FASHION時裝秀圖排版設計

FASHION Quietly kicked off after the men's fashion week,

Valentino 2021 春夏高級訂製服系列，此次也因為疫情的緣故以線 上方式播出，選址於義大利羅馬科隆納宮（Galleria Colonna）。 Valentino Women's SS21 Haute Couture Collection. Presented on digital platforms due to the pandemic, the show took place at the opulent Sala Grande of the Galleria Colonna in Italy.

the Haute Couture fashion week regained its steps to face the changes brought by the pandemic.

In Search of Summertime Classics

Combining inspiring concepts and this enduring ingenuity, high fashion brands had taken excellent countermeasures that embodied the timeless value of exquisite craftsmanship. Inspired by the feminine salons, Chanel's show was like a private wedding

尋古典之夏

in a fantastical village, while Dior channeled the

2021 春夏季高級訂製系列 SS21 Haute Couture

debut and used Virginia Woolf's Orlando as his

mystical spirits of tarot cards. Meanwhile, Kim Jones chose Haute Couture to make his FENDI key inspiration—a show that married the feminine sensibility with masculine charisma. And lastly, under Pierpaolo Piccioli's lead, Valentino redefined its usual flair and complexity with the combination of bold silhouettes and minimalistic art. Once again, Piccioli surprised us by opening the door to Chanel 2021 春夏高級訂製服系列。 Chanel's SS21 Haute Couture Collection.

the future of fashion by creating an undaunting clash of aesthetics.

FENDI 2021 春夏高級訂製服系列。 FENDI Haute Couture Spring Summer 2021.

高級訂製服裝週在男裝週之後悄悄揭開了序幕，面對疫情品牌也不再是手忙腳 亂，對於一場結合著發想理念和匠心傳承的高級訂製服裝週，品牌帶著絕妙的 對策，發揚著精緻工藝的永恆價值。Chanel 以充滿女性韻味的沙龍前身為靈感， 打造一場宛如私人夢幻庭園的婚禮 ; Dior 再次以魔幻意象投入塔羅牌的神秘氛 圍 ; Kim Jones 於 FENDI 的第一場高級訂製服系列，以二次元模糊的小說《奧 蘭多》作為發想靈感，在雌雄難分的柔美與陽剛中綻放 ; Valentino 在創意總監 Pierpaolo Piccioli 的華麗與繁複薰陶下，跳脫了浮誇，結合了大膽輪廓與極簡 藝術，時尚詩人 Pierpaolo Piccioli 總不按牌理出牌，挑戰著大膽的審美衝突。

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Dior 2021 春夏高級訂製服系列。 Christian Dior Spring 2021 Couture Collection.

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FASHION

Dior 心靈塔羅牌

塔

羅牌的神秘氛圍，好似一場無止盡的深淵，跳進去就 再也出不來，周旋在魔幻國度，漣漪起想像。從上

一季 Dior 2020 秋冬高訂，逃離了疫情的困惑與艱難，以數 位方式帶領大家沈醉於神話與慢節奏的精緻浪漫想像中。

透過時尚與電影的交融， 描繪出塔羅牌的奇幻角色， 其中為塔羅牌中的女祭司。 （High Priestess） With the collaboration of fashion and cinema, the movie portrays the fantastical characters appearing on tarot cards.

D

ior's Spiritual Tarot Cards The mysterious aura of tarot cards lures like a

bottomless abyss, a mesmerizing magical realm that creates ripples of imagination—once you enter, there is no resurfacing. In last season's FW21 Haute Couture show, Dior escaped the hardship and confusion of the pandemic and led

Maria Grazia Chiuri 再度與義大利知名導演 Matteo Garrone 透

us into a mythical, romantic imagination with a digital runway

過時尚與電影的交融，描繪出塔羅牌的奇幻角色，展演 45

show. This year, Maria Grazia Chiur once again worked with

套全新服裝，並製作長達 15 分鐘的《The Tarot Castle》概

the renowned Italian director, Matteo Garrone, to produce

念電影。

a 15-minute concept film, "The Tarot Castle." With the 迪奧先生熱衷於占卜，並對命運徵兆無比癡迷，現在的 處境猶如時代的輪迴，也許我們不像那個年代經歷戰爭 的苦痛，但隨著疫情肆虐著全球，逃避與脫離現實，成

collaboration of fashion and cinema, the movie portrays the fantastical characters appearing on tarot cards and presents 45 brand new looks exclusive to the collection.

了人們內心一小部分的依靠，Dior 抓住了此想法，將塔 羅牌視為打開神秘世界的鑰匙，藉此探索未知事物並大 膽審視潛在內心深處的自我意識。電影其中，我們看到 了塔羅牌中的女祭司（High Priestess）、皇后（Empress）、 正義（Justice）及愚者（Fool）等角色，在猶如催化劑般 的音樂下，跟著角色的服裝擺動下緩緩陷入，蕾絲鑲嵌

蕾絲鑲嵌手繪裝飾、金色天鵝絨蘊藏星座元素、點點繁星灑落細膩的緹花面 料，五彩斑斕的羽毛綻放於斗篷大衣，栩栩如生的 3D 立體效果在概念電影 下令人著迷，如癡如醉。 Lace inlaid with hand-painted embellishments, golden velvet adorned with elements of the zodiac sign, jacquards sprinkled with stars, capes with multicolored feathers—and enjoy the true-to-life 3D concept film that invites you into Dior's medieval fantasia.

手繪裝飾、金色天鵝絨蘊藏星座元素、點點繁星灑落細 膩的緹花面料，五彩斑斕的羽毛綻放於斗篷大衣，栩栩 如生的 3D 立體效果在概念電影下令人著迷，如癡如醉。 Dior 2021 春夏高級訂製服系列。 Christian Dior Spring 2021 Couture Collection.

Monsieur Dior was a huge believer of fortune-telling and was fascinated with reading the signs of destiny. Perhaps we are way past the pains and suffering of warfare, but this global pandemic is like a reincarnation of history—an escape from reality becomes a secret remedy that everyone yearns for. Dior captured this desire and chose tarot cards as the key to a mystical realm, a safe haven for us to explore the unknown and to examine our deepest consciousness. In the film, we see iconic characters such as the High Priestess, Empress, Justice, and Fool, slow-dancing along with the catalytic melodies. Follow the iconic figures sublimated to celebrate the art of weaving—lace inlaid with hand-painted embellishments, golden velvet adorned with elements of the zodiac sign, jacquards sprinkled with stars, capes with multicolored feathers—and enjoy the true-to-life 3D concept film that invites you into Dior's medieval fantasia.

Dior 2021 春夏高級訂製服系列。 Christian Dior Spring 2021 Couture Collection.

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Dior 2021 春夏高級訂製服系列。 Christian Dior Spring 2021 Couture Collection.

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FASHION 在秀中可以看到 Kim Jones 的 超大號招力與影響力，超級 名模 Kate Moss 的女兒 Lila.

From the SS21 show, it wasn't hard to see Kim Jones's appeal and influence in the industry.

Kate Moss' daughter Lila Grace.

衣服改變了我們對世界的看法，也改 變了世界看待我們的方式。 — 英國著名女性主義作家 Virginia Woolf 《奧蘭多 Orlando》 每套秀服也如同奧蘭 多般，猶如穿梭在幾 個世紀之間，可以自 由的變換不同的性 別。 Switching between different centuries, each look echoed with the coed Orlando that fluctuated between the two genders with freedom and no restraint.

Fendi's Transcendence through Orlando What comes to mind when you first hear the name Orlando? Is it the handsome boy who sits under the tree reading, the pondering intellect pacing around the study, or the queen of Versaille wearing a layered skirt and beautiful makeup? His first venture into FENDI women's Haute Couture, Kim Jones focused on making time traveling and the blurring of the two dimensional space as the central themes of this collection. No single piece could be defined as feminine or masculine, tender or virile, as he designed each piece with this free flow of gender. Besides the couture show, he also presented a literary exhibition curated by Sammy Jay of Peter Harrington Rare Books that showcased an array of rare, hand printed manuscripts.

超級名模 Cara Delevingne。 British supermodel Cara Delevingne.

美國女演員黛咪摩爾。 American actress Demi Moore.

FENDI 穿越奧蘭多 想到 Orlando 奧蘭多，你會先想到什麼？是俊俏臉龐悠然坐在

Kim Jones 於 FENDI 推出首個高級訂製服系列。 Kim Jones's first venture into FENDI women's Haute Couture.

樹下看著書的他、單手拿著書在充滿書香氣息的房間裡的他，

From the SS21 show, it wasn't hard to see Kim

又或是宛如凡爾賽皇后般的蛋糕蓬裙與脂粉的她。Kim Jones

Jones's appeal and influence in the industry.

於 FENDI 推出首個高級訂製服系列，將穿越時空與二次元模

His cast of models included models and

糊的小說作為這個系列的中心主題，雌雄難分的柔美與陽剛

celebrities such as Demi Moore, Kate Moss

流淌在系列的每一件華美服飾之間，除了舉辦高訂秀外，同

and her daughter Lila, and Cara Delevingne,

時還舉辦了由 Peter Harrington Rare Books 的 Sammy Jay 所策劃

who hadn't made her appearance on runway in a while.

的期間限定珍本圖書手稿展。

With slow steps, they walked among the glass maze

在秀中可以看到 Kim Jones 的超大號招力與影響力，出場的模

with elegance and confidence. Making each window

特與藝人包含 Demi Moore、Kate Moss 與女兒 Lila 與好久沒在

display their own room, they flipped through the pages

秀上看到的超模 Cara Delevingne，緩緩地踩著步伐，優雅自

with leisure or glanced at the faraway distance—it was

信的走進玻璃陳列櫥窗中，把櫥窗變成了自己的房間，自在

like every look became a reflection of Orlando. Switching

的翻起書、凝視著遠方，每個面向都像是看見了奧蘭多的樣 子。而每套秀服也如同奧蘭多般，猶如穿梭在幾個世紀之間， 可以自由的變換不同的性別。

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between different centuries, each look echoed with the 超級名模 Kate Moss。 Supermodel Kate Moss.

coed Orlando that fluctuated between the two genders with freedom and no restraint.

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FASHION Valentino 時間法則 刪 繁 就 簡， 這 次 Valentino 高 訂 系 列 柔 化 了 我 們 的 視 覺。 創 意 總 監 Pierpaolo Piccioli 所 說 的 真 實 且 純 粹 的 美， 都 讓 Pierpaolo 執掌的高訂秀像是任性的藝術饗宴般，不跟隨流 行只創造出屬於自己的審美，我的國度我自己主宰。此次 也因為疫情的緣故以線上方式播出，選址於義大利羅馬科

此系列可以看到工藝技 術與傳承的結晶，像是 服裝上的扭結細節。 The collection also offered a detailed display of the craftsman's impeccable skills with the twisted fabric.

隆 納 宮（Galleria Colonna）， 在 Massive Attack 樂 團 的 配 樂 背景之下，一套套高訂秀服就此展開。靈感來自創意總監

剝除繁覆的裝飾和印花， 模特兒踩著極高跟鞋， 透過亮色系的色彩點亮 重點，將修長的輪廓刻 畫在這一季視覺中。 To contrast the voluminous features, the models balanced on sky-high heels with fiery hues that emphasized this season's slender visualization.

in Italy. With the band Massive Attack's background music, an array of artistic couture pieces began to unravel. In dialogue with British artist Robert Del Naj, Piccioli's "Code Temporal" was inspired by the ancient Roman and Mayan calendar. As the music started to play, the minimalist silhouette stripped away all the excessive embellishments and print and echoed with the couture garb's purity and simplicity. To contrast the voluminous features, the models balanced on sky-high heels with fiery hues

Pierpaolo Piccioli 與英國藝術家 Robert Del Naja 將古老馬雅曆

that emphasized this season's slender visualization. Meanwhile,

的「時間法則」變成一場大秀。隨著音樂響起，單純以廓

the collection also offered a detailed display of the craftsman's

形方式烘托高訂服的純淨與簡約，剝除繁覆的裝飾和印花，

impeccable skills with the twisted fabric and last season's

模特兒踩著極高跟鞋，透過亮色系的色彩點亮重點，將修

handwoven rose petals transformed into clothing that came to

長的輪廓刻畫在這一季視覺中。另外，更是可以看到工藝

life on stage with their 3D shapes.

技術與傳承的結晶，像是服裝上的扭結細節，前幾季可以

And then Piccioli surprised us with another curveball—he included menswear features into his Haute Couture collection.

Nothing too masculine, but instead, he blurred the lines distinguishing genders by adding unisex fashion. Unable to be restrained by the shackles of convention, Piccioli is just like a wandering poet that never fails to bring us an unending

Valentino 創意總監 Pierpaolo Piccioli。 Valentino Creative Director Pierpaolo Piccioli.

collection of creativity and clashing of art.

看到應用在包款配飾上的手工縫製玫瑰花瓣轉至服 裝上，立體花瓣隨著模特兒們台步步伐重生。 Pierpaolo Piccioli 此次還有另一個創舉，男裝風格也納 入高訂系列的設計中，看不到太過陽剛的氣質，反 而是模糊了性別界線，將無性別時尚加入於其中。 沒有界限沒有束縛的 Pierpaolo Piccioli 像是位吟遊 詩人，總是可以帶給大家滿腹創意和藝術激盪。

Valentino's Law of Time

隨著音樂響起，單純以廓形方式烘 托高訂服的純淨與簡約。 As the music started to play, the minimalist silhouette stripped away all the excessive embellishments and print and echoed with the couture garb's purity and simplicity.

Abandoning complexity and aiming for simplicit y, Valentino's Haute Couture collection softened our visualization.

Artistic Director Pierpaolo Piccioli's advocac y for this true and pure beauty turned his Couture show into a capricious art feast that only followed his own sense of beauty and no one else's—we are the only sovereign of our own kingdom.

Presented on digital platforms due to the pandemic, the show took place at the opulent Sala Grande of the Galleria Colonna

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FASHION 2021 Prada 秋冬男裝系列場景，秀場大膽撞色，使用了大理石、 樹脂、石膏和人造皮草精心打造，每個元素都激發著感官。 Prada AW21 special view. The set uses bright colors and panes of marble, resin, plaster, and faux fur, making sure each element inspires sensory stimulation.

衝擊感官

繼

去年年初 Prada 宣布 Raf Simons 與 Miuccia Prada 共同擔任創意總監，由兩位頂尖設計師的嶄新

組合，並在 2021 春夏女裝發表了第一場共同大秀。在 2021 秋冬男裝週中，Raf Simons 回歸於他最擅長的男 裝舞台，果然不負眾望，成為討論度最高的一場空前 大作。即便是數位直播的方式呈現，我們依然可以看 到細節上 Raf Simons 在玩味符號以及統一識別的新花 樣，像是每套造型背後的三角形編織，以及手套包， 都是貫穿於整場秀的重複識別。另外，這次也強調觸 感的需求，服裝緊緊抓住身體並吸引人們觸碰，模特 兒們藉由貼身的提花針織，以親密接觸為基礎，顯露 出原有身體的形狀，勾勒出動感的視覺曲線，讓這些 模特兒自由的展現自由、不拘束的形體，顏色上大膽

無性別時尚

Genderless Fashion

的以色塊和撞色風格製造出多重感官世界。 2021 Prada 秋冬男裝系列。 Prada FW21 Menswear Collection.

2021 秋冬男裝大秀 Fall 2021 Menswear 「想穿什麼，就穿什麼。」時尚沒有性別之分，多元訴求與中性風格在時尚 這個無限循環中佔了一大部分，如同女性的英氣般，透射出男性瀟灑的氣 勢，同時具有陰柔的魅力和王子般的少年感。也猶如近期相當受歡迎的男 星 Timothée Chalamet，以他那文藝少年之氣息，獨特的纖瘦身材，王子般 的棕色捲髮和帶有陰柔氣質的時尚品味和魅力，讓他成為了時尚圈的新寵。 在近月的 2021 秋冬男裝大秀中，男裝出現了更多柔美、女性的元素，除了 GUCCI 、Burberry 與 Balenciaga 等品牌宣布合併男女時裝秀外，依然可以 在秋冬時裝週中發現男裝的自由無性別時尚。 "Wear what you want" because fashion is not defined by gender. All the diverse appeals and unisex style had become a big part of the fashion cycle.

The feminine heroic spirit not only reflects the patriarchal carefree nature, but also embodies a tender charm and the youthfulness of a prince. Like Timothée Chalamet, who had become a fashion icon with his artsy aesthetics, lean posture and prince-like brown curls, and his refined taste and allure—

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模特兒自由的展現自由、不拘束的形體，顏色上大膽 的以色塊和撞色風格製造出多重感官世界。 Through the dynamic visualization, the models are able to express with no restraints or limitations, allowing the bold color blocks and clashing shades to create a world of layered sensory.

T

he Clash of Senses Ever since Prada's announcement of having Raf Simmons

and Miuccia Prada both as the brand's artistic director last year, the era-defining union presented their debut women's fashion show for SS21. Now arriving at SS21 men's fashion week, Simons returns to menswear which he's the best at, and of course, the show becomes the biggest anticipation of the year. Though presented through digital platforms, we still get the chance to witness how Simons plays with the archival Prada graphics— the iconic triangle logo adorned every piece, the creative glovepurse—and creates this unified identification for the label. The

all of which making him the industry's new favorite. In the recent FW21

new collection also emphasizes "the sensual touch" with tight-

menswear collection, we notice elements of gentle femininity added to the

fitted tailoring that recreates the feeling of a warm embrace

usual masculine designs. Besides brands such as GUCCI, Burberry, and

Through the dynamic visualization, the models are able to

Balenciaga who announced a mixed gender fashion show, we can still see how

express with no restraints or limitations, allowing the bold color

menswear had transcended into a free, unisex fashion in the FW21 season.

blocks and clashing shades to create a world of layered sensory.

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FASHION 蘇格蘭傳統格紋花呢裙裝像是沿地散開般的禮服，在正式與慵懶感之間取捨。 Scottish tartans trail on the floor, Virgil Abloh strikes a balance between formal and comfortable attire.

A Cultural Tourist Virgil Abloh had been the talk of the town ever since

that comes with each role. With the Scottish tartans

he was pointed as LOUIS VUITTON's menswear creative

and dramatically elongated coats that trail on the floor,

director. His high profile meant not only public praisal,

Abloh strikes a balance between formal and comfortable

but also criticism and judgement. However, Abloh still

attire. Perhaps his most autobiographical yet, he pays

comes back with the newest FW21 men's collection

homage to his African heritage by combining Ghanaian

that captures everyone's attention. Inspired by James

clothing designs with modernity—a creative exploration

Baldwin's 1953 essay, "Stranger in the Village," he aims

of traditional values and concepts. Meanwhile, Abloh also

to investigate the quotidian archetypes—including the

invites Black transexual model, Kai Isaiah-Jamal, that not

artist, the salesman, the architect, the drifter,

only proves fashion's potential to unsettle stereotypical

and more—and to unsettle the stereotype

thinking, but also fully expresses the diversity of cultures.

拖地大衣像是沿地散開般 的禮服，在正式與慵懶感 之間取捨。 Dramatically elongated coats trail on the floor, Virgil Abloh strikes a balance between formal and comfortable attire.

模特兒手中的咖啡杯以及報紙都是這場秀中文化旅人的象徵。 The coffee and newspaper in the hands of the models are emblems of the cultural tourist, the key inspiration of the show.

Virgil Abloh 加入了以父母親家鄉迦納的非洲文化，以當地的服裝以及布料構思並 與科技感做結合，翻玩各種傳統既定價值觀以及概念。 Virgil Abloh pays homage to his African heritage by combining Ghanaian clothing designs with modernity—a creative exploration of traditional values and concepts.

文化觀光客 LOUIS VUITTON 男裝創意總監 Virgil Abloh 的自帶話題 量帶給了他掌聲同時也夾雜著很多的批評，就在近月 推出的 2021 秋冬男裝系列，Virgil Abloh 像是強勢回歸 般，席捲了所有人的眼球，以一名文化觀光客，包含 了藝術家、銷售員、建築師、漂流者等人的原型作為 出發點，靈感源自 James Baldwin 著於 1953 年的論文 《Stranger in the Village》，並打破對於角色的既定框 架。包含了蘇格蘭傳統格紋花呢裙裝和拖地大衣像是 沿地散開般的禮服，在正式與慵懶感之間取捨 ; 其中 Virgil 加入了以父母親家鄉迦納的非洲文化，以當地的 服裝以及布料構思並與科技感做結合，翻玩各種傳統 既定價值觀以及概念。另外，此次更是聘用了跨性別 身份的模特兒 Kai Isaiah-Jamal ，讓整場秀中不只是在 服裝上強調打破既定觀點更是將多元文化徹底展現。 其中飛機貫穿整個系列，包含了服裝上以及配件包款上，都像是現今對於旅行 與飛翔的渴望。 Aircraft becomes a motif throughout the whole collection, appearing on the clothing and accessories and symbolizing the modern day desire to travel.

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Virgil Abloh 像是強勢回歸般，席捲了所有人的眼球，以一名文化觀光客，將巴黎置入 在服裝造型中。 Virgil Abloh comes back with the newest FW21 men's collection that captures everyone's attention by incorporating Parisian elements into the clothing designs.

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FASHION The Perfect Blend Under Silvia Venturini FENDI's lead, FENDI begins to express a diversity of soft features. In its previous women's fashion show, the label used loungewear and homey comfort as the key inspiration, aiming to let women walk on stage in their most comfortable state. FENDI's SS21 menswear continues the same central theme and combines it with this special playfulness. In the new collection, we see the soft, cotton-padded coat and the trending style of tying your k nitted sweater around the shoulders with the sleeves and the sweater itself weaved into one piece, adding a bit of

fun to the popular look. The cozy white jumpsuit styled with a fitted grey car coat, a remarkable merge of both genders. With the creative and upbeat venue design, FENDI's SS21 men's collection combines all the features into one, complete visual presentation that immerses the audience in this colorful, psychedelic celebration.

結合多元風格並將完整視覺融合於一體，讓人置身於豐富的幻彩饗宴。 FENDI's SS21 men's collection combines all the features into one, complete visual presentation that immerses the audience in this colorful, psychedelic celebration.

秀場為 360 度的鏡面隧道中，鏡面中投射出多個分身， 天花板下懸吊著彩色霓虹燈框的門廊，以繽紛的色彩與 光線猶如色彩迷宮般，跟著音符節奏前進。 Set in a 360 degree-mirrored tunnel with the reflection of multiple silhouettes, the neon lights drape from the ceiling, creating a maze-like sensation with its blazing colors and mesmerizing lights. 針織的慵懶米白連身吊帶褲與收 腰式的灰色 Car Coat 收腰大衣都讓 FENDI 秋冬男裝增添了女性柔軟的獨 特韻味。 The cozy white jumpsuit styled with a fitted grey car coat, a remarkable merge of both genders.

完美融合 在 Silvia Venturini FENDI 帶領下的 FENDI 展現了更多元面 相的柔性面貌，包含了前幾季的女裝系列以家中閨房 以及舒適感受做為主軸，讓女性以最為舒適的姿態走 上伸展台。而 FENDI 2021 秋冬男裝也沿用了舒適感受， 並與特有的玩心結合，在整個系列當中，可以看到猶 如老奶奶風格般的柔軟棉襖式腰帶大衣，以及近年秋 冬相當受歡迎的針織毛衣綁在領口，FENDI 也以趣味 的方式讓袖子與針織毛衣一體成型 ; 針織的慵懶米白連 身吊帶褲與收腰式的灰色 Car Coat 收腰大衣都讓 FENDI 秋冬男裝增添了女性柔軟的獨特韻味，加上潮流玩味 的秀場設計，完整地結合多元風格並將完整視覺融合 於一體，讓人置身於豐富的幻彩饗宴。

近年秋冬相當受歡迎的針織毛衣綁在領口，FENDI 也以趣味的方式讓袖子與針織毛衣一體成型。 The trending style of tying your knitted sweater around the shoulders with the sleeves and the sweater itself weaved into one piece, adding a bit of fun to the popular look.

在整個系列當中，可以看到猶如老奶奶風格般的柔軟棉襖式腰帶大衣。 In the new collection, we see the soft, cotton-padded coat.

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ENYA MAGAZINE 71

FASHION 年代錯視

A Vintage Modernity

Dior 男裝創意總監 Kim Jones 由陽剛的華貴典禮束裝汲

Drawing inspiration from a mixture of military style and

取靈感，並與當代傳奇畫家 Peter Doig 設計，Peter Doig

gilded embroidery, Kim Jones, creative director of Dior men,

特別為此合作設計兩款動物圖案，包括迪奧先生的愛犬

collaborates with Trinidad-based artist, Peter Doig, to create a

Bobby 以及獅子。以豐富明亮的色彩，如柔和沉靜的藍、

vision of lavish masculinity. Exclusive for the FW21 collection,

淡紫紅、迪奧灰以及象徵法式生活樂趣的亮黃色、橙色

the artist designed two animalistic emblems—Mr. Christian

打造一幅幅栩栩如生的時尚畫作。另外，暈染漸層以及

Dior's beloved pet, Bobby, and a lion from one of his own

透視、撞色、滾邊的巴洛克風格刺繡都讓這季的男裝風

paintings. With the gentle blue, lavender blush, Dior grey, and

格更顯藝術風情，彷彿置身於美好年代下，那激盪著文

the bright yellow symbolizing the joys of the French lifestyle—

學、超現實藝術、精緻美學的文化氛圍，甚至是帶有西

these vivid, chromatic colors paint an array of true-to-life

書中時裝秀

班牙夜晚風情的浪漫與不羈，讓人一步步走進現代與復

masterpieces. Gradient shades, see through garments, color

Loewe 創意總監 Jonathan Anderson 從藝術家 Joe Brainard

古融合的視覺饗宴。

clash, and Baroque trims, all together adds a touch of artistic

2021 秋冬男女裝系列以概念方式「Show in a Book」發布，書套內為一本 200 頁的精裝書冊。 FW21 women's and men's collection through the concept of "A Show in a Book."

Recreating the sensation of flipping through an actual book, the 200 page bound book highlights the collection's focus and details.

的拼貼作品得到靈感，並宣布 2021 秋冬男女裝系列

aesthetic to the menswear collection. Like going back to

以概念方式「Show in a Book」發布，書套內為一本

2021 Dior 秋冬男裝系列。 Dior Men Fall 2021 Menswear Collection.

200 頁的精裝書冊，像是翻開一本有手感溫度的紙張，

Belle Époque, immerse in the cultural ambience of literature, surrealism, and the exquisite aesthetics, or enter the free-

細膩凸顯了秋冬男裝的重點以及細節，例如採用拼貼

spirited, romantic Spanish night inviting us to set foot into the

風格中的解構、顛覆以及重組，T 恤和毛衣如一變三，

visual feast of a vintage modernity.

帶有頹廢龐克的綁縛式皮褲以及超大寬褲等等，重 塑了男性傳統價值觀中的服裝文化，更是利用了 Joe

帶有西班牙夜晚風情的浪漫與不羈，讓人一步步走進現代與復古融合的 視覺饗宴。 The exquisite aesthetics, or enter the free-spirited, romantic Spanish night inviting us to set foot into the visual feast of a vintage modernity.

Brainard 彩色拼貼作品 Untitled 當中盛開的三色堇花 朵作為整系列的符碼。另外，擅長利用可愛動物形體 創作皮件的 Jonathan Anderson 也將兔子耳朵置於皮 件腰帶以及袖口上，繽紛童趣的塑形點綴於慵懶風格 的大衣外套，更加帶有陰柔氣質的調皮中性韻味和玩 味藝術。

擅長利用可愛動物形體創作皮件的 Jonathan Anderson 也將兔子耳朵置於皮 件腰帶以及袖口上。 An expert in transforming animal shapes into adorable leather accessories, Anderson incorporates rabbit ears onto leather belts and cuffs.

A Show in a Book With the innovative artist Joe Brainard's collages as his key inspiration, Jonathan Anderson, Loewe's artistic director, announces that he will be presenting FW21 women's and men's collection through the concept of "A Show in a Book." Recreating the sensation of flipping through Peter Doig 特別為此合作設計 兩款動物圖案，包括迪奧先 生的愛犬 Bobby，以及獅子， 以豐富明亮的色彩。 Peter Doig designed two animalistic emblems—Mr. Christian Dior's beloved pet, Bobby, and a lion from one of his own paintings.

an actual book, the 200 page bound book highlights the collection's focus and details. Deconstruct, mix and match, and then reassemble—the nature of a collage diversifies the presentation of t-shirts and sweaters and even reshapes the traditional men's style with buckled leather pants and tent-shaped culottes. Anderson also pays homage to the artist by making Brainard's pansy—immortalised in his colorful collage, "Untitled"— a recurring motif throughout the whole collection.

Meanwhile, an expert in transforming animal shapes into adorable leather accessories, Anderson incorporates rabbit ears onto leather belts and cuffs and adorns cozy long coats with dashingly fun features—creating 採用拼貼風格中的解構、顛覆以及重組，T 恤和毛衣如一變三。 Deconstruct, mix and match, and then reassemble—the nature of a collage diversifies the presentation of t-shirts and sweaters.

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a gender neutral style with a touch of playfulness and feminine temperament.

暈染漸層以及透視、撞 色、滾邊的巴洛克風格刺 繡都讓這季的男裝風格更 顯藝術風情。 Gradient shades, see through garments, color clash, and Baroque trims, all together adds a touch of artistic aesthetic to the menswear collection.

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FASHION

Jazzy Colors versus Surrealism

潛進深海超現實

幻彩絢爛 vs 超現實

色彩與張揚的性感間來回舞動，像是跟著水流

荷葉感的波浪狀 ruffle 褶飾， 隨著步伐上下彈動，更像是美 人魚般與海底動物。 Blazing Mexican colors bouncing on the wavy flounce-hem ruffles, as if mirroring the graceful movements of a mermaid and sea creatures.

2

021 春夏時裝秀 Versace 帶大家來到了深海神 殿世界，一窺梅杜莎的時尚美學。在奔放的

般在最深處展開一場時髦的 party，好似回到了 Versace 那最浮誇且豪放不羈的年代。Donatella Versace 打造了一個性感誘惑又具休閒運動感的 超現實維度世界，從秀上的開頭以具飽和感的螢 光繽紛色彩點綴於深海感的深藍、黑，而繽紛色 系交雜著現代黑白圓點線條感，也像是光彩濃烈 的墨西哥色彩。荷葉感的波浪狀 ruffle 褶飾，隨 著步伐上下彈動，更像是美人魚般與海底動物， 既充滿自然元素又充滿女性妖嬈風情。

Versace 2021 春夏系列， 繽紛色系交雜著現代黑 白圓點線條感。 Versace Spring 2021 Ready-to-Wear collection. The dazzling colors weaved into monochromic line designs.

繼上一期的回顧 2020 時尚事件簿，在艱鉅時日下展現獨 一無二的時尚反思與創意發想，正當大家以為極簡風格 與大自然低飽和度為 2021 春夏趨勢發展，然而許多品牌 反其道而行，2021 新年就帶觀眾暫且抽離現實、跳脫一 切寫實進入品牌創意總監打造的不存在夢幻國度，脫離 真實感也許更能夠釋放創意、美感以及藝術形式 繽紛繁 複的設計與濃豔飽和色彩直擊所有人的目光，舞吧 ! 轉 吧 ! 在這超現實的魔幻世界裡。 In our previous issue, we reviewed the major fashion events and how the industry responded to this difficult time with amazing creativity and retrospection. Right when everyone thought minimalism and natural, low-

Maison Margiela 全新 2021 春夏系列。 Maison Margiela Spring 2021 Ready-to-Wear collection.

重現 Gianni Versace 創造的海星、珊瑚、貝 殼圖樣，並組合而成「Trésor de la Mer」印 花，應用在緊身洋裝。 Donatella also pays homage to her late brother, Gianni Versace, by recreating starfish, coral, and seashell patterns from his "Trésor de la Mer" collection and applying them onto slim-fitting midi skirts.

D

eep Dive into an Aquatic Wonderland

In the SS21 ready-to-wear collection, Versace takes us to the mythical

saturated tones would be the trend of 2021, several

Atlantis and gives us a peek into Medusa's fashion aesthetics. Diving

brands caught us off guard with a surprise: surrealism.

into the deep waters to attend a grand celebration and swimming

The new SS21 collections invite the audience to detach

with the free-spirited colors, the outspoken allure—it is as if we

from reality and enter the abstract, fantastical realm

have arrived at Versace's most extravagant and unrestrained era.

created by the artistic directors; perhaps pulling away

Donatella Versace created this surreal, multi-dimensional world that

can inspire more creativity, beauty, and artistic forms. So

is provocative and leisurely. She starts off the show with the oceanic

let's dance! In this marvelous dream world and allow the

navy blue and black garments embellished with neon hues, the

dazzling, complex designs painted with saturated colors

dazzling colors weaved into monochromic line designs. Blazing

to become the center of everyone's attention.

Mexican colors bouncing on the wavy flounce-hem ruffles, as if mirroring the graceful movements of a mermaid and sea creatures to showcase the natural elements and this luscious femininity.

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FASHION

一場縮小版的時裝木偶秀 Moschino 的創意總監 Jeremy Scott 帶來了如此觀點「當 世界似乎沿著接縫分裂，新事物的內部做工細節被全

縮小版的迷你時裝秀也給了人們 脫離現實感的夢幻袖珍世界。 The perfect invitation to escape reality and set foot into the fantastical, pocket-sized realm of the marionettes.

Moschino 的創意總監 Jeremy Scott 也化身成 縮小版木偶。 Moschino's creative director, Jeremy Scott, also becomes a miniature marionette.

然揭露。」現今的時尚似乎更多的是取決於創意內容， 是不是除了更要懂得設計服裝以外，創意的比重已經遠 遠大過於服裝本身，這點，也正好是擁有童趣與跳耀思 維風格的 Jeremy Scott 一個很大的優勢，包含了前幾季 秀上的浮誇的瑪麗安東尼皇后，猶如行走的三層生日 蛋糕般 ; 又或是一場畢卡索式的藝術饗宴，Jeremy Scott 一直很懂得抓住這個世代的眼球，每一次的秀都可以創 造話題與版面。 而 2021 春夏，除了已縮小版的時裝人偶與操偶師走出 的一場大秀外，更是聚焦在服裝細節工藝以及剪裁做 工，好像一直與實穿性沒有關聯的 Moschino，也在這 場大秀中表現了更多的實穿性與細節表現。也許這場秀 並不是一場超現實風格，但縮小版的迷你時裝秀也給了 人們脫離現實感的夢幻袖珍世界。 一套套精美工藝的服裝，除了創意以外更是注重細節，像是緊身 馬甲的鋼絲線條、皮革夾克的拉鍊與布料間的接縫處和各種華 麗精美的刺繡與珠飾褶皺等等。 Intricately crafted garments that were not only creative, but also paid great attention to details such as the steel wires in the bralettes, the zippers on the leather jackets, the stitch work of the fabrics, and the gem embellishments and elegant embroideries.

Moschino 2021 春夏系列。 Moschino Spring Summer 2021 collection.

Moschino 2021 春夏系列。 Moschino Spring Summer 2021 collection.

A Puppet-Sized Fashion Show

to Jeremy Scott's advantage. Youthful and dynamic, his

"We won't call it a fresh start so much as it is

Antoinette's glamorous, three-tier birthday cake, a Picasso-

a new start. Inner-workings are being laid

inspired artistic jubilee—and proves how he never fails to

bare; how these mechanics exist and

become the talk of the show by becoming the center of

signature style is exemplified by his previous shows—Marie

evolve will change." This, is Moschino's

every spotlight. In the SS21 collection, the focus is not

creative director, Jeremy Scott's

only on an unprecedented runway show brought

perspective on 2021.

together by the marionettes and puppeteers, but also

Nowadays, fashion seems to place more emphasis on creative content and not merely on clothing

on the intricate details and impeccable craftsmanship of the miniature clothing. For the first time, Moschino demonstrates practicality and diligence in its design. So

design. Creativity had gradually

perhaps this mini fashion show is not a surreal representation,

outweighed the garment

but the perfect invitation to escape reality and set foot into

itself and this trend

the fantastical, pocket-sized realm of the marionettes.

happens to work

Moschino 2021 春夏系列。 Moschino Spring Summer 2021 collection.

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FASHION

幻彩繽紛西西里 在 2021 春 夏 滿 是 自 然 原 色 與 極 簡 主 義 時，Dolce & Gabbana 完全給了春夏一個嶄新且截然不同的玩味色 彩，Domenico Dolce 和 Stefano Gabbana 展 現 了 西 班 牙、阿拉伯與諾曼人的不同層次與不同文化。最一開 始之時，想著在這已經夠混沌的一年，到底還要多繁 複多複雜呢 ? 但就在充滿藝大利西西里色彩與文化的 拼接色塊與圖騰背景下，模特一個個揮灑著藝大利工 藝與文化的裁縫與色彩，融為一體讓人不禁掉入魔幻 色彩的國度，像是逃離現實般被視覺衝擊所吸引，那 既和諧又激發起無限風格之美感。是阿，誰說疫情之 下只能有一種面貌 ? 金色與螢光點綴，拼接色調牛仔 褲與立體花型復古頭飾在秀場上呼應相襯，色彩果然 是最好的療癒。

The Blazing Colors of Sicily While many SS21 collections collectively settle on natural colors and minimalism, Dolce & Gabbana decides to

金色與螢光點綴，拼接色調牛仔褲與立體花型復古頭飾在秀場上呼應相襯。 With a dash of gold, a stroke of neon, the patchwork jeans echo the floral brocades and allow the colorful spirit to be your best remedy.

模特一個個揮灑著義大利工藝與文化的裁縫與色彩。 The models march on stage armored with the Italian artisanal tailoring and culture.

take on a different approach. Together, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana explore with brand new color coordination to express the dynamic cultures of the Spanish, the Arabs, and the Normans. At first, the complex idea may seem overwhelming in such an unsettling year.

However, under the patchwork of Sicilian hues and layers upon layers of cultural tokens, the models march on stage armored with the Italian artisanal culture, luring us into an enchanted kingdom and simultaneously leading us away from reality with a visual surprise. A beauty that is harmonious but awe-inspiring—who said we are to be confined by the limitations of a pandemic? With a dash Prada 2021 春夏大秀以雙創意總監的方式登場，也 是在二月宣佈加入品牌團隊的 Raf Simons 第一場與 Miuccia Prada 的線上時尚大秀。 At Prada's SS 21 virtual fashion show, Raf Simons made his debut as co-creative director alongside Miuccia Prada, the anticipation of the year since the February announcement.

of gold, a stroke of neon, let the patchwork jeans echo the floral brocades and allow the colorful spirit to be your best remedy.

Dolce & Gabbana 創意總監 Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana。 Dolce & Gabbana's creative directors, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana.

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FASHION 我討厭時尚電影（fashion film）這概 念，我覺得那非常過時。 — Demna Gvasalia

Afterworld: The Age of Tomorrow 玩家登錄中 走在巴黎街頭的 Balenciaga 2021 夏季秀場致力發揚 永續時尚外，設計師 Demna Gvasalia 更是強調男女 可混穿的無性別風格，在暗夜的巴黎展開了一場帶

Balenciaga 2021 秋季系 列延續春夏的永續發 展，並加入更多的科技 太空元素。 Balenciaga continues the concept of sustainability through technical space elements.

未來與科技感的獨特時尚美學。另外，Balenciaga 2021 秋季系列就這樣跑在最前頭，隆重登場了 !

Balenciaga 2021 秋季系列。 Balenciaga Fall 2021 Ready-to-Wear Collection.

以超現實的虛擬電玩遊戲，名為《後世：明日世 界》（Afterworld: The Age of Tomorrow）打造了一個 2031 年為背景的未來國度，延續春夏的永續發展， 並加入更多的科技元素。不只是打造了一個意象式 的

超現實時空，更是直接將科幻變成現 實，有如親眼看見了未來般的注入 在我們的生活中，拿起手機或是 打開電腦就可以身入其境。

Balenciaga 2021 秋季系列以超現實的虛擬電玩遊戲，名為《後世：明 日世界》（Afterworld: The Age of Tomorrow）打造了一個 2031 年為背 景的未來國度。 The brand also launches its FW21 collection by taking us on an adventure to Afterworld: The Age of Tomorrow, a video game set in 2031. Showcasing the new collection in virtual reality.

Player Ready for Afterworld: The Age of Tomorrow "I hate the idea of fashion film," Demna Gvasalia, designer of Balenciaga, says directly, "I find it very dated."

Against the Paris backdrop, Balenciaga's SS21 collection not only emphasizes on sustainable fashion, but Gvasalia also takes it one step further by making most pieces unisex—kickstarting a futuristic and tech-centric aesthetic in the dusky City of Love. Meanwhile, the brand also launches its FW21 collection by taking us on an adventure to Afterworld: The Age of Tomorrow, a video game set in 2031. Showcasing the new collection in virtual reality, Balenciaga continues the concept of sustainability through technical elements. Not just constructing an allegorical dimension, Afterworld turns fantasy into reality—an incorporation of futuristic features into

Balenciaga 2021 秋季系列。 Balenciaga Fall 2021 Ready-to-Wear Collection.

the quotidian with the easy accessibility through phones and computers for a full-on, immersive experience.

Balenciaga 2021 秋季系列。 Balenciaga Fall 2021 Ready-to-Wear Collection.

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FASHION Maison Margiela 創意總監 John Galliano 將 探戈的神韻刻劃成一場月光舞姿，展現獨 特氛圍的戲劇張力與幻境感。 John Galliano transforms the essence of tango into a dance soirée under the moonlight. In this new era of moving images.

接開無性別的暗紅面紗

clothes. From an eccentrically surreal perspective, Maison

想像著跳舞時肢體上和服裝上的皺褶，像是可以推看他

Margiela presents the SS21 ready-to-wear collection by

人過去般。Maison Margiela 2021 春夏時裝系列以超現實

reinterpreting tango dancing and the South American

的暗黑詭譎角度，幻想著 19 世紀南美婚禮的照片與探

wedding photographs of the 19th century. Cinematic,

戈舞姿，舞吧 ! 舞吧 ! John Galliano 將探戈的神韻刻劃成

peculiar, and ravishing—John Galliano transforms the

一場月光舞姿，展現獨特氛圍的戲劇張力與幻境感。在

essence of tango into a dance soirée under the moonlight.

這個影像新時代，John Galliano 延續 7 月的秋季服裝推

In this new era of moving images, he continues his July

出了全新 S.W.A.L.K. II，像是服裝製作紀錄片又像是電影，

chronicle of the fall collection and launches the sequel,

訴說著靈感故事與魅惑視覺，並延用上一季開始使用

S.W.A.L.K. II. Call it a fashion documentary or a film, it tells

的濕透效果與 Co-Ed 白標系列不分男女的中性款式，為

the story of visceral inspirations with an alluring visual. By

2021 春夏締造出精采融合與解構的新思維。

carrying on the "wet look" of last season and the genderless

Unveiling a Genderless Crimson

Co-Ed collection, Galliano successfully creates a new hybrid

Imagine if you could sense the lives people had lived,

of merging and deconstructing for the spring and summer

through the way they dance, or the creases worn into their

collections of 2021.

Maison Margiela 全新 2021 春夏系列。 Maison Margiela Spring 2021 Ready-toWear collection.

創意總監 John Galliano 延續 7 月的秋季服裝推出了全新 S.W.A.L.K2，像是服裝製作紀錄片又像是電影，訴說著靈感故事與魅惑視覺。 John Galliano continues his July chronicle of the fall collection and launches the sequel, S.W.A.L.K. II. Call it a fashion documentary or a film, it tells the story of visceral inspirations with an alluring visual.

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FASHION

FW21 Trends: A Variation of Silhouettes

LOUIS VUITTON 寬大的肩線 輪廓和圓弧繭形在搭配上 不僅僅是搭配褲裝，還可 以搭配篷裙、貼身皮裙、 花苞裙等等。 The broad shoulder lines and the exaggerated cocoon shape can be styled not only with trousers and pants, but also with tulle, leather, tulip skirts, and more.

( 下 ) LOUIS VUITTON 在 2021 秋 冬女裝大秀像是回朔希臘羅馬 文化全盛時期一般以寬大的肩 線輪廓和圓弧繭形製造出浮誇、 強而有力的衝擊效果。 ( 下 ) LOUIS VUITTON take us back to the golden era of Ancient Greece and Rome. The broad shoulder lines and the exaggerated cocoon shape together create a grandiose, impactful clash.

輪廓變奏曲 秋冬時裝週趨勢

份量感輪廓

今

年秋冬是一場華麗的輪廓變奏曲，在各個鮮明

Prada 2021 秋冬時 裝秀圖。 Prada FW21 collection.

輪廓的大衣、外套上，完美詮釋出視覺張力，

例如 LOUIS VUITTON 在 2021 秋冬女裝大秀與義大利藝 術家飾品牌 FORNASETTI 合作，像是回朔希臘羅馬文化 全盛時期一般，既有復古時期的輪廓美感，又帶入創意 總監 Nicolas Ghesquière 擅長的未來感，穿梭在交錯的時 空，以寬大的肩線輪廓和圓弧繭形製造出浮誇、強而有力 的衝擊效果。在搭配上不僅僅是搭配褲裝，還可以搭配篷 裙、貼身皮裙、花苞裙等等。而 LOEWE 秋冬女裝則是直接將 圓弧的肩袖立體放大，圓潤的廓形像是戲劇化般，這季的服裝 絕對會帶起今年秋冬的份量感輪廓熱潮。

C

arry the Weight This year's autumn and winter season is a splendid variation

of silhouettes. The visual tension is perfectly expressed by the coats and jackets tailored with a strong contour. For its FW21 womenswear collection, LOUIS VUITTON collaborated with Italian atelier FORNASETTI to take us back to the golden era of Ancient Greece and Rome—an aesthetic beauty of the retro infused with the futuristic sense of creative director Nicolas Ghesquière.

As we shuttle through the changing time and space, the broad shoulder lines and the exaggerated cocoon shape together create a grandiose, impactful clash. It can be styled not only with trousers

Versace 2021 秋冬時裝秀場景圖。 Versace AW21 collection.

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LOEWE 秋冬女裝則是直接將 圓弧的肩袖立體放大，圓潤 的廓形像是戲劇化般。 LOEWE's FW21 womenswear collection decided to magnify the arc-shaped sleeves that dramatize their round shape.

and pants, but also with tulle, leather, tulip skirts, and more.

Meanwhile, LOEWE's FW21 womenswear collection decided to magnify the arc-shaped sleeves that dramatize their round shape— a perfect exemplification of this autumn and winter season's craze for exaggerated tailoring design.

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FASHION

紅色花呢格紋取材 Dior 典藏中的 玫瑰圖騰，令人聯想到創意總監 Maria Grazia Chiuri 鍾愛的經典童 話故事《美女與野獸》。 The red tweed pattern drew inspiration from Dior's archive of rose totems that reminded us of creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri' s favorite, "Beauty and the Beast." Reminiscing her childhood memories.

Versace 2021 秋冬時裝秀圖。 Versace FW21 collection.

Valentino A 字型輪廓 可以保留纖細的肩 線，更可以露出腿部 線條。 The Valentino A-line design not only maintains the slender shoulder line, but also emphasizes the shape of the leg.

Valentino 長型的斗篷以 硬挺的線條宛如暗夜中 的神秘龐德女郎。 With the stiff lines, the long ponchos turn the wearer into the mysterious Bond Girl.

The Sleek A-Line The A-line design is also a very common style for the autumn and winter season that not only maintains the slender shoulder line, but also emphasizes the shape of the leg. Shawls, ponchos, and A-line dresses all have different visual aesthetics. With an array of neatly tailored and cropped outfits, Valentino outlined

俐落 A 字型

Dior 在 2021 秋 冬 系 列 以 暗 黑、詭譎的童話故事創造衝 突感。 In its FW21 collection, Dior created a conflicting sense b y o f fe r i n g t h e d a r k a n d treacherous fairy tales.

a clashing of the sensual and romantic. The cropped jackets become small ponchos with the addition of impressionistic plaid patterns, a perfect mixture of female professional and sexy. With the stiff lines, the long ponchos turn the wearer into the mysterious Bond Girl and the soft gauze dresses become

A 字型輪廓也是秋冬相當常見的搭配方式，可以保留纖細的肩

an embodiment of an elegant ballerina. Meanwhile, in its FW21

線，更可以露出腿部線條。披肩、斗篷和 A 字型洋裝都有不

collection, Dior created a conflicting sense by offering the

同的視覺美感。Valentino 以俐落的剪裁塑造出一系列短身服

dark and treacherous fairy tales. The red tweed pattern drew

飾，勾勒出感性浪漫的衝突效果，短外套和外套化為小斗篷，

inspiration from Dior's archive of rose totems that reminded us

加上視覺強烈的格紋，將女性幹練與性感交織而成；長型的

of creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri's favorite, "Beauty and the

斗篷以硬挺的線條宛如暗夜中的神秘龐德女郎，柔軟的紗洋

Beast." Reminiscing her childhood memories, Chiuri magically

裝瞬間化身為飄逸女伶。Dior 在 2021 秋冬系列以暗黑、詭譎

transformed her female sensitivity and sensible consciousness

的童話故事創造衝突感，紅色花呢格紋取材 Dior 典藏中的玫

into her collection of different clothing designs.

瑰圖騰，令人聯想到創意總監 Maria Grazia Chiuri 鍾愛的經典童 話故事《美女與野獸》，Maria 以童年回憶，將她女性敏感與 感性的自覺，揮灑魔法於衣裳。

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Valentino 以俐落的剪裁塑造出一系列短身服飾，勾勒出感性浪漫的衝突效果，短外 套和外套化為小斗篷，加上視覺強烈的格紋，將女性幹練與性感交織而成。 With an array of neatly tailored and cropped outfits, Valentino outlined a clashing of the sensual and romantic. The cropped jackets become small ponchos with the addition of impressionistic plaid patterns, a perfect mixture of female professional and sexy.

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FASHION All About the Figure Wearing fabrics fitted to show their figure, the

Valentino 2021 秋冬 時裝秀圖。 Valentino FW21 collection.

models walk with confidence while the knitted Ferragamo 2021 秋冬時 裝秀圖。 Ferragamo FW21 collection.

fabrics, hollowed-out lace, and tulle sway along with their footsteps. Changing from the light, flowy garments of spring and summer to the more delicate embroidery, the fabrics are now painted with mature shades of fall. With the embellishment of stockings and boots, the calmness and elegance of autumn and winter are thus created. The closefitting fabrics hug the body like a second layer of skin that enhances the charm of the body figure and radiates with a naturally feminine romance. Each look is eye-catching and allows us to indulge in this beauty that stems from the heart.

MIU MIU 2021 秋冬 時裝秀圖。 MIU MIU FW21 collection.

MIU MIU 2021 秋冬 時裝秀圖。 MIU MIU FW21 collection.

Versace 2021 秋冬時裝秀圖。 Versace FW21 collection.

肌膚線條感

Fendi 從春夏輕盈、飄逸的面料轉變為針織與 更多精緻刺繡，搭配上較成穩的秋冬配色。 Fendi changing from the light, flowy garments of spring and summer to the more delicate embroidery, the fabrics are now painted with mature shades of fall.

緊 貼 著 身 形， 模 特 們 緩 緩 邁 出 自 信 步 伐， 針 織 布料、鏤空蕾絲和薄紗跟著 身形在腳步中搖曳著，從春夏輕 盈、飄逸的面料轉變為針織與更多精緻刺繡，搭 配上較成穩的秋冬配色、在絲襪和靴款的點綴下，創 造出秋冬的從容和優雅，也像是第二層皮膚般兼具散 發質感魅力的身材線條與女性自然浪漫，每套都讓人目 不轉睛，也再次讓人沈浸在所謂美到心坎裡的氛圍。

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Fendi 在絲襪的點綴下，創造出秋冬 的從容和優雅，也像是第二層皮膚般 兼具散發質感魅力的身材線條與女性 自然浪漫。 With the embellishment of stockings, the calmness and elegance of autumn and winter are thus created. The closefitting fabrics hug the body like a second layer of skin that enhances the charm of the body figure and radiates with a naturally feminine romance.

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FASHION

Fendi 2021 秋冬時裝秀圖。 Fendi FW21 collection.

Chloe 2021 秋冬 時裝秀圖細節。 The details of Chloe FW21 collection.

Girl in the Fur Coat Like returning to the glory of the Roaring Twenties with a pipe in hand, a fur coat on, and the adornment of luxurious accessories, the drunken night of gold gradually sinks into

Prada 2021 秋冬時裝秀圖。 Prada FW21 collection.

the bedazzling scenes. This pursuit of the ultimate classic also achieves the glorious peak of Haute Couture fashion week.

Prada 2021 秋冬時裝秀圖。 Prada FW21 collection.

With the increased awareness of environmental protection, more and more fashion brands have decided to join the environmental friendly movement by using more humane and sustainable methods. This autumn and winter season, plush is once again back in style, along with elements of fringe, an all-time favorite that lasted several seasons. Coats, boots, and bags all incorporated with thick and warm wool, turning this upcoming season into a world of fluff and flamboyance.

MIU MIU 2021 秋冬 時裝秀圖。 MIU MIU FW21 collection.

今年秋冬，毛絨的風潮像是極速回歸般，像是靴款、包款也同樣注入厚實 又溫暖的毛料，看來今年秋冬是個既鬆軟又浮誇的毛絨世界。 This autumn and winter season, plush is once again back in style. Boots, and bags all incorporated with thick and warm wool, turning this upcoming season into a world of fluff and flamboyance.

毛絨女孩 宛如回到經典輝煌的 20 年代，一根煙管、一件毛絨皮 草，華奢的配飾，在紙醉金迷的夜晚緩緩淹沒在斑斕的 場景中，追求著極致的經典同樣也成就了高級時裝的輝 煌高峰。現今環保意識提高，也越來越多時尚品牌加入 了友善環境的行列，以更人道及永續的方式代替。今年 秋冬，毛絨的風潮像是極速回歸般，並加入了這幾季當 道的流蘇元素，不僅僅是大衣，像是靴款、包款也同樣 注入厚實又溫暖的毛料，看來今年秋冬是個既鬆軟又浮 誇的毛絨世界。

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FASHION

這季帶入了更多的實用性與創意，例如 Fendi 經典代 表性包款 Baguette 以雙肩背的姿態亮相。 With a new focus on practicality and creativity, Fendi's iconic Baguette is reimagined with double straps that can be worn as a backpack

再進化 變奏曲套用在秋冬包款上可以說是在合適不過了。在 經典中注入了一點小變化，重新詮釋出經典包款的非 凡韻味，煥然一新的效果讓人眼前為之一亮。這季帶 入了更多的實用性與創意，例如 Fendi 經典代表性包 款 Baguette 以雙肩背的姿態亮相，新的角度與比例詮 釋經典包款 Peekaboo，全新 Fendi First 包款首秀，將 首字母 F 植入手拿包的框架中，以羊絨、皮革及珍稀 材質製作。另外 LOUIS VUITTON 則是注入了實用性， 更多的拉鍊口袋與今年必備的半月包型 (HOBO) 結合 ; 和與義大利藝術家飾品牌 FORNASETTI 合作的圖畫放 入經典包款當中。Valentino 放大版的 Rockstud 鉚釘都 為下半年加入了靈活、活潑的生命力。

全新 Fendi First 包款首秀，將首字母 F 植入手拿包的框架中，以羊絨、皮 革及珍稀材質製作。 The Italian brand also introduced the new Fendi First, that features an F-shaped clasp closure and is made with special materials like teddy bear shearling and snakeskin.

LOUIS VUITTON 則是注入了實用性，更多的拉鍊口袋與今年必 備的半月包型 (HOBO) 結合。 LOUIS VUITTON direct their focus to practicality with more zipper pockets and this year's must-have—the half-moon HOBO bag.

Next Step, Evolution Comparing variations in music to autumn and winter bags is perhaps the most suitable metaphor. Just by tweaking it a little, the classic bag types are reinterpreted, the brand new features refreshing people's minds. With a new focus on practicality and creativity, Fendi's iconic Baguette is reimagined with double straps that can be worn as a backpack and the classic Peekaboo is redesigned with a new angle and proportion. On top of that, the Italian brand also introduced "the new pouch in town," Fendi First, that features an F-shaped clasp closure and is made with special materials like teddy bear shearling and snakeskin. On the other hand, not only did LOUIS VUITTON direct their focus to practicality with more zipper pockets and this year's must-have—the half-moon HOBO bag—the brand also transferred the collaborated artwork with Italian atelier Valentino 放大版的 Rockstud 鉚釘都為 下半年加入了靈活、活潑的生命力。 Valentino's exaggerated rockstuds is a new statement, injecting the second half of 2021 with flexibility and vitality.

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LOUIS VUITTON 和與義大利藝術家飾品牌 FORNASETTI 合作的圖畫放入經典包款當中。 LOUIS VUITTON also transferred the collaborated artwork with Italian atelier FORNASETTI on to classic bags to establish something new.

FORNASETTI on to classic bags to establish something new.

Even Valentino's exaggerated rockstuds is a new statement, injecting the second half of 2021 with flexibility and vitality.

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