THE COMMON THREAD

We asked some of our volunteer editors why they felt it is important that the sewing community be as diverse as possible and the reasons they give their time to running Sewcialists:

Representation is about making everyone feel welcome.

As a plus-size sewist, I know what it’s like to be left out and not see yourself represented. My goal at Sewcialists is to make sure that everyone sees themselves represented online, so that they feel welcome to join and can experience all the joys of sewing!

Gillian, Co-founder Sewing for me is an amazing skill to learn, a way to express creativity and also a way to challenge myself to own my identity and my image. This is all helped by feeling like I am welcomed and belong in a community. I wanted to be involved with The Sewcialists because I wanted to help others have that same feeling of belonging.

Sophy, Editor

Many people learn to sew because they are fed up with ready-to-wear not fitting properly, myself included. But when I see a fabric or pattern company only showing their products on one type of body, I have a hard time imagining what my own body would look like in it. It’s such a turn-off that they don’t seem to think I could be their target customer. At Sewcialists, we can be a part of changing the sewing community for the better.

Amanda, Editor

Sewing is a life skill that everyone should be able to access.

We’re all richer for sharing each other’s experience and knowledge! Sewing is a basic life skill, and it’s a path to all sorts of things from body confidence to gender expression to economic independence, depending on the sewist’s needs.

Anne, Lead Copy-Editor

Diversity helps us build a better community.

Everyone needs to be clothed and everyone should know how to make their own clothes as a basic survival skill. In the history of humankind, it is only recently that humans don’t know how to make their own clothes. It’s a skill that can be acquired by almost anyone and be passed from person to person. It is one of the most human of all survival skills next to making food and shelter!

Kate, Editor

Diversity is important for so many reasons, not least of which is that diversity of perspective and thought gives better creative output and end result than a single point of view. This makes diversity critical for sewists as a group. We all need to see ourselves reflected in the sewing community and patterns available to us, as well as finding amazing and unexpected inspiration from people who aren’t just a reflection back of our own circumstance or experience.

Chloe, Scheduler and Editor Diversity fuels my creative process which simply cannot happen in a vacuum. It’s important to ideate and create in an environment rife with a myriad of viewpoints, knowledge and, more importantly, perspectives. I’ve learned so much about sewing just from talking to other sewers that challenge the way I view things.

Jacinta, Editor

As a final thought, we at Sewcialists believe strongly that we need to celebrate each other, because we have this secret superpower which blows our minds every day. Sewcialists lets us do that, without undue expectation or competition — and that’s magical.

PATTERN PLAY

’90 s to the nines

BY MEG HEALY

Add a self-faced draping cowl neckline to a basic knit dress pattern for a fun retro look.

GET 20% OFF THE FEATURED PATTERN AT BURDASTYLE.COM. ENTER COUPON CODE COWL20 AT CHECKOUT.

OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2019 One Shoulder Dress #102 04/2015 (altered)

A MESSAGE FROM MEG, ONLINE EDITOR FOR BURDASTYLE There is something so ’90s about a little tank dress with a cowl neckline. Since the decade is in style for the season, I wanted to show how easy it is to convert your favorite knit dress pattern into one that has a cowl neckline. You can also use this technique to transform a tank pattern into one with a cowl.

Skill Level: Beginner SUPPLIES • Dress pattern intended for stretch or knit fabrics with one bust dart (such as BurdaStyle #102 04/2015)

• Stretch or knit fabric (amount

according to the pattern envelope plus 1⁄3 yard)

ALTER On the front pattern, draw a line from the dart tip to intersect the center front at a 90° angle.

Draw another line perpendicular to center front extending to the middle of the armscye (1). 1

• Thread: all-purpose & stretch (optional; see “Sources”)

• Sewing machine needles: 90/14 ballpoint or stretch & twin (optional)

• Pattern or tracing paper Mark along the shoulder seam 21⁄2" from the shoulder point.

Cut along the line from center front to the to armscye, leaving a small hinge at the armscye line.

• Pen or pencil

• Rulers: curved and straight

• Rotary cutting system

PREPARE If using a digital pattern, print, tile and tape the pattern pieces together.

Measure your bust, waist and hip circumferences to best determine the correct size for the dress. Cut along one of the dart legs, stopping just short of the dart tip. Cut the horizontal line from the center front to just short of the dart tip, leaving a small hinge.

Place pattern paper underneath the pattern and close the dart, opening the slash line from the dart point to center front (2).

Tape the dart line closed and redraw the side seam. Tape the center front opening to the paper underneath. 2

43 5

Spread the armhole slash approximately 3" at the center front. Tape pattern paper underneath the slash.

Using a straight ruler, extend the center front line up from below the dart slash line. Connect a perpendicular line from center front straight to the shoulder marking (3). Fold the pattern along this horizontal line.

Draw a parallel line 4" below the foldline. Using a tracing wheel, trace this horizontal line, the armscye from the line to the shoulder and the shoulder line.

Unfold the pattern and draw over the tracing wheel markings to create a self-facing (4).

If using a BurdaStyle pattern, add seam allowance to all edges. Cut out the dress front pattern.

On the back pattern, measure 2 1⁄2" along the shoulder seam from the shoulder point and mark.

Connect the mark to the center back using a curved ruler to create a curved back neckline as desired (5). If using a BurdaStyle pattern, add seam allowance to all edges. Cut out the dress back pattern.

CUT From the fabric, cut one dress front on the fold and one dress back on the fold.

tip For a more shaped dress, cut two dress backs and fit the center back seam during the construction steps.

From the leftover fabric, cut enough 1 1⁄2" × the width of the fabric strips to finish the armscyes and neckline.

CONSTRUCT Fold one of the strips in half lengthwise with wrong sides together. Pin to the back neckline with right sides together, aligning the long raw edges. Let 1" of the strip hang over the shoulder edges on each side.

Stitch or serge the strip to the back neckline edge, slightly stretching the strip as you sew. Press the strip away from the dress back.

OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2019 At the center back, pin a small dart-like triangle from the folded edge of the strip to the seam; stitch (6).

Align the back shoulder edge with the front shoulder seam with right sides together, making sure not to extend it into the self-facing; pin (7).

Fold the facing shoulder seam down, sandwiching the dress back shoulder seam between the front and the facing shoulder seams; stitch through all three layers. Turn right side out and baste the armhole edges.

Pin the side seams and stitch or serge with right sides together.

Finish the hem of the dress with either a twin needle or stretch thread.

tip To get the effect of a twin needle without using one, sew a second row of stitching with stretch thread.

6 7

Note: There is no need to add seam allowance; the difference will be eased in.

Fold the armhole strips in half lengthwise and pin to the armscye with right sides together. Stitch or serge, slightly stretching the armhole strip. Press away from the dress.

SOURCES Bu rdaS tyle pro v id e d the #102 04/2015 O ne -S ho u ld er D ress p a ttern: bu rda style .com C o a ts & C la rk c a rries E lofle x Thre ad : m akeitco a ts .com .

BY ERYN SHIELDS

Transform a draped cardigan pattern into a dramatic faux-suede coat with custom ties that cinch your waist for a flattering silhouette. Plus, discover how to alter a basic blazer pattern to create a voluminous highlow hem.

fair suede DUSTER

OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2019 Madison Cardigan by Style Sew Me

Skill Level: Beginner

SUPPLIES • Draped-front cardigan pattern

with high-low hem (such as Style Sew Me Madison Cardigan) or a basic blazer pattern with a waistline seam (such as Style Sew Me Nikki Blazer)

• Faux suede fabric (amount

according to pattern envelope)

• All-purpose thread

• Removable fabric marker

ALTER If using a pattern that already has a voluminous high-low hem, such as the featured Madison Cardigan, skip to the “Cut” instructions. Otherwise, follow the instructions below to alter a basic blazer pattern.

Select a blazer pattern with a waistline seam. Cut out the pattern pieces.

Grain line

Before beginning the alterations, pin-fit or make a muslin-fitting sample of the selected pattern.

Make any necessary fit adjustments to the pattern, and then trace a copy on paper, transferring all markings.

Position the lower-back pattern on a large piece of pattern paper; tape to secure. Trace the pattern perimeter. Mark the desired back length on the paper at the center-back edge (1).

Draw a straight line to connect the pattern lower edge and mark. Draw a new lower edge line from the mark to the opposite edge, parallel to the pattern lower edge. True the side edge. Mark the grainline parallel to the center-back edge.

Draw vertical lines from the waistline to the lower edge and parallel to

1 2 the grainline, spaced approximately 11⁄2" apart (2).

Cut along each line from the lower edge up to, but not through, the waistline edge.

Position the pattern over a new large piece of pattern paper, spreading the cut sections evenly; tape to secure (3). The larger the space between the pieces, the more voluminous the skirt.

Repeat to draft the lower-front pattern.

Trace the pattern onto a new piece of paper, transferring the grainline and any pattern markings. Cut out the new lower-front pattern.

Using a hip curve, draw the desired hemline curve on the lower-back pattern to create a high-low hemline. A steep hemline gives a more dramatic sweep (4).

Trace the pattern onto a new piece of paper, transferring the grainline and any pattern markings. Cut out the new lower-back pattern.

Grain line Grain line 3 4

Grain line

Position the lower-back and front pattern on a flat work surface, abutting the side seams. Using a hip curve, continue the hemline curve from the lower-back pattern to the lower-front pattern (5).

Cut the lower-front pattern along the line.

5

Bottom Back

Grain line Front