Świat Przemysłu Kosmetycznego 1/2011 EN

ISSN: 2081-089X

No. 01/2011 (6) 10 PLN (incl. 5% VAT)

contents 18

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Natura5

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od redakcji Wyda

Rada Programowa: dr n. chem. Anna Oborska

Ewa Starzyk

– Dyrektor ds. techniczno-legislacyjnych – Polskie Stowarzyszenie Producentów Kosmetyków i Środków Czystości

– Dyrektor Naukowy – Polski Związek Przemysłu Kosmetycznego

Kwartalnik Wydawnictwa FARMACOM Wodzisław Śląski 44-300 ul. 26 Marca 31/11 farmacom @farmacom.com.pl www.farmacom.com.pl Redaktor Naczelny: Robert Miller tel./fax 32 455 31 61 tel. kom. 502 084 101 robert.miller @farmacom.com.pl Prenumerata i kolportaż: Wydawnictwo FARMACOM Wodzisław Śląski 44-300 ul. 26 Marca 31/11 tel./fax 32 455 31 61 prenumerata@farmacom.com.pl Cena egzemplarza „ŚPK” – 10 zł Cena rocznej prenumeraty – 35 zł Wpłat dokonywać można na konto: ING Bank Śląski O/Wodzisław Śląski 56 1050 1403 1000 0023 2091 8119

Spis reklamodawców: Cezar Galbex Sp. z o.o.

Redaktor wydania: Maria Kubsz tel./fax 32 456 60 79 tel. kom. 510 40 31 91 maria.kubsz@farmacom.com.pl

Irad Plast S.C. Kogotest S.C. „MEDsynC Skotnicki, Weksler” Sp. j.

Redakcja:

Mikrolab Laboratorium Mikrobiologiczne

Michał Łatas michal.latas@farmacom.com.pl Tomasz Butyński, Teresa Kubsz-Miller, tel./fax 32 455 31 61 redakcja@farmacom.com.pl

PPH Interplast

DTP: PROGRAFIKA.com.pl

Statsoft Polska Sp. z o.o.

Druk: Drukarnia BIMART

Trade&Consult Ltd. Sp. z o.o.

Nakład: 2 500 egz.

Zakład Poligraficzny Wiking Graf Sp. j. T. Jakubowski

Provital Polska Sp. z o.o.

Rebhan – Opakowania Sp. z o.o.

Magazyn kierowany jest do specjalistów ds. utrzymania ruchu, technologów, automatyków, szefów działów produkcji, kontroli i zapewnienia jakości, szefów działów logistyki i zaopatrzenia oraz działów rozwoju produktów w zakładach produkujących kosmetyki. Odbiorcami czasopisma są również uczestnicy targów, konferencji i szkoleń bran żowych, urzędy, ministerstwa, instytuty i biura projektowe.

Redakcja zastrzega sobie prawo do zmian w tytułach i redagowania tekstów.

Redakcja nie odpowiada za treść reklam. Wykorzystywanie materiałów i publikowanie reklam opracowanych przez Wydawcę wyłącznie za zgodą redakcji.

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8 | production

The Quest for Quality Norbert Śledź Technical Consultant, Abis

Sample SCADA system realisation on operator panels by Siemens

The necessity to ensure the right quality for a product is undoubtedly essential, possibly the most important thing for every company, and not only those which prefer the TQM approach – management through quality. This truism applies to companies in every industry, with the cosmetics industry of course being no exception, especially nowadays in the uncertain and unpredictable environment of the consumer market. Buyers can be merciless – both the final customers and those in between.

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Example of a PAC: RX3i driver by GE Intelligent Platforms (Source: Astor.com.pl)

As nobody has a monopoly on supplying creams, will a shop order products in damaged packaging with illegible barcodes? Will a customer decide on a repeat purchase of ointment which, at best, has no effect? Of course, we can also use a range of other functional tools in today’s business. The powerful marketing machine cannot be overestimated. Since it is possible to take a simple electronic product mass produced in the Far East for next to nothing and make it into something highly desirable just by adding the right logo, then why should the same effect not work with our ‘miraculous’ lotion? This is a rhetorical question, but a certain consistency can be seen. Ensuring the appropriate quality of our product, even if this involves additional costs in the short term, undoubtedly results in profit, sometimes much greater (although delayed) in other areas. This has a direct effect on the company’s

financial result. In addition, a brand representing high quality products is an asset in itself.

One of the applications, and at the same time directions of development, of today’s automation solutions is systems responsible for quality control. Based on specialised devices programmes by experienced integrators, they are capable of astonishingly great efficiency, improving the general result of a production system.

These solutions may be applied at almost every stage of the production process, and beyond it. We can look at them both in micro (for individual actions or machines) and macro (for the entirety of a production process and/or logistics).

This conventional division allows for a transparent and synthetic presentation of the solutions applied.

When examining the micro scale we must first divide the production chain into individual links. We should use, ADVERTISEMENT

10 | production Vision control system: Control of fill level and assembly completeness (Source: author)

Vision control system: Control of bottle orientation before attaching label (Source: author)

for example, the experience of employees with direct contact with production to answer the question of where is the problem, and where does it come from? Maybe automation solutions are not necessary here at all? Often changing the production management model itself, or the management of materials used in production, or of logistics processes, is enough to improve product quality and minimise losses. Unfortunately, even in perfectly managed companies use of modern technology’s achievements is indispensible.

The most commonly applied solution is vision control systems, which are becoming ever more common in solving problems with industrial inspection, allowing total automation of the process and an increase in its precision and efficiency. Of course, an inspection may cover various types of products in a variety of configurations of physical factors. Cosmetics are not an exception here.

The following types of vision systems are differentiated with regard to the types of instruments used and processing power: • vision sensor (or soft sensor) - a camera and illuminator integrated in a single casing; due to the relatively low definition of the camera and limited possibilities of the processor, soft sensors are used for simpler tasks such as reading codes, uncomplicated measurements or identifying the presence of objects; • smart camera - a camera integrated in a single casing with a computer; due to the great operational possibilities of the software, the smart camera has applications in a wide variety of tasks, including those which require very fast action on modern high-output production lines; • camera – computer system – consisting of a camera working along with a separate PC class computer, this allows for the choice of any camera which is most suitable for the process being monitored (e.g. monochrome or colour, linear or matrix).

Most importantly, the vision systems available on the market enable not only automatic, but also touch-free control of products directly on the production line. This type of device may be used at several stages of production, making reaction to any irregularities arising in the process faster. In this way production costs can be significantly

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decreased by reducing faulty products and semi-finished products.

There are many options for using vision control – from an economic point of view it is worth using them where they will ensure a high detection rate for malfunctions, so that the investment will translate directly into an increase in the number of products removed from the manufacturing process. There is also a wide range of cameras available on the market, differing in, among other things, size, the industrial conditions under which they can operate, and the way they illuminate the objects being analysed. It should be emphasised here that one part of the system which is often not treated seriously enough is the ensuring of appropriate working conditions for the recording device. The appropriate light sources are used for this – led diodes, discharge lamps, lasers etc. Naturally, tests should be conducted in each case to find the best, most appropriate option.

A certain field of vision system application is connected with legal requirements. Legislation demands that every cosmetic carries a clearly legible use-by date.

The simplest way to check the date involves confirming whether ‘something’ has been printed at a given spot.

More advanced systems recognise the printed symbols, ‘read’ them and check whether the overprint meets the requirements. Systems for reading and verifying the quality of the printed characters (OCR/OCV) are also used to check batches, production changes, etc. Verification may also include reading barcodes or QR codes.

Many cosmetics manufacturers use vision control systems to check the number of individual packages in bulk packaging. Recording a picture of a box in an identifiable

Vision control system: Control of cap cleanness before applying (Source: author)

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manner on a computer disc may be used as evidence in quantitative claims.

It should also be noted that appropriate programming of a camera, alongside use of even the simplest visualisation system, enables not only the removal of faulty products during the manufacturing process, but also a real-time analysis of the potential causes of such errors.

Machine vision is consistently replacing human visual checking. In almost every case it is more reliable and efficient, it is not prone to tiredness, boredom or days off, and guarantees proper results regardless of usage time.

It is also worth remembering that use of vision systems improves assessment during quality audits.

Another application (which is not, of course, incompatible with the first) in automation to improve quality is investment in measurement systems. These can provide a range of information in real time, such as: • The temperature and humidity in the production hall (which can affect the quality of the product being made).

• The amount of material or semi-finished products gathered for use in the production process (this uses advanced ultrasonic level sensors, for example).

• Control stations for physical/chemical parameters, enabling control of Ph, water quality, metal content, etc.

Still more solutions applicable at the micro level are the opportunities provided by control systems. We can automate the production process by using reconfigurable PLC class systems or more advanced PAC systems, thus in many cases eliminating human error. In addition, data from the control and measurement canvassing systems is essential if we want to create a superordinate control system for checks.

Taking this further, it is possible to proceed from the micro to the macro scale. At this level, by using information provided by such devices as the aforementioned: • Vision control systems • Measuring devices • Programmable drivers it is possible to create a superordinate control system.

Such an application can, of course, serve to ensure that the end user receives a product of the highest quality, which is good for the company’s image.

There is also a degree of choice at this stage, a decision made easier by answering the following questions: • What kind of budget do we have?

• Do we want to concentrate on selected elements of production or on the whole line?

• Who will be the end user of the system designed, who will analyse the reports and presentations?

• What is the output of our production line? Do we produce individual products, small batches, larger batches or en masse?

• Do we just want to ensure quality at the production stage, or also include logistics?

A well considered response to these questions will allow us to make a decision regarding investment in the relevant software, which may not be simple due to the multiple

reklama masterchem

12 | production

Vision control system: Reading of data stamped on paper packaging (Source: author)

Vision control system: Reading of data on bottle (Source: author)

solutions available. In principle, we can accept the conventional categories of systems based on their range of applications.

• The simplest solution is to use a SCADA (Supervisory Control and Data Acquisition) system, which will be tasked with recording data from the production line stage and displaying it on a transparent user interface. This system is not only relatively easy to implement, but also constitutes a basic component in the construction of more extensive systems. When integrated with a data base it also allows access to historical data, meaning that we can follow changes in the production process parameters. There is no doubt that this makes quality analysis of actions easier.

• Further up in the hierarchy we find wholesale data acquisition systems connected to an expanded report system • Another link is systems of the MES (Manufacturing Execution System) type. These are based on advanced data bases and serve to manage information about production, starting from recipes and information from the production process, expanded to include checks on the production process in practically every aspect.

This makes it possible to review key production factors in real time, such as efficiency, accessibility or quality, thus allowing the process to be seen through the OEE1 coefficient, among others. MES systems as a tool can justifiably be compared with Office.

• At the very top of the IT systems hierarchy are ERP (Enterprise Resource Planning) systems, which nowadays are supplied with data from MES in order to have information about production in Planning,

Screenshot – system for monitoring and illustrating microclimate – quality control of production conditions in ICN Polfa Rzeszów (system implemented by Abis), (Source: author)

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production | 13 Example of a PLC driver: Modern PLC driver by Horner – with touch display integrated in a single casing (Source: Horner, heapg.com)

Sample SCADA system realisation on an operator panel

by Wonderware (Source: Directindustry.com)

Production and Logistics departments. This is not only functional in large enterprises, these days it also encompasses small and medium businesses. They help take care of quality at the level of an individual machine as well as the output of an entire line.

Screenshot – Illustration of transport and preparation of mixture by Gamrat S.A (system implemented by ABIS), (Source: author)

we can freeze the project at a given stage – one which Of course, all initiatives or investments must be convincing is fully functioning but limited in scope. at the decision-making level in many different departments.

• We are not technically prepared for the changes.

What arguments are most often heard then, and how can we – Is this really the investor’s problem? Solving all the answer them convincingly? technical problems which occur is a task for the • We don’t have the money integrator. It may, of course, become necessary to – Since we lack the money, can we afford to invest further in equipment, which will increase the continue manufacturing at the current quality level budget needed, but improving production quality which is causing shortages and losses? This with the help of automation systems is hardly rocket directly affects the financial result... science...

• We don’t have enough money for this purpose • Can we afford to use the knowledge acquired?

– These days industrial automation systems are not – Contemporary systems offer exceptionally transparent expensive practically every investment can be and intuitive graphics interfaces. In addition, when carried out either in a broader perspective or with establishing the specifics of the application it will be regard to immediate tasks in hand. In adapting possible to adapt the functions to our expectations in the relevant solution there is fairly wide room for such a way as to balance ease of use with the quantity manoeuvre as far as the budget is concerned. of data obtained.

We can concentrate on the most important points • Our industry is rather specific, and solutions which work which are causing the greatest losses and drops in elsewhere may not necessarily work for us. productivity. Pareto’s 20-80 principle is true at the – This is an argument commonly used by almost every manufacturing stage – 80% of qualitative losses are company in every industry. After implementing the caused by 20% of the machines. Maybe there is investment, though, the vast majority of them find it one bad apple on our production line which it would hard to imagine how they could manage without an be worth investigating?

IT supervision system, or even simple vision control • We could have the money for this, but not at the moment. at a selected point. There is actually no industry – In this case there is another option available. too ‘specific’ for modern automation. It is always Investment in industrial automation can be carried possible to modernise production – it just depends out as a pilot. This idea assumes the division of on the good will of the investor and the size of the a potentially large project into a series of smaller budget available for this purpose. ones, which are often functionally identical and fully operational but covering only one section of As regards the signature, depending on which form is the target area. This makes it possible to distribute preferred by a publication – any combination of the data below. the costs over time, and will also allow us to keep 1 running checks on the results of implementation.

Overall Equipment Effectiveness – an international standard for measuring the effectiveness of machines.

Additionally, if we are not satisfied with the effects

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14 | production

AEROSOL

– culprit or innocently accused The truth and myths about alleged aerosol impact on „ozone hole” formation

Autor Zigler Polska

Imagine that you have to walk every day amongst deadly fire rain. You are only protected by an umbrella which is so well designed though that it is impermeable to lethal raindrops. Would such a protection not be just priceless?

Would destroying or holing it be not sheer crazy? And yet, all Earth dwellers are in such a situation.

Our planet is being bathed in continuous sunbeam rain. Truly, most of it is good as it supplies us with warmth and light. Still, some tiny portion has a deadly effect. It is the ultraviolet B range radiation, UVB in short. Should this radiation reach the Earth’s surface in full, it would kill every living thing. Fortunately, our globe has been equipped with a natural screen against such rays, namely the ozone layer.

Unfortunately, mankind is destroying this protective cover.

What is the ozone layer?

How does it do its job and how do we destroy it?

Indeed, ozone is an unstable oxygen variety. It consists of three oxygen atoms, while oxygen normally binds two atoms. Ozone is found in the atmosphere to absorb harmful UV-B radiation while letting the life-giving and harmless light

Difficulties arise, however, when people start bringing into

through. Although other gases decompose ozone easily, it is

this delicate system industrial pollutants. Ozone is depleted

the sunlight action which produces new ozone molecules in

quicker than it is replenished through the sunlight action. In

the atmosphere anew. So, it forms a protective shield which

1974, scientists were able to attribute the ozone depletion to

is self-regenerative. What a genius devise!

chlorofluorocarbon components termed CFCs or commonly

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production | 15 known as Freon. They are ubiquitous. Applied to various synthetic foam products – from isolations to disposable cups and containers, they serve also as coolants in air conditioners and fridges as well as solvents to clean electronic equipment.

Why are they associated with aerosol products?

Well, they did a great job to pressurize aerosol cans.

Why? The scientists meant that in addition to CFCs being non-toxic, non-explosive, they are harmless and exceptionally stable. Unfortunately, they were right. It is because CFCs are so stable that they do not lose their destructive properties.

Leaking from damaged air conditioners and crashed Styrofoam cups, they slowly permeate up to the atmosphere where they are bombed by UV rays. Decomposed, they ultimately release the factual ozone killer, that is chlorine.

Chlorine atoms play havoc with fragile ozone molecules which are destroyed. Themselves untouched, chlorine molecules seek further bad-luck partners. One chlorine atom can so act in cycles for over 100 years to destroy a hundred thousand ozone molecules.

Relying on computer-aided earth atmosphere models,

?

Concerned scientists started sounding the alarm in protest

scientists kept warning that chemical pollutants would

against using freons as pressurizing agents in aerosol cans.

increasingly deplete the ozone layer which would effectively

Since 1978 Canada, Sweden and USA have banned freons

transpire more and more UV-B.

for such purposes. Another milestone was the international

Industrial and governmental communities had shrugged

treaty concluded in 1987 in Montreal, Canada, which defined

off such warnings in that evidence submitted was considered

timeframe for phasing out CFCs. Consequently, nowadays

unconvincing and conclusions premature.

freons must not be used in aerosols except for special cases

The Discover Magazine termed this dispute „ozone war” and observed that researchers had for years perceived it

like some medicinal substances.

Regrettably, bad name stuck to aerosol products and will

as a gigantic experiment of global proportions: Mankind

be quite long until it is gone from many people’s minds. Quite

unleashes every year million tons of freons waiting for the

often, when aerosol manufacturer confesses to his/her trade,

outcomes. Real outcomes took everybody by surprise.

he/she may be confronted with a sudden rebuke: „It is you

Computer simulations presaged that ozone would be thinner by fractions of a percent equally over the whole

who destroy the ozone layer!”

Although the ozone depleting agents could not be really

planet while ozone concentrations rapidly fell down over the

taken grip of, one may frankly ascertain that the aerosol

South Pole! As it turned out, computers working out satellite

industry has gone through quite a revolution. Freon has been

data were programmed so as each ozone depletion larger

replaced mostly by hydrocarbons such as propane, butane,

than 30 percent be treated as an error. They have received

isobutene and others. It was not easy as the said gases are

information about the ozone hole for a long time, but would

flammable and explosive. A different approach was required

neglect them.

to the aerosol process technology considering the explosion

For some time reasons have been discussed for

hazard. A front-runner in our market of aerosol making

the ozone hole formation. At last, aircraft equipped with

facilities meeting new higher requirements in terms of safety

measuring devices were sent to the region only to find the

was in the 1990s Pnema Poland, a company renamed to

real culprit – chlorine off manmade chemicals! High over the

Zigler Polska after some transformations. Product lines apply

South Pole, there is a huge eddy current of clouds containing

a separate gas filling cycle which can take place in special

tiny ice crystals. On those millions of microscopic surfaces,

unmanned gas houses. Filling process is closely monitored.

chlorine may dance its deadly dance with ozone.

High-class safety systems in use have effectively eliminated

Meanwhile, the scientists discovered a similar hole over

any fire or explosion risk. At present, aerosol manufacturing is

the North Pole. Seasonally, either of them opens up or

running at a very high capacity and is continually expanding

closes. The austral hole matches the size of the US territory,

on aerosol product range. In addition to helping taking care of

the one over the North Pole is the size of Greenland. As a

personal hygiene, they are useful in households, make lives

result, the Earth’s surface receives more UV-B radiation, thus

of various trade experts easier etc, plus they accompany you

entailing far-reaching consequences.

in your holidays to block UV-B rays.

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16 || Polish Polishindustry industry

Legal requirements regarding cosmetics labeling mgr inż. Wioletta Bogusz-Kaliś JARS Quality Center a limited liability company

The information contained in the label, whether placed directly on the cosmetics packaging or contained in the tag or a leaflet attached to the packaging, should be a source of the most important product information for the consumer. A correct preparation of the label requires taking into consideration many legal acts simultaneously, both effective in Poland as well as in the European Union.

The legally prescribed requirements as to the composition,

laws of Members States regarding cosmetic products

mode of manufacturing, inspection, packaging, marking,

(76/768/EEC). That Regulation shall come into force

storing and marketing aim at securing health and safety of

only on 11 November 2013 (save for some articles

users of those products.

which shall come into force at an earlier date – as of

A unit packaging of a cosmetic should be labeled in Polish, visibly and legibly, in a mode rendering it impossible to easily remove the label.

The Cosmetics Act of 30 March 2001 (J.L. No. 42 item 473, as amended) constitutes the legal basis regarding cosmetics in the Polish law. The Regulation of the Minister

1 December 2010 and 11 January 2013) and shall be effective directly in all EU Member States.

One must also mention the Directive 2005/29/EC of the European Parliament and Council of 11 May 2005, the so-called directive on the unfair commercial practices.

All products introduces to the market must be safe, and

of Health of 16 June 2003 adopted on this Act’s basis

the correct labeling also serves the purpose of assurance

specifies the categories of products being cosmetics.

of safety.

All producers, including the cosmetics producers are bound by the provisions of the Act of 12 December 2003 on the general product safety. The requirements of special

Obligatory data on the label The basic obligatory data on the cosmetic label

provisions must also be met, i.e., the Regulation of the

include: the cosmetic trade name and its category,

Minister of Economy of 20 July 2009 on the detailed

the manufacturer’s details, cosmetic’s contents in the

requirements regarding labeling packaged goods, the

packaging, expiry date, lot no. or any other data allowing

Regulation of the Minister of Environment of 23 April 2004

to identify the cosmetic batch, the product’s composition,

on the specification of designs of packaging marking, the

cosmetic’s function if it does not appear obvious from its

Regulation of the Minister of Economy of 5 November 2009

presentation and detailed warnings as to its application.

on the detailed requirements for the aerosol products. Out

Name of the cosmetic may contain the brand name

of the EU regulations, one must mention the Regulation of

or constitute information on the product designation.

the European Parliament and Council (EC) No. 1223/2009

The cosmetic’s category should be mentioned next to

of 30 November 2009 regarding cosmetic products which

its name. The marking should contain information on the

shall supersede in its entirety the currently binding Directive

function of the cosmetic if it does not appear obvious from

of the Council of 27 July 1976 on the approximation of the

its presentation.

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17 packaging must contain a detailed information on the number of unit packaging unless their number is visible enough from the outside of the packaging.

The marking of the nominal volume may be preceded by additional phrase of “net volume”, “net weight” or “net contents”. On the aerosol products the information on the total volume of the container is given, and the designation on the container of the net weight of its contents is no longer required. The regulation on the detailed requirements regarding marking of packaged products also specifies the minimal height of digits and letters depending on the volume of packaged merchandise, i.e., up to 50g or ml – 2mm, over 50 to 100 – 3mm; over 200 to 1000 – 4 mm, over 1000 – 6 mm.

The cosmetic packaging must also contain information on the series number or other data allowing for the identification of the cosmetic batch, e.g., if any adverse events should occur. The lot number may be placed in form of the embossed number of date or it may be encoded in the bar code.

Another required information is the expiry date which means that in the given period of time the manufacturer guarantees safety, stability and the declared characteristics of the product. This date should be clearly marked. It is given by placing respectively month and year or day, month and year or by giving information about the place of marking. The date is preceded by the phrase of: “Best used before”. If it is indispensible for the cosmetic, the conditions providing its usability should be specified, e.g., keep in cool place. The provision of the expiry date is The manufacturer’s details. Full name or company

not required in case of products whose expiry date is longer

name of the manufacturer and his address, as well as the

than 30 months, but then the PAO mark, the so-called open

name of the country if the cosmetic is produced outside

jar symbol is required on the packaging. The PAO symbol

of Poland and EU member countries. That information may

(Period After Opening) means the time after opening in

be abbreviated provided the manufacturer’s identification is

which the product may be safely used. In that graphic sign

possible. If more than one address has been printed on the

time expressed in months or years is given (e.g., 6M or

packaging, then one of them should be underlined. Such

24M) which means the time in which the cosmetic may

highlighting specifies under which address the so-called

be safely used after the opening without any hazard to

dossier i.e. the cosmetic documentation, including among

human health. The cosmetics’ packaging should contain

other things the formula, tests results, is kept. The dossier

detailed warnings regarding the use of the cosmetic,

is released only to the supervisory institutions, e.g., the

e.g., of the possibility of an allergic reaction or additionally

Sanitary Inspection.

other warnings if the cosmetic is designated for use by

The contents of the cosmetic in the packaging is given in the weight or volume units. The amount at the

persons using this cosmetics for professional reasons, e.g., a hair-stylist.

moment of packaging is provided. The obligation to provide this information does not pertain to packaging containing

Product composition

less than 5 grams or 5 milliliters of gratuitous samples

The list of ingredients is preceded by the word

and disposable containers. It does not pertain either to

“Ingredients”. The cosmetic composition is described

collective packaging on which the weight or volume is not

according to the names accepted in the International

given if such information is provided on the unit packaging

Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI).

contained in that collective packaging, while the collective

The ingredients are listed in descending sequence

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18 | Polish industry according to their weight when added, however, the

labels suggesting medical treatment or treatment support.

ingredients used in the concentration below 1% are

The raw materials of drug characteristics cannot be used

listed in an arbitrary order, after the ingredients used

in cosmetics. The information which would ascribe the

in concentration of more than 1%. That means that an

cosmetics the characteristics or functions it does not

ingredient used the most in the cosmetic is mentioned

possess should not be printed on the labels, either.

as the first one. The aromatic compounds are described as “fragrance” or “aroma” or their proper names accepted

Aerosol products

in the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients.

Additionally to the above-mentioned information, on the

Colors other than the colors used for hair coloring may be

aerosol products, irrespective of their contents, the following

listed after other ingredients in any order. The numbers of

phrase must be placed: “Container under pressure: protect

colors must be congruent with their numbers specified

from the sun and heating over 50° C. Do not pierce or burn,

in the list of colors approved for use in cosmetics (Color

also after use.”, as well as the additional warnings regarding

Index). In case of cosmetics sold in many color shades

the use, drawing the users’ attention to the special hazards

after the marking with a graphic “+/-“sign and the use of the

posed by the product. Moreover, when the product is

phrase “may contain”, it is admissible to list all colors. In the

classified as flammable or extremely flammable, it should

cosmetic’s composition the so-called potential allergens

contain a phrase advising caution: “Do not store near the

must also be mentioned, i.e., 26 ingredients of aromatic

flammable sources – do not smoke tobacco; keep out of

compounds which in certain especially sensitive persons

reach of children”, as well as special warning regarding the

may cause an allergic reaction.

use of the aerosol product – “Do not spray over an open

If the cosmetic’s manufacturer receives a consent

flame or glowing material”. If it is not possible to place all

from the General Sanitary Inspector, after consideration

necessary information on the aerosol product of the volume

of a special application for the non-disclosure on the

up to 150 ml due to its small size, it must be placed on the

unit packaging of the names of one or more cosmetic’s

label attached to that product.

ingredients, then, in its composition, instead of the name of the ingredient, its number is given.

If the size or shape of the packaging renders it

Information provided voluntarily. Such information includes: the “e” symbol - provided next to the value specifying the product nominal contents, if during

impossible to print all warnings or the product’s composition

packaging the internal system of control of quantity of

on the unit external packaging, they may be printed on

packaged merchandise was used; the sign “the reversed

the attached leaflet, sticker, tape or note attached to the

epsilon” – signifying a bottle of a specific volume, indicating

container. Then, an abbreviated information or a graphic

that the container should be discarded into the waste

sign, the so-called “hand in book” is placed on the unit

container, recyclable one and not the general waste

external packaging, which indicates the important additional

containers, the designation of the kind of material the

information attached by the manufacturer.

packaging was made of, the “take care of cleanness” sign and others. Other non-obligatory symbols are also placed

Testing on animals Pursuant to the Act of 27 August 2004 on the

on cosmetics which are granted against remuneration, e.g., the symbol of a natural cosmetic after the satisfaction of

amendment of the Cosmetics Act it is forbidden to introduce

specific requirements of appropriate organizations. This

into the market cosmetics tested on animals, containing

question, however, is not regulated by any legal provisions.

ingredients or their combinations tested on animals and

The information and graphic signs are provided

test on animals cosmetic ingredients or combinations of

voluntarily, which does not mean, however, that it is done in

those ingredients. Therefore, the manufacturer may place

an arbitrary manner. If the manufacturer decides to place a

on the packaging or the attached leaflet information that

specific sign, he must adhere to the requirements contained

the cosmetic was not tested on animals only when the

in the proper regulations or other guidelines.

manufacturer and his suppliers did not perform and did not

Therefore a correct preparation of a label for a cosmetic

contract the performance of any tests of the cosmetic on

is not an easy task. At the same time one must consider

animals, its prototype or none of its ingredients and when

many requirements contained in many legal acts, specific

it does not contain ingredients tested on animals by other

for that given type of product as well as more general ones,

manufacturers in order to create new cosmetics.

applicable to all products present on the market.

The Sanitary Inspection and the Commercial Inspection

Representations regarding the product It stems from the definition of a cosmetic that the cosmetic does not treat any medical conditions, therefore,

supervise the marking, falsifying and correctness of cosmetics marketing, which serves the purpose of safeguarding the human health.

there should not be any information on the cosmetics

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13-200 Działdowo, ul. Wł. Jagiełły 40, tel. +48 23 697 01 00, fax +48 23 697 01 64 e-mail: handel@heinz-glas.pl, www.hgd.pl

13-200 Działdowo, ul. Przemysłowa 57, tel. +48 23 697 65 28, fax +48 23 697 52 52 e-mail: biuro@heinz-plastics.com, www.heinzplastics.com.pl

20 | Polish industry

Creating a Strong Brand Image on the Cosmetics Market Hanna Kaczmarek

In the last issue, in December, I wrote about the role of the brand, about its role in choosing and buying as well as selling cosmetic products. This time, as promised, I will turn my attention to questions concerning the building of a strong brand – one which enjoys high sales levels.

Now that we know it is worth building strong brands, all that remains is to decide how. Effectively.

To start talking about what to do to make our brand strong,

would certainly give us an idea of percentage shares of the

we first have to decide what “strong brand” means, and

Polish cosmetics market.

what determines one. The most common determinants

A less theoretical and mathematical determinant of a

of a string brand are its market share (the larger, the

brand’s strength is awareness of its existence. This

stronger), consumer awareness of its existence (the

appears in the literature on four levels. The first of these

more consumers know about it, the stronger it is), price

is brand recognition, namely whether driving along the

flexibility (a stronger brand can charge more) and market

motorway and spotting a yellow and green star we know

presence understood as time of existence on the

that it is a BP petrol station where we can refuel and have

market (strong brands have sometimes been present on

a coffee, or whether we require additional information

the market for decades).

(signs) in order to recognise this sign as important to our

Let us look now at the first determinant of brand strength

journey. Recognition plays a very important role in buying,

– the brand’s market share. Many brand owners aim to

especially in impulse buying. In winter, many women

have their brand control as large a section of the market as

standing in check-out queues reach for the protective

possible, to eat the largest possible slice of cake. Only a few

lip glosses displayed nearby, because even though they

brands, however, hold leading positions and can boast of

are packed in paper they are perfectly recognisable due

a market share into double figures. Only the strongest

to their colour scheme and logo. This mechanism points

brands therefore face problems associated with anti-

unambiguously to the product itself being more important

monopoly actions, since only a few have the potential to

than the need, which here is clearly secondary. We see

master the entire market and all its customers. There are

the second level

many, though, who would like to face these problems, as

of brand awareness in the opposite situation, in other

becoming a market leader brings enormous potential.

words when we first feel the need and then the product

It is very rare for the competition to dare to challenge the

appears. When we have a long train journey ahead of

leader, so the only threats he usually has to deal with are

us and we rush to the news stand at the last minute, we

completely new companies appearing which are sufficiently

have to know what title interests us, otherwise we do not

strong at the very outset to compete, or other factors over

make a last minute purchase. In this situation the brand

which he has no control (changes in legislation).

reminder process is activated, in other words we reach

The sight of one shelf is not always a determinant of

into our memory and know perfectly well which product

a given brand’s market share, but listing all the cosmetic

we want (we picture its packing and colouring) before

products available in the Rossman chemist chain (by brand)

the sales assistant places it on the counter. When buying

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21

washing powder we see an identical situation – nobody

the product looked like, but we know that Coca Cola has

buys it when they do not have dirty clothes or are

always been red, and Nivea cream blue. The length of a

taking them to the dry-cleaner’s. The next level of brand

brand’s presence on the market is incontrovertible proof

awareness, the third, is when the majority of those polled

for us of its strength, both in the common perception and

in a consumer survey name it first. We can also see such

for marketing considerations.

brand reference in everyday life, such as when we stop by

A description of the main determinants of

a local corner shop after work, where lack of self-service

a brand’s strength is like a catalogue of its

means we are forced to ask for a specific product, or at

characteristics, a collection of the most important

the chemist’s when we have to name the hand cream

information about it. Knowing what matters to the

we wish to buy. The last level of brand awareness is the

brand, we can select the tools we will use to shape its

domination of one brand in an entire product category,

image.

a phenomenon that forms a huge barrier to the introduction of new products and brands onto the market.

Brand awareness is very important, as it provides

There are many tools, but I will concentrate on those which are of the greatest importance for creating a strong brand image on the cosmetics

the foundation for all other actions connected with

market. I will thus ignore sales promotions, such as price

creating an image for a brand, as I will discuss later in

reductions which, in aiming at a short-term sales boost very

this article.

often lower the value of the brand, make it available for very

After this description of a brand’s market share and

little money - often too little for the originally created value or

awareness of its existence, let us return to what makes

its ways of meeting our needs. An anti-wrinkle cream which

the brand strong, to the third determinant of brand strength

was initially very expensive loses in our eyes (also with

- price flexibility with regard to its products. This is a

regard to efficiency) when sales staff or manufacturers offer

target requiring a great deal of work, but it gives excellent

to sell us it for the same price as nail-polish remover. I will

results, in particular economically and financially. When

therefore concentrate on such tools as advertising, public

a brand is strong, its price flexibility decreases, because

relations and a few others, the more sophisticated.

when its price rises demand for it does not fall because there is still a group of people interested in buying it.

The fourth and final determinant of a brand’s strength

Before I get to the heart of the matter, I would also like to add that building the image of a strong brand is very closely linked with positioning it. A strong brand is not necessarily

is its time of existence on the market. In the popular

the most expensive, as it can be the strongest in its

perception of strong brands, these are most often

category, e.g. the mid-price category, and conversely a very

considered those which have been present in our homes

highly placed brand does not necessarily have to be strong.

for years. We no longer remember what the original logo on

It may be the one that exclusive magazines write about, or

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22 | Polish industry

that major opinion leaders promote, but at the same time

product? How favourably disposed is he towards it? What

might occupy a niche with regard to sales levels.

factors influence consumers in assessing our brand? It

Turning to the tools for creating a brand image, let us

is only the answers to these questions that can provide a

start with advertising. As I already mentioned, awareness

reliable basis to start planning and introducing the process

is a condition necessary for any further work on a brand.

of creating the desired image. It must be remembered that

In the case of the cosmetic products market the role of

nobody else can differentiate the desired and actual image

advertising is far greater than for services, for example. A

of a brand the way public relations specialists do. They

cosmetics advertisement is an advert for a product which

create a range of actions based on their imagination of

we will buy, take home and use as we see fit. Things are

how their brand should be perceived, and how it actually

completely different in the case of services which we buy

is. Sometimes the imagination and the actual facts may

from someone, and which someone else is to provide us

be very similar, and sometimes entirely different. The aim

later. Simply speaking, we believe adverts for products

of public relations will of course be to unite these as much

more than adverts for services, so cosmetics manufacturers

as possible. We already know that PR is actions aimed

should also attach importance to their advertising. Every

at creating a brand image and managing it appropriately,

manufacturer should remember that the communicative

but we should remember that all of these actions must

aim of every advert should be to raise the level of brand

be thought over and planned if they are really to influence

recognition. To achieve this, regardless of the advertising

the achievement and maintenance of an understanding

medium used, the brand’s logo and the cosmetics’

between the brand and its consumers.

packaging should be its colour and shape – and the

Somewhere between being part of public relations and

consumer’s attention should be drawn to the need which

being a separate instrument for marketing communication

the cosmetic satisfies (the problem of dandruff for anti-

lies sponsoring. Financial support by a given brand for

dandruff shampoo, or of contraction of pores for anti-acne

a specific sporting discipline, artist or charity campaign

cleansing gel). Even when selecting the advertising medium

provides it with the opportunity to become quickly identified

(press, radio, television) we should bear in mind not only

with given values, such as health and vitality (in the case of

the target group of consumers potentially interested in

sport), sophistication and spirituality (an artist) or goodness

the product, but also above all the level that the chosen

and love (a charity campaign). This gives effects very quickly,

media represents. It would be difficult to believe in an

so the choice of what to sponsor should be preceded by an

expensive skin care product for adults if it was advertised

analysis of the values associated with it. Sponsoring gives

in a magazine for young girls, or a tabloid. Similarly, if we

strong brands a lot of room to manoeuvre, since they usually

want to advertise a perfume for men whose entire life is

have large financial potential and can shine along with truly

their professional business and the successes that it brings,

important (and equally strong) events, people and institutions.

there is no point having the advert screened at any time

One of the newest methods of creating a brand image is

other than when the national or world news is being shown,

e-branding, a set of actions building up the brand image

or there are reports from the stock exchange.

online and with the aid of the internet. This necessarily involves

Public relations is a masterpiece when it comes to

having a website dedicated to the brand. It is worth mentioning

image management, since no other marketing tool (PR is

here that it is increasingly uncommon to create massive

often referred to as the fifth element in the marketing mix)

websites dedicated to a company and all its products and

is so concentrated on creating and developing image. To

brands, as it is much better to create a single corporate site

implement image marketing for a brand, we must first carry

and several product or brand sites. In this case the partner or

out several surveys and analyses to answer three questions:

consumer looks at the page which interests him and does not

How much knowledge does the consumer have about the

have to wade through masses of irrelevant information – he

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benefits of the product or the strong points of the brand.

ADVERTISEMENT

simply concentrates on what is most important, such as the The website is a modern type of business card, so its address should be very easy to remember and should reflect the contents as accurately as possible. A website allows the manufacturer to present himself or his products and brands, we can call it the first step on the internet planet. The choice of what comes next should be well thought out and closely related to the brand’s positioning. Here we have at our disposal internet banners, sponsored links and viral marketing, however all of these must be linked to other sites and so it is imperative

Production: • bottles, • jars, • closures.

to know the profiles and users of those sites. First of all, it is not worth putting banners for anti-cellulite products on pages dedicated to motoring, which women view far less often than pages dealing with cooking, and secondly if we want our product to be seen as exclusive (and therefore expensive) then creating a website for them with the domain name superbargain.com will not only be deceptive for the customers or prevent the real target group from taking an interest in it (after all a link which smells cheap is not for them), but also have an adverse influence on the image of the brand. Not specifying the brand’s value clearly enough always serves to weaken its image.

Product placement is not such a new field as e-branding, but it is certainly (when properly done) far more subtle as well as effective. Polish cinema has, unfortunately, taught us an entirely different, and rather negative, idea of this type of promotion, but when we take a look at its definition the difference is clear, as is its potential. Polish films show their heroines using one and the same face cream several times a day, or reaching in ultra-slow motion for the shampoo. The point of product placement, and its definition, is that it involves placing a product or defined consumer behaviour in a film (not only, of course, as it can also involve a play, music video or book). Commercial principles obviously apply, and both brands (the film and the product or brand being placed) must benefit from actions of this type. I consider subjectively that product placement may be one of the most perfect ways of creating the image of a strong brand, since nothing can be more credible for the consumer than seeing that the star of their favourite serial always has the same body conditioner on her bathroom shelf. I have only one request to the people who do product placement – she really does not have to hold the bottle up to the camera for fifteen seconds so that we, the consumers, notice or remember it. I think that the more subtlety we employ in this field, the better and longer lasting are its effects.

A strong brand can offer us products satisfying our various needs of various types. A strong brand can offer us shampoo, hair conditioner, nail varnish and varnish remover, creams and balsams. A strong brand can smile at us from every side, be everywhere we go and on the lips of all those we talk to. It should be something we are always loyal to.

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IRAD PLAST

ul. Niemcewicza 4a 05-075 Warsaw Antoni Podlecki mobile. +48 694 340 174 antoni.podlecki@irad-plast.pl irad-plast@irad-plast.pl www.irad-plast.pl

24 | Polish industry

New Cosmetic Regulation – Are you Ready?

Agnieszka Grotkiewicz Toxicologist in Intertek

The Official Journal of the European Union published new Cosmetic Regulations in December, 22nd 2009. From 11th July 2013 cosmetics placed on the European market shall comply with the Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the council of 30 November 2009 on cosmetic products.

The new Regulations (EC) No 1223/2009 takes effect

• 11th July 2013 – Other requirements

as national law within the 27 EU Member States including Iceland, Liechtenstein and Norway. New Regulations

Responsible person

replaces the exciting EU Cosmetics Directive (76/768/EEC).

Only cosmetic products for which Responsible Person is

The important requirements of the Regulations (EC) No

nominated within the Community shall be placed on the market.

1223/2009 are highlighted below.

The following party is defined as the Responsible Person: • Manufacturer established within Community

• 1st December 2010 – CMRs (substances classified as carcinogenic, mutagenic or toxic for reproduction

• Importer to Community • Distributor who places a cosmetic product on the market

substances)

under his name or trademark, or has modified the

– The use of substances classified as CMR

product in a way that may affect its compliance.

substances, of category 2 shall be prohibited.

However, a substance classified in category 2

The Responsible Person is required to ensure

may be used in cosmetic products where the

compliance with the Cosmetics Regulation especially with

substance has been evaluated by the SCCS and

regards to safety assessment as a part of the product

found safe for use in cosmetic products.

information pack.Cosmetic Product Safety Report The document consists of two parts:

• 11th January 2013 – Nonmaterials – Cosmetic products containing nanomaterials shall be notified to the Commission by the

Part A – Cosmetic Product Safety Information 1. Quantitative and qualitative composition of the cosmetic product

responsible person by electronic means six

Includes chemical identity of the substances, intended

months prior to being placed on the market,

function, product name and code and supplier of fragrance

except where they have already been placed

code if fragrance is used.

on the market by the same responsible person before 11th January 2013.

2. Physical/chemical characteristics and stability of the cosmetic product

• 11th March 2013 – Animal test ban – Final ban of the repeated-dose toxicity, reproductive toxicity and toxicokinetics.

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Consists of physical and chemical characteristics of products and stability of the product under reasonably foreseeable storage conditions. d o wd no lwonaldo a*.d p*.d pf dvfe rv se irosni o: n :w w www.farmacom.com.pl w.f a r m a c o m . c o m . p l

25 3. Microbiological quality Incorporates microbiological specifications of raw

3. Reasoning Explanation of the scientific reasoning leading to the

materials and finished products along with preservation

assessment conclusion and the statement based on the

challenge test results.

descriptions set out under Part A. Specific assessment is needed for cosmetic products intended for children under the three and

4. Impurities, traces, information about the packa-

those intended exclusively for use in external intimate hygiene.

ging material Consists of the purity of the raw materials and their characteristics e.g. purity and stability) along with of purity and stability of packaging material.

4. Assessor’s credentials and approval of part B Name and address of the safety assessor, proof of qualification of safety assessor, date and signature of safety assessor.

5. Normal and reasonably foreseeable use The reasoning shall be justified in particular in the light of warnings and other explanations in the product labelling.

Good manufacturing practice (GMP) The manufacture of cosmetic products shall comply with GMP. Compliance with GMP shall be presumed where the

6. Exposure to the cosmetic product The site and surface area of application, amount of

manufacture is in accordance with the relevant harmonized standards, e.g. ISO 22716.

product applied, duration and frequency of use, normal and reasonably foreseeable exposure route(s) and targeted

Product Information File (PIF)

population(s) etc should be included.

• When a cosmetic product is placed on the market, the Responsible Person shall keep a product information file

7. Exposure to the substances Data on the exposure to the substances contained in the cosmetic product for the relevant toxicological endpoints

for a period of ten years following the date on which the last batch of the cosmetic product was placed on the market.

• The product information file is similar to the current PIP, which includes the cosmetic product safety report along

taking into account.

with a statement of GMP compliance.

8. Toxicological profile of the substances Incorporates local toxicity evaluation (skin and eye irritation), skin sensitization, photo-induced toxicity for UV

Notification Notification of cosmetic products shall be made to the

absorption substances, toxicological routes of absorption,

central Commission database which will be developed

systemic effects and margin of safety (MoS) if applicable,

by the Commission’s three ad hoc groups on the future

particle sizes, impurities of the substances and raw material

Cosmetics Notification Portal (CPNP).

used and interaction of substances etc.

Prior to placing the cosmetic product on the market the Responsible Person shall submit, by electronic means, the

9. Undesirable effects and serious undesirable

following information to the Commission:

effects Available data on the undesirable effects and serious undesirable effects to the cosmetic product or, where relevant, other cosmetic products. This includes statistical data.

10.

Information on the cosmetic product

Relevant information such as existing studies from human volunteers or the duly confirmed and substantiated findings of risk assessments carried out in other relevant areas.

Part B – Cosmetic Product Safety Assessment 1. Assessment conclusion Statement on the safety of the cosmetic product.

2. Labeled warnings and instructions of use Statement on the need to label any particular warnings and instructions of use. d o w n l o a d *. p d f v e r s i o n :

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26 | Polish industry Laboratorium

Pracownia Analiz Mikrobiologicznych

Centrum Obsługi Klienta

Pracownia Analiz Chemicznych Pracownia Analiz Sensorycznych

Tak pracujemy • the category of cosmetic product and its name or names, enabling its specific identification; • the name and address of the responsible person where the product information file is made readily accessible; • the country of origin in the case of import; • the Member State in which the cosmetic product is to be placed on the market; • the contact details of a physical person to contact in the case of necessity; • the presence of substances in the form of nanomaterials and: • their identification including the chemical name (IUPAC)

• Where distributors consider or have reason to believe that: a cosmetic product is not in conformity with the requirements laid down in this Regulation; they shall not make the product available on the market until it has been brought into conformity with the applicable requirements.

• Furthermore, where the cosmetic product presents a risk to human health, distributors shall immediately inform the responsible person and the competent national authorities of the Member States in which they made the product available, giving details, in particular, of the non-compliance and of the corrective measures taken.

• Distributors shall ensure that, while a product is under

and other descriptors as specified in point 2 of the

their responsibility, storage or transport conditions do not

Preamble to Annexes II to VI to this Regulation;

jeopardise its compliance with the requirements set out

• the reasonably foreseeable exposure conditions; • the name and the Chemicals Abstracts Service (CAS) or EC

in the Regulation.

Distributors shall cooperate with competent authorities, at

number of substances classified as carcinogenic, mutagenic

the request of the latter, on any action to eliminate the risks

or toxic for reproduction (CMR), of category 1A or 1B, under

posed by products which they have made available on the

Part 3 of Annex VI to Regulation (EC) No 1272/2008;

market. In particular, distributors shall, further to a reasoned

• the frame formulation allowing for prompt and appropriate medical treatment in the event of difficulties.

• the original labelling, and, where reasonably legible, a photograph of the corresponding packaging.

Obligations of distributors Distributors shall verify compliance of the following

request from a competent national authority, provide it with all the information and documentation necessary to demonstrate the conformity of the product with the requirements in a language which can be easily understood by that authority.

Conclusion In order to be fully prepared for the requirements of the

requirements:

new Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 all information on a

• name or registered name and address of the

cosmetic product shall be gathered. Report and upgrading

Responsible Person • batch number and the date of minimum durability specified, where applicable • list of ingredients • listed on the packaging or leaflet

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GMP system can be time consuming for manufactures. In order to meet the data of 11th July 2013 successfully the correct actions should be taken very quickly.

Reference: Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the council of 30 November 2009

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raw materials | 27

Physico–chemical Properties of Liposomes Alina Bazan Experimental Plant „Organika” Ltd., Nowa Sarzyna

Anita Przepiórkowska Institute of Polymer and Dye Technology, Technical University of Łódź

There are available many reviews concerning the

number of the resultant

production, stabilization and use of liposomes in

particles, there are formed

cosmetics1,2). A predominant technology of producing

mono and oligoliposomes that

liposomes for cosmetic purposes has been published by

are characterized by a homogeneous

Billek3) and Suzuki4).

distribution of particle size.

The most important methods of liposome preparation

• The method of injection from alcohol solution – the initial

include5):

material used in this method is e.g. POPC (1-palmitylo-

• The extrusion method – MLV dispersions are repeatedly

2-oleilo–sn-glycero-3-phosphatidyl choline). It has

forced under pressure through polycarbon membranes

been shown that the concentration of POPC does not

with a specified pore size10). The appearing shearing

affect the type and distribution of the size of particles

forces bring about the fragmentation of large particles

that form monomodal systems of a size of 40-70 nm8).

into smaller ones. Depending on pore diameter and

However with a high content of lipids, one can observe

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28 | raw materials

Number of sample

Kind of sample

Components (INCI)

1

Liposome P-MP Z. D. „Organika” Sp. z o.o.

Aqua, Lecithin, Urea, Panthenol, Glycerin

2

Liposome Urea +Pantenol

Aqua, Urea, Panthenol, Soy Lecithin, Propylen Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Propyl Paraben, Methyl Paraben

Table 1. Chemical composition of liposome preparations

the formation of components with a particle greater than 500 nm. The examination of changes taking place during

Experimental The search for a method for the production of

storage show that the stability of greater components is

liposome preparations on a commercial scale for the

lower than that of products of small particles. Wagner

cosmetic industry resulted in the development of a

and coworkers have described the modification of the

recipe for stable liposome preparation based on natural

method of injection from ethanol solution designed for

components9).

the production of liposomes on an industrial scale . With 9)

The method is based on using lecithin containing 20%

precisely defined process parameters such as injection

of phosphatidyl choline (PC) and a proper proportion

pressure, content of lipids etc one can obtain highly

of particular components of liposome composition:

reproducible liposome systems with specified particle

pharmaceutical glycerin (75%), water (14,5%), lecithin

size.

(10,5%) and optimal temperature conditions that

• The film method, one of the oldest methods used by

conclusively enhance the functional qualities of final

Bangha7), previously used for the preparation of multi-

products. Liposomes prepared at the Experimental Plant

layer liposomes. In this method, substances (?) form

„Organika” Ltd. in Nowaj Sarzyna show that a proper

membranes. Auxiliary agents are dissolved in appropriate

selection of raw materials and proportion of particular

organic solvents (mostly chloroform or chloroform/

components lead to the preparation liposomes with a high

methanol mixture is used). The solvents used are then

stability and microbiological purity.

evaporated at moderate temperature (about 40 C) o

The objective of the present study was to obtain

and the film formed is dried under vacuum. Next, the

liposomes without preserving substances. The liposome

film is dissolved in an appropriate buffer, which results

preparations used in the study included: Liposome Urea

in the spontaneous formation of liposome dispersion

+Pentenol used as a reference standard and Liposome

(MLV- liposome vesicles with a particle size ranging from

P-MP prepared at the Experimental Plant „Organika” Ltd. in

200 nm to several µm). If the buffer used contains active

Nowa Sarzyna (Table 1).

components, they are partly or as a whole encapsulated in liposomes. The degree of loading and homogeneity

The physico-chemical properties of liposome

can be improved by repeated freezing (liquid nitrogen,

preparations (Table 1) were determined by measuring

temperature: – 196oC). Liposomes obtained in this

particle size by means of a Zetasizer Nano Series S90

way can be further subjected to the treatment with

apparatus from Malvern Instruments, pH values according

ultrasounds or mechanical treatments such as forcing

to standard PN-C-04963:1989 and acid number (AN)

through membrane filters or homogenization under a

according to standard PN-86/C-45051/05.

high pressure.

The liposome preparations were stored at ambient temperature, exposed to light for 6 months. Within this

Based on the above presented methods of producing liposomes for cosmetic industry, one cannot unmistakably

period of time, their physical, chemical and functional properties were tested.

select the optimal method for producing liposome preparations. Some methods are useful only in a laboratory scale and other are ineffective due to the low stability of

The kinetics of changes in the acid number of the liposomes under investigation is shown in Fig. 2

liposome preparations within their lifetime.

The aim of the present studies was to develop a method

Small changes in the acid number within the sample

for the preparation of liposomes containing no preservatives

storage period (Table 1) indicate a high hydrolytic stability of

for Cosmetic Industry.

the liposome preparation obtained.

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raw materials | 29

pH

Liposome P-MP

Liposome urea+pantenol

7,8 7,6 7,4 7,2 7 6,8 6,6 6,4 6,2 6 5,8 1

2

3

4

5

6

Time of storage, months Fig. 1 pH values of liposome preparations

Based on these measurement results, it has been found

Additionaly, the coefficient of polydispersivity, PdI, for

that Liposome P-MP shows a stability that is very similar

sample 1 is considerably lower than that of sample 2, which

to that of Liposome Urea+Pantenol despite the fact that

can indicate its better homogeneous character. The lower

it has no preservatives in its composition. This very good

PdI is, the more homogeneous distribution of particle size.

feature can be ascribed to the method of Liposome P-MP preparation and its composition (components). Currently, these liposome preparations are being still stored and

Conclusion The method of producing liposome preparations and their composition and components significantly inuence

subjected to pH and LK tests.

the long-time stability of liposomes.

The distribution of liposome particles is shown in Figs 3

The use of natural liposomes without stabilizing substances in final cosmetic preparations constitutes a very

and 4.

From these results it follows that particular liposome

attractive advertising argument on the cosmetic market.

preparations show different distributions of particle size.

This can be due to the method of preparation of these

Based on the liposome physico-chemical and functional

liposomes and their chemical composition that could

properties tested after 6-month storage at ambient

considerably affect their character as indicated by the

temperature, the stability of the above mentioned liposome

particle size, e.g. sample 2 (198.1nm).

preparations

Liposome P-MP

Liposome urea + pantenol

1,4

Acid number mg KOH/g

1,2 1 0,8 0,6 0,4 0,2 0 1

2

3 4 Time of storage, months

5

6

Fig. 2 Acid number values of liposome preparations

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30 | raw materials

Fig. 3 Distribution of particle size of Liposome P-MP

The liposome preparations produced at the Experimental Plant „Organika” Ltd. in Nowa Sarzyna show high functional qualities and create an opportunity to encapsulate various active substances therein. „Research study co-financed by the European Social Fund, State Budget and the Budget of Sub-Carpathian District within the project: Reinforcement of Institutional System of Implementing Regional Innovation Strategy in 2007-2013 in the Sub-Carpathian District, realized within the Operational Program of Human Capital”

References 1). A. Kozubek, Wstęp do technologii liposomowej, WUW, Wrocław, 2004.

2). C.M. Annesini, A. Memoli, S. Petralito, Rec. Res. Dev. Biotechnol. & Bioeng. 2003, 5, 29.

3). E.D. Billek, SÖFW 1991, 117, 617.

4). K. Suzuki, K. Kenichi, Cosmetics & Toiletries 1990, 105, 65.

5). J. Sągała, A. Bazan, Przem. Chem. 2009, 88, 832.

6). Pat. pol. 192587 (2000).

7). Pat. pol. 188497 (2000).

8). A.D. Bangham, M.M. Standisch, J.C. Watkind, J. Mol. Biol. 1965, 13, 238.

9). A.Bazan, A. Przepiórkowska, Świat Przem. Kosmetycznego.

2010, 2, 26

Fig. 3 Distribution of particle size of Liposome Urea+ Pantenol

„Research study co-financed by the European Social Fund, State Budget and the Budget of Sub-Carpathian District within the project: Reinforcement of Institutional System of Implementing Regional Innovation Strategy in 2007-2013 in the Sub-Carpathian District, realized within the Operational Program of Human Capital”

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raw materials | 31

Hair care – modern conditioning and regenerating raw materials Marcin Siekierski Provital Polska Sp. z o.o.

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Hair is an essential element of our image and one of the factors determining the perception of our person by others.

On average, the head of an adult contains ca. 100-150 thousand hairs, which are subjected during their life cycle, lasting 2-6 years, to numerous changes and styling-treatments, depending on the circumstances and current needs.

Modification of hairstyle is the simplest, quickest, cheapest and the most striking way of changing the appearance.

Unfortunately, all kinds of beauty and modeling treatments are influencing the condition of hair, which deteriorates due to the action of high temperature (straightening and drying) or chemicals (dyeing, bleaching).

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32 | raw materials

As a part of the personal care routine, it is necessary to

application of a gel, hair spray, straightener or a curler

treat hair with specific products that repair, moisturize and

– so the application of factors, which modify or consolidate

nourish it, providing smoothness and protecting it from

specific structures of keratin. The characteristic chemical

external aggressions.

structure of keratin in the cuticle gives the hair surface a negative charge, which in turn is used in designing hair

Hair structure

conditioning agents.

The only „living” part of the hair is the follicle, often called the hair bulb. It is a proliferative area located deeply in the skin, from which the hair emerges and is generated. While

Hair conditioning and regeneration As previously mentioned, the characteristics of the

the condition of the cells of hair follicle and hair matrix, their

hair important in the daily routine? depend directly on

metabolic activity and blood flow are essential for proper

the condition of the layers of hair shaft. The condition

hair growth and determine the tendency of hair loss, they

of the cuticle determinates mostly the appearance and

have a relatively low impact on the final properties of the

behavior of the hair - that is are parameters such as shine,

hair, to which we pay special attention during the daily

smoothness, handling, or the tendency to electrification.

cosmetic routine. Parameters such as hair shine, flexibility or

Alternately, the condition of the hair cortex affects the hair

strength depend directly on the condition of the hair shaft.

elasticity and resilience, its strength, mechanical resistance

Hair shaft is the visible part of hair, growing out of the skin

and breaking force. On this basis we can also define the

surface. This area is lifeless, built of horny cells. The cross-

difference between conditioning and regeneration of the

section of hair shaft can be divided into three layers. The

hair. Conditioning could be described as an influence on the

outermost is the cuticle, which is a collection of several layers

surface of the hair and its cuticle, providing an immediate,

of characteristic, overlapping scales consolidated with a fatty

but short-term visual effects, such as improvement of shine,

binder. It covers the next, middle section of hair, called the

smoothness or reduced electrifying. In turn, regenerating

cortex, in which the pigment responsible for hair color can be

means an influence on the cortex of hair - this process is

found. The deepest layer of hair shaft is the medulla.

focused on improving the flexibility and strength of hair, and the effects can be observed after systematic application of certain active substances.

The market of cosmetic raw materials used as hair conditioners is dominated by synthetic substances. The derivatives of quaternary ammonium salts (quats) are very popular for many years. These compounds, due to their cationic nature, have a very high affinity with/to hair keratin, they attach to the hair surface giving a smoothing and shining effect and preventing from electrifying. Raw materials based on silicones (polysiloxanes) are also commonly used – they lubricate the hair and prevent from water loss, improve the shine and protect against external

Figure 1. Hair structure

factors. Panthenol in turn is a very popular regenerating

Chemically, human hair consists in ca. 80% of keratin

ingredient, which penetrates the hair cortex and exerts

– a water-insoluble, fibrous protein, which can be also found

a very powerful moisturizing effect. After the undoubted

in the skin or nails. This protein fills both the cells of cuticle,

success in skin care products, ceramides (natural

giving them a proper mechanical durability, and forms the

components of hair cells binder) and their derivatives gain

fibrils composing the hair cortex, determining their flexibility.

the esteem also in hair care products.

The helical structure and composite chemical composition

Describing cosmetic raw materials with conditioning and

of keratin is variable and depends on the area of the hair,

regenerating properties, especially those of natural origin, it

however the presence of sulfur amino acids such as cystine

is impossible to pass over protein hydrolysates. These raw

should be noticed.

materials, extremely popular for years, can act in two ways,

The role of keratin, its chemical structure and

depending on the degree of hydrolysis and the particle size

composition is the key factor when discussing the issue

of the hydrolyzate obtained. Small particle proteins

of hair conditioning and regeneration. It is the keratin, and

(ca. 1000-1500 Da or less) penetrate into the hair cortex,

particularly the interactions occurring between its various

giving a regenerating action, while the macromolecular

functional groups, which determine the natural shape of

proteins remain on the hair surface, smoothing and shining

our hair, but also the shape that is obtained due to the

it. Protein hydrolysates are a very valuable source of polar

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originating from broken keratin molecules in damaged

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amino acids, which bind with free carboxyl and amine groups

one source one responsibility

hair, repearing/repairing the inner structure of hair shaft.

Furthermore, protein hydrolysates improve the compatibility between surfactants and the skin, reducing irritation and skin-dryness induced by these substances. The most popular materials in this group include hydrolyzed keratin, silk, milk proteins, soy and various cereals or yogurt proteins.

Raw materials underestimated in hair care, although very interesting in terms of their cosmetic properties, are vegetable oils. Their primarily action is based on film forming effect, they prevent from water loss from hair, restore the natural fatty cement of hair cuticle, but researches confirm that they are also able to penetrate the hair. Coconut oil is especially noteworthy in this matter - it is able to penetrate the deepest layers of hair shaft due to relatively low

V I S I T U S AT IN- COSMETICS

Stand R28

molecular weight and unbranched fatty acids. It is worth to mention also the content of natural vitamin E in many vegetable oils, which penetrates into the hair as well and can effectively protect it from heat, dryness, or breakage.

Usually in hair care producut, oils with a light and pleasant texture are preffered, such as sweet almond oil, avocado oil, macadamia oil or jojoba oil.

New possibilities in hair regeneration A very interesting alternative, not only for traditional plant materials, but also synthetic conditioners, are/ is the newest generation of natural active ingredients based on matrix technology. The use of the matrix entails a number of benefits, and the primary is by far the prolonged influence of the active substance on the hair. The matrix, prepared from carefully selected macromolecules, is characterized by high substantivity to hair cuticle, providing a protective and stabilizing film on the hair surface. At the same time, it also plays the role of a carrier for low-molecular active

In Focus: • Slimming innovation – 100% organic • New active ingredients for skin lightening • Anti-aging solutions • Spectacular effects with our new pellets • New combination of actives targeted against various causes of acne • Finally using squalane again: Sustainable alternative from cane sugar • Mild foams for natural cosmetics • And much more…!

substances enclosed in the three-dimensional matrix.

These molecules are sequentially released from the matrix into the hair, penetrating to the cortex.

Using the matrix technology allows to combine conditioning, protecting and regenerating properties in a single raw material. On (the) one hand, through the

We look forward to meeting you at In-Cosmetics in Milan (29 – 31 March) at stand R28!

film-forming action of the matrix a hair-smoothing effect is obtained, coupled with sealing of cuticles, which will result in an increase of hair shine, reduction of electrification and improvement of hair manageability. Additionally, the molecules of the matrix form a protective film which seals the hair, prevents from excessive water loss and protects against external factors. On the other hand, during / with time the active molecules are sequentially released from the matrix - they influence the hair cortex and contribute to increase of flexibility, reduction of hair brittleness and fragility, as well as an improvement of mechanical properties of hair.

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IMPAG Group Head Office Switzerland/Zurich Country Offices France/Nancy – www.impag.fr Germany/Offenbach – www.impag.de Poland/Warsaw – www.impag.pl Switzerland/Zurich – www.impag.ch

Presented by IMPAG Chemicals Poland Sp. z o.o. ul. Wiśniowa 40 lok. 2 02-520 Warsaw Tel: +48 22 542 40 72 Fax: + 48 22 542 40 73 Mail: info@impag.pl Web: www.impag.pl

34 | raw materials An example of matrix-based raw material is Keratrix™, which takes advantage of a special matrix called Matrix-Plus. Matrix-Plus is a combination three different ingredients with respectively cationic, nonionic and film-forming character, which allow the matrix to attach to the hair fiber and act as a controlled sequential release system. The active molecules enclosed in the matrix are biopeptides obtained by means of specific hydrolysis from the protein fraction of carob (Ceratonia siliqua). A unique characteristic of this hydrolyzate is its small particle size - 80% of the proteins have a molecular weight below 1000 Da, with the majority of peptides with particle size below 300 Da. The major compounds of this hydrolyzate are dipeptides and oligopeptides with up to six amino acids. The small size of the particles is the guarantor of their penetration into deeper layers of hair shaft.

Studies carried out on hair chemically damaged with hydrogen peroxide confirm the beneficial action of Keratrix™. After ten days’ use of serum containing 5% of active ingredient, the condition of hair surface and its properties was determined.

The application of Keratrix™ resulted in a smooth surface of hair shaft, sealed cuticles, reduced permeability of hair and increased breaking force by more than 40% compared to placebo. The flexibility and elasticity of hair was also improved.

Figure 2. Images of bleached hair treated with Keratrix™ and placebo

The application of matrix can give interesting effects also in case of enclosure of traditional, regenerating cosmetic ingredients, such as soybean or algae. Examples of such raw materials are Soy-Complex™ and Nori-Complex™ from the latest Hair Collection. Fully natural 3D- Tara Matrix is obtained from the galactomannans derived from the seeds of Caesalpinia spinosa. The matrix contains respectively hydrolyzed soy protein or a Nori extract (Porphyra umbilicalis). In studies with 3% of each active it was confirmed not only the reinforcement of hair, resulting from the penetration of actives into the cortex (increase of hair strength, improvement of hair elasticity), but also a very beneficial anti-frizz effect.

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ADVERTISEMENT Figure 3. Anti-frizz effect of Nori-Complex™

Summary Modern regenerating and conditioning raw materials, based on matrix technology, offer a broad spectrum of opportunities for cosmetic formulators. They provide high cosmetic efficacy, acting globally both on damaged hair, as well as on normal hair. They are easy to use and compatible with most of basic raw materials used in hair-care formulations, such as anionic surfactants, rheology modifiers and electrolytes.

Multidirectional performance at a reasonable price is an important factor when calculating the price of the formulation.

In addition, they are completely natural or natural origin, which is especially important in the time of great interest in natural cosmetics and the tendency to reduce the percentage of synthetic ingredients in the formulations.

Bibliography • Pytkowska K., Pielęgnacja włosów – możliwości i ograniczenia.

Wykład w ramach projektu „Nauka, wiedza, kwalifikacje – upowszechnianie osiągnięć nauki w zakresie kosmetologii” • Białas I., Pytkowska K., Romanowska-Zygmunt A., Polimery filmotwórcze w preparatach do pielęgnacji włosów. Wiadomości Polskiego Towarzystwa Kosmetologów, 2005 nr 3/4.

• Huetter I., Hair care with depth effects by low molecular proteins. SOEFW Journal, 2003; 129 (1/2).

• Griesbach, U. et al. Proteins: Classic Additives and Actives for Skin and Hair Care. Cosmetics & Toiletries, 1998: 113 (11).

• Keis K. et al. Investigation of penetration abilities of various oils into human hair fibers. J Cosmet Sci, 2005; 56 (5).

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36 | raw materials

In the world of butters Monika Żynda

Butters are besides oils very popular fats used in cosmetic formulations.

They are produced in different ways. Some of them are obtained from seeds, others originate by the hydrogenation of oils, yet other ones contain in their compositions substances such as paraffin, waxes.

Met the most often Undoubtedly the most commonly used in cosmetics is

Ucuuba is also a tree from the region of Amazonia.

A mature tree can produce between 30 to 50 kg of seeds

shea butter, differently named from the French language:

per year. The seeds of ucuuba are rich in fat (60-70%), and

karité. Shea trees grow in Africa and their fruits resemble

70% of the fat is composed of triglyceride of myristic acid

small avocado fruits. Nuts found in fruits are an ingredient

which is an aromatic essential oil important to the cosmetic,

from which by suitable methods shea butter is obtained.

pharmaceutical and food industries. Ucuuba butter has

This butter nourishes the skin and forms a protective film

a high melting point(53oC) and saponification value (220

that prevents it from dehydrating. It protects the skin from

mg KOH/g) which exceeds the value of beef tallow and

unfavourable weather factors and UV aggression. It is also

makes ucuuba butter a raw material that could replace

used in cosmetics for dry and damaged hair.

animal tallow in the production of soaps. The replacement

Cacao butter is obtained from fruits’ seeds of the cacao

of animal tallow with the vegetable ucuuba butter solves

tree: Theaobroma cacao. It is solid at room temperature, but

the problem of product contamination from the use of

melts readily on contact with the skin. It prevents drying of the

animal tallow and even gives soaps more consistency and

skin and the development of wrinkles. It reduces degeneration

durability. Ucuuba butter is also a substitute for paraffin.

of skin cells and restores skin flexibility. It is used in creams,

Soaps and creams contain in their compositions this butter

balms, soaps, cosmetics against UV radiation.

show anti-inflammatory effect and have healing and antiseptic properties.

From different parts of the world Butters mentioned above come mainly from the continent of Africa. And what offer other parts of the world?

Other interesting butters from countries of South America are muru-muru, tucuma, bacuri.

Fruits of bacuri tree have usually four oily seeds which dried

The treasury of interesting cosmetic components is the

contain resinous, dark-brown fat. Bacuri butter gives a golden

region of Amazonia. The vegetation of this area it is a

tones to the skin. It is absorbed a few minutes after it is applied

source of unique ingredients, among them butters.

and the skin becomes velvety to the touch. This butter also

Among trees of Amazonia caupuaçu is found. Its fruits

removes spots and reduces scarring. Muru-muru butter is

are large, heavy and very perfumed. They are known in

reach in olein, lauric and myristic fatty acids. Due to the oleic

the world due to cupuaçu chocolate produced from the

acid content it can provide extra emollient and moisturizing

paste which is extracted from its fatty almonds. In the

properties to the skin and hair. It can be recommended for

cosmetic world cupuaçu butter is valued. It presents very

products designed to improve softness and elasticity of dried

good emollient properties and it is well-spread on the skin.

and aged skin. Acids mentioned above appear also in tucuma

It provides high capacity of water absorption, over 200%

butter which is additionally the source of vitamin A, what

higher than lanolin for which is a vegetal substitute.

provides antioxidant and protective activities.

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37 One of the most popular butters used in cosmetics is mango butter

One of the most popular butters used in cosmetics is

the balance of the hydro-lipidic barrier and so regenerate

mango butter. Though mango trees can be found in many

the epidermis. The remaining part is oleic acid, mono-

countries like Brazil, Mexico and China the oil obtained

unsaturated which regulates cholesterol. Mentioned cotton

from its seeds is exported mainly from India. Mango butter

butter contains a significant proportion of vitamin E which

is a good emollient used in different skin care applications,

brings antioxidizing efficacy.

it is widely used in the production of soaps. It has a soft consistency allowing to easy blend it with other fats and oils.

Kokum and mowrah butters come from India as well.

The other proposition of this type of butters is bagura butter. Bagura is not a plant universally known on the Polish cosmetic market. It comes from tropical Asia, and other

Kokum hailed for its emollient property, it is used as a

its names are tamanu or ati. For 50 years the scientific

natural moisturizer to keep skin supple and silky smooth.

research has reinforced the tribute paid to bagura tree by

It is effective for treatment for very dry, fissured skin. Mowrah

confirming interesting properties of the oil extracted from its

butter is high in oleic, palmitic, stearic, linoleic acid. It prevents

fruits’ seeds.

skin dryness and wrinkles. It is a hardening agent in high acid application, helps to form stable emulsion.

Bagura butter obtained in specific process of partial hydrogenation has a characteristic composition which includes acids: linoleic, oleic, palmitic, stearic, calophyllic

New solutions

(specific aromatic acid improving cells vitality), complex of

Butters are sometimes compact and consequently

lactones: calophyllolidyne and inophyllolidyne with antiseptic

difficult to introduce in cosmetic formulations. Their

and anti-inammatory properties, sterols. As a result of

penetration can also be difficult or limited. The solution

this particular composition the butter can contribute to: the

of above problems are butters developed in the specific

limitation of the transepidermal water loss, the protection

process of partial hydrogenation. They have a delicate

and restoration of the skin condition, the prevention of

texture, enable a good spreading on the skin, bring a

premature aging, the regeneration of epidermis cells.

pleasant sensorial feeling. The concept of this kind of butters considers their different kinds.

An interesting proposition is obtained in the above way

Butters are used in different cosmetics: creams, balms, body butters, lipsticks, after shave products, hair care products. They can present a not big percent of final

cotton butter. It has an interesting composition in relation to

cosmetic, but the dosage of some of them can reach 90,

a good balance between saturated, mono-unsaturated and

and even 100%. In this last case, butter become a product

poly-unsaturated fatty acids. Approximately 50% present

used e.g. for massages in beauty salons or biological

saturated fatty acids, among which 20% it is palmitic acid

renovation centers.

which contributes to an excellent stability. Up to 40% present poly-unsaturated fatty acids, which help to maintain

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In the article were used materials of companies – suppliers of cosmetic ingredients.

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38 | raports, projects. plans

Chain stores strengthening position on the cosmetics market in Poland Patrycja Nalepa Senior Retail Analyst PMR

Between 2006 and 2010 more than 1,200 cosmetics stores disappeared off the Polish streets, replaced by nearly the same number of chain outlets, which means that around 2,500 traditional cosmetics shops were closed down in the period. According to our estimates, in 2010 sales of chains increased by 15% while independent retailers’ sales shrunk by around 20%. As a result, chains, which account for 30% of all cosmetics stores in Poland, generated 80% of segment turnover.

Amidst unfriendly economic conditions and growing competition from modern chains, small stores have recently commenced to join together into networks, to have greater buying leverage and thus to be able to negotiate better terms and conditions for purchasing goods for resale,

9 068

8 945

8 361

8 099

7799

7539

7299

8 007

7 700

6 913

6 472

5 494

4 632

3 792

1 061

1 245

1 448

1 627

2 305

2 907

3 507

2006

2007

2008

2009

2010e

2011p

2012p

Chain outles

Independent outlets

Number of cosmetics shops and drugstores in Poland, independent and chain outlets, 2006-2012. e – estimate, f – forecast Source: PMR report “Retail market of cosmetics in Poland 2011.

Market analysis and development forecasts for 2011–2013”

1/2011

to then offer their clients better prices. The year 2010 saw the establishment of such chains one after the other.

Some were the initiative of cosmetics and chemicals wholesalers who, concerned with the declining number of traditional cosmetics stores, would like to somehow ensure they have a long-term market that they can supply in goods.

In addition, wholesalers themselves are also consolidating; by taking over other wholesalers they are enlarging their area of business, and thus are also assuring themselves better positions in negotiations with manufacturers.

Among networks established by traditional shops last year are: • Drogerie Polskie established by the distributor Blysk, • Drogerie Jasmin established by Polska Grupa Drogeryjna from Grupa Eko Holding upon the earlieracquired Drogerie Aster franchise chain and Bravo purchasing group (managed by the cosmetics distributor Adistor), • Drogerie Laboo established by Navo – main partner of Procter&Gamble on the traditional market, • Kosmeteria – Eksperci Urody established through the initiative of Brodr. Jorgensen, distributor of Gosh brand, which is highly focused on professional customer service, • Drogerie Sekret Urody established by the wholesalers Sonia of Rzeszow and T&T of Bydgoszcz; both members of Delko distribution group.

In all, the abovementioned chains held approximately 600 outlets last year. As a consequence, the overall number of

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The aggressive expansion of Rossmann and other cosmetics chains coupled with the development of supermarket and discount chains throughout the country has led to the waning of traditional stores that are unable to compete with such strong players. In order to improve the odds of market survival, some independent retailers have began to join together into chains. In 2010 the market saw many such initiatives, one after the other.

stores that are part of a chain surged last year – according to our estimates increased by close to 680 outlets, while a year earlier the chain storecount grew by 180 shops.

Based on plans and announcements made by the individual players, in 2011 the segment will grow by another 600 shops which in addition to being the result of growth of the market leaders will also be brought on by subsequent independent retailers joining franchise networks and establishing similar groups. Thus, we forecast that in 2011 turnover generated via chains will increase by another 15% while the entire cosmetics store segment will expand by 9%.

In later years, cosmetics chains will continue to strengthen their market clout at the expense of independent retailers. According to our estimates, the percentage share of chain outlets in total storecount will grow from the present-day 30% to 48% in 2012.

Feeling threatened on part of large chains, small retailers may soon not have a choice but to join one of

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the franchise chains. The greater buying power of such organisations, joint marketing campaigns, well planned sales, consistent visual identity and training for owners and personnel are the advantages of chain membership; these may prove indispensible for surviving on the cosmetics market. Though, according to some distributors, owners of individual stores are not always keen to integrate, as despite the many benefits they fear loss of independence.

On the other hand, the changes will be demanded by the clients themselves who will increasingly prefer to shop in a recognisable branded store operating under a common banner, with a unique market persona, exceptional offering or customer service among other outlets.

For more information about the Polish cosmetics market see PMR’s newest report “Retail market of cosmetics in Poland 2011. Market analysis and development forecasts for 2011–2013”.

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40 | packages

Packaging and teatment of packaging waste in the cosmetics industry Monika Blezień–Ruszaj Specialist in Environmental Protection; biotechnologist

In the cosmetics industry, packaging is a very important stage in the production process.

It decides what our product will look like, whether it will attract the attention of potential customers and whether the products inside them will retain their properties, consistencies and usability during the time indicated on the packaging.

When selecting appropriate packaging, the cosmetics industry is often

a waste management plan know exactly which types of packaging

guided by customers’ preferences. Cosmetics manufacturing companies

become useless packaging waste after use.

often employ external companies or staff to give the packaging or at least the labels the right design, so that the cosmetics of a given company are recognisable and the consumer can easily find her chosen brand on the perfumery shelf or in the online shops run by distributors.

The people responsible for the appearance of packaging are graduates

The cycle of production and dealing with packaging and packaging waste from cosmetic products.

INGREDIENTS FOR PRODUCING COSMETICS

of Management and Marketing courses offering such subjects as materials science, packaging and packaging marketing. These courses produce industrial product packaging quality managers. During their studies the

FINISHED COSMETIC PRODUCT

learn the definition of packaging and its functions, discover the basic types of packaging and their classifications. They then use this knowledge to select and design the appropriate packaging for cosmetic products.

The cosmetics industry has been expanding continually for several years, and new products are constantly being developed which must be

WASTE FORMED DURING PRODUCTION OF COSMETICS

nicely ‘dressed’, to make the cosmetic recognisable and the consumer reach for it rather than another product.

Let us consider the natural environment and its protection when producing cosmetics and selecting packaging. In recent years,

CONSUMER WASTE FROM COSMETIC PRODUCT

attention has begun to be paid to ecological threats arising during the manufacturing and then disposal of packaging. It should be remembered that every cosmetics factory has contact with packaging not only during the final phase of production, but throughout the technological process.

DISPOSAL

STORAGE

The semi-finished products and substances required for production and analysis are delivered in packaging. Cosmetics plants which have

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ECONOMIC EXPLOITATION OF WASTE

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41

Along with the development of industry and fast-paced life style, the amount of packaging waste began to increase and become a threat to the environment. It is necessary to consider the processes which packaging form the ingredients used in cosmetics production , as well as the packaging left after the consumer uses the cosmetic product, should be subjected to. Let us think, then, about segregating as best we can the packaging waste left after the production stage.

Semi-finished products, substances and ingredients for producing the finished cosmetic product, as well as reagents for tests carried out during the cosmetics production cycle are delivered in glass, plastic, metal (steel or aluminium) or sometimes wooden packaging (e.g. the pallets on which components are delivered). It can thus be seen that as early as the production stage the cosmetics industry uses large amounts of packaging which, once used, become packaging waste. Until recently, this type of packaging was dumped, and this type of waste disposal is not, of course, one of the most desirable. Thinking ecologically and economically, we realise that packaging waste must be processed. As we know, companies conduct selective collections of packaging waste and send these for recycling. At the moment, more and more of the packaging delivered to both factories and final customers is suitable for recycling, for processing or to be burnt as fuel.

Cosmetic production plants distributing packaged products Each of the companies distributing packaged products in this country, whether imported, in packaging purchased domestically or products packaged for their own use, has a duty to ensure that packaging waste and waste left over after usage can be recovered, and in particular recycled.

The packaging of cosmetic products, semi-finished products or ingredients used in the production cycle should be designed in such a way that the used up packaging they leave behind can be subjected to the recommended recovery methods: • Material recycling – involves recycling a certain percentage of the mass of material used to make packaging; • Energy recycling – a process involving obtaining energy, and packaging subjected to this type of processing should have a net calorific value allowing optimal energy creation; • Organic recycling, in other words composting, is a technological process involving processing biodegradable packaging waste, conducted under appropriate conditions and using microorganisms (bacteria and fungus), leading to an organic product – compost or methane (when composting packaging waste (paper, wood, materials) forming. It should be remembered

Let us consider the natural environment and its protection when producing cosmetics and selecting packaging

that these must be biodegradable enough not to interfere with the composting process; • Biodegradation – during this process, the used packaging should be able to decompose chemically, physically, thermally and biologically in such a way that the final degradation of the compost obtained is transformed into carbon dioxide, biomass and water.

d oe w- wn lyodaadn i*.e pddof pv eo rbsr iaonni :a nwww.farmacom.com.pl a : www.farmacom.com.pl

1/2011

42 | packages Recycling – a technological process of secondary

packaging, are appraised positively from the point of view of reprocessing.

treatment of packaging waste (or selected materials from

Cellulose/paper plants are willing to accept scrap paper from packaging as

the waste) resulting in the formation of packaging or other

long as the paper or cardboard is not coated with paraffin or wax.

products. This concept also covers organic processing,

Glass packaging

but does not refer to energy production. Packaging which

The packaging material most often used in the cosmetics industry is

is to be recovered after use by material recycling should

glass. A whole range of perfume products as well as many creams are

be produced in such a way as to enable a defined per-

packed in this type of material. Glass, and then glass packaging is one

centage of the packaging materials to be processed, and

of the most ecological types. Waste products left by glass are usually

this material to be used to create market commodities in

sent to plants with which a company has signed a 15 01 07 waste code

accordance with applicable EU standards. The percentage

contract – these may be coloured or more or less tainted from the product

stipulated by these standards may vary depending on the

stored in them. Household waste from cosmetics in glass packaging

type of packaging material.

should be placed in the containers designed for them – the white containers. Disposal of glass packaging waste mainly involves recycling it.

Packaging waste formed during the cosmetic products manufacturing process, from the point of view of secondary processing

Glass is not a danger to the environment, it is at most a burden, as glass

Paper and cardboard packaging

ecologically and economically even up to 100%. Used glass is thus a

As we know, paper products not containing any other substances (np. PE), i.e. paper and cardboard

does not decay and therefore if not processed simply lies on a dump.

Today’s technological progress means that packaging can be processed reusable material which can be recycled many times. Using broken glass in glassworks for the melting process reduces energy use, increases productivity and prolongs the lifetime of the furnaces. The amount of breakage added when producing new glass products can sometimes exceed 50% of their mass.

1/2010 1/2011

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As regards plastic packaging, the following are applied:

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Plastic packaging • Material (mechanical) recycling using the thermoplastic properties of the material. This type of processing usually applies to pure (homogenous) polymers or blends of these.

• Chemical (raw material) recycling involves partial degradation of the plastic to low molecular weight compounds, or else complete depolymerisation (to initial compounds or derivatives of these).

Examples of procedures with used plastic packaging: • polyethylene and polypropylene packaging e.g. bottles, canisters, barrels, crates, containers, bags and foils are processed into secondary raw materials with applications in many fields, mainly for the production of technical items.

• foils and bottles may constitute secondary raw materials. In this country the possibilities for processing them are still limited. The waste products may be used in the production of polyester resins, polyurethanes and polyurethane foams, as well as fabrics and foils.

Metal packaging Metal packaging, usually made from sheet metal (steel or aluminium), can be recycled. Waste from used packaging can be separated from other waste products using magnetic separators, then used in metalworks as scrap. Aluminium waste from used tins, once cleaned, becomes a fully valuable raw material for use in the manufacture of various aluminium products.

Wood packaging Wooden pallets on which components for cosmetics production are delivered or batches of finished cosmetic products are shipped to wholesalers and distributors should be used up completely. Wooden packaging in the form of pallets can be exchanged or sent to a collection point – as far as is possible it is better to use up pallets than cut down more trees to make new wooden packaging.

Packaging and the waste products formed from it should be disposed of or as far as possible recycled. Only packaging waste which we can no longer re-use should end up in the scrap yard.

The secondary materials formed from packaging waste in cosmetics factories are suitable for reprocessing and making into new products.

Treatment of used packaging: • SEGREGATION • RECYCLING • COMPOSTING • STORAGE Let us remember about the natural environment for future generations – and by segregating, recycling or composting the packaging and packaging waste formed during the production cycle and lifetime of the cosmetic products we are saving time, the environment and money.

C + N Polska Sp. z o.o.

ul. Wojska Polskiego 6, 39-300 Mielec, tel. +48 (17) 773 80 01, fax +48 (17) 773 80 09 / 14, cplusn@cnpolska.pl d o w n l o a d *. p d f v e r s i o n :

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44 | packages

The marketing role of packaging Urszula Bandoch Cezar S.A. A Chesapeake Company

1/2011

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An advertisement which lasts as long as the product is available on the shelves, which reaches the largest group of customers and whose costs are low – a marketing phenomenon? No. This is packaging – the advertising medium with the longest lasting, least expensive and widest ranging effect.

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45 45

Packaging serves not only to protect the product against external factors – this is a stereotype which has long since been disproven. Packaging has come to be known as the silent seller.

High class aesthetic values of packaging is a requirement of a successful marketing role as the outer layer of packaging is associated with product quality. Graphic elements, finery added to boxes and interesting material forms create the intended effect of luxury, prestige and a high product standard.

Packaging constitutes a means of communication between the manufacturer and the customer through visual symbols which instil in the customer a desire to possess.

The most important visual markers which convey information are the colour, shape and size of the packaging.

The colour scheme of individual packaging has a very powerful effect on the purchaser’s perception. A packaging designer must display knowledge of how colours affect the mind of the consumer, and also take into consideration highly

Importer of cosmetic packaging Packaging for white and color cosmetics Various materials Any possibility of decorations and ornaments We have products on sale of warehouse and imported to the individual order

individual social factors and stereotypes deeply rooted in the consumer’s consciousness, which influence the way colours are perceived, e.g. pink is associated with sweet, sugary smells. In the case of cosmetic care products, the most commonly seen colours on packaging are light blue and white, as colours associated with cleanliness and freshness, and which additionally give the impression that a product is optically larger. These are not, of course, uniform and the colour always includes a graphic motif reminiscent of a smell or feeling of relaxation, e.g. green – a hint of forest, pink – the smell of roses, violet – lavender, blue – a gentle, soothing sea breeze. It is worth pointing out that red increases interest and encourages action, while navy, Bordeaux, black, silver and gold indicate the luxurious nature of the product. These colours give an impression of prestige, and what woman can resist feeling special when buying a product which looks

MEPING W.Seklecki i M.Sworzyński Sp.j.

like a jewel? Remember that the woman is buying the hope

mobile. 609 44 75 39 tel./fax 22 855 75 99 ul. K. Jeżewskiego 3a/27 02-796 Warszawa e-mail: maciej@meping.pl

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46 | packages of being attractive, and luxurious packaging shows the exceptional properties of the product contained within, thus giving hope that the consumer’s expectations will be met.

Men are less regarding as regards the graphics on packaging – they like a simple form of communication without unnecessary decorations, and the most popular colours of men’s cosmetics packaging are navy, graphite and silver.

Experts on colour use propose a few rules: • Colours should act on the senses – stimulate them, bring to mind an aroma, a sense of freshness, the desire to own the product • A colour must be memorable – be associable with a given brand • A colour must look good under in-store lighting • The materials from which the packaging is made affect the colour, e.g. the same red looks different on a white background than on laminate • The colours of the packaging must be compatible with the colour scheme of the product The shape of the packaging is a significant marketing element.

Using an analysis of attractiveness from the customer’s point of view we may achieve the desired effect of communication with the consumer.

Packaging constitutes a means of communication between the manufacturer and the customer through visual symbols which instil in the customer a desire to possess.

The designer of special forms should bear in mind several important elements contributing towards successful communication – firstly the package should be appropriate for the packing machinery so that no unwanted cracks or dents appear during the packing process, and the functionality of the packaging is also essential, as is it being easy to hold and carry – the correct basis weight and supporting structure should guarantee the stability of the products inside. Do not forget about ease of storing the product – too fancy a shape may make the packaging difficult to fit on a shop’s shelf, and it may take up too much space. An untypical shape is, however, a definite factor in attracting attention, which would seem to be vital when launching a new product or rebranding an existing one, providing of course that all of the above factors are retained.

The size of packaging is inseparably connected with its shape.

Cosmetic products are offered in a variety of sizes from miniatures of perfume or travel-sized miniatures, all the way up to family-sized cosmetics such as bubble bath or body lotions which come in large packaging. A determining factor in the size of packaging is the frequency of use of a given cosmetic, as well as the number of individual applications. Additionally, cosmetics with a short usable lifetime come in smaller volumes. It is also worth remembering promotional miniatures attached to products to increase sales.

A product’s packaging as a tool for marketing action takes on particular significance in the case of cosmetic products. Packaging is the cheapest tool for promoting and creating a brand, as well as the most suggestive.

In the hands of experts it becomes a work of art which speaks to customers through its colour, shape and size, subconsciously influencing the emotions of the purchaser and stimulating the desire to own.

Packaging is one of the elements of a marketing instrument affecting the market, with the interest of this activity focused on the end customer, and in particular her needs, desires and demands. Establishing and defining these desires must lead to satisfaction of the buyer’s needs and achievement of her total satisfaction.

1/2011

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Azelis – dystrybutor surowców,

dodatków i produktów chemicznych Dział kosmetyczny Gotalene – polietyleny białe i kolorowe do peelingów ciała i twarzy: Du Pont’a Surowce aktywne: GFN/SELCO Surowce aktywne i emulgatory zgodne z ECOCERT: Lucas Meyer Estry kwasów tłuszczowych: Berg+Schmidt Parafina ciekła: Petrocanada

Silikony: BlueStar Nieorganiczne filtry UV „coated pigments”: Miyoshi Kasei Proteiny jedwabne: Synthron Karbomery Oleje i masła kosmetyczne: Biochemica Surowce firmy: HallStar

Azelis Poland Sp. Z.o.o. ul. Warszawska 39/41, 61-028 Poznań T +48 61 874 70 16 · F +48 61 874 70 24 M +48 608 031 030

marcin.roszyk@azelis.pl personalcare@azelis.com www.azelis.com

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