea. A place dubbed the Balcony of the Riviera offers a panoramic view from the Greek border and island Corfu over most of the Riviera to coastal town Himara. The ridge walk grants views to often snow-covered Nemercka (2482m), the highland villages, rugged Ceraunian Range and diverse coast line. We descend to the village Pilur and drive few minutes to the laid back sea-side village Qeparo, where we stay in a family-run pension at the beach. Our host is a fisher who, according to the rumors, lost his arm in an accident fishing with dynamite.
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The Villages and Beaches of the Albanian Riviera Stone Houses of Qeparo, Porto Palermo and Beach of Gjipe
5km
150m
150m
2:00h
After the challenging walk we earned ourselves an easy-going day. During the mild morning temperatures we visit the semi-deserted old town of Qeparo, perched on a cliff and overlooking the seemingly endless olive groves. Time seems to stand still in the maze of stone houses and cobbled streets. The nearby Bay of Porto Palermo is the only safe harbor between Saranda and Vlora, used since ancient times by sailors and of such strategical importance that Ali Pasha constructed a castle here and the Soviets submarine pens to access the Mediterranean. In Himare we have coffee at the promenade, take in the flair and buy picnic supplies. We continue a bit by car and after a short 2km walk reach the secluded beach Gjipe. Time to relax, indulge on our picnic, swim in the turquoise waters or explore the narrow 70m high canyon. Pretty villages, citrus groves and olive plantations line the road to the Llogara Pass that is reached after driving from sea level to 1043m in the afternoon. Two overnights in a mountain hotel inside the national park.
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Climbing the Coastâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Highest Summits Walk from Llogara Pass to Mt. Qorre / Kore (2.018m)
8km
600m +400m
600m +400m
4:00h +2:30h
The second highest point of the Riviera is in our reach. From the Llogara pass a well-trodden zig-zag route winds up the mountain side within the pine forest. At viewpoints we overlook the glimmering waters and beaches far below on which Caesar landed in pursuit of Pompej, crossing the same mountain range to catch his opponent. Our first goal is the panoramic Dhjopuri Saddle on 1600m attitude, we will return to this point later, the extension to the peak of Mt. Qorre (2018m) is optional. Rather steeply, not always on a visible path but neither overly exposed the climb continues with stunning views towards Mt. Cika (2045m). The summit towers high above the Ionian See, Southern Highlands and almost the whole area we covered during our trek in Shushica is visible. Return to our hotel and free time. A short stroll to a viewpoint is offered before dinner at another restaurant where we enjoy polyphonic songs. The tradition is part of the intangible cultural heritage of the Laberia Region we traveled in for the last week.
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The Karaburun Peninsula and Vibrant Capital Tirana Hike in the Llogara NP, Ardenica Monastey and City Discovery
11km
625m
425m
4:30h
Our last walk starts just outside the hotel. On a shepherd’s path we hike through the dense forest of the national park to the Deep Pass (1200m), a saddle on the Karaburun Peninsula. The western slopes plunge steeply into the deep blue Ionian Sea and we enjoy panoramic views of Vlore, the coast’s highest summits and yesterday’s route as well as rugged shore of the Albanian Riviera during the walk on the peninsula’s spine. We pause to memorize the views of jagged peaks and turquoise waters before descending on a military road to the Llogara Pass. After a light lunch at the iconic viewpoint we leave for Tirana. To stretch our limbs and admire the Byzantine church we stop at the Ardenica Monastery. In the afternoon we explore the modern metropolitan city that stands in stark contrast to our experience in rural Albania. A city caught between its Eastern heritage and Western influence, looking for a new identity between shiny sky scrapers and Communist monuments. Overnight in a centrally located hotel, last dinner and possibility to join the capital’s famous night life in one of the trendy late night bars of the “Block” district.
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Farewell from Berat and Our New Mediterranean Love A great Journey of Southern Albania ends.
The last day is filled with cultural discovery, in the morning we visit perched on a cliff and overlooking the seemingly endless olive groves Old Qeparo. Time seems to stand still in the maze of stone houses and cobbled streets. The nearby Bay of Porto Palermo is the only safe harbor and used since ancient times by sailors, it was of such strategical importance that Ali Pasha constructed a castle here and the Soviets submarine pens to access the Mediterranean. Past pretty villages, citrus groves and olive plantations we return to Saranda and visit the UNESCO listed archaeological site Butrint. The former Greek colony is surrounded by a lagoon that was recently also declared national park. At the beautiful islands of Ksamil we enjoy the best seafood and beaches the country has to offer before returning to the city where we wish each other farewell. Our multi-faceted journey ends in Saranda in time to catch the 4pm ferry (May to mid-October) to Corfu, it is also worth to stay another night to explore the great restaurant scene and enjoy the vibrant promenade before leaving earlier on the following day.