Color Bounce Vivid Style Spectrum
THE BEAUTY ISSUE
Tina Lutz
Style and Integrity
Clodagh Life-Enhancing Minimalism Color is Perspective Design Theorist Friederike Tebbe Simple Beauty Bare Masculinity Destination Seoul
www.4SEEmagazin.com
SPRING/SUMMER 2018 - THE BEAUTY ISSUE - 8
danish design by . made by
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TREND REPORT – Global trends from Berlin, New York and Tokyo
12 14 16 22
DESTINATION – Seoul: behind the buzz with HyeIn Jeon OPINION – Color is perspective by Friederike Tebbe INTERVIEWS – Maxwell, Tina Lutz, Clodagh
LABEL PROFILER – Einstoffen: swiss swish, Hoffmann: simplicity is sophistication
24 30 38 44 48 52 60 70
DARK MATTER – Extravagant, edgy, surreal AROUND THE CORNER – Feeling home in a foreign place COLOR BOUNCE – Vivid style spectrum SPRING AFFAIR – Beauty awakens BRILLIANCE IN A BOTTLE – Beauty is our natural instinct SIMPLE BEAUTY – Bare masculinity LET ME BE – Shine for the details 4SEE EYEWEAR ARCHIVE VOLUME VIII
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o you speak English? Yes we do. Welcome to our first ever all-English issue of 4SEE Magazine. We are proud to present 4SEE now to a global community of eyewear connoisseurs.
This season, 4SEE brings out the paint buckets for our editorial ‘Color Bounce’ (page 38) and captures spring time’s full color palette by talking with color expert Friederike Tebbe about the beauty of color on page 14. Equally colorful, even without any eyewear, ‘Brilliance in a Bottle’ (page 48) shows the variety of shape, color and design that contemporary beauty products have to offer. Staying with the theme of design, 4SEE interviewed two exceptional woman who know a thing or two about beauty: Tina Lutz who has been at the forefront of fashion design for over three decades (page 18) and acclaimed interior designer Clodagh masters a holistic approach to design (page 20). 4SEE’s fashion editorials highlight the bare minimalism of masculinity (page 52), shed light on edgy ‘Dark Matter’ (page 24) and make you feel at home in ‘Around the Corner’ (page 30). I hope you enjoy our view on the newest eyewear fashion and trends taking off for spring. Don’t forget to visit us online for the latest from 4SEE.
All the best, Bert Spangemacher, Editor-in-Chief 4SEE - A BIANNUAL EYEWEAR FASHION, ART & CULTURE MAGAZINE 4SEE is the new definitive source of eyewear, presented through the lens of fashion, art & culture, providing highly visual and valuable content and serving as the ultimate consumer resource, showcasing trends and must-have frames. www.4SEEmagazin.com.
@SALTOPTIC S
CONTENTS
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Issue 8 Spring/Summer 2018 CONTRIBUTORS EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
BERT SPANGEMACHER
PRODUCTION DIRECTOR SUMI HASEBE
MANAGING EDITOR JUSTIN ROSS
ART DIRECTOR
JOHANNES MÜLLER
PHOTOGRAPHERS
BERT SPANGEMACHER, KAZ ARAHAMA, MARC BAPTISTE, CAN DAGARSLANI, ANDREAS WALDSCHUETZ, ALEXANDER ZUBER
EDITORS
JUSTIN ROSS, CHRISTINE TOMAS, MIO HAYASHI, TOMIO NAGAOKA, FRIEDERIKE TEBBE, HYEIN JEON, CHARLOTTE KRAUSS, MAIKE ORLIKOWSKI
PUBLISHER
MediaWelt Services GmbH Alte Kölner Str. 33 40885 Ratingen - Germany +49 2102 1678 0
PRINTER
druck.pl Logistics and print centre ul. Kwidzynska 6E 51-416 Wroclaw, Poland
P24 DARK MATTER
Models ANYA LESUN @ Q Models, ALEX CUNNINGHAM, JOHNNY, Photo Assistant RODRIGO MARTINEZ, Special thanks to SPLASHLIGHT STUDIOS
P44 SPRING AFFAIR
Model OLGA CERPITA @ LOUISA Models
P52 SIMPLE BEAUTY
4SEE raw studios.
Model DAAN @ FAZE Models, Photo Assistant TOM NTI
redaktion@4SEEmagazin.de sales@4SEEmagazin.de www.4SEEmagazin.com
Models VERONIKA @ izaio management, SIENNA @ core management, 1st Assistant LUKAS ROTTER, 2nd Assistant KAMIL RUTKOWSKI, Special thanks to YVES RICHTER @ Phase One
Wilhelm-von-Siemens-Str. 12-14 12277 Berlin, Germany +49 30 8101 5227
PRESIDENT
JÖRG SPANGEMACHER
ISSN 2365-5054
P60 LET ME BE
SPECIAL THANKS
Heike Bergfeld, Petros Sioutis @ MediaWelt GmbH
Friederike Tebbe is a color theorist and designer who works as a consultant for architecture and design projects. She has taught courses on color and design for the University of Arts (UdK) in Berlin and regularly gives workshops and lectures on the topic. She is the author of multiples books of photography and writing on the subject of color and perception in the world around us. Her most recent book, Hear Green, Think Yellow: Understanding Color was published in 2017 by Jovis Verlag.
Kaz Arahama studied English Literature at Kanagawa University. As his study with international relations expanded in the US, he became interested in photography, which led him to study further at FIT to pursue a career in visual creativity with the camera. He has since become an established still life photographer, starting out in New York and continuing now in Tokyo. His sensitivity to objects is flawlessly composed through the lens graphically and narratively in order to portray the life and story of his subjects and he expresses their sensual emotion and organic elements with abundant analog and digital techniques.
4SEE COVER Photography MARC BAPTISTE
SUNGLASSES BY
GREY ANT URLIKE TOP BY CHENG HUAI-CHUANG, HAT BY J.R MALPERE
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4SEE Eyewear Trend Report Spring/Summer 2018
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ith a passion for unique, one-of-a-kind vintage eyewear, Abdullah Demir, who runs the Brillenschatz shop has been collecting from all corners of the world, and showcasing them at his shop since 2011. “About 15 years ago, I saw an eyewear dealer who was selling the original vintage glasses in an antique market, and I was instantly in love with the colors, shapes and quality.” He noticed that the pieces were made to be used by customers for a long time with a more sustainable approach. “My passion, original vintage glasses are like a good old wine. Due to the long storage time, the material of the glasses gets a rest, which results in a charming patina, which we can enjoy today.” Brillenschatz stocks carefully selected piec-
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Text MIO HAYASHI
BRILLENSCHATZ, BERLIN
es from the ‘70s, ‘80s and ‘90s, in his shop on Potsdamer Strasse that features a retro-inspired interior. With celebrity clients including Elton John, Jean Paul Gaultier and Wolfgang Joop, Abdullah describes his customers as individuals and collectors of all ages who simply appreciate the uniqueness of original vintage glasses. Asked about what is trending for the season, timeless aviators and the round shapes are particularly popular, adding that extraordinary eyewear shapes are also in demand at the moment. As for other favorite designers, they include Jean Paul Gaultier and Matsuda for their steampunk and precision industrial design, as well as Alain Mikli and Casanova for their crazy shapes and fierce colors. Brillenschatz
Potsdamer Strasse 79 10785 Berlin +49 30 6165 3702 www.brillenschatz.de
ANTHONY AIDEN OPTICIANS, NEW YORK signs and playful colors, regardless of what the trends may be: “The only thing I can say is the best shape and color is ‘what’s interesting’. Always keep it interesting.” Asked about other brands, he comments that Jacques Marie Mage is his new favorite. “The quality is beyond any other brand out there. You feel quality when you hold them in your hands. They wear magnificently on the face and are just the right amount of unique styling and bad boy rock and roll for anyone.”
pened in 1989 on the iconic St. Mark’s Place in the East Village in New York, Anthony Aiden Opticians was one of the first high-end boutiques in the area, and has been presenting the most fashion-forward eyewear with personalized services to offer the perfect pair for each customer. Aside from his personal history in the area (his grandfather had a barber shop nearby in the 1920s), he chose this area for its music and art scene. “It was always different from other neighborhoods in Manhattan. Any night of the week at 3am you can walk down St. Mark’s Place and it felt like Times Square.” He prides himself in the relationships he has developed with his clients over the past 29 years, although with the gentrification of the area in the recent years, the starving artists and musicians as well as the original Ukrainian immigrants are no longer seen, and old tenements are being replaced by new condominium doorman buildings. His focus in the eyewear selection is artful de-
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ecora is derived from the word “deconstruction”, a nod to their aspiration to move away from the current practice of the eyewear retail industry in Japan and to propose a new style of its own. This philosophy is also reflected in the design of the Tokyo shop, which opened in 2007. Only a small part of the product selection can be seen from the outside, and it was done purposely to focus on the communication with clients in choosing an ideal pair. The clientele base consists of a wide range, from businessmen in the area to tourists visiting the city, due to its location just in front of the Tokyo station. “What they have in common is that they all look for quality pairs that can be used for a long time, or something rare and unique that cannot be found elsewhere”, comments Hiroki Urushibata, Managing Director of
Photo: courtesy of Brillenschatz
Anthony Aiden Opticians 42 St. Mark’s Place New York, NY 10003 +1 212 533 1577 www.anthonyaidenopticians.com Photo: courtesy of Anthony Aiden Opticians
DECORA, TOKYO the brand. Asked about the bestsellers, he comments that the round and the “Boston” shapes in classical metal and combination frames have been popular regardless of the brand. Specifically, Lindberg has performed very well for its design, comfort and functionality. For this season, Decora has created limited edition matte black frames in collaboration with some brands, and they are expected to be an addition to the classic metal variety. Additionally, the shift of the nose pad material from plastic to titanium is a predominant trend at the moment. As for other brands, Yellows Plus is one to watch, so are Jacques Marie Mage and Ahlem that are not widely available yet in Japan. Decora
Shinmaru Building 2F 1-5-1 Marunouchi Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo 100-6502 +81 3 3211 3201 www.glasses-co.jp/decora
Photo: courtesy of Decora
EYEWEAR TREND REPORT - 11
Destination Seoul x HyeIn Jeon
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Photography & Text HYEIN JEON
When people think of Seoul, some people might only think of it as a capital of the K-POP country, but these days Seoul is full of fashion and beauty, 24-hour shops, and very tech savvy with its old and new buildings spreading out across the city with beautiful mountains as their backdrop.
Or.Er. Archive 18, Seongsu 1(il)-ga 1(il)-dong, Seongdong-gu, Seoul Or.Er. Archive is a hidden gem in the upper east of Seoul. On the way, you can see the Seoul Forest as well as the Han River. The building has three stories; the first floor is a café, the second floor holds seminars and the third floor is the Or.Er Archive. I still remember the day when I first walked into this store—it was simply magical. Or.Er Archive kind of re-
minds me of my grandmother’s old house with wooden floors, walls and low ceilings that make me feel nostalgic. The space is quiet and delicate, full of vintage ceramics and silverware collected from all over the world, one of a kind ceiling glass lamps, crystals and little objects that captivate and delight. I always find it hard to walk out of the store without purchasing at least a little something special.
If you visit Seoul, you might find yourself carrying shopping bags full of beauty products and fashionable (and cheap) clothes, or go hiking in the middle of the city to see the full view of Seoul with the river flowing through it and skyscrapers rising to the sky. Maybe you might go drinking with friends “Korean style” and stay out until 6 A.M. for a bowl of hot soup together to soothe your hangover before retiring to a famous Korean Spa where you can eat, sleep, get a massage or even play video games. Anything is possible in Seoul at all times of day, but I’m happy to give you a look at some of my favorite spots in the city for an insider’s perspective on a city that is constantly changing and evolving.
D Project Space: 구슬모아 당구장 B3, 85, Dokseodang-ro, Yongsan-gu, Seoul, Korea Seoul is attracting many international art collectors and galleries to cater to its rising crowd of young artists. D Project Space is a perfect place to find cool young creators’ interdisciplinary works. It’s located in Han-Nam, close to the D Museum with many hip restaurants and cafés nearby. You can have coffee or drinks at D project Space while looking at the cool exhibitions or enjoy indie music gigs there as well. As an illustrator/artist myself it is important for me to have these spaces that encourage young artists to work freely and innovatively. D Project Space is special for me because it creates a platform to connect new artists with an extensive new audience. When I am in Han-Nam area, I come here to look at the exhibitions and talk with my friends over coffee or drinks.
Gentle Monster Sinsa Flagship Store 23, Apgujeong-ro 10, Gangnam-gu, Seoul, Korea
Wolf Social Club 158 Hannam-daero, Hannam-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul, Korea Wolf Social Club is a small cozy café with good music and for a good cause. You can find feminist posters and books all around the café, which also holds multiple lectures and seminars on feminism. The illustrations and logos used by this café are quite brilliant as well. This is my go-to spot when I am feeling down or want to spend time by myself while eating satisfying meals, coffee and pies. The atmosphere is welcoming and the music selection is perfect for your soul. I always try to remember Wolf Social Club’s motto “More Dignity, Less Bullshit” and live it in my own life. It is also very comforting to find fellow feminists in the café.
12 - DESTINATION SEOUL
In the heart of Seoul, Sinsa has long been a hotspot for fashionistas, models and designers. I love going to Gentle Monster because of their unique approach to design and layout; they are famous for having a different structure, theme and aesthetics in every location. They have two flagship stores across from each other in the Sinsa area: Sinsa Flagship Store and Sinsa Parallel. The Sinsa Flagship store has five stories, and each floor has a different story to follow, creating various different moods through the over-the-top design elements that have to be seen to be believed. Different types of glasses and sunglasses are on view and the place resembles a fine art gallery with contemporary art pieces even more than a store. Sinsa Parallel has more of a refined, quiet touch compared to Sinsa Flagship’s kitsch feel. Whenever I visit the Gentle Monster stores I take my time and try out as many sunglasses and glasses as possible but cannot quite decide on what to buy since I love every pair! Their uniquely shaped and kitschy sunglasses are a particular favorite of mine.
HyeIn Jeon in ACCRUE
About HyeIn Jeon HyeIn Jeon is an illustrator & embroiderer based in NYC and South Korea. She lived in South Korea, China and Hong Kong before moving to New York and graduating from the School of Visual Arts with a BFA in illustration. Mainly working with embroidery, Jeon illustrates her favorite movies with colorful thread and fabrics. You can find her work on her website (hyeinjeon. com), Tumblr (hyeinjeon.tumblr.com) or Instagram (@hyeiniillo).
DESTINATION SEOUL - 13
Imagine that You are Seeing Things for the First Time
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Photography & Text Friederike Tebbe
There is no doubt that color is an integral part of beauty; we all have deep-seated color preferences that influence our affinity for objects and our emotions as well. For a new opinion section in 4SEE, we reached out to Friederike Tebbe, an expert in color theory and a color consultant for noted architecture projects, to ask her about her philosophy when it comes to perceiving color in the world around us.
“It is not what we observe that is critical. It is what we see.”
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ur world is a colorful world. Colors create order, presentation and orientation. Almost all of us have a favorite color, and another color that we cannot stand. And yet we don’t really take color seriously and thus color is often the last aspect to be considered in design processes. We express lively and definite preferences, preconceptions and reservations. And yet we generally don’t know where they come from, or the reason; it is more a case of “gut feeling”. Like smell and taste, color strongly influences our emotions. And yet, as a medium that constantly changes, it is difficult to grasp. Close examination is the most important precondition for confident understanding of color. But how does this process—of seeing, recognizing, understanding, and judging—function? Amid the sea of colors that surround us every day, which are seemingly so random and diverse, jumbled-together and confusing, alluring and incomprehensible, how can we create an overview? How can we refine our awareness of color, and cultivate our ability to discriminate?
Just as you can look at an object differently, it is also possible to observe the act of seeing. Self-observation quickly reveals how limited everyday seeing is. Do you see wide or long? Do you see ahead or behind? Do you see better standing up or sitting down? How well can you hear while you see? By making a close examination and relying upon our observations, we can gain a great deal of experience of color and its context. Observe what you see, and also how you see and what you believe you are seeing. Create a kind of “album” of impressions and insights. Take photographs, take cuttings, use a brush—or, if you don’t have the time, just look around you attentively. Try to look at things without attaching meaning and value: this is, in itself, more difficult than one might initially think, and requires a certain distance. But once you do it, it changes the way you look at things. So, you must simply change your perspective. Look at your environment from above, or with the eyes of an extraterrestrial. Imagine that you are seeing things for the first time.
Friederike Tebbe, Designer, Photographer, and Director of Studio Farbarchiv in Berlin (Farbarchiv.de)
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OPINION - FRIEDERIKE TEBBE - 15
Brooklyn’s Savior of Soul Music
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Photography MARC BAPTISTE Interview CHRISTINE TOMAS
Brooklyn born and of Haitian-Puerto Rican descent, self-taught musician Maxwell began composing music at 17. He started performing the New York City club scene a year later, only to see his career take off at warp speed, signing with Columbia Records in 1994, then dropping his legendary debut album Maxwell’s Urban Hang Suite two years later. The album put Maxwell on the map, earning praise from critics who lauded it for its fresh take on 70’s-inspired R&B—dubbed “neo soul”—an effort which helped to revive the entire genre. Heralded as the “savior of soul music,” the singer, songwriter, record producer, and actor has captivated music lovers for over two decades. He has released an additional 4 studio albums and is the recipient of 3 Grammy awards, 2 NAACP Image Awards, and 6 Soul Train Music Awards. On the heels of his photo shoot with fellow Brooklynite Marc Baptiste, 4SEE takes you behind the scenes with Maxwell.
Favorite person or people at the moment? My favorite people are my friends and family; those who know me and have been there to remind me not to forget who I was meant to be. What’s the most memorable thing that’s happened at one of your concerts? I split my pants on stage and had to walk out backwards while facing the crowd for a quick change. Another time, I spilled tea all over me in Zurich just before the curtain came up for the first song. Very funny, but hey! I work with it. Tell me about a cause that’s important to you. Education and healthcare for all, especially women all over the world, but especially in Haiti and Puerto Rico.
Why should others think about supporting that cause, and how can they help? When you have knowledge—and I don’t mean gossip or Google—I mean knowledge of books that create imagination, then you have the keys to the future of your own creativity. What are you listening to right now? I’m listening to “NIGHT,” the last installment of the trilogy. And funny enough, to the demos that got me signed when I was 19! Last question: Tell me something about Marc Baptiste that only you would know. If you know Marc, you know he is kind. The subjects who have been shot by him love him. He is loyal and he will help you fix anything you might have messed up while shooting with him.
About Marc Baptiste Haitian-American Marc Baptiste brings a unique flair, sensuality and cinematic beauty to his images, making him one of the most in-demand photographers in Hollywood, fashion, and the music industry. Marc’s client list is a “who’s who” of A-listers, creatives and legends like Barack Obama, Pharrell Williams, Beyoncé, Yoko Ono, and Maxwell—a repeat subject of Marc. He has released 3 books celebrating the female form: Beautiful—Nudes by Marc Baptiste; Intimate; and Innocent. His love for Haiti is evident in his work and in his support of numerous Haitian charities, like Cine’ Institute and NOAH NY, a not-for-profit organization. Since 2012, Marc has traveled with NOAH NY to support their medical mission, which provides free medical care to thousands in Fort-Liberté, Haiti. Following the devastating 2010 earthquake, Marc partnered with Donna Karan’s Urban Zen on the “Hope, Help & Relief Haiti” initiative.
Thinking back on the artist you were when you first started, to the success of Urban Hang Suite, to blackSUMMERS’ night… where are you now? What has changed? What’s stayed the same? What’s next? I’m coming back home. I feel my journey has led me from the roots of my first opportunity and now in the ever-changing playing field of the music business. It’s almost a time to reflect and create from past, present and future. You’re known to pride yourself in taking your time. You once told Rolling Stone, “People do too much. Fame is a very precarious thing. I better really live something and write something.” That’s a great philosophy that’s refreshingly counter to today’s growing culture of impatience and instant gratification. What got you to this point? I look at artists like Sade and I can see the weight of her wisdom. I also—and to be brutally honest—suffer from creative anxiety. With so much out there, it’s hard to feel like you will make an impact, but I always felt that way and probably always will. I will not stop being creative, but my world experience is in God’s hands. Let’s talk favorites: favorite thing about NY? NYC is fast. You can’t sleep on time and on opportunity. It’s where all the world walked in to first know America. Favorite things to wear? I love being in jeans, t-shirt and jacket. It’s my go to. But a nice suit never hurts!
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INTERVIEW - MAXWELL - 17
Tina Lutz: Style and Integrity
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Photography BERT SPANGEMACHER Interview JUSTIN ROSS Hair and Makeup CAT VON P
A constant innovator with her own highly refined sense of style, noted fashion designer Tina Lutz has been at the very forefront of fashion for the past three decades, not only creating iconic styles for everyone from Issey Miyake to Calvin Klein but also launching her own very successful brand Lutz & Patmos in New York. Moving back to Germany in 2016, Tina Lutz found new opportunities to carry on her mission of creating timeless designs in a responsible way: reviving traditional handcrafts and giving back to worthy causes at the same time. 4SEE asked Tina to visit our new studio space in Berlin to discuss her new venture in handbags, her ethical design philosophy, and the challenges and rewards of responsibly crafting luxury items. Tina Lutz’s elegantly classic and minimalist avant-garde mix was at the core of her first brand Lutz & Patmos, which she started in New York in the late nineties along with Marcia Patmos. As the brand cemented her status as a talented designer and fashion maven, Tina decided to use her influence in the design world to spearhead a movement towards honest and ethical fashion that continues today. The first steps toward this goal began at Lutz & Patmos with the inspired idea to look outside the fashion world for design collaborations, including with many of her close friends and idols like Jane Birkin, Sofia Coppola, Kirsten Dunst, Christy Turlington, and many more. “I collaborated with artists and actors, architects, singers, directors, and even with Desmond Tutu, the archbishop and Nobel Peace Prize laureate. It was always people that I really admired, and we would say to them, you can design a sweater, your dream sweater, we make it, and then we pick a charity that those proceeds go to.” It was an unusual move at the time but it was also an ingenious step that broadened the appeal of the brand while also enabling Tina to give back a portion of the profits from these specially designed garments to respected charities chosen together with the highprofile partners. But this is just one aspect of her holistic view (which she calls her three pillars) on how to encourage integrity in the luxury fashion world through ethical and responsible manufacturing practices. “My first pillar is to produce responsibly. You know where you produce and how things are made, you know the people behind them and that people are being treated fairly. I like to work with artisans, to support arts and craft, because they are sort of dying away and a lot of people are struggling to keep certain artisanships alive. That is my second pillar, working with artisans. My third pillar is altruism, I feel it is really important to give back. We are so privileged working in the business we are in. It’s important to help people who aren’t as privileged.” In 2011, Tina Lutz separated from her business partner at Lutz & Patmos and began consulting work for fashion and knitwear companies. This freed up more time for her to spend with her family and to travel back to Germany more regularly to visit with her aging parents. In 2016, with her parent’s health a growing concern, she and her family made the decision to try out living in Germany for a year. One year turned into two and has now become three as she and her husband and their young son find that Berlin is growing on them. Moving back to Germany was a big change for her and her family, but they approached it with enthusiasm and a spirit of adventure:
ØRGREEN SHIMMER
Tina Lutz is back doing what she loves—designing beautiful things—this time applying her expertise to luxury handbags with a new company under a new name: Lutz Morris. In 2017, Lutz Morris debuted in a world tour with a number of “salons” in various cities in Europe and North America. The reaction to her bag designs, inspired by and developed with the same concept as the cigar box frame, was phenomenal and she started selling the first versions right away. Now, Lutz Morris is officially just a year old but already a success, available online (www.lutzmorris.com) and just finishing up their first season with showrooms in London, Paris, and New York. Lutz Morris carries on Tina’s missions to design and create, working with local artisans to revive their handcraft work and support communities by sourcing responsibly. Defining responsible and ethical fashion means being heavily involved in the process and keeping everything local. “The pebbled leather, which makes up about 80% of the collection is tanned 30 minutes from the factory. The frames are another hour away. And there are some bags that have a beautiful, heavy brass chain, everything hand-soldered, which is made in the black forest. And the packaging is made in the same town where the bags are being made. So, everything is sourced as close as possible and made as responsibly as possible.” At the end of the day, everyone can feel good about what Tina Lutz is doing as she not only helps revive local economies through her partnerships with artisans but she also gives back a percentage of the profits to a worthy cause, reducing maternal mortality worldwide through the charity efforts at her longtime friend Christy Turlington’s charity Every Mother Counts. Tina Lutz is proving that there is a way to design and create responsibly, and that is truly a beautiful thing.
“My husband and son said to me, let’s do an adventure year in Germany. My son was 9, about to be 10, and we said let’s just stay a year and I can be there for my parents. Berlin was the only city in consideration, we all wanted to be here. That Christmas, our first in Berlin, my husband gave me a leather box, like an old cigar box, and I fell in love with that box. I don’t know exactly how it all came together, but I started looking up the name of the manufacturer. I told him ‘I love what you do, I have so many ideas’, and he asked if I wanted to come to visit. I started making some samples and prototypes and suddenly I had a new company again.”
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INTERVIEW - TINA LUTZ - 19
Life-Enhancing Minimalism
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Interview TOMIO NAGAOKA Photography ERIC LAIGNEL
In the complex world of eyewear, the most beautiful designs are often the most simple, seamlessly integrated with our own sense of identity to enhance our wellbeing while enhancing our sense of style. The fundamentals of good quality design are universal attributes and what better place to learn about them than from one of the top design firms in the world: Clodagh Designs. Acclaimed designer Clodagh has been redefining the world we live in, from private sanctuaries to aspirational spaces like luxury hotels and spas, through her studied application of interior design strategies that blend her own brand of “Life-Enhancing Minimalism™” with a wide range of influences from Feng Shui to chomotherapy. Her innovative approach to interior design includes an award-winning portfolio that spans projects in more than 30 countries. Since the beginning, Clodagh has been inspired by the environment, championing eco-conscious projects around the world. Today, Clodagh’s designs can be found across a broad range of projects from million-square-foot hotels, residential buildings, international spas, private residences, restaurants, retail stores and showrooms to women’s apparel and cosmetic packaging, branding, furniture, and even on private jets and luxury yachts. What she has learned from her many years of designing spaces is that design is not just about design but about “creating experiences that people can enjoy”. Clodagh takes a holistic approach to design with the ultimate goal of supporting and enhancing wellbeing through her interpretation of the spaces around us. Her third book called Life-Enhancing Design on the subject of designing for wellbeing will be published later this year. She tells 4SEE about her storied career as a designer, her design philosophy, and the transformative power of designing environments for living well. What is your “core” design philosophy? Are there one or two very simple words to describe it that are unique to you and to no one else? Life-enhancing minimalism. Everything that you need, but nothing more than what you need. But everything that you need to feel well and happy. Because I believe in design for wellness. I design for wellness and make sure that homes support peoples’ lives. I like universal designs—you’re designing for babies and hundred-year-olds. It’s a whole-life process. As an interior designer, one of your hallmarks is that you are very particular about materials, and textures… Can you tell me why that is? That’s what I’m all about. Because nature is full of textures. Although I like shiny and hard things too, you need the counterpoint, I think. I think design is like composing music. There’s a theme that runs through, there are high notes and low notes. If it’s all one note, it’s boring. So the textures are incredibly important to me. Also, I’ve been working since 1986 with Feng Shui and biogeometry, biophilia, chromotherapy… I’m very careful how I weave these modalities into my work, and use experts to help me to do that. So that people really feel comfortable and safe when they’re in one of my spaces
20 - INTERVIEW - CLODAGH
So it’s not only about the beauty in design? Design is not about design. Design is about creating experiences that people can enjoy. How do you get that inspiration when you’re discussing a project with a client who may not know anything about interior design? Well, the client may not know anything about interior design, but everybody is a brand. Every person is a brand. For example, I have a saying that you can put the same ingredients down in front of 50 different chefs and you’ll get 50 different dishes. So we very often use words to write a narrative before we put lines to paper. We actually interview the client, and ask them very firm questions. That interview is extremely important because that’s what I consider the branding process. Design involves a huge amount of observation, psychology, and watching how people move through space. Your sort of approach applies to any kind of interior design… It does, and now we also do consulting on gardens and art, as well. I very often sit in a café and just watch people. We’re doing a big hotel and restaurant in the Cayman Islands, and yesterday the team went out, and we had a drink, and just watched how the chef and restaurant that
we thought was the closest to what we might be doing prepared the food — how they styled it before they presented it. Because you really have to think of the “back-of-house” and everything. It’s not just “front-of-house”. So we design, in a sense, from the inside out, as well as from the outside in. I think a lot of design is from the outside in, we’re from the inside out. I’ve witnessed that many interior designers’ work looks obsolete or stale after a number of years. Your work, on the other hand, becomes enriched as time passes. Why is that? You see, I don’t believe in trends, I believe in movements. My movement has always been toward simplicity, comfort, joy, wonderful art, wonderful food… and I’ve also been very influenced by Japan. Before I was ever there, people thought I was influenced by Japan. Perhaps I was Japanese in a past life… but you see the beautiful buildings in Japan, they don’t change, they’re just beautiful, that’s it! Even from architects like Tadao Ando, they don’t change, they’re just beautiful. There’s no need to constantly change, just go in the right direction. If design is honest and you’re really taking care of people, and taking care of what they need, it’s going to last forever. You started out as a fashion designer when you were a teen in Ireland, but at some point you changed your career from fashion design to interior design. How did that come about, and why? Well, I changed husbands, countries and careers, basically. I was a fashion designer—I had a very well-known company—but I didn’t have a good marriage! [Laughs] So I met a man, married him, and I wasn’t quite sure what I was going to do. I closed my business in Dublin, and he decided he wanted to live in Spain for a while. I didn’t speak Spanish, so I asked him if I could take care of the old house that we had bought on a really beautiful old square. I could deal with the architect and I was going to learn Spanish along the way, while he did his business. And I realized, when I was talking to the architect, that the architect was not really very clever about how people live—where a dining room should go in relation to a kitchen, and stuff like that. So I kept drawing over his drawings. The old house had been abandoned for a long time, and it was just very dusty and old—it was a beautiful old house. And the day the demolition happened… there were 4-meter shutters looking out over the old square. They were open, and the dust was everywhere. The sun came in the window and hit the dust, and made a beam of light. I looked at the beam of light, and it just occurred to me that “this is what I want to do, I want to design spaces. I want to create experiences.” So when my husband came home that evening, I said “Daniel, I have decided what I want to do.” That’s how it started. Now you’re one of the most celebrated interior designers, and possibly the busiest female designer in the world. So I imagine you’re involved in many projects, but what’s holding your focus right now? Can you tell me about them? Well, there are many of them [laughs]. We’re just finishing the interiors of 1,800 apartments in Jackson Park in Queens, in New York City. We’re working on a very large building in San Francisco, rentals and condos—it’s our sixth project for the same developer. They do very well with our projects, people line up for them. I’m working in Washington, and we’re doing a very big resort in Kaplankaya, Turkey. It’s about 60 acres. We’re working with the landscape, I think it’s 150 hotel rooms, and a massive spa. Also, we’re developing new licenses. We’ve got a wall covering collection coming out in late fall. We’ve got a faucet collection, which has just come out and we’re developing. We just signed up recently, spring last year, with Restoration Hardware, and we’re continuing with them. I think what makes our design a little different is the amount of research we do. We’ve been researching the healthy brain. There’s an institute for the study of the healthy brain in Wisconsin. I’ve been out there, and listened to the speakers, and actually presented to the Dalai Lama, which was really extraordinary… And we think, “what makes people happy?” That research is what really fuels us. It’s a question I ask people when they’re presenting to me in the studio, “Is that going to make you feel good?” When I went to Tibet in 2007 I bought myself a great new camera, and started to take photographs myself. I started to sell them about five years ago, so now I’m going to have an exhibition. I’m always exploring something new. That’s how I’ve always seen you for the past 30 years. Always exploring, always moving forward with things people haven’t seen, something new. But not “trendy new”. Not trendy, no. With my clients, I don’t let up until I feel that something’s right for the wellness and health and joy of the people who are going to be there. It’s funny, one of my clients emailed me the other day and he wrote “Relentless, Clodagh!” [Laughs.]
INTERVIEW - CLODAGH - 21
Label Profiler EINSTOFFEN
9
Photography BERT SPANGEMACHER Text CHRISTINE TOMAS
SWISS SWISH
Nature’s beauty plays a heavy hand in EINSTOFFEN’s collection, using materials such as wood or stone. And where others stumble when working with these materials, EINSTOFFEN excels. By artfully combining other materials, like acetate with natural wood, the result is a more sophisticated, not at all clunky frame.
Ten years ago, Swiss brand EINSTOFFEN set out to bridge the worlds of raw nature, street fashion, and eyewear. Inspired by nature, yet pulled by the cosmopolitan allure of art, cinema, and music, the brand isn’t afraid to combine seemingly disparate elements to create their unique handmade designs. Their ingenuity paid off: recently, the company won three trophies from the 2018 German Design Awards. A “swish” for the Swiss, indeed.
EINSTOFFEN’s ZUCKERBÄCKER line stays true to its namesake—”candy maker.” The acetate and wooden frames are offered in various colors and two versions. While the frames are designed especially for delicate facial features, its modern lines complement virtually any face. We loved the acetate model, which features a glossy transparent frame with temples partially made of wood. The look is solid, sweet, and all at once delicious. The peach burl model features delicate wooden layers with natural wavy grains and are remarkably light, despite their solid construction.
HOFFMANN
SIMPLICITY IS SOPHISTICATION Composed using natural, hypoallergenic materials under exacting German standards, HOFFMANN Atelier’s classic designs have stood the test of time—40 years, to be exact, as the company celebrates its anniversary this year. The story goes that founder Josef Hoffmann, fueled by his love of eyewear and buffalo horn’s exquisite qualities, began making natural horn
frames for himself. His dedication and motivation to his craft led to the company’s founding in 1978. The company’s design credo is simple: Hoffmann Natural Eyewear is made for people who live their individuality. Thus, their timeless designs complement and bring full focus on the wearer—not on the frame or the brand for that matter. HOFFMANN is so dedicated to this philosophy that their designs feature no logo. What’s remarkable about HOFFMANN is that while every pair of glasses is 100% handcrafted in Germany and offers the highest degree of individuality, the brand is accessible in fifty countries worldwide. Today, the brand is famous for making the slimmest horn frames in the world. Thanks to Triplex-Horn® technology, unmatched stability is achieved despite the exceptionally thin material used. In addition to buffalo horn, the company artfully combines ultra-luxurious natural materials such as fine wood, alpaca hair, silk, and gold.
S-LINE 2246 D H10/910-H10
S-LINE 791 H30 MATT
ANNIVERSARY COLLECTION 40-VI MATT
ZUCKERBÄCKER 22 - LABEL PROFILER
LABEL PROFILER - 23
Dark Matter A touch of extravaganza instantly adds an edge and creates a drama. The mood is surreal, taking us to an undefined territory of style. Photography MARC BAPTISTE @ Cerutti + Co. Styling ROBYN VICTORIA FERNANDES Makeup GREGG BROCKINGTON @ Sally Harlor Hair MARC MENA @ Exclusive Artists using Oribe Haircare
10
24 - DARK MATTER
JOHNNY SUNGLASSES BY
GREY ANT FROMONE Coat by Xuly.Bët, Shirt by Ralph Lauren DARK MATTER - 25
JOHNNY SUNGLASSES BY
GREY ANT FROMONE Coat by Xuly.Bët, Shirt by Ralph Lauren 26 - DARK MATTER
ANYA SUNGLASSES BY
MOSCHINO 001/S Dress by Cheng-Huai Chuang, Earrings and Rings by Lairucci
ALEX
ANYA
SUNGLASSES BY
SUNGLASSES BY
IC! BERLIN POMPOM
MOSCHINO 000/S
Dress by Carolina Sarria, Earrings byErickson Beamon, Hat by J.R. Malpere
Jumpsuit by Rubin Chapelle, Leather Jacket by Christian Benner, Earrings by Stylist Own DARK MATTER - 27
ANYA ALEX
SUNGLASSES BY
SUNGLASSES BY
GREY ANT INCIDENTAL HABIT
DIOR STELLAIRE Choker by Yves Saint Laurent 28 - DARK MATTER
Coat by Georgine, Mesh top by Stylist Own, Headband by J.R. Malpere DARK MATTER - 29
Around the Corner Looking for a slice of home in a foreign place, sometimes all it takes is to peek around the corner to discover a world filled with comfort and heritage. With a fresh outlook and a little bit of fantasy in mind, take it to the streets to make daydreams into reality. Photography CAN DAĞARSLANı Model SOPHIE BOGDAN
11
30 - AROUND THE CORNER
GLASSES BY
OLIVER PEOPLES OV1234 GLASSES BY
OLIVER PEOPLES OV1228T
AROUND THE CORNER - 31
SUNGLASSES BY
PERSOL PO3198S
GLASSES BY
SALT. LACEY 32 - AROUND THE CORNER
AROUND THE CORNER - 33
GLASSES BY
ETNIA BARCELONA SHINJUKU GLASSES BY
OLIVER PEOPLES OV5373U
34 - AROUND THE CORNER
AROUND THE CORNER - 35
GLASSES BY
SALT. LACEY 36 - AROUND THE CORNER
GLASSES BY
OLIVER PEOPLES OV5373U AROUND THE CORNER - 37
EYEWEAR BY
BARTON PERREIRA &
LINDBERG
Color Bounce There is no doubt that the best eyewear frames are beautiful objects packed with personality. Like stars out for a night on the town, these high impact frames are the center of attention, each one vying for the limelight and leaning in for their much-deserved close up.
38 - COLOR BOUNCE
12 Photography KAZ ARAHAMA
COLOR BOUNCE - 39
EYEVAN 7285 MODEL 717W 40 - COLOR BOUNCE
LINDBERG 1834/ WD13-U9 1171/ AH93 6549/ C14M-U12 METTE/ K137-PU12 1171/ AH95 METTE/ K209-GT COLOR BOUNCE - 41
BARTON PERREIRA DEMOISELLE ESPIRUTU SOL MATE
BLACKFIN ARC SUNSET REEF BLACK ROCK 42 - COLOR BOUNCE
COLOR BOUNCE - 43
GLASSES BY
BLACKFIN PLEASANT BAY
Spring Affair
Top and Jacket by Steinrohner
Light that adds softness and awakens the beauty in all things, a sign of spring. Minimal lines are combined with subtle colors, adding to the air of nostalgia.
13
Photography ALEXANDER ZUBER @ Fariyal Kennel Styling ANITA KRIZANOVIC Hair and Makeup FELIX STÖßER
SUNGLASSES BY
ALAIN MIKLI LEALA Blouse and Trousers by Valentine Gauthier 44 - SPRING AFFAIR
SPRING AFFAIR - 45
SUNGLASSES BY
ETNIA BARCELONA HAMPSTEAD Top and Coat by Dawid Tomaszewski
SUNGLASSES BY
COBLENS ALUFELGE Blouse by Who’s That Girl, Coat by Michael Sontag
46 - SPRING AFFAIR
SPRING AFFAIR - 47
Brilliance in a Bottle Jewel-toned, crystal-cut bottles adorn a vanity cabinet and its sight tickles one’s fancy, reminding us that beauty is our natural instinct.
14 Photography KAZ ARAHAMA
DECORTÉ FROM LEFT TO RIGHT:
PRADA CANDY GLOSS 48 - BRILLIANCE IN A BOTTLE
VI-FUSION ESSENCE MOISTURE LIPOSOME TREATMENT LIQUID AQ MELIORITY W CONCENTRATION AQ MELIORITY INTENSIVE CREAM AQ MELIORITY EYE CREAM OVERNIGHT PERFORMANCE CREAM BRILLIANCE IN A BOTTLE - 49
CHANEL LE VERNIS FROM LEFT TO RIGHT:
#588 #592 #590
50 - BRILLIANCE IN A BOTTLE
SHU UEMURA CLEANSING OILS BRILLIANCE IN A BOTTLE - 51
SUNGLASSES BY
RAY-BAN RB 3584-N
Simple Beauty Stripped down or sported up, bare masculinity is the perfect template for extraordinary beauty. The full effect of the transformative power of statement shapes is enhanced by the simple silhouettes and the space at the edge of light and dark. Photography BERT SPANGEMACHER Styling DAVOR JELUSIC @ Tom Folwarkow Management Hair and Makeup IVANA ZORIC
15
52 - SIMPLE BEAUTY
GLASSES BY
LINDBERG NOW 6547 Pants by Aeance, Shoes by Hoka One One
SIMPLE BEAUTY - 53
SUNGLASSES BY
SALT. ELIHU Top by Uniqlo
SUNGLASSES BY
HOFFMANN NATURAL EYEWEAR - DESIGN BY RALPH VAESSEN SPYKER PRELIATOR 54 - SIMPLE BEAUTY
SIMPLE BEAUTY - 55
GLASSES BY
LINDBERG NOW 6547 Pants by Aeance
SUNGLASSES BY
L.G.R REUNION III Jacket and Pants by Arys
56 - SIMPLE BEAUTY
SIMPLE BEAUTY - 57
SUNGLASSES BY SUNGLASSES BY
HOFFMANN NATURAL EYEWEAR - DESIGN BY RALPH VAESSEN OCKER STH10-H10 Jacket by Arys
58 - SIMPLE BEAUTY
EYEVAN 7285 156(48) Underwear by Tommy Hilfiger, Socks by Adidas, Shoes by Ecco, Cap by P.E Nationys
SIMPLE BEAUTY - 59
Let Me Be
16
GLASSES BY
BARTON PERREIRA THURSTON
Photography ANDREAS WALDSCHUETZÂ Hair and Makeup SERVULLO MENDEZ Costume FJBAUR, LAURAMO by LAURA KRETTEK 60 - LET ME BE
LET ME BE - 61
GLASSES BY
BARTON PERREIRA ESPIRUTU
GLASSES BY
BARTON PERREIRA ESPIRUTU 62 - LET ME BE
LET ME BE - 63
SUNGLASSES BY
MARC O’POLO 506125
LIFE, DO NOT PLACE YOUR FINGER OF SILENCE ON MY LIPS LET ME BE HOW MUCH I WISH TO INHALE ELECTRICITY AND LIGHT TO FLOAT IN TRUST, RIDE WAVES OF SERENDIPITY TO SMILE AT THE DARK SIDE OF THE MOON UNAFRAID SO FAR FROM FRAGILITY WANT EVERYTHING, WHETHER LIGHT OR DARK, TO ROLL OVER ME IN WAVES TO SHOUT AND TO YEARN AND TO TOUCH TURN MY INSIDES OUT, BE BRAVE WANT TO LIVE BEYOND MY REFLECTION, SHINE FOR THE DETAILS. BE FREE. BY
64 - LET ME BE
ALEXANDRA
VON
QUADT LET ME BE - 65
SUNGLASSES BY
BARTON PERREIRA VASHON
GLASSES BY
AIGNER 30539
66 - LET ME BE
LET ME BE - 67
SUBSCRIPTION 4 EYEWEAR 4 FASHION 4 LIFESTYLE 4 CU LT U RE
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4SEE MAGAZIN - SUBSCRIPTION - 69
4SEE Eyewear Archive VIII
17
Photography CHARLOTTE KRAUSS Text JUSTIN ROSS
VOGUE EYEWEAR VO5237S This knockout design by Gigi Hadid for Vogue Eyewear started a whole new trend of slim cat-eyes. Made out of a bold acetate choice, it also includes a sexy lens color for an all-around stunner.
Beauty comes in many shapes and sizes but impeccable design is timeless. The frames we have collected for this edition of the eyewear archive take a risk and reap the rewards, fusing high-tech materials or reimagining shape and scale, these instant classics really show that there are a lot of beautiful things to appreciate in life.
ALAIN MIKLI MISS J Taking the slim cat-eye to the extreme in translucent acetate with black contrast outlines, Alain Mikli manages to make what is old new again in a fusion of feminine futurism inspired by one of our style idols Grace Jones.
LINDBERG SUN TITANIUM 8408 Delicate and decadent, Lindberg amazes us with a totally high-tech combination of titanium and a wow-factor acetate for the best of both worlds.
FLEYE LOBSTER These frames from Fleye are named Lobster for good reason, picking up on fun flourishes from their crustacean inspiration they have just the right amount of whimsy and quality for a top-notch design that fits a wide range of face shapes.
IC! BERLIN BISE The new silk collection from ic! berlin is leading the charge towards ultra-slim and lightweight frames but still manages to pack a stylish punch with a fun shape and color accents.
CUTLER & GROSS 1277-01 A real looker, high contrast between the round black frames and the whimsical hooded shades in white with ornate metal details and sleek metal nose pads.
70 - EYEWARE ARCHIVE VIII
Ă˜RGREEN EERO 852 Masterful and unique, Ă˜rgreen takes a bite out of summer with these fun unisex frames with angular color blocking for an urban chic vibe that echoes modern architecture.
KOMONO THE SHELDON ROSE GOLD Sleek and understated, these thin metal frames pick up on a classic shape but also hint at modern sophistication with a straight brow bridge and metal nose pads letting your true beauty show through. EYEWARE ARCHIVE VIII - 71
EYEVAN 7285 717W(48)
VICTORIA BECKHAM FINE OPTICAL SQUARE
Talk about a winning combination! These sunglasses from Eyevan are a perfect fusion of vintage details and decisively modern design updates. Slim is definitely in, and the almost impossibly thin temples here are made out of sturdy beta-titanium, rounded out with a slick acetate rim.
Victoria Beckham bucks the trend towards small and simple with oversized square frames that don’t actually overpower but complement different face shapes with thin frames made from a smoky brown acetate for a sexy smart look.
SASHEE SCHUSTER BERTA GRAUER STRAUSS/ GREY OSTRICH
IRRESISTOR METROPOLIS III
A delicate graphic pattern on the front is achieved by embedding a real feather in the cool grey acetate that makes up this fun retro frame.
Lightweight titanium provides a playful base for these art deco-inspired aviators with cut-out tracks from trendsetting Korean style innovator Irresistor.
KALEOS RADLEY Red suspended lenses with a cheeky cutout up top are encased in vivid red acetate frames for a memorable and chic combination from stylish Kaleos.
EINSTOFFEN AGENTIN The devil is in the details and Einstoffen’s clever combination of patterned wood both front and back and ornately carved metal temples doesn’t disappoint from any angle.
SALT. LOU L.G.R ZERAF A luxurious combination of gold and black has been implemented to perfection in every detail from gold screws to signature black acetate nose pads in these ultra-modern frames from L.G.R. 72 - EYEWARE ARCHIVE VIII
Salt. delivers a grounded and subtle combination of a rich green acetate temple and a burnished titanium front that showcases their exquisite taste in materials and dedication to perfect craftsmanship. EYEWARE ARCHIVE VIII - 73
ETNIA BARCELONA SILVERLAKE Effortlessly cool and chic sophistication ooze out from these vintageinspired frames with extra special color temple tips that add to their pop appeal.
XAVIER GARCIA MONROY Part of a new push towards minimalism, Xavier Garcia emphasizes color in these frames and hit it spot on with a lusciously deep ultraviolet shade that sucks you right in, just one in a range of new colors that they developed for Spring 2018.
HOFFMANN NATURAL EYEWEAR DESIGN BY RALPH VAESSEN OCKER STH10-H10 One for the ages, Hoffmann amps it up with an interesting combination of their signature horn and a solid stone front; the result of a design collaboration with fashion insider Ralph Vaessen is a real rock star pair of sunglasses, winning it celebrity status.
VAVA METROPLEX
74 - EYEWARE ARCHIVE VIII
bartonperreira.com
Edges for days, we couldn’t help but fall for the futuristic vibe these frames give off with their unabashed chunkiness and geometric flare, produced in a limited edition from VAVA.
