Hidden Valley: Zagoria & Permet Trek (3-7d)

ZAGORIA & PERMET The Hidden Valley and Natural Wonders

The Zagoria Valley is hidden between the high mountain ranges of Gjirokaster and Permet. Ancient caravan routes cross the valley that is still an important pass-through for the semi-nomadic shepherds. Ottoman bridges and the remains of cobbled roads connect villages rich in Byzantine church heritage. Built completely from stone the slate covered dwellings and high dry stone walls give them a special character. The inhabitants are hospital and friendly, of diverse origin and each has a story to tell that will take you back in time.

When? The best time to visit the area is spring or autumn. Early in the year the mountains are still snow-topped, the flora richest and valleys radiate in green, their appearance quickly brings to mind the high altitude valleys of Bhutan. In September the harvest season starts, trees weight heavy with fruit and raki is distilled in the villages, eventually the forest changes color and first snow appears on the mountain tops. The summer time is only suitable for those who don’t mind high temperatures, otherwise a trek in the Albanian Alps is the better option.

Where? (directions trail map) The first walk starts near the Keclyra Canyon and ends in Permet.

The city can be reached with public transport from Tirana (5h), Gjirokastra (>1h) and Korca (4h), most long distance buses run early in the morning. Your guide will usually meet you for last questions the night ahead of your start. You can either travel by public transport or with a private transfer to the trailhead.

Trails and Walks: The path are wide with generally good underground and used by donkeys for transportation between the villages. Short sections can see low scrub and light undergrowth.

Expect daily walking distances from 10 to 15km with elevation differences of 400-750m. A notable exception is the more difficult hike across the Dhembeli Pass (1.450m) in both rocky terrain and with 1.250m descent into Permet. Luggage can be transported from village to village mainly be horse.

Accommodation and Board: The overnights take place in family-run guesthouses that make empty rooms available to their guests. In most cases you will have a private room but share a single bathroom with the family. The families provide dinner on the arrival day, breakfast the next morning as well as a picnic package for the walk. All of our hosts are very different in character which allows for a diverse experience.

Guide: Cimi will be your local guide, with only few words of English but impressive knowledge of the area, fauna and flora, people and customs he will make sure you will safely complete your trek with a large load of memorable experiences.

The trek takes 3 or 4 days and can be combined with more walks around Permet.

Zagoria and Permet Highlights  experience of honest hospitality  horse supported trekking on caravan routes  insights into rural lifestyle and rural stone villages  Ottoman bridges and Orthodox churches  hot sulfuric springs of Benja

Duration: 3-7 days, most popular 5-day trip Season: late March to mid-June, mid-September into November Group Size: 1-10 persons Accommodation: family-run guesthouses Difficulty: 2/4 – one longer hike across the Dhembeli Pass Walks: 10-15km, 400-700m + 1250m descent over the pass Luggage Transfers: yes, mainly by horse and car When booking your trip please let us know if you require:  a transfer from/to Permet  accommodation before/after the trek in Permet or elsewhere  luggage transport for your walk (only soft piece like duffle bags and rucksacks)  are fine with the local guide or prefer a English-speaking tour leader

Tour Facts Itinerary: 1.

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Permet - Limar: Entering the Zagoria Valley, guesthouse [-/-/D] Limar - Hoshteve: Villages, waterfalls and Ottoman Bridges, guesthouse [B/LP/D] Hoshteve - Sheper: Church and Communist heritage, guesthouse [B/LP/D] Sheper - Permet: Crossing of Dhembeli Pass to Permet [B/LP/-]

Services included:  3x overnights in guesthouse, mostly private room, shared bath  1x accommodation in hotel, private ensuite single / double room  “full board” (4x breakfast, 3x picnic, 3x dinner)  local guide and his expenses  transfers according to itinerary  luggage transport by horse and car

Hikers should bring the following equipment: Hiking boots, rainwear (90% of rain falls in winter), sun protection (cream, hat, glasses), 25 to 35 liters daypack, 1.5 liters water gear, towel and swimsuit (optional).

Please note that suitcases are not suitable for transport on horses and only one piece of baggage with maximum weight of 15kg is included.

Visitors are expected to respect the wildlife, leave what they find, dispose of their waste properly and to be considerate with locals.

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A Forgotten Place between Gjirokaster and Permet The Zagoria Valley – A Place Where Time Stands Still

11km

750m

425m

5:00h

A transfer through the Dropul Valley takes us into the Kelcyra Gorge shaped by one of Europe’s last wild river and to the village Peshtan (45min). Compared to our previous trek in Shushica, the Zagoria Valley is of astonishing different character, most of it remains covered by forest, out of which to both sides mountains rises. The Dhembeli-Nemercka and Lunxheri-Bureto Range encompass and shield off the valley from the outside world. Only on an ancient caravan route we can reach the highest pass and soon the almost deserted village Kala, where only one family remains. The river below Limar is crossed via one of Ali Pahsa’s impressive Ottoman stone bridges and we can spot remains of cobbled road. The views to Mt Strakavec, remote feeling and vernacular stone architecture of Limar leave a lasting impression. A stroll through the village reveals its whole extent and we can learn more about life here from our hosts. Overnight in the house of the teacher who takes care of the 10 pupils that remain in the village.

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Glory of Days Past, Stone Villages and Shepherds Trails Exploring rural life and natural sights on a transfer hike in Zagoria

14.5km

725m

575m

6:30h

The settlements Southbound are connected only by footpaths we use to reach Hoshteve. Passing several traditional villages we have the chance to experience rural lifestyle, meet the locals and admire the mountain splendor above as well as course of the Zagoria River below. Below the village Doshnica a waterfall can be visited at a geologically interesting fold, depending on the water level we may continue along the river or backtrack to the village. Another Ottoman bridge connects Hoshteve with the neighboring villages Nderan and Zhej. The large meadows near the river are used during winter, in summer flocks are driven up the mountain side. Animal husbandry, bee keeping and the collection of medical herbs have been the only sources of meager income, triggering mass emigration to Greece after the turnaround in 1990. Our hosts lived abroad for 17 years, skype daily with their children in the US and opened a bar upon their return. They’re a good example of the diaspora which returns equipped with new skillsets and money to invest. Noteworthy is also the church of the Holy Apostle in Hoshteve, a fine example of Orthodox heritage.

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Hoshteve to Sheper Leaving Zagoria across the Dhembel Pass (1.450m) for Permet

12.5km

600m

550m

5:00h

A shorter and easier route allows for a relaxed walking day accompanied by views of Mt. Cajupi.

The villages Vuthuq, Koncka, Nivan and Sheper are connected by roads and their influence visible on the development of the settlements. Nivan is the center of the commune and remains of military installations and storage depots are visible. Its central square is dedicated to William Tilman, a famed British mountaineer who lived here for a year fighting with the resistance in German-occupied Albania during WW2. Tilman was described as “the 20th Century's last true explorer”. Once more the trail takes us to the river, a monastery and the last of Ali Pasha’s stone bridges. Over meadows Sheper is reached where we overnight in a simple guesthouse of an Aroman / Vllach family, nomadic shepherds who were forcefully settled here during communism.

Time can be spend with the family or exploring the village, in particular the neglected museum and buildings on which slogans of Marx and Lenin remain.

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On an Ancient Trade Route to the City of Flowers Leaving Zagoria across the Dhembel Pass (1.450m) for Permet

10km

625m

1250m

6:30h

Over the Dhembel-Nemercke Range we return on a caravan route to the outside world. As the drive around takes locals just as long as the walk across, the challenging crossing is still in use.

Marveling about the peaks of Mt. Cajupi Mountain’s across the valley, we climb in a crack uphill to the pastures that serve shepherds, who come from as far as Konispol (the southernmost point of Albania), as their summer quarters. It is not uncommon for the flocks to travel more than 10 days in search of fertile meadows. The alpine valley is bare of vegetation, flanked by steep slopes and the Dhembel Pass (1450m) at its end offers views of the Eastern Highlands, across into Greece and to city Permet far below. The long rocky descent requires attention and leads to Leuse, another beautiful stone village with amazing fresco-covered church, probably the most beautiful in Southern Albania. It is then only a 15min walk to reach the city center and our centrally located hotel. For dinner we taste the city’s famous cuisine, sample wines and raki. There’s also a chance for a private screening of a black and white movie in the aged cinema.