CARDI OF TWO

Blackwood Cardigan, Helen’s Closet (modified)

Add elegant details to a simple cardigan with playful pattern hacks. Learn to create a voluminous bishop sleeve and master colorblocking for two unique looks.

BY PAULINE BRUCE

ALTER Lengthen the front and back bodice pieces by cutting across the lengthen/ shorten line and spreading it 10". Place a piece of pattern paper under neath and tape in place. True the side, center back and center front lines. 1

BISHOP SLEEVE HACK

Add puffed sleeves and length for a dramatic gray rib-knit cardigan.

Skill Level: Beginner

SUPPLIES • Cardigan pattern (see “Source”)

• Rib knit fabric (amount according to the pattern envelope plus 1⁄2 yard)

• All-purpose thread

• Pattern or tracing paper Add 11⁄2" to the front and back hems.

Trace a copy of the sleeve pattern onto a piece of pattern paper. Draw a horizontal line across the middle (or at the lengthen/shorten line, if there is one) of the pattern. Draw a vertical line down the middle of the sleeve.

Cut along the vertical line from the lower edge to the horizontal line. Cut through the horizontal line from the center to the edge, leaving a small hinge of paper at each edge.

Spread the two bottom sections the desired amount to add fullness (1). The more you spread them, the fuller the sleeve will be.

Place a piece of pattern paper underneath the sleeve piece. Tape the pieces down and true the hem with a curved ruler to create the new sleeve piece (2). 2

Cut the original cuff piece in half lengthwise or use it as-is for a more dramatic cuff.

CUT From the fabric, cut the pattern pieces per the pattern guidesheet, using the altered sleeve, front bodice, back bodice and cuff pieces.

Construct the cardigan according to the pattern guidesheet, stopping before inserting the sleeves.

Stitch the sleeve seams. Continue constructing the cardigan according to the pattern guidesheet, stopping before stitching the hem.

Turn the band so its right side faces the cardigan right side. Turn the hem up 11⁄2" with right sides facing; the hem fold will line up with the band lower edge. Stitch the band and hem together within the seam allowance where the band is stitched to the front (3). Turn the hem toward the wrong side and, using your preferred knit hemming method, hem the cardigan.

Gather the sleeve lower edges and stitch them to the cuff with right sides facing per the pattern guidesheet. 3

COLORBLOCK HACK

Colorblocking is a great way to use up small pieces of fabrics. Combine prints, solids or textures by using simple steps to change up your pattern.

Skill Level: Beginner

SUPPLIES • Cardigan pattern (see “Source”)

• Different colors of fabric in similar weights and types (amounts depending on the alterations)

• All-purpose thread

• Pattern or tracing paper

ALTER Trace each pattern piece, including all markings and the grain lines. Be sure to note any pieces that are placed on the fold, and label all the pattern pieces. Draw lines as desired on the pattern pieces to indicate the line between each block. If creating a colorblock effect that continues from the front to the back of the garment, ensure the line itersects the side seam at the same place on the front and back.

Cut along each line and add seam allowance to each cut edge.

Label all the pattern pieces and draw arrows where the pieces join.

CONSTRUCT Cut the pieces from the fabrics according to the pattern labels.

Stitch the color blocks together to create the original pattern pieces. Topstitch each seam if desired.

Construct the cardigan according to the pattern instructions.

PLAN IT FIRST

Take a little time to plan your colorblocking before you begin altering the pattern. This ensures you’ll be happy with the final result.

Place scraps of fabric over a dressform or yourself to visualize how the colors work together, decide how much of each color to use and gauge how the proportions look with the overall design.

Or use colored pencils and play around with sketches on paper to see how the colors look together and where to put the different shades.

SOURCE H elen ’s C loset c a rries the B la c k woo d Ca rd ig a n p a ttern: helenscloset.c a.

tip When colorblocking, pay close attention to intersections. Machine baste first to secure the seam and check the alignment before stitching.