Albania's Southern Highlands 10-day from Tirana

SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS Three UNESCO Sites and Two Forgotten Valleys

Overview A dense 10-day itinerary of Southern Albania that is best enjoyed in spring and autumn. The tour includes seven diverse walks in two remote valleys as well as to the wonders of Permet. Discover the natural and cultural delights of the Albanian Riviera and two world heritage towns Gjirokaster and Berat.

“Southern Albanian Highlands” Highlights:     

insights into rural lifestyle and experiencing unspoilt hospitality three unique UNESCO world heritage sites two horse-supported treks, three days each mixture of nature and culture, mountains and sea, cities and villages fascinating archaeological sites Apollonia and Butrint

Duration: 10 days Group Size: 6-12 (possibility for private departure starting from one person) Accommodation: simple, simple clean guesthouses and family-run or historic hotels Difficulty: 2/4 - rocky terrain, long transfer hike on day 4 can be replaced Walks: 7x | 5:30h average walking time Luggage Transfers: yes, by horse and car

Overview 1. Airport – Vlora: Durres amphitheater, Apollonia archeological site. Hotel [-/-/D] 2. Vlora – Terbac: Crossing St. Georg Pass to Shushica Valley. Guesthouse [B/LP/D] 3. Terbac – Kallarat: Transfer walk through rollings hills. Guesthouse [B/LP/D] 4. Kallarat – Qeparo: Grand crossing of the Coastal Mountains. Hotel [B/LP/D] 5. Qeparo – Gjirokaster: Albanian Riviera and 2 UNESCO sites. Hotel [B/L/D] 6. Gjirokaster – Limar: Entering the Zagoria Valley. Guesthouse [B/LP/D] 7. Limar – Sheper: Transfer walk through villages. Guesthouse [B/LP/D] 8. Sheper – Permet: Crossing of Dhembel Pass to Permet. Hotel [B/LP/D] 9. Permet – Berat: Benje Springs & Canyon, Ardenica and Berat. Hotel [B/L/D] 10.Berat – Airport: Departure [B/-/-]

Tour Facts Services included:      

5x accommodation in simple & boutique hotels, private rooms with en-suite bathroom 4x accommodation in guest houses, shared facilities and rooms with 2-4 beds full board (meals in restaurants and picnics) English, German, Italian, Spanish or French speaking guide (inquire for others) all transports within Albania incl. transfers from/to airport, ferry trip entrance fees at cultural sights

At your own:   

airfare insurance (compulsory for every participant) tips and personal expenses for drinks or souvenirs

Hikers should bring the following equipment: Hiking boots, gaiters, rainwear (90% of rain falls in winter), sun protection (cream, hat, glasses), 25 to 35 liters backpack, 1.5 liters water gear, towel and swimsuit (optional).

Please note that suitcases are not suitable for transport on horses and only one piece of baggage with maximum weight of 15kg is included.

Visitors are expected to respect the wildlife, leave what they find, dispose of their waste properly and to be considerate with locals.

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Arrival in Southern Albania’s Adriatic Port Vlora The Amphitheater of Durres and Apollonia Archaeological Site

Welcome at the Tirana Airport, to reach the sea-side town of Vlora will take about 3h (150km).

Depending on your arrival time we may stop along the route in Fier and Durres, Albania’s largest harbor and bridgehead of the Via Egnatia that connected Rome with Constantinople. We may stretch our legs on a short walk to visit the large amphitheater and remaining fortifications before we continue into the coastal basin. Before the agricultural revolution of the 60s this was a malaria stricken wetland, most of the lagoons were drained and turned into the fertile farmland the Myzeqe Plain is now known for. Fier boasts not only the largest onshore oilfield of Europe but also the remains of the ancient city Apollonia, the Temple of Agonothetes is a delight and exhibits on display within the museum. Soon we drive past salt pans into the quite Adriatic port in the Bay of Vlore, a savory sea-food dinner awaits us at the family run pension. After the failure of a series of Pyramid scheme in 1997 the town played a major role in following uprise and unrest but today attracts holiday makers with its sandy beaches and pleasant evening stroll called the “xhiro”.

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Journey into the Highlands of Laberia Entering the Shushica Valley via the St. Gerog Caravan Crossing

12.5km

875m

700m

6:00h

The short drive (45min, 30km) along coves and pebble beaches offers views of Sazan Island and the Karaburun’s spine. The peninsula separates the Adriatic from the Ionian Sea and forms the Street of Otronto, the narrowest passage with Italy. The village Dukat is our starting point and embedded in a small side valley at the foothills of the Llogara Natinalpark. On a forgotten caravan route that connected the Roman harbor with inland colonies, now only used by goat herders, we ascend over meadows and through fir to the St. George Pass (1.132m). After lunch we turn a last time towards the sea before descending into the Shushica Valley and Southern Highlands. Panoramic views of the Ceraunian Range’s (Greek for thunder-split peaks) highest tops accompany the descent on a donkey trail which leads us through ancient oak forest and the deserted village Pirgu to Terbac. In the afternoon you can explore the village and remains of communist buildings. Delicious homemade dinner and overnight in a guesthouse of a shepherd’s family.

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History and Culture of the Southern Highlands Transfer hike through rolling hills of the Lower Kurvelesh

14.5km

600m

300m

5:00h

A more relaxed walking day, that can be further shortened, takes you from Terbac along the village floor to Kallarat. Passing the lower neighborhoods we cross inside a canyon the turquoise river and rise again for views of Mt. Kendervices (2121m) further inland. Through orchards and light forest, meeting donkey riders along the way, we approach Vranisht, a village situated at the foot of the highest coastal mountain, Cika (2044m). After a café pause and chatting with the locals we continue on dirt road before entering a narrow path that takes us through the hills. Yesterday’s St. Georg crossing as well as the slopes of Mt. Bogonica are visible from the lass pass above Kallarat.

As in most of Laberia’s villages many monuments dedicated to the partisan’s anti-fascist struggle can be found here and the locals still keep books and pictures of former dictator Enver Hoxha.

There’s a swimming opportunity near the village where we stay overnight with different families, tasting more of the pastoral community’s cuisine, excellent cheese and other milk products.

4

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The Grand Crossing of the Ceraunian Range Panoramic Views from Balcony of the Riviera and Pastoral Life

14.75

1250m

850m

7:30h

The longest and most challenging walk of this journey traverses the Coastal Mountains and takes us to the Ionian Sea. From the partisan monument the path leads first to the ruined old village.

Burned down by Greek troops at the brink of World War I, it is an eerie site with panoramic views.

A long climb, partly in the shade, partly on scree, takes us to a series of flat meadows hidden on the plateau. Two groups of shepherds reside here for half the year, in turns the men take care of the flock, wolfs pose a constant danger to it. Our effort is rewarded reaching the highest point on 1400m above the sea. A place dubbed the Balcony of the Riviera offers a panoramic view from the Greek border and island Corfu over most of the Riviera to coastal town Himara. The ridge walk grants views to often snow-covered Nemercka (2482m), the highland villages, rugged Ceraunian Range and diverse coast line. We descend to the village Pilur and drive few minutes to the laid back sea-side village Qeparo, where we stay in a family-run pension at the beach. Our host is a fisher who, according to the rumors, lost his arm in an accident fishing with dynamite.

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The Albanian Riviera, Greek and Ottoman Heritage Porto Palermo, Butrint, Ksamil Islands, Blue Eye & “City of Stone�

A day of cultural discovery starts with a visit of Porto Palermo, a safe harbor of such strategical importance that Ali Pasha constructed a castle here and the Soviets submarine pens to access the Mediterranean. Past pretty villages, citrus groves and olive plantations we continue to Saranda.

The busy port serves as a hub for Corfu and attracts visitors with its UNESCO listed archaeological site Butrint. The former Greek colony is surrounded by a lagoon that was recently also declared national park. At the beautiful islands of Ksamil we enjoy the best seafood and beaches the country has to offer before heading away from the coast. Bound inland we stop at the "Blue Eye", a magical icy karst spring, before crossing the Muzina Pass and reaching Gjirokastera. The "City of Stone" is famed for its fortress like Ottoman mansions and birthplace of Dictator Enver Hoxha, as well as Albania's most influential Nobel-nominated writer Ismail Kadare. It survived the socialist modernization campaigns due its status as a museum town and is today inscribed in the UNESCO list. We peek in one of the mansions, visit the birth house of Enver and the castle that towers over the city and affords us good views. Dinner & overnight in the old town district, in a boutique hotel.

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A Forgotten Place between Gjirokaster and Permet The Zagoria Valley – A Place Where Time Stands Still

11km

750m

425m

5:00h

A transfer through the Dropul Valley takes us into the Kelcyra Gorge shaped by one of Europe’s last wild river and to the village Peshtan (45min). Compared to our previous trek in Shushica, the Zagoria Valley is of astonishing different character, most of it remains covered by forest, out of which to both sides mountains rises. The Dhembeli-Nemercka and Lunxheri-Bureto Range encompass and shield off the valley from the outside world. Only on an ancient caravan route we can reach the highest pass and soon the almost deserted village Kala, where only one family remains. The river below Limar is crossed via one of Ali Pahsa’s impressive Ottoman stone bridges and we can spot remains of cobbled road. The views to Mt Strakavec, remote feeling and vernacular stone architecture of Limar leave a lasting impression. A stroll through the village reveals its whole extent and we can learn more about life here from our hosts. Overnight in the house of the teacher who takes care of the 10 pupils that remain in the village.

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Glory of Days Past, Stone Villages and Shepherds Trails Exploring rural life and natural sights on a transfer hike in Zagoria

14.5km

725m

575m

6:30h

The settlements Southbound are only connected by footpaths we use to reach Hoshteve. Passing several traditional villages we have the chance to experience rural lifestyle, meet the locals and admire the mountain splendor above as well as course of the Zagoria River below. Nearby the village Doshnica a waterfall can be visited at a geologically interesting fold, depending on the water level we may continue along the river or backtrack to the village. The large meadows near the river are used in winter whereas flocks are taken up the mountain side in summer, another Ottoman bridge connects it the neighboring village. Animal husbandry, bee keeping and the collection of medical herbs have been the only sources of meager income, triggering mass emigration to Greece after the turnaround in 1990. In Hoshteve the church of the Holy Apostle is a true delight and the village bar offers refreshments. A short transfer brings u to Sheper, a larger and more modern village at the trail head of the following day's walk. Overnight in a simple guesthouse of an Aroman / Vllach family, nomadic shepherds who were forcefully settled here during communism.

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On an Ancient Trade Route to the City of Flowers Leaving Zagoria across the Dhembel Pass (1.450m) for Permet

10km

625m

1250m

6:30h

Over the Dhembel-Nemercke Range we return on a caravan route to the outside world. As the drive around takes locals just as long as the walk across, the challenging crossing is still in use.

Marveling about the peaks of Mt. Cajupi Mountain’s across the valley, we climb in a crack uphill to the pastures that serve shepherds, who come from as far as Konispol (the southernmost point of Albania), as their summer quarters. It is not uncommon for the flocks to travel more than 10 days in search of fertile meadows. The alpine valley is bare of vegetation, flanked by steep slopes and the Dhembel Pass (1450m) at its end offers views of the Eastern Highlands, across into Greece and to city Permet far below. The long rocky descent requires attention and leads to Leuse, another beautiful stone village with amazing fresco-covered church, probably the most beautiful in Southern Albania. It is then only a 15min walk to reach the city center and our centrally located hotel. For dinner we taste the city’s famous cuisine, sample wines and raki. There’s also a chance for a private screening of a black and white movie in the aged cinema.

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Picturesque Landscape and the City of Thousand Windows The Baths of Benja, Orthodox Heritage and Ottoman Architecture

6km

300m

300m

~3:00h

It is only a drive 20min to the Lengarica Canyon, a stunning natural monument outside of Permet and best explored on foot. Depending on the season your guide will choose a suitable walk to explore the canyon and thermal pools at the entrance, said to have a healing effect on many ailments. On a walk to the tiny village Benje we admire the mountains we crossed and visit a family home to sample raki and gliko, a sweet local delight made from preserved fruits. After following the Vjosa River to Tepelena and back into coastal plain we stretch our limbs on a stop to admire the Byzantine Ardenica Monastery (2:30h). From the hill the Albanian Olympus, called Tomorri, is already visible and Berat at its foot reached after another hour’s drive. The third world heritage site boast a castle and picturesque Ottoman old town that dubbed its second name “The City of Thousand Windows”. We explore the maze of cobblestone streets and visit the still inhabited castle for sweeping views of the area and sumptuous last dinner at a local tavern, before retiring to our hotel in the historic quarter. Time allowing we visit more sighs before tomorrow’s departure.

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Farewell from Berat and Our New Mediterranean Love A great Journey of Southern Albania ends.

10km

625m

1250m

6:30h

Depending on your departure time there may be the opportunity to visit the Christian Gorica quarter on the other side of the Osum River, richly-decorated Bektashi tekke, a temple of the liberal Sufi sect, collection of most beautiful Orthodox icons in the Onufri church or Ethnographic Museum of Berat.

Our multi-faceted journey ends with a single timed transfer to the airport (120km/2:30h) where we wish each other farewell.

Are you looking for more? Extend your stay by adding days at the beaches of the Riviera, join a tour in Northern Albania or explore the other Balkans nations on a trip to the neighboring Montenegro, Kosovo or Macedonia.