Unknown Alps Europe's Wild East - the Tropoje Highlands Pioneer Journey
This tour suits pioneers who are eager to explore the lesser known, remote parts of the Albanian Alps and those who don't mind the basic circumstances connected with a truely authentic experience. It combines the unknown eastern Alps with classic highlights of Valbona and Theth and cultural insights of the old and new capital in an 9-day itinerary.
Tour Facts Starting in Shkodra the takes you on a scenic ferry ride on Lake Koman into the Alps, visits Tropoja region's off the beaten track pastures Doberdol and Sylbice and travels through the remarkable national parks of the Gashit River, Valbona and Thethi. On our return we explore history in Kruja and get to know the modern site of Albania in the capital Tirana. “Unknown Alps” Highlights:
a tranquil ferry ride on fjord-like Koman Lake authentic experiences staying with the shepherds on high alpine summer pastures magnificent views on scenic hikes in the Gashi, Valbona and Theth National Parks insights into traditional mountain lifestyle and warm hospitality being among the first to explore the Eastern Alps
Duration: 9 days Group Size: 6-12 (possibility for private departure starting from one person) Accommodation: simple shepherd huts, family-run guesthouses and middle-class city hotels Difficulty: 2/4 + one long transfer hike (more details in the FAQ) Walks: 6x | ?h average walking time - few can be shortened/extended Luggage Transfers: yes, by horse and car
Tour Facts Services included:
accommodation as follows 1x family home stay 2x overnights in shepherd huts (no electricity or showers) 3x stays in guest houses 2x accommodation in hotels full board, mostly picnic lunches entrance fees for sights and museums English or German speaking guide (inquire for others) transports within Albania incl. transfers from/to airport, ferry trip and for luggage
At your own:
airfare insurance (compulsory for every participant) tips and personal expenses for drinks or souvenirs
Hikers should bring the following equipment: Hiking boots, gaiters (if hike is in May), rainwear, sun protection (cream, hat, glasses), 25 to 40 liters backpack, 1.5 liters water gear, towel and swimsuit (optional). Please note that suitcases are not suitable for transport on horses and only one piece of baggage with maximum weight of 15kg is included. For the overnight in the huts we recommend a sleeping bag liner (Hüttenschlafsack) Visitors are expected to respect the wildlife, leave what they find, dispose of their waste properly and to be considerate with locals.
1
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Arrival in Albania and Visit of Shkodra Historic Capital and Gateway to the Alps
Rendezvous at Tirana airport, during the transfer (85km/90min) to the hotel close to Shkoder’s center we gather first impressions and the country is introduced. After check-in and time permitting we can swim in one of the villages at the shores of the Balkans biggest lake, visit the Rozafa Castle to learn about its legend and enjoy fabulous views that excite our curiosity for the days of travel through the Albanian Alps. Back in the city the cafés bust with people that flock for a stroll to the pedestrian area that swells Italian atmosphere and is lined with bourgeoisie town houses, reminder of the cities rich past. We immerse ourselves in the buzz of the bazaar or in Albania’s past captured on film at the Marubi photo library. Time to enjoy an espresso with the locals or meet an artisan before the daylight fades during a carefully crafted traditional dinner. We are wishing each other a good night after an eventful first day in Albania and anticipate the coming highlights of our pioneering trip in the unknown parts of the Albanian Alps.
2
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Into the Tropoje Highlands – Europe’s Wild East Tranquil ferry ride, warm up walk and a welcoming home stay
8km
300m
500m
3:30h
We rise early for the transfer through a scenic gorge to the Koman Dam (55km, 1:30h). The picturesque reservoir loops similar to a Norwegian fjord through sheer rock walls and is considered a highlight of the Albanian Alps. The custom made ferry stops at several points to pick up locals from remote villages before arriving at Fierze (46km, 3h). After lunch in Bajram Curri, a city that seems to be haven’t changed since the fall of communism in Albania, we travel by minibus into Tropoje region and walk to the colorful meadows of Padesh. On 1.300m we can peek across the border into Kosovo and enjoy the views of mighty Mt Shkelzen, a holy mountain to the Bektashi who pilgrimage to the peak once a year. On shepherd’s paths we descend past small hamlets, leaving villagers astonished of the sight of foreigners, to a junction where we rejoin the minibus for the short ride to the homestay. Our host family members will accompany us the next day to their huts in the mountains.
3
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Sylbice – The Unknown Mountain Highlands The semi-nomadic life of the shepherds
16km
1525m
50m
7:00h
With our luggage loaded on packhorses we leave from Tropoje and travel through the mighty canyon formed by the sheer walls of the Shkelzen Massif (2404m) and the chine that marks the border with Kosovo. Families of the Gjakova Highlands were separated when the Great Powers delineated Albanian-inhabited territories to Serbia after the First Balkan Wars (1912) and only united again in 1990. Along the river and through idyllic forest we travel on a well-trodden path that connects the summer pastures with the village. When the woods thin out the dramatic ridge that runs up to Kosovo’s highest peak, Mt. Gjeravica (2656m), towers above us. At 1.500m the treeline is reached and we enter the glacial alpine tundra speckled with shepherd’s huts. In one of the so called “stans” we stay overnight with the previous night’s family. We will have to do without electricity and warm shower for the next two days but are compensated with authentic insights in the lifestyle and the hospitality of the highlanders.
4
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Doberdol – Where three borders meet in one point Alpine Tundra, Blueberries and Glacial Lakes
7km
425m
425m
3:30h (+1-4h)
Your guide chooses a suitable hike that will include a selection of the 14 glacial lakes, their mirrorlike surface reflecting the mountainous landscape, or a peak that suits as a panoramic viewpoint of the surroundings. Enough time to swim and nibble from the blueberry fields that provide an additional income to the shepherds when once a week the berries are sold to a Kosovarian company. Arriving at Albania’s first simple mountain hut we are greeted by the caretaker family. The pastures are inhabited after the thaw (usually by end of June), over the three months period of the summer holidays, until mid-September. The afternoon can be spend individually or with an optional climb to the crest of Tromeda/Trekufiri (2366m), a mountain above Doberdol where the borders of Albania, Kosovo and Montenegro meet in one point. We leave a note in the summit register and reflect on Communist period when this was a no-go area.
5
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Gashi River Reserve and Montenegro’s highest Peak On shepherds trails into the Alps most dramatic valley Valbona
17km
250m
1000m
5:30h +1:45h
Leaving the scattered huts behind we turn to Albania’s youngest national park that encompasses the Gashi River. Accompanied by splendid views of the western slopes of the Shkelzen Massif we travel mostly downhill along the valley. Behind the shepherd settlement Balqin we pass for a short period through Montenegrin territory, the deserted border guard post reminds us of the times when Albania was sealed-off from what then used to be Yugoslavia. At this viewpoint the contrast in appearance between the glacial-shaped eastern Alps, composed of volcanic rock, and hyperkarstic, eroded western ranges become apparent. All along the way Montenegro’s highest point, Zla Kolata (2534m), stays visible and after passing through the humid, berry-rich forest also the village Cerem below. A minibus picks us up for the short transfer to our comfortable mountain hotel situated in a small hamlet of the Valbona Valley. We look forward to warm showers.
6
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The Grand Crossing: Hike from Valbona to Theth On par with the Mountains on Valbona Pass (1811m)
11.75km
725m
1125m
6:00h
After a short transfer and again accompanied by mules that carry our load we set out for the transfer hike across Valbona Pass (1815m) – another highlight of our journey. We are now entering the better known part of the Alps and are more likely to encounter other walkers. The trail starts in the village Rragam, few steep segments follow and we pause regularly near springs and on colorful meadows to take a breath and enjoy the splendid views. Reaching the pass the surrounding peaks appear on par and sweeping views of both valleys fascinate even the seasoned traveler. We enjoy the picturesque landscape during a lunch break ahead of the descent to Theth. The fairy-tale beech forest provides cover from the sun in the afternoon. Mt. Arapi (2.217m), the landmark of Theth, becomes visible and soon the upmost houses of the village are reached. On a broad path we arrive at our inviting guesthouse in the center of the village.
7
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Theth – In the Heart of the Albanian Alps Grunas Waterfall & Canyon | Kanun & Blood Feud
9km
375m
100m
3:30h
A walk through the village and the green gardens reveals the full extent of Theth. We visit the iconic church, well-kept fields and dive at the lock-in tower that offered protection for men threatened by blood feud into the history of the “kanun”. It is the perfect place to elaborate on the highland law code of Leke Dukagjini, its origins, impact and present day relevance. Along water channels we reach the plateau of the famed waterfall, sometimes a rainbow appears here. On a cliff above the river archeologists discovered stone-aged terraces, we rest there, enjoy our picnic lunch and gaze into the adjacent 50m deep Grunas Canyon. A well-worn bridle path takes us downstream to Nderlysa where we stay on a farmstead. You can use your free time to sample mulberries, grapes and plums in the garden, harvest corn and milk sheep with the family, learn to cook a typical dish, explore the surroundings or swim.
8
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The Old and the New Capital Scenic Drive, Castle of Skenderbeg and Modern Captial
After breakfast a scenic ride to Shkodra (75k, 3h) takes us past the Edith Durham Memorial, where we joyfully take in the last views of the dramatic mountains, over a panoramic pass road into Boga Valley. Back in town we take refreshments and change cars for Kruja (88km, 90min). National hero Skenderbeg used this castle as his headquarters in the campaign against the Ottoman invaders. After lunch and visiting bazaar, castle and a museum we continue to the capital Tirana (35km, 45min). From our centrally located hotel we dive into the turmoil of the vibrant city, admire historic buildings of all periods and explore the “blloku� district, which once the living quarters of politburo elite, turned now into a chic upmarket neighborhood packed with boutique shops and cafes. The last day of our journey showed us a very different, western image that stands in stark to the rural areas of Albania we explored before. We see rapid change and stark contrasts, they depict the split personality of a country caught between the West and its roots. Our day concludes with a final sumptuous dinner, we recall the past week and celebrate a successful, multi-faceted and memorable journey through Albania. The nightlife district is nearby.
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Tirana & Farewell A great Journey in Albania ends
If time permits we may visit after breakfast the National History Museum, Art Gallery or other sights of the city prior to your departure. Our unique journey, the first of its kind, ends with a single timed transfer to the airport (25km, 30min) where we wish each other farewell and you a safe trip back home. Looking for more? Extend your stay by adding days at the beaches of the Riviera, join a tour in Southern Albania or explore the other Balkans nations on a trip to the neighboring Montenegro, Croatia, Kosovo or Macedonia.