CAMDEN COAT

Y N N KO V C

an sf a b c tr en ch i n o a n u p a o t h lea t h er acc ents.

tip Select fusible interfacin g that correspon d s to th e coat fabric chosen.

BurdaStyle 10/2018 #107B (modified)

Skill Level: Advanced SUPPLIES • Trench coat pattern (such as BurdaStyle 10/2018 #107B)

• Mediumweight outerwear fabric (amount according to measurements)

• Interfacing & notions (amount according to the pattern envelope)

• 2 yards of lining

• 1 yard of faux leather

• Pair of shoulder pads

• Needles: size 100/16 leather & universal

• All-purpose thread

• Pattern or tracing paper

• Straight ruler

• Removable fabric marker

• PTFE foot

PREPARE Cut out the pattern pieces.

Before beginning the alterations, pin-fit or make a muslin-fitting sample of the selected pattern.

1 Make any necessary fit adjustments to the pattern, and then trace a copy on paper, transferring all markings.

ALTER Determine the desired coat length from your shoulder to hemline; record the measurement. Compare the pattern length to the recorded measurement. Shorten or lengthen the pattern pieces as necessary to achieve the desired length. The featured coat was shortened 6" to achieve a mid-thigh length.

Remove the back vent placket.

Position the front pattern piece on a flat work surface. To draft the collar, draw a curve beginning at the shoulder-seam center and ending approximately at the waistline where the center-front edge begins to curve up toward the neckline. Designate as the princess seam.

Lengthen the center-back collar seam 1⁄2" above the neckline edge. Measure and mark 2 1⁄2" above and 1" beyond the collar point. 2½"

Draw a straight line to connect the new center-back collar point with the new collar point. Draw a straight line from the new collar point to the center-front line at the hemline. Designate as the new front edge.

Extend the princess seam to connect to the new front edge.

To redraft the side seam, draw a curved line from just below the bust dart to the center of the pocketplacement horizontal line. Draw a straight line to connect the line endpoint to the pattern lower edge (1).

Cut the front pattern along the drawn lines. Designate as the upper front and lower front. Discard the excess hem piece, but set aside the remaining piece for the side-front pattern. Place a piece of pattern paper below the bust dart to fill the area; tape to secure.

Position the lower side-front pattern on a flat work surface. Position the remaining piece from

1"

2 3 4

5 6

7

the front pattern with the lower side-front pattern to form a smooth line at the waistline. Align the upper side-front pattern with the previous pieces along the side seams and waistline.

On the right edge of the pattern pieces, draw a straight line to connect the waistline on the upper pattern to the lower-pattern lower edge, making sure the new line doesn’t shorten the waistline and hip circumference. Place a piece of pattern paper below the pattern gaps; tape to secure. True the hemline. Cut along the drawn lines (2).

Draft an angled pocket over the side-front pattern according to the desired measurements, and then draft a pocket flap approximately 2" wide (3).

OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2019 the lower edge. Subtract 2" from the measurement; record as the sleevestrap length. Draw a rectangle 21⁄2"× the sleeve-strap length (4).

Abut the upper front and lower front patterns along the princess seam; trace a copy on new pattern paper, and then cut out. Draw a curved line connecting the shoulder-seam center to the lower edge. Cut along the drawn line; designate as a front facing and front lining pattern (5).

Trace a copy of the back pattern onto a new piece of pattern paper. Draw a curved line parallel to the neckline from the shoulder-seam center point. Cut along the drawn line; designate as the back neckline and back lining pattern (6).

Trace a copy of the pocket flap; designate as the pocket-flap lining.

To create the leather trim patterns, draw a line 1" from and parallel to the upper- and lower-front neckline and center-front edges. Repeat to create the leather trim pattern for the front facing, but end the line near the hipline. Draw a line 1⁄2" from the pocket flap outer edges. Draw the buttonhole placements on the upper front and front facing (7). Cut along all the drawn lines.

Check the pattern pieces against the diagram below.

CUT To determine the coat fabric amount, measure from the upper edge of the back collar extension to the lower edge; record as the coat length. Add together the coat length and sleeve length, plus 4"; record. Double the recorded measurement; record as the coat yardage needed. The featured size 44 coat used three yards of fabric.

From the outerwear fabric, cut two upper fronts, two lower fronts, two side fronts, two backs, two side backs, two upper sleeves, two lower sleeves, two pockets, two pocket flaps, two pocket-flap linings, two front facings and one back facing cut on the fold.

From the lining, cut two front linings, two side fronts, two backs, two side backs, two uppers sleeves, two lower sleeves and two pockets.

From the leather, cut two upper fronts, two lower fronts, two pocket flaps and four sleeve straps.

Fuse interfacing to the upper front, lower front, side front, back neckline, back sleeve opening, back shoulder seam, front facing, back facing, sleeve straps, pocket flaps and all leather pieces following the manufacturer’s instructions.

Transfer all pattern markings.

CONSTRUCT Sew with right sides together.

Stitch the bust darts on each front panel; press.

Install a PTFE foot and leather needle into the machine. Stitch the corresponding leather trim to the upper-front panel, making sure to leave the seams at the buttonhole markings unstitched on the right panel.

Repeat to stitch the corresponding leather trim to each lower-front panel and front facing.

Install a regular presser foot and universal needle into the machine. Stitch each upper-front and lowerfront panel together, making sure the leather trim seams perfectly match. Clip the seam allowances along the curve; press open.

Stitch each side-front panel to the front panel; press open.

Install a PTFE foot and leather needle into the machine. Stitch the corresponding leather trim to each pocket flap; press open. Stitch each pocket-flap lining to the corresponding pocket flap, leaving each upper edge unstitched. Turn each flap right side out; press flat.

Install a regular presser foot and universal needle into the machine. Position one pocket right side up on a flat work surface. Position the corresponding pocket flap right side up over the pocket, aligning the upper edges. Position the pocket lining wrong side up over the pocket and flap; pin. Stitch the upper, side and lower edges, leaving the side-seam edge unstitched. Clip the pocket-flap seam allowance. Turn the pocket right side out; press the edges flat.

Position the pocket over the corresponding front panel, aligning the side seams; pin. Topstitch the pocket a scant 1⁄8" from the side and lower edges; press.

Repeat to construct and attach the remaining pocket to the opposite front panel.

Stitch the collars along the centerback seam; press open. Stitch the side-back panels to the back panels; press open. Stitch the back panels along the center back; press open. Stitch the front and back panels together along the side and shoulder seams; press open. Stitch the collar to the neckline. Clip the seam allowances along the neckline curve; press open.

Construct a bound buttonhole on each sleeve strap. Stitch the two corresponding straps together along the long edges and pointed ends. Turn the strap right side out; press. Topstitch the buttonhole on the upper strap to the hole on the lower strap. Construct the sleeve following to the pattern instructions; press.

Stitch the sleeves to the corresponding coat armscye following the pattern instructions. Attach the shoulder pads.

Construct the lining and facings. Stitch the coat and facing along the front, overlapping the collar edge. Attach the lining following the pattern instructions, or using a bagging technique as desired.

Repeat to construct the remaining sleeve strap.

Position the strap between one upper and lower sleeve along the underarm seam; pin. Stitch the underarm seam; press open. Topstitch the coat to the facing around the buttonholes. Attach the buttons. Press the coat.

SEW NEWS interweave.com/sewing

#150 Hungarian Szur

Sewing patterns for historic and folk clothing from around the world

Classic sewing patterns at www.folkwear.com

MACHINE Embroidery You Can Do It!

Sara Gallegos shows you how with Absolute Beginner Machine Embroidery

In this show, you will gain the skills you need to start machine embroidery and master the basics. Sara will also teach you intermediate techniques to take your projects to the next level, along with tutorials for 10+ projects . With 3 full series, you can find over 70 episode s full of machine embroidery expertise.

SEW TELL Sewing Holiday Gifts

It's fall, friends, and that means it's also time to start sewing holiday gifts. Or not.

ME IN SEPTEMBER: I’M GOING TO MAKE A GIFT I’M GOING TO MAKE A GIFT FOR EVERYONE I LOVE. FOR EVERYONE I LOVE.

ME IN DECEMBER: I LOVE TWO PEOPLE. I LOVE

Our version of a popular sewing meme

In episode three of Sew & Tell, we discussed sewing handmade gifts, and we came to a lot of conclusions. Namely, sewing gifts often involves a bit of stress. Whether you wait until the last minute to tackle a lofty list or plan and sew and plan, it’s hard to avoid getting at least a little burned out.

We’re up against a lot, planning holiday gifts to sew — there’s the gift-giving mehs (when your gift isn’t properly gushed over), the whole issue of sewing for men, the recipients that think handmade gifts are a cheap alternative to real gift giving (they’ve never been to a craft store!).

We hosts can all agree, though (sort of), that sewing holiday gifts can be rewarding. And we have our own ideas about taking the right approach and staying sane during the holiday season.

The SEW & TELL team: Kate, Meg and Amanda

Amanda

I’m 50/50 on sewing gifts. Especially when it comes to kids, handmade gifts can get lost in the hubbub of fancy store-bought gift excitement, though over the years, I’ve learned to rein in my expectations. I do make handmade gifts, but I try to keep things super realistic.

Generally speaking, I’m a big fan of bags for gifts. You can skip any sizing issues and many bag patterns are gender neutral. I particularly love the Maywood TotePack and Woodland Dopp Kit by Klum House, the Desmond Rolltop Backpack by Taylor Tailor and the Stowe Bag by Grainline Studio. A simple tote — no pattern needed — also makes a great teacher gift.

I also really like cardigans, since fitting issues are usually minimal. I’ve sewn the Driftless Cardigan by Grainline Studio and the FarFar Cardigan by Wardrobe by Me (for men), both as gifts. Accessories are another great approach to handmade gifts. Ballcaps, bucket hats, knit beanies and simple infinity scarves out of swishy fabric are top contenders this year.

If the stress starts to get overwhelming, I tend to let projects go or let myself be okay with delivering them shortly after the holidays.

Kate

As I mentioned on the third episode of Sew & Tell, I make homemade gifts for Christmas… but they’re usually not sewn; I make soap instead. The reasoning behind this is that a batch of soap yields multiple bars, but each sewn item has to be made individually.

I tend to be very busy around the holidays — most of my family has their birthdays in December, so that gets added to the typical Christmas-and-end-of-year rush. Because of this, I often don’t have the time to do sew something for one person on my list, much less everyone. That said, it is doable, and I’ve successfully done it a few times. Here are a few tips.

1. Be realistic. If you have a lot of spare time and money for supplies, maybe a complicated handmade gift for everyone you know is reasonable. But if you’re busy like me, you’ll want to take a hard look at the resources you have, including time.

2. Make good choices. If making multiple gifts, it’s easiest if they’re all the same or similar. That way, the basic construction quickly becomes second nature, and you spend less time on each.

3. Personalize an aspect of the project. I have used this technique (and seen it used by others) to great effect. 4. Use your time wisely. Is there a way to combine your work with other things you spend your time on?

5. Start early. Be honest with yourself about how much time you have and how much time each gift will take.

Remember, it’s okay not to sew anything for anyone. Maybe you’re feeling burned out, and you just can’t face the sewing machine. Maybe it just feels easier to buy something instead. Maybe you’re working on something really special for yourself and you don’t want to set it aside. It’s your hobby, and it’s supposed to make you happy. Don’t feel guilty if you don’t to build your gift-giving around your hobby. You should only sew gifts if you want to!

38% of Sew & Tell listeners say they do not sew holiday gifts

Meg

I do like making holiday gifts, and when I do, I like to make it easy on myself by bulk making one item that I give to everyone. One year it was embroidered tea towels (I customized each one a little bit), another year I made faux fur headbands and this year I made pajama pants for everyone. I really like this way of handmade gift giving and producing. It's easier to cut the same thing a bunch of times and then sew it, like an assembly line, instead of thinking of something to make everyone and tackling each project one by one.

Sometimes I do feel as though my handmade gifts are not enough simply because "I sew for my work." I have started to change my own thinking around that stigma because for every person that says "that's okay that you are making your gifts," there are way more people that really appreciate the time and uniqueness of a handmade gift. Because right now, I feel as though my time is more valuable than money. Also, I know the feeling of receiving a handmade gift and I greatly appreciate them.

Some of my favorite patterns to make as gifts are Faux Fur Headband, Eye Mask and Cosmetic Case (all tutorials on BurdaStyle. com), wrapped up and tagged with handmade gift tags.

Are you ready for a video experience designed just for you? A NEW KIND OF STREAMING

Experience our new video service, offering: • Hundreds of sewing tutorials • Hours upon hours of expert instruction • Access right at your fingertips (watch on any device) • Multiple purchase options to fit your needs!