ISSN: 2081-089X
NR 01/2010 (2) 10 zł (incl. 0% VAT)
very soon... I am pleased to present you with another bilingual edition of the “World of the Pharmaceutical Industry” quarterly, describing this year’s numerous industry events taking place in Poland and abroad. “WORLD OF THE COSMETIC INDUSTRY” – reach all cosmetic industry manufacturers in Poland, institutions, organizations and companies related to the industry. The Farmacom publishing house, the editorial office of the “World of the Cosmetic Industry” quarterly and the Honorary Host – Laboratorium Kosmetyczne Dr Irena Eris S.A., cordially invite you to take part in “THE WORLD OF THE COSMETIC INDUSTRY CONGRESS 2010”. This event is organised to be held on 13-14 October 2010 in Warsaw. Representatives of cosmetic manufactures and companies are invited to participate with specialists of the industry in this meeting devoted to the latest trends and technologies employed in cosmetic production. The thematic scope of the Congress programme will include all of the main stages of cosmetic production, from supplies of raw materials to the storage of ready products and their forwarding. WE ARE LOOKING FORWARD TO SEEING YOU AT THE CONGRESS! More information will be soon available on our website http://www.farmacom.com.pl.
Maria Kubsz editor of issue „World Of The Cosmetic Industry”
Programme Board Anna Oborska, PhD – Polish Association of Cosmetics and Home Care Products Producers
Quarterly, published by FARMACOM Wodzisław Śląski 44-300 ul. 26 Marca 31/11 farmacom@farmacom.com.pl www.farmacom.com.pl Editor-in-chief Robert Miller tel./fax +48 32 455 31 61 tel. kom. +48 502 084 101 robert.miller@farmacom.com.pl Subscription and distribution FARMACOM Wodzisław Śląski 44-300 ul. 26 Marca 31/11 tel./fax +48 32 455 31 61 prenumerata@farmacom.com.pl Issue price „ŚPF” – 10 zł Annual subscription price – 35 zł
Ewa Starzyk – Scientific Director at Polish Union of Private Employers of Cosmetics Industry
Payments may be made to the account: ING Bank Śląski O/Wodzisław Śląski 56 1050 1403 1000 0023 2091 8119
Alfa Laval Polska Sp. z o.o. Editor of issue: Maria Kubsz tel./fax 32 456 60 79 tel. kom. 510 40 31 91 maria.kubsz@farmacom.com.pl
Balton Sp. z o.o.
Editors
Laboratorium Ella
Maria Kubsz, Tomasz Butyński,
Mikrolab Laboratorium Mikrobiologiczne
Teresa Kubsz-Miller, tel./fax +48 32 456 60 79 redakcja@farmacom.com.pl DTP : Wiktor Adamiec wiktor.adamiec@farmacom.com.pl Printing: Drukarnia BIMART Number of copies printed: 2 500
The magazine is addressed to process and production engineers, automatic systems specialists, heads of production, control and quality assurance divisions, heads of logistics and procurement divisions and product development divisions at pharmaceutical companies. The magazine is also purchased by organizers of trade fairs, conferences and industry training courses, government offices, ministries, institutes, higher educational institutions offering pharmaceuticalsrelated courses, and design firms. The editors reserve the right to shorten and edit material. The editors are not responsible for the content of advertisements. The use of materials and publication of advertisements produced by the publisher is permitted only with the editors’ consent.
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List of advertisers:
Firma Urliński HSH Chemie Sp. z o.o. Irtech
Noise Creative Agency Pol – Eko Aparatura Sp. J PPU Adara Sp. z o.o. Proteina Wytwórnia Naturalnych Białek Provital Polska Sp. z o.o. RADWAG Wagi Elektroniczne Rebhan – Opakowania Sp. z o.o. Sartech Wyższa Szkoła Zawodowa Kosmetyki i Pielęgnacji Zdrowia PPH Interplast Trade & Consult Ltd. Sp. z o. o.
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contents 18
14
54 6
Natural cosmetics and nanomaterials – innovation and the law
14
Genuine article on counterfeit cosmetics
18
Dermika Producer of the new generation of cosmetics
22
Innovative Natural and Organic Cosmetics
26
Good Manufacturing Practice in the cosmetics industry according to the PN-EN ISO 22716:2009’ standard
29
Natural liposomes an alternative to skin care cosmetics
32
Before you launch a cosmetic product
33
Macelignan a natural active stimulating adipogenesis and its use in cosmetics
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48
34
Beauty Innovations 2010
34
Congress HPCI
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40
35
6
35
Proteins The main carrier and creator of life
40
The “Tree of life” in Morocco
42
Psychological stress & cutaneous disorders what natural cosmetic solution?
48
Cosmetics ingredients that help counter the symptoms of ageing
50
Should parabens be used?
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52
A web portal as the beginning of a product’s lifetime in the Internet
54
Environmental aspects of packaging in the cosmetics market
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6
| production
Natural cosmetics and nanomaterials – innovation and the law Ewa Starzyk The Polish Cosmetics Industry Association
One of the pillars of the development of the cosmetics industry is innovation. New trends, technologies, ingredients and categories of products are accompanied by the introduction of detailed legal regulations in the relevant areas. This results from the need to ensure the safety of consumers and the environment, as well as fair competition, while at the same time upholding the principles of free exchange of goods within the European Union and with third countries. Natural cosmetics and nanomaterials are two very topical issues in the cosmetics industry. They are also two issues where the legal regulations do not correspond to the reality in the marketplace – but for very different reasons.
Natural cosmetics are a segment of the market where the law fails to
Natural cosmetics – innovation and the law
keep pace with innovation. There is not even an official definition of a
The market for natural cosmetics
natural, organic or environment-friendly cosmetic. Nanomaterials as
Natural and organic cosmetics are the most rapidly developing part
used in cosmetic products are an example at the opposite end of the
of the market. According to data from Organic Monitor1 the total value
spectrum. Here the degree of regulation appears incommensurate to
of sales in the EU in 2008 was 1.4 billion euro, up by more than 20%
market applications, and extends significantly beyond the current state
over 2007. According to forecasts for 2009 the value is expected to be
of knowledge and scale of market use. The law contains definitions and
between 1.6 and 1.7 billion euro, which would represent a 13% rise
legal requirements relating to the use of nanomaterials in cosmetics in
over 2008. In 2010 the market for natural and organic cosmetics may
spite of the absence of either a definition or a methodology for evaluating
exceed 2 billion euros. This accounts for around 3% of the total value of
safety.
cosmetics sales in the EU.
This article describes the market for natural and organic cosmetics in the context of current laws and certification regulations, including
The global value of the market for natural and organic cosmetics is estimated at around 10 billion US dollars.
the draft ISO standard: “Natural & Organic Cosmetic Ingredients and Products: Technical Definitions & Criteria.” In the case of nanomaterials an analysis is given, in the context of market data, of the rules introduced
Natural cosmetics – regulations, certificates Historically, the first document in which an attempt was made to
by European Parliament and Council Regulation 2009/1223/EC on
regulate natural cosmetics, or rather to describe then in an official
cosmetic products, and of nanomaterials as regards definition, notifica-
manner, was the guidelines produced by the Committee of Experts on
tion, labelling and safety evaluation. Current draft ISO standards relating
Cosmetic Products of the Council of Europe Public Health Committee2.
to nanomaterials are also identified.
This document, drawn up in 2000, never really appeared in an official
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7
version, although it is available on the Internet and is often cited by
certificates and the differences between the various requirements mean
authors writing about natural cosmetics 3.
that the market lacks transparency. For this reason, in 2009 work was
The Committee of Experts proposed the first official definition of a
completed on two uniform certificates. The first of them – the COSMOS
natural cosmetic: a cosmetic obtained from ingredients of natural origin
Standard4 - is a joint initiative between national certifying organizations:
(vegetable, animal, mineral) obtained by means of physical methods
BDIH (Germany), BIOFORUM (Belgium), COSMEBIO & ECOCERT
(e.g. pressing, extraction, filtration, distillation, drying, etc.), microbiolo-
(France), ICEA (Italy) and the Soil Association (UK). An alternative to
gical or enzymatic methods.
the COSMOS Standard is NaTrue – a certificate developed and awarded
It is interesting to compare the above definition and the complete
by firms producing natural cosmetics (Laverana, Logocos, Primavera,
document with today’s requirements for the most popular certificates
Santaverde, Wala, Weleda). The NaTrue initiative 5 was launched partly in
(e.g. Ecocert, BDIH, COSMOS). There is no prohibition here on the
response to the slow progress of work on the COSMOS Standard, which
use of mineral ingredients (paraffin oil, vaseline), but ingredients are
had been continuing since 2002.
permitted to be obtained using only physical, enzymatic and microbiolo-
According to forecasts by Organic Monitor (November 2009), at
gical methods. These principles seem to be closest to a commonsense
present almost two-thirds of natural and organic cosmetics available on
approach to the concept of a natural cosmetic. The rules applied today by
the market are certified products. In 2009 the value of the market can be
many certifying institutions exclude the use of many natural ingredients
expected to exceed one billion euro. Certificates from the organizations
(such as paraffin), but permit the use of typical chemical processes to
involved in the COSMOS Standard are currently held by 1000 firms
obtain natural components (such as sulphonation and hydrogenation),
and 11000 products. NaTrue certification has a much smaller range –
which from a chemical point of view is not very logical.
according to the organization’s figures it currently covers approximately
The European Union does not yet have legal regulations concerning natural and organic cosmetics. There is also no accepted definition of
380 products. The subject of the regulation of natural cosmetics was not taken up
a natural cosmetic. At the same time the development of the market
during work on European Parliament and Council Regulation 1223/2009
and growing consumer interest in natural cosmetics have provided
on cosmetic products. During the first stage of work on the regulation,
a field of activity for many certifying institutions. The best known
the need was underlined at the Commission to regulate particular claims
marks, also probably the most recognized by consumers, include
made by manufacturers, including the words “natural”, “bio”, “odour-
Ecocert, BDIH, Soil Association and AIAB. However these certificates
less”, “not containing preservatives”. However rules on the use of these
represent services of a commercial nature. Moreover the multiplicity of
were not included in the final version of the regulation.
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8 | production Natural cosmetics – current technical work at international level In 2009 the ISO Technical Committee for Cosmetics (TC 217 Cosmetics) started working on a draft ISO standard relating to natural and organic cosmetics. The starting point for work on the draft standard will probably be the COLIPA document “Natural & Organic Cosmetic Ingredients and Products: Technical Definitions & Criteria.” Later, all member states of the ISO TC 217 committee will play a part in developing the standard. The standard will contain basic definitions and criteria for terms such as natural ingredient, ingredient of natural origin, organic ingredient, ingredient of organic origin, natural cosmetic and organic cosmetic. The standard will probably also cover the composition and properties of the product, the origin and processing of ingredients, environmental aspects (sustainable development, environmentfriendly processes, application of “green chemical” principles where possible), packaging, selected aspects of GMP (e.g. washing, cross-contamination), and animal testing of ingredients. However the standard will certainly not cover product safety and communication (including marketing claims), as these matters are regulated by law in a horizontal manner for all cosmetic products, natural and organic ones included. The basic goal of the construction of an ISO standard relating to natural and organic cosmetics is to give a uniform meaning to claims using the words “natural” and “organic” in relation to cosmetic products, in a way which is transparent to consumers and manufacturers, and thus ensure fair competition in EU markets. It should also be noted that the standard is an example of self-regulation – a set of freely applied principles. The industry’s attention to the transparency of the market and maintenance of fair competition in relation to the production of natural cosmetics may prevent the introduction of binding legal regulations imposed from above, which would not necessarily favour innovation. Work on a draft standard normally lasts two or three years, and so the document can be expected to be ready around 2012. The effect of regulations on innovation and the functioning of the market In the case of natural cosmetics it is hard to talk of the effect of regulation on innovation, because as yet there is no regulation. The standard is a document which will be applied on a voluntary basis. No limitation of innovativeness can be expected as a result of its creation. The most “regulatory” of the possible scenarios would be where the ISO standard for natural cosmetics was adopted as a CEN standard, and then became a standard harmonized with the cosmetics regulation 2009/1223/EC. However even in this case it is hard to foresee any negative impact on innovation, because harmonized standards are applied voluntarily.
Nanomaterials The situation as regards regulation of the use of nanomaterials in cosmetics is quite different. The public debate which heated up during
Of course it is not the aim of the ISO project to restrict the use of the cer-
work on the draft European Parliament and Council Regulation on cosmetic
tificates already existing in the marketplace (COSMOS, NaTrue, etc.), which
products appears incommensurate to the state of knowledge on the subject
already have many years of tradition and are recognized by consumers.
of nanomaterials and the current scale of their use by the cosmetics industry.
The current state of the law and planned technical and legislative steps do
The newly introduced legal regulations may in the future limit innovation in
not therefore pose a risk to the further development of the industry or the use
the cosmetics industry as regards the use of new nanomaterials and new
of new solutions in the natural and organic cosmetics segment.
applications of the nanomaterials already in use.
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production | 9 The nanomaterials market The data available on the value of the market for nanomaterials is
to Article 13 of the Regulation, before placing a cosmetic product on the market, the responsible person must submit the following information to
sparse, contradictory and hard to evaluate. For example, according to
the Commission in addition to the standard range of data:
estimates by Freedoniagroup6, the world nanomaterials market in 2007
• the presence of substances in the form of nanomaterials and:
was worth around one billion US dollars, of which 58% was accounted
– their identification including the chemical name (IUPAC) and other
for by uses in electronics, and 14% by medical uses. The world market
descriptors as specified in point 2 of the preamble to Annexes II to
for nanomaterials is forecast to reach 4.2 billion US dollars in 2011. According to estimates by another research firm, Lux Research7, the
VI of the Regulation;
– the reasonably foreseeable exposure conditions.
nanomaterials market can be expected to reach a value of 3.6 billion dollars in 2010.
This kind of requirement will not be a significant burden, as the data
However some sources give completely different values. According to information published in Nanotoday magazine8 the value of the
listed are part of the product documentation. However, the regulation also introduces additional requirements
nanomaterials market in 2008 in the United States alone is estimated at
relating to notification which will be hard to implement and may lead to
14 billion dollars.
the limitation of innovation in the field of nanomaterial applications in
Regardless of the actual value of the world market for nanomaterials, the use of this class of ingredients in cosmetics products is still limited.
cosmetics. According to Article 16, apart from the data listed above, six months
Only a few types of nanomaterials are currently used widely in cosme-
before the product is placed on the market, the responsible person must
tics: titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, silica, silver, aluminium oxide and
notify to the European Commission at least the following information:
solid nanocarriers. Other nanomaterials, fullerene C60, nanocarriers,
• the identification of the nanomaterial including its chemical name
nanosomes, nanoemulsions. In the opinion of the Scientific Committee for Consumer Products, as published in 2006: “It is unclear which other types of nanomaterials are currently present in cosmetic products.” Difficulties in evaluating the value of the market result partly from the ab-
(IUPAC) and other descriptors as specified in point 2 of the Preamble to Annexes II to VI; • the specification of the nanomaterial including size of particles, physical and chemical properties;
sence of a uniform and internationally agreed definition of nanomaterials.
• an estimate of the quantity of nanomaterial contained in cosmetic
Legal regulations relating to nanomaterials in cosmetics
• the toxicological profile of the nanomaterial;
products intended to be placed on the market per year; In European Parliament and Council Regulation 2009/1223/EC on cosmetic products, published in December 2009, a number of rules were introduced relating to applications and safety evaluation of nanomate-
• the safety data of the nanomaterial relating to the category of cosmetic product, as used in such products; • the reasonably foreseeable exposure conditions.
rials and the administrative actions to be performed prior to bringing a cosmetic containing nanomaterials onto the market. A definition of nanomaterial was also adopted: “nanomaterial” means
Out of the data required, it may be hard to obtain a precise specification of the nanomaterial and the toxicological profile. At present there are
an insoluble or biopersistant and intentionally manufactured material
no specific methodologies for the evaluation of nanomaterials, either in
with one or more external dimensions, or an internal structure, on the
terms of physical properties (e.g. granularity) or toxicological properties
scale from 1 to 100 nm. According to this definition a sheet of paper me-
and risk assessment. It is therefore not clear how the safety data will be
asuring 2 m x 2 m and 50 nm thick is a nanomaterial. From the technical
evaluated by the European Commission. Will it be sufficient to evaluate
standpoint this is absurd, and it was obviously not the legislators’ aim to
nanomaterials using conventional methods until such time as dedicated
make such a classification. The reason for the imprecision is the lack of a
methods for nanomaterials are worked out?
single scientifically agreed definition of nanomaterial. Various authorities
However from the perspective of a manufacturer who intends to bring
and research institutions apply different definitions of the term. It is most
a product onto the market, the most controversial items are the need for
often assumed that the maximum size of particles of a nanomaterial is
notification six months in advance, and the procedure after notification.
100 nm, and that a particle should have at least one dimension in this
According to Article 16:
range. However, as the example of the sheet of paper shows, such a
• In the event that the Commission has concerns regarding the safety
definition is not precise. Naturally the European Commission is expected
of a nanomaterial, the Commission shall, without delay, request the
to apply a definition of nanomaterials in line with scientific and technical
SCCS to give its opinion on the safety of such nanomaterial for use
development and the progress of knowledge about nanomaterials.
in the relevant categories of cosmetic products and on the reasonably
Nonetheless, is it justified to enact a legally binding definition which was
foreseeable exposure conditions. The Commission shall make this
imperfect even at the time when the regulation was being drawn up?
information public.
Regulation 2009/1223/EC introduces a number of obligations relating to the bringing of cosmetics containing nanomaterials onto the market. For such products it will be required to make significantly more extensive notification than for conventional products. According
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• The SCCS shall deliver its opinion within six months of the Commission’s request. • Where the SCCS finds that any necessary data is lacking, the Commission shall request the responsible person to provide such
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10 | production data within an explicitly stated reasonable time, which shall not be extended. • The SCCS shall deliver its final opinion within six months of submission of additional data. The opinion of the SCCS shall be made publicly available. Considering the possible need to carry out additional tests depending on the SCCS opinion, the waiting time for a Commission decision may extend to as much as a year and a half (assuming 6 months for the SCCS opinion, 6 months to gather additional data and 6 months for the final SCCS opinion). It is doubtful whether any manufacturer would accept such a long waiting time and the possible risk of having to withdraw an already marketed product in the case of a negative opinion from the Committee. Considering the lack of research methodologies dedicated to nanomaterials, and the fact the much toxicological data is not available even for conventional substances, the risk is significant. The situation might be made somewhat easier by the fact that the additional notification requirements do not apply to products containing nanomaterials used as colourings, radiation protectors or preservatives, whose use is regulated through a positive list system. According to this exclusion the most commonly used nanomaterial in cosmetics – titanium dioxide – would not come under the terms of Article 16. However even here the matter is not a simple one: at present the list system covers only the conventional forms of substances. In the preamble to Annexes III–VI it is clearly indicated that the substances listed those annexes do not include nanomaterials unless explicitly stated. At present none of the substances appearing on the lists is regulated for the two forms: conventional and nano. Additional requirements for nanomaterials are also laid down in relation to evaluation of the safety of cosmetic products. According to Annex 1 (Cosmetic Product Safety Report), in analysis of the toxicological properties of ingredients, special attention must be paid to the possible effect of the size of particles, including nanomaterials, on the safety of the used substance. This is naturally justified by the fact that some nanomaterials may have different properties than the conventional materials. However, in the absence of specific methodologies for evaluating nanomaterials, it is also not clear in what way this clause will be implemented and enforced by the supervisory institutions. Regulation 2009/1223/EC also introduces a number of rules on the provision of information to consumers about the nanomaterials contained in cosmetics products. Most importantly, in accordance with Article 19, which relates to the labelling of all ingredients used in a cosmetic in the form of nanomaterials, these are to be clearly indicated in the list of ingredients by the addition of the suffix “nano” in brackets after the name of the ingredient. Moreover, according to Article 16: “By 11 January 2014, the Commission shall make available a catalogue of all nanomaterials used in cosmetic products placed on the market, including those used as colorants, UV-filters and preservatives in a separate section, indicating the categories of cosmetic products and the reasonably foreseeable exposure conditions. This catalogue shall be regularly updated thereafter and be made publicly available.”
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production | 11
It seems that rules of this type, if not backed up with reliable
The SCENIHR opinion seems to be a voice of reason among the
consumer education, may cause a false perception of the risk associated
many available reports relating to the safety of nanomaterials, which
with the use of nanomaterials. They may also be used inappropriately by
are often published by organizations which are more campaigning than
“anti-nano” campaigning organizations. If these materials are distingu-
scientific. It is unfortunate that it appeared only just before the Parlia-
ished among all groups of substances used as cosmetics ingredients,
ment voted on the amendments to the cosmetics regulation. Perhaps if
this suggests that they are exceptional in some way, including in terms
it had been published earlier, and had there been more time for debate,
of safety and risk.
some of the rules on nanomaterials introduced in regulation 2009/1223/EC
The quality of the public debate on nanomaterial safety has so far, in
might have been modified.
terms of substance, been fairly low. Of the available reports concerning the “potential harmfulness” of nanomaterials, most have tended to be published by campaigning organizations rather than by scientific ones,
Nanomaterials – technical work at international level The ISO technical committee TC 229 Nanotechnologies is deve-
and so there has been little contribution to them from experts in fields
loping around 40 draft standards relating to terminology, definition
such as chemistry or toxicology.
and testing methods for nanoparticles, including for measurement
A usual basic argument used by consumer organizations in the debate about labelling of nanomaterials is the need to give the consumer a free choice. This is clearly a legitimate argument:
of dimensions and for evaluation of the toxicity and risk of use of nanomaterials. The ISO technical committee TC 217 Cosmetics has signed an un-
free choice is an inalienable right of every consumer. But what
derstanding with the nanotechnologies committee relating to monitoring
does the slogan “free choice” mean in the case of nanomaterials?
of those draft ISO standards which may apply to the cosmetics industry.
As a chemist who has been observing the debate on the safety of
Considering the rules introduced by Regulation 2009/ 1223/EC, such technical
nanomaterials for a long time, I am unconvinced that any significant
documents may in the future come to have great importance in the
percentage of consumers with average awareness have sufficient
implementation of legal requirements relating to the creation of dossiers
knowledge to understand what it means to choose between cosme-
and evaluation of the safety of cosmetics containing nanomaterials.
tics “with nano or without”. After all, this is not a choice between cosmetics which are “less or more safe”. An analysis carried out by the European Commission 9 in 2001 showed that consumers did not
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understand the term “nanotechnology”. Could things be any worse in terms of legislation? During work on the draft regulation, particularly at the final stage, proposals were put forward in the European Parliament10 whose implementation would be unrealistic in practice. These involved creating a positive list of nanomaterials permitted to be used in cosmetics, developing methods for the evaluation of nanomaterials by the SCCS, and evaluation and authorization by the SCCS of the safety of every product containing nanomaterial before it is placed on the market. The current SCENIHR position on nanomaterial risk
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tions) in this matter. The Committee’s opinion states that the evaluation Trade name Nazwa INCI Nazwa handlowa Nazwa handlowa Soluble Colagen Rozpuszczalny kolagen Soluble Collagen Rozpuszczalny kolagen basis, but there are no reasons to treat nanomaterials as generally more Rozpuszczalny kolagen Rozpuszczalny kolagen Soluble Collagen, Rozpuszczalny kolagen Soluble with Elastin toxic than materials: “(...) the hypothesis that smaller kolagen zconventional elastyną HydrolyzedRozpuszczalny Elastin zColagen elastyną z elastyną Elastyna Hydrolyzed Elastin Elastyna means more reactive, and thus more toxic, cannot be substantiated by Elastin Elastyna Hydrolizat keratyny Hydrolyzed Keratin Hydrolizat keratyny Hydrolyzed Keratin the published data. In this respect nanomaterials are similar to normal Hydrolizat keratyny Rozpuszczalne Rozpuszczalne Hydrolyzed Soluble Silk Silk Protein Rozpuszczalne białko jedwabiu białko jedwabiu chemicals/substances in that some may be toxic and some may not. As białko jedwabiu Silk Powder Jedwab w proszku Silk Jedwab w proszku there is not yet a generally applicable paradigm for nanomaterial hazard Jedwab w proszku Nazwa handlowa
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INCI name Nazwa INCI CAS CAS Nazwa INCI CAS Soluble Collagen 9007-34-5 Soluble 9007-34-5 Collagen 9007-34-5 Soluble Collagen 9007-34-5 Soluble 9007-34-5; Collagen, 9007-34-5; Soluble Collagen, 9007-34-5; Soluble Collagen, 9007-34-5; Hydrolyzed 91080-18-1 Elastin 91080-18-1 Hydrolyzed Elastin 91080-18-1 Hydrolyzed Elastin 91080-18-1 Hydrolyzed 91-080-18-1 Elastin 91-080-18-1 Hydrolyzed Elastin 91080-18-1 Hydrolyzed Elastin 91-080-18-1 Hydrolyzed 69430-36-0 Keratin 69430-36-0 Hydrolyzed Keratin 69430-36-0 Hydrolyzed Keratin 69430-36-0 Hydrolyzed 96690-41-4 Silk 96690-41-4 Hydrolyzed Silk 96690-41-4 Hydrolyzed Silk 96690-41-4 Silk 91079-16-2 91079-16-2 Silk 91079-16-2 Silk 91079-16-2
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12 | production Among the drafts being prepared by ISO TC 229, so far 15 docu-
In summary Natural cosmetics and nanomaterials are two “hot topics” in the
ments have been identified as potentially useful for application in the
cosmetics industry. In both cases the legal measures in place are
cosmetics industry:
Draft ISO standards with possible application in the cosmetics industry ISO/CD 10801 Nanotechnologies -- Generation of nanoparticles for inhalation toxicity testing ISO/CD 10808 Nanotechnologies -- Monitoring nanoparticles in inhalation exposure chambers for inhalation toxicity testing ISO/AWI TR 11808 Nanotechnologies -- Guidance on nanoparticle measurement methods and their limitations ISO/AWI TS 11937-1 Nanotechnologies -- Nano-titanium dioxide -- Part 1: Characteristics and measurement methods ISO/AWI TR 13014 Nanotechnologies - Guidance on physico-chemical characterization of engineered nanoscale materials for toxicologic assessment ISO/AWI TR 13121 Nanotechnologies - Nanomaterial Risk Evaluation Framework ISO/WD TR 12802 Nanotechnologies - Terminology and nomenclature – Framework ISO/AWI TS 12805 Nanomaterials - Guidance on specifying nanomaterials ISO/WD TS 11751 Terminology and definitions for carbon nanomaterials ISO/NP TS 11937-2 Nanotechnologies -- Nano-titanium dioxide -- Part 2: Specifications in selected ISO/AWI 12025 Nanomaterials -- General framework for determining nanoparticle content in nanomaterials by generation of aerosols ISO/AWI TS 12144 Nanotechnologies -- Core terms -- Terminology and definitions ISO/AWI TS 12843 Nanotechnologies - Terminology for medical, health and personal care applications ISO/AWI TS 12921 Nanotechnologies - Terminology and definitions for nanostructured materials ISO/AWI 13013 Nanotechnologies -- Terminology for nanoscale measurement and instrumentation The future of nanomaterials in the cosmetics industry As has already been stated, over-regulation in the field of nanoma-
inappropriate given the state of knowledge and current development of the market. In the case of natural cosmetics the regulations fail to keep up with
terial applications in cosmetics may lead to a false perception of risk by consumers. There is a certain danger that uses of nanomaterials in
the situation on the ground, although current technical and legislative
cosmetics will be restricted for reasons of no scientific substance, and
drafts do not pose a risk to the further expansion of the sector. An impor-
that innovation in that field will be held back.
tant driving force for that sector is consumers’ favourable perception of
However, is that risk so significant that nanomaterials might become
natural cosmetics, as “biocompatible” and often even “more safe”. In the case of nanomaterials used in cosmetics it would seem that
the new GMO? Can we expect to see the creation of a “nanotechnology-
the new legal regulations are excessive relative to the current range of
free” product segment? Psychometric research shows that the quality of the research and
applications and also the state of knowledge. Taking into account the
opinions of academic institutions, the legal measures taken by legislative
public perception of this class of cosmetics ingredients, there would
bodies and public perceptions are closely connected with each other,
seem to be a significant risk of holding back innovation and further
and this phenomenon applies to nanotechnology as well , , . Mistakes
development in this segment.
12 13 14
in the methods of testing used by research centres may lead to a false picture of the risk and a negative perception of the issue on the part of consumers. It is essential to pay attention to the reliability and transparency of testing methods and to use appropriate methods of evaluation when assessing the risk associated with new technologies. In the creation of a coherent picture of a new technology, the role of legislative bodies is also important, in particular ensuring a high standard of public debate and taking legislative measures which accord with the state of scientific knowledge. Inappropriate legal measures can increase consumers’ lack of confidence in a technology even if there is no scientific justification for this. It would therefore seem particularly important to ensure a transparent evaluation of the properties and risks of use of nanomaterials. One of the possibilities is to apply future ISO standards to evaluation of risk associated with nanomaterials. This may make it easier to implement the requirements of Regulation 1223/2009 and at the same time increase the trust which consumers and legislative institutions have towards uses of new innovative nanomaterials.
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1
The European Market for NATURAL COSMETICS (2009 Edition), http://www.organicmonitor.com/100260.htm 2 NATURAL COSMETIC PRODUCTS, Committee of Experts on Cosmetic Products http://www.coe.int/t/e/social_cohesion/soc-sp/natcosE.pdf 3 M. Siekierski, Certification of Natural Cosmetics in 2009; Unified COSMOS Standards and NaTrue Requirements, SOEFW Journal (Polish Edition) Vol. 2, 2-2009, 23-31 4 http://www.cosmos-standard.org/ 5 http://www.natrue-label.com/ 6 http://www.freedoniagroup.com/World-Nanomaterials.html 7 http://www.nanowerk.com/spotlight/spotid=1792.php 8 Wakefield G. Nanomaterials: costs and opportunities, Nanotoday, 3-4 (2008) 48 9 European Commission, Eurobarometer Survey on Europeans, Science and Technology, Brussels, 2001 10 http://www.europarl.europa.eu/oeil/file.jsp?id=5598862 11 http://ec.europa.eu/health/archive/ph_risk/committees/04_ scenihr/docs/scenihr_o_023.pdf 12 Siegrist M., Keller C., Kastenholz H., Frey S., Wiek A., Laypeople’s and Experts’ Perception of Nanotechnology Hazards, Risk Analysis, 2007, 27, 59–69 13 Gaskell, G., Ten Eyck, T., Jackson, J., & Veltri, G., Public attitudes to nanotechnology in Europe and the United States. Nature Materials, 2004, 3, 496.
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Genuine article
on counterfeit cosmetics Ms. Maria Jurek, Ms. Anna Szajna Lawyers, Patpol – European and Polish Patent and Trade Mark Attorneys
Counterfeiting cosmetics is a relatively recent phenomenon, however it has already earned a bad name of “the crime of the 21st century.” The question has frequently been asked why this so-called “crime without casualties” is so harmful. In order to find the answer to the above question, one should look at several aspects of the problem, namely: economic, socioeconomic and health-related, with focus on potential health hazards of using such counterfeit cosmetics.
For many years, famous fashion designers, who also manufacture
offered for sale. On the other hand, laboratory tests of counterfeit
cosmetics, and large cosmetic concerns have been the victims of coun-
cosmetics have shown that their components are of poor quality, or even
terfeiting cosmetic products. One should be aware that counterfeit goods
contain the substances the use of which in cosmetic products is not
inflict serious financial damages on state budget through development
allowed basing on the relevant regulations. What is more, counterfeit
of black economy, causing decrease in sales of original products and
cosmetics are frequently made in places which fail to comply with basic
lowering the turnover of companies authorized to manufacture cosme-
sanitary-hygienic standards and are not subject to any procedures to
tics, which in turn triggers reduction of employment.
guarantee and control quality.
A lot of customers do not realize that buying counterfeit cosmetics
One should also be aware that purchasing or unintentional use of
may be connected with supporting organized crime, terrorist organi-
counterfeit cosmetics results in the weakening of a given brand and
zations or the process of money laundering. According to data from a
undermines customers’ trust to the manufacturer and his products. It
non-governmental organization – the International Anti-Counterfeiting
is worth saying that a trademark, also known as a brand, is frequently
Coalition (IACC) that combats counterfeit and pirated goods, there exists
one of the company’s most valuable assets. In many cases the value
a close relationship between the market of counterfeit goods and terrorist
of trademarks belonging to the most renowned cosmetic concerns has
organizations.
been assessed in millions of dollars. The growth of trademark value
Apart from the above mentioned impacts of counterfeiting cosmetics
is undoubtedly owed to the increasing business role of trademarks in
on customers and state economies of many countries, perceived by
turnover, as they frequently constitute the most valuable non-material
many as abstract or distant, there are hidden dangers of purchasing
component of an enterprise. Cosmetics sold under certain trademarks
such products which may affect us directly. Hardly any customers pay
are perceived by customers as a symbol of quality, exceptionality or
attention to chemical composition of counterfeit cosmetics. Harmful,
luxury. A cosmetic product bearing a given trademark is associated with
frequently toxic contents of counterfeit cosmetics, if applied directly
a particular source of origin, so buyers expect a certain level of quality
to skin, cause irritation or severe allergy. Famous cosmetic companies
of the product deriving from that source. In other words, a trademark is
devote a lot of time and funds to research and clinical testing of their pro-
a reflection of customers’ expectations and frequently helps to decide
ducts in order to guarantee customers the highest quality of cosmetics
between products on the market.
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In consequence of the growing popularity of Internet, there has been a rise in the amount of counterfeit cosmetics sold through this official and easy to reach channel of distribution. Such situation results from the fact that inexperienced buyers, when seeing products offered for sale through popular, international internet portals, are easily misled into thinking that those products are original. Customers are deceived by convincing descriptions of auctions, attractive pricing or the outer look of the product. Unfortunately, the outer look of counterfeit goods does not differ from that of the original ones, or differs in respect of small details or the lack of safety features applied by the manufacturers to original products, which is difficult to verify by ordinary customers. In view of the fact that the above discussed problem is becoming more and more serious, Internet portals, such as Allegro or eBay, have implemented programs through which intellectual property right owners are enabled to report the auctions of products that infringe their rights. Individuals and companies being the holders of IP rights (such as copyright, trademark rights or patent rights) which may be infringed through the sale of products at Internet auctions, are encouraged to participate in those programs by portal administrators. In case of purchasing goods through the Internet, or in a place which is not an official distribution channel, one should pay special attention to such characteristic features of the products as the color of packaging, volume of packaging, spelling mistakes in the names or information about the products, or how easy it is to remove a trademark from the packaging. However, what should make customers most alert and rise their suspicions about potential infringement is an unreasonably low price of the cosmetic products offered for sale.
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A significant amount of counterfeit cosmetics which are put on
Any person committing either of this two criminal acts will be subject
the market originate from import from outside the European Union.
to a fine, a period of liberty restriction, or up two years imprisonment.
According to information from the Polish customs authorities, cosmetics
However, the conviction of a perpetrator committing the above mentio-
are among counterfeit goods which are seized most frequently.
ned criminal acts will only be possible in cases where it is proved by
The problem of import and export of counterfeit goods from and into the territory of the European Union has been addressed by the European Commission. The Commission’s works resulted in issuance of Council
police and the Public Prosecutor that the criminal acts was committed intentionally. Trade mark owners must be aware of the fact that, in most cases,
Regulation (EC) No. 1383/2003 as of 22nd July 2003 which came into
they must file a motion for prosecution if they wish to enforce their
effect on 1st July 2004.
rights through the criminal justice system. Only after this motion is
Poland, as a EU member state, is bound to observe the above
filed can the proceedings be started and continued ex officio. The
mentioned Regulation which concerns the actions that the Customs
only exception is when the person committing the crime obtains sub-
authorities may undertake against the goods suspected of infringement
stantial profits from his criminal activity, or introduces a significant
of third parties’ rights, as well as the means used in connection with
amount of counterfeit goods bearing the trade mark onto the market.
those goods.
In such cases, the perpetrator in subject to a more serious penalty
In addition to the above, Poland is also bound by Council Regulation
(namely, imprisonment from six months up to five years) and the
(EC) No. 189/2004 as of 21st October 2004 which came into effect on
proceedings may be initiated ex officio (it is not necessary to file the
1st July 2004, and is an executive act for the above mentioned Regula-
motion for prosecution).
tion No. 1383/2003. The Council Regulation (EC) No. 1383/2003 as of 22nd July 2003
Not only the Customs authorities, but also the Polish Police are open to improving their skills in IP protection. With the intention of protecting
is applied in cases where there is a suspicion that the goods infringe
IP rights and ensuring better contact between the Police and IP right
intellectual property rights, while those goods have been applied for
owners, separate divisions have been established within the Police
admission to free trade, export or return export, or if the goods were
organizational structures. These namely are Divisions for Combating
found during the customs control at entering or leaving the customs area
Economic Crime, the key role of which is, among others, undertaking
of the European Community.
operational and investigative steps in order to eliminate from turnover
Under the above Regulation a trade mark owner can file with the main Customs Chamber in Warsaw a request to grant customs protection. The abovementioned request has to be made on a special form. The
counterfeit goods. Finally, it is worth to mention a new threat to IP rights owners – the practice of importing original cosmetics from outside the Polish customs
following must contain all the information needed to enable the goods in
area. The cosmetics are cheaper, but on many occasions not destined for
question to be readily recognised by the customs authorities.
the Polish market.
If the main Customs Chamber in Warsaw gives protection to a trade
Fortunately, there are legal measures allowing IP rights owners
mark, the customs authorities are granted the right to seize and stop any
to prevent third parties from interfering with their products in certain
suspect goods which may be counterfeit for ten working days (which can
situations.
be extended by ten more days). Polish customs authorities also have the possibility to seize the
To summarize, combating counterfeit goods is not only the cooperation between the Police, Customs Authorities and the private
goods even if the customs protection is not granted (seizures ex officio).
business sector. There is a lot to be done to improve awareness of
Such seizure is made for three working days in order to enable the IP
ordinary customers and buyers of the goods, who must understand
rights owner to file the abovementioned request for granting the customs
that counterfeit cosmetics may evoke serious consequences to their
protection.
health and wellness. In view of this, it is essential that entrepreneurs
Through the agency of the Main Customs Chamber in Warsaw,
or firms whose interest and/ or rights may be endangered by third
the owners of Community Trade Marks may also apply for customs
parties’ actions, undertake the relevant legal steps to obtain the best
protection through the UE.
possible protection against counterfeit goods.
In Poland it is considered a criminal act to put a counterfeit trade
Manufacturers of cosmetics, in order to ensure that their products
mark on goods with the intention of introducing them onto the market,
enjoy effective protection, are advised to monitor the relevant websites,
or introduce goods bearing counterfeit trademark onto the market. The
participate in watching programs organized by Internet portals, and fi-
IP Law defines a ‘counterfeit trade mark’ as any trade mark identical to,
nally apply for customs protection. Professional guidance in undertaking
or indistinguishable in the course of regular trade from a registered trade
these steps may be obtained from lawyers specializing in IP protection,
mark, which is unlawfully used in respect of the protected goods.
or patent attorneys.
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18 | production
Producer of the new generation of cosmetics – was founded in 1994 in Warsaw. The company’s mission from the very beginning has been to manufacture selective cosmetics for face and body care using the latest cosmetic knowledge while maintaining the highest product quality standards. The company produces over 100 marketed cosmetics and over 100 specialised preparations applied in professional cosmetics salons in Poland and abroad.
The structure of Dermika’s product range consists of the Dermika brand
but at the same time non-allergenic and effective. Dermika enables the
of new generation cosmetics, which includes over retailed 100 cosme-
latest achievements in the world of cosmetics to be used at a lower price
tics, and the Dermika Salon&Spa brand composed of over professional
than that of selective western brands. The company’s vision involves
preparations for use in cosmetic salons, such as Salon de luxe – pro-
building a trustworthy brand with great prestige amongst customers, by
fessional face care and Spa de luxe – professional body care. Dermika
keeping all the promises made to clients, honest advertising and reliable
produces modern care cosmetics using all the available scientific
information about the advantages of the product. Dermika’s vision is
and technological possibilities, maintains the highest quality product
based on eight basic values which are followed in all its actions:
standards, including the packaging, and satisfies the needs of deman-
• exclusivity – Dermika’s cosmetics are in the Premium or
ding customers who are looking for a product with class – elegant,
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Superpremium segments. The quality of Dermika’s products is
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Producer of the new generation of cosmetics
comparable with selective western brands and they have the same prestige;
• customer-oriented – Dermika takes care in order that the products it delivers exceed the expectations of the company’s
• professionalism – every stage of the product’s preparation is conducted by an outstanding professional who takes responsibility for the job entrusted to him; • innovation and creativity – Dermika aims to create better and ever more effective solutions, with regard to both products and
clients; • trust – the internal and external control systems and strict quality standards mean that Dermika’s customers can totally rely on the company’s products; • inspirations – Dermika carefully observes changes in market
technology. It is open to new ideas and seeks innovative solutions
preferences and initiates new trends. In line with the conviction that
which will allow the value of the company to increase;
nowadays it is not enough to meet a customer’s expectations, they
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have to be exceeded, Dermika inspires to discover new market opportunities and delivers creative ideas and solutions; • teamwork – Dermika’s working philosophy is geared
The specialists employed seek out new solutions with regard to ingredients and recipes, as well as packaging, design, advertising and market promotion of the products. Dermika collaborates with the
towards sharing skills, making use of common resources and
best producers of cosmetic ingredients, research labs, packaging
mutual help in aiming at a goal. However, it also appreciates
manufacturers and designers. It is efficiency, innovation and reliability
the individual potential and creativity of the employees, so it
which inspire the greatest respect in customers, and thanks to them
provides them with the chance to develop. Final solutions are
Dermika is gaining ever more acknowledgement on the market. In
arrived at by open discussion, avoiding the limitations imposed
the field of recipe innovation, the company has introduced a range
by a hierarchy;
of the world’s newest ingredients into its products, such as AHA
• knowledge sharing – Dermika actively shares its knowledge,
fruit acids, ceramides, pseudobotulin, phytoestrogens, idebenon,
data, experience, best practices and ideas with customers, which
peptides, retinol, active forms of vitamin C and B3, plant stem cells,
disciplines the company into making the right decisions, effective
hyaluronan and others. The company is also introducing technical
changes and taking swift action.
novelties in the fields of design, printing and improving packaging, and the innovations employed in the latter are testified by the ART
Dermika actively follows what’s new with regard to new technology,
OF PACKAGING 2007 awarded to Dermika for the Esencja de luxe
by participating in international trade fairs and seminars. Through
Individuelle packaging in the Professional edition in the Health and
collaboration with many scientific establishments it is constantly
Beauty Packaging category. With regard to innovations in services,
educating its workforce. For the products to be more and more
the company has created a programme of partnership for authorised
effective and fulfil the requirements of the most demanding customers,
salons, which includes consultation at the design stage, visualisation
the company conducts efficiency tests on products before introducing
of interiors and help with arranging them, accessories, training in
them onto the market. These tests are carried out by Dermika’s top
standards of customer service for every job, and appropriate training
class specialists and independent research laboratories.
for work and products. The company also offers attractive promotions for customers, the chance to include advertisements on Dermika’s
They form the basis of each product description, so the customer receives reliable information.
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materials and webpage, a consistent marketing image designed by top class specialists, consultancy in the field of marketing activities to
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promote salons, demarcation of the competences and personality traits
Timeline:
of staff in every position, and a list of recommended tools.
1994 r.
So far, DERMIKA has won over 80 prestigious prizes and
Dermika founded.
distinctions, awarded by fellow professionals, commercial bodies and
1995 r.
consumers. Prizes won several times bear witness to the admiration
Gold Medal at the Poznan International Trade Fair for Satysfakcja cream.
shown by professionals - Beauty Premium, HIT SALONU Beauty Expert, Professionalissimus. Dermika has also been awarded a range of distinctions from prestigious women’s magazines - Best for beauty from the monthly “Uroda”, Perfection of the Year from “Twój Styl”, Prix de Beaute from
1996 r. Golden Mallow and Perfection of the Year for Bio-Lifting.
1997 r. Dermika is the first Polish company to introduce a men’s line onto the market.
2002 r.
“Cosmopolitan”, as well as business awards such as Polish Business
opening of the Dermika Salon&Spa Institute and MediSpa Medical Centre in Warsaw.
Leader, European Medal and Business Gazelle (there is a full list of
2006 r.
awards on www.dermika.pl). In 2009, the company plans to strengthen
introduction of the Specialite line of selective anti-wrinkle cosmetics.
its position on foreign markets by opening new authorised salons abroad. The brand’s current success is a result of the following important events in Dermika’s history: the introduction of world cosmetic hits, which were immediately noticed by experts in the field, commencing collaboration with a well-known plastic surgeon from the University of California, which gave rise to the first super-effective
2006 r. publication of WOMAN – the beauty magazine for demanding women.
2007 r. market debut of Anti-Aging IDEBENON, a product containing a cosmetic world hit - the strongest anti-oxidant, discovered in the USA.
2008 r. relocation to new manufacturing and storage premises.
anti-wrinkle cosmetics designed for sale in Dr Bernard aesthetic
2008 r.
dermatology salons – 3D lift therapy created based on the concept of non-invasive wrinkle filling, the opening of the Dermika Salon&Spa
zmiana change in graphics and expansion of the Dermika Salon & Spa professional offer including 2 product lines - SALON de luxe and SPA de luxe.
Institute and Medi-Spa Medical Centre, whose specialists create new
2009 r.
cosmetics ranges and where these are tested.
introduction of the Stem Lift series with stem cells.
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Innovative Natural and Organic Cosmetics Boşenna Mirkowska technolog, kosmetolog – Laboratorium Kosmetyczne AVA
Nature is an unlimited source of active substances which support the natural protection system and repair processes which take place in our skin. Ancient beauties have used various methods to preserve their good looks, making use of the richness of nature: bathing in milk and honey, rubbing in fragrant oils. Already in the ancient times people were aware of their beneficial impact on skin. Aromatic oils obtained from plants have a strong impact on our psyche, and therefore on our frame of mind. Thence it is understandable that in the cosmetic industry (in particular body care) natural and ecological cosmetics have become so popular.
If there is such opportunity, why not use the nature’s bounty? Nature offers us everything that our body needs, one only has to be able to find it and make use of it. Natural cosmetics are perceived as safe products, more environmentally friendly and of higher quality. Due to these reasons, the first natural cosmetics were created for persons with sensitive and irritation-prone skin and as products for children. Currently, interest in such products is growing among people who do not have dermatological problems. When choosing natural cosmetics we choose care for our skin, the surrounding environment and the eco-system. The effect of using natural cosmetics remains longer than in the case of conventional cosmetics, due to the fact that the skin receives natural ingredients, supporting its natural protection system and natural repair process as well as providing it with vital strength. An additional benefit of natural cosmetics is ecological packaging, which does not constitute a threat to nature. An important issue for numerous consumers is the fact that ecological cosmetics are not tested on animals. The majority of such cosmetics are vegan, which means that among their ingredients there are no animal-origin products. The products are friendly for the environment, the soil and people.
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23
Certifi cation as a Guarantee for Naturalness, Effi ciency and Safety
The consumers of natural and ecological cosmetics are most often
amounts of plant extracts and a lot of synthetic ingredients, aromas and
people who are aware of the impact of chemical additives onto health,
preservatives. In spite of this, the producers advertise on the packaging
people who take care of their skin in a biologically natural manner, who
that these are natural cosmetics, misleading the consumers.
relatively well-to-do and focused on high quality of cosmetics purchased
The idea of creating products based on solely natural ingredients
by them. Recipients of natural cosmetics are also environmentally
emerged in 1996. An association was established in that year which
predisposed persons who prefer a healthy life style; they are often called
standardised the phrasing regarding natural products. A definition of a
LOHAS consumers (LOHAS – Lifestyle of Health and Sustainability).
natural product was prepared: “A natural cosmetic is a product whose aim is to beautify and nourish
Eco-cosmetics constitute the most dynamically developing branch of
with the use of natural substances, which is friendly for the skin and
eco-products. The value of the eco-cosmetics market in Europe is EUR
for the environment, healthy, which supports self-regulation of the
2 billion (data derives from the fair of ecological products, BIOFACH,
human body and provides long-term support for the natural beauty and
Nuremburg 2009). In the last years, there was a 20% increase in sales of
harmonious development of the body and the spirit” according to the
natural cosmetics in Western Europe, whereas 25% of the users choose
guidelines of the Committee of Experts on Cosmetic Products at the
preparations based on natural ingredients.
Public Health Committee by the Council of Europe.
Our needs are reflected by growing interest in natural materials, manner of their production and certification.
However, in the recent years, the international cosmetic markets have been experiencing a dynamic development of “controlled natural cosmetics” called ORGANIC. Products marked as “controlled natural
What is a natural cosmetic? Natural cosmetics can have different names: ecological, organic,
cosmetics” contain only natural ingredients: plant oils, vegetable fat and wax, extracts from herbs and flower nectar, aromatic oils derived from
biological. But how to differentiate a natural product from a product
controlled biological farming or collected from wild plants. Apart from
which is close to nature only by its flowery scent and a convincing
diligence in selection and composition of the ingredients, environmental
advertising campaign? The producers, making use of the popularity
tolerance related to every product is also significant (i.e. environmentally
of the ECO trend, often overuse such terms. Numerous cosmetics
friendly production process, as well degradation process). Economic use
have nothing to do with naturalness. Such products contain only trace
of packaging and packaging recycling is also important.
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24 | production Certification authorities help in differentiating between natural
• using processing and manufacturing that is environmentally-
and organic cosmetics. Several independent organisations which
friendly;
certify cosmetics operate in Europe. They control the cosmetics with
• integrating and developing the concept of “green chemistry”;
respect to naturalness, safety and impact, as well as verify the origin of
• certification of natural cosmetics in line with the COSMOS standards
components used in them, including their quantity and quality. Such
(absence of own logo).
institutions are: • ECOCERT (France) – a control and accreditation
European organisations that certify ecological cosmetics are working
organisation for organic and ecological products,
on establishment of uniform standards for such products. This will allow
approved in over 80 countries around the world.
for:
• BDIH (Germany) – Association of German Industries and Trading Firms (Bundesverband
• establishment of a basis for introducing official legal regulations (directive, standard, etc.);
Deutscher Industrie und Handelsunternehmen)
• limitation of abuse of terms such as “natural”, “ecological”, etc.;
dealing with pharmaceuticals, natural food products,
• increase of customer awareness with respect to environmental
food supplements and personal hygiene products.
cosmetics = increase in sales.
• SOIL ASSOCIATION (Great Britain) – a leading English organisation which certifies ecological food products and agriculture. Since 2002, certificates are
Introduction of uniform standards for the entire Europe is planned for September 2012.
also issued for cosmetics. • AIAB (Italy) – Italian Association of Ecological
At the same time, other initiatives are emerging: e.g. NaTrue,
Agriculture (Associazione Italiana per l’Agricoltura
established by producers of such German brands as Weleda,
Biologica).
Dr Hauschka, Logona, Lavera, Primavera and Santa Verde. New European brand for natural and organic cosmetics (International
Manufacturers of natural cosmetics continue to face new challenges.
Natural & Organic Cosmetics Association).
The market offers an increasing number of natural cosmetics, therefore their naturalness, as well as quality is equally important. The sole princi-
Production of Certified Natural Cosmetics
ple of formulating such cosmetic is no longer sufficient; its qualities, e.g.
Production of natural cosmetics is related to numerous
the efficiency of active substances, consistency and absorption acquire
restrictions and additional costs. They have to comply with strictly
more and more importance.
defined, rigorous standards. Plant extracts used in the formulas have to derive from supervised plantations. Analyses are conducted not only on plants. The controls commence already at the stage of soil preparation. Before an ecological plantation is established, the chemical composition of the soil where the plants will grow is checked for a period of three subsequent years. Apart from the soil, the rain water is also examined with respect to the degree and type of pollution, as well as water used for watering. Conventional plant protection agents and fertilisers are forbidden. It is only possible to use agents and fertilisers included on special lists of permitted and certified products. A true challenge for the industries producing ingredients for production of certified cosmetics is searching for new, better supplements, increasing their availability and functionali-
Larysa Dysput-Goławska, owner of the Laboratory Cosmetic AVA
Europe standardised the principles regarding production of ecologi-
ty and increasing the efficiency of vegetal extracts. Requirements to be met by a producer who wants to obtain a
cal cosmetics in line with the COSMOS guidelines (Cosmetics Organic
certificate according to ECOCERT standards:
and Natural Standard). The European Cosmetics Organic Standards
• A NATURAL COSMETIC contains a minimum of 5% of certified
Working Group is composed of BIOFORUM, COSMEBIO, ECOCERT,
ingredients of organic origin in the entire formula, which should
BDIH, ICEA and SOIL ASSOCIATION.
constitute 50% of plant origin ingredients. • A NATURLAL & ORGANIC COSMETIC contains a minimum of 10%
The principles of the Group’s operation are as follows:
of certified ingredients of organic origin, which should constitute
• promoting the use of products derived from organic farming;
95% of plant origin ingredients.
• using natural resources responsibly and respecting the natural environment;
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• In both types of cosmetics 95% of ingredients should be of natural origin.
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production | 25
Important definitions:
The packaging of a certified cosmetic has to include:
• Natural raw material: vegetable or mineral raw material obtained
• labelling of the awarded cosmetics category: natural, organic;
directly from farming, crops or monitored cultivation, unmodified or
• logo of the certification authority;
modified by physical methods, having a valid certificate of organicity,
• information regarding the percentage content of natural ingredients
corresponding to quality criteria determined in the Standards;
and certified ecological ingredients.
• Natural origin material: material deriving from natural sources: vegetable, mineral or processed with the use of permitted chemical processes listed in the Standards and complying with quality criteria defined in such Standards; • Fair trade-branded materials: this principle, referring primarily to supporting local communities from around the world, indirectly
It is also recommended to place a declaration of no use of ethoxylated materials, parabenas and no animal testing on the label. The manufacturer has to hold a license for production of certified natural and organic cosmetics (the license is valid for one year and it is awarded after the audit conducted by ECOCERT certifying unit).
contributes to the interest in original materials and natural products. The quality sign “natural and organic controlled cosmetic” means that List of substances whose application in the production of natural cosmetics is forbidden: • Mineral oil, paraffin oil and other petroleum-derivatives (including glycols);
every cosmetic complies with highest quality criteria and is produced in line with requirements of French certifying authority – ECOCERT. Among 80 companies around the world which hold the Ecocert license, there is only one Polish company: Laboratorium Kosmetyczne
• Silicones;
AVA, which produces the first Polish certified natural and organic
• Ethoxylated substances: PEG;
cosmetics from the ECO Linea® series.
• Synthetic dyes; • Synthetic aromas and synthetic scent compositions;
ECO Linea® are exceptional cosmetics relying on innovative
• Polyacrylates (carbomers);
formulas making use of plants from certified ecological bio-cultivations.
• Quaternary ammonia alkali;
Achievements in cosmetology allowed for creating exceptional products,
• Synthetic derivatives of acids or fatty alcohols;
which help to bring out and emphasise the natural beauty in everyone of
• Preservatives non-identical with natural ones (e.g. parabenas,
us. All values given to us by nature are used in the cosmetics. The idea of Laboratorium Kosmetyczne AVA is to combine the beauty of nature
phenoxyethanol); • Materials obtained from dead animals (e.g. fat, proteins, live cells).
with modern human beings and their every-day problems. The result of these efforts is obtaining the international certificate and quality sign
Additionally, the use of any substances tested on animals or
ECOCERT.
conserved by radiation is also forbidden.
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26 | production
Good Manufacturing Practice in the cosmetics industry according to the PN-EN ISO 22716:2009’ standard Irena Ozga Cosmetosphera
GMP in the cosmetics industry – then and now The appearance of the PN-EN ISO 22716:2009’ standard, “Cosmetics – Good Manufacturing Practices (GMP) – Guide to Good Manufacturing Practices”, aroused very great interest in GMP within the cosmetics industry. GMP matters are nothing new to cosmetics
Also the latest legislation – the European Parliament Regulation on cosmetic products, currently at the publication stage – refers (in Article 8) to the subject of GMP. With this in mind, in the remainder of this article I will attempt to describe the requirements laid down by that standard.
producers. However the industry undoubtedly felt the lack of uniform guidelines, and this was one of the reasons why the publishing of standards was a long-awaited development. It must be remembered that the cosmetics industry includes
What is Good Manufacturing Practice? Good Manufacturing Practice (GMP) defines a cosmetic manufacturer’s quality assurance system in a practical way, by laying down
a wide range of firms, from small family business specializing in
requirements which must be fulfilled in the areas of production,
a narrow range of production, all the way up to huge concerns
control and storage. The purpose of this system is to ensure that the
manufacturing wide portfolios of products. All of these firms have
final product complies with defined characteristics in a way which
made attempts to define boundary production requirements.
accords with the objectives of the Good Practices.
For many years, help in such matters and the basis for Good
GMP requirements cover various areas relating to the control,
Manufacturing Practice were supplied by COLIPA’s “Guidelines for
production and storage of cosmetics, beginning with the role of
the Manufacturer of Cosmetic Products” (1988-EC 1994).
management and requirements relating to employees, through the
References to Good Manufacturing Practice also appear in the
organization of production, equipment, control of incoming and
2002 Act on Cosmetics, which refers to a method of production in
outgoing materials, up to guidelines concerning subcontractors,
accordance with good production practice.
documentation and internal audits.
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27
Structure of the ISO 22716 standard The PN-EN ISO 22716 standard, as its title suggests, is a guide. It contains discussion of the key areas in the building of a GMP-compliant production system, but without giving specific requirements. The standard frequently contains the terms “appropriate”, “adequate”, “specified” without giving concrete parameters. For
be encouraged to report irregularities at the level of the tasks assigned to them. Also emphasized in this area is the role of management, who should also take responsibility for the implementation of a GMP system with the involvement of all staff. An important task for management is to ensure that employees
example: “The water treatment system should deliver water of a
are properly trained in Good Manufacturing Practice. Training may be
specified quality” or “Install appropriate lighting in all areas.” The
conducted by the firm itself, or by expert outside organizations. It should
standard cannot be used as a checklist, but on the other hand it gives
also be documented, and the knowledge acquired during training should
cosmetics manufacturers a certain amount of discretion in selecting
be evaluated.
individual and optimum solutions. The ISO standard on GMP contains guidelines on quality,
The subject of the hygiene in a cosmetics plant is one of the key aspects. Every firm should develop hygiene programmes, having the
production, storage and shipping of products, but does not cover
personal hygiene of employees as an integral part. Hygiene programmes
aspects relating to safety or environmental protection, which are
should also include the supervision of rooms and machinery from the
dealt with in separate regulations. It also excludes aspects relating to
point of view of hygiene.
research and development work and product distribution. The standard consists of 17 chapters, of which the first two
At each plant there should be a division into zones. Depending on the type of zone, it will be necessary to wear appropriate clothing and
constitute an introduction to the standard and include a set of terms
observe an appropriate manner of behaviour, with restrictions relating to
and definitions appearing in the standard.
hand-washing, food consumption and unhygienic behaviours.
The remaining chapters cover practical aspects, and in the
Moreover the health of employees must not have an adverse impact
remainder of this article I will attempt to introduce the most impor-
on the product. For this reason employees with health problems should
tant issues and provide a practical commentary on them.
not come into direct contact with products.
Requirements of the standard
Rooms
Employees
Rooms should be such as to ensure the safety of the product, enable
According to the standard, a firm should ensure that persons working in the production, control and storage of products of defined quality should have appropriate training in those areas. An important role in defining relationships is played by the organizational chart, which should also specify the independence of the unit responsible for quality. Employees of a cosmetics manufacturer should know their place in
effective cleaning – and disinfection when necessary – and minimize the risk of errors. It is also necessary to define the flow of movement of employees, materials and products in buildings and in zones. In flow planning it is advisable to remember about the division between clean and dirty activities, in order to avoid cross-contamination. The standard also draws attention to the quality of lighting, the
the structure, be suitably trained, act in accordance with documentation,
quality of materials used to build premises, particularly in production
and comply with personal hygiene requirements. Employees should also
zones, as well as ventilation and waste water pipes.
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28 | production The rooms and the building as a whole should be properly protected against pests.
Finished products Before being placed on the market, finished products should be checked, using appropriate methods, by staff responsible for quality. Criteria should
Equipment Equipment should be made of suitable materials which do not have an effect on the quality of products. Equipment must be compatible with the cosmetic products and with disinfectant cleaning agents. The equipment must be properly washed and disinfected. It is also necessary to define the types of washing and disinfecting agents used
also be defined for the release of a finished product onto the market. The finished product should be stored in specified conditions for a specified time. A rejected product must be stored in an appropriately defined location in order to avoid errors, and must be suitably marked as to its rejected status. The standard also drawn attention to supervision of products
to clean the devices. The most important production devices should be
returned from customers, which should be suitably marked, stored and
appropriately marked.
re-evaluated before being brought back onto the market.
Equipment must also be properly supervised, with attention paid to maintenance and calibration.
Quality control laboratory
Ingredients and packaging materials
the purpose of approving materials for use, and finished products for
The laboratory is responsible for performing appropriate checks for These should be bought from appropriately selected suppliers. It is important that the choice of supplier not be based only on price
sale, if their quality meets suitable acceptance criteria. Checks should be performed using appropriate testing methods.
factors, but that a determination also be made of the supplier’s experien-
Product samples should be stored in sufficient quantity for a full analysis
ce and competence.
of the product to be performed. Samples of ingredients do not have to be
Materials and ingredients should be tested and approved for use,
stored.
and marked as to their status (accepted, rejected, quarantined) by properly trained staff with responsibility for quality. Materials accepted based on a certificate of analysis can be approved for use only when the supplier’s competence has been determined, an audit carried out, and the testing methods accepted. Ingredients and packaging should be stored in a manner which is compatible with their properties. Attention is also drawn to the quality of water used in production. The water should come from a suitable water treatment system. This system must enable disinfection, and the water quality must be monitored. The question often arises as to what specific requirements should be fulfilled by production water. It is stated that the water at a plant should meet the minimum requirements laid down in the Health Minister’s Order of 19 February 2002 on requirements relating to the quality of water intended for human consumption. Production In the standard, the production part is divided into the weighing out of the mixture and the making up of the product. In both of these areas, before production commences the materials should be released for use,
In my opinion, the areas discussed above are key issues for quality.
the equipment should be checked and in good order, and the relevant
Nonetheless we should not omit the other issues covered by the
documentation should be available. The production area should be
standard. These are subcontracting, production waste, products outside
cleaned following previous operations.
specification, customer complaints, internal audits, and documentation.
Every mixture and every unit of ready product should have a mixture number assigned. Also important is identification of the machine on which the mixture was produced and on which the finished product was made up. Controls applied during the process should be defined, as well as the corresponding acceptance criteria.
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All of the requirements laid down in the standard must be properly met if one is to be able to speak of an effective GMP system. Proper and coherent activity in all of the aforementioned areas, in accordance with the requirements of the standard, should enable a cosmetics manufacturer to create a clear and effective system of Good Manufacturing Practice.
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production | 29
Natural liposomes
an alternative to skin care cosmetics Alina Bazan
„Organika” Sp. z o.o.
Anita Przepiórkowska
Technical University of Łódź, Institute of Polymers and Dyes
Manufacturers of cosmetic products are increasingly seeking cosmetic ingredients based on natural components, which have milder, more efficient and comprehensive action than synthetic raw materials, often responsible for allergic symptoms. Cosmetic products with natural components have an all-round effect on the skin, including conditioning, beautifying and therapeutic action. Therefore there is growing interest in cosmetic ingredients of natural origin. The properties of a cosmetic product are determined not only by the biologically active compound it contains, but also the ingredients that accompany it. Raw materials for the manufacture of liposomes
Moiety
Phosphatidylcholine (PC)
Surfactants, which are so-called amphiphilic systems, are vital
Phosphatidylethanolamine (PE)
components of many cosmetic formulas. Lecithin (a phospholipid), clas-
Phosphatidylinositol (PI)
sified as an emulsifier of water-in-oil (W/O) emulsions, is an important member of the group of natural surfactants1. This raw material does not
Name of phospholipid
Phosphatidylserine (PS) Tab. 1. Moieties bound with the phosphoric acid residue3
lead to skin irritation; conversely, it has known anti-allergic activity and has a number of other important functions, such as providing a correct lipid level for the skin and making it flexible, softening the epidermis and facilitating the penetration of active components contained in human skin formulations2. Standard lecithin is a brown substance with sticky, plastic consistency. In this form it is a mixture of polar and non-polar lipids, with non-polar lipids making up 60% of the weight of the mixture. Polar lecithins are insoluble in acetone and contain mainly phospholipids and glycolipids. Before being used for cosmetic purposes, lecithin is refined by extraction with acetone and fractionation. The best-known phospholipids include several combinations which differ in terms of the moiety which is bound with the phosphoric acid residue. The most important are listed in Table 1, with their general formula given in Figure 1.
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Fig. 1. Phospholipids4
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30 | production
Alongside their technological importance, phospholipids also display a number of physiological functions. Owing to the high content of polyunsaturated fatty acids, they restore normal skin defence functions and increase linolenic acid levels in skin lecithin. Phospholipids bind water and, by forming a film on skin tissue collagen fibres, they ensure that the skin remains moisturised for a long time. Therefore phospholipids are used as components of cosmetic formulations and as a primary
Fig. 2. Formation of liposomes4
raw material in the manufacture of natural liposomes1. Pharmaceutical glycerine (a trihydroxy alcohol) is another raw
A number of reviews concerning the preparation, stabilisation and
material used in the manufacture of liposomes. It is a colourless, dense,
use of liposomes in cosmetics are available 8,9. Kozubek provides an in-
very viscous liquid, readily soluble in water, hygroscopic and non-toxic.
depth analysis of the history of liposome studies8. Bangham discovered
It is manufactured by fat saponification or synthetically from propene 5.
liposomes and was the first to describe their structure10.
Glycerine is an emollient (moisturising agent), acting as a kind of
Prepared lecithin fractions, especially diester derivatives of 1,2-dia-
dressing which protects the skin against excessive water evaporation
cyl-sn-glycero-3-phosphate enriched with phosphatidylcholine (PC),
from its deeper layers and also protects against the adverse impact of
form spherical structures in aqueous systems, known in the literature
environmental factors. Glycerine is therefore another vital component
as vesicles. The three-dimensional forms make single- or multi-layer
of liposomes and other cosmetic formulations, in particular emulsions
structures whose outer hydrophilic layer surrounds the hydrophobic acyl
which, having been added to the oil phase of a finished product, serve as
layer. To enable the formation of the lipid bilayer, a number of conditions
a “protective coat” for dry and cracked skin5.
must be met; for example, the hydrophilic groups and terminal
Other ingredients in the manufacture of liposomes are biologically
hydrophobic groups should have similar sizes, as is the case with the
active substances, such as vitamins (important ingredients of many
majority of phospholipids. Structurally, phospholipids are divided into
cosmetic products). Applied to the skin, they have a very beneficial
two parts: the hydrophilic head and the lipophilic tail. The first part
cosmetic effect, immediately or after prolonged use1. Because the skin
contains a phosphoric acid diester, bound through one of the hydroxyl
is a kind of a “screen” on which it can be seen how the body functions,
groups with glycerine on one side and choline, ethanolamine, serine
they are necessary for the appropriate maintenance of the skin7. Vitamins
or inositol on the other. The lipophilic residue has two C14-C24 fatty
are biocatalysts, organic compounds with varied structures, necessary
acid chains, bound with the other hydroxyl groups. When an aqueous
for the correct functioning of the body. Skin care using vitamins provides
system is added to a dry phospholipid, spherical forms with double
very beneficial effects. They inhibit the skin ageing processes without
membranes assemble spontaneously. The lipophilic parts contained
disturbing the physiological processes taking place within the skin.
in phospholipids are directed towards the inside of the membrane, and
The penetration of vitamins through the skin depends on the medium in
the hydrophilic head groups are oriented outside and inside towards the
which they are dissolved1.
aqueous medium. Bilayers may occur in various forms, such as gels
Vitamins used in liposome carriers are classified as:
when lipid particles form a two-dimensional system in which fatty acid
• vitamins soluble in water: vitamin C
chains have limited mobility, or in a liquid crystal phase. The mobility of
• vitamins soluble in fats: vitamins A, E, F
lipophilic residues increases upon transition from the gel phase to the crystal phase. The transition is largely dependent on the temperature,
Apart from vitamins, active ingredients are also encapsulated in liposomes, such as proteins (collagen, elastin), plant extracts, and
head size and saturation level of the fatty acids2. For an overview of liposome manufacturing methods for cosmetic
strongly moisturising substances (urea). In order for the skin to benefit
purposes, see Billek11 and Suzuki12. Kozubek provides a good descrip-
from vitamins and other biologically active substances contained in
tion of the manufacture of liposomes with examples of their preparation
a cosmetic formulation, active forms of such components must penetrate
on a laboratory scale 8. The same author describes the composition of
into the deeper layers. It is possible to develop a cosmetic product in
lipids for the manufacture of liposomes. Advantages and weaknesses of
which vitamins are utilised only when they penetrate deep into the skin
particular liposome manufacturing methods are discussed in Reza et al.13
thanks to liposomes: active carriers which not only stabilise vitamins in
and Jones14.
a cosmetic formulation, but also help in their optimal use 6.
The most important liposome production methods include:
Preparation of liposomes Liposomes are vesicular structures with a size of 0.01–1 µm,
• film method • injection from alcoholic solution • extrusion method
surrounded by a lipid bilayer. They form spontaneously from phospho-
Most scientific papers concerning the manufacture of liposomes
lipids in an aqueous environment and are filled with a small amount of
for cosmetic purposes indicate that, besides lecithin, other auxiliary
the aqueous solution from which they form4. The liposome formation
substances are present in liposomes, such as parabens and phenoxy-
process is shown in Figure 2.
ethanol, classified as preservatives2.
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production | 31 Among lecithins, the most favourable properties for penetration of
Therefore the use of such liposomes entails a number of major
deeper skin layers occur when the content of unsaturated fatty acid resi-
advantages compared to commercially available conventional carriers:
dues is the highest; this is particularly applicable to phosphatidylcholine
• no preservatives,
(PC). The high susceptibility of lecithins to oxidation can be reduced
• completely safe for health, not sensitising,
by hydrogenation, which yields stable and odourless phospholipids.
• pleasant, soft and smooth skin effect after application,
Improved stability of liposomes manufactured by freeze-drying and
• easier penetration of active substances to target sites in the skin,
based on hydrogenated lecithins is also noted.
• liposomes have preventive action and accelerate the treatment of
The need to use pure forms for the manufacture of liposomes with high phosphatidylcholine (PC) content is more and more often indicated. This is achieved for liposome formulations which show very good
many skin conditions.
Summary The use of natural liposomes in finished cosmetic preparations will lead
skin moisture content after application, following 30 days of action of liposome formulations
to reduction in the presence of additional preservatives whose action on the
• Liposomes with 76% PC: total moisture increase (40% skin
skin is unfavourable and irritating. It follows from this review that liposomes
15
are triggering fundamental change in a number of fields, especially in
moisturisation)
16
• Liposomes with 21% PC: 42% skin moisturisation (Z.D. “Organika”
cosmetics. It is noted, however, that this is related to the discovery of other properties of lecithins, stand-alone carriers based on natural raw materials,
Sp. z o.o.)
17
rather than to the launch of a new product onto the market. Furthermore, active substances encapsulated in phospholipids, such
A number of cosmetic components have a very favourable effect on
as urea, sustain skin moisturisation, not being as rapidly washed out as
the skin. However, the penetration of some of them through the stratum
with other formulations18.
corneum is impossible or limited, which may prevent them from reaching target sites in the skin. Therefore, preservative-free liposomes have been
Development technologies in the chemical industry
developed which combine the simultaneous action of several substances and retain the desirable properties of commercially available carriers.
The development of laboratory liposome manufacturing methods and their subsequent transfer to an industrial scale with low raw material and energy expenditure is a vital element of liposome technology.
References A. Marzec, Chemia kosmetyków, Dom Organizatora, Toruń 2005. J. Sągała, A. Bazan, Przem. Chem. 2009, 88, no. 7, 832. 3 http://www.uni-karlsruhe.de 4 K. Kacprzak, K. Gawrońska, Chemia kosmetyczna, UAM, Poznań 2008. 5 M. Molski, Chemia piękna, Wydawnictwo Naukowe PWN, Warsaw 2009. 6 L. Montenegro, C. Carbone, M. Milisenda, Journal of Applied Cosmetology, 24, 115, 2006. 7 R. Glinka, M. Glinka, Receptura kosmetyczna z elementami kosmetologii tom 1 Ofi cyna Wydawnicza MA, Łódź 2008. 8 A. Kozubek, Wstęp do technologii liposomowej, WUW, Wrocław 2004. 9 C.M. Annesini, A. Memoli, S. Petralito, Rec. Res. Dev. Biotechnol. & Bioeng. 2003, 5, 29. 10 A.D. Bangham, M.M. Standisch, J.C. Watkind, J. Mol. Biol. 1965, 13, 238. 11 E.D. Billek, SÖFW 1991, 117, 617 12 K. Suzuki, K. Kenichi, Cosmetics & Toiletries 1990, 105, 65 13 R.M. Reza, Mol. Biol. Letters 2005, 10, 711. 14 N.M. Jones, Adv. Coll. Int. Sci. 1995, 54, 93. 15 R. Astmann, Biochim. Biophys. Acta 1990, 5, 324. 16 Pat. USA 3957971 (1976). 17 A. Bazan, A. Przepiórkowska, (2009), Otrzymywanie i właściwości liposomów, 52. Zjazd PTCh i SiTPChem Łódź, poster. 18 Pat. Rus. 2281753 (2006). 1 2
The stability of liposomes depends on a number of factors, both with respect to the structure of the liposome itself and the raw materials for the carrier; the proportion of respective ingredients, which affects stability over time, is highly important. Cosmetic raw materials require certain stabilising substances, which do not necessarily have to be preservatives. Such additional substances should ensure stability for extended periods, not be allergenic and not be harmful to human health. The alternatives are either to replace preservatives with other substances which confer the required stability to cosmetic raw materials, such as aromatic oils (e.g. tea tree oil), or to develop a formula in which they are not needed, given the proportions of the constituent substances of the formulation.
P-MP Liposome, vitamin mix The liposomes prepared at Zakład Doświadczalny “Organika” Sp. z o.o. in Nowa Sarzyna are such products. These carriers are based solely on natural components, such as lecithin with a PC (phosphatidylcholine) content of approx. 21%, glycerine and biologically active substances, such as urea and vitamins. Owing to the careful selection of raw materials and proportions of components, they are stable over time and microbiologically pure, as confirmed by analytical results in specialised testing laboratories. In addition, the liposomes are not sensitising, as proved in in vivo studies, and have very good performance characteristics; they have been used in finished cosmetic products.
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sponsored article
32 32 | production production
Before you launch a cosmetic product LABORATORIUM ELLA
The cosmetic industry provides us with an increasing quantity and quality of skin care products. Before these products become ready to use, however, every released cosmetic product should go through a series of specialized tests that guarantee its high quality and safe use. High quality of cosmetic products ensures the protection of the user’s health and prevents financial losses of the producer.
Since 2002, Ella Laboratory has been performing such tests. The scope of work includes microbiological tests, dermatological
The products are also tested by a group representing the potential users of the product. This test (application and usage test) allows to
tests, application and usage tests, physicochemical tests as well as an
determine the functional properties, demonstrate the declared effects
appraisal of the effects of the use of cosmetic on the user’s health. We
of the use of the product and additionally confirm the product’s safety.
also perform tests on household chemicals. According to international requirements, the microbial purity of
A cosmetic manufacturer should draw up a standard or specification for the manufactured product, including the information on composition
cosmetic products should be on a level corresponding to the one of
or characteristics, scope of application, organoleptic and physicoche-
pharmaceuticals. The stproduction of cosmetics is exposed to microbial
mical properties, required limits, methods to determine these properties
contamination. Despite modern technological processes and obeying the
and the frequency of the tests. It is to provide an identification of the
appropriate standards there still is a risk that some residual microflora
product and allow an appropriate control over its quality.
will remain. Microbiological tests determined in the Ordinance of the Minister of
The producer is obliged to hold the certificates confirming the compliance of the product with the factory production standard as well
Health of 23rd of December 2002 (Journal of Laws 9/2003), aimed at the
as certificates of routine tests (described in the standards).
detection of the general count of aerobic bacteria, Blastomyces, mold
Our Laboratory offers:
spores, pathogenic Staphylococcus and Pseudomonas Aeruginosa,
• Microbial purity tests of raw materials, semiproducts, packages,
suggest that the count of the mentioned microbes is the main factor in determining of the microbiological quality of cosmetic products. The aforementioned dermatological tests are patch tests (epidermal),
finished products • Dermatological tests including HRIPT • Application tests and tests performed using testing equipment
which are to detect contact allergies (delayed allergies) to low molecular
• Drawing up standards and compliance tests
compounds found in cosmetics or household chemicals. The record and
• Physicochemical tests of raw materials and finished products
the interpretation of the test results relies on the experience of the expert
• Appraisals of the effect of the product on safety of human health
researcher- dermatologist and is based on the rules compliant with the International Contact Dermatitis Research Group system.
Ella Laboratory’s scope of work is based on highly trained and
Another important dermatological test is the Human Repeated
experienced personnel as well as longstanding practice in the field of
Insult Patch Test (HRIPT). The advantage of HRIPT is the appraisal of
cosmetic’s quality testing. The tests are performed in accordance with
the potential sensitizing and irritant properties of the tested product by
the Cosmetic Products Act, national standards and European Union
an exposure of a group of people to the product applied in epidermal
Directives. The results are presented in a clear way in a form of a report.
test for a period of few weeks. This test allows not only to appraise the risk of a contact allergy, but also to determine any irritant properties.
To obtain more information- visit our website at
The mentioned method is found particularly useful in the appraisal of
http://www.lab-ella.waw.pl/ or ask a question sending an e-mail
cosmetics for children, people affected by risk of skin diseases as well as
at laboratorium.ella�neostrada.pl
washing powders, washing liquids and fabric softeners.
1/2010
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sponsored article
production | 33
Macelignan
a natural active stimulating adipogenesis and its use in cosmetics
Provital Polska Sp. z o.o. 62-030 Luboń k.Poznania ul. Przy Autostradzie 1 tel. (+48) 61 810 22 64, fax (+48) 61 813 16 73 biuroprovitalpolska.pl www.provitalgroup.com
Adipose tissue in terms of beauty and skin appearance was traditio-
volunteers noticed Voluplus™ effect and showed a positive response to
nally associated only negatively, with excess of fat, obesity or cellulite.
product application.
Nevertheless, apart from very important physiological functions,
In Noline™, macelignan is used in pure form, as a liposoluble
adipose tissue plays a very important, positive role in shaping different
powder. The product takes advantage of lipofilling effect and due to
parts of human body. The volume of adipose tissue determines the size
adipogenesis stimulation leads to increase of lipid accumulation,
and shape of bust and buttocks, as well as face contour and depth of
plumping the wrinkles, decreasing them and improving face contour.
wrinkles.
In a study with 25 female volunteers aged 35-50, the wrinkles decreased
The main cells of adipose tissue are adipocytes – mature, round
up to 19% after 28 days of application.
cells accumulating lipids in triglyceride form. They are formed through adipogenesis from preadipocytes – immature cells with a fusiform appearance, which are not able to store lipids. Adipogenesis is a process of cellular maturation, leading to increase of adipocyte number and adipose tissue volume. A appropriate stimulation of adipogenesis can give very beneficial
Control sample
results, useful in cosmetic preparations aimed to bust care and mature skin treatment. Brest volume is determined by the quantity and distribution of adipose tissue, which gives the bust its shape and softness. In case of mature skin, the atrophy of adipose tissue, caused by natural slowdown of adipogenesis, is a factor favoring wrinkle formation and increasing their visibility. Therefore, adipogenesis stimulation can lead to bust volume increase and improvement of breast shape, as well as
Sample with macelignan Fig. 1. Chemical structure of macelignan
Fig. 2. Lipid accumulation in adipocytes with macelignan
decrease of wrinkle depth (lipofilling effect).
Summary Macelignan – origin and properties Macelignan is a polyphenol compound isolated from the seeds of
Macelignan, used in Voluplus™ and Noline™, is a natural active ingredient which is proven to increase the density of adipose tissue,
mace (Myristica fragrans). Apart from multiple beneficial properties
causing a significant and noticeable bust volumizing and wrinkle
described in the literature (antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and antibac-
replenishing effect. It gives a possibility of safe, effective and natural
terial action), macelignan selectively stimulates the PPAR-y receptor,
bust appearance improvement and wrinkle decrease, without the need of
which controls the process of adipose cells formation. Such action leads
using drastic and invasive procedures.
to significant adipogenesis stimulation, confirmed in an in vitro assay carried out by Provital Group. The expression of aP2 gene (inherent to mature adipocytes) was quantified – in the cells with macelignan, gene expression increased by 600% compared to control. Additionally, the amount of triglycerides accumulated in the cells increased by 22%, which indicates that macelignan is a powerful adipogenesis activator. Volunteer D0
Cosmetic use of macelignan Macelignan was used in two actives developed by Provital Group – Voluplus™ and Noline™. Voluplus™ is a solution of macelignan in macadamia oil, and is dedicated for bust care as an active enhancing breast volume and shape. An in vivo study was conducted with a group of 30 volunteers, who applied a formula containing Voluplus™ for 28 days. After the trial, an increase of bust volume was registered, even by 18%. 80% of
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Increase after 28 days Volunteer at D28 Fig. 3. Bust volume improvement in one of the volunteers after 28 days of application a preparation with Voluplus™
Fig. 4. Wrinkle decrease in one of the volunteers after 28 days of application a preparation with Noline™
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34 | conferences, fairs, training
Congress Beauty Innovations HPCI
2010
On January 27-28 2010, Bio-Tech Consulting Sp. z o.o. organised the Beauty Innovations Congress in Warsaw.
On October 24-25th the second HCPI Congress was held in Warsaw, organised by SOFW in collaboration with the Polish Cosmetologists Association. During the meeting, there were discussions of problems concerning safety, active substances and other raw materials used in cosmetics, diet supplements and household chemistry.
The meeting started with a lecture by Dr Irena Eris, who talked of the challenges facing cosmetics manufacturers in the 21st century. There was then a lecture by Wojciech Ingot who presented the history of his company’s development in the context of effective competition on foreign markets. Also appearing was Ms Bożena Mirkowska of the Ava
An exhibition was held in parallel with the conference, at which dozens
Cosmetics Laboratory, who introduced the audience to the mysteries of
of leading companies from the cosmetics industry presented their
eco-certifying natural cosmetics.
solutions.
Representatives of companies open to innovation in the fields of
During the HPCI conference and the AFC (All For Cosmetics)
cosmetology, biotechnology and dermatology took part in the Congress.
conference which took place at the same time, the subjects touched
During the meeting development trends in the cosmetics industry were
upon included both the technological and scientific aspects of cosmetic
discussed.
products and household chemical products. There were discussions on skin ageing, new active substances, bioavailability and nanotechnology,
The Congress’s partners were the Polish Cosmetic Industry Association, Pure Beauty and the College of Health Care Cosmetology
as well as ecological cleaning, legal matters, recipes and the sensory properties of products.
in Białystok.
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The main carrier and creator of life proteins Mirosława Przybył Specialist of trade and marketing
As most of us know, hair and nails are alive and growing and must be properly nourished, just like many other tissues. They are products of human skin, and their basic building material is a special protein called keratin.
Keratin and silk in formulations for hair and nail care For the health of hair, a very important biological constituent of that protein is sulphur, bonded with amino acids – cysteine (accounting for about 17% of the hair content) and methionine (0.5%). Thus the strength and thickness of hair, as well as its shine and resilience, depend on whether the body receives an adequate amount of sulphur and other nutrients necessary for the formation of amino acids and proteins. Blood vessels supply a hair follicle with nutrients from our everyday food. It has been shown that hair which lacks basic building materials and the vitamins and minerals normally supplied by food becomes oily and unhealthy and starts to come out, whereas hair that receives a plentiful supply of the things it needs offers a beautiful shine and silky softness in return. What causes our hair and nails not always to look like we would want them to? Research shows that unsatisfactory appearance of hair and nails usually results from damage due to various agents of a mechanical and chemical nature (hair combing and brushing, UV radiation, environmental pollution, intensive hairdressing activities, aggressive washing and cleaning agents, etc.). Fortunately, hungry, malnourished and damaged hair and nails are able to obtain their essential building components from cosmetic formulations containing keratin, which very often, for marketing reasons or to emphasise its source (wool), is called cashmere. What does a hair consist of? A single hair, similarly to muscles, skin and nails, consists of amino acids – microscopic molecules from which proteins are built. The hair can contain up to 90 percent keratin amino acids, hence those molecules are of
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36 | raw materials
fundamental importance for its appearance and health. Over time, however, the amino acids which build the hair are lost. It has been shown that during an average three years of growth the amino acid content within a hair falls by 50 percent. The loss of these tiny molecules can seriously affect the hair’s appearance. Due to the decrease in amino acid content our hair tangles more easily and becomes rough and mat over time. A loss of amino acid can cause loss of shine and lower resistance to damage. Thus in order to supply the hair with exactly the same amino acids that it lost, and hence restore its healthy look, amino acid deficiency should be treated with daily use of formulations containing keratin. Keratin molecules penetrate deep inside the hair, filling defects in its structure. By using shampoos, conditioners and other hair care formulations containing keratin we allow our damaged hair to obtain its building material from them. What do nails consist of? Nails, similarly to hair, are cornified epidermis structures formed by live keratinocytes which transform into dead cornified cells. Cell walls become thicker, stiffen and join, thus forming a cornified layer of hard keratin. Again like the hair, nails are among those parts of the body with the greatest aesthetic importance. They also have many functions facilitating daily life. They make it easier to hold things, protect the finger pulps against injury, improve our ability to manipulate small items, and increase the sensitivity of touch. Furthermore their appearance reflects the condition of our body, and they can be used as a diagnostic tool for systemic and skin diseases. The appearance and shape of nails can be adversely affected by internal factors, such as incorrect diet and nutrient deficiencies, metabolic diseases and diseases of the internal organs, as well as by external factors: wind, moisture, temperature, detergents, etc. Particularly detergents in dish-washing and clothes-washing liquids, and some cleaning agents in (for example) soaps, bath lotions and some nail varnishes, can dehydrate the epidermis and the nails, causing them to crack. Yet well-cared-for hands and nails are assets and something each of us can take pride in. Thus we should maintain a correct diet rich in iron, vitamins, magnesium, silicon and zinc, and try to avoid all chemical cleaning agents that do not contain active substances protecting our epidermis and nails against dehydration (such as silk proteins, keratin or soluble collagen). If we have already allowed our hand skin and nails to become dry and cracked, we should use cosmetic formulations containing the natural building components of our skin and nails, i.e. soluble collagen, elastin and keratin. If we want to regenerate and nourish damaged and dry skin or its structures – hair and nails – we should supply them with collagen, elastin and keratin – their own building proteins, to regenerate their damaged structure.
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raw materials | 37 Keratin Keratin is a fibrous protein of the epidermis and its structures, such as hair and nails. It is an insoluble protein, distinguished from other proteins by its content of cysteine, an amino acid containing large amounts of sulphur. Keratin in the form of water-soluble hydrolysates is widely used in formulations for: 1. hair care Molecules of keratin hydrolysate, by building themselves into places of hair damage, make up deficiencies in natural components of the hair structure. Due to this action the hair is visibly strengthened, its volume increases, and its shine and healthy look is restored. This characteristic of keratin hydrolysates is used in the production of formulations with a strongly regenerating effect (formulations for weak, damaged, dry and cracking hair). By forming protective colloids, keratin hydrolysates protect hair against the harmful effects of oxidizing agents (dyes, hair bleaches) and reducing agents (permanent wave). Use of keratin hydrolysates in formulations for hair regeneration and care helps to maintain a correct level of skin and hair hydration and, because the sulphur content has a beneficial effect on skin by healing inflammatory conditions, can be used successfully in shampoos and anti-dandruff formulations. The addition of keratin hydrolysate to shampoos reduces the aggressive effect of traditional washing agents, thus the shampoo has a delicate action and can be used daily. Keratin hydrolysate has very strong foam-forming properties, and thus it is recommended for the production of all types of formulations in the form of mousses (balms, hair sprays and dyes, permanent wave lotions, shaving formulations and aftershaves). 2. nail care Keratin hydrolysate regenerates the structure of a damaged nail plate and hardens and strengthens it, preventing breaking and splitting. It is particularly recommended for hand and nail creams and nail conditioners for nails that are: • yellow with discolourations, • damaged and splitting, • thin and prone to cracking, • breakable, • with dry and cracking cuticles, and for formulations masking nail plate unevenness and forming a base for varnish. Applications: • Hair and nail conditioners and sprays/varnishes • Aftershave lotions • Shampoos and anti-dandruff formulations • Hair styling formulations • Permanent wave and hair bleaching lotions • Mousses • Regenerating hair conditioners (of „liquid hair” type) • Hand and nail creams • Hair dyes • Formulations for intensive regeneration of damaged hair • Conditioners
Keratin in hair care formulations for hairdressing As noted above, hair belongs to the class of epidermal skin structures, as do nails and mammalian fur. Each hair consists of an external part – the shaft – and of a root hidden in the skin. In a hair follicle matrix, forming part of a hair root, keratin is produced – a protein belonging to the scleroprotein group. Keratin is also a key constituent of the hair shaft, responsible for physical and chemical properties of the hair, as well as for its appearance, condition and quality. The most important structural part of the hair shaft – the cortex – is built of twisted keratin fibres cross-linked with di-sulphide bonds. Keratin is also a component of the outer hair cuticle, whose condition is responsible for the hair’s shine, smoothness, and sensitivity to various harmful external factors.
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38 | raw materials bonds which stabilise them. Besides the ability to fill defects in the hair structures and to link split chains, the keratin hydrolysates have moisturising and moisture content regulating properties, thus maintaining a proper water content inside the keratin fibres and a correct level of skin moisture, protecting the hair and skin against excessive drying and giving the hair buoyancy, elasticity and softness. Another property of keratin hydrolysates is that they protect the hair against harmful effects of chemicals both occurring in the environment and used in hairdressing (oxidising agents – dyes, bleaches – and reducing agents – permanent wave) by forming protective colloids on the hair surface, The natural keratin protein cannot be introduced into cosmetic formulations without previous chemical changes, mainly due to its very poor
remaining on the surface even after the cosmetic containing the keratin hydrolysate (shampoo, hair balm, lotion, etc.) has been rinsed off.
solubility in water and complete insolubility in alcohols and fats. Thus in cosmetic formulations keratin hydrolysates are used, these being soluble in both water and alcohols.
Soluble silk protein Silk protein belongs to the class of proteins which are “foreign” to the
Keratin hydrolysates are valuable classic active substances with
human body; however, due to its properties and the significant similarity
conditioning and regenerating properties in hair care cosmetics. Their
of its chemical composition to proteins present in the skin and hair, it is
advantage over other compounds with similar action comes in their ability
often used in cosmetic formulations. Furthermore its electrostatic charge is
to penetrate inside and form permanent bonds with the keratin chains of the
opposite to that of the skin and hair, which means that a cosmetic containing
hair, thus improving its appearance and characteristics: tensile strength,
silk protein will adhere strongly to the surface.
stiffness, susceptibility to curling and setting. By building molecules into damaged areas of the hair cuticle, caused by damaging chemical, physical (sun, wind) and mechanical (combing, brushing) agents, keratin hydrolysates make up for deficiencies in the
Hydrolysed silk protein has a wide range of molecular weights, from free amino acids to polypeptides with longer chains. Thus it combines wetting, film-forming and regenerating properties. In hair care formulations the silk protein amino acids penetrating into the
natural components forming the hair structure. Due to this action the hair is
hair and the scalp epidermis increase moisture capture, and thus improve the
markedly strengthened and its volume increases visibly, and its shine and
hair’s susceptibility to setting, prevent it picking up static, give it elasticity,
healthy look is restored.
healthy appearance, softness and a silky shine, and ensure a pleasant and
Keratin hydrolysates show the highest affinity to significantly damaged and weakened hair, while healthy hair absorbs them only in small quantities. The phenomenon whereby defects in the keratin hair structure are filled
prolonged feeling of freshness for the scalp. In hair conditioners (“liquid hair”), in the presence of keratin to supplement deficiencies in the natural components forming the hair structures, the
in by keratin hydrolysates is used in products for care and regeneration of
hydrolysed silk protein intensively regenerates weak hair and hair which has
weak, damaged, dry and breakable hair after intensive hairdressing activities
been damaged by hairdressing activities and harmful environmental agents.
such as permanent wave, dyeing and bleaching. Particularly essential is the
The long-chain polypeptides of high molecular weight present in the
presence of keratin hydrolysates in specific hair care formulations such as
hydrolysed silk protein have strong film-forming properties. They form a kind of
permanent wave lotions.
very thin film/protective membrane on the hair/skin surface, thus increasing the
The process of permanent waving uses strong chemicals to break
sensation of pleasantness to touch and the hair’s susceptibility to combing.
di-sulphide bonds between keratin chains and then recreates them, and
Furthermore, the layer present on the hair surface can have yet another
always carries a risk of serious damage to the hair structure. Thus in the
function, apart from maintaining the water and fat balance. Namely it forms a
permanent waving process the keratin hydrolysates are an ideal conditioning
special kind of surface “sealing”, preventing the entry of chemical substances
and regenerating agent because they form strong permanent bonds with the
carried by the air from industrial pollution and traffic fumes. The mechanism
hair, analogous to natural ones. In this situation even multiple hair washing
behind this property has not been fully explained; it is not based solely on the
does not cause removal or washing-out of the attached keratin segments.
mechanical blocking of harmful chemicals. Complex processes related to the
This effect is observed, however, only when the keratin hydrolysate is added
chemical activity of the hydrolysate layer are probably at work. This property
directly to the waving-reducing lotion or to the hair rinse immediately before
of silk hydrolysates is extremely important for those living in large industrial
fixing of the wave. Addition of keratin hydrolysate to the fixate or even daily
agglomerations.
use of lotions and conditioners containing keratin hydrolysate does not provide such a long-lasting effect. Keratin hydrolysates not only have a
Applications:
protective and regenerating action during the permanent waving process,
• Hair and nail conditioners
but also have a positive effect on the permanence of the wave. Systematic
• Mascaras
rinsing of the hair with lotions with high keratin hydrolysate content or use of
• Skin and hair care gels
specialist keratin conditioners stops the natural process of gradual uncurling
• Aftershave lotions and balms
of the waves caused by splitting and breaking of the di-sulphide keratin
• Hand creams
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• Hair serum, conditioners, gels, mousses and sprays • Hair bleaching formulations • Delicate shampoos for daily use • Hair dyes • Conditioning and moisturising shampoos • Colouring shampoos • Conditioning balms • Conditioners of “liquid hair” type • Nourishing complexes in ampoules • Hair shines • Lotions • Aftershave lotions and balms • Shampoos, conditioners, balms and masks revitalising weak, dry and damaged hair • Formulations for hair setting and styling Protein dosing A recommended dose, both for a single protein and for a whole set, is on average 2-5% for proteins and hydrolysates in solution and 0.2–1% for powdered proteins and hydrolysates. Thus when using sets of protein hydrolysates in production, both the type and ratios of particular proteins should be determined individually, depending on the main desired characteristic of the finished product. Furthermore, when selecting the ratio between proteins and their concentrations in a hair formulation, account should be taken of their purpose and the time for which they will remain on the hair. When a formulation is to stay on the hair a long time (as with hair spray), the proteins’ concentration can be much lower than in the case of mousses, which are usually rinsed off the hair after use. If formulations are intended to have strong regenerating properties (as with hair masks), the protein concentration can be as high as 5%. Generally speaking, protein products from the scleroprotein group – traditional natural active substances – are added to hair care formulations for many purposes, ranging from maintaining adequate water content in the hair to strengthening and regenerating the structure of damaged hair and protecting it against the harmful effects of chemical and mechanical agents and the action of the weather. In particular: • Keratin hydrolysates, having conditioning and regenerating properties, strengthen and regenerate the damaged hair structure, restoring its shine and healthy appearance (particularly recommended for hair which has been damaged by chemical and mechanical agents and the action of the weather). • Soluble silk proteins increase hair volume, improve the hair’s susceptibility to combing, decrease roughness giving the hair a silky touch, and also have an antistatic effect. • Soluble collagen has mainly moisturising effects (particularly recommended for dry hair). • Elastin hydrolysates can stimulate hair growth and prevent alkaline swelling of the hair; they moisturise the hair and increase its elasticity and buoyancy.
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ADVERTISEMENT
• Permanent wave lotions
40 40 | raw surowce materials
The “Tree of life” in Morocco
Known as the “Tree of Life” to the Berbers for the many health benefits it brings, this spiny tree (argania spinosa) grows exclusively in the south-west of Morocco in the Souss Plain, where there are 21 million trees covering almost 800 000 hectares. Distributor in Poland:
As a rare and endangered species, the argan forest was declared an International Biosphere Reserve by UNESCO in 1999.
The argan tree can reach a height of between 8 and 10 metres and some
The seeds are ground to a paste using a rotary hand stone and a quern.
have been known to live as long as 200 years. The root system extends
Water is then added to the paste and it is squeezed by hands to extract the oil.
to a considerable depth, which helps to protect against soil erosion and
This manual process extracts 70% of the oil from the seeds.
hold back the encroachment by the Sahara Desert. The tree bears hermaphrodite flowers which appear in May or June and are greenish yellow, or sometimes white. These are followed by the
The miraculous oil Argan oil has always been used by the Berbers of the Atlas Moun-
fruit. The fruit is an oval berry, the size and shape of a large olive, which
tains as protection from the harsh climatic conditions; the strong winds
contains a nut with one or two seeds.
and the burning sun. Throughout their lives, they use it for:
A tree can produce up to 8 kg of fruit per year, i.e. an average of 128 000 tonnes per year for all the Moroccan argan trees.
• massaging babies and infants, • healing over chicken pox spots, • treating eczema and adolescent acne,
Argan oil – an ancestral tradition The production of argan oil and its by-products is the preserve of the Berber women, and the techniques of argan oil extraction are based on
• softening the skin of pregnant women and preventing stretch marks, • massaging into the joints to treat rheumatism in adults, • cooking in traditional Moroccan dishes.
traditional knowledge that has been passed from mothers to daughters of Berber families down the centuries. The result is a miracle oil, which finally found its way across the Mediterranean to Europe and the rest of the world a few years ago. Between June and August, they harvest the ripe fruit that has fallen to the ground. This fruit is dried for several weeks in the sun, then the women crack the nut between two rocks to extract
Benefits cosmetics Argan oil contains exceptionally high levels of essential fatty acids, including linoleic acid (omega-6), which protect and repair the skin. These fatty acids also stimulate intracellular oxygenation, helping to restore the vital balance of water and fats in the hydro lipid film of the skin. Essential fatty acids also counter drying and loss of elasticity in skin,
the precious, oil-rich seeds. The nut is reputed to be sixteen times
helping to prevent or delay wrinkling; the skin becomes more supple and
harder than a hazelnut.
more toned.
This work is hard: in one working day, a woman can produce from 1
This action against skin ageing is reinforced by very high levels
to 1.5kg of seeds. 100kg of ripe fruit will become 60kg of dry fruit: 30 kg
of vitamin E (tocopherols). Vitamin E has moisturising and healing
of dry pulp and 30 kg of nuts. Of the 30kg of nuts, only 3kg of seeds will
properties and is one of the most powerful biological anti-oxidants in
be extracted. That 3kg of seed will provide around 1 liter of oil after cold
neutralizing free radicals. It also protects cell membranes from lipid
pressing.
oxidation, thereby slowing the skin’s ageing process.
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41
”We reap what our fathers have sown and we sow for our children”
Cooking
• Its seeds are used in argan oil production.
Argan oil is also a common ingredient in tajines and couscous. It was recently introduced to European cuisine by top chefs and it is now used as a base for many types of seasonings and can also be combined with fish and meats.
• Its deep roots mean that it is an excellent barrier against the spread of the desert. • It provides shade for the fauna and flora that balance the region’s ecosystem.
Argan oil is often served with honey to guests in Morocco, as a sign
• Thousands of people earn their living from its cultivation, whether
of hospitality, in the same way as tea.
directly or indirectly.
Oil Mill
This 80-million-year-old tree species is nonetheless threatened, and
Marogania has a fully-equipped facility for grinding the seeds to
each year around 600 hectares of argan trees disappear. In spite of its
extract the oil using the cold-press process. This facility is 20 km from
resistance to drought (it can survive dormant with negligible water for
Agadir in Morocco, in the heart of the forest of Argan Trees.
a dozen years), the density of trees in the argan forest in Morocco was
Marogania can produce 300 tons of argan oil per year, and is the leading producer of high quality and competitively priced argan oil in
reduced by two thirds in a short space of fifty years. Marogania is reviewing how to best deliver a programme of
Morocco, meeting the needs of the rapidly growing overseas market
sustainable development in Morocco, to apply a reserve it has already
whilst supporting the local Berber population and helping to promote
started to build up. It is considering programmes that seek:
and maintain the preservation of the forest of Argan trees.
• To encourage the local population to cultivate and to protect argan trees, through a programme of education about the benefits of argan
Sustainable development The argan tree has been a versatile part of Berber village life and its economy for a long time: • Its strong wood (it is also called the Moroccan “Ironwood” tree) is used for construction or fuel. • Its leaves are used to feed goats.
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trees, in terms of combating the spread of the desert and the part the argan-based economy can play in slowing the rural exodus. • To participate in a programme of reforestation to ensure that the tree density is maintained and increased for future generations. • To provide for literacy classes for the women working in the argan industry; the majority of Moroccan women are illiterate.
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42 | raw materials
Psychological stress & cutaneous disorders what natural cosmetic solution? David BOUDIER, Marie MAGNOL, Nathalie SOLINGEAS, Magalie PINEL and Brigitte CLOSS SILAB France
Plague of a generation, stress is everywhere in our hectic lives. We have all used the term “stress” to define what we feel (acceleration of the heartbeat, increased perspiration, etc.) in unsettling or unexpected situations. We have Hans Selye to thank for popularizing the idea of physiological stress and showing that stress could have an impact on health. In the 1920s he studied the body’s reaction or common response, subsequently known as the general adaptation syndrome or stress response to varied stimuli.
Although stress often has a negative connotation, it was originally
products making varied claims, including protection of the skin against
a gift of nature. It is an evolutionary adaptation mechanism enabling
environmental stresses and stimulation of well-being through pleasure
individuals to adapt to any changes in their environment, whether
molecules, and multiplying salons and spas for restoring a state of
physical, social and/or psychological.
relaxation and serenity.
But what about the skin? Our bodily envelope also has a system of
In this paper, we will first tackle an original approach: based on
adaptation to stress in order to resist the diverse extrinsic or intrinsic
our own investigations conducted in our biometrology laboratory, on
aggressions which affect it and thus maintain its biological functions
the impact of psychological stress on skin parameters. Secondly, we
with respect to its environment.1 And everything points to the skin
will investigate the benefic effect of ZENICYL® (Oligopeptides from
having a stress ‘capital’, exhaustion of which leads to changes in skin
germinated millet seeds (Panicum miliaceum), INCI name: Hydrolyzed
parameters and to skin ageing.
millet), a novel natural active ingredient, on these cutaneous parameters
More recently it has been shown that psychological stress is also
modified by the psychological stress.
associated with biological markers of accelerated cell and tissue ageing: cellular immune function, oxidative stress and telomerase activity.2 It is widely accepted that psychological stress also impacts skin parameters and that skin disorders or dermatological diseases such as psoriasis or
Study of the influence of psychological stress on skin parameters: Although psychological stress is often perceived as too subjective or unquantifiable, many studies have nevertheless investigated the impact
atopic dermatitis are exacerbated in stressed individuals.3,4 The skin, the nervous system and the immune system are in fact
of emotional status on the physiology of the skin.
intimately linked, both physiologically and anatomically, as part of a “neuro-immuno-cutaneous” system.4 Researchers are now attempting
The radiance of the complexion, an indication of the general state
to measure the impact of this system on the physiology of the skin and
of health, depends on the emotional and hormonal state, on tiredness
understand how psychological problems can affect the skin.
and anxiety, and on environmental factors.7,8 The barrier function and its
Nowadays, we know that there is a constant dialogue between brain and skin, intimately linked by a set of biochemical secretions. When 5,6
repair are also altered by psychological stress (sleep deprivation, public or work-related interview).9,10,11
one communicates stress, overwork, depression, the other responds by lack of radiance and a long face. The cosmetics and beauty industry has already been paying particular attention to the phenomenon of stress for several years, supplying
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In view of these observations, in our biometrology laboratory we have studied the influence of emotional stress on the skin parameters of human volunteers.
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43
Figure 1. Diagram representative of the in-vivo approach of cosmetic benefits of ZENICYL®
A preliminary study assessed the stress level of the panelists on the basis of a questionnaire incorporating questions relating to: • work-related stress (workloads and working conditions, responsibili-
Comparative study of skin complexion between young stressed and unstressed groups and anti-stress effect of Zenicyl®
ties, recognition, etc.), • stress of daily life (health, family life, lack of time, overwork, etc.), • environmental stress (smoking, pollution, food, quality of sleep, UV
Protocol: This study was conducted on 46 healthy young female volunteers.
exposure).
The questionnaire analysis enabled two groups to be differentiated on
This study enabled the volunteers to be divided into persons scored
the basis of stress levels: the stressed group and the unstressed group.
as “stressed” and persons scored as “unstressed”. The assessment questionnaire was compiled drawing on various sources such as Statistics Canada (2007 Canadian Community Health
After this initial phase, we studied the anti-stress effect of ZENICYL® formulated at 3% in an emulsion in terms of the reduction of differences in the skin complexion parameters between after the 2 groups.
Survey) and the INRS, the French national institute for research and safety (“Et s’il y avait du stress dans votre entreprise ?” (What if there
The mean ages of the two groups were:
was stress in your company?), 2006).
• Group A – unstressed: 23 volunteers of mean age 42 ± 8.
Certain skin parameters were then measured in these two groups,
• Group B – stressed: 23 volunteers of mean age 40 ± 7.
stressed and unstressed, to determine whether there were inter-group differences. The results of this study showed that: • skin complexion, assessed by the radiance of the skin, was altered
The complexion was evaluated blind by an expert previously trained to judge different parameters of radiance of the complexion. The parame-
in stressed persons in comparison with unstressed persons
ter of radiance was determined using a scale of 1 to 10. Radiance of the
(P=0.0499).
skin is characteristic of a radiant complexion. The higher the intensity
• microrelief of the glabella resulting from contractions due to stress
of light reflected from prominent zones of the face, the more luminous
was more pronounced in stressed persons in comparison with
the skin. This parameter was determined on the following zones: cheek
unstressed persons (P=0.0902).
bones, forehead, chin, eyes.
Approach for studying the cosmetic benefits of ZENICYL®
Evaluation was conducted before and after 28 days of twice-daily applications of ZENICYL® at 3% in an emulsion and vs. placebo.
In order to cope with cutaneous disorders induced by psychological stress, our approach consisted in testing ZENICYL® first on cutaneous parameters modified by stress in each age group: (Figure 1) • radiance of the complexion for the stressed group of mean age 40 years (young)
Results: The results of the radiance parameter evaluated in the unstressed group A (treated with placebo) and stressed group B (treated with ZENICYL®) at D0 and D28 are shown in table 1 and in figure 2.
• skin relief of the glabella for the stressed group of mean age 60 years (mature) Secondly, we tested ZENICYL® on mature stressed group comparatively to the unstressed young group, in order to demonstrate an anti-stress / anti-age effect. Statistical analysis: for all the following results, study of the distribution of the populations and the comparison of the variances of two independent samples were first investigated before studying the significance of results by using the software Statgraphics™ Centurion, release XV.
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Group A: unstressed – placebo zone Group B: stressed – ZENICYL® zone P Group A / Group B
Radiance (AU) D0 D28 6,1 6,1 5,5 5,9 0,0499 0,2170
P / J0 0,5000 0,0259
Table 1: Changes in the radiance parameter (in AU) at D0 and D28 for unstressed group A (treated with the placebo) and stressed group B (treated with ZENICYL® formulated at 3%)
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44 | raw materials
Figure 2: Changes in the radiance parameter (in AU) at D0 and D28 for the stressed group B treated with ZENICYL® formulated at 3%. Comparison with the unstressed group A treated with the placebo at D28 *: significant difference according to Student’s t test (P < 0.05) ns: non-significant difference
In the conditions of this study, after 28 of twice-daily applications on
Replicas of the glabella and digital photos were taken in each group
stressed group B, ZENICYL formulated at 3% in an emulsion, signifi-
before and after 42 days of twice-daily treatment. Silicone polymer
cantly improves radiance of the skin (+6.3%, P = 0.0259).
replicas were made of the glabella. They were then observed and
®
ZENICYL thus restores to stressed individuals a radiance of the ®
analyzed with a profilometer equipped with an image analysis system
complexion comparable to that of the unstressed group; the difference
and its software (S.I.A.: software image analysis). The gray level analysis
between the two groups is no longer significant on D28 (P = 0.2170).
of the resulting computer image provides various parameters using QUANTIRIDES 99 ® (MONADERM) software. The parameter of total
Comparative study of the microrelief of the glabella between mature stressed and unstressed groups and anti-stress effect of Zenicyl®
wrinkled surface (mm2) was used for this study. Photographs of the face were taken with a Visia-CR® (Canfield, USA). The Visia-CR® magnifies the zone studied and facilitates repositioning for photos at successive time points.
Protocols: This study first compared two groups of same ages but different
The repositioning of each image was also verified by displaying the initial photos on the screen at D42.
stress levels with respect to glabella microrelief parameters to determine if degradation of this microrelief could be accentuated by the impact of psychological stress.
Results: The results of the total wrinkled surface parameter for the group 1 (mature stressed skin) and for the group 2 (mature unstressed skin) at D0
The two groups had the following composition:
and D42 are shown in table 2 and in figure 3.
• Group 1: 13 mature stressed volunteers, mean age 62 ± 3, • Group 2: 17 mature unstressed volunteers, mean age 62 ± 3. Total wrinkled surface (mm2)
The zone of the glabella was selected because forehead wrinkles and especially vertical wrinkles between the eyebrows arise from contractions due to stress. This study was conducted on 30 female volunteers. The stress level of each group was first assessed using the questionnaire. After this initial phase, we examined the anti-stress effect of ZENICYL formulated at 3% in an emulsion, in terms of the reduction of ®
differences in the microrelief of the glabella between the 2 groups.
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Group 1: mature stressed – ZENICYL® zone Group 2: mature unstressed – placebo zone P group 1 / group 2
D0
D42
P / D0
7,68
5,79
0,0149
5,45
5,72
0,6727
0,0902
0,4808
Table 2. Changes in the parameter of the microrelief of the glabella at D0 and D42 for group 1 (mature stressed skin) treated with ZENICYL® formulated at 3% and group 2 (mature unstressed skin) treated with the placebo
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Figure 3: Changes in the parameter of the glabella microrelief at D0 and D42 for group 1 (mature stressed skin) treated with ZENICYL® formulated at 3%. Comparison with the group 2 (mature unstressed skin) treated with the placebo, at D42 *: significant difference according to Student’s t test (P < 0.05), ns: non significant difference according to the Student’s t-test
Photographs
In the conditions of this study, after 42 days of twice-daily applica-
Treatment with ZENICYL® formulated at 3%
tions on stressed group 1, ZENICYL® formulated at 3% in an emulsion
(mature stressed group 1)
significantly reduces the total wrinkled surface by 25% (Figure 4) (P = 0.0149). This effect was observed in 77% of the volunteers. ZENICYL® thus returns the microrelief of the stressed group 1 to an appearance close to that of the unstressed group 2 of same ages, the difference between the two groups is no longer significant at D42 (P = 0.4808).
D0
D42
Photos of replicas
Comparative study of the microrelief of the glabella between young unstressed and mature stressed groups: anti-stress/anti-age effect of ZENICYL® This study first compared three groups of different age and stress
Treatment with ZENICYL® formulated at 3%
levels with respect to glabella microrelief parameters to determine if
(mature stressed group 1)
degradation of this microrelief with age could be accentuated by the impact of psychological stress. The three groups had the following composition: • Group 1: 13 mature stressed volunteers, mean age 62 ± 3, • Group 2: 17 mature unstressed volunteers, mean age 62 ± 3, • Group 3: 16 young unstressed volunteers, mean age 46 ± 4,
D0
D42
Figure 4. Visualization of the anti-wrinkle effect of ZENICYL® formulated at 3% on the glabella on the group 1 (mature stressed group).
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The zone of the glabella was selected because forehead wrinkles and especially vertical wrinkles between the eyebrows arise from contractions due to stress. This study was conducted on 46 female volunteers. The stress level of each group was first assessed using the questionnaire.
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The results show the existence of a significant difference in the parameter of total wrinkled surface characteristic of glabella microrelief between the 2 non-stressed groups but with a 15 years age difference (P = 0.0884). Modeling – step 2: comparison of glabella microrelief between 2 groups of volunteers of different stress levels and ages (15 years difference) Figure 6 summarizes the results for total wrinkled surface determined in group 1 (mature stressed skin) and group 3 (young unstressed skin) on D0. These results show a significant difference for the parameter of total wrinkled surface characteristic of glabella microrelief between group 1 (mature stressed Figure 5. Comparison of glabella microrelief on D0 between group 2 (mature unstressed skin) and group 3 (young unstressed skin). **: significant difference according to the Wilcoxon-Mann-Whitney W test (P < 0.10)
skin) and group 3 (young unstressed skin) (P = 0.0070). These two modeling steps confirm that psychological stress accentuates the impact of aging on glabella
After this initial phase, we examined the anti-stress/anti-age effect
microrelief in the group of mature stressed skin.
of ZENICYL® formulated at 3% in an emulsion, in terms of the reduction
Step 3: Effect of ZENICYL® in group 1 (mature stressed skin):
of differences in the microrelief of the glabella between group 1 (mature
Figure 7 summarizes the results for total wrinkled surface determined
stressed skin) and group 3 (young unstressed skin). Replicas of the glabella and digital photos were taken in each group before and after 42 days of twice-daily treatment. Analysis of replicas and digital photos was conducted as described before. Modeling – step 1: comparison of glabella microrelief between
in group 1 (mature stressed skin) and group 3 (young unstressed skin) on D0 and 42. In the conditions of this study, after 42 days of twice daily applications by group 1 (mature and stressed skin), ZENICYL® formulated at 3% in an emulsion significantly reduces the total wrinkled surface by
2 groups of unstressed volunteers but of different ages (15 years
25% (P = 0.0149). This effect was observed in 77% of the volunteers.
difference)
ZENICYL® thus restores the microrelief of group 1 (stressed) to an
Figure 5 summarizes the results for total wrinkled surface determined in each of the 2 groups of D0.
appearance close to that of group 3 (non-stressed, 15 years younger). The difference between the two groups is no longer significant on D42 (P = 0.1373).
Discussion: In the literature, two main approaches, physiological and/or psychological, exist for evaluating the level of stress in volunteers. Physiologically, it consists in measuring amounts of salivary or blood cortisol, usually referred to as the stress hormone, or other biological markers well known as being modulated in case of stress. Psychologically, some questionnaires are available and were used to evaluate the level of psychological stress of volunteers before studying the link between the perceived psychological stress and the skin barrier recovery, the immune function or exacerbation of diseases like psoriasis (Profile of Mood States, Perceived Stress Scale, Presumptive Stressful Life Events…).11,12,14 The primary aim of our study was to measure the impact of psychological stress on skin parameters in Figure 6: Comparison of glabella microrelief on D0 between group 1 (mature stressed skin) and group 3 (young unstressed skin). *: significant difference according to modified Student’s t test (P < 0.05)
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healthy individuals. Our first approach was carried out in order to pre-select healthy volunteers according
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raw materials | 47 their level of stress measured by using our own questionnaire (very close to those used in literature) incorporating questions relating to work-related stress, stress of daily life and environmental stress. This investigation enabled us to separate volunteers into two groups of stressed and unstressed volunteers in each age bracket. Secondly, we investigated different skin parameters and we have shown that: The radiance parameter, measured by a sensorial approach, between two groups of young skin (mean age 40 years) and different stress levels has shown the existence of a significant difference in this parameter (P = 0.0499) between a group of stressed volunteers and a group of unstressed volunteers of same ages, The skin microrelief on the glabella between two groups of mature skin (mean age 62 years) of different stress levels has shown the existence of a significant difference for the parameter of total wrinkled surface (P = 0.0902) between a group of stressed volunteers and a group of unstressed volunteers of same ages. These previous results served in development of ZENICYL
®
a new patented natural active ingredient, according to an original
Figure 7: Changes in total wrinkled surface (in mm²) on D0 and D42 for group 1 (mature stressed skin) treated with ZENICYL® formulated at 3%. Comparison to group 3 (young unstressed skin) treated with the placebo on D42. *: significant difference according to Student’s t test (P < 0.05) ns: non-significant difference according to the modified Student’s t test
in-vivo approach. Indeed, we highlighted numbers of cosmetics benefits on stressed volunteers after treatment with ZENICYL®. Finally, in order to define the mechanism of action of this natural active ingredient, we carried out a comparison of the behaviour of stressed
References: 1 2
fibroblasts and aged fibroblasts using microarrays (data not shown). Our genomic analysis showed that some genes involved in the architecture of the matrix and in cell defense, were down-regulated in both stressed and aged cells, demonstrating that stress applied to young fibroblasts causes cellular responses that are identical in certain aspects to those of aged fibroblasts. In this context, ZENICYL® tested at 0.5% on stressed fibroblasts and compared with untreated stressed fibroblasts, significantly stimulates the expression of
3 4 5 6
mRNA encoding collagen V, perlecan, HAS-2, protectin and HIF-1α. ZENICYL® tends to restore the expression of these various biological
7
markers to levels similar to those of young fibroblasts, thus preventing stress-induced cell ageing.
8
Conclusion:
9
Thanks to a new approach for investigating the impact of psychological stress on skin parameters, we have shown that radiance of the
10
complexion but also wrinkles of the glabella were negatively modified in case of psychological stress. Interestingly, the innovative, patented and natural active ingredient ZENICYL®, composed of a purified fraction
11
of oligopeptides from germinated millet (Panicum miliaceum) seeds improves these cutaneous parameters in stressed volunteers. ZENICYL® helps the skin to recover from daily stress, resources overworked, tired skin and to reactivate its radiance to offer a second youth. Then,
12 13
ZENICYL® is the perfect active to restore a 60 year’s old stressed skin into a 45 year’s old unstressed skin. “Reproduced with permission from Personal Care magazine”. Original source: Personal care-issue November 2009.”
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Barouki R.. Stress oxydant et veillissement. Médecine/Sciences, 22, 266-272 (2006) Epel E.S., Blackburn E.H., Lin J., Dhabhar F.S., Adler N.E., Morrow J.D., Cawthon R.M.. Accelerated telomere shortening in response to life stress. PNAS, 101(49), 17312-17315 (2004) Hosoi J.. Stress and the skin. International J. of Cosmetic Science, 28, 243-246 (2006) Misery L.. Les nerfs à fl eur de peau. International J. of Cosmetic Science, 24, 111-116 (2002) Slominski A.. Neuroendocrine System of the Skin. Dermatology, 211(3), 199-208 (2005) Arck P.C., Slominski A., Theoharides C.T., Peters E.M.J., Paus R.. Neuroimmunology of Stress: Skin Takes Center Stage. J. Invest. Dermatol. 126, 1697-1704 (2006) Petitjean A., Sainthillier J.-M., Mac-Mary S., Muret P., Closs B., Gharbi T., Humbert P.. Skin radiance: how to quantify? Validation of an optical method. Skin Research and Technology, 13, 2-8 (2007) Tosti A. Comment améliorer l’éclat du teint en pratique quotidienne. 20th World Congress of Dermatology, Paris (2002) and BEDC, 10, 7, 216-219 (2002) Altemus M, Rao B., Dhabhar F.S., Ding W. Granstein R.D. Stressinduced changes in skin barrier function in healthy women. J. Invest Dermatol, 117(2), 309-317 (2001) Choi E.-H., Brown B.E., Crumrine D., Chang S., Man M.-Q., Elias P.M., Feingold K.R.. Mechanisms by Which Psychologic Stress Alters Cutaneaous Permeability Barrier Homeostasis and Stratum Corneum Integrity. J. Invest Dermatol, 124,587-595 (2005) Garg A., Chren M.-M., Sands L.P., Matsui M.S., Marenus K.D., Feingold K.R., Elias P.M.; Psychological Stress Perturbs Epidermal Permeability Barrier Homeostasis. Arch Dermatol, 137, 53-59 (2001) Muizzudin N, Ph.D, Estée Lauder, HBA presentation Sept 2008, Psychological stressors and the skin. S.K. Malhotra, Vivek Mehta. Roel of stressful events in induction or exacerbation of psoriasis and chronic urticaria. Indian J Dermatol Venereol Leprol 2008, 74: 594-9. C.E Kleyn, L. Schneider, R. Saraceno, C. Mantovani, HL Richards, DG Fortune, M Cumberbatch, RJ Dearman, G Terenghi, I Kimber and C.E.M Griffi ths. The effects of acute social stress on epidermal Langerhans’ cell frequency and expression of cutaneous neuropeptides. J. Invest Dermatol. 128, 1273-1279 (2008).
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Cosmetics ingredients that help counter the symptoms of ageing Anna Oborska DChem Polish Association of Cosmetics and Home Care Products Producers
Ageing is a natural process which, unfortunately, we cannot avoid. All the organs of our body grow old, and that includes the skin. So why are we so afraid of the first symptoms of skin ageing and the first wrinkles, which we go to such lengths to cover up? It would seem to be the media that are largely responsible â&#x20AC;&#x201C; it is they who constantly bombard us with advertisements featuring people who are eternally young, who have managed to turn back time by using some product or other. All this creates the definite impression that the world belongs to young people without wrinkles, with skin that looks youthful and fresh. And here we have to ask the question: can we stop the march of time? Of course we cannot; but we can try to protect our skin against certain factors that speed up its ageing processes.
Processes associated with ageing are to a large extent genetically
Apart from its beneficial effects, such as synthesis of vitamin D
conditioned. We must recognize, however, that there exist a number
and improved circulation, ultraviolet radiation may also be the cause
of exogenic factors which further accelerate the skin ageing process.
of a large number of unfavourable and even harmful processes. It
To protect the skin against influences like free radicals, it is
may do damage to nucleic acids, thus causing cancers. It is now
necessary to use appropriate cosmetic formulations.
known that ultraviolet radiation can cause inflammation of the skin,
As a result of ageing a number of changes take place progres-
and also bring about photoageing. Photoageing of the skin is asso-
sively in the skin. We can observe a slowing in tissue renewal and
ciated with a number of changes taking place under the influence of
processes of proliferation in the basal layer of the epidermis, and
ultraviolet. Many physiological mechanisms become handicapped,
a reduction in resistance and the ability to regenerate in case of
protective and regulatory mechanisms gradually weaken, and tissue
damage. Significant changes are observed in the dermis â&#x20AC;&#x201C; collagen
renewal becomes slower. The shape of epidermal cells changes, an
fibres undergo slow degeneration, and the process of collagen
increased number of melanocytes is observed, and the quantity of
synthesis by fibroblasts slows down. Proteolytic processes intensify,
Langerhans cells decreases. Significant adverse changes also occur
resulting in more rapid decomposition of collagen and elastin, so we
in the structure of collagen and elastin, and telangiectasias appear.
may notice a decrease in the elasticity of the skin and the appearance
Free radicals, formed by the action of ultraviolet radiation among
of wrinkles. There is an increase in the activity of collagenase and
other things, are chemical particles with high energy. They can cause
elastase â&#x20AC;&#x201C; enzymes which decompose collagen and elastin. There
damage to lipid and protein structures, and also cause changes in
are also disturbances in processes involving the proliferation, growth
the metabolism and functioning of cells.
and differentiation of cells.
It is worth knowing that the body has its own defensive mechani-
Ageing processes may be stimulated by the action of harmful
sms, protecting the skin against the action of free radicals. Enzymes
exogenic factors. A very good example is the process of photoage-
like superoxide dismutase, which eliminates destructive superoxide
ing, which affects the skin under the influence of ultraviolet radiation.
anion-radicals, and catalase (which catalyses the decomposition
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of excessive water loss. Vitamin C, apart from its strong anti-radical action, also has a direct influence on the process of collagen synthesis, which is so important for the condition and functioning of the skin. Another interesting group is the flavonoids, which apart from their strong anti-radical activity also counteract oxidization, accelerate the tissue renewal processes and support the regeneration of tissues. By reducing the activity of enzymes like collagenase, elastase and hyaluronidase, flavonoids protect against the decomposition of collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid. Anti-ageing cosmetics also contain a whole range of substances whose job it is to stimulate appropriate metabolic processes, and also to regulate processes relating to cell renewal. A very good example of this is retinol, which stimulates cell growth processes in the basal layer of the epidermis and metabolic activity of the skin. This ingredients has also come to play a particular role in anti-ageing products due to its ability to stimulate the activity of fibroblasts, by which means it has a significant effect on processes involving the synthesis of collagen. One substance widely used (in small and strictly defined doses) to smooth wrinkles in aesthetic medicine is botulinum toxin. By blocking the operation of neuromuscular junctions it causes temporary loosening of muscle, which produces a wrinkle-smoothing effect. To produce muscle contraction the secretion of acetylcholine is needed. Botulinum toxin blocks the acetylcholine secretion process, and thus prevents contraction from occurring. It is injected with a thin needle into appropriate parts of the muscle, and the effect normally begins two days after the procedure. As has already been mentioned, the effect is temporary: depending on the patient it lasts of hydrogen peroxide into water and molecular oxygen) provide
for between three and six months, becoming gradually weaker – after
effective defence against radicals. But what can we ourselves do to
that the procedure needs to be repeated.
protect the skin against the destructive action of exogenic factors;
However there are some customers who find this procedure hard
how can we assist the natural regulatory processes which condition
to accept, due to fears of side effects and complications. A wide
that organ’s proper functioning? In a word – what cosmetics should
range of products have appeared for such customers in both the
be used to minimize the adverse effect of exogenic ageing factors?
Polish and international markets.
Anti-ageing cosmetic products today include a large number
Products following this trend, often described with the term “bo-
of biologically active ingredients whose job it is to protect the skin
tox-like”, include a number of active substances whose final effect is
against harmful factors that accelerate its ageing. These assist
similar to that produced by botulinum toxin (although normally not
the skin’s natural defensive and regulatory mechanisms, and also
so intense). It must be pointed out that in this case it is the end result
stimulate processes of renewal of the epidermis.
that matters – the mechanisms underlying the action of wrinkle-
One of the most important groups of cosmetic ingredients that protect against external ageing factors is ultraviolet filters and
reducing substances may be quite different from each other. Anti-ageing products now account for a large share of the cosme-
screening substances. These compounds’ molecules contain groups
tics market. They contain a number of biologically active ingredients,
which are able to absorb ultraviolet radiation, or reflect it in the case
whose purpose is to slow down the processes of skin ageing.
of screening compounds.
These are substances which protect against the harmful effects of
To neutralize free radicals, wide use is made of vitamins E and
ultraviolet radiation and free radicals, help produce a proper level of
C. It must be remembered that vitamin E is an ingredient with a very
skin moisture, and also stimulate cell renewal processes and assist
strong anti-radical effect, and moreover it has the ability to build
the regulation of natural processes occurring in the skin. Due to the
itself into the lipid structures of the intercellular cement, leading
need for products of this type, we can anticipate an ever-increasing
indirectly to strengthening of the epidermal barrier and prevention
level of interest in anti-ageing cosmetics.
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Should parabens be used? Ph D Antoni Gwardys Passage Cosmetics Laboratory
Parabens is a common name for a small group of chemical compounds which are esters of para-hydroxybenzoic acid. Parabens are used in over 22,000 different cosmetics as preservatives and their concentration is up to 0.8% (blend of parabens) or up to 0.4% (single compounds). Their anti-microorganism activity includes
tissue (Darbre 2004) was found to be 20 ng/g (very low level) and the
bacteria as well as moulds and yeasts and it depends on a number of
research was carried out on the sample of 20 people, the publication
factors, mainly on the pH of the environment. Optimum pH level is pH 6.
evoked discussion and doubts concerning the safety of using parabens.
Above this level, the anti-microorganism activity of parabens becomes
The authors of the publication emphasised the need of further
weaker. The presence of iron ions can also lower the activity of paraben
research and lack of scientific basis to confirm that the presence of
preservatives. In the presence of other preservative substances a
parabens leads to creation of tumors. Nonetheless, doubts were awoken.
synergic effect is possible. This is why a blend of esters of para-hydro-
Information about estrogenic activity of parabens was referred to and
xybenzoic acid is often supplemented with fenoxyethanol, for example.
linked with a possible cancerogenus activity of exogenic estrogens as
Solubility depends on the type of esters – some dissolve better in water
well as with the presence of parabens in breast cancer tumor tissue.
(Methyl Paraben), some in fats (Propyl Paraben, Butyl Paraben).
Although there are numerous publications which confirm estrogenic
From a cosmetics manufacturer’s point of view, parabens are a
activity of parabens, what should be borne in mind is that this activity is
good preservative – inexpensive, easy to use, effective and relatively
up to one million times lower than activity of 17-β-estradiol, and doses
safe as far as human health is concerned (Steczko 2010). But some
to which cosmetics users are exposed to are incomparably smaller than
recent scientific publications have cast a shadow on the latter property,
doses used in scientific research conducted mainly on experimental
implying that parabens have a pro-estrogenic effect on human body
animals (Kawaguchi 2009, Vo 2009, 2010, Shaw 2009). The latter involve
(Routledge 1998, Golden 2005).
paraben doses per os of even 1000 mg/kg/day whereas application on skin
There were also publications confirming the presence of esters of para-hydroxybenzoic acid (methylparaben, ethylparaben,
involves exposure to 37µg/cm2 emulsion containing 0,4% of paraben. All the publications made SCCP (Scientific Committee on Consumer
n-propylparaben, n-butylparaben) in human breast cancer tissues and
Products) of COLIPA (European Cosmetic Toiletry and Fragrance
in vitro tests proved their estrogenic activity against estrogen-dependent
Association) analyse available toxicological data again in order to give
MCF-7 cells in human breast cancer cell line (Okubo 2001, Byfrod 2002,
opinion on the permitted level of parabens in cosmetics formulas as far
Darbre 2004). Although the concentration of parabens in the cancerous
as the human health and safety is concerned.
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51
doubts about the safety of using them in cosmetics (item No. 15 Final amended report on the safety assessment of Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Propylparaben, Isopropylparaben, Isobutylparaben and Benzylparaben as used in cosmetic products). Obviously we should pay attention to their proper introduction into cosmetics formulas and any factors that limit (and also increase) parabens’ preservative activity. Optimalisation of use can undoubtedly lead to an increase of the safety for human health of this group of chemical compounds as preservatives in cosmetics.
Bibliography 1.
2.
3.
4.
5. 6.
7.
8.
It should be emphasised that the use of parabens is limited to 0.4% in case of single compound and 0.8% in case of using a blend
9.
of compounds. After carrying out thorough analysis of available publications and conducting a number of research (both in vitro and in vivo), the Committee, not having found any grounds for further limitation of maximum permitted applied concentration, decided to sustain the
10.
previous limits for the use of parabens. At the same time further research on migration through skin and metabolism of parabens, including their conjugates (Ye 2009), was recommended.
11.
Standards concerning penetration through skin, level of metabolism and NOAEL (No Observed Adverse Effect Level) were determined.
12.
NOAELs for Methyl Paraben and Ethyl Paraben were determined to be 1000mg/kg/day, which was recognized as safe for the human health. Migration through healthy human skin from oil-in-water emulsion
13.
containing 0.4% BP (Butyl Paraben) was measured on the level of 21%. It was in whole metabolised rapidly to benzoic acid derivatives. With that
14.
level of exposure and migration through skin and on the assumption that maximum permitted concentration of parabens is used, exceeding No Observed Adverse Effect Level seems to be rather unlikely. Referring back to the question stated in the title of this article: Should parabens be used?, as far as both existing regulations and current toxicological data are concerned, parabens do not raise
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15.
Steczko J, Ash SR, Brewer L et al. – In vitro and in vivo evaluation of effi cacy of citrate/methylene blue/ parabens / IPA solution as skin disinfectant - J Infect (The Journal of Infection), 2010 Jan, 60 (1), 36–43 Routledge EJ, Parker J, Odun J et al. – Some alkyl hydroxy benzoate preservatives (parabens) are estrogenic – Toxicol Appl Pharmacol (Toxicology and Applied Pharmacology), 1998, 153 (1), 12-9 Byford JR, Shaw LE, Drew MG, Pope GS, Sauer MJ, Darbre PD – Oestrogenic activity of parabens in MCF7 human breast cancer cells – J Steroid Biochem Mol Biol (The Journal of Steroid Biochemistry and Molecular Biology) , 2002, 80(1), 49-60 Darbre PD, Harvey PW - Paraben esters: review of recent studies of endocrine toxicity, absorption, esterase and human exposure, and discussion of potential human health risks - Journal of Applied Toxicology (JAT), 2008; 28(5), 561-78. SCCP: Opinion on Parabens. Colipa No P82 10 Oct 2006. Darbre PD, Aljarrah A, Miller WR, Coldham NG, Sauer MJ, Pope GS, Concentrations of parabens in human breast tumours - J Appl Toxicol (Journal of Applied Toxicology) 2004, 24(1):5-13. Okubo T, Yokoyama Y, Kano K, Kano I, ER-dependent estrogenic activity of parabens assessed by proliferation of human breast cancer MCF-7 cells and expression of ERalpha and PR. - Food Chem Toxicol. (Food Chemistry and Toxicology) 2001, 39(12):122532. Golden R, Gandy J, Vollmer G – A review of the endocrine activity of parabens and implications for potential risks to human health – Crit Rev Toxicol (Critical Reviews in Toxicology), 2005, 35 (5), 435 – 58 Marquez-Sillers I, Aguilera – Herrador E, Cardenas S. et al. – Determination of parabens in cosmetic products using multi-walled carbon nanotubes as solid phase extraction sorbent and coronacharged aerosol detection system : J Chromatogr A (The Journal of Chromatography A), 2010 Jan 1; 1217 (1), 1-6 Kawaguchi M, Morohoski K, Masuda J et al. – Maternal isobutyl –paraben (IBP) exposure decreases the plasma corticosterone level in dams and sensitivity to estrogen in female offspring rats - J Vet Med. Sci (The Journal of Veterinary Medical Science), 2009, 71 (8), 1027 - 33 Vo TT, Jeung EB – An evaluation of estrogenic activity of parabens using uterine calbindin-d9k gene in an immature rat model – Toxicol Sci (Society of toxicology), 2009, 112 (1), 68-77 Vo TT, Yoo YM, Choi KC, Jeung EB – Potential estrogenic effect(s) of parabens at the prepubertal stage of a postnatal female rat miodel – Reprod Toxicol (Reproductive Toxicology), 2010 Feb 2 Shaw J, deCatanzaro D – Estrogenicity of parabens revisited : impact of parabens on early pregnancy and an uterotrophic assay in mice – Reprod Toxicol (Reproductive Toxicology), 2009, 28(1), 26-31 Ye X, Wong LY, Jla LT, Needham LL, Calafat AM – Stability of the conjugated species of environmental phenols and parabens in human serum – Environ Int (Environment International), 2009, 35 (8), 1160-3 Final amended report on the safety assessment of Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Propylparaben, Isopropylparaben, Butylparaben, Isobutylparaben and Benzylparaben as used in cosmetic products - Int J Toxicol (International Journal of Toxicology), 2008, 27 Suppl. 4 : 1-82
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52 | packages
A web portal
as the beginning of a productâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s lifetime in the Internet Aneta Baberowska Noise department of Noise Technology
With this article we would like to initiate a new thematic series that will show the possibilities that the Internet offers to the sector of the cosmetic market. It is possible that at times it might contain quite obvious information, however, its main goal is to show you certain tendencies and ways of thinking when it comes to the Internet. Often the Internet will be referred to as the strong purchasing, marketing and promotional instrument.
We will show you how your product is seen by an Internet user, who
For the last two years the dynamics of the Internet users growth
as a matter of fact, often for the first time and thanks to the Internet
decreased. However, people spend remarkably more time using the
encounters the product, its package and opinions about it on forums.
Internet. According to the Megapanel PBI/Gemius research each Polish
This way we will help you understand that the marketing life of the
Internet user spends approximately 46 hours 29 minutes on the web.
product begins exactly on the Net and then it is continued in the retail
The index of the number of page views grew as well. It is not enough for
and wholesale outlets.
the professional organisations just to be on the Internet. More relevant is
We will do our best to lead you through problematic issues concer-
how the company is perceived by the users. More often we deal not with
ning e-marketing, most optimal technologies or questions regarding web
static www services but with applications or services which use more
design with reference to the cosmetic branch.
advanced technologies. In the present day, the interactive agencies and
We will show you what kind of promotions are the most effective on the Internet, how to chose the most trustworthy interactive agency and tell you how to work with tools available on the web.
their clients encourage to interact with the recipients through developed innovative web solutions. Our observations of the market show that the companies which offer
Taking into account the fact that the chief element of promotion
and present the â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;productâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; notice that the essential instrument is to begin
when it comes to cosmetic business is the product, we will prove how
communication with the client not only through presenting the product,
important its presentation is with the Internet services.
but also providing the information about its quality. To achieve such
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53 goal various procedures are used, from loyalty programmes or discount
e-commerce. The topic of the Internet shops will be touched upon in the
systems to banner campaigns.
next publications.
Product services are worth mentioning here. Contrary to corporative
As far as the graphic design is concerned, it is advisable to make it
services, they are not based on the schematic sitemap. The companies
original and consistent with the usability trends. We cannot forget that
and corporations associated with the cosmetic branch tend to invest
the presented products should be photographed properly and the sub-
more willingly in the product services and this is the first step of the
stantial part should be clear. As regards the technological tools, zooming
advertising campaign whose aim is not only to popularise the product on
mechanisms or magnifying glasses are used in the services. They help
the Internet and increase the sales in e-shops, but also the emphasis and
to magnify the product and to examine its details. As in every service,
response in retail. Therefore, in the cosmetic division product services
the main goal is to relate to certain www designing standards as well as
are first and foremost a part of the marketing strategy of the product.
to apply intuitive navigation. Depending on the type of the product, with
As a consequence, the key to success is the creation and then web
the help of the agency we can determine the best technology to create
technology adjusted to the advertising form.
the service. Here, we can apply the Flash environment which is more
Technological solutions in the form of CMS (Content Management System) are a good tool integrated with the web solution, as
interactive than standard HTML. To conclude, we present the view of the Internet service of the Joanna
they allow its actualisation. According to the www.esteticapolska.pl
company whose layout is original and appealing. A womanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s dressing
service, CMS associated with it is the most common instrument as
table was the inspiration. Here, its drawers refer to particular sections on
regards the communication with the client. Thanks to the available
the page.
administrative panel the manager of the service can easily update news, add new descriptions or control the banner system. Regularly
The division into categories is very understandable and the product is presented clearly together with the description.
updated webpage, not only company page but also the page of the ADVERTISEMENT
product, is a crucial source of information and knowledge to the Internet user. It is necessary to mention that what the recipient sees, i.e. the creation is the most important when it comes to the product presentation. Of course, any company can adopt the e-marketing strategy focusing on the promotion of a given product through its distinction and creation of a dedicated system. Such corporation actions should be consistent with marketing-mix which refers to the actions of general product lining. Promotion, product, price and distribution strategy in such case should be reflected in the web marketing actions. However, for the web marketing strategy to work well and be trustworthy we should take care of the foundations â&#x20AC;&#x201C; proper brand presentation and product lining on the Net. There are many ways to reach the client through the Internet tools. Product service is the point of reference. The next step is to properly advertise that product. It can be done thanks to such tools as SEO/SEM which focus on positioning and contextual advertising of the service. The next stage that the companies invest in are the Web 2.0 tools. Internet forums or thematic blogs maintained by branch experts assemble the clients and invite them to buy the product. In many cases competitions thematically connected with purchasing the advertising product are organised. Such competitions often require the application of appropriate tools which help to register oneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s profile on the page and monitor the prize drawing. Gathering the information about people is a valuable source when it comes to further advertising actions not necessarily performed by the web. All things considered, advertising campaigns, as well as the loyalty systems on the Internet, are a means to build the relation between the client and the product, which is reflected in the profitability of the project. Another activating method used to reach the client successfully is the creation of the distribution network built with the use of
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54 | packages
Environmental aspects of packaging in the cosmetics market Monika Blezień-Ruszaj Environmental Specialist
Cardboard boxes, glass and plastic bottles, plastic packaging in novel shapes: designers, graphic artists and marketing specialists in the cosmetics industry compete to give cosmetics – such as creams, lotions, tonics, balsams, perfumes and eau de toilette – packaging which will fix the customer’s gaze and attention on their own products rather than those of their competitors. In this whole production machine, the natural environment and its protection are often forgotten. But we should stop for at least a moment and examine close up how we in the cosmetics industry can help take care of the environment in which we live.
By changing our habits, let us try to ensure that the packages for
Packagings, as understood by law, are manufactured items
cosmetics produced at our factories comply with environmental
brought into circulation, made of any materials, intended for the storage,
requirements and take a form which is as environmentally friendly as
protection, carriage, delivery or presentation of products, from raw
possible.
materials to processed goods.
Customers are increasingly often buying cosmetics based on
The next step in organizing a system of packaging management is
natural ingredients, so why not think about making the packages of those
to become familiar with the basic legal requirements in European Union
products friendly to the environment as well?
law. The chief directive laying down methods of handling packaging,
As manufacturers bringing packagings onto the market – the
in which these principles are contained, is European Parliament and
cosmetics market in this case – we must be aware of a basic principle
Council Directive 94/62/EC of 20 December 1994 “on packaging and
contained in European directives, acts of parliament and ministerial
packaging waste”. The next legal instrument, which in 2004 amended
orders: the “polluter pays” principle. This is a basic rule with which
the provisions of the earlier directive, was Directive 2004/12/EC,
producers of packaging and of products in packaging should comply in
followed by Directive 2005/20/EC in 2005. Changes related to, among
order to meet basic environment protection standards. It is of very great
other things, higher levels of recovery and recycling of packaging waste
importance in regulations relating to packagings and packaging waste.
coming from marketed packagings, and definition of transitional periods
Legislators have made firms bringing packaged products onto
for compliance with EU requirements by new member states, including
the market – this applies to all firms in the case of the cosmetics industry
Poland. Another amendment, and also a very important change for the
(unfortunately, cosmetic products without any packaging would hardly
cosmetics market, was the giving of a more precise definition of the
be usable) – responsible for them throughout their life cycle, namely
concept of packaging. According to Directive 2004/12/EC, Article 3(1):
from bringing onto the market (even in the case of import or intracom-
(…) the definition of “packaging” shall be further based on the criteria
munity purchase) until their end. We must therefore remember that we
set out below:
also become responsible for the waste that these products produce.
• Items shall be considered to be packaging if they fulfil the above-
In order to think out and organize a good system for managing
mentioned definition without prejudice to other functions which the
packaging and resulting waste in the cosmetics industry, it is necessary
packaging might also perform, unless the item is an integral part of
to start with the definition of packaging.
a product and it is necessary to contain, support or preserve that
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55 product throughout its lifetime and all elements are intended to be
balsams, shower gels and deodorants are found only in their “own”
used, consumed or disposed of together. For example:
packaging, perfumes and eau de toilette simply adore packaging – their
Items which are packaging: powder insets for powder compacts,
“own” packaging, a glass bottle, is placed in a cardboard box and then
boxes containing loose powder and powder pellets
film-wrapped. This gives three types of packaging which need to be
Items which are not packaging: compacts containing loose
accounted for – records must be kept for paper, glass and plastic, and
powder or with a compacted powder inset (permanently attached
the natural environment ends up being polluted three times, not to
powder insets)
mention the fact that we are no longer thinking economically, since in
• Items designed and intended to be filled at the point of sale and “disposable” items sold, filled or designed and intended to be filled at the point of sale shall be considered to be packaging provided they fulfil a packaging function. For example: Items being packaging if they are designed and
paying for the product we have to take account of and pay the costs of all three types of packaging. Another environment-related legal instrument effective in the domestic market, applicable to producers of packaging, including those operating on the cosmetics market, is the Act of 11 May 2001 on firms’
intended to be filled at the point of sale:
obligations in relation to the management of certain forms of waste and
– containers for samples of creams (made of plastic)
on product and deposit charges (consolidated text Dz.U. 2007 no. 90
–
containers for samples of perfumes (glass, plastic)
prepared specially for perfumeries and drugstores Items which are not packaging: applicators (spatulas) for placing creams in containers, used at the point of sale • Packaging components and ancillary elements integrated into packaging shall be considered to be part of the packaging into
item 607 as amended). According to this act, firms marketing packaged products in Poland are obliged to ensure appropriate levels of recovery and recycling of the packaging. Who does the act apply to in the cosmetics industry? • Manufacturers of products in packaging;
which they are integrated. Ancillary elements hung directly on,
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or attached to, a product and which perform a packaging function shall be considered to be packaging unless they are an integral part of this product and all elements are intended to be consumed or disposed of together. For example: Items which are packaging: labels hung directly on or attached to a product Part of packaging: mascara brushes which are part of the container closure Devices for measuring out, being part of the closure of a container containing (for example) creams. The purpose of Directive 94/62/EC on packaging and packaging waste, with its amendments, is primarily to reduce the environmental impact of packaging and the waste it produces. This goal is served by promoting reusable packaging, a return to glass packaging and the creation of systems for collection, recovery and recycling of packaging waste. The most important provision of the directive was the introduction of an obligation to ensure recovery and recycling of packaging waste made from particular materials: paper and cardboard, glass, plastics, metals and natural materials. Looking at the cosmetics market over recent years we can observe a reduction in quantities of packaging – just by visiting perfumeries and drugstores we can see that most cosmetics are in packaging which is in direct contact with the cosmetic. Of course there are also cases of secondary packaging, where the cosmetic’s immediate packaging – made of plastic, for example – is further placed in cardboard packaging (although here we are dealing with the packaging material which least harms the environment – paper). Unfortunately it is perfumed cosmetics for which multiple packaging is still most often used – while
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56 | packages requirement, thus on most packaging we can find markings indicating the following information: • type of materials used to produce the packaging • possibility of reuse of the packaging • possibility of recycling the packaging It must be remembered that such marking ought to be placed on the packaging in a permanent, visible and legible manner, and when the dimensions of the packaging are small the information is placed on a label included with the product. • Importers of goods in packaging, including firms making intracom-
Markings most commonly encountered on cosmetics packaging:
munity purchases of such goods; • A firm which packs products manufactured by a different firm and
• Reusable packaging
brings them onto the market in Poland; • A firm which is not the manufacturer of a product or a product in
• Packaging suitable for recycling
packaging, but which ordered the manufacture of such a product or product in packaging and which is identified on the product or
Types of materials used to produce packaging:
product in packaging. • Aluminium Therefore, according to this act, obligations relating to protection of the environment are applicable to all firms responsible for production or
• Polyethylene terephthalate
connected with distribution on the cosmetics market. In order to more precisely define the packagings which need to be included in reports, based on which settlement of accounts in environmental matters is required, both in the Polish cosmetics market and in European Union countries, the types in question are listed below: • plastic packaging • aluminium packaging • packaging made of steel, including sheet steel • paper and cardboard packaging
Guidelines from the Act on Packaging relating to reducing the damage done by products and products in packaging. With regard to the Act of 11 May 2001 on packaging and packaging
• packaging made of domestic glass, excluding ampoules
waste (Dz.U. 2001 no. 63 item 638 as amended), and also to the
• packaging made of wood
reflections which may come to mind as regards the environmental aspect of cosmetics packaging, we should list the obligations which apply to
Perusal of the list of waste types quickly shows that the cosmetics
firms in the cosmetics industry in relation to the packaging they produce
market uses almost all of these types of packaging, either to store
or bring onto the market. According to the act it must be remembered
cosmetics as a product, or as a product in packaging, and when large
that purchased packaging and packaging containing products should not
quantities of cosmetics are sent to customers it may even prove neces-
have an adverse effect on the environment, and that their quantity should
sary to conduct settlements for packaging made of steel and of wood.
be reduced to a minimum. The act lays down the following guidelines:
The act also lays down precise requirements for packaging. Reusable
• reduce the volume and mass of packaging to an unavoidable minimum
packaging should have such properties as to enable it to be used a
• enable reuse of packaging and its later recycling
specified number of times, assuming normal conditions of use. Waste
• minimize the content of substances which pose a threat to life, human
from such packaging should be recoverable, while packaging suited to material recycling should be produced in a manner which enables recycling of a specified amount of the mass of material used in production.
health or the environment • the maximum content of lead, cadmium, mercury and chromium (VI) in total may not exceed 100 mg/kg.
Packaging intended to biodegrade should offer such chemical, physical,
In caring for the natural environment, manufacturers and firms
thermal and biological decomposability as to ensure final decomposition
associated with the cosmetics industry should consider reducing the
of the compost into carbon dioxide, biomass and water.
quantities of packaging they bring onto the market. People are becoming more environmentally aware year by year, so we should remember that soon
Marking of packaging in the cosmetics industry When examining cosmetics packaging or cosmetic products in
customers will stop to think whether to buy a product contained in packaging – sometimes as many as three layers – or whether it would be better for the
packaging, it can be observed that on this market the obligation to mark
environment to buy and try out a product which may come from a competing
packaging is adhered to. Most firms, although not all, comply with this
firm, but is contained only in its own single layer of packaging.
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