ISSN: 2081-089X
No. 01/2011 (6) 10 PLN (incl. 5% VAT)
contents 18
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od redakcji Wyda
Rada Programowa: dr n. chem. Anna Oborska
Ewa Starzyk
– Dyrektor ds. techniczno-legislacyjnych – Polskie Stowarzyszenie Producentów Kosmetyków i Środków Czystości
– Dyrektor Naukowy – Polski Związek Przemysłu Kosmetycznego
Kwartalnik Wydawnictwa FARMACOM Wodzisław Śląski 44-300 ul. 26 Marca 31/11 farmacom @farmacom.com.pl www.farmacom.com.pl Redaktor Naczelny: Robert Miller tel./fax 32 455 31 61 tel. kom. 502 084 101 robert.miller @farmacom.com.pl Prenumerata i kolportaż: Wydawnictwo FARMACOM Wodzisław Śląski 44-300 ul. 26 Marca 31/11 tel./fax 32 455 31 61 prenumerata@farmacom.com.pl Cena egzemplarza „ŚPK” – 10 zł Cena rocznej prenumeraty – 35 zł Wpłat dokonywać można na konto: ING Bank Śląski O/Wodzisław Śląski 56 1050 1403 1000 0023 2091 8119
Spis reklamodawców: Cezar Galbex Sp. z o.o. Redaktor wydania: Maria Kubsz tel./fax 32 456 60 79 tel. kom. 510 40 31 91 maria.kubsz@farmacom.com.pl
Irad Plast S.C. Kogotest S.C. „MEDsynC Skotnicki, Weksler” Sp. j.
Redakcja:
Mikrolab Laboratorium Mikrobiologiczne
Michał Łatas michal.latas@farmacom.com.pl Tomasz Butyński, Teresa Kubsz-Miller, tel./fax 32 455 31 61 redakcja@farmacom.com.pl
PPH Interplast
DTP: PROGRAFIKA.com.pl
Statsoft Polska Sp. z o.o.
Druk: Drukarnia BIMART
Trade&Consult Ltd. Sp. z o.o.
Nakład: 2 500 egz.
Zakład Poligraficzny Wiking Graf Sp. j. T. Jakubowski
Provital Polska Sp. z o.o. Rebhan – Opakowania Sp. z o.o.
Magazyn kierowany jest do specjalistów ds. utrzymania ruchu, technologów, automatyków, szefów działów produkcji, kontroli i zapewnienia jakości, szefów działów logistyki i zaopatrzenia oraz działów rozwoju produktów w zakładach produkujących kosmetyki. Odbiorcami czasopisma są również uczestnicy targów, konferencji i szkoleń bran żowych, urzędy, ministerstwa, instytuty i biura projektowe. Redakcja zastrzega sobie prawo do zmian w tytułach i redagowania tekstów. Redakcja nie odpowiada za treść reklam. Wykorzystywanie materiałów i publikowanie reklam opracowanych przez Wydawcę wyłącznie za zgodą redakcji.
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8 | production
The Quest for Quality Norbert Śledź Technical Consultant, Abis
Sample SCADA system realisation on operator panels by Siemens
The necessity to ensure the right quality for a product is undoubtedly essential, possibly the most important thing for every company, and not only those which prefer the TQM approach – management through quality. This truism applies to companies in every industry, with the cosmetics industry of course being no exception, especially nowadays in the uncertain and unpredictable environment of the consumer market. Buyers can be merciless – both the final customers and those in between.
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Example of a PAC: RX3i driver by GE Intelligent Platforms (Source: Astor.com.pl)
As nobody has a monopoly on supplying creams, will a shop order products in damaged packaging with illegible barcodes? Will a customer decide on a repeat purchase of ointment which, at best, has no effect? Of course, we can also use a range of other functional tools in today’s business. The powerful marketing machine cannot be overestimated. Since it is possible to take a simple electronic product mass produced in the Far East for next to nothing and make it into something highly desirable just by adding the right logo, then why should the same effect not work with our ‘miraculous’ lotion? This is a rhetorical question, but a certain consistency can be seen. Ensuring the appropriate quality of our product, even if this involves additional costs in the short term, undoubtedly results in profit, sometimes much greater (although delayed) in other areas. This has a direct effect on the company’s
financial result. In addition, a brand representing high quality products is an asset in itself. One of the applications, and at the same time directions of development, of today’s automation solutions is systems responsible for quality control. Based on specialised devices programmes by experienced integrators, they are capable of astonishingly great efficiency, improving the general result of a production system. These solutions may be applied at almost every stage of the production process, and beyond it. We can look at them both in micro (for individual actions or machines) and macro (for the entirety of a production process and/or logistics). This conventional division allows for a transparent and synthetic presentation of the solutions applied. When examining the micro scale we must first divide the production chain into individual links. We should use, ADVERTISEMENT
10 | production Vision control system: Control of fill level and assembly completeness (Source: author)
Vision control system: Control of bottle orientation before attaching label (Source: author)
for example, the experience of employees with direct contact with production to answer the question of where is the problem, and where does it come from? Maybe automation solutions are not necessary here at all? Often changing the production management model itself, or the management of materials used in production, or of logistics processes, is enough to improve product quality and minimise losses. Unfortunately, even in perfectly managed companies use of modern technology’s achievements is indispensible. The most commonly applied solution is vision control systems, which are becoming ever more common in solving problems with industrial inspection, allowing total automation of the process and an increase in its precision and efficiency. Of course, an inspection may cover various types of products in a variety of configurations of physical factors. Cosmetics are not an exception here. The following types of vision systems are differentiated with regard to the types of instruments used and processing power: • vision sensor (or soft sensor) - a camera and illuminator integrated in a single casing; due to the relatively low definition of the camera and limited possibilities of the processor, soft sensors are used for simpler tasks such as reading codes, uncomplicated measurements or identifying the presence of objects; • smart camera - a camera integrated in a single casing with a computer; due to the great operational possibilities of the software, the smart camera has applications in a wide variety of tasks, including those which require very fast action on modern high-output production lines; • camera – computer system – consisting of a camera working along with a separate PC class computer, this allows for the choice of any camera which is most suitable for the process being monitored (e.g. monochrome or colour, linear or matrix). Most importantly, the vision systems available on the market enable not only automatic, but also touch-free control of products directly on the production line. This type of device may be used at several stages of production, making reaction to any irregularities arising in the process faster. In this way production costs can be significantly
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decreased by reducing faulty products and semi-finished products. There are many options for using vision control – from an economic point of view it is worth using them where they will ensure a high detection rate for malfunctions, so that the investment will translate directly into an increase in the number of products removed from the manufacturing process. There is also a wide range of cameras available on the market, differing in, among other things, size, the industrial conditions under which they can operate, and the way they illuminate the objects being analysed. It should be emphasised here that one part of the system which is often not treated seriously enough is the ensuring of appropriate working conditions for the recording device. The appropriate light sources are used for this – led diodes, discharge lamps, lasers etc. Naturally, tests should be conducted in each case to find the best, most appropriate option. A certain field of vision system application is connected with legal requirements. Legislation demands that every cosmetic carries a clearly legible use-by date. The simplest way to check the date involves confirming whether ‘something’ has been printed at a given spot. More advanced systems recognise the printed symbols, ‘read’ them and check whether the overprint meets the requirements. Systems for reading and verifying the quality of the printed characters (OCR/OCV) are also used to check batches, production changes, etc. Verification may also include reading barcodes or QR codes. Many cosmetics manufacturers use vision control systems to check the number of individual packages in bulk packaging. Recording a picture of a box in an identifiable
Vision control system: Control of cap cleanness before applying (Source: author)
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manner on a computer disc may be used as evidence in quantitative claims. It should also be noted that appropriate programming of a camera, alongside use of even the simplest visualisation system, enables not only the removal of faulty products during the manufacturing process, but also a real-time analysis of the potential causes of such errors. Machine vision is consistently replacing human visual checking. In almost every case it is more reliable and efficient, it is not prone to tiredness, boredom or days off, and guarantees proper results regardless of usage time. It is also worth remembering that use of vision systems improves assessment during quality audits. Another application (which is not, of course, incompatible with the first) in automation to improve quality is investment in measurement systems. These can provide a range of information in real time, such as: • The temperature and humidity in the production hall (which can affect the quality of the product being made). • The amount of material or semi-finished products gathered for use in the production process (this uses advanced ultrasonic level sensors, for example). • Control stations for physical/chemical parameters, enabling control of Ph, water quality, metal content, etc. Still more solutions applicable at the micro level are the opportunities provided by control systems. We can automate the production process by using reconfigurable PLC class systems or more advanced PAC systems, thus in many cases eliminating human error. In addition, data from the control and measurement canvassing systems is essential if we want to create a superordinate control system for checks. Taking this further, it is possible to proceed from the micro to the macro scale. At this level, by using information provided by such devices as the aforementioned: • Vision control systems • Measuring devices • Programmable drivers it is possible to create a superordinate control system. Such an application can, of course, serve to ensure that the end user receives a product of the highest quality, which is good for the company’s image. There is also a degree of choice at this stage, a decision made easier by answering the following questions: • What kind of budget do we have? • Do we want to concentrate on selected elements of production or on the whole line? • Who will be the end user of the system designed, who will analyse the reports and presentations? • What is the output of our production line? Do we produce individual products, small batches, larger batches or en masse? • Do we just want to ensure quality at the production stage, or also include logistics? A well considered response to these questions will allow us to make a decision regarding investment in the relevant software, which may not be simple due to the multiple
reklama masterchem
12 | production
Vision control system: Reading of data stamped on paper packaging (Source: author)
Vision control system: Reading of data on bottle (Source: author)
solutions available. In principle, we can accept the conventional categories of systems based on their range of applications. • The simplest solution is to use a SCADA (Supervisory Control and Data Acquisition) system, which will be tasked with recording data from the production line stage and displaying it on a transparent user interface. This system is not only relatively easy to implement, but also constitutes a basic component in the construction of more extensive systems. When integrated with a data base it also allows access to historical data, meaning that we can follow changes in the production process parameters. There is no doubt that this makes quality analysis of actions easier. • Further up in the hierarchy we find wholesale data acquisition systems connected to an expanded report system • Another link is systems of the MES (Manufacturing Execution System) type. These are based on advanced data bases and serve to manage information about production, starting from recipes and information from the production process, expanded to include checks on the production process in practically every aspect. This makes it possible to review key production factors in real time, such as efficiency, accessibility or quality, thus allowing the process to be seen through the OEE1 coefficient, among others. MES systems as a tool can justifiably be compared with Office. • At the very top of the IT systems hierarchy are ERP (Enterprise Resource Planning) systems, which nowadays are supplied with data from MES in order to have information about production in Planning,
Screenshot – system for monitoring and illustrating microclimate – quality control of production conditions in ICN Polfa Rzeszów (system implemented by Abis), (Source: author)
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production | 13 Example of a PLC driver: Modern PLC driver by Horner – with touch display integrated in a single casing (Source: Horner, heapg.com)
Sample SCADA system realisation on an operator panel by Wonderware (Source: Directindustry.com)
Production and Logistics departments. This is not only functional in large enterprises, these days it also encompasses small and medium businesses. They help take care of quality at the level of an individual machine as well as the output of an entire line.
Screenshot – Illustration of transport and preparation of mixture by Gamrat S.A (system implemented by ABIS), (Source: author)
we can freeze the project at a given stage – one which Of course, all initiatives or investments must be convincing is fully functioning but limited in scope. at the decision-making level in many different departments. • We are not technically prepared for the changes. What arguments are most often heard then, and how can we – Is this really the investor’s problem? Solving all the answer them convincingly? technical problems which occur is a task for the • We don’t have the money integrator. It may, of course, become necessary to – Since we lack the money, can we afford to invest further in equipment, which will increase the continue manufacturing at the current quality level budget needed, but improving production quality which is causing shortages and losses? This with the help of automation systems is hardly rocket directly affects the financial result... science... • We don’t have enough money for this purpose • Can we afford to use the knowledge acquired? – These days industrial automation systems are not – Contemporary systems offer exceptionally transparent expensive practically every investment can be and intuitive graphics interfaces. In addition, when carried out either in a broader perspective or with establishing the specifics of the application it will be regard to immediate tasks in hand. In adapting possible to adapt the functions to our expectations in the relevant solution there is fairly wide room for such a way as to balance ease of use with the quantity manoeuvre as far as the budget is concerned. of data obtained. We can concentrate on the most important points • Our industry is rather specific, and solutions which work which are causing the greatest losses and drops in elsewhere may not necessarily work for us. productivity. Pareto’s 20-80 principle is true at the – This is an argument commonly used by almost every manufacturing stage – 80% of qualitative losses are company in every industry. After implementing the caused by 20% of the machines. Maybe there is investment, though, the vast majority of them find it one bad apple on our production line which it would hard to imagine how they could manage without an be worth investigating? IT supervision system, or even simple vision control • We could have the money for this, but not at the moment. at a selected point. There is actually no industry – In this case there is another option available. too ‘specific’ for modern automation. It is always Investment in industrial automation can be carried possible to modernise production – it just depends out as a pilot. This idea assumes the division of on the good will of the investor and the size of the a potentially large project into a series of smaller budget available for this purpose. ones, which are often functionally identical and fully operational but covering only one section of As regards the signature, depending on which form is the target area. This makes it possible to distribute preferred by a publication – any combination of the data below. the costs over time, and will also allow us to keep 1 running checks on the results of implementation. Overall Equipment Effectiveness – an international standard for measuring the effectiveness of machines. Additionally, if we are not satisfied with the effects
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14 | production
AEROSOL
– culprit or innocently accused The truth and myths about alleged aerosol impact on „ozone hole” formation
Autor Zigler Polska
Imagine that you have to walk every day amongst deadly fire rain. You are only protected by an umbrella which is so well designed though that it is impermeable to lethal raindrops. Would such a protection not be just priceless? Would destroying or holing it be not sheer crazy? And yet, all Earth dwellers are in such a situation.
Our planet is being bathed in continuous sunbeam rain. Truly, most of it is good as it supplies us with warmth and light. Still, some tiny portion has a deadly effect. It is the ultraviolet B range radiation, UVB in short. Should this radiation reach the Earth’s surface in full, it would kill every living thing. Fortunately, our globe has been equipped with a natural screen against such rays, namely the ozone layer. Unfortunately, mankind is destroying this protective cover.
What is the ozone layer? How does it do its job and how do we destroy it? Indeed, ozone is an unstable oxygen variety. It consists of three oxygen atoms, while oxygen normally binds two atoms. Ozone is found in the atmosphere to absorb harmful UV-B radiation while letting the life-giving and harmless light
Difficulties arise, however, when people start bringing into
through. Although other gases decompose ozone easily, it is
this delicate system industrial pollutants. Ozone is depleted
the sunlight action which produces new ozone molecules in
quicker than it is replenished through the sunlight action. In
the atmosphere anew. So, it forms a protective shield which
1974, scientists were able to attribute the ozone depletion to
is self-regenerative. What a genius devise!
chlorofluorocarbon components termed CFCs or commonly
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production | 15 known as Freon. They are ubiquitous. Applied to various synthetic foam products – from isolations to disposable cups and containers, they serve also as coolants in air conditioners and fridges as well as solvents to clean electronic equipment.
Why are they associated with aerosol products? Well, they did a great job to pressurize aerosol cans. Why? The scientists meant that in addition to CFCs being non-toxic, non-explosive, they are harmless and exceptionally stable. Unfortunately, they were right. It is because CFCs are so stable that they do not lose their destructive properties. Leaking from damaged air conditioners and crashed Styrofoam cups, they slowly permeate up to the atmosphere where they are bombed by UV rays. Decomposed, they ultimately release the factual ozone killer, that is chlorine. Chlorine atoms play havoc with fragile ozone molecules which are destroyed. Themselves untouched, chlorine molecules seek further bad-luck partners. One chlorine atom can so act in cycles for over 100 years to destroy a hundred thousand ozone molecules. Relying on computer-aided earth atmosphere models,
?
Concerned scientists started sounding the alarm in protest
scientists kept warning that chemical pollutants would
against using freons as pressurizing agents in aerosol cans.
increasingly deplete the ozone layer which would effectively
Since 1978 Canada, Sweden and USA have banned freons
transpire more and more UV-B.
for such purposes. Another milestone was the international
Industrial and governmental communities had shrugged
treaty concluded in 1987 in Montreal, Canada, which defined
off such warnings in that evidence submitted was considered
timeframe for phasing out CFCs. Consequently, nowadays
unconvincing and conclusions premature.
freons must not be used in aerosols except for special cases
The Discover Magazine termed this dispute „ozone war” and observed that researchers had for years perceived it
like some medicinal substances. Regrettably, bad name stuck to aerosol products and will
as a gigantic experiment of global proportions: Mankind
be quite long until it is gone from many people’s minds. Quite
unleashes every year million tons of freons waiting for the
often, when aerosol manufacturer confesses to his/her trade,
outcomes. Real outcomes took everybody by surprise.
he/she may be confronted with a sudden rebuke: „It is you
Computer simulations presaged that ozone would be thinner by fractions of a percent equally over the whole
who destroy the ozone layer!” Although the ozone depleting agents could not be really
planet while ozone concentrations rapidly fell down over the
taken grip of, one may frankly ascertain that the aerosol
South Pole! As it turned out, computers working out satellite
industry has gone through quite a revolution. Freon has been
data were programmed so as each ozone depletion larger
replaced mostly by hydrocarbons such as propane, butane,
than 30 percent be treated as an error. They have received
isobutene and others. It was not easy as the said gases are
information about the ozone hole for a long time, but would
flammable and explosive. A different approach was required
neglect them.
to the aerosol process technology considering the explosion
For some time reasons have been discussed for
hazard. A front-runner in our market of aerosol making
the ozone hole formation. At last, aircraft equipped with
facilities meeting new higher requirements in terms of safety
measuring devices were sent to the region only to find the
was in the 1990s Pnema Poland, a company renamed to
real culprit – chlorine off manmade chemicals! High over the
Zigler Polska after some transformations. Product lines apply
South Pole, there is a huge eddy current of clouds containing
a separate gas filling cycle which can take place in special
tiny ice crystals. On those millions of microscopic surfaces,
unmanned gas houses. Filling process is closely monitored.
chlorine may dance its deadly dance with ozone.
High-class safety systems in use have effectively eliminated
Meanwhile, the scientists discovered a similar hole over
any fire or explosion risk. At present, aerosol manufacturing is
the North Pole. Seasonally, either of them opens up or
running at a very high capacity and is continually expanding
closes. The austral hole matches the size of the US territory,
on aerosol product range. In addition to helping taking care of
the one over the North Pole is the size of Greenland. As a
personal hygiene, they are useful in households, make lives
result, the Earth’s surface receives more UV-B radiation, thus
of various trade experts easier etc, plus they accompany you
entailing far-reaching consequences.
in your holidays to block UV-B rays.
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16 || Polish Polishindustry industry
Legal requirements regarding cosmetics labeling mgr inż. Wioletta Bogusz-Kaliś JARS Quality Center a limited liability company
The information contained in the label, whether placed directly on the cosmetics packaging or contained in the tag or a leaflet attached to the packaging, should be a source of the most important product information for the consumer. A correct preparation of the label requires taking into consideration many legal acts simultaneously, both effective in Poland as well as in the European Union.
The legally prescribed requirements as to the composition,
laws of Members States regarding cosmetic products
mode of manufacturing, inspection, packaging, marking,
(76/768/EEC). That Regulation shall come into force
storing and marketing aim at securing health and safety of
only on 11 November 2013 (save for some articles
users of those products.
which shall come into force at an earlier date – as of
A unit packaging of a cosmetic should be labeled in Polish, visibly and legibly, in a mode rendering it impossible to easily remove the label. The Cosmetics Act of 30 March 2001 (J.L. No. 42 item 473, as amended) constitutes the legal basis regarding cosmetics in the Polish law. The Regulation of the Minister
1 December 2010 and 11 January 2013) and shall be effective directly in all EU Member States. One must also mention the Directive 2005/29/EC of the European Parliament and Council of 11 May 2005, the so-called directive on the unfair commercial practices. All products introduces to the market must be safe, and
of Health of 16 June 2003 adopted on this Act’s basis
the correct labeling also serves the purpose of assurance
specifies the categories of products being cosmetics.
of safety.
All producers, including the cosmetics producers are bound by the provisions of the Act of 12 December 2003 on the general product safety. The requirements of special
Obligatory data on the label The basic obligatory data on the cosmetic label
provisions must also be met, i.e., the Regulation of the
include: the cosmetic trade name and its category,
Minister of Economy of 20 July 2009 on the detailed
the manufacturer’s details, cosmetic’s contents in the
requirements regarding labeling packaged goods, the
packaging, expiry date, lot no. or any other data allowing
Regulation of the Minister of Environment of 23 April 2004
to identify the cosmetic batch, the product’s composition,
on the specification of designs of packaging marking, the
cosmetic’s function if it does not appear obvious from its
Regulation of the Minister of Economy of 5 November 2009
presentation and detailed warnings as to its application.
on the detailed requirements for the aerosol products. Out
Name of the cosmetic may contain the brand name
of the EU regulations, one must mention the Regulation of
or constitute information on the product designation.
the European Parliament and Council (EC) No. 1223/2009
The cosmetic’s category should be mentioned next to
of 30 November 2009 regarding cosmetic products which
its name. The marking should contain information on the
shall supersede in its entirety the currently binding Directive
function of the cosmetic if it does not appear obvious from
of the Council of 27 July 1976 on the approximation of the
its presentation.
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17 packaging must contain a detailed information on the number of unit packaging unless their number is visible enough from the outside of the packaging. The marking of the nominal volume may be preceded by additional phrase of “net volume”, “net weight” or “net contents”. On the aerosol products the information on the total volume of the container is given, and the designation on the container of the net weight of its contents is no longer required. The regulation on the detailed requirements regarding marking of packaged products also specifies the minimal height of digits and letters depending on the volume of packaged merchandise, i.e., up to 50g or ml – 2mm, over 50 to 100 – 3mm; over 200 to 1000 – 4 mm, over 1000 – 6 mm. The cosmetic packaging must also contain information on the series number or other data allowing for the identification of the cosmetic batch, e.g., if any adverse events should occur. The lot number may be placed in form of the embossed number of date or it may be encoded in the bar code. Another required information is the expiry date which means that in the given period of time the manufacturer guarantees safety, stability and the declared characteristics of the product. This date should be clearly marked. It is given by placing respectively month and year or day, month and year or by giving information about the place of marking. The date is preceded by the phrase of: “Best used before”. If it is indispensible for the cosmetic, the conditions providing its usability should be specified, e.g., keep in cool place. The provision of the expiry date is The manufacturer’s details. Full name or company
not required in case of products whose expiry date is longer
name of the manufacturer and his address, as well as the
than 30 months, but then the PAO mark, the so-called open
name of the country if the cosmetic is produced outside
jar symbol is required on the packaging. The PAO symbol
of Poland and EU member countries. That information may
(Period After Opening) means the time after opening in
be abbreviated provided the manufacturer’s identification is
which the product may be safely used. In that graphic sign
possible. If more than one address has been printed on the
time expressed in months or years is given (e.g., 6M or
packaging, then one of them should be underlined. Such
24M) which means the time in which the cosmetic may
highlighting specifies under which address the so-called
be safely used after the opening without any hazard to
dossier i.e. the cosmetic documentation, including among
human health. The cosmetics’ packaging should contain
other things the formula, tests results, is kept. The dossier
detailed warnings regarding the use of the cosmetic,
is released only to the supervisory institutions, e.g., the
e.g., of the possibility of an allergic reaction or additionally
Sanitary Inspection.
other warnings if the cosmetic is designated for use by
The contents of the cosmetic in the packaging is given in the weight or volume units. The amount at the
persons using this cosmetics for professional reasons, e.g., a hair-stylist.
moment of packaging is provided. The obligation to provide this information does not pertain to packaging containing
Product composition
less than 5 grams or 5 milliliters of gratuitous samples
The list of ingredients is preceded by the word
and disposable containers. It does not pertain either to
“Ingredients”. The cosmetic composition is described
collective packaging on which the weight or volume is not
according to the names accepted in the International
given if such information is provided on the unit packaging
Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI).
contained in that collective packaging, while the collective
The ingredients are listed in descending sequence
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18 | Polish industry according to their weight when added, however, the
labels suggesting medical treatment or treatment support.
ingredients used in the concentration below 1% are
The raw materials of drug characteristics cannot be used
listed in an arbitrary order, after the ingredients used
in cosmetics. The information which would ascribe the
in concentration of more than 1%. That means that an
cosmetics the characteristics or functions it does not
ingredient used the most in the cosmetic is mentioned
possess should not be printed on the labels, either.
as the first one. The aromatic compounds are described as “fragrance” or “aroma” or their proper names accepted
Aerosol products
in the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients.
Additionally to the above-mentioned information, on the
Colors other than the colors used for hair coloring may be
aerosol products, irrespective of their contents, the following
listed after other ingredients in any order. The numbers of
phrase must be placed: “Container under pressure: protect
colors must be congruent with their numbers specified
from the sun and heating over 50° C. Do not pierce or burn,
in the list of colors approved for use in cosmetics (Color
also after use.”, as well as the additional warnings regarding
Index). In case of cosmetics sold in many color shades
the use, drawing the users’ attention to the special hazards
after the marking with a graphic “+/-“sign and the use of the
posed by the product. Moreover, when the product is
phrase “may contain”, it is admissible to list all colors. In the
classified as flammable or extremely flammable, it should
cosmetic’s composition the so-called potential allergens
contain a phrase advising caution: “Do not store near the
must also be mentioned, i.e., 26 ingredients of aromatic
flammable sources – do not smoke tobacco; keep out of
compounds which in certain especially sensitive persons
reach of children”, as well as special warning regarding the
may cause an allergic reaction.
use of the aerosol product – “Do not spray over an open
If the cosmetic’s manufacturer receives a consent
flame or glowing material”. If it is not possible to place all
from the General Sanitary Inspector, after consideration
necessary information on the aerosol product of the volume
of a special application for the non-disclosure on the
up to 150 ml due to its small size, it must be placed on the
unit packaging of the names of one or more cosmetic’s
label attached to that product.
ingredients, then, in its composition, instead of the name of the ingredient, its number is given. If the size or shape of the packaging renders it
Information provided voluntarily. Such information includes: the “e” symbol - provided next to the value specifying the product nominal contents, if during
impossible to print all warnings or the product’s composition
packaging the internal system of control of quantity of
on the unit external packaging, they may be printed on
packaged merchandise was used; the sign “the reversed
the attached leaflet, sticker, tape or note attached to the
epsilon” – signifying a bottle of a specific volume, indicating
container. Then, an abbreviated information or a graphic
that the container should be discarded into the waste
sign, the so-called “hand in book” is placed on the unit
container, recyclable one and not the general waste
external packaging, which indicates the important additional
containers, the designation of the kind of material the
information attached by the manufacturer.
packaging was made of, the “take care of cleanness” sign and others. Other non-obligatory symbols are also placed
Testing on animals Pursuant to the Act of 27 August 2004 on the
on cosmetics which are granted against remuneration, e.g., the symbol of a natural cosmetic after the satisfaction of
amendment of the Cosmetics Act it is forbidden to introduce
specific requirements of appropriate organizations. This
into the market cosmetics tested on animals, containing
question, however, is not regulated by any legal provisions.
ingredients or their combinations tested on animals and
The information and graphic signs are provided
test on animals cosmetic ingredients or combinations of
voluntarily, which does not mean, however, that it is done in
those ingredients. Therefore, the manufacturer may place
an arbitrary manner. If the manufacturer decides to place a
on the packaging or the attached leaflet information that
specific sign, he must adhere to the requirements contained
the cosmetic was not tested on animals only when the
in the proper regulations or other guidelines.
manufacturer and his suppliers did not perform and did not
Therefore a correct preparation of a label for a cosmetic
contract the performance of any tests of the cosmetic on
is not an easy task. At the same time one must consider
animals, its prototype or none of its ingredients and when
many requirements contained in many legal acts, specific
it does not contain ingredients tested on animals by other
for that given type of product as well as more general ones,
manufacturers in order to create new cosmetics.
applicable to all products present on the market. The Sanitary Inspection and the Commercial Inspection
Representations regarding the product It stems from the definition of a cosmetic that the cosmetic does not treat any medical conditions, therefore,
supervise the marking, falsifying and correctness of cosmetics marketing, which serves the purpose of safeguarding the human health.
there should not be any information on the cosmetics
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13-200 Działdowo, ul. Wł. Jagiełły 40, tel. +48 23 697 01 00, fax +48 23 697 01 64 e-mail: handel@heinz-glas.pl, www.hgd.pl
13-200 Działdowo, ul. Przemysłowa 57, tel. +48 23 697 65 28, fax +48 23 697 52 52 e-mail: biuro@heinz-plastics.com, www.heinzplastics.com.pl
20 | Polish industry
Creating a Strong Brand Image on the Cosmetics Market Hanna Kaczmarek
In the last issue, in December, I wrote about the role of the brand, about its role in choosing and buying as well as selling cosmetic products. This time, as promised, I will turn my attention to questions concerning the building of a strong brand – one which enjoys high sales levels. Now that we know it is worth building strong brands, all that remains is to decide how. Effectively.
To start talking about what to do to make our brand strong,
would certainly give us an idea of percentage shares of the
we first have to decide what “strong brand” means, and
Polish cosmetics market.
what determines one. The most common determinants
A less theoretical and mathematical determinant of a
of a string brand are its market share (the larger, the
brand’s strength is awareness of its existence. This
stronger), consumer awareness of its existence (the
appears in the literature on four levels. The first of these
more consumers know about it, the stronger it is), price
is brand recognition, namely whether driving along the
flexibility (a stronger brand can charge more) and market
motorway and spotting a yellow and green star we know
presence understood as time of existence on the
that it is a BP petrol station where we can refuel and have
market (strong brands have sometimes been present on
a coffee, or whether we require additional information
the market for decades).
(signs) in order to recognise this sign as important to our
Let us look now at the first determinant of brand strength
journey. Recognition plays a very important role in buying,
– the brand’s market share. Many brand owners aim to
especially in impulse buying. In winter, many women
have their brand control as large a section of the market as
standing in check-out queues reach for the protective
possible, to eat the largest possible slice of cake. Only a few
lip glosses displayed nearby, because even though they
brands, however, hold leading positions and can boast of
are packed in paper they are perfectly recognisable due
a market share into double figures. Only the strongest
to their colour scheme and logo. This mechanism points
brands therefore face problems associated with anti-
unambiguously to the product itself being more important
monopoly actions, since only a few have the potential to
than the need, which here is clearly secondary. We see
master the entire market and all its customers. There are
the second level
many, though, who would like to face these problems, as
of brand awareness in the opposite situation, in other
becoming a market leader brings enormous potential.
words when we first feel the need and then the product
It is very rare for the competition to dare to challenge the
appears. When we have a long train journey ahead of
leader, so the only threats he usually has to deal with are
us and we rush to the news stand at the last minute, we
completely new companies appearing which are sufficiently
have to know what title interests us, otherwise we do not
strong at the very outset to compete, or other factors over
make a last minute purchase. In this situation the brand
which he has no control (changes in legislation).
reminder process is activated, in other words we reach
The sight of one shelf is not always a determinant of
into our memory and know perfectly well which product
a given brand’s market share, but listing all the cosmetic
we want (we picture its packing and colouring) before
products available in the Rossman chemist chain (by brand)
the sales assistant places it on the counter. When buying
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21
washing powder we see an identical situation – nobody
the product looked like, but we know that Coca Cola has
buys it when they do not have dirty clothes or are
always been red, and Nivea cream blue. The length of a
taking them to the dry-cleaner’s. The next level of brand
brand’s presence on the market is incontrovertible proof
awareness, the third, is when the majority of those polled
for us of its strength, both in the common perception and
in a consumer survey name it first. We can also see such
for marketing considerations.
brand reference in everyday life, such as when we stop by
A description of the main determinants of
a local corner shop after work, where lack of self-service
a brand’s strength is like a catalogue of its
means we are forced to ask for a specific product, or at
characteristics, a collection of the most important
the chemist’s when we have to name the hand cream
information about it. Knowing what matters to the
we wish to buy. The last level of brand awareness is the
brand, we can select the tools we will use to shape its
domination of one brand in an entire product category,
image.
a phenomenon that forms a huge barrier to the introduction of new products and brands onto the market. Brand awareness is very important, as it provides
There are many tools, but I will concentrate on those which are of the greatest importance for creating a strong brand image on the cosmetics
the foundation for all other actions connected with
market. I will thus ignore sales promotions, such as price
creating an image for a brand, as I will discuss later in
reductions which, in aiming at a short-term sales boost very
this article.
often lower the value of the brand, make it available for very
After this description of a brand’s market share and
little money - often too little for the originally created value or
awareness of its existence, let us return to what makes
its ways of meeting our needs. An anti-wrinkle cream which
the brand strong, to the third determinant of brand strength
was initially very expensive loses in our eyes (also with
- price flexibility with regard to its products. This is a
regard to efficiency) when sales staff or manufacturers offer
target requiring a great deal of work, but it gives excellent
to sell us it for the same price as nail-polish remover. I will
results, in particular economically and financially. When
therefore concentrate on such tools as advertising, public
a brand is strong, its price flexibility decreases, because
relations and a few others, the more sophisticated.
when its price rises demand for it does not fall because there is still a group of people interested in buying it. The fourth and final determinant of a brand’s strength
Before I get to the heart of the matter, I would also like to add that building the image of a strong brand is very closely linked with positioning it. A strong brand is not necessarily
is its time of existence on the market. In the popular
the most expensive, as it can be the strongest in its
perception of strong brands, these are most often
category, e.g. the mid-price category, and conversely a very
considered those which have been present in our homes
highly placed brand does not necessarily have to be strong.
for years. We no longer remember what the original logo on
It may be the one that exclusive magazines write about, or
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22 | Polish industry
that major opinion leaders promote, but at the same time
product? How favourably disposed is he towards it? What
might occupy a niche with regard to sales levels.
factors influence consumers in assessing our brand? It
Turning to the tools for creating a brand image, let us
is only the answers to these questions that can provide a
start with advertising. As I already mentioned, awareness
reliable basis to start planning and introducing the process
is a condition necessary for any further work on a brand.
of creating the desired image. It must be remembered that
In the case of the cosmetic products market the role of
nobody else can differentiate the desired and actual image
advertising is far greater than for services, for example. A
of a brand the way public relations specialists do. They
cosmetics advertisement is an advert for a product which
create a range of actions based on their imagination of
we will buy, take home and use as we see fit. Things are
how their brand should be perceived, and how it actually
completely different in the case of services which we buy
is. Sometimes the imagination and the actual facts may
from someone, and which someone else is to provide us
be very similar, and sometimes entirely different. The aim
later. Simply speaking, we believe adverts for products
of public relations will of course be to unite these as much
more than adverts for services, so cosmetics manufacturers
as possible. We already know that PR is actions aimed
should also attach importance to their advertising. Every
at creating a brand image and managing it appropriately,
manufacturer should remember that the communicative
but we should remember that all of these actions must
aim of every advert should be to raise the level of brand
be thought over and planned if they are really to influence
recognition. To achieve this, regardless of the advertising
the achievement and maintenance of an understanding
medium used, the brand’s logo and the cosmetics’
between the brand and its consumers.
packaging should be its colour and shape – and the
Somewhere between being part of public relations and
consumer’s attention should be drawn to the need which
being a separate instrument for marketing communication
the cosmetic satisfies (the problem of dandruff for anti-
lies sponsoring. Financial support by a given brand for
dandruff shampoo, or of contraction of pores for anti-acne
a specific sporting discipline, artist or charity campaign
cleansing gel). Even when selecting the advertising medium
provides it with the opportunity to become quickly identified
(press, radio, television) we should bear in mind not only
with given values, such as health and vitality (in the case of
the target group of consumers potentially interested in
sport), sophistication and spirituality (an artist) or goodness
the product, but also above all the level that the chosen
and love (a charity campaign). This gives effects very quickly,
media represents. It would be difficult to believe in an
so the choice of what to sponsor should be preceded by an
expensive skin care product for adults if it was advertised
analysis of the values associated with it. Sponsoring gives
in a magazine for young girls, or a tabloid. Similarly, if we
strong brands a lot of room to manoeuvre, since they usually
want to advertise a perfume for men whose entire life is
have large financial potential and can shine along with truly
their professional business and the successes that it brings,
important (and equally strong) events, people and institutions.
there is no point having the advert screened at any time
One of the newest methods of creating a brand image is
other than when the national or world news is being shown,
e-branding, a set of actions building up the brand image
or there are reports from the stock exchange.
online and with the aid of the internet. This necessarily involves
Public relations is a masterpiece when it comes to
having a website dedicated to the brand. It is worth mentioning
image management, since no other marketing tool (PR is
here that it is increasingly uncommon to create massive
often referred to as the fifth element in the marketing mix)
websites dedicated to a company and all its products and
is so concentrated on creating and developing image. To
brands, as it is much better to create a single corporate site
implement image marketing for a brand, we must first carry
and several product or brand sites. In this case the partner or
out several surveys and analyses to answer three questions:
consumer looks at the page which interests him and does not
How much knowledge does the consumer have about the
have to wade through masses of irrelevant information – he
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benefits of the product or the strong points of the brand.
ADVERTISEMENT
simply concentrates on what is most important, such as the The website is a modern type of business card, so its address should be very easy to remember and should reflect the contents as accurately as possible. A website allows the manufacturer to present himself or his products and brands, we can call it the first step on the internet planet. The choice of what comes next should be well thought out and closely related to the brand’s positioning. Here we have at our disposal internet banners, sponsored links and viral marketing, however all of these must be linked to other sites and so it is imperative
Production: • bottles, • jars, • closures.
to know the profiles and users of those sites. First of all, it is not worth putting banners for anti-cellulite products on pages dedicated to motoring, which women view far less often than pages dealing with cooking, and secondly if we want our product to be seen as exclusive (and therefore expensive) then creating a website for them with the domain name superbargain.com will not only be deceptive for the customers or prevent the real target group from taking an interest in it (after all a link which smells cheap is not for them), but also have an adverse influence on the image of the brand. Not specifying the brand’s value clearly enough always serves to weaken its image. Product placement is not such a new field as e-branding, but it is certainly (when properly done) far more subtle as well as effective. Polish cinema has, unfortunately, taught us an entirely different, and rather negative, idea of this type of promotion, but when we take a look at its definition the difference is clear, as is its potential. Polish films show their heroines using one and the same face cream several times a day, or reaching in ultra-slow motion for the shampoo. The point of product placement, and its definition, is that it involves placing a product or defined consumer behaviour in a film (not only, of course, as it can also involve a play, music video or book). Commercial principles obviously apply, and both brands (the film and the product or brand being placed) must benefit from actions of this type. I consider subjectively that product placement may be one of the most perfect ways of creating the image of a strong brand, since nothing can be more credible for the consumer than seeing that the star of their favourite serial always has the same body conditioner on her bathroom shelf. I have only one request to the people who do product placement – she really does not have to hold the bottle up to the camera for fifteen seconds so that we, the consumers, notice or remember it. I think that the more subtlety we employ in this field, the better and longer lasting are its effects. A strong brand can offer us products satisfying our various needs of various types. A strong brand can offer us shampoo, hair conditioner, nail varnish and varnish remover, creams and balsams. A strong brand can smile at us from every side, be everywhere we go and on the lips of all those we talk to. It should be something we are always loyal to.
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IRAD PLAST
ul. Niemcewicza 4a 05-075 Warsaw Antoni Podlecki mobile. +48 694 340 174 antoni.podlecki@irad-plast.pl irad-plast@irad-plast.pl www.irad-plast.pl
24 | Polish industry
New Cosmetic Regulation – Are you Ready? Agnieszka Grotkiewicz Toxicologist in Intertek
The Official Journal of the European Union published new Cosmetic Regulations in December, 22nd 2009. From 11th July 2013 cosmetics placed on the European market shall comply with the Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the council of 30 November 2009 on cosmetic products.
The new Regulations (EC) No 1223/2009 takes effect
• 11th July 2013 – Other requirements
as national law within the 27 EU Member States including Iceland, Liechtenstein and Norway. New Regulations
Responsible person
replaces the exciting EU Cosmetics Directive (76/768/EEC).
Only cosmetic products for which Responsible Person is
The important requirements of the Regulations (EC) No
nominated within the Community shall be placed on the market.
1223/2009 are highlighted below.
The following party is defined as the Responsible Person: • Manufacturer established within Community
• 1st December 2010 – CMRs (substances classified as carcinogenic, mutagenic or toxic for reproduction
• Importer to Community • Distributor who places a cosmetic product on the market
substances)
under his name or trademark, or has modified the
– The use of substances classified as CMR
product in a way that may affect its compliance.
substances, of category 2 shall be prohibited. However, a substance classified in category 2
The Responsible Person is required to ensure
may be used in cosmetic products where the
compliance with the Cosmetics Regulation especially with
substance has been evaluated by the SCCS and
regards to safety assessment as a part of the product
found safe for use in cosmetic products.
information pack.Cosmetic Product Safety Report The document consists of two parts:
• 11th January 2013 – Nonmaterials – Cosmetic products containing nanomaterials shall be notified to the Commission by the
Part A – Cosmetic Product Safety Information 1. Quantitative and qualitative composition of the cosmetic product
responsible person by electronic means six
Includes chemical identity of the substances, intended
months prior to being placed on the market,
function, product name and code and supplier of fragrance
except where they have already been placed
code if fragrance is used.
on the market by the same responsible person before 11th January 2013.
2. Physical/chemical characteristics and stability of the cosmetic product
• 11th March 2013 – Animal test ban – Final ban of the repeated-dose toxicity, reproductive toxicity and toxicokinetics. 1/2011
Consists of physical and chemical characteristics of products and stability of the product under reasonably foreseeable storage conditions. d o wd no lwonaldo a*.d p*.d pf dvfe rv se irosni o: n :w w www.farmacom.com.pl w.f a r m a c o m . c o m . p l
25 3. Microbiological quality Incorporates microbiological specifications of raw
3. Reasoning Explanation of the scientific reasoning leading to the
materials and finished products along with preservation
assessment conclusion and the statement based on the
challenge test results.
descriptions set out under Part A. Specific assessment is needed for cosmetic products intended for children under the three and
4. Impurities, traces, information about the packa-
those intended exclusively for use in external intimate hygiene.
ging material Consists of the purity of the raw materials and their characteristics e.g. purity and stability) along with of purity and stability of packaging material.
4. Assessor’s credentials and approval of part B Name and address of the safety assessor, proof of qualification of safety assessor, date and signature of safety assessor.
5. Normal and reasonably foreseeable use The reasoning shall be justified in particular in the light of warnings and other explanations in the product labelling.
Good manufacturing practice (GMP) The manufacture of cosmetic products shall comply with GMP. Compliance with GMP shall be presumed where the
6. Exposure to the cosmetic product The site and surface area of application, amount of
manufacture is in accordance with the relevant harmonized standards, e.g. ISO 22716.
product applied, duration and frequency of use, normal and reasonably foreseeable exposure route(s) and targeted
Product Information File (PIF)
population(s) etc should be included.
• When a cosmetic product is placed on the market, the Responsible Person shall keep a product information file
7. Exposure to the substances Data on the exposure to the substances contained in the cosmetic product for the relevant toxicological endpoints
for a period of ten years following the date on which the last batch of the cosmetic product was placed on the market. • The product information file is similar to the current PIP, which includes the cosmetic product safety report along
taking into account.
with a statement of GMP compliance. 8. Toxicological profile of the substances Incorporates local toxicity evaluation (skin and eye irritation), skin sensitization, photo-induced toxicity for UV
Notification Notification of cosmetic products shall be made to the
absorption substances, toxicological routes of absorption,
central Commission database which will be developed
systemic effects and margin of safety (MoS) if applicable,
by the Commission’s three ad hoc groups on the future
particle sizes, impurities of the substances and raw material
Cosmetics Notification Portal (CPNP).
used and interaction of substances etc.
Prior to placing the cosmetic product on the market the Responsible Person shall submit, by electronic means, the
9. Undesirable effects and serious undesirable
following information to the Commission:
effects Available data on the undesirable effects and serious undesirable effects to the cosmetic product or, where relevant, other cosmetic products. This includes statistical data. 10.
Information on the cosmetic product
Relevant information such as existing studies from human volunteers or the duly confirmed and substantiated findings of risk assessments carried out in other relevant areas.
Part B – Cosmetic Product Safety Assessment 1. Assessment conclusion Statement on the safety of the cosmetic product. 2. Labeled warnings and instructions of use Statement on the need to label any particular warnings and instructions of use. d o w n l o a d *. p d f v e r s i o n :
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26 | Polish industry Laboratorium
Pracownia Analiz Mikrobiologicznych
Centrum Obsługi Klienta
Pracownia Analiz Chemicznych Pracownia Analiz Sensorycznych
Tak pracujemy • the category of cosmetic product and its name or names, enabling its specific identification; • the name and address of the responsible person where the product information file is made readily accessible; • the country of origin in the case of import; • the Member State in which the cosmetic product is to be placed on the market; • the contact details of a physical person to contact in the case of necessity; • the presence of substances in the form of nanomaterials and: • their identification including the chemical name (IUPAC)
• Where distributors consider or have reason to believe that: a cosmetic product is not in conformity with the requirements laid down in this Regulation; they shall not make the product available on the market until it has been brought into conformity with the applicable requirements. • Furthermore, where the cosmetic product presents a risk to human health, distributors shall immediately inform the responsible person and the competent national authorities of the Member States in which they made the product available, giving details, in particular, of the non-compliance and of the corrective measures taken. • Distributors shall ensure that, while a product is under
and other descriptors as specified in point 2 of the
their responsibility, storage or transport conditions do not
Preamble to Annexes II to VI to this Regulation;
jeopardise its compliance with the requirements set out
• the reasonably foreseeable exposure conditions; • the name and the Chemicals Abstracts Service (CAS) or EC
in the Regulation. Distributors shall cooperate with competent authorities, at
number of substances classified as carcinogenic, mutagenic
the request of the latter, on any action to eliminate the risks
or toxic for reproduction (CMR), of category 1A or 1B, under
posed by products which they have made available on the
Part 3 of Annex VI to Regulation (EC) No 1272/2008;
market. In particular, distributors shall, further to a reasoned
• the frame formulation allowing for prompt and appropriate medical treatment in the event of difficulties. • the original labelling, and, where reasonably legible, a photograph of the corresponding packaging.
Obligations of distributors Distributors shall verify compliance of the following
request from a competent national authority, provide it with all the information and documentation necessary to demonstrate the conformity of the product with the requirements in a language which can be easily understood by that authority.
Conclusion In order to be fully prepared for the requirements of the
requirements:
new Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 all information on a
• name or registered name and address of the
cosmetic product shall be gathered. Report and upgrading
Responsible Person • batch number and the date of minimum durability specified, where applicable • list of ingredients • listed on the packaging or leaflet
1/2011
GMP system can be time consuming for manufactures. In order to meet the data of 11th July 2013 successfully the correct actions should be taken very quickly. Reference: Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the council of 30 November 2009
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raw materials | 27
Physico–chemical Properties of Liposomes Alina Bazan Experimental Plant „Organika” Ltd., Nowa Sarzyna
Anita Przepiórkowska Institute of Polymer and Dye Technology, Technical University of Łódź
There are available many reviews concerning the
number of the resultant
production, stabilization and use of liposomes in
particles, there are formed
cosmetics1,2). A predominant technology of producing
mono and oligoliposomes that
liposomes for cosmetic purposes has been published by
are characterized by a homogeneous
Billek3) and Suzuki4).
distribution of particle size.
The most important methods of liposome preparation
• The method of injection from alcohol solution – the initial
include5):
material used in this method is e.g. POPC (1-palmitylo-
• The extrusion method – MLV dispersions are repeatedly
2-oleilo–sn-glycero-3-phosphatidyl choline). It has
forced under pressure through polycarbon membranes
been shown that the concentration of POPC does not
with a specified pore size10). The appearing shearing
affect the type and distribution of the size of particles
forces bring about the fragmentation of large particles
that form monomodal systems of a size of 40-70 nm8).
into smaller ones. Depending on pore diameter and
However with a high content of lipids, one can observe
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Number of sample
Kind of sample
Components (INCI)
1
Liposome P-MP Z. D. „Organika” Sp. z o.o.
Aqua, Lecithin, Urea, Panthenol, Glycerin
2
Liposome Urea +Pantenol
Aqua, Urea, Panthenol, Soy Lecithin, Propylen Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Propyl Paraben, Methyl Paraben
Table 1. Chemical composition of liposome preparations
the formation of components with a particle greater than 500 nm. The examination of changes taking place during
Experimental The search for a method for the production of
storage show that the stability of greater components is
liposome preparations on a commercial scale for the
lower than that of products of small particles. Wagner
cosmetic industry resulted in the development of a
and coworkers have described the modification of the
recipe for stable liposome preparation based on natural
method of injection from ethanol solution designed for
components9).
the production of liposomes on an industrial scale . With 9)
The method is based on using lecithin containing 20%
precisely defined process parameters such as injection
of phosphatidyl choline (PC) and a proper proportion
pressure, content of lipids etc one can obtain highly
of particular components of liposome composition:
reproducible liposome systems with specified particle
pharmaceutical glycerin (75%), water (14,5%), lecithin
size.
(10,5%) and optimal temperature conditions that
• The film method, one of the oldest methods used by
conclusively enhance the functional qualities of final
Bangha7), previously used for the preparation of multi-
products. Liposomes prepared at the Experimental Plant
layer liposomes. In this method, substances (?) form
„Organika” Ltd. in Nowaj Sarzyna show that a proper
membranes. Auxiliary agents are dissolved in appropriate
selection of raw materials and proportion of particular
organic solvents (mostly chloroform or chloroform/
components lead to the preparation liposomes with a high
methanol mixture is used). The solvents used are then
stability and microbiological purity.
evaporated at moderate temperature (about 40 C) o
The objective of the present study was to obtain
and the film formed is dried under vacuum. Next, the
liposomes without preserving substances. The liposome
film is dissolved in an appropriate buffer, which results
preparations used in the study included: Liposome Urea
in the spontaneous formation of liposome dispersion
+Pentenol used as a reference standard and Liposome
(MLV- liposome vesicles with a particle size ranging from
P-MP prepared at the Experimental Plant „Organika” Ltd. in
200 nm to several µm). If the buffer used contains active
Nowa Sarzyna (Table 1).
components, they are partly or as a whole encapsulated in liposomes. The degree of loading and homogeneity
The physico-chemical properties of liposome
can be improved by repeated freezing (liquid nitrogen,
preparations (Table 1) were determined by measuring
temperature: – 196oC). Liposomes obtained in this
particle size by means of a Zetasizer Nano Series S90
way can be further subjected to the treatment with
apparatus from Malvern Instruments, pH values according
ultrasounds or mechanical treatments such as forcing
to standard PN-C-04963:1989 and acid number (AN)
through membrane filters or homogenization under a
according to standard PN-86/C-45051/05.
high pressure.
The liposome preparations were stored at ambient temperature, exposed to light for 6 months. Within this
Based on the above presented methods of producing liposomes for cosmetic industry, one cannot unmistakably
period of time, their physical, chemical and functional properties were tested.
select the optimal method for producing liposome preparations. Some methods are useful only in a laboratory scale and other are ineffective due to the low stability of
The kinetics of changes in the acid number of the liposomes under investigation is shown in Fig. 2
liposome preparations within their lifetime. The aim of the present studies was to develop a method
Small changes in the acid number within the sample
for the preparation of liposomes containing no preservatives
storage period (Table 1) indicate a high hydrolytic stability of
for Cosmetic Industry.
the liposome preparation obtained.
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raw materials | 29
pH
Liposome P-MP
Liposome urea+pantenol
7,8 7,6 7,4 7,2 7 6,8 6,6 6,4 6,2 6 5,8 1
2
3
4
5
6
Time of storage, months Fig. 1 pH values of liposome preparations
Based on these measurement results, it has been found
Additionaly, the coefficient of polydispersivity, PdI, for
that Liposome P-MP shows a stability that is very similar
sample 1 is considerably lower than that of sample 2, which
to that of Liposome Urea+Pantenol despite the fact that
can indicate its better homogeneous character. The lower
it has no preservatives in its composition. This very good
PdI is, the more homogeneous distribution of particle size.
feature can be ascribed to the method of Liposome P-MP preparation and its composition (components). Currently, these liposome preparations are being still stored and
Conclusion The method of producing liposome preparations and their composition and components significantly inuence
subjected to pH and LK tests.
the long-time stability of liposomes. The distribution of liposome particles is shown in Figs 3
The use of natural liposomes without stabilizing substances in final cosmetic preparations constitutes a very
and 4. From these results it follows that particular liposome
attractive advertising argument on the cosmetic market.
preparations show different distributions of particle size. This can be due to the method of preparation of these
Based on the liposome physico-chemical and functional
liposomes and their chemical composition that could
properties tested after 6-month storage at ambient
considerably affect their character as indicated by the
temperature, the stability of the above mentioned liposome
particle size, e.g. sample 2 (198.1nm).
preparations
Liposome P-MP
Liposome urea + pantenol
1,4
Acid number mg KOH/g
1,2 1 0,8 0,6 0,4 0,2 0 1
2
3 4 Time of storage, months
5
6
Fig. 2 Acid number values of liposome preparations
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30 | raw materials
Fig. 3 Distribution of particle size of Liposome P-MP
The liposome preparations produced at the Experimental Plant „Organika” Ltd. in Nowa Sarzyna show high functional qualities and create an opportunity to encapsulate various active substances therein. „Research study co-financed by the European Social Fund, State Budget and the Budget of Sub-Carpathian District within the project: Reinforcement of Institutional System of Implementing Regional Innovation Strategy in 2007-2013 in the Sub-Carpathian District, realized within the Operational Program of Human Capital”
References 1). A. Kozubek, Wstęp do technologii liposomowej, WUW, Wrocław, 2004. 2). C.M. Annesini, A. Memoli, S. Petralito, Rec. Res. Dev. Biotechnol. & Bioeng. 2003, 5, 29. 3). E.D. Billek, SÖFW 1991, 117, 617. 4). K. Suzuki, K. Kenichi, Cosmetics & Toiletries 1990, 105, 65. 5). J. Sągała, A. Bazan, Przem. Chem. 2009, 88, 832. 6). Pat. pol. 192587 (2000). 7). Pat. pol. 188497 (2000). 8). A.D. Bangham, M.M. Standisch, J.C. Watkind, J. Mol. Biol. 1965, 13, 238. 9). A.Bazan, A. Przepiórkowska, Świat Przem. Kosmetycznego. 2010, 2, 26
Fig. 3 Distribution of particle size of Liposome Urea+ Pantenol
„Research study co-financed by the European Social Fund, State Budget and the Budget of Sub-Carpathian District within the project: Reinforcement of Institutional System of Implementing Regional Innovation Strategy in 2007-2013 in the Sub-Carpathian District, realized within the Operational Program of Human Capital”
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raw materials | 31
Hair care – modern conditioning and regenerating raw materials Marcin Siekierski Provital Polska Sp. z o.o.
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Hair is an essential element of our image and one of the factors determining the perception of our person by others. On average, the head of an adult contains ca. 100-150 thousand hairs, which are subjected during their life cycle, lasting 2-6 years, to numerous changes and styling-treatments, depending on the circumstances and current needs. Modification of hairstyle is the simplest, quickest, cheapest and the most striking way of changing the appearance. Unfortunately, all kinds of beauty and modeling treatments are influencing the condition of hair, which deteriorates due to the action of high temperature (straightening and drying) or chemicals (dyeing, bleaching).
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32 | raw materials
As a part of the personal care routine, it is necessary to
application of a gel, hair spray, straightener or a curler
treat hair with specific products that repair, moisturize and
– so the application of factors, which modify or consolidate
nourish it, providing smoothness and protecting it from
specific structures of keratin. The characteristic chemical
external aggressions.
structure of keratin in the cuticle gives the hair surface a negative charge, which in turn is used in designing hair
Hair structure
conditioning agents.
The only „living” part of the hair is the follicle, often called the hair bulb. It is a proliferative area located deeply in the skin, from which the hair emerges and is generated. While
Hair conditioning and regeneration As previously mentioned, the characteristics of the
the condition of the cells of hair follicle and hair matrix, their
hair important in the daily routine? depend directly on
metabolic activity and blood flow are essential for proper
the condition of the layers of hair shaft. The condition
hair growth and determine the tendency of hair loss, they
of the cuticle determinates mostly the appearance and
have a relatively low impact on the final properties of the
behavior of the hair - that is are parameters such as shine,
hair, to which we pay special attention during the daily
smoothness, handling, or the tendency to electrification.
cosmetic routine. Parameters such as hair shine, flexibility or
Alternately, the condition of the hair cortex affects the hair
strength depend directly on the condition of the hair shaft.
elasticity and resilience, its strength, mechanical resistance
Hair shaft is the visible part of hair, growing out of the skin
and breaking force. On this basis we can also define the
surface. This area is lifeless, built of horny cells. The cross-
difference between conditioning and regeneration of the
section of hair shaft can be divided into three layers. The
hair. Conditioning could be described as an influence on the
outermost is the cuticle, which is a collection of several layers
surface of the hair and its cuticle, providing an immediate,
of characteristic, overlapping scales consolidated with a fatty
but short-term visual effects, such as improvement of shine,
binder. It covers the next, middle section of hair, called the
smoothness or reduced electrifying. In turn, regenerating
cortex, in which the pigment responsible for hair color can be
means an influence on the cortex of hair - this process is
found. The deepest layer of hair shaft is the medulla.
focused on improving the flexibility and strength of hair, and the effects can be observed after systematic application of certain active substances. The market of cosmetic raw materials used as hair conditioners is dominated by synthetic substances. The derivatives of quaternary ammonium salts (quats) are very popular for many years. These compounds, due to their cationic nature, have a very high affinity with/to hair keratin, they attach to the hair surface giving a smoothing and shining effect and preventing from electrifying. Raw materials based on silicones (polysiloxanes) are also commonly used – they lubricate the hair and prevent from water loss, improve the shine and protect against external
Figure 1. Hair structure
factors. Panthenol in turn is a very popular regenerating
Chemically, human hair consists in ca. 80% of keratin
ingredient, which penetrates the hair cortex and exerts
– a water-insoluble, fibrous protein, which can be also found
a very powerful moisturizing effect. After the undoubted
in the skin or nails. This protein fills both the cells of cuticle,
success in skin care products, ceramides (natural
giving them a proper mechanical durability, and forms the
components of hair cells binder) and their derivatives gain
fibrils composing the hair cortex, determining their flexibility.
the esteem also in hair care products.
The helical structure and composite chemical composition
Describing cosmetic raw materials with conditioning and
of keratin is variable and depends on the area of the hair,
regenerating properties, especially those of natural origin, it
however the presence of sulfur amino acids such as cystine
is impossible to pass over protein hydrolysates. These raw
should be noticed.
materials, extremely popular for years, can act in two ways,
The role of keratin, its chemical structure and
depending on the degree of hydrolysis and the particle size
composition is the key factor when discussing the issue
of the hydrolyzate obtained. Small particle proteins
of hair conditioning and regeneration. It is the keratin, and
(ca. 1000-1500 Da or less) penetrate into the hair cortex,
particularly the interactions occurring between its various
giving a regenerating action, while the macromolecular
functional groups, which determine the natural shape of
proteins remain on the hair surface, smoothing and shining
our hair, but also the shape that is obtained due to the
it. Protein hydrolysates are a very valuable source of polar
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originating from broken keratin molecules in damaged
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amino acids, which bind with free carboxyl and amine groups
one source one responsibility
hair, repearing/repairing the inner structure of hair shaft. Furthermore, protein hydrolysates improve the compatibility between surfactants and the skin, reducing irritation and skin-dryness induced by these substances. The most popular materials in this group include hydrolyzed keratin, silk, milk proteins, soy and various cereals or yogurt proteins. Raw materials underestimated in hair care, although very interesting in terms of their cosmetic properties, are vegetable oils. Their primarily action is based on film forming effect, they prevent from water loss from hair, restore the natural fatty cement of hair cuticle, but researches confirm that they are also able to penetrate the hair. Coconut oil is especially noteworthy in this matter - it is able to penetrate the deepest layers of hair shaft due to relatively low
V I S I T U S AT IN- COSMETICS
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molecular weight and unbranched fatty acids. It is worth to mention also the content of natural vitamin E in many vegetable oils, which penetrates into the hair as well and can effectively protect it from heat, dryness, or breakage. Usually in hair care producut, oils with a light and pleasant texture are preffered, such as sweet almond oil, avocado oil, macadamia oil or jojoba oil.
New possibilities in hair regeneration A very interesting alternative, not only for traditional plant materials, but also synthetic conditioners, are/ is the newest generation of natural active ingredients based on matrix technology. The use of the matrix entails a number of benefits, and the primary is by far the prolonged influence of the active substance on the hair. The matrix, prepared from carefully selected macromolecules, is characterized by high substantivity to hair cuticle, providing a protective and stabilizing film on the hair surface. At the same time, it also plays the role of a carrier for low-molecular active
In Focus: • Slimming innovation – 100% organic • New active ingredients for skin lightening • Anti-aging solutions • Spectacular effects with our new pellets • New combination of actives targeted against various causes of acne • Finally using squalane again: Sustainable alternative from cane sugar • Mild foams for natural cosmetics • And much more…!
substances enclosed in the three-dimensional matrix. These molecules are sequentially released from the matrix into the hair, penetrating to the cortex. Using the matrix technology allows to combine conditioning, protecting and regenerating properties in a single raw material. On (the) one hand, through the
We look forward to meeting you at In-Cosmetics in Milan (29 – 31 March) at stand R28!
film-forming action of the matrix a hair-smoothing effect is obtained, coupled with sealing of cuticles, which will result in an increase of hair shine, reduction of electrification and improvement of hair manageability. Additionally, the molecules of the matrix form a protective film which seals the hair, prevents from excessive water loss and protects against external factors. On the other hand, during / with time the active molecules are sequentially released from the matrix - they influence the hair cortex and contribute to increase of flexibility, reduction of hair brittleness and fragility, as well as an improvement of mechanical properties of hair.
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IMPAG Group Head Office Switzerland/Zurich Country Offices France/Nancy – www.impag.fr Germany/Offenbach – www.impag.de Poland/Warsaw – www.impag.pl Switzerland/Zurich – www.impag.ch
Presented by IMPAG Chemicals Poland Sp. z o.o. ul. Wiśniowa 40 lok. 2 02-520 Warsaw Tel: +48 22 542 40 72 Fax: + 48 22 542 40 73 Mail: info@impag.pl Web: www.impag.pl
34 | raw materials An example of matrix-based raw material is Keratrix™, which takes advantage of a special matrix called Matrix-Plus. Matrix-Plus is a combination three different ingredients with respectively cationic, nonionic and film-forming character, which allow the matrix to attach to the hair fiber and act as a controlled sequential release system. The active molecules enclosed in the matrix are biopeptides obtained by means of specific hydrolysis from the protein fraction of carob (Ceratonia siliqua). A unique characteristic of this hydrolyzate is its small particle size - 80% of the proteins have a molecular weight below 1000 Da, with the majority of peptides with particle size below 300 Da. The major compounds of this hydrolyzate are dipeptides and oligopeptides with up to six amino acids. The small size of the particles is the guarantor of their penetration into deeper layers of hair shaft. Studies carried out on hair chemically damaged with hydrogen peroxide confirm the beneficial action of Keratrix™. After ten days’ use of serum containing 5% of active ingredient, the condition of hair surface and its properties was determined. The application of Keratrix™ resulted in a smooth surface of hair shaft, sealed cuticles, reduced permeability of hair and increased breaking force by more than 40% compared to placebo. The flexibility and elasticity of hair was also improved.
Figure 2. Images of bleached hair treated with Keratrix™ and placebo
The application of matrix can give interesting effects also in case of enclosure of traditional, regenerating cosmetic ingredients, such as soybean or algae. Examples of such raw materials are Soy-Complex™ and Nori-Complex™ from the latest Hair Collection. Fully natural 3D- Tara Matrix is obtained from the galactomannans derived from the seeds of Caesalpinia spinosa. The matrix contains respectively hydrolyzed soy protein or a Nori extract (Porphyra umbilicalis). In studies with 3% of each active it was confirmed not only the reinforcement of hair, resulting from the penetration of actives into the cortex (increase of hair strength, improvement of hair elasticity), but also a very beneficial anti-frizz effect.
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ADVERTISEMENT Figure 3. Anti-frizz effect of Nori-Complex™
Summary Modern regenerating and conditioning raw materials, based on matrix technology, offer a broad spectrum of opportunities for cosmetic formulators. They provide high cosmetic efficacy, acting globally both on damaged hair, as well as on normal hair. They are easy to use and compatible with most of basic raw materials used in hair-care formulations, such as anionic surfactants, rheology modifiers and electrolytes. Multidirectional performance at a reasonable price is an important factor when calculating the price of the formulation. In addition, they are completely natural or natural origin, which is especially important in the time of great interest in natural cosmetics and the tendency to reduce the percentage of synthetic ingredients in the formulations.
Bibliography • Pytkowska K., Pielęgnacja włosów – możliwości i ograniczenia. Wykład w ramach projektu „Nauka, wiedza, kwalifikacje – upowszechnianie osiągnięć nauki w zakresie kosmetologii” • Białas I., Pytkowska K., Romanowska-Zygmunt A., Polimery filmotwórcze w preparatach do pielęgnacji włosów. Wiadomości Polskiego Towarzystwa Kosmetologów, 2005 nr 3/4. • Huetter I., Hair care with depth effects by low molecular proteins. SOEFW Journal, 2003; 129 (1/2). • Griesbach, U. et al. Proteins: Classic Additives and Actives for Skin and Hair Care. Cosmetics & Toiletries, 1998: 113 (11). • Keis K. et al. Investigation of penetration abilities of various oils into human hair fibers. J Cosmet Sci, 2005; 56 (5).
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36 | raw materials
In the world of butters Monika Żynda
Butters are besides oils very popular fats used in cosmetic formulations. They are produced in different ways. Some of them are obtained from seeds, others originate by the hydrogenation of oils, yet other ones contain in their compositions substances such as paraffin, waxes. Met the most often Undoubtedly the most commonly used in cosmetics is
Ucuuba is also a tree from the region of Amazonia. A mature tree can produce between 30 to 50 kg of seeds
shea butter, differently named from the French language:
per year. The seeds of ucuuba are rich in fat (60-70%), and
karité. Shea trees grow in Africa and their fruits resemble
70% of the fat is composed of triglyceride of myristic acid
small avocado fruits. Nuts found in fruits are an ingredient
which is an aromatic essential oil important to the cosmetic,
from which by suitable methods shea butter is obtained.
pharmaceutical and food industries. Ucuuba butter has
This butter nourishes the skin and forms a protective film
a high melting point(53oC) and saponification value (220
that prevents it from dehydrating. It protects the skin from
mg KOH/g) which exceeds the value of beef tallow and
unfavourable weather factors and UV aggression. It is also
makes ucuuba butter a raw material that could replace
used in cosmetics for dry and damaged hair.
animal tallow in the production of soaps. The replacement
Cacao butter is obtained from fruits’ seeds of the cacao
of animal tallow with the vegetable ucuuba butter solves
tree: Theaobroma cacao. It is solid at room temperature, but
the problem of product contamination from the use of
melts readily on contact with the skin. It prevents drying of the
animal tallow and even gives soaps more consistency and
skin and the development of wrinkles. It reduces degeneration
durability. Ucuuba butter is also a substitute for paraffin.
of skin cells and restores skin flexibility. It is used in creams,
Soaps and creams contain in their compositions this butter
balms, soaps, cosmetics against UV radiation.
show anti-inflammatory effect and have healing and antiseptic properties.
From different parts of the world Butters mentioned above come mainly from the continent of Africa. And what offer other parts of the world?
Other interesting butters from countries of South America are muru-muru, tucuma, bacuri. Fruits of bacuri tree have usually four oily seeds which dried
The treasury of interesting cosmetic components is the
contain resinous, dark-brown fat. Bacuri butter gives a golden
region of Amazonia. The vegetation of this area it is a
tones to the skin. It is absorbed a few minutes after it is applied
source of unique ingredients, among them butters.
and the skin becomes velvety to the touch. This butter also
Among trees of Amazonia caupuaçu is found. Its fruits
removes spots and reduces scarring. Muru-muru butter is
are large, heavy and very perfumed. They are known in
reach in olein, lauric and myristic fatty acids. Due to the oleic
the world due to cupuaçu chocolate produced from the
acid content it can provide extra emollient and moisturizing
paste which is extracted from its fatty almonds. In the
properties to the skin and hair. It can be recommended for
cosmetic world cupuaçu butter is valued. It presents very
products designed to improve softness and elasticity of dried
good emollient properties and it is well-spread on the skin.
and aged skin. Acids mentioned above appear also in tucuma
It provides high capacity of water absorption, over 200%
butter which is additionally the source of vitamin A, what
higher than lanolin for which is a vegetal substitute.
provides antioxidant and protective activities.
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37 One of the most popular butters used in cosmetics is mango butter
One of the most popular butters used in cosmetics is
the balance of the hydro-lipidic barrier and so regenerate
mango butter. Though mango trees can be found in many
the epidermis. The remaining part is oleic acid, mono-
countries like Brazil, Mexico and China the oil obtained
unsaturated which regulates cholesterol. Mentioned cotton
from its seeds is exported mainly from India. Mango butter
butter contains a significant proportion of vitamin E which
is a good emollient used in different skin care applications,
brings antioxidizing efficacy.
it is widely used in the production of soaps. It has a soft consistency allowing to easy blend it with other fats and oils. Kokum and mowrah butters come from India as well.
The other proposition of this type of butters is bagura butter. Bagura is not a plant universally known on the Polish cosmetic market. It comes from tropical Asia, and other
Kokum hailed for its emollient property, it is used as a
its names are tamanu or ati. For 50 years the scientific
natural moisturizer to keep skin supple and silky smooth.
research has reinforced the tribute paid to bagura tree by
It is effective for treatment for very dry, fissured skin. Mowrah
confirming interesting properties of the oil extracted from its
butter is high in oleic, palmitic, stearic, linoleic acid. It prevents
fruits’ seeds.
skin dryness and wrinkles. It is a hardening agent in high acid application, helps to form stable emulsion.
Bagura butter obtained in specific process of partial hydrogenation has a characteristic composition which includes acids: linoleic, oleic, palmitic, stearic, calophyllic
New solutions
(specific aromatic acid improving cells vitality), complex of
Butters are sometimes compact and consequently
lactones: calophyllolidyne and inophyllolidyne with antiseptic
difficult to introduce in cosmetic formulations. Their
and anti-inammatory properties, sterols. As a result of
penetration can also be difficult or limited. The solution
this particular composition the butter can contribute to: the
of above problems are butters developed in the specific
limitation of the transepidermal water loss, the protection
process of partial hydrogenation. They have a delicate
and restoration of the skin condition, the prevention of
texture, enable a good spreading on the skin, bring a
premature aging, the regeneration of epidermis cells.
pleasant sensorial feeling. The concept of this kind of butters considers their different kinds. An interesting proposition is obtained in the above way
Butters are used in different cosmetics: creams, balms, body butters, lipsticks, after shave products, hair care products. They can present a not big percent of final
cotton butter. It has an interesting composition in relation to
cosmetic, but the dosage of some of them can reach 90,
a good balance between saturated, mono-unsaturated and
and even 100%. In this last case, butter become a product
poly-unsaturated fatty acids. Approximately 50% present
used e.g. for massages in beauty salons or biological
saturated fatty acids, among which 20% it is palmitic acid
renovation centers.
which contributes to an excellent stability. Up to 40% present poly-unsaturated fatty acids, which help to maintain
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In the article were used materials of companies – suppliers of cosmetic ingredients.
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38 | raports, projects. plans
Chain stores strengthening position on the cosmetics market in Poland Patrycja Nalepa Senior Retail Analyst PMR
Between 2006 and 2010 more than 1,200 cosmetics stores disappeared off the Polish streets, replaced by nearly the same number of chain outlets, which means that around 2,500 traditional cosmetics shops were closed down in the period. According to our estimates, in 2010 sales of chains increased by 15% while independent retailers’ sales shrunk by around 20%. As a result, chains, which account for 30% of all cosmetics stores in Poland, generated 80% of segment turnover. Amidst unfriendly economic conditions and growing competition from modern chains, small stores have recently commenced to join together into networks, to have greater buying leverage and thus to be able to negotiate better terms and conditions for purchasing goods for resale,
9 068
8 945
8 361
8 099
7799
7539
7299
8 007
7 700
6 913
6 472
5 494
4 632
3 792
1 061
1 245
1 448
1 627
2 305
2 907
3 507
2006
2007
2008
2009
2010e
2011p
2012p
Chain outles
Independent outlets
Number of cosmetics shops and drugstores in Poland, independent and chain outlets, 2006-2012. e – estimate, f – forecast Source: PMR report “Retail market of cosmetics in Poland 2011. Market analysis and development forecasts for 2011–2013”
1/2011
to then offer their clients better prices. The year 2010 saw the establishment of such chains one after the other. Some were the initiative of cosmetics and chemicals wholesalers who, concerned with the declining number of traditional cosmetics stores, would like to somehow ensure they have a long-term market that they can supply in goods. In addition, wholesalers themselves are also consolidating; by taking over other wholesalers they are enlarging their area of business, and thus are also assuring themselves better positions in negotiations with manufacturers. Among networks established by traditional shops last year are: • Drogerie Polskie established by the distributor Blysk, • Drogerie Jasmin established by Polska Grupa Drogeryjna from Grupa Eko Holding upon the earlieracquired Drogerie Aster franchise chain and Bravo purchasing group (managed by the cosmetics distributor Adistor), • Drogerie Laboo established by Navo – main partner of Procter&Gamble on the traditional market, • Kosmeteria – Eksperci Urody established through the initiative of Brodr. Jorgensen, distributor of Gosh brand, which is highly focused on professional customer service, • Drogerie Sekret Urody established by the wholesalers Sonia of Rzeszow and T&T of Bydgoszcz; both members of Delko distribution group. In all, the abovementioned chains held approximately 600 outlets last year. As a consequence, the overall number of
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The aggressive expansion of Rossmann and other cosmetics chains coupled with the development of supermarket and discount chains throughout the country has led to the waning of traditional stores that are unable to compete with such strong players. In order to improve the odds of market survival, some independent retailers have began to join together into chains. In 2010 the market saw many such initiatives, one after the other.
stores that are part of a chain surged last year – according to our estimates increased by close to 680 outlets, while a year earlier the chain storecount grew by 180 shops. Based on plans and announcements made by the individual players, in 2011 the segment will grow by another 600 shops which in addition to being the result of growth of the market leaders will also be brought on by subsequent independent retailers joining franchise networks and establishing similar groups. Thus, we forecast that in 2011 turnover generated via chains will increase by another 15% while the entire cosmetics store segment will expand by 9%. In later years, cosmetics chains will continue to strengthen their market clout at the expense of independent retailers. According to our estimates, the percentage share of chain outlets in total storecount will grow from the present-day 30% to 48% in 2012. Feeling threatened on part of large chains, small retailers may soon not have a choice but to join one of
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the franchise chains. The greater buying power of such organisations, joint marketing campaigns, well planned sales, consistent visual identity and training for owners and personnel are the advantages of chain membership; these may prove indispensible for surviving on the cosmetics market. Though, according to some distributors, owners of individual stores are not always keen to integrate, as despite the many benefits they fear loss of independence. On the other hand, the changes will be demanded by the clients themselves who will increasingly prefer to shop in a recognisable branded store operating under a common banner, with a unique market persona, exceptional offering or customer service among other outlets. For more information about the Polish cosmetics market see PMR’s newest report “Retail market of cosmetics in Poland 2011. Market analysis and development forecasts for 2011–2013”.
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40 | packages
Packaging and teatment of packaging waste in the cosmetics industry Monika Blezień–Ruszaj Specialist in Environmental Protection; biotechnologist
In the cosmetics industry, packaging is a very important stage in the production process. It decides what our product will look like, whether it will attract the attention of potential customers and whether the products inside them will retain their properties, consistencies and usability during the time indicated on the packaging.
When selecting appropriate packaging, the cosmetics industry is often
a waste management plan know exactly which types of packaging
guided by customers’ preferences. Cosmetics manufacturing companies
become useless packaging waste after use.
often employ external companies or staff to give the packaging or at least the labels the right design, so that the cosmetics of a given company are recognisable and the consumer can easily find her chosen brand on the perfumery shelf or in the online shops run by distributors. The people responsible for the appearance of packaging are graduates
The cycle of production and dealing with packaging and packaging waste from cosmetic products. INGREDIENTS FOR PRODUCING COSMETICS
of Management and Marketing courses offering such subjects as materials science, packaging and packaging marketing. These courses produce industrial product packaging quality managers. During their studies the
FINISHED COSMETIC PRODUCT
learn the definition of packaging and its functions, discover the basic types of packaging and their classifications. They then use this knowledge to select and design the appropriate packaging for cosmetic products. The cosmetics industry has been expanding continually for several years, and new products are constantly being developed which must be
WASTE FORMED DURING PRODUCTION OF COSMETICS
nicely ‘dressed’, to make the cosmetic recognisable and the consumer reach for it rather than another product. Let us consider the natural environment and its protection when producing cosmetics and selecting packaging. In recent years,
CONSUMER WASTE FROM COSMETIC PRODUCT
attention has begun to be paid to ecological threats arising during the manufacturing and then disposal of packaging. It should be remembered that every cosmetics factory has contact with packaging not only during the final phase of production, but throughout the technological process.
DISPOSAL
STORAGE
The semi-finished products and substances required for production and analysis are delivered in packaging. Cosmetics plants which have
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ECONOMIC EXPLOITATION OF WASTE
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41
Along with the development of industry and fast-paced life style, the amount of packaging waste began to increase and become a threat to the environment. It is necessary to consider the processes which packaging form the ingredients used in cosmetics production , as well as the packaging left after the consumer uses the cosmetic product, should be subjected to. Let us think, then, about segregating as best we can the packaging waste left after the production stage. Semi-finished products, substances and ingredients for producing the finished cosmetic product, as well as reagents for tests carried out during the cosmetics production cycle are delivered in glass, plastic, metal (steel or aluminium) or sometimes wooden packaging (e.g. the pallets on which components are delivered). It can thus be seen that as early as the production stage the cosmetics industry uses large amounts of packaging which, once used, become packaging waste. Until recently, this type of packaging was dumped, and this type of waste disposal is not, of course, one of the most desirable. Thinking ecologically and economically, we realise that packaging waste must be processed. As we know, companies conduct selective collections of packaging waste and send these for recycling. At the moment, more and more of the packaging delivered to both factories and final customers is suitable for recycling, for processing or to be burnt as fuel.
Cosmetic production plants distributing packaged products Each of the companies distributing packaged products in this country, whether imported, in packaging purchased domestically or products packaged for their own use, has a duty to ensure that packaging waste and waste left over after usage can be recovered, and in particular recycled. The packaging of cosmetic products, semi-finished products or ingredients used in the production cycle should be designed in such a way that the used up packaging they leave behind can be subjected to the recommended recovery methods: • Material recycling – involves recycling a certain percentage of the mass of material used to make packaging; • Energy recycling – a process involving obtaining energy, and packaging subjected to this type of processing should have a net calorific value allowing optimal energy creation; • Organic recycling, in other words composting, is a technological process involving processing biodegradable packaging waste, conducted under appropriate conditions and using microorganisms (bacteria and fungus), leading to an organic product – compost or methane (when composting packaging waste (paper, wood, materials) forming. It should be remembered
Let us consider the natural environment and its protection when producing cosmetics and selecting packaging
that these must be biodegradable enough not to interfere with the composting process; • Biodegradation – during this process, the used packaging should be able to decompose chemically, physically, thermally and biologically in such a way that the final degradation of the compost obtained is transformed into carbon dioxide, biomass and water.
d oe w- wn lyodaadn i*.e pddof pv eo rbsr iaonni :a nwww.farmacom.com.pl a : www.farmacom.com.pl
1/2011
42 | packages Recycling – a technological process of secondary
packaging, are appraised positively from the point of view of reprocessing.
treatment of packaging waste (or selected materials from
Cellulose/paper plants are willing to accept scrap paper from packaging as
the waste) resulting in the formation of packaging or other
long as the paper or cardboard is not coated with paraffin or wax.
products. This concept also covers organic processing,
Glass packaging
but does not refer to energy production. Packaging which
The packaging material most often used in the cosmetics industry is
is to be recovered after use by material recycling should
glass. A whole range of perfume products as well as many creams are
be produced in such a way as to enable a defined per-
packed in this type of material. Glass, and then glass packaging is one
centage of the packaging materials to be processed, and
of the most ecological types. Waste products left by glass are usually
this material to be used to create market commodities in
sent to plants with which a company has signed a 15 01 07 waste code
accordance with applicable EU standards. The percentage
contract – these may be coloured or more or less tainted from the product
stipulated by these standards may vary depending on the
stored in them. Household waste from cosmetics in glass packaging
type of packaging material.
should be placed in the containers designed for them – the white containers. Disposal of glass packaging waste mainly involves recycling it.
Packaging waste formed during the cosmetic products manufacturing process, from the point of view of secondary processing
Glass is not a danger to the environment, it is at most a burden, as glass
Paper and cardboard packaging
ecologically and economically even up to 100%. Used glass is thus a
As we know, paper products not containing any other substances (np. PE), i.e. paper and cardboard
does not decay and therefore if not processed simply lies on a dump. Today’s technological progress means that packaging can be processed reusable material which can be recycled many times. Using broken glass in glassworks for the melting process reduces energy use, increases productivity and prolongs the lifetime of the furnaces. The amount of breakage added when producing new glass products can sometimes exceed 50% of their mass.
1/2010 1/2011
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As regards plastic packaging, the following are applied:
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Plastic packaging • Material (mechanical) recycling using the thermoplastic properties of the material. This type of processing usually applies to pure (homogenous) polymers or blends of these. • Chemical (raw material) recycling involves partial degradation of the plastic to low molecular weight compounds, or else complete depolymerisation (to initial compounds or derivatives of these). Examples of procedures with used plastic packaging: • polyethylene and polypropylene packaging e.g. bottles, canisters, barrels, crates, containers, bags and foils are processed into secondary raw materials with applications in many fields, mainly for the production of technical items. • foils and bottles may constitute secondary raw materials. In this country the possibilities for processing them are still limited. The waste products may be used in the production of polyester resins, polyurethanes and polyurethane foams, as well as fabrics and foils. Metal packaging Metal packaging, usually made from sheet metal (steel or aluminium), can be recycled. Waste from used packaging can be separated from other waste products using magnetic separators, then used in metalworks as scrap. Aluminium waste from used tins, once cleaned, becomes a fully valuable raw material for use in the manufacture of various aluminium products. Wood packaging Wooden pallets on which components for cosmetics production are delivered or batches of finished cosmetic products are shipped to wholesalers and distributors should be used up completely. Wooden packaging in the form of pallets can be exchanged or sent to a collection point – as far as is possible it is better to use up pallets than cut down more trees to make new wooden packaging. Packaging and the waste products formed from it should be disposed of or as far as possible recycled. Only packaging waste which we can no longer re-use should end up in the scrap yard. The secondary materials formed from packaging waste in cosmetics factories are suitable for reprocessing and making into new products. Treatment of used packaging: • SEGREGATION • RECYCLING • COMPOSTING • STORAGE Let us remember about the natural environment for future generations – and by segregating, recycling or composting the packaging and packaging waste formed during the production cycle and lifetime of the cosmetic products we are saving time, the environment and money.
C + N Polska Sp. z o.o.
ul. Wojska Polskiego 6, 39-300 Mielec, tel. +48 (17) 773 80 01, fax +48 (17) 773 80 09 / 14, cplusn@cnpolska.pl d o w n l o a d *. p d f v e r s i o n :
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44 | packages
The marketing role of packaging Urszula Bandoch Cezar S.A. A Chesapeake Company
1/2011
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An advertisement which lasts as long as the product is available on the shelves, which reaches the largest group of customers and whose costs are low – a marketing phenomenon? No. This is packaging – the advertising medium with the longest lasting, least expensive and widest ranging effect.
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45 45
Packaging serves not only to protect the product against external factors – this is a stereotype which has long since been disproven. Packaging has come to be known as the silent seller. High class aesthetic values of packaging is a requirement of a successful marketing role as the outer layer of packaging is associated with product quality. Graphic elements, finery added to boxes and interesting material forms create the intended effect of luxury, prestige and a high product standard. Packaging constitutes a means of communication between the manufacturer and the customer through visual symbols which instil in the customer a desire to possess. The most important visual markers which convey information are the colour, shape and size of the packaging. The colour scheme of individual packaging has a very powerful effect on the purchaser’s perception. A packaging designer must display knowledge of how colours affect the mind of the consumer, and also take into consideration highly
Importer of cosmetic packaging Packaging for white and color cosmetics Various materials Any possibility of decorations and ornaments We have products on sale of warehouse and imported to the individual order
individual social factors and stereotypes deeply rooted in the consumer’s consciousness, which influence the way colours are perceived, e.g. pink is associated with sweet, sugary smells. In the case of cosmetic care products, the most commonly seen colours on packaging are light blue and white, as colours associated with cleanliness and freshness, and which additionally give the impression that a product is optically larger. These are not, of course, uniform and the colour always includes a graphic motif reminiscent of a smell or feeling of relaxation, e.g. green – a hint of forest, pink – the smell of roses, violet – lavender, blue – a gentle, soothing sea breeze. It is worth pointing out that red increases interest and encourages action, while navy, Bordeaux, black, silver and gold indicate the luxurious nature of the product. These colours give an impression of prestige, and what woman can resist feeling special when buying a product which looks
MEPING W.Seklecki i M.Sworzyński Sp.j.
like a jewel? Remember that the woman is buying the hope
mobile. 609 44 75 39 tel./fax 22 855 75 99 ul. K. Jeżewskiego 3a/27 02-796 Warszawa e-mail: maciej@meping.pl
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46 | packages of being attractive, and luxurious packaging shows the exceptional properties of the product contained within, thus giving hope that the consumer’s expectations will be met. Men are less regarding as regards the graphics on packaging – they like a simple form of communication without unnecessary decorations, and the most popular colours of men’s cosmetics packaging are navy, graphite and silver. Experts on colour use propose a few rules: • Colours should act on the senses – stimulate them, bring to mind an aroma, a sense of freshness, the desire to own the product • A colour must be memorable – be associable with a given brand • A colour must look good under in-store lighting • The materials from which the packaging is made affect the colour, e.g. the same red looks different on a white background than on laminate • The colours of the packaging must be compatible with the colour scheme of the product The shape of the packaging is a significant marketing element. Using an analysis of attractiveness from the customer’s point of view we may achieve the desired effect of communication with the consumer.
Packaging constitutes a means of communication between the manufacturer and the customer through visual symbols which instil in the customer a desire to possess.
The designer of special forms should bear in mind several important elements contributing towards successful communication – firstly the package should be appropriate for the packing machinery so that no unwanted cracks or dents appear during the packing process, and the functionality of the packaging is also essential, as is it being easy to hold and carry – the correct basis weight and supporting structure should guarantee the stability of the products inside. Do not forget about ease of storing the product – too fancy a shape may make the packaging difficult to fit on a shop’s shelf, and it may take up too much space. An untypical shape is, however, a definite factor in attracting attention, which would seem to be vital when launching a new product or rebranding an existing one, providing of course that all of the above factors are retained. The size of packaging is inseparably connected with its shape. Cosmetic products are offered in a variety of sizes from miniatures of perfume or travel-sized miniatures, all the way up to family-sized cosmetics such as bubble bath or body lotions which come in large packaging. A determining factor in the size of packaging is the frequency of use of a given cosmetic, as well as the number of individual applications. Additionally, cosmetics with a short usable lifetime come in smaller volumes. It is also worth remembering promotional miniatures attached to products to increase sales. A product’s packaging as a tool for marketing action takes on particular significance in the case of cosmetic products. Packaging is the cheapest tool for promoting and creating a brand, as well as the most suggestive. In the hands of experts it becomes a work of art which speaks to customers through its colour, shape and size, subconsciously influencing the emotions of the purchaser and stimulating the desire to own. Packaging is one of the elements of a marketing instrument affecting the market, with the interest of this activity focused on the end customer, and in particular her needs, desires and demands. Establishing and defining these desires must lead to satisfaction of the buyer’s needs and achievement of her total satisfaction.
1/2011
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Azelis – dystrybutor surowców,
dodatków i produktów chemicznych Dział kosmetyczny Gotalene – polietyleny białe i kolorowe do peelingów ciała i twarzy: Du Pont’a Surowce aktywne: GFN/SELCO Surowce aktywne i emulgatory zgodne z ECOCERT: Lucas Meyer Estry kwasów tłuszczowych: Berg+Schmidt Parafina ciekła: Petrocanada
Silikony: BlueStar Nieorganiczne filtry UV „coated pigments”: Miyoshi Kasei Proteiny jedwabne: Synthron Karbomery Oleje i masła kosmetyczne: Biochemica Surowce firmy: HallStar
Azelis Poland Sp. Z.o.o. ul. Warszawska 39/41, 61-028 Poznań T +48 61 874 70 16 · F +48 61 874 70 24 M +48 608 031 030
marcin.roszyk@azelis.pl personalcare@azelis.com www.azelis.com
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